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PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER
MAY 2022
HAIR IS GOING out out...
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PRO HAIR LOVES: client colour
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OCCASION HAIR SPECIAL: bridal, festival & races
DIRECTS: 40 DESMOND a creative collab
CONT OCCASION HAIR SPECIAL
REGULARS
BUSINESS
7
FIRST WORD
23 HARINGTONS
8
HEADLINES
24 STEVE ROWBOTTOM
33 ROAR: HAIR MENUS
10 NEWS INTERVIEW
25 COLIN McANDREW
34 BRIDAL
12 OUT OUT
26 PHIL SMITH
36 FESTIVAL
15 LOVE – SHAMPOO BARS
28 CLIVE COLLINS
38 EVENTS
17 LOVE – CLIENT COLOUR
29 SAM BURNETT
18 COLOUR – GARY TAYLOR
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ISSUE 0 5 MAY 2022
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PORTFOLIO: Schwarzkopf Professional
58
DROPPED: the latest product line up
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VISIT: Inanch Emir at Inanch
TENTS PORTFOLIO
PRODUCTS
40 DESMOND DIRECTS
58 DROPPED: LATEST PRODUCTS
44 SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL
60 SPOTLIGHT: SENS.US 61 SPOTLIGHT:
LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION!
AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT
50 DAVID CORBETT
63 SPOTLIGHT: GOLDWELL
54 HEADMASTERS ART TEAM
64 VISIT: INANCH 68 HAIRDRESSERS AT HOME: DANILO GIANGRECO
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Hair to go
out out
Shout out to all hairdressers and salons in Nottingham – you know who you are! The latest Hairdresser Index from Bionic reveals that there is no such thing as a bad hair day in Nottingham as it sits in pole position as the best UK city for hair services. Newcastle ranks in second place with hairdressers in high demand and Leicester comes in third with its salons highly rated. In fact, the top eight best UK cities are further north when it comes to hair services. Obviously more southerly cities do feature in the top 20 but not in the top half: London sits in 10th position! To read the complete run-down of the UK cities that offer the best beauty business and salon services, go to www.bionic.co.uk/best-beauty-cities. As we all breathe a sigh of relief and move into a restriction-free summer, wherever your salon is situated around the UK, you will hopefully see the return of clients looking for their best occasion hair. Be it bridal, festival, proms or races – big event hair is back and we celebrate going ‘out out’ with a special inspo feature starting on page 32.
@PROHAIRMAG
Q @PROHAIRMAG
Editor
Designer
Nicola Shannon
Donna Booth
nshannon@hamerville.co.uk Assistant Editor Megan Danskine mdanskine@hamerville.co.uk Digital Manager Rebecca Mcgeoch rmcgeoch@hamerville.co.uk
HAIR: David Corbett
WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK
Group Production Manager Carol Padgett Production Assistant Claire Swendell Group Sales Manager Oliver Shannon
Professional Hairdresser, Hamerville Media Group Ltd, Regal House, Regal Way, Watford, Herts, WD24 4YF. Phone: 01923 237799 Fax: 01923 246901
oshannon@hamerville.co.uk
25,291
• July 20 – June 21
PHOTOGRAPHY: Michael Young
Subscriptions to Professional Hairdresser are avaliable at the following rates: UK: 1 year - £30 post paid Europe and Overseas: 1 year - £50 post paid AIRMAIL: 1 year - £65 post paid. To be removed from this magazine’s circulation please call 01923 237799 or email circulation@hamerville.couk. ©2022 Professional Hairdresser accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no responsibilty can be acceoted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in any form, without prior written permission from the publishers.
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@PROHAIRMAG
Q @PROHAIRMAG
WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK
HEADLINES HAIR INAUGURATION Robert Eaton has been welcomed as the new President for the Fellowship for British Hairdressing at a star-studded event in London. He takes over from Ken Picton, who has led the organisation for the past three years.
LEGENDS OF BRITISH HAIRDRESSING The great and good of hairdressing gathered at London’s coolest venue, Electric Space for the launch of Mark Woolley’s Legends of British Hairdressing, an artwork made up of many faces of the industry, raising over £5,000 so far in much needed funds for the Hair & Beauty Charity.
WASTE WARRIORS Vish’s annual awards program ranks the top five salons and stylists in the UK on their average waste per service. The top Waste Warrior stylist is Simon Hall, Salon Director at Karine Jackson Sustainable Hair in London, who beat his boss, Karine, into second place for the second year in a row.
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SUPER SUPPORT DENMAN recently supported Blind Aid, London’s oldest sight loss charity, in putting on a hair care and styling workshop for a blind and partially sighted group. Martyn Wady, DENMAN’s International Business Manager taught members of the group the tactile differences between the tools and showed them through touch how to best use them and style their hair to their own satisfaction. Martyn says “It was such an uplifting but also humbling day and I’m looking forward to helping out again soon.”
BADGE OF HONOUR
VISIONARIES ANNOUNCED
LOOK IN THE MIRROR Kao Salon Division launches online game ‘Green Mirror’ to help salons to become more sustainable and environmentally friendly. Find out more: www.rdr.link/HL001
Revlon Professional’s Visionaries 2022 team is: Jessie Stride, Beehive Creative Studio, Hessle. Adele Plowman, Be Unique Studio, Kingston upon Hull. Amy Wright, Mint Hair London, Battersea. Olivia Bain, Westrow, West Park, Leeds. Shelby Barraclough, Peter Marsh Hairdressing, South Shields.
Green Salon Collective has partnered with sustainability consultancy The Liminality to offer a unique accreditation system for salons and other businesses in the hair and beauty industry. Achieving GSC accreditation demonstrates to clients, staff and the wider industry that a business goes above and beyond when it comes to looking after people and the planet by creating a sustainable salon experience. Find out more: www.rdr.link/HL002
This year-long mentorship programme is directed by Revlon’s Global Ambassador, Mark Leeson.
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ROLE CALL WITH...
ANDREW BARTON & KEITH CONNIFORD ANDREW BARTON has been named as Patron of Honour for the Hair & Barber Council, only the third hairdresser to hold the position. So what does Andrew hope to bring to the role – and why is State Registration so important to him? We caught up with Andrew and Registrar KEITH CONNIFORD.
CONGRATULATIONS ANDREW ON YOUR NEW ROLE, HOW DOES IT FEEL TO BE ONLY THE THIRD PERSON TO BE PATRON OF HONOUR? ANDREW: It’s a huge honour to have been
appointed this role following in the footsteps of industry legends, Vidal Sassoon and Daniel Galvin. I’m very much looking forward to working with the Council and industry leaders to achieve the ambition of the Hair & Barber Council. It’s a huge responsibility and I’m
thrilled to have already received so much industry support. KEITH: We’ve only had two other Patron of Honours in our history, but Andrew is an incredible ambassador for everything that is great about our industry, passionate about training and education, hugely creative and 100% supportive of regulating our sector – so he was a natural choice. I have known Andrew for many years, and I am absolutely delighted that he will be working with myself and the Hair & Barber Council as we come out of the pandemic. KEITH, CAN YOU TELL US A LITTLE BIT ABOUT THE ACT OF PARLIAMENT AND THE HAIR & BARBER COUNCIL’S CAUSE? KEITH: The Hairdressing Act (including barbering) was first constituted in 1964. Held in the name of ‘The Hairdressing Council’ which trades as the Hair & Barber Council, we are the only statutory authority for the hair and barber sector. Within the Act, we are responsible for protecting and developing the register of professional hairdressers and barbers throughout the UK, which is currently voluntary. What we are seeking to do is to change this to mandatory and to do so to have the current Act amended from voluntary to mandatory and include beauty into the body of the Act. The industry will then self-regulate – government will play no role in this. We also host the Hairdressing, Barbering and Cosmetology All Party Parliamentary Group (APPG) at Westminster. This is the only APPG for the hair and barber sector and gives us unprecedented access to Government via this route. In addition, the newly formed Personal Care Sector at BEIS was a triumph for industry.
