HIKE ROCKY Magazine

HIKE ROCKY magazine

Vol. I, Issue I December, 2020

a publication of

HIKE ROCKY Welcome to Hike Rocky, the new magazine devoted to hiking the trails of Rocky Mountain Na onal Park, wri en by the people who hike them.

We love ge ng on the trails in Rocky! And, we know you do too! We hope to share with you what makes Rocky an amazing place through our stories of how we experience them. We will bring you features that include news, beau ful photos, trail descrip ons, and especially features from the Park on a variety of topics that will enrich your trail experience.

What a year to start a magazine about hiking in the Park. Not only will 2020 be remembered for Covid-19 that closed Rocky for weeks in the spring, but also for the Cameron Peak and the East Troublesome fires, the largest and second largest fires in Colorado’s history, that closed Rocky for weeks in the fall. Neither fire originated in the Park, but strong winds blew fire into and affected large areas of the Park, as well as neighboring communi es. These fires remind us that the Park is more than a place to recreate and meditate.

It is also an ecological preserve, where we see the forces of nature have its effect.

I love the an cipa on as I shoulder my daypack at the trail head. All of my senses are awake wandering through the woods and around each bend in the trail.

There’s a sense of sa sfac on when I reach my des na on. There are mes when, in those moments, I will yank my hiking boots and s nky socks off and slide my red feet into the wildly cold mountain stream water. My breath is taken away and I feel immediately rejuvenated. I hope we can bring you this experience through our magazine.

Dave Rusk, Publisher

A black bear curiously takes a look around in late fall of this year.

Cover photo: A lone bull elk bugles while res ng in a field in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park.

Both photos by ©Sherrie Duris, Estes Park wildlife photographer. www.sherrieduris.com

HIKE ROCKY Magazine is a publication of Barefoot Enterprises, LLC, and RockyMountainDayHikes.com, Estes Park, Colorado.

HikeRockyMagazine@gmail.com Volume 1, Issue 1, December 15, 2020 Copyright 2020, all rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without prior written permission is prohibited.

Publisher: Dave Rusk Managing Editor: Barb Boyer Buck Contributors to the December, 2020 edition: Scott Rashid, Marlene M. Borneman, Barb Boyer Buck, Melissa Strong, Dave Rusk, Sherrie Duris, Murray Selleck, Nancy Wilson

a note from the managing editor I hope you enjoy this ďŹ rst edi on of HIKE ROCKY Magazine, a labor of love put together by long- me residents of Estes Park who appreciate the na onal treasure in our backyard, Rocky Mountain Na onal Park. We are presen ng this ďŹ rst issue free of charge as a holiday gi to our online community; in January, a subscrip on will be required to access this content.

call for submissions Here at HIKE ROCKY, we welcome (and pay for) quality content from contribu ng writers and photographers!

Each month, we will feature armchair travel, historical , and ecological pieces, stunning photographs, news, analysis and hiking advice for beginners and the more advanced hiker.

Anyone who is interested in submi ng may send a story idea and three wri ng samples and/or photographs to:

HikeRockyMagazine@gmail.com to be considered for publica on. These pieces must feature Rocky Mountain Na onal Park in some way and be designed to further the understanding and/or apprecia on of this amazing na onal park.

HIKE ROCKY seeks to provide seasonal and per nent informa on for those who love Rocky as much as we do. Publica on date is on the 15th of each month, and to be considered for inclusion, submissions must be received by the end of the previous month.

We see this magazine as an online community endeavor and seek engagement from those who truly appreciate and understand Rocky.

cover photo contest Each month, we will feature a cover photo from a photographer who lives and breathes Rocky Mountain Na onal Park. Photo submissions must be received by the end of the month (in this case, Dec. 31) to be judged. The photo must have been taken in Rocky, not previously published (except for social media), and be seasonal.

The winner will receive a cash prize, free access to the edi on that features his or her photo, and online promo on.

Thank you for your interest in HIKE ROCKY, and I hope to see all of you back next month!

Barb Boyer Buck, managing editor

table of contents

click on any of the links below to be taken straight to the story

RMNP UPDATES

Pestilence & re plague RMNP in 2020 by Barb Boyer Buck

HIKING in ROCKY A hike to Timber Lake by Dave Rusk Feature photo: BITTERSWEET by Marlene Borneman Where Leave-No-Trace is law by Murray Selleck Trails of the Month: In Memoriam by Dave Rusk

FEATURES

Lessons from Colorado’s biggest and wildest res, part one

by Barb Boyer Buck The owls of Rocky Mountain National Park by Scott Rashid Seasons of wildowers by Marlene Borneman Climb a rock in Rocky by Melissa Strong The Rocky Mountain Conservancy by Nancy Wilson

Coming next month in HIKE ROCKY

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Pestilence and re plague RMNP in 2020

photo of Moraine Park fire damage taken by Dave Rusk on Nov. 2 From RMNP Press Releases

by Barb Boyer Buck, Managing Editor A global pandemic and record-se ng wildfires conspired to make 2020 a difficult year in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park.

As of the end of October, 2020, recrea onal visita on was about 32 percent below 2019 numbers. This was due in no small part to a new med-entry reserva on system to mi gate for COVID19, a er a more than twomonth closure of the Park to all visitors.

This ini al closure occurred on March 20 and was the result of a plea to the na on's Secretary of the Interior, David Bernhardt, by the then-Town of Estes Park mayor, Todd Jirsa.

"A con nued influx of visitors at this cri cal me presents a grave public health concern to Estes Park and our surrounding communi es," stated Jirsa in his le er. "We have an older, high-risk popula on with

many re rees and limited cri cal resources."

Park officials agreed that nearly 80 percent of RMNP's 4.67 million visitors in 2019 entered via Estes Park, a small community with only 23 hospital beds at the local medical center.

A li le more than two months later, Rocky reopened and the med-entry reserva on system was implemented on June 4.

Reserva ons were required to enter RMNP between 6 a.m. and 5 p.m., designed to limit vehicles to numbers not recorded for more than 20 years. Daily visita on before and a er the reserva on period was not regulated. The med-entry system was in place un l October 13, 2020.

Not even 10 days later, Rocky was completely closed again when the two biggest wildfires in Colorado history breached the Park's boundaries. The East Troublesome Fire began in Grand County on October 14 and quickly moved into the west side of RMNP. On Oct. 21, the fire ran 18 miles east and spo ed over the

Con nental Divide, breaching 1.5 miles of tundra.

Then, it burned into two dis nct areas on the east side of the Park, extending down to Moraine Park and Upper Beaver Meadows.

RMNP was closed again just prior to the evacua on of the en re town of Estes Park and the surrounding communi es, October 22-24. The closure was in place un l Nov. 6 when some of the east side of the park was reopened. Addi onal sec ons of Rocky were reopened as soon as they could be safely done so.

Very dry and windy condi ons fueled these two fires (and several others in Northern Colorado which burned 22,668 acres within the Park's boundaries.

That's nine percent of the Park's land destroyed or damaged by fire, including several historic structures such as the Fern Lake Lodge, built in 1925.

RMNP photo: The Thompson Zone of the East Troublesome Fire burns in Beaver Meadows on Oct. 22

A Burned Area Emergency Response (BAER team, was deployed to Rocky in November to assess post-fire impacts from both fires. The team consisted of specialists in hydrology, soil science, archeology, wildlife biology, botany, roads, and trails.

The BAER team recommended some emergency stabiliza on treatments or other ac ons in their assessment report.

“This is one step toward recovery,” said RMNP. Here at Rocky Mountain Day Hikes, we archive all of Rocky Mountain Na onal Park’s press releases. This is to provide a historical record of the Park's events in an easy-to-access way. We began this prac ce just prior to RMNP's announcement of its first closure, in late March.

RMNP photo: The Grand Lake Entrance Sta on Office was completely destroyed by the East Troublesome Fire on Oct. 21

We offer this archive as a convenient resource for research of public informa on to everyone free of charge, but ask that you provide the proper a ribu ons and/or share these pieces via the social media links provided.

Visitors form a socially-distant line for the shu le at Glacier Gorge, just a er RMNP in June, just a er the Park reopened. Ridership on the shu les was reduced per trip, to help mi gate for COVID19.

Photo by Dave Rusk

A hike to Timber Lake The author rests at Timber Lake, the des na on a er an “arduous” diversion

Story and photos by Dave Rusk “Arduous” was the word that got my a en on. Such an interes ng word choice the Na onal Park Service chose to describe a temporary diversion trail around a naturally occurring, slow-moving landslide that crossed the trail to Timber Lake.

And yet, a er having climbed the flag-marked trail that takes hikers up one side of the landslide, and then down the other side back to the trail, that was without a doubt the perfect word to use - it was difficult and ring.

