Celebrating our flourishing food and drink sector

Scotland’s natural environment is the foundation of our thriving food and drink sector, and this could not be truer anywhere than it is in the Highlands and Islands. Farmers, fishermen and producers from the region have an abundant and enviable larder to share.

Today, tourists and locals across Scotland can feast on the freshest langoustines, mussels and salmon; they can savour the choicest cuts of beef, lean venison, rare breed pork and lamb. Locally sourced, in-season produce is hero-ed on menus in restaurants across the country. Shops are bursting with locally grown vegetables and locally produced cheese, chutneys, jams and biscuits. The drinks scene is equally vibrant, offering everything from peaty Islay whiskies and Highland malts to artisan gin and craft beer.

Although our larder has long been this plentiful, it hasn’t always been so accessible – and nationally we haven’t always made the most of it. The Scottish artisan food and drink industry has responded to the increasing demand from countries around the globe for quality produce with strong provenance. Locally we have reconnected with our producers and products during lockdown, and this has rekindled an enjoyment of local food and drink on our doorstep. Regional food groups play a key role in helping local producers showcase and sell their produce at home and further afield.

SUPPORTING AND INSPIRING SUCCESS

Last year, industry leadership body Scotland Food & Drink, with the backing of the Scottish Government, launched a new £250,000 fund to support the ongoing development of Scotland’s regional food groups. This is a key action in the national Food & Drink Recovery Plan which was launched in November 2020. The impact of COVID-19 has been serious, with up to £3bn of revenue estimated to have been lost from the industry in 2020. The recovery plan aims to go beyond recouping those losses, acting as a springboard to a more resilient and stronger future. The recovery plan is driven by the Scotland Food & Drink Partnership, a unique collaboration between industry organisations, Scottish Government and its enterprise agencies, including HIE. Today, there are 18 regional food groups across the country, including seven in the Highlands and Islands, all looking to celebrate and support local food and drink and put their produce firmly on the map. The groups bring together producers, retailers, hospitality and tourism businesses and other stakeholders. They help promote regional food, encourage people to shop local and develop food tourism events and projects, as well as supporting initiatives to create new opportunities or to problem-solve common issues. Fiona Richmond, head of regional food at Scotland Food & Drink, says: “Regional food groups have a pivotal role to play in the successful growth and development of Scotland’s food, drink and food tourism sectors, especially in the recovery from COVID-19.”

Fiona Richmond “The Highlands and Islands has a diverse mix of regional food groups with energy, ambition and a commitment to championing their local areas. By providing funding and industry support we hope to strengthen the growing network of groups, encouraging visitors and locals alike to enjoy the incredible produce of Scotland’s most exciting food and drink regions.”

REGIONAL FOOD GROUPS IN THE HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS

While each regional group has its own distinct identity, very much led by the area’s unique challenges and opportunities, they all exist to enhance both the local economy and community, and they all put a strong emphasis on collaboration. Some of these groups are just beginning to take root, whereas others have been doing good work for many years and have had a proven impact on the region. One of the longest-running regional groups is Orkney Food & Drink, which has been celebrating the fabulous produce of Orkney for almost 30 years. It brings together local retailers, cafes, hotels and producers to support their sectors and the local economy, and to spread the word about their products locally, nationally and internationally. The islands have a truly diverse range of award-winning food and drink products, and the producers are fiercely proud of what they have to offer. Another well-established group is Food from Argyll, which since 2007 has been helping its members to build their businesses. Argyll is famed for its seafood, but it’s also home to quality dairy, beef and lamb, as well as an expanding group of members who bake, roast, cure, smoke and grow a wide range of products. Food from Argyll has showcased the region’s products to a wide audience by collaboratively catering at major events and by operating its own café. Founded in 2016, Eat Drink Hebrides is a food and drink trail from Barra to the Butt of Lewis with a focus on the food tourism experience. The group is dedicated to helping visitors learn more about the landscape and culture of the islands, while sampling the fantastic food and drink that’s readily available there.

