(EN) Gwangju News May 2017 #183

Gwangju and South Jeolla International Magazine I May 2017 Issue #183 I Lessons of 5.18: Hyedang Seunim Reflects on a Life of Teaching

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Letter from the Editor

M May 2017, Issue No. 183 Published: May 2, 2017 Cover Photo: Lorryn Smit Cover Art & Design: Joe Wabe

THE EDITORIAL TEAM Publisher Editor-in-Chief Managing Editors Online Editor Creative Advisor Layout Editor Photo Editor Chief Proofreader Copy Editors Proofreaders Researchers

Dr. Shin Gyonggu Dr. David Shaffer Kelsey Rivers, Anastasia Traynin Nathan Fulkerson Joe Wabe Karina Prananto Lorryn Smit Eden Jones Joey Nunez, Gabi Nygaard, Kelsey Rivers, Anastasia Traynin Nguyen Huong (Sen), Eden Jones, Teri Lyn, Paolo Mondragon, Kelsey Rivers Jung Yujin, Kim Miyeon, Lee Hyojeong, Nguyen Huong (Sen)

Gwangju News is the first local English magazine in Korea, first published in 2001. Each monthly issue covers local and regional issues, with a focus on the roles and activities of the international residents and local English-speaking communities.

Copyright by Gwangju International Center. All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by this copyright may be reproduced in any form or by any means – graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise – without the written consent of the publisher.

Registration No. 광주광역시 라. 00145 (ISSN 2093-5315) Registration Date: February 22, 2010 Printed by Join Adcom 조인애드컴 (+82)-62-367-7702

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May, the month of remembrance. The spring of exuberance and excitation has the potential to turn into exasperation, extremism, and excessiveness.

Those of us who were in Gwangju in May of 1980 are acutely aware of this and when thinking of May, recall first the 5.18 Uprising. Peek inside our pages to learn what Tim Shorrock, an Uprising expert, has been exploring to extract the truth of the 1980 incident. Hyedang Seunim also exposes his Uprising experiences. And yet another remembrance is reported: that of the Sewol ferry, through a screening of a new documentary.

And this May is election month. Our second feature details the top five candidates of the quickly called presidential election, following the removal of Park Geun-hye from office.

Oh yes, there is more, much more. Everything from cooking pig’s feet soup, “Healing Kimchi,” and brewing craft beer to meokbang broadcasting, reviewing The Vegetarian, and everything “good for health.” From learning Korean to teaching English.

From Damyang and Yeongam to Tajikistan and Uzbekistan. We hope that this issue of the Gwangju News contributes to your enjoyment of May, your enjoyment of spring.

David Shaffer Editor-in-Chief

May 2017

Special thanks to the City of Gwangju and all of our sponsors.

May, the month of Buddha’s birth. Our cover story features Hyedang Seunim, a monk whose path to Buddhism is quite unique. “Lost in Gwangju” highlights the temples around the province, which are sure to be at their brightest during this holiday period. And our op-ed piece suggests how one might be able to attain Buddhist enlightenment (bhodi) through artificial intelligence!

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Gwangju News is published by Gwangju International Center Jungang-ro 196-beon-gil 5 (Geumnam-ro 3-ga), Dong-gu, Gwangju 61475, South Korea Tel: (+82)-62-226-2733~34 Fax: (+82)-62-226-2731

as much as possible.

ay! The month of exuberance. Spring is in full swing, and so is the Gwangju News. The keyboards of our writers and editors have been busy all month bringing you another informative issue. Many things are happening this month, and we try to bring to you

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Contents May 2017 #183

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May 2017

GWANGJU NEWS 03. Gwangju City News 04. Upcoming Events: May 52. Community Board COMMUNITY 36. Yeongam Wangin Culture Festival 46. Expat Living: Banking Service

ARTS & CULTURE 20. Photo Essay: Reality Bites 24. Photos of the Month 44. Book Review: The Vegetarian

by Han Kang 45. Movie Review: Seopyeonje

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FEATURE 07. Lessons of 5.18: Hyedang Seunim Reflects on a Life of Teaching 10. Tim Shorrock at the 5.18 Achives: A Two-Month Project in Gwangju 12. After the Sewol: Two English Filmmakers Take on a Korean Tragedy 15. Breaking Down the Election: Who to Watch EDUCATION 47. Talk to Me in Korean: Banking 48. KOTESOL: Leadership for the EFL Teacher?

TRAVEL 18. The Tale of the Temples: Tranquility, Serenity, and Peacefulness 26. Around Korea: Damyang 38. Follow Our Silk Road – Part 2: Tajikistan and Uzbekistan FOOD & DRINKS 29. Meokbang (Eating Broadcast): A Modern Korean Way of Sharing 30. Where to Eat: Mac Bottle Shop 32. Kitchen Stories: Oritang and Pig’s Feet Soup 42. Gwangju Writes: The Healing Kimchi

OPINION 50. AI and the Buddha

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Gwangju City

News

Compiled by Jung Yujin

Local festivals being delayed or canceled over worries of violating election law in the face of the Presidential Election in May As the 19th Presidential Election is set for May 9, festivals and events scheduled to be held around that period have been put off or canceled in Gwangju.

Bitgoeul City Tour provides special tour around Gwangju Bitgoeul City Tour Bus will be in operation around the city beginning May 25.

The bus will run until the end of November this year every Saturday and Sunday, nine times a day, at intervals of 50 minutes. With one ticket, a passenger can get on and off at any designated stop and tour around the tourist attractions in the city at their leisure. The bus circulates the city to and from Gwangju Songjeong Station.

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Asiana Airlines to adjust schedule for Gwangju Asiana Airlines will reduce the number of flights between Gwangju and Gimpo, which have been creating a deficit, while the company will increase the number of flights between Gwangju and Jeju.

According to the airline company, it will cut its Gwangju– Gimpo line flights from three to two roundtrips per day beginning in April. Cancelled schedules are the ones departing Gimpo at 12:00 p.m. and Gwangju at 1:40 p.m.

In its place, Asiana will add one more roundtrip to the Gwangju–Jeju line. The Gwangju–Jeju line will now have five roundtrips a day beginning April 7. The newly launched flights will be departing Jeju at 5:30 p.m. and Gwangju at 7:10 p.m.

May 2017

Reservations can be made on the websites 광주시티투 어.com, written in Hangeul, or gwangjucitytour.com, written in English. Tickets are also available for on-site purchase once you get on the bus. Ticket prices for adults and teenagers are 3,000 won while tickets for elementary school students are sold at 2,000 won.

Public election law bans any kind of event, including lectures, briefings, public hearings, and festivals that can affect an election for 60 days prior to that election.

Jeollanam-do has 38 festivals scheduled for April and May, and they will all be held as planned.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Major stops include Kimdaejung Convention Center, Gwangju City Hall, U-Square Bus Terminal, Joongoe Park, May 18 National Cemetery, Gwangju Lake, Choongjangsa, Namgwangju Station, Yangrim-dong, Asia Culture Center, and Daein Art Market.

Gwangju’s Gwangsan-gu District is now having trouble setting a specific date for its wheat festival which is usually held at the end of May. Namgu’s Gossaum Festival is also facing difficulties. The festival, which was originally scheduled for February, was delayed due to the spread of avian influenza and now faces another postponement until after the election. Seo-gu has canceled Seo-gu People’s Day scheduled for May 1.

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Upcoming

Events May

Compiled by Kim Miyeon and Nguyen Huong (Sen)

GWANGJU NEWS

Damyang Bamboo Festival

Located within a forest of 2.4 square kilometers of bamboo, this festival is full of activities celebrating the beauty and functions of the bamboo plant. More active visitors can test their skills during some of the festival’s scheduled river sports, such as log rafting and water bicycling. After working up an appetite, visitors can please their palate with some of Damyang’s famous cuisines and other world food items featured at the Cultural Experience Center. For additional sightseeing opportunities, visit some of the other attractions in the area, such as the Damyang Soswaewon, Damyang Gwanbangjerim, Damyang Juknokwon, and Metasequoia Road.

Dates: May 2-7 Location: Damyang Bamboo Forest, Damyang, Jeollanam-do Admission: Free Website: http://www.bamboofestival.co.kr Telephone: 061-380-3150~2

Boseong Green Tea Festival, the largest green tea festival in Korea, takes place at the Boseong Green Tea Plantation, a well-known filming location and tourist site. Visitors to the festival will get a chance to pick tea leaves, make green tea and green tea snacks, learn traditional tea-drinking etiquette, and take part in a tea photo contest.

Dates: May 3-7 Locations: Korean Tea Cultural Park and Boseong Tea Field, Boseong, Jeollanam-do Admission: Adults 4,000 won, youth and seniors 3,000 won, children under 6 free (admission to Boseong Tea Field) Website: http://dahyang.boseong.go.kr/index.boseong Telephone: 061-850-5885

Gwangju Fringe Festival

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

May 2017

The 7th International Rose Festival, Gokseong

Boseong Green Tea Festival

Gokseong-gun, famous for its train village, holds this annual event at the Rose Park, located within the train village complex. Rose varieties from different parts of the world under the three themes of love, scent, and dream will be on display during the festival at 1004 Rose Park.

Dates: May 19-28 Location: Train Village, Seomjin River, Gokseong, Jeollanam-do Admission: Adults 3,000 won, children and seniors 2,500 won (admission to Train Village) Website: http://www.gokseong.go.kr/tour/?pid=103 Telephone: 061-360-8252

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Under the theme “May Is Freedom,” the Gwangju Fringe Festival offers a place where participants can satisfy their five senses by setting themselves free from daily tasks and burdens. The festival has a range of cultural, artistic and touristic exhibitions.

Dates: Already open and continuing through December 16 Location: May 18 Democracy Square, Geumnam-ro, Chungjang-ro, and Art Street Admission: Free Website: http://fringefestival.kr/ Telephone: 062-224-0323

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5 Dance, Mega Mendung Performance

Mendung means “rain cloud” in Indonesian. Choreographed by Fitri Setyaningsih from Indonesia, Mega Mendung is a contemporary dance performance. The Asia Culture Center production features novel dance movements and one-of-a-kind stage settings.

