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CONTENTS Editor’s Letter 6 Resort collection article 10 Lost Paradise cover story 16 Big Heart of Asos article 30 Subversive Beauty editorial 32 Latest Art article 43 Jeune Soiré editorial 44 Call the trend by what it is article 54 311 Pearl St editorial 56 Marina Hoermanseder interview 64 Siren editorial 68 Latest Sport article 84 It’s coming home editorial 86 Body Licious editorial 94 A touch of Grace editorial 108 Latest Accessories article 113 The Nice Moth editorial 114 Latest Beauty article 121 Closer to Dusk editorial 122 Fancy Swim Gear editorial 126 Up Close and Personal editorial 132
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COVER STORY Photography Frank Grimm Art Direction Arne Paszkiet Style Leonie Gerner c/o Bigoudi Hair Style, Makeup Melanie Schoene c/o Nina Klein Model Maya Stepper c/o The Lions Retoucher Elektronische Schoenheit
EDITOR’S LETTER
H
ere we are at our birthday, the first. Still it does not seem possible to me that this adventure has come so far in just 12 months. We have many important changes for the end of 2018 and I recommend you to stay connected. The importance of having a powerful means of communication, capable of moving one day the axis of people’s interest showed me the path I wish to take and the destination. We will move in time trying to show as much as possible the importance of respect for the environment. I hope to bring Latest to a level that can really do something meaningful and be able to say some “no” that are so difficult to manage now. In the meantime, enjoy the Resort collections and a wonderful trip with a great team in Tulum, Mexico.
Editor-in-chief Facebook: @marta.forgione Instagram: @martaforgione
Marta Forgione
MADE IN ITALY
Editor’s letter PRESIDENT, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Marta Forgione LAYOUT ASSISTANTS Giuseppe Sindoni Laura Bobak REGULAR WRITERS Giampiero amodeo Masha Mitrofanova Djordje Veljkovic Emma Cook Gaétane Auffret Laura Zanovello Nina Hanz Shravani Chavan PRINT CONTRIBUTORS REGULAR PHOTOGRAPHERS Patrick Schwalb Katia Wik Weronika Kosińska Sabine Liewald Detlef Schneider Raffaele Marone Astrid M. Obert Rickard Aronsson Mateusz Sitek REGULAR AGENCIES Nina Klein Bigoudi Munich models Agent Bauer
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Editor’s letter
Resort wear has definitely come a long way. From being introduced to the fashion calendar as a semi-official addition, it has grown into a full fledged spectacle. Destination runway shows, star studded VIP guest lists only serve as an indication of how seriously it is being taken by high fashion brands, and it should come as no surprise. As resort wear stays the longest on the sales floors without ever being on sale, the potential monetary income is greater, compared to the other seasons in the fashion calendar. Before delving further into the standout shows or the prevalent tendencies of the season, we have to clear up certain terms and misconceptions regarding this season. Cruise, resort, holiday or pre-spring are just interchangeable fashion jargon referring to the same exact season, which bridges the gap between the fall winter and the spring summer season. Originally it was intended for the world of influents and rich, the jet setting elite looking for clothes to take with them to the midwinter trip to the exotic islands. Since this highly specific market wasn’t large enough to support greater supply, many brands opted out of the spectacle. However as fashion became increasingly open and global, brands willing to tap into the newest markets began diversifying their offering, introducing articles previously unbeknownst to the season. It is absolutely correct. Customers hailing from countries with diverse climatic conditions deserve to have their needs satisfied as well, boiling down to the very foundation of good business practice, respect and customer satisfaction.
