Movers and Shakers
SUMMER 2016 1
TABLE OF CONTENTS-SUMMER 2016
MUSIC MUSTS Hip Hop ConnXion
IN EVERY ISSUE Editors Letter
49
Summer Festivals 57
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10 Summer Concerts
6
10 Summer Albums
LOCAL OPTIONS
Meet Fab
Meet the Team
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60
62
The Apparel Agency
THE SPOTLIGHT
Heaven at the Clare
Can’t Do Nothing
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44
68
Halfstack Bookshelf 74
Meet Dreamfuel 78
Song of Seven 84
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GROOMING/HEALTH Grooming Guide 187
Meet Dr. Pearlman
FASHION & LIFESTYLE
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A look at Green Beauty
KSU Fashion Show
194
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Meet Sujata Gazder 96
Innovative Style Series 104
Looks for Less 106
FEATURES My Art Your Eyes 130
Plus Size Fashion
Meet Monique Boutique
WTF?! Stars Moda
Summer in the City
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120
144
ART & CULTURE DEM Feature 198
EDITORS LAST LOOK N’Spired Thoughts 202
It Can Only Be You 204
152
Meet Mr. Kate 178
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It’s finally summer in the city readers and I welcome you to our latest issue of Halfstack. Thank you for checking us out! This issue is focused on Movers + Shakers. When researching for this theme, we searched far and wide for interesting people, brands and businesses to profile. As always, we will have a Chicago focus, but we are also including national and international profiles of artists, musicians, designers, creatives, photographers, brands and entrepreneurs that are shaking up their industries through innovation in their work.
This concept is so important to me and the current trajectory the
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
team is taking Halfstack in. Each of the people we are featuring in the issue are shaking things up and opposing the system. They are doing things differently than what society expects. They are a part of a sort of underground movement of makers/social activists that are doing more to create work of substance and influence. I often feel that Halfstack doesn’t fit the mold of what a typical lifestyle or fashion publication should be and I don’t feel bad about that. That’s why I always have and most likely always will consider us “indie”. I remember the “zines” of the 90s that were influenced by anarchopunk and DIY culture and how they inspired me to launch my own 4 years ago.
These zines were all about getting content and information freely distributed to the public and highlighting bands, artists and culture vultures that weren’t getting the attention they deserved from the mainstream media. They had a vision, a creative stance and a DGAF attitude about what the establishment thought of them. While we aren’t photocopying anymore as the digital age has made it so much easier to develop and get our work out there, the concepts and vision behind our brand still stays very much true to the ethos of the zine. It’s been amazing to see zines grow and develop. I look to
JENNIFER M. LEZAN-VEGUILLA EDITOR IN CHIEF & FOUNDER
publications such as: Giant Robot, Dazed & Confused, Bust, Bitch, Cometbus, Doris, Brainscan, The Miscreant, and Maximum RocknRoll as inspiration for what I hope to grow Halfstack into. They all had humble beginnings and despite their growth, they still stay true to who they always have been in terms of the content they share.
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This issue has some incredible stories that are sure
Louis spotlights DreamFuel, a new type of crowdsourcing kick-
to inspire and interest you about movers and shakers
starter-like platform for emerging athletes and sports teams to
in Chicago and beyond. I am opening the issue with
fundraise and engage with the community that surrounds them.
a feature on Chicago’s own local fashion institution:
Jen Oquendo share’s a great round up of books in the Halfstack
The Apparel Agency. I interview Nichole Rairigh, the
Bookshelf that are perfect for your summer reading. I close out the
CEO and founder behind the brand. She shares some
section with an interview from Eric Blomquist, founder of Enlight-
wonderful insight about her time in the fashion indus-
ened games about their first game release: Song of Seven.
try in Chicago, why she went from being a designer to helping other designers launch their labels and
Liv shares the latest talent from Kent State University fashion de-
what she finds interesting about the evolution of the
partment’s annual fashion show: Crescendo and Teresa has your
fashion industry over the last 10 years. It was won-
rundown of looks for less! This issue’s cover features fashion from
derful connecting with Nichole and I am excited to
Monique Boutique – a shop based in the Shoppes at Northbridge.
be partnering up with The Apparel Agency over the
Our photography team: Laura Lopez & Shirin Koril collaborated
coming months to bring you some insight to behind
with Chicago based photographer: Diante Thomas to execute over
the scenes of running a fashion brand through some
cover shoot. He’s best known for his work on Instagram under the
great new content on our YouTube Channel.
handle: MyArtYourEyes. Laura has a wonderful feature on his journey developing his craft and insight into his creativity.
