Dissertation: Do Gen Z care about sustainability in luxury fashion?

RESEARCH REPORT

THE REAL VALUE OF SUSTAINABILITY IN LUXURY FASHION: A GENERATION Z FOCUS. Heather Spenceley

ETHICAL S TAT E M E N T

I CONFIRM THAT THIS WORK HAS GAINED ETHICAL APPROVAL AND THAT I HAVE FAITHFULLY OBSERVED THE TERMS OF THE APPROVAL IN THE CONDUCT OF THIS PROJECT. …………………………………………

STUDENT ID: N0829119 MODULE: 30015 INNOVATION IN FASHION SUPERVISOR: SARA HAN WORD COUNT: 6215

H E AT H E R SPENCELEY

CHAPTER 1

INTRODUCTION 01 PROBLEM STATEMENT 02 RATIONALE 03 AIM & OBJECTIVES 04

CHAPTER 2 07 METHODOLOGY 08 PURPOSE 09 APPROACH & DESIGN 12 SAMPLING & ETHICS 13 CREDIBILITY & LIMITATIONS

CHAPTER 3

LITERATURE REVIEW 14 MYSTERY GEN 15 LUXURY 20 SUSTAINABLE LUXURY 26

CHAPTER 4 30 FINDINGS & DISCUSSION 32 THEME 1 42 THEME 2 46 CONCLUSION 51 RECOMMENDATIONS

APPENDIX LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 52 REFERENCES 54 BIBLIOGRAPHY 59 APPENDICES 64

CONTENTS

CHAPTER 1

INTRODUCTION Context

Generation Z are defined as the cohort of people born between 1997 and 2010 (Dimock, 2019).

In 2018, Generation Z’s collective spending power was calculated at around £104billion (Cardador et al., 2018). Although this generation have an influential amount of spending power (Raynor, 2021), they are cautious in how they spend it (Gen Z Planet, 2020). In 2019 it was estimated that Generation Z would eclipse millennials and become the largest consumer group globally by 2020 (Hughes, 2019), yet their “growing passion for civic impact” (Walker, 2017) differentiates them from their predecessors. The eldest portion of Gen Z had their childhood shaped by events such as the Great Recession and incidents such as the Sandy Hook school shooting (Salpini, 2020). Their teens and early adult years have been permeated by global unrest surrounding climate change, racism, women’s rights, and other social tensions.

Ben Shabat, founder of Gen Z Planet comments that these events “have informed [Generation Z’s] beliefs and behaviours” (Salpini, 2020), possibly explaining their activist nature. Gen Z are more influenced by sustainability than Millennials (Danziger, 2019), this study explores whether this impacts their consumption of luxury fashion.

To understand if sustainable consumption impacts luxury fashion, sustainability must first be defined. Sustainability refers to the quality of being sustained at a “certain rate or level” (Oxford English Dictionary, n.d.). This definition encompasses the essence of something being environmentally sustainable and its ability to be continued whilst avoiding the long-term depletion of natural resources (Oxford English Dictionary, n.d.). This study will use this definition of sustainability to explore the viability of sustainable luxury and whether actioning more sustainable practices is beneficial to luxury fashion brands when appealing to Generation Z. Historically, society use excess consumption as a way of establishing status (Veblen, 1934) yet in modern society concepts such as slower or more sustainable consumption are now being explored.

INTRODUCTION

This study is concerned with how luxury fashion, a sector historically associated with indulgence and appearances, can hold its value in an era where overconsumption is at the forefront of consumer’s minds.

Although Generation Z wield a high spending power, their attitudes and consumption habits are radically different to generations before them (Walker, 2017; Moran, 2020), meaning that luxury fashion brands are unfamiliar appealing to such a generation. According to McKinsey, brands trying to appeal to Generation Z should familiarise themselves with “consumption as a matter of ethical concern” (Francis & Hoefel, 2018), signifying this generation’s consumption is partly driven by ethics. Implying that a brand name is no longer enough to please this generation. Therefore, luxury brands must use more than their brand name to differentiate themselves and justify their higher prices if they are to attract Generation Z.

PROBLEM S TAT E M E N T

GEN Z

$200bn

$150bn

MILLENNIAL Fig 1. Breakdown of Millennial and Gen Z spending power in USD.

Fig 2. Consumers who abandoned purchases as they did not align with the brand’s values.

GEN Z: 55 %

MILLENNIAL: 36%

INTRODUCTION

R AT I O N A L E

Despite the growing industry interest on sustainable luxury fashion consumption, existing research is rarely specific to Generation Z. Millennials are the focus of the existing research as they are proven purchasers of luxury goods and are expected to make up 50% of the luxury goods market by 2025 (Boston Consulting Group, 2019). This topic is worth both professional and scholarly scrutiny as Generation Z are a mystery to many luxury brands (Danziger, 2019) yet in the US they possess around 43% of Millennials and Generation Z’s combined spending power (Moran, 2020). Generation Z are also considering brand values when shopping; 55% of Generation Z consumers reported abandoning a purchase because the brand’s values did not align with their own, this is compared to only 36% of Millennials (Moran, 2020). This study is beneficial to luxury brands as if they are to unlock Generation Z’s spending power, they must first understand the values driving their shopping habits. Particularly those surrounding sustainable consumption; a concern which has been accentuated by the ongoing pandemic (CDFA & Brown, 2020) and the primary focus of this study.

AIM & OBJECTIVES INTRODUCTION

AIM To analyse Generation Z’s attitudes and perceptions toward sustainable consumption in the luxury fashion market.

OBJECTIVE 1

OBJECTIVE 2

OBJECTIVE 3

To investigate the historical role and purpose of the luxury fashion sector.

To analyse the relationship luxury fashion brands currently have with sustainability.

To identify what influences Gen Z consumers when purchasing luxury fashion.

RESEARCH QUESTIONS Q1

Q2

Q3

What is the role and purpose of the luxury fashion sector?

Is sustainable luxury fashion possible?

How do gen z perceive and use luxury?

A. What consumer needs does the luxury fashion market satisfy?

A. Can luxury

A. How highly do

brands use sustainability to innovate?

Gen Z prioritise sustainability when shopping for luxury fashion items?

B. How do they view accessbased luxury options?

C. Do consumers actions embody their values?

D. Do Gen Z

expect luxury brands to be sustainable?

CHAPTER 2

M E T H O D O LO G Y

METHODOLOGY

PURPOSE The overall aim of this study was to explore how Generation Z value and perceive sustainability and how this impacts their consumption of luxury fashion products. The first objective was to investigate the historical role and purpose of the luxury fashion sector. The notion that luxury is associated with overindulgence and sustainability contradicting this was the motivation of this study. Therefore, it was essential to explore the

historical background and consumption motivations behind luxury fashion to explore how a shift toward sustainable consumption may impact the industry.

The second objective was to analyse the relationship luxury brands currently have with sustainability. This objective provoked exploration into luxury fashion’s current relationship with sustainability and how this relationship could be maintained or strengthened in the future. This objective also considered whether more sustainable consumption options could allow luxury fashion brands to tap into more of Generation Z’s collective spending power. The final objective was to identify the main factors influencing Gen Z when purchasing luxury fashion.

It was essential to look at their values and whether these values influence their consumption in general.

METHODOLOGY

RESEARCH A P P R OA C H & DESIGN This study was concerned with opinions and perceptions, so mostly qualitative data was required. Despite this, a mixed method approach using both closed and open-ended methods was taken to reach a more valid, holistic conclusion (Watkins & Gioia, 2015, pg.12). Secondary sources such as news articles, industry reports, and podcasts were used to contextualise the topic and provide up to date information on the luxury fashion market and Generation Z. These sources also consider the impacts of COVID-19; an area which most academic literature relating to this topic does not consider.

Academic sources such as journals and books were used to understand luxury consumption motivations, sustainable consumption and the relationship between the two. Academic sources also explored the values of Generation Z and whether these were reflected in their consumption. Whilst these sources were useful and provided in-depth findings from recent studies, they were not specific to the topic.

Therefore, more research was needed to support the gaps in knowledge and fully address the research aim and objectives.

METHODOLOGY

RESEARCH A P P R OA C H & DESIGN Survey A pilot study was first conducted to eliminate any potential issues and estimate a completion time.

Then, 123 members of Generation Z were surveyed, with the aim of understanding their luxury perceptions and consumption motivations, which were either social (external) or personal (internal). Secondly, the survey aimed to gain opinions on new access-based consumption models such as second-hand luxury fashion or rental. As the study took an interpretivist approach, the survey used mostly openended questions (see appendix A) to gain a richer understanding (Watkins & Gioia, 2015, pg.7) of the mentioned topics.

123 MEMBERS GEN Z ANONYMOUS LOW COST

A survey was the best option as it provided scope to gain opinions from a larger group of people than focus groups could. This survey was also anonymous, allowing participants the opportunity to be honest in their answers, avoiding any bias or pressure from the researcher, which may come from face-to-face data collection. This study was limited by time and budget constraints, surveys are low cost and quick to implement and distribute, therefore a feasible option for this study.

Interviews A series of face-to-face interviews were carried out with members of Generation Z. Participants were found via an Instagram poll and through posting the survey on relevant Facebook groups.

Participants were asked a similar set of questions, dependent on the views expressed, making this a semi-structured interview format. These interviews aimed to draw deeper meaning from survey responses and explore opinions toward options such as luxury rental. The interviews aimed to assess the consumption motivations of young consumers and whether participants feel it is the responsibility of shoppers or brands to be more conscious.

Please see Appendix E for an overview of the interview questions and appendix G for the full transcripts.

This method allowed the researcher to assist if participants did not understand a question and could also ask further questions based on the response given, allowing for deeper discussion. Interviews were carried out face-to-face or via video call so the researcher could note expressions and body language when discussing topics regarding sustainability; further meaning could be detected from these non-verbal actions.

5 members of Gen Z with varied views & usage of luxury fashion

METHODOLOGY

SAMPLING & ETHICS The participants selected for both methods were of all genders and aged 18-24, capturing Generation Z.

Generation Z were chosen as they have a powerful influence in the market but remain a mystery to many luxury brands (Danziger, 2019). The older portion of the cohort were selected under the assumption they are semi or fully financially independent and more inclined and able to purchase luxury products already or soon.

Both current and considering luxury buyers were selected for the survey to establish the level of interest and knowledge Gen Z have around luxury fashion, highlighting reasons deterring consumption too. The survey and request for interviewees was posted on social media and completed and shared by individuals who met the required characteristics, gathering relevant participants; this method is a form of Snowball Sampling (Bryman, 2015).

All participants were between the age of 18 and 65 with no known mental or physical disabilities, avoiding the need for child or vulnerable adult safeguarding. All interview participants were given a sheet (see appendix B) informing them on why they had been asked to participate and how their data would be stored and used in compliance with GDP (General Data Protection) regulations. All interview participants completed and signed a consent form where they specified their anonymity preferences (see appendix C).

METHODOLOGY

CREDIBILITY This study analysed credible, peer-reviewed academic sources to build an understanding of the topic through the literature review.

This study then carried out primary research into the topics discussed in the lit review to gain a deeper understanding applied to Generation Z. Thematic analysis was used to analyse the data and identify any patterns or themes

between previous scholarly or industry research and the primary data, grouping any themes together. As all research was transcribed and open-coded manually; unbiased and accurate (Medelyan, 2020) themes were identified. These themes subsequently coordinated with those in the reviewed literature whilst meeting the aims set out for each method of research, proving validity.

METHODOLOGY

L I M I TAT I O N S Whilst the reviewed literature and industry reports in this study consider global data, the primary research was not regulated by location. As snowball sampling through global Facebook groups was not the initial plan, the participants’ country of residence was not requested by the survey. Therefore, it can only be assumed these participants were global, and not confirmed. The interview sample was limited to mostly students, who expressed being aspirational luxury buyers and not current luxury buyers; whilst this still gave a Gen Z view on luxury, it would have been beneficial to interview more confirmed consumers with a higher budget.

CHAPTER 3

L I T E R AT U R E REVIEW

LITERATURE REVIEW

M

MYSTERY GEN

Z

Gen Z vs. Millennials As mentioned, Generation Z’s views and behaviours differ to Millennials. Therefore, replicating tactics successful with Millennials may not be beneficial to luxury brands in attracting Gen Z. As existing research into luxury fashion concerns Millennials, this study required identification of if and how Gen Z differ. This section will discuss Generation Z’s values and if they are converted into actions.

Twenge et al (2012; 2013) finds that young adults take either a ‘Generation We’ or a ‘Generation Me’ approach; based on intrinsic and extrinsic values (Kasser & Ryan, 1993; 1996). Intrinsic values are internal and naturally existing, contributing to personal growth (Ryan & Deci, 2017). ‘Generation We’ emphasises intrinsic values such as activism, community, and the environment rather than on the individual, like ‘Generation Me’ (Twenge et al, 2012; Twenge, 2013). In later work, Twenge (2013) defines Millennials as anyone born after 1980, noting they showed a generational increase in narcissism and a shift toward extrinsic values such as money, fame and image. Winograd & Hais (2011) believe a new, more environmentally oriented cohort emerges every eight decades, the newest being Millennials. The arguable issue with these studies is that they do not separate Gen Z from Millennials, sometimes referring to Gen Z as PostGen Z seek truth Millennials (Pew Research & Dimock, 2019; Prakash and authenticity & Tiwari, 2021), affiliating from brands the two cohorts. Potentially (Francis & Hoefel, illustrating that the difficulty luxury brands face when 2018) targeting Gen Z could be due to their consideration of them as Millennials, instead of a separate entity with different values. It is argued that Gen Z are defined by their behaviours and not their birth year, noting that Millennials were the beta testers for Gen Z (Koulopoulos & Keldsen, 2016). Suggesting Gen Z have the most progressive views and those sharing such views could be classed as Gen Z. A study by consultancy firm Mckinsey & Co, revealed four Gen Z behaviours (fig 3) all anchored in the search for truth and authenticity, yet Millennials were found to be more idealistic, confrontational, and closed minded (Francis & Hoefel, 2018). Gen Z are also thought to be influential over the buying habits of older, typically more affluent generations (Fromm & Read, 2018) as they embody the zeitgeist of society (Francis & Hoefel, 2018).

Use dialogue to solve conflicts and improve the world.

Make decisions and relate to institutions in a highly analytical and pragmatic way.

GEN Z

Believe in individual expression & avoid labels.

Mobilize themselves for a variety of causes.

Fig 3. Four Gen Z behaviours.

This research defines clear differences between the two cohorts and accentuates the need for luxury brands to appeal to Generation Z differently, whilst highlighting not only age separates the two cohorts. However, it would be beneficial to luxury fashion brands to further understand if Generation Z’s community values are actioned in their consumption of fashion and whether their intrinsic or extrinsic motivations impact their purchase of luxury items.

LITERATURE REVIEW

MYSTERY GEN The value-action gap

The value-action gap (Blake, 1999; Kollmuss and Agyeman, 2002), is a theory describing the gap between a person’s values and their actions. There is much research around consumers values not corresponding with their actions in fashion consumption (Han et al, 2017; Williams & Hodges, 2020; Joy et al, 2012). Blake (1999) explores two variables behind this lack of correspondence, personal and external attributes.

External attributes are situational factors out of the control of the individual, the COVID-19 pandemic would fall into this category and personal are those coming from within.Blake (1999) believes this gap is created out of an ‘information deficit’, for example, consumers unknowingly buying from brands with unethical production processes due to a lack of corporate transparency.

However, Vermeir and Verbeke (2006) suggest the gap is due to consumers shopping based on budget and habit. Williams & Hodges (2020) found Gen Z’s concern for the environment

did not translate into their apparel consumption habits as they proved to be the most frequent consumers of fast fashion, an environmentally flawed sector.

Finding that in instances when they chose more sustainable options, such as second hand or rental, it was unintentional and used to find cheaper or rarer items. The study summarised that acquisition of clothing poses the hardest challenge to consumers due to lack of information and transparency from apparel brands (Williams & Hodges, 2020) and retailers at point of purchase, supporting Blake’s (1999) initial idea of an information deficit. In summary, there are various reasons for the lack of correlation between values and actions in fashion consumption but for Generation Z it is mainly due to a lack of information and cheaper options. This study was useful in identifying what Gen Z consumers value when consuming fashion but did not provide information into what this cohort expect from the luxury market and whether these expectations may differ due to the difference in price.

LITERATURE REVIEW

LU X U R Y

Luxury originated in places of worship, paying tribute to god(s) (Kapferer, 2012) and signifying status in aristocratic societies (Podolny, 2005). Kapferer (2015) suggests that luxury is associated with rarity and inaccessibility, a concept which is now changing due to the democratisation of luxury and changing luxury consumption motivations.

The democratisation Luxury has become democratised, meaning it is now more accessible and reachable to other social classes (Yeoman, 2011) and not only reserved for the upper class.

