July 2020
Free Your Summer Guide to Southwest Minnesota!
This month’s Sailor features an inside look at Tracy’s Wheels Across the Prairie Museum and the Lyon County Historical Society Museum. Photo / Trina Thomas
Published by Above the Fold Publishing LLC • 207 4th Street • Tracy, MN 56175 • (507) 629-4300 • www.swmnsailor.com
2 – Southwest Sailor, July 2020
The Schwan Cafe inside the Lyon County Museum in downtown Marshall. Photos / Trina Thomas
From catalog to mail-order Lyon County Museum’s retail exhibit displays clothing items from Post-World War II E-Commerce is such a hot commodity in today’s world. Platforms, such as eBay, Poshmark, Amazon, and Mercari make it easy for consumers to get products they need without having to ever step foot in a store. It hasn’t always been as easy as utilizing these platforms on the internet to purchase goods, and the Lyon County Museum in downtown Marshall greets visitors with an exhibit showing how the retail industry has progressed over the years. One way the industry has advanced is through mail-ordering. Mail-ordering is purchasing goods or services from a catalog via telephone, internet, or mailing in a form and then
by Trina Thomas
Special to the Sailor
New ! ListiNg
OLSON & LOWE, a Marshall clothing store established in 1947, is featured at the museum. Below, women’s garb during and after WWII.
New ! ListiNg
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deliver products allowed Pryce-Jones’ business to grow, resulting in a favorable outcome of mail-order. The mail-order diligence changed the world, especially when events similar to COVID-19 restrict business owners from keeping their doors open. Countless merchants have had to resort to online sales in order for their business to stay afloat. For the Lyon County Historical Society Museum which displays the struggle of business owners in history, they have finally re-opened from their own COVID-19 closure. When speaking with the Executive Director of the museum,
Lyon County
continued on page 3
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getting that order delivered. Catalogs were created in 1667 by an English gardener named William Lucas. Lucas wanted to mail a list of his inventory of seeds to consumers to keep them up to date on what his prices were. It wasn’t until a Welsh man named Pryce Pryce-Jones came along that mailorder went hand in hand with catalogs. Pryce-Jones had a flannel business and many of his consumers were in rural areas and unable to get to a city often to shop. Due to this setback, Pryce-Jones made a decision to utilize the railways to dispatch his goods. Rural consumers would then collect their packages at a railroad stop close to their home. Incorporating the use of railroads to
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Southwest Sailor, July 2020 – 3
The second-floor exhibit gallery at the Lyon County Museum features history from Post-World War I to today. Photos / Trina Thomas
Lyon County Continued from page 2
or two is to change this exhibit.” Considering all of the fluctuation taking place at the Lyon County Historical Society Museum, now just might be a great time for readers to visit. If you do, expect to leave with a wealth of knowledge and a stomach full of
Schwan’s ice cream from the parlor at the end of your tour. References http://www.bbc.co.uk/ahistoryoftheworld/objects/ HADPDl08QUGVNkTqh9nEeg https://dingley.com/five-pivotal-moments-incatalog-history/
Cold Drinks • Fries • Burgers • Wraps • Steaks Salads • Appetizers and much more! THE LYON COUNTY MUSEUM is home to a number of artifacts from the time when World War I ended and solders were welcomed home. Photo / Trina Thomas
Jennifer Andries, the earliest they were able to open was June 10. Instead of an immediate opening to the public, museum officials decided to wait until the end of the month due to some renovations on a second-floor exhibit gallery that are expected to be finalized soon. “The second-floor exhibit gallery, “Making Lyon County Home,” will feature history from post-World War II to today, so it features more contemporary history up there.” Andries continued to give a voice for the second-floor exhibit by saying, “We are the county museum and we’re working on doing a better job of telling the stories and showing artifacts from all of our communities in Lyon County. I think for a while we had a lot more emphasis on just Marshall so we are trying to make sure we’re telling
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everybody’s stories there.” In addition to the second-floor revamping, Andries introduced that they have several other displays in progress, such as a railroad display located in their downstairs level and a temporary display of local business items to commemorate Lyon County’s 150th anniversary this summer. When asked if there will be any changes to the retail exhibit, she mentioned that it has been up since 2016. She continued, “Our plan in the next year
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Shetek holds colorful history 4 – Southwest Sailor, July 2020
Columnist finds first mention of lake group
From Above The Fold: It is our honor to once again be bringing our readers in the region the writings of the late Bill Bolin, an iconic and beloved historian, educator and coach in Tracy for many decades. Bolin passed away October 15, 2017, and he is missed by so many to this day. Bill started writing for the Sailor in 1997 in hopes of passing down many of his experiences, especially to his children, grandchildren and the many students he encountered in Tracy Area High School from his student teaching in 1956-57 until his final retirement in 2010. The Tracy Area Headlight Herald, with permission from Bill’s family, is reproducing his popular columns in this edition of the Sailor, as well as in editions yet to come:
The earliest evidence I’ve found that actually makes written reference to Lake Shetek is found in the 1838 diary of Joseph Nicollet. Nicollet, many will recall, was sponsored by the U.S. government to lead an expedition of exploration into the triangle of land lying between the Missouri and Mississippi River. This took Nicollet from Fort Snelling up the St. Peter’s River (now Minnesota River) as far as Traverse des Sioux and hence westward across Minnesota to the Coteau des Prairies. Translated from French to English in 1976 by Edmond and Martha Bray and published by the Minnesota Historical Society Press the diary notes resulted in the book: On The Plains and Prairies. In this book Nicollet
History Is Life Bill Bolin writes the following: “Saturday, June 23, 1838: Toward 1:00 we saw in the distance a clump of trees that indicated our approach to a group of lakes the Dakota named Mderbabetchi (lake where the pelicans make their nests) and the voyageurs call Lacs Chetek (Lake Shetek group) from the Chippewa word shede and shedeg in the plural which also means pelican.” We generally refer to the Lake Shetek group as including Lakes Shetek, Smith, Bloody, Fox, Fremont and Armstrong Bay. The book footnotes also include Sarah, Maria, Clear, Round, Francis Siegel, Willow and Robbins Marsh in the group. There were, of course, other whites before Nicollet in the southwest Minnesota area. They were Franquilen, DeLisle, LeSueur, Long, Catlin, Featherstonhaugh, Prescott and perhaps others. To my knowledge, however, Nicollet on June 23, 1838 was the first to express “Shetek” in his writings. I once saw an early map of this area and recall that the Shetek group was labeled “Lake of the Oaks”, but I’ve been unable to locate this source again and have no accurate date or the cartographer.