However, with the excep on of the arduous but brief diversion, the approximately 5-mile trail to Timber Lake is a really enjoyable trail that takes you through montane and subalpine ecosystems before reaching Timber Lake at treeline.

The trailhead parking lot is on the west side of the Park, right at the bo om of Trail Ridge Road, across from the Colorado River trailhead.

The trail slowly climbs south through lodgepole pines and parallels the upper Kawueneeche Valley road before eventually turning southeastwardly, crossing the southwest slope of Jackstraw Mtn. For a while you travel quitely through lodgepole pine, steadily gaining eleva on. It’s along this stretch I encountered the arduous detour.

Elephanthead wildflower

Once past the detour, the trail begins to parallel Timber Creek. A er stopping along the way to photograph a patch of Heartleaf Arnica, I traveled easily along this part of the trail as it stays fairly level while Timber Creek rises to eventually meet the trail. The trail then gains some quick eleva on away from Timber Creek, before leveling off again, skir ng around several small woodland meadows filled with elephanthead wildflowers. The flowers were at peak bloom and I dove into a patch with my camera, gingerly moving around the flowers and leaving as li le trace of my presence as possible.

Li le Red Elephantheads (Pedicularis groenlandica are members of the figwort family. Figwort plants at one me were used to treat hemorrhoids, which at the me were called figs. Wort is an Old English term meaning plant. The genus name for Li le Red Elephantheads, Pedicularis, is La n for louse and it was believed these type of plants were good for trea ng lice. So if you have hemorrhoids and lice, this might be your plant.

Apart from its remarkable medicinal value, this is one unique looking flower. The tall spikes will have dozens of pink to red flowers. The galea, or the top of the flower is hooded to look like the forehead of an elephant and the beak of the galea extends out and curves upward to give the appearance of an elephant's trunk. To complete the look, the le and right petals look like large, floppy elephant ears.

Elephantheads like their feet wet so the ground where these plants grow is usually marshy; if you try to march through a patch of elephantheads, you will more than likely end up with wet boots. It’s best to go around. You are also likely to find mosquitoes in the area, so it’s probably not the best place for lunch, either.

Falls above Timber Lake

I was completely immersed in this pool of elephantheads now, very engaged and oblivious to anything else. Entranced by these spectacular wildflowers, I work hard to capture their beauty.

Carefully stepping, I bent and crouched trying different angles, then a empted to hold some awkward pose as s ll as possible, making myself be calm while I captured the shot.

Once done, I released the pose with a deep outward breath, then worked another angle, another pose.

A er a while, I broke my concentra on and stood straight, looking around. Finding another spot, I balleted over to

Elephanthead wildflowers prefer marshy ground.

The hiking party approaches Timber Lake.

it and started again. Finally sa sfied that I’ve worked the patch, I navigated my way back to the trail. A feeling of contentment came over me as I walk on.

I take on another rise in the trail before exi ng the woods into an open clearing. With views of the western tundra slope of Mt Ida gree ng me, I knew I’d entered the world of the subalpine. I crossed the clearing and reentered the woods for one last climb into the upper hanging valley that holds Timber Lake and several smaller ponds.

There are several large rock spots that serve nicely for lunch spots in the sun. I decided to pick my way across the marshy outlet stream and find a spot where I could sit and consider a route that might take me up to Mt Ida, if I were going there. Many wildflowers are found around the lake including Globeflower and Mountain Laurel. A li le explora on eventually lead to the upper ponds and I paused for a moment to take in the surroundings, looking across Timber Lake now at Jackstraw Mtn. On the return, I followed the series of waterfalls that connected the upper hanging valley with the open meadow below. The area around the upper falls was thick with chest-high Bi er Cress, blooming white flowers, mixed with occasional blue chiming bells. Once again, I worked the camera but I found the photography challenging. I began to be concerned about how these photos would turn out. Was the light too harsh, was the focus correct? In these moments of doubt, my mind wandered and I began to wonder why I bother with taking so much me to photograph.

At one point, I just stopped, pulled the camera down

the eyes, but for all the senses. The sound of the falls, the smells of the lush vegeta on, this place. The incredible richness that returns here every year, for centuries. And it wasn’t here just for my admira on.

This was pure nature, doing what it does best: crea ng life with so much grace and beauty, all on its own. I took note.

Finding these places, finding myself straddling a mountain stream to capture the beauty, finding myself taking in all of the wonderment, I realized this is why I photograph. When I hike, I am always looking for the shot, but I’m really just paying close a en on to my surroundings, no cing the ecology of nature. What birds am I seeing, where do I find certain plants blooming, how is the stream cu ng across the meadow. I am looking for pa erns and purpose. I am constantly impressed with how well nature takes care of itself.

I followed the string of waterfalls down the hillside, carefully picking my way. Once back on the trail, I paused for a moment looked back at where I've come from. Then I turned and headed down the trail, looking for the next photograph.

Dave Rusk has been sauntering and taking photographs through Rocky Mountain Na onal Park for decades.

He is the author publisher of Rocky Mountain Day Hikes, a book of 24 hikes in Rocky, and the website of the same name. He is the publisher of HIKE ROCKY Magazine and an important content contributor to all of these endeavors.

FEATURE PHOTO BITTERSWEET

by Marlene Borneman

Fire is an important part of the ecosystem in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park. It helps to clear the understory and nourishes the soil with valuable micro-nutrients. One of the first flowers to reappear a er a fire is bright-pink fireweed. Here, fireweed and red paintbrush fill in burned areas of Cub Lake and the Pool a er the 2012 fires. Read “Bi ersweet” by Marlene Borneman on our website. Can you find the insects in this photo? Let us know what kind and where they are!

Where Leave-No-Trace is law Photos and story by Murray Selleck In my younger days I hiked, climbed, skied, and explored many Na onal Parks including North Cascades, Glacier, Olympic, Yellowstone, Crater Lake, the Grand Canyon, and of course, Rocky Mountain Na onal Park.

But over the years seeing video of long lines of cars bumper-to-bumper to view elk wore me down. I'd read about far too many incidents of people approaching wildlife believing the Na onal Parks are nothing but pe ng zoos and that had me scratching my head.

And, a few years ago, Na onal Park rangers in Yellowstone had to wear face masks not because of COVID but to protect themselves from snowmobile emissions. I let myself believe the parks had become too crazy for me.

snails paced Winnebagos touring Na onal Park roads?

Well, it turns out, I do.

Recently I was able to reconnect with a life-long friend for a backpacking trip in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park that included some big day hikes. RMNP was the perfect half-way point for us to meet.

For decades I had decided that the only outdoor experience I wanted was in our Na onal Forests and Wilderness Areas. I had let myself believe there was too much of a theme park atmosphere to the Na onal Parks and I wanted nothing to do with it.

We met in Grand Lake on the west side of RMNP and made our way to the Lake Verna Trailhead. As expected, the parking lot was packed. As we began our hike there were lots of folks on the trail. It was busy.

Who needs the long lines, the crowded parking lots, the

Thankfully, a not-so-curious thing happened as we

made our way deeper inside the park. There were less and less hikers as our mileage increased un l we were the only ones. Once the sun began its early autumn descent it felt like we had the en re park to ourselves.

The beauty of Rocky Mountain Na onal Park on this Autumn day was overwhelming. I had forgo en. The shock of the big mountains in front of me was stunning.

All that night a nearby elk bugled his desires. He was so close it seemed like I could feel the origin and vibra on of those bugles from deep within his chest. Sleep was nonexistent but if there ever was a good reason to loose eight or nine hours of shut-eye, this was it.

The next morning was cold. A so steam was rising from the compara vely warm East Inlet Creek. In the meadow in front of us tall crisp grasses held a sparkling frost highlighted from a slow-warming sun.

Coffee, breakfast, and it became me to hike. Our pace was quick because the trail was built with prac cally all obstacles removed from our way.

There were rocks placed for quick hopscotch creek

crossings and op onal high-water bridges. Heavy blocks of stone carved, drilled, and carried into place crea ng massive stairways took all the burden out of gaining eleva on. We laughed and joked about these engineered trails but slowly a thought was forming.

In all my exploring in our Na onal Forests and Wilderness areas I've witnessed far too many switchback trails cut by hikers causing erosion. I've dismantled countless fire rings le by less-than-caring users. I've seen a single path become three, four, or five parallel trails from hikers not willing to get their feet wet from spring runoff. I've picked up too much trash le behind in hun ng camps. O en I've seen li le trace of the Leave-No-Trace Ethic.

And here, I realized, is where RMNP excels. With these trails built to last, there is no reason to take a shortcut.

With the designated camping areas assigned by a permit system our impact is isolated allowing a vast ecosystem to remain untrammeled and beau ful.

The rest of that day was filled with the sights of four bald eagles soaring over high alpine lakes, a bull moose

in such beau ful scenery even Walt Disney couldn't have conceived it. The sound of mountain water and wisping wind coursing through spruce and pine boughs and bri le late season grasses.

