2–3 HYDRAULIC CONTROL VALVE

Important

When making repairs on hydraulic system, clean the work area before disassembly and keep all parts clean. Always use caps and plus on hoses, tbelines and ports to keepdirt out. Dirt can quickly damage the system.

I–2056–0793

Wear in the control valve or spools will cause the hydraulic cylinders to move when the controls are in the neutral position. Wear can also cause loss of hydraulic power.

To find an internal leak in the control valve, first check the condition of the cylinders. If the lift arm or tilt cylinder still move or extend after the cylinders are checked to be good, then check the control valve for the following:

1.Spool not centering in the valve section when the pedal is released. The spring can be broken or check the pedal linkage and adjust it so it will keep the spool in the neutral position.

2.Check for leaks in the valve because of wear or cracked valve body.

2–3.1 Relief Valve

Warning

Never work on a machine with the lift arms up unless the lift arms are secured by an approved lift arm support device. Failure to use an approved lift arm support device can allow the lift arms or attachment to fall and cause injury or death.

W–2059–0598

The tools listed will be needed to do the following procedure:

MEL–1003 – Hydraulic Tester

MEL–1006 – Hydraulic Test Kit

Warning

Checking the Relief Valve

Loader must be restrained for some service and repair. When balance of loader is changed by removal of lift arms or engine, or when it is necessary to rotate axles, jackstands should be put under both front axles and both rear corners of frame. Blocks by wheels can be climbed and do not stop loader.

W–2310–0398

1.Operate the loader until the fluid is at operating temperature.

2.Stop the engine.

3.Activate the auxiliary hydraulic control (right steering lever) to raise the hydraulic pressure.

3.Connect the hydraulic tester to the auxiliary quick couplers (Fig. 2–3).

The hydraulic tester must be in the fully open position before you start the engine.

4.Start the engine and run it atidle RPM.

5.Activate the auxiliary hydraulic control (right steering lever) to put pressure into the hydraulic tester (inlet port). Watch the flow on the hydraulic tester. Increase the engine RPM to maximum.

6.Turn the restrictor control on the tester to increase the pressure.

7.Read the pressure gauge. The pressure must be 1575–1675 PSI (10859–11549 kPa).

Removal of the Relief Valve

1.Stop the engine.

2.Activate the hydraulic controls to release the hydraulic pressure.

3.Raise the operator guard (See Paragraph 5–1.1, Page 5–1).

4.Clean the control valve area.

5.Remove the plug for the relief valve (Fig. 2–4).

6.You may have to use a magnet to remove the poppet from the control valve.

7.Clean and inspect the relief valves parts.

8.The shims (Fig. 2–5, Item 1) can be added or removed to get the correct pressure.

Installation of the Relief Valve

1.Install a new o–ring on the plug for the relief valve.

2.Install the seat, poppet, spring, shims and plug in the correct order (Fig. 2–5) or damage can occur to the hydraulic pump.

3.Check the hydraulic pressure again using the above procedure. If the pressure is not correct, add or remove the shims (Fig. 2–5, Item 1).

4.Lower the operator guard (See Paragraph 5–1.2, Page 5–1).

5.Remove the hydraulic tester and the jackstands from under the loader frame.

2–3.2 Removal of the Hydraulic Control Valve

Lift the loader and put jackstands under the frame so there is no danger of the loader falling and causing personal injury.

The tools listed will be needed to do the following procedure:

MEL–1074 – O–ring Seal Hook MEL–1190 – Magnet

1.Stop the engine.

2.Activate all the hydraulic controls to release the hydraulic pressure.

3.Raise the operator guard (See Paragraph 5–1.1, Page 5–1).

4.Remove the hydraulic/hydrostatic fluid from the reservoir (See Paragraph 1–5.3, Page 1–12).

5.Clean the area around the control valve. Always use caps or plugs when removing hoses or tubelines.

6.Remove the hose from the control valve (Fig. 2–6) which goes to the port block.

7.Disconnect the tilt linkage from the control valve (Fig. 2–7).

8.Loosen the lock nut at the auxiliary control rod at the steering levers (Fig. 2–8) so the linkage can be turned when it is removed from the valve.

9.Remove the hair pin and pin at the auxiliary linkage at the control valve (Fig. 2–9) and remove the linkage from the control valve.

