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As it turns out, this Mexico City showing was right on time. “It’s been really intense eyes for the last few shows,” says Philips, who notes that Maria Grazia herself favors a more dramatic eye for her personal makeup. “I’ve been doing so many variations on the smokey eye, and for this show we thought, ‘Maybe let’s do something less extreme.’” The result brings us back to what we know: When it comes to beauty, less-is-more isn’t a clichéd adage but a strong choice. “It’s not about a red lip or a black eye or highlighting or contouring,” says Philips. “It’s about embracing or enhancing their natural beauty.”
Grace Jones, who turns 75 today, has always possessed an inimitable aesthetic vision. Meticulously crafted and ever-evolving in collaboration with French creator and ex-paramour Jean-Paul Goude, the singer’s Afrofuturist image is as integral to her character as her sultry contralto and subversive stage presence. And while her Cubist fashion, from her razor-sharpshouldered suits to her architectural dresses worn with directional headpieces by Philip Treacy,
has always been a vital part of the visual equation, her signature, shape-shifting close crop and fantastical makeup have made her a beauty icon for the ages.
“It’s all about their natural beauty: whatever their skin tone is, whatever their nationality is, and the strength that goes with every type of girl,” says Philips, whose approach focused on plump, luminous, hydrated skin and thoughtfully emboldened brows (the Kahlo of it all). Rather than creating an overfilled power brow, Philips relied on Diorshow Onset Brow for a referential frame that afforded brows a more organic finish. “Once you work with the eyebrows, they get a more confident look. They don’t look too frivolous it’s a strong look without being dominant.”
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