Austin Monthly November/December 2024

Page 1


Evan LeRoy worksthe pit at

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48

Best New Restaurants 2024 New-school barbecue,vegan delights, Southeast Asiantreasures, andItaliancomfort spotstop this year’s stellarlist.

64 What’s the Buzz?

As singlesgravitate back to meeting in real life, Austin-based Bumble looksto expand beyond life as adatingapp.

Editor’s Letter 14

Scout

Revive andthriveusing high-techwellnesstools 21

Shop forthe holidays with ourlocal gift guide 22

Whymotelsare making acomebackinTexas 24

Feast

Amanda Rockmanbrings thedough to East Austin 29

Restaurant noisehas gotten outofcontrol at localhot spots. Here’s howto fixit 30

Inside theincredible, edible BoxofRocks dessert 32

Beat

RallyAustin’smission to preserve thecapital city’s unique spirit 37 Ourlistofthe best,worst, andweirdestnewsof2024 40

Jukeboxesare part of Austin’s quirky musicidentity 42

WeirdHistory 74

PhotoDirector:

An invitation to in the HILLS. Holiday

Experiencethe enchantmentofthe season at Omni Barton Creek Resort &Spa forthe Annual Holidayinthe Hills celebration. Embraced by the breathtaking Texas Hill Country,our resort transforms into awinterwonderland.

From the charm of breakfast withSanta and Mrs. Claus, to enchanting journeys along our illuminatedtrail of lights, followedbya mesmerizing snowshowonLady Bird Lawn, winterwonder awaits at every turn. Join us foran unforgettable celebration,brimming with joyous moments during your holidayescape.

STATEMENTOFOWNERSHIP

StatementofOwnership,managementand circulation (requiredby39U.S.C.3685).1.AustinMonthly 2. Publication No.USPS001-163 3. Oct1,24. 4Bi-Monthly, 5. No.of issues publishedannually. 6, 6. Annual subscription price $14.95;7.POBox 2171,San Antonio, TX 78297-2171 9. Namesand addressesofPublisher andEditors are: Publisher, Mark Medici,P.O.Box 2171,San Antonio, Texas 78297-2171.Editor, Madeline Hollern, P.O. Box2171, San Antonio, Texas78297-2171. Managing Editor,Bryan C. Parker,P.O.Box 2171 SanAntonio,TX78297-2171. 10 Owner: Hearst Newspapers,LLC,mailing address: 300 West 57th Street,New York,NY10019.Members of Hearst Newspapers,LLC are: Hearst Communications,Inc (ManagingMember),and NewspaperHolding,Inc., mailing address: 300West57thStreet, NewYork, NY 1001911. See Item 10 above. 15.A.Total no.copiesprinted (Net Press Run).Average no.copieseachissue during preceding12 months,17,892. Actual no.copiesofsingleissue published nearest to filingdate17,781. B. Legitimate Paid and/or RequestedDistribution. 1. Outside-County Subscriptions. Averageno. copies each issueduringpreceding 12 months 6,235. Actual no.copiesofsingleissue publishednearest to filingdate, 6,045. 3. Salesthrough dealersand carriers, street vendorsand countersales,and otheroutside USPS Averageno. of copies each issueduringpreceding 12 months,1,848.Actualno. copies of single issuepublished nearest to filingdate, 1,804. C. TotalPaidand/orRequested Circulation. Averageno. copies each issueduringpreceding 12 months,8,083.Actualno. copies of single issue publishednearest to filingdate7,849.D.Nonrequested Distribution.1.Outside County,Average no.copieseach issueduringpreceding 12 months,3,245.Actualno. copies of single issuepublished nearesttofiling date,3,231.4 Outsidethe Mail,Average no.copieseachissue during preceding12months, 3,696. Actual no.copiesofsingle issuepublished nearesttofiling date,4,105.E.Total NonrequestedDistribution. Averageno. copies each issue during preceding12months, 6,941. Actual no.copiesof single issuepublished nearesttofiling date,7,336.F.Total Distribution.Average no.copieseachissue during preceding12months, 15,024.Actualno. copies of single issuepublished nearesttofiling date 15,185.G.Copiesnot Distributed. Averageno. copies each issueduringpreceding 12 months,2,868.Actualno. copies each issuepublished nearest to filingdate, 2,596. H. TotalAverage no.copies each issueduringpreceding 12 months,17,892. Actual no copies of single issuepublished nearesttofiling date,17,781. I. PercentPaidand/orRequestedCirculation.Average no copies each issueduringpreceding 12 months 54%. Actual no.copiesofsingleissue publishednearest to filingdate 52%. 17.Icertify that thestatementsmadebymeabove are correctand complete.MarkMedici, Publisher.

November/December2024|Vol.32|No. 6

General Manager RandiStevenson

Editor-in-Chief Madeline Hollern

EDITORIAL

Executive Editor BryanC.Parker

Contributing Writers

KatieCanales,DarcieDuttweiler, AnthonyHead, Hamilton Jones, AliKhan, Rose McMackin,ChadSwiatecki

ART

Contributing ArtDirectors

Adrián Alvarez, Amanda Croy,MaraEsquivel

Contributing PhotoDirector Cory Rivademar

Contributing Photographer Steven Visneau

Contributing Illustrators

Will Bryant,Antoine Doré, StephanieElizabeth, Anna Kim

DIGITAL

DigitalManager AbigailStewart

ADVERTISING

ChiefRevenue Officer Kate Weber

Senior MarketingDirector Sara Bryant

Account Director Dana Horner

Senior Account Executives Teddy Ivanova, Jenn Tully

Customer Success Specialist KielyWhelan

EVENTS

Events Director Lauren Sposetta

CIRCULATION

Audience DevelopmentDirector TomNork

CONTACTUS

PO Box217,San Antonio, TX 78297-2127,512-263-9133

Advertisinginquiries:advertising@austinmonthly.com

Letterstothe Editor:info@austinmonthly.com

Subscriptions, Renewals,and AddressChanges:Austin Monthly, PO Box217,San Antonio, TX 78297-2127 512-387-6234,subscriptions@austinmonthly.com or online at austinmonthly.com/subscribe.

WEBSITEAND SOCIAL MEDIA austinmonthly.com

2020, 2021, 2022

FIRSTPLACE: BESTDENTIST

2018, 2020, 2022,2023

FIRST PLACE: BESTCOSMETIC DENTISTRY

Krista DeCoursin, DDS Cosmetic &General Dentist
Mark Sweeny, DDS Founder Cosmetic &General Dentist
Kirsten Thouvenot, DDS Cosmetic &General Dentist

Editor’sLetter Yes,

ASIPULLEDintoadustyparkinglotofanewunder-theradarspotinfarEastAustin,Iwasn’tsurewhattoexpect.I recognized theglowing marquees in frontofpopular touristhangout Sign Bar, butittookmea second to find my destinationnextdoor—atucked-away spacefeaturing garage-style doorsand lightbluepatio stools.The large wraparoundbarintheopen-airconceptsummonedpatrons withitsbrightlycoloreddrinks,butthedecorationsofgiant elephantsandauthenticartifactscluedmeinthatthiswas more than just abreezylounge. Each dish that Lao’dBar ownerBob Somsithpresented to thetable provided an explosionofflavors:Thaichile-toppedceviche escolar served in afresh coconut, pork baobunswithLao seasoning, caramel fish saucefried chickenwings.Endingmy dinner with ajasmine rice lageroverice—the traditional waytodrinkabeerinLaos—Irealizedthishadbeenoneof thebestmealsI’dhadinalongtime.

It wasn’t just thefoodthatendearedmetoLao’d Bar. In thelastcoupleofyears,the localhospitality scenehas toooftenfavoredflashoversubstance.Sure,newspotshad cocktailsthatcouldbelitonfireorrobotwaitersordisco bathrooms, butthese flairs felt like panderingtothe eye-candydemandsofsocialmedia.Thankfully,thisyear, localeateriesareshiftingtheirfocusbacktoquality.Inour coverfeature,“Best NewRestaurants 2024”(page 48), we highlightmorethanadozennewspotsacrossAustin,from aconcept inspired by ’80s East Coastpizzerias anda lowkeytacospeakeasy to an East Side hotspotboasting “WeirdoItalian”and adiminutiveeateryfeaturing plantbasedfinedining

Speakingoflocalchanges,homegrownbrandBumble hasbeenshaking things up lately.Since bursting on the scenea decade ago, thedatingapp pivotedawayfromits signature“womenmakethefirstmove”ethosandweathered aCEOchange,anadcampaigncontroversy,apublicoffering,andever-shiftingbehaviorswithinmoderndating.As theapp celebrates itsmilestone 10-yearanniversary in December,writerRoseMcMackinexaminesitssuccesses andstruggles in “What’sthe Buzz?” (page64).Inthese pages, we also featurea curatedgiftguide,a newurban bakeryservingupmemorablepastries,andaneye-catching dessertthatwilldazzleyourin-townguestsovertheholidays. As youdig into thenew issue, we hope yousavor every morsel—andplanyournextculinaryadventure.

@madelinehollern

Chef!

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OVER 130 STORES AND RESTAURANTS, WITH MANY EXCLUSIVE TO AUSTIN.

UNDERSTANDING FERTILITY TESTING

When acouple finds themselves unable toget pregnant on theirown, theygenerally go through aflood of emotions –anger,frustration, and sadness.

They arealso overwhelmed by the next step: fertilitycare. More often than not, patients don’t anticipate thattheywill needfertility treatments to build theirfamilies.Education is the best waytoease a couple’s confusion about theirfuturefertilityand family-building journey

Male FactorInfertility and Testing

It’s acommon misconception thatinfertilityisa woman’s issue. That’s notthe case, and sciencetells us that40% to 50% of infertility cases arerelatedtomale-factor infertility(MFI). And20% to 30% of the time, it’sacombination of both female and male infertility factors.

When schedulingyour initial consultation, include your partnerso your specialistcan discuss fertilitytestingfor both of you. Having a clearunderstanding of eachperson’s reproductivehealthisimportant in reachingyour pregnancy goals.

Testingfor MFIcan giveaclearpictureofmale reproductive health, including sperm count, quality, andmotility.Itincludes aurinetest, semen analysis,blood tests, and in rare cases an ultrasound to detect blockages.

Female Infertility Testing

Ageisthe numberone factoroffemale reproductivehealth, as the quantity and quality of eggsdiminishwith age.

Butfertility testingfor women goes beyond ageand ovarian reserve to also look at the structureofthe female reproductivesystem. This is important because regardless of who holds the diagnosis,it’sthe female partnerwho will needtoundergo the majority of the physical treatments and carry the pregnancy.