An aerial picture of Valhalla Island.
On June 24, 1838 Nicollet makes this interesting observation at Lake Shetek, one that Murray County Realtors would well memorize today. “One circumstance has struck us on arriving here at the middle of this group of lakes, in the midst of woods and excellent land where all the conditions of a healthy climate, moderate and steady, exist to a greater degree than anywhere else in the northwest of the United States.” What a testimony! History buffs like me are intrigued by events of the following day, June 25, 1838, 160 years ago this month. Nicollet’s partner in the expedition,
John Charles Fremont and their guide through southwest Minnesota, Joseph Laframboise, have an interesting experience at Shetek. Nicollet’s notes: “Messrs. Fremont and Laframboise did not return until 9:00 in the evening. I was uneasy about them. An accident had befallen them in crossing la riviere des Moines. They found a muddy bottom, the water chest deep. The wagon became mired. They attempted to push the wheels, but Mr. Fremont who had just eaten had a cramp because of
HistorY
continued on page 5
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Southwest Sailor, July 2020 – 5
History Continued from page 4
the water. He lost consciousness and just missed drowning. They returned exhausted.” Fremont survives this possible drowning at Lake Shetek and goes on to become a military hero in the Mexican War. He was instrumental in the establishment of the California “Bear Flag Republic” and his western exploration earned him the label “Pathfinder of the West”. He had a television mini-series based on his exploits. He became the Republican party’s, as we know it today, first candidate for president of the United States in 1856. He lost. In 1860 the Republican candidate Abraham Lincoln won. I often reflect on this when I use the words Lake Fremont or Lake Benton, as they were both named in the following days. Fremont in honor of himself and Benton either for his wife, Jessie Benton or father-in-law, Thomas Hart Benton, the famous United States senator from Missouri. On June 27, 1838 Nicollet writes: “On leaving the lakes, we climb a conical hill which crowns the crest of the nearest elevation. It is a hill which has served and still serves as a cemetery for the Sioux who die while camping at the lakes.” “From the summit of the hill of the dead, of which I have just spoken, if one casts a glance over the group of lakes, one sees that they occupy the bottom of a beautiful and large basin formed by the heights which follow different directions and pass, one in front of the other, at different distances depending on the point of view giving this basin the appearance of a great circular amphitheater.” Enough of Nicollet’s observations, but who amongst us does not yearn to have been with him at Lake Shetek 160 years ago? Obviously the most profound history relating to Lake Shetek was the Dakota Conflict of August 1862. On August 20 many of Shetek’s first white settlers were killed as the Dakota sought to remove white settlement from southwest Minnesota. It was their last effort to regain the land lost in the disastrous treaties of Traverse des Sioux in 1851 and Mendota in 1858. Next summer in the Sailor I hope to highlight the life and struggle of four of these families. Feike Feikema, whose pen name was Frederick Manfred, wrote Scarlet Plume, a work of historical fiction, which creates the mythical lake Skywater for Shetek and Judith Raveling for Mrs. Mariah Koch. I recall Manfred sitting on the steps of the Koch cabin and relating tidbits of his new book at the 100th Centennial of the Shetek Uprising. He attended the observance to ‘get the feel of the locale’. Lavina Eastlick, a survivor of those tragic times, tells her story in a pamphlet still available and John Silvernale produced a nice booklet for the 100th Anniversary for the Murray County Historical Society. 1924 was a memorable year for Shetek, in that the current Currie Dam and levee and the Beaver Creek diversion channel were initiated. It was not without controversy over high water and construction methods. In the August 12, 1886 Southwest Minnesotan newspaper published in Currie I see the line – “Shetek is the lowest since dam was built in 1872.” I know little to nothing about this earlier dam but expect it had something to do with the mill and mill pond in Currie. By the way, how many readers know that in 1902 the vote taken
to change the name of Currie to Shetek failed by a vote of 53-28? The second big event at Shetek in 1924 was the final construction and dedication of the Shetek monument. The 36 ton edifice built at a cost of $1,700 was to honor those who died here during the Dakota Conflict. Newspaper reports give conflicting accounts of the number present, even those in attendance that I’ve talked to vary in attendance figures. All agree however that the crowd was huge and Minnesota Governor Theodore Christiansen was one of the principal speakers. Later reports indicate that one of the primary factors in the establishment of Lake Shetek State Park was the preservation of historical sites. In 1997 the DNR’s division of Parks and Recreation still carries the legislative mandate to “manage cultural resources for present and future generations Causeways connect several islands in Lake Shetek.
