Los Vaqueros

DINING A Chilly Night For Chiles

A meal at Los Vaqueros naturally evolves into a celebration. Discover for yourself – 30 Dillard Road (next to Farmer’s Market); (828) 482-7040.

It makes sense that our group of friends would gather on a chilly December evening at Los Vaqueros, Highlands’ newest restaurant in the space next to Farmer’s Market.

The authentic Mexican dishes featured on its expansive menu were simple to make, inexpensive, and informal.

All of that’s conducive to a lively table and conversations that pinball back and forth and across the margins, enlivened by the steady intake of precisely engineered Margaritas.

Those Margaritas, so potent in their conversation-inducing/ seducing, were of the Texas variety. That means that their smooth palate presentation was enhanced by the application of jalapeño agave. When that unique hot sweetness is blended with tequila and lime, well, it’s a sensation that’ll play arpeggios on your palate.

Not only that, it’s an efficient tongue-loosener, which’ll definitely enhance the tabletop conversation.

Add to that the arrival of chips and salsa, chips and queso, and chips and glorious guacamole, and you can guess that we were in lovely conversation mode.

We banked those embers of vital discussion when the food arrived, and this is where the true glory of Los Vaqueros is revealed.

It’s easy to get sloppy when you’re turning out Mexican dishes. There’s not a lot of variety of ingredients, and the emphasis is on serving the dishes with brutal efficiency.

Without attention to detail, the delivered dishes are uninspired and just this side of tragic.

But we were delighted to discover that the people manning the kitchen at Los Vaqueros were at the top of their game, and each item was obviously crafted with care.

The Chimichanga, a deep-fried meat-filled burrito, was a thing of beauty, and quickly sampled by everyone at our table, to the chagrin of the person who ordered it and was left with a mini-chimi.

In addition to that sadly-diminished Chimichanga, we devoured our Burrito California, our Fajita del Mar, the Chiles Poblanos and my marvelous Chori Pollo, a fantastic blending of Chorizo and Grilled Chicken. Seeing what happened to that Chimichanga, I was not so good about sharing it with my companions.

Oh, and before I wrap this up, let me put in my highest compliments to our server, Carlos. It’s not easy taking care of a table of chatty revelers, and he did it with aplomb and gentle good humor.

Oh, and if this review seems to wander around a bit, I’m going to blame it on those Texas Margaritas. You may remember a few issues ago when I said that I just didn’t like alcohol, but Tricia allowed me to sip some of hers. And sip. And sip. by Luke Osteen | photos by Susan Renfro

A Cultural Classic

Hugh Acheson’s classic Catfish Stew comes drenched in history, with a hard kernel of pain at its core.

Perhaps you landed on another page in this month’s issue about Hugh Acheson, featured chef at The Farm at Old Edwards, and were intrigued and tantalized by his flavors and history.

The recipe here for Catfish Stew, reprinted from his book, The Chef and the Slow Cooker, will give you a glimpse into his unique slant on the South’s culinary history and a taste of the bold flavor that catapulted him to stardom.

Catfish Stew From Hugh Acheson

Serves 4 - 6 “Is it Southern? I mean, what is Southern food? You got six months for a chat over a number of cases of bourbon? There will be some tears and some wrestling of emotions and probably real wrestling, too. The short of it is that the idea of a catfish stew is widely found in western Africa, particularly Nigeria, and the very similar method and results of that stew has been around before George Washington’s parents ever got to first base. So yes, it is a Southern recipe, because it exists in our tome of Southern food, but it had a different cultural significance long before that and only exists here because of slavery. That is true for much of the Southern culinary canon and the time is right to acknowledge where a lot of our treasured gastronomy comes from and the pain that brought it to the table. So go make some food and gather round the table, and talk about where all of these flavors come from and what that all means. ‘Cause it means a lot.”