Who needs a park system of permits and registra ons? Who needs to be pa ent with long lines and moments of isolated over-crowding?

I do. And I am grateful that our country established one of its best ideas ever... The Na onal Parks and, in par cular, Rocky Mountain Na onal Park.

Wildfire or not… I'm back!

Murray Selleck moved to Colorado in 1978. In the early 80’s he split his me working winter’s in a ski shop in Steamboat Springs and his summers guiding on the Arkansas River.

His career in the specialty outdoor industry has con nued for over 30 years. Needless to say, he has witnessed decades of change in outdoor equipment and clothing. Steamboat Springs con nues to be home.

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TRAILS OF THE MONTH

In Memoriam The Big Meadow on the Tonahutu Creek Trail.

Remembering the trails in Rocky most recently touched by fire photos and story by Dave Rusk The TRAIL OF THE MONTH will be a regular feature in the monthly HIKE ROCKY Magazine. Each issue we will feature some of the best hikes to take in Rocky, depending on the season and weather developments.

But this month, we remember a few of the trails that have been altered drama cally by the fires of 2020. It’s still too early to know exactly just how much fire damage there are to these trails, but here’s a look back on a selection of them.

The East Side Beaver Mtn Loop Fern Lake Trail The Pool

Fern Falls The Pool-Cub Lake Loop Fern Lake Spruce Lake Loomis Lake

The West Side Tonohutu Creek Trail Big Meadow Granite Falls Haynach Lakes Sprague Pass North Inlet Cascade Falls

Watch the Cameron Peak Fire team visit the Fern Lake Trail on Nov. 3, 2020:

Beaver Mountain Loop Though this is not a commonly-hiked trail, it is an excellent loop hike which affords a variety of good views, including of the recently burned areas of Moraine Park and Upper Beaver Meadows.

Upper Beaver Meadows before the East Troublesome fire.

Trailhead: Upper Beaver Meadows Beginning Eleva on: 8,440' Des na on Eleva on: 10,491' Total Eleva on Gain: 2,051' Total Roundtrip Miles: 4.6 COMPLETE TRAIL PROFILE The upper Big Thompson River flowing out of the Fern Lake Trail into Moraine Park, before the East Troublesome fire.

Beaver Mountain Loop GPSmyhike

A fire scar from a 2012 fire above Cub Lake as seen from the Beaver Mountain Loop. Photos taken in 2015.

Fern Lake Trail The Fern Lake trail includes several popular moderate hikes, including The Pool, Fern Falls, Fern Lake, and The Pool/Cub Lake Loop. The trail had already been impacted by the 2012 fire, but not too much. It appears the 2020 fire has had a much bigger effect, including the destruc on of the historic Fern Lake Patrol Cabin. All photos from 2017.

Fern Lake

Trailhead: Fern Lake Trailhead Eleva on: 8,155' Des na on Eleva on: 9,527' Total Eleva on Gain: 1,372' Total Roundtrip Miles: 7.6 Cub Lake as seen from Beaver Mountain, with 2012 fire scars.

COMPLETE TRAIL PROFILE

Fern Lake GPSmyhike

Fern Falls

Fern Lake Trail

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The Tonahutu Creek Trail This past summer, I was glad to complete a through-hike star ng at Bear Lake on the east side and ending up at the Green Mtn TH on the west side. A er cruising across the tundra to Sprague Pass, the trail drops down into the Tonahutu Creek drainage, the very spot where the East Troublesome Fire crossed the Con nental Divide. This stretch of trail is a part of the Con nental Divide Trail system that travels through the Na onal Park. The Tonahutu Creek Trail goes by The Big Meadow, Granite Falls and up to the Haynach Lakes alpine basin. The trail had already been impacted by fire some me in the last decade.

Sprague Pass on the Tonahutu Trail, where the East Troublesome Fire jumped the Con nental Divide.

Just below treeline on the Tonahutu Trail, near Sprague Pass.

Heart-shaped arnica among a previous fire scar on the Tonahutu Trail.

Old fire scars on the Tonahutu Creek Trail.

This pocketsized book is perfect for checking out 24 popular hikes within Rocky Mountain Na onal Park.

Get your copy here!

Lessons learned from Colorado’s biggest, wildest res

The East Troublesome Fire ran through the Coyote and Kawuneeche Valleys on the west side of Rocky at a rate of 1,000 acres per hour, beginning on Oct. 20 RMNP photo

Part one: my interview with Bill Gabbert, of Wildfire Today and Fire Avia on

by Barb Boyer Buck Like others, I was shocked nearly 30,000 acres of Rocky Mountain Na onal Park burned in a single season, more than in any other in its 105-year history. This loss for those who find solace and build lifeforce in the wilderness is painful. It's difficult not to have deep feelings about the events that ravaged through the west side of RMNP and spo ed over the Con nental Divide, evacuated the en re popula ons of Grand Lake and the Estes Valley, and complicated COVID19 suscep bility by crea ng hazardous air quality.

Especially since I was si ng in the middle of it.

The Cameron Peak Fire started in the Arapaho and Roosevelt Na onal Forests, less than 100 miles north of Estes Park near Red Feather Lakes, on August 13, 2020.

The Pine Gulch Fire, which started with a lightning strike earlier in the year 18 miles north of Grand Junc on, had already burned more than 137,000 acres by then. Pine Gulch was declared the largest wildfire in Colorado's history un l this fire grew much larger.

This Cameron Peak fire burned 208,913 acres, and containment was not achieved un l early this month.

This fire moved into the northwest boundaries of Rocky during the second week of October and several trail and road closures within the Park's boundaries were the result.

On October 14, the East Troublesome Fire ignited north of Hot Sulphur Springs, west of the Con nental Divide.

High winds ran the fire uncontrollably more than 100,000 acres between October 20-23, pushing 18 miles into the west boundary of Rocky on the first day.

Grand County Sheriff Bre Schroetlin reported this fire intensity and rapid growth as “unheard of. This is the worst of the worst of the worst,” he said, in an interview with NPR. Near the end of this four-day period, the East Troublesome fire spo ed in two places, jumping a mile and a half of tundra on the Con nental Divide, on the east side of the Park. This satellite fire was named the Thompson Zone, and has burned more than 4,346 acres of forested hillsides and meadows in Moraine Park and Upper Beaver Meadows within the boundaries of Rocky. The East Troublesome Fire, including the Thompson Zone was fully contained by the beginning of December.

To put some of this in perspec ve, I consulted with Bill Gabbert of Wildfire Today and Fire Avia on, two websites dedicated to presen ng news and opinions on wildfire-figh ng opera ons and policies.

Gabbert was a wildland fire fighter for the US Forest Service and the Na onal Park Service. He was on Hotshot and engine crews in southern California for 20 years, followed by a posi on as a fire management

Evacua ons of Estes Park began on Oct. 22 under midday dark skies, Inciweb photo

Mass evacua ons for the Town of Estes Park began on October 22, when the two leading edges of fire from the Cameron Peak and the Thompson Zone/East Troublesome fires had grown to within five miles from the north and west sides of town. The en re Estes Valley was on mandatory evacua on orders by the morning of Saturday, Oct. 24. Highways 36 and 34 were closed to incoming traffic; all of the businesses were closed. Visitors were not welcome.

This has never before happened in this community which is supported nearly en rely by tourism, not even during the 2013, 1,000-year flood.

The Cameron Peak fire burns near Glen Haven, as seen from my deck on October 16. Photo by Barb Boyer Buck

These fires consumed more land in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park than in any other incident or combina on of incidents since its establishment in 1915.

Nine percent of the 415-square-mile Rocky was burned, which is an area almost as large as the City of Denver.

Decimated trees on Trail Ridge Road on Oct. 23. Larimer County Sheriff photo.

officer for NPS, in charge of fire management for seven na onal park units in the greater Black Hills area of Wyoming, South Dakota, and Nebraska.

“Those fires were burning under unusual condi ons,” Gabbert said about the Cameron Peak and East Troublesome fires in an interview on Nov. 2. “That part of Colorado has been in extreme or excep onal drought this summer. Especially under extremely windy condi ons, which those fires were burning under part of the me, there is no way to stop them.”

InciWeb is an interagency all-risk incident informa on management system, available online at h ps://inciweb.nwcg.gov/ The service was developed to provide the public wiht a single source of incident-related informa on and provide a standard repor ng tool for the public affairs community.

Gabbert's remarks on the condi ons that existed were confirmed by InciWeb's report on the East Troublesome Fire.