Kapferer (2015) describes how luxury brands sell an aspirational life of dream products and experiences but as luxury has grown this dream has been threatened.

He claims that if these luxuries become accessible to everyone, they go from dreams to reality. It is thought this process began in the luxury fashion sector (Brun & Castelli, 2013) with the transition from tailor made products to mass manufactured products, resulting in decreased price and rarity.

Unlike mass market brands, luxury brands must consider how targeting a larger audience may damage brand exclusivity. Democratisation has allowed competition from accessible luxury fashion brands who market their products as affordable luxury (Okonkwo, 2007; Ward & Chiari, 2008).

Provoking the introduction of luxury diffusion lines; affordable lines created by traditional luxury brands aiming to expand into new markets and attract younger audiences (Mellery-Pratt, 2014). As mentioned, luxury represents wealth and status, so the concept of affordable luxury is an oxymoron contradicting this representation (Brun & Castelli, 2013). As explored, Generation Z consider budget and rarity when shopping for fashion products (Williams & Hodges, 2020).

Democratisation could both benefit and damage the relationship luxury brands have with Generation Z. These consumption habits are contradictive; as products become cheaper, they become more accessible, decreasing rarity.

Democratisation could be If luxuries become accessible to beneficial in addressing the everyone, they go from dreams budget-based demands of this generation, but it may to reality. be damaging as they also demand rarity. Therefore, (Kapferer, 2015) creating room for new access-based consumption options, such as rental.

Rental provides a cheaper option for consumers, whilst aiming to preserve rarity as lower quantities of the products are needed compared to the conventional retail model. This will be discussed further later in the report (The Luxury Sustainability Paradox, pg_).

LITERATURE REVIEW

LU X U R Y Consumption motivations There are two common opinions taken on luxury good consumption. This section will discuss the existing literature and theories around the opposing ideas.

Much literature on this topic is based around Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs (1943), which outlines that humans are motivated by different needs; fulfilling needs linearly from basic to complex (fig 5).

More recently, Maslow reveals that these needs are flexible and human behaviour may sometimes be motivated by these factors simultaneously (Maslow, 1987; Belk, 1999; Ward & Chiari, 2007). Veblen (1934) describes conspicuous consumption, where luxury items are consumed for social approval; it is perceived that many luxury brand’s marketing strategies are based on

Share of items in consumption

100% SELF AWARENESS

KNOWLEDGE PERSONAL DEVELOPMENT POSSESSIONS SECURITY FOOD

SHELTER

0% Per Capita GDP

Fig 4. The relationship between human needs expenditure of personal income.

Transcendence Values which transcend beyond the personal self (e.g., mystical experiences and certain experiences with nature).

Self-actualisation Realizing personal potential, selffulfillment, seeking personal growth and peak experiences.

Aesthetic Cognitive Esteem for oneself and the desire for reputation or respect from others.

Belonging & love Safety Physiological Fig 5. Maslow’s Hierachy of needs.

Esteem

this concept (Vigneron & Johnson, sacredness (Kapferer, 2012).

1999; 2004, O’Cass & Frost, 2002, Trend and industry experts are Veblen, 1934). Supporting this is increasingly seeing wealthy the rule that when personal income consumers invest in self-enriching increases, spending aims to fulfil experiences over superfluous more complex needs at the top of possessions and status symbols the hierarchy (FAO & UNECE, n.d.), (The Future Laboratory, n.d.). this correlation is represented in Arguably representing a movement fig 4. Conspicuous consumption from luxury consumption (Veblen, 1934) primarily meets motivated by esteem needs to selfthe esteem needs (fig 5) of actualisation and transcendence consumers; those associated needs (fig 5). Supporting this is with status and prestige (Maslow, the belief that luxury consumers 1987). However, the discussed may see products as aspirational literature shows progression away for the positive contribution they from the convention that only have on society or the environment the upper class (Amatulli et al, are motivated by 2017), this could complex needs, but arguably represent that all classes are, an emerging Luxury consumers introducing new, demand for may see products as savvy consumers sustainable luxury to the luxury products. aspirational for the market. It would This topic explores positive contribution be beneficial to the needs the they have on society or further investigate luxury fashion how Generation market satisfies, the environment.

Z believe luxury addressing research consumption fulfils question 1a, whilst different needs, to also highlighting analyse their uses of luxury fashion. a challenge in identifying what It is argued that factors such as truly motivates consumers to self-identity (Azjen, 1991; Puntoni, purchase. Particularly prominent 2001) should be considered too. as Generation Z are though to be Vigneron outlines five values (fig more environmentally concerned 6) used by consumers to recognise than preceding generations (Walker, prestige, dependent on a person’s 2017) yet do not tend to represent socioeconomic background these values through consumption (Vigneron, 1999). Similarly, Kapferer (Blake, 1999). It would be beneficial discusses ‘My luxury’, referring to a to understand whether Gen Z person’s own valuation of an item. are motivated by conspicuous or Prestigious products are selected to personal factors and how members reap the full reward of ‘my luxury’ of Generation Z define ‘my luxury’. because the higher price represents

LUXURY

PERSONAL PERCEPTIONS

NON-PERSONAL PERCEPTIONS

The Hedonic effect

The Perfectionism effect

Prestige based on personal fulfilment values e.g. aesthetic beauty, or excitement.

Prestige based on superior product characteristics or performance; evidencing high quality.

The Veblen effect

The Snob effect

Prestige based on perceived representation of wealth, power and status.

Prestige based on the product being in limited supply; referring to rare or unique products.

The Bandwagon effect Prestige based on conformity to a social group or to distinguish from non-prestige social groups.

Fig 6. Motives and values behind luxury consumption.

LITERATURE REVIEW

S U S TA I N A B L E LU X U R Y PA R A D O X

Fig 7. Balenciaga shoelace fur

This study is concerned with the compatibility of sustainability and luxury and if the amalgamation of the two could allow luxury fashion brands to gain and retain the attention of Generation Z. This section will review the prominent literature discussing the potential of sustainable luxury and how sustainable consumption habits are impacting the luxury fashion market.

Dream or reality?

As awareness around environmental issues has increased, so has consciousness around how consumption habits contribute to the environment and society (Lochard & Murat, 2011).

Therefore, luxury consumers are progressively looking for guilt free consumption opportunities; this is conscious consumerism (Amatulli et al, 2017). Arguably, luxury brands are missing opportunities by not engaging in sustainable leadership (Sempels, 2012). Some academics claim that sustainability can help luxury brands innovate, strengthen brand identity, and enhance consumer relationships (Amatulli et al, 2017; Gardetti et al, 2017).

Whilst others believe that luxury companies inherently possess sustainable

qualities such as durability, craftmanship and lower production quantities, with the rise in demand for such qualities accentuating the possibility of sustainable luxury (Guercini & Ranfagni, 2013; Gardetti et al, 2017).

These opinions suggest that luxury and sustainability could enjoy mutual benefits. It is also noted that luxury brands who are not considerate of the environment will lose their appeal with new generations (Sempels, 2012). This stance suggests that luxury brands can use sustainability to differentiate from their competitors and attract new generations, like Gen Z, addressing research question 2a.

Contrastingly, some literature proposes that sustainability’s ethical, balanced values clash with those of luxury, which is based around excess (Carrier & Leutchford, 2012; Voyer & Beckham, 2014), making them incompatible.

Studies have also shown that environmental factors were inferior to quality, price, and brand reputation when purchasing luxury items (Joy et al, 2012), an idea acknowledged earlier in relation to Gen Z (Williams & Hodges, 2020).

New luxury As a result of conscious consumption, new access-based business models are emerging within the circular economy to provide consumers with more sustainable consumption options.

The circular fashion economy looks beyond the conventional buy-use-replace model and toward a more renewable model (Fig 8), based on waste reduction (Stella McCartney, n.d; Hu et al, 2018; Pinnock, 2019). Accessbased models, like fashion rental, allow consumers to access products but not own them (Lawson et al, 2016; Schaefers et al, 2015), reducing retail demand. High demand can lead to overproduction, reducing retail demand therefore reduces waste.

Luxury fashion brands and

RAW MATERIALS

FASHION

CIR C

WASTE

USE

RENT REUSE REPAIR Fig 8. A circular fashion model.

M EL

RECYCLE

R LA

OD

U

Ultimately phase out completely

DESIGN & PRODUCE

Fig 9. Norstrom launches resale shop ‘See You Tommorrow’.

Luxury fashion brands and retailers are beginning to capitalise on the circular economy by providing peerto-peer (P2P) swap shops and rental or second-hand sales of their own fashion lines (B2C) (Hu et al, 2018; Brown, 2020). These access-based models promote sustainability as they maximise the usage of otherwise neglected products (Botsman & Rogers, 2010; Lawson et al, 2016). Rental is thought to provide luxury brands with increased profits (Feng et al, 2020; Bardhi & Eckhardt, 2012) and non-monetary benefits such as rental to purchase conversion rates which can be useful when creating range plans and

selling to retailers (Lewittes, 2020).

The need for new consumption models has been accentuated by pandemic-induced stock build-ups, which in the past, have been dealt with unsustainably by luxury brands. Luxury fashion rental allows consumers to buy the latest trends for around 20% of the retail price (Lang, 2012; Gao 2017) with less negative environmental impact than purchasing new. Therefore, consumers feel good about their consumption.

This topic is of interest to this study as Generation Z are the consumer group most open to the idea of fashion rental and resale (Moran, 2020).

CHAPTER 4

FINDINGS & DISCUSSION

The main aim of the primary research was to address the research questions generated under objective 3, concerning Generation Z’s purchase motivations for luxury fashion, as this is where existing research was limited. Therefore, much of the primary research centred around Gen Z’s perspectives on luxury fashion and on emerging sustainable alternatives to buying new; creating the two overarching themes discussed below.

THEME 1

GEN Z’S LU X U R Y L E N S Qualitative survey data was analysed from 123 Generation Z respondents, exploring how participants would define luxury in a few words or a sentence. As expected, 70% of respondents defined luxury as ‘expensive’ or ‘high price’, with some responses labelling luxury as ‘overpriced’, suggesting it is not worth the higher price point. Another predictable result was the expectation that luxury is high quality, with 55% of responses associating luxury with high quality or durability.

18.9%

For brand name & logo

37%

For quality & durability

32.3%

Haven’t bought luxury

11.8% Other

Fig 10. Infographic showing respondents uses of luxury.

When asked to define luxury...

70%

said ‘expensive’ or ‘high price’

55% said high quality or durability

19%

said treat or non-essential Fig 11. Infographic showing respondents top three defintions of luxury.

“EXPENSIVE, MONEY DRAIN”

“LUXURY CLOTHING IS EXPENSIVE, OUT PRICED ITEMS”

“EXPENSIVE, BASIC, OVERPRICED”

THEME 1

GEN Z’S LU X U R Y L E N S Conspicuousness persists Only 10% of responses defined luxury with aesthetical attributes such as ‘beautiful’ or ‘stylish’, suggesting there is no expectation from Generation Z for luxury products to be more aesthetically pleasing than more affordable brands.

However, 23% of responses defined luxury referencing ‘branded’ items or ‘wealth’, ‘status’ and ‘celebrity’. The domination of these terms over aesthetics suggests that Generation Z affiliate luxury

fashion with recognisable brands and the representation of wealth, rather than for aesthetic preference. This finding confirms members of Generation Z consume luxury for social approval (Veblen, 1934; Vigneron & Johnson, 1999; 2004) and use these products to fill self-esteem needs like establishing social status or prestige over others (Maslow, 1987). The interviews also confirmed that respondents invest in luxury for the feeling of superiority or exclusivity, relating to status (fig 12) This addresses research question 3 and validates the previous research around conspicuous consumption.

“If you buy a Fendi top, like nobody has it because they can’t afford it. So you feel like superior or special.”

PARTICIPANT 1

“I think it’s probably society.

Like, if there wasn’t a label on it, you wouldn’t be like, Oh my gosh, wow.”

PARTICIPANT 3

“It’s got the name and the logo.”

“I wouldn’t spend that much on something unbranded or less known.”

PARTICIPANT 5

“I just buy it for the brands I guess” PARTICIPANT 4

Fig 12. Interviewee responses when asked what draws them toward luxury brands.

THEME 1

GEN Z’S LU X U R Y L E N S Sustainability: expected, not demanded Only 3 survey respondents defined luxury in relation to personal fulfilment or happiness and only 2 defined it as sustainable (fig 13). Further supporting conspicuous consumption (Veblen, 1934) and contradicting earlier research that consumers may view products as luxury because of the positive contribution they have on the environment (Amatulli et al, 2017). Whilst interviewees mainly agreed products labelled ‘sustainable’ or ‘recycled’ would produce feelings of positivity, these labels were not a priority.

Validating earlier mentioned

research by Williams & Hodges (2020) who found that Gen Z’s environmental concerns did not translate into their apparel consumption habits, with use of sustainable options being due to cost and rarity. Highlighting that Gen Z do not highly prioritise sustainability when shopping for luxury fashion, addressing research question 3a.

FULFILMENT & HAPPINESS 2.4%

“My perception on luxury has changed over the years, I no longer associate it with material goods but rather with happiness and doing activities that will fulfil my happiness.”

“Has good quality material which makes you feel good about yourself and confident.”

SUSTAINABILITY 1.6%

“Sustainably made, couture clothing that is super expensive”

“sustainable, ethical, timeless, practical” “quality, finish, longevity”

HERITAGE & CRAFTMANSHIP 7.3% “Products which have been made to the highest level of quality and craftsmanship.”

TIMELESS 3.3% “Taken time to make.

1of1. Long lasting.”

Fig 13. % survey responses regarding non-conspicuous themes.

WHOSE RESPONSBILITY IS IT TO BE CONSCIOUS?

PERSPECTIVE 1

PERSPECTIVE 2

PERSPECTIVE 3

CONSUMER

BOTH

BRAND

PARTICIPANT 3

PARTICIPANT 1

Has a lack of trust in brands because even if they market a product as sustainable, you don’t know what is meant by that unless you do further research yourself.

Brands could create more sustainable supply chains using recyled materials.

They could also be more transparent in communicating this with consumers. She used TALA as a reference.

PARTICIPANT 4

PARTICIPANT 2

Believes luxury brands could provide more background information on products, as it would better justify the high price.

Believes brands cater to consumer demand, so if they slow demand then production will slow too.

But that consumers should do their own research into product background as brands are not always transparent.

But that brands also drive overconsumption through influencer marketing.

Fig 14. Summarised interviewee perspectives on whether it is the responsibility of brands or consumers to be more sustainable/conscious.

Fig 15. Grace Beverley, founder of TALA.

THEME 1

GEN Z’S LU X U R Y L E N S Luxury brands have a responsibility However, 62% of respondents believe luxury brands are more sustainable than affordable brands (fig 16); suggesting that, whilst sustainability does not conventionally define luxury, there is an expectation for luxury brands to be more sustainable. Whilst less popular associations, respondents did relate luxury with craftmanship, timelessness and exclusivity (referring to lower production quantities).

Supporting the idea that luxury brands possess inherent sustainable qualities (Guercini & Ranfagni, 2013; Amatulli et al, 2017; Gardetti et al, 2017) and should therefore be more receptive and adoptive of sustainable practices.

There was a mixed interviewee response when asked if luxury brands could help consumers be more conscious (fig 14).

Some believed it was the responsibility of luxury brands to improve transparency and create sustainable supply chains Confirming that lack of information and transparency from brands causes Gen Z to make unsustainable decisions (Williams & Hodges, 2020; Blake, 1999) in luxury fashion consumption too. When asked their opinion on incentivisation of sustainable acts of consumption, consumers had a mixed

view. Interviewees who were regular luxury consumers (participants 4 & 5), felt that an incentive scheme, similar to that of H&M (Appendix F), would help them to be more considerate in their luxury fashion consumption. Others said, as they were not regular luxury consumers, they would not reap the full benefits of such a scheme. These findings highlight Gen Z’s expectations of luxury brands regarding sustainability, and ways in which brands could better meet these expectations.

“It makes you feel good at the same time you’re being rewarded for it. [...]

And it would make me think more about what I was buying.”

PARTICIPANT 5

OTHER RESPONSES “EITHER ARE VERY BAD IN MY OPINION.AFFORDABLE SECOND HAND BUYING & LOCALLY MADE PRODUCTS ARE THE WAY TO GO”

“IT DOESN’T SIGNIFY SUSTAINABILITY, NEED TO LOOK INTO EACH BRAND FURTHER”

22.8%

OTHER 15%

“BOTH AS BAD AS EACHOTHER”

LESS 62.2%

MORE

Fig 16. Survey responses to whether luxury is more or less sustainable than affordable brands.

