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DUNELONDON.COM

CONTENTS 162

Editor's Letter 8 Allegra Shaw and her timeless brand: Uncle Studios: cover story 12

FASHION Apocalypse Romantique - editorial 22 Dreams Never End - editorial 32 Must Have: tutti i trend di stagione 44 Office Break - editorial 64 In the City - editorial 78 Modernism - editorial 90 BEAUTY Think Pink - editorial 102 Semplicity with fun: the beauty production for this fall/winter - 114 I See Red - editorial 128 ACCESSORIES The Accessories perfect guide for this fall/winter - 140 ART Ballroom - editorial 148 Beyond the Binary - editorial 160 Exhibitions not to be missed this fall winter 173 LIFE Minimalism - editorial 174 Distorted Perception - editorial 184 Real Experiences - editorial 196 EcoLuxury teach us how to solve the humanity problems with sustainable tourism - 208

EDITOR'S LETTER 198

assword: Dawn. Dawn, of course, understood as a new beginning. We have already experienced, so to speak, the post-pandemic characterised by fear, uncertainty, post-apocalyptic looks and warriors ready to brandish swords. But we have finally eviscerated enough and overcome, or so it seems, this terrible period. So we are ready for a return to normality, which can mean many things. Certainly in fashion there has been a complete turnaround that has brought many wearable looks without too many frills, close to a more sparkling and colourful side to celebrate the newfound serenity. In this issue we therefore take a journey together, also thanks to the editorial teams who participated, starting from this dawn. We therefore talk about everyday life, living in the city, smart working, the relationship with social networks and the relationship with our bodies. We also return to topics that are dear to us, such as climate change, sustainability in fashion, diversity and cultural elevation, and see how tourism could be an all-round answer to most of humanity's problems. Editor-in-chief Facebook: @marta.forgione Instagram: @martaforgione

Marta Forgione

DUNELONDON.COM

Allegra Shaw Allegra is our new cover girl, and she well represents many of the concepts I anticipated at the beginning of the issue (p. 9). Always passionate about fashion, she chose in 2017 to start her own brand with her partner, Shirin Soltani. Uncle Studios started with the idea of creating the perfect t-shirt, sustainably and well-made. As Allegra says: "that feeling of feeling so yourself, when you wear an outfit you really like". Now, Allegra and Shirin have expanded their horizons and create timeless pieces, the must-haves of any self-respecting wardrobe. But Allegra was already a powerful voice on the internet, with almost 1 million subscribers on her lifestyle and fashion YouTube channel. And although she is well acquainted with the ability of social networks to resonate, she is a down-to-earth girl in the truest sense of the word. She promotes contact with real life, outside the Internet. Sport, body care, yoga, meditation, reading, all things that can keep us attached to the real world but, above all, contact with other people. Now let's see what she told us about herself, what she thinks about fashion and sustainability, and her plans for the future.

Photography by Antonia MacBride Makeup, Hair Style Brittany Sinclair

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Apocalypse

Romantique The idea of the apocalypse has finally come to an end. Now it is time to move on. Forward as warriors, yes, but of the normal life we had before. Without terrible thoughts of the future. Without armour, machine guns or torn Mad Max-style clothes. We watch the sunset without fear of the future day. Without fear of sociality. We can look at it again like we used to, in a romantic way. Thinking about the future, hoping to get the job we studied so hard for, and getting that date with that person we like so much. It all sounds so trivial to say, but rediscovered normality is something that warms the soul and makes one sleep peacefully. So welcome back even to boredom, once in a while.

Photography Lucie Hugary at Le Crime Art Direction Polina Selina Fashion Editor, Style Giorgia Ferrari Style assistance Jessie Silver & Nastya Bezsonova Model Mary Duleu c/o Premium Models Makeup Jeanne Salord Hair Style Barthelemy Joris Set design Gilles Garnier Light design Just Meissonier Gaffer Alice Bencteux Electricians Clément Raynaud, Aristote Pham-Ba,Philomène Le Palud Key Grip Titouan Thomas Grip Loan Foulon

Dress 1 Juliette Berrod Dress 2 Filipe Augusto FW23 (Sheer Beige Dress) Black Knee-High Boots Yume Yume

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dreams never end Photography Ivan Jos Art Direction, Style Hauke Jakob Stark Model Paula c/o Agency Fifteen Minutes Assistance Anton Adam Emmerich Hair Style, Makeup Vanessa Cisullo

And so, after a well-discovered serenity, we can go back to dreaming, let our minds run wild and watch a new dawn rise. Let us talk about hope, that thing so fundamental to human beings. The one thing that keeps us connected to life, even in terrible times like the ones we have experienced. Because even though it is true that many artists have found fame and glory by telling of their misfortunes, this does not mean that it applies to everyone. Being relaxed allows you to put your best foot forward, and dreams really do need a lot of dedication to become achievable. So now onwards and upwards, there are no more excuses for anyone.