Keith Conniford
WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF THE INDUSTRY BEING REGULATED? KEITH: The benefits are huge! Not least that we
will at last be recognised by Government as well as the public as the professional industry we truly are. Benefits would include ensuring a united voice to Government, for too long our sector has been hugely fragmented, a position regularly commented on by Ministers, MPs and the Personal Care department at BEIS. This has weakened our position hugely. It will strengthen our negotiation powers with Government, insurance companies and we will be able to influence debates that effect our industry. We will be masters of our own destiny – the industry run by the industry. ANDREW, WHY WAS IT IMPORTANT FOR YOU TO BE INVOLVED WITH THE HAIR & BARBER COUNCIL? ANDREW: Alongside working with profiling the industry at large as the best of British and championing careers in hairdressing and barbering, I care passionately about the future of the sector and its reputation. I’ve supported the Hair & Barber Council for many years and deeply believe in the benefits of a professional registration and its pursuit of ensuring professional standards and a united industry voice to government. WHAT IS YOUR MESSAGE TO HAIRDRESSERS WHO MIGHT NOT TAKE STATE REGISTRATION SERIOUSLY? ANDREW: The pursuit of an industry being run by industry is a goal that ensures the sector’s protection. One voice, one body that avoids fragmentation and gives us the power
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interview
Andrew Barton
to negotiate with Government and beyond. Currently anyone can practice as a hairdresser and with an ever-changing client landscape ensuring standards amd professionalism is key to our growth. I find it abhorrent that we are not united as an industry and anyone can claim to do what we do. For me it’s about protection. WHY IS IT IMPORTANT THE INDUSTRY IS REGULATED AND HOW WILL THIS CHANGE THINGS?
“I’ve supported the Hair & Barber
Council for many years and deeply believe in the benefits of a professional registration and its pursuit of ensuring professional standards and a united industry voice to government...”
ANDREW: I’ve been an advocate of education for the future of British hairdressing throughout my career through apprenticeships and through my ABLE scholarship programme for further education colleges. The client is ever demanding in terms of their needs and mandatory regulation ensures exacting standards and gives consumer protection. KEITH: Without any shadow of a doubt, our sector would have been taken more seriously during the pandemic had it been regulated. With a united front, our combined strength would have given us the stronger platform needed to challenge the Government on behalf of the sector. The change in perception of the industry will increase significantly not just in the corridors of power, but with the public, and the industry choice of a professional career will be more significant than ever before. ANDREW: Change is always about progress, commitment and dedication. The Hair & Barber Council is fully engaged with supporting the industry and achieving it’s goal, I’m delighted to be championing the cause.
FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THE HAIR & BARBER COUNCIL: WWW.HAIRCOUNCIL.ORG.UK
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out out...
GLAM NIGHT OUT Now in its 10th year, the GLammies by Great Lengths recognise some of the UK and Ireland’s most talented extensionists and celebrate the craft, creativity and business of hair extensions.
With guests dressed to impress, it was gowns and sequins in abundance as extensionists from around the country gathered at a glittering ceremony in the City of London for THE GLAMMIES by Great Lengths.
The black tie event held at The Steel Yard in London was attended by over 150 guests. Judged by some of hairdressing’s most respected names, as well as Editors from the industry press, the awards were hosted by ‘How To Cut It’ podcast founder Dom Lehane and included a drinks reception, three-course dinner and after party. Trophies were awarded across a total of 16 categories comprised of six specialist categories, plus regional awards, an award for charitable work and the most prestigious title of the night, the Great Lengths Trophy for Extension Excellence, awarded to an extensionist who has demonstrated outstanding work.
The GLammies by Great Lengths 2021/22 winners are: SPECIALIST CATEGORIES LONGER LENGTH
Jennifer Swain at Swain Hairdressing ENVIABLE VOLUME
Katie Hemming at Love Hair CAPTIVATING COLOUR
Jack Trafene-Little at Salon Ten CREATIVE INNOVATION
Linda Thornton at Lynda T Hairdressing In addition to a coveted GLammies trophy, all winners also received tickets for a tour of the Great Lengths production factory in Rome, with two nights five-star accommodation, meals and internal transfers for two people. The prize package also includes social media coverage and PR opportunities across both trade and local press, ensuring that winners can publicise their recognition as the best in the industry.
“Once again, the GLammies by Great Lengths have shone a spotlight on the remarkable extensionists we have working in our incredible industry. The standard of entries improves year on year and the 2021/22 winners should feel particularly proud to have beaten such fierce competition. Their creativity, passion and precision are an inspiration and we are delighted to acknowledge and celebrate their talent.”
BRIDAL CREATION
Jill Faulkner at Faulkners Salon BEST NEWCOMER
Mandy Delaney at Rosser Hairdressing REGIONAL CATEGORIES SCOTLAND Row 66 NORTH EAST Joanne Fox at Joanne Fox Hair NORTH WEST Rosser Hairdressing MIDLANDS Arabella Kind at Hair By Arabella WALES Natasha Hughes at Salon Forty One LONDON Amy Best at Best In Beauty SOUTH EAST Melanie McDonald at Melanie Richards Hair and Beauty IRELAND Streetlife Hair CHARITY Strawberry Hair TROPHY FOR EXTENSION EXCELLENCE Joanne Fox at Joanne Fox Hair
JOSCELIN MCCOURT, HB COLLECTIVE CEO (HOME OF GREAT LENGTHS HAIR EXTENSIONS)
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They’re not for everyone, but with Summer on the way and Earth month just passed, we thought we’d take a look at the travel-friendly, eco-friendly, and lifestyle-friendly offerings of the ‘shampoo bar’ for you to talk about with your conscious clients.
AVEDA SHAMPURE NURTURING SHAMPOO BAR Featuring Abyssinian oil, the Shampure Nurturing Shampoo Bar gently cleanses and provides weightless, long-lasting nourishment while infusing hair with Aveda’s signature calming aroma. £3.80 from each bar goes to projects with charity: water. www.rdr.link/HL003
KMS SOLID SHAMPOO TRIfinity technology has been integrated in all KMS Solid Shampoos, standing for reliability, longevity and high performance. This makes the START products compatible with any of the KMS STYLE and FINISH products, enabling you to create any style you want – no matter if you go solid or liquid! www.rdr.link/HL004
INDOLA ACT NOW! SOLID SHAMPOO The Solid Shampoo bar cleanses the hair and scalp providing natural shine and comb-ability and reduces water and plastic waste thanks to its sustainable solid format. Results show that the amount of uses of one ACT NOW Solid Shampoo corresponds to a 330ml liquid shampoo. www.rdr.link/HL005
WEDO/ PROFESSIONAL NO PLASTIC SHAMPOO BARS The weDo/ Professional Shampoo Bars are made with natural ingredients and provide low waste as a result of minimal packaging and reduced water consumption. One shampoo bar can last up to 80 washes and lasts up to 3 of weDo/ Professional 300ml shampoo bottles. www.rdr.link/HL006
KINKIND GIVE ME MORE! SHAMPOO BAR Perfect for curly, frizzy, damaged, long and thick hair, Give Me MORE! Shampoo bars boast a silicone free, wheat bran based active ingredient that protects the hair fibres to give extra smoothness, softness, hydration, moisture, shine, strength and resistance, and make combing easier. www.rdr.link/HL007
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PRO HAIR LOVES...
CLIENT COLOUR
This copper colour transformation is by Dan Mewies, Mewies & Co. “A few years ago I fell out of love with colouring and focused all my attention on cutting. However, more recently I have fallen back in love with colour again – mainly due to new product technology and a change in client behaviour. Innovations like the BLONDME Premium Clay Lightener have enabled colourists to take a more freehand approach to colouring, giving us more creative freedom, which I love! I have also noticed, especially since the pandemic, clients have a more carefree attitude towards their colour and seem to trust the creative freedom of hairdressers, making the entire process more authentic and enjoyable which is amazing. I loved creating this copper transformation for my client, the end result has depth and multiple tones, giving it a gorgeous authentic finish.” DAN MEWIES
DAN’S STEPS TO DOING WHAT HE LOVES
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1. I pre-lifted sections by 2-3 levels via free hand application with the Schwarzkopf Professional BLONDME Premium Clay Lightner. This is my favourite lightener to use for freehand application as the clay formula gives you precise application and prevents bleeding. 2. After leaving the bleach to process for 10-15 minutes I cleansed the hair. Once the hair was dry, I applied IGORA Royal Absolutes 6-70 + 6% to the roots.
applied the Schwarzkopf Professional Chroma ID 7-77 to the ends along with more of the Authentic Beauty Concept Glow conditioner and left for five minutes before rinsing. 5. Once the hair was fully rinsed, I trimmed it, taking off the ends and adding in some layers. Once blow dried, I applied Authentic Beauty Concept Airy Texture Spray and soft curled using the ghd Platinum+ straightener. This entire transformation took about three hours to complete.