THEME 2

CIRCULAR LU X U R Y Generation Z’s response to sustainable consumption options was positive, with 76% of survey respondents believing luxury rental is a good idea and 78% saying they would buy luxury second-hand. Top reasons for this referenced sustainability, affordability and use for one off occasions; highlighting the types of products consumers would rent. The latter reason references both affordability and sustainability as participants believe buying an outfit to only wear it once is unsustainable and illogical but feel social pressure not to re-wear occasion outfits. This perspective was confirmed by three respondents in interviews who explained that they would use rental for one off occasions as it is a cheaper, less wasteful

option. However, use of second-hand luxury was conditional, with 27% worrying about quality preservation.

It was also highlighted that 10% of respondents lacked knowledge around luxury fashion rental, most of whom still had a positive reaction to the concept; implying that if they had such knowledge, they may have used rental. This unexpected response highlights an opportunity for luxury brands and rental companies to increase awareness around these functions to Generation Z consumers.

“I have never used it as I am unsure of trustworthy companies who do this and also haven’t had an occasion to try it.”

SURVEY RESPONDENT

LUXURY RENTAL Other No

SECOND-HAND LUXURY

22.1%

Maybe No

75.6%

11%

Yes

78% Yes

MOST COMMON THEMES 36%

AFFORDABILITY

30%

22.8%

SUSTAINABILITY

21.1%

SUSTAINABILITY

ONE OFF OCCASIONS

27%

16%

QUALITY PRESERVATION

AFFORDABILITY

Fig 17. Recepetivity to luxury fashion rental and second-hand luxury fashion.

Fig 18. Infographic depicting survey respondents adversity to luxury fashion rental.

8%

DAMAGE & HYGIENE WORRIES

14%

PREFER OWNERSHIP

13%

RENTAL FEELS LESS EXCLUSIVE

“It encourages unhealthy competition to look like you can afford designer/luxury items, could encourage people to be more materialistic if rental is more accessible for an image on social media.”

SURVEY RESPONDENT

THEME 2

CIRCULAR LU X U R Y Contrastingly, 14% of respondents said they prefer ownership over rental of luxury items and 13% justified that rental removes the exclusivity and defeats the meaning of luxury. One respondent revealed the most discouraging factor being peers finding out the item was rented. Following this, 9% of negative responses were linked to superficiality. Participants felt that some people may use rental to fabricate the appearance of wealth or social status to their peers or on social media. One interviewee also explained that if you must push your budget to experience luxury,

“I don't like renting clothing more so to do with others knowing that I have rented items.”

SURVEY RESPONDENT

it is no longer enjoyable, describing rental as ‘pointless’. These results further support the idea that there are conspicuous motivations behind Gen Z’s luxury fashion consumption (Veblen, 1934) as they concern status, but some responses highlight Gen Z’s awareness of negative impacts arising from superficial use of luxury fashion rental. These findings met their goal of exploring Gen Z’s attitudes toward access-based consumption options available in the luxury fashion market, answering research question 3b.

CHAPTER 5

C O N C LU S I O N As most existing research on luxury fashion concerns Millennials, this study focused on Generation Z due to their growing spending power and interest in luxury fashion.

This study was interested in the assumption that Generation Z possess stronger community values, more progressive social views, and higher environmental awareness than their Millennial predecessors. Provoking the researcher to question whether these factors prevailed in Generation Z’s consumption of luxury fashion, an industry centred around extravagance. Therefore, three research objectives were set.

OBJECTIVE 1 To investigate the historical role and purpose of the luxury fashion sector.

OBJECTIVE 2 To analyse the relationship luxury fashion brands currently have with sustainability.

OBJECTIVE 3 To identify what influences Gen Z consumers when purchasing luxury fashion.

CONCLUSION

OBJECTIVE 1 The first objective was to investigate the historical role and purpose of the luxury fashion sector (Q1), exploring the consumer needs satisfied by this industry (Q1a). It was discovered that whilst luxury’s historical role was to represent status through inaccessibility and rarity (Kapferer, 2012), this representation had been damaged by the democratisation of luxury, arguably damaging Gen Z’s association with luxury as exclusive. Primary research findings confirm this as only 11% of luxury definitions referenced exclusivity.

Therefore, discovering the historical role of the sector and giving further insight into how this role is changing, whilst also describing the impact this could have on Generation Z’s perception of the industry.

Two strong arguments were then evaluated around the motivations behind luxury fashion consumption. It was argued that contemporary consumers still use luxury fashion to fulfil status needs (Maslow, 1987), with the aim of gaining social approval and conformity (Veblen, 1943).

Primary research findings

validated this argument, with survey respondents defining luxury using language associated with status, wealth and celebrity. Interviewees further validated this argument, agreeing that luxury items create feelings of exclusivity and superiority rather than the items themselves being exclusive.

It was then argued factors of the self motivate consumers to purchase luxury items (Azjen, 1991; Puntoni, 2001), these factors are based on personal perceptions including emotions (hedonic) or quality (perfectionist) and are dependent on a person’s socioeconomic background (See fig 6 ) (Vigneron & Johson, 1999; 2004). Primary research invalidated the hedonic effect, as only 3 respondents defined luxury using terms related to personal happiness or fulfilment. Proving that Gen Z do not largely consume luxury products because of personal perception, but more for how they solidify social status. However, the perfectionist effect (Vigneron & Johnson, 1999; 2004) was validated as 55% of luxury definitions referenced high or better quality, therefore proving Gen Z’s luxury consumption is heavily motivated by the perception of higher quality. Implying although motivations of the self are present in Generation Z consumers, conspicuous factors are more dominant, confirming that luxury fashion market satisfies both external and internal needs (Q1a).

The second research objective was to analyse the current relationship luxury fashion brands have with sustainability. Aiming to explore whether luxury fashion was possible (Q2) and if luxury brands can use sustainability to innovate (Q2a). It was argued luxury brands engaging in sustainable practices reap benefits such as increased innovation, enhanced consumer relationships and stronger brand identity (Amatulli et al, 2017; Gardetti et al, 2017).

Furthermore, brands not engaging in such activity would alienate younger generations (Sempels, 2012).

The survey identified that Gen Z assume luxury fashion brands are more sustainable than affordable brands and whilst most respondents did not consume solely based on sustainability, it was considered as a bonus. Concluding that Gen Z do expect luxury brands to be more sustainable, however, they do not demand it, answering Q3d. Additionally, interviewees agreed they want more transparency from luxury brands, claiming that providing supply chain or production information would better justify the higher price and prompt more considered purchases (see fig 14).

Suggesting that luxury brands could create a competitive advantage over

less sustainable brands by increasing transparency. Validating previous arguments whilst confirming luxury brands can create competitive advantage, and therefore innovate, through sustainability; answering Q2a. The demise of ownership was then explored, discussing more sustainable consumption models, aiming to identify if these models could help luxury brands attract Generation Z. Gen Z was overall receptive to the idea of luxury rental, believing that it provides a more affordable, less wasteful option.

However, Gen Z lacked knowledge of this option, explaining they did not know of any trustworthy companies offering luxury rental.

Highlighting an opportunity for luxury brands to establish rental services or better target Generation Z in their marketing of such services. As evidenced, rental can provide the luxury market with both monetary (Feng et al, 2020; Bardhi & Eckhardt, 2012) and non-monetary (Lewittes, 2020) benefits, whilst appealing to generation Z’s savvy tendencies and reducing pressure on the environment. These findings evaluate Gen Z’s perception of access-based luxury options, therefore addressing Q3b.

CONCLUSION

OBJECTIVE 2

CONCLUSION

OBJECTIVE 3 The final objective was to identify what influences Gen Z when purchasing luxury fashion. Aiming to answer the overall question (3); how do Gen Z perceive and use luxury? And addressing the remaining sub-topics: how they prioritise sustainability in luxury purchases (Q3a), how they view access-based luxury (Q3b) and whether their actions embody their values (Q3c).

The study compared Gen Z and Millennial values, highlighting clear differences between the two cohorts.

Finding that Gen Z seek truth and authenticity from brands (Francis & Hoefel, 2018), however, these values are not always actioned through consumption due to lack of transparency (Blake, 1999) and factors such as budget and habit (Vermeir & Verbeke, 2006; Willams & Hodges, 2020). Whilst primary research identified Generation Z consume luxury fashion with consideration of waste, wearability and quality, it was concluded that value for money is the predominant driver of these considerations.

However, interviewees do believe brands have a responsibility to be more transparent and offered options on how they could encourage conscious consumption, validating Blake’s (1999) value-action theory. Therefore, concluding that whilst sustainability is considered by Gen Z, it is not prioritised in luxury fashion consumption (Q3a). Further concluding that Gen Z’s consumption actions only partly embody their environmentally oriented values (Q3c).

The overall aim of this study was to analyse Generation Z’s attitudes and perceptions toward sustainable consumption and what impact this has on the luxury fashion market. Research concludes that Generation Z are aware of the impacts unsustainable fashion consumption and practices have on the environment, but it is not a priority driver when shopping for luxury fashion. However, if the luxury fashion market truly aims to become more circular, they must make an authentic effort to provide consumers with more sustainable, less wasteful consumption options. Please see fig 19 for recommendations.

CONCLUSION

TA B L E O F R E C O M M E N DAT I O N S RECOMMENDATION

1. Incentivise sustainable behaviour

As Gen Z were receptive to the idea of H&M’s conscious point scheme, this idea could be applied by luxury brands to encourage sustainable, conscious decisions when consuming by incentivising. Instead of receiving discounts, luxury consumers would receive exclusive experiences or access to new releases, therefore, still aiming to preserve exclusivity.

This would not only encourage sustainable behaviour, but it displays authenticity; a trait Gen Z consumers seek from brands.

Gen Z were receptive to the idea of luxury fashion rental, yet claimed they were not aware of many luxury rental options, 2. Luxury providing the luxury market with an opportunity to appeal to fashion rental this audience through rental. It was found that rental provides benefits to not only brands and consumers but to society as it puts less pressure on the environment than traditional retail.

Gen Z highlighted a lack of transparency from luxury brands, referencing the high price charged yet lack of product information provided, particularly in apparel. It was concluded 3. Increasing that whilst consumers know they have a responsibility to transparency shop more consciously, brands must make this process easier by providing more supply chain and production information; allowing consumers to make more informed decisions.

Fig 19. Table of Recommendations.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Fig 1. Breakdown of Millennial and Gen Z spending power in USD. Moran, G. (2020). Gen Z And Millennials 2020 - Drapers. Drapers. https://www. drapersonline.com/guides/gen-z-and-millennials-2020 Fig 2. Consumers who abandoned purchases as they did not align with the brand’s values. Moran, G. (2020). Gen Z And Millennials 2020 - Drapers.

Drapers. https://www.drapersonline.com/guides/gen-z-and-millennials-2020 Fig 3. Four Gen Z behaviours. Francis, T., Hoefel, F., 2018. ‘True Gen’: Generation Z and its implications for companies [online]. McKinsey & Company. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/consumerpackaged-goods/our-insights/true-gen-generation-z-and-its-implications-forcompanies [Accessed 23 March 2021].

Fig 4. The relationship between human needs expenditure of personal income. FAO, & UNECE. (n.d.). EUROPEAN FOREST SECTOR OUTLOOK STUDY 1960-2000-2020. FAO. Retrieved April 11, 2021, from http://www. fao.org/3/ae428e/ae428e00.htm Fig 5. Maslow’s Hierachy of needs. Sourced from: Mcleod, S. (2019).

Qualitative Vs Quantitative Research | Simply Psychology. Simply Psychology. https://www.simplypsychology.org/qualitative-quantitative.html Fig 6. Motives and values behind luxury consumption.

Fig 7. Balenciaga. (2020, November 23). Balenciaga Shoelace fur. British Vogue. https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/upcycling-trend-ss21 Fig 8. A circular fashion model. Common Objective. (n.d.). What Is Circular Fashion? Common Objective. Retrieved April 21, 2021, from https://www. commonobjective.co/article/what-is-circular-fashion Fig 9. Norstrom launches resale shop ‘See You Tommorrow’. Nordstrom. (n.d.).

Nordstrom Enters The Resale Market. Nordstrom. Retrieved April 19, 2021, from https://press.nordstrom.com/news-releases/news-release-details/ nordstrom-enters-resale-market/ Fig 10. Infographic showing respondents uses of luxury.

Fig 11. Infographic showing respondents top three defintions of luxury.

Fig 12. Interviewee responses when asked what draws them toward luxury brands Fig 13. % survey responses regarding non-conspicuous themes.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Fig 14. Summarised interviewee perspectives on whether it is the responsibility of brands or consumers to be more sustainable/conscious.

Fig 15. Williams, L. (2020, March 1). Grace Beverley. BALANCE. https:// balance.media/founder-focus-grace-beverley/ Fig 16. Survey responses to whether luxury is more or less sustainable than affordable brands.

Fig 17. Recepetivity to luxury fashion rental and second-hand luxury fashion.

Fig 18. Infographic depitcting survey respondents adversity to luxury fashion rental.

DECORATIVE IMAGES Front cover: Tapic, G. (2020, February 19). Model in white shirt. Pexels. https://www.pexels. com/photo/man-lying-on-brown-dried-grass-3772771/ Inside cover 1: Landvik, J., & Ganni. (2020, August 26). Lady in green dress. Vogue. https://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/copenhagen-spring-2021/ganni/slideshow/collection Inside cover 2: Landvik, J., & Ganni. (2020, August 26). Model in cheetah. Vogue. https://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/copenhagen-spring-2021/ganni/slideshow/collection Contents page: Gamache, M. (n.d.). Girl in sunglasses. SICKY. Retrieved April 21, 2021, from https://sickymag.com/belle/ Page 04: Sander, J. (2021, March 8). Jill Sander F/W 2021. SICKY. https://sickymag.com/jilsander-fall-winter-2021/ Page 06: Owens, R. (2021, March 5). Rick Owens F/W 2021. SICKY. https://sickymag.com/rickowens-fall-winter-2021/ Page 19: ASOS Man. (2021, April 19). 3 men in green. Edited. https://blog.edited.com/blog/genz-trends Page 20: Valerio, R. (2017, August 17). Luxury bedroom. Condé Nast Traveler. https://www. cntraveler.com/story/rent-this-17th-century-roman-palazzo-designed-by-vatican-artists

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Lewittes, E. (2020, January 16). How Brands Can Navigate — And Benefit From — The Billion-Dollar Rental Market. Fashionista. https://fashionista.com/2020/01/brands-clothing-rental-market Medelyan, A. (2019, October 11). Coding Qualitative Data: How To Code Qualitative Research. Get Thematic. https://getthematic.com/insights/coding-qualitative-data/ Mellery-Pratt, R. (2014, December 17). Do Diffusion Lines Still Make Sense? Business of Fashion. https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/diffusion-lines-still-make-sense Pinnock, O. (2019, January 23). A Hire Purpose: The Opportunities In Rental Fashion. Drapers. https://www.drapersonline.com/insight/analysis/a-hire-purpose-the-opportunities-in-rental-fashion Salpini, C., 2020. What The Pandemic Has Cemented About Gen Z [online]. Retail Dive. Available at: https://www.retaildive.com/news/what-the-pandemic-has-cemented-about-gen-z/588863/ [Accessed 10 March 2021].

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Bryman, A. (2015). Social Research. Kortext. https://read.kortext.com/reader/epub/242728?page= Campos Franc, J., Hussain, D., & McColl, R. (2019). Luxury fashion and sustainability: looking good together. 10.1108/JBS-05-2019-0089/full/html Cappellieri, A., Tenuta, L., & Testa, S. (2020). Jewellery Between Product and Experience: Luxury in the Twenty-First Century. 1–23. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-981-15-3769-1_1 Cardador, J., Fromm, J., Read, A., 2018. The Power of Gen Z Influence: How the Pivotal Generation is Affecting Market Spend [online]. Millennial Marketing. Available at: https://www. millennialmarketing.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Barkley_WP_GenZMarketSpend_Final.pdf [Accessed 8 March 2021].

CFDA, & Brown, S. (2020, May 27). Rebuilding A More Sustainable Fashion Industry After COVID-19: Interview with Sustainable Apparel Coalition Executive Director. CFDA. https://cfda. com/news/rebuilding-a-more-sustainable-fashion-industry-after-covid-19 Danziger, P., 2019. 3 Ways Millennials And Gen-Z Consumers Are Radically Transforming The Luxury Market [online]. Forbes. Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/ pamdanziger/2019/05/29/3-ways-millennials-and-gen-z-consumers-are-radically-transforming-theluxury-market/?sh=396aa46b479f [Accessed 11 March 2021].

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BIBLIOGRAPHY Feng, Y., Tan, Y., Duan, Y., & Bai, Y. (2020, October). Strategies Analysis Of Luxury Fashion Rental Platform In Sharing Economy. Science Direct. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/ S136655452030716X Francis, T., Hoefel, F., 2018. ‘True Gen’: Generation Z and its implications for companies [online].