Dates: May 20 (Sat) 7:30 pm and May 21 (Sun) 5 pm Location: Theater 1, Asia Culture Center, 38 Munhwajeondang-ro, Dong-gu, Gwangju Admission: 20,000 won (Online booking is available) Website: https://www.acc.go.kr Telephone: 1899-5566

Chosun University Rose Festival

LEE UFAN (Ha Jeong Woong Art Museum Grand Opening)

To commemorate the grand opening of Ha Jeong Woong’s art museum, this Lee Woo Hwan exhibition, which is the core of the Ha Jeong Woong collection, will be displayed. This collaboration sheds light on humanity through this exhibition, with special support from the Gwangju City Museum of Art. Dates: Already open and continuing through June 25 Location: Ha Jeong Woong Art Museum Branch of Gwangju City Museum of Art, 1165 Sangmu-daero, Seo-gu, Gwangju Admission: Free Website: http://artmuse.gwangju.go.kr/ Telephone: 062-613-5390

Interrupted Survey: Fractured Modern Mythologies Exhibition

Dates: Already open and continuing through May 31 Location: Chosun University Rose Garden, 309-1 Pilmun-daero, Dong-gu, Gwangju Admission:Free Website: http://www2.chosun.ac.kr Telephone: 062-230-6223

Dates: Already open and continuing through September 3 Weekday Operations: Tuesday through Friday, and Sundays: 10 am to 6 pm Wednesdays and Saturdays: 10 am to 7 pm. Closed on Mondays Location: Space 4, Asia Culture Center, 38 Munhwajeondang-ro, Dong-gu, Gwangju Admission: Regular tickets 7,000 won, student tickets (ages 13–24) 5,000 won, children’s tickets (ages 6–12) 3,000 won Website: https://www.acc.go.kr Telephone:1899-5566

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May 2017

With the theme of Asian Modernity, this exhibition showcases the rapid economic and technological development in Asia over the last decades, along with the region’s previous conflicts from pre-modern times, Western colonialism, the Cold War, and the formation of modern nation-states.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Starting on May 1, the Chosun University Rose Garden offers a collection of 18,000 roses of 277 species. A total of 5,299 square meters will be covered with all colors and shapes of roses. Any resident living in Gwangju and Jeollanam-do, or elsewhere, is welcome to relax and recharge at the Rose Garden.

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GWANGJU THEATER

62 Chungjang-no 5-ga, Dong-gu, Gwangju (two blocks behind NC WAVE) TICKETS: 8,000 won INFORMATION: 062-224-5858

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

May 2017

PRIDE 런던 프라이드 Genres: Comedy, Drama Director: Matthew Warchus Film Length: 120 minutes Starring: Massimo Troisi, Philippe Noiret, Maria Grazia Cucinotta Based on a true story, the film depicts a group of lesbian and gay activists who raised money to help families affected by the British miners’ strike in 1984, at the outset of what would become the Lesbians and Gays Support the Miners campaign. The alliance was unlike any seen before and was ultimately successful.

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DENIAL 나는 부정한다 Genre: Drama Director: Mick Jackson Film Length: 110 minutes Starring: Rachel Weisz, Tom Wilkinson, Timothy Spall The movie is based on Deborah Lipstadt’s book History on Trial: My Day in Court with a Holocaust Denier, in which Lipstadt, a Holocaust scholar, was sued by a Holocaust denier for defamation.

THE UNKNOWN GIRL 언노운 걸 Genre: Drama Directors: Luc Dardenne, Jean-Pierre Dardenne Film Length: 106 minutes Starring: Adele Haenel, Olivier Bonnaud The movie tells the story of a medical doctor who sets out to find the identity of an unknown young woman who died after she was refused surgery.

THE SALESMAN 세일즈맨 Genre: Drama Director: Asghar Farhadi Film Length: 123 minutes Starring: Marianne Stoger, Margaritha Pissarek The movie is about a married couple who perform Arthur Miller’s play Death of a Salesman on stage when the wife is assaulted. Her husband attempts to determine the identity of the attacker while she struggles to cope with post-traumatic stress.

NERUDA 여자의 일생 Genre: Drama Director: Pablo Larrain Film Length: 107 minutes Starring: Gael Garcia Bernal, Luis Gnecco Popular poet and Communist Senator Pablo Neruda opposes the administration of President Gabriel González Videla and denounces his brutal anticommunist repression in a speech in the National Congress in 1948. Threatened with arrest, he goes underground. Refusing to live the life of a fugitive, he taunts the government authorities by appearing in public venues or leaving evidence of his movements.

* Synopses excerpted from Wikipedia.

For more information, please visit: cafe.naver.com/cinemagwangju

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GWANGJU NEWS

Lessons of 5.18:

Written by Anastasia Traynin Photographs by Lorryn Smit and courtesy of Hyedang Seunim

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why he remained silent. An Army interpreter for five years, the teacher was one of few people in Gwangju with good English skills.

Following his student’s admonishment, he took the reporters to a place where

dead bodies lay. With the Korean media blocked from entering the city, it was up to the foreign press to let the world know of the truth behind the May 18 Gwangju Uprising. Though embarrassed to be alive and speaking in the presence of the silent dead, the

May 2017

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t the Jeollanamdo Provincial Hall, where members of the Gwangju Citizens’ Army gathered, a group of foreign reporters stood, unable to understand Korean.

A student turned to his high school English teacher and asked him

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Hyedang Seunim Reflects on a Life of Teaching

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8 teacher showed the way.

After May 27, 1980, when the Korean Army retook Gwangju, teachers who had joined the Uprising would be heavily persecuted, some imprisoned and beaten. Two of the teacher’s students pushed him to escape.

Putting his life’s work on hold, he went into the mountains, first to Yeongam’s Wolchulsan and then on to an eight-year sojourn in Jirisan.

It was here, at Baekja Zen Temple, that English teacher Hwang Seungwoo started his next journey as the English-speaking Buddhist monk, Hyedang Seunim.

“There are two kinds of monks. One is without family. I was the second kind. I embraced all my family.”

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May 2017

The eldest of four brothers, Hwang supported his younger siblings, Byeong-woo, Ji-woo, Gwang-woo, paying their university tuition fees. He grieved as two of them were arrested and jailed during the Uprising. Third brother Hwang Ji-woo, who also became a famous monk and a poet, finished university in Seoul in the normal length of time, while youngest brother Hwang Gwang-woo took twenty years to complete his education.

Now in his 80th year, Hwang lives in a quiet house on a hill, next to Daeheungsa Temple’s Buddhist Institute in his home county of Haenam. After going into the hospital for a prolonged illness in 2016, the monk has lost some of his spoken English, yet his memories seem to remain fresh. On a table in the middle of his living room, he has copies of his two Koreanlanguage autobiographies, 1994’s well-known Seunim, How Do You Speak English So Well? and the more recently completed How Do We Live Our Life? Looking back, he has no regrets.

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▲ Top: The four Hwang brothers, with Hyedang Seunim second from right ▲ Bottom: Hyedang Seunim during his visiting professorship at the University of Pennsylvania

“If I weren’t a monk, I would be nothing other than a teacher. In another life, I would be an English teacher also.”

As a monk, Hwang has traveled the world and given lectures on Zen and Buddhism, with visiting professor appointments at the University of Pennsylvania, the University of Sydney, and the University of New Zealand, Wellington. Despite his high profile as a religious figure, he maintains a detachment from Buddhist teachings.

“At first, I was eager to learn Buddhism,” Hwang said. “At the time, it was the main religion in Korea. It was everything. But over time, little by little,

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result of this solitude. Looking ahead to the upcoming May 9 election, however, he firmly believes that no matter who wins, the country will improve and remain at peace, with no firing of missiles or war on the horizon.

Within many Buddhist countries, including Korea, monks have played a vital role in democracy movements, yet Hwang does not perceive this to be any kind of special religious calling.

For young Koreans and foreigners living in the country, Hwang offers the same advice: “Before taking any action, think more deeply.”

“Monks are part of society. As members of the community, they share all the joy and tragedies together.”

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“See Korean people more deeply.

Whether we are born in America, China, or Japan. We are all brothers.

We are all human.”

Realizing that he is on the same path as all others, Hwang leaves behind

THE AUTHOR

Anastasia Traynin (Ana) is the coeditor of Gwangju News magazine.

She has been a contributor to the magazine since fall 2013 and has been living in Gwangju since spring of that year. After teaching for three years at Hanbitt High School, she became a GIC coordinator in May 2016. She has passions for Korean social movements, alternative education, live music, languages, and writing.

May 2017

Since the 2012 election of Park Geunhye and his prediction of Korea’s current political situation, Hwang has felt ashamed, cutting off all contact with friends from abroad and spending his days alone in reflection.

The second autobiography is one

Over time, he says, the world has become one, and people can easily become friends with each other. He hopes that those coming from abroad will be able to push past the language and cultural barriers.

his teaching and his writings, infused with the lessons of the Gwangju 5.18 spirit.

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things changed. I met a person from a country in the Pacific, and he gave me a book. I studied many religions and realized they are all equal.

Nowadays, [I think] every religion is the same. There is one purpose, to be a good person.”

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10 In Town

Tim Shorrock

at the 5.18 Archives: A Two-Month Project in Gwangju

FEATURE

Written by Anastasia Traynin Photos courtesy of Tim Shorrock

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

May 2017

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here are few Americans with as much inside knowledge about the May 18 Gwangju Uprising as Washington, D.C.-based veteran investigative journalist Tim Shorrock. Shaped by his early witnessing of the April 19, 1960 Uprising as a child of missionaries living in Seoul, Shorrock’s career has spanned over three decades.

Though not on the ground during May 1980, his three extensive stays in Gwangju during the following decade led to his use of the U.S. Freedom of Information Act to obtain nearly 4,000 declassified government documents related to Gwangju that revealed the U.S. role in crushing the Uprising. Spanning the years 1994–2006 the project was first revealed in a series of articles in 1996, causing furor in South Korea.

Shorrock’s work earned him the title of honorary citizen of Gwangju, presented by Major Yoon Jang-hyun during the May 21, 2015 ceremony at the 5.18 Democracy Square.

After visiting the city again last year as part of a group of foreign journalists who had reported on the Uprising, a plan was hatched to integrate his documents into the 5.18 Archives, a UNESCO World Heritage site in downtown Gwangju. From April to May 2017, Shorrock is back in Gwangju, busy at work on the archival project. Gwangju News caught up with the journalist at his office in the

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Archives building.

“One of the biggest questions I still have is why did the U.S. decide on May 22?” Shorrock said. “Why did they go for the military solution rather than negotiations or wait it out? Why did they consider it such a threat to the Korean military and also to American interests? When you look at these documents and reports, you start putting it together, what might have led to that kind of decision. What I’ve seen a little bit is that some of the reports were completely false. I hope to find some more documents that might help us to understand.”

Working with a 5.18 Archives Korean staff assistant, Shorrock is creating a searchable database of his files, ordered by relevance to Gwangju, that will be available for any future researcher looking to answer these and other question.

“It will be available and accessible to researchers and that to me is the most important thing. These documents are my life’s work, one of the greatest achievements of my career in journalism. I’m proud to have them here, and I’m glad that they will be accessible. It makes me feel like I’ve really contributed to this city, to understand what happened

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11 and have reconciliation with the past and with the United States, too.”

Arriving in Korea during a heated presidential election campaign leading up to the vote on May 9, following the first impeachment of a democratically elected president, Shorrock sees the current political situation as a continuation of the country’s democracy movement. He views the sustained nationwide candlelight street protests of late 2016 and early this year as signals of a shift in a new direction.

“It began a long time ago, with certain key events,” he said.

“4.19, 5.18, the election of Kim Dae-jung. This was a mass mobilization. I think it’s a climactic moment. It seems like people here in Korea want to turn away from these military, authoritarian, very right-wing conservative governments they’ve had for the last two presidents. Both the candlelight movement and the election are very important events in that succession.”