3. I then applied IGORA Royal Absolutes 6-70 + 3% to the middle ends.
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4. Then finally, I applied 7-70 + 3% to the ends. I allowed the colour to process for 35-40 minutes. Once the colour had processed, I cleansed the hair using the Authentic Beauty Concept range. I then removed any excess water from the hair and
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colour
RAISING THE BAR SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL’s new Bonacure Clean Performance range has just taken client hair care up a notch as Schwarzkopf Professional Global Hair Expert and salon owner, GARY TAYLOR shows us why in some interesting before and afters where he compares the previous range to the new one.
Before any products or treatment, the hair was in a normal-dry condition. On the left we used the previous range of Bonacure products. Once we had finished and taken the first ‘after’ picture, we noticed an area of the hair which required a little colour so before we used the new Bonacure Clean Performance range we toned with Chroma ID 5.1. We then used the new BC Clean Moisture Kick shampoo and treatment followed by the Repair Rescue Sealed Ends before blow-drying and styling. The combination of these high-performing products left the hair with a desirable flat cuticle and a clean, soft and shiny finish.
Before any products or treatment, the hair was 70% natural with grown out highlights. It was quite dry and tangled very easily. On the left we used the previous range of Bonacure products. On the right we carried out the “KERATIN CHARGE TREATMENT” which starts with the new Bonacure Clean Balance shampoo, this deep cleansing formula cleans the hair of any product build up, oils and pollution absorbed in the hair. We then used the Repair Rescue shampoo for extra care before following with a 10-minute treatment, also from the Repair Rescue range. Once towel dried, we detangled using the BC Moisture Kick Spray Conditioner. Then, whilst blow-drying the hair we sprayed each section using the BC Clean Balance Anti-Pollution Water, which creates an effective but invisible barrier on the hair, protecting it from outside pollution for up to 24 hours. To finish we applied hero product BC Repair Rescue Sealed Ends on the mid lengths to ends to leave the hair smooth and soft both in appearance and to touch.
“BC Clean Performance is incredible and an absolute staple in our salon!”
Before any products or treatment, this coloured hair had a combination of hair concerns which gave us the perfect canvas to showcase how the new BC Clean Performance range can be mixed and matched, or ‘cocktailed’ to offer a completely tailored service. The roots were naturally oily and the last four inches of length were dry and tangled easily. To show the ultimate comparison we used the previous range of Bonacure products on the left. Then on the right, we started with the new Bonacure Clean Balance shampoo, this deep cleansing formula cleans the hair of any product build up, leaving the hair with a nice even palette to start the hair care service. Next, we shampooed again with the new BC Clean Colour Freeze shampoo followed by a BC Colour Freeze treatment. Once the treatment was applied, we combed the hair from nape to front hair line to ensure the product was distributed evenly before leaving for 10-minutes. Once rinsed, we used the BC Colour Freeze Spray Conditioner to detangle and the new hero product, BC Colour Freeze Shine Saviour cream, before blow-drying. The result? Perfectly cared for hair in every area, and an incredibly soft, shiny, and clean finish with no static.
FIND OUT MORE AT VISIT WWW.RDR.LINK/HL023
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business
VITAL SIGNS Haringtons believe that salons are still the heart of the high street.
In February this year, Haringtons Hairdressing acquired a new salon to the group, Gatsby & Miller, continuing the growth of its salon portfolio in the South of England. Following the last two years of a global pandemic and the forced closure of salons during three lockdowns, this move might seem at the very least, a little risky. This move also comes at a time when freelance hairdressing is on the rise and flexible, non-traditional ways of working are being sought after across all sectors. So why does a business like Haringtons believe that the high street salon is worth fighting for, and how can salons keep staff and clients retained, after the greatest challenge the industry has ever faced? Nikki Neale, Head of Brand and Marketing for Haringtons explains why the company stands behind the strength of salons and champions its place on the high street. “I think it was clear during lockdown, to everyone, how important the hair and beauty industry is. Not only to people – everyone was obsessed with hair – but to our local towns and their business communities. “At Haringtons we believe that hair salons have a vital role to play in helping communities to thrive. We are businesses that contribute to the local economy, and we are hubs of the community where people feel safe and connected, while also being made to feel really good about themselves.” “The pandemic has been challenging but as a business, we had a robust plan in place to help mitigate risk. The acquisition of more salons is absolutely something that we have built into our growth strategy, and we firmly believe that the salon model is worth protecting.” Haringtons’ five-year growth strategy sees no limit on the number of salons it will bring into the group. This strength in numbers means that the business has significant buying power and can attract partners to build lasting relationships with the brands its customers want to buy. Another core focus for Haringtons over the next five years is to grow its team and create new jobs in the industry. In 2021, the NHBF reported that 60% of people working in
hairdressing and barbering in 2020 were self-employed, up from 54% in 2019. Could this rise in freelance hairdressing threaten the traditional salon model? Haringtons believes that there’s room in the industry for all ways of working. Nikki said: “If the last two years have taught us anything, it’s that our health and wellbeing is so important and that new ways of working can help us to maintain good mental health. However, we feel that there is still a role for the traditional salon model and if salons are smart, they will reflect and adapt to meet the needs of employees today.” The group model enables Haringtons to accommodate a much broader approach to flexible working with extended opening hours that offer similar, if not the same flexibility as freelancing. Plus, as part of a salon group, Haringtons employees can access a wide set of expertise and services allowing its hairdressers to concentrate on their craft. Haringtons’ stylists can move between salons, when positions become available and so the group model really helps to fulfil job satisfaction. “Our salons offer stability and a work family that our stylist can rely on. We offer education and lots of professional development opportunities that they perhaps wouldn’t be able to find elsewhere. Across our ten salons, our hairdressers have access to a wide range of other creatives and with that is the opportunity to get involved with things like professional shoots, collections and fashion events. “We have an internal website and messaging channels in salon, that means we can easily communicate with all our salon teams and keep them informed of any business decisions, training and employee perks. We know that this gives our teams a sense of ownership and investment in the company which is reflected in our staff retention.” Nikki adds, “It’s been said time and time again, but hair salons are so much more than somewhere to get your hair cut. They are rare environments where people walk in off the street and for a couple of hours, they can escape, share their thoughts and feelings and be transformed. Salons are also vital to our high streets, encouraging footfall and contributing to the local economy.
To read Nikki’s article in full click here
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FOLLOW
the LEADER
How to lead a team with passion and purpose. Steve Rowbottom, Co-Director, Westrow and Revlon Professional’s Business Development Ambassador explains. As a wise man (Bruce Lee) once said: long-term consistency trumps short-term intensity, and when it comes to leading a team, it’s a consistent approach that’s key. At Westrow, my business partner, Marc Westerman and myself have always understood that the business is a reflection of us; the ethos we breed at the top levels is cascaded down, so it’s always been important for us to motivate in all areas, from retailing and recognition to teamwork and training. If you’re looking for fresh ways to develop and lead a team, the first challenge is learning how to instil confidence rather than arrogance; an imbalance is never healthy and can lead to a toxic environment if left unchecked. While arrogance is the need to convince yourself (and others) that you’re good at what you do, confidence is the conviction of your strengths, while being aware of your weaknesses and addressing them as you go. Allowing your team to have a well-calibrated sense of their own abilities means they will also have the ability to lift the spirits of work colleagues, too: rather than isolating them, they will create opportunities for everyone to shine as a team. To lead a team effectively you also need open lines of communication and over the last 35 years in business (which we celebrated on 1 April 2022) we’ve found there are four consistent approaches. Firstly you need to ensure you provide a clear picture of your future business goals, communicating these in ways your team understands. Secondly, it’s important to exude a passion and belief in your team’s ability, your brand and long-term goals. You also need to communicate effectively, so everyone is, and feels part of, your business journey, while lastly, providing a powerful role model for doing the right things in the right way.
