Professional Hairdresser March 2021

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MARCH 2021

Professional MARCH 2021

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Reopening the hair & beauty industry will most definitely boost the nation’s spirits.

FOLLOW ME: @nicolaprohair FOLLOW PRO HAIR MAG: @ProHairMag @ProHairMag

MARCH 2021

Your clients are crying out for their post lockdown cuts and colours now as they become increasingly fed up with not being able to frequent your salons. It’s about how they feel about themselves and looking in the mirror your shaggy-haired, root-ridden clients are not happy. Re-opening salons will not only boost your business and the high street – it will boost people’s mental health as well.

As an industry, hairdressers have already put a lot of time and money into making their workplaces COVID secure, so when Boris gives you the green light – you’ll all be good to go! But as we sit in what is hopefully the latter end of lockdown, take time to read the business articles in this issue and use them as a checklist to ensure that you have everything in place to hit the ground running.

With millions of people desperate to get back into your salons – you will all be under siege for weeks on re-opening – cutting, colouring and catching up with sorely missed clients – another much needed boost in the arm for everyone!

COVER: Marc Antoni PRODUCTS: JOICO PHOTOGRAPHY: Jamie Blanshard

Editor Nicola Shannon nshannon@hamerville.co.uk

REGULARS

Assistant Editor

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Megan Danskine

NEWS Industry goings on

mdanskine@hamerville.co.uk Digital Manager Rebecca Mcgeoch

PEOPLE

rmcgeoch@hamerville.co.uk

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Designer Donna Booth Group Production Manager Carol Padgett Production Assistant Claire Swendell Publisher Bryan Shannon Group Sales Manager Oliver Shannon oshannon@hamerville.co.uk

Professional Hairdresser, Hamerville Media Group Ltd, Regal House, Regal Way, Watford, Herts, WD24 4YF. Phone: 01923 237799 Fax: 01923 246901

23 COLOUR CLOSE-UP L’Oréal Professionnel

65 ROB SMITH OF SLICK

26 PANTONE SPECIAL

67 GREEN GOALS With Anne Veck

29 CONQUERING COLOUR With Clayde Baumann

HOOKER & YOUNG With Errol Douglas MBE

32 TIMEHOP With Matrix

14 At home with...

Babyliss PRO’s Sam Burnett

34 COLOUR CLOSE-UP Matrix

16 TALENT SPOTTING With Pauline McCabe

FASHION

COLOUR 20 COLOUR CLOSE-UP Revlon Professional

66 NOCO

68 CREATING A COLLECTION With Tony Haresign

PRODUCTS 71 What’s New

38 ON TREND COLLECTIONS

72 PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT On Leyton House

BUSINESS

73 PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT On JOICO

58 CAROLINE SANDERSON

21 COLOUR CLOSE-UP Goldwell

60 HOB SALONS

22 COLOUR CLOSE-UP Sens.us

64 PHIL JACKSON

61 DAVID DREW

74 PODCASTS What you’re listening to...

75 LAST WORD The ED-it

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To be removed from this magazine’s circulation please call 01923 237799 or email circulation@hamerville.couk. ©2021 Professional Hairdresser accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no responsibility can be accepted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in any form, without prior written permission from the publishers.

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July 19 - June 20

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THE LATEST FROM THE INDUSTRY

Be my Hero WELLA LAUNCHES DEDICATED EDUCATION WEBSITE FOR COLLEGE STUDENTS AND LECTURERS. First class education has always at the heart of Wella Professionals and its latest innovation is no different…introducing a brand new online learning platform named HERO (Hairdressing Education Resources Online).

Wella has teamed up with education masters, MW Education, to deliver an easy to navigate, comprehensive and incredibly useful education platform that is completely free for students and lecturers using Wella products.

HERO has been designed specifically with lecturers and students in mind, providing an engaging and creative platform to share knowledge, with an abundance of resources available to print and download.

Regular virtual demos are scheduled, and the site will house all the latest industry news and vital information for students and lecturers, as well as competitions and career advice on all aspects of hairdressing.

“We are incredibly proud of everything HERO has to offer. It’s exactly what the next generation of hairdressing needs and will be a great support tool for lecturers too.

I am confident this will be well utilised, and we are committed to continually developing the site, so just like the rest of the Wella brand, it moves forwards with the growing demands of the industry,” says Wella’s Ruth Salt, National Key Account Technician.

Winnie Harlow X PM PAUL MITCHELL ANNOUNCES WINNIE HARLOW AS GLOBAL AMBASSADOR. John Paul Mitchell Systems® recently revealed that style icon Winnie Harlow is to be the first ever Paul Mitchell® Global Ambassador. The brand’s 2021 campaign, shot by renowned photographer Micaiah Carter, celebrates the power of self-expression through hair, inspiring consumers to embrace their distinct beauty and explore their personal style.

“Expressing myself through hair is a fun experience that represents different stages in my life.”

Winnie Harlow is known for breaking the beauty mould and following her own path as a successful model and activist, with a tie to hair since childhood.

“Partnering with an iconic brand like Paul Mitchell is close to my heart, as my mum was a hairdresser growing up. I loved seeing her transform a client’s hair, put a smile on their face, and leave them happy and ready to rule the world,” she says.

“Winnie is a remarkable woman that inspires people to be fearless and live beautifully. She truly exemplifies our ethos and we are thrilled to welcome her to the Paul Mitchell family,” says Michaeline DeJoria, JPMS Vice Chairman.

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Educate Elevate and Empower with the #CANTUHAIRINITIATIVE Cantu Beauty launches textured hair professional training.

The UK’s number one award-winning brand for textured hair, Cantu Beauty, is launching a nationwide training initiative to educate hair professionals through a series of virtual masterclasses. The ‘Textured Hair Pro-Training Initiative’ is trying to elevate and address the fact that inequalities are faced by Black and Mixed Heritage communities daily when seeking hairstyling services. The Initiative is designed to empower all stylists with tools and techniques to style and cure for curly, coily and kinky hair.

The exciting new Initiative will be spearheaded

by Cantu Beauty’s resident Natural Hair Education Expert and Celebrity Stylist, Dionne Smith, who will be hosting a series of live online training sessions for professional hair and beauty schools across the UK. Dion Smith commented, “The aim is to implement systemic change by helping reduce the number of microaggressions that our communities face when going into salons and being asked to leave due to a lack of knowledge and overall experience. I’m excited to be spearheading this and feel proud to work with a brand that is committed to support change in making caring and styling afro and textured hair a wider part of the hair curriculum.”

Schools can apply for a FREE masterclass at www.rdr.link/HY001

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KY WILSON SHARES TOP CONTENT CREATION SECRETS Hairdressing entrepreneur Ky Wilson shares his secrets on how to take at-home content creation to the next level in a new IGTV mini-series with BaByliss PRO. During lockdown, stylists have taken to social more than ever before in a bid to keep their creativity flowing, and to share their skills through video tutorials, live interviews and at-home hair hacks.

As well as sharing his own hair knowledge, branding and social expert Ky Wilson has been letting in on how he creates his signature slick content for his social channels, and why this matters to make posts so much more engaging.

Powered by BaByliss PRO, this four-part mini-series ‘Content Creation with Ky Wilson’ covers the basics from getting started and

planning posts, to how to use lighting and other kit. Ky shows how to take the basic at-home production quality to the next level, and more importantly, how to apply this to the needs of a hairdresser.

Ky Wilson says, “On average it takes less than two seconds for someone to scroll past a video on social that they’re not interested in, which is less than the attention span of a goldfish. This new series is designed to show you how to make your content more interesting, visually appealing, and ultimately more engaging.”

Check out the series on Instagram @babylissprouk.

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PEOPLE

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL INTERNATIONAL AMBASSADORS

HOOKER AND YOUNG

CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HY002

In Conversation

with... Errol Dougles MBE

Errol Douglas MBE, a former Mr President of the Fellowship and well… a true hairdressing ROCKSTAR and legend of his time! If you’ve ever had the pleasure of meeting Errol, you’ll agree that he leaves his mark on you with his boundless energy and zest for life. Let’s spill the ‘T’ with Mr D. Michael: At last, we’ve finally made it happen! I know we’ve seen a lot of one another over the years, but it’s never seemed like the right time to pin you down and talk all things Errol. Where to start? I guess at the very beginning. Has it always been hairdressing or was there anything else before you came into the industry?

Errol: I used to be a Drag Queen, haha… I was like the black Diana Dors.

Gary: Haha… too funny, I can actually imagine it!

Michael: You are joking though, right?

Errol: Yeah of course, haha. But wait for it – when I was young, my Mum was a nurse but really wanted to be a dressmaker. She would use me to pin her patterns on as I was the tallest, so imagine – growing up in this ‘macho’ environment with my brothers who were all real macho men, and there’s my Mum dressing me up in dresses all the time.

Michael: Haha… this is hilarious!

Errol: I’d always wanted to do hairdressing, it’s weird but I always felt like hairdressing chose

me, if that makes sense. If I had my time again, I think I’d be a hairdresser in another way; I’d like to come back as John Frieda with £700 billion in the bank, haha. But seriously I wouldn’t want to do anything else, it’s so natural to me like putting one leg in front of the other.

Gary: What age were you when you first started in the industry?

Errol: I think around 10 or 12 years old, I used to go into the salon where my Mum went, and she ended up getting me a job there and I just took to it and never looked back. I was brought up in East London which back then was a very hard area – very racist, anti-Semitic and homophobic – not like it is now, it’s so cool and one of the best places in London.

But my real break into the industry came when I made the decision to leave home when I was 16 and was fortunate to fall in with a group of people who were really artistic and driven. I was sharing a flat with a woman of 30 who literally opened so many doors for me and I was fortunate enough to meet Liz and Paul Edmonds who I started my apprenticeship with and stayed there until I qualified. It definitely was my big break and started me on my career

path. The salon was on Black Friars close to National Magazines and London Weekend Television and Paul literally did everyone’s hair – I was his assistant which meant I got to meet all of his clients and the rest is history really.

Michael: How long did you work with Paul, when did you decide to move on?

Errol: I stayed with Paul until I was 20, but it wasn’t actually Paul’s salon – he worked for Roger Hart and when that ended, we went to work at Neville Daniel and when that went bust it became Richard Ward! It’s complicated (haha).

Paul and Liz then went on to open Edmonds – with me as their Artistic Director at which time I’d started to do London Fashion Week, fashion editorials and pretty much everting else which was a big break for me into that side of things.

Paul was best friends with Lynne Franks who the ‘Ab Fab’ character was based on, and she knew everybody! She was responsible for bringing so many cool fashion designers to the forefront including Vivienne Westwood – they were amazing days back then, but I hardly ever slept – I literally threw myself into everything, I never wanted to miss an opportunity.

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Gary: I think you’re still like that now – you’re famous for your endless energy and not sleeping.

Errol: You’re right! (Haha) I am famous for that, but everything was at full speed back then, I was on the FAME Team, entering awards and doing film work for the BBC – once I moved into that world everyone wanted to come to the salon. We were doing so many cool people, Lenny Henry, Rowan Atkinson, Dawn French, Annie Lennox – literally so many celebrities would come in.

Michael: At what point did you decide to leave and open your own salon? It sounds like you already had the dream job.

Errol: I did have the dream job and I honestly had no intention of having my own salon – I’d seen so many people take that path, and they’d go from looking young to 78 overnight. I’d heard all the horror stories of how difficult it could be with staff problems and everything else, I just didn’t want to do it.