Although many Koreans felt a sense of shame during the prolonged impeachment process, Shorrock maintains that from his perspective as an American, the peaceful candlelight movement is nothing short of inspirational. Connecting the Korean protests with the largest demonstration he has ever seen in his home country, the Women’s March on Washington following the inauguration of Donald Trump, Shorrock sees a lot of hope for change. While traditionally ignored or misunderstood by the U.S. press and ordinary citizens, the latest wave of demonstrations helped to shine a new light on Korea. Still, Shorrock was disappointed by the U.S. coverage of the former president’s removal from office.

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As an important contributor to this uncovering of history, Shorrock views his journalistic role as bringing out stories that would not otherwise be shared with the public.

“When I was in Gwangju in 1985, people said ‘Please tell our story. Please tell Americans what happened here.’

Then I was a journalist after Hurricane Katrina hit New Orleans and the Gulf Coast in 2005. I heard the same thing from people: ‘Please tell our story.’ I’m always fair in my reporting, but I’m an activist as a journalist. I was ashamed of what happened in Gwangju, and I wanted to expose that because I don’t want it to happen again.”

To hear more from Tim Shorrock, come to his Saturday, May 20 GIC Talk.

May 2017

In Shorrock’s view, the 5.18 Gwangju Uprising was a Cold War-era uprising on the same level as China’s 1989 Tiananmen Square or Hungary’s 1956 revolt against the Soviet Union. Yet compared to these events, he sees that the story of Gwangju has not received the attention it deserves. Shorrock attributes this to the fact that, rather than a Communist government, people of this city rose up against a U.S.-backed military. These days, with presidential candidates investing more time and energy in Gwangju on the campaign trail, he believes that the area is receiving more of a domestic boost as part of the nation as a whole, after a long history of neglect by the central government.

“Maybe Jeolla and the Honam area is becoming more important as it’s becoming more integrated. A lot of people here don’t want the history forgotten. They want to make sure people understand what it’s all about.” www.gwangjunewsgic.com

“To be honest, Americans pay hardly any attention to South Korea,” he said. “All they see is, North Korea, bad.

The cynicism and ignorance of Americans towards South Korea is incredible. Apart from a few good reporters, Choe Sang-hun in the New York Times and Anna Fifield in the Washington Post, especially the TV side of the [impeachment] coverage was just hysterical and simplistic.”

◀ Tim in front of a Moon Jae-in rally downtown. ▲ Topmost: Tim with Lee Tong-gye, Gwangju activist who was a member of the Citizens’ Army in 1980 ▲ Bottom: Tim was interviewed for the SBS documentary on the Gwangju Uprising last April.

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www.gwangjunewsgic.com

May 2017

FEATURE

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After the Sewol

Two English Filmmakers Take on a Korean Tragedy Written by Anastasia Traynin Photos courtesy of Matt Root and Neil George

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y the time the movie was over, there were not many dry eyes in the audience of over 60 people at the April 22 Special GIC Talk. Bringing together an even mix of Koreans and foreigners in the Gwangju community, the Gwangju International Center had the opportunity to screen the recently completed independent documentary After the Sewol, with a guest visit by the filmmakers Matt Root and Neil George, who both hail from England.

Drawing on extensive interviews with bereaved family members and activists, as well as the history of safety problems and the Korean democracy movement, the movie paints a comprehensive portrait of the three-year national mourning period and struggle to discover the truth following the April 16, 2014 sinking of the Sewol ferry. With just a handful of screenings in Korea and a special online streaming on the third anniversary of the disaster, After the Sewol continues to garner press and critical acclaim on the film festival circuit. Root and George have begun work on a follow-up documentary, focusing on what they call the “Sewol Generation,” the youth who have grown up in the wake of the disaster.

13 “[The families] were very reluctant to talk to any media.

They didn’t trust anybody. So initially, it was a little bit difficult. We met with them six or seven times before they agreed to do it.”

The people interviewed for the documentary started from a father of one of the student victims, a leader in the national mourners’ movement. From there, the filmmakers met other family members, a National Assembly member sympathetic to the families, and divers involved in the rescue operations. While bereaved mothers have been very active in the post-disaster struggle, there is a noticeable lack of their voices in the documentary.

During questions from the audience after the screening, George maintained the need for keeping this ▲ British filmmakers Neil George (left) and Matt Root (right) national tragedy from disappearing from the public view. As expressed by families of the 304 “Mothers were extremely difficult to get,” Root said. “Even victims, most of whom were second-year students at two years after, they were still very emotional. They would Danwon High School in Ansan, the filmmakers agree that talk to us, but they didn’t want to be on camera. We’re truth and responsibility remain unresolved issues. hoping the second film will include more females.”

After the movie screening, GIC staff met with the filmmakers to discuss the origins and future of their joint project. At the time of the ferry sinking, George, based in Seoul, and Root, based in Daegu, had lived in Korea for several years but did not meet until they decided to work together on After the Sewol. They carefully crafted a plan for telling the story in the most sensitive manner. Still, it took time to overcome the obstacles.

“I never want our children or anyone’s children to have to go through this, so the more I can do to raise awareness, the better it will be for my family and everyone.”

“When the accident happened, there was a huge problem with the media, especially Korean media,” George said.

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George held a photo exhibit in Hongdae in 2005, before coming back in 2011 to teach film long-term at Seoul’s Dongah Institute of Media and Arts. Out of the few Korean screenings so far, he said he was most impressed by his university students’ reactions.

“Some of my students didn’t know the history of the Park

May 2017

Root came to Daegu as an English teacher six years ago after university. After marrying into a Korean family, he eventually stopped full-time teaching to devote himself to making After the Sewol. Now with a young child, he expressed hope for a better future for his family.

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“The people who should be held accountable have not been held accountable,” George said. “The Sewol families feel that they are being ignored. The film can keep people reminded that the families are still waiting. They have received no trauma treatment from the government.”

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14

Chung-hee era because they are all so young. They asked many good questions. I was surprised.”

For now, the ferry’s salvage operation that started on March 22 has brought the tragedy back into the public consciousness, after being nearly forgotten.

“The sad thing is, by 2015 few people were talking about it,” Root said. “By 2016, no one was talking about it. It’s only just now come back into the public eye, due to the salvage and the Choi Sun-sil scandal.”

Looking towards the upcoming May 9 presidential election and speaking from what he has learned while making the documentary, George still sees many things for Korea to overcome.

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May 2017

“Korea’s changing, definitely, but at the same time, politics, and money are still such a big problem. It’s deeply rooted. In ten or fifteen years’ time, when we look back on this day, people are going to realize how much the Sewol movement has impacted Korea.”

On the Sunday following the screening, filming for the second documentary occurred in Gwangju for the first time. Root and George plan a return trip to the city for this year’s May 18th commemoration, for more filming, interviews, and the possibility of showing the completed movie to a wider audience.

In memory of the third anniversary of the Sewol ferry sinking, Gwangju has ongoing exhibits throughout the city.

세월 오월

by Hong Sung-dam Dates: Already open and continuing through May 11 Location: Gwangju Museum of Art Main Building, Gallery 1 and 2 Website: http://artmuse. gwangju.go.kr Telephone: 062-613-7100

again 518-0416 Dates: Already open and continuing through May 27 Location: Kim Hyang-deuk AHHA Gallery Geumnam-ro 3-ga 15-1, Dong-gu, Gwangju Telephone: 070-4135-0826

Stay up to date with After the Sewol through their Facebook page and donate to the making of the follow-up movie: https://www.tumblbug.com/ project/185000fe-82f3-4e6b-a4af-d02d85cebc3a

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FEATURE

Breaking Down the Election: Who to Watch Written by Kelsey Rivers

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For the uninformed foreigner, all of the numbers and colorcoding are seemingly to help identify different parties, but the numbers (at least) have a greater significance than simply branding a candidate. For numbers one through six, the numbers were assigned based on the parties’ seat distribution in the National Assembly. Therefore, party one, the Minju Party of Korea, holds the most seats in the Assembly. For the other nine candidates, their parties hold no seats, and therefore their numbers are randomly assigned by lottery. Since the first five hold nearly all of the seats of the National Assembly amongst them, they are considered the most viable options in winning the presidential post.

May 2017

On April 17, the campaign season officially began, and the political parties of Korea threw themselves into the spirit of things with a fervor. Posters and banners have been strung everywhere; gangs of dancers and bowing ajummas stand at street corners and regale passersby with showy displays and loudspeaker announcements. With the campaign season only three weeks long, this is a brief, but powerful,

time to draw in voters. But with 15 different candidates running in this election, who the nominees are and which are the most important can be confusing.

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fter months of protests and demonstrations, the movement to impeach Park Geun-hye has finally been upheld by the Korean courts, and the president removed from office. The result of these political upheavals is the designation of a special election to be held May 9. Government offices and businesses across the country will be closed so as not to interfere with the vote.

For international residents, this will be a much appreciated break from the weekly grind, but for Koreans, it means so much more.

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16 1. The Minju Party of Korea (더불어민주당): Moon Jae-in The party currently holding the highest portion of seats in the National Assembly is 더 불어민주당, the Minju Party of Korea, a social liberal party.

Their candidate, Moon Jae-in, is the current front-runner in the opinion polls, and is widely favored to win the election.

Before he got into politics, Moon was a civil rights lawyer. He has held a seat in the National Assembly, and is a former chairman of the Minjoo Party. In 2012, Moon ran for the presidency under the Democratic United Party, but at that time, lost to Park Geun-hye. The image he attempts to portray is as a leader who has the support of young people and who takes moderate and rational stances.

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As a part of his more liberal agenda, he plans to repeal national security laws, work towards more fruitful dialogue with North Korea, and have more transparency in government. He is taking criticism on his stance on the THAAD defense system (a hot topic in this election), saying that denuclearization talks should be pursued with the North first, and the question of the deployment of THAAD left to the next administration. However, despite his liberal views and former occupation as a civil rights lawyer, in a recent televised debate, he claimed to not support homosexuality, sparking outrage from gay-rights activists.

2. Liberty Korea Party (자유한국당): Hong Joon-pyo The Liberty Korea Party is a center-right party that was formerly known as the Saenuri Party (Park Geunhye’s party.) It used to hold the most seats in the National Assembly, but after the recent presidential scandal, a separate conservative group that condemned Park splintered off to form the Bareun Party, thereby reducing the Liberty Korea Party’s seat ratio. Hong Joonpyo is their nominee for this election.

Hong Joon-pyo, a former state prosecutor, who inspired a popular television drama with his legal battling of crime organizations and ending of a notoriously powerful gambling ring, has been involved in politics for over 20

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years. He has held a seat in the National Assembly and been chairman, floor leader, supreme council member, and provincial chief for his party. He maintains a strong rightwing platform and is favored by an older, conservative voter base.

Unlike Moon, Hong has said that it’s too late to have denuclearization talks with North Korea, and so wants the THAAD defense system installed in multiple locations around Korea for use in defensive counter-measures against the North. This is a distinctly tougher stance on national security than what Moon proposes.

3. People’s Party (국민의당): Ahn Cheol-soo The People’s Party is a centrist party established

by Ahn in 2016. The party is positioned to be rather anti-establishment and at the center, so that it attracts support from both wings of the political spectrum.