“The fire was fueled by wide-spread drought, numerous

“The re was fueled by wide-spread drought, numerous dead and down beetle-killed trees, red ag weather conditions created by high winds and dry conditions, and poor humidity recovery overnight.” - Inciweb dead and down beetle-killed trees, red flag weather condi ons created by high winds and dry condi ons, and poor humidity recovery overnight. The combina on of these factors led to unprecedented, wind-driven, ac ve fire behavior with rapid spread during the overnight hours,” reported InciWeb. “During this period the area north of US Highway 40 from near Granby and extending eastward to Grand Lake and Estes Park had over 7,000 structures threatened, and a popula on of over 35,000 placed under a mandatory evacua on.”

“Under those condi ons you can't put firefighters out in front of the fire.,” Gabbert said. “It's less intense on the sides, on the flanks of the fire. The only thing firefighters can do is back off. They just have to wait un l the weather changes or the fuel changes.”

Fully ou i ed to fight fires at high eleva ons, the crews

Spruce Canyon on Oct. 22. RMNP photo.

that ba led these fires are truly tac cal athletes, said Gabbert. “At that eleva on it's difficult for firefighters, they have to be in extreme physical shape,” he said.

Thus, teams are switched out every two weeks.

“A er dozens of fatali es on wildland fire, inves ga ons have found that when fire fighters work 14 days plus two days for travel, it's much safer,” he said. Transi ons between the teams take at least 24 hours he said, and local and volunteer teams are added to the management teams brought in by federal agencies. Because the first priority is always human life when figh ng wildfire, followed closely by the protec on of developed lands and livestock, these fire crews recommended various evacua ons in associa on with the Cameron Peak and East Troublesome fires, Gabbert said, but local law enforcement agencies were the ones to make the make the final decisions.

Sheriff Schroetlin in Grand County and Larimer County Sheriff Jus n Smith ordered these evacua ons in me for residents and visitors to get clear of the fires' paths.

The only human lives lost in these two fires were an elderly couple in Grand Lake, who opted to shelter in their basement (which they believed to be fireproof) instead of following evacua on orders. Between Highways 125 and 34 in Grand County, more than 300 homes were lost during the East Troublesome Fire's epic run west. In the Cameron Peak Fire, 469 structures were damaged or lost reported the Denver Post in early November.

Interagency crews stage opera ons in Upper Beaver Meadows on Oct. 24. RMNP photo.

The condi ons that created these firestorms have been

A comparison graphic showing the severe mountain pine beetle infesta on in Rocky.

This infesta on did not begin to abate un l 2015.

RMNP photo.

developing for a long me and appear to be a combina on of climate change, reduced funding for wildland firefigh ng, and fluctua ng wildland management policies.

Of course, there is the obvious culprit: the fuel created by massive amounts of dead and dying trees due to an unprecedented pine-beetle infesta on that started in the mid-1990s. Pine beetle infesta ons occur naturally about every 30 years. These ny insects bore into the bark of pines (they prefer lodgepole pines, but also infect other pines if the infesta on is large. The larvae incuba ng in the trees are usually killed within a few years by extreme cold temperatures. However, steadily-warming temperatures did not kill these insects and their numbers flourish in Colorado's high country for nearly 30 years.

Larimer County Sheriff Jus n Smith took this photo on Oct. 23, on Trail Ridge Road on the west side of RMNP.

been infested with insects.”

More than 95 percent of the state's established lodgepole forests were killed in the most recent infesta on, which did not start to abate un l 2015.

According to Rocky's website, Colorado has been experiencing warmer-than-normal condi ons for the past decade.

“When insects kill a tree, it goes through stages,” Gabbert said. “In the first stage, the needles turn red.

When those red, dead needles are s ll on the tree, they have less moisture content. You can have crown fires which are much more dangerous than the green trees.

“When the needles fall off, a fire will be less intense above the ground, but you can have more fuels on the ground which increases the intensity on the forest floor.

A er five, ten or 15 years of infesta on, the trees can start to fall over,” reported Gabbert. “It is extremely hazardous for firefighters to fight fire in an area that has

In an interview with KWGN News on October 23, Colorado's governor Jared Polis said the wildfires are a combina on of “climate change and increased popula on and u liza on of public lands.”

Nearly five million people visited Rocky Mountain Na onal Park in 2019, most of them entering on the Estes Park side, a community with less than 7,000 yearround residents. The impact of human u liza on on our wilderness is a significant threat and depends greatly on everyone taking personal responsibility when recrea ng in the public lands.

Rocky Mountain Na onal Park and its surrounding communi es have had a fire ban in place since August 13; however, both the East Troublesome and Cameron Peak fires were determined to be human-caused.

“There are only three causes for wildfire,” Gabbert said,

“Volcanos, ligh ng, or human-caused.” But that doesn't mean these fires were arson, he said. Nor does it necessarily mean that people ignored the fire bans.

“Human-caused” can mean loose chains and vehicles towing trailers, causing sparks, some mes for miles through the forest, Gabbert explained. Other causes can include parking a car in high grass, automobile crashes, throwing cigare e bu s out the window, and disposing of ash from a fireplace, to name just a few, he said.

“Some organiza ons preemp vely close areas for extreme fire danger” during red-flag condi ons, said Gabbert, such as northern Colorado has been experiencing from mid-summer un l late fall. “ Educa on is one of the tradi onal ways of preven ng fires,” he said.

Prescribed fires would also reduce the amount of the fuel, reducing the threat to the community, Gabbert reported. “One of the impediments to conduc ng prescribed burns is funding,” he said. “Funding has been reduced over the past 10 years for all kinds of projects like this. If congress would appropriate more funds for conduc ng these opera ons, it would increase the safety of the communi es near the wildlands.”

I asked Gabbert to give me an overview of the history of wildfire mi ga on policies over the years. He told me that Na onal Forest Service implemented the “10 a.m.

Policy” a er the Big Burn of August, 1910.

Fires raged through Montana, Washington, and Idaho consuming three million acres in mul ple fires with the Big Burn.

“A er that, the NFS tried to staff up and implement everything they could so that they could suppress every fire by 10 a.m. on the following day,” explained Gabbert. “It was impossible to always meet that goal, but they tried to do it anyway.”

But more fires you put out, the less natural fires – which are necessary for the ecosystem – occur.

“Almost all vegeta on evolves in an ecosystem of burning,” he said. “Many plants and ecosystems are dependent on fire. If fire doesn't come through on a somewhat regular basis, varying anywhere from 5-10 years up to 300 years, it changes the ecosystem.” Thus,

The Grand Lake Entrance Sta on of RMNP was completely destroyed on October 21. RMNP photo.

the forests have much more fuel than would naturally be present.

In the 1970s, policies evolved to include the prac ce that Na ve Americans have employed for centuries: prescribed burns, said Gabbert.

“This was conducted to replicate more natural condi ons,” he said. “The number of prescribed fires increased un l about 15-20 years ago when the funding for prescribed fires has been reduced.”

Another, very risky, wildfire figh ng policy is some mes a empted, Gabbert reported, the “let it burn,” a limited-suppression philosophy.

“This is extremely difficult to do - it takes extremely smart people to manage fires like that and to be successful,” he said. “All it takes is one wind event like we had in Colorado in October to lose control.

“In my personal opinion, limited suppression fires are too dangerous to do unless you are close to a seasonending event. In prescribed burns, you pick the me and place.” Even with a significant snowfall, wildfires can smolder under the snow and spring up again in the spring.

These days, firefigh ng on public lands includes a variety of policies and many experts on climate, weather, logis cs, and terrain are employed. But Gabbert feels not enough funding is contributed to these efforts, including the low pay earned by these professionals.

The southern edge of the Cameron Peak Fire came within five miles of Estes Park. In areas where the pine beetle has killed the needles, very dangerous crown fires and steep terrain conspired to keep firefigh ng efforts limited to life and structure protec ons. Inciweb photo.

“They are not even called firefighters,” he said, “they are called forestry technicians.”

My conversa on with Bill Gabbert gave a me a lot to think about concerning the fires in my backyard. He even offered some prac cal advice for homeowners in forested areas on how to protect their own lands.

“It's the homeowner's responsibility to create defensible space around their home,” he said.

“One way to reduce the chance of a home being destroyed in a wildfire is reducing flammable material in the Home Igni on Zone. This includes spacing the crowns of trees at least 18 feet apart that are within 30 feet of the home, 12 feet apart at 30 to 60 feet from the home, and 6 feet apart at 60 to 100 feet away from structures” . Other steps to be taken is to employ fireresistant material while building homes in areas that experience high fire-dangers, he said.

A er Gabbert re red, he was the execu ve director of the Interna onal Associa on of Wildland Fire for a me

before launching his websites. His informa ve ar cles on Wildfire Today and Fire Avia on give a lot of insight and background on firefigh ng efforts today.

Please come back next month for part two of “Lessons from the biggest, wildest fires in Colorado's history,” featuring an interview with Toddi Steelman, Stanback Dean of the Nicholas School of the Environment at Duke University, and several other professionals.