Fertility testingfor women includes various tests and exams—some non-invasive and othersslightly invasive—that can giveaclearer pictureofa woman’s reproductivehealth, including blood tests to detect hormone levels and ultrasounds to determine ovarian reserve. More invasive procedures likeHysterosalpingography(HSG) can determine if thereisscarring or blockage in the fallopian tubes, which can impede fertilization of an egg and/or implantationofa fertilized egg, also known as an embryo

If youhaveconcernsabout your fertility and want to exploreyour familybuildingoptions or to schedule apatient consultation, please visithttps://www. aspirefertility.com/austin-texas or call us at 512-479-7979.

Body Talk

Atfirstblush,MATTRBIOwellnessClublookslike somethingout of asci-fi movie. Butdespite itsfuturistic aesthetic, thecompany hasa very simple mission: optimize your health on acellularlevel Thenew SouthwestAustincenterfeatures17 non-invasivemodalitiesaimedatbiohacking,from hyperbaricoxygentherapychambersthatexpedite woundhealingtoalymphaticdrainingsuitdesigned to reduce swelling anda CVAC cellular machine that mimics fitnesstrainingathighelevations. Feelingalittlerundownduringtheholidayseason?

Sharpenmentalclaritywiththecraniallighthelmet (pictured),whichusestargetedred-lighttherapyto improvefocusandevenalleviatemigraines.“There’s aresurgenceofpeoplewakingupand realizing traditionalmedicineisgreat andhas itsspace,but alotofpeoplearetryingtogettothatrootcauseof theirissues,”saysclinic managerAudreyHamker. “Thisisusingyourbody’sownbiologytohealitself.” MATTRBIOwellness Club features membership packagesaswellasalacarteservicesstartingat$25.

TheInnCrowd

Motelculture is trendy againatthese

Texaslodgings. BYDARCIE

READYTOGORETRO? Across theLoneStarState,motelsare experiencing arenaissance.A portmanteauof“motor” and“hotel,”thistypeof lodginggainedpopularityaftertheconstructionofthehighwaysystemin the1950s and’60s, and, unliketraditional hotels with crowdedlobbies, thesespacesofferedprivacyandeasyaccesstomajorroads.Withtheirhip midcentury-modernaesthetics, nostalgictouches,and affordablerates, motelshavebeguntocaptivateanewgenerationoftravelers.Explorethese five cool Texaslodgesduringyournextroadtrip.

2 CavalryCourt

Whetheryou“hook’em”or“gig’em,”thisValenciaGroupacquisitionistheperfectspottohang your hatduringthe Lone Star Showdown this November.Timelesshospitalityandaretroambiancetransportgueststocharmingmotorcourts of yesteryear.The 141-room spaceshowcases relaxedluxurywithrichwoodaccents,Army greenhues, andmilitary-inspired touchesthat paytribute to CollegeStation’s heritage.For a vibrantmealwithmusic,headtothelivelyCanteen Bar& Grillfor friedalligator bitesand brisketfritters. cavalrycourt.com

3 ThunderbirdMarfa

left:

1 HotelLucine

Originally opened as theTreasureIsleMotel in the’60s,thisrecentlyrenovated61-roominnisa cozy Galvestonoasis.Soakupocean viewsfrom therooftop barorchill by thePalmSprings–inspiredpoolintheclassicU-shapedcourtyard. DesignedbyAustin’sKartwheelStudio,thehotel mixesclean lineswithvintage detailslikeaged bronze,antiquemirrors,andreededglass.Order elevated comfortfoodwitha French twistatits on-siterestaurant, TheFancy,and don’tmiss HotelLucine’sholidayevents,includingafestive NewYear’sEvebash hotellucine.com

Locallyrun since1959, ThunderbirdMarfa was reinvigoratedin2005witha freshdesignby Austin’s Lake FlatoArchitects, preserving its classic’50shorseshoeshapeandinteriorcourtyard.Thechicdesertretreatfusesmodernluxury andvintage vibes, featuring24minimalist roomswithwarmwoodaccents,natural light, andthoughtfultouches such as record players forrent.Theroadsidemoteloffersasereneescape forartenthusiasts,invitinggueststosoakupthe vibrantMarfa culture—or just wile away in the refreshing pool thunderbirdmarfa.com

4 StonewallMotor Lodge

NestledamongthetreesalongtheHighway290 WineTrail,thisrevampedlodgeblendscontemporaryamenitieswiththrowbackcharm.Opened in 1964,the year followingLyndonB.Johnson’s

Clockwisefromtop
Hotel Lucine’s stunning courtyardpool; Cavalry Court’smilitary-inspired decor; the charming exterior of Stonewall Motor Lodge.

presidential inauguration,the L-shaped motel has12stylish roomsand four privatecabinsas wellasRVsites.Historybuffswilllove“ThePress Room,” whichhas akitchenette that wasonce used as adarkroom. Just 10 minutesfromFredericksburg,themotelisyourgatewayto75wineriesand breweries, plus JohnsonCity’sdazzling holidaylights. stonewallmotorlodge.com

5 Interstate Inn

Awhite 1960sCadillacparkedatthe entrance adds an Instagram-worthy photoopp to this Stephenvillemotel.SlatedtoopeninDecember, theInterstateInn (formerlyCaravan Inn) offers 33uniqueroomswithcustomfurnitureby6572 Buildthatmeldsmidcenturyandmodernstyles. Twoofthe spaces even featurekitschy surprises fromabygoneera:aclassicwaterbedandanoldschool MagicFingers vibratingbed.Hungry? Enjoyon-sitediningatTheSeekerbyJamesBeard Award–winningchefStephan Pylesbeforeyou hittheroad theinterstateinn.com

Blanton AllDay

DEC 14

Jingle Jam

Sunday, 10 AM –5 PM

Gatheringand giving thanks forart with arttalks,storytime, livemusic by Fishboy, andDJSet by BreakawayRecords

Saturday,10AM– 8PM

Ringinginthe season with aperformance by Conspirare, DJ SetbyBreakaway Records, talk on St.Cecilia (patronsaint of music),cardmaking, Curator’sChoicetalk, andmore.

JAN 11 NewYear, NewGroove Saturday,10AM–8PM

Celebrate2025withSilent Discodancing,Look &Listen Storytime, pop-up printexhibition, ArtwithanExperttalk, andmore.

MEMBERSGET IN FREE • TICKETS$10–20

Support forBlanton AllDay is provided by:Media Sponsor: blantonmuseum.org/AllDay art• talks• tours• music• storytime• bites/bevs NOV 10 AFeast forthe Eyes

TheFrench Connection

WhileAustinhas itsfairshare of traditionalbakeshops,Amanda Rockmanfeltthe city lacked one with atrueurban mindset. Forher eponymousnewconcept,theformer NewWaterloopastrychefdrewinspirationfromParisianboulangeries andbakeriesinNew York City and London.“What Iloveabout these places is you’ll be walkinginthe streetsat2 in theafternoon and people areeatingice creamand croissantsandcookies,”shesays.“It doesn’tjusthavetobeafter dinner orforbreakfast.”Openedthisfallon EastCesarChavez,RockmanCoffee + Bakeshopfeaturesfreshpastries such as aspicedpecan kouignamannandlemonmeringuecroissant,aswellassavoryfocaccia sandwichesforlunch.Awashinhues of teal,coral,and mustard, the eye-catchingspaceincludesagallery wall highlighting localartists like Iris Kwon.But don’tjustgofor the deliciouseats—theall-day shop boastsacuratedbeveragemenuwith vermouth spritzes andlemonade shandies.“Youcanhavesomething thatyouwouldn’tnecessarilythink abakerywouldhave,”Rockmansays. Oui,oui!—MadelineHollern

CuttingThrough theNoise

Popularrestaurantsoftensufferfrom overlyloudenvironments.Oneveteran hospitalitygrouphasadviceonhowto createamoreharmoniousambiance.

BYBRYANC.PARKER

ONARECENTFridaynight,localphotographerLeta Harrisonmetupwithagroupofclosefriendsfordinneratachicrooftoprestaurantdowntown.Whilethe foodanddrinksweredelicious,sheremembersspendingallnightstrugglingtohearortalktoanyoneather table.“IfI’mhavingadinner,Ishouldbeabletohavea conversation withoutyelling,” Harrison says.The cacophonousenvironmentwasparticularlyfrustrating, becauseshewascelebratingherbirthdayandhadbeen excitedaboutcatchingupwithhercrew.

Thisanecdotewasfarfromtheonlyoneweheard aftera recent appeal to readersfor talesofnoisy dining experiences. Withoutnamingnames,other notedoffenders included ahip Italianeatery, an upscalefusionrestaurant, anda Japanese noodle shop.Butitdoesn’thavetobethisway.EllenSaathoff, thedirectorofdesignfor HaiHospitality (which managesthe Uchi restaurant group) says that when herteamthinksabout design,it’sabout more than justartanddecor—theauralexperienceofarestaurant is crucial. Here areher protipsonhow to foster a more enjoyableatmosphere.

Soft Surfaces

Part of theapproach involves plush, upholsteredboothsand leatherchair pads,but theHai team also uses sonicmitigation solutionsakintohow arecording studio mightsoundproofits space.

“AtUchibaAustin, it lookstothe nakedeye maybelikeit’sjusta gypsum ceiling paintedblue, but it’s actually allbluefabric-wrapped acoustic panels to help absorb all thesound,” shesays.

StrategicSeating

Undoubtedly, thenumberofseats in arestaurant is goingtoaffectthe decibellevel,and there’sa tipping pointwhere noiseishardtoavoid

ButSaathoff says herteamhas perfectedthe spacingbetween tables,allowingfor densitywithout it feelingtoo crowdedorloud. “You want it to feel aliveand notlike you’re in thelibrary,” shesays. “It stillfeels energetic, butyou can have conversations.

QuietKitchen

Have youeverbeentoarestaurant andrealizedyou couldhearthe dinof clanging plates andsilverwarebeing tossed into industrial-sized sinks? “There is some considerationaround designingwhere exactlythe louder part of thekitchen is,” Saathoff says of Haiproperties. Sheand herteam take care to ensure that theareato drop off andwashdirty dishes is as farremoved andinsulated from the dining room as possible

PerfectPlaylist

What you’ll notice aboutthe musicat hotspots like Uchi andUchibaare songsthathaveanupbeatrhythm withoutbeing club bangers. “We’ve really triedtomakeitaplaygroundof soundthatreflects both Austin,but also thebroad setofguestswehave through ourdoorevery day,”says chiefbrand officerAmber Quist. That meansclassicslikeMarvinGayeas well as thechill aestheticofTexas psychedelicrockgroup Khruangbin.