See what Tracy has to offer…
History
continued on page 6
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6 – Southwest Sailor, July 2020
History Continued from page 5
and provide interpretive and educational opportunities for visitors.” Some of my earliest memories of Shetek involve hunting and fishing (Loon Island and Lone Tree areas were always good places), boating, swimming, carnivals at Valhalla and Tepeeotah and especially chasing foul balls at baseball games in the magnificent, in those times, ball parks at Valhalla and Tepeeotah. What are yours? I’d love to hear Shetek stories and they can be sent to me at the Tracy Headlight-Herald. Those older than I no doubt think of Oscar Beal, “Mr. Lake Shetek”, when they recall early events at the lake. Oscar was owner and manager of the Valhalla Resort from 1916-1967 and his “battles of the bands” is legend. His greatest feat was said to be the floating “Whiskey Barrel Bridge” which brought people to the island until the bridge sunk in 1934. Oscar Beal sold his Keeley Island land to the state, which housed WPA workers. It is now the Shetek Lutheran Bible Camp. In my lifetime I’ve enjoyed hearing stories of Lake Shetek from people such as Charles Berdan, Cliff Mason, Clyde and Fay Robbins, Evelyn (Daniels) Swanjord and her brothers, Tup Wettestad and Shing Engebretson. The Workman, Johnston, Rignell, Fritz, Sweetman, LeClaire, Surprenant, Shoeman, Stone, Frisvold and Silvernale families have shared a wealth
of information and, of course, there are many others out there that I have forgotten or failed to mention that have spent a lifetime in the Shetek area. No doubt, Lake Shetek has a rich past, exciting present and promising future – if, all of us are willing to do what is necessary to protect the resource and take care that we do not love the lake to death. With today’s concentration of people at Lake Shetek, the advent of snowmobiles, jet skis, aeration systems, more boats that are larger with more powerful motors, excursion cruises, increased camping, swimming, hiking, biking, fishing (both summer and winter) etc., we must all reflect on the dangers inherent with these activities. As early as 1881 Shetek was claiming victims by drowning. That year young Lars Knudtson and his cousin, Joe Frisvold became the first to be buried in Modum Cemetery, just west across Highway #59 from the Lake Sarah Baptist Church. According to Clifton Frisvold, who was told of the incident by his grandmother, the boys were crossing the inlet with a horse and wagon box near the present Dick and Jan Mickelson cottage when the wagon tipped. One boy attempted to rescue the other and both drowned.
Send us your fishing & hunting photos – email info@swmnsailor.com
Jack Pulford, age 8 from Brandon, SD. He caught a 27 3/4”, 7.2 lb walleye on Lake Shetek on June 27.
Area pools now open for summer A number of area towns opened their swimming pools this summer, despite the pandemic (some area pools remain closed for the summer of 2020). Below are hours and phone numbers to assist you in finding a place to swim this summer:
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• Lamberton: Hours are 1-5 p.m. Monday-Friday and 1-7 p.m. SaturdaySunday (507-752-7099) • Montevideo: Sessions are 11 a.m.-1 p.m., 1:30 p.m.-3:30 p.m. and 4-6 p.m. (320-269-2125) • New Ulm: Hours fluctuate (call 507359-8347) • Sleepy Eye: The pool is open (507794-9501) • Redwood Falls: Monday-Thursday 2-4:40 p.m., 6:30-8 p.m.; 1:30-7 p.m. Friday; 1:30-6 p.m. Saturday-Sunday (507-616-7444) • Slayton (pool open to Murray County residents only): 1-5 p.m.; 6:30-8 p.m.; 1-6 p.m. (Saturday-Sunday) • Fulda: 1-4 p.m. Saturday-Sunday (507-425-2427) • Luverne: 507-449-5036 • Worthington: 3-7 p.m. MondayFriday, 1-4:30 p.m. Saturday (507-3766197) • Marshall: Noon-4:45 p.m. MondaySunday (507-537-6767) • Minneota: (507-872-5137) • Canby: (507-223-5379) • Tyler: (507-247-5518) • Westbrook: Monday-Sunday 1-5 p.m. and 6:30-8:30 p.m. (507-274-5539) (Pools in Tracy and Springfield are closed for the summer because of COVID-19)
Southwest Sailor, July 2020 – 7
Jeffers Petroglyphs. Photo / www.mnhs.org/jefferspetroglyphs
Split Rock Lighthouse, Jeffers Petroglyphs open July 15 Other MNHS historic sites and museums remain closed In light of the governor’s lifting of restrictions regarding museums and outdoor spaces, Split Rock Lighthouse and Jeffers Petroglyphs will once again be open for visitors, beginning July 15. Birch Coulee Battlefield, Traverse des Sioux, and Marine Mill outdoor trails are already open to the public. With the health and safety of guests, staff and the community at the forefront of decision-making, MNHS feels it is safe to reopen Split Rock Lighthouse and Jeffers Petroglyphs because
they offer predominately outdoor experiences. New protocols designed to minimize the risk of spreading COVID-19 can be viewed on the health and safety procedures page of each website. Split Rock Lighthouse will be open seven days a week. Guests can purchase a timed entry ticket for $8 online or inside the visitor center. Other indoor spaces, including the lighthouse and keeper’s residence, will remain closed. A pop-up store will be set up outside so guests can shop for their favorite Split Rock Lighthouse items. For more information visit www.mnhs.org/ splitrocklighthouse. Jeffers Petroglyphs will be open Thursday through Sunday. Guests can purchase entry tickets for $8 online
or inside the visitor center. For more information visit www.mnhs.org/ jefferspetroglyphs. MNHS is limiting the number of daily visitors at each site. Tickets can be purchased up to one month in advance online or through the box office at 651-259-3015. Tickets went on sale July 8. MNHS decisions about its remaining sites will be based on several factors: current state rules for reopening indoor venues, requirements for cleaning, social distancing, and limiting capacity, as well as the financial cost of operating the site. In the meantime, these remaining sites will remain temporarily closed past the June 30 date that was announced in April. MNHS staffing decisions
In order to support the reopening of sites and other initiatives, MNHS is recalling 64 staff, while making the difficult decision to extend furloughs for 139 staff and to lay off 176 staff, primarily those who work at MNHS historic sites and museums that remain closed. These actions will address strains on the MNHS operating budget as a result of ongoing closures. Critical staff will continue to ensure the security of historic sites and resources. MNHS is closely monitoring developments related to COVID-19. As MNHS plans scenarios for reopening, we are following recommendations from the Minnesota Department of Health and working to ensure the safety and welfare of our guests and workforce.