10.Disconnect the lift linkage at the control valve (Fig. 2–10).

11.Disconnect all the tubelines from the control valve (Fig. 2–11).

12.Remove the tire and wheel assembly at the right rear of the loader.

13.Remove the two (2) bolts from the control valve (Fig. 2–12).

14.Remove the hydraulic control valve from the loader (Fig. 2–13).

2–3.3

Important

1.Clean the control valve before disassembly. Mark each spool before disassembly so they will go back to their original bore.

2.Remove the orifice from the lift section of the control valve (Fig. 2–14).

3.Put the control valve inthe vise.

4.Loosen the auxiliary section end cap (Fig. 2–15).

5.Remove the auxiliary section spool (Fig. 2–16).

6.Loosen the lift section end cap (Fig. 2–17).

7.Remove the lift section spool (Fig. 2–18).

9.Remove the tilt section spool (Fig. 2–20).

10.Remove the o–rings from the control valve (Fig. 2–21).

11.Loosen the end cap for therelief valve (Fig. 2–22).

12.Remove the end cap and spring from the relief valve bore. Be careful not to lose any of the shims in the end cap (Fig. 2–23).

13.Use a magnet and remove the relief valve poppet from the bore (Fig. 2–24).

14.Use the special tool and remove the seat from the control valve (Fig. 2–25).

15.If the detent mechanism is not disassembled, remove the o–ring over the valve spool lands (Fig. 2–26).

2–3.4

NOTE:Only disassemble the detent mechanism if it is damaged or parts are broken.

1.To disassemble the detent mechanism, wrap cloth around the end cap and valve spool (Fig. 2–27). Pull the end cap off the valve spool. Be careful not to lose the balls from the detent when removing the cloth from the spool.

2.Remove the end cap from the detent bolt. Using a punch, loosen the detent bolt (Fig. 2–28) through the hole in the detent bolt.

3.Remove the dent bolt, spring and seat from the spool (Fig. 2–29).

4.The detent bolt for the lift spool has an o–ring installed at the end of the detent bolt (Fig. 2–30). Install a new o–ring before installing the bolt.

5.Install a new o–ring on the spool before assembling the detent mechanism.

6.When installing the detent spring and balls, use the following procedure:

(a)Install the spring in the hole of the detent bolt.

(b)Put grease on the ends of the spring and put the balls on the ends of the springs (Fig. 2–31).

(c)Push the end cap over the balls until they seat inside the end cap (Fig. 2–32).

2–3.5 Assembling the Hydraulic Control Valve

1.If the detent mechanism was not removed, carefully install a new o–ring over the three (3) valve spools (Fig. 2–33).

2.Install new o–rings in the three (3) bores for the spools of the control valve (Fig. 2–34).

3.Carefully install all three (3) spools in their correct locations (Fig. 2–35).

4.Tighten the end caps of the valve spools (Fig. 2–36).

5.Install the seat for the relief valve, using the special tool (Fig. 2–37) and tighten.

6.Install the poppet.

7.Install the spring and the end cap (Fig. 2–38). Make sure all the shims are in the end cap. Tighten the end cap.

8.Install the orifice in the lift section port of the control valve (Fig. 2–39).

9.Remove the plug (Fig. 2–40) and check the poppet and seat of the load check valves (Fig. 2–41). Replace parts as needed.

2–3.6 Installing the Hydraulic Control Valve

1.Install the control valve in the loader (Fig. 2–42).

2.Install the two (2) bolts in the control valve (Fig. 2–43) and tighten to 11–13 ft.–lbs. (15–18 Nm) torque.

3.Connect all the tubelines to the control valve (Fig. 2–44).

4.Connect the auxiliary linkage at the steering lever (Fig. 2–45). Adjust the linkage so the valve spool does not move when the steering lever is moved.

5.Connect all the linkages at the control valve (Fig. 2–46).

6.Connect the hydraulic hoses to the control valve and tighten (Fig. 2–47).

7.Add the correct fluid to the hydraulic/hydrostatic reservoir (See Section 8 for the correct fluid).

8.Install the tire and wheel assembly.

9.Lower the operator guard (See Paragraph 5–1.2, Page 5–1).

10.Remove the jackstands from under the loader frame.

Warning

Lift the loader and put jackstands under the frame so there is no danger of the loader falling and causing personal injury.