AvantGarden

Inside this clever dessertat HotelVan Zandt’snew barand restaurant,Brass Poppy.

Variousmakerssupplyan assortment of rocksand truffles,but it’s thecenterone that stands out. “The green just createsZen—peace, calm,” thechefsays. Crafted locallyusing apassionfruit blacksesameganache by the team at Golden Eye, therock is theperfect balanceof delicate yetfirm

Ledesma, 41,drewon nostalgiafor theconcoction, asking himself: “Whatwere theflavors from when we were young?”Guestsfind themselves transportedto a simplertimewhile fiddlingwith therealistic rocks, thesand, andthe sugary mass of tree “All grown-ups,” he says,“we want to play with food,too.”

DON’TLET YOUR eyes fool you. Whilethe BoxofRocks wouldmakeafinecenterpiece,thisjaw-droppingnewdessert atBrassPoppyisentirelyedible(minusthewoodenrake).Chef SergioLedesmacraftedhisconfectionarydelighttolooklike ablend of achildhood sandboxand aZen garden.Here, the executivechefforHotelVanZandtbreaksdownhowhecreates thecomponentsinthismemorabledish

Thetreewas originally going to be plasticuntil thechef decidedhewantedtohave some funwiththat, too. The stumpismadefrom chocolatemade in-house with cotton candyforming the billowingcanopyand redPop Rocksdottedhereand there as makeshiftleavesto resemblecherryblossoms.

Aftertryingcrackersand cookies, thechefsettled on Cheerios forthe sand.The cereal is pulverized in a Vitamixbeforepassing throughasieve to sort outthe chunks.And to answer your question:Yes,patrons eatthe sand.“Oneguy even asked me foraspoon,” he says

COLLIN FINDLAY

Purchaseour special “Zoo/WildLights” comboticket andenjoy theZoo during regularhours andthe enchanting Wild Lights starting at 6pm.

Thebestpart? Your ticketsare valid through 12/31/24,and youdon’t have to usethemon thesameday.

Experiencelight,color,and

This

SavingGrace

Howlocal nonprofitRally Austin is rescuing capitalcitycultural treasureslikeHoleinthe Wall andAustinPlayhouse from spikingrents andrapid development.

Beat TheCity

THEREWEREPLENTYofdaysinrecentyears when Will Tanner wondered howlonghe’dbe able to keep thedoors open at theHoleinthe Wall.The ownerofthe belovedlivemusic spot acrossthestreetfromtheUTcampushadsteered thebusinessthrough thestruggles of the COVID-19 pandemic that hadclaimed wellknownvenuessuchasShadyGrove,Threadgill’s, andBarracuda.Butthedevelopmentprospects fortheattractivepropertymeanthecouldonly secureshort-termleasesthatofferednostability. At anymoment, thelandcould be sold to makewayforcondosorsomehigh-endmixedusedevelopment,justasAustiniteshavewitnessedonSouthCongressandinEastAustin

“Wewerealwaysunderthegun,anditfeltlike wewerejuststrugglingtogetby,”Tannersays.In 2023,the club wasfacinga month-to-month lease, whichistypically thelifesupport phase formosthospitalitybusinesses.Itlookedlikethe woodenstagethatoncehostedperformerslike Townes VanZandt,Spoon,and Stevie Ray Vaughanwouldsoonbeaheapofsplinters

Butinsteadofjoiningthelonglistofmusic venues crushedbyAustin’sgrowth, it was givenanew20-yearleaseonlifethankstothe work of RallyAustin, an emerging player in thelocal real estate anddevelopment game that’s heavilyfocused on preserving or creatingculturallyimportant spaces in Austin Createdin2020under thenameofAustin Economic DevelopmentCorporation,the quasi-public nonprofitrebranded as Rally Austin earlierthisyear. It has21board members,withamixofsomecitystaff,localcreative

leaders, andrealestateexperts.Beyondan annualbudgetofalittlemorethan$2million fromthecity,fundingfromprivatebusinesses, grants,andphilanthropicchannelshavefurthered thegroup’s missionofpreservation.

TosaveHITW,RallyAustinused$1.6million of Cultural Trustfunding last August to help thevenue secure anew long-termlease and fundcrucialimprovements.Thedealalsomade an accessorybuildingsuitabletohouse popular burger spot Jewboy Cantina, whichprovidesTannerwithrentalincometoshore up HITW’s bottom line.

“Thehelpcamejustintime,”Tannersays.“I guessyou don’trealize something’sweighing on youuntil it’s lifting.”The innovative deal betweenhis business,Rally Austin,and the propertyownerstookaboutayeartofinalize Afterturning headswiththe HITW announcement,RallyAustinhasbuiltanimpressivelistofdealsinserviceofprotectingAustin’s musicand arts spaces.LastDecember, it dedicated$4.5millionfromthe city toward Austin Playhouse’splanned dual-theater facility,andinJuly,itmovedforwardwitha$2.5 milliondealthatwillprovide a40-year lease to theMuseumofHuman Achievement, an artsspaceinEastAustin.Then,inSeptember, thenonprofithelpedEmpireControl Room andGarage, alivemusic venueinthe Red RiverCulturalDistrict,securefundingtobuy thelanditsitsonandexpand.Byhelpingsave independentandendangeredcreativespaces, RallyAustinisblazing atrail that aligns with thecity’sKeepAustinWeird motto.

RappersDeezieBrown and JakeLloyd perform at EmpireGarage, one of the venuesthat gives the RedRiver Cultural District its distinct character.

RALLYCAP

It takesbig buckstofoster theAustinidentityweknow andlove.

$300 million

Estimatedcostoflocal projects deserving funding.

45

Creative spaceproposals received by RallyAustinin spring 2022

$19million

Amount of city fundingdevoted to conductRally Austin’s first roundofdeals

6

Real estate dealscompleted by RallyAustin, as of earlyOctober 2024

0.5%

Typicalprofit margin for independentvenues, perthe U.K.’s MusicVenue Trust.

Theonedownsidetotheseloftyaims?There aresimplytoo many worthy causes.All of the roughly$19 million provided by thecityhas beenusedorisallocatedformorein-the-works deals,andtherearedozensofprojectstotaling morethan$300millionthatwouldmakegood candidates forfuturefunding,according to RallyAustin’schief transactionofficer, Anne GatlingHaynes. Butthere’s only so much fundingavailable foreverythingRally Austin hasinits sights

OnebitofgoodnewsarrivedinSeptember, when Austin City CouncilincludedRally Austin in aresolutiontoprovide aplanfor utilizing$11millioninfundingtobuyhistoric cultural properties—thoughany decisions on howtouse that moneywillcomeafter considerable communitydiscussion.

Cost of rent anddevelopment pressures facing musicvenuesand arts groups aren’t a newthreatinAustin’screativeeconomy.The impendingclosure of TheLostWell, apunk andheavymetalbarinEastAustin,isjustthe latest chapterina long list of bygone live musichubs.LibertyLunchmetitsdemisetomake wayforthecurrentcityhall,singer-songwriterhavenMomo’sclosedduetostructuraland safety concerns,and Beerland shutteredin 2019 amid theowner’s financialwoes.

Butit’snotjustvenues—thestrainonindividualartistsisbecomingtoomuchtobearas well.Lastyear,thelatestAustinMusicCensus foundthat38% of respondentssay they’re strugglingtoaffordhousing,with36%saying they plannedtoleave theAustinareainthe next threeyears

Alongwiththerealestatedeals,RallyAustinhas setaffordablehousing as anotherpriority. On behalf of theUrban RenewalBoard, itwilloverseeaspectsoftheredevelopmentof twoblocksofcitypropertyonEast11thStreet near Franklin Barbecue.The nonprofitwill advise on housingneeds that help retain the heritage of thearea, whichhas historically been ahub of thecity’sBlack culturewithestablishments likeVictory East,the club and restaurant formerly knownasVictory Grill.

WhileHaynesworries if RallyAustinwill ever have enough moneyand resourcesto fullyrespond to thecity’sneeds,she andher colleaguesareproudofthetrackrecordthey’re building.She recently stoppedbyHoleinthe Wall fora drinkand took amomenttoreflect on that success. “Staff were starting to pack boxes,”she says,recalling amuchdrearier outlookinthe not-so-distant past.Now,the storiedclubisbuzzingwithactivityonceagain.

CreatingfertilegroundsforauthenticAustin experienceslikethesetoflourishisexactlywhat Haynes wantstosee.For decades, capitalcity residentshavelamentedtheerosionofeverything thatmadethisplacesospecial.Withthehelpof RallyAustin,there’saglimmerofoptimismthat ourbeloved creative institutions canremain rootedasthecityaroundthemgrows

SpiceofLife

Whocan resist thesiren song of a TripleDipperandaPresidenteMargarita?Testing theboundariesof irony, locallovefor theChili’s on NorthLamarhasgrownmoreardent with each passingyear. In April, Austin MayorKirkWatsonmade thingsofficialbysigningaproclamationrecognizingthechainrestaurant with itsown specialday.Turns out, ourcityleaderisa huge fanofthe SantaFesaladwithgrilledchicken.

AWalk in thePark

Apparently,youdon’tevenneed functional wingstofly the coop.After severalcitizens reported twostray emus mysteriously wandering throughZilker Park, animalprotectionofficers wrangled theavian pair andlaunched asearchfortheowners. Afterspending thenight at Austin Animal Center,the lankyAustralian critterswerehanded overtoauthoritiesat theAustinZoo to preventany further flightrisk

HottoGo

Afterseeingawhopping80 daysof100-degreetemperaturesin2023, thecapital city gota welcomereprievewithan unexpectedlymildsummer.Austin hadjust32daysof100-degreeheat this year,and severaldaysinJuly didn’t even reach90degrees.The cooler weathercombinedwithincreasedrainmadethisCentral Texassummerdownrightbearable

The Best andWorst ofAustin in 2024

From looseemus roamingZilkerPark to alocal company accidentally breaking the internet,here’sour annual rundown of thecity’sgood, bad, andjust plainweird

Heavy Medal

From KevinDuranthelping Team USAsecureanother gold medalin basketballtoTaraDavis-Woodhall’s first-placefinishinlongjump,former andcurrentLonghornathletesdominatedatthe2024Olympicgamesin Paris. In total, they earned 16 medals—includingsix gold—meaning that if theUTcontingentwerea country, it wouldhaveranked16th overallinmedal count, just behind SpainbutaheadofSweden.