R E S O R T 2019 by Djordje Veljkovic - continue to page 15 All images courtesy of Vogue | Indigital.tv
Gucci ( left image, courtesy of Vogue) has taken the fashion elite on a trip to Arles, south of France. Alyscamps, a Roman necropolis provided a backdrop for the open air extravaganza that was about to ensue. Line of fire halved the runway in two, only enhancing the flesh creeping atmosphere of the venue. Michele’s universe is an everexpanding one, and it makes sense as he is an avid collector of all vintage things. He collects fragments of various subcultures, historical eras and pieces of art, mixes them all together resulting in a highly covetable and modern product. This season the collection boasting an impressive total of 114 looks. The strength of Alessandro Michele lies in his ability to showcase a wide variety of looks, each presented for a specific purpose. It allows his characters to become believable, characterizing his designs completely out of the forefront. The collection possesses a great cross-generational appeal. Everyone was represented in some way or shape from the widow in mourning to the local chapel’s high priestess. This approach to modern day fashion design further accentuates the brand’s grasp of the cultural zeitgeist, understanding that much more is being gained by inclusion, rather than exclusion.
Louis Vuitton (left image ) didn’t steer too far away. The brand has also staged their show in the French riviera, in the Maeght Foundation’s gardens. The collection had a noticeable measure of vintage Nicolas Ghesquiere. From structured and sharp 80s power shoulders to the sneaker boot morph, Nicolas has managed to reinterpret his own design codes through a spectrum of a Louis Vuitton customer. The clothes had an air of freedom, individuality and self expression. This exact ability to influence the customers on a psychological level and to successfully and accurately telegraph your intended mood of the collection is the reason why we need people like Nicolas Ghesquiere in fashion. People who will propel fashion forward without relying on past as a crutch, but using it to inform and inspire poignant and modern collections.
Mugler | look 13
No stranger to self referencing, Raf Simons has presented his latest collection for Calvin Klein across the pond. The brand decided to showcase their resort through a look book presentation to the media. His latest offering for the brand was, as usual, abounded with references to everything americana. Cowboy boots and hats, signature american sportswear are all staples of Raf’s vision for the brand, but additional layer of youth culture was added through the inclusion of basketball heels and university logos, printed on breast pockets and hoods of certain garments. Collection may seem a bit outwardly but genuine interest and love for references behind the clothes is evident. One of the loveliest surprises was Mugler, where Casey Cadwallader, recently appointed as head designer, has brought a fresher streetier energy to the brand. The looks were less streamlined and more practical and current.
PARADISE
LOST Photography Frank Grimm Art Direction Arne Paszkiet Style Leonie Gerner c/o Bigoudi Model Maya Stepper c/o The Lions Hair Style, Makeup Melanie Schรถne c/o Nina Klein Retouch Elektronische Schoenheit
Editor’s letter BIG HEART OF ASOS by Laura Zanovello
Talking about sustainability in the luxury fashion market is an almost seamless transaction, given the nature of the product and its consumption methods. The manufacturing quality and the price point ensure, in the majority of cases, a very long lifespan, as well as allowing a higher degree of experimentation in terms of production techniques. Looking at fast fashion, instead, the situation is quite more complex. For definition, the garments have a much shorter life cycle. Very convenient prices, combined with a lower investment on workers and raw materials, as well as the high pace in which products are made and dropped on the market result in a much faster consumption and disposal, creating a high impact on the environment and on people involved. It is very important to remember that the idea of sustainability does not only look at pollution but involves workers and their general wellbeing too.
More fast fashion brands are taking part in this discussion by promoting initiatives and programs to improve the current situation. H&M, for instance, is operating to make its customers take an active part in the recycling process of clothes, or Asos, the online shop that is making big steps towards a productive revolution. After declaring the ban of animal fibres such as mohair, silk, cashmere and feathers starting from January 2019, the brand launched a training program for its designers in order for them to learn to use sustainable practices when designing, bearing in mind the whole life cycle of the product. The initiative has been discussed for the first time at the annual Copenhagen Fashion Summit of last year, an event that gathers hundreds of fashion brands to discuss the future of Fashion and its sustainable initiatives. Asos has therefore created a partnership with London College of Fashion’s Centre for Sustainable Fashion, in order to train its designers through workshops and seminars so that they can acquire the skills necessary to have a circular vision of the process, starting from the idea to the use of the garments and their disposal with the aim of generating as little waste as possible. Along with these two initiatives, Asos follows a code explained in detail in a section of its website. Here are listed all of the social, ethical and environmental commitments that are then summed up with the motto “Do the right thing”. What does doing the right thing mean for Asos? Promoting transparency and legality, fighting corruption, being open to suggestions and changes, promoting ethical and sustainable ways of producing their garments in developing countries and much more. It is in Africa that the the UK label decided to produce one of its brands, Asos made in Kenya.
