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CONTENTS Editor’s Letter 6 Fashion Weeks SS19 article 10 Flying Feelings cover story 18 Celine New Way article 30 Under the Sun editorial 34 No more Fashion Victims article 40 The end of the World editorial 42 Designer Marine Serre article 52 Leon editorial 54 Forsythia interview 66 Your Mirror editorial 70 Latest Accessories article 77 Swedish Girl editorial 78 Like a Parisian It-Girl article 86 In Line with the Place editorial 88 Knitwear is changing article 98 The Loft editorial 102 Latest Art article 111 Lotus Eater editorial 114 Latest Beauty article 122 Transparency editorial 124 I Am Many campaign article 132 Frida editorial 134 Green Carpet Fashion Awards article 142 After the After editorial 144
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COVER STORY Photography Katia Wik Style Anita Krizanovic Model Milena Zuchowicz c/o Le Management Hair Style, Makeup Sarah Marx
EDITOR’S LETTER
P
assword: Esteem. My maybe preferred concept when it concerns human beings. If I find a person to respect, sure is someone who can stay in my life. So what I’m looking for Latest are people and topics to take as a model, learn something from them. We focus on sustainable fashion and ethics, all those brands and people who are giving their contribution. Let’s find out the secrets, the tips and think on what we could do in turn. The Green Carpet Fashion Awards in Milan is an example of how the planet is trying to turn in favor of itself, and people are slowly understanding the importance of respecting the land on which they walk.
Editor-in-chief Facebook: @marta.forgione Instagram: @martaforgione
Marta Forgione
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Editor’s letter
Marc Jacobs | look 20
R E P O R T
Fashion Weeks
SS2019
by Djordje Veljkovic - continue to page 17 All images courtesy of Vogue | Indigital.tv
The beginning of a new fashion month is a good enough reason to celebrate, but the creative directors behind the latest spring/summer collections have managed to take the word celebrate to a whole new level. Spring/summer 19 season might go down in history as a season containing the biggest number of anniversary shows, as brands ranging from the knitwear titan, Missoni, to the reigning king of American sportswear, Ralph Lauren, celebrated their achievements by staging special runway presentations. Mary Katrantzou was among the celebrators as well, having staged her 10th anniversary show. Katarantzou’s success and persistence just show how strong stance on design combined with passion and love for what you do can result in a business that is both successful and sustainable. Before we continue analyzing the most eye-catching collections of the season, some things will need to be clarified due to the publishing time of this issue. Paris had to be omitted but don’t worry, the full Parisian fashion week trend report and review will be posted on latestmagazine. net in the following days. New York has for several seasons suffered from the lack of authentic creative voices. With Marc Jacobs and Raf Simons serving as sole torchbearers, New York fashion week almost felt like it was drowning in a sea of directionless renditions of american sportswear, but the return of two NY-bred brands brought the much needed creative reinforcement and direction. In 2017 Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have made it clear that their move to Paris may be more like a trial than a final departure, but it seems like the trial period is over. Golden boys have decided to head back home, a move which was expected to be a sale enhancer. Even though we’re huge fans of Proenza Schouler, we must admit that the latest offering of the brand may not be their most impactful one. The collection was heavily influenced by menswear tailoring: boyfriend blazers and tailored vests aplenty, and had a palpable American sensibility to it. After two seasons of designing demi couture, the boys went back to basics, using humbler materials compared to their recent offerings. Feathers and embroidery were swapped with cotton and denim, a choice perhaps influenced by the willingness to reconnect to the “real women” and their everyday wardrobe. Mulleavy sisters are another dynamic duo that has been welcomed back to New York with open arms. The sisters headed back to the motherland with a knockout collection. Rodarte took the attendees to the New York Marble cemetary, a rather haunting backdrop for a spring summer runway show, but as the rain started pouring the drama had been kicked up a notch. The clothes haven’t disappointed either, the designers upped the ante on tulle and embellishments, sending out a hit after hit, offering their own whimsical and romantic take on formal and red carpet dressing.
As London fashion week was getting closer and closer, the anticipation for the Ricardo Tisci’s impending debut for Burberry has hit an all time high. He had all eyes on him and it comes as no surprise as big house shake-ups are a rarity on the British fashion scene. The huge 134-looks collection was sectioned into a refined and streamlined first section, youthful and more relaxed second one and several evening wear looks. Many times in recent fashion history, sophomore collections have been wildly different from the debut ones, so we will refrain for commenting whether Ricardo is a good fit for the brand or not, but we will eagerly keep the eyes peeled for whatever he brings next to the table.
