14 minute read
Auction Highlights
6
Men’s Embroidered Green Ribbed Silk Waistcoat, 1830s
silk grosgrain, shawl collar with silk and metal thread floral embroidery, parchment leaves and cut metal paillettes, two front pockets, back panel in black silk with two back ties, glazed cotton lining with front covered button closure. Unlabeled $100-200
7
Jacques Doucet Sheer Lace and Cotton Blouse, 1910-20s, Haute Couture
high collar with floral lace, front button placket with left side ruffle, sleeves with alternating bands of lace and white cotton with a matching button cuff, interior sheer lining with straight waistband, center back hook and eye closure. Label: Doucet / 21. Rue De La Paix / Paris No size label $300-400
10
Edwardian Lace Jacket, 1900s
tape lace in a floral motif, s-bend silhouette and center front opening. Lined with pleated cream silk chiffon and a decorative ruffle, wide flared 3/4 sleeves. Unlabeled $200-300
18
Day Suit in Midnight Blue Velvet, 1910s
s-curve silhouette jacket and skirt in midnight blue velvet embroidered with black silk braid. The lined jacket features a front panel of white silk covered with black lace. The jacket closes down the center front with hook and eyes, while the skirt closes a center back. Unlabeled $200-300 19
Black Silk Flapper Dress, 1920s
abstract floral pattern with scoop neckline and sleeveless. The unlined dress is a pullover style with no closures and sheer black silk panels sewn into the side seams at the hem. Unlabeled $200-300 20
Hamilton & Co. Black Patterned Velvet Opera Cape, 1920s
made with black silk velvet in a floral pattern with attached tie and peplum of black silk velvet, pink lining with gathered back neckline Label: Hamilton & Co / New Haven / Paris No size label $200-300
78
Courrèges Sunglasses, 1960s
off-white plastic frames with silvertone hardware, interior marked; depose, patent PV5262. Label: Courrèges / Made in France $600-800
1930 – 1980
Clothing is often referred to as a register of social change, as the changes in history are often reflected in what we wear. From Hollywood-inspired 1930’s gowns to glamourous post-war designs by Christian Dior or the space-age creations of the 1960s, this auction documents many of the significant changes in fashion from the 1930s to the 1970s.
The end of WWII saw the rise of the American fashion designer, including notable names such as Clare McCardell, Norman Norell and James Galanos. Numerous examples from these designers are available, alongside many items by famous French designers of the period, such as Jacques Fath, Pierre Balmain and André Courrèges and lastly, the rare, Italian designs of Roberta di Camerino, amongst many others.
79
Black Evening Dress with Bustle, 1950s
V neckline with gathered shoulders that wrap to the back bodice, fitted silhouette, pleated back hip with attached bustle with hook and eye closure and bow detail, unlined with a back zip closure. Unlabeled Worn by singer and actress Lillian Cornell, (1916-2015) $80-120 82
Claire McCardell Black Cotton Sailor Dress, 1950s
round neckline with hook and eye closure, sailor collar with tie, dolman sleeves, pleated skirt with side slip pockets, unlined with a side zip closure. Label: Claire McCardell Clothes No size label $100-200 83
Jacques Fath Navy Dress, 1950s
cowl neckline with pull through detail, long sleeves with open slit and button cuff, flared skirt with two front slip pockets with skirt pleat detail, unlined with a back zip closure. Label: Jacques Fath of Paris / New York / Designs for Joseph Halpert No size label $600-700
134
A Norman Norell Black Wool Button-up Dress, 1960s