Ahn is a dynamic character who ran for the presidency in the 2012 election but bowed out to give his support (and the votes he would have garnered) to Moon Jae-in, who was up against the now expresident Park Geun-hye. Before engaging in his political career, Ahn had been a medical doctor, a professor, and a software engineer. He is the founder of Ahnlab, Inc., a computer security company, that has been included in Korea Management Association Consulting’s annual list of Korea’s most admired companies. In 2013, he earned his first political position by winning a seat in the National Assembly.

Although the People’s Party is positioned as centrist party, in order to attract the support of conservative voters, Ahn has been leaning more right-wing when it comes to his positon on Korea’s relationship with the U.S. (urging for a stronger, closer relationship), and on security issues with North Korea. Previously, Ahn had been anti-THAAD, but in recent months, has changed his stance. Ahn anticipates a drastic restructuring of Korean politics if the People’s Party becomes the ruling party. He claims that if he is elected, he wants a unified cabinet of members from various political parties, saying, “This is not the time to distinguish between progressives and conservatives.”

4. Bareun Party (바른정당): Yoo Seung-min This center-right political party is a splinter group from the Liberty Korea Party, formed by 29 Saenuri politicians who wanted to distance themselves from ex-President

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17 Park and her party (what is now the Liberty Korea Party.)

The split was instigated by pro-Park factions in the National Assembly pressuring members to vote against her impeachment, which caused tension with anti-Park members. Yoo Seung-min is this party’s nominee for the presidential election.

Before entering politics, Yoo worked as an economist for the Korea Development Institute for nearly 15 years. In 2004, he joined the political game by gaining a seat in the National Assembly as a member of the Hannara Party, which would later become the Saenuri Party. Originally very close with ex-President Park, when he served as her chief of staff when she was a regular lawmaker, over the years he grew distant from her as he became critical of her policies. His anti-Park sentiments crystalized after the scandal, and he helped to form the Bareun Party in 2016.

and wants to find ways of addressing rising wealth inequality. Her position on the deployment of THAAD is quite clear, unlike Moon, the other liberal candidate. She strongly advocates for a nuke-free peninsula and does not want to see THAAD installed. Her social stances also reflect her progressive views for she is the only major candidate to support LGBTQ rights.

THE AUTHOR

Kelsey is an English teacher and proud resident of Mokpo. She began working with Gwangju News over two years ago, moving up the ranks from copy-editor, to chief proofreader, and finally to managing editor.

Besides her work with Gwangju News, she helps facilitate the Mokpo Language Exchange and Book Club, and volunteers at orphanages in Mokpo and Illo.

Like Ahn and Hong, Yoo also supports the deployment of the THAAD missile system to ensure national security.

His party also supports what they call “clean and warm conservatism,” which would involve more governmental disclosure, more generous welfare offerings, and economic reform.

5. Justice Party (정의당): Sim Sang-jung The Justice Party is a progressive political party whose presidential nominee is Sim Sang-jung, the only woman running in this election.

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May 2017

She maintains the most progressive stances of the top five presidential candidates. She promotes a ban on hereditary succession in chaebol (major family-run conglomerates),

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Sim is a member of the National Assembly as well as the leader of the Justice Party.

In the past, she was a strong labor rights activist, who as a young woman worked to help form labor unions and instigate strikes. At that time, she become so notorious that she was on Korea’s most-wanted list. She is a well-known leader in left-wing Korean politics and has variously been a leader and/or founder of the Democratic Labor Party, the New Progressive Party, and the Unified Progressive Party.

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18 Lost in Gwangju

The Tale of the Temples

Tranquility, Serenity, and Peacefulness TRAVEL

Written by Carlota Smith

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May 2017

midst the busy and industrialized cities of Korea abound peaceful and calm destinations such as the country’s captivating and mystical Buddhist temples. In and nearby Gwangju alone, there are five famous and well-known destinations you can readily visit during the day besides the smaller or rather secluded private temples all over the province.

A quick drive to one of these temples can provide one with a calm but invigorating experience. Visiting these temples is inexpensive yet truly helpful for many tourists; aside from learning a bit about the Buddhist culture, one can also feel the quiet, serene, and peaceful breeze.

JEUNGSIMSA (증심사) This temple is found within Gwangju. It is very accessible to commuters; buses bound for the temple are easily found. Tourists will not only get a taste of the cool breeze and the smell of pine trees and different flowers but also a glimpse of the core of Buddhist history and art. Cable rides are also available for those who want to explore the mountainside.

Address: 177 Jeungsimsa-gil, Ullim-dong, Dong-gu, Gwangju Website: http://www.jeungsimsa.org

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WONHYOSA (원효사) Wonhyosa is located in Geumgok-dong, Buk-gu, and is a seemingly hidden haven for many peace-loving folks.

Being in the city makes it a common place for older people and those who seek the gentle breeze and serene surroundings to gather for a respite from the busy city life that surrounds the temple on all sides. The uphill terrain and location of the temple gives viewers an uplifting feeling.

Address: 846 Geumgok-dong, Buk-gu, Gwangju SONGGWANGSA (송광사) Songgwangsa is located in Suncheon and is yet another peaceful destination for many tourists and locals.

Most people enjoy the soft and gentle pine breeze and atmosphere that only the fortress can offer. Songgwangsa, also known as the Spreading Pine Temple or Piney Expanse Monastery, is a home for the Zen practice of Buddhism and is among the oldest of the many Zen temples in Korea. Surrounded by many pine trees, the name literally describes the environment surrounding the temple.

Address: 12 Sinpyeong-ri, Songgwang-myeon, Suncheonsi, Jeollanam-do Website: http://www.songgwangsa.org/

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▲ Clockwise from top left: Jeungsimsa in winter (photo courtesy of Jeungsimsa), Songgwangsa decorated in colorful lanterns for Buddha’s Birthday (photo courtesy of Songgwangsa), Stone Statue of the Lying Buddha at Unjusa (photo courtesy of Unjusa), a monk ringing the bell to celebrate the Buddha’s Birthday celebration at Baekyangsa (photo courtesy of Beobra Seunim of Baekyangsa)

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May 2017

UNJUSA (운주사) Unjusa is 40 km south of Gwangju and is on the outskirts of Hwasun County. Strategically located in the heart of Jeollanam-do, the place abounds with stone pagodas and many stone carvings of Buddha, which are popular and much sought-after by visitors. Most people also enjoy the traditional tea served here, and the uphill temples, which provide a short yet toning workout for strollers.

Address: 20-1 Daecho-ri, Doammyeon, Hwasun-gun, Jeollanam-do Website: http://www.unjusa.org/

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BAEKYANGSA (백양사) This temple is the home of Buddhist monk education in the Jeolla provinces. It is in Bukha-myeon, Jangseong County. The tale of the enlightened white sheep is one that surrounds the founding of this calm and peaceful place in the early time of the Baekje Kingdom two millennia ago. Any visitor who wishes for a historical and peaceful get-away can get his or her heart’s desire after a trip to this beautifully placed temple nestled among brooks and thick stands of trees.

Address: 1236 Baekyang-ro, Bukha-myeon, Jangseonggun, Jeollanam-do Website: http://baekyangsa.kr/

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May 2017

ARTS & CULTURE

20 Photo Essay

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Reality Bites Written and photographed by Amy-Leigh Braaf

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he train moved like a flexible centipede, strategic in its direction, yet curving about the tracks to Seoul as if it had no desire to live up to anyone’s expectations except its own.

My earphones, slung around my neck, had been uncomfortably digging into my collarbone as my over-filled pleather bag pushed them down into my skin even further. Did that elderly man sitting opposite me notice? No, it appears that he had been asleep long before I had even gotten onto the train. It being my first subway ride in this glorious yet enigmatic country, I decided to capture everything photographically – I can’t depend on my bad eyesight all that much.

May 2017

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Although my intentions were superficial at first, my camera is what molded my very malleable personality at the time. For some reason, as soon as I held it, I was invisible to myself and those around me. In this day and age, with social media at every turn, profiles on different platforms, and cyber-personalities that we have to constantly maintain, invisibility isn’t the worst thing.

As if we were polishing a golden clock every day that would eventually stop ticking – until, inevitably, it would be replaced with another aesthetically similar clock – we focus so much energy on things that disappear as fast as my grandmother’s cakes sell at Sunday Mass, and why? I can’t help but be grateful to have been sitting on a train, feeling ridiculously self-conscious about a sleeping old man who didn’t care about what I looked like. Korea has that ability to push all of that nonsense away, even if for only a moment. As you walk through its streets, Korea, with its historical sites and rich allure, shocks you with a reality bite yet simultaneously takes you in with two arms and a warm plate of food (kimchi included).

I left a lot behind me to come to this country out of impulse, but perhaps I’m mistaken. Impulse has no say when a cosmic force has its hands on the dice that decide where you end up in your life. A month ago, I was drinking coffee in a café, writing down all the places I would visit if I moved to Korea, and here I am now, capturing life almost as fast as its captures me.

THE AUTHOR

May 2017

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www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Amy-Leigh Braaf is 22 years old and has a BA in film production and English literature from the University of Cape Town. She is currently living in Ilsan, Gyeonggi-do, and working as an English teacher. She has worked for The Varsity Newspaper in Cape Town, freelanced as an illustrator and filmmaker, had her own radio show, and even started her own baking business. However she feels the happiest when she writes about the stories she experiences along with the photographs she takes. Her passion for photography and art has grown upon her arrival here, and it has become a driving force in the way she lives my life and how she intends on capturing it.

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Photo of the Month

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May 2017

ARTS & CULTURE

Written and photographed by Jaypee Capiral

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first came to Korea as a foreign worker; I kept saying that it was a very toxic life, with the long hours of difficult manual work and less time for myself. However, I was able to discover my passion for photography, and that is, I can say, one of the greatest gifts that Korea has given me.

I left Korea after finishing my contract and went back to the Philippines, where I found it quite difficult to adjust to how photography works in my home country. One problem was the lack of freedom in taking photographs. I was bound by restrictions and the accessibility of the places where I wanted to shoot. Then, I had the opportunity to come back to Korea, but this time as a tourist – meaning, I am free, no bosses. I am the boss of my own time. I have been able to taste again all the Korean foods that I missed eating, reminisce about all of the memorable experiences that I have had while living and working here in Korea. I also have had the chance to meet old friends and visit the places that I had already been to with my girlfriend, but this time I was able to enjoy them a lot more than before.

One of the things that I had missed the most was Korea’s four seasons. The drama of nature that goes along with the change of the seasons gives me a boost in producing quality portraits. I have the freedom to take photos in most areas with a great deal of stunning scenery. Also, the four seasons remind me of the cycle of life, that life isn’t always gloomy and cold, that there will be time for bounty and beauty. Like spring, life can still bloom after death. What I anticipated the most was when the cherry blossoms would be in full bloom for the softness of the blossoms’ color gives more brightness to the surroundings, giving everyone a joyful mood. Picture-perfect nature, picture-perfect spring.