There were three people who convinced me to finally do it, my ex-wife, a good friend of mine from North Carolina, Carmen Cutrona who has multiple salons out there, and my then accountant – now business partner Kim Clayton, I call her my ‘professional’ wife. They were the three people who pushed me into having my own salon, and in 1998 it happened, and the rest is history.

Gary: You’ve made a name for yourself globally in hairdressing, is that something that you set out to achieve?

Errol: You get a lot of people who say “you’ve gotta make it in London before you can make it anywhere else,” it gets me so mad! It’s absolute rubbish! You guys are testament to that – you’re not from London and yet you work all over the world like I do. People can be so London-centric and it gets me so frustrated, you simply need to make your impact in hairdressing and earn the respect of the industry. Two of my biggest breaks were doing ambassador roles for Goldwell and Matrix – they opened up the world to me.

I’d say I was known anyway overseas but it was through their ‘artistic programmes,’ that I was booked to do every major hair event around the world and through that made friendships and connections in Russia, Australia and the U.S.A.

Gary: Anyone who knows you would agree that you always have such great enthusiasm and motivation – willing to pretty much do anything to help others. Would you say that has been key to your success?

Errol: I’m a networker and stick to my word, so if I say I’m going to do something or be somewhere, then I’ll be there. It’s got a lot to do with my upbringing – my Dad never broke his promise, so I get that from him. I’ve always thrown myself into everything and offered my services where I can, and I’m always interested in what other people are doing in the industry.

Michael: Do you find it hard to say no to people?

Gary: It must have been a big decision for you to make that change.

Errol: It was, and it wasn’t because I had just gotten to that point where something had to change. I’ve never spoken about this before – what are you guys doing to me (haha).

The breaking point was me requesting to have a day or two before I started working to give me a chance to gather my thoughts and chill which ultimately is going to get better results – instead of the plane landing, going straight to the venue and starting to work. I just couldn’t work like that anymore; it was killing me. We were told no, things weren’t about to change, so I did two more trips then called it a day.

Errol: Yeah, I do and over the last ten years I’ve discovered great PA’s who can run my diary and organise me because I’m useless at organising myself. Then it takes the awkwardness out of any situations when maybe it’s something I don’t really want to do.

I made a decision a while back not to be directly associated to a colour manufacturer in an ambassador role because although I had some amazing times, it had got to the point where I had no life.

Michael: How do things work for you now, as you still seem to do a lot internationally.

Michael: I guess when you’re contracted to doing a certain number of days you can’t say no. It sounds like you didn’t have a good work/life balance.

Errol: Yeah, completely the right decision, when I look back now, I can see how the way I was feeling had been affecting my work (can’t believe I’m saying all of this)! It was showing in my work – when I got the chance to do my collections I was under so much stress, I’d be on a shoot with this team of people around me and I’d be so wound up which would really affect my work.

Errol: Absolutely, I know it was the same for you guys but at least you do it together.

Practically every single weekend I’d be away from home (mostly long distance) on my own and although I knew people where I was going, it’s just not the same. It got to the point where I had an epiphany – I just wasn’t happy anymore, I was drinking a lot, smoking a lot, basically just doing everything to excess and on top of that I wasn’t sleeping – I was really unhappy and I’ve never said that before.

Errol: Because I’m not attached to one manufacturer I can pick and choose what I do, so I’ve halved the workload and try to keep it more premium and ultimately do jobs that I want to do.

Michael: So, quality over quantity, it seems like it was the right decision?

Gary: I think sometimes you need to go through bad situations to make you appreciate the good things in your life.

Errol: You’re so right, you have to be honest with yourself and that’s what I’ve done – I’ve got this amazing brand that I’ve built with my business partner and now for the first time I feel in control of it and myself. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t have any regrets and I’m extremely thankful for all the amazing things I’ve done with different manufacturers.

Michael: What is your biggest achievement in life?

Errol: My three children, they’re amazing people. I’ve always

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PEOPLE

encouraged them to be who they want to be and would never want them to be clones of me. I’m the same with my team – I don’t want them to copy me, I’d rather find what’s inside them and encourage that.

Gary: Have any of your children have gone into the business?

Errol: My eldest daughter is a qualified colourist; Ruben has tried photography and hairdressing, but it wasn’t for him and is now doing fashion at London College of Fashion. My youngest daughter floats around countries doing languages and just comes to me when she wants something (haha).

Gary: I think you’re right, there are a lot of people out there who share too much and put themselves out there to be judged then the next thing you know, they’re taking a break from social media due to mental health issues.

value other people’s opinion. My personal style can be very hard or very soft and commercial, but I’d say nowadays I tend to keep the harder stuff for show work and approach my collections with a softer more commercial appeal.

I’ve definitely changed the way I work now, at risk of sounding precious – I will stay home the day before a shoot, to clear my mind and make sure there’s nothing clouding my judgment, it allows me to get in the zone.

Gary: I have a big question for you about the BHA’s.

Errol: I’m not listening (headphones on) haha.

Michael: Through your social media platforms you seem to put out a lot of positivity, almost in a spiritual way – is this something you’re conscious of?

Errol: That’s a deep question! (haha).

Well, I am conscious of what I’m putting out there, but I try not to labour a point too much. I just believe in saying something positive or don’t say it at all – you’ll agree that as mentors and bosses it matters what you say to people.

You can ruin someone’s day or life even by saying the wrong thing! I just think you should always try to find the good in a situation, there’s no benefit to drawing attention to the negatives. It’s like if you’ve taken some of your team halfway around the world to work on a show, which is an incredible opportunity and they’re not performing or working at the level they should be – what do you do? It’s about getting people to step it up without getting negative and that’s what I try to do in my social media posts.

Michael: What are your thoughts on how people use Instagram and other social media platforms to build their career/profile?

Errol: I think a lot of people get it wrong!

Instagram is amazing at selling you around the world, allowing you to engage with so many people but you’ve just got to be careful what you say and put out there. It can become so volatile and if you start being very vocal or controversial it can become toxic and people can be very insensitive which ultimately can ruin you. I love platforms and networks that connect you to the rest of the world but use them properly – get your pictures out there and build strong connections through your work.

Errol: Exactly! But it’s become such a problem, some people need social media to survive, to get out of bed on a morning – it’s a modern-day problem. You don’t have a relationship with your phone, it’s fake and creates insecurity which messes with people’s heads.

There are so many fragile people out there these days and it worries me that they are influenced and effected by what others say online. How many industries have people as young as 15 coming through – as a boss and a mentor I like to nurture and guide people but it’s harder now with so many other influences there.

Michael: Over the years you’ve done so many collections – you have a massive body of work and have invested so much financially in doing so. Do you still see the value in spending a lot of money creating a collection when it may be seen online before it’s seen in a magazine?

Errol: I would never preview something first on social media before it had an exclusive in a magazine. I know a lot of people do things that way now, but I like the impact of seeing my work in a magazine and I know you guys are the same, you’d rather wait and let the excitement build around a magazine exclusive.

Once it’s been seen on social media it’s too late to take it back and the moment has gone, also anyone can screen shot your work so it’s out there and shared for all to see. Don’t get me wrong, once the magazine drops, I’ll roll the collection out so it’s everywhere.

Gary: Would you say your style has changed over the years?

Errol: It changes all the time; I like to be influenced and inspired by other people. I really

Gary: Can you ever imagine not being part of the BHA’s? Have you ever thought about not doing it?

Errol: What can I say… I’m used to disappointment! (haha) – I’m an emotional person but have learned to brush it off. ‘British’ is a nomination so I’m never gonna turn that down, if people are nominating me, I’m always going to accept.

Michael: That makes total sense, it’s like getting nominated for an Oscar – of course you’re going to accept. Is there anything else for you to do? Any boxes to tick?

Errol: I feel throughout my career I’ve managed to be in the right place at the right time and yeah there are still things I’d like to do. I’ve always wanted to bring a product brand out but it’s all about timing etc – I’d also like to get some literature out there about my work and collections. I’m really passionate about bringing my team on, I feel like the wizard from the Wizard Of Oz, I want to be the person who brings the best out in these people and the Errol Douglas brand.

Where do we start? Errol is kind, funny and very humble – a true ambassador of British Hairdressing. We’ve been great friends for longer than we care to remember, but this chat definitely uncovered some things we never knew! Cut from good cloth, Errol has an amazing work ethic and good moral values that have elevated him to global recognition, not only for his work but his passion to motivate and nurture others. What a treat this was.

We salute you Errol Douglas MBE!

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PEOPLE

AT HOME WITH...

14 QUESTIONS WITH BABYLISS PRO’S SAM BURNETT, IN SESSION, IN SALON, AND CURRENTLY STUCK AT HOME. Sam Burnett is the owner and Creative Director for Hare & Bone salons. He’s been in hairdressing for 24 years and is also a session stylist working across fashion, music and advertising, with some celebrity and red carpet work sprinkled in too. We sat down with him (over Zoom of course) to find out how what he’s been up to and how he’s dealing with the new normal.

AT HOME What have you been doing since your salon has been closed? How have you been spending all your time?

I’m used to being a really busy person.

I’m normally travelling and working a lot, and planning projects and planning stuff for the team. So it has definitely been challenging and I’ve felt that during this lockdown there has been less to do, because of the weather so I’ve been trying to focus on myself. I’ve done loads of meditation, I walk my dog a lot and I cycle quite a lot, about 100km a week.

Three TV shows you’ve binged during lockdown?

The Handmaid’s Tale, Bridgerton and It’s A Sin.

I’ve been keeping in touch with people that I work with…people in fashion and music just to keep in touch. I’ve also been reading loads. I’ve been to various exhibitions over the years and I always buy the book at the end and never read them, so I’ve been working my way through those.

SKILLS

I think I’m probably like everybody else.

I’ve completed Netflix…but I didn’t take up baking because I’d eat it all!

Must follow Instagram account? @isthisyourclient

Most iconic haircut?

The bob.

How has being at home changed the way you approach your salon business and creative projects?

We’ve moved all of our education for the assistants online, we’re touching base with the team online and we’re doing a lot more theory-based education. I’ve started doing Hare & Bone ‘Elevenses’ on a Tuesday morning. Anyone in the team can just drop in and have a coffee, they’re not obliged to be there.

I’m really conscious of not pressuring.

I know that people are going to be having a hard time in terms of their own mental health and focus, and I think we want to give our staff enough that they’ve got something to engage with but not make them feel like they’ve got more pressure to have to be somewhere all the time.

Best thing to happen to you in the last year?

Winning Independent Salon – Business Newcomer at the British Hairdressing Business Awards.

Are there any skills you’ve been working on mastering?

The main thing I’ve been doing in terms of skill sets is really my own personal development. I’ve been doing it for a few years now anyway and it was like…even at work I never used to take a lunch break, I would always say ‘yes’ to stuff. I have been trying to have a routine at home and I think that’s what I’ve really focused on. Every morning I practice gratitude and do my meditation and do a small amount of exercise before I even have a shower or look at the TV or anything like that. I think it’s just getting some sort of discipline with those sorts of things. Setting good intentions for the day. I've also been working with BaByliss PRO during lockdown and creating content for them at home, sharing my skills with other hairdressers. You can check this out on their Instagram @babylissprouk

Best piece of advice you’ve ever received?

To believe in yourself and be yourself.

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Who do you turn to for support?

Lot’s of people. My mum, my best friend Abbie. And industry-wise, I have lots of friends in the industry like Syd Hayes, my team, loads of people.

TOOLS...

Must have tool?

My staple tool has always been a really good mid-size tong that I can use to create different looks. BaByliss have just launched a cordless version and I’m obsessed with it.

What is your biggest strength?

I think my biggest strength is that I always try to have a positive outlook. I think that always helps me find solutions. I’m a solution based thinker.

