Historic Scotland Summer 2015

The secrets behind the Mons Meg MOT

31

EXCITING EVENTS

INSIDE

THE MAGAZINE FOR HISTORIC SCOTLAND MEMBERS

SUMMER 2015

MEET THE

JUNIOR GUIDES Follow the trail of Outlander Discover two moated castles

6

STUNNING GARDENS TO EXPLORE

ACTION OF OY A SUMMER J N E

From jolly jousting to dining in A-listed style

Maryof Guise

Scotland’s shrewdest royal 500 years on

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Welcome to

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With the weather warming up nicely, we’re delighted to unveil a Historic Scotland calendar packed with summer excitement. Our Spectacular Jousting and Celebration of the Centuries events are back for another year, and we hope many of you will join us for The Rock of Ages, our new, fun-filled journey through time at Dumbarton Castle on 13 and 14 June.

In this, the Year of Food and Drink, we are taking the chance to celebrate Scotland’s abundance of quality produce. A variety of activities at our properties are complemented by the expansion of the culinary range in our gift shops – now including bottled stock of the Edinburgh Castle beer, produced

by Caledonian brewery and available to buy at the Castle. Do pop in to indulge in something tasty.

On page 7, we check out a few of the local brands being stocked at Stirling Castle. Prior to joining Historic Scotland, I worked for some iconic businesses in the food and tourism industry, so it is a joy for me to combine these passions once more.

Elsewhere, we visit three restaurants within A-listed buildings to find out how they bring a historical flavour to the dining experience. Meet Tom Kitchin of The Kitchin, Petra Wetzel of West Brewery and Mark Saddler of Greywalls on page 34 – and find out which sites to explore after lunch.

INTRODUCE

HISTORIC SCOTLAND

Contributors JACKIE MCGLONE Dine with the A-list (p34) A highly regarded freelance journalist, Jackie specialises in the arts, culture and design.

SEE PAGE 49

STEPHEN DUNCAN Director of Commercial and Tourism

MALCOLM COCHRANE

5 big things to see and do this issue 1

Look out for lances at Linlithgow Palace P51

2

Meet the junior guides at Craigmillar Castle P44

3

Glimpse the past at historic sites P40

4

Learn about Mary Queen of Scots’ mother P22

5

Compare Caerlaverock and Rothesay castles P13

Step back in time at Craigmillar Castle

KATHLEEN NUTT The great outdoors (p28) A freelance journalist based in Glasgow, Kathleen writes primarily for The Herald, The National and The Times.

JOHN HARRISON Marie de Guise (p22) John is a historian and writer who has been exploring Scottish history for more than 30 years.

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 1

HISTORIC SCOTLAND

The secrets behind the Mons Meg MOT

31

EXCITING EVENTS

INSIDE

SUMMER 2015

THE MAGAZINE FOR HISTORIC SCOTLAND MEMBERS

LOOK INSIDE HISTORIC SCOTLAND SUMMER 2015

SUMMER 2015

MEET THE

JUNIOR GUIDES Follow the trail of Outlander Discover two moated castles

6 STUNNING

GARDENS TO EXPLORE

WWW.HISTORIC%SCOTLAND.GOV.UK/MEMBER

ACTION E NJ

OF OY A SUMMER

Maryof Guise

Scotland’s shrewdest royal 500 years on

From jolly jousting to dining in A-listed style 00_HS_SUM15_COVER.indd 1

22/05/2015 12:29

Headquarters Historic Scotland Longmore House, Salisbury Place Edinburgh EH9 1SH www.historic-scotland.gov.uk Membership enquiries 0131 668 8999 hs.members@scotland.gsi.gov.uk Editorial enquiries hs.magazine@scotland.gsi.gov.uk Membership and CRM Manager Claire Bowie Assistant Membership Manager Morag Paterson Membership Co-ordinator Pauline Brews Editor Kathleen Morgan kathleen.morgan@thinkpublishing.co.uk Deputy Editor Fiona McKinlay fiona.mckinlay@thinkpublishing.co.uk Design Matthew Ball Sub-editors Sam Bartlett, Sian Campbell, Kirsty Fortune Contributors Alec Mackenzie, Anne Devlin Advertising Sales Simon Bryson simon.bryson@thinkpublishing.co.uk 020 3771 7200 Publisher John Innes john.innes@thinkpublishing.co.uk Think Suite 2.3, Red Tree Business Suites, 33 Dalmarnock Road, Glasgow G40 4LA 0141 375 0504 Photography All images provided by Historic Scotland unless otherwise stated. For access to images of Scotland and our properties, call 0131 668 8647/8785, email hs.images@scotland.gsi.gov.uk, or visit www.historicscotlandimages.gov.uk Historic Scotland is an Agency within the Scottish Government and is directly responsible to Scottish Ministers for safeguarding the nation’s historic environment and promoting its understanding and enjoyment.

The views expressed in the magazine do not necessarily reflect those of Historic Scotland. All information is correct at the time of going to press. © Historic Scotland. All rights reserved.

Reproduction in part or in whole is prohibited without prior agreement of the Membership and CRM Manager and Historic Scotland.

Cover: Jousting at Linlighgow Palace.

22 | Visit one of Marie de Guise’s many royal residences 2 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

40 | We search the archives to shine a light on the past

COLIN MEARNS; ALAN DONALDSON; EUAN ROBERTSON

Historic Scotland is published four times a year, and is printed on paper made from pulp sourced from sustainable materials.

50

EVENTS

Join us for a summer of action at Celebration of the Centuries, Spectacular Jousting, Rock of Ages and more

28 | Out and about at Dirleton

38 | Mark Saddler cooks up a treat at Greywalls Hotel 13 | Sizing up Rothesay REGULARS

PLACES TO VISIT

4 THE SCRIPT News and updates from Historic Scotland sites around the country 49 MEMBERSHIP 50 EVENTS 56 GUESS THE YEAR

THIS SUMMER

FEATURES

Edzell Castle P32

44 | Meet Melissa and the other junior guides at Craigmillar Castle

Dirleton Castle P29 Craigmillar Castle P44 Dundrennan Abbey P18

22 MARY OF GUISE The tale of a canny royal – and mother to Mary Queen of Scots – 500 years after her birth 28 GARDEN PARTY Kathleen Nutt and her family discover the best gardens at Historic Scotland properties 34 LISTED RESTAURANTS Meet the personalities behind The Kitchin,

West Brewery and Greywalls – a trio of restaurants in A-listed buildings 40 TIME TRAVELLING A visual journey in to the past at some of the nation’s most interesting sites 44 THE NEW RECRUITS Why being a Historic Scotland junior guide is about far more than dressing up

FIND US ON

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 3

SCRIPT THE

PEOPLE, PLACES, RESEARCH, COMPETITIONS AND MORE …

INCLUDING

Celebrate as the iconic Forth Bridge turns 125 Discover Scotland’s rare moated castles Will the lynx make a comeback in Scotland?

Follow the trail of the costume drama Outlander

BACK TO BLACK FOR MONS MEG

CONSERVATION Medieval cannon returns to Edinburgh Castle after extensive conservation work VISITORS to Edinburgh Castle might have noticed a little something missing earlier this year. Mons Meg, a six-tonne medieval cannon, was absent from the castle for the first time in 30 years to allow for conservation work.

Richard Welander, the head of collections at Historic Scotland, oversaw the conservation work between January and March. “Mons Meg was in a secret location 4 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

just off Easter Road,” he said.

“We decided to strip all the paint off the gun. As we overpaint it each year, you see less and less definition.

“A specialist metals conservator came in and we bead-blasted it. This sounds a bit vicious, but actually the blast media is made up of Army surplus plastic buttons ground up into a powder and sprayed at the paint. It takes off the paint

gently and leaves us with the original surface.”

The cannon has since been carefully repainted. “The paint system we’ve used is a much harder system than we’ve used previously,” said Richard. “It’s a resin-based paint that is more resistant to bashes and buffeting.”

The team took a 3D scan of the cannon, giving the conservators valuable data that could lead to important

discoveries and help monitor future wear and tear.

Richard said: “We wanted to see if we could distinguish any thinning within the length of the barrel, so we did highlevel scans. Next time round, we can check to see whether there has been deterioration.

We wouldn’t have been able to do this 30 years ago, as the technology didn’t exist.”

The high-quality wrought iron used to craft Mons Meg

Jane Ryder (fifth right), Fiona Hyslop MSP (centre) and the HES board

HES BOARD APPOINTED

UPDATE Exciting chapter for the nation’s historic environment

Careful with the old lady: Mons Meg is returned to Edinburgh Castle

SCOTLAND’S chief heritage bodies are coming together this October to manage and maintain the nation’s historic environment.

Historic Scotland and the Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland will form Historic Environment Scotland (HES).

The public body’s role is to ensure Scotland’s historic environment is understood, cared for and valued, while

contributing to the wellbeing of the nation.

Jane Ryder OBE, the chair of HES, said: “It is a huge privilege to be the first chair of Historic Environment Scotland. The opportunities identified, the expectations placed on HES, and the skill and enthusiasm of the staff who will form that body, all add up to an exciting time for the historic environment.”

With recruitment for a

chief executive underway, Jane and the recently appointed HES board will meet staff and stakeholders to discuss ambitious plans for the organisation.

The board will finalise a three-year plan aligned to Our Place in Time, Scotland’s first strategy for the historic environment.

For more information, subscribe to our eNewsletter at www. historic-scotland.gov.uk/ rcahmshsnewsletter

COLLECTIONS

TAPESTRY UNVEILED

Seventh unicorn piece completes Stirling set

in 1449 is one reason the gun has endured.

“I’m awe-inspired by the physicality and skill of the blacksmiths who made it – extraordinary, massive weights of soft metal being wheeled around and bashed into place,” said Richard. “It must have been extremely dangerous – probably one of the reasons they didn’t make too many of them.”

A glimpse of the final unicorn tapestry

STIRLING Castle is abuzz with the impending arrival of the replica of the final piece of The Hunt of the Unicorn tapestries, on show from 24 June. The other six already hang in the Queen’s Inner Hall.

The final tapestry, The Mystic Hunt of the Unicorn, depicts the unicorn being captured or tamed by a maiden representing the Virgin Mary. The original exists only in two small fragments, with the rest of the design developed from clues within these.

The unveiling concludes a 14-year collaborative project – the biggest

of its kind in the UK over the past 100 years – to recreate the tapestries for the Renaissance palace of James V at the castle.

The original series dates from between 1495 and 1505 and are held by The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City.

Visitors can learn more about the background and evolution of the replicas in the Weaving the Unicorn exhibition, running in the Tapestry Studio at Stirling Castle over the summer.

Visit www.stirlingcastle.gov.uk for the latest on the unveiling WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 5

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TEN YEARS ON THE TRAIL

Walks at the Ring of Brodgar run throughout the year

ANNIVERSARY

Celebrating a decade of the Orkney ranger service A SURPRISE party was held in Orkney to mark 10 years of the Historic Scotland ranger service.

The celebration was thrown for Orkney rangers Sandra Miller and Elaine Clarke, who have been with the service since its inception. Both are former nurses who left their native Orkney to train, later returning to work as stewards for Historic Scotland before becoming its first rangers.

More than 48,000 people have heard from them on walks, talks and at other events. They also make around 90 school visits a year.

Bob Tevendale, the natural history adviser for Historic Scotland, launched the ranger service in 2005. He said: “The Orkney World Heritage Site is a magical place – visitors appreciate it is a special site.

The rangers explain this complex site, and how it relates to the wider cultural

STEWARD’S SECRET Historic Scotland staff tell us quirky tales about their sites

6 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

Rangers Elaine Clarke (left) and Sandra Miller see Orkney in a different light

landscape, in a lyrical way that could never be achieved by panels or guide books.”

He added: “The most important skill for a ranger is to communicate well. The ability of Sandra and Elaine to enthral visitors has been appreciated by many over the past 10 years.”

Islander Moya McDonald, who helped organise the anniversary event, said: “It’s Orkney saying a big thank you to two people they think a lot of. They’ve gained such a reputation for the effort they put into the job – their knowledge, courteousness, integrity

MARY SCOTT: HERMITAGE CASTLE “In the early 1970s, the author George MacDonald Fraser arrived at the castle with his publisher and the photographer Alexandra Lawrence to take promotional photographs for his latest

publication, The Steel Bonnets.

“They were obliged to wait a considerable length of time before the last visitors cleared the site, then spent at least a couple of hours taking innumerable shots of the castle from

every conceivable angle. It was just as they were finally packing up to leave that they heard a plaintive voice from within: ‘Is it all right to come out now? I would really like to go home.’ It was the custodian sticking to his post.”

and wonderful Orkney sense of humour.”

Bob described setting up the Orkney rangers’ office ready for the arrival of the pair.

“Their office – more of a large cupboard with windows – is adjacent to the historic village of Skara Brae and separated from the Atlantic Ocean by the sea wall protecting the fragile site.

