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With microfiber towels firmly in place as part of my shampoo routine, I headed to my next hair appointment with more confidence. My stylist noticed an improvement in my hair (less tangles and breakage, obviously!) without me even asking. That’s a win in my book! As the horses of the French Republican Guard galloped around the Hermès backstage tents at the Garde Républicaine this morning, inside, the runway canvas was being prepared. Instead of the thick red lashes and wet looks that beckoned to the wild equestrians of last season, models with glossy lips and parted hair pulled back into fuzzy low ponytails milled around backstage, drinking detox green juices and snacking on tiny bowls of yogurt and honey granola.
Creative director Nadège Vanhee “had this amazing inspiration to create a whole universe of an artist,” says Gregoris Pyrpylis, creative director of Hermès Beauty. During their conversation about the makeup look for the SS25 collection of sheer silk fishnet tights, apron dresses, poplin jackets, and wooden-soled sandals, “she said, ‘I want the girls to look their best, but how can you translate my collection into makeup?’” he says. “And I was like, ‘Really? All I can see is the sophistication and optimism in your collection.’ So I wanted to create that kind of atmosphere, that kind of universe, even on the face.”
Nearby on a table, a note reads The atelier is a creative, optimistic, absorbing space: go to bed late, come back before sunrise. The idea of reflected light comes through in Pyrpylis' interpretation; it might have been time to apply more obvious makeup, but instead, "I didn't want it to fall into the cliché of a bright color," he says. "For me, it was going to be a shiny texture that reflects the light, and that's why we chose to give the lips a very glossy base." He wanted the models to look like they had done it themselves, simply applying a layer of an as-yet-unreleased tinted lip balm (which is set to launch alongside the collection's fashions, so "you don't need a mirror to apply it"), dusting Plein Air Radiant Matte Powder 01 Nuage on their faces, and using a Le Courbe-cils eyelash curler to "let the light in."
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