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Gen Z Planet, 2020. New Study Finds That COVID-19 Is Solidifying Gen Z’s Core Characteristics And Values Particularly Their Cautious Approach To Spending, Their Aspirations For A More Just World And Their Optimism [online]. PR Newswire. Available at: https://www.prnewswire.com/ news-releases/new-study-finds-that-covid-19-is-solidifying-gen-zs-core-characteristics-and-valuesparticularly-their-cautious-approach-to-spending-their-aspirations-for-a-more-just-world-and-theiroptimism-301081492.html [Accessed 10 March 2021].

Goor, D., Ordabayeva, N., Keinan, A., & Crener, S. (2019, September 27). Impostor Syndrome From Luxury Consumption. OUP Academic. https://academic.oup.com/jcr/ article/46/6/1031/5575076?login=true Han, J., Seo, Y., & Ko, E. (2017, May). Staging Luxury Experiences For Understanding Sustainable Fashion Consumption: A Balance Theory Application. Science Direct. https://www.sciencedirect. com/science/article/pii/S014829631630649X Hu, S., Henninger, C. E., Boardman, R., & Ryding, D. (2019). Challenging Current Fashion Business Models: Entrepreneurship Through Access-Based Consumption in the Second-Hand Luxury Garment Sector Within a Circular Economy. 39–54. 10.1007/978-981-13-0623-5_3 Hughes, K., 2019. Generation Z: The New Face Of Financial Power [online]. The Independent.

Available at: https://www.independent.co.uk/money/spend-save/generation-z-new-face-financialpower-savings-investments-ethical-environmental-sri-investing-banking-a8937561.html [Accessed 8 March 2021].

Joy, A., Sherry, J. F., Venkatesh, A., Wang, J., & Chan, R. (2012). Fast Fashion, Sustainability, and the Ethical Appeal of Luxury Brands. Fashion Theory, 16(3), 273–295. 10.2752/175174112X1334074 9707123 Kapferer, J.-N. (2012). Abundant Rarity: The Key To Luxury Growth. ScienceDirect. https://www. sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0007681312000638 Kapferer, J.-N. (2015). Kapferer on Luxury : How Luxury Brands Can Grow yet Remain Rare.

ProQuest. https://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/ntuuk/reader.action?docID=1973650 Kasser, T., Ryan, R., 1993. A dark side of the American dream: correlates of financial success as a central life aspiration [online]. ProQuest. Available at: https://ntu-primo.hosted.exlibrisgroup.com/ primo-explore/fulldisplay?docid=TN_medline8366427 [Accessed 22 March 2021].

BIBLIOGRAPHY Kasser, T., Ryan, R.M., 1996. Further Examining the American Dream: Differential Correlates of Intrinsic and Extrinsic Goals [online]. Available at: http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/0146167296223006 [Accessed 23 March 2021].

Kim, H.-Y., Yoo, J.-J., Choi, D., Kim, J., & Johnson, K. K. P. (2011). Personal Luxury Values Associated with Fashion Brand Consumption: An Exploratory Analysis of Demographic Variations in the United States. Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 2(3), 130–138. 10.1080/20932685.2011.10593091 Kollmuss, A., Agyeman, J., 2002. Mind the Gap: Why do people act environmentally and what are the barriers to pro-environmental behavior? [online]. Environmental Education Research. Available at: http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/13504620220145401 [Accessed 23 March 2021].

Kunz, J., May, S., & Schmidt, H. (2020, March 25). Sustainable Luxury: Current Status And Perspectives For Future Research. Springer Link. https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s40685020-00111-3 McCombes, S. (2020, June 12). How To Write Methodology | A Step-by-Step Guide. Scribbr. https://www.scribbr.co.uk/thesis-dissertation/methodology/ Mcleod, S. (2019). Qualitative Vs Quantitative Research | Simply Psychology. Simply Psychology. https://www.simplypsychology.org/qualitative-quantitative.html Medelyan, A. (2019, October 11). Coding Qualitative Data: How To Code Qualitative Research. Get Thematic. https://getthematic.com/insights/coding-qualitative-data/ Moran, G. (2020). Gen Z And Millennials 2020 - Drapers. Drapers. https://www.drapersonline.com/ guides/gen-z-and-millennials-2020 O’Cass, A., & Frost, H. (2002). Status brands: examining the effects of non‐product‐related brand associations on status and conspicuous consumption. Jnl of Product & Brand Mgt, 11(2), 67–88.

10.1108/10610420210423455 Oxford English Dictionary, Sustainability Definitions [online]. Oxford English Dictionary. Available at: https://www.oed.com/view/Entry/299890?redirectedFrom=sustainability [Accessed 11 March 2021].

Peirson-Smith, A., Evans, S., 2017. Fashioning Green Words and Eco Language: An Examination of the User Perception Gap for Fashion Brands Promoting Sustainable Practices [online]. Fashion Practice, 9(3). Available at: http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2017.1366688 [Accessed 23 March 2021].

Pike, H. (2018, May 8). Will the ‘Sharing Economy’ Work For Fashion? Business of Fashion. https:// www.businessoffashion.com/articles/technology/will-the-sharing-economy-work-for-fashion-rentthe-runway-rental Podolny, J. (2005). Status Signals. Princeton. https://books.google.co.uk/books?hl=en

BIBLIOGRAPHY Puntoni, S. (2001). Self-identity and purchase intention: An extension of the theory of planned behaviour. Research Gate. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/284609761_Self-identity_and_ purchase_intention_An_extension_of_the_theory_of_planned_behavior QuestionPro. (n.d.). Snowball Sampling. QuestionPro. Retrieved April 6, 2021, from https://www. questionpro.com/blog/snowball-sampling/ Raynor, L., 2021. Gen Z And The Future Of Spend [online]. Forbes. Available at: https://www.forbes. com/sites/forbesbusinesscouncil/2021/01/21/gen-z-and-the-future-of-spend-what-we-know-aboutthis-generation-the-pandemic-and-how-they-pay/?sh=41abb2b521eb [Accessed 8 March 2021].

Ryan, R., Deci, E., 2017. Self-Determination Theory : Basic Psychological Needs in Motivation, Development, and Wellness [online]. ProQuest. Available at: https://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/ ntuuk/detail.action?docID=4773318 [Accessed 22 March 2021].

Salpini, C., 2020. What The Pandemic Has Cemented About Gen Z [online]. Retail Dive. Available at: https://www.retaildive.com/news/what-the-pandemic-has-cemented-about-gen-z/588863/ [Accessed 10 March 2021].

Segran, E. (2020, February 7). Buying Expensive Stuff Doesn’t Make Us Happy. Harvard Researchers Explain Why. Fast Company. https://www.fastcompany.com/90461269/buying-expensive-stuffdoesnt-make-us-happy-harvard-researchers-explain-why Sempels C. (2012) Sustainable Development in the Luxury Industry: Beyond the Apparent Oxymoron.

Stella McCartney. (n.d.). Circular Fashion. Stella McCartney. Retrieved March 30, 2021, from https:// www.stellamccartney.com/experience/en/sustainability/circularity-2/ The Future Laboratory. (n.d.). Tribes: The Luxury Collection. LS:N Global. Retrieved March 27, 2021, from https://www-lsnglobal-com.ntu.idm.oclc.org/reports Turunen, L. L. M., & Pöyry, E. (2019). Shopping with the resale value in mind: A study on second‐hand luxury consumers. 43(6), 549–556. 10.1111/ijcs.12539 Twenge, J., Campbell, K., Freeman, E., 2012. Generational Differences in Young Adults’ Life Goals, Concern for Others, and Civic Orientation, 1966 –2009 [online]. APA. Available at: https://www.apa. org/pubs/journals/releases/psp-102-5-1045.pdf [Accessed 22 March 2021].

Vermeir, I., Verbeke, W., 2006. Sustainable Food Consumption: Exploring the Consumer “Attitude – Behavioral Intention” [online]. , 19(2). Available at: http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s10806-005-5485-3 [Accessed 23 March 2021].

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BIBLIOGRAPHY Voyer, B., & Beckham, D. (2014). Can Sustainability be Luxurious? A Mixed-Method Investigation of Implicit and Explicit Attitudes towards Sustainable Luxury Consumption. ACR. https://www. acrwebsite.org/volumes/v42/acr_v42_17922.pdf Walker, J., 2017. Behaviours : Opinion Previous ArticleNext Article ARE LUXURY BRANDS DOING ENOUGH TO APPEAL TO GENERATION Z? [online]. LSN Global. Available at: https:// www-lsnglobal-com.ntu.idm.oclc.org/opinion/article/21524/are-luxury-brands-doing-enough-toappeal-to-generation-z [Accessed 10 March 2021].

Watkins, D., & Gioia, D. (2015, November). Mixed Methods Research. Oxford Scholarship. https://oxford.universitypressscholarship.com/view/10.1093/ acprof:oso/9780199747450.001.0001/acprof-9780199747450-chapter-1?print=pdf Wiedmann, K.-P., Hennigs, N., & Siebels, A. (2009). Value-based segmentation of luxury consumption behavior. Psychol. Mark., 26(7), 625–651. 10.1002/mar.20292 Williams, A., Hodges, N., 2020. Generation Z and Socially Responsible Fashion Consumption: Exploring the Value-Action Gap [online]. Available at: https://www.iastatedigitalpress.com/itaa/ article/11930/galley/11279/view/ [Accessed 23 March 2021].

Winograd, M., Hais, M.D., 2011. Millennial momentum: How a new generation is remaking America [online]. Research Gate. Available at: https://www.researchgate.net/ publication/293120100_Millennial_momentum_How_a_new_generation_is_remaking_America [Accessed 23 March 2021].

APPENDICES APPENDIX A SURVEY OF 123 GEN Z CONSUMERS Information & Consent

Question 1 (Thematically analysed on next spread)

Question 2

APPENDICES Question 3

Question 3: Additional responses

APPENDICES Question 1: What does the word luxury mean to you personally?

Key TKheeymTehsem &eTso& picTsopics

Expensive Expensive or high or high Quality/ Quality/ Treat or Treat or Celeb Branded/Branded/ designerdesigner price non-essential price durabilitydurability wealth non-essential

86 67 23 N o. of pN e oop. loef ipdeeonptilfeyi ni dge nwtiitfhyi nthgew mieth th e m e 86 67 23 % o f p e o p l e i d e n t i f y i n g t h e m e 69.9% 54.5% 18.7% % of peopl e i d en ti fyi n g th em e 69.9% 54.5% 18.7% Expensive, highexclusive quality, exclusive 1 1 Expensive, high quality, 1 1 Topexpensive quality, expensive 1 1 Top quality, items items 1 1 High quality, Luxe and fashionable 1 1 High quality, Luxe and fashionable 1 1 being of high quality 1 being of high quality 1 Something you purchase on aoccasion, special occasion, Something that you that purchase on a special that you that you 1 1 1 1 beafford. able to afford. wouldn'twouldn't normallynormally be able to highexpensive quality, expensive 1 1 high quality, 1 1 Expensive, branded, high quality (?)

1 1 Expensive, branded, high quality (?)

1 1 expensive & high quality 1 1 expensive & high quality 1 1 excess, money, lavish 1 excess, money, lavish 1 Luxury areI would things not I would not buy are a high Luxury items areitems things buy often andoften are aand high 1 1 designerdesigner brand. brand.

Highand quality and overpriced 1 1 High quality overpriced 1 1 Quality, brand heritage 1 Quality, brand heritage 1 Products which have been made to the highest level of Products which have been made to the highest level of 1 1 quality and craftsmanship quality and craftsmanship High quality 1 High quality 1 aesthetic high quality costly 1 1 aesthetic high quality costly 1 1 Expensive, quality, designer 1 1 Expensive, quality, designer 1 1 Expensive, stylish, quality 1 1 Expensive, stylish, quality 1 1 Expensive with a designer label 1 Expensive with a designer label 1 goodgood quality, good materials etc,expensive usually expensive 1 1 good quality, materials etc, usually 1 1 Expensive, good quality 1 1 Expensive, good quality 1 1 Something that makes me feel like I'm worth a million Something that makes me feel like I'm worth a million dollars I'm wearing it dollars when I'mwhen wearing it Exclusivity, quality, branding 1 Exclusivity, quality, branding 1 Expensive, money drain 1 1 Expensive, money drain 1 1 Wealth and extravagance 1 Wealth and extravagance 1 Expensive but not necessary 1 1 Expensive but not necessary 1 1 Rarely available to a majority of the population.

1 Rarely available to a majority of the population.

1 Expensive, top quailty 1 1 Expensive, top quailty 1 1 a guilty pleasure 1 a guilty pleasure 1 Expensive, top quailty 1 1 Expensive, top quailty 1 1 Something unique with history Something unique with history posh, expensive, usually good quality 1 1 posh, expensive, usually good quality 1 1 Highproducts quality products at aquality higherprice quality price 1 1 High quality at a higher 1 1 Good quality 1 Good quality 1 Quality, branding, recognition, elite 1 Quality, branding, recognition, elite 1 Well made, high class 1 Well made, high class 1 Super rich 1 Super rich 1 Exclusivity Exclusivity Fancy,then better then average.

Alsocost higher cost is I believe Fancy, better average.

Also higher is I believe 1 1 associated with the word associated with the word Something that is expensive and sophisticated Something that is expensive and sophisticated 1 1

15 15 12.2% 12.2%

1

1 11.

1

1 1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1 1 1

My perception luxury has changed years, I no My perception on luxuryonhas changed over the over years,theI no longer associate it with material goods but rather with longer associate it with material goods but rather with happiness and doing activities that will fulfil my happiness. happiness and doing activities that will fulfil my happiness.

Expensive, Expensive, Quality, Quality, Branded Branded Expensive, posh, treat Expensive, posh, treat expensive, social status expensive, social status

1 1 1

1 1 1

1

1 1

1

1

APPENDICES Thematic analysis of qualitative data. Page 1 of 3.

Celebrity/ wealth/status

Exclusivity & uniqueness

Style & aesethetics

Heritage & craftmanship

Luxe/lavish/extrav agance

Timeless

Happiness/ fulfilment

Sustainable

14 11.4%

14 11.4% 1

12 9.8%

9 7.3%

7 5.7%

4 3.3%

3 2.4%

2 1.6%

1

1

1

1

1 1

1

1 1 1 1

1

1

1 1 1 1

1

1

1

Super rich Exclusivity Fancy, better then average. Also higher cost is I believe associated with the word Something that is expensive and sophisticated

1

1 APPENDICES 1

My perception on luxury has changed over the years, I no longer associate it with material goods but rather with happiness and doing activities that will fulfil my happiness.

Expensive, Quality, Branded Expensive, posh, treat expensive, social status Expensive Valuable high class Luxury means upper market items from fashion brands and markets. It doesn't have to be from specific fashion brands and houses that we all know (like gucci, Fendi et) but from people and places that lead the way with fashion and craftsmanship.

1 1 1 1

Expensive or out of budget Expensive, well made, treat An item or service that is not essential.

Good quality and expensive Design focused, desirable Expensive, not a necessity, a treat.

Expensive. Good quality. Long lasting pieces. expensive, celebrity, rich Classy, rich, boojie Expensive, branded or high quality. expensive Good quality, expensive, unique Best quality branded products Expensive, designer, good materials Expensive, quality, prestige High price, rare, desirable Expensive, but quality Quality, expensive, in trend Expensive, indulgent High quality materials used for classic styles.

Goods which cost more than average Classy. Timeless. Beautiful expensive, high quality, stylish, elite Things you can do without/are of very high quality, but are nice to have.

Expensive, detailed, designer High end, long lasting Fancy. Rich. Elegant. Stylish yet sophisticated Expensive Elegance at expense Quality and experience Expensive, high-quality, exclusive An expensive, well known brand Quality, extra, expensive Expensive, high quality quality, finish, longevity A fancy word for way too expensive Good quality, expensive In general I'd say luxury is something you can want and buy but can live without. In terms of clothes I'd say luxury clothing is expensive, out priced items

1 1

1

1

1

Expensive, branded Expensive, exclusive, rare When you Google a company and it has triple pound signs in that summary box thing.

1 1

Good quality, usually expensive, often designer

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

1

1 1

1 1

1 1

1

1

1 1 1 1

1 1

1 1 1 1

1 1

1 1

1

1

1 1

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

1

1 1 1 1 1 1

1

1 1 1

1 1

APPENDICES Thematic analysis of qualitative data. Page 2 of 3.

1

1

1 1

1

1

1

1 1

1

1

1 1 1 1 1 1 1

1

1 1

1 1 1 1

1

1

1

Expensive, high quality quality, finish, longevity A fancy word for way too expensive Good quality, expensive In general I'd say luxury is something you can want and buy but can live without. In terms of clothes I'd say luxury clothing is expensive, out priced items

1

Expensive, branded Expensive, exclusive, rare When you Google a company and it has triple pound signs in that summary box thing.