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Do you have any photos that you would like to show to Gwangju (and the world)? Gwangju News features a photo of the month to create more opportunities to promote more photographers based in the Jeollanamdo region and to show off our beautiful province from different areas and angles. Submissions can be posted in the “Photography in the South” Facebook group throughout the preceding month. Alternatively, you can also send your submissions to the editor by email: gwangjunews@gic.or.kr

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TRAVEL

26 Around Korea

Damyang

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May 2017

Written and photographed by Stephanie and Ryan Hedger

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hether you’re a horticulturist or a casual naturelover, the trees of Damyang, South Korea are as famous as they are beautiful. Damyang is a small town located northeast of Gwangju Metropolitan City and is a perfect escape from the big city to something more natural. Damyang is known for two very different types of trees: bamboos and metasequoias. These living goliaths surround you with their towering beauty as you stroll along the forest paths, offering a wonderful place to reflect. Each of these trees and their park’s atmosphere are entirely different.

BAMBOO FOREST Easily one of the most famous forests in South Korea, Juknokwon (죽녹원, or literally “Bamboo Garden”) is a large park with… a large bamboo garden. With paths

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winding through this forest, we see this grove of bamboo trees as a legitimate rival to world-famous Arashiyama Bamboo Forest in Kyoto. Spectacularly beautiful and quite large, Juknokwon was originally a garden meant for contemplation and rest for the Confucian school located on the far side of the garden. A leisurely walk through this forest is spectacularly calming. For fans of Korean dramas, there are also several filming locations within the park where you can take photos. Surrounded by bamboos on all sides, visitors are immersed into a different world once through the gate, and for a meager 2,000 won you have access to both the forest and the school in the rear. Beautifully situated on the side of a hill and next to a wonderfully lively river, Juknokwon is a must-see attraction in Damyang.

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May 2017

▲ Bamboo Forest ◀ Meta-Provincial Town

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28 calm of natural beauty, the intermittent crowds seemed to disappear for long stretches, and we all found ourselves enjoying the same breathtaking view.

META-PROVINCIAL TOWN After enjoying the towering trees of the Metasequoia Road, be sure to rest your legs at the Meta-Provincial Town across the street. This whimsical “town” is an eclectic concoction of world culture, shopping, art, and food.

Hosting a multitude of surprising and sometimes confusing genres mixed together, this town can be enjoyed by visitors both young and old. The Metasequoia Road and MetaProvincial Town make for a wonderful outing for anyone’s taste and are both playfully opposite the street from each other and opposites in conception.

DAMYANG Many cities in South Korea claim to be the best and most famous for varying reasons, but we have no reservations in proclaiming Damyang as the best city for trees. While this might not seem like the biggest draw to some, the beauty, romance, variety, and culture found in Damyang is sure to please even the most discerning visitor.

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May 2017

▲ Metasequoia Road

HYANGGYO CONFUCIAN SCHOOL Located behind Juknokwon, this former Confucian school is a gorgeous spot to relax after hiking through the bamboo forest. With stunning architecture and water elements that form a current of peaceful serenity, Hyanggyo is a lovely place to spend an afternoon and allow for the crowds to subside. Colorful flowers, lounge chairs, a hanok café, and ponds are all available to visitors. The landscaping of this garden is stunning and well worth spending time in after enjoying the bamboo forest.

METASEQUOIA ROAD While not generally associated with

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Asian flora, these hard redwoods create an impressive landscape around their walking-path park. Reaching high into the sky, these fast-growing hardwoods establish a landscape that is breathtaking. We had originally expected to be underwhelmed, but we were terrifically wrong and had a really great time. With ice cream in hand, we wandered the Metasequoia Road for several hours, stopping periodically to sit on benches and watch people enjoying the park in their own ways.

Although heavy with foot traffic, we found the park’s population less obtrusive than in many others, and we attributed this to the immense stature of the trees. Engulfed in the blissful

THE AUTHORS Ryan and Stephanie have lived, traveled, and worked in South Korea since 2013. Based out of Yeosu, they are the duo behind Hedgers Abroad, their blog, which documents their lives through photography, videos, and shared stories. They freelance in their spare time and are on the road constantly.

Blog: www.hedgersabroad.com Facebook: /hedgersabroad Instagram: /hedgersabroad

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Korean Food 29

Meokbang (Eating Broadcast) A Modern Korean Way of Sharing

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ong ago, when the Korean extended family was so large that the moms had to prepare a series of tables to feed all their family members, it was customary to share a table, though it was often in a solemn atmosphere. These small parts of daily life permeated into a unique Korean culture, and in fact, they still are part of our everyday life in a slightly modified way due to the development of technology, especially in the media environment. It is hard to define the exact time period when shows related to cooking and food began to dominate the television schedule. However, the emergence of meokbang (먹방) or “eating broadcast,” is a significant fun factor in recent Korean TV programming.

THE AUTHOR Cho Namhee is a coordinator at Gwangju International Center. He also currently studies communication at Chonnam National University.

May 2017

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There is far too much to tell in relating the chronicles of meokbang. However, this month’s column is solely to attract you to the world of this peculiar “sharing” culture.

Nowadays, many Koreans tend to seek out restaurants that have appeared on TV or have been introduced in meokbang shows. Try watching those shows either on TV or online to see if any of them lure you to the restaurants or tables where the presented food is served.

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The advent of personal broadcasting platforms such as AfreecaTV and Kakao TV, and the consequent introduction of a new occupation in the field, broadcast jockey (BJ), has intensified the craze of food and cooking broadcasts in Korea. In the beginning, around 2010, Meokbang seemed as if it were a food competition specifically for the hosts. They challenged themselves to devour ridiculously excessive amounts of food in a limited time, and shared the moment of achievement or failure with their unknown, distant audience. They were often rewarded or encouraged with rewards in the currency of “star balloons” or similar gifts arranged by the platform providers. Foods now range from fast-foods to heavy Korean dishes like pots of gamjatang, but in extraordinarily large amounts. Some can handle a dozen bowls of jjajangmyeon and combos of Big Macs in less than half an hour.

According to 2013 media statistics, out of 5,000 live personal broadcasts on AfreecaTV, 10 to 15 percent are meokbang. People watch these broadcasts with either awe or loathing. The gap between these polarized opinions has narrowed down as the broadcasts eventually gained more variety in their content, combining with things such as games, gossip talk, and fitness (ironically). The broadcast service stations started to pay attention to the “eating” factor and the word “meokbang” was coined.

It now depicts any moment in TV shows when the cast members are performing acts related to food or cooking.

Numerous studies have been conducted to discover the factors for the craze of food-related shows in Korea, and the majority of the studies indicate that, of course, culture is a big part of the performance.

FOOD & DRINKS

Written by Cho Namhee

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FOOD & DRINKS

30 Where to Eat

Mac Bottle Shop

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May 2017

Written and photographed by Sean D’Angelo

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f you are reading this, it means you’ve managed to survive your Cinco de Mayo celebrations over the weekend – and what a weekend it was! Buddha’s Birthday, Children’s Day, and one of the world’s most famous international boozing festivals, which, incidentally, would never have existed if not for the savvy marketing of Corona and Groupo Modello breweries – not like we needed more reasons to celebrate a long weekend. While many of you in the Gwangju region must have headed over to our favorite Mexican restaurants, Corona or Tequilaz, for their epic food and (most of all) mind-blowing drink specials, I know at least a few of you took your celebrations outside for an early taste of fun in the sun. That’s where the real party can be found: at the beach, in the mountain valleys, or just chilling with friends on a bench in the park. It’s summertime, baby! What better way to celebrate than with copious intoxication! This month’s column should really be called

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“Where to Drink” because it is a beer hotspot that fuels so many great festivities with friends: the Mac Bottle Shop.

This store is the first in Gwangju to focus exclusively on craft and microbrew beers from around the world.

Mac Bottle Shop, or 보리맥, takes its name from the Korean word for beer, maekju, and serves over fifty different varieties hand-picked by the owner, from top-notch international craft breweries to local indie brewers here in Korea. Staples include Korean breweries like Hand and Malt, and The Booth, and international big hitters like Ballast Point, Kona, Lagunitas, Snapshot, Brewdog, and Northcoast, with each bottle running at about 5,000 to 7,000 won. While just four months old and humble in scale, Mac has already become something of a local legend, attracting restaurateurs, artists, and artisans to its warm, cozy little interior. With just seven seats, a bar, and a single table, it is surprising how often people lin-

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FOOD & DRINKS

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laureates do these days. Little known fact:

Now that spring has finally blown its last chill for the year, He used to be addicted to soap, but he is you can take full advantage of everything Mac Bottle Shop clean now. He survives off the kindess of others, and if it weren’t offers. Located across the street from the green at the Asia for the Gwangju News, he probably wouldn’t eat at all.

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Culture Complex, it couldn’t be easier to grab a six-pack of awesome beers, then order a pizza next door at Piazza, and borrow one of their lawn mats to enjoy it outside in the open air while you watch the sun set over the city.

Conversely, you can just grab a few bottles to drink in bed while watching reruns of Grey’s Anatomy. No one is judging here. However you choose to booze, be it in the ger here over their beers, enjoying the eclectic company comfort of your own home or out and about with pals, of fellow patrons or just watching the latest Tigers game Mac Bottle Shop has got you covered. on the tube. Although the intent was to open a store (not MAC BOTTLE SHOP a bar), the owner’s hospitality, fun selection of finger 광주 동구 제봉로 114 food, and vast beer knowledge always seems to encour- 114 Jebong-ro, Dong-gu, Gwangju age customers to hang around. Paralyzed by choice? The Open daily midday until midnight.

Phone: 010-9433-1056 staff is there to help. With an intimate appreciation of each Instagram: @bottleshop.mac beer’s unique profile, these beer enthusiasts will steer you through a rainbow montage of flavors that will literally THE AUTHOR Sean is a traveling columnist and partleave your senses reeling. It is easy to lose track of time time model. He is the author of countless trying all the beers they offer, especially since the selection books you’ve never heard of, and a few is always fresh. One week, there will be a coffee stout with you have but could have sworn were vanilla, chocolate, and chili; the next, perhaps a hoppy apwritten by someone actually famous. Sean ple cider brewed in Seoul. There’s always something intercurrently makes a living teaching bad esting hiding up on the shelves. jokes to children, like so many former poet

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www.gwangjunewsgic.com

May 2017

FOOD & DRINKS

32

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Kitchen Stories Oritang and Pig’s Feet Soup Written and photographed by Karly Pierre

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33 Gokseong (곡성) in Jeollanam-do. She married at age 30, later than normal for girls at that time, and had one son, Sungje.

Some of her fondest memories are of cooking oritang (오리탕, duck stew) for her family.

“Making oritang is not that easy,” says Cho. “It demands a lot of energy and time, but when I watched my whole family having this stew together, I could tell that it was their favorite. Another reason [why I like making oritang] is that people can easily buy chicken, pork, or beef, but duck is a little rarer and more special.”

She explains that stews, such as oritang, allow for a tremendous amount of variation based on region and a family’s specific taste.