When the bars are open again, what are you drinking?

A very large gin and tonic. And a pink champagne. And a pint. Actually I’ll go for the pint first then the gin and tonic.

LOCKDOWN What is the most important thing you’ve learnt during lockdown?

I think there’s been quite a few lessons, but one thing I have really discovered about the hair industry is how lucky we are to have a friendly, tight knit, amazing industry, because so many friends from the industry have reached out to check in …”how you doing, are you okay?”. I’m in a couple of different WhatsApp groups with salon owners and we’re all making sure everyone in that group understands everything, sharing ideas and sharing resources. We support each other…and I think that’s something I knew anyway, but it has really shone through in this situation.

FUTURE What are your plans for yourself and your salon business post Covid?

The first thing I want to do is to get all the team together and set a new intention. I always want all of the team to be on board with everything we do. We’ve got a real open door policy and everyone that works in our business is there because they’ve got something to offer and because we value their skills and their opinions. So I want to get everyone together. I’ve got some ideas about where I think we should push and drive the business, but hearing what they’ve got to say and setting a new intention so that we can get everyone on board and push forward together.

I guess it’s just creating a plan but at the moment that’s a bit tricky as we don’t really know what post lockdown will look like. I think it’s about being happy though. Like whatever you do, make sure it’s fun and you’re enjoying it…if you’re doing that you’ll be successful.

...SAM BURNETT PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 15

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Danny’s Creds Danny’s claim to fame is that to date he has been the only New Zealander to have been awarded the status of INTERNATIONAL HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR – this happened at the Contessa Awards in 2021.

He’s also been the only New Zealander to pick up the title of NEW ZEALAND HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR for four consecutive years from 2016.

And that’s not all – he’s was one of just three FINALISTS IN THE INTERNATIONAL HAIRDRESSING AWARDS 2020, AIPP WINNER 2019-2020, and TCT BEST INTERNATIONAL HAIRDRESSER IN 2020.

An acclaimed session stylist, Danny’s editorial work is regularly featured in Vogue, Fashion Quarterly, Remix and Coup de Main. Hair education shows and fashion show direction have found him working throughout Europe, America, Asia and Australasia!

Passionately involved in charity projects, Danny regularly raises funds for disaster relief, children’s charities and supports various local community groups.

An advocate for salon sustainability, Danny is also the New Zealand ambassador for Davines – and works as an International Artist.

Check Danny out at the following: dandm.co.nz/about; Instagram @dannypatohair; facebook @dannypatohair

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PEOPLE

Talent spotting down under

As a stylist, salon owner, educator, art director and mentor, PAULINE McCABE’s love of art has defined her career and ensured that her hair work is always creatively a cut above. Her keen eye knows a good ‘egg’ when she sees one, and she’s joined forces with Pro Hair to introduce us to some real Aussie gems that will inspire us – here she has a one-to-one with the very fabulous Danny Pato.

Dan’s the man Danny Pato is a multi award-winning hairdresser, salon owner, editorial session stylist, media commentator, international artist, celebrity stylist and art director based in Auckland, New Zealand.

What product do you think the world can do without?

Unnecessary plastic packaging.

What is that one joke that you cannot tell without laughing hard?

2020…

What good happened to you today?

Waking up to 1,000 kisses from my fur baby Bruiser (Shih-Tzu).

When you are gone, what you like people to remember you by?

That I was somebody with a purpose.

Where is your happy place?

In my little English-style garden with my husband and Bruiser, which is where I am right now for this interview.

What smells make you happy?

The garden at dusk – the jasmine, roses, lavender and lilies.

What are the five words you use the most?

Why? Oh no! 100%! Bruiser!

Money or fame?

Both!

What was the last thing you searched for on your phone?

The menu from a new restaurant that opened up down the road.

What do you spend most of your time doing?

Working.

What do you spend way too much money on?

Clothes.

What is the most impressive skill you have?

Channelling the best in people.

What is the biggest change you want to make in your life?

To stop eating chips.

What is your best piece of advice?

Never stop learning.

What do you think is the best feeling in the world?

Cuddling a dog that loves you.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 17

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COLOUR CLOSE-UP

Reclaim the roots There’s a new colour trend in town: Byelayage from Revlon Professional.

This colour blocking, eye catching, striking colour works with root regrowth and takes little time in salon.

It’s the perfect post lockdown colour remedy: ● ●

● ●

Comfort and simplicity is key for Spring/Summer and following months of quarantine.

Clients will be facing some serious root regrowth and looking for something a little more prominent and luxe.

A minimalist colour that not only stands out, but embraces roots.

Offers a colour solution that is arresting and boosts confidence.

#Reverseombre 씰

The new blondes create light and shadows – they are discreet but daring.

The new reverse dip dye technique is easy to maintain and turns hair colouring on its head. The latest blondes are very light, white platinum shades and continue to provide the purest inspiration.

Applied from the roots these shades bring intense, rich light to the top of the head, before descending to blend with more natural chestnut shades.

They are ideal for longer hair and building texture in a move away from discreet, hand crafted looks towards an effortlessly more luminous, sophisticated finish.

씱

#Colorblock

Revlon Professional Byelayage Collection Artistic and Creative Direction Miquel García Cotado Hair: Revlon Professional Artistic Team Makeup Dani Rull Photography Miguel Reveriego

Grown-out short styles that exude minimalist sophistication.

This trend-setting short-to-long look proves that a grown-out short style is not only fun and flattering, but can also exercise in confidence and self-assurance. Beautiful, blush pastel colour contrasts with chestnut shades, adding bold definition to the latest expression of sensitivity in a ‘new femininity’.

This look is open to a range of different finishes, all of which are easy to achieve and have a modern attitude and luxurious shine. This is a look for women who turn to fashion for a breath of fresh air and a way of empowering themselves through their appearance.

Find out more at www.rdr.link/HY003

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COLOUR CLOSE-UP

The Light Fantastic Take a new lightening initiative with superior technology and performance.

Introducing LightDimensions from Goldwell – a whole new dimension of lightening opportunities for professional stylists. This new family of products is characterised by Goldwell’s advanced technology and now includes powerful lifting performance of up to nine levels and the most flexible free-hand solutions to create any shade, any technique, with any level of lift.

The LightDimensions product range with integrated BondPro+ Technology is perfectly matched for individual customisation. Choose between the SilkLift high performance lighteners with Anti-Yellow-System for the clearest and most even results, and the Brightener, for the perfect finish.

In addition, LightDimensions completely reflects Goldwell’s commitment to sustainability. The new SilkLift packaging has been transformed from a traditional box, to a FSC certified foldable pouch made of 80% less plastic, reducing the waste volume by 85%. All folding boxes are produced under climate neutral conditions.

SILKLIFT – Offers optimum hair condition after a lightening service for ultra shiny, soft and smooth hair. Mix and match between four different lightening powders and customise the consistency by adding the Goldwell System Thickener.

SILKLIFT STRONG – up to 9 levels of lift.

SILKLIFT ZERO AMMONIA – up to 6 levels of lift.

SILKLIFT CONTROL PEARL – lift and tone control with up to 7 levels of lift.

SILKLIFT CONTROL ASH – lift and tone control with up to 7 levels of lift.

SILKLIFT 2in1 SERUM – for intensive care and to stabilise the counteracting pigments within SilkLift Control.

SILKLIFT CONDITIONING CREME DEVELOPER – available in 3%, 6% or 9%.

BRIGHTENER – Allows for the perfect finish for your lightening results with a controlled amount of lift of up to 1,5 levels. Soften contrasts for the most naturally blended looks or boost your lightening results with the new customisable Power Toning service with @Pure Pigments.

BRIGHTENER NATURAL – For levels 7-9.

BRIGHTENER SILVER – For levels 5-7.

Learn more at www.rdr.link/HY004

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 21

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COLOUR CLOSE-UP

Natural Science What does sustainable hair colour actually look like?

Sens.us MC2 hair colour is a green sustainable choice for the professional stylist. Its production is true to the ethical principles and environmental sustainability goals of the brand. Sens.us uses water from the Tiber River that flows through its valley to produce the products. Thanks to the innovative demineralisation processes, reverse osmosis and the destruction of bacteria using UV rays, the water is extracted from underground and microbiologically purified. Renewable energy is used and the brand is 100% self-sufficient with its own solar panels using the sunlight of its region of Tuscany.

MC2 is 93% natural vegan formulation and is free from; ● PPD ● Ammonia ● Parabens ● Silicones ● Resorcinol It restores the hair ensuring maximum coverage, shine, softness and durability. Enriched with ARC (Active Revitalizing Complex), a blend of biomimetic vegetable amino acids mimics the activities of the hair’s keratin structure, strengthening and rejuvenating the hair. It has a restorative, multifunctional action optimised to interact at a molecular level in hair to restore hair fibre.

New innovation

Sens.us APP

Colour and restructure hair in a single action Nectar Recovery Restructuring System delivers outstanding restorative results in the sensitised and damaged areas of the hair. A blend of biomimetic vegetable amino acids mimics the activities of the hair’s keratin structure. With natural, certified and innovative ingredients that make the hair’s internal structure stronger, it promotes the ionic bonds with the hair’s keratin structure; it penetrates deep into the fibre bringing hair back to the levels of virgin hair.

22 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

Download the Sens.us APP, the perfect stylist ally to get the most from Sens.us products with its unique colour mixer. There are over 22,000 formulas to help you get perfect results every time.

“I encourage my clients to change their colour look often and MC2 allows me to achieve changes without compromising the hair fibre. The support network is important to me, I like to ‘be part of’ and we have a wonderful group of likeminded hairdressers working with Sens.us. My clients love the sustainable ethos of MC2, I think it is important to look after the future”.

Jude Rizzo, Sens.us International Hair Style Director and UK Brand Ambassador

Post lockdown we may find some clients wanting to spend less time in the salon! MC2 Fast Colour is the innovative professional hair colour enabling you to offer a colour service in just 10 minutes. The structured micro-pigments in the formula, aided by the vegetable amino acids of the ARC (which acts as an ‘easy transfer’), guarantee great coverage and vibrant shine.

With the same eco and vegan friendly features as its counterpart, MC2 Fast Colour is the perfect choice for root retouch, zoning (emphasising a brighter tone on lengths and ends) and creating focus on natural hair after a haircut.

Sens.us is investing in safety and protection for users by using innovative antibacterial paints. This process ensures an uncontaminated and above all, non-contaminable final product thanks to the singlet oxygen contained in them which is activated by natural light. Singlet oxygen effectively destroys Influenza viruses, Herpes viruses, Noroviruses and HIV. Sens.us products are available exclusively from Passion4hair.

Find out more at www.rdr.link/HY005

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COLOUR CLOSE-UP

Au Naturel L’Oréal Professionnel brings you the French Balayage campaign, natural looking, whatever your Balayage desire.

L’Oréal Professionnel knows that Balayage is the number one hair colour trend, the number one online conversation and the number one in-salon service. So the brand is turning this trend into a technique that showcases the professional difference, driving more clients into your chair.

French Balayage is a two-step technique suitable for all hair types, associating seamless lightening to a nourishing gloss with an elegant and natural looking result, which is only achievable by the professional service of a complete Balayage journey.

French Balayage: Two-step technique Step 1: Lighten with Blond Studio using L’Oréal Professionnel’s new Clay Powder.

The new Clay Powder allows you to lighten up to 7 levels.

Providing a controlled and steady level of lift, it helps you to create predictable results, perfect for clients wanting a subtle change. The Clay formula also enables easier application, with little drip or transfer whilst applying. This is a lightener you can work with whatever your level of expertise.