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8 – Southwest Sailor, July 2020
Wheels Across the Prairie: Flower beds and so much more
In the fall of 1998, the Wheels Across the Prairie Museum in Tracy held a fundraising event. That was the event where Jon Wendorff approached the museum’s founder, Mary Lou Ludeman, and asked if he could start volunteer work there. Ludeman told Wendorff he could start when the museum re-opened for the season that following year. Ludeman kept her word. In the spring of 1999, Wendorff began his first volunteer task working on the flower beds. Wendorff explained, “There were only two at the time. One garden led to another and another and another and now they’re all over the place.” Twenty-one years later, Wendorff advanced from tending to flower beds to becoming the president of the museum and a board member of
by Trina Thomas
Special to the Sailor
THE WHEELS ACROSS THE PRAIRIE MUSEUM is widely regarded as one of the top small-town museums in the region. Photo / Trina Thomas
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several museums throughout Southwest Minnesota. Wendorff admits that his passion for history increased after volunteering at Wheels Across The Prairie, but he gives the most credit to his education at Tracy High School. It was his 9th-grade history teacher, Mr. Bolin, who instilled in Wendorff the importance of Minnesota and local history. Wendorff described Mr. Bolin as being, “a very good teacher and had a huge influence on history in me.” The Indian Uprising of 1857 is Wendorff’s favorite historical movement to study but the Wheels Across The Prairie Museum doesn’t just stop there. Visitors can expect to gather an abundance of information and see a variety of original and model buildings. Some of these must-see sights include Amiret, Minnesota’s first U.S. Post Office building, a blacksmith shop, and the museum’s obvious trademark of a 1915 freight train. Another building is
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expected to be completed in two years as volunteers work to renovate a railroad section foreman house dated back to 1884. When Wendorff was told there would be no electricity in the section foreman house his response was, “What do you mean we’re going to have no electricity? I’m not bailing water out of there-no way!” Due to the lack of enthusiasm for bailing water, sump pumps will be
Wheels
continued on page 9
The original post office in Amiret for several years, now used on the museum grounds, holds memorabilia of the Amiret Community Band, along with other artifacts of the Amiret community. Photos / Trina Thomas
Southwest Sailor, July 2020 – 9
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Continued from page 8
installed in the basement crawl space. The St. Marks Episcopal Church is another building located at the museum. This church started in Tracy on October 13th, 1889, which holds memorabilia inside from the late 1800s. St. Marks was added to Wheels Across the Prairie Museum due to Wendorff appearing in front of the city council to request that the church become one of the museum’s own. The city council playfully responded to Wendorff’s request by saying that it would cost him a dollar. Without hesitation, Wendorff replied, “Here’s a dollar. I want that building.” Wendorff’s wish was granted. Wheels Across the
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10 – Southwest Sailor, July 2020
Nobles’ Road Part two of the narrative “Nobles’ Road,” written by Randy Kottke of rural Tracy.