“The wall is the only thing between the office and 3,000 miles of ocean. To say the weather can get a bit wild is an understatement. A couple of times after overnight gales I found dead fish on the footpath, blown there out of the sea. The waves can wash over their office.”

Hide and seek at Hermitage Castle

ISLAND HOPPING

UP YOUR STREET HERITAGE

READER OFFER

AN INNOVATIVE project using artists, musicians and actors to connect communities with the past is heralding a new era for the nation’s historic environment.

Scotland’s Urban Past, a five-year initiative supported by the Heritage Lottery Fund, will connect communities to their rich architectural, social and personal histories. Launching this month, it will involve events, exhibitions, crowdsourcing activities and hands-on training.

The project website will help participants research their local heritage, and share stories and photographs.

To get involved visit www. scotlandsurbanpast.org.uk

WITH summer here, why not use your membership to explore our island locations?

Intriguing sites such as Rothesay Castle, Iona Abbey and The Blackhouse, Arnol, are only a ferry ride away.

Historic Scotland has teamed up with Caledonian MacBrayne, the multiple award-winning ferry operator, to offer an exclusive 50% discount on its Kids Club membership.

Club members, aged four to 11, receive a goody bag, free ferry travel and onboard meal on their birthday, access to the interactive Kids Club website and Facebook page, plus a range of great partner deals including Kids Go Free offers.

Visit calmackidsclub.co.uk and enter the code HS2015 to benefit from this offer. Book your trip at www.calmac.co.uk

The statue of Mary is unveiled at Linlithgow Palace

STATUE

SOMETHING ABOUT MARY

A BRONZE statue of one of Scotland’s most controversial historical figures has been unveiled at Linlithgow Palace.

The 7ft image of Mary Queen of Scots, sculpted by David Annand, is one of 22 statues of female figures in Scotland. A time capsule is sealed in the plinth, with

items selected by children from Low Port and Linlithgow primary schools.

The statue was unveiled

by Margaret Lumsdaine, the president of the Marie Stuart Society; Linlithgow Gala queen Dominique Delahunty; and her first lady, Alice Henderson.

SWEET TREATS AT STIRLING SHOP RETAIL Castle stocks the best of the nation’s fare

SCOTLAND’S Year of Food and Drink has arrived at Stirling Castle in style.

The Clan and Craft Gift Shop on the castle’s esplanade offers an extended range of home and kitchenware, as well as an

increased selection of foods sourced from local producers.

Three lines on the shelves are: Poporopo, gourmet popcorn; The Wee Kitchen Company’s homemade jams; and Ochil Fudge Pantry’s award-winning tablet and fudge.

Daman Bush of Poporopo became ‘the popcorn guy’ in 2014, after growing frustrated with the lack of diversity in cinema food. Flavours include Isle of Skye sea salted caramel, and chilli and lime.

Jennifer McEwan made a red pepper and chilli jam for friends

and family, which was so popular it evolved into a business.

The Ochil Fudge Pantry was started by Susan Fleming and Angie Craven after hitting on a formula for Irn-Bruflavoured fudge.

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 7

QM2745_05/15

To find out why Scotch Beef is better, go to scotchkitchen.com

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OPEN DAYS

STEP INTO THE PAST

Dunblane Cathedral

Host to Andy Murray and Kim Sears’ recent nuptials, Dunblane Cathedral is a medieval marvel.

Volunteers from the Society of Friends of Dunblane Cathedral will lead informative tours around the mainly Gothic structure over the summer.

The society started in 1930 and has played a major role ever since.

Every Sunday in July and August, 2-4pm

Investigate a trio of hidden gems

OPEN days and special tours at Historic Scotland properties this summer offer the chance to discover places that are normally inaccessible. Benefit from the insider knowledge of expert guides, with no booking required.

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Kinneil House

Biggar Gasworks Museum

Located to the west of Bo’ness, Kinneil House is a historic stately home, residence to the Dukes of Hamilton in the 1660s. Although the grounds are open all year, the doors of Kinneil House usually remain closed. Are you ready to step inside to see the Renaissance wall paintings within?

Saturdays 27 June, 29 August, 19 September and 31 October, 12-3pm

TIME TO SHINE

HISTORY Esplanade panels unveiled for Tattoo IT IS difficult to upstage an event as colourful as the annual Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo. This year, though, there are efforts to highlight monuments hidden by the seating stands erected for the event during August.

Panels telling the story of these historic monuments will be seen on the Esplanade at Edinburgh Castle. The 11 panels focus on familiar sights such as the grave of Ensign Ewart, who captured an eagle standard at Waterloo; the Afghan Needle, a memorial to the 72nd Highlanders who died in the second Anglo-Afghan

War; and the Witches’ Well, commemorating those executed for witchcraft.

Interpretation officer Steve Farrar explained: “Until October, our visitors can discover stories of remarkable courage, military conquest and cruel punishment bound up in these monuments – as well as nursery rhymes, mutiny and a pet elephant.”

Historic Scotland is once again making a range of hospitality packages available for the Tattoo.

Join a table in the Jacobite Room to enjoy excellent food and fine wine. After dinner take a magical

From 1839, Biggar Gasworks was a functioning plant for the production of flammable gas until its closure in 1973. On special ‘steam days’ this summer, the boiler will be switched on so visitors can see it in action.

Monday 20 July, Saturday 15 August, Mondays 21 and 28 September, and Sunday 18 October, 12-4.30pm

See beyond the Edinburgh Military Tattoo

walk through the Tattoo backstage area and over the drawbridge to one of the best seats in the house.

Find out more about our Tattoo hospitality packages at www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk/ military-tattoo or contact the Tattoo hospitality team on 0131 225 4783

PARK FOR LESS AT THE CASTLE VISITORS to Edinburgh Castle can take advantage of a reduced rate outwith the peak month of August, at the NCP Castle Terrace car park.

They can pay just £8 for up to 12 hours – less than half the usual price for this length of stay.

Visitors must validate their parking token within the castle, at the audio guide return desk, to benefit from this deal.

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 9

island holidays Established 1987

ST HELENA – A REMOTE OUTPOST • A remote British Overseas Territory with a fascinating history and much more • Visit now before the airport opens (scheduled for April 2016) • OR be on one of the first flights (schedules due in September 2015) • Guided groups October 2015, January 2016 & March 2016 or independent travel • See the endemic plants and Wirebird • Dolphins and seabirds • Napoleonic history • Life on a remote island • Three nights in Cape Town and Western Cape with full guided programme

We have just two cabins left on our October trip which coincides with the 200th anniversary of the arrival of Napoleon on the island and various special events.

Tel. 01764 670107 E: libby@islandholidays.co.uk Website: www.islandholidays.co.uk Island Holidays, PO Box 26317, Comrie, Perthshire, PH6 2JU

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PUBLICATIONS

HOT OFF THE PRESS

HERITAGE Events commemorate iconic landmark’s birthday

THE latest edition of Focus is available now, and is packed with information and news on our conservation work. Articles delve into ventures including the Engine Shed, the Commemoration Garden at Edinburgh Castle and how we make our collections available online.

This year’s Focus On section showcases how we have used the latest research to inform our approach to conserving Scotland’s built heritage.

The updated Technical Resources catalogue gives details of publications available online and in print on an incredible range of building conservation topics.

ON 4 March 1890, HRH Edward Prince of Wales hammered in a ceremonial ‘gold rivet’ and formally opened the distinctive red rail bridge that connects North and South Queensferry across the Firth of Forth, creating an important link between Edinburgh and north-east Scotland.

Following the Tay Bridge disaster in 1879, a much more rigid cantilever design had been successfully tendered by Benjamin Baker and John Fowler and, in the eight years from 1882 to 1890, an engineering ‘Wonder of the World’ assumed its distinctive shape. Since then, the Forth Bridge has operated continuously, even during the recent extraordinary restoration work by Network Rail.

Magazine digs deeper on conservation TION OF THE BUILT THE CONSERVA INFORMINGcotland.gov.uk

2015

ENVIRONMENT

www.historic-s

APPLYING RESEARCH

WHERE ARE

CONSERVATION. for a new inspiration Finding old Edinburgh’s commemoration: Memorial Garden National War

FORTH BRIDGE TURNS 125

THEY NOW?.

with Historic their Catching up alumni in Scotland’s intern the globe around latest roles

.

FOCUS ON cting Robert into Virtually reconstru tomb and delving book the Bruce’s ornate prayer Elizabeth I’s

Focus can be read online at www.historic-scotland.gov. uk/focus Request a print copy of the magazine at hs.cgoutreach@ scotland.gsi.gov.uk

Dr Miles Oglethorpe, the head of industrial heritage, Historic Scotland, was among the attendees at a 125th birthday party for the Forth Bridge in March.

He joined Keith Brown, the cabinet secretary for infrastructure, investment and cities, and James Gillespie’s Primary School pupils. Further celebrations throughout the year include the issue by

Clydesdale Bank of polymer £5 notes featuring the bridge.

It is hoped that in July, UNESCO will inscribe the bridge as Scotland’s sixth world heritage site, which Dr Oglethorpe believes is “long overdue”.

The newly listed church

PROTECTED PROPERTY

NEW KID ON THE BLOCK

ANNE MCNAIR FOR PAISLEY.ORG.UK, BRIAN MCGUIRE FOR PAISLEY.ORG.UK

Introducing one of the latest listed buildings

Holy Trinity and St Barnabas Church

THE Holy Trinity and St Barnabas Church in Paisley was listed in January at category C in view of its local importance.

Elizabeth McCrone, the head of listing and designed landscapes, explained: “The church is of special interest because it is an early surviving example of an Episcopal church in Scotland.”

The building, which opened

on 19 May 1833, was designed by the Paisley architect James Drummond. As liturgical practice changed, a chancel was added in 1884 by the Glasgow architect David Thomson.

Historic Scotland is responsible for compiling and maintaining statutory lists of buildings of special architectural or historic

interest. Listing recognises a structure’s special interest so that this can be taken into account when changes are proposed. There are around 47,500 listed buildings in Scotland.

Learn more about listed buildings at www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/ listedbuildings WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 11

Historic Scotland readers can receive a £50 voucher redeemable at over 120 high street stores including Waterstones, John Lewis & House of Fraser*

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THE SCRIPT SUGAR SCULPTURE

RECIPE

SWEET INSPIRATION

To celebrate the Year of Food and Drink, we investigate a medieval trend for edible tableware

ELABORATE sugar sculptures were adored by the Stewart monarchs, as only the richest could afford the key ingredients in such quantity. Tragacanth gum, substituted with gelatine in the recipe (right), and sugar were expensive imports.

A sugar sculpture in the

form of a vast platter of fish and seafood was served in the great hall at Stirling Castle in 1594 for the christening banquet of Prince Henry. No Scottish recipe survives, but an English one was published

by Thomas Dawson in 1597, in The Good Huswifes Jewell.

½ tsp (2.5ml) gelatine 1 tsp (5ml) lemon juice 2 tsp (10ml) rosewater ½ tsp egg white, lightly beaten 12-16oz (350-450g) icing sugar To make a paste of Suger, whereof a man may make al manner of fruites, and other fine thinges with their forme, as Plates, Dishes, Cuppes, and such like thinges wherewith you may furnish a Table.

Take Gumm… and 2 steep it in Rosewater til it be mollified, and for foure ounces of suger take of it the bigness of a beane, the juyce of 1

Lemons, a walnut shel ful, and a little of the white of an eg.

But you must first 3 take the gumme, and beat it so much with a pestell in a brasen morter, till it become like water, then put to it the juyce with the white of an egge, incorporating al these wel together, this don take foure ounces of fine white suger wel beaten to powder, and cast it into ye morter by a litle and little, until they be turned into ye form of paste, then take it out of the said morter, and bray it upon the powder of suger, as it were meale or flower, untill it be like soft paste,

to the end you may turn it, and fashion it which way you wil.

When you have 4 brought your paste to this fourme spread it abroad upon great or smal leaves as you shall thinke it good, and so shal you form or make what things you wil, as is aforesaid, with such fine knackes as may serve a Table taking heede there stand no hotte thing nigh it.

At the ende of the 5 Banket they may eat all, and breake the Platters, Dishes, Glasses, Cuppes, and all other things, for this paste is very delicate and saverous.

TAKE TWO Moulding lead at Summer School 2014

MOATED CASTLES CAERLAVEROCK

This duo are the only castles in Scotland with complete moats – but what else do they have in common?

VS

ROTHESAY

CONSERVATION

HONE YOUR SKILLS

Summer School is back for its fifth year A thorough introduction to building conservation, traditional materials and skills, the Historic Scotland Summer School takes place from 22-26 June at Forth Valley College in Stirling. It’s a great opportunity to hear from experts and get hands-on, for professionals and homeowners alike. A schedule is available online with details of each day’s key themes, speakers, workshops and activities. Members can purchase discounted tickets by logging in at www.historicscotland.gov.uk/member For more information, visit www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/ summerschool

The castle is unique in its triangular shape.

Reasons for this are unknown.

Geometry class

Rothesay’s circular form is likely inspired by an earlier earth and timber castle on the site.

