001_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 14:39 Page 1
JANUARY 2021
Professional JANUARY 2021
DPS NEW_Layout 1 08/12/2020 10:02 Page 1
DPS NEW_Layout 1 08/12/2020 10:03 Page 2
PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 18/03/2020 11:47 Page 1
005_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 15:47 Page 5
J A NUA RY 2 0 2 1
ISSUE 01
Optimism and Oz
FOLLOW ME: @nicolaprohair FOLLOW PRO HAIR MAG: @ProHairMag @ProHairMag
The fear and uncertainty of 2020 has been replaced with an optimism that we’ve all missed. There are no words to sum up what we all went through last year, both professionally and personally but there are words that will always be associated with 2020 like PPE, zoom, home schooling, stockpiling, lockdown, even banana bread! The end of the year was met with cautious expectation for a better year this year: We have the vaccine and with it a renewed optimism that was missing for the best part of last year. So as we live in hope that ‘things can only get better’ (thanks D:Ream), we are bringing you a set of business articles this issue to set your positive salon plan in motion for 2021 and help us all get back on track. There are some golden nuggets of advice on these pages and takeaways that you can use immediately in salon. Hairdressers across the world have all been in the same pandemic predicament and as we move into 2021 we thought we’d celebrate the talents of our hairdressing friends down under. Tuesday 26th January is Australia Day 2021 and in acknowledgment we have put together an Australian Special so you can see what your Aussie counterparts have been up to. Wishing you a safe and successful start to 2021 and hopefully see you soon (in person!)
JANUARY 2021
COVER: Andrew Smith using milk_shake PHOTOGRAPHY: Richard Miles
Editor Nicola Shannon nshannon@hamerville.co.uk Assistant Editor Megan Danskine
REGULARS
mdanskine@hamerville.co.uk
6
Digital Manager
NEWS Industry goings on
Rebecca Mcgeoch rmcgeoch@hamerville.co.uk Designer Donna Booth Group Production Manager Carol Padgett Production Assistant Claire Swendell Publisher Bryan Shannon Group Sales Manager Oliver Shannon oshannon@hamerville.co.uk
PEOPLE 9
FASHION
69 What’s New
32 ON TREND COLLECTIONS
70 COLOUR CLOSE-UP With Wella Professionals
BUSINESS
71 COLOUR CLOSE-UP With American Crew
52 GAVIN MILLS
HOOKER & YOUNG With Tracey Divine
58 PHIL JACKSON 60 CAROLINE SANDERSON
14 LOVE IS IN THE HAIR With Akin Konizi
62 THOMAS HILLS
16 BOOK LIST Self-help books
65 HELLEN WARD
28 SPOTLIGHT ON With Schwarzkopf Professional #BLONDME
63 DEBBIE DIGBY
74 TALENT SPOTTING With Pauline McCabe 76 COLOUR CLOSE-UP With Leyton House
66 ANNE VECK
78 AWARDS The AHAs
PRODUCTS
81 PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT On Eleven Australia
67 PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT On Bulbs&Roots 68 PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT On Aveda
Professional Hairdresser, Hamerville Media Group Ltd, Regal House, Regal Way, Watford, Herts, WD24 4YF. Phone: 01923 237799 Fax: 01923 246901
AUSSIE SPECIAL
82 PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT On Bhave
WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK Subscriptions to Professional Hairdresser are avaliable at the following rates: UK: 1 year - £30 post paid Europe and Overseas: 1 year - £50 post paid AIRMAIL: 1 year - £65 post paid. To be removed from this magazine’s circulation please call 01923 237799 or email circulation@hamerville.couk. ©2021 Professional Hairdresser accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no responsibilty can be acceoted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in any form, without prior written permission from the publishers.
16,344
July 19 - June 20
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 5
006_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 15:48 Page 6
@ProHairMag
@ProHairMag
WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK
Matt Horder has been appointed Revlon Professional Commercial Director for UK & IE.
THE LATEST FROM THE INDUSTRY
#BHA20
HERE’S EVERYONE WHO TOOK HOME A SILVER LADY THIS YEAR….
The British Hairdressing Award winners are crowned via a virtual ceremony The British Hairdressing Awards celebrate the people producing the very best hairdressing work across England, Northern Ireland, Scotland and Wales and for the first time in its 36 year history, the ‘Oscars’ of the hair world could not be held in person and instead went live and virtual on Monday 30th November – giving an opportunity to celebrate the success and talent within the industry, and share the excitement of the event to an wider audience. Finalists were each given ‘tickets’ for their very own virtual room where they could watch and celebrate with their teams, friends and family while the industry could also show their support by tuning in to a live stream of the event which was hosted by television personality Rylan Clark-Neal on Facebook. Winning the ultimate accolade of the night was Sally Brooks, co-owner of Brooks & Brooks Hair in London, who was announced British Hairdresser of the Year 2020. Her winning collection, ‘2020 WTF’ was styled on hairdresser doll heads and was Sally’s way of proving that the hairdressers can find a new way of working, creating something that is creative and unique, no matter what comes their way. Delighted with the win, Sally said, “I’m so shocked. We’ve just proved as an industry how resilient we are. I don’t think this award should have my name on it, it should have hairdressers everywhere on it – Hairdressers United!”
al ly C onrgratulations t o S and al l of t he #BHA20 winners.
SPECIALIST CATEGORY WINNERS 2020: British Hairdresser of the Year: Sally Brooks, Brooks & Brooks Afro Hairdresser of the Year: Rick Roberts, Rick Roberts Salon Artistic Team of the Year: MODE Artistic Team, MODE Hair Avant Garde Hairdresser of the Year: Sylvestre Finold, Metropolis Hairdressing Men’s Hairdresser of the Year: Andrea Giles & Terri Kay, Mark Leeson Newcomer of the Year: Kate Drury, MODE Hair Schwarzkopf Professional British Colour Technician of the Year: Clayde Baumann, D&J Ambrose Trend Image of the Year: Sharon Malcolm, Sharon Malcolm Hairdressing REGIONAL WINNERS 2020 Eastern Hairdresser of the Year: Lisa Graham & Joseph I’Anson, Mark Leeson London Hairdresser of the Year: Daniele De Angelis, TONI&GUY Shoreditch Midlands Hairdresser of the Year: Nick Malenko, Royston Blythe North Eastern Hairdresser of the Year: Jonathan Turner, Hooker & Young North Western Hairdresser of the Year: Marcello Moccia & Karen Perry, Room 97 Creative Northern Ireland Hairdresser of the Year: Julie Cherry, Shane Bennett Salon Scottish Hairdresser of the Year: Dylan Brittain, Rainbow Room International Southern Hairdresser of the Year: Thomas Hills, TH1 Hair Wales & South West Hairdresser of the Year: Craig Chapman, Craig Chapman Salon International Collection of the Year: Silas Tsang, Blushes Hall of Fame 2020 – Winning the same category three times: Mark Leeson, Mark Leeson Martin Crean, MODE Hair
SHOP ONLINE WITH SCHWARZKOPF SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL LAUNCHES AN ESHOP FOR QUICK AND EASY ORDERING AND SAFE CONTACTLESS DELIVERY. As salons are mostly open again now in line with Government guidelines, Schwarzkopf Professional’s main priority remains ensuring the health and safety of their salon partners and employees. To support this, the brand is proud to launch their new EShop. As well as allowing orders to be placed 24/7, pre- and post- salon trading hours, it also reduces face-to-face contact for safe, seamless delivery. All online orders will continue to be
6 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER
delivered within sealed boxes, allowing Schwarzkopf Professional to serve more customers, with less contact points, to reduce the number of non-clients within a salon. The EShop also makes ordering easier; it’s simple to use, accessible any time and on any device and packed full of extras like special promotions, business advice and management tools to make stock ordering easy, even across sites. This wealth of benefits means salons can cut down on admin and stocktaking and focus on doing what they love: hairdressing!
TO CELEBRATE THE LAUNCH OF THE ESHOP, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL IS PROVIDING A £200 BC BONACURE SAMPLE SIZE TRIAL BOX, FULL OF SAMPLES THAT ARE PERFECT FOR GIFTING AND BUILDING LOYALTY. TO QUALIFY FOR THE OFFER, SIMPLY PLACE AN ORDER OF £200 OR MORE AND USE THE CODE WELCOME*. *offer available while stocks last.
006_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 15:48 Page 7
An Evening with The FELLOWSHIP THE FELLOWSHIP FOR BRITISH HAIRDRESSING CLOSES THE YEAR WITH A SEASONAL AND SAFE LIVE-STREAMED EVENT. The Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s annual Luncheon and Awards hails the start of the Christmas season for many in our industry, and while this year’s online alternative – An Evening with the Fellowship – may have looked a little different, it was still a suitably festive, fun-packed and celebratory occasion. Hosted by Fellowship President Ken Picton and Chanceller Ashleigh Hodges, the event saw a recreation of #MrPresident’s famous bar, which has been the setting for Drinks with the President throughout lockdown, the Fellowship Live Lounge for outdoor interviews, a live band to provide music throughout the broadcast and space for some very special socially-distanced guests to celebrate. Guests included past Presidents Errol Douglas, Bruno Marc and Karine Jackson, as well as Fellowship Project Leaders – including the newly-announced leader for Project: X, Sam Burnett of Hare and Bone. The evening also included highlights from this year’s incredible digital broadcast schedule, including #THEKNOWLEDGE, Drinks with the President and the recent Life Stories shows, with memorable and moving moments from interviews with Trevor Sorbie, Errol Douglas and Sally Brooks hosted by Andrew Barton and Maria Weijers. Awards were handed out across all categories, including three new to 2020: the Lockdown Look, Colour Image and Men’s
The 2020 Award winners are: Fellow with Honours Cos Sakkas Karoliina Saunders Clive Silver Anne Veck
Image. Award winners joined the celebrations virtually to share the stories behind their images, with some of the special studio guest winners also joining Ashleigh on stage in the Live Lounge to celebrate their trophies. Awards were also handed out in the Salon category, recognising those individuals and businesses who have continued to thrive even in a challenging year. A new award for 2020 was also unveiled; the President’s Award.
Fellow with Distinction Jo Martin Step Up and Shine Scholarship Anita Patkos, Farah Naz Hairdressing Sassoon Scholarship Kim Nicole Jones Member of the Year Kay Binnersley Snapshot Image of the Year Nester Sanchez, HOB Academy Lockdown Look Sylvestre Finold, Metropolis Men’s Image of the Year Robert Masciave, Metropolis Colour Image of the Year Francesco Fontana, TONI&GUY Fellowship Image of the Year Errol Douglas Individual Salon of the Year Melissa Salons Group Salon of the Year TONI&GUY President’s Award National Hair and Beauty Federation (NHBF) Fellowship Hairdresser of the Year Hooke & Young
Finally, it was time to celebrate the biggest award of the night: Fellowship Hairdresser of the Year, which was awarded to Hooker & Young. “This is awarded to a Fellowship member that has contributed to the industry in an exceptional way,” explained Ashleigh. “And this year’s recipients are a creative powerhouse with a salon empire, who are always there to support the Fellowship wherever possible.” A visibly emotional Gary and Michael were in the studio to accept their award, with Michael commenting: We love the Fellowship, it’s part of who we are. This award is completely unexpected and we are both totally humbled by it. It’s the best end to what has been a crap year.” Gary added: “We just love what we do and we love the industry. The way everyone has pulled together this year and the support given has been amazing, and we’ve hopefully helped people too. We’re all going to come through this and be even better people next year.”
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 7
PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 08/12/2020 09:59 Page 1
009_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 15:49 Page 9
PEOPLE
SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL INTERNATIONAL AMBASSADORS
HOOKER AND YOUNG
CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HV001
Michael: Let’s start at the beginning, was it always hairdressing?
Tracey Devine Smith
Tracey: It was always hairdressing, my mum said when I was four all I did was brush hair and pretend I was in a salon.
Multi-award-winning hairdresser and Global Ambassador for ASP, Tracey Devine Smith has achieved so much throughout her career. Finally spending more time in the UK, we jumped at the chance to sit down with Tracey to talk travel, hair and family.
Michael: Were there any hairdressers in the family?
Michael: What was the first salon you ever worked in?
Tracey: No, I was the first and there was never anything else I was ever going to do.
Tracey: I come from a tiny little town in Scotland called Elgin, it’s on the north east tip between Aberdeen and Inverness. At the time there was a really amazing salon called Clancy’s and it was where everybody wanted to work, so if you wanted a job in hairdressing that’s where you went. So, I remember when I left school my mum said “right go get a job and don’t come back till you’ve got one!” So that’s exactly what I did. I went into all the salons but obviously Clancy’s was where I wanted to work. When I called in luckily the girl on the desk said to me “Are you Tracey McGilvery?” I went “yeah”and she said “I really fancy your cousin Brian” and I was like “alright, well if you put in a good word for me, I’ll put in a good word for you with Brian” and she did and I got the job!