Important

Be careful when turning the flow control valve. When the tester is connected this way, there is no relief valve in the system. DO NOT close the valve (on the tester) all the way.

Checking Output of the Hydraulic Pump

This test will determine the acceptable flow of the hydraulic pump. A hydraulic tester is required that will measure flow, temperature and pressure.

NOTE:Make sure that all the air is removed from the system before beginning the test. Air in the system can give an inaccurate test.

1.Stop the engine.

2.Raise the operator cab (SeeParagraph 5–1.1, Page 5–1).

3.Remove the hose between the outlet of the hydraulic pump and the inlet of the hydrauliccontrol valve.

4.Connect the inlet of the tester to the outlet of the hydraulic pump [A]

5.Connect the outlet of the tester to the inlet of the hydraulic control valve.

NOTE:Make sure that the restrictor valve on the tester is fully open.

6.Start the engine and run at low RPM. If no flow is indicated on the tester, the hoses are connected backwards.

7.Increase the engine RPM to full RPM.

8.Warm the hydraulic fluid to 140°F (60°C) by turning the restrictor knob on the tester to about 1000 PSI (6895 kPa). Do not exceed system relief pressure.

9.Open the restrictor on the tester andrecord the free flow (GPM) at full RPM.

10.Disconnect any attachment from the auxiliary quick couplers and operate the auxiliary control lever. Record the high pressure (PSI) and the flow (GPM) at full RPM.

11.The high pressure flow must be at least 80% of free flow.

HIGH PRESSURE FLOW (GPM)

% = X 100 FREE FLOW (GPM)

12.A low percentage may indicate a failed hydraulic pump, or air in the system.

*Make reference to your Model loader, in the Technical Service Guide, for the system relief pressure and full RPM specifications. The system relief pressure must be per specification before the test is run.

2–4.2 Removal of the Hydraulic Pump

When making repairs on the hydraulic system, keep all parts clean and remove the dirt from the area. Use caps and plugs to keep debris out of the tubelines or ports.

1.Remove the hydraulic/hydrostatic fluid from the reservoir (See Paragraph 1–5.3, Page 1–12).

2.Remove the front panel.

3.Remove the hydraulic hose from the pump [B]

4.Remove the port block from the pump (See Paragraph 3–5.1, Page 3–8).

5.Remove the two (2) bolts which hold the hydraulic pump to the hydrostatic pump [C]

6.Remove the hydraulic pump from the hydrostatic pump (Fig. 2–51).

7.Remove the o–ring from the pump (Fig. 2–52).

2–4.3

1.Put the hydraulic pump in the vise with the bolts in the up position.

2.Put a mark across the body of the pump for correct assembly.

3.Loosen the four (4) bolts on the pump (Fig. 2–53).

4.Remove the four (4) bolts from the pump (Fig. 2–54).

5.Remove the end plate (Fig. 2–55).

6.Remove the spring (Fig. 2–56).

7.Remove the o–ring (Fig. 2–57).

8.Remove the valve plate (Fig. 2–58).

9.Remove the cam ring (Fig. 2–59).

10.Remove the dowel pins (Fig. 2–60).

11.Remove the rotor and vanes (Fig. 2–61).

12.Remove the o–ring (Fig. 2–62).

1.Clean all the parts.

2.Check the cam ring surface (Fig. 2–63).

3.Check the rotor and splines (Fig. 2–64).

4.Check the vanes for the rotor (Fig. 2–65).

5.Check all the parts for wear, scratches and other damage. Replace the parts as needed.

NOTE:Install new o–rings and put oil on all the parts during assembly.

1.Put the pump body in the vise.

2.Install the pump body o–ring (Fig. 2–66).

3.Install the rotor on the pump body (Fig. 2–67) and install the vanes in the rotor with the rounded edge of each vane toward the outside of the pump.

4.Install the dowel pins (Fig. 2–68).

Fig. 2–67 Installing Rotor

B–05295

Fig. 2–68 Installing Dowel Pins

5.Install the cam ring over the rotor (Fig. 2–69). Make surethe arrow on the housing points in the direction of the pump rotation.

B–05291

6.Install the valve plate (Fig. 2–70).