Building on this strategically important castle most likely begins in the 1270s.

Medieval moats

The stone curtain wall, based on a wooden structure, is built by around 1200.

In July 1300, King Edward I and his soldiers march upon the castle. Sixty men hold off the English for some time before surrender.

The gatehouse is repaired in 1593 following damage inflicted by forces of the Earl of Sussex.

Under siege

16th-century gatehouses

In 1640 the Maxwells support Charles I against the Covenanters. The castle is badly damaged by a Covenanting force.

War wounds

Ownership of the castle remains with the Maxwell family for much of its existence.

It comes into state care in 1946.

Keeping it in the family

In 1230, Haakon IV of Norway’s men besiege and take the castle. They are soon forced to retreat.

James IV and James V carry out work on the Gatehouse, which becomes a luxurious structure with a Great Hall and oratory.

After Cromwell’s invasion, troops garrison the castle through the 1650s, damaging it as they leave.

The castle is associated with the Stewarts, its original builders, for much of its life. In 1961 it is placed in state care.

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 13

THE SCRIPT

GIVE US YOUR BEST SHOTS

THIS YEAR’S CATEGORIES

Discover a different angle at Historic Scotland locations

1. HAVING FUN Capture a moment of magic at one of our events, or out and about with family and friends

PHOTOGRAPHY

Send us your finest images of Historic Scotland sites and you could win an iPad mini FOLLOWING an impressive response last year, we are again asking you to submit your most striking images to the annual Historic Scotland photography competition.

This time, though, we’re introducing new categories.

We are inviting you to show the images you have shared on social media, put the natural world centre stage and give a different view of our locations. We want to see photographs charged with the fun typical of many Historic Scotland sites and events. As ever, we expect to see classic shots of our properties, while junior photographers are invited to outclass their elders.

Entrants are asked to submit up to three images taken in or around our properties. The overall winner will net an Apple iPad mini, while category winners are offered a year’s Historic Scotland membership renewal. The judging panel’s favourite submissions could also feature in the Historic Scotland calendar or online.

Entrants may submit three photographs, indicating in which category they would like them to be considered.

Judges may move images 14 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

to an alternate category where appropriate.

You are invited to share your entries on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram or Flickr, using the hashtag #hsphoto2015. Tagging a photo on social media does not alone constitute a submission. Please also follow the instructions below.

HOW TO ENTER Submit entries by email to hs.photos@thinkpublishing. co.uk or send digital images on CD to Historic Scotland Photography Competition, Think Scotland, Suite 2.3, Red Tree Business Suites, 33 Dalmarnock Road, Glasgow G40 4LA. The closing date is 16 October 2015.

Please include your name, address, telephone number, membership number and email address. For each image, indicate the Historic Scotland location it was taken at or near, along with your chosen category. Files should be no larger than 6MB and saved with a relevant name such as Brodgar_Junior_ YourName.jpg.

Winners will be announced in the spring 2016 issue of Historic Scotland.

2. JUNIOR Entries from under 16s. Minimum age for entry is eight years old.

Please be sure to include your age

3. NATURE Animals, birds, insects, plants and more around our properties

4. PROPERTIES Shots of, or showing features of, any property under Historic Scotland’s care

2. MALCOLM BRAUN; 3. BRIAN MOYES; 4. GRANT GLENDINNING; 5. GEOFF WILLIAMS;

5. A DIFFERENT VIEW Show us our properties from a perspective we might not have seen before or in a way that captures something unique

6. SOCIAL MEDIA STARS Celebrating the finest images shared on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Flickr with our hashtag #hsphoto2015

RULES 1. An entrant can submit a maximum of three photographs. 2. Entries must be taken in or near Historic Scotland locations. 3. All images must be submitted as digital files. 4. Digital images should be high resolution and submitted by email or on CD. Each image should not exceed 6MB in size. 5. All entries are sent at the photographer’s risk and Historic Scotland cannot accept liability for damage or loss. Entries will not be returned to entrants. All photos must be legally obtained, with permission if appropriate. 6. Entrants must be the sole author and owner of copyright for all images entered. 7. Copyright in all images submitted for this competition remains with the respective entrants. Where an image is used in the magazine or Historic Scotland calendar, the photographer will be credited.

However, in consideration of entering the competition, each entrant grants Historic Scotland a licence to feature competition images in the publication, online or in promotional material connected to Historic Scotland. 8. The competition is not open to employees of Historic Scotland or Think.

9. Winners will be notified by 10 April 2016.

10. Historic Scotland reserves the right to cancel this competition or alter any of the rules, if necessary. 11. If the winner is unable to be contacted after reasonable attempts, Historic Scotland reserves the right to either offer the prize to a runner-up or to re-offer the prize in any future competition. 12. These rules are governed by the laws of Scotland. 13. The decision of the judges is final. 14. The first prize includes an iPad mini. The prize is subject to availability. If, for any reason, it becomes unavailable, we reserve the right to supply a suitable alternative prize of similar value.

15. Entrants must be a Historic Scotland member or, in the Junior category, their parent/ guardian must be a Historic Scotland member.

16. Photos submitted for the competition may be featured in future Historic Scotland calendars. 17. The judging panel will be made up of the Historic Scotland membership and photographic teams, and the editor and publisher of Historic Scotland magazine.

WIN AN IPAD MINI Each category winner will receive a year’s renewal membership to Historic Scotland. The overall winner will also receive an iPad mini.

Some of the photographs taken by the competition winners and runners-up could be featured in a future Historic Scotland calendar. The winners will be announced in spring 2016.

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 15

FORTHCOMING SALES An invitation to consign

Our specialists will be travelling in your area the week commencing 18th May offering free valuations with a view to selling in our forthcoming auctions.

ENQUIRIES 0141 223 8866 glasgow@bonhams.com 176 St. Vincent Street Glasgow. G2 5SG JOHN MACLAUCHLAN MILNE RSA (British, 1886-1957) Iona Sold for £52,871

bonhams.com/glasgow Prices shown include buyer’s premium.

Details can be found at bonhams.com

THE THESCRIPT SCRIPT

Could the lynx feature on Pictish stones showing cat-like animals?

RETAIL

CARRIED AWAY

Reusable bag range unveiled

The lynx effect

MALCOLM COCHRANE

This wildcat could yet make a comeback in the Highlands, says Bob Tevendale, natural history adviser for Historic Scotland The reintroduction of animals once living in Scotland and driven to extinction by man has become widespread. Red kites, white-tailed eagles and beavers are among recent projects, but reintroduction is not a new phenomenon. During the early 1800s, capercaillie and red squirrels were brought back to the Cairngorms from Scandinavia and England respectively.

If natural recolonisation by a species is possible, the government is required to consider it. Such is the enthusiasm for ‘rewilding’ projects that they have set up a forum, chaired by Scottish Natural Heritage, to consider future reintroductions.

There are many candidates. Some, such as the bittern, are uncontentious.

Others, like the wolf or brown bear, evoke much argument.

Although the lynx is a carnivore, its reputation is less fearsome, so it may just make the cut. Generally a solitary forest dweller, the lynx is about twice the size of a domestic cat, and feeds mainly on small deer.

In Scotland, the feline mammal would probably hunt roe, sika and young red deer; perhaps occasionally foxes and hares.

After the last ice age, the lynx returned to Scotland from

VIEW FROM OUTDOORS

continental Europe before the rising sea level cut off the British Isles. They were previously thought to have died out in pre-human history: a victim of climate change. In fact, they survived up until the middle ages, when forest clearance and hunting may have led to general extinction, with a few surviving pockets. Recently discovered lynx bones, from a cave in Inchnadamph in the north-west Highlands, have been dated to 1770.

The lynx’s excellent eyesight makes it capable of spotting a mouse as far as 250 feet away. Native North Americans believed the lynx could see through solid objects and see hidden truths.

They came to be known as the ‘keeper of secrets’, and feature widely in North American mythology.

It has long puzzled me that there are no acknowledged depictions of lynx on Pictish carved stones. If the North American natives revered it so, why didn’t the Picts? Bears and wolves appear on stones, so why not the lynx?

As a top predator, an excellent hunter known to climb trees and swim rivers, there is much to be admired.

Some stones, though, depict cat-like animals. Think of the Drosten stone at St Vigeans or the Dunfallandy near Pitlochry. Next time you are looking at a Pictish stone, why not see if you can spot a lynx?

Following the introduction of the carrier bag levy, Historic Scotland is pleased to announce a new range of ‘bags for life’.

The line-up includes cotton, jute shopper and bottle bags, and nylon fold-away bags, in a range of designs and for a number of our properties.

Head of merchandising and product development, Natasha Troitino, said: “We are really pleased to declare income of £1,000 for the Historic Scotland Foundation, generated from the levy between October and March, and a significant reduction in the number of bags issued.”

The Historic Scotland Foundation is a charitable fund setup to support the work Historic Scotland does.

Sustainability Officer Eleanor Mitchell added: “The reuse of carrier bags avoids waste, prevents the negative effects of carbon emissions from the production and transportation of bags, minimises litter and pollution in the historic environment, and saves us money.”

The bags will be available in our gift shops soon.

Bags of opportunity

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 17

THE SCRIPT

SPOTLIGHT ON

DUNDRENNAN ABBEY

Cistercian sanctuary in the tranquillity of Dumfries and Galloway “EVERYWHERE PEACE, everywhere serenity, and a marvellous freedom from the tumult of the world,” is how Abbot Aelred of Rievaulx defined the life of a Cistercian monk, and it also remains a fitting description of his order’s home at Dundrennan Abbey, near the town of Kirkcudbright.

The romantic ruins of this spiritual hub founded more than 800 years ago have long fascinated visitors keen to tread in the footsteps of an austere community of monks who dedicated themselves to a ceaseless

round of prayer and hard manual labour.

Although the abbey’s days as a monastic refuge ended with the Reformation in 1560, its impressive buildings survived.

Less than a decade later, on 15 May 1568, Mary Queen of Scots – Dundrennan’s most distinguished guest – spent her last hours on Scottish soil there. She had fled after defeat the Battle of Langside.

She boarded a fishing boat bound for Workington, fated never to return to her native land.

EXPLORE

NORTH TRANSEPT The site of three small private chapels and what is believed to be the tomb of Alan, Lord of Galloway, who died in 1234.

KIRKCUDBRIGHT

Dundrennan Abbey is 10km south-east of Kirkcudbright on the A711

TIMELINE 1142 Dundrennan Abbey is founded

by Fergus, Lord of Galloway, with the help of David I (right)

18 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

1273

1296

Cistercian monks from Dundrennan found Sweetheart Abbey

The abbey swears allegiance to the invading Edward I

ALAMY, SHUTTERSTOCK

Dundrennan Abbey’s impressive ruins

CHAPTER HOUSE The business room, where the monks would conduct business and hear a chapter from the monastic Rule.

CLOISTER This square court surrounded by domestic buildings was where the monks lived and worked.

REFECTORY AND KITCHEN The monks’ meals would be prepared and served here.

They ate in silence and food was generally vegetarian and frugal.

NAVE Lay brothers would have attended services here, with the east end of the church screened off for exclusive use by the monks.

WEST DOOR The main entrance to the abbey church, once protected by a porch or narthex.

1560

1568

1599

1621

1842

The Reformation brings a close to monastic life at Dundrennan

Mary Queen of Scots spends a short time here following defeat at Langside

Administration of Dundrennan Abbey is gifted to John Murray, a groom of the bedchamber to the king

The Crown annexes the abbey’s lands

Dundrennan Abbey is taken into state care

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 19

HOUSE I GARDENS I MAZE I SHOP & EAT I STAY

■ Visit the crowning place of Scottish Kings and the site of the Stone of Scone.

■ Roam around the extensive grounds featuring the Murray Star Maze, Pinetum, Plant Hunters Pavilion, children’s play area and glorious gardens.

The Crowning Place of Scottish Kings

■ Visit the Elizabeth Dido Belle exhibition brought to life in the beautiful, period film ‘Belle’.

■ Browse around our food and gift shops, enjoy refreshments in our coffee shop.

■ Only 45 minutes from Edinburgh Airport, 2 miles north of Perth on the A93. Open 1 April - 31 October, 7days from 9.30am.

■ Combining unique heritage and a stunning location, Scone Palace is the perfect venue for corporate entertaining, weddings, family celebrations and events. Our dedicated team of professionals will ensure your event is a glittering success from start to finish.

■ Enjoy a luxurious stay in our self-catering Balvaird Apartment which is located within the Palace, with 3 beautifully decorated en-suite bedrooms which sleep up to 6 guests. There is a fully equipped dining kitchen and comfortable sitting room with views to the river Tay. An ideal base for golfing breaks, country sporting holidays, wedding parties and short breaks.

t: 01738 552300 e: visits@scone-palace.co.uk

www.scone-palace.co.uk

Release your inner bird handler at the Scottish Game Fair Fri 3 Sat 4 Sun 5 July 2015

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THE SCRIPT

ONES TO WATCH

TELEVISION

DOUNE CASTLE !Perthshire)

Visit locations used for the historical drama Outlander

Stirling

THE time-travel drama Outlander has finally launched in the UK, via Amazon’s Instant Video service. First broadcast in the USA in August 2014, the series has already attracted awards – and a fair amount of media attention.