The collaboration with SOKO Kenya, a clothes manufacturing unit based in Rukinga Wildlife Sanctuary, helps local communities by providing a job in a safe environment, a fair salary, hot meals and health insurance, giving in return life to clothes made in a sustainable way using recycled materials and patterns created from drawings made by children of the local schools, while promoting fair trade. All of these initiatives then translate into the “Eco Edit” of the shop, that gathers 36 brand -as well as Asos itself- whose garments and accessories are produced with at least 50% or recycled materials, as well as satisfying other sustainability criteria. The e-commerce giant, therefore, offers a perfect example of how much fast fashion can do, granting a democratic concept of fashion and at the same time being respectful and conscious about people and the environment.
SUBERVIVE BEAUTY
Photography Filip Koludrović | Style Petar Trbović | Model Nadja Marinković c/o Demons model management | Makeup Dajana Pajkić | Production Timi Letonja
Opening: Blazer and cotton shirt Jil Sander | Woven hat Max Mara
Here: Printed jacket, skirt and cotton shirt Max Mara | Panama hat Maison Michel
JEUNE
SOIRÉE
Photography Mateusz Stankiewicz c/o AFPhoto | Style Janek Kryszczak | Model Monika Sawicka c/o Premium Models Paris | Hair style Gor Duryan | Makeup Iza Kucmierowska c/o Complete artists Retouch FinalTouch | Style assistant Paulina Tarnowicz | Photography assistant Łukasz Kus
Jacket Trussardi Hat Bizuu
311 PEARL STREET Photography Patrick Schwalb | Concept & Style Martina Nelles | Model Victoria Tuaz c/o Munich Models | Hair&Makeup Jasmin Zelenko c/o Nina Klein using Bumble & Bumble and Charlotte Tilbury | Digital Support Maik Denecke
Opening: Dress Valentino c/o Apropos the Concept Store Here: Dress Dries Van Noten c/o MyTheresa Coat Brunello Cucinelli
Exclusive Interview with Designer
by Nina Hanz
MARINA HOERMANSEDER
S
omewhere over the rainbow, you are sure to find one of Berlin Fashion Week’s brightest stars: Marina Hoermanseder.
Founded in 2013, Marina’s eponymous
label has become one of Germany’s most recognisable brands. While designs are easily spotted by the signature belt buckles, the Austrian designer always advances and alters her works. Often contrasting leather
with softer fabrics like tulle and ruffles, Marina’s creations sculpt the body in a feminine, yet powerful shape. For her fans, she always wondering what she will imagine for the next runway. In her whimsical Spring/Summer 2019 collection, Marina Hoermanseder created fantasy and wonder. With the transparent version of the beloved strap skirt, plenty of holographic patterns and romantic heart shapes scattered throughout the show, the latest collection introduces a kaleidoscope of colours and imagery. Juxtaposing materials like latex and knitwear, Marina was able to produce optical illusions out of the ballerina-like silhouettes. During the finale, Marina herself buckled up her own rainbow strap skirt, bringing a fairy tale ending to her show. Latest Magazine conducted an interview afterwards with the young, but influential designer. 1. Your designs always remain very playful and youthful; at what age did you begin your journey as a fashion designer? After high school my dad kind of forced me to learn „something with perspective“ so I started studying International Business Administration and made my masters degree in Vienna, London and Hawaii.