Ingredients

1 28-ounce can Italian Plum Tomatoes ½ pound Slab Bacon, diced 1 large Sweet Onion, diced 1 large Red Bell Pepper, cored and diced 1 branch of Celery, diced 4 cloves Garlic, minced 4 whole Cloves 1 teaspoon Ground Mace 1 teaspoon ground Allspice 2 cups Clam Juice 2 cups Fish Stock or Vegetable Stock 1 pound Fingerling Potatoes, cut into 1-inch long rounds Kosher Salt 2 tablespoons Worcestershire Sauce 1 teaspoon Hot Sauce 1½ pounds Catfish Filets, cut into 1-inch pieces 2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) Unsalted Butter ¼ cup minced Parsley ½ cup Pickled Banana Peppers, thinly sliced Freshly ground Black Pepper

Directions

1. Preheat a slow cooker on high for at least 15 minutes. 2. Place the can of tomatoes and their liquid into a food processor and pulse to break them down a bit. 3. Set a large skillet over medium heat, add the bacon and cook for 10 minutes or until most of the fat has rendered. Add the onions, peppers, and celery and cook for 2 minutes, then add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Remove from heat and add the mixture to the slow cooker. 4. Add the tomatoes, cloves, mace, allspice, clam juice, stock, potatoes, and 1 teaspoon of salt to the slow cooker. Cook for 4 hours on low heat. The potatoes should be fork-tender at this point. 5. Add the Worcestershire, hot sauce, and half-teaspoon of salt. 6. Season the catfish pieces with half-teaspoon of salt, then add them to the slow cooker and cook for 20 minutes. Add the butter to the pot, stir gently, then ladle the stew into a soup tureen or individual bowls. Garnish with the parsley, banana peppers, and finish with a grind of black pepper and additional salt to taste.

by Marlene Osteen

Pairing Valentines and Wines

The correct application of a carefully-selected wine enhances every Valentine’s Day celebration.

As yet another holiday approaches – Valentine’s Day this time – thoughts again turn to wine. Two categories come to mind – dry sparkling (because, of course, it’s celebratory) and dessert wines (sweets for your sweetheart).

It may be a cliché, but rose champagne never goes unappreciated on Valentine’s Day, and hey, if ever there was an occasion to splurge on love, then Valentine’s the day, right?

And these two bottles of Rose Champagne– more than just pretty in pink though they are that too – are exceptional. With notes of smoky red berry fruit and warm biscuit, the iconic, full-bodied LaurentPerrier Brut Rose NV is a heady and sophisticated gastronomic rose that is certain to seduce.

As giving and demonstrative as an attentive lover is the Billecart Salmon Brut Rose. Pillowy and elegant with racy acids and notions of peach dried flowers and a generous core of fruit, it’s a delightful and entrancing charmer.

As inevitable as long stem roses and lingerie, the Valentine’s day quandary about what wine goes best with chocolate for the occasion often comes up. Though I remain not personally much interested in the combination – a sort of guilty pleasure – I am happy to resolve the dilemma.

There are, in fact, some excellent answers. Most experts agree that the resolution hinges not merely on which wine but also on which chocolate you plan to eat. The mild sweetness of milk chocolate is more versatile than the darker chocolates, which have a distinct bitterness that can clash with wines not equipped to handle it. That being the case, fortified wines are the best choices – specifically Madeira and Port. As to Madeira, the sweetest Madeira’s – labeled “malmsey” are best. Blandy’s 5-year Malmsey is an excellent entrylevel choice, or even better, their 15-year Madeira which has a bright, refreshing flavor that is superb with chocolate. As to Port, tawny ports with their mellowed nuttiness from long barrel aging are lively enough to match with dark chocolates – try those from reliable labels Taylor, Sandeman, and Cockburn. A decent alternative is a young ruby port like Graham’s Six Grapes. One sensational unfortified wine choice is a Tokai Aszu from Hungary – made with grapes that have been inflicted with noble rot. – they are both overtly sweet and wonderfully acidic.

