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APRIL 2021
Professional APRIL 2021
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Ready & Waiting APRIL 2021
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At the time of writing, there are just a few more agonising weeks to go until salons can re-open. As you wait in anticipation of welcoming your clients back through your doors, think about whether you are truly ready to go. Yes, you have everything in place for a safe and secure re-opening (you’re well versed in this bit now), but during these last lingering weeks of lockdown just make sure you have tackled all your business challenges, no matter how tough, head on. You need to be at the top of your business game when you re-open those doors, feeling safe in the knowledge that you have done everything possible to survive. This month, we wanted to give you more business food for thought – looking at issues and questions that are being hotly debated right now from legal questions to colour testing. Salon owners and experts share with you advice and insights on what the re-opening future will look like so please take time to read what they have to say while you can because come 12th April you are going to BE BUSY! We want to wish you all ‘Good Luck’ for a safe and successful re-opening!
COVER:Robert Eaton PHOTOGRAPHY: Richard Miles
@ProHairMag @ProHairMag
Editor Nicola Shannon nshannon@hamerville.co.uk Assistant Editor
27 PAUL FALLTRICK
REGULARS 6
Megan Danskine
28 NOCO
NEWS Industry goings on
32 3 SALON OWNERS 34 PHIL JACKSON
mdanskine@hamerville.co.uk Digital Manager Rebecca Mcgeoch rmcgeoch@hamerville.co.uk Designer Donna Booth Group Production Manager Carol Padgett Production Assistant Claire Swendell Publisher Bryan Shannon Group Sales Manager Oliver Shannon oshannon@hamerville.co.uk
PEOPLE 9
HOOKER & YOUNG With industry friends
14 CONTENT CREATION WITH... BaByliss PRO’s Ky Wilson 16 TALENT SPOTTING With Pauline McCabe 18 CONQUERING COLOUR With Clayde Baumann
22 PHILIP RICHARDSON 26 ALEC COLSON
36 CREATING A COLLECTION With Tony Haresign
FASHION
60 SPOTLIGHT On DIVA Pro Styling 61 SPOTLIGHT On Schwarzkopf Professional OSiS+
COLOUR
38 ON TREND COLLECTIONS
62 COLOUR CLOSE-UP Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Royal
PRODUCTS
64 COLOUR CLOSE-UP Revlon Professional
56 What’s New
BUSINESS 25 DEBBIE DIGBY
Professional Hairdresser, Hamerville Media Group Ltd, Regal House, Regal Way, Watford, Herts, WD24 4YF. Phone: 01923 237799 Fax: 01923 246901
35 CAROLINE SANDERSON
59 SPOTLIGHT On L’Oréal Professionnel
57 TIMEHOP With Takara Belmont 58 SPOTLIGHT On Easydry
66 GO-TO APPS What you’re clicking on... 67 LAST WORD The ED-it
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THE LATEST FROM THE INDUSTRY
Slick scales up Slick, the salon software start up announces huge expansion plans. Slick, the hair and beauty start up backed by L’Oréal and Founders Factory, has announced a $1.7M fund raised to help it accelerate the growth of its salon software and booking platform in the post-lockdown world. With 65% of UK salons still using a paper diary and less than 15% of bookings being made online, COVID-19 has shown the importance of digitalising the client experience in the hair and beauty industry. On average, salons adopting Slick from a paper diary have seen a 25% increase in revenue as they fill empty slots and win new clients. With Slick, salons can manage their entire business from an iPad whether at home or the salon. Tools such as marketing and online booking help grow the business whilst contactless payments and consultation forms help salons operate safely and securely post lockdown. YOU CAN FIND OUT MORE ABOUT SLICK AT WWW.RDR.LINK/HZ001
NEÄL & WØLF LAUNCHES EXCLUSIVE SALON AFFILIATE PROGRAMME.
Redefining retail Professional hair care brand, Neäl & Wølf is on a mission to redefine retail with the launch of its new salon affiliate programme. Designed to complement its in-salon retail offering, the affiliate programme is a win-win for both clients and salons. Clients can now purchase their much-loved Neäl & Wølf products online, whilst staying loyal to their favourite salon. Exclusively available for free to Neäl & Wølf stockists, participating salons receive a unique referral link or discount code when signing up to the scheme, to share across their social media platforms, email and website to help support their sales with clients
virtually. In doing so, salons are rewarded with 25% commission on every sale, with no limit as to how many times the links can be used. Founder of Neäl & Wølf, Neil Capstick, says, “We are delighted to launch our new affiliate programme exclusively available to Neäl & Wølf stockists. At a time when salons have been forced to close their doors in lockdown and with clients shifting towards online shopping for salon products, we wanted to adapt to affirm our solidarity and continue to support the industry we love. In doing so, we hope salons can come back stronger than ever.”
Matrix meets the world THE GLOBAL HAIRDRESSING COMMUNITY COMES TOGETHER FOR MATRIX SYNERGY 2021. Over 3000 hairdressers from across the globe tuned in for M-Day, the relaunch of Matrix as part of the Global Synergy Event. Compere and Head of Worldwide Matrix Education, Alfredo Lewis, welcomed a myriad of Matrix artists to celebrate the exciting new chapter for Matrix which included a brand new look, feel and philosophy for the future. With an audience from Russia to India and Australia to Austria, one united community came together to watch some 36 classes across four stages. International artists gathered on the virtual rainbow carpet to find out more about the re-imagined Matrix, starting a new beginning for the brand. Whether it was business tips and motivation from some of the most successful salon owners in the industry, to simple step-by-step formulas for creating commercial colour for clients and discussing the diversity of hair texture and its potentials and pitfalls,
6 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER
there was something for every salon owner, stylist or freelancer. UK ambassador Lisa Farrall was interviewed by Alfredo Lewis about working as a freelancer and session stylist. When discussing starting her career and being turned down for work, she said: “Knowledge is power and Matrix is the first brand that embraced me for being me. They embrace freelancers, salons owners, session stylists, if you work from home or in a salon. It’s about embracing your individuality and working with a brand that works for you. When you don’t feel like you belong anywhere, Matrix celebrates everything you have to offer.”
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Statement of support Hair & Beauty Charity records 227% increase in requests for financial support.
We invite you to fill out our reader survey, so we can get to know you and what you want to see in the pages of Professional Hairdresser. It should only take two minutes of your time, and to thank you for getting involved we’ll enter you into a draw to win a magnum of champagne!
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the beneficiaries we are helping with financial support still may not qualify for the new self-employed support as many were self-employed in July 2020 either by losing their jobs or having their employment status altered. We have ring-fenced funds to continue supporting them.” “Further, the news that the sector’s lobbying for a VAT reduction to 5% has not been accepted will also affect salon owners who have been significantly impacted with almost nine months of salon closure. This cut was previously awarded to the hospitality sector and has now been extended, despite the hair and beauty industry being 1/3 of the size and VAT paying salons employing half of all those people working in the sector. The charity is still very much a lifeline for our industry and will continue to help those in financial need as we have for over 180 years,” concludes Samantha. TO DONATE VISIT:
Professional
In its latest budget statement, the official charity of our industry, the Hair & Beauty Charity, released its current support figures. During 2020, the charity saw an extraordinary 148% increase in requests for help and increased the financial contributions to those in the hair and beauty industry by 70%. “Since the third lockdown this January, we have seen a worrying 227% increase in requests for financial support during January and February, based year on year. Even after today’s announcement and the 12th April opening date in the roadmap, we know that our support will be required for months to come,” explains Hair & Beauty President Samantha Grocutt. “The budget announcement has some positive news for our beneficiaries – especially those who were self-employed in 2019 and have been part of the three million who have fallen through the net of government financial support to date. Approximately 62.5%* of the professional industry is working in a self-employed capacity. Our charity has been vital to support for them, so we’re pleased that there is now financial support available for those who need it and who meet the requirements for qualifying. However, we also know that many of
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Together we are stronger
20 years of good hair days
– One mission – One voice!
ghd celebrates its 20th anniversary with an exclusive launch. In celebration of 20 years of good hair days, iconic design, life-changing technology, catwalk hairstyles and professional expertise – cult British hair tool brand ghd (good hair day) is launching the exclusive limited-edition Couture collection. Merging science and innovation, with luxury beauty and style, ghd pioneers new technologies and beautiful designs to create the most technically advanced hair tools in the world. Developed by leading scientists in the dedicated ghd R&D laboratories in Cambridge, ghd tools deliver safer for hair heat styling and have become an essential part of the
daily lives of hair stylists and women globally. A trusted and loved brand, ghd sells two million stylers every year and five iconic ghd products are sold every minute. The brand has won over 300 beauty awards for its ground-breaking tools which maintain a consistent heat of 185ºC – the optimum temperature for heat styling – for ultimate results without compromising the health of hair. And if that isn’t something to celebrate, we don’t know what is! Take home a piece of ghd’s hair-itage with the Couture collection, available now in salons, stores and online.
n o o g t s u m w o h s The KAO SALON ANNOUNCES ITS GLOBAL CREATIVE AWARDS WILL GO AHEAD THIS YEAR.
For stylists the Global Creative Awards are a chance to show their full creativity without any limitations. KAO Salon is pleased to announce that even in these uncertain times, the Awards will go on with some small changes. Global Creative Director John Moroney has revealed that for 2021 the Editorial categories will be open as a photo-only competition, The Creative Colorist of the Year and Haircutter of the Year categories will be postponed due to the inability to host a live competition, but the New Talent Colorist of the Year category will become photo-only. John commented: “Of course, our intention was to find a way to host the live competition as well, but unfortunately with the uncertain situation this was not possible for this year. But we especially believe in these times that it is the time to show the world that creativity never stops.”
THE HAIR & BARBER COUNCIL (HBC) TOGETHER WITH SALON OWNERS UNITED (SOU) ARE FORMING A COLLABORATION TO FURTHER STRENGTHEN AND AMPLIFY THE VOICE OF HAIR PROFESSIONALS AND BARBER PROFESSIONALS THROUGHOUT THE UNITED KINGDOM. Campaigning amongst other things for mandatory registration of the industry, the Hair & Barber Council represents 10,500 registered members, Associate and Corporate members, and together with Salon Owners United 5,500 members, will work closely together to ensure the voice of our sector is heard.
Keith Conniford, Registrar and CEO of the Hair & Barber Council said: “We are delighted to be working closely with Collette Osborne and the members of Salon Owners United who share the same passion and mission to ensure our sector attains the professional status it both needs and deserves. Based upon mutual aims and trust, with no agenda other than the betterment of our great industry, our joint aim is this collaboration will grow and become more formal in the months to come. Our industry has been hugely impacted by Coronavirus, and never before has the industry needed a more united voice for all our professionals.”
Collette Osborne of Salon Owners United said: “If the pandemic has done anything it has exposed the fault lines and weaknesses in our industry, so I believe if we are to recover stronger, we need to have one collective voice, which we can use to invoke the change much needed to provide us with a sustainable future. “I am delighted to be working alongside Keith Conniford for whom I have the utmost respect both personally and professionally and through our collaboration I can honestly say we will work tirelessly for the hair and barbering industry just as Keith has done for many years.”
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PEOPLE
SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL INTERNATIONAL AMBASSADORS
HOOKER AND YOUNG
CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HZ004
In anticipation of salons planning their ‘return to work’ we thought it a great idea to catch up with some of hairdressing’s leading names – all salon owners, and all who have previously featured in our ‘In Conversation With’ series. We have all definitely been through tough times together, although for many it can feel that you’re on your own and isolated in your personal situation. In these conversations we get to ask the important questions that we’re all feeling and in doing so we are united in our mission to get back on top!
In Conversation
with... PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 9
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to an unknown situation – being prepared to make changes and going with the flow – it’s about hard work, keeping our cool and knowing that we will get through it.
