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The question is: Why? Is it designers being realistic about what their customers are actually wearing every day? Is it confusion about what to wear post-Covid, mixing WFH basics with dress-to-impress styles? Is it us oxymoronically finding a new uniform in our rejection of existing ones? The fall 2023 runways saw an abundance of power-tailoring Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli created an entire collection around the black tie, tweaking the idea of formalwear. Anthony Vaccarello looked at Working Girl for his Saint Laurent fall lineup, which took the pinstripe out of the boardroom. As leading designers decontextualize these uniforms, we are bound to find the comfort of homogeneity elsewhere. Enter: athleisure.
In hindsight, Mrs. Prada’s tongue in cheek take on athleisure now comes across as a more earnest idea. At Miu Miu, the designer emphasized the ubiquity of athleisure with zip hoodies in heather-gray knits or stiff leathers paired with ordinary tights, leggings, and sometimes nothing but underwear. (“I love it! If I were younger, I would go out in panties!” she said after the show.) In a season that was decisively dressed-up, Miu Miu reflected the reality behind put-togetherness, particularly for a generation that is significantly less interested in performing sophistication. Gen Z generally seems to care less about perfect tailoring and more about comfort.
Mrs. Prada understands our contradictory cravings for both luxury and comfort. After work, the Miu Miu person does a pilates class, and on their way home they stay in workout clothes and put their loafers back on; their formerly perfect middle-part bun now messed up from the workout. This is how we dress: with messy hair, the wrong shoes, and with a comfy hoodie to keep us warm. Karl Lagerfeld once said that sweatpants are a sign of defeat, but that’s hardly the case now that our Adidas sweatpants can be co-signed by Gucci or Balenciaga.
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