Top Prada Bag Eva Blut Trousers Haider Ackermann

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must have

Here we are back to our good and dear column dedicated to the trends of this coming autumn-winter but, above all, to our view on what will be the must-have pieces to have in your wardrobe at the start of the season. Many, during the last edition of the dedicated fashion weeks, were delighted to see the return of wearable, everyday fashion. This is not to say that nothing extravagant or quite sensual was seen, quite the contrary. But let's just say that the aura of post-apocalypticism that came with the pandemic has (finally?) been lost, and everything is starting to look more normal and less theatrical. In short, if, for example, we have seen metallic fabrics go crazy, let us imagine them more for appearing at a party or an event with special shoes, rather than corsets to go and fight a hypothetical enemy in the end of the world. So we return to a 'reassuring' normality, with the hope that we have learnt something at least in terms of environmental sustainability and respect for others (including animals). Speaking of colours, on the other hand, we have seen a great deal of total looks. Bright red is definitely THE must-have for this autumn/winter and will accompany us to the next social events, but don't be fooled by the many proposals in total grey. Don't just imagine office or daytime looks, let alone home outfits. Grey can be very elegant and very appropriate for the season. If you then combine it with a few hints of silver, it really won't lack anything. Next to the total looks we see, of course, Barbie pink literally going crazy. We all know why, don't we? But even if you haven't seen the film, even if you don't like the idea, even if you don't like the colour, know that this year you will literally have to find something that suits you. Maybe a mini-accessory, but you'll have to treat yourself. The bourgeois bon ton style is back in a big way, wearable and comfortable alongside various men's looks with thin ties. The wearability and comfort remains post-pandemic, but becomes more stylish. We see it in long, wide jackets covered with mega epaulettes, capes or witty jumpers matched, however, with precious skirts. Flowers are omnipresent especially in weaves and appliqués or on a dark background. At the neck we will have big bows, huge carry bags (even double ones) and really but really short shorts. F/W 2023 - '24

BLANKET JACKETS 4.

1. Let's start at the beginning, calmly. Let's start with the bed! Who wouldn't want to carry it around in the early morning chaos? We were talking about comfort, and here we are really in the climax with these huge jackets like blankets. Cosy, warm, feeling protected and relaxed comes naturally. But not too much, because as we were saying, the post-pandemic home look is finally behind us. So we go with a relaxed but stylish look, with transparent bodysuit by Silvia Tcherassi, loose jeans by Aje, mega mesh bag by Alaia and Balenciaga sunglasses, in true Gotham City style.

7. 1. The Row ivory francine coat seen on modaoperandi.com 2. Alaia black belted travel coat seen on modaoperandi.com 3. Aje wide leg jeans seen on modaoperandi.com 4. Alaia black xl bag seen on modaoperandi.com 5. Silvia Tcherassi backless bodysuit seen on modaoperandi.com 6. Bottega Veneta technical fishnet trainer seen on modaoperandi.com 7. Balenciaga sunglasses seen on modaoperandi.com

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Art Direction Leonie Sosnizki Photography, Post Production Mona Morali Models Romée van Haaften c/o Platform Agency Amsterdam & Anna Sennhenn Style Leonie Sosnizki & Walaa E. Hair Style, Makeup Brizan Robinson

Office Break Smart working is something that, although the pandemic has passed, has not left us. But has it really helped us? Because what looks all rosy often hides dangerous implications. In terms of expenditure, it certainly was and is convenient for certain sectors. That is, for offices and companies that have dependent employees. And for those employees, who obviously spend less on traveling to work and eating out. But many, many sectors have been squeezed by this radical change. Transport, take-away food, even clothing may be affected by the reduced purchases made by those who no longer have to go out to work. But it is not just about this. The mental health of those who stay indoors all the time in front of a screen is affected. We are made to be social animals, and without that sociality we become strange, problematic, gruff, suspicious and gullible. Life has to be lived live. Together with people.