Gary: How old were you when you started in the industry? Tracey: It was back in 1986, I was 15 and started on a YTS which back then was £22.50 a week. Michael: I started in 1990 so similar time and I was also on £22.50 per week, can’t imagine that now! Gary: You don’t even want to know when I started! Michael: Wasn’t that around the time of dinosaurs? Hahahaha.
Michael: So, cousin Brian got you the job?
Gary: Not quite, it was 1979.
Tracey: Basically yes! Hahahaha.
Gary: You’ve started hairdressing, working in Clancy’s, at what stage did you decide to spread your wings and reach for bigger things? Tracey: I was actually there for about three years – finished my apprenticeship and was there till I fell pregnant with Poppy. Then I took a year out and did an HND at college in business management, I thought I’d do this while I was pregnant. I thought right where am I going with my career? At this point I was on my own with Poppy and I wasn’t really sure what direction I wanted to go in, I just knew that I wanted to do a lot more within the industry. I’d had the privilege of being at Salon International just before she was born, and it really opened my eyes to everything out there. I knew I needed to move away to a big city to push my career forward as I had aspirations to be one of these people on stage so I packed up everything daughter included, Mum and Dad crying – thinking I was crazy totally crazy, jumped in my old Fiesta with loads of black bin bags and off I went to Aberdeen which to me was the big city.
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 9
009_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 15:49 Page 10
Tracey: Weirdly my husband got offered a job in Madrid and said, “Shall we?” I was like, “well why not – I don’t have the salons anymore, my role with ASP is global so I can pretty much be based anywhere.” As long as I was able to get back to London, which is easy from Madrid, I said “let’s do it!” So, we went to Madrid, I carried on doing everything for work and we were there for three years. He then got offered a job in Cyprus so off we went, and we did another three years there. Michael: You’ve travelled around a fair bit!
Gary: That must have felt quite nerve racking especially with the responsibility of your young daughter too. Tracey: To be honest I’ve always been a risk taker and back then never used to over think situations, that definitely changes with age! I over think everything now.
this in my life – I couldn’t believe I was in a room with guys like you two and all these amazing people, I was gobsmacked and thought “right – this is where I need to be”. It was at this event that I met Julie Bellinger-Gibb who took me under her wing and that’s really when I started to enter the BHA’s. Gary: What was the first year you entered?
Michael: Where did you go when you got to Aberdeen? Tracey: I’d done loads of research and the place to be was Ishoka with Mr Philip Bell, ‘the legend’, so I went to see them, had an interview and they took me on straight away. I worked with there for two years and I’m going to be honest it was an amazing two years, I learnt so much from them and went straight on to open my own business in Aberdeen with all that knowledge that I’d gained. Michael: Was that always the bigger picture? Did you have it in your sights to ultimately open your own business? Tracey: No, not at all – the salon came along by chance. I always knew I wanted to get ahead in my career and be remembered for my work but was never quite sure how I was gonna do that. I went to the new salon as the manager and it ended up becoming my first lease and that’s where Angels was born, 21 years of Angels in Aberdeen – four salons and a team of 67 by the end. Gary: It was during your time at Angels that you started entering the BHA’s? What was the driving force there? Tracey: I was invited to a big Fellowship event and I was amazed! I’d never seen anything like
Tracey: My first year entering was 2004 which was an absolute flop! 2005 I finalised for Scottish Hairdresser Of The Year then went on to win 2006, 2007 and 2008 and then of course Men’s Hairdresser Of The Year in 2012. Michael: You won three consecutive years, that’s impressive! So, riding on the crest of a wave and you decide to sell Angels, that must have been a tough decision! Why the change of direction? Tracey: It probably took me about two years to decide. But being honest with you, I started working quite heavily with Affinage Salon Professional around 2013 and because I was doing so much for them I felt like everything was being diluted. I wasn’t in the salon enough and I felt like the team were missing me and I wasn’t enjoying it as much as I had in the past so there was a decision to make – either stop the travelling and get back in that salon or follow my passion as Global Ambassador for ASP. It was a tough decision to make but selling the salons just felt like the right thing to do both for me and the team. I actually remember saying “I’ll never open another salon again” hahahaha… and here we are. Gary: You’ve moved around a lot from country to country, has that always been for work?
Tracey: I actually have gypsy blood, like from way, way back – but yeah that’s true so maybe that’s why I can’t stay in the same place for long hahahaha… Michael: Tell me about the work you’ve been doing in Abu Dhabi. Tracey: The opportunity came about while we were out in Spain – a friend of mine Jamilla Paul was already out there working in Abu Dhabi – it’s beautiful a salon in one of these big complex communities and Jamilla was working there and actually approached me to come out and do some education with team with the possibility of maybe doing some clients. Being completely honest with you my husband’s work took a bit of a downturn while we’re in Spain and while he was trying to get back on track I thought I would go out to Abu Dhabi as an opportunity to make some money, kind of like second job in to weather the storm. But if I’m honest, I totally loved it and three years later I’m still going back and forth. At first, I was going every month for a week at a time but as times gone on that’s kind of gone down less and less as the team know what they’re doing now and are great. Gary: When you were doing clients in Abu Dhabi, was there a lot of demand for you? Tracey: Out there you’re much bigger than you are here, everybody wants to see you because you’ve got the Scottish accent and you’ve won all these awards and they just don’t have all that out there so it’s intriguing for them and lucky for me that they loved my work too. Michael: So, tell us about the new salon! Thought you said you’d never open another one! Hahahaha… Tracey: So this is about my daughter Poppy now, I’m getting old you know! Hahahaha… 50 this year. But I’m doing three days a week in
009_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 15:49 Page 11
PEOPLE
the salon and I love it. After studying law, Poppy decided she wanted to do hairdressing and went to work at Zoology in London for a couple of years. She and her partner then moved to Derbyshire where she started renting a chair to build up a clientele and then fell pregnant which is when I came home. After she’d had the baby she was like “Mum, Mum we need a salon” and I said “Oh I’m not sure, I said never again!” Poppy had seen this amazing location so of course I went along to see it and three weeks later we were signing for a new salon. Gary: Did you start to feel the excitement again? Tracey: It was almost like something clicked but I’m doing things so differently this time, this is a completely new take on the salons I’ve had before. Gary: In the offering or the way that you’re approaching it? Tracey: Everything is completely different – I have no staff, I rent out three chairs and have one apprentice – so a totally different model. I don’t want the stress, I don’t want the hassle, but I want to stand behind the chair and do what I love, it feels like I’m home. The location just feels so right too, it’s very us – it was never about having a big flashy salon. Michael: How is it working with your daughter? Tracey: Amazing! I mean we have our differences because we all like different things. I’m learning a lot from her because she’s younger and she’s learning a lot from me because I’m older and we’re both really respectful of one another, so it works perfectly. Michael: What made you decide to do things differently this time? It seems very different to anything you’ve done before – is it based on how you think the industry is now? Tracey: It’s in a really gorgeous little town with an almost retro, antique vibe and has won best High Street of the Year for the last three years. It’s got loads of little boutique style shops that work really well within that area so we kind of wanted to do something that fitted. Although there’s a lot of salons there’s nothing totally homely with the kind of feel that we wanted to bring – just very warm, homely and welcoming where you can pop in for a cup of tea and piece of shortbread. The name came first ‘French & Ivy’ and everthing just fell into place from there.
A lot of the stuff we’ve put in the salon is reclaimed or reused and lots from retro/charity shops too – it’s just been a real labour of love and it hasn’t cost a fortune. I just signed the lease when lockdown happened and I was absolutely worried to death that we were even going to get the salon off the ground because the money I was banking on using to open the salon all of a sudden wasn’t coming in because I wasn’t working anymore – the international work stopped! It was a scary time. Gary: Tell me about it, 2020 has been about survival and just getting through the year unscathed. It’s great to that you got the salon open and how well its doing.
Michael: You sound like you’re in a really good place now, do you have any other boxes left to tick? Tracey: The box I want to tick is getting this salon to an amazing level – I feel like I’ve got 10 years maximum in this salon before I retire! Hopefully sooner if possible hahahaha… then I can just hand it over to Poppy, so she has this amazing business to take forward, that’s where it’s at for me. My other daughter is doing her degree in journalism and PR and I’m hoping that she might then start working with Poppy in the business, that’s my big dream but it depends what the girls want of course. Michael: Will you still continue to do photoshoots, or will you just concentrate on the salon now? Tracey: Definitely! Doing hair on shoots is where I feel completely in my element, working on hair behind the camera, I just feel like that’s my thing. Not everybody can make that progression and not everybody can transcend into doing ‘that kind of hair’ at such a high standard so if you can do both, I believe it’s a real skill. Gary: And the international travel? Are you going to get back into that once we can all travel again for work? Tracey: I’ve loved being at home and just being in the salon and I never thought I’d ever say that but I’ve not missed the travelling like I thought I would with the stress it puts on you and how much time it takes up. I’d never say never and who knows what the future holds but I don’t know how much of that I want to do now moving forward, definitely less of it. I love being at home around my family. Jacob’s only 11 and then there was the arrival of my grand-daughter Ivy, she’s just my new obsession! I’ve never felt love like it, as soon as I saw her, it hit me like a tidal wave. Michael: This is so nice to hear; you’ve landed in a really good place and you definitely deserve to take your foot of the gas a little. Tracey’s absolute love of hairdressing has led her to huge success both creatively and in business. Never one to stand still, she has taken many opportunities that have shaped her career and opened many doors. 2020 saw a new chapter of her life entering into a family business, but it’s our guess that 2021 will bring new exciting challenges for the very lovely Tracey Devine Smith. We Salute You!
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 11
DPS NEW_Layout 1 15/12/2020 12:43 Page 1
DPS NEW_Layout 1 15/12/2020 12:43 Page 2
014_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 15:50 Page 14
PEOPLE
HOB’s International Creative Director AKIN KONIZI on how to fall back in love with hairdressing.
is in the Hair! With the focus on getting back to work, trimming client’s hair and covering grown-out roots, there wasn’t much time for creativity in 2020. And having to cope with the new rules surrounding PPE, social distancing and local restrictions, it’s been a stressful time for many hairdressers and salon owners. But with a new year and as columns start to settle down and business gets back to a new type of normal, it’s the perfect opportunity to get think about why you came into hairdressing in the first place. Hairdressers are naturally very creative people and hairdressing is all about playing with hair and experimenting with shapes and colours,” says HOB Academy international creative director, Akin Konizi. “If we don’t have an opportunity to do this, many find it difficult to remain motivated and enthused. The harder aspects of the job take over and we forget why we fell in love with hairdressing in the first place. There’s a reason hairdressers are some of the happiest people around – but the current climate has meant many people have lost their mojo. Being creative should be a priority even in busy and stressful times. Take some time to play with texture, shapes and colour. It’s a great release, gives us a focus and who knows what masterpiece we will create!”
14 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER
So if you’re feeling flat, here are six simple tips from Akin to remember why you fell in love with hairdressing. 1 Don’t forget why you came into
you’re competent in long hair, try tuning into a short hair course; if your hair dressing skills need an update, join a webinar that will boost your dressing skills.
hairdressing in the first place – making people look and feel beautiful, a chance to transform a style, to work with a fabric every day.
2 Don’t get bogged down by trimming split ends – remember every head of hair is different and every client will want something personal to them. Whether it’s a bob or mermaid waves, every client should be unique and is an opportunity for you to put your stamp on the style. 3 Your salon team are your work family – remember to spend some time together to laugh and talk. Have a drink or pizza after work, celebrate a birthday or anniversary. It might be hard at the moment, but it’s the people you surround yourself with that will get you through it.
4
There’s a myriad of online education so choose wisely and be inspired. If
5 Remember the look on your client’s
face when you transform their hair – there is no better feeling than making someone feel confident and beautiful. There are not many careers that can make people feel better about themselves – so be proud that you do this every day.
6
Don’t be scared to pick up the phone – contact a mentor, or someone you admire. Drop them a message, start a conversation and give yourself a little boost. Kind words mean a lot so tell them why you admire them and ask them for advice, talk to them about their imagery or a memory you share. Being kind and sharing some words with someone you admire will give you a real pick me up.
CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HV002
PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 08/12/2020 09:59 Page 1
016_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 15:56 Page 16
Your invisible business partner, your secret weapon or simply pages of positivity – SELF HELP BOOKS can be a little bit ‘marmite’! Love’em or loath ‘em – January may be a good time to delve in and give these recommendations a go. You never know you might find a page turner that turns your business around!
Dan Mewies, founder of Mewies & Co and Authentic Beauty Concept Ambassador I appreciate the Special Forces and the hairdressing industry are worlds apart but I wanted to find a book that wasn’t just about business but also one that could help me deal with daily fears and negative energy. Ant Middleton’s THE FEAR BUBBLE talks about harnessing the power of fear and understanding the positive force that it can become, which I’ve taken on board for my business.
Danilo Giangreco, Danilo Hair Boutique – Chelsea Two of my all time self help favourite books are THE FEAR BUBBLE by Ant Middleton. In this book he talks about how to use fear as positive energy to push ourselves to do the things that we want to do, but often times we don’t, because we are scared of getting out of our comfort zone.