Sally Brooks
How do you think salon businesses will be affected by the months of closure? I think as salon owners we are all apprehensive about what we are walking back into when we re-open – it feels like we are starting again! For me, it’s really important that we are energised, excited and motivated to walk back through our doors and lead our teams with the right state of mind. In the six weeks leading up to re-opening I’ll be working closely with some of our team – developing ideas, education, and forward thinking planning so that not only I’m mentally prepared but also my team. I feel like we may be walking into a busy few weeks and then the hellish drop off that we experienced before - but who knows? The long-term effects for us are going to be about adapting
What are your hopes and fears for the future? My hopes for the future are... ● that there will be positive changes in the industry, and we will all be there to support one another. ● that the new normal will work for us all and that our clients will value the service that we as professionals deliver. ● that there are exciting platforms to keep pushing this industry forward and that we can continue to value the word ‘TEAM’ and promote the ‘salon’ hairdresser that is key to the world of hairdressing. My fears are... ● that we find a lot of potentially incredible artists dropping away from the industry who are not being given enough of a platform for them to develop as artists. ● that the number of followers that people have on Instagram is going to take away from talent.
Adam Reed
How are you preparing mentally? I have tried to maintain positivity throughout all of the lockdowns, but this one has been harder. It’s definitely made me reassess what I was doing prior to when all this happened and what I am prepared to do moving forward – ‘balance’ is the word that I will be using. I am going to think about me and my needs and balance those with the needs of my team and my clients. I say “start as you mean to go on”. Has the long period of closure given you a different perspective on how you will work and the pressure you put yourself under? Without a doubt I will be kinder to myself, I will no longer say “yes” to everything and I will prioritise my value. If what I am doing is not being appreciated, then I will stop whatever that is immediately. I feel that I will then value myself a lot more.
Tim Scott Wright
Do you think lockdown will drive more stylists into becoming ‘self-employed’ and stepping away from salons? I’m nervously excited about returning to work, the daunting task that comes with these re-openings is always tough at the start, but once we’re back in pedalling away, I know we will be fine. I really hope that this is the last time we have to do this as it can be soul destroying for us all. I do have concerns mainly about the industry as a whole, in terms of how employed salons can continue going forward if we have any more lockdowns. I worry that such devastating times will put pressure on many salon owners to move their business model to a self-employed model. The last year has been such a headache for all of us salon owners/employers and it would be a massive shame for this to happen as we’re the ones who really invest in credible and high-end training with the best educators. I’ve seen too much of ‘sub-standard’ education online whilst we’ve been in lockdown. I can’t wait to get our lives back on track now, to start and rebuild all working relationships on a personal level. How do you plan to get your team back on track in terms of education? The team are all feeling excited, but again have trepidation about coming back. So, we are doing Zoom meetings to kind of let everyone touch base with each other – we have already been discussing the changes to be made in learning from the last two returns to work, which makes life easier for us all. When we return on the 12th we’ll be in the salon, but having a team building day - so no clients. As well as implementing any changes to training, this is also a chance for team to get their own hair done, have a pizza and just really reconnect.
Ken Picton
How do you prepare the team for re-opening after a long period of closure? This return is an interesting one. The first time we returned we were all entering the unknown – this time, while I don’t feel there’s quite as much anxiety from the team, I still think there’s a bit of nervousness around going back because we know we’re going to be rammed. Now that’s great, but when you’re trying to create a wonderful experience for your clients while having to work under the pressures of PPE and back-to-back appointments all day every day – it is tough! I think this lockdown has been tougher for the team because they’ve been struggling to stay motivated and stay engaged – it’s been a long, drawn-out period of not knowing. I think they’re a little bit nervous about what’s facing them when they do go back. However, it’s a means to an end and all of these emotional feelings of anxiety and concern will be short-term – we will come out the other side stronger with more stability and without the fear of future lockdowns looming.
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PEOPLE
Robert Eaton
Do you think the long periods of closure we’ve endured will affect apprentice education in salons? It’s totally understandable for young people in the hair industry to feel nervous about returning to work – they’ve had such a long time away from the salon environment in what is a crucial time in their career. It’s so important that salon owners protect their apprentices and do their best to make the return to salon life as smooth as possible. Apprentices are the future of our industry, and we can’t lose sight of this and leave them behind. After each lockdown, the more established stylists have been able to bounce back as they already have a loyal client base, whereas some of the younger ones haven’t got that and they’re reliant on finishing their training and getting busy in the salon to build their clients up. It’s been a tough year for a lot of businesses, and salon owners have had to make some really difficult decisions, and sadly apprentices have been affected in terms of job losses and a lack of job opportunities. We have really encouraged our apprentices
to use lockdown to educate themselves as much as possible. There is so much free educational available, not only from manufacturers, but also from established industry professionals via social media and platforms like The Knowledge, from The Fellowship of British Hairdressing, that there’s no excuse not to learn. Apprentices will never have an opportunity like this again to upskill, which will mean they can return to the salon with the skills and motivation to kickstart their career in the best possible way. In a funny way, lockdown DIY hair colours and cuts have been a great opportunity for apprentices to learn advanced techniques in colour correction! There’s never been so many dodgy box dyes to correct, so apprentices are learning some really valuable skills post lockdown! What do you hope for the future? I really hope that we all get back to a consistent way of working – the ups and downs of lockdown has been really difficult.
Bruno Marc Do you think as an industry, there will be any long-term financial impact from the multiple lockdowns? 100% we are going to feel long-term damage to our business. Firstly – we are never going to recoup the losses and so many hair and beauty businesses will be returning with a financial debt to carry. Thousands of hair and beauty salons have already gone bust because of this. When we return as in previous lockdowsn we will have two to three weeks of a boom in business, but then normality kicks in – with less foot fall, meaning fewer clients due to the state of the high street and there’s definitely been an increase in ‘home hairdressing’ which also drives clients away from the salon. When you look at the stats with all the PPE restrictions and government guidelines, less clients, more time needed, higher expenses, more space needed (two metres distance) which will continue to be a massive issue with clients – I personally think we will instantly lose 15-20% of our business turnover.
There are also lots of positives we should take from this past year – we’ve all learnt to adapt, be more flexible with each other, ourselves, our teams, and also about the industry as a whole. This experience has been a great leveller for the industry – we’ve all been in exactly the same situation and experienced the same challenges. For me, the last year has really made me appreciate everything about hairdressing and what we love about our business – from our staff to our clients and of course the loyalty we have received. I don’t think we can ever underestimate, as hairdressers, what an important role we play in people’s lives – we’ve really been missed and I hope our amazing, vibrant and exciting industry is valued more than ever before when we’re on the other side of this. I hope the future is one of excitement, passion and enthusiasm for our industry and I am sure that when we are finally back together, we’ll have so many wonderful conversations around our lockdown experiences.
Has your perspective/outlook changed on how you’ll operate the business? Yes definitely, we will all have to revaluate how we are going to move forward in business, with longer opening hours, teams working split shifts and working different hours. All salon owners will have to rethink the way they do things – it’s not how it used to be. Do you have any concerns about the long-term impact of the pandemic on business? 100%. We were a cash-rich, debt-free business to begin with which has allowed us to stay trading, but the impact of the loss of revenue and the loss of team and clients for various reasons means that we have hit debt and are no longer cash rich. We need to navigate our way out of that which will mean making some extremely tough decisions to keep cashflows prominent – while at the same time still being able to trade well to pay off the debts we have incurred. We missed out on a lot of the grants because of our size, and that has had a serious impact on the business. Do I believe we will come out of this well? I am hopeful, and I will give it my best shot, but I don’t think it will be a quick recovery and I feel that’s the same for the industry as a whole. Hairdressing has been hit hard, both individuals and businesses, and we face a long road ahead. However, I believe if we stick together – we can do this!
COVID times and lockdowns have changed us as a nation and as an industry – will things ever be the same again? Maybe not… but let’s not dwell on the negatives. Moving out of lockdown it’s good to look back and reflect - look at the positives that have come out of it. It’s clear from a lot of these conversations that there are many positives to take forward as we recover. We should all now have our eyes wide open – with a new perspective on what is important and how best to use our time and energy. Your future should be one of optimism – heaven knows, we’ve learned the hard way that you never know what’s around the corner. Make time for yourself – find time for others and most importantly be kind. We’d like to say a massive thank you to all of our wonderful friends for being so open about their feelings. We salute you!
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CREATING CONTENT... Ky Wilson is a hairdresser, entrepreneur and the owner of The Social Salons in London and the Lake District. He’s been in the hair game for 13 years and began a relationship with BaByliss PRO a decade ago, which has grown into a working partnership. We sat down for a chat with him (over Zoom of course) to find out what he’s been working on lately.
Most important thing you’ve learnt in lockdown? Patience and perseverance. Must follow Instagram account? Mine! Joking… @lukepluckrose.
SKILLS How did you come up with the idea to create a series on creating content at home? I was finding that a lot of people were just churning out the same old stuff and the lighting wasn’t right… It doesn’t take a genius to create a set behind you for a video. I think that sort of thing is really important when brands are spending a lot of money on supporting artists. Each episode I did I researched the sh*t out of it. And that’s what spurred me on to step my game up.
LOCKDOWN What have you been up to in lockdown? I’ve been really busy to be honest. I thrive in these environments when I feel like I need to hustle more. I try and make the most out of everything and the biggest thing that we all know everyone has done is go straight to online. I do social media and I don’t think I’m the best at it because I don’t always feel like what I have to say is relevant. I only really post when I’ve got something to say or there’s a reason for it. Talking to the camera has taken me years to get it right, it’s not natural to me. So I’ve been fine-tuning my own personal skills on creating content. Favourite photographer? I don’t have a favourite but one I always look to for inspiration is Nadia Lee Cohen. What’s something you simply cannot do? I’m really bad at DIY. My dad is really good at it so my standards are too high. Who do you turn to for support? My family or YouTube!
TOOLS... Must have tool? The BaByliss PRO Titanium Expression 25mm Curling Tong, or the cordless. It’s the most versatile thing. Or a hairdryer is an underestimated staple.
Did you ever think the series would be so well received? Well I pitched it to BaByliss and they loved it. It started as a series of four and we are going to do more because the feedback has been awesome. That’s why I want to carry on doing it because I feel like I’m helping, there’s meaning to it, it’s had a good impact. Everyone’s amping up their social media. The main thing I want to do is carry this on when I go back to the salon.
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PEOPLE
KY’S TOP 10 TIPS FOR CREATING CONTENT: 1
PICK UP YOUR PHONE AND START FILMING – This sounds simple, but it’s usually the biggest hurdle. Confidence is everything, and you need to give it all you’ve got.
Most adventurous thing you’ve ever done? Maybe setting up my first ever salon in London and living in it because I had to build everything from the ground up. Or having a baby?
2 CHOOSE YOUR TOPIC AND WRITE A SCRIPT – Having a script is the power to know what you’re saying. Plus, it will stop you getting in front of the camera and freezing up and then giving up. Use your script as a plan to figure out what footage you need and don’t forget that all important B-roll.
When the bars are open what are you drinking? A mega hoppy milkshake IPA that’s like 8%!
3 OVERSHOOT AS MUCH AS YOU CAN – Shoot multiple versions of your script and other footage you capture. That way, when it comes to editing you’ll have a choice of which to use and you’ll often find this makes for a much more engaging final product.
6 THINK ABOUT YOUR LIGHTING – Natural daylight is without a doubt the best light to film in but it’s constantly changing, so be careful when you plan to shoot and how long it will take. Artificial lighting will help you but your set-up is very important.
4 GRAB YOUR VIEWER’S ATTENTION – Mobile social users spend on average just 1.7 seconds before they swipe onto something else, and that’s how long you have to capture their attention. Your opening shot is one of the most important things to focus on. 5 GET YOUR KIT TOGETHER – A phone is the most important tool you need, but think about extras you could use to enhance your content and make your life much easier. Even something simple life a bluetooth clicker will be a game changer.