What Summer issue wouldn’t be complete without a robust music section. Jennie Velasco shares the jour-
I had the opportunity to re-connect with YouTube DIY Diva: Mr.
ney of her mentor and the Chicago dance icon known
Kate to learn more about what’s in store for this upcoming year as
as Suave. His journey wasn’t easy, but he made it work
her channel continues to grow. Danielle has a great assortment of
and continues to inspire young people all over the
beauty and grooming features that will keep you feeling fresh all
world to make an impact with their craft. Pearl has a
summer long. We close out this issue with a spotlight on Divine
great round up of festival, concerts and must have al-
Expressions of the Ministering Arts Dance School and two beauti-
bums to check out. Thom has a special feature about
fully inspirational pieces from Reyisha Lindsay and Jen Gordon in
New York based music producer: Fab Dupont and his
the Editor’s Last Look.
latest endeavor - PureMix.net. Summer in Chicago is amazing. Find joy in yourselves, find inspiraIn the spotlight section, I was moved to showcase
tion in these pages, stories and through these people.
an organization launched by Milana Vayntrub, best known for her recurring role in commercials for At&t.
As always, thank you for reading!
After a trip to Greece, she stayed to volunteer with
Jennifer M. Lezan
the refugees. She created Can’t Do Nothing because she wanted to give people a simple and accessible way to learn about issues and make change for good in the world.
JENNIFER M. LEZAN - EDITOR IN CHIEF
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EDITOR IN CHIEF
PHOTOGRAPHY TEAM
jennifer lezan creative director @halfstackmag
LAURA LOPEZ lead photographer
@theartistmeansnothing
diante thomas
perry fish
lead photographer @myartyoureyes
lead photographer @alluringchicago
SHIRIN KORIL lead photographer @pickaposephotograpy
pearl shin photojournalist @bigdipper4
HALFSTACK EDITORIAL
meet the
teresa cutrera fashion editor
team 6
& blogger
yaritza ramocki set stylist
carolyn portner west coast correspondant
jennie velasco set stylist/editor
thom olson blogger & online digital editor
STAFF WRITERS
& DESIGNERS KALI KOLLER
Creative & Graphics Designer
SAMMY SITHIPONG
Creative & Graphics Designer
KIRA LENZI
KANDACE MCVICKAR
Creative & Graphics Designer
Creative & Graphics Designer
JAMIE L. BREEDEN
Creative & Graphics Designer
DANIELLE HAZEKAMP Sr. Beauty Editor
AIRA LHEIZ AQUINO
Creative & Graphics Intern
STELLA QUIMBY Sr. Fashion Editor
STAFF BLOGGERS IESHA CARTER Staff Blogger/Youtuber
DENISE GUEVARA Staff Blogger/Youtuber
REYNISHA LINDSAY Staff Writer
OLIVIA LEMLEY Staff Writer/Blogger
NICOLE STYLES Staff Blogger
TRACI CICARELLI Staff Blogger/Youtuber
ELAINE RAU
ROB SAMUELSON
TARIQ ALSAUD
Digital Blogger
Digital Blogger
Staff Writer/Blogger
Catie Coscino Staff Writer/Blogger
JENNIFER OQUENDO Staff Writer/Blogger
KATHLEEN LEIFFERS Staff Blogger
Andre Thompson Staff Blogger
KARLI BUTLER Staff Writer/Blogger
JENNIFER GORDON Staff Writer/Blogger
Louis Vasseur Staff Blogger
DWIGHT BEJEC Social Media Director
MICHELLE LANDRIAULT Staff Blogger/Youtuber
PETER JAMES Staff Blogger
AVANTE EDMONDS Staff Blogger
EMILY EHARDT Staff Blogger
OLGA IVANIDI Staff Blogger/Youtuber
HALEY NORDHUES Staff Blogger
JAILYNN MENIFEE Staff Blogger
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OUTFIT: FERMENTED FRUIT MAKEUP: DANIELLE HAZEKAMP PHOTO: LAURA LOPEZ CREATIVE DIR: JEN LEZAN STYLISTS: JENNIE VELASCO YARITZA RAMOCKI MODEL: JENNA ROACH ACCESSORIES: TRUE PARTNERS IN CRAFT
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Local Options 34
The Democracy of Fashion at The Apparel Agency: Launching a Label During the Age of Technology
WRITTEN BY: JENNIFER LEZAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY: PEARL SHIN
Accessibility to the fashion industry has opened tremendously due
to the advances of the Internet. Technology, the Internet, Etsy and YouTube have all helped to level the playing field. People can teach themselves to sew or learn pattern making by watching YouTube videos or finding tutorials online. They can branch out and sell their wares for minimal costs without the overhead of a brick and mortar shop through e-commerce outlets such as Shopify and Big Cartel. Many small shops are now flooding the market to compete with major brands in a major way.