Then again, nothing says I love you quite like a bottle of romantically named wine. Set the mood with a bottle of the classic and understated Christophe Pacalet Saint-Amour Beaujolais, or demonstrate your passion for your love with a left bank Bordeaux, Chateau La Tour Carnet Medoc Passion. The heart-adorned, lip-smacking bottle of the delectable Carignan-dominant red blend from Broc Cellars labelled Love Red is perfect for a romantic evening and just might enchant your lover.

by Marlene Osteen

Delicious Food Drinks & Ambiance

In a move that’ll tilt the Plateau’s culinary landscape, Hummingbird Lounge has expanded its offerings into lunch and dinner settings. It’s located in Old Edwards Inn, 445 Main Street in Highlands.

Old Edwards Inn has opened its Hummingbird Lounge for lunch and dinner.

That means you can relax in a parlor-room fireside setting and enjoy all your favorites from the Madison’s menu.

Take a break from afternoon shopping to sip a crisp Pinot Grigio with a fresh garden salad – or discover the popular shrimp and grits.

For dinner, settle in with a glass of Burgundy and savor the taste of fall’s Pumpkin Ravioli – or sink your teeth into a cast iron-seared New York Strip.

Finish your delightful meal with a Hot Toddy or a frothy Cappuccino paired with a housemade dessert like Madison’s Pecan Pie.

Hummingbird Lounge at Old Edwards Inn is an irresistible place to stop in for a cozy respite of delicious food, beverages, and ambiance.

In fact, here’s what I said about a mid-winter visit last year, “Hummingbird Lounge is a sweet oasis for those who hunger for a bit of lively conversation shared over groaning tables of food and generous pours.”

“What a precious commodity, and a callback to a more languorous, genteel time.”

“The place is designed for easy conversation and sophisticated dining. There’s an almost irresistible library setting of overstuffed chairs and a sofa in front of a carefully tended fireplace. Settle in here, and it’ll take a spatula to get you out of your seat and back out into the real world.”

“If you manage to resist plopping yourself in this easy fireplace vignette, you’ll find yourself in a cozy lounge with tall bistro tables and plush chairs along the perimeter.”

They’re serving daily from 11:30 A.M. to 9:00 P.M. For a full menu, visit oldedwardsinn. com/dine.

by Luke Osteen

thelaurelmagazine.com/cuisine

To see the most up-to-date information about dining on the plateau visit thelaurelmagazine.com/restaurants

Plateau Dining Guide

The Restaurants of the Highlands Cashiers Plateau

Meals Wine Full Bar Children’s Menu Vegetarian Selections Reservations Recommended Dress Code Live Entertainment Outdoor Dining Take Out Ad On Page

HIGHLANDS AREA RESTAURANTS 4118 Kitchen + Bar

The Bistro at Wolfgang’s Calder’s Cafe

Fire + Water Restaurant 64 Highlands Plaza (828) 526-5002 L, D n n n C n 75 460 Main Street (828) 526-3807 D n n n n NC n n 5 384 Main Street (828) 200-9308 B, L n C n n 74

Reservations Required (828) 526-4446 B, L n n C n 15

Four65 Woodfire Bistro + Bar 465 Main Street (828) 787-2990 L ,D n n n C n n 79 Hummingbird Lounge 455 Main Street Highlands, NC (828) 787-2525 L n n n NC n 45 *The Kitchen CarryAway & Catering 350 S. Fifth Street (828) 526-2110 L, D n n 75 Oak Steakhouse at Skyline Lodge 470 Skyline Lodge Rd (828) 482-4720 D, SB n n n n NC n n n 70 On the Verandah Highway 64 (Franklin Road) (828) 526-2338 D, SB n n n n C n n 78 Truckin at The High Dive 476 Carolina Way L, D n n n n C n n 81 The Ugly Dog Pub 298 South 4th Street (828) 526-8364 L, D, SB n n n n C n n n 81 Wolfgang’s Restaurant 460 Main Street (828) 526-3807 D n n n n NC n n 5 CASHIERS AREA RESTAURANTS Cashiers Valley Smokehouse US 64 West (828) 547-2096 L, D C n n n 76 The Greystone Inn 220 Greystone Lane (828) 966-4700 B, L, D, SB n n n NC n n 4 Slab Town Pizza 45 Slab Town Road (828) 743-0020 L, D n n C n n 76 The Ugly Dog Pub 25 Frank Allen Road (828) 743-3000 L, D, SB n n n n C n n n 81 Zookeeper 45 Slabtown Road (828) 743-7711 B, L, SB n C n n 74 SAPPHIRE/TOXAWAY AREA RESTAURANTS The Fix 3093 Hwy 64 East, Sapphire D OPENING IN THE SPRING 73