FEEL THE FEAR AND DO IT ANYWAY by Susan Jeffers is a little more ‘technical’, it talks about what we are afraid of and why. It also talks about all the tools we can use to turn things around and use fear in our favour.
A J Maud, @ Maud Salon, Brighton I am generally not much of a self help book type of person that said, my wife and I got into THE 5AM CLUB by Robin Sharma. Not necessarily for self help aspects but more the structure around starting your day at 5am (the golden hour) and how it helps to optimise our mornings and days. The main focus behind it is minimising distractions, technology and starting your day peacefully and productively. I started it mostly to take back my mornings and put myself, and my mindset for each day first before the distractions of the day could pull me in other directions. For me the biggest takeaway from the book was starting your day distraction free and with purpose and that helped make all the difference to my days.
Darrel Starkey, Taylors Hair Studio Honestly, the book which has completely changed my outlook and been my secret partner in crime is Chris Anderson’s TEDTALKS – absolutely fantastic. Not only is this applicable to business, it is also applicable to each individual’s everyday life, allowing you to change your outlook and take things away that help you personally.
James Alfie Parr, Celebrity Session Stylist and Manager of Brotherhood, Leamington Spa I LOVE GOOD VIBES GOOD LIFE by Vex King. This helped me through the first lockdown in a massive way, I was already a huge believer in the laws of attraction, but this really helped me look at the energies and vibrations we put out and what we receive back. Everything from the programmes we watch, the words we speak and the food we consume can affect how we deal with things day to day and at the moment we need all the positivity we can get!
Kerry Mather, owner of KJM Salons, Fleet My go-to book is always FISH! I first heard about it at a Schwarzkopf PH Club event about 10 years ago and have been through three copies so far because I lend them out and don’t get them back! The lessons about team building, making someone’s day, making the work place fun and fulfilling in this book are invaluable to me. I feel everyone, in all types of businesses, would benefit from this quick read.
016_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 15:57 Page 17
BOOKS
Michael Smith @ Tristan Eves PEOPLE DON’T BUY WHAT YOU SELL THEY BUY WHAT YOU STAND FOR by Martin Butler. I worked alongside Martin Butler and he taught me pretty much all I know about business and especially retail and customer service.
WHATEVER YOU THINK THINK THE OPPOSITE by Paul Arden I had the pleasure to meet Paul Arden – he used to be the Creative Director of Saatchi & Saatchi before opening up his own photographic gallery in my home town Petworth, West Sussex. He has a great creative mind and the book is so good it does make you think differently.
Sheree Thompson, Siren Bridal Hair Art My go-to book is DOTCOM SECRETS by Russell Brunson – it is fantastic. Russel is very inspirational and puts everything into context which is applicable to any business which is looking to excel online. The information is so invaluable to me that I’ve completely redirected my business. Linda Stewart, Co-Owner of Rainbow Room International We are always reading the latest books but the principals of Dale Carnegie’s HOW TO WIN FRIENDS AND INFLUENCE PEOPLE is a mantra for dealing with clients and team. Also Anthony Robins, AWAKEN THE GIANT WITHIN for when I need a bit of self-motivation. These are just two of the books that I use as references from time to time.
Errol Douglas MBE For a motivational page turner totally applicable to the business you are in – you can’t beat a better book than THE SALON JEDI by Caroline Sanderson. I’d highly recommend it!
Let Lew, Let Lew Hair Design AWAKEN THE GIANT WITHIN by Anthony Robbins is a fantastic read and one I highly recommend. Not only does it help balance personal and business life, it helps you mentally balance and take full control of what you want to achieve in life and for those around you. This has taught me that what we do once in a while is not what shapes our lives – it’s what we do consistently that does.
Rianna Henry @theblowdryartist I’m a lover of self-help and business books and my most used book is actually SELF MADE: THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO BUSINESS STARTUP SUCCESS by Bianca-Miller Cole and Byron Cole. I can’t express how this book has transformed my business! I bought the book back in 2017 when I was already a year into my business and it has fundamentally been my secret weapon to growing my success and expanding. I read it initially cover to cover and now use it on a chapter base when I want to improve a particular part of my business. The book covers an intense about of knowledge from forecasts to marketing strategies to social media to personal and company branding; the list goes on.
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 17
016_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 15:57 Page 18
BOOKS
Brian ‘Leo’ McCallum, Owner of ROAR Hair and Beauty Without a doubt as a young stylist my career was built from reading Alan Austin Smith’s THE FANTASTIC HAIRDRESSER. So much so that I won a company award previously based on the fundamentals of the book.
Barrie Stephen, Director at Barrie Stephen Hair THE ONE MINUTE MANAGER MEETS THE MONKEY by Ken Blanchard made me look at things differently. It encouraged me to face everything and avoid nothing! Not excusing anything which needs addressing, be that behaviour or performance for example. Leadership is a lonely place but this book helped me to keep my integrity when dealing with difficult conversations and ending with positivity.
However as of recently one of the best things I’ve read is THE ART OF BEING BRILLIANT by Andy Whittaker and Andy Cope. It has changed my mindset so much that I can genuinely turn any negative into a positive. I am currently writing this after being told I have to close my salons again for two weeks but there is a positive to be taken from it! Read this book and I promise it will change your mindset.
Noel Halligan from NOCO Hair, Bristol Some of my favourites include THE E-MYTH REVISITED by Michael E Gerber. It will explain exactly how you go in to your position. Also, TRACTION by Gino Wickman, this is part of a series of books and has some absolutely priceless information. Finally, MAN’S SEARCH FOR MEANING by Vicktor E Frankl – when a person has a big enough why, they will endure any amount of how.
Another favourite of mine is a book by Eddie Hearn called RELENTLESS 12 ROUNDS OF SUCCESS. This amazing book really digs into the work ethic of what it takes to be a true success in life, business and whatever else you choose. The thing that resonated the most with me was always be hardest worker in the room, if you work harder than everyone else chances are, you’ll always do better than your competition. The takeaway quote which I feel can really sum up hairdressing - “If there’s no passion, there’s no point”.
18 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER
Brian MacMillan, Salon Director, F&M Hairdressing THE TIPPING POINT by Malcolm Gladwell is without a doubt my must read book. I bought it 15 years ago and it has been my go-to read ever since. It explains what makes big brands work and how tiny tweeks to your business model can make a huge difference overnight. I am actually about to re-read this again before we start the New Year, ready for 2021.
Bruno Marc, JOICO Ambassador for the UK, Europe and Ireland One of my favourite books which has helped our business massively is DON’T SELL by Emil McMahon – if you haven’t read this yet please do so as soon as you can, it’s fantastic. It looks at modern day salon life and how internet shopping has changed the way we purchase products, how social media needs to develop to become a more successful marketing tool for salons and how communication needs to evolve continuously. It’s so relevant to our salon and business plan that it has provided us with exceptional advice and helped is make a profitable salon business.
Another book that I read recently and really connected with was SMART RETAIL by Richard Hammond. It’s very inspirational and explains the thought process behind ideas and strategies and then makes you really think how these can be applied to your business
PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 08/12/2020 09:58 Page 1
020_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:21 Page 20
MEET THE NINE BLONDES DEFYING STEREOTYPES AND EMBRACING THEIR HAIR. Schwarzkopf Professional is dedicated to creating premium blonde results and is introducing an exciting #BLONDESOFTHEWORLD campaign together with a revamped hair care assortment. With nine blondes from around the world each with their own blonding story, the campaign celebrates the diverse world of blonde hair.
Being blonde can now mean whatever you and your clients want, so read on to meet the nine blondes at the heart of the campaign, and discover your perfect blonde. Share your own versions of looks with the #BLONDESOFTHEWORLD hash tag for a chance to feature on the brand’s social platforms as well as being entered into a competition.
020_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:22 Page 21
ADVERTORIAL
ENHANCE A DUSTED BLONDE WITH THE ALL BLONDES RICH MASK.
DUSTED BLONDE DROP THE FEAR AND KEEP THE BOUNCE. Danielle, from New York was looking for a customised, sophisticated blonde tone enhancement as a refreshment of her blonde look.
“Ever since I was allowed to dye my hair, I’ve had some kind of blonde going on! Balayage, dip-dye, wigs, weaves, everything. Naturally, my hair is a sort of medium to dark brown. I love being blonde – it makes me feel like I stand-out and especially with the cut I have, I turn more heads. Hair is definitely an accessory and it’s making me more adventurous with my styling, too. It’s an outdated idea that you need fair skin to rock a cool blonde tone – this works beautifully for me. I’ve always felt like the blonde me is the true me.”
EXPERT TIP:
Don’t have the time to do a full colour and need a quick solution to revitalise the mid lengths and ends? Use an Express Refreshing Servi ce which will, in five minutes , deeply remove the build up of ions and residues from hard water minerals for brigh ter results.
BLENDED BLONDE DON’T LET AGE DEFINE YOUR BLONDE. Barb, from Los Angeles was looking for a colour that can lift her natural hair and blend in the white hair in one single step.
“I’ve always felt better with blonde hair. Being blonde just suits me – I think it goes with my face and with my personality. My hair is such a big part of how I express myself. I’m not giving up on any part of myself even though I’m 57; being blonde is part of that for me. I’m still young and have a lot of living to do! Blonde to me is confidence, strength and vitality – it makes me feel ready to take on life.”
ENHANCE A BLENDED BLONDE WITH THE ALL BLONDES DETOX MASK.
020_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:22 Page 22
MAINTAIN A DIPPED BLONDE WITH THE BLONDE WONDERS RESTORING BALM.
DIPPED BLONDE RETHINK BLONDE, GO BRONDE. Simren, from London, wanted a warmer blonde that wouldn’t need too much maintainance due to her busy lifestyle.
“I really feel like this colour suits me, especially my eyes, and it softens my face a little. I like how it’s changed my look and made me feel a little mysterious and unique. Plus, I don’t really feel like I need to wear much makeup now, as my hair is the focal point. It’s definitely given me a new-found confidence and aligns with my style and my personality. I feel more like myself with this hair! I stand out more and that aligns with who I am, because I am confident and being blonde shows that side of my personality. I like how I cross between brunette and blonde and fall somewhere in the middle of the spectrum.”
020_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:22 Page 23
ADVERTORIAL
BLUSHED BLONDE MAXIMUM LIFT, ZERO DOUBTS. Sanna, from Shanghai, wanted a complete colour change and wanted to explore something new.
“Growing up Chinese in California meant I’d been aware of certain cultural expectations and assumptions from a young age, and I know that different values and tropes get assigned to different hair colours, so now I have something new to explore as a blonde. In the past I went fully blonde, but I’d grown that all out, so I was excited to do this with virgin hair. I’m actually really pleasantly surprised that my hair can look so healthy being blonde! It’s a soft ashy tone that’s washing out to a platinum blonde, and it’s definitely the most radical part of my look.”
GO FOR A BLUSHED BLONDE AND ENHANCE IT WITH COOL BLONDES NEUTRALIZING MASK.
020_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:22 Page 24
Maintain a refined blonde and perfect it with the All Blondes Light Spray Conditioner.
REFINED BLONDE GIVE YOUR BLONDE A NATURAL UPGRADE. Serena, from Paris, was looking for a stunning and natural blonde.
“This was my first time colouring my hair! Naturally, I’m 100% brunette and now it’s a warm honey colour. It took me a while to get used to it but now I have, it has given me a huge confident boost. Not only that, my hair looks and feels absolutely incredible, which is amazing.”
CLEAR BLONDE STAND PROUD, RETAIN YOUR COOL. Frieder, from Berlin, was getting bored of his naturally very dark hair and wanted to try out a new look. MAINTAIN A CLEAR BLONDE WITH THE COOL BLONDES NEUTRALIZING SHAMPOO
020_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:23 Page 25
ADVERTORIAL
RADIANT BLONDE BAN THE WARMTH AND KEEP YOUR COOL. Wardah, from Rihad asked for a whole new look that complemented her darker features.
“I’d never been blonde before, but I’d definitely visualised it and dreamt about it! Naturally, I have black Middle Eastern hair (my father is Saudi and my mother is Pakistani), but I feel like 2020 was a year of breaking rules and proving to my family and the world that anyone can try blonde. It’s funny, when I meet new people now, they say they can’t imagine me not being blonde! I love the glow it gives me, it makes me feel like a super star. I feel powerful and I feel like a rule-breaker.”
MAINTAIN A RADIANT BLONDE WITH THE ALL BLONDES RICH SHAMPOO.
020_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:23 Page 26
SUN-KISSED BLONDE KISS THE SUN AND LIFT YOUR MOOD. Maria, from Rio de Janeiro, asked for a more natural-looking, freehand blonde look rather than classic foil highlights.
“Where I’m from in Brazil, blonde became really popular and it felt like everybody had it at some point. I love being blonde – I feel like it gives lift and warmth to my face. It’s made me more adventurous with beauty, too; I’m wearing more bold red and pink lipsticks. I love the honey colour I have, especially around my face. Those face-framing lighter sections add a really nice brightness and warmth – it feels fresh, strong and beautiful. It’s a complete mood-booster, it’s fun and it makes me more experimental with hairstyles, too.”