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What’s interesting is that when one looks at the history behind costume, Ready-to-Wear only truly began to take hold during the 1930s and left a huge mark during the 1980s. Before these time frames, most people still made their own clothing from the use of paper patterns that were introduced and patented by Butterick during the mid 1800’s. Before that, people were making custom fit items through traditional skills passed on from generation to generation. Today, mass produced garments that are readily available overwhelm the fashion market. Not many people know how to sew and the thought of having to make your own clothing seems a ridiculous
and laborious effort. Yet, as the craft and grow, more and more people found the idea of creating a clothing line at the forefront of their mind. In the past 30 years, if you didn’t have a background in fashion or some sort of connection to the industry – the opportunity to launch a fashion line was non-existent. Having some sort of knowledge of the industry is an incredibly vital part to seeing success. Yet, today, people with just a simple idea and set of goals can launch a Kickstarter Campaign and if enough people believe in their vision and connect with their goals, they can crowdfund a brand into existence. Whether or not this is good for the industry is a question for another time. Just as trained and educated journalists of the world worried about bloggers taking over jobs and front row seats at fashion week, the reality is that trained designers and fashion professionals have a slew of new talent to be aware of.
“So, where do they start? How can they start?” It is within this fascinating intersection of fashion, business and e-commerce technology that young, fresh and innovative manufacturers and web platforms have found opportunities to serve a new market. Ambitious digital entrepreneurs have found a way to service the growing industry of new makers looking to launch labels with a focus on local sourcing, sustainable and US based manufacturing. Startup
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companies that want to make new products for a customer base often have a hard time finding the suppliers and manufacturers they need to get their idea off the ground. In today’s market, many of the founders behind these labels may not even know how to sew or make a pattern, let alone understand the concept of designing or knowing how to negotiate with suppliers. So, where do they start? How can they start? The industry that has been so closed off, to those not in the know, for so many years has finally begun to enter the digital age. In 2012, Matthew Burnett and Tanya Menendez set out to change this idea by redefining how companies get their products off the ground with Maker’s Row. Makers Row is a huge online index of US-based factories specializing in sample making, tooling, sewing, and manufacturing. Then, there are sites like Startupfashion.com and small batch manufacturers like Victory Stitch Manufacturing in Florida that focus on working with indie designers who are small, but growing. These innovative brands connect these creative entrepreneurs with the suppliers and manufacturers that can take their idea from prototype to full production. Yet, what about those makers who don’t know where to start, but have an idea that they want to take to the next level?
In steps Chicago based company, The Apparel Agency. The Apparel Agency founder, Nichole Rairigh, saw an opportunity to offer fashion entrepreneurs the break they needed to take their ideas to the next level through her expertise and connections. As a veteran fashion industry professional, she has a keen understanding of the needs of a start up fashion brand. She ran a kidswear line that was carried in 50 stores across the United States before she branched off into offering her skills in the service industry. The Apparel Agency offers innovative solutions for apparel and accessory brands worldwide. The company offers a range of services that can be customized for businesses large and small who are ready to see their brand evolve. From concepting, advising, sourcing, creative and technical design to production, The Apparel Agency offers startups and established businesses alike the skills necessary to bring an idea to live. Halfstack had the chance to visit The Apparel Agency studios this Spring to learn more about what they do, talk with Nichole about the evolution of the industry and get a behind the scenes view into the work that goes into developing a collection. Read on for the full interview with Nicole.