It’s not just a team mindset that’s important but a growth mindset. Here’s what has worked for us over the last 35 years in business: PRESENT AND CONNECT Human connection allows you, in your role of motivator, to fuse your knowledge and mechanics of the craft into the disciplines of your team to encourage growth, integrity and authenticity. TOOLS OF THE TRADE It’s your responsibility to give your team the tools they need to succeed, whether that takes the form of developmental support and CPD or emotional support. The workplace has changed and the people within it have, too. When you’re receptive and open to this you can respond to staff challenges from an area of expertise, rather than ego. SUBSTANCE OVER STYLE Rather than instantly judging bad workplace conduct or behaviour, it’s important to offer constructive feedback as an opportunity for team members to self-correct, with a clearly-defined action plan for improvement. Focus on people’s good qualities and appreciate their substance not style. LEAD BY EXAMPLE Don’t let your heart rule your head and never expect anybody to do something you’re not prepared to do yourself. Leadership is different to management; it’s important to recognise the difference. You can manage people, but are you being a leader? People follow your lead, so make decisions with integrity so your business – and team – can grow together. GOAL DIGGER In business, satisfaction doesn’t come purely from having goals, but from ensuring you have the right goals. This is a key driver in allowing your team to remain focused, disciplined and motivated as you evolve. CHANGE IS GOOD Endorse and welcome change. What worked yesterday may not provide the blueprint for tomorrow, so adapt and react and be receptive to new ideas. TAILOR MADE Open lines of communication encourage a close-knit team. Holding regular appraisals, and meetings are beneficial in helping your team achieve their goals, allowing for tailor-made opportunities to serve as individual motivators.
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business
STARTthe
CONVERSATION
Colin McAndrew, Managing Director of Medusa salon group in Scotland addresses another subject that is not just sensitive to women but their partners too and shares with us his own experience of the issues around fertility and how he intends to use this to help his salon team. In the previous issue I discussed the Menopause in the workplace and in my quest to continue challenging the salon culture and hopefully improve it, today I’m going to talk about fertility. This is a subject that is incredibly close to my heart, as my wife, Kate, and I have recently gone through two rounds of IVF. Sadly, neither round worked for us.
which can be taken at any point from when the embryo is transferred to the twelve week scan. By doing so, the employee can use the time to rest, process the experience or grieve the outcome should it not go as planned. It won’t interfere with holidays and hopefully allows the focus to be on the treatment, not the financial pressures attached to infertility.
As you can imagine, emotions are still fragile and I’m sure they will be for some time, possibly forever. Our treatments fell during lockdown and one of the things that came to us during the process was how hard it would be to fit in the injections and ad hoc appointments around work, especially in our industry.
I appreciate that some people may want to keep their fertility story private, and I fully respect that. I want to be able to help and support my team in the best way possible t and they know that when they speak with me it is in confidence. Equally, I want them to know that they are part of a team and we can lean on each other and support each other. I want them to know that when things in your personal life aren’t going to plan it’s ok to talk about it. Often we don’t know what to say around taboo subjects but I firmly believe that a simple “How’s it going?” or “Do you what to talk?” is always better than ignoring the situation. By opening up the conversation around fertility we can remove the heaviness surrounding the subject, and that can only be a good thing. I know this by vocalising our story.
One in every seven relationships will suffer from infertility and until last year it wasn’t on my radar but having gone through the experience I know firsthand the commitment required to take on such treatment. And I was the partner. It was Kate that had to have the scans, the injections, the medication. It is time consuming and exhausting in every way possible and while our outcome wasn’t what we had hoped, we do want to change the negative into a positive. At the Medusa Team Awards last month I announced a new Fertility Policy for the company. Anyone that opts for fertility treatment will be given flexible working days to allow for impromptu appointments that can’t be planned ahead of time. This will also give them the space to do the necessary temperature controlled injections in the comfort and privacy of their own home. We are also including two weeks full pay,
Since announcing the Fertility Policy the love and support we have received has been overwhelming. It won’t change the outcome for us but talking about it has helped with the healing. If Kate and I can use our story to better support our team members, and maybe in turn, your team members too, then I’ll take that as a win.
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business
FITfor BUSINESS Phil Smith tackles another of your tricky post-Pandemic business issues...
Call me old-fashioned but when I started out in hairdressing, I dreamed of owning my own salon and did everything to make that happen. Years later, I’m struggling to see the ambition in my young team and don’t know how to motivate them. Is ambition something that can be taught… Any tips?
PHIL SAYS:
“I could not agree with you more on this. The same as you, when I was starting out at the very beginning of my career, I was hungry to open salons, make money and be the best. My first job was at Raymond’s in Guildford, Surrey - a salon outlet of the infamous ‘Mr Teasy-Weasy’, who had a strict, old-school dedication to discipline. How diligently you scrubbed the toilets was the manager’s benchmark for quality in your work. A commitment to small details would translate to how well you cut hair. Even today, it’s a philosophy I live by. There’s nothing I would ask anyone to do that I don’t do myself. If you ever think you’re too important or too powerful to do the little jobs, you’ve lost it. I have a policy of recruiting new talent from grass roots and trust me, there is plenty of talent out there. But I have the same frustrations as you when I have to stop and ask, ‘where is the ambition?’ The things I’ve learnt to deal with this are as follows: EVERY SALON NEEDS A HERO Every salon needs a hero to emulate. I work in partnership with my wife Louise Smith’s TONI&GUY salon in Salisbury and we share resources and invest heavily in finding and nurturing talent. Both of our children have joined the respective companies and I’m proud to say that this approach had led to award-winning success. It’s not just our children we’re supporting, we have team members outside of our family who we’ve happily given opportunities to and who are establishing notable reputations in the hairdressing world. I have to say, this has sparked huge ambition in almost all of our other team members, They see how hard work and determination can pay off with big rewards and it make them hungry to follow. INVOLVE YOUR TEAM IN THE DETAIL I believe in involving everyone in the business so there is a feeling of ownership. Being open and trusting of others is how
you get the best from them. It is equally important to celebrate and motivate the individuals around you. I’m proud that at least 40 people who have worked with me have gone on to open their own salons. I never sugar coat the reality of running a salon – it’s hard work and success does not come easily. But I also make a point of showing the rewards it can bring. But there is no short cut – you have to put in the work. I think if someone can see a route map to success, they’re more likely to want to follow it. INVEST IN THE FUTURE The future of our industry relies on new stylists and technicians emerging from school leavers. This is the main reason I continue to be a strictly employed salon and I’m a firm advocate of recognising and training talent. The only way to survive is to educate. I wonder, what sort of educational opportunities do you offer? I tend to see my team most fired up when they’ve learnt something new. They’ll bring their excitement back to the salon and it feeds the whole team, not just one individual. Equally, I make sure that as a team, we travel to industry events as much as possible, such as awards, shows and exhibitions so that we can see the work that everyone is producing, get inspired, network and learn new skills. Everyone comes back sparking with ideas. SPOT THE CLUES AT THE INTERVIEW I’ve said this before, but for me, talent spotting has never been about who can do the best haircut. The right junior is always the one with the best attitude. I measure potential in staff by their conversation, work ethic, commitment, enthusiasm and initiative. I’d say you can tell almost instantly whether a recruit has what it takes to make it to the top. Ambition is always in that mix. Who is hungry to succeed? You can tell by the ones who don’t just want the flashy clothes and fast cars, it’s the ones who want awards for their hair and eventually lead glittering careers under their own names. A vital question to ask at the interview stage is ‘where do you see yourself in 10 years time?’ That should tell you everything you need to know.
To read Phil’s article in full click here
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CLIVE’S client CONFIDENTIAL Creating careers
If you want to keep your team members you need to offer them careers not just jobs, says Clive Collins, one of the founding directors of the hugely successful and award-winning HOB Salons.
PROMOTE LOYALTY
For those team members who demonstrate loyalty and commitment to our brand ethos we provide ongoing career progression. Every salon owner needs to communicate to their team that loyalty and hard work will be rewarded with career opportunity and the possibility of promotion. This is how you keep good staff. Within HOB, we have numerous team members who have grown with us, often starting as assistants and developing into senior roles, including managers and educators.