Barb Boyer Buck first moved to Estes Park in the mid 1990s, to become the special sec ons and magazine editor for the Estes Park Trail-Gaze e.

She has been a professional writer and researcher for the past 25 years and is the managing editor of HIKE ROCKY Magazine .

Photo by Michael Mowery Media

O W L S

of Rocky Mountain National Park Story and photos by Sco Rashid Six species of owls inhabit Rocky Mountain Na onal Park (RMNP). The largest of these is the roughly 24-inch Great Horned Owl. This flying ger (as it is o en called) can be found in a variety of loca ons and habitats within the park.

Like the other owls in the Park, the Great Horned Owls do not construct their own nests but rather use an unoccupied pla orm previously constructed by ravens, crows, Red-tailed Hawks or even Northern Goshawks and Golden Eagles. They will also nest on cliff ledges or witch's brooms.

Great Horned Owls remain on their territories yearround and their dis nc ve “who, who, whoohoo, hoo” can be heard virtually any month of the year. The owls heard calling in late summer and fall are most likely that year's young, prac cing their call while s ll on their

parent territories. Young owls need to perfect their call before moving out on their own.

Juvenile Great Horned Owls can remain with their parents un l the eggs hatch the following year; at which point they become compe on to their parents for food and are driven from the territory.

Courtship o en begins in late December or early January with the male vocalizing for his mate as they recapitulate for another nes ng season. Once the pair is together, the male takes the female to his proposed nest site, and will frequently vocalize from it, o en with food in his mouth.

If she accepts the nest, she will begin laying her eggs; which are o en laid in two-to-three day intervals, but they can be laid up to a week apart. Incuba on lasts about 35 days and the young remain in the nest for up

great horned owlet to four weeks or more before edging.

During the ďŹ rst few weeks a er the young hatch the male hunts for the family. He brings prey to the nest and gives it to the female, who in turn feeds the young. Once the young are two weeks old and older, the adults frequently drop food at the nest and the owlets feed themselves.

Great Horned Owls have an extremely varied diet. In and around RMNP Great Horned Owls have been documented preying upon rabbits and hares, ground

adult great horned owl and tree squirrels, voles and mice, snakes, ďŹ sh and birds from sparrows and warblers, to half-grown turkeys, crows, hawks, other even other owls.

The smaller long-eared owl looks similar to its larger cousin, but this owl is 15-inches from head to tail.

It is found in denser habitat, long-eared owls frequently nest in abandoned nests of crow, Coopers hawks and northern goshawks. They will also nest in man-made structures.

interested in adver sing? click here juvenile great horned owl

adult long-eared owl

long-eared owlet

These owls begin courtship in February and o en begin nes ng from mid-March to late-May. The nests that I have monitored have had between two and four owlets per nest.

Long-eared Owls are small mammal specialists preferring to feed upon voles and mice, but have been documented feeding upon meadow voles, northern pocket gophers, deer mice and birds including finches, sparrows, starlings, and occasionally larger birds such as America Robins and Northern Flickers.

Their nests are o en adjacent to large openings in the forests where they can hunt the meadows and capture their prey. Pairs of long-eared owls o en nest in much closer proximity than Great Horned Owls. I have seen them nes ng as close as just a few hundred yards apart.

Incuba on lasts about 25 days but can take as long as 30 days. Young Long-eared Owls remain on their nests for three weeks before venturing out along the branches near the nest. They are typically independent at about two months post-fledging. boreal owl

The Boreal Owl is a species that nests in old growth spruce-fir forests usually above 9000 feet. These owls are the largest of the cavity-nes ng species found in the mountains. In RMNP they nest in abandoned Northern Flicker cavi es, or other cavi es large enough to fit the female.

Male boreal owls seem to defend the nest tree versus a large territory. Male boreal owls give a dis nc ve “bo, bo,bo,bo,bo,bo,bo,bo” that is o en heard from February through April. The call of the owl sounds similar to the structural sound that Wilson's snipes make as they dive during their courtship displays.

This call can be quite loud and is o en heard over a large area. However, when a female appears, the male's call becomes much quieter and o en more rapid. The female can be heard giving a so , singlenote “cheet” call.

A er the female has accepted the male and the nes ng site, she remains in the nest both day and night; only leaving for a few minutes to a end to her personal needs.

The male begins hun ng a er dark and appears to hunt in the forest exclusively.

Boreal owls in RMNP prefer red-backed voles, but have been documented preying upon deer mice, meadow and montane voles, shrews, northern pocket gophers, and birds including American robins, yellow-rumped warblers, white-crowned sparrows and Cassin's finches.

The owlets remain in the nest for about 30 days and can fledge at any me of the day or night. Once out of the nest they are capable of flight, and are quite hard to find in the dense forest.

The Boreal Owl's smaller cousin, the Northern Sawwhet Owl can be found in a broad array of habitats but seem to prefer those that include ponderosa pines, aspen, Douglas fir, junipers, ground junipers, downed logs, openings in the meadows, and a water source.

Male northern saw-whet owls appear to remain on their territories year-round, but the females and juveniles wander a er the end of the nes ng season. northern saw-whet owl At fledging the owlets are dark brown on their chests and backs and yellow-ochre on their bellies. The young remain in this plumage un l September, then molt into their adult plumage. That molt takes about a month to complete.

Their preferred prey is deer mice, but will also feed upon voles, northern pocket gophers, shrews and birds including pine siskins, red-breasted and pygmy nuthatches, yellow-rumped warblers, Cassin's and house finches, and house wrens, but I am sure they can take many more avian species. northern saw-whet owl Courtship can begin in January and con nue into July; un l the male recruits a female.

Northern saw-whet owls fit best in a cavity excavated by northern flickers, but will also nest in nest boxes made to the proper size and having the proper size entrance cavity.

The males call from the cavity entrance when trying to a ract a female. Once she accepts the cavity and begins laying eggs; incuba on begins. Incuba on lasts about 30 days and the eggs hatch in the order they were laid.

The owlets remain in the cavity for 30 days or more before fledging. In a natural cavity, northern saw-whets frequently fledge two owlets, but in a larger nest box can produce more than twice that.

twin juvenile northern saw-whet owls

Northern pygmy-owls are another small cavity-nes ng species that can be found within the park. These 7-inch owls are a diurnal species that are most ac ve at dawn and dusk.

In many ways they are anatomically unique among the other owls in RMNP. First off, northern pygmy-owls have short, rounded wings and long tails, whereas the rest of the owls in the area have long wings and rela vely short tails.

Northern pygmy-owls do not have a silent flight; there is no need for silent flight as they are ac ve during the day. Furthermore, northern pygmy-owls do not see much be er a er dark than humans do. A er all, there is li le need to see a er dark if you are not ac ve then.

Northern pygmy-owls have feathered eyespots on the backs of heads that look more like eyes than the birds' real eyes do. These eye spots act as a deterrent from birds a acking the owls from behind as the owls perch in the open searching for prey. Northern pygmy-owls can frequently be seen perched in the open when hun ng voles in the open meadows. northern pygmy-owl

northern pygmy-owlet

Northern pygmy-owls prey upon a wide variety of species, including red -backed, meadow and montane voles, least and Colorado chipmunks, deer mice, shrews, and birds including yellow-rumped, MacGillivray's, orange-crowned and Wilson's warblers; chipping, white-crowned and, Lincoln's sparrows; green-tailed and spo ed towhees; American robins; house and Cassin's finches; black-headed, pine and evening grosbeaks; black-capped and mountain chickadees; house wrens; and. broad-tailed hummingbirds. They will also occasionally take lizards and insects.

Northern pygmy-owls begin their courtship in midFebruary, but o en do not begin nes ng un l late April or early May. They have the longest courtship and largest territory of any small owl in RMNP. As with the northern saw-whet owls, the northern pygmy-owls preferred habitat is comprised of ponderosa pine, aspen, Douglas-fir, junipers, ground junipers, downed logs, openings in the meadows and a water source.

northern pygmy-owl

Male northern pygmy-owls o en secure a nes ng site as early as February and March. Once a female is a racted to the male by his vocalizing, he will take her to the poten al nest site and vocalize from it. He then exits and flies around her and reenters the nest in hopes that she will enter the cavity and find it to her liking. If she decides the cavity is a good one, they will move throughout their territory calling and

but the call of this ny bird is much quieter. The male flammulated owl will frequently be heard giving his hoo ng, while the female responds with a single raspy meow.

ammulated owl defending it from other owls. When she feels egg-laying is close-at-hand, she will remain within view of the nest during the day.

She will begin laying eggs from late April to mid-May. Owls in RMNP raise between 2 and 4 owlets in a nes ng season and the owlets remain in the cavity for about 30 days before fledging. At fledging the owlets are about three-inches from head to tail, as their tails are only a few millimeters in length. The owlets remain with their parent for about 30 days before moving out on their own.