“Oritang is generally a clear soup, but I like to cook it my way, South Jeolla style,” says Cho. “I buy duck with its bone and flesh separated from the beginning. I ask the butcher to debone the duck, so that I can use the bones separately to make the soup thicker. If you boil the duck bones slowly for a long time and then add the duck meat later, your soup will taste better. That’s a real soup! To me, [boiling the bones] is the most difficult part of the recipe but a necessary part.

Then you add the other ingredients – vegetables, soybean paste, and ho Yeong-ja follows her two granddaugh- sesame seed powder, and boil them. It is a dish that shows great love ters, Suji and Sora, as they burst into their and care from a mother to her family.” apartment still wound up from their day at school. Cho, 58, balances into a deep practiced Though she is just visiting her son’s family, Cho is busy at the squat while simultaneously helping the girls re- sink washing dishes. Today she has the day off from her job as a move their backpacks and plying them with tiny caretaker in a hospital. After years working as a housewife, the job seaweed rice cakes dipped in barley syrup. As the is a recent and fulfilling career move. Just as she finishes scrubbing children breathlessly chatter about their day, she the last dish in the sink, Sora, her youngest grandchild, offers her replies with a playful gasp and laughter. When Cho a cup of imaginary tea from her tea set. Cho accepts with a laugh. was a child, she walked for an hour to get to school. She’s ready for a break.

She grew up in a large family in the rural village of

C

GELATINOUS PIG’S FEET BONE BROTH SOUP 돼지 족발탕 Although Cho’s family enjoys her oritang, she wanted to share this unique recipe for pig’s feet soup. This soup is not only nutritious but is also known as an excellent way to promote milk production in mothers struggling with breastfeeding. For a month following the birth of each of her grandchildren, Cho cared for her daughter-in-law with this delicious soup.

Note: When warm, the soup will have a creamy, slightly tacky texture. After being cooled in the refrigerator, the texture will become gelatinous.

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May 2017

COOKING METHOD 1. If possible, cut the pig’s feet into smaller chunks. Soak the pig’s feet in cold water for approximately 4 hours. Check periodically and change the water until there is no blood left in the water.

2. Put the feet in a pot and pour in 1.8 liters of water. Then place the yellow onion, ginger, green onion, and cloves into a muslin herb sachet, and put the sachet into the pot. Bring the water to a boil on high heat. Once the water is boiling, reduce the water to medium heat and continue to simmer for 2 hours.

3. After 2 hours, pour the broth into another pot and add more water. Simmer for another 2 hours. Repeat this process again 3 more times. When the broth begins to thicken, boil on high heat. Once the broth begins to boil, turn off the heat.

Remove bones and fat, and discard. Remove cartilage and pack into a firm disc.

4. Season the soup with salt. Add Korean leeks and black pepper to taste.

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INGREDIENTS 1 set of pig’s feet (2 back feet, 2 front feet), 1 yellow onion, 1 ginger root, 1 green onion stalk, 5 peeled garlic cloves

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FOOD & DRINKS

34 Health

Good for Health?

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

May 2017

Written by Shellane Ehlert

O

ne of the first things I heard after I stepped off the plane from the U.S. as I was putting my first bite of Korean food in my mouth was “This is good for health!” This would not be the last time I would hear this, but it would become a daily saying throughout my time here. I had told myself that I would be completely open to food while in Korea, putting anything that I was offered in my mouth and at least trying it. Since I discovered that I came to represent the entire population of foreigners in my

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school, I started my “fake liking it” rule. If I was going to represent an entire population, I was going to do it right.

Coming from the Midwest, I did not have the most refined palate for seafood, but I smiled as I put the sea slug in my mouth and nodded at the statement “This is good for health.”

Yet something in the back of my brain started to question whether every Korean food was “good for health.” I had received a degree in community health in the U.S. and had taken some

extensive nutrition classes. I just did not see how processed white rice flour was “good for health,” or how many of the other foods were either.

So, I set out to figure out exactly which Korean foods were, in fact, “good for health” with some light research (I did not want to go too far down the rabbit hole).

My findings are oddly mixed. Some people attest to the amazing amount of vegetables Koreans eat through banchan (side dishes), but others fight back by saying that these

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35 dishes are usually pickled, salted, or pan fried in oil, muting their healthy attributes. Some people claim that their diets are low in meat, while others claim that they eat too much meat. Here is a breakdown of two completely opposite articles within the last few years.

The first article I stumbled upon was of the opinion that Korean food is not as healthy as is often boasted.

Andrew Salmon of the Korea Times wrote the article “Is Korean Food Healthy?” about how he attended a symposium on marketing Korean food internationally and why this was so difficult back in 2014. He says in the article that he actually got into an argument on how Korean food could not be marketed as healthful because it is not actually healthy. This article had me in a tailspin. For the previous 18 months, I had been told that every Korean food I ate was good for my health, especially my stamina. This man had to be out of his mind!

Reading on, Salmon presented some solid facts: “For males and females, South Koreans have the highest rates of stomach (gastric) cancer per

person among 48 countries surveyed by the American Association for Cancer Research in 2002,” he wrote.

He also brought into the argument the fact that there seems to be a lack of fresh vegetables in the Korean diet, and he goes on to say, “Researchers believe salty and pickled foods are most problematic. According to the World Health Organization, a person should eat no more than five grams of sodium per day; Koreans eat 13.4g.” He also found “a paper bluntly entitled ‘Kimchi and Soybean Pastes are Risk Factors in Gastric Cancer,’ published in the World Journal of Gastroenterology in 2005, [which] was based on research conducted by Chungbuk National University.”

The next article I examined broke Korean food into two categories: healthy and not healthy. Andy Bellati wrote an article entitled “Best and Worst Korean Foods.” In it, he divided ten Korean foods into healthy and not healthy. The number one healthy food was kimchi. The food that the other article claimed to be not as healthy as we all thought! The rest of the healthy foods consisted of the vegetable side dishes that others

said were not healthy because they are cooked and contain oil. Andy’s reasoning rests on the fermentation of many foods. He says, “A growing body of research suggests fermented foods keep our gut bacteria wellfed and in tip-top shape, resulting in improved gastrointestinal health, possible boosts to immune health, and even help with management of certain skin conditions such as eczema.” My ears perked up at eczema, as I have it pretty bad on my hands, but it did start to clear when I moved to Korea. After having read this article, I was back on the other side of the fence, ready to nod along with those who say “Good for health” when I take bites of their carefully prepared dishes.

After my light research, I could only conclude one thing: that yes, some Korean foods are healthy, but maybe not as many as are said to be. As with eating most cuisine, common sense and taking some of the local’s information with a grain of salt is the best way to go about it.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

May 2017

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36 Sports

Yeongam Wangin Culture Festival

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May 2017

COMMUNITY

Written and photographed by Muhammadolim Alimov

W

hat do you think: where do people usually make their best friends?

Children and the younger generation may say it’s while playing together or studying in class. However, people can make new friends anywhere.

And if you ask me, I say people become best friends when they work together. By working together as one team, you can get to know your partner better – you can get to know his or her character, habits, and so on. People who work as a team and in the same place can attest that their colleagues become their best friends.

GFN (Gwangju Foreign Network) radio cares about connecting people, not only Koreans but also international students and other visitors to Korea. Every year, GFN arranges interesting social activities and competitions that motivate people to make new friends. In these competitions, people are required to form groups in order to take part in these fantastic events. One of these events is the “Amazing Race,” which is held annually by GFN’s hardworking staff.

On April 9 of this year, a Sunday, GFN staged an event at Yeongam Wangin,

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to add another attractive element to the cherry blossom festival. This event was GFN’s “The Amazing Race 2017,” part of the “Yeongam Wangin Culture Festival” this year.

Personally, it was my second time to participate in this amazing festival.

People who have never heard of this event may be confused, for how can a race be amazing? Let me explain this interesting event in detail.

Firstly, there are no age limitations.

I personally became friends with participants who are around 40 years old. They also enjoyed the race as children do. Secondly, no one asks your nationality or where you are from. This is one point of how the organizers are tolerant and hospitable. So, everyone can make groups with many different people from various backgrounds and name their team as they want.

Thirty teams took part in this festival.

Team members consisted of many different nationalities, including Korean, Chinese, Malaysian, Pakistani, Uzbek, Kazakh, Kyrgyz, Russian, American, Dutch, Czech, French, Indian, and other students from all over the world. Our team consisted of four people of four

different nationalities: Arjun Pillay from Malaysia, Kim Ederveen from the Netherlands, Kim Seungha from Korea, and myself from Uzbekistan.

We called our team “Not Fast, Just Furious.”

What do the teams usually do during the festival? They have to do different, interesting tasks that they weren’t told about in advance. This is also one of the tricks of the race that makes the event so amazing.

They didn’t even give us the details of the tasks that we had to do. They only gave us a map of the territory of the festival. The first task was to find a list of the tasks. And then they gave us only one hour to complete all the tasks listed. Therefore, to be successful in the competition, participants had to run. Otherwise, they would not have enough time to finish all of the tasks. Participants could not only enjoy the race itself, but could earn some money as well.

First prize was 300,000 won. There were prizes for second, third, and fourth places, too. If the number of participants in the Amazing Race exceeded 150 people, the number of visitors and guests at the event was approximately 20 times greater.

Moreover, there was a street theater

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37

performance that depicted the history of the Baekje Kingdom. The performers sang traditional Korean songs that inspired everyone.

In the competition, when we found the list of tasks, we realized that there were 20 tasks that we were supposed to finish in one hour! These tasks were to take a team picture, to count from 1 to 10 in one breathe as a group, to climb a hill that was 20 meters high and to sing the ABC song as a team at the top, to do several traditional games, to catch a fish, to jump 10 times, to make sugar candy, and other different amazing games. The most significant and amazing part of the festival was that we did all of these tasks as a team, all together.

Participants were provided with single-color T-shirts, different colors to differentiate the teams. While the team members were running around, the different colors made the scene more attractive and livelier. Guests also enjoyed watching us and how we were playing, working, and enjoying, all at the same time.

singers. Near the lake, the winners were given prizes, and a photo of all of the participants was taken.

The Uzbek students of Chonnam National University took first prize.

Prizes were only for motivation.

Even those who didn’t place in the race really enjoyed the festival; it was amazing. We made so many new friends thanks to the festival and thanks to GFN.

At the end of the festival, there was a parade for all of the participants in the festival, including the dancers and

By the way, GFN is planning to arrange another festival next month, a photography event. New

adventures await us again. Living in Korea is indeed amazing!

THE AUTHOR

May 2017

Muhammadolim Alimov is from Uzbekistan. He is 25 years old and a second-year student of Chonnam National University.

He likes playing tennis and chess, and swimming.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

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▲ Top Left: The writer (left) with his teammates ▲ Top Right: Trying on tuho (Korea’s traditional pitch-pot game) ▲ Bottom: Parade of traditional music closes the festival

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38 From Abroad

Follow Our Silk Road

TRAVEL

Part 2: Tajikistan and Uzbekistan Written and photographed by Áine Byrne and Fabio Tardim

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

May 2017

A

fter traveling through the southeastern corner of Kazakhstan and most of Kyrgyzstan, our journey finally took us to Tajikistan and Uzbekistan.