By June 22nd, the corps had moved itself eighty miles southwest from St. Paul to the east bank of the Minnesota River, six miles below New Ulm and opposite the mouth of the Cottonwood River. The following day in a warm rain, twenty-seven wagons, eighty draft animals, their teamsters, the laborers, the cooks and the hunters, were ferried across the Minnesota one team at a time to “Bessen’s.” The supplies shipped previously by steamboat had arrived there, not at Fort Ridgely as Nobles proposed earlier. The property had been safeguarded since leaving St. Paul by the seller, James Nugent, who was rewarded for his effort by being appointed Commissary and was employed as such for eighteen months. The wagons were loaded, and by the end of the day the train had moved two miles up the Minnesota: The banks of the Minnesota on each side are covered with Maple, Cottonwood, Bramble, Willow etc., the prairie looks like a flower bed. Large numbers of wild Pigeons are flying, and we have abundance of them at our meals. The river is still rising. An old Indian burial ground is situated on the bank of the river, one mile distant. The next day, the procession moved upriver to New Ulm, sixteen miles below Fort Ridgely. Established two years earlier, New Ulm was still on the edge of the frontier but already home to three hundred fiftysix residents. The expedition completed its outfit there with lumber, flour, and feed grain from F. Robbecke, and groceries from Chas. T. Koehne & Co. and H. Vajen
& Brother. The train, accompanied by Fish and his Itinerary started west for the supply depot at Hole in the Mountain the following day, using Nicollet’s 1838 expedition route paralleling the north side of the Cottonwood River. The column would intersect Nobles’ survey from the previous fall when it reached Plum Creek, forty miles ahead; the road between there and Fort Ridgely would be built on the return trip. The superintendent and a few men moved ahead of the train as far as the Big Sioux River, Nobles hoping to learn from Indians going to Yellow Medicine where to expect the humorless Ihankton. By the time of Nobles’ adventure, two administrative agencies had been built on the Sioux reservation by the Department of the Interior’s Bureau of Indian Affairs. The lower, or Redwood agency, was established fifteen miles above Fort Ridgely in 1853 near the mouth of the Redwood River, and the upper, or Yellow Medicine was begun in 1856 near the mouth of the Yellow Medicine River, forty miles above Fort Ridgely. Straining teams pulled hard enough to break wagon axles and tongues on the first day of travel from New Ulm, the rain-softened ground to blame. After moving only five miles the builders stopped at “Tuttle’s, a frontiersman from Pennsylvania,” from whom they “received many favors.” The next morning was spent repacking wagons. By the end of the day, the corps had advanced twelve miles and encamped across from a small village of Indians, their chief “a son of Sleepy Eyes, a Sioux warrior of some renown.”
The following day and ten mosquito-infested miles further west, the company struck the north branch of the Cottonwood River, now Sleepy Eye Creek. The men saw “plenty of duck & plover, and caught a number of fine terrapin in the stream,” but at five feet deep, it was a stream too deep to ford with loaded wagons. Without timber to build a temporary bridge, crossing was made the next day by placing emptied wagons end to end across the stream, those overflowed being weighted with barrels of salt pork; men standing in the partly submerged wagons were able to pass the supplies over and reload the train in two and a half hours. The group moved a mile further west to encamp on the open prairie, less troubled by mosquitos. From June 28th: There are two lakes here of good clear water, plenty of duck and upland plover. The approach to the lakes is difficult owing to the rank marsh grass. In order to retrieve a duck which I had shot, I was compelled to pass through sedge 6 to 8 feet tall & water up to my waist. The prairie as far as scenery is concerned is as blank as the ocean. Noon 86 degrees, Sunset 80 degrees, Coldest at Night 50 degrees. A large wolf was seen prowling about during the night. The following afternoon, the column reached Nobles’ 1856 survey and crossed to the south side of the Cottonwood, there three feet deep and forty feet wide. They had moved sixteen miles further west by the end
Nobles’ Road
continued on page 11
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Nobles’ Road Continued from page 10
of the day. That night, two men sent from Nobles’ advance party found the expedition. William Quin, an interpreter, and “PoorDog, a friendly Indian & guide to Col Nobles last year,” had been dispatched by the superintendent to locate the train and hasten its movement. The reason given was that the murderous Inkpadutah and fourteen braves were encamped near Hole in the Mountain and the regrouped expedition should attempt to capture them. Inkpadutah’s band were the renegade Wahpekute who had slain thirty-nine whites near Spirit Lake and Jackson four months earlier. Nobles’ chance to thwart “wickedly disposed” Indians was at hand. Nonetheless, the ox draws his load no faster than its walking teamster and it required three more days for the superintendent’s corps to reach him. To speed its advance, the campaign moved until ten o’clock the night of July 1st, travelling twenty-five miles that day, over “one vast prairie, unbroken by hill or tree.” The men inspected their firearms, they would soon be among the travelling Indians, friendly Indians with a “propensity for stealing.” The men would resist. A seventeen-hour march the following day brought the train to Nobles and his engineers, where last year’s supply depot had become the Dakota Land Company town of Benton: Started at 7 a. m. this morning. Passed through an Indian planting. We saw a few squaws hoeing corn, their cheeks and the crease dividing the hair painted with vermillion, passed several small lakes, & also Lake “Benton,” which is beautiful lake some 15 miles in length, with a considerable quantity of Oak and Elm on its banks. At 12 m. arrived at “Hole-in-theMountain,” original “Re-ndo-ka,” spelt by the Smithsonian dictionary “He-hdo-ka.” The place takes its name from a series of high hills, easy of ascent, which are well timbered principally with Oak. These hills are the divide between the Cottonwood prairie & the Ravine des Sioux. This is destined to be a general stopping place for travelers, and has been selected by the Dakota Land Co. for a town site. There is a post office located here, at the trading post of Jos. R. Brown, who is the mail contractor. Found Col Nobles and Medary’s party awaiting us here. Indians are about us in numbers and a vigilant guard is kept upon them. No mention of Inkpadutah was made when the train arrived at Hole in the Mountain, though Nobles found reason to halt the expedition there. Similar to the drama reported at the Big Sioux River the previous fall, the Indians now