Step 2: Neutralise and tone with L’Oréal Professionnel DIA Light.

DIA Light will neutralise any unwanted warmth in your client’s hair. Its acidic based technology restores hair radiance and closes the cuticle of the hair post lightening. The gel cream texture also provides up to 30% more conditioning of the hair.

What makes French Balayage different? ● ● ●

●

●

L’Oréal Professionnel has French heritage, with hairdressers at the forefront of its innovations.

The Balayage service itself is also descended from the French. Balayage comes from the French word for sweep.

French Balayage is different and unique to L’Oréal Professionnel. The fashion forward brand takes trends and turns them into techniques all while listening to your problems and needs.

L’Oréal understands that the frequency of a balayage client is low.

Therefore French Balayage combats this – it isn’t just a service it is a journey, the secret behind the elegance of a balayage.

The French Balayage journey allows consumers to maintain the elegance of their look by coming back into salon for interim services such as top up toning, face framing, trims and treatments ahead of the next balayage service.

To find out more about L’Oréal Professionnel’s new French Balayage service, please head to www.rdr.link/HY006

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 23

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Illuminating, one of Pantone’s Colours of the Year for 2021, is a shade of strength and positivity. It encapsulates deeper feelings of thoughtfulness with the promise of something sunny and friendly.

In a time where we all need a little hope, it definitely gives us the feeling that everything is going to get brighter.

TH1 Hair

“Shades of sunshine like yellow are definitely not for faint hearted clients but perfect for those who love vivid colours and being creative with their hair. For clients who don’t want to wear this shade all over their hair, this colour also looks great incorporated into balayage or by having some flashes or panels through the hair for a cool and quirky update.”

Suzie McGill, Artistic Director of Rainbow Room International

Rainbow Room International

Brooke Evans “Illuminating yellow, mustard and sunset yellow are the shades of the season and they will brighten up everyone’s moods not only in the salon but through life in general. Taking this trend to the salon floor, we will see clients opt for a deeper shade of the tone such as Cyber, Tuscany and Honey Yellow. All of these hues are so eye catching but also a lot more subdued from the Illuminating yellow tone and are great for clients who want a colour change but don’t want to be too bright or too over the top.”

Dan Spiller, JOICO Colour Ambassador for the UK, Europe and Ireland

Marc Antoni

You Are My Sunshine

“I think panelling will be a super hot trend this season, whether it’s subtle natural colours or bright and bold. This can come under all different sections. A strip at the front or panels underneath.

We are currently seeing a lot of the 90’s trends back in, including chunky highlights and I think this is for sure the next best and biggest trend in hair.”

Brooke Evans of B.E Ironbridge

Rainbow Room International “There are two tone palettes at the moment where the colours are from the same family of but colour different in tone. Chunky pops round the face frame are still going nowhere and are one of our most asked for newer services – this is going to huge once salons are reopened. Products for home care are the key to keeping these colours looking fabulous in between services.”

Sam Ashcroft, Brooks & Brooks Creative Team Member

Mark Leeson

“A huge trend for 2021 is Yellow and it makes sense, yellow is optimistic and symbolises happiness and light and I think we are all looking for this right now. It’s ideal for anyone with a light natural base, but to get that bright pop of colour I’d recommend Revlon Professional Nutri Colour Filters.”

Mark Leeson, Revlon Professional Global Artistic Ambassador

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COLOUR

In contrast Pantone Colour of the Year Ultimate Gray is symbolic of a solid and dependable element. It reflects the colours of pebbles on the beach, whose weathered appearance highlights an ability to stand the test of time. Ultimate Gray is our rock, encouraging feelings of composure, steadiness and resilience.

When Skies Are Grey Rainbow Room International

“I believe 2021’s collaboration of two independent colours, Ultimate Gray and Illuminating, will influence a lot of vibrant blondes in the warmer months and cooler greys, with silver tones in the winter and autumn. When salons and barber shops begin to open up again, I think we’ll begin to see more contrasting coloured ombres and balayage based on the Pantone Colour of The Year. Similar to the grey and yellow collaboration, both stylists and consumers will be eager to experiment with contrasting hair colours that come together to complement each other.”

Neil Capstick, Founder of Neäl & Wølf

KAM Hair and Body Spa “With Ultimate Gray being one of the 2021 Pantone Colours of the Year, we will also see a lot of grey, white and silver hair becoming back on trend in the salon. This hair colour is also great as it can be adapted for blondes. In recent years blondes have become smokier in colour, with clients moving away from vanilla and platinum shades and toning their hair down to more mushroom-like grey blonde tones, where an ashier toner can be used to give clients a quick and on trend revamp.”

Karen Thomson, Owner of KAM Hair and Body Spa

TH1 Hair

“Silver tones are definitely having a moment, following quarantine, a lot of people are embracing their greys and we have seen a huge trend in people dying their hair silver. You do need to keep it healthy, silver hair looks best when hair is shiny and nourished, so we always promote in salon treatments and a professional home care regime.”

Mark Leeson, Revlon Professional Global Artistic Ambassador

“I have always championed silver hair, and will be doing so more than ever next season, as Ultimate Gray will see one of my favourite hues take centre stage. While grey and its many incarnations never go out of style, metallic silver is, for me, the next level of chic, and can really help to bring a haircut to life. I particularly love creating a multi-dimensional metallic tone, and these image from my Craft colour collection pulls together this trend perfectly – beautifully bold metallic silver, worn – as it should be – in sharp, strong cuts for a serious statement and a colour that screams confidence with an icy-cool appeal. While I opted for more of a matte finish and texture in this look, the beautiful thing about metallic tones is the high shine that can that can be achieved. Grey days never looked so good!”

Thomas Hills, Director of TH1 Hair

Neäl & Wolf Mark Leeson

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 27

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Jo O’Neill of TONI&GUY combines the two Pantone Colours of the Year together in this stunning sunshine through the clouds look.

Panelling is an internal detail that moves away from the surface colour application which was on-trend last year. This latest panelling technique focuses on internal strengths of tone creating a prominent distribution of colour where needed. International Technical Education Director, Jo O’Neill says: “A mixture of grey hues and pops of yellow to grab our attention, the colour palette gives platinum blondes a mixture of on-trend tones. Grey with a playful juxtaposing pop of colour, yellow.”

Pantone Panelling Perfection Step 1 A large rectangle section is taken on top of the head using horizontal partings on either side from high recession to meet the radial. The sides are then subdivided with a horizontal parting on either side to create two more rectangle sections. This parting is then continued through to the back of the head on either side creating two more sections. The first section is colour blocked with the colour Silver. Once complete, isolate with clear meche and repeat this application on the opposite side.

Step 4 The section at the side is colour blocked with Silver. This is then isolated with clear meche. Shadow roots is applied with Masonry Grey all throughout the remaining section, Silver is applied through the mid-lengths and a panel of perimeter contouring is applied in Yellow. Repeat this method of application until this section is complete. Isolate with clear meche.

Formulas Pre-lightening: 20g Platinum Plus + 60g Platinum Nutri Developer 20 volume Masonry Grey: 50g DIA Light 7.12 + 75g Diactivateur 9 volume Silver: 50g DIA Light 9.11 + 75g Diactivateur 9 volume Yellow: 10g DIA Light 9.3 + 10g DIA Light Clear + 30g Diactivateur 9 volume

Step 2 A shadow root technique is applied in Masonry Grey. Firstly applying to all the root area. Once completed the colour Silver is applied to the mid-lengths and ends. Isolate each section with clear meche and repeat application on opposite side.

Step 5 To create a panel, a diagonal back parting is taken from the hairline. Shadow roots of Masonry Grey is applied and the colour Yellow applied to the mid-lengths and ends. Isolate with a clear meche.

Step 3 The section at the side is colour blocked with Silver. This is then isolated with clear meche. The next section, shadow root is applied using colour Masonry Grey. A panel of interior contouring is worked by applying the colour Yellow directly underneath the Masonry Grey with no diffusion. The application of Silver is applied to the ends of the hair, repeat this application on the final side. Masonry Grey is applied to the root and Silver to the length and ends.

Step 6 In the remaining section, apply shadow root in the colour Masonry Grey and the colour Silver through to the lengths and ends. Isolating each section with clear meche.

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COLOUR

Conquering Colour In a new series, BHA Colour Technician of the Year 2020 and Global Colour Director at D&J Ambrose, Clayde Baumann, grants us an in-depth look at each of the stunning images in his winning collection.

G

reen is arguably one of the most difficult colours, after yellow to make look attractive hair. Difficult yet not impossible and when executed correctly, it can give you the most vivid hues and dimensions to complimentary tones like Bitter Chocolate. This image was originally shot in my 2018 collection: OPUS and an uncanny similarity was found in Billie Eilish’s debut look later that year, who incidentally wore this look for the first 18 months of her first set of tours.

The Look This image shows a bold interpretation of one of my favourite techniques: ‘Marbling’, whereby areas of the hair are pre-lightened in pockets either on the root or midband areas of the hair and then toned with expressive colour, in this case a ‘Seafoam Green’. I personally find cooler tones in the green colour family generally work best against either a deep neutral tones and with skin tones that can carry darker hues. In contrast it does however also work against electric tones like ‘Raspberry’ and ‘Magenta’.

Let’s talk technique The way in which you apply the pre-lightener is really important – I will generally have four different brushes available when toning the hair.

One brush for the applying each of the bulk load of the two toners and another two brushes used purely for colour dispersion and blending of each of the two tones. One you’ve applied the bulk of the product to saturate the hair that needs the most lightening, I would use the second brush (which should be smaller in size) to softly merge your lines to create a seamless blend that give this colour it’s expensive finish.

It’s also really important to note that with most expressive toners, especially cooler based tones getting the pre-lightened base as clean as possible is also vital. In this instance, I would almost always

suggest pre-lightening with a professional pre-lightener. My favourite go-to is the Blondor Plex lightening powder. Stick to 6% peroxide for lighter bases up to and including a 7 level. Anything darker than a 6 level and I would reach for the 9% except if you are applying to the root area.

Salon relevant? Make it your own.

This range of tones is obviously suited more to your adventurous colour aficionado but I encourage you to try talking to clients who you feel the range of tones would suit. Don’t limit yourself to ‘Seafoam Green’. You can open the possibilities up to other skin tones by extending to varying range of deep and tones in the green family. Some of my other favour green tones include ‘Peacock Green’, ‘Petrol’ and ‘Pistachio’.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 29

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Meet the new

matrix

The first product that Matrix launched was a line of haircare, called Matrix Essentials. This was followed by a permanent wave called Synerfusion.

More than four decades ago, Arnie Miller and his wife Sydell founded Matrix based on the values of synergy and togetherness. Today, Matrix is reconfirming and modernising those beliefs through its commitment to being the most inclusive brand in the industry, led by three key values which define the brand: inclusive, uncomplicated, and uplifting. Matrix proudly welcomes hairstylists of all ages, backgrounds and levels of experience into a supportive community where they are given the tools they need to succeed, including innovation and education to help every stylist realise their creative and professional potential.

Arnie & Sydell continued to innovate, and followed with their biggest launch to-date, SoColor. SoColor offered ground breaking technology, and was the first Permanent Cream Colour to launch in the US.

1988

1980 In 1980, a hairdresser named Arnie Miller founded Matrix, a company whose name was inspired by the idea of synergy and togetherness. He wanted to weave together a matrix of support for every stylist, every hair type and every business model. He created Matrix, a brand where everyone belonged – and everyone felt welcome.

Arnie’s determination to create a sense of belonging for all hairdressers inspired the Matrix Mantra.