Historic Scotland welcomed the stars and crew to several properties last year as filming was completed.

We take a look at four of the sites offering stunning backgrounds to the drama, which is an adaptation of the series of novels by Diana Gabaldon.

Doune Castle

ED MILLER/STARZ/SONY PICTURES TELEVISION, SONY PICTURES TELEVISION

Famously known as a film location for Monty Python and the Holy Grail, and the Game of Thrones pilot, Doune is no stranger to the spotlight. In Outlander, it plays the role of Castle Leoch, the seat of Clan MacKenzie.

In real life, the Mackenzies’ seat is at Castle Leod, which is said to have inspired Gabaldon.

Blackness Castle

Dubbed ‘the ship that never sailed’, the waterfront stronghold was built in the 15th century for one of Scotland’s most powerful families, the Crichtons. The castle has taken on many guises over the years, as an impressive artillery fortification and a state prison.

In Outlander it hosts the garrison of Fort William.

Dunfermline

ABERDOUR CASTLE

Falkirk LINLITHGOW BLACKNESS PALACE CASTLE Linlithgow

Linlithgow Palace

Used as prison corridors and entrances in the penultimate episode of series one. When Bonnie Prince Charlie paid a fleeting visit in September 1745, Linlithgow Palace’s fountain was said to be made to flow with wine in celebration. Every Sunday in July and August the elaborate fountain can be seen in action – with water.

Edinburgh

Aberdour Castle and Gardens

One of the oldest stone castles in Scotland, the stunning ruins were used for episode 16 – the finale of the first series – as a monastery. Outlander has been renewed for a second series already, based on the second book in Gabaldon’s series, Dragonfly in Amber.

DESTINATIONS FOR LEARNING

CHILDREN Free access for five to 14-year-olds via Passport programme

Edinburgh Castle, a learning destination

HISTORIC Scotland is delighted to announce its support for a new initiative launched by The Children’s University in Scotland, by allowing free access to holders of its Passport To Learning. To be eligible, children must be accompanied by a paying adult.

Children sign up through their school, and gain credits by visiting approved learning destinations such as Historic Scotland properties. They can then attain

achievement awards, presented at special graduation ceremonies in local universities.

The Children’s University provides recognition for learning outside school hours, encouraging members to visit new places and access new experiences.

For more information on the Children’s University in Scotland visit www.childrensuniversity.co.uk WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 21

HISTORY

MARIE DE GUISE 500th ANNIV

ERSARY

Shrewd politician, inspiring leader and mother to Mary Queen of Scots

M

arie de Guise was described as a “princess most prudent” by her contemporary, Bishop John Lesley. George Buchanan, one of Europe’s greatest Renaissance scholars, said of her death, “some, even of those who had borne arms against her, greatly lamented her”, although he blamed her for overreliance on French advice and decried her “haughty spirit” towards the Protestants.

She provoked strong and conflicting opinions because she was a major player at a crucial time in Scotland’s history. And yet today, even many who recognise the name Marie de Guise – or Mary of Guise – think of her only as the

22 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

mother of Mary Queen of Scots, rather in a Europe riven by tension and war. than a significant figure in her own right. Mary was a valuable card to be played The crucial moment came in the carefully. Guise held that card in her own midstream of her life, in late 1542. Guise, care. She was to play her hand cannily. queen consort of Scotland, gave birth to As descendants of the royal house of a daughter, Mary, at Linlithgow Palace Lorraine, the Guises had a distinguished on 8 December. As the King James V’s ancestry that added to their prestige as only living legitimate child, Mary was rising figures at the French court. also his heir. On 14 December the king, Marie’s parents were Claude, Duke of previously healthy enough, died aged 30. Guise, and Antoinette de Bourbon, a Guise’s infant daughter was now distant relative of the French royals.

Queen of Scots and Guise was thrust into By her mid-teens she had been a central place in Scottish and European introduced to court life. Her marriage to politics. As the news flew around Europe, Louis, Duke of Longueville, quickly so did the realisation that whoever followed, but in 1537, aged 21 married Mary would probably rule and the mother of a young son, Marie de Guise Scotland. This small nation was a she was back on the marriage reached out to the small but significant strategic prize people of Scotland market following her husband’s

ALAMY

JOHN HARRISON UNRAVELS THE LIFE OF A REMARKABLE ROYAL BORN FIVE CENTURIES AGO

WORDS: ALLAN CARSWELL

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 23

HISTORY

Marie de Guise spurned Henry VIII and married James V of Scotland

death. The attractions of her name and fortune were enhanced by her proven ability to bear children. Small wonder Henry VIII saw her as a possible bride.

It is said she declined his offer, saying: “I have a strong body but a slender neck.”

She had probably seen James V of Scotland on his visit to France. That visit had culminated in his marriage to Madeleine, daughter of Francis I of France, on 1 January 1537. Madeleine had always been frail and months later she was dead. Francis now proposed Guise as a new bride for James, who was to keep the substantial dowry paid with Madeleine, and receive another with this second wife. Now in his mid-20s and intensely aware of the need for an heir, James agreed enthusiastically.

Why did Guise agree? She knew remarriage was almost inevitable for a woman of her background. She also realised it was not for personal satisfaction or love. This marriage would make her a queen, although how much she knew of Scotland is uncertain. Was she influenced by realising James might become king of England if his uncle, Henry VIII, died without heirs? Her family would surely support such a match as ardently as Francis. She could see it as a family and patriotic duty,

Henry VIII’s young son, Edward. Guise was crucial in gaining French support for the resistance. In 1548, Mary, now aged five, was sent to France for safety and in preparation for eventual marriage to Francis, heir to the throne of France.

By 1550 the English had been expelled from Scotland. In 1554 Guise formally became Regent for her daughter. Only in the late 1550s was Guise’s policy seriously challenged, with support finally collapsing in 1560.

How did she do it? She was a French woman in a Scots political world even native-born kings had found difficult to manage. As a Roman Catholic she faced a strengthening religious challenge from a growing body of Protestants.

Doubtless her background gave her A LONG LINEAGE self-confidence. It also gave her ready access to the French crown, key to The Guise arms told European gaining French political, financial and aristocrats of her family’s claimed military support. She pursued a policy – descent from the royal house of the maintenance of her daughter’s royal Lorraine, and from Godefroy de rights – consistently but flexibly, rather Bouillon, a famous crusader knight than just reacting to events. who died in 1100. They declared To John Knox’s diatribe against female historic claims to the kingdoms of rulers, she could reply with many Sicily and of Jerusalem. Guise herself examples of successful queens – from owned a set of gold earrings in the Penthesilea, Queen of the Amazons in form of the Cross of Jerusalem, better Greek mythology, to the biblical Queen known now as the Cross of Lorraine.

Esther whose courage saved the Jewish people from persecution. There had been female regents in 16th-century France, creating a French presence in the heart England and Scotland; Mary Tudor was of the Scots elite. queen in England from 1553 to 1558; she So, on 16 June 1538, Guise landed at was succeeded by Elizabeth I. Guise Balcomie in Fife to become queen could counter Knox with cold evidence. consort of Scotland. She was crowned And she countered charges of being a shortly before the birth of her first remote foreigner by immersing Scots son. But this child, and herself in the war effort, his younger brother, died frequently putting herself in within days of each other in danger. While the Scots were 1541. By spring 1542, she besieging the English at was carrying her final child, Haddington in 1548, several later to be known as Mary of those around her were St Andrews Queen of Scots. Nothing killed by artillery fire. She was Castle during those first four years close to the siege at Ancrum and hints at the political skills Mary’s probably saw the fall of St Andrews accession would reveal.

Castle in 1547. She gave a rousing speech The great events that followed are well to naval forces as they sailed to recapture known. England’s repeated attacks on Inchkeith from the English. She visited Scotland – the ‘Rough Wooings’ – aimed army camps to encourage the soldiers. to force agreement to a marriage with Off the battlefield, too, she travelled

She countered charges of being a remote foreigner by immersing herself in the war effort 24 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

Linlithgow Palace, the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots

FORGING CONNECTIONS AROUND SCOTLAND

SHUTTERSROCK, LEE KINDNESS, YALE UNIVERSITY ART GALLERY

Guise kept in touch with Scotland's political elite by travelling extensively, as well as through her letters and countless meetings.

She used all the major royal residences – Stirling,

A young Mary Queen of Scots

Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood, Linlithgow and Falkland – but visited many other locations. In October 1549 she journeyed from Edinburgh, via Kirkcaldy, Dunfermline, Perth and

through Angus, returning via Strathearn, Stirling and Linlithgow. In 1556 she got to Inverness and Elgin, holding justice ayres (itinerant courts), where she met many local landowners.

widely, meeting hundreds of Scots. people to the cause – seen most clearly Above all, she was a networker. A flood in the year 1549, when records show she of correspondence had begun within did not eat a single meal alone. Hundreds weeks of James V’s death, the surviving of people were guests at her table. letters clearly the residue of thousands Royal dining protocol varied from more. The writers refer to previous or country to country, some royals eating anticipated meetings with Guise; publicly, some privately. By the letters were brought by eating with so much company messengers who were to – nobles, commoners and meet her, give further details clerics, men and women, and return the response. She Scots and French, was at the centre of webs of ambassadors and army connection. officers – Guise conveyed a Inchkeith She made use of friends and message of involvement and encouraging supporters. She accessibility. A place at the table secured the release of Lord Maxwell of a crowned queen was an honour. from prison. She got a French pension for Her entertainments helped make her the Earl of Angus, to help keep him ‘on court a significant political focal point. It side’. She arbitrated in disputes. The was a chance to gather information, examples are countless. She used her assess the political or military mood, charisma, wealth and influence to wed confirm alliances and put over her WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 25

XXXXXX

The lavishly decorated royal residence at Stirling Castle

MAGNIFICENCE ON SHOW

viewpoint. Her guests, too, had the chance to advise on or express concerns about issues of the day, and records confirm her role in the administration of justice and as an arbitrator in disputes.

These were tense times. Most Scots welcomed French support in the 1540s, and much of the political class accepted the treaty by which Mary would marry Francis. In 1546 Cardinal Beaton, then leader of the anti-Protestatant cause, was murdered and his castle of St Andrews seized. This failed to provoke a wider rising, though, and most Scots

The 16th-century elite flaunted its wealth and power. Palaces were prominently placed, often approached via a splendid gateway.

Interiors were lavishly decorated with opulent tapestries and carpets, wall hangings and velvet-covered furniture. Clothes of velvet, silk and cloth of gold made practical activity difficult. Deeper layers of fabrics peeped through 'slashed' garments or from cuffs and collars.

likely rejoiced at the castle’s recovery.

By the later 1550s, in spite of Guise’s relatively relaxed attitude to Protestant dissent, divisions were becoming deeper and wider. Mary married Francis in April 1558, making them king consort and queen of Scots. In 1559, on the death of Henry II, they became king and queen of France. Scotland had long fought to avoid being swallowed by England. Was she now to be ruled by French regents acting for absentee French monarchs, dominated by France instead of England?

By 1558, the Protestant Elizabeth I was queen of England and the growing body of Scots Protestants increasingly favoured an English alliance. By 1560, they had direct English support in a civil war against the French in Scotland.

Even before Marie de Guise died in Edinburgh Castle on 11 June 1560, the fate of her regime was sealed. The wonder is that, largely due to her efforts over the previous years, in 1561 the widowed Mary Queen of Scots was able to return to her native country as queen. .See The Other Mary exhibition, page 52

FINAL BOW FOR LORDS OF THE ISLES

A new Scotland was outgrowing old loyalties, says Domhnall Uilleam Stiùbhart

T

he death of James V in 1542 left Scotland in confusion. His baby daughter, Mary, now occupied the throne. Henry VIII of England, newly Protestant, was keen to marry her to his own heir, Edward, thus taming a troublesome neighbour. But he had to contend with Mary’s redoubtable mother, Mary of Guise, and her Frenchsupporting, Catholic, faction.

Then, after nearly 40 years’ incarceration in Edinburgh Castle, Domhnall Dubh – Gaelic for black haired Donald – MacDonald, gained his freedom. Did the last direct heir to the forfeited Lordship of the Isles escape, or was he ‘accidentally’ liberated to

26 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

harry the French-allied Argyll and Gordon families in the Highlands?

Niall Mór MacMhuirich, the late 17th-century historian, had no doubt. Domhnall escaped “le nimertas féine” (by a Fenian exploit) – with the MacDonalds of Glencoe responsible. The castle rock would not daunt the inhabitants of that precipitous glen.

Clans thronged to Domhnall’s standard, because of resentment against the Edinburgh authorities’ past high-handedness and present avarice – not to mention the promise of English gold.