told of 150 lodges of Ihankton encamped eighty miles distant at the James River, intending to bar the roadbuilder’s passage. The “equally determined to proceed” superintendent sent engineer Medary and a small party eighty-seven miles back to Fort Ridgely to borrow a mountain howitzer. The rumor of Indians ahead was true; two-hundred Yankton lodges were witnessed at the James in late May with Inkpadutah among them. In a case of demand exceeding supply, when the engineer returned on July 7th, he brought no cannon. Medary reported the fort’s commander denied his request, explaining, “the appearances of serious trouble with the Indians compelled him to keep all of his arms by him.” At the time, the fort was garrisoned by 137 infantrymen. While waiting for the engineer to return, the men repaired wagons, cleaned guns, made cartridge boxes, and dined on the pickerel, perch, and catfish they caught in Lake Benton. Fourth of July was celebrated with the arrival in camp of sixth-year congressman Galusha Aaron Grow. Escorted by members of the land company, Grow had arrived from another of the company sites, Medary, twenty-five miles further west where the road would cross the Big Sioux River. In February, 1858, Grow and a South Carolina Democrat exchanged blows on the House floor, starting “The Most Infamous Brawl in the History of the U. S. House of Representatives,” and by 1861 Grow was Speaker of the House of Representatives. For the expedition, however, “Mr. Grow delivered the oration & the day was appropriately kept.” Completing the festive occasion in the middle of nowhere, mail was sent east with the departing congressman the following day. “The Indians have all departed for the agency,” wrote Fish, and after four days in camp, Nobles’ force of “able bodied and competent men” felt their fifty carbines sufficient protection to continue: The road is nearly a straight line to Medary Creek, where we are now camped & only ¼ of a mile to the Big Sioux River. The prairie crossed today is called the “Coteau des Prairie,” or “Prairie of High Lands” & is by odometer 24 15/100 miles in width from east to west and not a tree or shrub to be seen in any direction. It is almost level, with no water, excepting a small slough, a branch of Medary Creek seven miles from Hole in the Mountain. This prairie is covered with wild pea, redtop & marshy dry grass. The mirage had been so intense it seemed as if “approaching a sea of We’re prou has rece d that our sta ff ived th Quality e Silver Award presen the Am ted by erican He Associa alth Care tion.
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vast extent and beauty.” For ten days the expedition remained, cutting and grading the banks of the Big Sioux and Medary Creek. A damaged wagon was salvaged for parts to repair others, the heavy loads to blame. Hoping it would survive Indian mischief or prairie fire, hay was cut and stacked for use in the men’s return trip at the end of the season. Now midsummer, the grass was beginning to yellow and the expedition’s cattle sought forage in the ravines leading to the river. Inkpadutah remained free and the Indian Bureau concluded that the Indians themselves were the men to capture him. And to persuade them to undertake the pursuit, their annuities would be withheld until the renegade was found. Two of Nobles’ men sent to Yellow Medicine for information returned claiming that there were 15,000 Indians gathered there. In the process, the men ruined and abandoned two mules and “bursted one revolver.” A messenger sent earlier had fared worse; his horse had been stolen at the agency and he was forced to walk the entire seventy miles back to the Big Sioux, “confirming the reports of the hostile disposition of the Indians.” On the same day, July 16th, nearly all of the percussion caps needed for the expedition’s arms were found to be ruined, apparently by water, the sole ignition source for five thousand cartridges. A most unlikely coincidence, Nobles declared that the caps were damaged on their way from the St. Louis arsenal, and as he “had no use for them until today,” had not discovered the calamity earlier. Without apology, the superintendent began a retreat to the survey’s upper crossing of the Cottonwood, later announcing to Secretary Thompson, “I
have experienced such opposition from the Ihankton Indians as to compel me for the safety of my men to fall back two days’ travel.” Reaching Hole in the Mountain in one day, the campaign found friendly Indians there again, Elbow Needles Yanktonai moving to Yellow Medicine. With the aid of an interpreter, Nobles held a council, promising many horses and wagons loaded with provisions to them for the delivery of Inkpadutah. Clarifying his position, the superintendent told them, “the Great Father has not authorized me to give anything for this capture, but my friends have requested it & they will pay the horses and wagons.” The Great Father had not authorized Nobles to pay Indians for the right to build through their country, either, but the superintendent promised his audience that if the Ihankton left him alone, he would tell the Great Father in Washington who would probably pay them for the road. Nobles “gave them flour & presents” and ended the council: The fact of their leaving their old & sick & young behind & rapid travelling proves that they are on the “war path” & confirms my belief that a general Sioux war is pending unless happily averted by the wisdom & management of the superintendent. During the council they were all attention smoking the pipe & passing it around, and never interrupting. The squaws are small & have cunning looking faces. They are armed with bows and arrows & scantily covered with blankets. The men left by the “Dakota Land Co” at the town of “Medary,” eleven in number, considering it unsafe to remain, have joined
Nobles’ Road
continued on page 12
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12 – Southwest Sailor, July 2020
Nobles’ Road Continued from page 11
me for protection and will remain with me until quiet is restored. Nobles studied his position the following day: I am confirmed in my belief that a serious war is contemplated by the Sioux nation, & that I have taken the correct position in the premises. Had my arms & ammunition been of a character commensurate with the importance of my expedition & the great advantages to be derived therefrom, I should not have delayed my passage across the Missouri River one hour. As it is, I shall be able to complete this part to my entire satisfaction & make a good road at least to the Missouri River, if not to the proposed end of my section in good season. But no one was sent for new gun caps. Instead, the superintendent turned the train to the southeast, leaving their outward survey, to “see if the topography of the country on the south side of the river may not be most favorable for the road.” The third day of retreat brought the column to a group of lakes, including Lake Shetek, their shores “heavily & abundantly timbered.” The location was described as the best section “on this side of the Minnesota River, both for agricultural & town purposes & must be a point of trade in the new territory of Dakota.” The expedition’s presence may have had little to do with their assignment. The land company was claiming yet another