Fig. 2–69 Installing Cam Ring

Fig. 2–70 Installing Valve Plate

B–05293

7.Install the o–ring (Fig. 2–71).

B–05281

8.Install the spring (Fig. 2–72).

Fig. 2–71 Installing O–ring

Fig. 2–72 Installing Spring

B–05292

9.Install a new o–ring in the pump end plate (Fig. 2–73).

B–05288

10.Install the end plate (Fig. 2–74).

Fig. 2–73 Installing O–ring

Fig. 2–74 Installing End Plate

B–05282

B–05280

11.Install the four (4) bolts and tighten (Fig. 75).

2–4.6 Installing the Hydraulic Pump

1.Install a new o–ring in the mounting flange of the hydraulicpump (Fig. 2–76).

2.Install the hydraulic pump on the hydrostatic pump (Fig. 77).

3.Install the two (2) bolts and tighten (Fig. 2–78).

4.Install the port block (See Paragraph 3–5.2, Page 3–8).

5.Install the hose at the hydraulic pump.

6.Install the front panel.

2–4.7 Start–Up Procedure for the Hydraulic Pump

1.Add fluid to the hydraulic/hydrostatic reservoir as needed (See Section 8for the correct fluid).

Warning

2.Start the engine and run it at half engine RPM with no hydraulics engaged for several minutes.

3.Operate the hydraulic control valve to build up pressure at 3 second intervals for several minutes.

4.Increase the engine speed to full RPM and repeat step 3.

5.Slow the engine RPM to an idle and stop the engine. Check for leaks.

6.Check the hydraulic/hydrostatic reservoir. Add fluid as needed.

7.Lower the operator guard (See Paragraph 5–1.2, Page 5–1).

8.Remove the jackstands from under the loader frame.

2.5 LIFT CYLINDERS

2–5.1 Checking the Lift Cylinders

NOTE:The maximum cylinder drift allowed is 1.3” (33 mm) in 10 minutes with no bucket or attachment.

1.Lower the lift arms all the way down. Stop the engine. Activate all the hydraulic controls to release the hydraulic pressure.

Warning

2.Open the rear door.

3.Disconnect the hose from the tubeline which goes to the base end of the lift cylinder (Fig. 2–79 & 2–80). Install the plug in the tubeline.

4.Start the engine. Push the top (toe) of the lift pedal.

5.If there is oil leakage from the hose remove the cylinder or cylinders and make repairs as needed (See Paragraph 2–5.3).

6.Connect the hose or hoses and tighten them.

7.Close the rear door.

8.Remove the jackstands from under the loader frame.

2–5.2 Removing the Lift Cylinder

1.Install the lift arm stop in the lift cylinder that is NOT GOING TO BE REMOVED. You can remove only one lift cylinder at a time using this method.

(a)Two persons are needed to install the lift arm stop. One person must be in the operator seat with the seat belt fastened until the lift arm stop is installed.

(b)Start the engine and raise the lift arms all the way up.

(c)Have the second person install the lift arm stop over the rod of one cylinder (Fig. 2–81).

NOTE:Make sure the lift arm stop is tight against the cylinder rod.

(d)Lower the lift arms until the stop is held between the lift arms andthe lift cylinder.

(e)Stop the engine.

2.Activate the hydraulic controls to release the hydraulic pressure.

3.Raise the operator guard (See Paragraph 5–1.1, Page 5–1).

4.Open the rear door.

5.Disconnect the hoses at the base end of the cylinder (Fig. 2–82).

Lift Arm Stop

6.Remove the locknut and the bolt at the rod end of the cylinder (Fig. 2–83).

7.Remove the pivot pin (Fig. 2–84). Make sure to support the lift cylinder when removing the pivot pin.

8.Remove the locknut and the bolt at the base end of the cylinder (Fig. 2–85).

9.Remove the pivot pin (Fig. 2–86).

10.Remove the lift cylinder from the loader.

NOTE:This procedure can be used for both the lift and tilt cylinders. The tools listed will be for either the tilt or lift cylinder.

The tools listed will be needed to do the following procedure:

MEL–1075 – Gland Nut Wrench MEL–1076 – Cylinder Wrench

NOTE:The photos in the figures may not be exactly the same as the cylinder you are working on.

1.Put the base end of the cylinder in a drain pan and move the rod in and out to remove the oil from the cylinder.