Traveling Central Asia is an incredible experience but one that does not come easy. To quote Paul Theroux: “Traveling is only glamorous in retrospect.”

obstacles. The borders of the “Stans” are essentially an artificial Soviet invention. And at times, it can prove quite difficult to figure the best way in and out of a country. While this is a bit of a letdown, it is part of the Silk Road, and it has been like that as long as it has existed, crossing several territories controlled by different empires at different times.

We both considered Tajikistan to probably be the hardest area to travel through. So, when we were about to cross the Kyrgyz border into Tajik territory, that was when things would get a bit rough on the road (or at least that is what we thought then).

Despite the difficulties, our preconception of the country was full of prejudices and bias, and in the end, most of those were just exaggerated, though not untrue.

TAJIKISTAN Republic of Tajikistan Tajikistan was one of the poorest, most heavily dependent republics in the old USSR. It has not changed much since independence and experienced a brutal civil war that only ended in the late 1990s. Perhaps the biggest problem of the region is that the Tajiks have been at the fringes of great empires but at the center of none. Most travelers come here for its marvelous mountain treks and scenery.

As we moved away from the more nomadic cultures towards the settled traders of Tajikistan and Uzbekistan, we also faced some modern

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History in Brief Both the Bactrian Empire and

the Sogdians inhabited Tajikistan around the first century B.C., but Tajik ancestry is a complex subject.

At that time, Alexander the Great battled the Sogdians and founded his easternmost town, modern-day Khojand. Modern Tajiks trace their ancestry to the days of the Persian Samanid Dynasty, and this can be perceived in their deep connection with Iran and deference to Ismoil Somoni.

In more modern times, Tajikistan was a satellite of Soviet Uzbekistan and only later acquired the status of a full union republic. However, Samarkand and Bukhara, historically Tajik cities, remained part of Uzbekistan. After the collapse of the USSR and its declaration of independence in 1991, Tajikistan descended into a brutal civil war that lasted until 1997. Since then, there has been some sort of peace, a dictatorship in the making, and rapid reconstruction of the country.

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39

▲ Iskanderkul, Tajikistan

“When people discover Tajikistan, they generally fall into two categories – those who hate it, and those who love it. There is no in-between. If you don’t mind a slower pace of life and don’t care about high standard commodities, you will find the friendliest strangers and perhaps the truest friends here.

Tajik genuine hospitality and the raw, uncommercialized natural landscape open for exploring is what makes this place so special.” — Yulia, Journalist (Dushanbe)

Tajikistan is an incredible country to visit, and whoever visits this corner of Central Asia will certainly go back home with a few stories to tell. That said, it is probably not for everyone. Terrible roads coupled with mountainous terrain and some really bold drivers make it a difficult place to navigate or enjoy at times.

Tajikistan’s people and jaw-dropping scenery are worth it; however, do some prior research and bring a lot of patience.

May 2017

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in the mountains. There is plenty to see, for example, the longest Buddha statue in Central Asia in the Museum of National Antiquities. There are also a number of nice bars and pubs, and of course, a really good bazaar.

• Pamirs – Most visitors to Tajikistan come to see the so-called “roof of the world.” It is one of the most remote areas in the country with altitudes of up to 4,500 meters. It is the ultimate road trip, best experienced in the summer.

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Top Highlights Traveling Tajikistan is like following in the footsteps of other famous explorers while glancing on ancient forts and cities that were once part of the old Silk Road. It is also an immersion in history as you explore ancient Sogdian and Bactrian sites as well as places of importance in the campaigns of Alexander the Great, among others. As a result, there are far too many places to list, but we can get an essential list for first-timers.

• Khojand – This is one of the oldest cities in Central Asia and the secondlargest in the country, the city has

several Soviet-era monuments and buildings, and a lively bazaar (one of the largest in Central Asia).

• Istaravshan – This city is located in the richer northern province of Sughd and is the ancient Cyropolis, known today as Istaravshan. The citadel that was smashed by Alexander’s troops is still there. It is still a worthy visit for its beautiful Islamic tombs.

• Iskander-kul – A visit to the northern region cannot be complete without a detour to this scenic milkyblue lake connected to the dramatic peaks of the Fan Mountains. You can experience traditional Tajik hospitality by spending a night or two in Sarytag village.

• Penjikent and the Fan Mountains – For those interested in archeological sites and ancient history, the old Sogdian city of Penjikent is incredible to explore. Add in some days trekking around the craggy peaks and turquoise lakes of the Fan Mountains.

• Dushanbe – Leafy and charming, Dushanbe is a nice place to rest and recharge after all the adventures up

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40 country retain its culture in spite of Soviet rule. Its modern borders, designed by Moscow, include areas where the majority of the population is not ethnic Uzbeks. Unfortunately, after independence in 1991, President Karimov consolidated his power and the country became a dictatorship. Only last year, due to Karimov’s death, Uzbekistan elected a new president, and there are a few modest signs of change.

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May 2017

▲ Khojand, Tajikistan

UZBEKISTAN For those traveling the Silk Road, Uzbekistan holds a very special place since all routes converge in Samarkand. Indeed, the country is the beating heart of Central Asia, with historical centers that still carry the weight of history. Uzbekistan is comprised of the ancient lands between the Amu Darya (Oxus) and Syr Darya (Jaxartes) rivers, where the last mountains coming all the way from China yield to the desolate Kyzylkum and Karakum deserts.

History in Brief Uzbekistan is a melting pot of Turkic and Persian cultures, a meeting point of nomads and settlers with an added Soviet twist.

This desert land was once home of Timur (a.k.a. Tamerlane), who conquered Persia and parts of India. Despite being a barbaric and savage leader, he was a patron of the arts and is responsible for some of the world’s most fascinating architectural gems.

Uzbekistan is besieged with a strong sense of identity that pervades centuries of history, one so strong that it helped the

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Top Highlights Uzbekistan’s big three cities are Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva. No visit to the country would be complete without a visit to these three cities that unfold all of Uzbekistan’s extraordinary past in rich detail.

• Samarkand – For over 2,500 years, it was the main trade crossroads of the Silk Road, enveloped by exotic romanticism and historical importance. Upon his visit, Alexander the Great said, “Everything I have heard about Samarkand is true, except it is even more beautiful than I had imagined.” Turquoise Timurid mosaics, domes, and dramatic architectural ensembles take your breath away in Samarkand. Words cannot do it justice.

• Bukhara – One of the oldest cities in the region, Bukhara is another impressive gem, albeit overshadowed a little by Samarkand.

Make no mistake, though: this is a must in any trip to Uzbekistan. It is hard to resist its slow pace of life, the narrow lanes of its mazy old town, as well as its chaikhanas (teahouses) and mesmerizing architecture.

• Khiva – Further north, hidden away in the desert, is the walled town of Khiva. Many tourists end up skipping Khiva due to its remote location, but a trip is well worth it. Most of its opulent buildings are preserved, and the city seems frozen in time (without the touristoriented business that plagues Samarkand).

• Khorezm – Via Khiva, it is also possible to visit many of the sandcastle ruins that punctuate the whole province of Khorezm. Some of them are in very good shape and remain impressive sites to visit. These are a day trip from Khiva, but it can be easily coupled with a night stay in a desert yurt, oasis swims, and camel rides.

• Aral Sea – One of the main environmental disasters of recent times, the Aral Sea has lost 75 percent of its volume since the 1950s. While reaching the sea is quite difficult, a trip to the former fishing villages that now are desert towns full of rusty fishing trawlers in the sand is a reminder of environmental recklessness.

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41 • Republic of Karakalpakstan – A Stan within a Stan, the desolate Republic of Karakalpakstan is one of the poorest parts of Uzbekistan, unfortunately associated with the Aral Sea disaster. Nukus, its capital, is a bland Soviet town in the middle of the desert. However, it is here that you can find the home of the finest collection of Soviet avant-garde art, the Museum of Art Igor Savitsky (www.savit-skycollection.org).

Money and the Black Market: Anyone thinking about going to Uzbekistan should be advised to bring hard currency. U.S. dollars are the currency of trade, but euros are widely accepted. Hotels, restaurants, and pretty much anyone will facilitate exchange at black-market rates, which are almost twice the official bank rates. While technically illegal, currency exchange is not strictly enforced. Even hotels will charge you at black-market rates.

If you can only make it to one country, make it to Uzbekistan. It is Central Asia’s cradle of culture and where you can see an important part of the Silk Road’s history in ancient sites that have been carefully preserved and never fail to impress. Though it is a very touristy place, it is still worth it.

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May 2017

▶ Top Right: Aral Sea, Uzbekistan ▶ Bottom Right: Bukhara, Uzbekistan

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THE AUTHORS Áine Byrne and Fabio Tardim are an intrepid traveling couple currently journeying across Central Asia while writing a series about each country for the Gwangju News. They will also publish articles for multiple media outlets about their trip in spring 2017. To find out more about Central Asia and how to get there, follow their travels via www. followoursilkroad.com.

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42 Gwangju Writes

The Healing Kimchi

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May 2017

ARTS & CULTURE

Written by Carlota Smith

A

midst the quick-moving people at Incheon International Airport, I struggled to usher myself inside the building. I followed the flow of moving bodies, the incomprehensible sound of various voices, the muffled melody of the air, the fleeting footsteps, and the horrifying screeching of luggage bags and trolleys. An officer at a counter verified my documents, then, with a traditional nod, gave me a stiff smile. I went down through the escalators and waited patiently by the luggage conveyor. Everyone seemed to be ecstatic, everybody except me.

I got my luggage and scurried to find the exit. Without a clue where to go, I started to have fears I never had in my life after a few minutes of waiting. I learned that nobody was there to fetch me. I would later learn that my friend, who was a minister’s wife, had prayed to God – her god – that someone would be kind enough to help me. Swallowing my shyness, I tried to ask some people about my destination, Gwangju. It was rather odd because all I knew was that I had to go to Gwangju. I did not know there could be two possibilities, either Gwangju, Gyeonggi-do, or Gwangju, Jeollanam-do. When I found that there were no more buses going to

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Gwangju at that time, I felt doomed.

Then, out of the blue, a couple came into view. I asked them to help me get to Gwangju, a city in the southern part of the country. The man said, “It must be Jeollanam-do.” He, fortunately, was bound to the same destination with his girlfriend, but he only had two tickets. I figured the man might have sensed the fear and pending tears in my eyes when he politely excused himself. I ended up talking to his girlfriend who hails from a province nearby the city I came from. The man then returned to us with a nod. At first, I did not understand. I thought the nod was for them to just go, but he said to me in his croaking, yet reassuring words, “Let us go to Seoul.” Many had booked their trips earlier, and he was able to exchange their tickets so we three could go together to Seoul from Incheon. I thought to myself, “What a kind man.”

I uttered my stunned thanks several times before he looked at me and asked me my name. After learning it, he again looked at me with distant eyes and asked me my age. I said I was 40, adding that I was married and had children in the Philippines.

This time, he smiled and, with careful words, asked me why I came to Korea. I explained I was on a student visa and that seemed to settle the man’s curiosities. My heart continued to pound, however, over the course of the long trip.