To watch Ky’s series and learn how to create your own content head over to the @babylissprouk Instagram. Make sure you give them a follow to stay up to date with upcoming episodes and more.
7 LET YOURSELF BE HEARD – The mic on your phone is great, but headphones or even a clip on mic can make your voice so much clearer and level up the quality of your video. 8 FIND YOUR VIBE – Make sure you feel comfortable with what you’re capturing, otherwise it won’t come off very well on camera. There are different ways of creating content for different comfort levels so find out what you’re happy with and go for it. 9 OVER-PERFORM – The camera sucks so much life out of you, that you need to go over the top to compensate for it, even though you might feel a bit silly at first doing this. You don’t need a drama degree, just be the very best version of yourself. 10 BE YOURSELF – That’s why your followers follow you! Try and be your true self and be as authentic as possible - this will be so important when you look back at your content and know you’ve created something you’re proud of.
...WITH KY WILSON PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 15
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Uros’s Creds APPOINTED CREATIVE DIRECTOR for Matrix in 2014 CREATIVE DIRECTOR for Wella Australia in 2018 Most recently the NATIONAL ARTISTIC AMBASSADOR for Revlon Professional Australia Uros is also a BRAND AMBASSADOR for ghd, and has been involved with the development of hair trends internationally TWICE WINNER of AIPP Mens Hairdresser Award 4 TIMES WINNER of AHFA Men’s Hairdresser of the Year 8 TIMES FINALIST of Australian Hairdresser of the Year The youngest salon to win HAIR EXPO’S SALON BUSINESS OF THE YEAR In 2019 the salon, founded in 2012, received the HAIR EXPO 2019 SALON DESIGN AWARD in recognition of their breathtaking renovation
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PEOPLE
Talent spotting down under
As a stylist, salon owner, educator, art director and mentor, PAULINE McCABE’s love of art has defined her career and ensured that her hair work is always creatively a cut above. Her keen eye knows a good ‘egg’ when she sees one, and she’s joined forces with Pro Hair to introduce us to some real Aussie gems that will inspire us. Meet Uros Mikic Hair Master, Creative Director, Global Artist, Mentor, Industry Leader, Business Owner, Husband, Dad – these are the tags you find when you google Uros Mikic! His strapline ‘don’t limit your challenges, challenge your limits’ perfectly sums him up. With over two decades of industry highlights which have taken him global, Uros brings an international flair to his work. His commitment to his award-winning salon, clients and team, alongside his creativity has brought him recognition worldwide.
Where is your happy place? Surf! Give me a good set of waves and all my troubles disappear.
What product do you think the world can do without? Hair Gel. There’s really no place in today’s market for a gel. We might need it for some avant-garde creativity, but otherwise its redundant.
What was the last thing you searched for on your phone? Surf conditions.
What is that one joke that you cannot tell without laughing hard? Christopher Walken and Will Ferrell’s skit ‘I need more cowbells’. What good happened to you today? Took my skateboard for a cruise down the beach. When you are gone, how would you like to be remembered? Good guy who loved his family and always worked hard while having some fun on the side.
What smells make you happy? Good cooking. What are the five words you use the most? Fantastic, awesome, cool, surf, brilliant. Money or fame? Family.
What do you spend most of your time doing? Hairdressing but I do try and have a good balance of work and family time. What do you spend way too much money on? My car, them Defenders are a black hole. What is the most impressive skill you have? Talent for any kind of sports. What is the biggest change you want to make in your life? Planning for a good future for my family. What is your best piece of advice? Always be the hardest working person in the room.
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COLOUR
Conquering Colour Continuing his series, BHA Colour Technician of the Year 2020 and Global Colour Director at D&J Ambrose, Clayde Baumann, grants us an in-depth look at each of the stunning images in his winning collection.
S
pring has sprung and the lifting of lockdown 3.0 is imminent. I couldn’t be more excited about getting back into the salon. The question on every colourists lips: What is the next big colour trend that is going to break the stale 2020 blues?! My prediction for 2021 is that “Ambitious Blondes” are going to be one of the predominant requests. With the salons opening on 12th April, after a staggering year of not generating revenue and clients being unable to have their barnets tended to professionally, I think everyone is ready to shake things up and brighten their looks to psychologically bolster themselves. Which brings me to my third image in this series…
The look This image was originally shot for my 2017 Collection: 4am, which was inspired by London nightlife and club culture. Sophie is sporting an ultra-clean “Cotton White” blonde with ‘shadow panels’ that blend seamlessly from the undercut on the sides of the head-shape and slowly disappearing in a gradient at the back of the head.
Let’s talk technique As you can see in the before picture, we started with a really dense head of hair on a natural depth of a 6/0. Typically, this hair type has the potential for a lot tightly packed Pheomelanin (red-yellow pigment). Here are four key points to make sure you achieve the best undertone: ● Ensure that there is a generous amount of product on the hair (pack it on). ● If your product dries out, reactivate it by spraying water onto it or, if there hasn’t been sufficient lift (and the structural integrity of the hair will allow it), reapply on top of the existing application. ● A gentle steam over the product is preferred to direct heat. ● Never more than 6% on the scalp and a barrier cream is essential (especially if you’re going to be pre-lightening extensively).
Make it salon-relevant Customers who have a global pre-lighten service have such large scope for future appointments in terms of maintenance or switching it up with different coloured toners. Don’t miss the opportunity to talk about these before your client leaves and secure yourself some future business. Also remember to talk to your clients about home care. This can range from reparative care to coloured masks so your client can have fun with their new look in the interim.
Here are my hero products for creating blonde hair in 2021! ●
● ● ● ● ● ●
Balance Lotion (Excellent scalp protection to be applied prior to pre-lightening) BlondorPlex (Lifting Powder). Wellaplex (Pre-lightening Additive). Blondor Seal & Care (Post Pre-lighten Porosity Equaliser). ColorFresh Create (Expressive In-Salon Toners). ColorFresh Mask (Pigmented Treatment Home-care). Fusion Careline (Powerful Reparative Home-care)
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ADVERTORIAL
Wave Revolution GOLDWELL unveils NUWAVE, a breakthrough service creating semi-permanent waves while beautifying the hair. Effortless waves, while an absolute summer go-to, are more than just a trend. The textured beachy look has become a staple for stylists and trend setters. GOLDWELL’s incredible new innovation in texture and shape change, NUWAVE promises to be a revolution. NUWAVE is the first semi-permanent Bouncy wave shape-change service for effortless waves with a smart process control. Thanks to a new generation of technology, perfect wavy styles last up to 3 months and gradually fade out of the hair. Be it classic beach waves, bouncy voluminous waves, loose and sexy waves or messy textured waves, you can enjoy total freedom of styling. And the best news of all? The hair will feel as good as it looks. To reinvent waves, GOLDWELL first of all had to reinvent the technology. The new SMART CONTROL BOND SYSTEM ensures that when waves reach the desired shape, the process stops. The new generation of technology is even suitable for highly damaged and bleached hair.* For hair that doesn’t only look good – but feels good too.
Glam wave
HOW CAN NUWAVE HELP YOUR BUSINESS Introducing a new salon service, means an incremental revenue opportunity #Wavyhair is the hair fashion. Have all the business benefits of the moment with more than 5.4M tags on Instagram. With more and more clients asking for wavy hair that is flexible to change up their look, this new service allows you to meet the demand.
Beachy wave
NUWAVE is a service and can help to increase your client re-booking rate in the salon. Develop your skillset as a stylist via innovation education through exclusive seminars, the Goldwell YouTube channel and Education Plus App for additional learning. Easy to apply by any team member, suitable for all stylist levels.
*when used in combination with GOLDWELL SYSTEM PROTECTOR
Make Waves, Have Fun
NUWAVE is not only a new way of creating waves, it’s also a new way of working with tools. Goldwell breaks away from conventional wrapping techniques,
with their new fun tools dedicated to supporting stylists creativity. The possibilities are endless and services will be faster and easier.
www.goldwell.co.uk @goldwelluk #nuwave For more info on NUWAVE head to: www.rdr.link/HZ005 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 19
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Stephensons Solicitors work in association with salon supply company Salon Business Solutions. Here Philip Richardson, Partner and Head of Employment Law, answers some of the legal questions you’ve been asking during lockdown…
A member of our salon team is shielding and I’m concerned we might not have enough staff to cope with the demand following the easing of restrictions, is there anything I should be doing? “Earlier this year, the Government extended its shielding guidance to an additional 1.7million people in England. They joined the 2.3 million people across the country who were previously identified as being clinically vulnerable or extremely clinically vulnerable. Many of those who are shielding have done so for months on end and have faced a large degree of uncertainty in their personal and professional lives. As the restrictions ease, those who are shielding and their employers are bound to have questions about their return to work and what their role might look like. “As it stands, at the time of writing, shielding advice is in place until 31st March 2021, this may be extended dependent on the rate of infection across the UK at the time. If you have staff members who are shielding, it’s important that you keep in regular contact. In anticipation of the reopening of salons, discuss with that person what their return will look like. Perhaps you’ll need to take additional safety measures, or re-work your salon space to provide a separate area for a more vulnerable staff member to work from? You could also discuss different work patterns or ask them to take on another role within the company if a customer facing role might be a step too far at this stage. Either way, discussing the options now and getting their feedback and suggestions is a critical step. “It’s also important that you aren’t putting any pressure on shielding staff members to return to work. By law, employees and workers are protected against unfair and discriminatory treatment and dismissal if it’s because of pregnancy, age, or a health condition that’s considered a disability under the Equality Act.”
Some of our staff are nervous about working in the salon once we’re allowed to re-open again, is there anything I should be doing? “While some people have an overwhelming urge to return to work and to some kind of normality, others will be much more cautious. Many salons have introduced stringent measures to protect both staff and customers, including PPE, reduced capacity inside the salon and good ventilation, however this perhaps isn’t the case across the board and many people are very hesitant about returning to work and being in close contact with customers and colleagues. As we make good progress with the rollout of the vaccine, employers should be wary of demanding staff return to the workplace as normal without considering individual needs and rights concerning making reasonable adjustments for some staff. It’s worth using some time to really plan through what the return to work will look like for you and your team. Consider the needs of individual team members and speak to them about their return, do they have any concerns, are there any steps that you can take that would make their return to the salon easier? There’s no doubt that the unpredictability of this virus has caused many sleepless nights for those in business, however in our battle with COVID-19, forewarned is forearmed, and having a plan in place before you invite staff back to work will be a great advantage.”
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BUSINESS
Before COVID we had issues with absence management, with some staff taking frequent time off work for often dubious reasons. I’m concerned history will repeat itself when things return to normal, what should I do? “As an employer, a first priority is to ensure absence management policies are up-to-date and that you or any of your management team are aware of how to deal with situations like this. It should also be on the ‘to do list’ to monitor absence data closely to enable you to properly record any trends in absences. If you have enough evidence to suggest that there is a suspicious pattern to an employee’s absences then employers are well placed to organise a review meeting with the employee in question. “There is an obligation as an employer that you take reasonable action to review and monitor trends in absence. For example, if there is an employee that has taken frequent short term leave, or suspicious leave trends,
the first thought shouldn’t be that they are being disingenuous. Employers should hold return to work meetings to understand if there is a serious underlying issue. Once in receipt of this information, action plans can be implemented that can make the employee more comfortable and productive. “The obligation doesn’t just lie with the employer here though, and employees should review their company’s absence management policy. It is important that all employees understand fully, what the correct reporting system is, what the consequences of continued absenteeism could be and ultimately how they would inform their employer if they have more serious health or personal problems that needed to be considered.”