MAINTAIN A SUN-KISSED BLONDE WITH THE ALL BLONDES RICH CONDITIONER.
020_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:23 Page 27
ADVERTORIAL
POLISHED BLONDE LET YOUR BLONDE DO THE TALKING. Pamela, who lives in Warsaw, wanted to defy stereotypes with sleek blonde makeover.
“In Eastern Europe and in Russia where I’m from, some old stereotypes about blondes still prevail – things around intelligence or vanity. But of course, that’s not true at all, and the younger generations choose to defy that, because we realise that your hair colour has nothing to do with your career development!
PRESERVE A POLISHED BLONDE LOOK WITH THE ALL BLONDES LIGHT MASK.
Naturally, my hair is a medium brown but I’ve wanted to try a full-on blonde colour for a long time. Being blonde has made me more adventurous with my wardrobe; I’m wearing more bright colours like red and orange. My new light blonde makes me feel like a new me, confident and proud.”
FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THE #BLONDESOFTHEWORLD CAMPAIGN VISIT RDR.LINK/00000, OR TURN TO PAGE 28 TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THE BLONDME COLOUR AND CARE PORTFOLIO.
028_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 15:57 Page 28
SPOTLIGHT
BEST INBLONDE Together with the launch of the #BLONDESOFTHEWORLD campaign, Schwarzkopf Professional has given its BLONDME holistic colour and care collection a brand new makeover. The BLONDME colour portfolio specialises in tackling every blonde hair need, and is complemented by the revamped care range which features an improved assortment structure including dedicated colour coding for easier shelf navigation. With upgraded technology, BLONDME care is the must-have home care range for all blonde clients.
The full care range features new 3D Bond Technology. This next generation of bonding tech, with integrated pH balancing properties, connects hair’s inner bonds by creating a three-dimensional network inside the hair fibre. Bonds are denser than with Schwarzkopf Professional BLONDME’s previous bonding tech, giving long lasting strength and improved results.
BLONDME ALL BLONDES Light Range is a lightweight nourishing system for blondes with fine to normal hair. Using Mulberry Silk Protein Complex, the range rebuilds hair without over burdening it with heavy products.
Find out more at www.rdr.link/HV003
028_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 15:58 Page 29
BLONDME ALL BLONDES Rich Range is an intense nourishing regime for normal to coarse blonde hair. The range uses Cashmere Protein Complex to improve suppleness and strengthen the hair’s inner structure.
BLONDME ALL BLONDES Detox Range is a purifying regime for all hair types. Formulated with Nordic Cotton Protein Complex it revives dull and brassy blondes caused by pollution or hard water minerals and other residues.
BLONDME COOL BLONDES Neutralizing Range is a purple toning regime for all hair types to help remove brassiness. It neutralises yellow undertones for blonde hair and features Velvet Flower Protein Complex.
Brand new BLONDME BLONDE WONDERS are protecting hair perfectors. They can be used in combination with other BLONDME care products to finish every blonde look, adding shine and softness. Restoring Balm can seal split ends up to 90%, reduce frizz for 24 hours, protect from heat up to 210° and has a UV filter. Glaze Mist helps to protect against environmental aggressors. It has a UV filter and leaves hair up to 50% shinier.
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 29
DPS NEW_Layout 1 09/12/2020 12:22 Page 1
DPS NEW_Layout 1 09/12/2020 12:22 Page 2
032_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 15:58 Page 32
ANDREW SMITH Hair Andrew Smith using milk_shake Make-up Louise Lerego Styling Magdalena Jacob Photography Richard Miles
CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HV004
032_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 15:59 Page 33
032_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 15:59 Page 34
032_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 15:59 Page 35
032_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:00 Page 36
032_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:00 Page 37
032_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:00 Page 38
032_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:01 Page 39
Krysia West
Hair Krysia West Make-up Rebecca Rojas Styling Bernard Connolly Photography Tony le Britton
032_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:02 Page 40
032_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:02 Page 41
CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HV005
032_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:03 Page 42
CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HV006
032_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:04 Page 43
Hush: A collection celebrating power, strength & femininity. I created texture, movement & structure to portray sharp looks and style.
Let Lew Hair Let Lew Make-up Zoe Cornwell Styling Amy Still Photography Richard Miles
032_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:04 Page 44
032_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:04 Page 45
032_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:05 Page 46
032_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:05 Page 47
032_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:05 Page 48
Hazel & Haydn Hair Dylan McConnachie Make-up Eleana Auiguro Styling Dylan McConnachie Photography Phillip Vietch
032_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:06 Page 49
CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HV007
DPS NEW_Layout 1 15/12/2020 12:41 Page 1
DPS NEW_Layout 1 15/12/2020 12:41 Page 2
052_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:06 Page 52
BUSINESS
GETTING In my previous columns I’ve talked extensively about the mechanics of business, but with the new year underway I wanted to look at image creation and why this is essential to brand growth. It feels like a precarious time to invest in imagery but I think this is a really essential element of any salon’s assets. We live in such a visual world now, where your website and social media are a more important shop window than your bricks and mortar shop window, and we are one of the most visual professions within that world. How else to communicate our brand but through imagery? They say a picture is worth a thousand words, and this has never been truer than when communicating a haircut or colour. Clients fall in love with an image that speaks to them, it shows them that you are their type of salon, your work is what they want to wear. When I took over at Bad Apple, I committed to budget for three collection shoots a year, but in practice we have grown this even further. Locally we have become known for our urban-chic vibe and now have 38,000 active clients on our books and a retention rate of 65%. The brand started life in Birmingham in 2006 with the single aim of building and developing a thriving and customer-centric hairdressing business dedicated to client care and pushing the creative boundaries. As a result, we now offer an experiential hairdressing service that we believe is second to none. The rapid growth of Bad Apple Hair is something I’m very proud of – we have created a brand that offers a unique experience, trend-led services and flawless hospitality delivered
by our professional team, and this is in no small part down to our imagery. We have a world-class Bad Apple Hair Art Team, who push the business forward creatively and are responsible for our bold, beautiful on-trend colour collections that showcase the brand’s creative spirit and help entice new and potential customers into our salons. These show-stopping collections have received global recognition and provide our skilled stylists, technicians and clients alike, with some serious style inspo to ensure that all Bad Apple Hair clients stand out from the crowd. It’s an integral part of our brand strategy to make sure the services we offer are consistently on trend and our teams work tirelessly to ensure their creative output in-salon is trend-focused and fluid, while being wearable and relatable for each and every one of our clients. As a growing salon group, staying true to our identity, quality and standard of work has been key to the success of the brand and clear brand guidelines and group policies are firmly in place to ensure that our brand message is kept consistent across each of our salons. Alongside this, our management team review our company brand guidelines every 12 months, ensuring the image of the company is kept fresh, progressive and continually evolving in such a fast-paced industry. This has been elevated hugely by our commitment to quickly react and adapt to trends, allowing our team to create shoots in line with key seasonal trends in the world of fashion and hair.
052_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:07 Page 53
GAVIN MILLS IS OWNER OF BAD APPLE HAIR SALONS, NINE SALONS IN THE WEST MIDLANDS AND LIVERPOOL, AND AN ACADEMY IN WOLVERHAMPTON. WITH AN ACTIVE CLIENT BASE OF 38,000, AND A 70-STRONG TEAM, GAVIN IS PLANNING TO EXPAND THE BRAND FURTHER IN 2021, BY TAKING ADVANTAGE OF THE OPPORTUNITIES COVID HAS CREATED TO NEGOTIATE FAVOURABLE RENT AGREEMENTS. THIS MONTH HE TALKS TO US ABOUT IMAGE CREATION, AND HOW THIS IS INTEGRAL TO A BRAND.
THE PICTURE IMAGE MAKING IN 2021 POST COVID RULES FOR SUCCESS CONSIDER YOUR AUDIENCE – who are you shooting for? Don’t approach every shoot like it’s an awards entry as we have done traditionally as an industry – shoot for your clients and your target market. Being commercial and wearable is key, and if you’re not doing extreme looks you’ll keep your model costs down. MAKE YOUR IMAGERY WORK HARDER – does it illustrate a specific colour, texture or treatment service that you can then market with the image? Is it a look that you know will bring clients through the door because they want that hair? THINK ABOUT YOUR BRANDING – who are you and what do you represent? Your imagery should do the same. It should work on your website, shop window, newsletter and social media. USE YOUR TEAM WISELY – have you got someone who’s a whizz at clothes styling or make-up? Or who’s savvy with their iPhone and can edit together some moving images from behind the scenes? Get them involved.
CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HV008
HAVE AN ARRANGEMENT WITH A PHOTOGRAPHER – maybe you have someone full or part time in house who works on your image creation? Or if you’re on a tight budget, you could approach a local college to find a photography student who’s keen to build their portfolio? If you have space to shoot, it could be worth investing in some lighting so you’ve always got that to hand. KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR CLIENTS WHO COULD DOUBLE UP AS MODELS – and find out if they’d be interested in doing some test shots in exchange for some free services. Or approach a local model agency to see if they would collaborate to help build their new faces’ portfolios. We can see the light at the end of the tunnel with COVID now vaccines are on the way so let’s start to think about all the fun we can have creatively this year!
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 53
054_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 17/12/2020 10:05 Page 54
ADVERTORIAL
IGNITE YOUR EDUCATION JOURNEY Take your career to the next level with L’Oréal Access – the online education platform that can inspire, develop and support your personalised education journey. Whether you choose to make a New Year’s resolution for 2021 or not, January is always a good time to set some new goals, advance your career aspirations, or even to learn some new skills. Open to all and free to sign up, L’Oréal Access is the ultimate learning hub for hair professionals that gives you instant access to inspirational mentors, innovative products and the most up-to-date techniques, 24/7. Featuring leading brands from the L’Oréal Professional Products Division portfolio, L’Oréal Access takes a fresh approach to education and helps you to discover a huge range of courses, tutorials, webinars and workshops. With thousands of pieces of content, covering every sector and subject of hairdressing, and a variety of learning formats, from snack-able to the in-depth and advanced - Access enables you to learn the way you want, when you want. Whether you are a salon owner, stylist, freelancer or college student, L’Oréal Access has you covered, so you can rebuild, refresh and ignite your education journey in 2021!
“L’Oréal Access is a great education platform that allows my team and I to take control of our personal development and learning, at times that suit us. As a salon owner, time is precious, so to give the team control of their education and learning, with guidance, makes them more accountable and opens educational discussions, that benefit everyone. We will be coordinating our education calendar at the start of the year. Having Access available at the touch of a button, means courses can be discussed and booked in our time. A very useful educational tool moving into 2021.” Lorenzo Colangelo, The Gallery Hairdressing Tunbridge Wells
Join a community of over 48,000 hair professionals and ignite your education journey today! UK.LOREALACCESS.COM
054_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 17/12/2020 10:05 Page 55
L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL
We all know how difficult it can be to fit in time for training; blocking out time, slipping it in between clients, or even in your own free time. L’Oréal Professionnel has unveiled a solution in the form of an awesome range of new online practical courses specifically designed for you to explore at your own pace and in your own space. The format is ideal for individuals training by themselves or as a resource for group training in your salon. First up is the ‘Getting Started’ series with L’Oréal Professionnel’s expert education team, in which bitesize education classes come at a bitesize prices. With topics such as ‘Getting Started with Balayage’, ‘Getting Started with Highlighting’ and ‘Getting Started with Toning’, these courses are all about teaching you technique rather than learning full looks. They answer the question of how to get started learning a new skill and are also ideal for juniors and college students.
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 55
054_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 17/12/2020 10:06 Page 56
BIOLAGE Whether you’re new to Biolage or a seasoned professional, taking a look at the brand through fresh eyes will give you a fresh perspective on the naturally-inspired iconic hair care brand. As clients are increasingly looking for more natural, stripped-back and ingredient-led hair care, Biolage becomes the go-to brand to satisfy this need. The Biolage Core range is a refreshing hour, where you’ll experience the four existing product families; Colorlast, Hydrasource, Volumebloom and Smoothproof. You’ll be taken through the daily essentials in the Biolage offering, learning the key features of each family. Those familiar with Biolage will know, it’s all about stripping it back for a natural experience, and at the heart of that is the sensual Biolage Signature Massage. While a part of many luxury salon offerings, Biolage does it best. You can learn how to promote well-being and provide the perfect professional head massage tailored to your guest’s preferences at the back bar on Access.
“Good hair, is a journey that is rooted in the efficacy of key care ingredients combined with professional formulas that deliver instant results.” Neil Moodie, Biolage Brand Ambassador
MATRIX Working on a complete colour change can be daunting, so boost your skills and your confidence with Matrix’ Colour Transformation courses. During these 90-minute interactive sessions the Matrix experts will share with you step by step how to take a client’s hair from light to dark or dark to light in easy and predictable steps. You’ll learn how to prepare the hair for optimum results, how to choose the best colouring options and what method to choose to get the best end result tailored to your client. To extend your colour offering even further, award-winning session stylist and educator Lisa Farrall, hosts a full 30-minute tutorial on her Signature Curly Colour as part of her Texture Neutral series.