1 1

1

APPENDICES 1

Good quality, usually expensive, often designer Sustainably made, couture clothing that is super expensive Good quality, expensive Expensive, high quality things/experiences that aren't necessar higher quality and price Good quality and beautiful Expensive good quality Surplus to what you need - often reserved for those with lots of dispensable income Expensive, lush Quality Heritage Price sustainable, ethical, timeless, practical Expensive, basic, Overpriced Immaculate quality, expensive and lavish Expensive, quality and lasting.

Luxury is things you want, but don't really need.

Expensive and high quality.

Expensive, good quality

Question 4

1 1 1

1

1 1

1 1

1

1

1 1

1

1

1

1

1 1 1

1 1

1

1

1 1

1

1 1 1

1 1

1 1

1 1

1

1

APPENDICES

1

Thematic analysis of qualitative data. Page 3 of 3.

1

1

1 1 1 1 1 1 1

Question 5

1

APPENDICES Question 6: Please explain your answer to the last question.

Positive/y

K e y The m e s & To p i c s N o . o f p e o p l e i d e n ti f y i n g w i th th e m e % o f p e o p l e i d e n ti f y i n g th e m e I tend to wear an outfit once or twice anyway. It's the best of both worlds. I get my nice price of clothings for less than the normal price and I'm also not wasting clothes!

Affordability

Experimentin with style

Sustainability

20 16.3%

28 22.8%

1

1

I dont see the point in wasting money on it Think it's a fab idea if you have an event that you'd usually buy a one off outfit for!

I haven't had any event to use it for If it is rental, it would be more affordable and be used for a special one off occasion i think it's a good idea Like the idea, feel like I'd do it for a dead special occasion like a really fancy wedding where I knew everyone was going to be in designer brands Most people only wear clothes once so it would save money and space I wouldn't use it because I would rather own the item then own it for a period of time. I don't like renting clothing more so to do with others knowing that I have rented items.

I have never used it personally as if I would have to purchase it and never wear the item again there would be little reason for me to rent.

I would use it for one off occasions or maybe to decide if I like an item before actually buying it

1

1

I'd use it if I'd have the need to, haven't really looked into it It's a great way to implement sustainable practices I feel it is a good option for occasions, where you may not be able to buy the item but rent to use for a special occasion

1

1 1

Havent looked into it and isnt advertised at all Good idea, as it's probably cheaper. And fashion changes so much its nice to be able to keep up by renting items.

1 I like the idea but it's still incredibly expensive I wouldn't want to rent something that has been used or worn by a large number of people if it was an good quality dress which for example was expensive and i could not find that quality for cheaper but i know i would never wear again and it was for w special occasion such as a wedding then maybe. but i would never rent anything like designer shoes or bag for an occasion just to look to others like i have money.

1 Its a good idea because it saves money but I didnt know it existed until recently and havent had the chance to use it yet.

For a party or event I like to wear nice items and normally buy from charity shops as they often sell designer goods for cheaper prices. This would be a good alternative for the cost and sustainability aspect as I'd probably only wear it once.

1

1 I believe for specific occasions its a good way to invest in luxury fashion that you wouldnt otherwise get the wear out of in day to day life Id only use this for when i needed some wedding pieces but i reallt dont need to keep them after the wedding I wouldn't use it as it defeats the purpose of luxury fashion. Just renting it for a day or so doesnt mean you own it and it's just for show. The whole point of luxury is owning it and having the money to spend and flaunt it as you like. It's almost like a lifestyle.

I like to have my own things.

Good to use when I don''t have anything to wear to fancy events.

Wouldnt want to wear clothes that someone else has worn. i''m scared of germs, dead skin..

Wouldnt want to wear clothes that someone else has worn.

I've never had an opportunity don't have a need to wear luxury clothes It can be a more sustainable way for people to keep up with the latest trends Good idea for not buy clothes for 1 day. Weddings for example I like the idea for occasions or is there is something you would like to try out without having the commitment of buying it. I have never used it as I am unsure of trustworthy companies who do this and also haven''t had an occasion to try it.

1

1 1

1 1

1 Luxury fashion is expensive so being able to rent it for a short time will let people enjoy it without worrying about the cost I don''t have a purpose to. I just think renting clothes or items are unnecessary.

Haven't had the opportunity to use the service I do not require luxury fashion pieces Because in my country females rent clothes more than we do

1

3.3

APPENDICES Thematic analysis of qualitative data. Page 1 of 3.

yes

ng

4 3%

Neutral/maybe One off outfits/ occasions 26 21.1%

Negative/no

Lack of Not had a reason Hygiene/ knowledge/Choc Prefer ownership Unecessary to use it damage worries e

Trying luxury without commitment 18 14.6%

17 13.8%

12 9.8%

16 13.0%

10 8.1%

10 8.1%

Still expensive

Superficiality

4 3.3%

11 8.9%

1 1 1 1 1

1

1

1

1 1

1

1 1

1

1 1 1 1 1

1

1 1

1

1 1 1

1 1

1

1 1 1 1

1

1

1

1 1

1 1 1

1

almost like a lifestyle.

I like to have my own things.

Good to use when I don''t have anything to wear to fancy events.

Wouldnt want to wear clothes that someone else has worn. i''m scared of germs, dead skin..

Wouldnt want to wear clothes that someone else has worn.

I've never had an opportunity don't have a need to wear luxury clothes It can be a more sustainable way for people to keep up with the latest trends Good idea for not buy clothes for 1 day. Weddings for example I like the idea for occasions or is there is something you would like to try out without having the commitment of buying it. I have never used it as I am unsure of trustworthy companies who do this and also haven''t had an occasion to try it.

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1 Luxury fashion is expensive so being able to rent it for a short time will let people enjoy it without worrying about the cost I don''t have a purpose to. I just think renting clothes or items are unnecessary.

Haven't had the opportunity to use the service I do not require luxury fashion pieces Because in my country females rent clothes more than we do I had heard of it but never came across the opportunity to use it. But maybe in the future I will if needed I''m not comfortable wearing something that someone else has once worn it but maybe if it is sanitised and steamed properly so I''d try it out for fun Would be nice if you wanted something for an occasion but didn''t want to pay loads of money

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1 I'm just not that interested in it Because it''s living a fake life, renting clothes is like wearing clothes and keeping the label to send back after because you can''t afford it I don''t like the idea as I think it''s ridiculous that people want things for the name and picture rather than investing in the brand, the culture and the history. A lot of ready-to-wear fashion is for the name only. When I buy designer it''s because it''s an investment piece.

Seems more value for money and more sustainable because it's not just in someone's wardrobe 1 I don't like the idea of only wearing something once, so if I had to it would be rented.

I don''t have much need for it however I appreciate how much more sustainable it is for people who have a desire to wear designer or luxury brands.

It allows you to feel that sense of luxury for a bit without paying a full fee If I like an item, I would want to keep it. I am not focused on creating new looks regularly. I would rather have less items but they be mine.

I''d be really happy to use it however I have never been aware of any rentals that I could use.

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For people who like to keep changing their clothes is a good idea so they don''t throw out good clothes.

Because when you buy a very expensive bag, you will only have that one, but if you can rent one, you will have the posibility to change bags a lot, without having it to throw away Because I would like to buy my own luxury products It just seems unnecessary to "rent" clothing items. It feels too materialistic.

I don't know what it means I''ve just not used it yet!

Great concept never had the chance to use it accessibility to the store I just wouldn''t be inclined to do it whatsoever, if I can''t afford I wouldn''t want to risk damaging it and then having to pay. In terms of clothing I wouldn''t expect much availability to myself as a plus size woman.

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Sometimes I like to just wear things once and it means I could try more things without having to worry about space or only wanting to wear it for one occasion Heard of it, but never come across it anywhere, so never used it I didn''t have the chance to use it, but it''s interesting.

It encourages unhealthy competition to look like you can afford designer/luxury items, could encourage people to be more materialistic if rental is more accessible for an image on social media I would use it as I''d like to try more statement pieces I don''t see the point of renting items when you could just buy it and have it forevee I would use it because it''s a sustainable and cheaper way to wear high quality luxury Great for something you know you''ll wear once I've not heard of it before I think fashion operates best on a circular system, as it is the most sustainable option. Renting is a great choice for sustainability as it gives more life to a garment and doesn''t create fashion waste.

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1 Would prefer to own my items It''s be good to trial run clothes before purchasing fully.

I just don't do luxury fashion or even fashion rentals in general if not needed Haven''t had the opportunity to do so just yet.

Because one of the things I like about luxury is the experience of owning. It feels nice to have something unique to you.

To me luxury fashion usually entails staple pieces of my wardrobe, I like to get use out of my money, which is why I''d like to wear it everyday.

Think it''s great for occasions as generally you only wear the dress/ outfit once.

People are getting a lot of money for it and if I want something I''d rather keep it

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I would use it as I''d like to try more statement pieces I don''t see the point of renting items when you could just buy it and have it forevee I would use it because it''s a sustainable and cheaper way to wear high quality luxury Great for something you know you''ll wear once I've not heard of it before I think fashion operates best on a circular system, as it is the most sustainable option. Renting is a great choice for sustainability as it gives more life to a garment and doesn''t create fashion waste.

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1 Would prefer to own my items It''s be good to trial run clothes before purchasing fully.

I just don't do luxury fashion or even fashion rentals in general if not needed Haven''t had the opportunity to do so just yet.

Because one of the things I like about luxury is the experience of owning. It feels nice to have something unique to you.

To me luxury fashion usually entails staple pieces of my wardrobe, I like to get use out of my money, which is why I''d like to wear it everyday.

Think it''s great for occasions as generally you only wear the dress/ outfit once.

People are getting a lot of money for it and if I want something I''d rather keep it I don''t want to spend my disposable income on this (I''m a student) An affordable way to enjoy luxury fashion without the huge expense of buying it. I presume this is also a more sustainable fashion choice as less quantities of items would need to be produced 1 allow more use out of clothing (eg formal dress for formal event such as wedding) I don''t like the idea of wearing something someone else has sweat into. Also brands don''t matter to me so I don''t see the point in renting them, but that''s my own personal opinion, I think it''s a great option for people who really care about what brands they wear but can''t afford the higher end fashion

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1 Quality is the most important thing for me, so I wouldn't necessarily be going after luxury brands. i think it's a good idea though, so if I wanted luxury, i'd try it.

It''s a good idea for those who want to wear luxury items but don''t want to keep it or pay the full price tag (assuming renting would be cheaper to appeal to these types of customers) I would rent normal clothing, eg formal wear, but I wouldn''t rent luxury clothing. I don''t see the point as I personally don''t feel the need to own/have luxury branded products I don''t like the thought of wearing something some one else has worn, also if I can''t afford to buy something I simply wouldn''t have it. Renting it could lead to image issues where people believe their counterparts can afford luxuries/high value items and make them feel inadequate if they can''t as I can''t imagine many would admit to simply ˜renting'' the clothes It's a good idea, if you have the money I haven''t seen it advertised anywhere so haven''t used it before For certain events I would love to wear something high end but would love to just be able to rent it for the evening and give it back.

It sounds like borrowing clothes but from strangers. Makes me feel it''s for the brand name as opposed to the clothing piece.e.g being able to say you''re wearing a ted baker dress instead of ASOS own I would use it because I think it's definitely more sustainable and also much less expensive than buying the designer pieces

Question 7

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APPENDICES Question 8: Please explain your answer to the last question.

Yes because…

K e y The m e s & To p i c s N o . o f p e o p l e i d e n ti f y i n g w i th th e m e % o f p e o p l e i d e n ti f y i n g th e m e If it was preserved to a good quality why not. Less money to spend!

Can be cheaper but look brand new I would buy it if it was affordable I buy all of my clothes secondhand because its cheaper Usually cheaper and more sustainable better for the environment and is probably more rare More affordable! And usually fab condition If it's still good quality and looks good then i don't see a reason why not I would get the item for cheaper and as long as it is in good condition and authentic, I don't see a problem with it.

The value for money Yes because items tend to be more rare and less people have them as apposed to when you buy new, they are also cheaper!

Cheaper price point, if it's a good quality item then why not, I'm really open into buying second-hand fashion

Luxury lasts and holds value

More affordable 44 36.1%

Not profiting large/ff companies

15 12.3%

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It encourages sustainability It reduces wastage and saves you money at the same time If its luxury fashion I assume it is of high quality and so being second hand wouldnt bother me as I would see it as an investment in the long run Definitely would. I think its good to try reuse items others dont want.

Someone else wearing a garment before me wouldnt make it any less beautiful Dependent on the amount of wear and condition of the item. yes if i could be sure the item was real and it remained good quality . these tend to be cheaper as well so its a win win I'm very happy to own second hand clothes and if the item is in good condition it's a good way of getting quality for less money.

As explained above I do already! I love buying second-hand because you can find so many good pieces for a brilliant price I think you get more unique pieces, you can invest in the heritage of a brand and explore different designers within a particular brand at a more affordable price and in a more sustainable manner.

Always love a bargain and I grew up buying or being given second hand things If you cant buy it out right, theres no point buying it second hand. Either you have it or you dont Cheaper and creates less waste You dont know whos owned/ treated the potentially expensive item before youve received it.

Wouldnt feel like i was gonna get a luxury item, as quality might change. Rather pay more money for better quality

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if its professionally cleaned Totally love the idea, giving the second chance to something unwanted, reusing old items and buying it cheaper 1 I would if I find a cheap one in a charity shop or elsewhere. They're usually a good quality I often shop second hand whether its luxury or not, not only is it better for the envrionment but its usually a lot cheaper too Sustainability I find with vintage luxury you are able to find pieces no one else has and that makes it more exciting then normal retail Buying second hand stuff are so much cheaper!

I would because usually people keep their luxury items in good condition so you wouldnt even be able to tell it was second hand, also it saves money!

Yes I would buy second hand luxury because its about the style. If it works it works, then I go ahead and buy it.

I don't think I need it :) Because you may find something you like with half the price I would buy it if I needed it and if I thought I was actually going to use it. But I wouldnt buy it just for the sake of it or because I thought it was something luxurious that I needed to own to prove something.

Buying means ill own it forever Luxury items tend to last better It's cheaper If youre gonna buy a luxury brand, do it properly Buying second hand designer is best not only as a consumer for the planet. When you buy mass market designer pieces a lot of the time the bags do not hold their value, unlike very rare and expensive bags like Chanel and

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Depends if/on

ore able/les aste 37 30.3%

Rarity

8 6.6%

Experience luxury for less

Authenticity is proven

4 3.3%

7 5.7%

It is the right style 8 6.6%

No because…

Professionally the type of item cleaned 1 0.8%

1 0.8%

Quality is preserved

It wouldn't be luxury anymore

33 27.0%

6 4.9%

I don’t know the items history

I want it new

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second hand, also it saves money!

Yes I would buy second hand luxury because its about the style. If it works it works, then I go ahead and buy it.

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I don't think I need it :) Because you may find something you like with half the price I would buy it if I needed it and if I thought I was actually going to use it. But I wouldnt buy it just for the sake of it or because I thought it was something luxurious that I needed to own to prove something.

Buying means ill own it forever Luxury items tend to last better It's cheaper If youre gonna buy a luxury brand, do it properly Buying second hand designer is best not only as a consumer for the planet. When you buy mass market designer pieces a lot of the time the bags do not hold their value, unlike very rare and expensive bags like Chanel and Hermes. Therefore, if you want a lower or middle market designer bag like Gucci or Versace its more economical to get it on the resale market.

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1 More wear out of a good quality product More sustainable and giving life into a great product Any pre-owned clothing is much more sustainable than buying new. I also like it because high street clothing stores only sell whats in fashion where sometimes thats not something I personally want to wear.

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Pre-loved items are nice & are normally rare and vintage.

If I trust the seller and can authenticate it, I am interested if priced correctly Ive often bought luxury fashion from sites such as Depop.

If it was still in good condition to give clothes a second life I just don't like luxury brands Because if I want it, I would buy it brand new It's cheaper and I do not care for brands. If I liked the clothing it wouldn't matter if it were branded/luxury or not.

It's cheaper and better for the planet Theres nothing wrong with pre loved clothes!

Becomes a new item to the next owner and so on I would to be more sustainable All designer goods that contain leather I have and would buy second hand. I feel as a vegetarian this is an appropriate approach to consuming designer goods within my personal morals

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I buy lots of clothes second hand, if I really like a piece of clothing I dont really mind if its new or second hand As long as the quality is still good Id happily buy luxury items second hand If its authentic, definitely would buy a SH one.