“Consider the needs of individual team members and speak to them about their return, do they have any concerns, are there any steps that you can take that would make their return to the salon easier?” Our salons seem to be a hotbed for budding romantic relationships, do we need to do anything legally to protect our staff and ourselves? Of course everyone is entitled to a private life and many employers are realistic about the prospect of colleagues finding love at work. However, pursuing a personal relationship in the workplace can sometimes cause complications and many companies are keen to put safeguards in place to protect staff members and ultimately themselves. Work relationships can raise a legal risk that an employer is exposed to – particularly claims of harassment and sex discrimination if the relationship ends suddenly and acrimoniously. As a result, some companies have adopted some measures such as a ‘personal relationships at work policy’ or a ‘love contract’ as they are sometimes referred to. While these aren’t hugely common here in the UK yet, they are being seen as a sensible precaution, allowing those concerned to represent that their relationship is entirely consensual whilst acknowledging the employer’s anti-harassment policies and rules. To be clear, there is no strict obligation on employees to inform their employer about a relationship with a colleague, unless of course it forms part of the company’s employment policy. However, if a relationship does become more serious and other employees start talking, it can be sensible to have a discussion, at an appropriate time, informing a manager about a new relationship. Often things can get complicated when intertwining the personal and professional, so clear and open dialogue with a manager is usually welcomed rather than being heard through the rumour mill.
The latest lockdown restrictions may force me to make some of my team redundant. What do I need to consider? “The coronavirus pandemic has had a profound impact on the hair and beauty industry. Recent figures suggest that 4,578 hairdressers and salons have had to close their doors permanently since the pandemic began and for the 220,000 people which it employs, these are massively uncertain times. When the previous lockdown was lifted salons in some areas saw a surge in bookings for hair and beauty appointments, yet for those in city centres or with a particular reliance on office worker footfall, that may not have been the same experience. Add into the mix yet another national lockdown, and it has left many in the industry with some very difficult decisions. If you are considering redundancy, it’s always worth consulting with a specialist employment solicitor who will advise you on the correct procedure and best practice. This should involve proper consultation and complete transparency with those impacted and ensuring there is a fair basis for selection and consideration of any alternatives to redundancy. You may have a sound basis for making staff redundant, especially during the present pandemic, but you can still find yourself facing claims for unfair dismissal if you have not followed a fair and reasonable process. It is therefore essential to take advice to avoid costly claims in the long term. If you dismiss an employee by reason of redundancy and they have at least two years’ service, then they are entitled to a statutory redundancy payment as a minimum. The amount will depend three keys factors; the employee’s length of service, age and rate of pay.”
Stephensons work in association with salon supply company Salon Business Solutions. Stephensons WWW.RDR.LINK/HZ006
Salon Business Solutions WWW.RDR.LINK/HZ007
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BUSINESS
s ip t l ia t n e s s e 1o0n skin testing By Debbie Digby, salon owner and author of Forewarned is Forearmed.
CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO WWW.RDR.LINK/HZ008
Skin Testing has had more than its fair share of attention over the last few weeks. Many are wondering – ‘what has happened?’ I think it is important to understand that insurance claims in the hair industry have tripled over the last couple of years. The majority of claims are linked to bleaching services but there is also a sharp rise in claims for Beauty Parlour Syndrome and associated injuries. All that to one side, it is clear that what hairdressers need is direction on what to do! As much as I would love to give one answer – it is a little more complex than that, here I set out to simplify... Salon Policy – It is your business; you must decide what is best for you and your clients. All businesses are not the same, so one size does not fit all. Examine all the facts and write and publish your Colour Responsible Policy. Manufacturer’s Instructions – This is where to start, manufacturer’s instructions are important. Not just for protection against reactions but also because a chemist and/or scientist has formulated your product to perform dependent on how it is mixed and used. For safety and best results you must know and understand the product’s intended purpose. Protocol – You can adopt a protocol (accepted code of procedure). These are usually set by industry bodies or manufacturers to make usage more convenient whilst still keeping safety as a paramount concern. They are an alternative way of doing things and if you choose this method, you must make sure your treatment risk is covered by insurance. Sometimes this will involve what is called an indemnity policy. An example would be the NHBF protocol which states you can AAT (Allergy Alert Test – blob test) your client once every six months subject to a series of questions being satisfied before each colour service. Screening Questions – If you are going to use questioning between services the correct term is screening. A few questions your client will answer to ascertain if anything has changed since her last colour, and if nothing has, it may be safe to go ahead and colour safely. Alternative Methods – There are some products available to buy to make the process easier for you and your client. For example, Colourstart, which allows your client to test before her colour to save an extra visit to the salon. Always check you have insurance in place.
Insurance – Skin testing comes under treatment risk on your policy. If the wording is not specific or unclear it is best to call your insurer and clarify with them. You do not want to discover too late you do not have cover for your chosen colour policy. If you are not covered you have two choices, adjust your colour policy or change your insurance. Industry Standards – By nature of the way we train in hairdressing we have great industry standards set out by City and Guilds. I personally make sure I read an up-to-date textbook at least every couple of years so I can be sure I am up-to-date. Tests – There are some essential tests alongside allergy testing that are important for safe colouring services. Checking for porosity, incompatibility, elasticity and suitability of services need not take long, and you are likely doing it informally as you look at and feel the hair. Make notes and plan a stress-free service by knowing in advance the process needed to give your client their hair of dreams. Documentation – Is that you rolling your eyes? I know, and I am sorry, please do not shoot the messenger. When we (Feathers Salon Group) won our case in court against a ‘No Win–No Fee’ solicitor who attempted to bring a spurious claim against us, it was the documentation we had in place that helped us convince the Judge that we had acted with duty of care and had done nothing wrong. Put procedures in place, the NHBF have a toolkit which is free for members and can be bought for non-members. Training – Make sure the team are well briefed and qualified to undertake tests and services. I personally am excited for the future of our industry as we continue to raise our professionalism. Debbie is author of Forewarned is Forearmed – available to purchase on Amazon.
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no jab, no job Can an employer require an employee to take a COVID-19 vaccination? We asked Alec Colson, partner and Head of Employment Law at Luton-headquartered law firm Taylor Watson for some advice.
Whilst there is no legal provision that permits an employer to enforce workers to take one of the COVID-19 vaccines, some organisations are considering making the vaccine a condition of employment, with many more expected to follow. Therefore, what is the legal position in this area? In short, compulsory vaccines is a legal minefield and employers will need to be very careful how they approach the matter, so they do not breach any strict rules or guidelines. Background Under section 2 of the Health and Safety at Work Act 1974 (HSWA 1974) an employer must take all reasonably practicable steps to reduce workplace risks to their lowest practicable level. Additionally, under section 7 of the HSWA 1974, an employee has a duty to cooperate as necessary with the employer to enable it to comply with any statutory requirements including reducing workplace risks. Moreover, employees will want to be reassured that they are working in a safe environment. However, this is unlikely to extend to employees being legally required to take the vaccine in all business sectors and we will have to wait for further guidance from the Government on what measures an employer may be required to take. The meaning of “reasonableness” is likely to depend on the business sector of the employer and the services it provides. In relation to hairdressing as it is not possible to social distance, there are strong arguments that a mandatory vaccination policy would a be a reasonable management request in the same way as it would apply to employees working in social care and the health service. On the other hand, PPE will provide some protection for employees in the hairdressing sector which reduces the risk of transmission either to the client or the hairdresser. However, in the meantime a sensible policy would be to encourage all existing staff to be vaccinated. For new staff, there could be a general policy of requiring them to have the vaccine as a
condition of appointment with a provision that allows exceptions to the general vaccination policy in special circumstances for example, where an employee is unable to have the vaccine for medical reasons. A risk assessment should be undertaken in relation to an unvaccinated employee or prospective employee and following this, employers may be able to objectively justify that the requirement for an employee to have a vaccine is a proportionate means of achieving a legitimate aim, in this case protecting the health and safety of staff and customers. Religion and belief It is unlikely that an “anti-vax’ belief amounts to a philosophical belief for the purposes of the Equality Act 2010. However, not all vaccines in production have released their list of ingredients and it is possible that gelatine may have been used in some vaccines or in its production process and therefore, an employee with certain religious beliefs or vegans may have religious or philosophical grounds for refusing to take the vaccination. Disability discrimination If an employee has been advised by their doctor not to take the vaccine on medical grounds, an employer’s requirement to take the vaccine may amount to disability discrimination. Even if the employee is not disabled, a Tribunal may find that the request to the employee to go against medical advice is an unreasonable request in any event. An employee’s fear of needles (trypanophobia) may also amount to a disability and therefore the employer would need to consider whether it could provide alternative working arrangements. Pregnancy and maternity discrimination Public Health England advice states that “women should be advised not to attend for vaccination if they are, or may be, pregnant, or are planning a pregnancy within three months
of the first dose. Vaccinated women who are not pregnant should be advised to avoid becoming pregnant for two months after the second dose of vaccine”. Therefore, a requirement to take the vaccine as a condition of employment for a pregnant employee, or an employee planning a pregnancy, is likely to amount to sex discrimination and pregnancy/maternity discrimination. Data protection Personal data collected in connection with an employee’s vaccination records will be sensitive personal data or special category personal data and will need to be processed in accordance with GDPR. But is it legal to collect such data? The answer to this is whether the employer, as a data controller, has a legitimate interest or legal obligation to collect vaccine information due to the nature of their business. A care home owner may well be justified or may become legally obliged to do so whereas for an office role, the requirements to have such information is less clear cut. Conclusion At first glance, an employer’s COVID vaccine requirement appears to be a ‘reasonable instruction’ to keep workers and customers safe. However, the position is far more complex and could raise numerous legal issues which will need to take into account the requirements of the employer and circumstances of the employee. As the vaccine rolls out across the age groups, salon owners will need to keep abreast of the Government public health guidance in relation to the pandemic and start to develop their own COVID-19 pandemic policies to take into account the implications of the vaccine in the workplace. Whilst the arrival of the vaccine is a huge relief for everyone, the vaccine should be seen as the next chapter in the pandemic story and sadly not the end.
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MMuosoicds
BUSINESS
Paul Falltrick of GFC Hairdressing on curating a salon playlist. CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO WWW.RDR.LINK/HZ009
This last lockdown has given me the chance to do something I’ve always wanted do for the salon but never found the time for: create a week long salon sound track. I have always wanted a great playlist for the salon, with no repeating music through the whole week, I’ve finally done it and can hand on heart say I’ve listened to every single song to make sure they are all perfect for GFC Hairdressing. I’ve massively enjoyed the challenge of putting it together and wanted to share my advice here in case anyone else is looking to do the same. So where do you start? For me it was about knowing what I wanted and working backwards from there. I knew I wanted the salon to have a feel musically but I wanted have different songs for different days and even times of the day. The music should change throughout the week because, let’s face it, the clients change as it gets towards the weekend and we see more of our younger clients. I put down all our opening hours and broadly speaking looked at what clients were in when. Of course there’s still a mixture of clients on most days, but it was about working out a general trend so I could match the music. The musical feel for our salon was going to be a French café vibe but I was really conscious that I didn’t ever want it to be predictable or dull! So this is where I got the team on board. I asked them all to give me five songs they’d like to hear in the salon. This was great on two levels because the team felt involved but it also gave me a bank of music to start working with immediately. Putting all the songs in for the days they felt most relevant was a great basis for each playlist. What was also fantastic was they came back with such a huge range of
choices it meant there was already nothing dull or predictable about the playlists! From there it was down to me to start adding more tunes and it was such a pleasure, I started with putting in a real mixed bag of classics; from The Beatles to Doris Day and Nancy Sinatra songs that everyone knows. It’s really important to consider the sound system you are working with in the salon and if you want to make the music work in different areas. If the salon’s a big space it might be worth considering have different playlists for the back wash to client waiting areas, or different playlists for upstairs and downstairs. In the end I decided not to change the playlists for the areas in the salon, even though when we re-open we’ll be double the space. Instead the new sound system we’ve got in salon allows us to have different volume levels in different areas so it’s softer in the
treatment area and louder in the cutting area to combat the noise of hairdryers. Although it’s a time consuming job it’s actually really simple to do it once you get started with no fancy technology required. Apple Music is as easy as anywhere to create a playlist for each day but Spotify or whatever App you use for music in the salon would work just as well. It keeps track of how long the playlist is so you can ensure you’ve got enough music for your opening hours that day. I put together AM and PM playlists for each day because I wanted there to be a different feel for each part of the day, but a daily playlist put on shuffle would work just as well at keeping it fresh for clients and team. There’s no way I could have finished this project without lockdown, I had started it and tried so many times, now it’s finally done I’ve got one thing to be thankful to Lockdown 3.0 for!