“Matrix do their utmost to make you feel you are part of a community. I am excited for the future of my relationship with the brand and cannot wait for the next set of training. Thank you!” Liam Dawson, freelancer Liam Dawson Hair
054_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 17/12/2020 10:06 Page 57
REDKEN Learn the inside secrets to successful colour formulations with Redken’s Formula Genius academic session. Perfect your hair colour formulas and use these to overcome your everyday hair colour challenges that you face in your salon. You’ll also discover hidden gems to add to your hair colour back bar that will add success and perfection to all of your colouring services.
“Something we all have second guessed in our careers is colour formulation. We’ve had that moment at our colour bar where we’ve overthought it and prayed to the colour gods for what we’ve decided on to work. This class will dive deep into how we formulate, giving you the tools you need to be confident behind the chair and create bespoke formulas for each of your guests.” Heather King, Radio Hair Salon
KÉRASTASE After almost a year of closures and changes to the way we all run our salons, there’s never been a better time to really get down to business with Kérastase’ course for salon owners and managers. Join Darren Fowler, owner of Fowler35 and education guru, for a three-day online coaching session where you’ll share and learn from like-minded business owners. You’ll cover everything from marketing your brand to understanding your clients and team and ultimately how to grow and evolve your salon business. Kérastase also offers a complimentary dedicated webinar class for reception desk and front of house staff. Whether you fall into this bracket, or you’re a salon manager with newer staff who need a helping hand, this course will teach market insights, luxury retailing and an in-depth understanding on how to diagnose and prescribe take home products for salon guests. Overall, you’ll gain basic product knowledge and a good understanding of the Kérastase brand.
“I absolutely loved Darrens course – I have never learned so much. The support Darren gives is outstanding the advice and help is unreal! He communicates with his audience so well! We have taken on all that he said doing surveys, to staff meetings. Darren had me glued to my chair and as soon as I had finished, I wanted to just go to work and make a start.” Ashleigh Best, Unitfour
PULP RIOT Don’t forget, after the huge success of Pulp Riot Fest in 2020, the brand will be back with a bang this year. This spring the colourful crew at Pulp Riot will host their second virtual hair and arts festival, bringing together some of the biggest names and artistic talent from across the creative industries. Join the gang from your own front row seat for education, entertainment and above all, get ready to be inspired!
“Its great to see that PULP RIOT have joined L’Oréal Access. PULP RIOT is the paint for the modern-day colourist and Access allows hairdressers to be educated on not only how to use the products, but also how to adapt their techniques for the modern-day Instagram savvy client.” Heather Mackenzie @glam.by.heather
SIGN UP TO L’ORÉAL ACCESS AND GAIN ENTRY TO ALL OF THESE BRANDS AND MUCH MUCH MORE AT UK.LOREALACCESS.COM
058_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:07 Page 58
BUSINESS
MEMBERS ONLY BUSINESS CONSULTANT PHIL JACKSON TALKS ABOUT HOW MEMBERSHIP CAN GIVE YOUR BUSINESS A BOOST.
The New Year is the perfect time to think about your business differently, to put some of the horrors of 2020 behind you and rebuild in an exciting new direction. And salon memberships can not only help your salon’s bottom line, but set you apart from your competitors too. More than that, clients are currently looking for ways to support their local businesses. They’ve seen one familiar name after another disappear from the High Street and they have more of an understanding of the economic pressures we’re facing. Memberships give customers a great way to show their support and commitment, but offering them also sends a signal. They tell the customer that you’re confident in your salon’s future, that you’re not afraid to innovate to thrive and most of all, that you’re here to stay. After all, you’re potentially asking your customer to sign up for the next 12 months. Salon memberships are also a terrific way to build customer loyalty. Not in a negative way by ‘locking’ a customer into a contract, but by encouraging higher frequency of visit and, in my own salon, by heaping on the VIP benefits too. If you have employees and have ever felt vulnerable to a team member leaving, memberships can be a really useful way to build loyalty to the salon brand rather than to individuals. We often find that when a stylist or therapist leaves, the membership customer sticks around until the end of their membership term. That gives you an opportunity to impress and build a loyal relationship with a different team member. Speaking of team, memberships are a great way to direct customers to a particular part of your price card too. I’ve seen memberships where the customer can enjoy great extra benefits, but the membership is only available with the more junior team members. That gives the juniors a taste of the challenges that repeat customers can bring and helps them on their way to filling a column of regulars. At the other end of the scale I’ve helped salon owners who want to manage themselves out of the business put memberships in place too. A high-end membership became the only option for clients that wanted to see the salon owner. That encouraged customers into other team members’ columns and helped the owner command a higher price for the few treatments she wanted to do each week. FINANCIAL SECURITY Most importantly though, memberships are a terrific way to help the salon financially. Not only do we get to smooth the peaks and troughs in our turnover, we also have a source of stable income which helps salons plan financially. I used to really struggle to know when it was OK to refit the salon, or grow the team, or invest in equipment or training. By having a percentage of your income on a regular retainer those decisions are much less risky.
So how do we go about building a terrific membership programme? My first step is always to start with exactly who you want the membership to appeal to. Memberships aren’t for everyone and I don’t believe you should move your most profitable customers on to memberships either: they are, after all, already profitable. The perfect membership customer for me is that client who makes a New Year’s resolution to put herself first and make frequent salon visits, but by March life has gotten in the way. Or that customer who you think to yourself “you know, if we just saw you a little more frequently we could get a much better result”. Once you know who the membership is for, knowing what to build is so much easier because we know what is important to the client. Does she need something that makes great sense financially? Or is she after some exclusivity? What is it that would make a membership a no-brainer for her? Keep your membership offering really simple. The most successful memberships I’ve seen have been built around one service or a tight group of services. Ideally you should be able to describe your membership in one sentence – more than that and it’s probably too complicated. When it comes to pricing there is no need to over-discount. Certainly the membership should make financial sense, but it has to be a win-win for you and the client or you’ll come to resent your club members. Try to build in extra benefits to reduce the need to take money off. A free upgrade to a full-head of foils once or twice a year is often enough and doesn’t cost the salon too much. In my own salon we include a “mayday” voucher which guarantees the client same-day service even if we’re fully booked and any day of the year. Another salon I’ve worked with had a slightly different cancellation policy asking for 2-hour’s notice instead of 48 which appealed to her very busy customers. The acid test for pricing is a simple question: If everybody signed up, would this still make financial sense for the salon? If the answer is anything less than a resounding ‘yes’ you’ve probably priced the membership too low. Bigger discounts make sense for ‘last-minute’ memberships though. The toughest thing with promoting a membership is creating scarcity. By definition, the membership is always there so we need to do something that makes the customer want to take action today. A small ‘early-bird’ discount can work or in my own salon we limit the number of memberships available to make signup more desirable. Phil Jackson is the self-styled Queen of Memberships, the founder of QueenOfMemberships.com and has been midwife at the birth of thousands of salon memberships across the world. For more information: www.buildyoursalon.com CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HV010
58 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER
PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 16/12/2020 11:24 Page 1
060_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:08 Page 60
BUSINESS
3 WAYS TO GROW YOUR SALON AWARD-WINNING SALON OWNER CAROLINE SANDERSON HEADS UP THE SALON JEDI COACHING ACADEMY AND IS AUTHOR OF A NEW BOOK, ‘THE ULTIMATE BUSINESS BIBLE FOR AMBITIOUS SALON OWNERS’ AVAILABLE ON AMAZON. THIS MONTH SHE SHARES PART 1 OF HER 3 KEYS TO GROWING YOUR SALON DURING UNCERTAIN TIMES. When it comes to growth of a salon there are only three ways to grow: More clients – More spend – More visits. In the next three columns I’m going to cover the 3 simplest ways to leverage these 3 areas for growth using the 3 R’s: Referrals – Revenue – Returns
PART 1 – REFFERRALS It costs 7-12 times more going after new clients than leveraging your existing client base. Your existing client base is an untapped goldmine. When you have happy clients who love what you do they are more than happy to refer other clients to you. Leveraging referrals is often an under-utilised area for salon owners. Some have referral cards they use occasionally but now more than ever it’s time to 10X your strategies. Here are some ideas. CREATE A REFERRAL ‘CLUB’ WITH ITS OWN COOL NAME AND SHOUT ABOUT IT EVERYWHERE. Clients can join the club to receive nine referral cards. In a test nine was found to be the most effective amount to give clients (don’t give one card implying they have just one friend). Reward both parties equally – the referrer and referee. You don’t always have to give anything, it’s ok to just ask for referrals, but giving a reward for doing so gives an even bigger nudge. The reward could be money off, a free treatment or a product for example. Giving £10 off a service or a product worth £10 that costs you £5 would both need to be tested to see which works best – if you
give a £10 product it’s only costing you £5 for example and you’re not discounting your service but you may not get as many conversions as compared to giving £10 off the service. Yes you may be financially better off offering the product but it may create less referrals. In my first referral club we called our ‘Ego Maniacs Club’ we gave £15 off and a free treatment worth £10 to both parties. We shouted about the club saying “How would you like to get £225 of FREE HAIRDRESSING? Ask your stylist about joining the Club.” The £225 of free hairdressing was: £15 off x 9 £10 treatment x 9 Total £225 This was the total value they would get if they referred 9 clients. We also had chalk boards saying “Ask us how to get your next haircut FREE.”
060_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:08 Page 61
For example if a haircut was £45 they just needed to send us three referrals before their next cut and their £45 in referral credits earned would cover their haircut. We put their cards and instructions into an envelope and we had it on our website. You can create an area of your salon with balloons or flowers to make it stand out and shout about your club at touch points around the salon. You can also incentivise referrals with prizes which we have also done in the past. Refer 3 clients get .... Refer 6 clients get .... Refer 9 clients get .... We have had prizes like iPads as our top prize for nine referrals. No one reached the nine but it encouraged them to put more effort into referrals and drove them up. If they had reached nine it’s worth giving a large prize away as the client is doing the hard work for you. You must think of the client’s lifetime time value (LTV). If a client spends £400 a year and stays for two years on average that’s an LTV of £800. £800 x 9 is worth £7,200 to you, what prize are you willing to give for this?
CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HV011
Also letting clients know you are a referral based business at each point of contact helps plant the seed for referrals. We say it on our website home page, our email signature and in our front of house script that if a NEW client books the first thing we ask is who referred you. If they say they were not referred we say we are just checking because we are a referral based business and most of our new clients come from referrals (which they do.) In the past decade we have had thousands of new clients through our own salon doors, the majority of which were from referrals. In our most successful year we had over 2000 new clients and had to grow into a salon double the size of the one we were in. Another tip is asking all your A List clients for referrals, reach out to them by letter sending them the cards (or any other way you
decide to run your club.) Let them know how grateful you are to have them as one of your top clients and you are ready and willing to serve the people they care about too and what’s in it for them (£225 of free hairdressing for example). People hang with like-minded people so asking your top clients for referrals is a great strategy to find your tribe. Don’t be scared to ask for referrals and even if you’re already running some sort of incentive think how you can 10X it. Here’s to your salon success! Find more strategies like these in our Salon Jedi book – all royalties go to the Mind charity and Hair & Beauty charity – or subscribe to our Salon Jedi YouTube channel.
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 61
062_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:08 Page 62
BUSINESS
THOMAS HILLS, DIRECTOR, TH1 HAIR, OXTED, LOOKS AT HOW SALON BUSINESSES CAN PREPARE + PIVOT FOR A POST-PANDEMIC FUTURE
MIND YOUR BUSINESS Never before has a New Year seemed so welcome, with 2021 offering the opportunity to quite literally put the trials and tribulations of 2020 behind us. If only it were quite that easy, however, as the repercussions for businesses will of course be long lasting. The hairdressing industry has suffered immeasurably; as salon owners, we have endured more fundamental and fast-paced shifts in our businesses over the last ten months than we could ever have envisaged over ten years. Catastrophic losses and changes in turnover, teams and clients, along with the need for continually evolving and robust risk assessment have meant it’s been hugely challenging to collectively keep our heads above water. Such a rapidly changing tide has been hard to navigate, with many businesses – both large and small – discovering to their cost just how financially fragile they really are. Despite this challenging context however, we have also had time to establish fresh routines within the ever-evolving parameters and guidelines. We have had to be innovative and nimble, willing to adapt and react to difficulties and opportunities as we have addressed the new reality of running a business in a post-pandemic landscape that changes – as we have found to our cost – without any warning. Agility and speed of response has always been a key element of any business DNA, and never more so than now. The current climate means we have had to think on our feet, adapt, react, pull together and focus on the bigger picture – and all the while trying to remain calm in the face of what can sometimes seem insurmountable pressure. What has been apparent to me as a consumer, rather than a business owner, is that the response of businesses and the way in which they handled the COVID-19 crisis will be what they are remembered for; their reactions will define them, becoming the hallmark they leave behind. Post-pandemic our views on those who handled it ‘correctly’ will leave a lasting impression, and those companies best positioned to succeed will be the ones who put people first. As a result, caring will become the most powerful business advantage and one we should use to ours. Customers may forget what you said, but they’ll never forget how you made them feel. In a people-focused industry like ours, this advantage will be vital – who knows how the retail and consumer landscape will change. Yes it’s true people will always need hairdressers, but there’s likely to be a shift in consumer awareness that means clients will be looking for companies that care – about them, about their team and about a collective wellbeing. With this in mind, communication will be more vital post-pandemic than it was before, with a refocused business picture that will require redefining as we go. This redefinition will come as we slowly and steadfastly rebuild our businesses. Our focus must remain on a positive mind-set, on team morale, and on continual client engagement. Connection is key and will prove vital to the future of your business, a barometer of how you care about the wellbeing of your team. It’s not a time to bury our heads in the sand (even if we may have wanted to at times), but instead, a huge opportunity to do things differently as we forge a new path. What worked yesterday is unlikely to form the business blueprint of the future, so we must all adapt and react to the new normal, showcase financial resilience and business agility and reframe our understanding of what this means for ourselves and our businesses.
