13 minute read

AUCTION HIGHLIGHTS

117 Kiviette Ball Gown, 1950-60s Very full pink tulle ball gown trimmed with pink silk taffeta and pink and clear sequins. The boned bodice features an hourglass silhouette with straps made of tulle and sequins. The very full skirt is made of layers of tulle that are supported by an inner skirt with boned hips. The dress closes down the center back with a zip. Label: Kiviette No Size Label Property from the Collection of Terry Beavers, Omaha, Nebraska. $100-$200

301 Halston ‘Cloud’ Dress, 1973 Long white and grey jersey dress printed with clouds and covered with clear sequins. Sleeveless with a deep scoop neckline, long hem and a side zip. Fully lined with white jersey. Label: Halston No size label $700-$800 299 Halston Two-Piece Dress, 1980s The bodice is made of black silk crepe that was hand-embroidered in India with purple, clear and silver beads and sequins, some of which dangle. The bodice is a pull over style with a wide scoop neckline and long sleeves with a zig-zag hem. The skirt is made of purple velvet with a gathered elastic waistline, flared hem and is lined. Label: Halston Label: Size 8 $100-$200 303 Hanae Mori Dress, c.1975 Silk chiffon and crepe printed with a fauna pattern that is embroidered on the bodice and sleeves with glass beads that match the print. The large pink, red and white bloom extends from under the left arm and around the front and back of the bodice, which has a stand collar, long sleeves and a center back zip and snaps. The skirt is gathered into a dropped waistline and the hem is hand-stitched and cut to match the pattern of the print. Label: Hanae Mori / Made in Japan Size Label: 6 $300-$400

241 Christian Dior Haute Couture Dress, Tie and Belt, 1975 Tan raw silk dress with vertical machinestitched tucks that release at the hip, a gathered waistline, long sleeves gathered into a buttoned cuff and a center back zipper. Separate neck tie of self-fabric and a brown leather belt with a wooden buckle. Bodice is unlined and the skirt is lined with a thin tan silk crepe. Most of the main seams and all of the tucks are sewn by machine while most of the finishing stitching on the inside is done by hand. Label on dress: Christian Dior / Paris / Spring-Summer 1975 / 05852 No Size Label $200-$300 471 Michaele Vollbrach Caftan, 1970-80s White silk crepe caftan printed with an abstract floral motif and stripes. The edges, hem and neckline of the caftan are edged with a strip of black fabric. At the center front of the caftan at the bottom of the neckline are two hooks and eyes for a closure. Label: Michaele Vollbrach No Size Label $200-$300 253A Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Dress, c.1975 Tan silk printed with black check-marks and cut in a Flapper-style with a straight bodice, dropped waist and flared skirt. The crew neckline is finished with an attached selffabric panel that ties off-center. The long sleeves have a zip closure at the hem and the dress closes with a center back neck placket of buttons, loops and snaps. The dress has a cream silk lining that is almost entirely sewn by hand. Label: Yves Saint Laurent / Patron Original / Paris / Made in France / 32619 No Size Label $300-500

249 Galanos Jacket, Vest and Skirt, 1960s All three items are made of the same Ikat print fabric in a floral scene with butterflies. The skirt is a-line with a gathered hem, wide waistband and center back zipper. The fitted vest is sleeveless with a center button closure. The jacket has a notched collar, three-quarter length sleeves, a deep pocket over each side of the chest and a series of vertical tucks across the back. Label: Galanos (Label is in the jacket and vest only) No size label $200-$300 252 Galanos Dress and Coat, 1970s Dress and coat made of white fabric printed with a stylized geometric pattern in blue, red, yellow and black. The long dress is sleeveless with a wide pointed collar and closes down the entire center front with black buttons and bound buttons holes. The gathered waist is secured with a separate black patent leather belt. The collarless long coat (not shown) has a v-neckline, long sleeves and a center front black button closure. The front of the coat is trimmed with decorative pocket flaps outlined in black and the coat is lined ith black fabric. Label: Galanos No Size Label $300-$400 250 Galanos Dress, 1970s Brown and cream printed dress with gathered elastic crew neckline that closes with a selffabric tie, long full sleeves gathered into an elastic cuff and a double layered skirt with deep slits to the dropped waist. The dress is entirely underlined with a thin layer of off-white silk crepe. The raglan sleeves are attached to the main body of the dress with a decorative stitch and the dress closes with a side zip. Label: Galanos No size label $150-$200

Karl Lagerfeld

Karl Lagerfeld (1933-2019) was a German artist, designer, couturier and creative director of numerous important fashion labels, including Jean Patou, Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel. Throughout his career, Lagerfeld was involved with an impressive list of collaborations with artists, designers and other fashion labels, making him one of the most influencial designers of the late 20th and early 21st centuries.