NightOwls

With fun-loving personalitieslike MatthewMcConaughey andWillie Nelsoncallingthecapitalcityhome, it should come as no surprise that Austin likestoliveitup. In August, Britishculture magazine Time Out namedAustintheNo.1cityinAmericafor nightlife, citing itsendless summers,funkyspirit,andlate-night dancepartiesatCheerUpCharlies.

Don’tStopBelievin’

Reportsthat“OldAustinisdead” have been greatlyexaggerated. Aftertwo capitalcitystaples nearly closed this year,both werebroughtbackfromthe brink:Ego’sfoundamiraclefixtomajorplumbing issues,andBluesonthe Greenwasresuscitated by an H-E-Bsponsorship.Wantmoreproof? Katz’sDeliannounced in Septemberthatit wouldreturntoits original location on West SixthStreet14 yearsafter shuttering OldAustinneverklozes!

Double Jeopardy

I’ll take greatcitiesfor $1000, Alex!Austinfound game show fame when it was featuredasanansweronJeopardy! in June.Somelongtime residentsbalkedatthe clue,which referredtoTex-MexrestaurantPolvos beingpartofa supposed “Mexican Mile.”Admittedly,we’veneverheard thenickname, butitwas stillfun to seethecapitalcitygetashoutouton aclassicTVprogram.

Striking Out

PeopleacrossAmericaawokeonJuly 19 to discover atechnologyoutage affecting Windowsoperating systems,whichtookoutamajorchunk of theinternetand caused massive numbersofcanceledflights Embarrassingly,itwasalldueto afaultysoftwareupdatefrom Austin-basedcybersecurityfirm CrowdStrike. Thecompany addedinsulttoinjurywhenit triedtoapologize to itscustomers with$10UberEatsgiftcards

StrangeBedfellows

Dozens of performers droppedout of SXSW afterlearningthatthe festival made asponsorship deal with theU.S.Armyand weapons manufacturerslikeRTX.Toitscredit,the fest issued amea culpapress releaseinJuneconfirmingthat thosepartnershipswouldbediscontinuedforthe2025event.

Hell on Wheels

BuiltattheGigafactoryjustoutside of Austin,the Cybertruck hasendureda comedy of errors sinceits debut,includingatleastfiverecalls in thefirst year.AnApril notice fromTeslainformedownersthata faulty pedalcould getstuck and “cause thevehicle to accelerate unintentionally.”Andinoneironic incident,a Cybertruck crashed into a fire hydrantand then burst intoflameswhenitgotwet.Wehave cyberlemon laws,right?

In aFog

In earlyApril,Austinitesprepped fortherareopportunitytoglimpse atotal solareclipse—onlytohavea thickcloudcoverrollinjustintime to obscureviews of thecelestial phenomenon.Itwasevenmoreofa

bustforthehordesoftravelerswho trekkedtoCentralTexasfromacross theworld forthe experience.Don’t worry, thecapital city will have anotherchancetosee atotal eclipse in checksnotes—theyear2343

OldSchool

Despitesomeresearchshowingthat remote andhybridworkarrangementscan be effective,the University of Texasissueda sweeping statementthatnearlyallstaffmembershadtoreturntocampusforthe startofthe2024academicyear.The biggesttestthissemester? Keeping yourcoolduringrushhouronI-35

Holy Crap

TrafficbackeduponMopac one SundayeveninginSeptemberafter aRadiant Plumbing truck flipped over near theBurnetRoadexit.

(Luckily,the driver came outunscathed.)While trafficjamsonthe loop arenothing new, we’repretty sureRadiantissupposedtobeclearingout clogsinstead of causing them.Hey,atleast they’llget the opportunitytomakethe mishap into acampy commercial spoofing TheFastandtheFurious

Locked OutofHeaven

Stop me if you’ve heardthisone:A belovedAustinmusic spacewill be razedtobuildcondos.SeanDaigle, owneroflate-nightdisco hotspot OuterHeaven,announcedinOctoberthatthe danceclub’slandlord wouldsellthe property to adeveloper.Welcome,transplants!We’ve gota vibrantarray of musicvenues andnightlifehubsyou’llabsolutely love.They’re around here somewhere—we just can’tseemtofind thematthemoment.

JukeboxHeroes

As vintagemachinesvanishfrom Austin’s musicscene,someclassic bars keep theold-schoolvibes alive.

IT’SAROUNDMIDNIGHTonanaverageweekdaywhenRamseyMidwood clears napkinsand emptycigarette packsfromthe topofthe bulky WurlitzerjukeboxattheedgeofSam’sTownPoint’s dancefloor.Midwood,whoownstheSouthAustin honky-tonk,plugsinthemachine—lightsflicker foramoment—andpressestwobuttons.Thewarm scratchy sounds of musichistory pour from the frontspeaker

When it comestoAustin, visitors andlocals craveauthentic experiencesaroundmusic,and thatdoesn’tjustmeanseeingartistsperformlive. What’sinsideanoldjukeboxdefinesabar’scharacterasmuchasa bouncer’sattitudeand abartender’ssmile.AtSam’sTownPoint,HankWilliams earnestlypleadsthegospelstandard“CallingYou,” whichlures severalcurious patronsovertothe jukebox’sglasspanellikegearheadscheckingunder thehoodofa ’57Chevy.They’re transfixedbythe non-LEDlights, buttonswithrealtexture,and a vinyl45recordspinningrightinfrontoftheireyes

“Everybodylovesthelookofitandtheinteraction with it when youpushthe buttonsand have an expectation,”saysMidwood,grinningwitha secret,“andthenthatexpectation is defied.” The joke here is that therecords inside Midwood’s antiqueWurlitzer arerandomlyswitchedout, renderingthe listed songsmeaningless.There’s somuchsurprisedcommotionwheneveraselected song doesn’t getplayedthatmorepeopleare drawntoitsanalogglow

Jukeboxesusedtostayplugged in androckingall over Austin,but pridefor themachines ain’twhatitoncewas.Moreneighborhood bars—including legendaryhonky-tonks,dance halls,andevenplacesproudtobecalled“dives”— have 86ed theirold-school jukes, usuallyfor thoughtlessinternet-enabledsongdispensers likeTouchTunes.Suchstreamingservicesprovide countlesssongs that dilute unique encounters, fuelingcustomerexpectationsthatevery song should be availableatevery bar. Once-hallowed hauntsbegintofeelsoulless,andAustinsounds just like everyplace else

Butafewdiehardshavekepttheoldequipment intact,likeatCasinoelCamino,whereanEncore jukeboxremainstheonlysourceofmusic.“Iwant to establisha certainatmosphere, so Ihandpick everything,” says Paul Eighmey, whogoesbythe name Casino.Heopenedthe downtown baron SixthStreetin1994and hasalwaystaken acuratorial approach to theretro garage,punk, metal, androckabillyclassicsinthe machine. “I don’t want anything from Motörheadfollowedupby ‘IslandsintheStream,’”hesays

At NorthAustin’sChristmas-themedLala’s LittleNugget,theRock-Olajukeboxhasplayedthe same songsfromEttaJames,DeanMartin, and

FrankSinatraforaslongasanyonethereremembers,whichisjusthowtheylikeitatthis51-year-old treasure.WhenMaxMorelandandFBRManagementboughtLala’sin2015,hewastoldthejukebox hadnever been updated, so he kept it exactlythe sameway.ButFBRownsmorethanadozenAustinbars—includingMeanEyedCatandDiveBar andonlyLala’sfeaturesa jukebox. Individual playlistspipedinviaPAsystemareusedforspecifc moods,likeslowhappyhoursorbuzzylatenights.

“One of thenegatives of thejukebox is that you’reputtingthemusicaldecisionsinsomeone else’shands.You’regivingsomeonecontrolofthe room’s energy,and it canbekindofperilous,” Morelandsays.

Playlistsmaymaintainadesiredatmosphere, butextractingcustomerparticipationupsetsthe time-honored balancebetween publican and patron:Barownersfillthejukeboxwithmusic,and customerschoosewhatsongs getplayed. This arrangementkeepsbarssoundinghowtheyshould ratherthanhowindividualcustomerswantthem tosound.EvenTouchTunescan’tguaranteethat

“We’renotsupposedtohavepopmusicorhard rock,but some of thosesongs do slip through,” says EddieCostilla, ownerofthe well-seasoned East Side cantinaLaPerla (a true dive,not to be confusedwithupscalerestaurantPerla’s).Heshrugs toward theTouchTunesmachine that replaced a beautifulNSM Sapphire jukebox—loaded with RamHerrera,JohnnyCash, andSelena—and explainsthatifasong’sdigitalmetadataiscoded inSpanish,itgetsthroughhispre-selectedfilters. “I’vehadsomeAC/DCsongsgetthroughbecause thebandplayedinMexico,”hesays.

UsingTouchTunesisalsoanonymous,sono onegetsblamedfor playingCelineDion, and systemscanbeaccessedremotely,meaningsome wisenheimercanbombabarwith“MyHeartWill GoOn”whiledrivingpast.Onefeatureissonefarious,it’sindefensible:“FastPass”allowsanyoneto paymoremoney andjumpahead in thequeue, erasingthe fine line between“thecustomeris alwaysright”andsheercapitalisticanarchy.

ButbackatSam’sTownPoint,wheretheWurlitzer 2900 is stockedwithmystery batchesof vinyl45s,a patron couldn’t exerttheir will even if they triedtheir damnedest. Midwoodloves plugging in thejukebox foranother roundof musicalroulette.Nomatterwhatgetsplayed,it’ll be copaceticwiththe distinct,rootsyenergy runningthroughtheplace.

“Streamingisaservice,butit’snotapleasure,” Midwoodsays.“There’snoemotioninit.”Accordingtohim,the jukeboxhelps retain an audience andanambiance. Or as he puts it:“This place becomesalittlebitofanescapefromthatall-youcan-eataudiobuffet.”

From top: Song listingsfor 45s in Sam’sTownPoint’sjukebox; the front of the Encore jukebox at Casino el Camino; CDsinside the Encore juke; the Wurlitzer jukeboxatSam’s Town Point.

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RESERVE NOW

2024 2024

Getready to makesomereservations!After tasting our wayacrossthe capital city’sculinaryscene,we’ve roundedupthe most dynamic,decadent, distinctive,and delightful dining experiencesinAustin. From new-school barbecueand high-end vegancuisine to acanapé barserving gourmet chickennuggets and caviar,wepresent our topnew restaurants of the year.