B Breakfast L Lunch D Dinner SB Sunday Brunch * Takeout Only Dress Code: C Casual NC Nice Casual J Jacket

HIGHLANDS AREA RESTAURANTS 4th Street Market - (828) 526-4191 Asia House - (828) 787-1680 Bella’s Junction Cafe - (828) 526-0803 Black Bear Restaurant - (828) 482-7020 The Blue Bike Cafe - (828) 526-9922 Bridge at Mill Creek (828_ 526=5500 Bryson’s Deli - (828) 526-3775 The Cake Bar - (828) 421-2042 Dusty’s - (828) 526-2762 El Azteca - (828) 526-2244 Fressers Courtyard Cafe - (828) 526-4188 Highlander Mountain House - (828) 526-2590 Highlands Burritos - (828) 526-9313 Highlands Deli/SweeTreats - (828) 526-9632 Highlands Smokehouse - (828) 526-3554 Los Vaqueros Mexican Restaurant - (828) 482-7040 Lakeside Restaurant - (828) 526-9419 Madison’s Restaurant - (828) 787-2525 Meritage Bistro (828) 526-1019 Midpoint (828) 526-2277 Mountain Fresh - (828) 526-2400 Paoletti’s - (828) 526-4906 Pizza Place - (828) 526-5660 Rosewood Market - (828) 526-0383 Ruffed Grouse (828) 526-2590 Subway - (828) 526-1706 Tug’s Proper - (828) 526-3555 Wild Thyme Gourmet - (828) 526-4035

CASHIERS AREA RESTAURANTS Buck’s Coffee Cafe - (828) 743-9997 Canyon Kitchen - (828) 743-7967 Cashiers Farmers Markket (828) 743-4334 Chile Loco - (828) 743-1160 Cornucopia Restaurant - (828) 743-3750 Cork & Barrel Lounge - (828) 743-7477 El Manzanillo - (828) 743-5522 The Falls Cafe and Grill - 828-877-3322 JJ’s Eatery and Canteen - (828) 743-7778 The Library Kitchen and Bar - (828) 743-5512 Mica’s Restaurant - (828) 743-5740 Mountain Cafe - (828) 577-0469 Panthertown Cafe LLC (828) 862-366 Sapphire Mountain Brewing Company - (828) 743-0220 Subway - (828) 743-1300 Slopeside Tavern - (828) 743-8655 Table 64 - (828) 743-4135 Town and Country General Store Deli - (828) 547-1300 Villa Amato (828) 885-7700 Wendy’s - (828) 743-7777 Whiteside Brewing Company - (828) 743-6000 Winslow’s Hideaway - (828) 743-2226 s

thelaurelmagazine.com/lodging

Plateau Lodging

Accommodations on the Highlands Cashiers Plateau

HOTELS / MOTELS / BED & BREAKFASTS

On Site Restaurant On Site Bar/Lounge Pool Whirlpool Rooms Exercise Facility In Room Microwave/Fridge Cable/Satellite TV Banquet Facilities Wireless Internet Pet Policy Ad On Page

Black Bear Lodge of Sapphire 19386 Rosman Hwy | Sapphire blackbearlodgeofsapphire.com | (828) 553-6535 n n n n 28

Fire Mountain 700 Happy Hill Rd | Scaly Mountain firemt.com | (800) 775-4446 n n n n n n 15

Greystone Inn 220 Greystone Ln | Lake Toxaway thegreystoneinn.com | (828) 966-4700 n n n n n n 4