Think about the values and principles that you are going to live by.

Believe in yourself, your ability and your potential.

Dream about the kind of stylist you want to be.

Dare to make your dream a reality.

1989 Innovative product portfolios allowed Matrix to expand, and in 1989 Matrix launched into the UK and Ireland.

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TIMEHOP

2000 Matrix was acquired by the L’Oréal group

2021 MEET THE NEW MATRIX. ■ INCLUSIVE Matrix provides the products, services and education that empower stylists to meet the needs of every client with confidence. This includes innovation for every hair type, education for every stylist, and support for every business model.

■ UNCOMPLICATED Matrix creates uncomplicated high-performance solutions for all styles and all hair types, allowing stylists at all levels to colour, cut and style with confidence. Introducing the new SoColor and SoColor Sync Pre-Bonded Colour System launching in March 2021, which you can read about on the next page.

■ UPLIFTING Matrix is painting the town rainbow with bold colours, updated packaging and merchandising, and a new logo, bringing to life the uplifting culture of support and optimism. Staying true to the original founding vision – “A matrix of support to instill confidence in every hairsylist” – Matrix inspires stylists with the confidence to reach for their dreams.

To learn more, follow @Matrix on Instagram and visit www.matrixhaircare.co.uk CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HY007

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 33

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nc colour service Syyour Launching this month is the all new Matrix SoColor and SoColor Sync Pre-Bonded Colour System. These uncomplicated high-performance solutions for all hair types and styles allow stylists at all levels to colour, cut and style with confidence.

SoColor Matrix’s SoColor permanent hair colour range gives every hair strand rich colour and protective nourishment. SoColor is a permanent hair colour range that provides from 1 to 5 levels of lift and up to 100% grey coverage. There are four different collections, Blended, Extra Coverage, Reflect and Blonde Series, and all contain the same pre-bonded, pre-blended and pre-paired benefits.

Blended The SoColor Blended collection from Matrix is a permanent hair colour range that gives every hair strand a rich colour and protective nourishment. Pre-blended with a brown/beige background, it helps you neutralise every underlying pigment.

●

Pre-Bonded for every fibre – The formulas are enhanced with Matrix’s exclusive Bond-Protecting Concentrate to help protect the inner hair structure, colour after colour*.

Extra Coverage The SoColor Extra Coverage collection from Matrix is an extra level to Blended. It’s designed for clients with more than 50% grey hair. Pre-blended with the same brown/beige background, its helps you neutralise underlying pigments with more grey coverage.

●

Pre-Blended for every base – The formulas are pre-blended with background and reflect all in one tube to neutralise even the most complex underlying pigments, for true-to-tone results on every base.

Reflect The Matrix SoColor Reflect collection contains the same rich colour and nourishment without any base – just pure tone, making it great as a stand alone shade, or to mix with the Blended or Extra Coverage shades.

●

Pre-Paired for every service – The permanent and demi-permanent oxidative dyes are perfectly matched so you can achieve seamless, root-to-tip colour, that lasts and fades on tone.

Blonde Ideal for level 7 bases and lighter, the SoColor Blonde collection features Ultra-Light Blonde shades that can only be mixed among themselves and should not be intermixed with other shades. They are formulated for high lift on light brown to dark blonde natural bases.

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COLOUR CLOSE-UP

SoColor Sync Discover the bold, full-bodied SoColor Sync tone-on-tone hair colour which leaves hair feeling conditioned, toned and polished from root to tip. As well as being pre-bonded, pre-blended and pre-paired like the SoColor collection, SoColor Sync has a variety of technologies available including Alkaline, Acidic and Fast toners which last for up to 20 washes and are Ammonia free.

Alkaline Toners SoColor Sync Alkaline toners leave hair feeling conditioned, toned and polished from root to tip.

All the Alkaline toners are intermixable for a blended result.

Acidic Toners Want to deposit tone but not shift the base? If so, Matrix SoColor Sync Acidic Toners are perfect for you. They can be used as a separate service in between regular colour appointments for extra toning, colour refresh or a gloss service.

Fast Toners Discover the SoColor Sync 5 Minute Fast toners which leave hair feeling conditioned, toned and polished from root to tip in record time. With a speedy processing time, they are perfect for colour correction and pre-toning. *after seven applications on sensitised hair

To learn more, follow @Matrix on Instagram & Facebook or visit Matrixhaircare.co.uk

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 35

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Marc Antoni Hair Marc Antoni Artistic Team Products JOICO Blonde Life and Lumishine Photography Jamie Blanshard

CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HY008

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Adam Reed Hair Adam Reed @ Adam Reed Hair Make-up Lan Nguyen Grealis Styling Gabriel Cooper using the Adam Reed Archive Photography Alex Barron Hough

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CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HY009

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Daniele De Angelis Hair Daniele De Angelis, TONI&GUY, London Colour Stuart Matuska abd Charley Hanery Make-up Lan Nguyen-Grealis, Kelly Mendiola, Carine Leanne Jess Styling Dr Manrutt Wongkaew and Sara Dunn Photography Kevin Luchmun, Jack Eames

CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HY010

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HOOKER & YOUNG Hair HOOKER & YOUNG Art Team Make-up Kirsten Baillie Styling Clare Frith Photography Michael Young

CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HY011

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BUSINESS

Award-winning salon owner CAROLINE SANDERSON heads up the Salon Jedi Coaching Academy, and is author of ‘The Ultimate Business Bible for Ambitious Salon Owners’ available on Amazon. This month she shares the Final Part of her 3 keys to growing your salon during uncertain times.

3 WAYS TO GROW YOUR SALON

PART 3

When it comes to growth of a salon there are only 3 ways to grow:

The 3 simplest ways to leverage these 3 areas for growth using the 3 R’s are:

More clients – More spend – More visits

Referrals – Revenue – Returns

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“One of the biggest mistakes in rebooking is asking the customer as an afterthought at the desk, ‘Would you like to rebook?’”

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e’ve covered referrals and revenue and now we’ll look at returns and rebooking - how do you get your clients to visit more often? Often salons will focus on getting new clients through the door as opposed to really concentrating on how to get current clients visiting more often.

This is actually the best and fastest ways to grow your business – to get more visits.

If you think of it in the way of, if you have 100 clients and they visit once more each year at an average bill of £50 pounds, that’s an additional £5000 in the till without any extra marketing costs. We have to get obsessed as salon owners on how we can create that habit with our clients, that they visit regularly.

One of the biggest mistakes in rebooking is asking the customer as an afterthought at the desk, ‘would you like to rebook?’ At this point of service, the customer is focused on thinking about what else they have to do that day, and have switched off from thinking of when they next want to visit. They will be more likely to say they don’t have their diary, ‘I’m busy’ or that they’ll give you a call. Instead, what we really want to be doing as salon owners is making a plan with them during their visit of when they can return by naturally advising or telling them when you want to see them again. This could be saying, “I recommend that you return on this specific date” and discussing with them when they are available to be rebooked. You should also give them the reasons for why they should rebook that day instead of calling up. It could be that you let them know how busy you are and want to ensure you have a time slot carved out to guarantee you can fit them in.

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You have to see this as an extra service that you’re giving them. Let’s say a certain amount of time passes and they realise their hair is in desperate need of a cut so they ring the salon and they can’t get booked in for another 2-3 weeks. That is extremely disappointing for them, but if you encourage them to book during their visit, you are providing them with great customer service.

There are many reasons why doing this is fantastic; for example, they can get the stylist that they want and at the time that most suits them. This saves a huge amount of customer disappointment and also sets them into a routine of how often they need to return to the salon to maintain their hair without roots outgrowing or hair starting to be hard to manage.

You can also offer your clients block bookings as an extra value-added service where they can book their services into the year ahead based on their schedule, treatment and how often you advise them to return. Much like before, this saves customer disappointment by guaranteeing they are booked in with their preferred stylists and not left with outgrown, unmanageable hair. You have to look at this not only as a way to increase profit, but also as an added way to keep your clients happy. In current society, life is extremely busy, and people aren’t as on top of their errands are they were, with rebooking in the hair industry declining. We need to strive to bring this habit back, especially after the detrimental effect the past year has had on salons. Due to lockdowns, some clients have gone upwards of five months without having their hair tended to. Once lasting this long without a salon treatment it is easier to do again so we want to get them back into loving a fresh hair cut or colour that is done regularly again.

So, make sure throughout their treatment you are discussing a plan of what you will do on their next visit and when they can be booked in. If they come back with the objection that they don’t have their diary, explain that you can book them in anyway and if they need to change it they can give the salon a call prior to the cancellation policy time.

Often clients won’t realise how busy you are in salon and respond with the objection that they will book in nearer the time. It is important to let your clients know you are a busy salon and you recommend they rebook for their benefit.

Make it part of your new client system to get new clients returning to the salon three times as quickly as you possibly can, so

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“Once you get a new client in your chair three times they are more likely to stay with you as a long term, ongoing customer.” once they come for their first visit, what can you give them that gets them back in your chair as quickly as possible? For example, we give out new client welcome packs that give them reasons to return.

It might be an offer or voucher that expires within a short amount of time, or a discussion about further treatments on top of their booking you can offer them. It might be that you provide hair and beauty services so encourage them to try another service, such as free mini treatments or at a discounted price. These are all incentives to help guarantee the return of new clients due to the time limit in which they can receive these great offers. Once you get a new client in your chair three times they are more likely to stay with you as a long term, ongoing customer. This builds up a client relationship; only things such as a bad service or complacency would affect their return.

In the last two columns we spoke about referrals, getting your current clients to recommend you to new customers, revenue, how to increase your average bill and now finally, returns. Focusing on these three elements within your salon in 2021 has the ability to grow your business extremely fast without large marketing costs.

To book a FREE breakthrough call with a Salon Jedi coach go to

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BUSINESS

STRIKE A BALANCE Keeping business and creativity on an equal footing.

Akin Konizi

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eing creative is important for any skilled craftsman as it’s their inspiration and quest to develop themselves to keep improving.

Without creativity, your work will become stagnated and your energy level will drop.

You need to be excited about what you do.

As well as running the business with my partners Paul Simbler and Clive Collins, I also focus on the creative side – it builds excitement and enthusiasm around you. It’s important to build your team into a group of individuals that push each other, you never know what will come out of trying new things. If you have that creativity within your business you must find the routes for that – photo shoots, model nights, seminars, creating new fashions and trends. For a smaller company, doing photo shoots, shows and seminars would attract new team members and get your name out there. For a bigger company, you need to get your social media out there, your collections published, be asked to do shows. It is important for recruiting the right type of person; you are only as good as your team. Every salon needs creatives; you could be a commercial salon but you still need someone to come up with trends and fashions. You need the commercial and the service side, but creativity is also important in Akin’s tips for balancing varying degrees. creativity with business I don’t believe any brand or 1 Think about how you can save business can thrive without money – street models are certain aspects that are vital to a cheaper than professional business – creativity, models, work with stylists and consistency and service. It make-up artists who are looking depends what type of business to build their portfolio, join or hairdresser you want to be groups such as the Fellowship. depending on what degree of 2 Work towards your own those ingredients you have. budget. Shoots and shows can That’s how we run HOB – I am be a drain on your business so the creativity, Paul is our there has to be a return. consistency and director Clive 3 Financial restraints come into it, Collins takes care of our service. especially at the moment, so you These are the ingredients every need to work out your objectives, business needs. Ultimately you otherwise you are wasting your want a better team, which time and money. equals better clients, which equals a busier salon.