62 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER
Here’s what I believe will help us to thrive and survive in a rapidly changing marketplace, and ensure our industry remains at the forefront of innovation and creation: 씰 OPPORTUNITY KNOCKS – while survival has been key to many hairdressing businesses since COVID-19 took hold, as we head into a new year, it’s advantageous to think longer-term about decisions that could benefit your business. This is an opportunity for all businesses to pause and reflect: look at how far you have come, re-evaluate your business goals and change what wasn’t working. 씰 MONEY MATTERS – none of us were prepared for a global pandemic, and while some of us may have been more financially astute than others, it’s taught us all to prepare for unforeseen circumstances. We have all lost huge amounts of revenue, so it’s about implementing a slow and steady strategy that may be hugely different to the one you envisaged at the start of 2020. 씰 TALK IS CHIC – as this time has proven, communication has been vital for making your team and clients feel valued, respected and cared for. If managed correctly, a crisis can bring people together, facilitating a ‘can-do’ attitude and spirit of endurance, but if managed incorrectly it can push people apart. Look at how you communicate with your team and client base and ensure you’re open, honest and above all, authentic. 씰 FUTURE PERFECT – future proofing your business should be an on-going priority and strategy and speed of response should be firmly embedded into your business DNA. COVID-19 has accelerated critical changes in every salon business. Yes it has exposed flaws in how we were so little prepared, however it has also allowed us to be more receptive to change and respond differently to any future challenges. 씰 TAKE YOUR TIME – Don’t rush your decision-making but do make plans. Take time to consider the implications but keep looking to the future, with the ability to adapt as and when necessary. In navigating unprecedented business disruption, most salons have displayed a huge amount of resilience, which can be channelled into a business plan that shows both creativity and agility. 씰 REACT + ADAPT – Intuition is your most powerful business tool: while we can’t predict the future, we can predict how we will react to change, and ensuring you’re flexible with the ability to react and adapt accordingly should be a key driver in your business model, moving forward. 씰 GROW YOUR OWN – What has become abundantly clear over recent months is that if your thought process stays the same, your business won’t be sustainable, so it’s important to encourage a growth mind-set amongst yourself and your team to allow you all to respond to any challenges along the way.
063_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:09 Page 63
BUSINESS
A NEW COLOUR FRONTIER PASSION4HAIR AND MALIBU C DISTRIBUTOR DEBBIE DIGBY LOOKS AT COLOUR COMMUNICATION Times, they are changing. There is no denying that Covid-19 has caused challenges to our industry, but there are some positives emerging from the change we are compelled to face. I identified a couple of years ago the need to change the consultation process with clients, particularly those wanting complex technical services. The traditional process of consultation with a client for 5-10 minutes before the service begins leaves the stylist in a vulnerable position which may result in the client ending up not entirely satisfied with the result because her expectations were not met, despite the stylist doing the best they can on the day. For example, a client books in for balayage, and when she arrives it is clear she has coloured her hair previously. The client has a picture of the desired outcome, it needs lightening several levels. Some of the hair that needs lightening is natural, and some is coloured. For a busy stylist the clock is already ticking before the next client arrives. The scenarios that can emerge from this situation are varied and many, for my stylists it was becoming stressful and I knew something had to change.
Digital Consultations It is important to communicate with a client 48 hours before a colour appointment for skin testing, so why not start the consultation about the service at this time? We called this new process of consulting – Digital Consultation and the goal – to know exactly how the service will be performed and the likelihood of the end result being achieved. It has led to the increase of strand testing and reporting to clients in advance the result they can expect. The process we use has developed over the last couple of years but the event of Covid-19 has propelled it forward to a new level. Part of the post lockdown measures require us to send consultations and information to a client before the appointment and this gave us the opportunity to formalise the digital consultation process. We are able to identify easily which services are not going to be straight forward and we make a digital appointment to call or facetime for a consultation. Pre lockdown we found clients sometimes reluctant to engage in this way, but communication in this manner is part of the “new normal” of our world, the attitude of the clients and the stylists has changed. Stylists are keen to consult with a client as early as possible and their preferred method is video. Clients are reassured by the consultation and many services are replanned (and upgraded) as a result of the thorough analysis of the desired outcome which often includes strand testing.
are caused by modern day living. For example, you have probably encountered what Malibu C stylists know as ‘hidden highlights’. You give your client the most beautiful set of highlights, carefully weaved in your signature placement, lifted to the desired level and toned to perfection. She returns six weeks later telling you her highlights have ‘faded’. You look at her hair bewildered, yes, the highlights certainly look dull, or may even have disappeared altogether. But how you wonder? Bleach doesn’t fade!
What’s Hiding In the Water? What is in your shower water is often one of the culprits of many common issues for the hair and scalp. Water is packed with minerals and chemicals that wreak havoc on client’s hair and cause issues for salon services; colour fade, poor coverage, brassy blondes, ashy hues, flat or lacklustre lengths and results that just don’t last. Have you noticed what happens to your glass shower door over time? Yes, it becomes misty with deposits of minerals as the water runs down the glass, imagine how the minerals deposit inside and outside the hair! Those mineral deposits interfere with products and processes making hair services unpredictable and volatile.
Guaranteed Services If you too are using this current situation as a catalyst to move forward to a new frontier in hairdressing, Malibu C is essential for your toolbox. Malibu C Hair Wellness Remedies are designed to act as a ‘spring clean’ ahead of your services, they work safely and naturally removing unwanted minerals, oxidisers and build up. Results will be even, long lasting and precisely what you expected. All this with no damage whatsoever to the hair. It’s no wonder iconic Sassoon colourist, Annie Humphreys chose Malibu C Crystal Gel when asked in an interview, what was the one product she would take on a desert island.
Revenue Opportunity Looking for ways to upgrade your services? Malibu C provides the perfect opportunity to add new services like Malibu Makeover or naturally derived Colour Pigment Remover and upgrade your client bill with hair solutions she will love and that help deliver the results she desires.
Want To Know More? On the first Sunday and Monday of every month Malibu C have classes to help stylists understand the solutions offered by Malibu products. The classes include implementing digital consultations. For information contact Passion4hair on 01908 272863
Problem Solving There are many problems we face when carrying out services that
CLICK HERE TO WATCH THIS VIDEO OR GO TO www.rdr.link/HV012
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 63
PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 16/12/2020 12:41 Page 1
065_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:09 Page 65
BUSINESS
REBOOT YOUR SALON BUSINESS WITH OVER 30 YEARS EXPERIENCE MANAGING THE BUSINESS OF ONE OF THE LARGEST AND HIGHEST GROSSING SALONS IN THE UK, RICHARD WARD HAIR & METRO SPA, HELLEN WARD HAS DESIGNED A SERIES OF E-LEARNING WEBINARS TO REBOOT YOUR BUSINESS IN THESE UNCERTAIN TIMES. business in the hair or beauty sector should think about. I’ve had to adapt my tried and tested principals to help any salon scale up or down and meet the uncertainty this pandemic has brought, and I hope that sharing my learnings may bring any salon owner some clarity and perspective.
Re-setting, re-framing and re-thinking salons is vital if we are to survive. Businesses need to adopt the mantra ‘adapt or die’ and the tried and tested saying of ‘find products/services for your customer, not customers for your product/services’ has never been more relevant. With customer behaviour changing and client numbers reducing, coupled with people leaving it longer and longer between appointments, making sure salon owners and managers don’t carry the burden of responsibility for staff performance is vital. Where there are problems, there are solutions, but we know every action has a consequence. I spent Lockdown 1 restructuring my business to help weather the storm – changing the way I looked at the business and making sure the team fully understood what they needed to do to ensure we safeguarded the future for all of us. With such uncertainty and a different way of living and working, salons have suffered, as all close contact services have. But we can future-proof our business models and adapt to these changes, and I hope to help salon owners do just that. Whatever size salon you have, the challenges are the same. Re-booting how we do things is not just advised, but essential.
SALON REBOOT: The Series There are many educational platforms out there, but rarely much from salon owners who are also on the front line. In my e-learning and webinars I cover four crucial areas which anyone running a
The challenges and uncertainties salons face can be overwhelming, so never has it been more important to share information and work for the common good. Accountants and advisors may be helpful, but insider knowledge or what realistic benchmarks we can operate to is something they can’t help with, as they are sector-specific. Looking at a business with fresh eyes is hard in this challenging times. I take salon owners of any size through a series of ideas and checklists to help them bullet-proof their business for the future. Not only can the learner access this information as and when they choose, but I hope to explain it in a user-friendly way using ‘hairdresser speak’ not jargon. Knowledge is power, and knowing we’ve done all we can and health- checked and MOT’d every area of the business helps us feel more empowered as leaders and motivators. Faced with dwindling turnover and mounting costs, decreasing client numbers can feel like we are powerless. My e-learning will help salon owners feel more in control and give them ideas to maximise productivity, reduce costs, restructure their teams and feel like they are in the driving seat again.
SALON REBOOT: Business Series has been developed to help you if you don’t know where to start or want to deep dive into a particular area and is hosted by Hellen Ward, of Richard Ward Hair & Metro Spa. With over 30 years experience managing the salon’s business, Hellen is widely acknowledged as one of the industry’s business gurus.
What is available? Salon Reboot E-learning – complimentary, over 30 minutes it introduces you to four key business pillars to get you started: income, costs, team and clients.
Salon Reboot Webinars – £49 each, come to matching two-hour in-depth webinars running in January.
Anyone can join, simply register on L’Oréal Access for free and search SALON REBOOT. uk.lorealaccess.com Ie.lorealaccess.com
Find out more at www.rdr.link/HV013
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 65
066_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:09 Page 66
BUSINESS
GREEN GOALS ANNE VECK’S RESOLUTIONS TO SUPPORT SALONS’ SUSTAINABILITY GOALS Sustainability is at the heart of Anne Veck Oxford. In fact, the business is so dedicated to environmental ethics that they are the UK’s first – and only – Carbon Neutral salon. Sustainable success didn’t come overnight for Anne and her partner Keith. It has been a long road to achieve their green goals – and the work is ongoing, as the salon continues to adapt and develop to changing conditions and developments in product technology. However, Anne and Keith are proud to currently be running a sustainable and ethical business, and are so committed to supporting other hairdressers in their green choices that they have pooled all of their resources and research to create a three-part sustainable salon toolkit – available free of charge to support the rest of the industry in making the small changes that will make a big impact. The tool kit which goes under the name of Salon Re:Source is the result of years of work, trial and error and tried-and-tested products, suppliers and services. The exhaustive, but accessible, guide is separated into three stages: Quick Wins, Next Steps and Major Changes. Over the next three issues, we’ll be sharing some of Anne and Keith’s expertise. “Business as usual is not an option. Let’s get that clear from the start,” says Anne. “The world is facing emergencies in health, human rights, climate change and extinction – but what can we do? It can seem that the problems in the world today are so big, the only sensible call to action is to go ostrich and bury your head in the sand. However, because we are in the hairdressing industry, we actually have the power to make a real difference. We use huge amounts of energy, water, plastic and chemicals, and we produce large amounts of waste. UK salons on their own produce roughly the same volume of carbon emissions as a small country!” (Source: www.nationmaster.com) “At Anne Veck Oxford, we have been trying to make a difference by reducing demand for energy, lowering the salon’s energy use, meeting our reduced energy needs from renewable sources, reducing our own and our clients’ carbon footprints, reducing waste through more efficient systems and using ethical and sustainable products and packaging where possible.” “Anything we can do, you can do too,” she says. “Salon Re:Source is designed to make it easy to make your salon more sustainable and ethical. We believe that we are now trading in a world where being kind to our fellow humans and the earth resonates with our clients and is the key to commercial success. Becoming a sustainable salon is a journey. We are all where we are, rather than where we’d like to be, on this – so do what you can, but start now!” “For immediate, maximum, positive, world-changing action, check out our three top tips,” says Anne. “If you do just three things, do these. These actions will make a big, positive difference to several major problems in one go.” 1. CHANGE FROM COTTON TO BIODEGRADABLE, COMPOSTABLE TOWELS, CAPES AND GOWNS In the salon, this change will save water, reduce energy use and
66 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER
reduce staff time spent on laundry. Where cotton is grown, it will reduce damaging industrial farming and water usage. Having an individual towel for each client also means improved hygiene, which is crucial in the current climate. Biodegradable towels, capes and gowns can be composted, or even go to landfill with no harm done. They should be made from sustainable materials, saving rainforests from destruction. We use Easydry. Others are available but it is not always clear from their websites if the wood-based material they use is sustainably and ethically produced so it is really important to do your research and ask the questions. 2. SWITCH TO GREEN ENERGY Move to a clean energy supplier. Several providers guarantee 100% green electricity, generated from renewables with a percentage of their gas coming from green sources as well. The list includes Ecotricity, Good Energy and Green Energy UK. 3. WORK WITH A CONSCIOUS SUPPLIER There are an increasing number of well- known brands offering safe, ethically and sustainably-produced products and packaging, free of harsh chemicals and including organic and vegan ranges. In terms of packaging, there is debate about which materials are the most sustainable – advanced plastics, reclaimed plastics, glass, aluminium, etc. Elsewhere in the first part of Salon Re:Source you’ll find in depth advice and tips for quick and easy changes that don’t cost much money, if anything, and which will start to help you save money straight away. Sections covered, with recommendations and advice for each, include: 씰 Reducing energy consumption and carbon footprint though smart choices and changes in lighting, heat and insulation. 씰 Water usage and how to manage and improve it. 씰 Plastic consumption and alternatives to single-use plastics – including refreshments, gloves, recycling and reusing necessary plastics. 씰 Waste reduction and recycling, including for hairdressing materials, hair, colour and foils. 씰 Paper, printing and digital alternatives. 씰 Ethical refreshments to cater for all diets. 씰 Sustainable cleaning products and brands. 씰 Ethical and sustainable technology choices, including programs, internet providers and devices. 씰 Plants, air freshener alternatives and more options for a fresh, fragrant salon. 씰 Supporting local suppliers and charities. Salon Re:Source also contains information on accreditation for sustainable and ethical salons, and contacts for even more support in your green journey. For more information and to download the guide for absolutely free: bit.ly/SalonReSourceUK.