A er the male has decided upon a cavity and the female accepts both him and the cavity, she will begin laying her eggs. A er the eggs are laid, the male will deliver food to the female in the cavity at a rate of about one moth per minute. This will con nue for about three hours a er dark. During incuba on this ac vity con nues for several nights a er the eggs are laid, then again a er the eggs hatch. When the owlets are about two-and-a half weeks old the female will hunt for the family along with the male.

Flammulated owls feed upon insects, with their primary prey being moths. They capture their insects in the air and glean others from branches of trees and bushes.

The owlets fledge at about 30 days a er hatching and remain with their parents for a few weeks before they migrate south for the winter. Adult owls appear to migrate first, followed by the young of the year.

It takes the owls about 30 days for their tails to grow to the full length of about 3 inches.

When people see the ny flammulated owl, one of the first things they no ce besides the bird's pe te size is its dark eyes. The flammulated owl is one of only four owls in North America that have dark eyes. All the other owls in North America have yellow eyes. The flammulated owl gets its name from the color of the scapular feathers on the birds back. They are rufous or flaming or flammulated.

Male flammulated owls arrive on their nes ng grounds in North America in late March and early April. Soon a er, the females arrive and courtship begins. In RMNP, flammulated owls can be found in habitat iden cal to that of the northern pygmy and the northern saw-whet owls. I know this because I had all three species nes ng in RMNP in the same tree in different years.

Once on their territories in the spring, these diminu ve predators locate a vacant nest cavity and the males will begin giving their dis nc ve “boo” or “boo, boo” call.

Their call sound is similar to the call of the long-eared owl,

ammulated owl

Ar st, researcher, bird rehabilitator, author, and director of a nonprofit are only a few things that describe Sco Rashid. Sco has been pain ng, illustra ng and wri ng about birds for over 30 years. In 2011, Sco created the Colorado Avian Research and Rehabilita on Ins tute in Estes Park.

In 2019, Sco located and documented the first Boreal Owl nest in the history of Rocky Mountain Na onal Park in Colorado. Sco has wri en and published five books and several papers on a variety of avian species. More informa on available on his website: h p://www.carriep.org/

Seasons of Wildowers

an alpine meadow in RMNP Story and photos by Marlene Borneman “Tis the last rose of summer, Left blooming alone; All her lovely companions Are faded and gone."

- Thomas Moore, The Last Rose of Summer, 1830

Summer is over and so are Colorado's wildflowers.

I'm preparing for next wildflower season by making my “must see” list. I'm also inves ga ng plants that I was unable to iden fy this summer. For example, late in August I spo ed a shrub in several loca ons that I did not recognize.

mystery shrub

This shrub was past flowering and had no fruits; key points to help iden fy. I have narrowed it down to two species and made a note to hike these loca ons next

summer when it is in flower and can accurately label.

Knowing what “season” to find a plant in flower gives me a head start.

I think of wildflower season as “seasons” within the season. First, Colorado's climate is determined by al tude and plants grow within layers of al tude.

These layers are called Life Zones. Colorado has five Life Zones: Plains, 3,315 feet-5,600 feet, Foothills 5,600 – 8,000 feet, Montane 8,000 – 10,500 feet, Subalpine 10,500 – 11,500 feet and Alpine 11,500 – 14,431 feet in Colorado (highest point in Colorado Mt. Elbert).

sagebrush buttercup The Montane Zone is characterized by cooler temperatures, lodgepole pines, spruce and aspen forest. I start expec ng to see plants bloom in this zone by the end of May – June. Sagebrush bu ercups are common here. Most of Colorado's na ve orchids grow in the montane zone.

kinnickkinnick The high plains of Colorado begin showing plant life in April as temperatures warm and spring rains nourish the plants. A variety of cac , plains phlox, and species of Cryptantha are some of the first to appear.

krummholz The Foothills are characterized by grasslands, ponderosa forest and shrubs.

I think of pasque flowers, western spring beauty, ball cactus and kinnikinnick blooming here from April to mid-June.

The subalpine zone is where forest gives way to more alpine vegeta on like limber pines and krummholz.

Krummholz is German for “crooked wood.” It is where spruce/fir tree seeds are whooshed by the wind to higher eleva ons but due to the harsh climate cannot

grow into trees but rather their limbs take root spreading along the ground becoming a tangled mini forest.

I avoid hiking through krummholz as they scratch and trip me every me. Avalanche lilies and alpine laurel are some flowers I find here in early June through the first weeks of July.

marsh marigold

Bigalow’s tansyleaf aster

The alpine zone is the highest zone in RMNP 14,259 feet (Longs Peak). This environment is referred to as Alpine Tundra. Tundra, “Land Above Trees”, refers to an environment that is treeless, cold, windy, and with a short growing season. It is a vast, enormous space with a contrast of ny plant life. Approximately one third of RMNP is tundra, one of the largest areas in the lower 48. Alpine plants are hardy and have adapted to this harsh environment. They cling to very thin soil. How do these plants cope? Many alpine plants have long tap roots to anchor them down and help find water. A good number of the alpine plants leaves, stems and flower heads are covered with fine hairs that capture heat and hold moisture. Many of the alpine plants are cushion plants growing very close to the ground in mounds. The strong winds and storms do not blow these plants over, it simply blows over them. The alpine forget-me-not and alpine phlox are some of the first cushion plants to bloom on the tundra in late May. Upper foothills, montane, subalpine and alpine life zones cover RMNP. I have spent a lot of me learning about the plant communi es within the alpine life zone. This has helped me reliably find alpine/subalpine species in bloom by knowing the “community” they prefer to grow. Snowbeds, where snow melts slowly and persists late into summer, is where I find resilient plants that even bloom up through the snow! Snow bu ercups are common alpine flowers found around snowbeds.

Alpine marshes and bogs occur in the fla ening slopes at the bo om of a mountainsides where mel ng snow feeds the ground. Marshes and bogs house early summer bloomers that like to keep their feet wet and cold. I think of marsh marigolds and globeflowers blooming in these subalpine/alpine marshes.

Plants that grow well in boulder fields and talus/scree slopes bloom in mid-summer when the rocks are warmed by the intense sun and doused by a ernoon thunder showers. The boulders and scree provide shelter and the plant roots help stabilize the slopes.

Dwarf mountain ragwort, sky pilot, and pygmy goldenweed thrive in these rocky areas.

alpine cushion plants Alpine meadows form where there are rolling dips in the tundra providing shelter from the winds and an area to spread out. Taller plants and grasses are able to grow here in mid-late summer such as arrowleaf ragwort, hairy arnica and elephant head.

human disturbance add changes to growth and bloom me, for me, all of it makes each year new and exci ng.

I really never know what to expect and some mes get taken by surprise! Bo om line Mother Nature is in charge.

Even though I have come to expect certain flowers to bloom in spring, summer and autumn I keep in mind there are several variables that affect blooming in each life zone. For years I have made a point to hike to a specific loca on; at the same date I did the year before expec ng a par cular plant to be in bloom. During the years I have been doing this I have found the flower(s) to be barely in bud, past the flowering prime or not find the plant at all. I'm never disappointed with the results.

It causes me to think what is going on.

I used to think come August there was nothing new to see. However, there are several species that prefer mid-late summer/autumn to show off. In the subalpine the ra lesnake plantain orchids and hooded lady's tresses orchids like August to bloom. The alpine arc c gen an is another late bloomer seen in August September. Other members of the gen an family also come into flower August – September. In the foothills/montane zones asters begin blooming in August and if the weather cooperates stay strong un l October.

Eleva on is a key variable. The plains will bloom before the alpine. Chiming bells grow from the plains to the alpine as does the wallflower, but not at the same me due to eleva on. But what else effects the plant ability to bloom “on me ” within its life zone?

Spring and summer temperatures can upset the blooming mes. Precipita on, including the year's snowpack, will determine the plant's growth and/or ability to bloom. Storms and winds can delay or prevent blooming. Soil condi ons that may have changed due to floods, fire, avalanches, animal and/or

I must say something about climate change in the mountains where it has been so evident this year. With the early warm temperatures bringing an early spring I observed alpine plants blooming in late April and then they were gone! An early spring also meant blooming plants may have missed the arrival of pollinators. I have said before “one can't live without the other!”

Warmer temperatures also meant less precipita on and more evapora on of water in summer months resul ng in dry condi ons. RMNP is in a drought condi on.

I'm concerned and possibly saddened to see how

climate change plays out in the future for na ve wildflowers. For now, I remain op mis c and feeling self-assured about iden fying that mystery shrub in 2021!

snow buttercup

Marlene has been photographing Colorado's wildflowers while on her hiking and climbing adventures since 1979. Marlene has climbed Colorado's 54 14ers, the 126 USGS named peaks in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park and 44 State High Points. She has been a member of the Colorado Mountain Club since 1979 and is a member of the Colorado Na ve Plant Society. She teaches wildflower classes for the Rocky Mountain Conservancy and provides community programs to educate and promote stewardship for Colorado's wildflowers.

alpine fortget-me-nots

She is the author of Rocky Mountain Wildflowers 2Ed. and The Best Front Range Wildflower Hikes, and Rocky Mountain Alpine Flowers, published by CMC Press.