wool crepe with a stand collar, a-line skirt gathered into waistline, unlined, metal button closure down center front and at cuffs, finished with red wool crepe buttonholes. Label: Norman Norell / New York No size label $200-300 135
Norman Norell Two-Piece Gray Wool Ensemble, 1960s
jacket with a notched lapel, 3/4 length sleeves, gray lining with front doublebreasted button closure. Peated skirt, unlined with side zip and hook and eye closure. Label: Norman Norell / New York No size label $200-300 137
Galanos Sheer Cream Chiffon Pleated Gown and Belt, 1970s
embellished with clear faceted beads at high collar and cuffs. Bodice and sleeves further embellished with clear faceted beads in an abstract pattern. Dress is underlined with matching chiffon and closes at center back with a zipper and hook and eyes at collar. Matching silk satin slip with a side zip closure. Wide self-tie belt of top-stitched satin and white leather. Label: Galanos No size label $400-500
139
Balmain Boutique Pink, White and Orange Silk Print Caftan, 1960-70s
printed Thai silk with pink Thai silk trim, kimono sleeves, interior white lining with a back zip closure. Label: Boutique / Balmain / Paris; Thai Silk 100% / Made in Thailand / Dry Clean Only No size label $200-300 142
Roberta di Camerino One Shoulder Dress, 1977
pull-over white polyester jersey printed with a black, red and cream design, unlined, ankle length. Label: Roberta di Camerino / Made in Italy Size label: 42 $200-300 162
Balenciaga Blue Silk Print Dress, 1980s
blue silk with black abstract print, attached self-fabric collar with long ends to form tie and center front buttons. Padded black silk around top of sleeve with a buttoned cuff. Dress is unlined with an elastic band in a casing around waist. Label: Balenciaga / Paris / 38; Made in France; 100% silk Size label: 38 $100-200
1980 – Today
The greatest number of items in this auction are from the last forty years of fashion, including many luxury accessories from Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Hermès and Judith Leiber. Numerous designs document the arrival of the Japanese designers into high fashion and haute couture, with rare, museum-quality designs by Rei Kawakubo, Issey Miyake, Junya Watanabe and Yohji Yamamoto.
A large collection of mostly unworn couture designs by Versace are available in this auction, including Atelier Versace pieces from 1993 to 2006. This collection is made of day and evening wear, ensembles and separates, including shoes, hats, belts and gloves. A close inspection of the details reveals that most garments are finished by hand, including the linings and embroidery. This range of material documents the transition in the company from mid-1990’s designs by Gianni Versace to his sister Donatella’s artistic direction from 1997.
168
Junya Watanabe / Comme des Garçons Gray Wool Balloon Dress, F/W 2008
wool jersey, round neckline, long sleeves reattach to the lower skirt creating a circle with an opening to expose the hand, banded balloon hem, unlined with a diagonal back zip closure. Unworn with original retail labels Label: Junya Watanabe / Comme des Garçons; Made in Japan Size label: small $300-400 169
Rare Comme des Garçons Early Knit Sweater, 1983-84
pull-over sweater with the front panel of a heavyweight cream wool knit and the back in a matching woven wool. Top of the knitted front folds over with an opening in the knit for a long hanging panel, each side hem is closed with slits for arms, unlined. Label: Tricot / Comme des Garçons; Made in Japan No size label $3,500-4,500 170
Junya Watanabe Two-Piece Ensemble, 2006