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Cardigan Chanel Cruise Black Corset 2021 Pleated green Skirt Prada FW Esaú2015 Yori Shoes Dior 2001

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IN THE CITY And so we take back the city. We live it, share it with others, explore and discover it. We choose the clothes we like best, with comfortable shoes for walking. We rediscover our habits and the joy of a quick trip downtown. We go out. We walk, we stop at that café that makes the best cappuccino. We enter that shop of old books, its elderly owner has many stories to tell. We stop. We breathe in the early autumn air full of news for the new year. There is a new photo exhibition, we go inside to have a look. Everything that seems so normal, even banal, can be an opportunity for a smile and to unplug for a moment. And all those worries we carry around, let's leave them at home.

Photography Lukas Goldschmidt Style Olivier Mohrińge Model Diana Li c/o Mega Model Agency Hair Style, Makeup Sabrina Wolf c/o Bigoudi using Westmann Atelier, Charlotte Tilbury & Kevin Murphy

Turtleneck Body, Leggins Wolford Blazer Arket Bag Ferragamo Mules Balenciaga

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MODERNISM Photography DorotaGrzegorczyk Style KatarzynaMydlak Model Myroslava Vavrovska c/o Neva Models Makeup, Hair Style KingaWarakomska Light Assistance Norbert Stefanski

Like any self-respecting happy ending, there is a need for a little celebration. So green light to full colour like yellow or red, even in winter, and a bit of sparkle and eccentricity. And let's go out, finally, and have some fun. Soundtrack? Definitely this one: "That’s all they really want Some fun When the working day is done Girls – they want to have fun Oh girls just want to have fun" -Cindy Lauper

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Suit Robert Kupisz Cape Krystian Szymczak Earrings Tous Bag Vivienne Westwood

think

PINK

What if the top trend of the moment, Barbie pink, which is now all the rage in every sphere for obvious reasons, is not for us? Well, it is not obligatory to think of this colour associated with extremely feminine things. We could, instead, use it in contrast with other strong colours such as black, or interpret it in a more aggressive look. As in this case. In a cross between unbridled punk and a return to the scenes of Jem & the Holograms, this crazy makeup will certainly not make you go unnoticed. Or, if you prefer simpler makeup, you could choose to use this colour for your hair!

Creative Direction Dani Rull Photography Pedro Beraldo Hair Style, Makeup Susana Sanchez & Dani Rull For Dior Beauty Style Dani Davilla Model Ale Lizarra c/o Traffic Models Digital Art Haut Touch

Opposite: Vest Zadig & Voltaire | Earring Ylla Concept

Silk Blouse Maison Margiela Briefs BriefsWolford Wolfort Beret Utowo Boots Gianvito Rossi at Vestiaire Collective

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Beauty PRODUCTS for this fall/winter? The answer is

Semplicity with Fun As we have seen for clothing and accessories, beauty trends also follow more or less certain main strands, starting in the fashion weeks. For this autumn/winter on the catwalks there was a great return to normality, which brought with it a good deal of extremely natural make-up. Simplicity is essential if we are talking about busy days, so skin care is of great importance in order to be able to afford such nude looks. At the same time, the disappearance of the fear of the pandemic has also generated a great return of the desire to have fun and get noticed. Rightly so. Because after a week of hard work, we all want to go out and have a little bit of fun, don't we?

Creative Direction Dani Rull Photograhy Joaquin Burgueño Style Jou Martan Model Valèria K. c/o Traffic Models Makeup, Hair Style Dani Rull For Dior Beauty Makeup & Hair Assistance María Falcón Production Pop House Special Thanks The Mint Company

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We have seen how bold red and metallic fabrics were present in almost every collection, and here they also appear in bright red lip makeup and metallic details. Let's now look together at some buying tips and discover some new brands on the rise thanks to our column.