For Domhnall had allied himself with the Earl of Lennox, a claimant to the throne recently returned from France but dealing

A Victorian reimagining of an Isles lord

directly with Henry VIII. In summer 1545 a force of Islesmen and their galleys assembled in Ulster. Sailing up the Firth of Clyde, they would take Scotland by the back door. The two realms

would finally be united under Edward and Mary.

English gold, and leadership, were not forthcoming, though.

After a few frustrating months, the Islesmen went home.

Domhnall Dubh would die in Drogheda of a fever. With him, the Lords of the Isles came to an end.

Shifting factions vied to dominate the realm. Lennox and Domhnall Dubh, long absent, could operate unhampered by existing political alliances. As virtually unknown strangers, though, they could not inspire enduring loyalty and commitment. And, maybe, did Highland clans prefer the autonomy they then enjoyed to a resurgent Lordship of the Isles?

2014 WINNER BEST RAIL OPERATOR

OUT AND ABOUT

The impressive grounds of Dirleton Castle

THE GREAT OUTDOORS Visiting some of Scotland’s most admired gardens takes Kathleen Nutt on a journey through time

28 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

COLIN MEARNS

I

t’s hardly the most promising start to a family day out when my three-year-old son Alex asks “are we nearly there yet?” minutes after leaving home.

Placated by a box of breadsticks and Judith Kerr’s The Tiger Who Came To Tea on the car’s CD, though, the five of us arrive happily at Dirleton Castle and Garden an hour and a half later.

The 13th-century stone ruin cannot be missed from the A1 and we turn off a few miles west of North Berwick and into the pretty East Lothian conservation village from which the castle takes its name.

Today is the first time we have visited

Kathleen Nutt and family at Dirleton Castle and Garden

the Historic Scotland property, set in some of the country’s most admired grounds. To get our bearings we head up to the dovecot close to the foot of the castle. The beehive-shaped structure was built in the 16th century to hold more than 1,000 nesting pigeons, creating an abundant and convenient food supply for the castle’s residents.

Approaching the castle, but before we reach the drawbridge, Alex and his sisters Genevieve and Freya stop to admire a large sprawling tree with soft bark and low, broad branches perfectly suited to swinging, climbing and sitting on. Mark Allan, the head gardener at

OUT AND ABOUT

Dirleton Castle and Garden, later explains it’s a thuja and that Native Americans use this type of tree to build canoes.

Reaching the top of the castle ruins we see the expanse of the gleaming Forth and the Bass Rock just off the coast, and get a partial view of the sweep of the gardens below.

Historians believe the pleasance, or gardens, were originally laid out by the Ruthven family, who occupied the castle with their 15 children in the 16th century.

The current sunken bowling green was probably back then a parterre, where raised beds were linked by a network of coloured gravel paths. It was screened by a yew hedge, providing privacy for the castle’s residents and guests. Amid the yews is an impressive Californian redwood. Genevieve, Freya and Alex love feeling its orange spongy bark.

The gardens seem to fall into two distinct areas: the Arts and Crafts garden, dating back to the 1920s, and a flower garden laid out in 1993 to a Victorian plan of 1865.

Probably the best-known feature overall is the herbaceous border in the Arts and Crafts garden. It is the longest in the world and runs for 215m, forming a U shape around a wide, open lawn. A sign stuck into the soil reads:

“Weeds are flowers too when you get to know them – Winnie-the-Pooh.” It greets every visitor and makes me think of the enormous task Mark and his apprentices have in tending the massive borders. They have just finished putting 30 tonnes of compost down on two of the beds to help the plants grow and look their best come summer.

Daffodils, crocuses and tulips are coming into bloom when we visit, but on a warm summer day the border packed with more than 200 varieties of plants and shrubs will be bursting with colour.

The blues from delphiniums, oranges and reds from heleniums and chrysanthemums, as well as yellows and whites from the sunflowers and large daisies, will be dazzling. I can imagine an abundance of fragrances as scents from lavenders mix with those from the

Kathleen and Alex wonder at the beehive shaped, 16th-century dovecot at Dirleton

Colourful beds by Dirleton’s 19th-century summerhouse

30 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

Genevieve branches out on a thuja tree at Dirleton Castle

COLIN MEARNS

OUT AND ABOUT

roses, wisterias and magnolias, giving the garden a wild, spontaneous feel.

The Victorian gardens, flanked on one side by a three-metre-high beech hedge, have a more formal and precise appearance. Mark and his small team take about ten days to plant the 17 beds with around 2,500 plants in May according to a painstakingly designed pattern he draws out beforehand on paper. The resultant display of begonias, geraniums and lobelias is at its most spectacular in early summer, attracting visitors from all over Scotland and further afield.

The Dirleton gardens and grounds provide rich, varied spaces for us to explore. Heading back to the car, I reflect on how privileged we are to have enjoyed the grounds of such an historic castle like many thousands of couples and families before us – including the Ruthvens and their 15 children.

Aberdour may be the oldest standing masonry castle in Scotland

ABERDOUR CASTLE he gardens at Aberdour Castle on the north coast of the Firth of Forth near Burntisland, Fife, may be among the oldest in Scotland.

While the castle dates back to the 12th century, the earliest mention in the records of a garden at Aberdour is in 1540 and there may have been one there earlier.

Today, what survives of the terraced garden and beehive dovecot was added in the 16th century by James Douglas, 4th Earl of Morton, who ruled Scotland as regent on behalf of the infant King James VI from 1572 to 1578.

Regent Morton, himself a keen gardener, is believed to have laid out the terraced garden to the south of the castle. He was executed in 1581 for his part in the murder of Lord Darnley, the husband of Mary, Queen of Scots.

Over the centuries much of the terraces lay buried under piles of earth. They were excavated and reconstructed in the late 1970s, and now consist of four broad, L-shaped

T

The herbaceous border – the longest in the world – runs for 215m forming a U shape around a lawn

terraces linked by flights of steps.

In 1690, an orchard was laid out below the terraces by Charles Liddel, the gardener. Three dozen fruit trees were planted, including peach and ‘apricock’.

The present orchard was planted in the 1990s on the site of the original.

It is believed the top terrace would originally have contained a formal layout of flower beds, although today the terraces are planted with grass for easy maintenance. The dovecot, dating back to the 16th century and with room for 600 nesting pigeons, stands on the southern end of the terrace.

The site also includes a separate garden about an acre in size which is enclosed by 12-foot-high walls. This garden may have been laid out as a formal garden in the 1630s.

By 1668 it was a bowling green, and this use continued at least until 1745. During the Second World War it was used as a market garden and piggery.

It is now laid out with broad herbaceous borders around a lawn with a central sundial, and is best seen in July and August.

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 31

OUT AND ABOUT

EDZELL CASTLE he 17th-century garden at Edzell Castle in Angus is one of the most historically significant in Scotland. Lying within a walled enclosure it was created by the highly educated and cultured David Lindsay.

The garden, a triumph of design and building, is next to the castle. On the walls are 21 carvings, representing the “Planetary Deities”, the “Liberal Arts” and the “Cardinal Virtues”, some of which were based on German engravings published in 1528. Below each carving are recesses thought to have originally been filled with flowers in the appropriate heraldic colours.

With the red stone of the walls as a background, the effect would have resembled the Lindsay coat of arms.

David, Lord Edzell, died in 1610. His son was involved in the murder of a kinsman, Lord Spynie, and the estate was badly affected by the troubles which followed. With Cromwellian forces occupying the castle in the

T

A large clipped yew forms the central feature of the garden, flanked by four smaller yews

1650s, the Lindsays were forced, through debt, to sell the estate in 1715.

Its new owner, the Earl of Panmure, forfeited it for his part in the 1715 Jacobite rising. The estate was then asset stripped, explaining the ruinous buildings you can see now.

Bought by William Maule, the estate was in 1782 passed to the 8th Earl of Dalhousie. In 1932, the garden was placed in state care by the 14th Earl of Dalhousie who, six years later, placed the ruins of the castle in care. By then the garden’s original layout had gone.

The precursor of Historic Scotland reformed the garden, constructing a parterre with eight beds, all enclosed by box hedging arranged around a sunken, central, octagonal grass area.

Around the edges of the beds, neatly clipped box knots were created, inspired by the decorative carved stonework on the walls. Yellow and red hybrid tea roses colour the beds.

A large clipped yew forms the central feature of the garden, flanked by four smaller yews. In the southwest corner are the foundations of the former bathhouse, whose foundations were excavated in 1855 and remain exposed, indicating the building was divided into three apartments – a bathroom, dressing room and sitting room.

The walled garden of Edzell Castle

GREEN AND PLEASANT Many more Historic Scotland sites boast gorgeous grounds

DRYBURGH ABBEY The wooded seclusion of this ruined abbey founded in 1150 gives an inkling of the quiet monastic existence once lived out within its walls. The abundant grounds on the banks of the River Tweed were laid out by the Earl of Buchan in the 18th century.

CASTLE CAMPBELL Far from its tempestuous past, Castle Campbell and its surrounding garden are tranquil in their high setting, at Dollar Glen in Clackmannanshire.

Tackle the steep climb to the castle and you are rewarded with breathtaking hilltop views – a perfect backdrop for a picnic in good weather. The gardens offer a woodland terrain, with the Sochie Falls and the Burn of Sorrow nearby.

STIRLING CASTLE Its stunning grounds include the Queen Anne Garden, to the sunny south side of the castle, overlooked by the Queen’s Lodgings and the Prince’s Tower. Here, visitors can enjoy a peaceful and refined spot where royalty and their courtiers once strolled.

32 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

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HISTORY

Dine with the

A!LIST

On a culinary journey celebrating the Year of Food and Drink, we visit three restaurants within the highest class of protected building WORDS BY JACKIE MCGLONE PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALAN DONALDSON

34 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

FOOD AND DRINK

The Kitchin restaurant in Leith

T

he Michelin-starred chef Tom Kitchin sits in the whisky snug of his eponymously – and aptly – named restaurant in Leith. Behind him, the walls of The Kitchin feature a jigsaw of off-cuts from old casks, giving a clue to the building’s heritage.

From where he sits, he can admire a magnificent stone archway through which whisky was delivered by horse and cart. The restaurant, set within a

converted whisky bonded warehouse, is steeped in history.

Currently Scotland’s chef du jour, the cherubic-featured Kitchin is joined for coffee by Michaela, his Sweden-born wife, and Ron, his father and business manager. Michaela is responsible for the restaurant’s Scottish-Scandi-chic design.

Kitchin, who became the world’s youngest Michelin-starred chef in 2006 at the age of 29, is renowned for his fanatical passion for the finest, freshest Scottish seasonal produce.

Although Kitchin is trained in classical French cookery, under the acclaimed chefs Alain Ducasse and Pierre Koffmann, his confident menus are unashamedly Scottish, his tribute to the Auld Alliance.

Kitchin opened his Leith restaurant nine years ago in the category A-listed former warehouse built between 1800 and 1806. The area then was, in his father’s words, a “restaurant graveyard”, since half a dozen chefs had failed there.

Following extensive refurbishment and WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 35

FOOD AND DRINK

extension, The Kitchin has doubled in size, reflecting its success.

As you enter, you pass a wall of silver birch trees complementing woven silver place mats. There is Timorous Beasties wallpaper, and the wooden floors are bleached. Throughout, grey and turquoise tartans and tweeds give a feeling of luxury.

Honouring the integrity of the building, though, was key for the Kitchins. “Why were all these original features, such as the stonework, covered in plasterboard?” wonders Michaela.

Ron explains she had insisted on keeping every accretion time had scribbled on those stones. “Some had holes in them. Our builders wanted to fill them in. No way.”

This is music to the ears of Elizabeth McCrone, the head of listings and designed landscapes at Historic Scotland, who has joined us. She is delighted to learn the recent work unearthed many secrets, such as a large safe that had long been sealed up.

It contained a collection of keys used to secure the warehouse, although no buried treasure was found. Instead, diners can survey Kitchin’s answer to a treasure map.

It depicts Scotland in relief, with X marking the spots where the day’s Husband-and-wife team ingredients – from Tom and Michaela Kitchin butter and herbs to roe deer and oysters – were sourced.

Asked if his cuisine has been influenced by the restaurant’s location in Leith, the Edinburgh-born Kitchin says, “I guess it’s my shellfish rock pool. The lobsters, for instance, are caught half a mile away in Newhaven. I also use sea vegetables, although the seaweed is definitely not from the Water of Leith.

“Nevertheless, we’re proud to have been part of the regeneration of Leith.

The building and the food have got more in harmony as the menus and the restaurant have evolved. Stripping the place back, finding the natural stone, pulling up old carpets and discovering wooden floors really inspired me, 36 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

Petra Wetzel of West Brewery, Bar and Restaurant on Glasgow Green

leading to us throwing away the traditional white plates and working with potters on more natural, honest designs. The food became more minimalistic, picking up on the essence of the building. Now they sing together.”

Although the Kitchins co-own Castle Terrace Restaurant and The Scran and Scallie gastro pub with the chef Dominic Jack, the empire could yet expand.