Our auction includes numerous Chanel items, including clothing, bags, costume jewelry and many pairs of unworn shoes. Also featured are three garments made under the Karl Lagerfeld label, including a collection of costume jewelry, all from the 1980s. Numerous Fendi bags are also offered in this auction.

191 Chanel Brown Patent Leather Boy Bag $2,000-$3,000

192 Chanel Black Jumbo Double Flap Bag, 2012 Stamp: Chanel. Made in Italy. 2,000-$3,000

194 Chanel Pink Caviar Double Flap Handbag $800-$1,000

195 Chanel Cream Medium Double Flap Bag, 2004-05 $800-$1,000

196 Chanel Black Caviar Double Flap Handbag $800-$1,000

199 Chanel Gold Leather Handbag $800-$1,000

200 Chanel Black Lizard Bag, 2015-16 $1,500-$2,000 206 Karl Lagerfeld Jacket & Belt, 1990s Label: Karl Lagerfeld / Made in France $300-$400

147 Chanel Gripoix Brooch, 1999 Property from a Private Estate, Highland Park, Illinois $200-$400

164 Chanel Bangle and Hair Clip, 2005 Stamped: Chanel $200-$300

212 Karl Lagerfeld Earrings $100-$200

165 Chanel Bangle and Hair Clip, 2005 Each Stamped: Chanel $200-$300

144 Chanel Black and White Camellia Pin, Stamped: Chanel, Made in France. $100-$200

188 Chanel Small Camera Case, 2004-05 Stamp: Chanel, Made in France. $80-$120

203 Chanel Dress with Perfume Bottle Belt, 1980-90s Label: Chanel Boutique $600-$800

Lot 199

Lot 191

Lot 192 Lot 194

Lot 195 Lot 200 Lot 196

Lot 206

Lot 147

Lot 212 Lot 165

Lot 144

Lot 188

Lot 203

Hermés

Thierry Hermès (1801-78) began his now internationally famous house of luxury goods in 1837 in Paris, France. Hermès began by making custom, hand-made horseharnesses, which quickly became know for their superior materials and quality of construction, attracting clients such as Napolean III and Empress Eugenie. The successful company began to expand, catering to their clients’ needs, creating a variety of equestrian-related goods and accessories and in 1922, began to include luxury women’s handbags. In 1937, one hundred years after the company was formed, the silk scarf was introduced with the first designs printed on the same silk used by the company to create jockeys’ shirts. Today, eighty two years after the Hermès scarf was introduced, nearly two thousand designs have been created for the scarf by numerous artists featuring an array of designs, which remain wildly popular in retail and vintage markets.

Our auction includes 300 Hermès scarves, which were collected and carefully preserved over many decades by a small group of collectors in the US and Canada. The scarves were created by dozens of illustrators, including Kermit Oliver, Philippe Ledoux, Zoé Pauwels, Leila Menchari, Annie Faivre and Robert Dallet, amongst many others. In addition to scarves, this auction contains many Hermès handbags, such as the popular Kelly and Birkin, as well as jewelry and clothing.

Lot 519 518 Hermès 30cm Togo Birkin, 2007 Stamped: Hermès Paris. Made in France. $7,000-$8,000

519 Hermès Brown Sellier 32cm Kelly Handbag, 2001 Stamped: Hermès. Made in France. $4,000-$6,000

523 Hermès Midnight Brown Lizard Envelope Clutch, 1970s Stamp: Hermès Paris, Made in France $2,000-$4,000

524 Hermes 24cm Black Constance, 2003 Stamped: Hermes. Made in France. $1,500-$2,500

Hermés Scarves

Featuring a collection of over 300 scarves ranging in estimate from $150 – $350.

Lot 518

Lot 757

Lot 707

Lot 785

Lot 733 Lot 648

Lot 735

Lot 742

Lot 788 Lot 722

Lot 731

Lot 705 Lot 721

Lot 706

Lot 586

Lot 798 Lot 605

Renée Fleming Performance Gowns

On March 23, 2019, Lyric Opera of Chicago presented a starstudded Renée Fleming Concert & Gala to celebrate the 25th Anniversary of the soprano’s first performance with the company in 1993. Since that debut, Fleming ‘made Lyric Opera an artistic home’ and from 2010, Ms. Fleming has served as Lyric’s creative consultant. As part of this celebration, Lyric displayed performance costumes worn by Fleming throughout the theater and a selection of these costumes (and other special occasion garments also from Fleming’s personal collection) will now be auctioned. The proceeds of the auctioned dresses will benefit the Renée Fleming Foundation.

Lot 3 Metropolitan Opera 18th Century Costume, 2009 Costume worn by Renée Fleming for her role as the Marschallin in Act III of Der Rosenkavalier at the Metropolitan Opera, 2009.