consisting of a turtleneck sweater in green, black and brown knit. Together with a green deconstructed cotton skirt with one left hip front flap pocket with snap button closure, one right hip front flap pocket, one back front flap pocket with snap button closure, unlined with a front zip and button closure. Label: Junya Watanabe / Comme des Garçons; Made in Japan Size label: medium $400-500
198
Chanel Multi-Strand Globe and CC Charm Necklace or Belt, 2013
Stamp: Chanel Length: 20” $400-600 203
Chanel Pink Lucite Maltese Cross Wide Cuff Bracelet, 2013
Stamp: Chanel / Made in Italy Width: 2” $500-700
204
A Chanel Black Resin and Rhinestone Cuff, 2009
Label: Chanel / Made in Italy Width: 2.25” $400-600
205
Stamp: Chanel, Made in Italy Width: 2” $400-600
209
Stamp: Chanel 12” L x 3.5” W x 8.25” H; Strap drop: 13”- 23.5” $7,000-9,000
210
Stamp: Chanel 8” L x 2” W x 5” H; Strap drop: 21”- 11.5” $3,000-4,000 211
A Chanel Shagreen and Tan Leather Medium Boy Bag, 2012
Stamp: Chanel 10” L x 2.5” W x 6” H; Strap drop: 11.5”- 21” $1,800-2,800
212
Chanel Blue Alligator Mini Flap Bag, 2013-14
Stamp: Chanel 8” L x 2” W x 5” H; Strap drop: 23” $3,000-4,000
292
Hermès 90cm Silk Scarf
“Musee” pattern, designed by Philippe Ledoux. Labeled within the print: Hermès 36” x 36” $150-200
293
Hermès 90cm Silk Scarf
“Cendrillon” pattern, designed by Karin Swildens. Labeled within the print: Hermès 36” x 36” $150-200 300
Stamp: Hermès 11” L x 4.5” W x 8” H; Strap drop: 3.5” $8,000-10,000
301
An Hermès Blue Clemence Evelyne III GM Handbag, 2012
Stamp: Hermès, Made in France 13” L x 4” W x 12” H; Strap drop: 19”- 27” $1,000-2,000
302
Hermès Gold Togo Sellier 28cm Kelly Handbag, 1998
Stamp: Hermès 11” L x 4.5” W x 8” H $6,000-7,000
327
Judith Leiber Collector’s Edition Lion Minaudiere
goldtone hardware, grey, orange and tan crystals, small black hard stone eyes, push button closure, interior gold lining with drop-in or removable chain shoulder strap. Together with dustbag and box. Stamp: Judith Leiber New York / Collector’s Edition / Made in Italy 5” L x 2” W x 6.75” H; Strap drop: 7.25” $300-400 328
goldtone hardware, blue, green, red and clear crystals, small black hard stone eyes, push button closure, goldtone lining with a drop-in or removable chain shoulder strap. Together with a goldtone mirror, dustbag and box. Stamp: Judith Leiber New York / Collector’s Edition / Made in Italy 4” L x 5” W x 7.75” H; Strap drop: 5” $300-400
329
A Judith Leiber Limited Edition Red Foo Dog Minaudiere
goldtone hardware, red and gold crystals, gold interior lining, a push button closure with a drop-in or removable chain shoulder strap. Together with a goldtone mirror, dustbag and box. Stamp: Judith Leiber New York / Limited Edition / Made in Italy 6” L x 3.75” W x 4” H; Strap drop: 24” $300-400 330
goldtone hardware, black, blue, green, and purple crystals, black hard stone eyes, goldtone crown push clasp closure, gold interior lining with a drop-in or removable chain shoulder strap. Together with a goldtone mirror and comb, dustbag, and box. Stamp: Judith Leiber New York / Collector’s Edition / Made in Italy 7” L x 5” W x 5” H; Strap drop: 9.5” $300-400
VERSACE
This Spring Fashion auction features a rare collection of mostly unworn couture and luxury accessories by Versace from 1993-2006, including the selection of items featured here. When Leslie Hindman Auctioneers was offered this collection, many of the items had never been opened and were in boxes postmarked from Italy. The 80 lots of material include daywear, formal evening gowns, ensembles and accessories, which document the transition in the company from designs by Gianni Versace to his sister Donatella’s artistic direction.