of their sites there, on the proposed mail route between New Ulm and Sioux Falls City. It was to be Great Oasis, after Nicollet’s name for part of the area visited during his 1838 exploration. He said of the forest, “The growth of the various species forming it is as beautiful as any which can be seen in the basin of the lower Missouri.” He also described the remains of an American Fur Company post there, freshly reduced to ashes by “Sioux marauders.” The post had been abandoned after the decimation of its clientele by smallpox. But for Nobles, his group was eighteen miles south of where it belonged: Engineer Medary & assistant went out to explore Lake Shetek & in the meantime the train started. In about one hour afterward (the train had proceeded 3 miles) they came up to us, on a fierce gallop, reporting that a large band of Indians were rapidly following us, that they numbered at least 150. I immediately turned in toward a small lake about ¼ of a mile distant & formed my wagons into a circle, placing the cattle in the center, while the men stood prepared for the approach. By the time these arrangements were completed, the band were seen coming over the brow of the hill, numbering at least 125 to 150 warriors, all well mounted & approaching in regular order, with the entire number in line toward us. I took 2 determined men, (mounted) & met them about 100 yards from my men. I warned them not to approach any nearer or else I would fire upon them. They
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examined my position critically & seeing the determination of the men, & the disposition of the wagons & cattle, altered what seemed to be their original intention, that of attack & went and camped about a half of a mile distant & then sent their Chief for a Council. I appointed the ensuing day for the Council. I placed extra guard on & warned the men to be vigilant, for Indians are never safe, let appearances be ever so flattering. I gave them flour & presents. The Indians arrived for Nobles’ council the next morning, Ihankton braves. The superintendent said he was pleased to meet them since he would be building a road through their land, and repeated his Hole in the Mountain speech about not being able to pay for the right-ofway. But perhaps a deal could be made. Nobles recorded, “that from the written testimony from Army officers & others which they had shown me, I was satisfied that they were good Indians, but that they might show themselves still more friendly to the U. S. by sending out and capturing Inkpadutah or “Scarlet Point,” who was the cause of all the unfriendly feelings and troubles now existing at Yellow Medicine.” In exchange, Nobles “friends at Minnesota” had authorized him to give the Indians thirty horses and twenty wagons loaded with provisions. For the time being, however, the superintendent told them to go home. He had offered them enough provisions to do so, “to this they all exclaimed Ho, Ho (good) enthusiastically (they always do when you promise them anything).” Their chief, Smutty Bear, reminded that they were Ihanktons, not the Sioux
causing trouble at Yellow Medicine, and they had come from the Missouri after their corn was planted to dig stone for their pipes. They were camped at the Pipestone quarry and told Nobles that when they heard of the expedition, “we hurried after to grasp your hand & assure you that we were still friendly.” Not to be charmed, Nobles decreed, “if you do not deliver to the white man Inkpadutah, I shall regard every Indian that I see between the Sioux and Missouri rivers as an enemy, as a friend of Inkpadutah.” An Indian rose, “you are making a road through our country and driving away our main dependence, the Buffalos.” Nobles’ promise of compensation at a later date brought the Indian counteroffer, “we must be paid or you will meet with trouble.” Undeterred, the superintendent asked his guests to supply two guides for the expedition, which was refused. The superintendent told them he was determined to continue and warned them not to interfere. He would “punish them severely if they did so.” The punishment would be done without the precious gun caps, apparently: The train was now ready to start, & after a little advice to them to attend to their fields & not to mix up in the Sioux troubles & to assist me, the council was broken up. I gave them flour, blankets, & other presents of kettles, iron & provisions & saw them start back for the Pipe Stone. I then took a northwesterly course, and at 4 p.m. camped at the Big Woods on the Cottonwood River, where J. R. Brown has located a town site by authority of the Dakota Land Co. See the August Sailor for part III.
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Southwest Sailor, July 2020 – 13
THey got their kicks (and more) on route 66 John and Muriel Coulter have returned from their trip back in time: a 1,600-mile sojourn along the historic Route 66
S
o, the real question is: What editor about those golden retrievers? John and Muriel Coulter, proud owners of three beloved goldens, returned Saturday, June 27, from a three-week sojourn on the famous Route 66. Check that, John and Muriel — and their three dogs — returned from a three-week sojourn on the famous Route 66. With soon-to-be-16-year-old Honker, 9-year-old Max and 6-year-old Jack tucked away comfortby per Peterson
ably in the back seat of the Coulter’s extended cab Chevy pick-up, the Coulters in early June left Tracy for Santa Monica, CA, for a 10-day family visit, en route to a 2,456.1-mile sojourn from there to Chicago along what was known as the “Mother Road” of the original highways before being rendered obsolete by the interstate highway system. “Honker is going to die anytime soon, and I’m not gonna let that dog die without me being there — that’s why she had to come along,” John said. “On a three-week vacation, if she’s dying, I’m not gonna be there. We stayed 13 nights in motels, and all 13 motels were Motel 6, because they take dogs.” Muriel said the leg of their trip after Santa Monica — from West Hollywood to Cucamonga — took 4 1/2 hours because of all the twists and
‘
The worst thing in the world to have on your death bed is a big, long list of things you didn’t do. — john coulter
Muriel and John Coulter pause for a photo under a sign in Illinois that signals the start of the Route 66 jaunt from Chicago to Santa Monica. The Coulters actually traveled from Santa Monica to Chicago — a total of 2,465.1 miles — after starting their summer vacation with family in California.