POETA POETA

Whilequality ItalianjointsinAustinhavehistoricallybeenfewandfarbetween,chefsIanThurwachterand KrystalCraig aredoing theirbesttoamend that reputation.After thebreakouthit of their first restaurant,Intero, theduo (pictured, left)struck magicagainwiththeirlatestItalianconcept.Featuringsumptuous velvet curtains,jewel-toned decor, and floral banquettes,Poeta is theideal spot fora téte-á-tétewithyourbetterhalf.LeanintotheFrench QuartervibewiththeSazerac-madeSpaghettiWesterncocktail, or orderthe GrandCanal,“anutty play on aManhattan.” Theaward-winning chefs’ commitmenttofarm-to-tableingredientsradiates inthebeetsalad:Loadedwithfresh dill,andfennel,theheartydishsa fies with chunks of fattyavocado whilethe orange citrus zest of the dressing keepsyourpalatelight forwhat’stocome.Treatyourself withanorderofthegnocchiand lamb confit, featuringa memorabletomatobutter, anddon’t missthelocallysourcedroasted porkchop.ButtheG.O.A.T.dish of theevening?The goat cheese cheesecake,which showcases pastry chef Krystal’sobsession fo ladolcevita

Star Dishes: Roastedbeets, gnocchiwithlambconfit,roasted pork chop,chèvrecheesecake

Destination: 1123 E. 11th St

EvanLeRoyisn’tafraidtoruffleafewfeathers.For alongtime, thelaudedchefdared to servethe crownjewelofCentralTexasbarbecue—brisket onlyonedayaweek.Butthosewhohad,well,beef with that decision quicklyconcededoncethey triedtherestofhisstellar’cue.Withanose-to-tail approach,LeRoy (pronouncedLUH-roy)favors lesser-knowncutslikesmokedflatironsteaksand beef cheeks.His innovative stylegarneredhim a loyalfanbase during sevenyears at histrailer at Cosmic Coffee.Atlonglast, thecompany he coowns with Sawyer Lewisand LindseyLeRoy upgraded to a5,000-square-foot brick-and-mortar withafullbarearlythisyear.Adventurousdiners canheadtothenewSouthAustinspacetosample

LEROY&LEWIS LeROY &LEWIS BA MB INO BAMB INO

miso glazed carrots, wheatand ryeberry salad with house-pickledcranberry,and hogfat cornbread. Don’tevenconsiderleaving withoutpurchasingabottleofLeRoy&Lewis’famedbeet barbecue sauce. With acom to sustainability,the restau utilizesmeatfromTexaspurv orslike44Farms,Peacefu Pork,andLoreneFarms,and theconcept features libationslikeBig Redsangria anda “Meat-chelada” that youcan sipwhile waiting in line—now, thankfully, intheairconditioning

Star Dishes: Pulled wholehog,barbacoa, citrahop sausage, burnt cauliflowerends

Destination: 5621 EmeraldForestDrive

There’ssomethingsojoyfullynostalgicaboutsinking yourteethintoasliceofpizzathatitbringsoutthekid in allofus. Perhapsthat’swhy L’Ocad’Oro founders FioreTedesco andAdamOrman decidedtocreate theirnew endeavor with thespiritofthe ’80s East Coastpizzerias that they frequented in theiryouth BeforeworkinginfamedpizzaspotslikeRoberta’sin NewYorkand BufalinainAustin, Tedescogrewup shapingrolls at hiscousin’sbakery. Indeed,family influencesarewoventhroughouttheEastSideconcept: Bambinoisthe nickname of Tedesco’sson,Frances; thechefdrewinspiration from hiscousin’sfavorite pizzajoint in Caseta,Italy;and he spentseveral years workingonthe doughtoemulate thememoriesof belovedpiesfromSouthernItalian relatives. Made with Barton SpringsMill flour, hisdough features a crispy bottom with asmall airy pocket betweenthe crustand thesauce layertogiveita delicate crunch Fungiloverswilladore theumami goodness in The LittleStinker,whichuseslion’smaneandmushroom conserva,andmargheritafansmusttrytheMiScusi, an elevated take on theclassic featuringsmoked scamorzaandanuttysesameseedcrust.Delizioso!

Star Dishes: Mi Scusi, TheLittleStinker Beets&Brittle,frozenaffogato

Destination: 979SpringdaleRoad, Ste. 153

CASA BIANCA CASA BIANCA

Sure,you’vehadlasagna—buthaveyouevertried dessertlasagna? That’s exactlythe type of offthe-wallcreationyou’llfindatCasaBianca,which playfullypridesitselfon“Weirdo Italian” fa TheEastAustinrestaurant’sriff on them feuille(“thousandsheets”)dessertusesthesam doughfromthecannolirolledintoalasagn sheet, stuffed with diplomat-style cream, then topped with powdered sugar. After twoyears as chef de cuisineatUchi, Joe Zoccolibegan doingprivate dinnersand pop-upswithhis ownAmerican-Italian concept,CheCazzo.Thisspring,thetimingwas righttoopenhis firstbrick-andmortaronCesarChavezinawhitebuilding, hencethe name Casa Bianca.The chef’s Italian-ishmenudazzles with innovative dishes:thinkspicytunacannoli,clamscasino panzerotti with house-made Calabrianchi jam,andcrispyskinbranzinowithcarameliz eggplantpurée.Digyourforkintotheoutstand inghojasantacannelloni,ablanchedhojasanta leaf from localHausBar UrbanFarm filled with truffle-ricottamoussethatisrolledina pasta sheet,broiledwithcaciottacheese,andfinished withanarrabbiatasauce.Withitspleasantgreen hues andgorgeousbar,the cozy interior is a naturalspotfor adate—butifyou’d rather have anegroninexttoFidoonthedog-friendlypatio instead,we’dhardlyblameyou

Bread Winners

SINK YOUR TEETHINTOTHESE 3STELLAR NEW SANDWICHES IN THE CAPITAL CITY.

Murray’s Tavern

Star Dishes: Clamscasinopanzerotti, hoja santacannelloni, lasagnamille-feuille Destination: 1510 E. CesarChavezSt.

Youcan’t saythe words“Beef ‘n Cheddar” withoutconjuring up some sort of Arby’s drive-thru order. Butthis versionatMurray’sTavernisona whole otherlevel.Dehydratedonionsare baked onto thetop of theHokkaido-style Japanese milk bun, andthe oozing “cheddar”includestwo kindsofcheese, evaporated milk,Dijon,and sherry vinegar. Beyond theslow-roastedeye of round, themostimportant componentis theaujus,madefromprime ribtrimand drippingsreinforcedwithbeef demi-glace

Guppy’s

RajBandi fell in love with friedchicken when he first triedthe crunchydishin India10years ago. Ever since, he’s been dreaming abouthow to marrythe flavors of theSouth Asianversion to the American staple.AtGuppy’s,the chef utilizesa12-hour marination processfor hisfresh Halalchicken,fries it anddipsit in duck fat, then offersfourspice levels featuringpeppers imported from India. (The hottestiteration even requires a waiver.) SavorBandi’s artful twistonslaw, avibrant mixofred cabbage, mandarin carrots, andbrightyellowmustard

Knuckle Sandwich

Austin hasnoshortageofgreat Italian sandwiches,but this mightjustbethe best oneinthe city.ChefRyanFox sourceshis curedmeats from Olympia Provisions in Portland,where theJames Beard–nominatedchefran atasting-menu-onlyrestaurant. Thebread arguably themostimportant element of thedish, is brought in dailyfromPullman Market or AbbeyJaneBakeshop, but wherethe 9-inch cold-cut creation truly shines is thesauce.Fox makesanaioli usingpickled mangocalledambathat pairswithZa’atar in thevinaigrette

Ā UC HIB Ā

UC HIB

Traditionalizakayaarerelaxedbarhangoutsthatservecasualfare—somethinglikeJapan’s versionofanIrish pub. HaiHospitality’s latest concept merges that atmosphere with theupscale cuisinethatmadeUchione of Austin’smostreveredrestaurants.Atthisdowntowneatery,youdon’thave to give up delectable Toyosu sushiorstaples like thehamachili,but you stillget theadded benefitofinventive specials like abirriabao bunwith kimchi andcheddar.“There’sa little more freedomhere,”chefdecuisine VaidasImshasays.“Youcangoascrazyasyouwant.”Forexample,arecent menu specialfeaturing an elevated take on theMcRib with a1 sous vide pork riband ahouse-madehoisinsauce.The Lithua chef even dida take on hisgrandmother’s pierogis by fillin dumplingwithpotatopurée andtopping it with aJapanes currysauce.While therestaurantgroup’s Austin locations previously served only sake cocktails, Uchibā hasa full complementofbaringredientstomatchupwithalltheseexperimentations. That newability hasled to amenusection dubbed “perfect pairs,”suchasthe martinicoupled with a Campariponzu oyster.Evenina restaurant that’s allabout reinvention, sometimesthe classics area hit.

StarDishes: Phowagyu beef dumplings, hotfried chicken bun, hama chili

Destination: 601W.SecondSt.

Lao’dBar Lao’dBar

It’s notoften that arestaurantwilltruly surprise you—especially onethatcalls itself abar.Ostensiblya tropical watering hole,this eaterytransportsgueststoanAsiannightmarketfilledwithbambooaccentsandartfulhomagestothepachyderm.BorninSoutheastAsiaandraisedinDallas,BobSomsithdeftlyfusesthecuisine of hisupbringingwithcontemporaryAmericandishes. TheEast Austin hotspotopenedthispastspringafter yearsofthe chef honinghiscraftathisSek-Sē•Füd•Kō(“SexyFoodCo.”)trailer.Like anygoodbar,the spacefeaturesderigueur hotdogsand chicken wings—only here,they’re in theformoffried sausagepairedwith jeow bong aioliormouthwatering wingstoppedwithingredients likeultra-spicytropicalsambal.Smalldetailsmaketheexperience indelible, from roastedricepowderand caramel fish saucemade in-housedailytodishesburstingwithlemongrassandkaffirlime. Setyourmouthonfirewiththecoconutceviche,arefreshingmix ofcuredescolartunacomplementedbykillerThaichiles,thencool your tongue with atraditional jasminericelager served on ice. ThroughhisdistinctiveSoutheastAsianconcept,Somsithisquite literallyraisingthebar

Star Dishes: Friedchicken wings, coconutescolarceviche,Lao’d Dogg,ribeyesteak skewer

Destination: 9909 FM 969, Bldg.4

PRÉLUDE PRÉLUDE

Bedecked in moodywallpapers, shimmering chandeliers,andanilluminatedbarstraightout ofthemovies,Préludeispositivelydrippingwith romance. Butit’sthe ephemeralnatureofthis canapéandcocktailbarthatgivesitintrigue.Chef Mathew Peters founda historic 1800shomejust westofdowntownandconverteditintoastunning (iftemporary)precursortohisfuturefinedining restaurant,Maven.After workingatMichelin-starredrestaurantsincludingPerSeandThe French Laundry, thechefprovedhis mettle by becoming thefirst American to ever winthe prestigiousBocused’Oraward.But don’tthink that makeshis establishmentstuffy. Oneofthe most popularitems on themenuisnoneother thanthechickennuggets,expertlypairedwitha dollop of dill crèmefraiche, Tabascosauce,and (asanupgrade) Golden Osetra caviar Savorthetexturesofthecitrus curedhamachi—servedastartarecornet“tacos”withcharred shishito andavocado purée— andcap offyourmealwith CookieRich’sdiminutiveconfections,perfectly craftedby Peters’wife, Lorin. Should you have time to explorethe property,lookfor thechef’slibrary in thesecond-floorbourbon room,whichisbrimmingwith cookbookshe’scollected over theyears

Star Dishes: Chicken nuggetswithcaviar, masa gougeres,shrimp toast Destination: 707W.10thSt.