The food became more minimalistic, picking up on the essence of the building.

Now they sing together

Kitchin has had offers from all over the world, including London and Dubai, but he agrees with McCrone that “there is something about Leith that makes you want to stay in Leith”.

“Exactly,” says Kitchin. “We shouldn’t be in a five-star hotel. We like being in an area that’s a destination, that’s all about ducking and diving. I love it because you can’t take away the blood, sweat and tears that are within these walls – not only from us but from all those from years gone by. I feel the presence of the past every day. I hope customers do too.”

The Kitchin, 78 Commercial Quay, Edinburgh www.thekitchin.com

FOOD AND DRINK

The on-site brewery at West

WEST BREWERY

BAR AND RESTAURANT

A Glasgow landmark with a German twist

W

hen she first saw the gorgeously ornate exterior of the former Templeton carpet factory on Glasgow Green, Petra Wetzel felt shivers of recognition. Bavaria-born, she was studying at the University of Glasgow at the time.

“I’m not a spiritual person, but I

thought ‘I’ve been here before’,” says the managing director and landlady of the award-winning West Brewery, Bar and Restaurant, one of Glasgow’s most characterful howffs. “I had a sense of déjà vu, then I remembered my parents had taken me to Venice when I was a child.

I was enchanted by the Doge’s Palace.”

Wetzel learned the purpose-built carpet factory, completed in 1892, had been modelled on the Venetian Gothic palace that had so impressed her as a child.

William Leiper, the architect of the Templeton building, had wanted to create a grand design that would not be rejected. With

its parapets, turrets and multicoloured glazed bricks, the building was duly commissioned, provoking one contemporary to comment: “The colours are harmonious, if rather louder than one is used to.”

Wetzel chose the A-listed building as the setting for her spacious restaurant, bar and Bavarian brewery.

“It’s crazy,” she exclaims. “A German setting up a brewery in an iconic building based on a Venetian palace in the heart of Glasgow. But I cherish the fact a building that was once a manufactory is still making something, albeit German beer and food.”

Indeed, as you down a glass of St Mungo lager – Wetzel’s homage to Glasgow’s patron saint – you can soak it up with freshly baked, salty pretzels or hearty German sausages.

Meanwhile, you can watch workers at the on-site brewery produce one of four house beers, or even a seasonal brew, all in accordance with the fastidious German purity laws of 1516.

Weather permitting, you can admire Leiper’s beautiful architecture from the beer garden.

Wetzel has steeped herself in the history of the building. “That’s where heavy machinery once stood,” she says, indicating a vast, exposed stone slab. “You can see the deep gouges it left. Perhaps that’s even where they made the carpet that is now in the Oval Office at the White House.”

West, Templeton Building, Glasgow Green, Glasgow www.westbeer.com

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 37

SIDE DISH If you fancy a helping of history after lunch, try these spots

Head chef Mark Saddler at Greywalls Hotel

GREYWALLS

East Lothian's award-winning Chez Roux restaurant is set in an 'inspiring' landscape

R

egulars at any restaurant run

by Albert Roux, the Gallic godfather of haute cuisine, can expect three dishes to be on the menu – soufflé Suissesse, pike quenelles and tarte au citron.

Diners at Greywalls Hotel, set in a former country house in the small East Lothian town of Gullane, are never disappointed.

The trio of Roux’s signature dishes is always on offer, says Mark Saddler, the head chef at Greywalls, as he sits in the bar of the elegant Edwardian Arts and Crafts building.

Greywalls is a home from home for Saddler. The chef grew up in Gullane, where his parents ran a small hotel and he first indulged his passion for cooking.

“I used to cycle here as a boy, stealing chestnuts from the trees at the gates,” he says. “As a chef, I find the beauty of

The building was designed in 1901 as a holiday home for the Hon Alfred Lyttelton

by Sir Edward Lutyens 38 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

Greywalls and the landscape and seascape inspirational.”

Its setting on the edge of Muirfield championship golf course, with striking views over the Firth of Forth, makes Greywalls a golfers’ paradise – the hotel’s guests have ranged from Sir Nick Faldo to Ronnie Corbett.

The building was designed in 1901 as a holiday home for the Hon Alfred Lyttelton by Sir Edward Lutyens – the architect of New Delhi, the Cenotaph in Whitehall and the British embassy in Washington.

In 1911, another lauded architect, Sir Robert Lorimer, added the west nursery wing, while the sequestered gardens are attributed to Gertrude Jekyll. Here vegetables, soft fruits and herbs are grown for Saddler’s menus – he experiments constantly with his own take on classic recipes.

Still family owned, Greywalls – built from a warm, honey-coloured sandstone – is the only Lutyens house in Scotland. Besides its stunning architecture, part of its charm comes from the anecdotes attached to it. King Edward VII, for instance, stayed at Greywalls several times, and the staff accommodation, hidden in the garden, is still known as the King’s Loo. Greywalls Hotel, Muirfield, Gullane, East Lothian www.greywalls.co.uk

TRINITY HOUSE MARITIME MUSEUM After lunch at The Kitchin, Leith, this fascinating museum is a perfect place to digest. Around a 10-minute walk from the restaurant, it illuminates Leith’s maritime history. Once home to the Incorporation of Mariners and Shipmasters, the building is now a treasure trove of nautical artefacts collected by mariners.

Pre-booked visits only. Call 0131 554 3289 (Mon-Fri).

GLASGOW CATHEDRAL A 20-minute walk from West Brewery is Glasgow Cathedral, the only medieval church in mainland Scotland left almost intact after the Protestant Reformation in 1560. The cathedral features a shrine to St Kentigern, also known as St Mungo, who is thought to have been buried on the site.

TANTALLON CASTLE A drive of around 20 minutes along the A198 will get you from Greywalls to this remarkable clifftop castle overlooking the Firth of Forth. Once the stronghold for the Douglas Earls of Angus, the site is surrounded by land with rare flora and fauna.

ARCHIVES

A WALK IN THE PAST

We discover an intriguingly different face of Scotland as Alec Mackenzie unearths vintage photographs of historic sites INCHCOLM ABBEY The peace and tranquillity that contemporary visitors encounter on the island retreat of Inchcolm belies a past marked as much by conflict and warfare as religious contemplation.

Its location in the Firth of Forth made the island a target during wars with England, and it was a key post for defence right until the Second World War. During the First World War, the land surrounding the 12th century abbey was heavily fortified to defend Edinburgh, Rosyth Naval Base and the Forth Bridge. A battery of guns was strategically

1924

Inchcolm Island was heavily fortified during the First World War to defend Rosyth Naval Base and Edinburgh

Inchcolm Abbey has some military secrets

placed across Inchcolm, including two 6in breechloaders, the shells for which weighed 100lb each.

Besides the state-of-the-art firepower, the 576 Cornwall Works Company, Royal Engineers,

constructed a tunnel for the movement of troops from their accommodation to the battery.

One especially memorable event witnessed by the garrison stationed at Inchcolm in 1916

was when Vice Admiral Sir David Beatty led his battle cruiser fleet out from Rosyth to take part in the Battle of Jutland in the First World War. During the interwar years, the island returned to a state of relative calm, ending with the advent of the Second World War and the need to once again shore up Scotland’s coastal defences.

Inchcolm’s previous incarnation as an island fortress can still be seen in the remnants of gun emplacements at the east end, an observation post and war shelters. The brick NAAFI canteen is now a Historic Scotland shop.

THE SCOTSMAN PUBLICATIONS LTD; RCAHMS

BURLEIGH CASTLE The backdrop for these heavy Clydesdale horses being led from Burleigh Castle back to their steading in this 1958 photograph shows a grand home long put out to pasture.

This ruined tower house is inextricably linked to the fortunes of one family, the Balfours of Burleigh. For more than 250 years, this was their principal residence, after Sir John Balfour acquired the lands in around 1445. His descendant Robert, 5th Lord Burleigh, lost them in 1716, following his involvement in the failed Jacobite Rising of 1715.

Robert’s stewardship of the Burleigh homestead was marked by political intrigue and an apparent crime of passion. In 1709, he was found guilty of murdering Henry Stenhouse, a schoolmaster at Inverkeithing, who had married a woman Robert was in love with. Robert escaped from the Edinburgh Tolbooth by exchanging clothes with his sister, who resembled him.

The castle today sits beside the A911. Some of its missing stonework might have been used to help build a nearby farmhouse in the late 1700s and adjacent steadings in 1840, latterly converted to housing.

The ruined castle is inextricably linked to the fortunes of one family

EARLY 20TH CENTURY

Down on the farm at Burleigh Castle

C. 1890

The gothic Scott Monument in Edinburgh

SCOTT MONUMENT In an Edinburgh scene from 1890, the iconic Scott Monument looks out over a far more placid Princes Street than the one we are familiar with today.

By the turn of the century, this memorial to author Sir Walter Scott had been a landmark for more than 50 years. It was completed in 1844, after its

architect George Meikle Kemp was drowned.

The atmosphere of ‘Auld Reekie’ was yet to leave its mark on the impressive memorial now managed by Edinburgh City Council. A contemporary photograph shows it etched with a black patchwork, testament to the soot from coal-fired steam trains that once passed close by.

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 41

ARCHIVES

ROTHESAY CASTLE If ever a castle was built to take a battering, it is this one – perhaps explaining why it is one of the oldest strongholds in Scotland.

Rothesay Castle, a few minutes’ walk from the ferry terminal on the Isle of Bute, was associated with the Stewart family for much of its life. It once stood, though, on the border between Scottish and Norwegian control in the west of Scotland.

Its circular shape, unique among Scottish castles, reflects the need to repel attacks such as the three-day siege by Norse

forces in 1230. There were longships again on the Clyde three decades later, this time with the Norwegian king Haakon at their head. The castle was again taken, but a violent storm scuppered Norse ambitions. Haakon died in the Bishop’s Palace, Kirkwall on his return voyage.

When the Stewarts came to the throne in 1371 Rothesay became a royal castle. During the late 1400s James IV used it as a base to suppress the Lord of the Isles.

After being damaged during the Cromwellian period, it fell out of fashion – and in to ruin. In 1798

BETWEEN 1843 AND 1848

The great Hill and Adamson focus on Edinburgh Castle

EDINBURGH CASTLE Between 1843 and 1848, the acclaimed pioneer photographers David Octavius Hill and Robert Adamson were very active in capturing Edinburgh life with their calotype prints.

As is still the case in 2015, the castle was a photogenic subject dominating the city’s skyline, and Hill and Adamson skillfully frame it here looming over the warren of buildings that make up the Grassmarket area of the Old Town.

They also took their camera into Edinburgh Castle itself and documented garrison life, building a rapport with the 92nd Gordon Highlanders, who were stationed here between July 1845 and April 1846 on their return from the West Indies.

One 1840s addition to the castle that fascinates present day visitors is the Dog Cemetery, the burial ground for officers’ pet dogs and regimental mascots.

42 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

1830

An engraving of Rothesay Castle by William Miller

one visitor described it as “a very beautiful ruin covered with ivy” – much as this engraving by William Miller shows.

In the 1870s, the castle was conserved for future generations.

XXXXXXX

1972

Newark Castle surrounded by Clyde shipyards

NEWARK CASTLE A bird’s eye view from 1972 shows Newark Castle hemmed in by the giant cranes and sheds of the Clyde’s great shipyards.

The outlook for visitors today is somewhat changed since the closure of the Castle Yard of James Lamont & Co in 1978, but it is still at the heart of Port Glasgow’s activities.

Sitting adjacent to the castle is Ferguson Shipbuilders, the last operation of its type on the lower Clyde.

The unexpected setting offers wonderful views over the river and redevelopment of the surrounding area has allowed Newark Castle to re-emerge and take its rightful place in the townscape.

The castle is associated with

the powerful Maxwell family and Sir Patrick Maxwell in particular.

He became laird in the 1580s and appears to have demolished the earlier great hall and built a new self-contained residence in its place.

Sir Patrick’s building work

may have been refined, but he himself was anything but. A notorious wife beater, he also murdered several neighbours, including two members of the Montgomery of Skelmorlie family in one day.

After the last Maxwell died,

Newark Castle had a series of owners before coming into state care in 1909.

Perhaps the most notable was John Orr, a ropemaker who also dealt in wild animals such as big cats and bears, which he kept in the cellars.

1923

SPECIAL COLLECTIONS, GLASGOW UNIVERSITY LIBRARY; RCAHMS

An ivy-encrusted Dirleton Castle

The picturesque ruins as seen today

SELECTED PICTURES COURTESY OF SCRAN This glimpse into the past has been made possible with the help of Scran, a charity and online resource base. Scran has more than 480,000 images and media from museums, galleries and archives representing

Scottish culture and history.

Contributors to Scran include Historic Scotland, RCAHMS, National Galleries Scotland, National Museums Scotland, Glasgow Museums and more.