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BUSINESS
TforOPthiTnIkPiSng
x o b e h t e outsid
By Noel Halligan and Corey Taylor of NOCO Hair, Bristol. We’re all hoping and dreaming of busy salons when we re-open – but that doesn’t mean it’s time to take your eye off the ball. Thinking outside the box should happen regardless of how quiet or busy you are. It’s easy to get bogged down on everyday issues, but we set ourselves 90-day goals and working towards what we expect to achieve at the beginning of the quarter. We align ourselves with that vision and constantly check in where we are and measure what we expect to achieve. Another thing we do is set clear intentions at the beginning of every day. Never take on too much or wear too many hats at the same time. We are all playing a game and at times it can be challenging and not much fun. When it becomes too hard it’s time to take a break. But change your mindset and think of a challenge as fun; it will push you forward and take you places you might not have gone. We think differently all the time, think – if this is how everyone else is doing it, how can we do it differently? You don’t want to become mundane, if you think the same as everyone else you’ll be the same and won’t stand out. Focus on your own results and what you want. You then become an innovator and people start following you. Doing something different might be the last thing on your mind right now, but it’s the best time to do something! Noel has started meditating every day and having a clear mind means you can relax and take a moment – he gets his best ideas during this time!
CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO WWW.RDR.LINK/HZ010
Six suggestions Don’t see a box. As soon as you see a box you see restrictions – it makes you think there is a limited supply of ideas and there is not an unlimited supply. Ask the universe to deliver what is rightly yours. If you change the word ‘need’ to ‘want’ then it becomes. Money scares people and puts a serious aspect on to what is happening. It’s a good way to test and measure but can make change more daunting than it needs to be. So don’t get bogged down with the financials. People don’t buy what you do, people buy why you do it. People will buy anything if they feel a connection to it and it will improve their lives. Will they feel better when they’ve come into contact with you? If they leave in the same state of mind as when they arrived, then we have failed. Grow your knowledge and put that knowledge into action, then the money will grow at the same rate as you are growing as a person. It’s OK if an idea isn’t new. You can take someone else’s idea and put your own twist on it and improve it so it takes you on a new journey.
Website: www.nocohair.com Instagram: @nocohair
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BUSINESS
We ask three salon owners from around the UK about ‘The COVID Effect’ on their salon business. The past 12 months have certainly seen the hairdressing industry face some arduous challenges. We know you’re a resilient bunch, but just how badly has the industry been affected by COVID-19, and how will it bounce back? We spoke to three successful salon owners to get their take on the impact of COVID-19 on their businesses and how they see a way forward. JAMIE BROOKS, BROOKS & BROOKS, LONDON Rent, rates, National Insurance, utility and general bills have all needed to be paid over the last year – but apart from small grants and loans, there hasn’t been a lot of help for businesses. Furlough was great for employees to give them a sense of security, but that is coming to an end soon. I think many salon owners are concerned that once the furlough tap is switched off, what happens then? Staff are potentially going to be working less hours because of restrictions, but have got used to having money. It’s going to be a shock for a lot of people and furlough has skewed people’s view of how they should be rewarded and paid. Many employers haven’t been helped during this and have had a really hard time, but I’m not sure employees totally realise this.
Has there been enough support for salon businesses? MARCELLO MOCCIA, OWNER OF ROOM 97, WAKEFIELD AND LEEDS One of my biggest concerns when COVID-19 brought about the first lockdown, was looking after my team. I managed to keep all my staff employed thanks, in part, to the government furlough scheme. After 25 years in business, lockdown stopped me in my tracks. It took me a few weeks to get my head around it and find the motivation to deal with the situation. What is frustrating is that, despite us saving everyone else’s jobs, as directors we received no support from the government. Insurance companies have not paid out either, even though we have pandemic cover, which has been hugely frustrating both mentally and financially. Employees have been looked after but not the business owners. Moving forward, the government needs to realise that we are the ones helming the ships. I currently have trainees earning more than me!
DAVID CORBETT, DAVID CORBETT HAIRDRESSING, BOTHWELL, GLASGOW The largest single overhead to my business is staff salaries. So, it has been a great relief that the government have continued the furlough scheme, allowing my team some peace of mind. However, as the sole director of my salon, frustratingly, I am one of the three million or so business owners who have had no support from any of the furlough grant schemes. Owning a reasonably large salon, one overhead where we have had support has been the rate relief. This saving has allowed us to continue to heat and light the building safely throughout lockdown. But we still had to insure our property and continue to pay our salon software system support. One overhead that I think as an industry we need to get better guidance on is business insurance. We believed, like many other salons, that we were covered for any eventuality and while there has been a supreme court ruling stating insurance companies should be made to pay out, it is clear from the industry and the media, that such payments are unlikely to be made.
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How do you see the future? Do you think client behaviour has changed? Jamie: The industry’s challenges will continue long after lockdown ends and salons re-open. One of the biggest tasks salon owners face is adapting to the ‘new normal’ and the changes in client behaviour that several lockdowns have no doubt introduced. Clients didn’t like not having access to salons to begin with, but then they found other ways of coping with their hair. Things have changed in terms of what they find acceptable when it comes to personal appearance. Tracksuits and a messy bun are now an Instagram staple. So a flexible, relaxed attitude could have its benefits when we re-open. What people have missed during lockdown is luxury — they might come into the salon less, but they will spend more. People will want to treat themselves. They will be happy to spend more and have an experience. Salons that offer a luxury experience, backed by real expertise, will do well. Marcello: One positive element of this whole situation is that clients have realised how much their hairdressers mean to them. I think once salons re-open, there will be an element of greater client loyalty. They understand the necessity of going to a professional salon, and they can’t wait to get back. I think they will make more frequent visits once we re-open — our services and expertise have gone up in their eyes. I think they’ll also understand the need for salons to increase their service prices post-COVID. They have to understand that an appointment will
take longer than 45 minutes, so the price has to go up. When they came back after the first lockdown, everything took longer, so this time we have to be savvier with price structure. We have to meet our own goals and clients will have to understand that. David: Our guests have been wonderful throughout this pandemic. I think if they can see you are doing your absolute best to keep them safe and that I am doing my absolute best to keep my team safe then their behaviour towards us is exemplary. However, it hasn’t been without challenges; the amount of clients we have been able to accommodate is less. I have always prided myself on trying to make our guests and my team feel like part of my family, however the interaction between us all now is much more reserved. Some people who visit us are worried sick about their health, some are less so. So we have to assume that everyone is worried sick. If we are seen to deal with the worst-case scenario then they can collectively relax and enjoy the experience. During the first lockdown we, like many others, had to cover the new costs of time delays, less clients, PPE etc. So our pricing structure was reviewed to include these changes. I believe in rewarding our clients for their loyalty so I don’t foresee us implementing a further increase. I would much rather see an industry change to way we structure VAT within our industry.
Jamie: COVID has had a huge impact on our business. The government now has to try to reduce their costs and their liability; that money has been spent and we will all have to pay for it eventually. During the last crisis people were still working and still paying their taxes; this time they’re not but that money still needs repaying. A lot of people don’t have money in the bank, they live on their cashflow and during this pandemic, overheads have far outweighed money coming in. In general, people don’t understand finance and that’s when they’ve got unstuck. I think this has taught everyone to learn more about finances, savings and ways of living. Since March 2020 no one has paid business rates which has been a help for businesses but a huge loss for the treasury. There’s going to be a lot of changes both personally and as a business. Marcello: I was quite naïve about things like accrued holidays and had to learn a different way to working through this past 12 months. And this will continue moving forward as new obstacles and opportunities arise. In the first lockdown we invested in an online shop for our clients which has proved to be a huge success with people from afar as Dubai purchasing products. So while the salons, people and clients will always be a priority, as an industry we need to explore digital opportunities as that is the way the world is moving. We’ve already started a recruitment campaign for stylists – with more and more salons closing it means there are good people available. David: I believe that investment is key to the hairdressing industry’s survival. However, a period of healing and consolidation will need to come first. I think for us to continue to thrive, we need to keep investing in our training, the development of our salon and the guests experience, plus continue to participate in fun, creative events. However, it will take some time to build our reserves. We are roughly 50% down on our last trading year. So, I have to effectively communicate the situation to the team so that they understand it will take time to heal from this.
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Dniasgmgiisnsg tvhooiscees
Business consultant Phil Jackson from Build Your Salon, says ignore those rumours, stories and negative voices and get back on track. After a tumultuous 12 months, it’s time to financially vaccinate your business! The first step is to tackle some of the unhelpful stories I’m hearing salon owners telling themselves right now.
CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO WWW.RDR.LINK/HZ034
No-one has any money right now Of course, some people are struggling – but not everyone. The fact is that many people are better off financially than they have ever been. They’ve been working from home, making their normal salary without the added expense of travelling to the office, buying take-away lunches, or even going on holiday. Though you may personally be experiencing tough times financially, it doesn’t mean others don’t have cash to spend. In fact, many people are sitting on extra money and looking for somewhere to spend it that will help them feel good.
You can’t compete with online retailers You have got to believe that you can do big things in the online space. There is a groundswell of support for small, local and family businesses which can serve you well. Make it possible for customers to spend with you 24/7 and make sure you have a great story to tell that will resonate with your target customers. Setting up an online store has never been easier – dip a toe cheaply with Shopify, Wix or even just list your products on your salon Facebook page.
Your customers won’t like going cashless You may want to consider going cashless at your salon. Customers have grown accustomed to visiting establishments where cash is not allowed. We went cashless over five years ago and I would never go back. My insurance costs even reduced after having reported that there will be no cash on site! In the early days there were occasional grumbles from clients but that was quickly outweighed by a salon PDQ that actually balanced every night!
You can’t charge for PPE A year ago, I was recommending adding a per-visit supplement for PPE to our regular prices. That was when we all thought the pandemic would blow over in a few months. That simply isn’t the case any longer and I am now recommending we price the PPE in to our list prices. However we re-open and however long the journey out of lockdown takes, the requirements for extra precautions aren’t going away any time soon.
You need to do it all When you niche down, you reduce the number of competitors who offer the services you do. Reducing competition means an increased share of a unique market - and that allows you to charge more. Examine any services you don’t enjoy and consider removing services that don’t pay well. However, be aware that occasionally less profitable services are ‘gateway’ services that lead to more profitable spending later in the client journey. Tapping into a specialised market increases the geographic reach of your salon and to be blunt, people will pay more for an expert than they will a generalist.
Customers will leave if you increase prices This myth assumes that the only reason customers come to you is because of what you charge. That’s simply not true, or the cheapest salon in town would also be the busiest and most successful salon in the area. Customers are much more resilient to price changes than we often assume. And even the most hardened regular customer will expect to see price changes in today’s economy. With so many salons going out of business, the price the market will tolerate has gone up. Additionally, the perceived value of our industry in terms of what we bring to the high street, the economy and the emotional wellbeing of society has increased exponentially. All of these things have increased the demand for salon services. An increase in demand and a decrease in supply means that you, as a salon owner, can afford to raise your rates.