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Running a business alongside creativity is a balancing act; ask any successful hairdresser or salon owner and they will tell you, you can’t have one without the other. So how do you balance the two? HOB Academy’s International Creative Director, Akin Konizi, and Director, Paul Simbler, talk about creativity and business working hand in hand.

Paul Simbler

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t’s mainly creative people that come into our industry; creativity is essential to be able to build and maintain a flourishing clientele. If you’re not creative enough and just try and copy parrot fashion what you’re seeing in the salon, then soon enough you’ll get found out and will find it difficult to build a clientele. It’s so important you know why you’re holding hair at certain angles or why you may or may not use different techniques to achieve different looks and not just doing it because you’ve seen someone else do it!

HOB is built on education and therefore creativity is at the very heart of everything we do. It is driven through our education and creative team led by Akin Konizi and Head of Education, Jake Unger. We don’t tend to use budgets but look at the return on the investment. Akin has always been very objectively led and this is what all creative and business decisions are based upon.

In my opinion, you can’t have a successful business without some aspect of creativity; shoots, shows, education Paul’s tips for balancing etc are all a very important business and creativity part of the business. First 1 Make sure you get the right and foremost, it’s good for balance in your team of creative recruitment. It’s so versus money-hungry people. important to have the right You’ll lose out in one way or staff to build your client another if you only have one type base. It’s essential to have in the salon. the right team in place for 2 With no creative opportunities, the salons to become you won’t grow and your business successful. No clients will have a certain life span. equals no business. Clive 3 It’s very easy to become the Collins does all the salon that ‘used to be busy’ if you recruitment for the don’t have creative people on company and when he asks board. them ‘why HOB’ a large 4 Plan your creative part of your percentage say because of business at the end of the the education and previous year. This way you are collections we produce, so ready and prepared and it makes we know the importance of life and budgeting a lot easier. this first hand.

Planning ahead if essential, but be careful as you can easily get carried away and it can end up costing a fortune. However, with technology being so fantastic at the moment there are ways to do shoots on a budget. I don’t think anything can replace a fantastic photographer but if you don’t have the money, look for ways to make it happen. You’ll be surprised what can be achieved.

Instagram: @hob_academy www.hobsalons.com/academy

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Lockdown will end but can hair salons and barbershops survive? Industry expert David Drew looks at what you need to succeed.

BE A BUSINESS WINNER

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oney worries unfortunately mean that many hair salon and barber business owners cannot be free. We all want to be financially free, to do what we want, as and when we want to with our lives and our money!

Control your financial destiny The global pandemic and Brexit makes getting your finances in order even more critically important: the stakes could not be higher! Our wonderful hair and personal care sector saw a fantastic economic bounce-back in the form of a ‘V’ shape when the economy re-opened at the end of the lockdown last summer.

It’s time to wisely evaluate your business finance plan and get ready for re-opening after this current lockdown.

You will need to: Put up your prices! It is absolute madness to assume that your business can re-open while still charging the same amount for your services as you were before lockdown. During the last lockdown, we all learnt how much our clients appreciated us and our services – more than ever before!

Most consumers now have more disposable income to spend (due to not going out as much or on holidays during the pandemic) so they will be only too happy to make an appointment at your salon or barbershop and cost won’t be their priority! In fact, many clients may wonder why you haven’t put your prices up when every other high street business has. As the old saying goes: If you don’t charge enough people will think you’re not good enough!’

If you don’t charge enough people will think you’re not good enough!’

Examine your current business overheads, including: Rent: Negotiate with your landlord if you are struggling to pay your rent and don’t forget that eviction for non-payment of rent on commercial premises is banned across the UK until 31 March 2021.

Stock: Ask your suppliers to extend their credit terms, preferably to 60 days from re-opening. This will also help to ease your cash flow.

Payroll: The furlough scheme is currently a life saver for all businesses as wages are the biggest business expense. But even with the vaccine being rolled out, I believe the coronavirus will be a major issue for a long time and some restrictions will continue in the hair and beauty industry. You must evaluate your business payroll to make sure that it is never more than an absolute maximum of 45% of your net turnover. As a coach, I work with business owners and managers to get the payroll percentage to 38% of net turnover.

Get your USPs (unique selling points) right: Consumer behaviour has changed drastically making health and safety protocols, systems and procedures the new gold standard for services that savvy clients will be looking for. They will want to feel personally safe and sincerely cared for, valued, comforted and special. They will also want to be confident that they are dealing with an expert and the best professional their money can buy.

Make these factors your USPs and you will be the high street business winners in the future.

Visit my website www.impactbusinessconsultant.co.uk and look at the ‘What I Offer’ page for free use of an Amazing Profit Boosting Calculator that will work out for you what you need to charge your clients to make decent profits!

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BUSINESS

Business consultant Phil Jackson from Build Your Salon, considers the best ways to set yourself goals in this unusual year.

MOVING THE GOAL POSTS

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Spend time setting your new goals for 2021

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y any measure, 2020 was a terrible year. I’m usually a glass-half-full kind of person but any coach who pretends that there was anything great about the salon business last year is out of touch and I pride myself on my connection with the

industry.

It’s OK to feel overwhelmed, emotional, teary, depressed and overwhelmed right now. And while January and February are usually months full of great intentions and exciting plans, it’s been hard to get excited and start setting goals.

There is freedom that comes from what we’ve been through, however. Your struggle had nothing to do with your customer service, whether you posted enough on social media or whether you set your prices correctly. The thing that did the most damage to your business in 2020 had nothing to do with you and you couldn’t have seen it coming. I find that a liberating thought to take into this year.

Now things are different though. Though far from ideal, our circumstances aren’t a surprise or unforeseen. Which means it’s time to make plans. And with every goal you set, make sure there’s a lockdown-proof Plan B: we are still a long way from out of the woods.

Before we get back into our salons, take some time to figure out what it is you want from your business. So many of us have woken up to a new set of priorities, realising that we want family and friends to come ahead of business.

Others have found the opposite and want to go all-in with their salon. Either way, this might be your last chance to decide what is really important and to set out a different vision for your salon’s future.

I’m sure I’m not alone in realising I was asking too much from my salon – I expected it to not only provide me with an income, but to satisfy

my social needs, my sense of purpose and my outside interests too. While my passion for the industry is keen, I’m now recommending we take a more rounded view, because if your business is taken away – albeit temporarily – so much gets taken with it. When I’m setting goals with my coaching clients now, I suggest they put as little pressure on the business as possible. All salons are beaten and bruised and need gentle nurturing back to life.

There is good news, however. Though the number of hair and beauty businesses closing has been alarming there are clients looking for a new salon. Similarly, there are highly qualified teams looking for a new place to work. Combined with the way that government financial help was rolled out in the UK there are also a lot of self-employed stylists and therapists who no longer see self-employment as attractive. Add to that a deep-rooted and widespread affection for local and family businesses right now, owners with ambitions for growth are in a place of opportunity.

More than anything, as you set out your plans for 2021, please recognise the amazing achievement of you still being here to fight another round. You got this!

For more information: www.buildyoursalon.com

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UP YOUR GAME

Robert Smith is the co-founder of salon software brand Slick that has partnered with L’Oréal. Here he discusses the importance of using this time to upgrade your salon booking process.

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et’s face it’s been a frustrating winter for us all! We’ve all been there feeling flat! It’s normal! But the smart salon owners amongst us are using this time to get ahead of the competition and up their salon game!

From redecorating to team education; there are lots of potential improvements you can make when you have a few hours on your hands. However one of the biggest improvements you can make is a really unsexy one: sort out your salon software!

Our entire business is based around appointments and clients! So why do so many salons still leave their precious clients and appointments in a paper book? We upgrade our Samsung or iPhone every two years, so why are we are some of us still using the paper diary from 30 years ago?

Bouncing back from COVID, salons need all the help they can get. Now is the ideal time to invest in a system that helps you manage your clients, stops no shows and helps grow your business and it’s clear just how much a good system can add to your business.

We see a massive change for the salons coming from pen and paper: on average after the first six months, our salons are taking 20% more than they were when using paper! We know most salons get one or more no-shows or last minute cancellations a week simply because the client forgot. Our system sends a free reminder text to each client 48 hours before the appointment which stops no shows and last minute cancellations instantly. This adds £30-80 a week to your takings minimum!

Salon systems used to be complex and expensive but with systems such as Slick starting from £10 a month; they are now great value for money: If £10 a month stops one no show then that’s a profit of £30-40 instantly.

Whilst it clearly helps you to earn more by increasing client bookings, these

cloud-based systems also allow you to spend more time with clients and more time running your business. With everything from deposits to client contact details to colour notes all in one place, staff can save hours of admin a week.

According to Mark Creed, co-owner of the award winning Idlewild salon in Oxfordshire, “‘New’ makes so many people nervous. We were clinging to the ‘control and security’ of the paper and pencil but we saw clients were getting more and more frustrated with our salon booking process: people want to book at 8pm at night like they can with a hotel. As an owner, I felt we were doing too much admin and not spending enough time behind the chair doing what we do best which is why we installed the Slick system into our salon. I can genuinely state that since we’ve made the switch it’s been a true revelation. Now if a client texts me on Sunday evening asking if there is a slot available on Monday afternoon, I can check my diary live on my phone and book them in. How cool is that!”

Verity Ollerenshaw who owns a stunning new studio in Leeds decided to use

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lockdown to upgrade: “I finally decided to ditch the diary and I just wish I had done it years ago. The Slick system I use is super easy to use meaning I don’t get behind on clients as I don’t need a desk top to work! I can go home, eat, watch Netflix and then glance at my phone to know exactly what I have in the salon the next day.

We laugh now at how we managed to survive with a paper diary. What we love about Slick is the team totally understands hairdressers. They are such a forward thinking brand and you know that being partnered with L’Oréal means they are going to be one of the best in the industry. Education is key for hairdressers so they give each salon free 1-2-1 training and if there is ever a problem, the chat in a click away and there is always someone available like I have a whole family supporting me.”

We work directly with salon owners like Mark and Verity to build a system that works even for the biggest technophobe: think of it as a system built by hairdressers, for hairdressers.

Simplicity is key which is why Slick won a recent award for the Best Ease of Use among all the salon softwares.

Mark Creed @Idlewild and Verity Ollerenshaw @ Routed Creative are Ambassadors for Slick

Head to www.getslick.com to book your free demo and claim your exclusive Professional Hairdresser offer of 50% discount off your first 3 months with Slick using code ProHair3.

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BUSINESS

COMMUNITY SPIRIT

Like a business support bubble, Corey Taylor and Noel Halligan at NOCO Hair, Bristol, say being part of your local community has never been so important.

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Top Tips for getting involved in your local community.

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any businesses are facing challenging times right now and are having to adapt to survive. For us, being part of our community has always been important and it’s never been as important as now. Knowing that you have a network of support with each business promoting one another will help to keep the buzz of the high street alive. During lockdown we need to pivot our business to become more digitally savvy; being active on social media by engaging with clients and other businesses only strengthens our position.

We have our own charity initiative called ‘Care with Hair’. We work closely with Penny Brohn UK to raise funds for them, as their cause is very close to our hearts – helping people to live well with cancer. Prior to lockdown, we held a cutting afternoon at their wellness centre, held an event at the salon with a makeover for one of their service users and Noel is an avid marathon runner with sponsorship and donations going straight to this brilliant cause.

NOCO Hair assisted the Reflections Training Academy team with their event to raise funds for OTR Bristol.

Our creative team styled the hair for the models that was showcased on the catwalk during the event.

Last year following the first lockdown we gave away 100 free haircuts.