LATEST BEAUTY l mondo della cosmetica è ultimamente protagonista di un cambiamento molto lontano dall’essere

Foto by Daria Shevtsova

Smart Mirror - HiMirror

Bag Jacquemus p.114 p.59 p.97 p.133

I would say that by now there is no longer any doubt, Red is really THE trend colour for this fall-winter. Such a bold, difficult, flashy colour. But don't we deserve, perhaps, a little passion? After more than two pandemic years, in which 'seeing red' could mean nothing good, are we not entitled to flaunt it and desecrate it? This colour, so powerful, has always been important from art to fashion, and in all shades of life. And we need power now, to get back to life on the right foot. So yes to total looks in all its forms, including make-up and hair colours.

I See Red Photographer Ed Aked Makeup Chantal Amari using NARS Cosmetics, KORFF Cosmetics & AUGUSTINUS BADER Hair Style Daniel Moura using BUMBLE & BUMBLE Style Matthew Duffy Talents Lynn, Sahar & Cara c/o IMM Model Agency Jen & Olivia c/o Milk Collective

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BETWEEN RETURNING TO NORMALITY AND PARTY DESIRE

F/W 2024 accessories Accessories, like clothes, also followed maxi trends for this autumn winter 2023/'24. The return to normality led to a return to classic shapes. In particular, bon ton luxury prevailed. The logo in view, combined with the revisiting of various best sellers, shows us how brands want to play it safe with what has already worked well in the past. There were many men's looks in which, shoes aside, thin ties in 'Le Iene' style were omnipresent. Bright colours in full looks such as red and yellow, not usually present in winter collections, were a must to seal the post-pandemic cheerfulness. We can also use them in contrast, with coloured tights on duller looks. Sheer as in Miu Miu or more opaque, as in Gucci or Burberry. Impossible not to buy something in Barbie pink this year, we know why. And if you don't feel like a pink coat, then go for the accessories. Shoes, bags, jewellery, belts, sunglasses, the choice is vast and practically every brand has done its bit. Another real must-have of the season, ties aside? The gloves!

Alessandra Rich heart earrings | Aisha Baker diamond ring | Alaia pump slingback and heart bag | seen at Modaoperandi

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Creative Direction & Style Morgan Dildar Photography Omar Macchiavelli Hair Style Kevin D’amrosi Makeup Serena Polh Video Francesco Brembati Production Jet Set Production Style Assistance Giulio Di Gregorio & Veneranda Lamberti Hair Assistance Giuseppe Di Guglielmo Makeup Assistance Eleonora Bianucci, Carlo Mauro, Paola Barbera Models: Legendary Pioneer Italian Mother Bfujiko Ninja, Cesare Elle, Chuck Juicy Couture, Concetta Windowsen, Gian Gorgeous Gucci, Jasmine Elle, Italian Mother Kenji Juicy Couture, Kimora Balenciaga, Letizia Fiorucci, Moon Windowsen, Morgan Gorgeous Gucci, Sasha Balenciaga, Shy Ninja, T’ai 007, Trysha Juicy Couture

BALLROOM "CAN I SEE, JUST FOR ME…" is just the beginning of a sense of freedom. The editorial wants to give value and light to some of the representatives of the Italian Ballroom scene, through their own category and their own essence. Feminine, elegance, lines, stretch, pose and VOGUE to music in such a way as to imitate the characteristic poses struck by a model on a catwalk. The Ballroom Scene is an African/American and Latino underground LGBTQIA+ subculture that originated in New York City in the late 70’s . It is a multitude of categories in which people may participate trying to win trophies and get the statement in the scene. Most participants in Ballroom belong to groups known as “Houses”, where chosen families of friends form relationships and communities separate from their families of origin, from which they may be estranged, for the simple fact of wanting to be themselves.

From top: Latex Dress Alessandro Vigilante Latex Stocking FBLD Earring Dea Rail Blazer Dhruv Kapoor Brief, Garter Belt and Sonora boots LEONARDOVALENTINI Glasses Huma Eyewear

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Beyond the Binary We celebrate beauty as we desire it here: inclusive, fun, liberating. Where you are allowed to truly express yourself. You can experiment and go wild, show the world your true creative expression. Blurring the boundaries between male and female form, mixing male and female energies. Each image creates a unique story. We move from our self-constructed binary, which is harming so many people around the world, to a world of imagination and freedom, until gender no longer exists. And then everyone will have the right to live as they want and be as eccentric as they want. Each image here celebrates a unique story of our two energies and beauty beyond the binary.