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Climb a rock in Rocky

The author, Melissa Strong, is spo ed by her husband, Adam, as she climbs in Chaos Canyon. Photo by Sam Davis.

Climbing and bouldering in and around Rocky Mountain Na onal Park

by Melissa Strong Climbing has been one of Estes Park's defining ac ves since the 1800s. The Stone Beaver, an Indigenous American nomenclature for Long's Peak, was a landmark for Indigenous Americans and Western se lers. This magnificent 14er lured travelers from the 1800s to test their strength a emp ng to summit this peak--including Isabella Bird who summited Longs with Mountain Jim's help in 1873.

Conscien ous objectors to the Vietnam war found a safe reprieve working for the YMCA of the Rockies and established several of the alpine and Lumpy Ridge's first ascents of the '70s.

Home to famous prolific climbers like Tommy Caldwell, Thomas Hornbein, Kelly Cordes, Josh Warton, Bob Siegrist and the list goes on…the climbing areas have con nued to grow because of their efforts and dedica on.

Chaos Canyon Some of the best summer bouldering in the country in the stunning alpine se ng of Rocky Mountain Na onal Park. Boulders are located around Lake Haiyaha and li ered throughout the talus field of the canyon star ng at 10,000. Access from Bear Lake parking lot in RMNP or take the visitors shu le. A park pass is required to

access this area. Area classics Tommy's Arete V7, Deep Puddle Dynamics V9, Skipper D V8.

Lumpy Ridge Trailhead off of Devils Gulch Road approximately 1.5 miles from downtown Estes Park. Approaches 2.5-6 miles. The climbs range from 2-5 pitches of tradi onal granite climbing with a few bolted routes including El Camino and the Renaissance Wall. Classics Kor's Flake 5.7+ on Sundance, J-Crack 5.9+, Fat City Roof Crack 5.10c, Loose Ends 5.9 on the Book and Clown Time is Over 5.9+ on Batman Pinnacle.

The Wizard's Gate Access these crags on Twin Sisters from the parking lot.

A steep 45-minute approach veers off north a er the 3rd switchback on the Twin Sisters trail. Head to the Lower Great Face and con nue around the northside to the cave by the Central Bu ress. There are 26 bolted climbs from 5.9-5.13d. Put up by locals Sco Kimball, and father-son team Bob and Jonathan Siegrist.

Jurrasic Park Park at Lily Lake, walk counterclockwise around the lake to the northwest. Climbers trail is marked by cairns leading you up to the saddle in between granite outcroppings for approximately 20 minutes. Mostly sport climbing from 5.6-5.12a. The Edge of Time 5.9

Mountain Road. The parking lot is 5.1 miles from this turn.

Con nue 2.5 miles to T-intersec on, turn le . At the Yintersec on go le . Stay on 128 un l you go 5.1 miles.

Parking camping area on the le . The trail is about 450 feet up the road o of a switch back to the le . 45 minutes to an hour hike uphill both ways.

Lumpy Ridge, Then Wizard's Gate and Jurassic Park are located in the Rocky Mountain Na onal Park; however, a park pass is not required. Check for closures before heading out. h ps://www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures. htm How to kill a rest day Hiking in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park. Several stunning hikes allow you to summit mountains or reach a beau ful alpine lake. For something shorter Mills Lake 2.7 miles out of Glacier Basin or the magniďŹ cent Spectacle Lake at the foot of Mt Ypsilon 5.3 miles Lawn Lake trailhead.

If you want to give your legs a rest, there is $2 mini golf at Tiny Town on Hwy 36.

Ghost Tours at the famous Stanley Hotel (where Stephan King penned The Shining) are never a letdown. Stop at the bar to sample some whiskey from one of Colorado's most extensive whiskey collec ons.

Tommy Caldwell climbs Halle Boulder, Tyndall Gorge, RMNP. Photo by Melissa Strong

Check out local Colorado artwork at Aspen and Evergreen Gallery in downtown Estes Park.

classic arete of the area.

Performance Park Newly bolted lines in downtown Estes Park behind the amphitheater. Parking for Performance Park is right in front of the park, leaving you with a 3-minute approach. Great for beginners or ge ng some climbs in between monsoons. Mostly sport ranging from 5.35.11.

The Monastery Yielding the most sport climbing in the area. Father-son team Mike and Tommy Caldwell established many of the routes on the granite, gneiss and schist rock.

Climbs are predominantly sport but some mixed trad and sport climbing. They range from 5.6 - 5.14d. Area classics The Hot Zone 5.9-, Tabula Rasa 5.10d, Psychedelic 12.d. From Estes Park head down Hwy 34 to Drake, Colorado. Turn le on County Road 43. A er .3 miles turn right onto Colorado 128 aka Storm

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Where to eat Bird & Jim has excellent cocktails, amazing views of RMNP and delicious local Colorado cuisine. They are located on Hwy 36 on your way into or out of the Park.

Ed's Can na is a classic climber hangout in downtown Estes.

The Dunraven Inn: fuel up with a hearty Italian meal; they also feature steaks and seafood.

Elkin's Dis llery is making tasty whiskey locally and serving delicious cocktails. It is a great place to celebrate sending.

Adam Strong climbs Thizz Dance, Pear Lake. Photo by Melissa Strong.

Lumpy Ridge Brewery on Hwy 7 aka South Saint Vrain.

Fun local hangout with live music on occasion and the town's favorite food truck, Ra ons, is there on weekends.

Rock Cut Brewery is another local favorite, brewing great beer and they always have fun events including trivia night, hiking day groups, and rota ng nightly food trucks.

Where to stay Some be er values around town: Colorado Mountain School's hostel h ps://coloradomountainschool.com/productcategory/lodging/.

The Blue Door has affordable rooms, great reviews, a pool, grills, horseshoe pits, a campfire area with live music in summer and not far from Lumpy Ridge trailhead.

Camping--there are many campgrounds in the Na onal Park and around town but be sure to book ahead of me since they fill up quickly with the summer travelers.

Free short-term camping is allowed in Arapaho & Roosevelt Na onal Forrest. These sites can be difficult to find, and four-wheel drive is o en necessary. Some areas to explore for free camping are Johnny Park, Pole Hill, Bunce School Road and on Storm Mountain, the camping/parking lot for the Monastery.

Melissa Strong climbing on Skipper D in Chaos Canyon . Photo by Gustavio Mosier Melissa Strong lives in Estes Park, Colorado, running Bird & Jim, climbing and volunteering in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park and Hueco Tanks. She is an ac ve member of the community including being a board member for the Estes Valley Land Trust.

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Trail work at Lily Lake, Conservancy photo

Conservancy photo

The Rocky Mountain Conservancy Since 1931.... making a difference in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park

by Nancy Wilson Founded in 1931, the Rocky Mountain Conservancy is the nonprofit partner of Rocky Mountain Na onal Park. Its primary mission is to provide philanthropic, research and educa onal support to Rocky Mountain Na onal Park, including funding for youth educa on through the Next Genera on Fund. The organiza on also works with Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management (BLM) partner agencies to provide educa onal services and support.

In addi on to its educa onal and visitor services programs, the Rocky Mountain Conservancy engages in special fundraising projects to benefit Rocky. The first project, in 1985, was the acquisi on of the Jennings Tract, a private landholding located in the Kawuneeche Valley, which was transferred to the park for permanent protec on.

Since then, with the support of thousands of members and donors, the Conservancy has raised more than $25 million and completed more than 50 significant projects, such as the purchase of the 40acre Cascade Co ages property for the park, the construc on of handicapped-accessible trails around Lily Lake and Sprague Lake, trail improvement at Lake Haiyaha and in many other areas of the park, land protec on on the park's west side, and the design and construc on of the spectacular Fall River Visitor Center.

Our mission The Rocky Mountain Conservancy promotes stewardship of Rocky Mountain Na onal Park and similar lands through educa on and philanthropy.

How we work The Conservancy operates Nature Stores within Rocky Mountain Na onal Park and in other public lands in Colorado and Wyoming. In addi on to providing visitor services, educa onal publica ons and mementos, these stores provide funds that support the interpre ve programs at the sites at which they are located.

Historic preserva on at Shadow Mountain Fire Lookout, Conservancy photo

Philanthropy and Fundraising Protec ng our na on's valuable lands: Since the early 1980s, the Rocky Mountain Conservancy has assumed a leadership role in acquiring many important parcels of land, both in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park and in the adjacent Arapaho-Roosevelt Na onal Forest, and transferring the land to these federal agencies for permanent protec on.