At a time when everyone needed a pick me up, this initiative worked really well. We gave 90 haircuts to local charities for them to auction or use in competitions to raise funding or to give to service users that needed it. The other 10 were for the Little Princess Trust – with a minimum of 8” being cut off. The results of this campaign were fantastic, it was so humbling to give back to the world at such a challenging time and we also gained lots of lovely new clients. More recently, we have raised funds for the Jessie May Charity by selling beautiful handmade reusable facemasks.

Currently we are looking at ways to collaborate with other businesses, ideally creating a network of non-competing businesses in the local area. We have proudly teamed up with Clifton Dental and

support one another through means of client referrals and client loyalty rewards. Supporting local businesses and building relationships with everyone in our surrounding area keeps a friendly, community feel. To be part of a network of people that can support one another makes each business stronger.

Being an active part of the community has paid dividends to our own business, wellbeing and sense of worth. For salons thinking about getting involved in their local community, here’s our top tips: 1 Pair up – with local businesses that share the same target market as you. See what incentives you can provide for one another’s clients/team.

This could be used to drum up new business, reward loyalty or provide staff benefits.

2 Reach out – to other businesses out of your sector, explain how you could be an effective partnership.

3 Take time to identify your ideal client – where would they shop, where would they grab a coffee, how would they spend their weekends etc. Once you understand this you can reach out to more relevant businesses.

4 Host events – whether in person or virtually. Get everyone together to create a united community.

Website: www.nocohair.com Instagram: @nocohair

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SUSTAINABLE SALON LIFE

GREEN GOALS PART THREE – ANNE VECK’S RESOLUTIONS TO SUPPORT SALONS’ SUSTAINABILITY GOALS.

Over the last two issues, we’ve shared insight from Anne Veck and Keith Mellen; owners of Anne Veck salon and the brains behind Salon Re:Source – a comprehensive guide for hairdressers and salon owners on a mission to become more sustainable.

The three-part guide starts with Quick Wins, before developing into Next Steps and, finally, Major Changes. In the final part of our series, we’re sharing some of these bigger actions that you and your salon team might consider when you’re ready to fully commit to transforming into a more sustainable and ethical salon business.

“Do something amazing today; make some giant steps to save the planet!” says Anne.

“These are big changes to how you run your salon and will need investment in both money and time, but they will make a real impact and save you money in the long run.”

Anne and Keith have undertaken many of these major changes in their own business, winning them Carbon Neutral status and making them go-to green pioneers in the hairdressing industry. While these changes are transformative, they have also provided steps for every stage of your sustainability journey – to access the whole three-part guide, for free, visit bit.ly/SalonReSourceUK. 1. Move to a sustainable and ethical product supplier There are an increasing number of well-known hairdressing product brands which are now offering safe, ethically and sustainably-produced products and packaging, free of harsh chemicals and including organic and vegan products. This change needs careful consideration, so take your time to research and make the right decision for you. It should not cost you financially and your new supplier should exchange your old stock for new at cost.

2. Become vegan To make your salon vegan is a major undertaking, because as well as being sustainable you would need to use no products that

contain animal derivatives or that have been tested on animals across everything from products to furniture to refreshments. Another option is to cater to vegans, giving your clients a choice. Stock vegan hair products. Several well-known companies say the majority of their products are vegan and there are a few who are entirely vegan.

Consider the limitations (if any) of their colour products.

3. Refit your salon Generate your own renewable energy with solar panels, air source heat pump or heat exchange. Current estimates have energy prices at 11-15p per kWh, whereas the cost of producing your own is around 5p per kWh depending on the technology you use.

At Anne Veck, we invested in a BlueGen in 2013. This is a micro CHP system (combined heat and power), based on fuel cell technology and optimised for maximum electricity generation from the natural gas supply. It is ideal for small businesses and private households and with it, we have reduced both our energy costs and CO2 emissions by around half.

The final part of Salon Re: Source contains lots of considerations for the major changes you may wish to make to your business. These include: An indepth guide to everything you need to consider – and what to ask – when changing product suppliers for sustainable and ethical results.

Insight into refitting your salon, including the suppliers and ideas that Anne and Keith used in their own salon and the questions and considerations you need to keep in mind.

Salon Re:Source also contains information on accreditation for sustainable and ethical salons, and contacts for even more support in your green journey. For more information and to download the guide for absolutely free: bit.ly/SalonReSourceUK.

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MENS

PLANSSHOOTPUBLISH

part 2

TONY HARESIGN IS A MASTER BARBER WITH OVER 30 YEARS’ EXPERIENCE IN HAIR AND PHOTOGRAPHY. IN THIS SERIES FOR PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER HE ASKS “WHY SHOULD YOU CREATE YOUR OWN HAIR COLLECTION?” HOW CAN I CREATE MY OWN HAIR COLLECTION? As we look through the pages of such illustrious magazines as Professional Hairdresser, we are inspired by the amazing, creative and moving work that fills the pages…

We yearn to create similar work.... But how? Everyone wants to know what happens on a shoot and how it all works.

I am going to share that with you and let you get behind the scenes to find out what you need to know to get cracking with your own hair collection.

There is a lot more to it than most people think, and the majority is done in the planning stage (see Feb Issue), to make sure that the shoot runs smoothly, and that you are prepared for all possible scenarios and mishaps.

PREPARATION When working on models prior to the shoot i.e. your prep area, you can expect to be in a variety of spaces, ranging from a tiny box room to the more palatial surrounding of a hotel suite. Wherever it is, this is where you will prepare your models, so make it your space. I like to move things around to suit, and put some music on to get the vibe going, I take a mini speaker along with me.

It is important to make sure the model is 100% ready before going onto set, so as not to waste the valuable time of the photographer. So to reduce what has to be done on shoot day, I like to prepare around 80% of the cut and any colour or chemical work is done well in advance, this can be prepared in the salon a few days before.

Never underestimate how much mousse, wax, clips, pins and hairspray you will need on the day, always take extra, as often there won’t be anywhere nearby to buy the right stuff. It will always run out at the most inopportune times!

Also it is super important to make sure you have all the required PPE (gloves/masks/visors etc) along with something to sterilise your equipment between models, such as Saloncide.

WORKING WITH MODELS I am often asked why I don’t include models as part of the team and this is because models will change. You could work with the same photographer and make-up artist, stylist and assistant on multiple shoots. If you use the same models all the time, magazines are less likely to use them, especially on covers.

Always book an extra model if possible, you never know what might happen on the day, i.e. models can’t find the studio or have had a heavy night out.

HOW TO FIND MODELS? Using model agencies is the best way to ensure that you have someone who can perform in front of the camera, after you have put your heart and soul into your hair creation.

For your first shoot or to keep the budget down is to look through the ‘New Faces’. They tend to have much lower fees, and if you speak to the agency, they may have models that want to build their portfolio, so would be willing to shoot for free. Offer to cover their travel expenses, lunch and supply images to the agency.

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ON THE DAY...

Stay calm and hope everyone turns up on time. Give everyone involved another copy of the ‘Call Sheet’ with all the information of timings, requirements and what is expected of them. Ask your assistant to help with the scheduling of make up and styling so that you run on time.

It can take some time with the first model working out the lighting or level of make-up required. Sometimes you may have to do more styling or even change it up.

Don’t panic...things normally speed up once you’re set up. To add more clarity, I asked renowned photographer, Matt Marcus (mattmarcusphoto.com) who I have worked with on several collections, for his insight into what makes a successful hair shoot: 1. Stick to your mood board and original ideas – often first timers get carried away and try to add in stuff on the day or change ideas around too much. Avoid this and stick to the plan.

2. Keep it simple – don't go off track – MUAs and Stylists can bring their own influence, but make sure it doesn’t detract from your original ideas. Don’t be afraid to say no!

LACK OF BUDGET? Lack of budget, especially for models, is often a factor for people not even attempting to create their own hair collection. Of course, shoot budgets can run into the thousands, but it can be done for virtually next to nothing.

Search through Instagram, look under hashtags such as #londonmodelsearch #londonmodels, or wherever you are based, and see if anyone is suitable.

Direct Message them via Social Media and ask if they would like to collaborate.

Offer them expenses and copies of the images for their time. Facebook Groups also has lots, for models in various geographical locations, so look them up too.

Clients can also be good models, but try some test shoots with them, before getting them on to a big shoot, in case they are not up to ‘modeling’ in front of the camera.

And always keep a business card on you

so if you see someone in the street you think may be suitable, approach them and ask. Believe me, they will be flattered, and they may even say ‘Yes!’ WORKING WITH THE TEAM Make sure you allow enough time between models so everyone can do their job, Make up can take longer than you think. Allow the stylist time to dress the models and add the finishing touches.

The photographer may also take a while to get the lighting right. So don’t cram them in. Give yourself time.

CLOTHING / SETS / KIT Plan to have at least two extra outfits, just in case the original ones don’t work out on the model. Sometimes, somethings just don’t gel on the day, so have alternatives, A stylist will help with the clothing and set, bringing the shoot together. And you have to remember all your kit and spares for the whole day.

3. Find the importance of each look – identify what is the ‘focal point’ of the shot/look. Is the quiff or the fade, maybe it is the colour. Take these factors into account when discussing the shot list with the photographer.

So get brainstorming, create a Mood Board, get planning and prepare yourself to produce your first hair collection. See you in the next issue for part 3, where I will focus on how PUBLISH your collection. Touching on topics that will cover Photography Rights, Editor Negotiations and Big Mistakes to avoid.

And don’t forget if you would like to grab a FREE copy of my latest book UOMO – Hair Collection Mastery, which gives you the BLUEPRINT of ‘How To Plan, Shoot And Publish Your Own Hair Collection’ sign up at www.haircollectionmastery.com/bookoffer

Tony Haresign @hairbytonyharesign hairbytonyharesign.com haircollectionmastery.com CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HY018

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THE LATEST PRODUCT LINE UP

WHAT’S NEW ELEVEN Australia is upping its sustainable offering with the launch of a Gentle Cleanse Shampoo Bar and a Gentle Hydrate Conditioner Bar complete with zero waste packaging. The new shampoo and conditioner bars are an ideal addition to expand salon retail options, meeting the consumer trend and demand for more eco-friendly products. www.rdr.link/HY019

ghd has unveiled its new Max styler, featuring the brand’s biggest styling plates yet. 70% bigger than regular styler plates, the ghd Max wide plates cover even more hair with each pass of the styler. It also features advanced dual-zone ceramic technology, a patented heater system which constantly monitors the optimum styling temperature at 185°C across both plates. www.rdr.link/HY020

MONAT Studio One The Moxi Magnifying Mousse, infused with Rejuvenique, is a revolutionary blend of clinically proven ingredients which assist in achieving an all-over fuller look and feel for thin and flat hair. The mousse adds volume, whilst providing both condition and hold without any clumps or build up, making it ideal for fine to medium hair. www.rdr.link/HY021

Great Lengths has launched a new line of extensions to enhance colour transformations.

Inspired by the contrasting light and dark keys of a piano, GL Tapes Piano extensions add dimensional colour results across nine shade families. Available in three lengths (30, 40 and 50 cm), GL Tapes Piano are suitable for all hair types and are particularly suited to fine hair. www.rdr.link/HY022

The first Eau de Toilette from AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT for skin and hair isn’t about masking or covering up; it’s about enhancing the notes that make you, ‘you’. It features the signature fragrance that can be found in the AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT All Hair Types and Styling ranges; think fresh linen, white flowers and powdery violet notes. www.rdr.link/HY023

The Grandioso collection from Rossano Ferretti, Global Brand Ambassador for Great Lengths, is a luxe trio comprising a volumising shampoo and conditioner plus an award-winning volumising spray. Used together, the 90% naturally-derived ingredient formulas provide hair with a fuller, thicker look, enhanced with plenty of bounce and natural movement. www.rdr.link/HY024

Giveaway Win the Volume range from the coveted Revlon Professional RE/START collection. Healthy hair starts with a healthy scalp and Revlon Professional RE/Start has been specially formulated using proven skincare ingredients that balance and respect the scalp microbiome combined with advanced haircare solutions that seal the hair’s cuticle and target specific hair and scalp needs for your healthiest hair ever.