HOWCLASSIC MARTINIS BECAME THE “IT” DRINKONCEAGAIN.

Shaken,stirred,dirty,orwithatwist:The favorite drinkofJames Bond seemed as freshaseverthisyear. Perhapsitwas allthe irresistible promotions,fromthe 75-centmartini happyhours at Whisler’sthissummertothe 25-centwet lunch offerings at Murray’s.Ormaybe locals simply gottired of being nottiredfrom allthe espresso martinis that kept them wide awakeat3 a.m. No matter thereason, thesegin-orvodka-based wonderscameroaring back in 2024.Looking for anew spot to sipand see? Checkout HESTIA BAR, whichoffersice-coldmartinisonspecial everyTuesday that are garnishedwithsmokedorbleucheese–stuffed olives.Cheers!

th ai’s kha om an ga i

pt ha i’s kh ao man ga i

Sincechildhood,ThaiChangthonghashadasingulargoal:makean authenticThaiversionofKhaoManGai.GrowingupinBangkok,the chef remembersvisitingstreetfoodvendors whowould servethe poachedchickenandricedishattheoldestChinatowninSoutheast Asia.Those core memories became hisfocal pointwhenheopened thefoodstalliterationofhisconceptinsideHongKongS rket in 2023.Althoughthe market shutteredearly this year,h graduatedtohisownlocationonAirportBoulevard,wher soul of theoriginalspotstill thrives. Featuringpoultry sauteedwithgingerandgarlicandahouse-madefermente bean chilisauce,his titular45-minute poachedchicken dishisamust-try.Buttheexpanded13-itemmenuprovides opportunitiestotaste otherrecipes seldom seen in Austin.Youcouldgetcourageousandtrythepigtongue salad—it’smoreintimidatingonpaperthanonplate orsamplethemarinatedroastchicken,whichfeatures asimplebut savory bowl of broththathitsyournose when youwalkthrough thefront door.Muchlikethe Chineselanternsthathangfromtheceiling,thedetails inthechef’srecipes ensureanauthenticThaiChinese restaurantexperience.“Myfooddoesn’tspeakEnglish,” Changthongsays.Timetotakeyourtastebudsonatrip.

TARE TARE

It’s thelittletouches that make Tare feel like ahome-cooked meal—albeita gourmetone.Duringa recent seatingofhis 15-courseomakaseservice,chefMichaelCarranzaincorporated orangesfromhisgrandmother’shomeintheRioGrandeValley to give citrusysweetness to theaguachile.Hemadethe table’s customgreenbowlswithhisgirlfriend,DanielleMartinez,who alsocraftedthestellarmatchatreslechesdessert.Thechefeven featuredaspecialtreat—bluefintunathathe’dcaughtalongside afishingcaptaininNewHampshire—inthemeal.ThesehumbleelementsgiveTarearefreshinglyunpretentiousvibealmost unheardofinAustin’s flashy omakasescene.Withexperience atlocalstapleslikeUchiandMusashino,Carranzahascertainly proven hisbona fides. He gotstarted with privatein-home dinnersjustbeforethe pandemic andopenedhis speakeasyesquespaceonthesecondfloorofaNorthAustinofficebuilding thispastJanuary.UsingpremiumseafoodsourcedfromJapan pairedwithseasonalTexasproduce,theomakaseexperienceis deemedkappo-style,alessformalculinarysetupcenteredaround thechefcooking in frontofthe diners.AsCarranzaand team chatwhiletheygrindfreshwasabiandfire-torchpiecesoffish, you’llfeellikeyou’retalkingtooldfriends.

Star Dishes: Hotate hokkaido scallop, negi toro,extra fattybluefintuna, tres leches matcha

Destination: 12414AlderbrookDrive

Star Dishes: Khao mangai,khao mangai tod, khao moo dang Destination: 4807 AirportBlvd.

Star Dishes: Parker House roll, butternutsquash agnolotti, carrot skin ravioli

Destination: 1701 E. Martin Luther King Jr.Blvd.,Ste.102

Scourthecity—oreventhecountry—andyou’lldiscoverthatplant-basedfine dining is ararity. Whichmakes chef Je Wallerstein’sgem of an eatery even more special. Shehoned herskillsatJuniper,lending to hernew concept’s Italianinfluence. Butitwas hertrainingatinternationally renowned vegan restaurantsinLondon, Berlin,and Copenhagen that gave hera quiver of complicatedtechniquesandinspiredhertoundertakeherownventure.The EastAustinrestaurantoffersaseasonalprixfixetastingmenu,andWallerstein turnedtohernativeNewHampshireforautumnalinspiration.Therestaurant’s dParkerHouserolliscoveredintoastedsesameseedsandfurikake addsarich,warmflavor.Anotherstandoutstarterfeaturesblackened uliflower,grilled oyster mushrooms, andpickled fennel drizzled withademi-glacecreatedfromunusedremnantsincludingcarrot peelsand mushroom bits.Suchsustainable practices, like using everypartoftheingredientandsourcingfromlocalfarms,won FabrikaprestigiousSmartGreenawardthatwillbepresentedin Valencia,Spain,later this year.The star of thefallmenuisthe butternutsquashagnolotti,whichsitsinavibrantacornsquash purée. Butthe best part is nearly invisible: aharissa oliveoil drizzlethatgives thedisha gentle kick.That’sthe thingabout Fabrik—thecuisineincorporatessurprisingflourishesthattake itfrommarveloustomemorable

FA BR IK FA BR IK

TAQUERIA 10DE 10 TAQUERIA 10DE 10

Even in acityknown forits tacos, Raúl Esquer stillfeltsomething waslacking.“Imissed theexperienceacustomerhasinteractingwiththetaquerolikeinMexico,”hesays.Raúl partneredwithhistwinbrother,Luis,togivelocalsatasteoftheirnativecountry.Butto experienceTaqueria10de10,first,you’llhavetofindit.Theinconspicuousspaceistucked into thealleywaybetween Second andThird Streetsdowntown. Walk into theReyReybar througha door that leadsyou into averitable taco speakeasy. Plenty of neon lightfixtures, italicized signage, andbrightwhite tilesmake foreye-catchingTikTokvideos,whichalsohelped garneranearlyfollowingforthespace.Halfthe funiswatchingthe chefsasyou make your way down thecounter line.Withthe largetrompo (verticalrotisserie) on full display, theTijuana-stylealpastortacoisago-toorder.Buthere, it’s thecarne asadathat reallysteals theshow. Chef RoyServanmarinates flap meat over a gas-poweredgrill,wrapsitinaSonora-styleflour tortilla,and tops it with theguacamole and norteñosalsas, making it thebeststeak taco in town.Lookslikethesecretisfinallyout

Star Dishes: Carneasada taco on flour, al pastor vulcan,carne asadaquesadilla

Destination: 206Trinity St., Unit 110

What’sthe

Tenyears ago, Bumble setout to make abetterdatingexperiencefor women. As anew generation reconsiders relationships, theAustin-based companyisready to evolve.

Illustrations by ANTOINEDORÉ

na warm Tuesdaynight in September 2024,armed security guards stoodbeneath thetwinkling marquee of TheState TheatreonCongressAvenue.Insidethevenue,theAustinFilm Societyhad partneredwithdatingapp Bumbletopresent a screeningof Zurawski v. Texas a documentary that follows threewomen whosuedthe stateofTexas afterbeing denied urgentemergencycareduetothestate’snewabortionlaws.The guardsprovidedasoberingreminderthatdiscussingtheissue comeswithseriousstakes,especiallyinTexas

Adocumentaryfilmscreeningaboutabortionaccessmight seem like an oddplace fora dating appbrand to make an appearance,but it helpstoexplain thenew paradigmsBumble hasfound itself navigating lately.A decade sincethe app’sinception, theculturallandscape forwomen andfeminismhas shifted,techhasevolveddramatically,anddatingconventions havebeenupended.Bumbleexistsattheintersectionofthree domainsthathavebeentransformedcompletelysincetheapp’s launch.Asaresult,thecompanyhasundertakensomeserious soulsearching.

Over thepastyear, theapp sometimesknown as “feminist Tinder”hasrolledoutaslewofnewfeaturesandmarketingefforts Theyenlistedtheinternet’scrush,BarryKeoghan,todoashirtlessValentine’sDayad.LidianeJones,formerCEOofSlack,took over as CEO, as founderWhitney WolfeHerdstepped into the roleofExecutiveChair.Andthat’sjustthebeginning

Traditionally, Bumble hasbeena placefor singlestomeet, butthecompany’sevolutionssuggestareadiness toexpanditsfocusbeyondplayingmatchmaker. That makessense in aworld wherelingering cabinfeverfromthepandemicandgeneralennui around theinternethas ledsingles to join speed-datingeventsandflocktorunclubstofind TheOne.Bumble’smodelhasalwaysusedtechto centerthedesiresandconcernsofwomen,which in thecurrent era—meansa more substantial overhaulofthegenderexpectations,community, andpoliticsthatunderpinromanticrelationships

ButtoreallyunderstandBumble’s“better feminism throughtechnology” ethos, youhave togobacktothestart

WolfeHerdw dating appTin sortingwitha in2012,andWolfeHerdresignedfromherroleasVice PresidentofMarketing just twoyears later, citing sexualharassmentbyco-founderJustinMateen, with whom shehad endeda romantic relationship.She partneredwithRussianbillionaireandtechentrepreneur Andrey Andreevfor anew venture. WolfeHerd envisionedanappexclusivelyforwomenandoriginally floateda conceptthatallowed userstogiveeach othercompliments.But Andreevencouragedher to entertheonlinedatingspace,soshelaunchedBumble inDecember2014

Theappborrowedthesameswipeanddoubleoptin format from Tinder butdistinguished itself by limitingmessagingsoonlyfemaleuserscouldinitiate conversations. WolfeHerdpositionedthisfunctionalityas“feminist,”claimingitofferedanempowering degreeofagencywhilehopefullyreducingharassment andunsoliciteddickpics.