Route 66
continued on page 14
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14 – Southwest Sailor, July 2020
Route 66 Continued from page 13
turns in California. “You’d be on Route 66, then you’d make a turn and you’d go over or under a freeway, then it would go out a few miles,” Muriel said. “Sometimes we would be parallel with the interstate.” ••• The Coulters took in every landmark and sponged up as much history as they could during their trip across country on the well-known beaten path that was established on Nov. 11, 1926 (paving was completed 14 years later). From Mickey Mantle’s home and humble beginnings in Commerce, OK, and the U-Drop Inn Cafe in Shamrock, Texas, to the “corner in Winslow, Arizona” made famous by Glenn Frey and the Eagles, and the “Cadillac Ranch” in Amarillo, the history lesson on wheels taught even John, a history teacher for 34 years in the Tracy School District, a thing or two. “Every day was something nice,” John said. “It was like going back in time; we found something new every day. Route 66 changed America.” John, who taught a unit on Route 66 at Tracy Area High School as a “colorful way to teach about the Great Depression,” said at least 70% of the original buildings along Route 66 are gone or in ruin and another 25% are
THE “CADILLAC RANCH” in Amarillo, Texas, was just one of many stops the Coulters made on their summer vacation along Route 66.
falling apart; the rest have been restored. He said among its numerous nicknames, the “Highway of Hope” was one of them. “Everyone used to load every damn thing they had in their car and would head west — they were willing to take any job, they would work in the fields, they’d do whatever, because there was no work, and we were in the middle of the dust bowl at this time,” John said. “It was another time.” •••
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THE COULTERS don’t go many places without their beloved golden retrievers, including on their summer vacation to Santa Monica, CA, and Route 66.
Route 66 — which covers ground in California, Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, Oklahoma, Kansas, Missouri and Illinois — has certainly seen better days, both structurally and in terms of its impact in the United States. A law to construct a new system of five high-speed, limited-access highways passed by President Eisenhower in 1956, rendered Route 66 nearly irrelevant to most Americans. By 1970, nearly all segments of the original Route 66 had been bypassed by interstate connections; there were eventually two separate Route 66s in some areas, and both were decommissioned in 1985.
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“The interstate highway system was the death knell of Route 66,” John said. John added that businesses would build things just to get tourists to stop — like a giant blue whale in a park that became a landmark. “And a guy has a restaurant called the Launching Pad and he built a giant astronaut outside,” he said. Today’s Route 66 is a true juxtaposition of what it once was, as there is virtually no traffic. Route 66 is still a working street in Los Angeles, but outside of the major cities, it’s all open and very quite road — it’s little more than a business exit off the interstate. John said when Route 66 was rendered virtually useless after the interstates were constructed, there was a lot of despair along the stretch of highway. “They were forgotten,” he said. “Route 66 is nonexistent and in really rough shape in a lot of places. There’s nobody on Route 66. I knew we weren’t going to be able to drive it all, but we wanted to drive as much of it as we could. It can be very confusing and very hard to follow because the road is hard to find in some places.” Enter technology. The Coulters spent $20 on a Route 66 app that highlights roads and places of interest along the route. The app tracked also how many miles they drove. “There’s a lot of points of interest that are not too far off Route 66,” John said. “We saw things that we never would have seen with that app. There’s another site like the Cadillac Ranch where a guy buried a bunch of Volkswagens, and we never would’ve found that without the app.” “What’s nice about that app is there would be little, red dots where there was something to see,” said Muriel. “There would be things out in the
Route 66
continued on page 15
Southwest Sailor, July 2020 – 15
THE COULTERS paid a visit to the U Drop Inn cafe — a favorite haunt of a gentleman by the name of Elvis Presley. You might have heard of him.
DID YOU KNOW there are actually two separate routes on Route 66?
Route 66 Continued from page 14
country like a deserted town, and you wouldn’t know it was there unless you had that.” One was a totem pole that a man who lived on a farm just built. There were just silly little things that were out in the country.”
JOHN COULTER stands on the front porch of the childhood home of legendary Major Leaguer Mickey Mantle in Commerce, OK.
And then there was the U-Drop Inn Cafe. “It’s very well-known,” Muriel said. “Elvis ate there once.” Muriel, who has been involved in the teaching/education field for about 48 years, also noted that the one business that seems to get paid the most attention when it comes to restoration are gas stations. “It’s either for scenery, or they’re functional,” she said. “Some are still going.”
••• John said they paid as little as $1.50 (Wyoming) for a gallon of gasoline and as much as $2.45 (California). All told, they traveled some 6,000 miles from Tracy to Santa Monica and back. The trip turned out to be the perfect getaway for the couple — both entertaining and educational. John said when he first met Muriel he told her they would go places — and go places they have. He said it’s important to take the time to do things like traveling because you never know how much time you have, and he would know since he watched his mother die of cancer while in her 40s. “I’m kind of a bucket list guy,” he said. “The worst thing in the world to have on your death bed is a big, long list of things you didn’t do.”
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16 – Southwest Sailor, July 2020
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