067_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:10 Page 67
PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT
Cultivating Beauty BULBS&ROOTS is sowing the seeds of innovation with its wide-ranging sustainable colour portfolio. Bulbs&Roots from Dennis Williams claims to use the best ingredients of natural origin, a conscious and sustainable formulation approach, great attention to the use of recycled materials and the use of cutting-edge technologies for water recycling. The brand says this is its way of safeguarding your clients’ beauty.
Guided by ethical behaviour and social responsibility Bulbs&Roots has selected raw materials and naturally derived ingredients extracted from organic plants to ensure maximum respect for the well being of people, their hair and the environment. This philosophy, a project with the client at the centre, has resulted in a colour portfolio of vegan friendly formulas with a 100% green-oriented approach.
PROMISING PACKAGING ● Post consumer recycled PET bottles ● Recyclable aluminium bottles ● Labels with low environmental impact ● Cases and cartons made from FSC paper
Bulbs&Roots Hair Color Cream achieves 3-4 levels of bleaching with primary colours and up to 4-5 levels with super-bright colours. The range features 64 shades, five toners, five super bleaches and seven correctors.
ESSENTIALLY NATURAL COLOUR Based on a precious cosmetic cream, with soothing and nourishing Liquorice extract, Bulbs&Roots Hair Color Cream acts gently and with exceptional results on the hair, ensuring colour stability and coverage of whites and greys. Liquorice extract calms the skin and moisturises the hair stem during the colouring process, while the presence of surfactants derived from coconut gives the colour the ability to emulsify in contact with water, so it can be easily rinsed out without stressing the skin and hair.
Also included in the Bulbs&Roots colour offering is a range of developers from 5 to 40 vol, and Hair Lightening Powder.
Available exclusively at Dennis Williams www.dennis-williams.co.uk Find out more at www.rdr.link/HV014
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 67
068_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:10 Page 68
PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT
PLANT POWER Aveda’s vegan Botanical repair™ range is powered by plant-derived 3-layer hair repair technologies that repair and protect the three key layers of hair, leaving it visibly revived and shinier. It was formulated for those with all hair types and textures looking to repair or strengthen the hair and is also safe for colour treated and chemically processed hair.
HOW IT WORKS: Repair at the cortex. Aveda’s plant-derived bond multiplying molecule goes below the surface of the hair to multiply bonds, strengthening and reinforcing hair integrity at the core. Prevent at the cuticle. Aveda’s nourishing macro green blend of avocado, green tea and sacha inchi smooths the cuticle to detangle, helping prevent breakage. Protect at the F-layer. Aveda’s protective plant-based complex creates a
botanical F-layer, an invisible water-resistant lipid layer that is made of a fatty acid that “seals” the surface of the hair cuticle, helping protect and shield the hair from future damage. The botanical repair™ professional treatment strengthens and repairs to dramatically reduce breakage, and helps protect hair during a colour service, leaving hair stronger, visibly revived, shiny and full of life. To maintain professional results between visits, the retail system will help keep hair strong and shiny between salon treatments.
THE BOTANICAL REPAIR™ RETAIL COLLECTION: botanical repair™ strengthening shampoo: Luxuriously cleanses and gently removes excess oil, product build-up and pollution. botanical repair™ strengthening conditioner: Conditions and instantly detangles helping minimize breakage, and leaves hair looking shiny and healthy.
Environmental Standards Featuring a naturally derived fresh, light floral, herbal aroma, the botanical repair™ collection is 93% naturally derived2, silicone-free, sulfate cleanser-free and vegan; and like all Aveda products, is cruelty free and manufactured with 100% wind power through renewable energy and carbon offsets. The bottles, jars and their respective caps are made with 100% post-consumer recycled packaging, and the tubes are made with a minimum of 59% post-consumer recycled materials and up to 41% bioplastic, and their respective caps are made with minimum 60% post-consumer recycled materials.
THE BOTANICAL REPAIR™ PROFESSIONAL COLLECTION: botanical repair™ professional equalizing primer: Conditions, treats and evens out porosity, priming hair for a colour service1. botanical repair™ professional strengthening additive: Contains bond strengthening technology to help strengthen hair1.
botanical repair™ intensive strengthening masque – light: Intensive treatment strengthens and multiplies bonds for deep repair. Instantly transforms hair leaving it visibly healthier, softer and shiner after just 1 use.
botanical repair™ professional bond activator – light: Strengthens and multiplies bonds for deep intensive repair with plant-powered 3-layer hair repair1.
botanical repair™ intensive strengthening masque – rich: Targets 3 layers of hair, intensely repairing with added butters. Ideal for all textures of medium to thick hair.
botanical repair™ professional bond activator – rich: Contains 5X the blend of butters and oils than the light bond activator1.
botanical repair™ strengthening leave-in treatment: Repairs, prevents and protects against damage reduces breakage in just 1 use for instantly stronger hair. Protects against heat styling up to 450°F and drying effects of the sun.
68 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER
1
When used as a 3-step professional system.
Learn more at www.rdr.link/HV015
069_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:11 Page 69
THE LATEST PRODUCT LINE UP
WHAT’S NEW STYLETEK has arrived from the US to cover all of your salon foil needs. Teamed up with Rebel Beauty Brands, STYLETEK sources the cleanest raw materials and has tested over 20 thicknesses of foil over the years to determine what you, as stylists and colourists, want. At the same time the brand has been able to create the foils on a mass scale which in turn saves you money. www.rdr.link/HV016
Indola has unveiled a sustainable care and styling range. ACT NOW! consists of six care and six styling products which all have vegan formulas. The care range features natural ingredients such as Chia Seed Extract, Almond Oil and Shea Butter, while the styling range replaces traditional compounds such as silicone in favour of natural starch and coconut oil, which are better for both our hair and the planet. www.rdr.link/HV017
The Clip-In Deluxe Plus set from Remi Cachet is designed for those wanting super long, mega volume hair instantly. The clip-ins are 100% Asian human hair and are available in two lengths – 20 inch and 24 inch. The set also includes a vented brush for brushing curls and blow-drying, a pin tail comb and sectioning clips. www.rdr.link/HV018
KEVIN.MURPHY’s brand-new SCALP.SPA range utilises Micelles to gently attract and dissolve impurities without stripping the skin. The micro-cleanser unclogs, soothes, tones and cleanses for optimal hair and scalp health. Together with co-surfactants derived from hydrating coconut oil, micellar technology gives the SCALP.SPA system its youth-boosting edge. www.rdr.link/HV019
The power of INNOLUXE is now available in an at-home retail form. The new #SAVED Shampoo, Conditioner and Mask are the British bond-building brand’s first range of homecare products designed for all hair colours. All three products protect, enhance and save colour from fading. They feature nourishing ingredients such as amino acids and glycerine to give any look a stunningly healthy shine. www.rdr.link/HV020
New to Guy Tang’s #mydentity brand is #MyHero Collagen Powder. This protective booster is a revolutionary powder additive that mixes into any colour or lightening formula to prevent damage before it starts. It also promises no noticeable difference to the formula appearance or viscosity, no affect to the colour result and no additional processing time needed. www.rdr.link/HV021
SACHAJUAN’s new Scalp Scrub is a deep cleansing and purifying sugar scrub containing natural Sucrose which helps to exfoliate and unclog the scalp’s surface from dandruff, oil build-up and dead skin while also promoting new cell growth. Nurturing Shea Butter and Soybean Oils also help to lock in moisture in the scalp and hair without any greasiness. www.rdr.link/HV022
Curl Shaper is a new range from the curl experts, Ouidad. The Curl Shaper collection takes the guesswork out of curls as it’s specifically formulated for textured hair with curl-friendly ingredients – consistency, definition and volume are no longer a question mark. The products will cleanse without stripping or drying and add moisture to help restor the natural curl pattern. www.rdr.link/HV023
Vegan and cruelty free brand, MONAT have launched the Studio One Flexible Hold Gel. The silicone-free gel delivers strong, flexible hold with style memory, providing 24-hour touchable control without any of the stiffness. Its lightweight formula makes for a natural look and feel, whilst weightlessly blocking humidity and frizz for up to 72 hours. www.rdr.link/HV024
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 69
070_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:11 Page 70
COLOUR CLOSE-UP
GREY’S THE WAY
Wella Professionals has come up with an all-you-need-to-know Grey Blending initiative which includes a Grey Blending Bible featuring step-by-steps and campaign images by Wella Professionals UKI Technical Director Robert Eaton. A MUST READ
The Grey Blending Bible includes ideas of different services and techniques that salons can offer. These include highlighting grey hair, services to blend grey hair, how to disguise the first signs of grey hair, how to charge for the service, formulas and shade selections using Wella Professionals Illumina Color, Color Touch, Koleston Perfect and Color Fresh. There’s also a guide for client consultations, a Q&A and advice around the best products for grey hair.
We spoke to Robert Eaton about the grey movement and how it is important for salons to embrace this. So Robert, how important is it to have a good knowledge of the modern grey? “In the past we have seen trends dominate the high street, such as the perm era, the highlight decade, balayage, vivid colours, and tonal work. Now, there is a move towards natural hair enhancement and Grey Blending is an opportunity to launch new salon services and techniques and re-engage with loyal clients. This is the new movement in hair colour.” How will this work for ‘grey’ clients? “Grey Blending and more conscious hair colour placement give colourists and salons the opportunity to increase the variety of hair colour services on offer, and ensures we are creating hair colour that works for all clients. Grey Blending does not mean no colour at all, it often is a hair colour journey over several visits to create the perfect blend, and Grey Blending can be used to add modern tones to grey hair keeping it absolutely on trend.” How will salons benefit from offering a Grey Blending service? “Grey Blending as a colour service is a way of planning a hair journey that builds on client loyalty Anything that helps us engage more effectively with our clients and communicate tasteful hair colour in a way that works for our clients and their maintenance expectations, is very exciting.”