It’shardtounderstandBumblewithoutTinder—it wasalwayscreated in response to theother app. They aretetheredbytheirsharedswipingfunctionalityand theirintertwinedoriginstories.Theyexistasadialectic:TindersleazeandBumblegirlpower

Before WolfeHerdfounded Bumble,dynamicson digitaldatingplatformsmoreorlessalignedwithIRL gender roles. “Whitney’s idea wasto flip allofthaton itsheadandcreateaplacewherewomenmadethefirst move,withthehypothesisthatitwouldleadtokinder andmorerespectfulinteractions,”saysLucilleMcCart, Bumble’sdirectorofcorporatecommunications.

Tenyearsremovedfromthatgenesis,themoment ismoreurgent,andit’snotenoughtojusthavewomen asthefocusoftheapp.Ifyoupeekbehindthecurtain, it’sclearthatabevyofreal-lifesocialissuesareintrin-

Bumble hostsapanel discussion with Amanda Zurawski, aplantiff in a legal case involving abortion access

sicallylinkedtowomen’sdissatisfactionwithdating— and,byextension,datingappsthemselves

FortheAustin-basedtechcompany,theabortion fighthasgottenpersonal;itreportsthatnearlyathird of staff were driven outofthe statebySenateBill8, whichsaddled Texaswithone of theharshest anti-abortionlawsinthe country. In addition to sponsoringthefilmscreenings,Bumblewasthefirst corporatesigneeonanamicusbrief supporting the plaintiff’smodestrequest.Theywantthe stateof Texastoprovide clarityonwhatconstitutes alegal, life-savingabortion—whichthe lawtheoretically allows forbut failstodefine

Afterthe screening, Bumble’s chieflegal officer, ElizabethMonteleone, joined apanel of filmmakers andplaintiffsonstage.She remarked on howitwas unusual, as acorporate lawyer,tobeworking on an amicusbriefforacaselikeZurawskiv.Texas,weighing inasaninterestedpartyonasuitthathadthepotentialtoshapepublicpolicy.

Butit’snotthefirsttimeBumblehasdippeditstoe into direct action.Since 2022,the companyendorsed laws designed to penalize “cyberflashing,” thesending ofexplicitphotostostrangersonline,andcutdownon onlinesexualharassment.Suchmeasureshavealready passedinthreeU.S.states,includingTexas

Now, they’rebacking thefederal CONSENTAct (Curbing Online Non-consensual Sexually Explicit NudityTransfers),whichwouldgivevictimslegalrecourse throughoutthecountry.But,theConsentActis,notably, bipartisan.Withthe Zurawski case,Bumbleisputting its finger on thescale fora farmoredivisiveissue and throwingitsweightbehindimprovingthedatingexperiencebeyondtheapps.

Itmightseemlikeanunusualmoveforacorporate brand,butBumblehasdoneanexcellentjobreadingthe room.Realityforwomen,particularlyforthoseinTexas, feelsbleakrightnow.Themarketable,optimisticfeminism of2014islonggone,andBumbleispivotingawayfrom consumerism-friendlyGirlbossfeminismtowardamore overtadvocacythatresonates better with contemporary—andparticularly—youngerusers.

WhichpresentsBumble’smost puzzling contradiction: Thebrand itselfisstrong.However,theproduct is encumbered by thestructural problemsofnotonlydatingappsin general,butalsoamuchlargersocial construct.Andchangingthatmeans reckoningwithawholenewswarm ofproblems

Goodbye, Girlboss

“Iftherewasadatingappthatattracts womenthe most,itwas,atleast initially,Bumble,”explainsEllynBriggs, abrand analystand digitalmedia expertforsurveyresearchcompanyMorningConsult.“But,in thelastfewyears,theconversationhasbeenaboutwomenfeelingburntoutandtiredofdating.So,whereBumblemighthave beenpositionedreallywellintheearly2010Girlbossera,they’re nowinsortofalessthandesirableposition.”

Today,the“womenmessagefirst”conceptreadslikejustone moreplacethattheymustassumetheemotionallaboroftheir relationships. Womendon’t necessarilywanttomessage first; theyjustdon’twanttheirinboxfloodedwithdickpics.Theentire structureofthe appfeels less matchedtothe feminism of the presentmoment.

Andthatmismatchisplaying outindollarsigns.Bumble reportedmodestgrowthof3%inthesecondquarterof2024, shortlyafterlayingoff37%ofitsstaffinFebruary.Itsstockprice hastumbled by more than 50%thisyear. To be fair,Bumble isn’talone.SinceMatchGroup(whichownsMatch.com,Tinder, andHinge)stockpeakedaround$160persharein2021,ithas fallenaround77%.Inshort,thebusinessprospectsfordating appsareaboutaslowasthey’veeverbeen

“It’swomen,acrosstheboard,thatseemtohavethepoorest perceptionofdatingapps,”saysBriggs.Womenasawholerate theiroutlook on dating andthe dating apps as bleakerthan men,GenZ,orU.S.adultsoverall

Inpart,Briggsblamesthealgorithms,whichtendtoamplify theworst dating horror stories, oftenalong gendered lines. This summer,jokes aboutgoing “boysober” or “celibate” hita kindofterminalvelocity.JuliaFoxsaidshe’sswornoffmen.On TikTok,anonslaughtofvideosfeaturedtearfulwomenrecountingtheirdatinghorrorstoriesandcapturedjusthowburntout ondatingtheyare.Whendatingstoriesgoviral,theyarereflectingsomethingauthentic,butthey’realsolikelymakingeveryone morecynicalaboutdatingorfindingapartner.

“Obviously thedatingappscan’t police forthat. It’s not somethingtheycansolvefor,sotospeak,”Briggssays.It’shard tomarketadatingappwhenpeoplearefeelingnegativeabout datingoverall.

In April, Bumble rolled outan“anti-celibacy” marketing campaign,promoting television commercialsand billboards with taglines like“Youknowfullwella vowofcelibacyisnot theanswer”and“Thoushaltnotgiveupondatingandbecome anun.”Itwasanattempttoengagewiththebroaderconversationaboutdatingandhook-upculture

Bumble’sheadquarters in North Austin were designed by local firms Mark Odom Studio and JEI Design.

Thebacklashwasswift.

OnTikTok,userschastisedthe companyfor treating theirconcernssolightly.“Voluntarycelibacy”isadeeplyreasonableresponse, they argued,toendless emotional labor, rampantsexualassault and harassment,andnarrowingreproductiverights.

Bumblewalkedbacktheadsand apologized.Briggscalls thecampaign“aswingandamiss.”

Missteps aside, Bumble has workedhardtorespondtowomen’s concerns throughout itstenure. Mostoftheirproductdevelopment hasfocused on features that safeguardinteractionswithinthe app. In many ways,the company’slegacyhas been addressing the pain points of theshiny newmobile-firstformatTinderhad introduced

“Wedesignand buildall ourproductsthrough awomen’s lens,”explainsBumble’schieflegalofficer,ElizabethMonteleone. “Our belief is that when youmaketechnologybetterfor women,youmakeitbetterforeveryone.”

“Iabsolutelyboughtintothe‘Mychanceswillbebetterbecause they will feel safe’spirit,”saysRichard,a 32-year-oldmusician whoplacesthelikelihoodofmeetinghispartnersansBumble atlessthan10%.He’scharmingandintrospective,quicktoadmit thathetreatedtheappsasaneasysourceofvalidation.“Ican’t tellifthat’shealthyandreasonableorwildlypredatory,”headds.

In2016,BumbleintroducedPhotoVerificationtocutdown oncatfishing.FollowedbyPrivateDetector,in2019,whichused artificialintelligencetoautomaticallyblurunsolicitednudes. Thisyear,theylaunchedDeceptionDetector,designedtofilter outspammyfakeprofilesandscams.

In 2021,a TIME profile observed that Bumble is the first majorsocialplatformtomakecontent moderation centralto itsbusinessandakeypartofitsvalueproposition.Manyofthe app’sbehavioralguardrailsare automated, blocking usersfor cyberflashingorharassment.Morerecently,Bumbleupdated itscommunityguidelinestoincludeghostingandno-showing asabusiveconduct

In 2023 alone, thecompany reportsblockingmorethan 8.2millionaccountsacrossBumbleandsisterappBadoo.Most of that detectionand removalhas been done by automated systems. “Wewould have blockedDonaldTrump yearsago if he used ourproduct,” WolfeHerdtold TIME in March2021. Theformerpresident hadbeenbootedoff Twitteronlytwo monthsbefore,akindofhigh-watermarkforregulatedspeech onsocialplatforms.

“ThepremiseofappslikeBumble—tagline:‘We’rechanging therulesofthegame’—impliesthatanappcanchangehumans, theoneswho make that game,” Kate Drieswrote for Jezebel, whenthecompanywasfirstannouncedin2014

Here,webumpupagainstthefundamentalproblem:women want amoreequitable dating experience overall,which is somethinga smartphone appalone can’tdeliver.So, how

does adatingapp,evena feminist dating app, escape thestructuralmisogynyofitsmoment?Canit?

ThisisperhapsthefalsepromiseofGirlbossfeminism:thatindividualscanmaneuvertobetterfutures within theconfinesofthe system as it exists.Wolfe Herdhasoftenbeencharacterizedasabrandinggenius, butthepowerdynamicsofmoderndatingare,unfortunately,not abrandingproblem.Since Bumble first promised abetterdatingexperiencefor women, the scopeofthatprojecthasballooned.Theapphaslived throughGamergate,aTrumppresidency,andthefall ofRoev.Wade.