502
Atelier Versace mules with three inch heels; black mesh with decorative black braid trim, satin heel. Handbag with goldtone hardware, black mesh with decorative black braid trim, center medusa medallion, with a top zip closure and a double greco chain shoulder strap. Handbag label: Gianni Versace Couture / Made in Italy Shoe label: Atelier Versace / Made in Italy 9.75” L x 3” W x 6.25” H; Strap drop: 18.5”. Shoe size: 38 $200-300 503
black leather trim with black plastic mesh, embellished with black and yellow braid trim, goldtone hardware, narrow front flap with magnetic snap closure with medusa medallions on front and back with black leather shoulder straps with decorative goldtone and black rhinestone sliders. Label: Gianni Versace Couture / Made in Italy 11.75” L x 2” W x 10.5” H; Strap drop: 14” $200-300
519
Atelier Versace Black Sheer Embroidered Gown, 1993
fitted sheer silhouette, bustier top with emboidered floral motif, top stitched shoulder straps, bodice micro length; embroidered with gimp, ribbon, and velvet squares in a floral and geometric motif, layer skirt; top layer of asymmetric panels of net lace drapping from bodice and a straight under layer of black threaded bead netting, bustier with bra padding and bodice lined in sheer black with a back zip closure. Label: Atelier Versace No size label $1,000-1,200 520
Atelier Versace Two-Piece Animal Print Ensemble, S/S 1992
consisting of a spaghetti strap dress, V neckline with a-line skirt, empire waist embellished with small goldtone medallions, black and goldtone beads, goldtone semicurl paillettes and black and gold lame trim down front and back of dress, lined in black with a hidden side zip closure. Matching jacket, double breasted with flare skirt, gold lame lace shawl lapel, ruffle frill cuffs, lined in cream and black animal print. Label: Atelier Versace No size label $800-1,000
Note: Bag is Lot 483 521
Atelier Versace Tie-Dyed Purple Velvet and Lace Gown, S/S 1994
V neckline with right velvet shoulder strap, left velvet spaghetti strap, fitted and flare silhouette, asymmetric lace across the left bodice with silk crepe and lace drapping; matching asymmetric lace with silk crepe and lace across the back right, lined in light purple with an inner bodice, and a hidden side zip closure. Label: Atelier Versace No size label $1,000-1,200
Natalie Cole
Leslie Hindman Auctioneers is honored to offer a collection of clothing worn by American singer, songwriter and actress Natalie Cole (1950-2015). The collection includes 46 custom-made evening gowns, stage and performance ensembles, accessories and high fashion designs by Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood. These show-stopping designs span over two decades of the artsist’s career from a dress worn in 1993 to the 7th Annual Soul Train Awards where Cole sang with Patti Labelle and Luther Vandross, to a dress worn for a performance in Los Angeles in 2015.
598
the first; gold and red, the second; green and bronze, the third; silver and pink, each bustier is heavily boned and embellished with rhinestones and beads, embellished straps secure with heavy-duty hook and eye closure at back, side hook and eye and zip closure. Label: J & M Costumers Hollywood Gold and Red Label: Natalie No size label Property from the Estate of Robert Yancy, inherited from his mother, Natalie Cole $200-300
604
Jovani Couture Black Sheer Lace Beaded Illusion Halter Gown
fitted and flared silhouette, heavily beaded with faceted geometric beads at the neckline, long sleeve cuffs and skirt, interior tan lining, open back with a hook and eye closure at neckline and a zip closure at skirt. Worn by Natalie Cole Label: Jovani Couture No size label Property from the Estate of Robert Yancy, inherited from his mother, Natalie Cole $300-400 605
Jovani Peach Tan Lace Strapless Illusion Mermaid Gown
tan lace embroidered with red floral beaded appliques, sweet heart neckline, tan lining on bust and skirt with a center back zip closure. Worn by Natalie Cole Label: Jovani Size label: 6 Property from the Estate of Robert Yancy, inherited from his mother, Natalie Cole $300-400 606
black sheer pleated bodice with slit neckline and lace bead applique, skirt with tulle flower embroidery, interior bodice with peach tan lining and layered tulle underskirt with a back zip closure. Worn by Natalie Cole Label: Jovani Size label: 6 Property from the Estate of Robert Yancy, inherited from his mother, Natalie Cole $100-200