EMPOWERMENT THROUGH EDUCATION
Career building at HOB starts with education, with our training covering every element of hairdressing and working within a salon environment. Every salon owner should be aiming to create a team of hair experts. This way, you have the best possible people looking after your clients, and your team members feel empowered and driven.
BUILD STRONG FOUNDATIONS
Apprentices are a vital part of the HOB business. Through offering apprenticeships we are able to create salon-ready stylists who have already embraced the HOB ethos. While taking on apprentices is a big commitment, particularly for smaller salon businesses, at HOB, we definitely feel this investment pays off, and also creates strong foundations for a long and successful career within the group.
BESPOKE APPROACH
For apprentices that train at HOB, we go above and beyond the Hair Professional Standards. Every single apprentice we take on is viewed as a future colourist, stylist, salon manager or franchisee, and we tailor-make the training plan to suit each individual and their chosen pathway. We do not stop the training when they complete their apprenticeship, but continue teaching them up to HOB standard to safeguard and enhance their future career. Ongoing training aimed at the individual is definitely the best approach for any salon business looking to create a career path for their team members.
COMMUNICATION IS KEY
Regular one-to-one meetings with individual team members to discuss their career goals are a must. Make sure each team member feels they are being listened to and that you are helping them move towards achieving their ambitions. These meetings are also the time to address any gaps in education that could help that team member reach their objective. Obviously, as a business owner, you also have to ensure the needs of your salon or group are being met, so these one-to-one meetings are also the time to communicate this to team members and make them aware of how they can help the business evolve through using the experience and skills you have helped them achieve.
If you want a career with HOB Salons email clive@hobsalons.com to find out more.
CLIVE’S 5 TOP TIPS ONE Ensure all new team members are aware of what your brand values are and that by embracing them, they can expect a long and successful career with you.
TWO If you take on apprentices, go above and beyond to ensure they are salon-ready with clear career goals.
THREE Offer on-going education to all team members. This will make them feel valued and empowered to be the best they can be at their job.
FOUR Treat each team member as an individual with a bespoke career plan.
FIVE Ensure you maintain regular communication with each team member — career goals can change.
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business
THE mindful
HAIRDRESSER In the last of his series Sam Burnett of HARE & BONE discusses how to maximise mindfulness for YOU.
Mindfulness isn’t always easy. It’s a practice. Like running a marathon it takes dedication, thought and time. And when running a busy salon business it can be easy to let the practice slip. Living in the present can be hard when you’re distracted or drowning in work. Your fuse might shorten and patience might evaporate but coming back to the moment will provide clarity to the situation. It happens to me and when it does I don’t add pressure by berating myself. Instead, I take a deep breath, appreciate that I try my best and start again. In previous articles I’ve spoken about being mindful with your team, business, clients and when working on creative projects. Today I’m going to share some advice on how to maximise mindfulness for yourself. We all lead busy lives, with lots of daily demands and commitments. Often it can feel easier to keep on keeping on than to carve out time and connect with yourself. Creating space in our lives is essential if we are to stay physically, mentally and spiritually fit. One way to do so is to schedule some ‘white noise’ into your day. Choose a realistic period of time and block that out in your day. Use this time to clear the mind, meditate or do something that inspires you. Another more fluid option is to recognise when something isn’t working. When this happens I remove myself from the situation, challenge or thought, and change my focus. I walk away and wait until the solution consciously comes to me. I’ve started to realise that the solution presents itself when I’m feeling inspired. Life is not just effective all the time. It’s about being inspired and hopefully inspiring others. I actively look for inspiration every day, it’s all around us in nature, youth culture, textures, literature and art. When I feel stuck, inspiration allows the creative part of my mind to take over and this takes the pressure off the practical part and allows me to figure out the answer to the challenge.
Meditation is another way to build balance into the day. This does not require you to sit down, cross legged and chant. Meditation is classified as the act of focussing the mind on a particular object, thought or activity. When I see a full head highlights in the system I smile. I find this process meditative. Focusing purely on clean sections, balance and good tension is a form of meditation for me. I clear my mind, and go with the rhythm and flow of the technique. If I haven’t managed to get to a gallery, museum or park, if I’m not feeling inspired, then a full head highlights works the same. It encourages me to be present, to calm my emotions and clear my mind of everything other than the task in hand. Often this is when a solution presents itself. Mindfulness isn’t something that goes on your to-do list. It’s about adopting a healthier approach to your mindset. By actively trying to be mindful each day you will reduce internal noise and learn to understand how you work. This can only be a good thing for you and those around you. If you have at least seven minutes this month, my recommendations are; Watch; Brené Brown - The Call of Courage on Netflix. I’ve followed Brené for a while and have read her books, so when Netflix produced this show on one of the most viewed Ted Talks in the world I knew it would be a powerful watch. Listen; 7 Good Minutes podcast. The title says it all but this series is a collection of daily podcasts covering topics such as Believing in Yourself, Improving Leadership Skills, Shifting Your Mindset, Self-Discipline. Read; Happy Mind, Happy Life by Dr Rangan Chatterjee. I enjoy listening to his podcast and have ordered his new book, which offers 10 ways to feel great every day. Who doesn’t want that?
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40 YEARS OF HEADMASTERS CELEBRATING THE TEAM BEHIND AN AWESOME 40 YEARS IN THE HAIR INDUSTRY.
40 YEARS, 55 SALONS AND 800 TEAM MEMBERS IS CERTAINLY SOMETHING TO CELEBRATE, AND WHAT BETTER WAY TO DO SO THAN TO CREATE A COLLECTION THAT PUTS THE TEAM CENTRE STAGE, SHOWCASING THEM AS THE STARS BEHIND HEADMASTERS IN ALL-NEW CAMPAIGN.
ople. Headmasters is what it is because of its pe nt So we wanted to put them right at the fro for clients to see who we are and who makes it happen! Creative Director, Andrew Barton
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#weareheadmasters began with all 800 members of the Headmasters group being invited to apply to be in the photoshoot, and a shortlist of 30 were then invited to an X Factor-style audition to choose the final 12. “It was incredibly difficult to narrow it down from 30,” says Creative Director Andrew Barton. “We wanted to have different stories and careers, and levels from different salons within Headmasters and to really represent Headmasters and be our team heroes for the year.”
The lucky final 12 attended a two-day photoshoot with leading beauty and fashion photographer Jack Eames, who created the most beautiful collection of portraits which forms the basis of the new campaign, featuring in Headmasters salons, online and on social media.
The campaign, aptly named #weareheadmasters has launched in salons ahead of Headmasters’ offical birthday this month, when the whole team will come together for a big birthday party. “We can’t wait to celebrate our 40th year with the team,” says Chairman John Sanders, who co-founded the salon group with his wife Christine back in 1982, when they opened the now flagship Headmasters salon in Wimbledon Village. Check out the full #weareheadmasters campaign on page 54. From the team at Pro Hair, HAPPY BIRTHDAY HEADMASTERS! Watch the rs ste ma ad #wearehe e. campaign take shap
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It’s event season, the first real season we’ve had since 2019 and your clients are sure to have race days, festivals, proms, and maybe even their own weddings to attend. Of course, they’ll be coming to you to help them look their best, so we’ve spoken to our industry friends and collected tips and inspiration fit for every occasion.
JAMES EARNSHAW FOR GHD
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special
What’s on the menu? Creating a salon menu from colour to styling and occasion hair shares what he’s serving up this season.