Five-piece costume consisting of dress, petticoat, hoop skirt, train and hair accessory. The dress is composed of various parts, sewn together to form one piece, including bodice, over skirt and underskirt. The bodice and overskirt are made of a purple and silver lame brocade trimmed with pearls, lace and braid. The underskirt is made of grey satin and is only the front panel of the skirt, which is trimmed with gathered satin, braid, lace and sequins. These various parts are sewn together by hand and join to the petticoat and hoop skirt with large snaps. The bodice is heavily boned and closes down the center back with lacing. The petticoat is made of white quilted satin with a deep hem of gathered purple fabric and lace. The hoop skirt is made of horizontal bands of stiff boning and closes down the center back with large hooks and eyes and snaps. The train is made of grey brocade lined with purple fabric and attaches to the shoulders of the bodice with large snaps. Label: Metropolitan Opera, with ‘R. Fleming’ handwritten in ink.

Property from the Collection of Renée Fleming, New York, New York, to benefit the Renée Fleming Foundation. $3,000-$4,000

Lot 1 Christian Dior Haute Couture Dress and Shawl, 2008 In 2008, Renée Fleming was the first woman to solo headline an opening night gala of New York’s Metropolitan Opera. For the occasion, she wore four haute couture creations, including this dress by John Galliano for Christian Dior for her role as The Countess in Strauss’s Capriccio.

Annie Lebovitz photographed Fleming in all four dresses for a 2008 Vogue article called ‘La Dolce Vita’ by Hamish Bowles. In the article, Galliano is quoted as saying that Fleming’s voice, with its ‘whole timbre of colors, emotions, and tones, made me want to create something bold, vivacious, sensual, and capricious.’

John Galliano for Christian Dior black silk crepe dress with a draped design secured on the left hip with a richly embroidered panel of glass beads, gold foil and thread. Similar glass beads in a goldtone setting form thin shoulder straps. The dress is hand-sewn to a heavily boned black corset that laces up the right side seam. A long rectangular stole features an Art Deco/Egyptian-themed design using a similar embroidery to the dress. Label: Christian Dior / Haute Couture / Paris

Property from the Collection of Renée Fleming, New York, New York, to benefit the Renée Fleming Foundation. $3,000-$4,000

Photo Courtesy of Beth Bergman

Lot 12 | Christian Dior Haute Couture Dress and Shawl, 2007 Property from the Collection of Renée Fleming, New York, New York, to benefit the Renée Fleming Foundation. $1,500-$2,500

Renée Fleming wore this dress for the PBS Great Performances broadcast of Renée Fleming: Sacred Songs and Carols, which was recorded at Mainz Cathedral in Germany. Renée Fleming wore this dress and shawl in 2007 in performances in the UK, Austria and US, including the BBC Proms at London’s Royal Albert Hall, accompanied by the London Philharmonic, and at the opening night of the Los Angeles Philharmonic.

Lot 2 | Vivienne Westwood Couture Dress, 2005 Property from the Collection of Renée Fleming, New York, New York, to benefit the Renée Fleming Foundation. $1,500-$2,500

Lot 7 | Angel Sanchez Dress, 2014 Property from the Collection of Renée Fleming, New York, New York, to benefit the Renée Fleming Foundation. $500-$700

Renée Fleming wore this dress for her performance at the 2015 Richard Tucker Gala at New York’s David Geffen Hall and in the concert “Remembering Pavarotti” with Andrea Bocelli and Plácido Domingo at the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion in Los Angeles. Renée Fleming wore this dress for performances with pianist Maciej Pikulski in Vienna and Paris, and singing before HRH Prince William and the Duchess of Cambridge at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

11 | Dennis Basso Dress, 2015 Property from the Collection of Renée Fleming, New York, New York, to benefit the Renée Fleming Foundation. $500-$700

Franco Moschino (1950-94) founded his namesake luxury fashion house in Milan in 1983. Moschino is know for bold, whimsical designs that often use satire to comment on the fashion industry, current topics and trends. Following Franco’s death, Rossella Jardini was Moschino’s Creative Director from 1994 to 2013 and, since then, Jeremy Scott has led the company. This auction contains designs by all three creative directors.

Lot 354 Lot 362 354 Moschino Swimsuit $150-$250

355 Moschino Swimsuit and Wrap $200-$300

360 Moschino Swimsuit $200-$300 361 Moschino Swimsuit $150-$250

362 Moschino Swimsuit $200-$300

363 Moschino Swimsuit $200-$300

Lot 355 Lot 363 Lot 361

Lot 360

Lot 352 | Moschino ‘Shop’ Top, 1990s Label: Moschino Couture! Milano $200-$300

Lot 335 | Moschino ‘Survival Jacket’, 1991 Label: Moschino Couture! Made in Italy $1,000-$1,500 Lot 334 | Moschino ‘Life Jacket’, 1991 Label: Moschino Couture! Moschino Cruise Me Baby / Made in Italy $800-$1,000

Lot 350 | Moschino Black ‘Skeleton’ Dress, A/W 2016-17 Label: Moschino / Couture! / Milano $1,000-$1,500