I dont buy designer Its more sustainable I would consider it for items and brands that have had large price increases (Chanel) and rarer items (Birkin, Kelly) Cheaper and more sustainable quality should be durable It's cheaper, more sustainable and better for the planet. Also contributes to the circular economy rather than giving over more money to big companies I try shopping second hand as much as possible, it is more sustainable than buying first-hand. I don see any problems with second hand luxury goods. An issue would be authenticity, as people could try to scam however. yes as its often cheaper but same high quality Its depends on the quality or state of the products. Eg. If it had a hole in then Id maybe reconsider.

It depends on the quality and authenticity Luxury fashion comes at great expense. Second hand items allow luxurious items to be more accessible

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As long as itâs good quality Depends on price or resale and if it was still in a good condition If the item is in good condition I would buy second hand, because there is no need to buy new when there is a perfectly good (reduced price I presume) version available.

As long as the item of clothing is in good condition it makes no difference either way, and it is probably cheaper second hand and more sustainable Same as above, Im just not a fan of wearing something thats been worn before, especially by a stranger Less waste/need for more products to be made and hopefully cheaper.

If there was something I saw I really wanted I would rather but it second hand as it cheaper.

I would buy any pre-loved clothing if the price was reasonable for the quality and condition of the item I dont like the thought of buying something some one has used/worn. People have different hygiene levels & I dont think its nice to use something that some one once classified as their own. If I cant buy it new I wouldnt buy it, second hand to me simply wouldnt be luxurious More sustainable than fast fashion and likely to be more affordable Depends on if its a good deal

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If the item is in good condition I would buy second hand, because there is no need to buy new when there is a perfectly good (reduced price I presume) version available.

As long as the item of clothing is in good condition it makes no difference either way, and it is probably cheaper second hand and more sustainable Same as above, Im just not a fan of wearing something thats been worn before, especially by a stranger

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Less waste/need for more products to be made and hopefully cheaper.

If there was something I saw I really wanted I would rather but it second hand as it cheaper.

I would buy any pre-loved clothing if the price was reasonable for the quality and condition of the item I dont like the thought of buying something some one has used/worn. People have different hygiene levels & I dont think its nice to use something that some one once classified as their own. If I cant buy it new I wouldnt buy it, second hand to me simply wouldnt be luxurious More sustainable than fast fashion and likely to be more affordable Depends on if its a good deal I love second hand clothes and stops them going to landfill It would need to be in very good condition for me to consider buying anything second hand. I donate a lot of my designer things instead of selling them I already but second-hand clothes so I would definitely buy second-hand designer clothes as long as in good enough condition As long as it is in good condition. However I think a lot of the designer thing is that it is in fashion. So if it is too far out of fashion maybe not If Im paying for luxury I want it fresh I love buying second-hand because I know its better for production and the environment - you also get really good bargains sometimes!

Its too expensive to buy now You dont receive a luxury experience Yes - if something is made well then it should be reused.

I like to keep my items looking as new, so would like a new item to keep it in the best condition.

Its still luxury its just pre-owned Its durable and luxury should last a long time!

I would definitely buy luxury second-hand, because it would probably be cheaper, but not necessarily worse in quality. It seems like a really good option.

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APPENDICES APPENDIX B PROJECT INFO SHEET PROJECT INFORMATION SHEET Project Title: Research Report What is the project about?

The project aims to investigate the value of sustainability in the luxury fashion market. I am looking at Generation Z's (people born between 1997 and 2010) attitudes toward sustainability and how/if these impact their consumption on luxury fashion.

Who is running this project?

I am in my final year of study and am currently writing up a research report with the above focus. I have undertaken interviews before and have been trained in the professional ethics of data collection in this format.

Why have I been chosen to take part?

You have been asked to kindly take part in this study as you are a part of the Generation Z (born between 1997 and 2010) cohort and have expressed that you are an active or occasional luxury fashion buyer or have an interest in purchasing a luxury item.

What do you want me to do?

I would like you to please take part in an interview of no longer than 30 minutes. The interview will most likely be carried out on Microsoft Teams, Zoom, or another app enabling video/voice call due to COVID-19 restrictions. The date and time of the interview can be worked around your schedule and will be confirmed with you imminently once you have approved this information and signed the consent form.

Do I have to take part?

Participation in this study is optional and you have the right to withdraw at any time until 12th April 2021.

What data will you collect from me?

As the project concerns luxury fashion, I am interested in what qualities you look for in luxury fashion products and the types of items you buy. As I am looking into sustainability, I would like to get your opinion on areas such as luxury fashion rental or buying pre-loved luxury items. I am also interested in what qualities you look for in luxury fashion products and the types of items you buy. To fully understand these motivations, I may ask for your occupation and to confirm you are between the ages of 18-24. It will be a structured informal chat; however, I do need to audio record the interview as I am required to provide a transcript as evidence for my assessment. If you are uncomfortable with being audio recorded, please let me know and I will transcribe the interview manually during the interview or we can carry it out via email.

How will you protect my confidentiality and anonymity?

Your data will be kept confidential and will not be shared with anyone other than my tutor. The interview transcript and any other information you provide me with, will be stored securely in a digital file which only I have access to. This transcript will only be shared with my tutor and can be fully anonymised if required. I have provided a consent form where you can either waive or express your need for anonymity in writing – please make sure you only tick one of the options and not both.

By asking you to sign a consent form, and storing your data securely as described above, I am complying with legal requirements stated in the General Data Protection Regulation.

APPENDICES APPENDIX B PROJECT INFO SHEET What will happen to the results?

The transcript of this interview will be summarized and shared with my tutors at Nottingham Trent University as well as the board of examiners when they assess my work. Quotes from this interview will be used throughout my work to support the points I am making; this piece of work may also be shared on my professional portfolio which will be accessible through my professional social media page.

How can I find out more about this project and its results?

For more information about this project, you can contact me (Heather Spenceley) via email at N0829119@my.ntu.ac.uk. Alternatively, you can contact the University tutor supervising me on this project (Sara Han) at sara.han@ntu.ac.uk.

APPENDICES APPENDIX C CONSENT FORM

CONSENT FORM Project Title: Research Report Please read and confirm your consent to being interviewed for this project by ticking the appropriate boxes and signing and dating this form. On point 4, please ensure you only tick one option.

1. I confirm that the purpose of the project has been explained to me and I have been given information about it in writing. I have had the opportunity to ask questions about the project and these have been answered satisfactorily.

2. I understand that my participation is voluntary, and that I am free to withdraw at any time until 12th April 2021 without giving any reason and without any negative implications.

3. I give permission for the interview to be audio recorded and understand that the recording will be destroyed at the end of the project.

4. I wish my data to be anonymised. I understand that quotations from my interview may be used in the student’s work but that I will not be identified.

OR I waive my right to anonymity and wish for my name to be included in this study. I understand that quotations from my interview may be used in the student’s presentation and that I will be identified by name.

5. I am over the age of 18.

6. I agree to take part in this project.

Participant’s name

Date

Student’s name

Date

Contact Details Researcher: Heather Spenceley Email: heather.spenceley2018@my.ntu.ac.uk Supervisor/Tutor: Sara Han Email: Sara.han@ntu.ac.uk

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_

Signature

Signature

APPENDICES APPENDIX D SIGNED INTERVIEWEE CONSENT FORMS PARTICIPANT 1

APPENDICES PARTICIPANT 2

APPENDICES PARTICIPANT 3

APPENDICES PARTICIPANT 4

APPENDICES PARTICIPANT 5

APPENDICES APPENDIX E PLANNED INTERVIEW QUESTION FRAMEWORK Q1. How often do you purchase luxury fashion?

Q2. Do you also buy from more affordable brands?

Q3. What draws you to buy luxury fashion items?

Q4. What’s your opinion on luxury fashion rental?

Like it

What items?

Don’t like it

Why?

What if it was the only way to a access the product?

Why?

Q5. Do you know what conscious/sustainable consumption means?

No Explain it

Yes

Would you say you buy sustainably/ consciously?

Q6. Do you think luxury brands could encourage this type of consumption?

Q7. If a luxury fashion product was labelled sustainable, how would you feel about this?

APPENDICES APPENDIX E Q8. If a luxury fashion product was labelled recycled, how would you feel about this?

Q9. (Explain H&M loyalty scheme) What do you think about an incentive/loyalty scheme where you earn points through sustainable acts, such as buying from a recycled range, rent a product instead of buying it or donate old clothes to a recycling scheme. The points could add up to exclusive experiences, releases etc.

APPENDIX F H&M CONSCIOUS POINTS SCHEME

H&M. (n.d.). H&M Conscious points scheme. H&M. Retrieved April 08, 2021, from https://www2.hm.com/en_gb/member/info.html

APPENDICES APPENDIX G INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS PARTICIPANT 1 Heather Spenceley How often do you purchase luxury fashion?

Participant 1 Luxury is in like high end and designer?

Heather Spenceley Yeah.

Participant 1 Oh, like, once a year, rarely. But I’d like to buy more!

Heather Spenceley What draws you to buy luxury fashion?

Participant 1 The fact that not everyone can just buy it because no one can not everyone can afford it. And it’s obviously like a small percentage of people are able to buy, you know, the more expensive products. And then if you go to primark, for example, and you see that top everywhere whereas if you buy a Fendi top, like nobody has it because they can’t afford it. So you feel like superior or special.

Heather Spenceley Yeah. Okay.

And what do you know what luxury rental is?

Participant 1 Is that where you can like pay monthly to rent the thing? And then you’ve got to send it back?

Heather Spenceley Yeah. So you can get it for three months? And you can send it back? What is your opinion on that?

Participant 1 There’s two sides to it. For me, I think like, it’s really it’s good. I think for people that can’t afford it. But then I also think if you can’t afford it, why would you just buy basically for same amount of money that you could rent it for? For a lot less money, then you can have it forever, people just buy for the brand and say, Oh, look at my Gucci bag that could probably buy from topshop and it looks exactly the same. People I feel like people just do it for the brand to show off. Oh, I have a Gucci, you know, bag or whatever.

Heather Spenceley Yeah.

APPENDICES APPENDIX G INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS What about if it was something for an event? Or a one off thing?

Participant 1 Yeah, I think for that sort of thing. It’s good. Like if you thought like, Oh my god, that looks so good for this outfit, because I’m going to his ball then in that side of things, I think Yeah, definitely.

Yes. It completely depends on the situation doesn’t it?

Heather Spenceley Yeah, okay. And do you know what conscious consumption means or sustainable consumption.

Participant 1 No, what’s that?

Heather Spenceley So it’s basically like, considering a bit more before you buy. So considering like, how often you’re gonna wear it. The materials it’s made out of. And that sort of thing, just putting a bit more consideration in to how it’s been made and how you will use it before you buy it.

Participant 1 Yeah.

Heather Spenceley On a scale of one to 10...How sustainable or conscious would you say that you are when buying fashion?

Participant 1 To be like completely honest, I would definitely say like a two or three. I’m actually looking to start my own clothing brand and my initial thought was I’d love for it to be sustainable. Or like use like really high end like, fabrics and things. But it’s very expensive to obviously do that. I think, for me, like when I’m sat there like looking for clothes, like I’m on Topshop, or Zara, I’m looking for like, I’m looking at how it looks and looking what it’s made of but on the other end, when I’m buying hoodies and joggers, you know, your comfortable clothes. I want it to be like 100% organic cotton and I want it to be like really like good fabrics. So I do kind of think more with those products. I think if you’re buying something and you see on the comments like at the bottom saying this is sustainable, you think oh, like I’m helping the earth. But I would never look for something purely for the sustainability. Unfortunately. Maybe I should change that.

Heather Spenceley No, no it’s difficult! But do you think like luxury brands could help you improve this or maybe do it a bit more often, or shop more sustainably.

Participant 1 Yeah, definitely. I think it’s something that definitely needs needs to happen. Obviously, in this world, this day and age, there’s a brand called Tala, you know, gym wear and that’s sustainable and

APPENDICES APPENDIX G INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS the business owner, she purely bases this brand, she wants it to be sustainable as possible. And she’s trying to get other companies and other brands to do the same. And I think a lot of people buy from her brands, not only because it’s a good brand, but because of behind it the thought process behind it. And this whole transparency in where she’s getting the clothing made and what from. She’s making sure like it’s using like recycled bottles and like things like that. Yeah. It definitely needs to happne but I’m not sure how.

Heather Spenceley And it’s more transparent, isn’t it as well, like she is more honest and open about what they’re doing and things like that. Is that something that you appreciate?

Participant 1 Yeah. 100%.

Heather Spenceley And you’ve kind of already answered this to be fair, but if a luxury fashion product was labelled sustainable. What impact would it have on your buying it?

Participant 1 Yeah, like, I think it wouldn’t make me go on we’re gonna have to buy it because it’s sustainable.

But I guess it would make you feel good for buying it. Thank you know, I’ve done something, you know, for the world.

Heather Spenceley Yeah, exactly. So it was like a product that you’d like, sustainable. And you want it anyway, then it would just be like a bonus?

Participant 1 Yeah, exactly.

Heather Spenceley This is my last question! What do you think about, like an incentive scheme where you earn points through, like sustainable or conscious acts. So say you buy from a brands conscious collection, or you rent an item for a rental collection you’d get points added, and then eventually, those points can add up and you can get benefits from them, like maybe first or exclusive releases. What do you think of that?

Participant 1 Yeah, I think it’s a good way of kind of getting people to do it because they have a reward for it.

Whereas when you’re just when you’re just saying or buy something sustainable, it’s like, well, what’s in it? For me? It’s more expensive, like, what am I getting out of it? Whereas the points can kind of drag people into it. And then that when they see that maybe the clothing is actually better made? And all these kinds of other things come into it, they think, and obviously, the point is, well, it’s definitely beneficial for them. So I think it’s a good idea.

Heather Spenceley yeah. Okay, cool. And what about if that was applied to a luxury brand?

APPENDICES APPENDIX G INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS Participant 1 Yeah, I guess it wouldn’t make sense if it’s a luxury brand, because luxury brands are so high and they don’t say that you never get like student discount, for example, on these kind of products that kind of just that that’s just they’re so in a way it might make it feel less exclusive. But I think if you were offering things other than discounts then it’s a good idea and that would probably outweigh it.

Heather Spenceley Yeah.

Participant 1 Yeah. Yeah.

Heather Spenceley Okay, yeah. That’s all my Questions!

Thank you so much for doing this. I do really appreciate it.

Participant 1 Yeah, no worries.

Heather Spenceley Thank you, bye!

PARTICIPANT 2

APPENDICES APPENDIX G INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS

Heather Spenceley How often do you purchase luxury items?

Participant 2 Not very often.

Heather Spenceley Would you say you buy more affordable brands?

Participant 2 Yeah, it’s a mixture of both but mainly affordable brands - I’m a student!

Heather Spenceley And what would like what would draw you to buy a luxury fashion item?

Participant 2 They times I have bought luxury fashion items was when they were on sale or discounted? Like, for example, sometimes, like 170 pound normally reduced to like, 40 pound, I’d jump on that. Or like, I guess, if it was significantly, like better quality than it’s affordable, counterparts. But like, I mean, like, I feel to like, See the difference.

Heather Spenceley Yeah. So you wouldnt buy it for the brand name? There has to more like, reasons why you pay more for it?

Participant 2 Yeah, exactly. Because a lot of this stuff, you know, is produced in the same factories anyway, but just print a different name on it.

Heather Spenceley And do you know, luxury rental is?

Participant 2 I don’t maybe know what specifically luxury rental is but I’ve seen some influencers recently, like renting clothes?

Heather Spenceley Yeah. Yeah. That’s pretty. That’s pretty much what it is.

Participant 2 It’s like, you rent an outfit from like, a website in it? And then you give it back? Yeah.

Heather Spenceley Yeah. And sometimes at the end of it, you can end up buyig it, but most, of the time you send it back to a rental agency or a retailer and get back and they will take care of cleaning it etc. So what

APPENDICES APPENDIX G INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS is your opinion on that?

Participant 2 I mean, I guess it’s a great option for people that like, especially like can’t afford luxury, but want it.

Like, you know, good, you get it, take your pics go for your fancy events or whatever. And then, you know, don’t have to worry about you know, hurting your pocket too deep or stuff like that. And, you know, like, I’ve heard like, I’ve seen it, like TV shows and movies that like, you know, whenever people have like proms or whatever, you know, they always rent the suit and stuff like those things.

But yeah, so like, I guess like renting clothes has been around for a while. And like luxury rentals probably popping off now. Because like, luxury design stuff is so pushed on us younger people these days. Because like, you want to be seen as like, having the best drip and all that stuff in it. But personally, me I just personally wouldn’t rent clothes. Just because like, I have no problem buying Pre Owned stuff. Like I don’t mind that. But I don’t like the idea of renting stuff just because like, I’m messy. I don’t wanna have to worry about like, Oh, crap, like, I’ve rip this top. Oh, no, like, I spilled something on it. And now like, not only am I going to be charged for rental, but I’m also now gonna be charged for like, replacing the item you know, rather, you know, just buy it then I can mess up. Yeah.