2.Put the base end of the cylinder in the vise.

3.Remove the end cap from the cylinder with the special tool (Fig. 2–87).

4.Remove the rod with the end cap and piston from the cylinder (Fig. 2–88).

5.Remove the cylinder housing from the vise.

6.Put the rod end in the vise and remove the nut (Fig. 2–89).

7.Remove the piston from the rod (Fig. 2–90).

8.Remove the o–ring (Fig. 2–91).

9.Remove the end cap from the rod (Fig. 2–92).

10.Remove the o–ring and back–up washer from the end cap (Fig. 2–93).

11.Remove the wiper seal from the end cap (Fig. 2–94).

12.Remove the oil seal (Fig. 2–95).

13.Remove the teflon seal from the piston (Fig. 2–96).

14.Remove the o–ring on the piston (Fig. 2–97).

15.Wash all the parts in solvent. Dry with air only. Destroy old seals and o–rings.

2–5.4 Assembly of the Hydraulic

The tools listed will be needed to do the following procedure:

MEL–1032–Rod Seal Tool

MEL–1008–Seal Installation Tool (2”)

MEL–1009–Seal Installation Tool (3”)

MEL–10579–Cylinder Hone (2”)

MEL–10064–Cylinder Hone (3”)

1.Make an inspection of the parts for scratches, nicks, bent, etc. Replace parts as needed.

2.Install the piston over the tool (Fig. 2–98).

3.Install the o–ring on the piston using the tool (Fig. 2–99).

4.Install the teflon seal over the tool and on the piston (Fig. 2–100).

NOTE:To prevent damage to the teflon seal, do not turn it into the piston groove.

5.Install the piston into the tapered end of the tool (Fig. 2–101) to get the teflon seal to the piston size diameter. Leave the piston in the tool for 5 minutes so that the teflon seal will become the correct size.

6.Install the wiper seal with thelip toward the outside of the end cap (Fig. 2–102).

NOTE:The o–ring side of the oil seal goes toward the inside of the cylinder.

7.Install the oil seal on the rod seal tool (Fig. 2–103).

8.Install the oil seal in the end cap (Fig. 2–104).

9.Install the back–up washer (Fig. 2–105).

10.Install the o–ring (Fig. 2–106).

11.Put oil on the wiper seal and install the cap on the shaft (Fig. 2–107).

12.Install the o–ring on the shaft (Fig. 2–108).

13.Remove the piston from the tool and install the piston on the shaft (Fig. 2–110).

Fig. 2–106 Installing O–ring

B–03681

Fig. 2–107 Installing End Cap

14.Install the nut and tighten to 195–205 ft–lbs. (264–278 Nm) torque (Fig. 2–110).

15.Inspect the cylinder bore for scratches. Use a hone to clean up the cylinder hone.

16.Put oil on theseals, o–rings and end cap threads (Fig. 2–111).

17.Install the assembly in the cylinder housing (Fig. 2–112).

18.Tighten the end cap with the special tool (Fig. 2–113).

19.Push the cylinder rod in andout the full length of the cylinder housing. It must travel freely through the full stroke of the cylinder with no binding.

Fig. 2–108 Installing O–ring

B–03693

Fig. 2–109 Installing Piston

B–03685

B–03692

B–03670

1.Install the lift cylinder in the loader.

B–03665

Fig. 2–113 Tighten End Cap

B–03691

B–05025

2.Install the pin in the base endof the lift cylinder (Fig. 2–114).

3.Lift the rod end of the cylinder up into the lift arms and install the pin.

4.Install the bolt and locknut in the rod end pin (Fig. 2–115).

5.Install the bolt and locknut in the pin at the base end of the cylinder (Fig. 2–116).

6.Connect the hydraulic hoses and tighten (Fig. 2–117).

7.Close the rear door.

8.Start the engine. Have a second person remove the lift arm stop.

9.Operate the lift arms, stop the engine and check for leaks.

10.Check the hydraulic/hydrostatic reservoir. Add fluid as needed.

2–6 TILT CYLINDER

2–6.1 Checking the Tilt Cylinder

1.Remove the bucket, roll the Bob–Tach fully backward and stop the engine. Activate the hydraulic controls to release the hydraulic pressure.

Lift the loader and put jackstands under the frame so there is no danger of the loader falling and causing personal injury.