Prada | look 12
Burberr y |
look 24
Milan fashion week schedule has taken a serious blow as both Gucci and Bottega Veneta have decided to opt out of presenting this season. Bottega Veneta have decided to skip the show to give newly appointed creative director Daniel Lee some time to adapt and Gucci has decided to stage their latest runway show in Paris, at Le Palace. But Milanese designers have exceeded all the expectations and more than made up for the departure of aforementioned brands. The absolute highlight of the week if not the whole season was Miuccia Prada’s latest offering. The beauty look, by superstar team Guido Palau and Pat McGrath was amazing: Super thick and super long spider lashes and boyish bangs, framed by a chunky satin hairband. A modern day take on 60s beauty tropes, and the clothes followed through. Twiggy with a pinch of Catherine Deneuve in “Belle du Jour”, Prada’s latest collection fluctuates between conservatism and freedom.
Flying fe elings Cover Story Photography Katia Wik Style Anita Krizanovic Model Milena Zuchowicz c/o Le Management Hair Style, Makeup Sarah Marx
Editor’s letter
Future perspectives of Celine by Ona Ford
It has been a thrilling period for the fashion industry since Céline announced the changes in its headquarters earlier this year. After a decade of Phoebe Philo’s unshakeable reign at the French fashion powerhouse, Hedi Slimane was chosen to take over the brand last January, leaving behind a half year filled with speculations and predictions on which direction he’s going to take at Céline. With his first show less than a month away, Slimane shared the very first results of his six-month renovation in silence. It included a take-back of brand’s original logo from 1960s, with the accent on ‘E’ eliminated and lengthened font, followed by a strong statement attempt to let go of the past by erasing all of the previous posts on brand’s Instagram account. In addition, all campaign posts released by the label had #CelinebyHediSlimane tag typed along. These changes received contrasting reactions, especially by the the former creative director’s fans, known as the Philophiles, that were fast to liken Philo’s departure to an end of brand’s greatness, while others where excited to see a new approach to the label after ten years.
By all indications, the announcement meant to reassure us - now it is Hedi’s world. No matter the feedback, it is expected that Slimane’s previous success in Dior Home and Saint Laurent will follow him to Céline, even if his visual identity greatly differs from that of his predecessor. Slimane, with positive history at hand, is thought to be an equal force to Phoebe Philo, who turned Céline into fashion’s authority after joining in 2008, with her efforts tripling the brand’s profits over the years. Miraculous is not the right term to measure the influence that Philo has had at Céline, as she turned the brand into a powerhouse for leather accessories, must-have handbags that were often sold out before they even hit the stores and utterly creative ready-to-wear pieces. It is debated whether Slimane will manage to arrive to the point that tops Phoebe’s achievements, however, as of now, he is said to be very respectful of the brand’s history, only doing exactly what he was hired to do, instilling his own vision to the brand, just as Philo
Celine SS19 | All images courtesy of Vogue | Indigital.tv
did all these years. It’s now a blueprint that has proved to work for Slimane before. He started from a blank page both at Dior Homme and Saint Laurent, eventually resulting in years of accelerated growth for both maisons that continues up until this day. Besides taking control over womenswear, leather goods, accessories, and introducing menswear, fragrance and couture upon his arrival, which will cause a major shift to the brand on its own, Slimane is bound to influence the brand at even bigger scale. Hedi is reportedly going to adopt new retail strategies in menswear’s delivery cycle, called drops, famously used by streetwear brand such as Supreme, a strategy of releasing a small portion of a collection weekly or so instead of dropping all of it at once, with the hope to attract the attention of a younger customer. This tactic is rather new, yet to be adopted by luxury fashion brands. Today, the brand’s website shows no previous product information, showing creative director’s will to exert full creative control on all facets of the fashion house. Slimane has
reportedly chosen to impact brand’s physical presence, set to remodel each and every one of 140 label’s retail stores, which comes at a cost of up to 3$ million for a smaller boutique, to 8$ million for a flagship store, as well as buy additional properties in Manhattan for a new, bigger store, as product expansion into new categories will demand accordingly larger store space. According to industry’s experts, Slimane is bound to succeed by creating balanced collection that will create a rhythm for Hedi Slimane’s Celine, consisting of core essentials - most likely wide-leg trousers, easy-towear basics, perfectly tailored, slumped suits, and statement leather accessories. Up until now, Slimane teased us with the his first creation for the house available to the public eye - a new bag, advertised in the hands of his longtime friend Lady Gaga at the Louvre, and Angelina Jolie, too. His debut collection, called Paris La Nuit, presented at Les Invalides on September 28th, 97-look breadth, was a commercial crowd puller,
SUN under the
Photography Liz van Campenhout Style Kelly Staa Model Lisa van Beek c/o Elite model management Makeup Melanie FoĂŤh c/o Colourfool Agency
Opening: Bag Kenzo Gloves Max Mara, Dress Ana Alcazar Boots Miista London Here: Top Reinders Pearl necklace Chanel
Of
THE END
THE WORLD Photography Aldona Karczmarczyk | Style Michał Koszek Photography Assistant Kuba Krul | Model Julita Formella c/o Rebel Models Makeup Aga Wilk | Hairstyle Piotr Wasiński Location Scouting Szary Burek | Production Van Dorsen Artists
LEON
Photography Emanuele Savoia Style Gian Luca Fonderico Model Chin Chin c/o Independent Model MGMT
Makeup Annie Mols Hair Style Erisson Musella Retouch Jordan Hartley
Latest Interview
By Laura Zanovello
If we wanted to describe our society in just one word, fast would probably a good one. We are indeed used to be able to have everything now and to dispose of it as fast as we obtained it. We expect it to be that way, disregarding the consequences. Fashion is a prime example that shows how this velocity can become very toxic, both on the environment and under social and ethical aspects. One of these dissident voices is Catherine Kim and her brand Forsythia. Her mission is to make slow fashion. What does this mean though? In a nutshell, it means that all of her garments are designed and made in New York, in an ethical and controlled way, with high quality and eco friendly fabrics. To better understand the complex work that goes into this newborn brand, we had a chat with Catherine, founder and designer of Forythia, who talked us through her job and passion.