Conservancy Field Ins tute Program, Photo by Megan Maitland

Profits from these earned-income ac vi es also underwrite Conservancy opera ons and mission-driven programs ensuring that philanthropic dona ons directly fund projects in and around Rocky Mountain Na onal Park.

Signature Programs Field Ins tute Program Educa on as a tool for stewardship It all started in 1962, an auspicious year for the Conservancy's Field Ins tute program. Dr. Beatrice Willard, a local ecologist and tundra specialist, was deeply inspired by the poten al of field-based educa onal experiences in the na onal parks. In Rocky, she ini ated the first educa onal program of its kind in a na onal park.

More than 50 years later, this innova ve and energe c program con nues, expanded from the original few classes about plants, wildlife and na ve peoples, to hundreds of day-long and mul -day adventures in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park.

Today, par cipants discover and explore a wide range of topics through custom, youth and family programs, and outdoor educa onal adventures and tours, including hiking and skill-building, photography, art, natural history and cultural history.

Educa onal Tours by Bus From the comfort of 14-passenger buses or an 11passenger van, the Conservancy's Field Ins tute offers guided bus tours throughout Rocky Mountain Na onal Park. These educa onal adventures provide visitors with a unique experience to explore the park in greater depth with a professional naturalist.

Rocky Mountain Conservancy land protec on: Wild Basin, Conservancy photo

Trail Restora on Due to the wear and tear of high visita on, trail repairs and improvements are in constant demand in this park.

Our much-loved trails require on-going a en on to keep them safe and in good condi on to protect park resources and ensure visitor safety.

The Rocky Mountain Conservancy con nually raises funds for numerous trail improvement projects to help the park with its priority projects, making trails more easily located, safer and beau fully cra ed to protect the resource for years to come.

Historic Preserva on Preserving the park's heritage Dozens of historic buildings dot Rocky Mountain Na onal Park. Even more can be found in neighboring communi es and adjacent na onal forests. This is where our historical heritage comes to life. These are reminders of genera ons past. As stewards of history, the Rocky Mountain Conservancy already has restored many significant buildings.

The Conservancy and the park regularly select special structures in need of help. Only through the hands-on strategies of repair, restora on and adap ve-use will these buildings be saved and their important history conveyed to coming genera ons.

Nature. Pass it on.

The Next Genera on Fund Passing the stewardship of Rocky Mountain Na onal Park on to our children is a task as big as our signature mountains. With the support of our donors and members, our goal is to build and maintain a connec on between children, nature and the park.

Through the Next Genera on Fund, the Rocky Mountain Conservancy captures the hearts, minds and funding necessary to secure the future of the educa onal programs at Rocky Mountain Na onal Park.

To meet these challenges, there are two parts to the Next Genera on Fund: a “working” fund, which provides more than $500,000 in dona ons annually for program support; and a growing endowment fund that will eventually support these programs in perpetuity.

Next Genera on Fund internship, NPS photo

Programs supported by the Next Genera on Fund: • The Conservancy's Conserva on Corps • Rocky's Junior Ranger Program • RMNP's Heart of the Rockies Environmental Educa on program • Youth and family-oriented publica ons and exhibits • Park internships and fellowships • Conservancy internships and fellowships • Youth and family programs through the Conservancy's Field Ins tute

Next Genera on Fund Program Highlights: Junior Ranger Program Engaging kids as future park stewards This program helps children and their families to explore and experience Rocky Mountain Na onal Park up close. Through engaging ac vi es and books, Junior Rangers become familiar with the flora and fauna of Rocky to help them develop a love for nature, nurturing a sense of commitment to the future of parks and protected areas.

The Next Genera on Fund supports the program through the development and publica on of innova ve ac vity booklets, games and Junior Ranger items.

Next Genera on Fund, Junior Ranger Program, NPS photo

Environmental Educa on In 2019, the Next Genera on Fund (NGF) enabled Rocky's Educa on and Outreach Program to provide 327 programs to more than 13,000 learners. This included more than 90 distance learning programs, 16 days of Discovery Days programming, and over 120 days of school field trip programs.

Student Internship Opportuni es Developing interpre ve and educa on skills Students needing an internship for college gradua on or graduates seeking field experience or a career change o en sa sfy these needs working in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park.

RM Conservancy bus tours, Conservancy photo

Each year, students work full- me during various seasons to assist with educa on and outreach in the park; conduc ng interpre ve programs; providing informal, roving interpreta on along trails and at overlooks; and providing park informa on and answering ques ons at visitor centers. They work alongside professional ranger-naturalists and educators to learn the art and cra of conduc ng educa on programs in the field.

The Next Genera on Fund provides more than $85,000 annually to give these students life-long experiences in the park — an investment in future genera ons that can grow exponen ally.

Conserva on Corps Nurturing stewardship through work The Rocky Mountain Conservancy supports on-theground conserva on work in Rocky Mountain Na onal Park and surrounding public lands through the Conserva on Corps, High School Leadership Corps, and through its Volunteer Stewardship program. These programs provide people of all ages with an opportunity to learn and to give back to their public lands through service. The Conserva on Corps offers young adults summer-long AmeriCorps opportuni es to serve, learn and live in Rocky and the surrounding Arapaho-Roosevelt na onal forests. These AmeriCorps members support trail maintenance, habitat restora on, historic preserva on, and visitor-use site improvements.

Over the course of their summer of service, AmeriCorps members earn a living allowance, gain valuable professional skills, learn about public land management, and develop a conserva on ethic.

Next Genera on Fund environmental educa on, NPS photo

to support projects directly, including building and repairing trails, protec ng land for the park, educa ng the next genera on of public lands stewards and so much more.

Members also become a helpful resource for volunteer ac vi es when needed.

NGF Conserva on Corps, RM Conservancy photo

The High School Leadership Corps provides Colorado high school youth with an immersive, paid servicelearning opportunity. Over the course of their two weeks of service, High School Leadership Corps members complete on-the-ground projects, develop leadership skills, and acquire new outdoor skills which allow them to prepare for future jobs and explore new career fields.

NGF Publica ons The Rocky Mountain Conservancy also funds the development of fun, educa onal books for kids, with the goal of plan ng seeds in young readers that will blossom into full-fledged stewardship of Rocky with me. A few recent examples include: Mountain Valley Journals explores the cultural history of Moraine Park and Estes Park from 12,000 years ago to the present.

Cimarron the Bighorn Sheep tells the story of the first year of adventures for a bighorn lamb in the Rocky Mountains.

Running Wild takes readers on incredible journeys down both sides of the Con nental Divide to where the waters travel.

Wild Inside: RMNP opens the world of Rocky's wildlife to young kids in a sturdy and entertaining board book format for youngsters. Now in Spanish!

Membership Crea ng a strong founda on of support for Rocky, memberships provide the Rocky Mountain Conservancy with crucial financial support and builds an ac ve cons tuency for Rocky Mountain Na onal Park and other public lands.

Conservancy members form a stable founda on for the organiza on's opera ons, o en addi onally choosing

Next Genera on Fund publica ons, available for sale Nancy Wilson is the editor of the Rocky Mountain Conservancy’s Quarterly newsle er, publishes the Conservancy books and promo onal materials and partners with the retail department to create fun products for Conservancy Nature Stores.

Thank you

for reading our preview issue of HIKE ROCKY!

This issue is presented free of charge to the public as a preview to this new endeavor which will publish every month. Starting January 15, a subscription will be required to access HIKE ROCKY - 12 issues for only $48!

As in this preview issue, each month will feature a variety of stories about Rocky Mountain National Park including news, analysis, ecology, advice, and armchair travel pieces designed to put you in this beautiful place we love and cherish.

Rocky Mountain Day Hikes is a proud supporter of Rocky Mountain Conservancy the Leave No Trace initiative and several other wilderness conservation programs. Your subscription will help pay for our quality content and support the many organizations working to help keep Rocky wild.

Coming up in HIKE ROCKY JANUARY

• •

• • • • • • •

The evolu on from homesteader to conserva onist of Enos Mills, the Father of Rocky Mountain Na onal Park, by his great-granddaughter, Eryn Mills Part two of “Lessons learned from Colorado’s biggest, wildest fires” interviews with Dr. Toddi Steelman, president of the Interna onal Associa on of Wildland Fire and several other professionals - what’s next & how do we recover and prevent further disasters?

Beau ful winter hikes in Rocky TSL snowshoe review by Murray Selleck, Safety and preparedness can keep you safe when enjoying Rocky, by Iolanthe Culjak of Op mum Ergo Can you match the flowers with the fruit in Rocky? by Marlene Borneman Hoofed - the ungulates of Rocky (elk, moose, and big-horn sheep) Photos by Marsha Hobert and more!

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