We can ‘go back to normal’ Though offering a familiar and much-loved experience will bring a huge sigh of relief to our customers, we have to change the way we have been running our businesses. We’ve learned that the insurance industry can’t be relied on to have our backs and though the government has spent billions keeping the economy functioning we must appreciate that there isn’t an infinite supply of financial help. There will be a ‘next time’. Consider putting even a tiny fraction of turnover away in your ‘war chest’ to self-insure and financially insulate yourself from future crises. www.buildyoursalon.com
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BUSINESS
CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO WWW.RDR.LINK/HZ011
Award-winning salon owner Caroline Sanderson heads up the Salon Jedi Coaching Academy, and is author of ‘The Ultimate Business Bible for Ambitious Salon Owners’ available on Amazon. This month she provides 3 ways to leverage your existing business and a salon checklist guide for reopening. Too often, salon and business owners put their main focus on getting more new clients rather than nurturing the ones they already have. We become obsessed with looking for the next shiny new thing to attract a flood of new clients to our salons. Yes, new clients grow a business BUT there is free gold in your existing client base that, when you dig for it, can unlock the wealth that’s been lying hidden in your business all along. With the past year having a detrimental impact on salons across the nation financially, now is the most important time to look at ways you can re-grow your business in the most cost effective way. In nurturing your existing client database, you are rebuilding the relationship you have with your regular clients whilst saving on marketing costs.
Here are 3 top ways to leverage what you already have: 1 ADD ONS It’s seven times more expensive to gain a new client than to sell something to an existing client. There will never be an easier up-serve than selling something else to a client who is already a buyer. For example, when a client’s in having a service, it’s important to focus on providing another service or product add-on to increase your chances of getting another sale in the same transaction and in turn, increase your average bill. Think of other company techniques such as McDonalds, “do you want to go large with that?” or Vista Print’s “would you like to add another 500 cards to your order for a discounted rate?” These are value up-serves we have all experienced at some point as a buyer and we can use this in our own salons. 2 CLIENT REFERRALS In my January column, we went into further detail about how referrals are a great way to up your salon database. Asking your happy clients to support your business is an
extremely under-utilised strategy. You can ask your clients for referrals and reviews to help get more clients like them in your salon by increasing social proof that your salon is the best to go to. Happy clients love to help you; you don’t even have to give anything in return. 3 LOST CLIENTS Reaching out to clients who have not visited for some time is another way to leverage your existing client database. Maybe they tried somewhere else and feel bad or are scared to return as they think they will be judged. By reaching out to them you are providing a gateway to welcome them back. When done in the right way, this can bring lots of lost clients back as happy regular clients again. Let them know you miss them and care. Never underestimate the value of your existing client database. Keeping your database clean and updated is one of the most, if not THE most valuable business assets to practise in your salon.
Salon opening check list: Relook at your expenses: Monitor your outgoings vs. your incoming funds. There may be areas you can save, such as asking your supplier to negotiate deals, or renewing your insurance by price comparing to ensure you are getting the most for your money. Being open and honest with your supplier is key; don’t be afraid to reach out for help. The same for rent; have an honest conversation with your landlord to discuss whether you can negotiate and meet at a reasonable lowered figure. Increase the average bill: On re-opening, look at how you can increase your average treatment such as implementing add-on incentives like VIP experiences, bundles and deluxe versions of services to create further profit. We went into further detail about revenue in our February column as part of our three R’s, referrals, revenue and returns. Tight stock system: Having a tight stock system is a way to maintain lowered costs as you may find you don’t need to order so much product by being mindful of how much you are wasting. Wasted product is money down the drain, not to mention the detrimental impact it has on the environment, so look at your wastage and see where you can save. Marketing strategy: Don’t wait until re-opening to turn on your marketing, or worse, when you go quiet after the first wave of appointments. Marketing and messaging needs to get out there now so you are ‘front of mind’ to your potential and long-standing clients. New clients need to see your message many times before they consider using your services for the first time, so now is the time to be seen. For further top tips and training, make sure you join the Salon Jedi Clubhouse room every Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 6pm, accessible via the Clubhouse App. Download exclusive access to a free copy of Caroline Sanderson’s Amazon Bestseller, The Salon Jedi; The Big Business Breakthrough for Ambitious Salon Owners: WWW.RDR.LINK/HZ012
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PLANSSHOOTPUBLISH
part 3
TONY HARESIGN IS A MASTER BARBER WITH OVER 30 YEARS’ EXPERIENCE IN HAIR AND PHOTOGRAPHY. IN THIS SERIES FOR PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER HE ASKS “WHY SHOULD YOU CREATE YOUR OWN HAIR COLLECTION?” HOW CAN I ACTUALLY GET MY WORK PUBLISHED IN MAGAZINES? After working so hard on the PLAN and SHOOT stages of your hair collection, and all the buzz and excitement has died down, you now want your genius and creativity to be seen by the World. Now it’s time to PUBLISH! But how do you go about making that a reality? I am going to outline some important steps to follow that will maximise your chances of getting your work in the magazines that you want to be seen in. AFTER THE SHOOT A few days after the shoot, I always contact everyone in the team and the models, to say thanks for their hard work and look forward to working with them again. This may sound like common courtesy, but you will be surprised how much a ‘Thank you’ can help when working with people in the future. It’s nice to be nice. SHOT SELECTION When shooting digitally, you can end up with hundreds of images to choose from, which can be really overwhelming. The idea is to whittle them down to a selection of a half dozen or so for publication. This can be a difficult task alone, so a meeting with your photographer is always a good idea if possible. They will have greater experience at editing large volumes of images and will be able to help reduce the number you are choosing from. Another good idea is to ask the advice of a few of your peers, whose opinion you value.This can be an arduous task, but take your time. You don’t want to miss your best shot!
WHO TO CONTACT When you have your shots selected and your ‘Collection’ ready to go... You are ready for the next step. Compile yourself a list of all the magazines that you would like to be featured in. Give each one a call and speak to the Editor or Features Editor and ask for the correct person/email to submit your collection. This then gives you an opportunity to ‘quick pitch’ them with your collection theme. Keep it short and let them know when to expect the images.
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BUSINESS
RIGHTS & ROI If you are going to enter competitions, make sure you have the correct ‘licence’ for the images from the photographer who owns the copyright, as you don’t want to get hit with a hefty bill for ‘image mis-use’. Read the terms and conditions of each competition carefully, they are all different. Some may require you to agree to, on submission of your images, a ‘commercial licence’ ie to use your image in adverts, which the photographer, quite rightly, may want to charge for. Your Return On Investment (ROI) will be gauged on the amount of publicity, the number of pages published and any other offer that arises from your collection being seen.You need to be patient whilst waiting for your creation to appear in the hallowed pages of your chosen magazines, as most magazines plan 3/6 months ahead. With this final part in this series I hope that it has given you some ideas, inspiration and have demystified the process of creating your own hair collection and getting it published. If you want to make the jump from being the ‘Unseen Stylist’, who can’t get their work created or published, to become the ‘Collection Queen’ who has magazines begging to feature their next body of work, then this is what you have been waiting for! Using my unique ‘Hair Collection Mastery System’ I will coach you on how to get you from ‘ideas in your head’ to ‘getting published’ and everything in between. Let's work together to release your greatness and creativity. SIGN UP NOW!! www.haircollectionmastery.com PUBLISHER NEGOTIATIONS Prepare a press release for your collection, detailing your inspiration, the feel and design of your collection. Include details of the team, models, products and contact details. Include this with your images, the editors/readers want to know this stuff too. Most magazines will want to take your collection as an ‘exclusive’ and won’t want it to be in any other magazine, website or social media. So resist the urge to share it. This next part can be a long process, but it’s worth taking the time to get this part right. Start with your number one magazine choice for publishing your collection. Send low resolution images or a PDF contact sheet, stating in your email that these images are for ‘PREVIEW ONLY’ then follow up with a call/email to check that they have received the collection. Give them a
few days to mull over the images then give them a call/email and ask for some feedback, and ultimately if they will use them. If they say ‘No’, thank them for taking the time to look and ask them if they could give you some feedback as to why? It could be simply that you have shot your collection in BW and they already have four submitted in that style. And if they say ‘Yes’ (jump for joy!) you can discuss the timeframe that the magazine plans to use it in. This then gives you an indication on when you are able to send out your collection to all the other magazines, after the collection has been published. After your ‘exclusive’ with the magazine has been published, you can now send out your collection via email, with the press release, to all of the other magazines you have identified, at the same time.
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 37
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Hair Robert Eaton Make-up Lucy Flower Styling Clare Frith Photography Richard Miles
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CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HZ013
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We associate colour with feelings of emotion – your ‘colour identity’ can shape your personality and influence how other people perceive you. What is your colour ID?
COLOUR IDENTITY Hair HOOKER & YOUNG Make-up Kirsten Baillie Photography Michael Young
CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HZ014
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Hair James Earnshaw Creative Concept Amy Sontae Make-up Meg Lindow Stylist Ozzy Shah Photography Claire Rothstein CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HZ015
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Martin Crean Hair Martin Crean @MODE, Chipping Campden Make-up Roseanna Velin Styling Magdelena Jacobs Photography Richard Miles CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HZ016
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WHAT’S NEW THE LATEST PRODUCT LINE UP
Color Excel Gloss by Revlonissimo, is Revlon Professional’s first ammonia-free toning range with acid technology, which makes it a great low commitment option after any type of lightening service to treat and colour hair gently, providing glimmers of light. There are eight shades and one clear in the Color Excel Gloss collection. www.rdr.link/HZ017
AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT have introduced a new hairbrush which is approved by The Vegan Society and is crafted from FSC-approved beechwood. The brush is also ergonomically designed for optimum comfort, contains a blend of natural and nylon bristles and is heat resistant up to 100⁰C – making it the must-have tool for every stylist’s kit bag. www.rdr.link/HZ018
KMS has introduced three Solid Shampoo Bars which are highly concentrated, formulated with natural ingredients and deliver the same professional-level performance as KMS’ liquid shampoos. The collection of shampoo bars fall into the MOISTREPAIR, ADDVOLUME and HEADREMEDY categories and are free from sulphates, silicones and colourants. www.rdr.link/HZ019
Since its total rebrand last month, Matrix has launched a new chapter of beautiful colour, starting with its re-imagined SoColor. With damage as the number one concern, the new formulas act as an internal bond support system during the colour process, protecting the inner hair structure colour after colour. The 116 shades offer multi-tonal results with protection infused in. www.rdr.link/HZ020
GL Pre-Bonded Two Tones are the latest addition to the popular Great Lengths Pre-Bond range, providing another solution to colour transformations. Available in nine shades, each strand features a blend of two colours. This creates ‘reversible’ strands, with a darker colour on top and lighter one beneath. The result? Enhanced colour, with a truly natural effect. www.rdr.link/HZ021
Dedicated to colour expertise, Schwarzkopf Professional has formulated a specific range of colour enablers, specially developed to upgrade any colour service with supporting products that address the needs of client hair to provide perfect colour results. Including Fibreplex, Bond Enforcing Colour Remover and Igora Expert Kit, this range will take any colour service to the next level. www.rdr.link/HZ022
As mentioned in our News section, ghd is celebrating its 20th anniversary with the launch of the limited edition Couture collection. The futuristic collection features a unique ombré chrome design with the exclusive ghd 20th anniversary hallmark, and includes the award-winning platinum+ styler, the iconic gold styler, and the pro favourite helios hairdryer. www.rdr.link/HZ023
MONAT Scalp Purifying Scrub is a 2-in-1 scrub and shampoo that uses apple cider vinegar, AHAs and sugar to exfoliate the surface of the scalp and hair, breaking down dead skin cells, tackling sebum and stubborn product build up. It is also infused with the innovative REJUVENIQE™, which helps to rebalance moisturisation and creates fullness in the hair. www.rdr.link/HZ024
OSMO Wonder 10 is a keratin-based, leave-in treatment designed to deliver 10 effects in one bottle. For smooth, sleek and more manageable hair, the spray will help repair damaged hair, nourish and protect for radiant shine, detangle and smooth split ends, control frizz, improve the blow-dry process, protect from heat styling, protect colour and much more. www.rdr.link/HZ025
56 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER
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TIMEHOP
100 YEARS OF INN0VATION WE’RE CELEBRATING A CENTURY OF TAKARA BELMONT WITH A JOURNEY THROUGH THE BRAND’S GREATEST LAUNCHES. In a century of innovation, Takara Belmont has created some of the world’s most iconic and technologically advanced equipment and designed some of the most awe-inspiring salons. Here are a few notable milestones in the company’s history; you can also visit on the link below to journey the brand’s new website.