BRIAN LEO McCALLUM At ROAR Hair and Beauty we want to stand out from the crowd. When creating the salon, I wanted to inspire guests to try something new, to embrace the luxurious experience of visiting a hair salon and to feel excited about their hair at each and every appointment. During the consultation you won’t hear ROAR stylists asking the guest if they’re happy to go for the same again. We treat every consultation as though it’s the first for the guest. We offer expert advice and opinions on what they could try and what could enhance their experience with their hair. As part of this, we create a quarterly colour menu, seasonal styling menus and even occasion hair menus. For us, our colour service menu is most important for a few different reasons. Firstly, it inspires our guests and shows them that as the experts, we are aware of new and emerging trends and able to give them a colour that reflects this. On our current menu we have lots of different colour services, including ROAR Mediterranean Mocha and ROAR Nordic Blonde. Not only do we include real guest pictures on our menu to demonstrate the different colours, we also include a brief description of each too. Naming and framing a colour makes it easy for guests to book in for that service. It makes their experience simpler and creates the feeling that they are receiving something that only your salon can offer. For example, with our Mediterranean Mocha colour option we are creating a brunette base with some caramel slices throughout. By creating a persona for it and naming and framing the colour
service, our guests believe it’s bespoke to ROAR Hair and Beauty. It helps create the illusion that your salon is the only place they can get this. It helps to set you apart from your competition and reinforces repeat bookings amongst your guests. Each quarter we also create our bespoke service menu. This includes services from ‘Tame your Mane’ to a ‘Quick Groom Session’. The description alongside each service ensures our guest knows exactly what to expect from their appointment. We include details on the consultation, any treatments included and finishing styling too. As with our colour menu this is updated each quarter to reflect current trends and refresh our offerings. In addition to our core menus for the salons, we also create bespoke occasion menus too. For example, our current styling menu is comprised of wedding hair including ROAR Bouncy Blowdries and Braiding. As well as ‘A Day at the Races’ which includes a nourishing treatment, styling of the guest’s choice including signature curls or a hair up and a complimentary glass of fizz. Guests often find it challenging to feel inspired when it comes to their hair. It’s our responsibility as the experts to inspire them and suggest small tweaks at each appointment to ensure they still love their hair and don’t feel they are just receiving the same old service each time. By creating a dedicated menu for colour, styling and cutting you can spark their interest again. You are providing pictures and descriptions and helping them to visualise what their new hair
could look like. In addition to this, it helps you to justify the price in the eye of your guests too. Typically, as hairdressers there is a stigma that we are guilty of not charging our worth and guests expecting prices to remain the same over the years. With our skills developing, product prices increasing and trends including balayage for example, we have a duty to charge correctly. In setting up profiles like this for your work, it makes this process easier and helps you to explain to your guests why you are charging that price for their service. Lastly, creating a bespoke menu is a great marketing and communication tool. It gives you something tangible to share with your guests via your website, social media and via email. You can create a newsletter showing your latest menu and give guests something to look forward to from your salon when it lands in their inbox. You can tell a story on social media and remind your guests and potential new guests that you are an expert in your area.
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SHEREE THOMPSON
For 2022 weddings we will see a lot of natural, soft and romantic styles being popular. This includes low, loose buns, relaxed waves that don’t look too over-styled and lots of braids, particularly incorporated into buns and half-up styles to give a unique and playful touch to the hairstyle, as well as loosely pinned on the head to create an effortless, boho inspired look. SABRINA DIJKMAN, ALTERNA AMBASSADOR
ULYANA.ASTER.BRIDAL
SHANNONSARABRIDALHAIR
BALMAIN
SHEREE THOMPSON
Here comes the bride You will be seeing a lot of low ponytails, again with small added touches of a twist or a braid or face
BALMAIN
CAROL RITCHIE
framing pieces. From sleek to curly, ponytails are such a timeless style that look stunning but also keep the hair out of the way for the day, so you can keep it classic and sleek or go all out boho. CAROL RITCHIE, MATRIX ARTIST
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special
BALMAIN
CAROL RITCHIE
CAROL RITCHIE
SHEREE THOMPSON
LOVEISINTHEHAIR_BYLIZ
We will be seeing oversized hair accessories, the bigger the better and ornate hair accessories from headbands to clips, and detailed embellished veils. In recent years a lot of our brides have done away with veils so this is why we will be seeing a major come back. CAROL RITCHIE, MATRIX ARTIST
LAURASLOOKBOOK
One of the popular themes amongst brides this summer is glamour. Think classic styles like the chignon but with a glam twist such as an embellished accessory or sweeping side parting. SHARON MALCOLM
Styles incorporating different braiding techniques are likely to be popular as well as messier styles like a boho inspired ponytail. SIMON HILL, OWNER OF SESH HAIRDRESSING
SHADES_AND_BRAIDS
You need to create a style that suits the neckline, but also the bone structure. If your client always wears her hair down, I wouldn’t suggest putting it up for SHARON MALCOLM
the wedding. Perhaps opt for a half up, half down, or create a beautiful wavy blow dry with accessories. The consultation is so important for the bride so you all know what the expectations are. Their hair should be comfortable and an extension of themselves. SHARON MALCOLM, SHARON MALCOLM HAIRDRESSING
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This year we will see client’s experiment with colour for upcoming festivals. Not only will clients inject colour through their hair through colour flashes, highlights, balayage and panels, but we will also see clients taking
JAMES EARNSHAW FOR GHD
NAKHAIR
their colour one step further and trying out the new tie dye hair colour trend. SUZIE MCGILL, ARTISTIC IGKHAIR
DIRECTOR, RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL
Festivals are all about big hair with lots of volume and that undone chic finish. Ensuring festival hair lasts throughout the weekend, JAMES EARNSHAW FOR GHD
preparation is key. Apply heat to the hair when styling to ensure the style lasts throughout the festival. Wave the hair in different directions when clean to create that beachy vibe. This will last for the first day or two of the festival before your client can then tie into a textured, boho inspired ponytail. JAY BIRMINGHAM, CELEBRITY HAIRDRESSER
JAYB.HAIR
Festivals are back for the summer of 2022 and it’s all about colour, playful styles and most importantly – FUN! With the Pantone Colour of the Year being Veri Peri, festivals are the perfect occasion to experiment with this stunning hue. For blondes, try a wash of pastel lilac for spring summer. Alternatively, brunettes could opt for a statement money piece with a violet edge. BRIAN LEO McCALLUM, OWNER OF ROAR HAIR AND BEAUTY
Turn up the music
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special CHRISTABEL LEGRAND
SABRINA DIJKMAN
For festivals braids are always on trend and this year we will see these incorporated into buns, within topknots and in half braid-half pony styles. We will also see many clients experimenting with bubble braids to give their hair a fun and quirky update. SABRINA DIJKMAN, ALTERNA AMBASSADOR
Festivals are such a colourful, free environment where people can truly embrace their individuality, and choosing a brighter hair colour can complete the look. For shorter hair I think trend colours will be buzzcuts, pink and neon tones even with some imprinted patterns. For longer hair we are seeing extreme panels of colour, big chunky sections or hidden panels being big trends. SABRINA DIJKMAN
CHRISTABEL LEGRAND, PULP RIOT ARTIST CHRISTABEL LEGRAND
For those who don’t want to wear braids in their hair, regular topknots and low sleek buns will be on trend, which are perfect for day two festival hair when the roots can start to look dirty. SABRINA DIJKMAN, ALTERNA AMBASSADOR
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GHD
GHD
JUDYRUBYSISTERS
For special occasions like proms and races, we will see more polished and BALMAIN
sleek hairstyles becoming popular, as well as hairstyles full of volume. Think classic chignons and soft voluminous waves that look ready
One look that we’re massively crushing on is the centre-parted, scraped back updo. Whether that’s lower around the nape, or worn high up on the crown,
Pass the Pimms
this is a style that can be worn on longer
for the red carpet. With sleek styles in particular, products are key. JOANA NEVES, EDITORIAL DIRECTOR AT ALTERNA EUROPE
or shorter hair. It’s a super versatile style. GABRIELLA AGRUSA, THE BLUSHES COLLECTIVE
BEAUTY_CENTAR_CHIARA
HH SIMONSEN
The Henley Regatta is a prestigious, glamorous affair and at Marc Antoni Hair, we often work with clients to get their hair Henley Regatta ready as it’s in the region of our salon. We CLOUD NINE
tend to see updo’s, glamorous blowdry’s and classic yet elegant styling. We always recommend a conditioning treatment pre any occasion like this. This helps the hair appear luscious, strong and shiny, no matter what the style. DAFNI
BRUNO MARC, JOICO AMBASSADOR FOR EUROPE, THE UK AND IRELAND
BALMAIN
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Continuing our creative collaboration, the mega-talented Desmond Murray once more takes up the creative mantle of art directing another up-and-coming young stylist to produce some more stunning imagery exclusively for Professional Hairdresser.