Heather Spenceley Yeah, okay I get that. And what if it was the only way to access like a certain product? So like, say if a brand brought out like a collection and you really liked one of the products, but you weren’t able to buy it? You could only rent it would that interest you?

Participant 2 I’d just go without it to be honest. Yeah, like, honestly, like I’m really not someone is attached to brand names at all. I don’t care for them.

Heather Spenceley Yeah. No, that makes total sense.

And do you know what sustainable or conscious consumption means?

Participant 2 Like I guess I did see an Instagram story on this yesterday. I’m guessing it’s like buying consciously by not just buying clothes for the sake of like, oh my god mini hauls, things like this and whatever but buying when you actually need to replace things and then sourcing it from like, ethical manufacturers. But you know, people that pay living wages, people that make sustainable clothing, so clothing that’s not cheap fabric, not recyclable and stuff like that.

Heather Spenceley Yeah. You’ve pretty much hit the nail on the head. It’s just being more sustainable, like being made from renewable materials and basically, conscious consumption just like considering the impact of your purchase more before you buy something. So like, how many times am I gonna wear this like, how, you know, the kind of what you’re gonna get out of it rather than being impulsive. Yeah. So, would you say that you buy like that? Or would you say you shop a bit more impulsively?

Participant 2

APPENDICES APPENDIX G INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS I probably I’m more of a conscious consumer just because I very much I don’t like wasting money.

So like, I’ll definitely be thinking like, what am I? Do I already have some that looks like this? How like what do I need it for? Like, do I have other things to match? What am I going to be wearing this still one year from like, you know? Yeah, like that essentially?

Heather Spenceley Yeah. So you’re conscious in how you shop.

Participant 2 Yeah, yeah, definitely not an impulse buyer.

Heather Spenceley Do you think there’s any way that luxury brands could improve that consumption and make people consume a bit more consciously? Do you think it’s up to the brands? Or do you think it’s up to the consumer?

Participant 2 Oh, do you know what yeah, this is actually really interesting, cuz I read a whole Twitter thread about this, and about how like the effects of capitalism and like consumption And that people always say, like, its up to the brands or whatever to do this. But like, a lot of times, they follow up with what we say and stuff like that. So like, for example, they said that in the past, brands used to come up with collections and stuff at a slower rate, because people didn’t buy clothes as often as they do now. Now, it’s constantly like one trend to the next trend to the next trend to brands have to go fast, which means they end up cutting corners, and using less ethical production choice and stuff like that. So it is on the consumer. But then I think it’s also on the brands too, because like if they keep on, you know, using influencers, I guess like, because brands are the ones who will start influencing culture in it. So they keep having influence and influence in order to drive people, they always have to often like the latest clothes, stuff like that. I can’t remember where I started.

Heather Spenceley Yeah don’t worry! We were discussing if its up to brands or consumers to make more sustainable decisions.

Participant 2 Oh yeah, I think it’s kind of a mixture of both? Like, if we if we stopped buying it, then they’d stop making it.

Heather Spenceley Yeah, okay, for sure. And what about if a product was labeled sustainable? Like, would that have an impact on if you wanted to buy it or not? That would have a negative or a positive impact, or a neutral impact?

Participant 2 I’d say at this current point in my life, it wouldn’t have a negative impact at all. I’d say it has a slightly positive impact. At the same time, like I say, at this point in my life, I love to be able to buy something all the time, but then there I am a student. And like these sustainable stuff do tend to be a bit hefty. That’s, it’s like, I would love to buy something. But then like, in my head, I’m just like, a

APPENDICES APPENDIX G INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS 40 pound on this top or you know 40 pounds on a food shop? You have to really weigh up. And it’s like, you’ve you might actually need like, obviously, like, you need a new top. Yeah, your old tops got a hole in it, but at the same time, like, if I buy this top, yes it’s sustainable and I feel good. but like, I can’t afford my food, then. If I buy the five pound, unsustainable top.

Heather Spenceley Yeah exactly. Yeah.

Participant 2 And then also, like, I disagree with like, like people often always say that, Oh, well, you pay for quality. Like, you know, cheap clothes break after like 10 minutes. I thought like, I’m very much an outlier in this, because I don’t know about you guys, but my clothes don’t break that quick! Yes, exactly. I literally have like stuff I bought from Pollock when I was like 14 that I still have now. So it’s like, my incentive to buy sustainably isn’t based on that mentality of like, oh, it will last longer because it won’t last thing any longer than my other clothes. It’s more based on that. I know that it’s like, more ethical. Like that’s what makes it a positive thing for me. So like I would love to buy sustainably all the time. I remember I even found I found a cheap hand wash which was like vegan and like sustainable and stuff like that. And I just started buying that stuff like okay, I can afford it and I’m making better choices? So yes, like I’d love to make more sustainable choices.

Heather Spenceley Yeah but at this time in your life, price is stopping you. So would that be the same if, if the product was labeled as recycled?

Participant 2 That’s just like that’s like when they reuse like fabrics and stuff.

Heather Spenceley Yeah, so that’s where the old materials are broken down and processed into new whole products.

Not like upcycling which is where the existing product is just given a new purposes - so cutting jeans into shorts.

Participant 2 I mean, yeah, if it looks good. Why not?

Heather Spenceley Yeah.

Participant 2 But in all fairness I have seen some, some suspicious looking recycled clothes. So if I look at it and it’s like, Okay, this thing’s looking worn out, I’m probably not gonna buy it, because why would I buy something worn out, you know? But um, unless it’s like pre loved, but if it looks fine, i’ll happily buy it?

Heather Spenceley Yeah, this is my last question. So what what do you think to H&M’s new incentive scheme where you earn points for like conscious or sustainable decisions. So like, say you buy from their conscious

APPENDICES APPENDIX G INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS range or you don’t want a plastic bag, or you take some clothes back for them to recycle or reuse, you get like points and then you can put those points to, like, buy more stuff with them or get discount. What do you think of that idea?

Participant 2 I think it’s good. But I think it would be good from brands that are that do kind of engaging sustainable practices. I’m not being funny. I don’t rate it from brands like H&M who literally like the cost of their clothes, you know that using like, inappropriate practices like slave labour. It’s like along the lines or like something unethical is going on along there, its like okay you’re recycling clothes. But is it not just going back into their same bad factories? And being made unethically again? Like that’s what my worry would be there, I don’t know for sure? But that would be my worry. And then H&Ms prices arent changing? Specially since I started sewing clothes, I’ve noticed this. I think what’s really made me catch on to like ethical clothing. Obviously, I started sewing. I bought four fabrics. 120 pound. It’s so expensive. Fabric is so expensive. And you need like at least 2.5 yards to make like trousers. And that is so expensive. And that’s just for the fabric. Then when you factor in the hours spent making it? I’m starting to wonder, okay. I’m looking at the cost of this item should be at the very least 50 pound. Right. But then brands are selling it for two pound.

Heather Spenceley Yeah.

Participant 2 It’s just not adding up.

Heather Spenceley Yeah. Yeah. But then if you think about how much they probably get their fabrics for, though, because there’ll be buying so much of it. But yeah, I completely get what your’re saying. So you think that sort of scheme looks suspicious from H&M? Participant 2 Yeah, I just think it’s for show.

Heather Spenceley Okay, and what about applying that scheme to a luxury fashion brand, so instead of like getting discounts, you’d get like, you build up your points, and maybe you’d get like, some sort of like luxury experience or access to something new exlclusive from the brand. The more sustainable points you got, the better the ‘prize’ would be. What would you think of that?

Participant 2 Why he wouldn’t put me off or like. But I thought like their target market, because you know, like luxury brands and target market is not actually us, the young people trying to try to force this appearance on Instagram. We’re like the people that they don’t want wearing their clothes in my opinion. They want like, you know, the wealthier people wearing the clothes and like the ancillary stuff like that, like that deal pump market. I just feel like they wouldn’t do that because it cheapens it to them because now the wealthy like that coffee, but they want like what’s unattainable and stuff like that? I just feel like it cheapens it to them, so they wouldn’t do it. Because then they will fall out of that luxury market kind of end up selling to like middle class consumers. I think it would

APPENDICES APPENDIX G INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS be a great idea and I’d definitely take advantage of it, but I just wonder if it might take the luxury away from it?

Heather Spenceley Yeah.

Participant 2 that’s the same thing of was it? Could have been Dolce Gabbana or someone who like now reselling their stuff or ever on that website.

Heather Spenceley Oh, yeah, the real real or vestiare?

Participant 2 Just like they’ve only just agreed through now and like basically like given in years like they were trying to sue people reselling all this stuff because they don’t want it.

Heather Spenceley I think it was Chanel. Yeah, it was Chanel. Or a similar thing happened with them.

Participant 2 That’s why I just think that that’s they don’t want it. They showed us for years and years. They don’t want it.

Heather Spenceley They don’t want what?

Participant 2 Sustainability. Well, maybe 2021 is a different time. Might be sustainability...maybe we’ll push that forward.

Heather Spenceley Yeah, maybe 2021 will bring new patterns!

Participant 2 I hope so!

Heather Spenceley Well thank you so much for taking part in this interview I really appreciate it and it’s been really interesting to hear your opinion!

Participant 2 No worries! Bye Heather Spenceley Bye!

PARTICIPANT 3

APPENDICES APPENDIX G INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS

Heather Spenceley Do you purchase luxury fashion?

Participant 3 Yes, I do.

Heather Spenceley How often would, you say?

Participant 3 A few times a year, so not too regular but as treats to myself or gifts for others!

Heather Spenceley Okay. And do you also buy from more affordable buttons?

Participant 3 I do Heather Spenceley What sort of brands would you class as affordable?

Participant 3 I buy brands, I buy things from like, pretty little thing misguided, like, you know your fast fashion brands. But I try to stay away from that because I feel like, when I was doing your survey. I was like, thinking about it. And I was like, even if you were to buy a luxury brand, you don’t actually know if they’re making it themselves like susainably and stuff.

Heather Spenceley Do you mind me asking whether you thought that luxury was more or less sustainable?

Participant 3 Not at all. I said both because I feel like you’re the things that you’re paying for are like, the end quality controls, you know, like when they do the stitching on like, the bags and stuff or like, small things that they do on the embroidery of say, your jeans, but other than that it’s made in the same factories and stuff unless they can prove otherwise.

Heather Spenceley Yeah, unless they provide that information you don’t know. What would you say draws you to buy luxury fashion products?

Participant 3 I think it’s probably society. Like, if there wasn’t a label on it, you wouldn’t be like, Oh my gosh, wow.

Heather Spenceley

APPENDICES APPENDIX G INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS Yeah, Participant 3 I can live without it. Like when you see things on pretty little thing. Oh, I can live without it. But when you see shoes like. I’m a big like, I get like swallowed into the shoe kind of like trainer.

Heather Spenceley What like designer trainers?

Participant 3 Yes, like the Dior trainers. There’s nothing special about them. But because people are Oh my god.

Cool. It made you want to buy them. And now I have them.

Heather Spenceley Ohhh yeah. I’ve seen them advertised.

And do you know what luxury rental is?

Participant 3 I think it’s when you can rent luxury items. Something you want and then like give it back?

Heather Spenceley Yeah, it’s just basically renting luxury products for a limited amount of time. And then like you give it back at the end or you can sometimes decide to buy it to keep. Yeah. What’s your opinion on it?

Participant 3 So I was talking to my my cousin’s about this I was like, would you rather pay for something one time, but either way when you’re renting or buying, you’re never gonna wear it again. So I feel like if you were going to buy it normally and not rent and you knew we’re only going to wear it once what’s the point in renting because it’s just a waste of money either way. I mean, it would be different if you were using it for like a high fashion event or like you know like something like a once in a lifetime but on the regular like your regular standard days if you’re going for drinks or something and you rented a bag. I don’t see the point of that because like even if you were to buy the bag and you were only going to wear it once it’s still a waste of your money. It depends like what spectrum you’re looking at it on like them one off kind of like weddings, big events then yeah, but other than that I don’t think I’d use it.

Heather Spenceley Yeah, okay. Have you heard of conscious consumption or sustainable consumption?

Participant 3 No. Heather Spenceley It’s basically being conscious about what you’re buying. And like so looking into like the background of the item or just being like just thinking about how much you’re going to use it and wear it.

APPENDICES APPENDIX G INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS Participant 3 Is this only applicable to fashion in terms of materials or does fashion include like, your luxury beauty items as well?

Heather Spenceley Yeah just fashion in this case but what are you thinking?

Participant 3 Because I know I do that with skincare products. I feel like I think about it if I’m going to buy something from pretty, you know, like a fast fashion brand. Do I actually need it? Like, in terms of a really good example is remember when pretty little thing did a penny sale?

Heather Spenceley Oh yeah, Participant 3 I didn’t purchase anything. So I was like, in the grand scheme, they given out codes for like two pence, but they’re not even going to pay the people properly that the materials from so in that sense I feel like I do have a conscious, I consciously purchase stuff. I would presume, I try not to purchase anything unecessarily to be honest anyway.

Heather Spenceley Yeah, so that kind of applies. So you’d say you just purchase less rather than like looking into the background of it you just purchase less things?

Participant 3 Yeah, yeah. Yeah, Heather Spenceley So, do you think luxury brands could help you to improve or do that a bit more to like shop more consciously or sustainably?

Participant 3 Can you repeat the question, please?

Heather Spenceley Yeah. Do you think theres any way luxury brands could help you improve this or shop more sustainably?

Participant 3 No, I think it’s up to us to make that choice.

Heather Spenceley Oh okay so you think it’s up to the consumer?

Participant 3

APPENDICES APPENDIX G INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS Yeah, I feel like as a consumer, you have to do it all yourself. Because even if they’re telling you it’s sustainable, we don’t actually know how much of that is sustainable in terms of like the percentages, they could just say like, Oh, 60% of it. As long as it’s 60% and below is like unsustainable, then it’s fine. So we can label it as sustainable. But I think it’s a consumer thing, because a lot of luxury brands also have that ability to just be able to say, Oh, this is what it is. Just believe us, and people will just buy it because of the label or the brand.

Heather Spenceley Yeah for the label, I get what you mean. Yeah, yeah. Okay. And if a luxury fashion product was labeled as sustainable, what impact would it have on your decision to purchase? Would it be positive, negative, neutral?

Participant 3 I think would be positive. Like being able to see that it’s labeled with evidence that like, it’s sourced properly. It’s not like made out of slave labor or something, you’d be more inclined to be like, Oh, you know what, I think about that a little bit more. Me personally. But would I buy? It depends on the price. Like I feel like even some things...

Heather Spenceley Oh you’ve dropped out, one minute...

Participant 3 Things that are labeled as luxury items. I feel like even if they had a sustainable brand on it, it will still depend on the price. Because I feel like some people just buy things at an extraordinary price, because it’s labeled as luxury. But you don’t need to do that. Because you know, when your thing when you were talking in the survey, when you asked if we’d buy off Depop? You’re more inclined to buy things off of D pop, because you know, you already know that the the worth and the value of the luxury item isn’t as great as the marketing.

Heather Spenceley Yeah, okay.

I’ve only got two more questions. Okay. If a product was labeled as recycled, what impact would that have? So just the last question but if it was labelled recycled?

Participant 3 I’d think about the quality more, like, I know, like sustainability, but if it’s recycled, is it going to fall apart? Because it’s recycled? So yeah. Sounds pretty rough.

Heather Spenceley Yeah, okay, what do you think about an incentive scheme? Where you earn points through like sustainable acts. So say, you returned an item. So you basically could like earn points for doing sustainable things. So if that brand had like a conscious range you bought from that range, and you get like points or, if you didn’t want a plastic bag, then you’d get like a point. That kind of thing.

What do you think of that?

Participant 3

APPENDICES APPENDIX G INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS I think it’s a really good idea. I feel like in terms of consumers, you’re more inclined to do something when you’re rewarded. And like the opportunity cost is higher when you’re when you have an incentive to buy something as well, because then like, say, if your points equated to something at the end, people that are on my gosh, I’m going to buy sustainable things all the time, so that I can get like One Free item, I feel like it’d be a really good idea.

Heather Spenceley What about if that was applied to a luxury brand?

Participant 3 I feel like it would be a good idea. But in terms of like luxury brands, they don’t offer those kinds of like point schemes because it lowers the kind of value because then you just become a regular consumer. Like, I thought, like the whole point of a luxury brand is because it’s exclusive. It’s exclusive to a certain type of hierarchy and like, class in a society. So if you kind of say to people like, oh, here’s a point system, it’s unlikely for that brand to remain a luxury item, because then people think that oh, well, then I can get something for free from this brand. Because I feel like you have to be able to buy things constantly from a luxury brand.

