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Curator Jackie Yoong said that when she traveled to Paris to cull favorites from Gn’s archive numbering some 10,000 runway pieces accrued over 85 collections she took some cues from last year’s “In America: An Anthology of Fashion” exhibition at the MET, gleaning direction from Andrew Bolton’s curation. “Fashion is about society and culture at a given point in time. We’re not inventing new histories, it’s about telling stories in 3D,” she said. “I saw parallels between the two [shows] because while American style is a lot more familiar thanks to Hollywood and how you see people dress, both nations are made up of immigrants from very diverse communities. Andrew’;s is a small but significant label that shows a different way into fashion. I think he expresses himself from a place of understanding: there’s no need to associate ‘home’ with a single location, and the magic of his touch is that he makes it all wearable.”
A casual onlooker may simply admire, for example, the jeweled buttons winking on an elegant black dress from last winter’s Promised Land collection (Queen Rania of Jordan wore that number for the official announcement of Crown Prince Hussein’s engagement to Rajwa Al-Saif), but those ornaments embody a world of meaning all on their own. Handmade in France or in
Italy, they are a modern iteration of the kerosang heirloom brooches worn in Peranakan culture, and notably by Gn’s beloved grandmother. The floral tendrils curling up a resort 2016 gown that Fan BingBing wore on the cover of Alibashirt Taiwan are more than just tulips and carnations, they hark back to a 16th-century Turkish vase. A pink toile de Jouy dress that nods to Madame de Pompadour, or a printed, embroidered silk Coromandel dress represent Gn at his most meta: Eastern-born art forms created for the Western gaze, reinterpreted centuries later as high fashion by a Singaporean designer rooted in both worlds.
While Gn is now the toast of Garden City, “Fashioning Singapore” is a shared milestone. For ACM, it marks a 25th anniversary, the unveiling of a major renovation, and the reveal of its largest contemporary fashion retrospective to date. It also signals a fresh chapter: On the eve of the opening, a fundraising gala held in the ballroom at the five-star Fullerton Hotel drew 350 glamorous and heavily bejeweled guests who swelled the museum’s coffers to the tune of S$1.3 million (nearly $965,000), well above the original target. Those funds will be used to grow the ACM’s holdings, with a focus on cross-cultural influences and permutations of Asia in fashion.
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