Heart Necklace - Nikta Eliza Jacob Bodysuit - Norma Kamali Earrings - Area

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MINIMALISM Photography Victoria Huisman Style Neridah Twisto Model Ami Suzuki c/o Identity Models NYC Makeup Nana Hiramatsu using MAC Cosmetics Hair Style Kazuto Shimomura using Bumble and Bumble

Minimalism in fashion, but what does it really mean? Beyond an aesthetic factor, because having a minimalist look is something you have to like first and foremost, there is really a different lifestyle choice behind it. Having few but good pieces. This is something that now seems out of the question, because the general idea is that to be accepted you must have as many outfits as possible. About shoes, bags, coats. The more we have, the more we feel we are worth. And so clearly either you are rich, or you fall into fast fashion. But who said that having a lot means being a lot? How much 'richer' can you be if you respect the planet and buy consciously? Just one coat, but one that you know exactly where it comes from and how it was made. And also psychologically, even if it feels like the opposite, we feel better when we have a tidy wardrobe with only pieces we really like in it. Clothes that we care about and take care of.

Here & Opposite: Bomber Jacket Celine T-Shirt, Sneakers The Row Underwear Intimissimi Socks Comme Si

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distorted perception

Reality, hidden behind social media, has become distorted. We no longer have the real perception of things, we are losing ourselves behind fake smiles and ostentation. Beauty ideals are completely distorted behind disruptive makeup and contouring. Especially for the very young people this situation is dangerous because it generates a desire to appear, in everyday life, in an impossible way. It is not even a desire, but a belief that you must always be perfect. And we are not just talking about appearance, life and experience are also distorted. We are shown families where no one is ever tired or nervous or in a bad mood, perfect homes that look like furniture shops. Just think about it for a moment, we all know that this is just a facade. No family is perfect, no face is perfect, no body and no life. Let us start following more real people, and show some side of us that seems imperfect. We start to live more relaxed and enjoy what we have. In most cases, what we have is more than enough to be happy.

Photography Ansgar Sollman c/o Openspaceparis Style Marcella Verweyen HMU Andrea Young Using for Hair Oribe & for Makeup Typology Paris & Pat McGrath Model Ran Zhang c/o Tigers Management

Full Look Versace

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REAL EXPERIENCES Let us go beyond the digital, the social, the web and deal with real experiences. Let us touch, experience and build memories. Let us go beyond the concept of simple digital and digitised analogue photography, and play with what we can do with it, let us experiment with the real object which, in this case, is clothes. We start with the patterns and textures of fabrics and accessories. And finally, let's play with prints, tear them up, put them back together.

Photography Marta Mamoń Style Laura Caufapé Model Yulia Musieichuk c/o Izaio Management Makeup Ana Buvinic c/o Collectiveinterest

Dress Florentina Leitner

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ECOLUXURY':

sustainable tourism

LATEST PARADISE

We conclude this chapter of the magazine with our beloved column on eco-sustainable travel. The shadow of the Covid has disappeared and, with it finally, the fear of traveling. Exploring our planet is without a doubt the most beautiful thing you can do in life, and certainly the most enriching. In fact, traveling is considered the only thing in the world where you spend but come back richer than when you left. In the soul of course, not in the wallet, but just after the pandemic that forced us indoors we now know how important life experiences are. So let us introduce you to this incredible project by the name of Ecoluxury. Ecoluxury is the only brand in the world that certifies the sustainability of luxury tourist facilities. And these, if approved, are placed on a search list within the site. In this list, with facilities from all over the world, you can find out what kind of holiday you are interested in, what kind of experiences you could have in that place and thanks to that facility. The project is about promoting high-level sustainable tourism, in line with the 17 Sustainable Development Goals of the United Nations 2030 Agenda (SDGs). The goals are aimed at solving humanity's major problems such as poverty, hunger, gender inequality, lack of education, climate change etc. by 2030. The tourism business can pull the right strings and, if well directed, could really make a difference. The 79 facilities included in Ecoluxury (16 of which are Italian) all offer unique experiences and incredible standards of accommodation. To find the perfect holiday for you on the website there are various filters that break them down by location, type of facility, motivation and travel requirements, and the type of experience they can offer. This makes the search really simple and intuitive, and no time is wasted scrolling. p.211

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F/W 2023 / '24 issue #23 ENGLISH