2.Install the pin in the base endof the lift cylinder (Fig. 2–114).

3.Start the engine. Push the bottom (heel) of the tilt pedal.

4.If there is leakage from the hose, remove the tilt cylinder for repair (See Paragraph 2–6.2).

5.If there is no leakage, connect the hoses and tighten.

6.Remove the jackstands from under the loader frame.

2–6.2 Removing the Tilt Cylinder

1.Stop the engine.

2.Activate the hydraulic controls to release the hydraulic pressure.

3.Remove the locknut and bolt from the pin at the rod end of the cylinder (Fig. 2–119).

4.Remove the pin at the rod end of the cylinder (Fig. 2–120).

5.Disconnect the hoses from the tilt cylinder (Fig. 2–121).

6.Remove the locknut and bolt from the base end of the tilt cylinder (Fig. 2–122).

7.Remove the pin at the base end of the cylinder (Fig. 2–123).

8.Remove the tilt cylinder from the lift arms.

NOTE:When repairing the tilt cylinder, use the same procedure as when repairing the lift cylinders (See Paragraph 2–5.3). Always use new o–rings when repairing the tilt cylinder.

2–6.3 Installation of the Tilt Cylinder

1.Install the tilt cylinder in the lift arms.

2.Install the base end pin into the tilt cylinder to hold in position.

3.Install the bolt and locknut and tighten to 16–20 ft.–lbs. (22 –27 Nm) torque (Fig. 2–122).

4.Connect the hydraulic hoses to the tilt cylinder and tighten (Fig. 2–121).

5.Install the rod end of the tilt cylinder in the Bob–Tach frame.

6.Install the pin in the rod end of the tilt cylinder (Fig. 2–124).

7.Install the bolt and locknut and tighten to 16–20 ft.–lbs. (22–27 Nm) torque (Fig. 2–119).

8.Add grease to the grease fittings.

9.Start the engine and operate the tilt cylinder. Stop the engine and check for leaks.

10.Check the hydraulic/hydrostatic reservoir. Add fluid as needed (See Section 8 for the correct fluid).

2–7 HYDRAULIC/HYDROSTATIC RESERVOIR 2–7.1 Removing the Hydraulic/Hydrostatic Reservoir

1.Raise the operator guard (See Paragraph 5–1.1, Page 5–1).

2.Remove the harness bracket (Fig. 2–125).

3.Remove the fluid from the reservoir (See Paragraph 1–5.3, Page 1–12).

4.Disconnect the hose at the bottom of the reservoir (Fig. 2–126).

5.Remove the bolt holding the strap in position (Fig. 2–127).

6.Remove the hydraulic/ hydrostatic reservoir.

2–7.2 Installation of the Hydraulic/Hydrostatic Reservoir

1.Install the reservoir into the correct location.

2.Install the strap and tighten the bolt (Fig. 2–127).

3.Install the hose at the bottom of the reservoir (Fig. 2–126).

4.Install the harness bracket (Fig. 2–125).

5.Fill the reservoir with the specified fluid (See Paragraph 1–5.2, Page 1–11).

6.Lower the operator guard (See Paragraph 5–1.2, Page 5–1).

7.Start the engine and operate the hydraulic controls. Stop the engine and check for leaks.

8.Check the hydraulic/hydrostatic fluid and add as needed.

2–8 OIL COOLER

2–8.1 Removing the Oil Cooler (540)

1.Remove the hose clamp from the rear door (Fig. 2–128).

2.Disconnect the hoses from the elbow fittings at the oil cooler (Fig. 2–129 & 2–130). Install plugs in the hoses.

3.Remove the elbow fittings form the oil cooler and install plugs.

4.Remove the nuts that hold the air shrouding to the rear door (Fig. 2–131).

5.Remove the air shrouding from the rear door (Fig. 2–132).

6.Remove the oil cooler from the rear door (Fig. 2–133).

2–8.2 Installation of the Oil Cooler (540)

1.Install the oil cooler in the rear door. Make sure the oil cooler is pushed into the rubber mounting (Fig. 2–133).

2.Install the air shrouding overthe oil cooler (Fig. 2–132).

3.Install the nuts on the air shrouding and tighten (Fig. 2–131).

4.Remove the plugs from the oil cooler and install the elbow fittings in the oil cooler.