Visit www.scran.ac.uk

DIRLETON CASTLE This medieval fortress in the village of Dirleton, East Lothian, served as a seat to three noble families – the de Vauxes, Haliburtons and Ruthvens – in the first 400 years of its existence.

The castle famed for its elegant, well-kept gardens boasts the longest herbaceous border in the

world. The abundant greenery also once crept over the walls of the castle itself, as can be seen in this photograph of the ivyencrusted east range dating from 1923, when Dirleton was taken into state care.

The early 20th century proved constructive for Dirleton. Its beautiful north garden, a product of the Arts and Crafts movement, features fragrant flowers and plants that greet visitors to the property today.

A grand entrance to the castle comes courtesy of a wooden bridge built in the 1930s that continues to offer safe passage across the defensive ditch encircling the fortress walls.

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 43

BEHIND THE SCENES

The stage is set at Craigmillar Castle

COSTUME DRAMA

Meet the junior guides bringing an inner-city castle to life in 16th-century style WORDS BY FIONA MCKINLAY PHOTOGRAPHS BY EUAN ROBERTSON

D

ressing up in costume and performing against the backdrop of a castle might sound like child’s play. Try remembering your lines, though, when the script involves giving the first minister of Scotland a virtual tour of the historic site.

That is just what the pupils of an inner-city Edinburgh primary school did when Nicola Sturgeon visited to see how the junior guides of the nearby Craigmillar Castle were faring.

The pupils of Castleview Primary are no strangers to an audience. They perform for visitors from around the country, and the globe, bringing the 44 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

16th-century story of the castle back to life. Often, their audiences are other primary school pupils. Sometimes they are significant public figures.

Reliving the first minister’s visit, Chloe Steele, a P7 pupil, says, “It was just like any other tour, but this time we knew that we couldn’t muck up any words, no matter what. We didn’t, which was good.”

The 12-year-old plays Sir Simon Preston, a 16th-century head of the household at Craigmillar and a loyal subject of Mary Queen of Scots. When Chloe heads off to secondary school this summer, the role will be taken over by Zander O’Neill from P6.

“Sir Simon sounds like a nice person,” says Zander. “He doesn’t like getting things stolen. He puts people in prison for doing that.”

The junior guide training starts during the winter term of P6 when a drama specialist, Karen McKenzie, takes her first workshop with the class. The pupils study the script, and glean the historical background of the castle and the figures they play. All pupils are involved, although ultimately a smaller group takes part in each castle visit.

Drama sessions with Karen continue through to the summer term, when groups begin rehearsing at the castle and pupils are cast for roles before being

Ishum Akhtar throws herself into the role of Lady Elizabeth WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 45

BEHIND THE SCENES

Linda Bruce Support assistant

Charlie Martin Age 11, P6 Mary, a maid

Zander O’Neill Age 11, P6 Sir Simon

Erin Lyons Age 10, P6 Lady Elizabeth

Ishum Akhtar Age 11, P7 Lady Elizabeth

Owen Casey Age 11, P6 David, a servant Chloe Steele Age 12, P7 Sir Simon Alyx Robertson Age 12, P7 David, a servant

Melissa Heron Age 11, P7 Mary, a maid

FIVE DUFF FACTS

fitted for costumes. At a graduation ceremony in June, the new cast members perform for friends and family.

“The thing about Castleview guides is the journey they make during the year, and how exceptionally good they are,” says Karen. “Come launch day each year, they are completely confident about taking charge of the castle. They talk about it as ‘our castle’. They feel that sense of ownership. The class teachers support the project brilliantly, and the whole school is a joy to work with.”

Karen works with Historic Scotland on 11 junior tour guide projects across the country. “My role is to ensure the pupils feel confident about the material they’re presenting,” she says. “We look at projection of voice – how to make it expressive and interesting. We do a lot about movement and character work.”

A few of the pupils including Chloe, her fellow P7 Melissa Heron, 11, and 10-yearold Erin Lyons from P6, would like to pursue a career in acting. “Or work in Disneyland,” exclaims Melissa. Even for those who don’t, the skills and confidence they gain are an asset.

Ishum Akhtar, from P7, believes learning about the castle – and the art of 46 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

Don’t laugh. Try to keep a straight face, and stay in character. If you sneeze, sneeze like they would storytelling – could help her become an author. Owen Casey, from P6, agrees teamwork could be useful in the pursuit of his ambition to become a footballer. Zander, who wants to be a singer, is pleased to have learned how to project his voice.

Linda Bruce, a support assistant at the school, was working with P6 when the junior guide project was launched at Castleview. She soon found herself heavily involved with the initiative, even donning a costume, and now works primarily with P7.

“At first they all think they’re not going to be able to do it,” she says. “Once they are up at the castle and fitted for their costumes you can see their confidence growing, especially the ones

who lacked it to start with. It’s great to see them shine. They probably wouldn’t get the opportunity to do anything like this otherwise.”

After graduation, the Castleview cast is called upon for regular performances at the castle. Erin says, “We come in costume and wait for the classes or the adults to arrive, then we greet them. We basically take them to all the interesting parts of the castle.”

One of the highlights, according to Chloe, is guiding the castle’s younger visitors, “because they look up to us when they watch us.”

There is little unanimity between the pupils when asked to name their favourite part of the castle. Alyx Robertson, a 12-year-old from P7, and Erin love the tower house. Zander enthuses about the view from the roof, while Owen is a big fan of the dungeon.

Chloe and Ishum like the hall, where their act involves playing a game with visitors.

Of the roles they can adopt, one of the most fun seems to be Lady Elizabeth, the wife of Sir Simon.

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Alyx helps Owen with his lines

“She’s dramatic and she’s very posh,” explains Erin. Ishum adds, “She thinks she’s the grandest lady in Craigmillar. She likes holding banquets and having guests over. I like getting to do her personality.”

It’s clear the pupils benefit educationally from the junior guides project, whether learning about history or honing public speaking skills, but what words of wisdom do the P7s have for their P6 successors?

Melissa, who has starred in a production of Oliver outside school, offers, “Use your voice. Try not to think about anything else, just what you’re doing in that moment. And your words, try to remember them.

“Don’t laugh. Try to keep a straight face, and stay in character. If you sneeze, sneeze like they would.”

Alyx advises the new recruits to avoid getting stressed. “Dinnae think about forgetting your lines, because you always remember them instantly.”

The most important kernel of wisdom offered, though, is to have fun. “There are some people in our class who don’t like

There were my boys and girls, delivering at the highest standard acting, but now they regret not auditioning,” says Chloe.

Lindsey Watt, the headmistress at Castleview, was a key player in bringing the junior guide project to the school and Craigmillar Castle in 2008.

A few years into her role at the school, dialogue with Historic Scotland began as both parties saw an opportunity for improved learning yet to be embraced.

“As a young teacher, I remember the children at Linlithgow Primary School took people on tours at Linlithgow Palace,” says Lindsey. “Originally we thought we’d maybe just have a few guides trained up, but then we spoke about having everybody involved

throughout the school. Now every single child in P6 trains to become a tour guide.

“It brought forward transformative change in our school. At that time, four primaries had come together to make this school, and this was the tipping point that made us into a whole school family.”

The junior guides programme has gone on to take pupils to learning festivals and conferences around the country, impressing a diverse range of audiences – including the first minister.

“She was blown away,” says Lindsey.

“I took pupils to the Scottish Education Awards and people were saying, ‘Oh, is this a private school?’ This is an area of regeneration. It’s had its difficulties. And there were my boys and girls dressed in beautiful costumes, delivering at the highest standard. I’m very proud of our wee school.

“It’s given us a real platform to show what’s possible, that the whole ‘poverty of ambition’ has been eradicated here, and this has been a part of it. It’s empowering for our children.”

Craig Fletcher, senior learning manager at Historic Scotland, echoes Lindsey’s sense of pride in the award-winning project.

“Generations of children from this inner-city area now have the opportunity to thrive, acting as ambassadors for their school, community and Historic Scotland wherever they perform. Through their participation these remarkable young people – along with teaching staff, family and friends – are not just taking pride in their community but playing a role in improving it.”

GET FAMILIAR WITH CRAIGMILLAR A brilliantly preserved castle atop a hill outside Edinburgh, Craigmillar gives stunning views across the city from its tower house.

The property was developed by the Preston family from the 15th century – historians have found it difficult to date the castle precisely.

48 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

Royal guests often frequented the castle, a peaceful retreat outside the capital. Mary Queen of Scots spent time there – Sir Simon of Preston was one of her most loyal supporters.

During one of Mary’s stays, a group of conspirators is said to have made a pact to

dispose of her husband, Henry, Earl of Darnley. This became known as the Craigmillar Bond. It is unlikely that Mary knew the details.

The Prestons’ involvement with the castle ceased in 1660, when a descendant of Sir Simon sold the estate to Sir John Gilmour.

SPECIAL OFFER

FRIENDS AND FAMILY MEMBERSHIP OFFER I

f you enjoy your Historic Scotland membership, now’s the time to tell your friends and family. They can enjoy great days out all year round, and our Member Get Member scheme means they’ll save 20% on their membership fee when they join.

Paying by direct debit is great value

too, and with 20% off the annual cost a concession membership is only £2.50 a month.

MEMBER GET MEMBER SCHEME There are two ways to take advantage of the Member Get Member scheme: l Ask your friend or family

member to call 0131 668 8999.

Tell them to quote your membership number and mention the Member Get Member offer. We can then process their discounted-rate membership over the phone. l Go to any staffed Historic Scotland attraction with your

friend or family member and show your membership card.

Your friend can sign up at the discounted rate.

Terms and conditions apply. For new annual membership only. Not available for renewals or life membership.

See www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/ member for details

FIVE REASONS TO BECOME A MEMBER

2

The secrets behind

the Mons Meg MOT

31

INSIDE

SUMMER 2015 THE MAGAZINE FOR HISTORIC

SCOTLAND MEMBERS

MEET THE

JUNIOR GUIDES Follow the trail of Outlander Discover two moated castles

6

STUNNING GARDENS TO EXPLORE

Mary Guise

of

WWW.HISTO

EN

JOY A

SUMMER

OF

Discounts on Historic Scotland products and dining events.

Half-price entry into 500 heritage attractions in England, Wales and on the Isle of Man.

EXCITING EVENTS

SUMMER 2015

1

Free entry to more than 70 of Scotland’s top heritage attractions.

5

3

A personal copy of Historic Scotland magazine posted out four times a year direct to your door.

Scotland’s shrewdest royal 500 years on

4

A chance to take part in member activities – including tours, lectures and lunches.

EVENTS A RANGE OF EXCITING ACTIVITIES ACROSS SCOTLAND

FOR FULL DETAILS Pick up your events guide at any of our properties or visit www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/events DAYTIME EVENTS ARE FREE TO MEMBERS, UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED

JUNE!SEPTEMBER

KEEP UP TO DATE

with all our activities at www.historic-scotland. gov.uk/events

LIGHT UP YOUR SUMMER

Line up a cracking season with events ranging from breathtaking jousting

50 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

Toilets

Restaurant/cafĂŠ

Gift shop

Reasonable wheelchair access

Dogs not permitted

Parking

Young guns: have a cracking time during Celebration of the Centuries at Fort George

Explore the colourful past of Dumbarton Castle at The Rock of Ages

HIGHLIGHTS

THE ROCK OF AGES DUMBARTON CASTLE

Sat 13-Sun 14 Jun; 12-4pm 0131 668 8885 www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/ rock Come along to explore more than 1,000 years of history from the Vikings to the Second World War. Witness the castle’s colourful past being brought to life.

Hear the crack of musketry and the clash of weaponry as you learn about the tumultuous sieges that took place.

SPECTACULAR JOUSTING LINLITHGOW PALACE

Sat 4-Sun 5 Jul; 12.30-4.30pm 0131 668 8885 www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/ jousting

to a celebration of Mary of Guise

CELEBRATION OF THE CENTURIES FORT GEORGE

Sat 8-Sun 9 Aug; 11am-5pm 0131 668 8885 www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/ celebration Immerse yourself in more than 2,000 years of Scottish history at Fort George, one of the finest military fortifications in Europe.

With lively presentations, bustling encampments and a vibrant 1940s zone, there is plenty to keep everyone entertained.

More than 250 performers bring history alive, depicting life from the Picts and Romans, through the Viking, Medieval, Renaissance, Reformation and Jacobite eras to the First and Second World Wars.

Experience an afternoon of thrills and spills. Hear the thunder of hooves and the crack of lances splintering as our daring knights battle it out in the arena. Enjoy a full programme of activities with shows and presentations throughout the afternoon. Drop in to the Palace, wander through the bustling camps on the Peel and watch fascinating foot-combat and living-history displays.

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 51

JUNE

RING OF BRODGAR WALK RING OF BRODGAR

Daily Jun-Aug. Every Thu in Sep; 1pm 01856 841732 orkneyrangers@ scotland.gsi.gov.uk Explore the area around the Ring of Brodgar during an easy daily guided walk with one of our Rangers.