1921
1932
1950
Takara Chuzo Ltd. is established by Hidenobu Yoshikawa.
Production of barber chairs begins.
Manual hydraulic barber chair is developed. 1956 Takara establishes in New York.
The world’s first foldaway basin is developed. 1970
1963
Takara launches in London. 1962 World’s first electric chair is developed.
The predecessor of the Adria is designed.
The Automated Aqua Vibro is introduced. Oasis mobile backwash is developed.
The model 701N is designed by Pierre Cardin. 1980
1959
1989
1990
1999 Takara World Beauty & Barber Congress (TWBC) is held.
The Roller Ball infrared processor is introduced.
2018
2017
2009
2008
Vintage Alt launches.
Zen and Legend launch.
TWBC held.
Spa Mist processor launches. Yume innovation and Yume DX launch.
WWW.RDR.LINK/HZ026
Visit the link to take a deeper look at Takara Belmont’s journey.
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SPOTLIGHT
Easydry launches 100% compostable hairdressing gowns for providing complete protection for you and your clients when salons re-open. The latest in a long list of sustainable innovations, Easydry has unveiled the 100% Compostable Long Black Gown. Born from listening to salons over this difficult year, and learning of a need for a gown that is both hygienic and eco-friendly, the new launch means you can offer your clients their own personal gown at every visit. This convenient product completely replaces fabric gowns and plastic capes, streamlining your client service with just one Easydry gown and one Easydry towel per appointment. The full-length black gowns provide protection for both you and your client during any service. The material is colour-resistant, soft and sits well on the client, ensuring a comfortable salon experience. What’s more, they are disposable, compostable and OK Compost certified – a single use item that is totally guilt free!
Sustainable Solutions 3NE0RS TO
Interested in trying out Easydry’s new gowns and finding the ideal product for your business? Reassuring yourself, your team and your clients that they are protected at every visit with a product that out-performs fabric and plastic gowns? Well, you could win a bag of 30 just by dropping your details at the link below. WWW.RDR.LINK/HZ027 A huge 30 winners will be chosen!
WIN BE CHOSEN
To find out more about this sustainable solution please head to WWW.RDR.LINK/HZ028.
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SPOTLIGHT
BLONDE’S
d n e i r f t s new be L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL ADDS NEW INNOVATIONS TO THE SERIE EXPERT BLONDIFIER COLLECTION.
Blonde hair is always in high demand and L’Oréal Professionnel knows just how demanding maintaining blonde can be. Not only does pre-lightening the hair leave it sensitised and more vulnerable to breakage, but clinging to a salon-fresh shade of blonde can be particularly tricky. The in-salon professional difference is the key to not only achieving a bespoke shade of blonde, but also for prolonging it too. And that’s where L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert Blondifier (aka every blonde’s best friend) comes in. Prescribed by the pros, this bespoke colour-care collection offers the tools your clients need to keep their blonde just how they like it, no matter where they land on the shade spectrum. And now the range – and your clients’ hair – is about to get a whole lot stronger. Introducing L’Oréal Professionnel Blondifier Instant Resurfacing Concentrate and Serie Expert Blondifier Leave In Resurfacing Balm, two new innovations designed to boost the strength and vibrancy of blonde hair. The Instant Resurfacing Concentrate, an in-salon treatment at the backwash is supported by the Leave-In Resurfacing Balm, a new at-home go-to for extra strand solidarity. Containing protective acai polyphenols, this lightweight balm restores the strength of the hair fibre, reducing hair breakage by up to 86% and offering heat protection up to 230°C. To use, simply warm up a small amount between the palms and apply to the lengths and ends of towel-dried hair before blow-drying or styling as usual. To find out more about the L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert Blondifier collection, please visit WWW.RDR.LINK/HZ029 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 59
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SPOTLIGHT
COOLER CURLS A breathe of fresh air from DIVA Pro Styling.
A fresh take on curling, Diva Pro Styling has launched an entirely new concept in hair styling technology with the introduction of Air Curl, a styling iron with the cold shot button of a hair dryer. The Air Curl provides heat and curl fixing technology in one lightweight, easy-to-use tool to give quick, long lasting curls or waves. The curl system requires less heat to fix curls and waves, making it gentler and kinder on hair in one elegant tool. The Air Curl’s winning feature is a cold air button to set hair in place after curling, just like you would set a bouncy blow dry. It also boasts an easy to use digital display, and heats up to 210°C with even results.
Christophe Gaillet, Diva Pro Styling Brand Ambassador
IN A NUTSHELL: ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
Ultra even heat system Touch activated lockable controls 3 metre swivel heat proof cord 80°C-210°C variable heat control Cold Air Fix distributes cool air over and around the barrel Auto shut-off after 60 minutes Multi voltage UK/EU plug adaptor Macadamia, Argan and Keratin infused barrel
With Macadamia, Argan and Keratin infused into the ceramic 25mm barrel, the Air Curl controls frizz, leaving hair sleek, shiny and totally fresh. To find out more about the Diva Pro Styling Air Curl, visit: WWW.RDR.LINK/HZ030
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SPOTLIGHT
A LEADING LIGHT
INTRODUCING OSIS+ KEEP IT LIGHT, A NEW LIGHTWEIGHT HAIRSPRAY FROM SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL. The effortless, undone trend shows no signs of slowing down – coupled with the fact that people are still spending more time at home – natural finishes have become the new normal and the need for lightweight styling options has never been greater. Enter OSiS+ Keep It Light Hairspray to work with this natural trend. With its ultra-light and workable hold, this is OSiS+ lightest and driest hairspray, combining up to 230°C heat protection with a lasting, yet invisible hold. It fulfils the need for low-residue hold, so that stylists and salon clients alike can satisfy their desire for undone, touchable styling – all with heat protection.
THE BENEFITS OSiS+ Keep It Light was inspired by backstage styling secrets, where applying a hairspray before using heated styling tools increases their effect. However, this technique is no longer just reserved for session stylists; with the added need for lighter styling solutions, a multi-benefit formulation is the answer both in the salon and at home. ● Very light and workable hold ● Fast-drying formula ● Touchable styling control ● Up to 230°C heat protection ● Long-lasting compressed format ● Brushes out easily ● Also available in 100ml travel size
COMPRESSED TECHNOLOGY With a sustainable vision and consideration for the environment OSiS+ Keep It Light has been developed with Compressed Technology; the highly concentrated* formula achieves the desired result with roughly half the amount of active formula and propellant per usage**. The compressed spray also comes with a special valve that reduces the spray rate to create a very fine product distribution – a key element in creating invisible hold with a touchable finish. There are multiple benefits to Compressed Technology: ● The concentrated formula improves
sustainability as it allows reduced packaging, and as a result reduces emissions when transporting. ● The compressed hairspray is super-efficient, lasting nearly twice as long*** as a conventional hairspray.
OSIS+ KEEP IT LIGHT: LOOKS AND DIGITAL In collaboration with Schwarzkopf Professional’s Essential Looks Royal Glory Collection, OSiS+ is the key range used to style and finish each catwalk and salon look. Showcasing the versatility of the hairspray assortment, and that there is a perfect hairspray for any look, each trend look uses a different OSiS+ hairspray alongside other OSiS+ styling products: OSiS+ Keep It Light – Light, workable hold with heat protection, as used in the Magical Whimsy trend. OSiS+ Elastic – Flexible hold, as used in the Back to Classics trend. OSiS+ Freeze – Strong hold, as used in the Artful Feeling trend. OSiS+ Freeze Pump – Strong hold pump spray, as used in the Artful Feeling trend. OSiS+ Session – Extreme hold, as used in the Magical Whimsy trend.
● The very small droplets dry in an
instant, don’t weigh the hair down and create an extremely fine and flexible, yet durable veil on the hair.
*Roughly double the amount of hold giving polymers as in conventional hairspray with a comparable hold. ** vs. a conventional hairspray with a comparable hold. ***1 bottle of Keep It Light Hairspray (300ml) replaces nearly 2 bottles of conventional hairsprays (300ml) with a comparable hold.
Explore this season’s must-have trends and the products used to create them: essentiallooks.com. For the latest styling knowledge and inspiration follow @schwarzkopfprouk on social media and keep up with OSiS+ via the #OSiS and #madetocreate hashtags. WWW.RDR.LINK/HZ031
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COLOUR CENTRIC After over 60 years, Schwarzkopf Professional’s ever popular IGORA ROYAL colour brand has been brought bang up-to-date and has undergone a complete re-stage with modernised, sustainable packaging and simplified range assortments but still with the same trusted, high-performing formula*.
THE RE-STAGE Schwarzkopf Professional has always truly supported colourists, creating an empowering mutual trust for professional partners to learn and grow. IGORA ROYAL’s re-stage continues to fuel creativity and confidence, with a campaign centred around the colourist and everything they need to be the best. The IGORA ROYAL re-stage takes colour inspiration, consultation and education to the next level and re-establishes a new standard in colour, paving the way forward for any colourist to achieve their desired level of colour mastery through: ● State-of-the-art product performance. ● Easy, clear and reliable solutions for all colour challenges, from classic to fashion. ● Trend expertise and inspiration. ● Technical excellence and top class education. ● Maximising colour service potential. We all know that colour is the backbone of business for hairdressers and salons around the world, yet it’s also the most demanding service offering, taking up precious time and requiring a range of skills. IGORA ROYAL’s new streamlined portfolio is designed to simplify and improve these challenges with a whole new world of reliable colour creativity and the same high-performing, trusted formula*: ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
True-to-tuft colour results. Reliable, even and luminous colour results. Innovative fashion shades with up to 70% coverage. Natural shades with 100% coverage. Utmost reliability of colour performance. Ultimate colour retention. Holistic portfolio to perform every colour service.
Be Curious. Be Mellow. Be Bold. Be Safe. Be Neat. Be Blue. Be Pink. Be Punk. Be Old. Be Young. Be You. Be the best you can be. Be the Colourist you want to be. Because everything you need is already inside. IGORA ROYAL
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COLOUR CLOSE-UP
SUSTAINABILITY As a driver in sustainability, Schwarzkopf Professional have cut no corners when it comes to the redesign of the IGORA ROYAL lines as they strive “to do more with less”, when it comes to their global footprint. Each of the new colour lines uses the following materials: ● Tube – 100% recycled aluminium That’s 350 tonnes of new virgin aluminium saved per year** ● Cap – 100% recycled plastic That’s 80 tonnes of virgin plastic saved per year** ● Folding Box – 92% min. recycled carton That’s 340 tonnes of new virgin paper saved per year**
IGORA ROYAL: LOOKS AND EDUCATION To support everyone with this re-stage, a range of more innovative technical support materials are available, including new salons tools, technical and inspiration materials, modernised colour charts as well as an updated House of Color App. On social media these will be complemented by Live Sessions with interviews, tips and tricks straight from the experts, alongside a wealth of inspiration. Plus an exciting competition is set to launch from May, where the hairdressing community are invited to share their very own IGORA ROYAL colour creations with Schwarzkopf Professional; the winner will be selected by Californian Colour-Trendsetter, Linh Phan (@bescene) with prize(s) to be confirmed.