“As a veteran fashion industry professional, she has a keen understanding of the needs of a start up fashion brand”. 37
offer new collections every month based on current market trends and allow clients to “build their line” from our pre-developed styles. The garments are delivered “tagless” so the client I studied fashion design at Columbia can add their own label and hangtag College Chicago and entered into the and we offer a range of fabrications apparel industry with my own children’s and colors to choose from. We also clothing line in 2002. After successfully encourage clients to customize a selling to over 200 retailers worldwide bit further with their own materials, including Zappos and Nordstrom, I colorways and/or design tweaks for decided my passion was more in the a small development fee. We are so back end of the business (development) excited to get this off the ground and not the front end (wholesale). I retired cannot wait to fill our factories with the line in 2008, having built up a very orders as well as provide a muchstrong network of resources in Chicago, needed solution to small businesses and took on consulting work for other that want to have a line, but who brands I had met along the way. This cannot afford 100% customized quickly turned into a bigger plan for development. providing development and production management services to the apparel 3. For so many years entering the industry and in 2010 I launch The fashion industry or launching a line Apparel Agency! was only accessible to a select few, how has TAA worked to break down 2. Can you explain what you all do at these barriers and in what ways has the Apparel Agency and how you work technology played into the evolution of with local businesses? the fashion industry as we see it? We provide pre-production This is a great question. Our core development services to companies mission is to break down the barriers and individuals who want to develop a for small businesses and brands, clothing line, or are in need of services providing high quality development prior to production for their existing and management services, bridging line. We’ve also built up our Chicago the gap between designers and the factory network to provide small production floor! For the last 6 years it batch manufacturing to our clients as has been my goal to build a company well as a private label-manufacturing that I would have used when I first program called “The Line”.The Line is started my clothing line. What we’ve officially launching in May/June 2016 done is create a process that is easy with 4 collections of Women’s, Men’s for anyone to understand and a team and Children’s Ready-to-wear and of experts that deliver results the right Athleticwear. way, the first time. In this business there’s no time for a learning curve – This is a perfect solution for local especially if your budgets are limited. business (and worldwide) where we 1. Nichole, can you share a bit on your background, experience, career journey and what led you to launch The Apparel Agency?
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We eliminate that learning curve and provide a secure environment for our clients to launch, grow and sustain their brand. 4. Did you always know you wanted to be an entrepreneur, do you feel you were prepared when you first launched and how have you grown as a business owner? Outside of working in restaurants (which I loved) to put myself through college, I have always been an entrepreneur, and I couldn’t imagine it any other way. I never feel like I’m fully
prepared for anything, but I believe that’s what keeps me nimble enough to get through the difficult times without being so rigid that I break. Growth is constant and I love to look back on the previous year (or years) to reflect on our growth and success – to give thanks for the good and the bad, as both are what make me a strong leader and a fearless entrepreneur. Each and every client, inquiry, team member and more have given me a deeper insight into who I am as a person and who I want to be as a business. Going into our sixth year I feel we have
“Stay true to your creative self, start slow and stay grounded – and find your true passion in this industry.”
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reached a plateau where we know who we are and what we have to offer. I look forward to continuing to serve designers and brands alike and grow our offerings even further. 5. How does the The Apparel Agency team work to shake up the creative industry you all work in and innovate when it comes to your brand, your products and your work? We are all adrenaline junkies here! We love the hustle of this industry and you’ll often see us at our best when things are slammed. It’s during that time that we all come together to find solutions which may not have been thought of before. It’s this drive to
always do THE BEST for our clients that keeps us on our toes. I also continue to find ways to give more accessible solutions to clients – breaking down the barriers for them to get to the production floor. One example is our DIY program called “The Shop”, where we provide “athome” solutions to our DIY designers. From industry tools, templates and pattern blocks to cool merchandise – we want to be sure everyone has the ability to develop their dreams, no matter who they are, or where they are at in their development process.