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ART DIRECTOR “I’ve loved every minute of working with these young, talented people – it never fails to amaze me how they beautifully ‘twist’ the initial concept in order to call it their own. It was fun to work with Dean who brought a very worthy skill set to the studio.” @desmondmurray
GUEST HAIRDRESSER “It was a really great opportunity to work with Desmond Murray and to learn first-hand how he goes about working in a studio, from lighting right through to styling. Invaluable.” @clipso
MAKE-UP ARTIST Award-winning Lauren Mathis is no stranger to the hair world – her makeup skills have contributed to a multitude of award-winning shoots. @laurenmathismua
PHOTOGRAPHER Chris Bulezuik is no stranger to the hairdressing scene having secured several award wins for the role he played in creating the imagery. @chrisbulezuikphotography
FASHION STYLIST Amelia has worked in the fashion industry for three years working for Vivienne Westwood and Karen Millen doing both design and styling. Being a stylist, Amelia Nevitt likes to showcase new or student designs as she believes it’s vital to showcase new talent as this is where the future of fashion is. @amelianevittstyling
MODELS @thehairdesk
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Étoile
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Tara Smith, Secrets hairdressing
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Amber Webster & Warren Wilde, Urban Hair
Mel Ferlisi & Richard Bennett, 77 The Hill
Creative Director Suzie McGill for Schwarzkopf Professional Lights, Camera! Action! course Make-up Maddie Austin Stylist Clare Frith Photography Jack Eames
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Chloe Andrews, Julian’s Hair
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Ludovic Jehanno, Mikael & Ludovic
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Alessio aldassarri Baldassarri & Stephanie Grey, La Medusa
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David Corbett
“I wanted to create hair with a late 70s, early 80s vibe which is more feminine than the on-trend mullet, but where the hair wasn’t long enough for a wolf cut.” David Corbett
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Hair David Corbett at David Corbett Hairdressing, Bothwell, Glasgow Make-up Maddie Austin Styling Claire Frith Photography Michael Young
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HEAD MASTERS Hair Headmasters Art Team Make up Lan Nguyen-Grealis Styling Clare Frith Photography Jack Eames Creative Director Andrew Barton
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1. CURL CARE
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EveryGreen’s Curly Hair range tackles the most common curly hair bug-bears such as straw-like frizz, lack of curl definition and volume, with super lightweight formulas. Comprising three products, Curly Shampoo, Curly Conditioner and Curly Serum, the trio uses Camellia oil, Red Brown Algae extract and Sesame oil to hydrated, healthy curls and scalp. www.rdr.link/HL008
2. LIQUID LIFE
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Davines OI Liquid Luster is a fast-acting, liquid rinse-out treatment that visibly transforms hair in a single use. It’s as light as water, ultra-quick and utilises ingredients of natural origin to give hair unprecedented shine and softness. www.rdr.link/HL009
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3. POWER CLEANSE
KMS Cleansing Mist is a convenient non-aerosol spray that neutralises odours, absorbs oils and removes styling product residues and environmental pollutants from the hair and scalp without leaving behind white residues. www.rdr.link/HL010
4. ENHANCED EXTENSIONS
Rapture Hair Extensions has unveiled three new aftercare products to help further enhance its professional portfolio. Consisting of a Texturising Tonic, Extension Enhancing Mask and Brass Be Gone Duo, the new products are designed for professional salons and are not only cruelty-free but also vegan, responsibly packaged and dermatologically tested. www.rdr.link/HL011
5. LUMINOUS LUXURY
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The Illuminating Mask Silver Pearl from Balmain Paris has a strong neutralising affect for desired cool tones while the Illuminating Mask White Pearl creates a classic champagne blonde. With a blend of natural ingredients such as Cocos oil and Gardenia Flower Extract, both new masks work to protect, strengthen and hydrate blonde hair. www.rdr.link/HL012
6. TOTAL REPAIR
THESE NEW PRODUCTS HAVE JUST
DROPPED
Mistify is a fresh way to use INNOluxe to repair your colour client’s hair. Especially great for clients having balayage, highlights or root application where the rest of the uncoloured hair needs to be treated too, Mistify lets you apply exactly the right concentration of ReBond to the rest of your client’s hair while their colour gets to work. www.rdr.link/HL013
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7. SHINE BRIGHT
R+Co GEMSTONE Ultra Shine Glossing Treatment has an opalescent, rich crème formula that provides deep hydration, enriches colour and seals damaged cuticles so that hair reflects light like glass. It promises vibrant, fresh, salon-like colour and super shiny hair that’s UV protected. www.rdr.link/HL014
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8. ARTIST TOOLS Loved for its quality build and iconic styling pin design along with its ability to combine speed, comfort and control, the Denman D38 detangles, defines curls and push-dries with ease. The new ‘Splash’ colourway is only available to professional customers and has been designed to celebrate the artist in every stylist and colourist. www.rdr.link/HL015
9. AT THE ROOT
Zen Hair has introduced three new Root Drag colours exclusively to its Luxury Series; a dark blonde ash root blended into a white ash blonde, an ash brown root blended into a subtle pearlised ash blonde and a dark brown root blended into a soft honey ash blonde. The carefully selected hair is double-drawn and made out of the finest 100% virgin remy hair to ensure the extensions perform exactly like a client’s natural hair. www.rdr.link/HL016
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10. SMOOTH OPERATOR
AVEDA’s new and improved Smooth Infusion collection provides protection against frizz and humidity for a smooth, sleek finish that lasts for up to 72 hours. Even the most frizz-prone hair is instantly transformed with an advanced plant-powered technology that protects all hair with the collection’s multi-benefit stylers. www.rdr.link/HL017
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11. STELLA STRIPS Paying homage to the globally adored common pet, the canine, Foil Me’s latest offering in collaboration with Mark David of the UK’s Mark David Salon, the Stella is an artful fusion of Art Deco and pop art design which will have salons barking up conversation. It’s available in four different strip widths. www.rdr.link/HL018
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12. BLONDE BOND
Indola’s new and improved Blonde Expert Care now has Hair-Bond Technology integrated in all formulas to help create new bonds deep inside the hair fibre. The collection is split into two ranges: InstaStrong is for strengthening and shine-enhancing while InstaCool is pigmented for neutralising and maintaining cool blonde shades. www.rdr.link/HL019
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g n i k l a t t h g i stra For clients that want maximum control over their hair and love poker straight and well defined locks, consider putting this on your salon treatment menu. The Alisa treatment infuses luxury with practicality offering five hair enhancing benefits: 쎲 Improves daily management of hair. 쎲 Changes hair texture. 쎲 Repairs structure where necessary. 쎲 Enhances brilliance and shine. 쎲 Protects against humidity. The kit includes the Pre Straightening Fluid, Straightening Shampoo, Super Straightening Shampoo, Restore Shampoo and Restore Butter. Each product contains diamond dust; sought after in the cosmetic industry because of its physical structure. Microcrystals in the products intensify the refraction of light, producing a brilliant intensity we love to see in healthy hair to create a luminous effect.
Develop your taming and straightening skills with the Sens.Us Alisa kit.
The Alisa Diamond Blow -dry Service adds th at something ex tra for clients who want an additional feel and look of lu xury: A fast and easy upgrade that will delight your client and add revenu e for the salon in just 10 minutes.
“I have wavy, curly hair, and felt it was a great top up between my naturally straight treatments! The diamond blow dry made my hair smooth, and more manageable. Fabulous results for a treatment that takes the maximum time of 10 mins! A ‘must have’ for any salon treatment menu.” Sara Lindfield – Co Owner of Aspects Hair Designers & Beauty House, Hastings.
The Sens.Us ALISA Kit is exclusively distributed at Passion4hair Ltd. Shop Sens.Us visit here www.rdr.link/HL020
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spotlight
JOIN THE REFILLUTION RECYCLING IS ESSENTIAL – but what’s even more vital is refilling!
W
ith re-usable water bottles and coffee cups a growing responsible norm, consumers need to continue the momentum for a behavioural change when it comes to the issue of single use plastics. AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT believes that refilling can, and should be part of our every day practises and, after a successful pilot phase, can now offer a new generation of the Refill Bar – a refill system that helps to create a more circular economy – benefitting the environment, the client and the salon.
WHAT ARE THE FACTS? The AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT Refill Bar not only looks beautiful with its simple and minimalistic design, but it also uses recyclable 5L bottles made from 50% PCR plastic with reusable pumps and recyclable Forest Film labels. Each 250ml retail bottle can also be reused at least five times, generating a saving of 83% less plastic**.