The Grey Blending Bible includes the following looks: “This technique is the perfect way of beginning the Grey Blending journey. Working with the natural hair, the percentage of grey and white that is showing and offering a colour result that is blended and in beautiful condition.” Robert Eaton “I love this result, as it shows that Grey Blending is not always about going lighter. It can be a combination of adding depth and tone whilst working with accent areas of lightness and grey to accentuate the haircut.” Robert Eaton
Learn more at www.rdr.link/HV025 70 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER
071_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:11 Page 71
PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT
CARING CREW
A new men’s range that cleans and cares
With a commitment to environmental sustainability, American Crew introduces a new and improved hair care collection. The range is vegan, silicone-free and features re-engineered packaging made with a minimum of 80% Post-Consumer Recycled Plastic in retail sizes (250ml, 450ml and 1l) — a key initiative to begin to reduce energy consumption in the manufacturing process and helping divert waste from landfill. The new hair care collection includes an enhanced range of shampoos and conditioner that provide expert, professional solutions to men’s diverse hair needs and concerns. The hero product of the lineup is the new American Crew® Detox Shampoo — an exfoliating and detoxifying shampoo for a deep cleansing experience. In addition, there are three redesigned, high-performing formulas including American Crew® Daily Cleansing Shampoo, Daily Deep Moisturizing Shampoo and Daily Moisturizing Conditioner for different hair needs. The collection is formulated with a new emulsifying system designed to provide a richer lather and thicker, denser foam for a luxurious experience, to ensure softness and moisture. Consisting of a high percentage of naturally derived ingredients, each formula contains Vitamin B5 to provide moisture and promote healthy-looking hair, while the Citrus Mint Fragrance provides a refreshing and invigorating sensorial experience.
American Crew would like to gift TWO readers a complete set of the NEW American Crew Hair Care Renovation including:
AMERICAN CREW® DAILY CLEANSING SHAMPOO 250ML £11.50 €12.95, 450ML £14.95
AMERICAN CREW® DETOX SHAMPOO A detoxifying and deep cleansing shampoo to remove build up from styling products and excess sebum that accumulate on the hair, all while gently exfoliating the scalp. 씰 Contains Manicouagan Clay, a mineral rich clay from the depths of Manicouagan Lake in Norther Canada that infuses scalp with essential minerals such as iron, calcium, sodium, potassium and zinc. 씰 Coconut Shell Beads to gently massage helping to promote the scalp’s micro-circulation. 씰 Vitamin B5 for moisture, promoting healthy-looking hair. 씰 Features 80% naturally derived ingredients.
AMERICAN CREW® DAILY CLEANSING SHAMPOO A daily shampoo to wash away excess oil and effectively cleanse hair without drying out the hair, making it suitable for daily use. 씰 Recommended for normal to oily hair and scalp. 씰 Washes away impurities without drying out the hair, leaving hair soft and manageable. 씰 Vitamin B5 for moisture, promoting healthy looking hair. 씰 Features 91% naturally derived ingredients.
AMERICAN CREW® DEEP MOISTURIZING SHAMPOO A daily shampoo that cleanses and conditions in one simple step without causing build-up, resulting in an immediate soft and conditioned after-feel. 씰 Recommended for normal to dry hair. 씰 Ultra-moisturising formula that cleanses and conditions in one simple step. 씰 Vitamin B5 for moisture, promoting healthy looking hair. 씰 Delivers much-needed hydration leaving scalp invigorated. 씰 Features 84% naturally derived ingredients.
AMERICAN CREW® DAILY MOISTURIZING CONDITIONER
GIVEAWAY AMERICAN CREW® DETOX SHAMPOO 250ML £11.50
THE LINE UP
AMERICAN CREW® DEEP MOISTURIZING SHAMPOO 250ML £11.50 €12.95, 450ML £14.95 AMERICAN CREW® DAILY MOISTURIZING CONDITIONER 250ML £12.50 €13.95, 450ML £15.95
Find out more at www.rdr.link/HV026
An ultra-moisturising formula designed to restore, strengthen and protect hair leaving it soft, manageable and ready for styling. 씰 Protects against dryness. 씰 Simultaneously detangles and moisturises hair without weighing it down. 씰 Vitamin B5 for moisture, promoting healthy looking hair. 씰 Conditions hair to enhance manageability without causing build-up. 씰 Reduces hair breakage from combing by 86%. 씰 Features 91% naturally derived ingredients.
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 71
PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 16/12/2020 11:26 Page 1
073_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:12 Page 73
January 26th 2021 is Australia Day and to celebrate say G’day to the Wizards of Oz in our Australian Special.
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 73
074_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:12 Page 74
Jayne’s Creds HAIR EXPO AUSTRALIAN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR AUSTRALIAN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR X 3 SALON TEAM OF THE YEAR X 4 NEW SALON DESIGN HALL OF FAME INDUCTION AUSTRALIAN HAIR FASHION AWARDS NSW HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR 2003 ARTISTIC TEAM OF THE YEAR 2003 DYSON AUSTRALIAN AMBASSADOR WALLPAPER* MAGAZINE – TOP 20 REASONS TO BE IN AUSTRALIA
074_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:12 Page 75
PEOPLE
Talent spotting down under
As a stylist, salon owner, educator, art director and mentor, PAULINE McCABE’s love of art has defined her career and ensured that her hair work is always creatively a cut above. Her keen eye knows a good ‘egg’ when she sees one, and she’s joined forces with Pro Hair to introduce us to some real Aussie gems that will inspire us. There’s something wild about Jane... With over 35 years in hairdressing Jayne Wild is an industry icon. Starting out in the UK, it was under the guidance of Terry Calvert at Clipso that her passion for the craft was ignited. Moving to Australia in 1988 she found a new home. Opening Wild Life Hair Origin in 1993 in Milson’s Point, overlooking Sydney Harbour, she unknowingly established one of the world’s most beautiful salon experiences. A celebrated communicator, Jayne tailors looks to best suit her clients and has the grace and skill to deliver. From versatile longer styles to one of her signature fringes her work is always of the highest fashion calibre. One of Australia’s most awarded salons, her proudest achievement was winning the prestigious title of Hair Expo Australian Hairdresser of the Year, three times. Jayne is not only a master of her craft, but a truly generous educator. Dedicated to hair’s role in the fashion industry, Jayne directs Fashion Week shows in New York, Sydney and Melbourne, building a reputation as one of hair’s most beautiful ‘dressers’: Her trademark style of relaxed sophistication making her a true couture stylist. Jayne’s passion for her craft is captured in her animated personality. A true storyteller, she brings her vision to life with her editorial collections, stand out shows and amazing team of ‘Poppets’ that continue to wow stages worldwide. While Jayne’s experience runs across all aspects of her trade it is still in the salon that you capture the essence of her work. Jayne ensures her clients experience professionalism in a modern salon with a homely feel – and of course, beautiful hair!
What product do you think the world can do without? Nicotine. What is that one joke that you cannot tell without laughing hard? I do laugh a lot at life but I’m so not a joke teller!!! Can’t remember them half the time!!! What good happened to you today? Just watched British Hairdresser of the Year and Sally Brookes won again. Yeah! Girl power is coming back! When you are gone, what you like people to remember you by? Kindness although I plan to outlive everyone I know! What do you spend most of your time doing? Apart from playing with hair – I LOVE CLEANING!!! I’m obsessed! What do you spend way too much money on? Beauty products and shoes! What is the most impressive skill you have? ‘Killing with Kindness’, something I use a lot on difficult/negative people. It works most of the time. What is the biggest change you want to make in your life? Get a beach house to chill out in. What is your best piece of advice? Keep turning up and get on with it! Never stop learning! What do you think is the best feeling in the world? Laying on a beach in the sun being burnt to a crisp! Professionally it’s seeing others I love achieve. Best feeling in the world.
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 75
076_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:13 Page 76
COLOUR CLOSE-UP
COUTURE COLOUR Designed in Australia with a taste of Italy thrown in, LEYTON HOUSE PROFESSIONAL’s COUTURE SILK boasts high fashion results from a plant-based formula.
Leyton House Professional is a family owned Australian hair care and colour brand working to sustainably maintain the global hairdressing industry. The brand commissioned the help of an Italian chemist to concoct a plant-derived formulation, COUTURE SILK, to bring the best from nature and the highest quality pigment to the table. COUTURE SILK colour contains natural ingredients such as green tea, vegetable extracts, natural mineral oils and aloe vera. Blend these plant-based components with Leyton House’s Silk Renewal Complex technology and you have yourself a colour that gives
76 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER
superior results that are both gentle and healthy for the hair. Exclusive to salons, Leyton House offers over 113 intermixable permanent colour choices in the COUTURE SILK collection. These range from highlift warm and cool blondes, warm melting caramel latte and sweet chocolate dusky tones to rich, fiery coppers and reds – all with 100% grey coverage. COUTURE SILK also boasts 30 minute processing time, as each permanent colour has built in simultaneous lift and deposit thanks to the unique technology in Leyton House’s Silk Renewal Complex.
Leyton House Professional is 100% Cruelty Free and a proud member of the PETA (Beauty without Bunnies) Organisation.
Find out more at www.rdr.link/HV027
076_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:13 Page 77
078_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:14 Page 78
THE BIGGEST NIGHT IN AUSTRALIAN HAIRDRESSING: THE ANNUAL AUSTRALIAN HAIR FASHION AWARDS GALA (PRESENTED BY M DIVISION) TOOK PLACE IN SYDNEY A FEW WEEKS BACK BEFORE AN INTIMATE AUDIENCE OF ESTEEMED GUESTS INCLUDING HAIRDRESSERS, BRAND AMBASSADORS, AND MEMBERS OF THE EXTENDED MEDIA; ALL GATHERED TO CELEBRATE THE BEST OF THE BEST IN AUSTRALIAN HAIR, FASHION AND BEAUTY TALENT. This year saw Dyson return as the event’s official Major Partner; an alignment harnessing a shared ethos of innovation, inspiration and integrity. Held inside Sydney’s iconic Luna Park, the 2020 AHFA’s welcomed guests for an evening of creativity, connectivity and communal celebration. Hosted by former Miss Australia, Erin Holland; highlights included a dynamic runway showcase by Dyson’s Styling Ambassadors and musical performances by Sheldon Riley and Alfie Arcuri. For the first time in AHFA history, the anticipated gala was also broadcast digitally, with stateside winners accepting their accolades via live video feed and were the only national hairdressing awards to have taken place in 2020, following initial event postponement due to Covid-19 enforced restrictions. Now in their 28th year, the AHFA’s platform a portfolio of creative, business and digital categories, judged by some of the biggest names in international hairdressing. With hundreds of entries from salons and individuals across Australia, the AHFA’s remain a crucial facet of the hairdressing industry, honouring creativity, passion and innovation year upon year.
The Australian Hairdresser of the Year 2020 (Sponsored by Dyson) was Jamie Furlan of Xiang Hair – here is his winning collection. 씰
078_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:14 Page 79
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 79
PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 16/12/2020 11:26 Page 1
081_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:15 Page 81
PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT
LOVE THE LIVED IN LOOK
Say hello to longer-lasting volume and second-day texture with ELEVEN Australia Dry Finish Texture Spray.
ELEVEN Australia is known the world over for its fantastic line up of texturising pastes, powders and sprays. Whether it’s beachy waves, Hollywood glamour, or high volume, ELEVEN has a texturising product for every style and now the brand has introduced another, specifically for that sought-after, second-day, lived-in look. Dry Finish Texture Spray is a flexible and weightless spray that creates undone, lived-in texture and lasting volume with a soft matte finish. Whether applied to the roots for volume or worked through mid-lengths and ends for instant second-day texture, ELEVEN says is the easiest way to create effortless, undone hair in seconds. The formula contains high-performing humectants, which help the hair to retain moisture and control unwanted frizz. Copolymers also give the hair added grit, while helping to build volume and texture. This product is suitable for all hair types and styles.
Co m
p
ion t i t e WIN
For the chance to win an ELEVEN Australia retail intro worth over for your salon, simply visit this link and sign up!
£1300
“This is the perfect blend of a volumiser and a texturiser to give that lived-in natural look that almost every one of my clients asks for but thinks they can’t achieve on their own. Our Dry Finish Texture Spray is a foolproof formula – just spray it in, build it up and get ‘Instagram girl texture’ in seconds.” Joey Scandizzo, Co-Creative Director of ELEVEN Australia
Find out more at www.rdr.link/HV028 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 81
082_PHR_JAN21_Layout 1 15/12/2020 16:15 Page 82
SPOTLIGHT
bhave to the rescue Reverse even the most damaged hair with bhave’s Rescue hair therapy. Rescue by bhave is a unique in-salon repair treatment containing a potent bioactive keratin so powerful it’s able to penetrate the hair shaft to repair and restore each and every strand from the inside out. It rebuilds the internal structure of the hair, restoring strength and shine rather than superficially coating the hair surface for a temporary fix. Designed for clients who regularly lighten or colour their hair, chemically straighten or perm their hair, or use heated appliances, Rescue repairs and rebuilds extremely damaged hair, promising 80% less damage, reduced breakage, stronger ends and more shine and softness.
NO SCISSORS REQUIRED Simply shampoo and towel dry your client’s hair, then apply Rescue to the most damaged sections and gently massage throughout. Cover the hair and place under heat for approximately 20 minutes. Next, rinse and lightly condition then dry and style the hair as usual. Your client’s hair will be left looking noticeably softer, smoother, shinier and full of volume.
ROAD TO RECOVERY Your client can continue their therapy at home with the award-winning Rescue conditioner and shampoo to further strengthen, nourish and protect their hair at home.
For more information about the bhave rescue range, please visit rdr.link/HV029
82 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER
PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 16/12/2020 11:27 Page 1
PRO HAIR FULL PAGE NEW_Layout 1 26/02/2020 11:33 Page 1