“ We are all adrenaline junkies here!“
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6. Have you faced any obstacles along common misconception). And maybe the way? If so, how did you over come? most often we see a bit of resistance to the development process (and costs) in So many I cannot even begin to fit general. them all in! From skepticism in my network of factories – imagine they Often times, people don’t understand are so used to partnering with one that there is a significant amount of money and time that goes into big company and running the same production over and over again. Now, developing the right product, it doesn’t we come in and give them new projects just happen overnight and someone weekly, building up their machinery and has to be responsible for either the training their labor on anything from costs upfront, or the costs at the end knits to hand beading. And the learning of production when things don’t go as planned because development was curve on the client side is always a skipped. We have addressed a lot of challenge we have to be conscious of. these pain points by creating our 6-step We’re often faced with concerns about process which we focus on through pricing “when I can go to China and get it for pennies on the dollar” (a very our development and production plans called “The Plans”. After servicing over 200 brands in 6 years we have been able to standardize the deliverables required for success on both the designer and factory sides, effectively creating a turnkey process which also gives us the ability to provide affordable pricing and proven success! 7. What is the hardest part of running TAA and what is the part that motivates you each and every day?
”I started from scratch and have pioneered a path, so to speak, constantly striving to find ways to improve our brand and our partners for the benefit of our clients.” The most challenging part of running a small business is managing the growth.
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Knowing when to take risks, and on what, and when to hold back until the timing is better. Also, we are a young company ourselves. Despite my being in the industry for 15+ years (not to age myself!) this is not a business that is on every corner where I could look to their model for a foundation. I started from scratch and have pioneered a path, so to speak, constantly striving to find ways to improve our brand and our partners for the benefit of our clients. Yet, each day when I walk into our beautiful, industrial offices and I see patterns printing in the workroom, machines humming in the sample room, and materials on the design tables in the studio – I get a thrill that I never could have imagined. It’s an honor to be a partner with each of our clients and I’m inspired and motivated to keep giving them my all! 8. Where do you hope to see The Apparel Agency in the next 5 years and what are you doing to get it there?
“This is also a great program for people who are just out of school as they get to learn the ropes without the risks of having their own freelance business.” I would love to see our DIY program soar, adding video tutorials and workshops for aspiring designers, patternmakers and sewers. We are also launching a Consultant Network where we will offer “The Plans” to regional
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reps (consultants, patternmakers, designers) so that they can provide their clients with a “full package” solution. This is also a great program for people who are just out of school as they get to learn the ropes without the risks of having their own freelance business. And last, I see our factory partners thriving with our production work and having the ability to confidently keep their doors open to domestic manufacturing, providing job opportunities to American people and bringing back a skilled labor workforce in apparel. 9. Why did you choose to remain in Chicago when launching this brand, has it helped or hindered you in your business growth? Well, I’d love to have a more romantic story behind this, but the truth is I stayed here for my family – my personal family and my factory families. When I retired my clothing line there were a lot of people affected that I did not expect to have an impact on; people who worked hard for me and made sacrifices to build my brand alongside me. I saw this dedication and their incredible skill, which was being marginalized by offshoring, and I made a promise to myself that I would do whatever I could to bring them more work despite not continuing with my label. I have not given up on that promise and I don’t expect to do so anytime soon.
10. If you could give any one bit of advice to young people interested in pursuing a career in fashion or launching their own business – what would it be? Stay true to your creative self, start slow and stay grounded – and find your true passion in this industry. There are a lot of avenues you can pursue – start to dig around, think outside the box and follow your dreams… but be sure to learn how to budget and sell your line –there is no business without sales! 11. Finally, where can we learn more about The Apparel Agency? We are launching a brand new website, featuring “The Shop” DIY tools, templates and more, “The Line” private label manufacturing for small businesses, and “The Plans” development and production services for new and existing brands worldwide in May 2016! Check us out before then at www.theapparelagency.com and drop us a line to let us know how you’re doing in your business!
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