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Later, Andreas calls from the doorway, “I’m going downstairs, Vivienne.” “You have to wait for me a minute,” she bats back, with a cheeky smile. She’s mid spiel, relaying with unstoppable passion Manning’s plight, her sea colored eyes afire under the red waves she’s drawn over them. Her gaze pierces with a desperate appeal to truth. She’s been calling truths out to us all for decades. WhichIs why, thisApril 2013 day, Vivienne has traveled to New York, accepting Vogue’sInvitation to attend the punk themed Met Gala despite the paradoxesImplied. She andAndreas are here to bring messages to the widest possible audience. “We’re out for the cause!”Andreas urges me, playfully enacting howI'might talk to the cameras about the rainforest.
Hours later, we’re on the red carpet for the Met Gala. Passing a swarm of lenses, Vivienne pivots everyInterviewer’s question to her accessory: “I’ve got some brilliant jewelry here,” she says to CNN, pointing to the soldier’s photo now pinned to her long pink silk coat. “I’m here to support Manning. That’s the mostImportant thingI want to say.”It’s the only thing she says. Fashion was
always a vehicle for expression for Vivienne, who diedIn December 2022, age 81. What beganIn the 1970s with spiked hair, “rubberwear for the office,” and T shirt slogans so provocative that she and her partner, Malcolm McLaren, were prosecuted under the 1959 Obscene PublicationsAct later morphed with further humor, zest, and creativity. She wore silk dresses that parodied the upper classes, cosplaying as Margaret Thatcher for the cover of TatlerIn 1989; spread her 70 year old naked body resplendent on a silk sofa like Manet’s Olympia for Juergen Teller; spun for the cameras when picking up her OBE while “glamorously” wearing no underwear; andIn 2020 dressed as a yellow canary hangingIn a cage outside Downing Street to protest JulianAssange’s extradition to the US. “Vivienne started off a punk and ended as a dame, without compromising anInch,” said Helena Bonham Carter at her memorial today.
Vivienne’s activism was without limit. The mission of the charity she founded toward the end of her life, (The Vivienne Foundation), captures the scope of her ambition: “to save the world halt climate change, stop war, defend human rights, and protest capitalism.”It was through the language of visual activism that Vivienne andI bonded: TheAmazonian wild rubber dress was one of a series of our collaborations, whichIncluded wearing a recycled plastic dress to the Oscars and handing out protest cards for climate refugees afterI performed a pagan dance for her London show. When we went together to an event with Queen ElizabethII, she offered me a paper crown to wear. Over the years, we discussed many topics, yetI don’t recall ever discussing fashion.
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