To enter the giveaway, simply head to this link and drop your details! www.rdr./linkHY025

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SPOTLIGHT

Nature’s best kept secret Introducing Leyton House Professional’s all natural RHASSOUL collection for all hair types.

Leyton House Professional always strives to find the best ingredients for its all-natural formulations and this range is no different with its use of RHASSOUL. Rhassoul is a lava clay sourced from the base of the Atlas Mountains, used by natives for thousands of years for its natural cleansing, moisturising and healing properties. It is non-irritating to the scalp, enhances hair volume, adds shine without excess oil and effectively reduces dandruff and equalises sebum.

SLES FREE Rhassoul is made up of a trio of SLES free surfactants. Leyton House Professional’s unique blend offers a gentle soothing, nourishing yet rich cleansing lather solution to penetrate the hair cuticle and deeply cleanse the hair while gently improving overall hair health.

The RHASSOUL collection includes a Revitalise Energizing Shampoo and Conditioner, a Colour Care Moisturising Shampoo and Conditioner and a Hair Recovery Masque.

To find out more about Leyton House Professional’s RHASSOUL range please visit www.rdr.link/HY026

Your chance to Win The Leyton House Professional RHASSOUL Hair Recovery Masque is enriched with Rhassoul minerals and Sweet Almond Oil which is known to help prevent split ends, as well as Omega-3 fatty acids, Vitamin E and Magnesium, a natural combination that is high in antioxidants.

The perfect treatment for any hair type, the Hair Recovery Masque absorbs into the hair follicles and scalp to help protect, strengthen condition and lock in moisture to prevent dehydration of the hair and scalp. It will also assist in soothing dry, irritated skin. This treatment is so light, a little will go a long way.

If you’d like to get your hands on a Leyton House Professional Rhassoul Hair Recovery Masque to try out yourself, we’ve got 10 up for grabs.

Simply drop your details at the link below to be in with a chance of winning one.

Enter your details here to win!

Find out more at www.rdr.link/HY027

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SPOTLIGHT

RISE & SHINE Wake up to dream hair with new JOICO Defy Damage Sleepover Overnight Nourishing Treatment.

What’s in the bottle?

Protective Lipid – The exact kind found in healthy hair, acts as the first line of defense to help protect hair against damage.

Moringa Seed Oil – Helps provide shine and softness with antioxidants, Vitamins A and E, Zinc, and Silica – ingredients that are fundamental to creating healthy, strong, damage-resistant hair.

JOICO Defy Damage Sleepover is a brand new bedtime treatment that works to nourish hair while you sleep. The brilliant formula fortifies bonds overnight to deliver softer, shinier, visibly healthier hair by the time your alarm goes off.

A unique, comforting fragrance with notes of vanilla and lavender encourages relaxation, and with just a few pumps before bed, come morning you’re ready to rise and shine.

This no-rinse treatment gives you performance and convenience wrapped up in one relaxing package.

Protecting your hair against pollution**, strengthening and nourishing hair and more, all done as you catch your z’s.

Getting your “beauty sleep” has taken on a whole new meaning.

Arginine – A naturally occurring amino acid crucial to hair’s strength.

Products that include Arginine help protect hair and rebuild it from the inside out.

SmartRelease™ Technology – A one-of-a-kind liposome delivery system, packs a punch – continuously releasing Rosehip Oil, Arginine, and Keratin to help repair, strengthen, and protect hair from the damaging effects of daily styling.

Why your clients will love it! ● ● ● ● ●

Nourishes hair and strengthens bonds overnight* Reduces the appearance of split ends Instantly softens and smooths hair Boosts shine Protects against pollution**

*Against combing breakage on damaged hair vs. a non-conditioning shampoo **Laboratory tested using pollution particles

For more information please www.rdr.link/HY028

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PODCAST LIST Law of Attraction Changed My Life – recommended by Melissa Timperley The podcast I am loving at the moment is Law of Attraction Changed My Life by Francesca Amber. She is a down to earth single mother of three who gives a no BS approach to manifesting your desires. Whether that is a work goal or a personal goal, she has really kept me going with her podcasts.

Salonology – recommended by Victoria Cartwright of Lox of Love I found Salonology, a business mentoring and coaching company for the hair and beauty industry, at the very start of Lockdown 1. Their podcast is relatively new but I’m hooked! What I like about it is how they make, what could be, a boring topic for most hairdressers, into something light-hearted, fun and engaging. I find I am learning without even realising it. As hairdressers we continually refresh our practical skills, but for most salon owners, running the business is a process we learn along the way rather than have specific ongoing training for.

These guys bridge that gap, and I can listen while I’m in the car, folding the washing, or doing a stocktake!

How To Cut It – also recommended by Victoria Cartwright of Lox of Love The How To Cut It podcast has been incredibly inspiring over the past year.

Dom Lehane who hosts it has managed to interview some truly iconic hair professionals, such as Errol Douglas, Anthony Mascolo, and Andrew Barton to name a few. We often read interviews of these industry icons, but actually hearing them speak on a very raw, unedited form, without having to spend hundreds of pounds visiting Salon International or similar to see them, is invaluable and reminds me why I love our industry, despite the rollercoaster we are on right now.

Private Parts – recommended by George Smith of TONI&GUY I like Jamie Laing’s podcast, Private Parts. I used to watch MIC when they were kids but now that he’s building a brand Candy Kittens it’s very interesting to listen to how he’s growing this through different advertising platforms – one being via podcasts.

Also along side that a very similar story of Spencer Matthews who has transformed to the point he’s growing an alcohol free drinks line. It’s funny to listen to as well as interesting to hear what and how they have got to the point they are now from being at opposite ends of the spectrum.

Just like our recent Book List in our January issue, we’ve been asking our hairdressing friends what they’re listening to right now. Podcasts may not be for everyone, but if you find yourself with some time on your hands, why not broaden your horizons with one of these motivational, insightful or entertaining podcasts. But don’t take our word for it…here are the recommendations from hairdressers just like you.

The Infinite Monkey Cage – recommended by Joe Hemmings of Bloggs This is a great podcast to listen to as it covers some really interesting subjects and let’s us understand why we do things. It really lets you understand how powerful our minds really can be and how we can continue to learn as we go through life.

The High Performance Podcast – also recommended by Joe Hemmings of Bloggs This one is great as they interview different successful people from CEOs to athletes, looking at what has made them succeed in their careers. The similarities of their stories is how they perform the simple tasks at high level consistently over a sustained period of time and how they make themselves accountable for their decisions.

Snatched Edges – recommended by LWPR Snatched Edges is a podcast all about hair health. Expect to hear tips on how to solve common hair and scalp issues, how to tackle hair loss and the best ways to style your hair. Whether you are loc’d or loose, natural or relaxed you are sure to hear something to keep your hair flourishing.

Oprah’s Super Soul Sundays – recommended by Sam Burnett My favourite podcast is Oprah’s Super Soul Sunday Conversations – I would recommend it as she has incredible guests each week ranging from Maya Angelou to Beyoncé who talk about their lives and careers and cover a wide range of topics. They are certainly feel good and help to put me in a positive mind set.

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S.O.S.

THE ED:IT

Yep, pretty serious stuff I lead with this month. With the shocking news that 41% (that’s around 20,000) of UK salons may not survive this lockdown, it’s time for us all to step up!

While the hospitality industry had its VAT cut from 20% to 5% last July in order to help out pubs and restaurants, the hairdressing industry has received no such government support. Here is how we can all help!

SAVE OUR SALONS provides salon owners with everything they need to find and write to their MP and lobby for this important tax cut.

At SAVE OUR SALONS you’ll find a directory of MPs with their full contact details – choose the MPs in the areas where you have salons. Download the

Errol Douglas MBE needs no introduction! Pro Hair are delighted to have this ‘man about town’ (although now applying all covid restrictions), on our team for 2021. He brings us just what we need, a little ‘eye on the prize’, a smattering of ‘ones to watch’ and some very meaningful motivational tools that we can adopt to make this year happen for each and every one of us. Follow him on Instagram: erroldouglashair

template letter that sets out the argument for the VAT cut and customise it with your salon details. Then email and post the letter to your MP and share your letter on your social channels.

Go to www.saveoursalons.co.uk and follow the six simple steps to campaign for what is fair and right for UK hairdressing.

Find them at saveoursalons.co.uk Follow them at @saveoursalonsuk #saveoursalons #ChoptheVAT

S, WE HAVE A COLLECTIVE SINGLE MISSION TO SAVE OUR SALON OUR BUSINESSES AND THE PEOPLE WHO WORK IN THEM

ON MY BOOK SHELF I love to read and what lockdown has presented is that little bit of time (yes, am still working) when I used to be commuting here there and everywhere to catch up on a good read. Nothing stimulates me more than a self-help app, podcast but sometimes there is nothing better than to your feet up and plough into a book, turning the pages without distraction. Going to mention two books which I’ve read, and re-read, each time I’m obviously searching for something different – and each time – I find the solution! The first book is by Vanessa Tucker its called THE ART OF YOU – I just love it. She focuses on the fact that you are literally a masterpiece – an unfolding work of art, beautiful in the moment and growing every day. Vanessa is both therapeutic and spiritual and is the book is packed full with inspiring stories, practical exercises towards the art of empowerment. A must read if you are ready to answer your creative calling!

The second book is THE SALON JEDI by Caroline Sanderson who is owner and director of Ego Hair Design in the Scottish Highlands knows a thing or two about running a business and she has been helping salon owners all over the world do just that for over a decade. Every salon owner should own a copy!

ARE YOU IN THE CLUB? Social media platform Clubhouse has certainly lit a lot of fires. All audio as opposed to visual – it is fuelled by an arena of people from the creative sector – it is completely and entirely ‘of the moment’. Live podcast-style conversations, panel discussions, networking opportunities. The only problem is, I find myself still listening at 4am…. By invitation only.

HAIRDOTCOM The HAIRDOTCOM Art Team is a creative collective, unrestricted by brand association and united in a mission to collaborate, not compete. Built around two core values of wellbeing and collaboration, the team was conceived by hairdressers Ashleigh Hodges and Craig Chapman with the goal of changing the face of existing creative teams within the industry.

The HAIRDOTCOM Art Team consists of 17 talented individuals working across hair, beauty, styling, photography and wellbeing and am delighted to say I’m their team ambassador. Together this team bring a diverse and eclectic range of technical skills and knowledge, allowing them to deliver the highest standards of work and break down barriers for both clients and teams alike.

The diversity of the HAIRDOTCOM Art Team’s skillset allows them to take on a wide range of session work, including TV, celebrity clients, editorial and advertising. It also means their new education program is truly reflective of the modern creative industry, and all the jobs that it encompasses.

HAIRDOTCOM have launched a series of seminars that bring together the vast skillset of the team’s members. Their upcoming courses will cover areas including: fashion and session styling, colour, texture, men’s hair, bridal hair, wigs, social media and wellbeing. Education is brand neutral, and thanks to the large and experienced team of individuals behind the scenes, can be bespoke to learners’ specific needs and levels.

To find out more about The HAIRDOTCOM Art Team check them out on their website www.hdcartteam.com or @hairdotcomartteam

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