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But even amidst the pain and uncertainty, strength shines through. “Inside we are all stronger than before,” says Yana Olenich, founder of the eponymous womenswear label Olenich. “Unity and resistanceIsIn our blood.”Ayear on, five designers reveal what their personal and professional realities look like now. Scene: a hotel roomIn New York, one spring morningIn 2013.I’m staring at a photograph of a young soldier with the word TRUTH emblazoned underneath her tentative smileIn white font and a red box like a Barbara Kruger, pinned to Vivienne Westwood’s “Climate Revolution” DIY top. “It’sIncredible no one knows who thisIs. You don’t know who sheIs?” Vivienne asks meIn her soft Derbyshire lilt. She audibly gasps asI shake my head. “It’s amazing. Amazing.I’m here to try and do something about her.” The photograph,I quickly learn,Is of whistleblower Chelsea Manning.By Vivienne’s side now and for more than 30 years of their colorful shared lives stands her husband,Andreas Kronthaler, the dashing, tender artistic director of their fashion label. We discuss theAmazonian wild rubber dress they’ve designed for me to wear to the Met Gala tonight and Chico Mendes, the wild rubber tapping activist who lost his life fighting to protect the rainforest. Vivienne listensIntently, as always, then shares her observations, gesticulating palms out for emphasis.
In theInterpretation fetishization even of punk, many may have missed that the visualImagery was largely a medium for communicating a deeper philosophical and political message, which was manifestIn many other guises throughout her lifetime. “Punk was just a phenomenon,” her friend and collaborator for more than 50 years Gene Krell tells meIn his thick Brooklyn accent. “The label changed, but the elements, theIngredients, the commitment remained.” She was anIndependent thinker who drank art, literature, and politics through one straw and blew bubbles ofIdeas, designs, and theoriesInto the world through another. “Life was so exaggerated for herIn the most wonderful way,” Gene recalls.
Vivienne began her career as a primary school teacher and remained always curious, studying TaoismIn later years.In their final phone conversation, Gene reflects, “the mood changed completely when she started to talk about TaoismIt’s as though the world began to make some kind of sense to her. She saw nature as revealing the truth.”At her memorial,Andreas reiterated her commitment to Taoism and said that “towards the end she thought a lot about love. That a life without loveIsn’t worthIt.” Vivienne’s granddaughter, Cora, called on everyone to turnInspirationInto action to continue the “to do lists” that Vivienne left us all. “Into the cosmosI call your name” said Cora, closing the service. “You always saidI was your angel. But you were mine.”
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