5.Remove the plugs from the hoses and connect the hoses to the oil cooler fittings and tighten (Fig. 2–129 & 2–130).

6.Install the hose clamp and tighten the nut (Fig. 2–128).

7.Start the engine and operate the loader. Stop the engine and check for leaks.

8.Check the hydraulic/ hydrostatic reservoir. Add fluid as needed.

2–8.3 Removing the Oil Cooler (543)

1.Remove the radiator from the loader (See Paragraph 7B–3.5, Page 7B–14).

2.Disconnect the hoses at the oil cooler (Fig.2–134 & 2–135).

3.Put plugs in the hoses (Fig. 2–136) and in the oil cooler fittings.

4.Remove the two (2) bolts at the rear of the oil cooler (Fig. 2–137).

5.Remove the two (2) bolts at the front of the oil cooler (Fig. 2–138).

6.Remove the oil cooler from the loader (Fig. 2–139).

2–8.4 Installing the Oil Cooler (543)

1.Install the oil cooler in the loader. Make alignment of the bolt holes (Fig. 2–139).

2.Install the front oil cooler bolts and tighten (Fig. 2–138).

3.Install the bolts in the oil cooler (Fig. 2–137) and tighten.

4.Remove the plugs from the hoses and the oil cooler and connect the hoses to the oil cooler (Fig. 2–134 & 2–135) and tighten.

5.Install the radiator in the loader (See Paragraph 7B–3.6, Page 7B–16).

6.Start the engine and operate the loader. Stop the engine and check for leaks.

7.Check the hydraulic/ hydrostatic fluid in the reservoir. Add fluid as needed.

2–9 10 MICRON FILTER BY–PASS VALVE

2–9.1 Removing the By–pass Valve

1.Remove the hydraulic filter.

2.Remove the hoses and the tubelines from the filter head.

3.Remove the filter head (Fig. 2–140) from the loader.

4.Put the filter head in a vise.

5.Remove the plug (Fig. 2–141) from the filter head.

6.Remove the spring and poppet (Fig. 2–142).

7.Check the poppet and the seating area for damage. Check the o–ring on the plug for damage.

2–9.2 Installation of the By–pass Valve

1.Install the by–pass valve into the filter head (Fig. 2–142) and tighten the plug (Fig. 2–141).

2.Install the filter head into the loader (Fig. 2–140).

3.Connect the hose and the tubeline to the filter head.

4.Install a new filter element on the filter head.

2–10 CONTROL PEDAL, LINKAGE AND LOCKS

2–10.1 Removing the Control Pedal

1.Stop the engine and lower the lift arms.

Lift the loader and put jackstands under the frame so there is no danger of the loader falling and causing personal injury.

2.Disconnect the linkage fromthe pedal (Fig. 2–143).

3.Remove the hair pins from the pivot pins (Fig. 2–144).

4.Remove the pedal from the pivot bracket.

5.Remove the bushing from the pedal.

2–10.2 Installing the Control Pedal

1.Using a vise, install a new bushing in the pedal (Fig. 2–145).

2.Start the pivot pins into the pedal (Fig. 2–146).

3.Put the pedal into the pivot bracket and push the pivot pins into position.

4.Install the hair pins (Fig. 2–144).

5.Connect the linkage at the pedal (Fig. 2–143).

2–10.3

Loosen the nuts (Fig. 2–147) and slide the pivot bracket backward or forward until there is 1 1/2” (38 mm) under the rear edge of the pedal (Fig. 2–148). Tighten the nuts to 25–28 ft.–lbs. (34–38 Nm) torque.

2–10.4

If you remove the pedal lock linkage, use the following procedure for installation:

5.Install the special nuts and plastic washers (Fig. 2–150). Make sure the special nut goes tight against the fender and thatthe plastic washers go over the shoulder of the special nut.

6.Tighten the special nut to 25 ft.–lbs. (34 Nm) torque.

7.Loosen the nuts on the tab (Fig. 2–151, Item 1). Put the pedalin the neutral position and tighten the nuts to 25 ft.–lbs. (34 Nm) torque.

Warning

Avoid Injury Or Death

Adjust locking tabs on pedal control linkage so that lift and tilt control pedals are locked in neutral when the seat bar is up.

W–2104–1285