THE PORTFOLIO The extensive portfolio has been condensed down from 13 ranges to five, creating intuitive sub-groups totalling 143 different shades – all featuring a brand-new logo and front-of-pack performance seals per subrange: ● IGORA ROYAL Core The iconic red block packaging remains for the core line, with a sharpened assortment of IGORA ROYAL’s Fashion Lines being absorbed into the assortment (IGORA #RoyalTakeOver Dusted Rouge, Dishevelled Nudes, Lucid Nocturnes; IGORA ROYAL Opulescence; IGORA ROYAL Pearlescence; IGORA ROYAL Nude Tones; IGORA ROYAL Earthy Clay & Ashy Cedar, IGORA ROYAL Muted Desert). This creates a more harmonised offering – covering aspirational yet commercial colour trends – that’s incredibly easy to navigate. ● IGORA ROYAL Technical Lines The dedicated technical lines will remain in standalone packaging – to clearly highlight the different technical usage – but with updated and modernised range colours on the box that respect the known range identifiers for easy product selection: ● ● ● ●
IGORA ROYAL FASHION LIGHTS IGORA ROYAL HIGHLIFTS IGORA ROYAL ABSOLUTES IGORA ROYAL SILVER WHITES
For more information go to www.schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk or click on the link below. WWW.RDR.LINK/HZ032
*no formula changes during relaunch **based on 2019 full year sales quantities PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 63
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COLOUR CLOSE-UP
TECH TOOLS Revlon Professional wants hairdressers to challenge everything they know about technical services. WHY? Because, on a day-to-day basis, advanced expertise is needed to give customers perfect colour results with maximum respect for their hair and also the possibility of damage and breakage during the service is a source of worry for both hairdressers and their clients, especially when hair is sensitised or very porous. THE SOLUTION New Magnet is an end-to-end 360° solution for chemically treated hair to empower the hairdresser´s technical skills to overcome any technical challenge with confidence. This range houses all the products needed for before, during and after any technical service to perform with no limits.
MAGNET BLONDES This lightening range achieves the boldest blonde looks with up to 9 levels of lift. ● HIGH LIFT with Ultimate Powder 9 for extreme lifting without compromising hair integrity. ● MEDIUM LIFT with Ultimate Powder 7 (ammonia-free) for medium lifting with maximum hair respect. ● LOW LIFT with Ultimate Soft Lightener Cream (ammonia-free) to clean and even pre-lightened hair. ● OPTIMISE any lightening result thanks to Magnet Blondes Ultimate Oil Developers: Oil based formulas for high respect available in three different strengths: 10 vol.(3%), 20 vol.(6%), 30 vol.(9%).
MAGNET The essential products to prepare, protect and repair hair. ● RESET hair to equalise porosity before any technical service with Ultimate Pre-Technical Equalizer. ● REBUILD hair with Ultimate Technical Additive by adding it to all colour and lightening mixtures. ● REBALANCE hair after any technical service with Ultimate Post Technical Shampoo. ● RECOVER hair integrity after any technical service with Ultimate Post Technical Treatment. ● REPAIR hair and shield it against external aggressors with Ultimate Daily Fix & Shield. ● RESEAL and reconstruct hair with Ultimate Reparative Melting Balm.
THE INNOVATION New Magnet offers a 360º approach in the fight against external aggressors (pollutants, UV radiation, chemical and mechanical factors) since all of them interfere negatively with the hair’s appearance, health and shine. The metals already present in polluted hair will interact badly with the hydrogen peroxide needed in colouring and lightening services, generating free radicals that can break the keratin bonds, making the final colour unpredictable and unreliable. THE TECHNOLOGY At the heart of Magnet lies BondIN System: a protective, rebonding and repairing multistep system – with a combined action to protect existing bonds, repair broken ones and create new ones to help hair stay strong from the inside out, providing a 360° protective shield around chemically treated hair to fight against external aggressors.
“New Magnet is such a welcome addition as it really has given us the tools to provide the ultimate perfection when utilising our technical skills. It has given us the utmost confidence in providing our clients with perfect results whilst maintaining the maximum respect for their hair.” Mark Leeson, Revlon Professional Global Ambassador.
THE HIGH PERFORMANCE While performance is a non-negotiable for the salons, hair strength is a must have for any premium technical range. Magnet challenges the hair´s strength during lightening services delivering three times stronger hair* with powerful lifting and unparalleled cosmeticity.* *MagnetTM service using Ultimate Powder 9 + Ultimate Oil Developer + Ultimate Technical Additive, Ultimate Post-Technical Shampoo & Ultimate Post-TechnicalTreatment vs a std lightening service
WWW.RDR.LINK/HZ033
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MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR MAGAZINE 1. Find the RDR code, usually at the end of an article. 2. Put the RDR code into your search engine.
WHAT’S NEW UCT LINE UP THE LATES T PROD
upping its sustainable ELEVEN Australia is of a Gentle Cleanse offering with the launch oner Gentle Hydrate Conditi Shampoo Bar and a waste packaging. The zero with Bar complete ner bars are an ideal conditio and o new shampo g retail options, meetin salon expand to n additio and demand for more the consumer trend eco-friendly products. www.rdr.link/HY019
d a new line of Great Lengths has launche s. e colour transformation extensions to enhanc of ting light and dark keys Inspired by the contras extensions add a piano, GL Tapes Piano across nine shade dimensional colour results and 40 (30, lengths three families. Available in are suitable for all hair 50 cm), GL Tapes Piano larly suited to fine hair. types and are particu www.rdr.link/HY022
g new Max styler, featurin ghd has unveiled its styling plates yet. 70% the brand’s biggest Max styler plates, the ghd bigger than regular with each pass hair more even wide plates cover s advanced dual-zone of the styler. It also feature a patented heater system ceramic technology, rs the optimum styling which constantly monito across both plates. temperature at 185°C www.rdr.link/HY020
The Moxi Magnifying MONAT Studio One Rejuvenique, is a Mousse, infused with of clinically proven revolutionary blend in achieving an all-over assist ingredients which and flat hair. The thin for feel and fuller look , whilst providing both mousse adds volume any clumps or build condition and hold without to medium hair. fine up, making it ideal for www.rdr.link/HY021
WWW.RDR.LINK/HZ000
from AUTHENTIC The first Eau de Toilette about for skin and hair isn’t BEAUTY CONCEPT ing the up; it’s about enhanc masking or covering ‘you’. It features the notes that make you, the that can be found in signature fragrance Types Hair All PT Y CONCE AUTHENTIC BEAUT fresh linen, white and Styling ranges; think violet notes. ry powde and flowers www.rdr.link/HY023
Giveaway
RT Professional RE/STA from the coveted Revlon scalp and Revlon Win the Volume range starts with a healthy collection. Healthy hair formulated using proven t has been specially microbiome Professional RE/Star and respect the scalp balance that ents cuticle and skincare ingredi s that seal the hair’s ed haircare solution healthiest hair ever. combined with advanc scalp needs for your target specific hair and
To enter the giveaway, and drop your details! simply head to this link WWW.RDR.LINK/HZ000 .rdr./linkHY025 www
on from Rossano The Grandioso collecti Ambassador for Great Ferretti, Global Brand ing comprising a volumis Lengths, is a luxe trio oner plus an shampoo and conditi r, ing spray. Used togethe award-winning volumis s ed ingredient formula the 90% naturally-deriv ed thicker look, enhanc provide hair with a fuller, and natural movement. with plenty of bounce www.rdr.link/HY024
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MY GO-TO APP There’s one for apps-olutely everything. Here are some of your favourite clicks...
KAROLINA SAUNDERS “My go-to app is IN SHOT – I can create all my videos on that super easily. It offers different features like a voiceover option, you can write on the video, and choose from a selection of filters – also speed up the video! It’s a great app for creating social media content.”
SEAN DAWSON, ADAM REED, LONDON “My go-to app is still Instagram both for personal and business. Hairdressing is such a visually creative industry, and it’s still the best platform to INSTAntly engage an audience, although I am loving the new Clubhouse concept as it’s always good to talk and to listen.”
A J MAUD, MAUD SALON “My go-to app in all these lockdowns is Headspace: meditation and sleep. I try and use it daily, it’s just a great way to be able to include a little bit of mindfulness into the day and whatever is going on it usually has something that applies to me personally, whether that’s sleep, stress or anxiety. I think we would all benefit from tuning into this app at the moment with all the craziness going on in the world.”
MARK CREED, IDLEWILD “My favourite app has to be ‘My Jungle’ – the team at idlewild has been freshening the airwaves by filling the salons with beautiful plants – each planted in recycled shampoo and conditioner bottles. The app has taught us how to care for plants as well as hair!”
ERROL DOUGLAS MBE “The app that I rely on heavily and am beginning to recommend at an alarming rate is Calm. It’s great for mental fitness and has purely been designed to help you manage stress; sleep better and live a happier, healthier life. They have a really cool 10 minute meditation which is so easy to slip into every morning – and a glorious division titled Sleep Better Tonight – which, nine times out of ten manages to slip me into slumber.”
PHIL JACKSON, BUSINESS CONSULTANT, BUILD YOUR SALON “My go-to app is Sleep Cycle. During lockdown it’s been so tempting to stay up late, watching ‘just one more’ episode of your favourite box-set – this app has really helped me keep to a routine. The app listens to your breathing and movement during the night to give you a sleep score in the morning. After 20 years I’ve also had to concede that my husband was right all along – I am indeed a snorer!”
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THE ED:IT
Errol Douglas MBE needs no introduction! Pro Hair are delighted to have this ‘man about town’ (although now applying all covid restrictions), on our team for 2021. He brings us just what we need, a little ‘eye on the prize’, a smattering of ‘ones to watch’ and some very meaningful motivational tools that we can adopt to make this year happen for each and every one of us. Follow him on Instagram: @erroldouglashair
MAKE A DATE! At the time of writing this I’ve just heard the news – April 12th– seems like a lifetime away – and it is for the majority of us small businesses. Returning to work with a debt greater than any of us could ever have imagined. The first lockdown Errol Douglas London did get rent relief but not for this latest hit and its cost us greatly. POSITIVITY prevails however – and we are going to claw back every penny – we are going to embrace longer days and remain open seven days a week – the only way we will be able to see any hint of profit before the year end. From my heart – I really do hope you have the faith that we can do this!
LIVING PROOF I am delighted to have been appointed the Pro Expert & Texture Specialist for the very fabulous LIVING PROOF. Currently in love with their strapline ‘We are the science. You are the Living Proof’. Can’t wait to catch up with all the beautiful consumer beauty editors again and give this brand the recognition it so deserves.
IHA AWARDS Glorious to be nominated for the International Hairdresser of the Year award alongside two gorgeous girls Antoinette Beenders for USA and of course the reigning British Hairdresser of the Year Sally Brooks. Too sad that there will not be any live celebrations – at the time of writing even the delivery of the award to the respective winner has been postponed. Watch this space! May the best man win! LOL! Couldn’t resist. Fingers crossed that we will soon all begin to reach some level of normality!
HAIR MAGAZINE So nice to see this incredible title back on beat – its full to brimming with fabulous stories aimed at the consumer market but manages to endorse the professionalism of the hairdresser. Congratulations to Editor Nicola Shannon and the team for such a remarkable job! Check them out at www.hairmagazine.co.uk and sign up to their regular newsletter. Follow @hairmagazine.
SALON STANDARDS AGENCY We think it’s become increasingly important to start achieving accreditation for your salon hygiene standards. We therefore appointed The Salon Standards Agency to accredit our salon with our salon hygiene rating. For our clients it’s impossible for them to tell if our salon practices are clean and safe, resulting in having to judge for themselves. I strongly believe that salon owners like me who prioritise salon safety deserve to be identified and rewarded in this busy market. By a simple door sticker showcasing your salon hygiene rating this informs and reassures clients making choices and reassures existing clients, while strengthening a salon’s position. All you need to do is book a visit from the SSA, take them on a tour of your salon and you will receive a confidential hygiene score and consultation. Great standards attract great attention. Check them out at www.salonstandardsagency.co.uk
SHOWTIME! It’s been great to keep up-to-date with all that is going on with fellow colleagues in the industry but like them I just can’t wait to get back into the saddle. I miss more than anything the creative buzz – the buzz of prepping for shows, seminars and photograph shoots – I lie awake planning my next of everything!
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