The brand’s new version of the Refill Bar has options for a smaller unit to provide a more flexible approach, suitable for even more salons. This unique service and retail approach is a clear way to upgrade a salon when it comes to sustainability, setting it apart as the destination for eco-friendly, premium refill, whilst growing client loyalty and meeting the needs of consumers making more conscious lifestyle choices.
HOW DOES THE REFILL BAR WORK? The idea is simple – bring your bottle back and #doyourbit for the environment. After an expert consultation, salon clients will receive their prescribed AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT product(s) in a 250ml retail bottle made from 90% Post-Consumer Recycled (PCR) plastic. The bottles also come with Forest Film labels (the first wood-based film label material in the market, certified by ISCC*). Once they’ve used it all up, the bottle doesn’t go into the bin, or even the recycling – instead, it’s brought back to the salon to be refilled and the cycle starts again #everyrefillcounts.
“Authenticity, honesty and transparency are part of our core DNA. We are COMMITTED to contributing to a circular economy and being MINDFUL of our footprint, continuously working on our packaging, ingredients and social impact – because we truly CARE about our beautiful planet.”
TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE REFILL BAR, THE BRAND AND THE PRODUCTS VISIT WWW.RDR.LINK/HL021 *International Sustainability and Carbon Certification (a certification standard for all kinds of bio-based feedstocks and renewables) **(vs buying 6 standard Authentic Beauty Concept 250ml bottles).
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spotlight
COMPLETE COLOUR Introducing the latest additions to GOLDWELL’S number one colour care line, Dualsenses.
Meet the new members of Goldwell’s colour portfolio that reinforce the brand’s “instant care” approach to looking after colour-treated hair. These products expand Goldwell’s blockbuster Color Revive and Color Care segments, each specifically formulated to help maintain and refresh salon coloured hair.
DUALSENSES SILVER CONDITIONER: Detangles unruly strands immediately and neutralises unwanted yellow tones. Instantly refines cool effects. Designed for grey hair. DUALSENSES SILVER 60SEC TREATMENT: This high performing hair treatment regenerates hair instantly by up to 100% in 60 seconds and neutralises unwanted yellow tones. The treatment also instantly refines cool effects. Designed for grey hair.
COLOR REVIVE COLOR GIVING SHAMPOO AND COLOR REVIVE COLOR GIVING CONDITIONER: These colour-giving essentials are expanding Goldwell’s colour range, with even more colour options that are specifically developed for your client’s unique shade. With four brand new shampoo formulas and two expanded conditioner shades, there’s an option for nearly every tone, from cool blonde to vivid copper. The new products beautifully complement Goldwell’s colour portfolio and are perfect for intensifying beautiful salon colour at home or during a service. The Color Revive assortment includes: New: Color Revive Shampoos: Cool Blonde, Cool Brown, Cool Red, Copper PLUS Color Revive Conditioners: Light Cool Blonde, Icy Blonde, Cool Brown, Cool Red, New Neutral Brown and New Copper.
DUALSENSES COLOR REPAIR & RADIANCE BALM: This leave-in protective balm provides instant results you can easily see and feel. Perfect for all hair types and tones, it provides outstanding colour brilliance, supports the bond protein network, reduces split ends by up to 99%, provides protection against environmental pollutants and protects hair colour effectively against UV light.
FIND OUT MORE AT VISIT WWW.RDR.LINK/HL022
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HOW DID YOU DECIDE ON THE STYLE OF YOUR SALON INTERIOR?
I wanted a chic environment to work in, and for the premises NOT to look like a hair salon… more like a 5-star boutique hotel. Making sure there was ample space for the team and clients was a priority, as was storage. To reflect the hotel feel, all hairdressing equipment is hidden from our styling stations, and we used my favourite colour palettes of black, gold and white for a sophisticated finish WHERE DID YOU FIND THE INSPIRATION FOR YOUR DESIGN?
As we were trying to avoid the typical feel of a salon, we took our inspiration mainly from beautiful homes and hotel interiors. DID YOU USE AN INTERIOR DESIGNER?
VISIT INANCH Inanch has the enviable central London location in the heart of Fitzrovia, making the salon a favourite for celebrities visiting the neighbouring TV and radio studios, as well as for the wealth of upmarket offices, retailers and hospitality venues in surrounding Fitzrovia. The salon is led by INANCH EMIR, who has been an influential hairdresser for over 25 years and has made her mark in the British Hairdressing industry in the specialised field of hair extensions.
I mainly did it myself, with the help of a client who is an architect. DESCRIBE THE VIBE CREATED BY YOUR INTERIOR.
Calming, welcoming and private. WHAT DO YOU HOPE IS YOUR CLIENTS’ FIRST IMPRESSION WHEN THEY WALK IN?
That it has an inviting ambience.
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salon profile
TELL US WHAT ARE THE KEY ELEMENTS OF YOUR SALON DESIGN?
We start with a welcoming reception with a grand chandelier that sets the scene for what is to be expected as you step further inside – namely that you are walking into a classy boutique. In the main salon area, the feel is bright and airy, and there’s ample space for each client with our styling positions that are now separated by glass dividers. DO YOU HAVE ANY CURATED PIECES OR SPECIAL FEATURES/AREAS IN THE SALON?
Our separate backwash room has been designed to create a very calming and relaxing atmosphere – more like a spa experience. We also now have our private hair treatment room and beauty room downstairs, again creating a calming and relaxing ambience. HOW HAVE YOU EMBRACED SUSTAINABILITY WITHIN THE DESIGN?
Not so much with the design but we have switched to biodegradable towels, which allowed us to get rid of our laundry room. WHAT SALON SOFTWARE DO YOU USE AND WHAT FEATURE DO YOU FIND MOST USEFUL?
DID YOUR PRODUCT BRAND/COLOUR HOUSE INFLUENCE YOUR STYLE OF INTERIOR DESIGN?
No, not really – although we designed our own Colour Bar in the lower ground level which clients can see as they walk down. WHAT SALON FURNITURE HAVE YOU CHOSEN AND WHY?
We have a mixture of Welonda chairs and Takara Belmont backwash units. We went for comfort and compact units in order to create more space. DO YOU HAVE DRESS CODE/UNIFORM FOR YOUR TEAM?
We request that the team wear dark, plain colours. Our assistants also wear Inanch branded T-shirts or shirts.
After 16 years being with the same salon software company, we recently decided to switch to Phorest Software. We have been using it for three months now, and are very happy with it. The features that we most like include staff being able to view their columns from their own phones, staff being noticed by text message when their clients have arrived and from a marketing perspective, all clients now receive an e-mail after their visit with a request for a Google review. We are also offering online booking for our standard appointments.
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hairdressers at home Cited as ‘the one to watch’, multi award-winning Danilo Giangreco bases himself at his Chelsea salon.
best book Breaking the habit of being yourself My favourite book is usually the last one I have read! I’ve just finished reading “Breaking the habit of being yourself” by Doctor Joe Dispenza, which contains some mind boggling concepts that I am still digesting. In the last year I have been listening to books while driving or relaxing at home, through the Audible app, I find it a great way of learning, rather than reading physically, which I don’t have enough time to do!
best films Where do I start? Can I give you three at least? I’m a film lover…I still own over a 1000 DVDs….I know…don’t judge me! I’ll give you three titles:
Forrest Gump: “Life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you are going to get.” So true!
Amelie: I love the imaginative way she sees the world and her mission to spread joy. Also the music by Yann Tiersen is just divine!
Fight Club: Well… first rule of Fight Club, never talk about Fight Club.
best podcast The Joe Rogan Experience “The Joe Rogan Experience” by American comedian and presenter Joe Rogan. I love the fact that he has a variety of guests on his podcasts, from top athletes to comedians like Kevin Hart or geniuses like Elon Musk, which makes the podcast fun, always very interesting and never repetitive. Also I love how, although they sometimes discuss very important topics, Joe never gets too philosophical and doesn’t lecture!
best magazine Beauty Papers Love it or hate it!
best art exhibition The Van Gogh Experience It’s got to be The Van Gogh Experience: The bright colours and the unusual way of painting, everything is just beautiful. Also getting to know a bit about his complex personality made the exhibition memorable.
best box set Game of Thrones Drama, sex, action, fantasy… The best and most unpredictable series, ever!!!
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