Hotel Cashiers 7 Slab Town Road | Cashiers hotelcashiers.com | (828) 743-7706 n n n n n 116

Old Edwards Inn and Spa 445 Main St | Highlands oldedwardsinn.com | (866) 526-8008 n n n n n n n n n 45

Skyline Lodge 470 Skyline Lodge Rd | Highlands skyline-lodge.com n n n n n n 70

VACATION RENTAL AGENCIES

Berkshire Realty Vacation Rentals 488 Main Street | Highlands meadowsmountainrealty.com | (828) 526-1717

Chambers Realty & Vacation Rentals 401 N 5th St | Highlands highlandsiscalling.com | (828) 526-3717

Landmark Vacation Rentals 17 US Hwy 64 E | Cashiers landmarkvacations.com | (877) 926-1780 63

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111

Rent in Highlands - CCP 507 Main Street | Highlands rentinhighlands.com | (800) 684-2171 x 302 83

Silver Creek Vacation Rentals 341 Hwy 64 W, Ste 102 | Cashiers ncliving.com | (828) 743-1999 48

CASHIERS, NC: High Hampton Resort - (800) 648-4252 Hotel Cashiers - (828) 743-7706 The Lakehouse - (904) 753-0247 Landmark Vacation Rentals- (877) 926-1780 Mountain Vacation Rentals - (828) 743-0258 The Orchard Guest Cottage - (828) 743-7614 Pebble Creek Village - (828) 743-0623 Reid Resort Rentals - (828) 743-5955 Silver Creek Vacation Rentals - (828) 743-1999 The Wells Hotel A Cashiers Experience - (828) 761-6289

GLENVILLE, NC: Innisfree Bed & Breakfast - (828) 743-2946 Mountain Lake Rentals - (828) 743-6875 Prime Property Rentals - (828) 743-3482

HIGHLANDS, NC 200 Main - (855) 271-2809 Berkshire Realty Vacation Rentals - (828) 526-1717 Chambers Realty & Vacation Rentals - (828) 526-3717 The Chateau - (561) 613-1496 Fairview House - (866) 526-8008 Half Mile Farm - (855) 271-7246 Highlander Mountain House - (828) 526-2590 Highlands House Bed and Breakfast - (828) 787-1186 Highlands Inn - (828) 526-9380 Highlands Inn Lodge - (828) 526-5899 Highlands Resort Rentals - (828) 526-5839 The Inn at Mill Creek - 828-526-9999 The Lodge at Old Edwards - (828) 787-2560 Lullwater House - (423) 488-2799 Mitchell’s Lodge & Cottages - (828) 526-2267 Old Edwards Inn and Spa - (866) 526-8008 Park on Main - (800) 221-5078 Ray’s Roost - (678) 534-6870 Rent in Highlands - CCP - (800) 684-2171 x 302 Rockwood Lodge - (828) 526-8919 The Wells Hotel - (828) 482-7736 Whiteside Cove Cottages - (828) 526-2222 SAPPHIRE, NC Black Bear Lodge of Sapphire - (828) 553-6535 Club Wyndham Resort at Fairfield Sapphire Valley - (828) 743-3441 Foxhunt At Sapphire Valley - (828) 743-7667 Hampton Inn & Suites - Cashiers-Sapphire Valley - (828) 743-4545 Mt Toxaway Lodge & Motel - (828) 966-4582 Sapphire Run at Whisper Lake - (863) 412-5734 Whispering Falls - (352) 470-4085 Woods at Buc - (770) 714-9211

SCALY MOUNTAIN, NC: Fire Mountain - (800) 775-4446 The Vineyard at 37 High Holly - (828) 505-6190

LAKE TOXAWAY, NC Cabins at Seven Foxes - (828) 877-6333 Greystone Inn - (828) 966-4700 Lake Toxaway Realty Company - (828) 508-9141

DILLARD, GA: Julep Farms - (706) 960-9600

photo by Charles Johnson