EMERGING GROUPS

New regional food groups are emerging, keen to support, encourage and develop their unique food and drink offerings. Arran’s Food Journey is a newly formed group which aims to tell the island’s food story. Together, members tell historical tales of farming, illicit stills and smugglers, to that of the modern-day production of cheese, biscuits and ice-cream. They encourage visitors to sample their produce by visiting the island, showcase their members and products globally on their website and share recipes online from local producers and the hospitality sector. Bute Kitchen is a collaboration of island food industry entrepreneurs, from the farmers and smallholders growing and producing crops, dairy and livestock, to cheese makers and butchers. Collectively they are supporting the economic growth of the Isle of Bute through its plentiful food and drink sector, raising the island’s profile as a food tourism destination, supporting a range of businesses to flourish, and encouraging consumers to champion local products. On the mainland, the Highland Good Food Partnership is emerging, focused on creating a local food system that’s better for the planet, people and producers. They began with a conference that focused on a series of conversations, or ‘provocations’, early in 2021. Over 90 local doers and thinkers came together to stimulate new thinking about food issues, leading to a collaborative action plan for the future. As we emerge from the pandemic it is both exciting and heartening to see how these grassroots regional food and drink groups, all with their own distinct products and personalities, will play an important part in our nation’s economic recovery.

THE BLOSSOMING SHETLAND FOOD AND DRINK SCENE

The beautiful Shetland Islands, some 110 miles offshore from mainland Scotland, are home to a bountiful natural larder. Their pristine waters teem with the finest fish and shellfish – with almost half of all fish landed in the UK caught within 100 nautical miles of Shetland. The acclaimed native Shetland lamb is reared on the heather moorland, along with quality beef. Small artisan producers across the isles all contribute to the rich quality of food and drink on offer in the islands. Some years ago, two Shetlanders realised they weren’t fully capitalising on the natural riches they were blessed with. So in 2017, Shetland Food and Drink Limited was born – thanks to the drive and passion of chair Marian Armitage and previous manager Jill Franklin. The collective operates under the Taste of Shetland marketing banner. Shetland Food and Drink has recently been awarded a package of just under £150,000 in funding to secure its future until 2023, from Shetland Islands Council (SIC), HIE and – for the first time – a contribution from Scotland Food & Drink.

“We are delighted to have this funding confirmed,” says Marian. “It puts Shetland Food and Drink on a firm footing for the next three years. We are very grateful to the SIC and HIE for their backing, and it’s exciting to be working with Scotland Food & Drink for the first time as a recognised regional food group.”

PEOPLE MAKE IT HAPPEN

Much of the success of the regional food and drink groups is down to the motivation and commitment of the people involved – and Shetland Food and Drink is no different.

Manager Claire White is a former BBC producer and presenter, a proud Shetlander, and passionate about storytelling – and she loves nothing more than sharing Shetland’s story with the world.

“The sense of community here is fierce,” explains Claire. “And the culture and history are preserved here in a way that can be missing on the mainland. I was so excited when I saw the job advertised. I’d been working in London, Aberdeen and Glasgow, and was ready to move back to Shetland. I’d been used to beating the drum for Shetland’s culture, roots and heritage around the UK and beyond – and food and drink is a major part of that”

“While doing my job, I see that there are so many food opportunities ripe for making the most of. It just needs the energy, enthusiasm and the endeavour to make it happen. We have such wonderful natural resources – and not just in food – and we just need to focus on how we can best market them to the world. “Shetland has had a robust economy for over 40 years and the more we look to diversify, then the healthier it is for everybody. It will make us stronger economically, socially and culturally, and that has to be a good thing for any island group.” Members of Shetland Food and Drink now number 85 and are rapidly growing, and they aren’t simply the producers, makers and growers. Amongst their number they also count a communications company, an accountant, local shops, and tourist guides who run food and drink tours, for example. “These types of members all prop up the industry across Shetland – like everything else in the islands, far-reaching community roots shape the platform,” says Claire. “In our rural community, we rely on all our small businesses. We always promote shopping local, and we’re currently campaigning against the expansion of a national chain here. We have a very rich supply chain, but it can be delicate and precarious. It’s in all of our interests to protect, preserve and promote what we have here. “If we create more good opportunities for each other, if we support each other, if we are positive about all kinds of sustainable enterprise, and we value community life, then that begets more of the same, and it becomes a virtuous cycle. I always say that Shetland is a place that gives back. Whatever you put into Shetland it will come back at you one way or another, multiplied and enhanced.” Although Shetland Food and Drink is still young, its achievements are already impressive, with constant new ideas and activities taking shape. Claire is currently leading work on a pioneering Quality Assurance scheme whereby those accredited will be able to print brand validation on menus and packaging. The team is constantly driving advancement and growth for all members and the community. For example, they have just secured funding from Shetland’s Crown Estate Fund to create a non-motorised Taste of Shetland trailer for members to hire and try out culinary ventures to see if they work before committing to costly new overheads. They’ve also just run an inspiring online Iceland-Shetland evening for members to hear from delegates such as the MD of Icelandic Lamb and a farmer who is utilising geothermal energy to grow tomatoes. The enthusiasm and passion of the members matches the exceptional quality of their produce, and there’s a real sense of energy and momentum from both members and the team. Shetland’s food and drink scene is set to be placed firmly on the map.

tasteofshetland.com

SPOTLIGHT ON THULE VENTUS

Thule Ventus uses traditional methods that have been handed down over generations to cure salt cod and other products sourced from Shetland’s waters.