Heather Spenceley Yeah, that makes sense. What about if the rewards you got were more luxury? So like a luxury experience or exclusive access to something? I think that would be a far better idea because it still keeps the brand exclusive but like, its a little bit like mysterious and like it would just make you think a little bit more about it. Like I think people are built with the mindset that like, you should get something in return. So I do love the idea of an experience or something exclusive, but I just don’t think I shop there like, often enough to get enough points.

Yeah. Oh, yeah. Well, that’s all my questions. Thank you!

Participant 3 No problem! Bye.

APPENDICES APPENDIX G INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS Heather Spenceley Bye!

PARTICIPANT 4 Heather Spenceley Do you buy luxury fashion?

Participant 4 Yeah.

Heather Spenceley How often would you say?

Participant 4 Well it’s interesting because I bought way more before COVID and lockdown.

Heather Spenceley So you stopped buying as much because of lockdown?

Participant 4 Yeah. Because like with luxury fashion, I don’t like spending a lot of money on an item if it’s online if I can’t try it on.

Heather Spenceley Oh right, that’s interesting to know!

Participant 4 Because I’ve bought things before and I thought oh that’ll look nice and then it comes and I end up sending it back. If I’m spending a lot of money on something I’d rather try it on in a shop.

Heather Spenceley Yeah.

Participant 4 But then but then if it’s alright if you already know brand, if you already know a brand I can then go and order something online because I know the sizing because there’s different sizing isnt there.

Heather Spenceley Yeah, so different between brands you mean? Yeah. What sort of items would you buy?

Participant 4 Designer jeans, I don’t really bother with them, I just buy standard jeans. I mostly buy t-shirts, and jumpers, not hoodies but like jumpers.

Heather Spenceley Like sweaters? Things that would maybe have a noticeable logo?

APPENDICES APPENDIX G INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS Participant 4 Yeah. I’ve got Well, I bought a Moncler jumper just after Christmas but I’ve not actually worn it. So just like a jumper with a logo that goes across there [the front]. Shoes definitely shoes are probably the main thing I spend a lot of money on.

Heather Spenceley Oh really? Trainers, or formal shoes?

Participant 4 Trainers normally, yeah.

Heather Spenceley I see, and what would you say draws you to buy luxury fashion?

Participant 4 I just think they look nice. Yeah.

Heather Spenceley So style?

Participant 4 Yeah, style and I just buy it for the brands I guess, haha.

Heather Spenceley Yeah, no definitely. That’s what luxury is about isnt it!

Participant 4 I know It’s because you buy it because the brand and it’s just like oh it’s just a brand but. You like the brand.

Heather Spenceley Yeah. So why wouldn’t you buy from it?

Participant 4 Yeah.

Heather Spenceley So that’s like the main two reasons style and brand.

Participant 4 Yeah.

Heather Spenceley Yeah, okay. Do you know what luxury fashion rental is? I can explain if not, don’t worry.

Participant 4 No, I think I could guess from the name but you go.

APPENDICES APPENDIX G INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS Heather Spenceley Yeah. So basically, it’s like, you go to a brand. And tyou just rent a product from them basically, you could have it for like three months. And then sometimes within the three months, you can buy it. Or you can just give it back and then like get another item off them. And some places do like a subscription. So you get like a few different items for that month. And then get some different ones the next month.

Participant 4 Yeah.

Heather Spenceley So like, would you ever use that for anything?

Participant 4 Yeah.

Heather Spenceley Would you? You think that’s a good idea?

Participant 4 If I was, I’d use for example, say, you’re going somewhere as a one off, you need something that you’re not going to wear it again.

Heather Spenceley So what sort of things would you get from it?

Participant 4 Like say, oh, designer suit, for example? And I was going to a wedding. I don’t have a good suit, or shirt.

Heather Spenceley Especially at weddings and stuff. You’re going to get a lot of pictures. So you probably not going to want to keep wearing the same one. I dont know if its the same for men but..

Participant 4 Yeah, it’s not as much of a prioity I’d say but I’d still want, if I was going to a wedding. I’d still want a nice suit. Ideally. Yeah. So if you could do that, you could do that. If you didn’t have the money to buy one.

Heather Spenceley Yeah.

Participant 4 You could use that for a cheaper option than just buy one, leave it sat there and just never wear it again.

APPENDICES APPENDIX G INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS Heather Spenceley Yeah, exactly. Do you know what sustainable or conscious consumption means in terms of like buying things? [Participant 1 shakes head] I can explain. So basically, it’s just like considering more about what you’re buying. So, if you getting an item, it’s looking at the materials maybe or it could be like just how many times you’re going to wear it and like, what, what else is going to go within your wardrobe?

Participant 4 Yeah, yeah. I mean, personally I wouldn’t go out of our way to buy something that an animal has been killed to make. If you know, like some people use it as a marketing point Oh, this is cow leather or whatever? I wouldn’t want that, but if I got something I and I didn’t realise, I wouldnt not wear it because of that.

Heather Spenceley Yeah, okay. So would you say you like, so you wouldn’t say you shop consciously it’s more of an impulse buy?

Participant 4 Yeah. If it looks nice and I like it, I’d buy it!

Heather Spenceley Yeah. And do you think that luxury brands could like help you consider those things more? When you’re purchasing things.

Participant 4 Yeah, maybe. I think if you are spending a lot of money on an item. It’s good to have all the information about how it was made with it. So like, like, for example, I did buy a Givenchy top for about £400. But, I didn’t know anything about it. So with Creed, for example, you know the aftershave? Yeah, you get it you get it a little card that tells you about how it was made.

Heather Spenceley Yeah I know what you mean, I’ve got a Stella McCartney purse that’s got an authenticity card.

Participant 4 Yeah, and it says like different bits of information about the product but with a Tshirt and you don’t really get any of that really? So yeah, I think if they did that, it’s interesting and makes it feel more special and you sort of know what you’re getting for your money then too.

Heather Spenceley Yeah. And so would you say it’s more up to the brands to help people shop consciously or is it up to us as shoppers?

Participant 4 A bit of both? Yeah, I think because so because sometimes the brand might not actually want you to know certain things. And then you could do should go and look into it. Because obviously, something they are doing might not be environmentally friendly or whatever. So if you want to know something like that the shopper should go and check that themselves probably because it’s

APPENDICES APPENDIX G INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS not something that they’re not going to just tell someone they aren’t environmentally friendly.

They’re not going to post that everywhere are they.

Heather Spenceley Yeah. And so what about if a product was labeled as sustainable? What impact would that have on your buying? Would it be positive or negative or...?

Participant 4 Yeah, probably positive? Because I think it’s, it’s a good thing if something’s sustainable. Like, yeah, there’s like a feel good aspect. Yeah. You buying that had a good impact on the planet.

Heather Spenceley Yeah. Yeah.

And what about them? Same question, really. But what if it was recycled?

Participant 4 As if it was recycled? And it’s still look nice. It still looks the same quality? It wouldn’t bother me.

Personally, I can understand some people it would. But me personally, I wouldn’t really be too fussed.

Heather Spenceley Yeah, it wouldn’t make a difference. Okay. This is the lastquestion. So what do you think about if a brand did like an incentive scheme for you to do more like conscious or sustainable things, so they’ll give you like points towards their brand. So if you do something that you don’t want a plastic bag, or you buy from their conscious range. So if you buy from that range, then you get points. So H&M are currently offering this scheme and you can get a discount but do you think if a luxury brand did that, you might use it? But instead of getting a discount, you’d get like an experience like a luxury experience rather than a discount?

Participant 4 Yeah. Because Because the like people I know there’s a handbag I think it would be good. It would be a good selling point for it might be a good selling, selling point for a luxury brand a handbag, I can’t remember what it’s called but I think selfridges might have them I might be wrong. I was told by someone who did it and you pay like 20 grand for a bag and they take you up these steps, you dont know what colour you’re gonna get, you don’t know what it’s gonna look like. But that’s it, you’ve got it. And you pay before you get it.

Heather Spenceley Yeah. You don’t know what you’re getting. I think that sounds like a Birkin bag, Hermes do a similar thing anyway with Birkin bags.

Participant 4 So they pay for the experience and the mystery. Yeah. So I think definitely a luxury experience as a prize rather than a actual product is more exciting so yeah, I think it would be a good idea and I’d take notice of it and use it.

APPENDICES APPENDIX G INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS Heather Spenceley So you like that idea? Great. Well, that’s the last question. That’s it. Yeah, thank you so much for doing this!

Participant 4 Yeah, no worries it was interesting!

Heather Spenceley Aw, good thanks again, bye!

PARTICIPANT 5 Participant 4 Bye!

Heather Spenceley How often do you purchase luxury fashion?

Participant 5 Designer brands? Like Gucci?

Heather Spenceley Yeah.

Participant 5 It’s more of a treat. So like, once a month.

Heather Spenceley Would you say you also buy more from our affordable brands?

Participant 5 Yeah! But then again, if I buy a luxury treat, I won’t buy like high street fashion. Because that would be a big spend. So I’d have to cut out the cheaper buys for that month.

Heather Spenceley Okay. I get you. And what draws you to buy luxury fashion items?

Participant 5 Like big things, not just like a top. So like something that would make your outfit like belt, shoes, a bag, not just a T shirt or pants because that’s like what I’d get from PLT. So, an accessory. Yeah, rather a T shirt.

Heather Spenceley And what do you think the reason is that you’d rather get it from a luxury brand rather than a more affordable brand?

APPENDICES APPENDIX G INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS Participant 5 Because it’s got the name and the logo.

Heather Spenceley Yeah, okay so would you say that’s your main reason?

Participant 5 Yeah, definitely. I wouldn’t spend that much on something unbranded or less known Heather Spenceley And do you know what luxury fashion rental is?

Participant 5 What like renting a Gucci bag. But it’s not yours.

Oh so would you pay monthly like on Klarna?

Heather Spenceley Yeah, well, kind of, so you could get it for like three months and you could give it back? Or like, say you wanted it for event or something like that?

Participant 5 I think It’s a bit pointless if you can’t afford it you shouldn’t buy it.

Heather Spenceley Yeah. Okay. And what if it was like the only way to act as like a certain items or say like, Gucci brought out a certain collection that was only for rental?

Participant 5 Well it depends what it was an how much I liked it, but probably not to be honest. Yeah.

Heather Spenceley And do you know what sustainable consumption means?

Participant 5 No Heather Spenceley Okay so it’s basically like thinking a bit more before you buy something. So like, how many times you’re gonna wear it? Or like, what the materials like? what it’s made out of? Would you say you do that? [participant 5 nods] Participant 5 Oh yeah definitely Heather Spenceley Yeah, like would you would you say you do that every time you buy something?

APPENDICES APPENDIX G INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS Participant 5 Yeah. I do that every time I buy something Especially at the moment all my buys at the moment have been so bad, like seethrough.

Heather Spenceley Yeah, really?

Participant 5 Yeah for pretty little thing it has. I got an order from them the other day and it was all seethrough and bad quality. And that makes you want to buy expensive stuff doesn’t it but then its the decision between quality or quanity of stuff, but definitely when the quality is bad I want to shop for luxury more. Cheap stuff is so hit and miss.

Heather Spenceley Do you think there is any way that luxury brands could help people do that a bit more so like, do you think it’s up to the brand to make people shop like more sustainably or do you think it’s up to like the people shopping? ‘ Participant 5 Well I think the brands because they could advertise how spending a bit more but it will last longer and you’ll love the quality. But then I guess all brands do try and do that, so it’s hard to know who to believe. But pretty little thing does just copy the copy big brands.

Heather Spenceley If a luxury fashion product was labeled as sustainable, what impact would it have on your decision to purchase?

Participant 5 Sustainable? What like good quality?

Heather Spenceley What would you take from the word sustainable?

Participant 5 I don’t think it would have an impact. Like does it mean like they’ve not killed animals? Or eco friendly?

Heather Spenceley Yeah, it’s sort of just a word that’s used to cover a lot of different things but it normally means it’s been made of renewable materials.

Participant 5 Oh right yeah, it wouldn’t really have an impact, if I liked it I’d still buy it regardless.

Heather Spenceley What about if it said recycled?

APPENDICES APPENDIX G INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS Participant 5 Yeah, same answer really. I wouldn’t really be bothered.

Heather Spenceley Okay.

Participant 5 Well maybe with like cutlery and stuff because like my coffee cups and everything I’ve got for work I try and get bamboo. But I dunno, clothes I just wouldn’t think about that.

Heather Spenceley Okay, why do you think that is?

Participant 5 I think it’s just probably because I like to buy the latest trends and I like to buy new outfits a lot, but I also really look after the clothes I buy like it’s not like I just throw them away.

Heather Spenceley Okay, yeah I get you. So what would you think about a scheme where you earn points for doing like more sustainable things. So say you said you didn’t want like a plastic bag, or like, donating your old clothes. Or like, say if the brand had like a recycled range, or whatever you bought from that range, instead of like the normal range, you’d get points. And then they’d like add up to some sort of luxury experience. Basically like prizes for doing sustainable acts.

Participant 5 Like a bonus sort of thing? Yeah. I’d be interested in something like that. Because it makes you feel good at the same time you’re being rewarded for it. Yeah. It’s like bonuses at work and stuff like that, isn’t it? It’s like you’re actually getting something and it would make me think more about what I was buying.

Heather Spenceley Okay great thank you. That was my last question! Thanks so much for doing this.

Participant 5 Aw no problem, it’s got me thinking a little bit! See you later!

Heather Spenceley Thank you, bye!

APPENDICES APPENDIX H ETHICS APPROVAL

APPENDICES APPENDIX H ETHICS APPROVAL

APPENDICES APPENDIX I RESEARCH TABLE Topic Title: The value of sustainability in luxury fashion: A Generation Z focus.

Research Aim: To analyse Gene impact the luxury fashion mark

Research Objective

Research Questions

Research Sources (identify auth titles and chapters, journal ar ti business sources, theories)

1. To investigate the historical role and purpose of the luxury fashion sector.

What is the role and purpose of the luxury fashion sector?

Luxury fashion authors: Kapferer, & bastien – break th marketing to build luxury bran

What consumer needs does the luxury fashion market satisfy?

Kapferer – how luxury brands but remain rare

Veblen – the theory of the leis

Dubois - Fulfilling social need luxury consumption

Han et al - ‘Signaling status w goods: the role of brand prom Belleza and colleagues

2. To analyse the relationship luxury fashion brands currently have with sustainability.

How is sustainability used/practiced by luxury fashion brands?

Is sustainable luxury fashion possible?

Can luxury brands use sustainability to innovate?

Authors: Gardetti – sustainab and craftmanship, green fash sustainable management of lu sustainability redefining luxury

Clarke, Fletcher, Vanessa Fri Businesses: FTI

Theories: 3 pillars of sustaina Carrolls CSR pyramid, Kotler Armstrong’s 5 stage consume making process

The fashion sustainability rep

APPENDICES APPENDIX I RESEARCH TABLE

eration Z's attitudes and perceptions toward sustainable consumption and how these ket.

hors, books icles,

he rules of nds

s can grow

sure class

ds through

with luxury minence

ble luxury hion, uxury, y,

iedman,

ability, r and er decision-

port

Key themes and conclusions from the reading

• Conspicuous consumption (spending money to represent wealth) • The democratisation of luxury • Radical luxury (Selfridges campaign) • Social fulfilment through luxury consumption • The desire to conform or to differentiate (dubois) • The handicap principle (Zahavi, 1975) • The Lipstick effect

Theories: Maslow’s hierarchy of needs, trickle-down theory (blummer, Simmel) • The impact of ethical fashion on consumer purchase behaviour • the possibility of sustainable luxury fashion • slow fashion • sustaining brand equity (kapferer) • circular fashion economy & ethical supply chains?

Proposal for Primary Research based on Literature Review findings?

(Methodology) What consumer needs does the luxury fashion market satisfy?

APPENDICES APPENDIX I RESEARCH TABLE

3.To identify what influences Gen Z consumers when purchasing luxury fashion.

How do gen z perceive and use luxury?

How highly do Gen Z prioritise sustainability when shopping for luxury fashion items?

Vigneron and johnson: m values for luxury purchas lit review)

Kasser and colleagues, in extrinsic values

How do they view second-hand luxury?

Kotler and Armstrong’s 5 consumer decision-makin

What are their demands/approach to buying luxury fashion items?

Fromm & Read 2018 - M Gen Z

Do consumers actions embody their values?

Do Gen Z place a higher expectation on luxury brands to be sustainable than they do on fast fashion brands?

motivation and ses table (e.g.

ntrinsic &

5 stage ng process

Marketing to

APPENDICES APPENDIX I RESEARCH TABLE

• • • •

Value-driven purchasing Value-action gap The extended self? Belk Gen Z

How do gen z/perceive and use luxury?

Do Gen Z place a higher expectation on luxury brands to be sustainable than they do on fast fashion brands?