Hawaii. After that I was finally allowed to study fashion. Therefore I moved to Berlin at the age of 24 –a great age to start – still playful and carefree, but old enough to know not to be soaked in with Berlin’s party scene. So while my friends were partying I spent my days and nights working on my collections and ideas. During my internship at Alexander McQueen in 2012 I learned what it means to work hard in the fashion industry and knew that this was going to be my right path. I founded my label in 2014 for which I am still working hard every day to be successful. 2. The evolution of your label has been quite rapid, yet your oeuvre remains iconic and true to you. How would you describe your person style and your brand’s image? Using orthopaedics as my main inspiration in the beginning, leather sculptures and the buckle are my iconic elements – not only because I love working with them but also because they have become the brands corporate identity. Thats why you will always find buckles in any variations in my collections... mini, maxi, knitted, printed... I also love playing with contrasts – hard and soft, cute and fetish. In order not to go to much into the fetish direction I never used any black leather up until my 6th collection – before it was always soft colours. Although we have added a lot of wearable, sellable pieces in the collections, my heart definitely beats for the moulded leather pieces – they are
SIREN
SIREN
Photography Katia Wik Style Anita Krizanovic Model Sina c/o Seeds Model Management Hair & Makeup Sarah Marx Special thanks to Steffen Seeger & Alex Marcus
IT’S_COMING_HOME
Photography Heidi Rondak Style Danny Muster Model Liza Sotnikova c/o ICONIC Management Makeup, Hair style Catrin Kreyss Photo Assistant Sofie Axelsson
body licious
Photography Detlef Schneider c/o Kathrin Hohberg Style Stefanie Schwaiger c/o Perfect Props Model Nicole Mary c/o Iconic Management Model Sarah Smith c/o W Model Management Hair Style, Makeup Melanie Schoene c/o Nina Klein Retouch Andi Gamsreither c/o Retush
Editor’s letter
OLIVERBONAS.COM
LATEST Accessories by Emma Cook 2. Chandel-Ear
The Chandelier Earrings have been growing for the last few seasons but this a/w sees them reach unprecedented lengths. In a nod to the trend of 80s revival, these chandelier earrings are unashamedly extravagant.Invest your money in a pair of these badboys to update last year’s dress and save money for eggnog. For those who dare, forget one earring altogether and opt for the mismatched earring look, a favourite on catwalks and amongst the fashion elite.
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1. The Future is Feline | Super-slim cat eyes Any good Instagram influencer has been opting for smaller frame sunnies through all s/s and as we approach the fall they are not set to go anywhere fast. Sharp, angular silhouettes continue to dominate the small glasses sphere with tinted lenses set to be the next must-have requirement. Perfect for a/w as sunglasses become less about the sun and more about making you look fierce. As the sun disappears (we miss you already) transitioning to tinted lenses will ensure the that we can still actually see.
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4. Crossed Off- The Cross Body Bag [3]
3. Buckle Up, Baby- Wide Buckle Belts There were belts aplenty on the a/w18 catwalks, with brand after brand proving that bigger is better when it comes to the buckle. Miu Miu went one further, sending models down the catwalk wearing two belts for double the effect. An accessible way to tap into the ever-reigning Western trend with country-inspired deigns, or for the more fearless fashionista with supersized belt buckles act as a nod to the 80s excess trend which we will see returning in a serious way this season.
[4]
Forget the shoulder, bags will be slung across the body this autumn. A hit on runways earlier this year seen everywhere from Gucci to Loewe, the versatility of this accessory means there is a style to suit everyone. From the classic camera bag structure to a more nomadic style complete with fringing, the cross body bag will up your fashion game instantly by ticking multiple trend boxes. If you’re not already convinced, as we enter the season of parties this accessory frees up hands for extra prosecco glass holding. So whatever style you opt for, make sure its thrown across the body.
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