One of the first members of Shetland Food and Drink, Thule Ventus founder David Polson could see a clear need for a platform to help Shetland support and promote its food and drink industry. “I was looking at other areas of Scotland, particularly Orkney, and how they developed their food industry,” says David. “Orcadian food producers have created a strong brand for the common good. This was lacking in Shetland but, like Orkney, we have excellent produce, heritage and a great story to tell.” The people of Shetland have been salting and curing fish for centuries, and David wanted to rejuvenate this traditional food for modern-day fish lovers. He believes that Taste of Shetland plays an important role in providing a quality mark and raising the profile of the island’s produce.

“Everything Shetland Food and Drink does is contributing to a growing awareness of Shetland products.” David explains.

“The continual drip feed into the media seeps into people’s consciousness that Shetland is here, and what we offer is exceptional. It contributes to a growing professionalism of the industry on the island – and creates a virtuous circle for us all.” https://thuleventus.co.uk/

SPOTLIGHT ON WHALSAY MADE

Whalsay Made produces quality homemade preserves, chutneys, fudge and sauce, using homegrown and locally sourced ingredients wherever possible.

Like so much else on Shetland, it’s all about community and connections. Donna Polson, founder of Whalsay Made, became a member of Shetland Food and Drink after hearing positive feedback from other members. Donna’s business is rooted in heritage, provenance and a sense of community, which perfectly reflects the Taste of Shetland ethos. As an individual business owner, Donna finds the support and networking opportunities invaluable, and in particular has benefited from the markets she’s been able to attend.

“Through my membership, I’m able to exhibit at many markets and festivals, such as the Taste of Shetland festival and Up Helly Aa,” says Donna. “We also booked a place at the Highland Show to showcase Shetland, though that was cancelled last year due to COVID. I make excellent sales and connections at these events, and it’s wonderful to put Shetland’s produce on the map.

Donna Polson

“We can also access excellent support in everything from media training to marketing strategies, and we’ve been kept up to date with regulations and guidance for opening after COVID, for example. It’s such a positive and collaborative group – I’ve made so many contacts and we share ideas and information among us. It takes me from being alone to being part of a huge, supportive network.”

www.whalsaymade.com

BUIDHNEAN BIDHE IS DEOCH SAN ROINN

Ged a tha dearbh-aithne sònraichte fhèin aig gach buidheann roinneil, gu mòr air a stiùireadh le dùbhlain agus cothroman sònraichte na sgìre, tha iad uile ann airson an eaconamaidh ionadail agus a’ choimhearsnachd a neartachadh. Tha iad uile a’ cur cuideam làidir air coobrachadh. Tha cuid de na buidhnean sin dìreach a’ tòiseachadh ach cuid eile air a bhith a’ dèanamh obair mhath airson grunn bhliadhnaichean agus tha iad air buaidh dhearbhte a thoirt air an sgìre. Is e buidheann à Arcaibh, aon de na buidhnean roinneil as fhaide a tha a’ ruith agus a’ comharrachadh toradh eireachdail Arcaibh airson faisg air 30 bliadhna. Bidh e a’ toirt còmhla luchd-reic, cafaidhean, taighean-òsta agus riochdairean ionadail gus taic a thoirt do na roinnean aca agus an eaconamaidh ionadail agus gus am facal a sgaoileadh mu na toraidhean aca gu h-ionadail, gu nàiseanta agus gu h-eadar-nàiseanta. Tha raon fìor eadarmheasgte de thoraidhean bidhe is deoch air na h-eileanan agus tha an riochdairean gu math moiteil às na tha aca ri thabhann. ’S e buidheann eile, Eat, Drink Outer Hebrides a tha na shlighe bidhe is deoch bho Barraigh gu Rubha Robhanais le fòcas air eòlas turasachd bidhe. Tha am buidheann dealasach a thaobh a bhith a’ cuideachadh luchd-tadhail gus barrachd ionnsachadh mu chruth-tìre agus cultar nan eilean agus iad a’ samplachadh biadh is deoch mhìorbhaileach a tha ri fhaighinn an sin. Air an tìr-mòr, tha Highland Good Food Partnership a’ nochdadh, le fòcas air siostam bìdh ionadail a chruthachadh a bhios nas fheàrr airson a’ phlanaid, daoine agus riochdairean. Thòisich iad le co-labhairt a bha a’ cuimseachadh air sreath de chòmhraidhean ann an 2021. Thàinig còrr air 90 daoine ionadail còmhla gus smaoineachadh ùr a bhrosnachadh mu chùisean bìdh, a’ leantainn gu plana gnìomh co-obrachail airson an ama ri teachd.