Creating an environmentally and socially conscious clothing line ties all the things that I love together.
Forsythia | Another Beginning Collection
Can you tell us about your background and what inspired you to start your own brand? I was an assistant designer for an evening wear company for five years prior to starting Forsythia. During the time, I loved my work for the aspect of creating. It was exciting to see my creations go down the runway and see them on celebrities. However, I found it difficult to feel completely fulfilled. At a certain point, I told myself, “This
CATHERINE KIM X
FORSYTHIA is temporary. I need to step away to find what is more meaningful to me.” I decided that I needed to see the bigger picture. How can I give back? How can I change myself and the world? What can I do to improve? Creating a conscious clothing line ties all the things that I love together - social, ethical, and environmental values with my love for creating art and new expressions. What was the biggest challenge you faced at the beginning of this journey and the biggest reward? The biggest challenge was learning to deal with the front end of things. As a designer, you are almost always in the back room - sketching and constructing garments behind the scenes. As an introvert, I had been quite comfortable doing just that; however, I had to learn to be the face of the company and communicate to others what my vision is so that they can understand it. The greatest joy and reward in starting Forsythia has been setting my creative potential free.
What does sustainability mean to you and how does it reflect on your creations? There is a quote I love by Edvard Munch that says, “From my rotting body, flowers shall grow and I am in them and that is eternity.” Sustainability means knowing where your clothes come from and how it will go back to the grounds of where it came from. As the quote suggests, as the “body” of the garment decays, we will be able to grow and create new things from it. We have taken so much from nature and our planet, and it is crucial now to understand the effects we have had on it. In educating oneself and becoming more aware of our consumer habits, we can begin to heal - both the planet and the people.
photography JUAN QUEIROLO | style BÁRBARA VÉLEZ | model NORA VAI c/o Apmodels | makeup YANI URBINA | hair style BRITTAN WHITE
SWEDISH Photography & retoucher Christopher Mertz Style Caroline Ryttergaard Model Isabelle Blomqvist c/o Le Management Makeup, Hair Style Maja Provstgaard
Opening: Hat Vintage Dress Selected Femme Belt RE:Designed Here: Top Modstrรถm Pants Selected Femme Boots Bianco Jewellery Pernille Corydon
IN LINE WITH
THE PLACE
Photography Katharina Werle | Style Lisa Maria Lohmann Model Maria Zubtsova c/o Blow Models Hair Style, Makeup Evelyn Innerhofer c/o Bigoudi
The
LOFT
Photography Dominika Jarczyล ska | Style Elwira Korus | Model Hannah Kleit c/o M+P Models London | Makeup Kornelia Wawrzkรณw | Retouch Marcin Mikus
Opening: Earrings EKRIA | Blouse Maya Li | Slip Pierre Balmain Here: Cropped top Wesley Harriott | Trousers Stella McCartney | Shoes Kim Kwang
LOTUS
eater Photography IVONNE VEITH | Model VALENTINA c/o MOST WANTED MODELS Hair Style, Makeup KERSTIN HAJDU using LANCOME and DAVINES | Retouch THEVISUALCRAFTROOM
Transparency
Photography Weronika Kosinska Model Agnes c/o SD Models Makeup, Hair style Ania Wogerer using Caudalie, Elizabeth Arden, Embryollise, Becca, Mac Cosmetics, Ysl, Charlotte Tilbury, Bobbi Brown
Opening: Earrings Balenciaga Blouse Lee Mathews Scarfs (Hair) Hermes Here: Blouse Ellery Earrings Annie Costello Brown Opposite: Top Selfportrait Earrings Marni
Opposite: Shirt Jacquemus
Shirt Intimissimi | Trousers Uterque | Shoes Badura
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