Understandingcontent moderation as an actof feminismrequiresviewingtheinternetasaninherentlyhostileplacetowomen.Buttheinternetisjust people;it’shostiletowomeninthewaystheworldat largeishostiletowomen.That’salotforasmartphone applicationtotackle.However,itdoesn’tnecessarily have to solvethose problems—simplytakingthem oncouldbeawaytoenergizenewpatronsandtransformBumblefromanappintoamorewell-rounded lifestylebrand

SwipingLeft

Asifstrugglingagainstentrenchedsocialstructures wasn’t impossible enough,Bumblefaces atechecosystem that’s both accelerating andcollapsing. Even as we’repromisedthatAIisheretosolve allofour problems,socialmediaplatformsfeellessfunctional than ever.“Areweall matching with bots on dating appsnow?”queriedoneCosmoheadlinelastMay.

More than ever,users,particularlyyounger ones, arestartingtoask questionsabout what’s underthe hoodofthetechplatformswheretheyconductmuch of theirlives.It’spartially digitalfatigue;17years after theiPhonedebuted,thenoveltyoftechiswearingthin, andsuddenlytheIRLworldhasanewsheentoit

There’salsoa distrust of themotives drivingbig businesses.And,despitearockyfinancialyear,Bum-

Bumble founderand longtime leader Whitney WolfeHerd(left), and newCEO Lidiane Jones.

blehasbecomeabigbusiness.Its2021IPOmadeWolfe Herd theyoungestself-made womanbillionaire in history. As of September, thecompany is valued at $1.12billion,makingitroughly21%ofthe$5.34billion globalonlinedatingindustry

Massive financialstakeshavemeant alot more scrutinyonthebusinessmodelsunderpinningdating apps.Earlierthisyear,bianca(@infinitebs)releaseda TikTokvideoessaypointingtowhatsheseesasafundamentalcontradictionbetweenthedual-statedgoals ofdatingapps:matchmakingandmoneymaking.Like manyoftheGenZusersnowondatingapps,sheopens by explaining that shewas tooyoung forthe early, almost halcyon, user experience on Tinder—back beforeithad“grossvibes.”

“You can’tdrive growth andretainyoursterling commitmenttosetpeopleupwithlifepartnersatthe sametime,”shesays,arguingthatanendlesslyexpandinguserbaseinevitablydilutestheeligibledatingpool forusersseekingcommittedrelationships.Thesedays, shecontends,datingappsareincentivizedtoputthe mostcompatiblepotentialpartnersbehindapaywall andhopeusersstaysingleandswi

Thevideowentviral.

In 2015,aniconicNancy Jo Sa hailed Tinder andswiping as the apocalypse.”Tenyearson,thatapoc hasarrivedintheformofanunend ingriggedgameatthecasino—the housejustkeepswinning

ping lesarticle “dating alypse

That is more or less thelife cycleofenshittification,where an appthrills userstohookthemand thengraduallydepreciatesthequalit oftheexperiencetoprioritizereven qualityofBumble’sfreeexperience has unques tionablydegraded

Bumble wasfounded in techno-optimism, thebeliefthattech cangentlyreshape societyfor thebetter.

WhenWolfeHerdtookthecompanypublicin2021,shedid sowithapromiseto“tryandmaketheinternetakinder,more accountableplace,”especiallyforwomen.But,10yearsafterits debut,itfeelshardertobelievethatanappcanfundamentally reshapehuman behavior so much as humanbehaviorseems likelytofundamentallyreshapetheapp.WhileBumbleaspires toimprovethecultureviaaswipeableformat,it’spossiblethat swipingitselfmight foster unkindness.Thisisa common concern—thatdatingappstrainustoseepeopleasdisposable, interchangeablecommodities

Bumble wasfounded in techno-optimism, thebeliefthat tech cangentlyreshape societyfor thebetter. With recent changes, thebrand is signalinga newwillingnesstorespond tothestrugglesanddesiresofitsuserbaseandofferfixesthat gobeyondamodifiedversionofTinder.

“Ifyou’renot paying forthe product, youare the product,”saidTristanHarris,aformerdesignethicist at Google andco-founderofthe Center forHumane Technology,in2020NetflixdocumentaryTheSocial Dilemma.Thephrasebecameakindofmodernadage forunderstandingthehiddencostsofseeminglyfree digitalservices.

InMay2024,thecompanyannounced“Opening Moves,”afeaturewhichletsmensendthefirstmessage byrespondingtoapre-setprompt.Theloopholestill allows women to setthe parameters of an interaction, andBumbleclaimsthefeatureproducedhigher replyratesandlongerconversationsintesting. At firstblush,itmight look likethe companyisforsakingitsfoundationalvalues. Foryears,Bumbleclungtothe“womenmessagefirst”modelasthefeaturethatdistinguishedit from Tinder.Thatoriginalfunctionality arosefroma commitment to centeringand empowering women. In today’sworld,thatmeans puttingsomeofthe onus back onmen Inadjustingtheparametersoftheapp—andrespondingtothechangingneedsofitsusers—Bumbleseemswilling tolisten,andtomovethecompanyinanewdirection.

In July,BumbleInc.acquiredGeneva, asocialnetworking platformthatemphasizesfriendshipandcommunitybuilding UnlikeBumble—oritssisterapp,Badoo—Genevaadvertisesan explicitlyplatonicexperience.Thecompanyalsorecentlyspun itsBumbleBFF feature, whichallowed userstoswipe forplatonicfriendships,intoastandaloneapp called Bumble For Friends. Both movessuggest that thebrand is diversifying its portfolio,respondingtouserswhoincreasinglysaytheywant todatemoreorganically,asanoutgrowthoftheircommunities, andlesswithinthefabricatedparametersoftheapps.

Thatmovealignswiththerecenttrendtowardallthoserun clubsand singlesevents. Anditalsoharkens back to Wolfe Herd’s original vision forthe brand, whichsuddenlyseems wildlyprescient:aplatformwherewomencangivecompliments tootherwomen

Bumble strikesanodd balancesince humans,or humanconnection,istheexplicitlyprofferedproduct, andmanyusers do payfor subscriptions. People are boththecommodityandthebuyer.Lastyear,PewReportsindicated that about35% of online daters have paidtouseatleastoneoftheapps.Andthosesubscriptionsaren’tcheap;BumblePremiumwillrunyouabout $40permonth—enoughforroughly10breakfasttacos Like Tinder,Bumbleearns themajorityofits revenue from premiumsubscriptions andin-apppurchases.And,likeTinder, itsuserbaseismostlymale. Thoughitsnumbersareslightlymorebalancedthan otherdigital dating options, thereare stillroughly threemenonBumbleforeverywoman.Additionally, menmakeupthemajorityofpayingusers,evenwhile Bumble’smarketingislargelyaimedatwomen

Tinderhasneveroutgrownitsdatingapporigins,butBumblemight.The companyislooking to find anew path forward. WiththeZurawskicase,it’ssignalingawillingnesstogobeyond thesoftwareandengagewithreal-lifepoliticalandsocialconditionsofwomen’slives.Abetterdatingexperienceisaproject thatextendsbeyondtheboundsofanapp.AndBumbleiseager totakeflight

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BleatingHeart

WEIGHINGLESSTHANanounce,the golden-cheeked warblerhas apleasant littletrillofavoice—which,itturnsout, issimplynomatchforthebrashcrowing of aTexas billionaire. During hisfirst presidential candidacyin1992, H. Ross Perotwantedtodevelopretailandoffice spaceonaplotoflandheownednearthe intersection of FM 620and RM 2222 southeastofLakeTravis.

Unfortunatelyfor thetechtycoon, theU.S.Fishand Wildlife Servicewas planning to list thegolden-cheeked warblerasendangeredunder theEndangeredSpeciesActsoonduetothreats of habitatlossand degradation. The birdsrelyspecificallyonthe dastardly ashe juniper(thecolloquiallydubbed “cedar”thatplaguesourallergies)tolay theireggs.

If Perotwaitedfor apermittoclear land,the warblers’protected status mightbe finalized, anditwould be too latetorazethetreesforthedevelopment. Evenashiscampaignprofessedtocater tothe“littleguy,”theselittlebirdswere

Howathird-party presidentialcandidatewith landinWestAustinbought aherdofgoatstoskirt environmentallaw

obstructinghis profits,and he wasn’t abouttoletenvironmentalregulations stop him. Themogul andhis cronies hatchedaningenious plan:buy aherd of goats. That mightsound odd, butin Texas,certainpermitscanbewaivedto clearlandforranchingorfarming.With hisnewwoolyfriendson-site,Perotwas readytofleecelocal officialswithan agriculturalexemption,andtheclearing commenced.

When Sesame Street parodied the politicianasaparrotin1993,perhapsit

wouldhavebeenmoreappropriate to portrayhim as acowbird,the stocky creaturesknowntorobwarblernests.“If thepeopleofAustinwantthatlandasa park or abirdsanctuary,I will be happy to sell it to them forwhatI have in the property,”PerottoldTheDallasMorning News in a1990statement that sounds almost tooeviltobedelivered by acartoonvillain.

Eventoday,concernaboutthehabitats ofgolden-cheekedwarblerspersists.“[It is]theonlybirdwhosebreedingrangeis exclusivelywithinthe stateofTexas,” Sharmeen Morrison,anattorneyat Earthjustice,toldKXANlastmonth.“By theendofthisdecade,thehumanpopulationwithinthe warblers’breeding rangewillhaveincreased by 89%since thetimeoflistingin1990.”

Howeversmall,Perotandhisrecruited ranchanimals played apartinthat trend. Exploiting legalloopholes is nothingnewforshrewdpoliticians,but ittookaWashingtonoutsiderfromTexastofindtheperfectscapegoat.

AMBERVAZQUEZ

BoardCertified Criminal DefenseAttorney

AmberVazquezhas been Fighting theHardest Casesin theToughestPlacesfor Over 20 Years. A fifth-generation Texanreferredtoasthe “Queen of Acquittals”in

TexasMonthly Magazine.

AmberVazquezisa BoardCertified criminaldefense attorney whohas wontrialsfor Murder,Attempted CapitalMurder, Aggravated Assault, Sexual Assaultofa Child, Burglary of aHabitation, Thefts, AssaultFamily Violence,DrugPossession, andmanyDUI cases.

Amber’s success rate acrossthe boardmakes herone of themostsought-after defense attorneysinthe state. In addition to winning aCriminal Justice Awardfrom Travis County Women’sBar,Amber hasbeennamed aSuper Lawyer in TexasLawyer, highlighted as TopCriminal DefenseAttorney2019 by the Austin BarAssociation, andnamed oneofTexas’Top 20 “Winning Women” Amberteaches criminal defenseattorneys as well as servingon thePoliceOversight andJudicialCommittee forthe City of Austin.

Amber Vazquez LawFirm, PLLC

608 W. 12th St. Austin Texas 78701

512-220-8507

amber@criminallawaustin.com www.criminallawaustin.com

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