A FOCUS ON RECOVERY FOR FOOD AND DRINK

ELAINE JAMIESON, HEAD OF FOOD AND DRINK, HIE

The global reputation of food and drink from the Highlands and Islands is founded on our natural assets, it is steeped in our history and culture, and it economically sustains our rural communities.

Yet this iconic sector has been significantly impacted by changes beyond its control. The COVID-19 pandemic shook everything that seemed certain, Brexit disrupted access to markets, and the impacts of climate change on food systems cannot be ignored. The food and drink sector is surviving, but it is vulnerable. In recent months, HIE has been working with the private and public sectors through the Scotland Food and Drink Partnership to chart a route through to a new normal. The national recovery plan has secured £11m from Scottish Government to stimulate demand in key markets and to prepare businesses to capitalise on demand.

Through HIE’s broad geographical reach, we’re well informed to represent the challenges and growth ambitions of businesses from our region and to design and share information on new responsive national programmes. It is imperative that these programmes meet the needs of small and medium sized businesses and deliver outcomes where they are needed to make an immediate difference. We must play to our region’s strengths, focusing on our naturally productive environment, our positive attitude towards sustainable development, our culture of entrepreneurship, our young people and skilled workforces, our local communities, and our support infrastructure. We must confront conflict between the economy, the environment and society to identify new opportunities that climate-proof the region’s food production systems, whilst contributing to the longterm recovery, and overall health and wellbeing of our communities. During the last year we’ve seen inspiring examples of determination, collaboration, innovation and ambition. And, whilst great uncertainties remain, we must remember that economies and society are intertwined, and we all have a role to play in imagining and creating a prosperous and sustainable future for the food and drink sector in the Highlands and Islands.

LUSSA DRINKS: GROWING A GIN BRAND FROM THE GROUND UP

Lussa Drinks was established on the Isle of Jura in 2015 by three neighbours: Claire Fletcher, Georgina Kitching and Alicia MacInnes.

With opportunities for work for women limited on an island with a population of just over 200 people, the business started small from a kitchen table, but it had big ambitions from the outset: to create a premium gin on the Isle of Jura using botanicals that could be grown or foraged on the island.

L-R: Alicia Macinnes, Claire Fletcher and Georgina Kitching. Photo credit: Lussa Gin

“Since starting up, we’ve renovated an old stables building to house our distillery where we have ownership of the whole process from growing the botanicals to distilling and labelling,” explains Claire. “We’ve been recognised for our gin, for our business and our bottle design with several awards. We’re now selling around 10,000 bottles of Lussa Gin each year across the UK – online, from the distillery door, direct to trade, wholesale and export.” In October 2019, with support from HIE, Lussa Drinks attended the Showcasing Scotland event at Gleneagles, delivered in partnership between Scotland Food & Drink and Scottish Development International, and made contact with a large American buyer. Conversations continued after the event, and in March 2020, those conversations came good with an order placed for 10 pallets of Lussa Gin, the biggest single order the company has had to date. “As a result of that order, we received financial support from HIE to help us scale up quickly,” explains Claire. “We had to convert another outbuilding into a warehouse for extra storage and purchase new equipment and take on staff to increase capacity. We’ve also received a Digital Enablement Grant to increase our online offering and capture visitors to our website.” The partners are now talking to another importer about further export opportunities and are in the process of building a gin garden to improve the visitor experience for the summer. This year, they plan to double production and to cement the relationships that have been nurtured with their American customers.

“Without the help from HIE, we quite simply would have struggled to fulfil the order to the USA, and we would have missed a massive opportunity to grow our business,” adds Claire.

“HIE has been great at pointing us in the right direction for specialist advice on import and export, particularly with the triple whammy of Brexit, Christmas and COVID at the end of 2020. With the support available, and a lot of hard work, we’re looking to the future with a good degree of positivity.” Lussa Drinks are also about to embark on an exciting new initiative. The Academy is a unique training programme, delivered by the Scotland Food & Drink Partnership, to help Scottish producers sell themselves, build their brands and thrive in grocery and foodservice markets. There are three distinct programmes: Seeding Growth, Accelerating Growth and Commercial Excellence to suit businesses at different stages of their growth. Lussa Drinks are amongst the first cohort of businesses to take part in the Accelerating Growth programme to help them scale up and meet the increasing demand for their gin.