STANDING STONES OF STENNESS AND BARNHOUSE VILLAGE WALK STANDING STONES OF STENNESS

Every Mon, Wed, Fri, Jun-Aug. Every Wed in Sep; 10am 01856 841732 orkneyrangers@ scotland.gsi.gov.uk Join us for an easy guided tour of our oldest stone circle and explore the fascinating links with the nearby Neolithic village of Barnhouse.

ARTHUR’S SECRETS HOLYROOD PARK

Every Tue, Jun-Jul; 1-3pm 0131 652 8150 hs.rangers@scotland.gsi.gov.uk Booking essential Join us on a moderate guided walk to learn more about Arthur’s Seat’s turbulent past, created by fire and ice.

ARCHAEOLOGY AND BIRDS AT BRODGAR RING OF BRODGAR

Every Thu in Jun, and Thu 2 Jul; 10am 01856 841732 orkneyrangers@ scotland.gsi.gov.uk Explore the Ring of Brodgar and the RSPB reserve during an easy guided walk with one of our Rangers and an RSPB officer.

52 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

THE OTHER MARY STIRLING CASTLE

Until Sun 27 Sep; 9.30am-6pm 01786 450000 www.stirlingcastle.gov.uk/ events An exhibition marking 500 years since the birth of French noblewoman Mary of Guise.

Come along to learn how this often-forgotten figure came to rule the kingdom of Scotland, guarding the throne for her daughter, Mary Queen of Scots.

Read more about Mary of Guise on page 22.

THE FRENCH CONNECTION STIRLING CASTLE

Sat 18-Mon 20 Jul; 9.30am-6pm 01786 450000 www.stirlingcastle.gov.uk/ events Admire the work of five artists from Douai in France, who work with a variety of materials from glass to

MASTER DRAUGHTSMAN

Hall of fame: Mary of Guise is depicted in this replica Stirling Head

ceramics. This exhibition celebrates the connection between Scotland and Douai, which offered Scottish Catholics a refuge during the Reformation.

AND YET IT STANDS STIRLING CASTLE

Sat 18 Jul-Wed 30 Sep 9.30am-6pm

hs.rangers@scotland.gsi.gov.uk Booking essential

DUFF HOUSE

Until Sun 5 July; 11am-5pm 01261 818181 www.duffhouse.org.uk/whats-on Explore the work of Allan Ramsay, an 18th-century Scottish artist who was born in Edinburgh. This exhibition, from the National Galleries of Scotland, is a showcase of outstanding drawings and a masterpiece painting.

ARTHUR’S AMBLE

Come on a gentle guided walk around the Hunter’s Bog and St Margaret’s Loch to learn more about Arthur’s Seat’s past.

SCOTTISH CHAMBER ORCHESTRA STIRLING CASTLE

Thu 4 Jun; 8pm Tickets from Albert Halls ticket office on 01786 473544 Members’ discount available

HOLYROOD PARK

Mon 1, Mon 15, Mon 29 Jun; Mon 13 and Mon 27 Jul; 1-2.30pm 0131 652 8150

The Scottish Chamber Orchestra presents an evening of joyous classical and romantic music, led by French conductor

01786 450000 www.stirlingcastle.gov.uk/ events A showcase of paintings depicting the life and times of Mary of Guise,

by Iona Leishman. The exhibition is a part of this summer’s 500-year commemoration of her birth.

Alexandre Bloch. This evening programme is sure to sparkle with energy, enthusiasm and summer warmth.

THE KING’S TOURNAMENT DUNDONALD CASTLE

Sun 7 Jun; 12-4pm 0131 668 8885 www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/ events Experience the excitement as King David I of Scotland arrives with his entourage to meet Walter FitzAlan, founder of the Stewart dynasty, and appoint him High Steward of Scotland.

Watch a foot tournament staged in honour of his new title.

Toilets

Restaurant/café

Gift shop

Reasonable wheelchair access

ARTHUR’S ADVENTURES HOLYROOD PARK

CAPTURE THE CASTLE! CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE

Sat 25-Sun 26 Jul; 12-4pm 0131 668 8885 www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/ events

Join a challenging guided walk to learn about the turbulent past of Arthur’s Seat, created by ice and fire.

WILDFLOWER WANDER OF BRODGAR RING OF BRODGAR

Sun 14, Sun 28 Jun; Sun 5 Jul; 2.30pm 01856 841732 orkneyrangers@scotland.gsi.gov.uk

BOTHWELL BESIEGED BOTHWELL CASTLE

Sun 21 Jun; 12-4pm 0131 668 8885 www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/ events Summer 1301, and Bothwell Castle endures a momentous siege at the hands of the English army led by Edward I. Learn about brutal siege techniques and the mighty engine ‘le berefrey’, while getting close to period objects and artefacts. Part of Dig it! 2015.

Parking

the King’s Guard. To prove himself he plunges headlong into an adventure to retrieve the Queen’s jewels.

Mon 8, Mon 22 Jun; Mon 6 and Mon 20 Jul; 1-4pm 0131 652 8150 hs.rangers@scotland.gsi.gov.uk Booking essential

This easy guided walk around Brodgar’s beautiful wildflower meadow will look at some of the flora in the area and explore how they are being cared for and managed.

Dogs not permitted

Bothwell Castle is under siege by Edward I and his army

JULY

THE SORCERER’S APPRENTICE DUFF HOUSE

Wed 15 Jul; doors 5.45pm, 6.30pm start £12 adults, £10 concessions, £8 children, £35 family (two adults and two children), 10% members’ discount Tickets available at Duff House or www.illyria.uk.com The Apprentice is told to fill a bath with buckets of water but when he uses magic to do the job, he realises he doesn’t know how to make it stop.

Non-stop laughter.

Age 5+

THE THREE MUSKETEERS ELGIN CATHEDRAL

Fri 24 Jul; doors 6.45pm, 7.30pm start £14 adults, £12 concessions, £10 children, £42 family (two adults and two children), 10% members’ discount Tickets available at Elgin Cathedral or www.illyria.uk.com All for one – and one for all.

Young D’Artagnan is desperate to be an elite Musketeer of

Bring along your arms and armour and lay siege to the mighty fortress of Caerlaverock Castle.

Explore the medieval encampment, test your skills at knightly pursuits and get hands on with a bow and arrow.

PRIDE AND PREJUDICE STIRLING CASTLE

Thu 30 Jul; doors 6.45pm, 7.30pm start DUFF HOUSE

Thu 13 Aug; doors 6.45pm, 7.30pm start £14 adults, £12 concessions, £10 children, £42 family (two adults and two children), 10% members’ discount Tickets available from both sites and www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/ members Step back in time to meet

Let battle commence at the mighty fortress of Caerlaverock

ROYAL PURSUITS HOLYROOD PARK

WITHIN THESE WALLS HOLYROOD PARK

Sun 21 Jun, Sun 12 July, Sun 16 Aug; 12-3pm 0131 652 8150 hs.rangers@scotland.gs.gov.uk Booking essential A series of three walks around the boundary wall of Holyrood Park, built in the 1540s by James V of Scotland.

Sun 19 Jul; 12-4pm 0131 668 8885 www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/ events Join Mary Queen of Scots as we celebrate her marriage to Lord Darnley with an afternoon of revelry and fun. Wander among the stalls and sample the delicious Scottish produce on offer.

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 53

Visiting Scotland?

Bring your best friend with you.

Lots of dog friendly places to visit.

Stay a day or a week. Dogs, Cats at Melfort Pier, we love your pets.

Mi dsta week and y thr SPEC e fou you e da IAL, rth get ys, for you FRE r E!!

www.mellowmelfort.com 01853- 200- 333

Melfort Pier & Harbour Kilmelford, near Oban Argyll, PA34 -4XD Open all year, call for specials

Toilets

Restaurant/café

Gift shop

Reasonable wheelchair access

Dogs not permitted

Parking

Elizabeth Bennet, Jane Austen’s most lovable heroine. When Elizabeth meets the rude and abrupt Mr Darcy, she loathes him at first sight. But is there more to him than meets the eye? Bring a picnic to enjoy with your family and friends and lose yourself in this unforgettable love story.

AUGUST

DONIZETTI’S MARIA STUARDA STIRLING CASTLE

Fri 14 Aug; doors 6.45pm, 7.30pm start £12 adults, £10 concessions, £8 children, 10% members’ discount Tickets available at Stirling Castle or www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/ members Magnetic Opera, in partnership with Historic Scotland, debut their contemporary take on Donizetti’s Scottish masterpiece which focuses on the final months of Mary Queen of Scots’ life.

THE GREAT ESCAPE DOUNE CASTLE

Sun 23 Aug; 12-4pm 0131 668 8885 www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/ events

Rebels and redcoats will shoot it out at Stirling Castle

REBELS AND REDCOATS STIRLING CASTLE

Sat 26-Sun 27 Sep; 12-4pm 0131 668 8885 www.stirlingcastle.gov.uk/ events Join us as we commemorate the 300th anniversary year of the Battle of Sheriffmuir. Meet

hs.rangers@scotland.gsi.gov.uk Experience Doune Castle following the Jacobite victory at Falkirk in 1746, where some notable redcoat soldiers were kept prisoner.

Join the minister John Witherspoon, signatory of the American Declaration of Independence, as he and his comrades take you through the plan of their daring escape.

Come along for a gentle evening stroll to learn about, and look and listen for bats. This walk will be led by a Historic Scotland Ranger and a bat expert.

SEPTEMBER

NATURE’S HARVEST HOLYROOD PARK

THINGS THAT GO SQUEAK IN THE NIGHT HOLYROOD PARK

Sun 6 Sep; 1-3.30pm 0131 652 8150 hs.rangers@scotland.gsi.gov.uk Booking essential

Fri 28 Aug; 8-10pm LINLITHGOW PALACE

Sat 29 Aug; 8-10pm £5 adult, £4 concession, £3 child, 10% members’ discount Booking essential 0131 652 8150

Uncover the culinary uses of plants which grow all around us. Join an expert horticulturist and one of our Rangers on this fascinating discovery of plants.

Government soldiers garrisoned in the castle and captured Jacobite prisoners as they recall their experiences from the battle. Discover more about the military tactics deployed, the difficulties both sides faced in securing a decisive victory and what ultimately led to the defeat of the 1715 Jacobite Rising.

TANTALLON UNCOVERED TANTALLON CASTLE

Sat 12-Sun 13 Sep; 12-4pm 0131 668 8885 www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/ events

is revealed. Tantallon Uncovered is part of Dig It! 2015.

CELTIC CRAG HOLYROOD PARK

Sat 19 Sep; 12-3pm 0131 652 8150 hs.rangers@scotland.gsi.gov.uk Booking essential Join a Ranger for a guided walk, where we’ll delve into the park’s rich Celtic past to uncover the reality behind the myths.

ACTIVE

ARCHAEOLOGY Visit the mighty stronghold of HOLYROOD PARK Tantallon Castle and discover Sun 27 Sep; 11am-3pm more about the bitter sieges and 0131 652 8150 fiercely fought feuds that hs.rangers@scotland. dominated the castle’s past. gsi.gov.uk Hear musket fire and clashing pikes echo Discover what from the walls life was like and see firstin the Iron Age hand the latest by meeting archaeological characters from excavations as Get digging at the past and the fascinating Tantallon Castle trying out skills history buried from the period. beneath the ground WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 55

GUESS THE YEAR

WIN

WORK OUT THE MYSTERY YEAR AND WIN

HOW TO ENTER If you can identify the correct year from the options below, visit www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/ guesstheyear or post your answer, with your name, membership number and address, to Guess the Year, Historic Scotland magazine, Longmore House, Salisbury Place, Edinburgh EH9 1SH by Thursday 6 August. See www.historicscotland.gov.uk/member for terms and conditions.

WINNING PRIZE The winning entrant will receive a cheese and wine hamper from Scottish Hampers (www.scottishhampers.co.uk) containing a bottle of Bordeaux, Scottish cheese, crackers and flame-roasted coffee, among other treats. The competition is only open to members aged over 18.

THE MEMORIAL George Henry Paulin’s Kirkcudbright war memorial outside MacLellan’s Castle portrays a seated warrior protecting a child with a shield and sword. Paulin was a World War I veteran, having served with the Lothians and Border Horse Regiment. The bronze sculpture highlights 88 names from World War I and 36 from World War II. Unveiled in 1921, it is one of Scotland’s many Paulin-sculpted war memorials.

MACLELLAN’S CASTLE WAS BUILT IN THE 16TH CENTURY BY SIR THOMAS MACLELLAN OF BOMBIE, WHO ACQUIRED THE SITE OF THE RUINED GREYFRIARS CONVENT FOLLOWING THE REFORMATION

ANSWER THIS QUESTION In which year was MacLellan’s Castle sold by the family?

A: 1752 B: 1755 C: 1757

LAST ISSUE’S GUESS THE YEAR Walter Scott’s first novel, Waverley, was published in 1814. Congratulations to Mrs J Matthews of Forres 56 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

INDEPENDENTLY OWNED AND INDEPENDENTLY MINDED.

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