From one terminal to the other, we finally reached Gwangju, and there, in a dark corner beside the other buses, I saw my friend standing draped with a shawl. She placed the shawl on my shoulders and I said, jokingly, yet with an emotional sincerity, “I hate you.” We embraced and my friend said it would be a short drive. I politely said goodbye to the couple who had helped me; they returned a bow, and we parted ways.

It was a strange feeling to be there with my friend in the front seat of a car and trying to lighten the chat. I thought it was just because I was new to the place and because it was so cold; my lips were numb and so were my legs. She asked me how I felt, but her eyes were evasive. I kept telling myself that the coolness between us was just the outside temperature.

I stayed with my friend’s family, initially sharing a room with their

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43 daughter, then after a few days, my friend took the liberty to sleep in the room with me. I wasn’t comfortable with it because I had the luxury of my own bed back home, but since I was a transient, I had to make do. Night after night, I had to lull myself to sleep after long days at the academy she and her family ran. The fear was still there inside me.

Time passed, and slowly, things began to go well, all ill feelings were forgotten.

But then my relationship with my friend began to decline once again as my ego suffered blow after blow from her. She told me she could use some help with the household chores. At first, it was a hefty sum to swallow, especially when I had to tolerate underwear that had been left scattered around and wash them. I complied with my friend’s wishes at first, but as time wore on, so did my patience.

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More time passed, and I slowly discovered a lot of things. I learned why the people here seemed to move all at the same pace, a fact that was disturbing to most foreigners like me: It was their way of life.

I met amazing Gwangju people who showed me a better view of the Kimchi Country. It isn’t the spicy food that one will love in Korea but the people who are caring and generous.

They encouraged me to easily learn my way out of fear by mingling and being. At first, I had thought that Gwangju people were rude because of their strong accent and their vociferous nature, but as time went by, I understood their heart. I came to know that it is most probably the same as every human heart. My professors, Kang Seung-kwan, Oh Soon-ah, Guk Soon-ok and his wife Kang Mi-suk, and Professor Yiombi Thona were very supportive, too.

Professor Yiombi has been a great guide for not only did he constantly offer tips on how to survive in Korea, but also on how I could keep my family as an inspiration.

I began to meet people who were very different from my previous acquaintances. Most of them were good, warm, and generous souls.

They helped fan my passion to further my education and eventually stand on my own feet. I kept my hands at work even in my sleep. It was not difficult for me because I liked to learn, and studying satisfied my intellectual hunger. School was the remaining thing that kept me sane after my disappointing experience with this spicy, spinning country.

I began to love the kimchi and its peppery people, too.

I spent almost five months of my weekends with the Choi family in Gochang. They were so warm, and Mrs. Choi now holds a place in my heart – for even in her silent words, I knew she had the very warm heart of a loving mother. Her smile, I will always remember. It was a painful experience for me to give the Choi family up. I cried for them – for Yumi, their baby; and for Eun-ji and Yae-eun, the elder daughters who took after the good personality of their parents. I wouldn’t forget how the family brought me to my feet on my birthday and every low-spirited day of my first few months in Korea.

Mr. Choi’s friendly eyes and simple smile was a picture of a kind family man; it complimented Mrs. Choi’s bubbly and cheerful personality.

With this family, one would never feel sad. They certainly were a great family to know because they made me feel that I was a member of the family. They shared everything with

I learned Korean at the Maru Center from Teacher Kate and Sister Sukki.

I tried to enjoy the lessons and the language. Today, in my broken Korean, I can articulate what I want.

It would also be amiss not to mention that their sense of volunteerism is not superficial but real in even the smallest sense. These people who I met along the way slowly diffused my fears.

To this day, I bank on the experiences that have made me who I am in this Kimchi Country. I like to emulate not the kimchi alone but the warmth that it brings to any foreigner. The soothing effect that it has makes me crave it more and more as I spend my years here. I have learned much about these people and am still learning.

They have helped me become subtle with my judgement and fleeting with my emerging emotion. The kimchi has healed me.

May 2017

Eventually, I found my own niche apart from my friend and her family’s hagwon, despite my broken Korean and difficulty with Hangeul, and was finally at peace. I was broke, but I knew that money wasn’t everything.

I still had to complete one thing, though, and that was my education.

I often had a few moments to look back and ask myself about how I had responded to the situation with my friend. We had had a falling-out, and I know, too, that the faults might

me. They made each day very livable.

I ached for their company. It was stronger than my emerging emotion, stronger than my fear.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Finally, I decided to leave and find my own place. I couldn’t stand living in that environment of a broken family and watching my friend struggle.

I didn’t want to be a burden, and at the same time, I did not want to be burdened by the thought that she was in control of my life, my family, and my friends. My friend spoke of heresy, and I could only tell her that we all were heretics in our own way.

She became difficult to understand, so my leaving was the only solution.

have been magnified by many things.

But I guessed it served us better to be away from each other. She, too, had to write her own story.

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44 44

Book Review

The Vegetarian

by Han Kang

Written by Maddy Miller

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

May 2017

A

s foreigners, there are lots of things we implicitly observe without really understanding. One of these is the typical Korean response to mental health issues. I’ve known for some time that mental illness is not something generally understood or accepted, more so here than in the States, and that it is even sometimes vehemently rejected by one’s social peers. And, being a teacher, there have been times I’ve complained to coteachers about “problem” students, guiltily wondering if I am justified in complaining about them or if it isn’t actually the student’s fault. Sometimes you just know there is some deeper issue but can’t quite put your finger on what it might be, and the current educational system here often does not allow for support and diagnosis because of parents’ rigid maintenance of their child’s “normalcy.”

Crossing boundaries becomes a recurring theme for Yeonghye’s sister, In-hye. In-hye wonders whether she would have experienced greater freedom, knowing and being honest to her true self, if she had rejected the constraints society places on “normalcy.” In-hye feels a great burden of responsibility towards the family as the oldest child and desperately tries to salvage “normalcy” in her marriage when her artist husband cheats with Yeong-hye. Several months later, as she watches her sister devolve into a nonresponsive state, In-hye considers whether or not her sister may have experienced greater freedom by throwing off their family’s expectations.

Han Kang’s novel The Vegetarian depicts how important being “normal” is in society and that, as a deviation from “normal,” mental health problems are something to be stuffed down and hidden, something to be ashamed of.

Various family members’ thought processes on, and reactions to, the main character, Yeong-hye, developing schizophrenia, demonstrate how a Korean family may try to safeguard against any behavior that does not conform to “normal.” Even so, as the main character’s condition becomes more serious, it becomes clear that she cannot live a “normal” life.

A third idea that runs through the book is that of marriage and family within Korea. Generally, the older generation expects that their children will comply with the demands of society; if the children are not “normal,” parents believe they should “normalize” them. This is shown in a pivotal scene in the first third of the book during which Yeonghye’s family confronts her about her recent declaration of vegetarianism. As her mother attempts to force-feed her some meat, her father slaps her for rejecting said meat and for insubordination. Later on, when In-hye divorces her husband, a greater rift is created within the family.

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2017-05-02 �� 2:55:25

45 45

Movie Review

Seopyeonje Written by Cole Clouse

P

reface: Pansori is a musical storytelling style of Korea originating in the Joseon Dynasty. Consisting of only a singer and a drummer, pansori is a very guttural, deep, bellowing style of music. It is something that needs to be seen and heard in person to be truly appreciated.

Seopyeonje is not an easy film. The third film by this director that I have seen (The Taebaek Mountains and Chunhyang being the first and second, respectively), Im Kwon-taek has a tendency to show the true nature of his subjects. A lower-class, wandering musical trio travels from city to city. A stubborn, rigid father. A blind, reserved daughter. A headstrong, rebellious son. A dying, unappreciated music.

This is the foursome that makes up our story.

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All in all, Seopyeonje is a movie full of sorrow. It longs for the past. It knows the future is inevitable but is unsure of how to react accordingly. The familial drama is kept focused and tight. The outsiders to the family are inconsequential.

There are no side stories, sub-plots. The audience is given exactly what they need to understand the bigger picture and no more. It never gives an indictment on the changing times like other films of its kind might. It gives no answers, but instead, it points the viewer inward and poses far more questions than we started with.

Note: This video can be seen it its entirety with English subtitles on the YouTube page, KoreanFilmArchive.

THE AUTHOR Cole loves watching movies. Movies are meant to be watched. It’s a match made in heaven.

May 2017

Through his interaction with his children, it is obvious the father puts far more love into pansori than his family.

And herein lies the crossroads that Korea is still standing at to this day. If today’s younger generation does not care for their past and culture, how does one respond? It is a universal feeling that we will all go through as we age in life. Be it small social mores to larger cultural practices, what is the proper course of action we as societies should take? Pushing too hard can lead to alienation (the son) or placidity (the daughter). The history exists, but at what cost to the youth? And can pansori even exist without the passion needed to perform it? The father, hypocritical as it may be, scolds his daughter. “How can you not sound

It is not only the characters and screenplay that show a feeling of want. Jeolla residents will notice filming locations of Boseong and Naju just to name a few. The camera work is fantastic. Interspersed throughout the movie are longing shots of the trio hiking long distances to the next town, practicing their songs, singing to potential audiences along the way. The Korean equivalent to minstrels of years past.

The movie takes place in a time when Korea was going through a sudden upheaval in their economy, and they were making massive changes to the country. But the movie doesn’t focus much at all on this urbanization, and instead puts more emphasis on the countryside. More resistance to the changing times?

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The story itself is, on the surface, very basic. A widower twice over pushes his love for pansori onto his two children. The daughter accepts her lot in life, acquiescing to her father’s demands. The son follows the same path until eventually it becomes too much, and he strives to break out and forge his own path in life.

mournful in your singing when you have had the life I have given you?”

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46 Expat Living

Banking Services

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

May 2017

COMMUNITY

Written by GIC Staff * From Gwangju Guidebook , 3rd Edition

GENERAL BANK SERVICES — Opening a Bank Account: Simply take your alien registration card (ARC) to the branch office of your desired bank service, ask for an English-speaking staff member, and register accordingly.

— Overseas Remittance: When you make a remittance at the counter, you should show your identification (passport and ARC). The remittee’s name, phone number, and bank name and address, SWIFT code, and bank account number of the remittee are all needed.

— Currency Exchange: When you complete the form for currency exchange, you will need your basic personal information: name, social security number (or other citizen registration number) and phone number.

— Paying Utility Bills: Most financial institutions receive utility bills. Most banks have utility payment machines, so you can pay by “giro” or treasury bill, and check your account. The easiest way to pay your utility bills is by using an automatic transfer system. You can apply for this program at the counter.

— Using an ATM: ATMs are installed at banks, airports, major hotels, department stores, convenience stores, subway stations, and tourist attractions. If you have a foreign credit card, look for ATMs that have a “global” sign or the logo of your credit card company. NICE ATMs accept most foreign cards. Most ATMs operate in units of 10,000 won and 50,000 won, and some ATMs also issue 100,000 won checks.

ATM services and fees vary, but most operate from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Generally, there will be no ATM usage fees for withdrawals made before 4 p.m., as long as the ATM is for the same bank as the user’s card. For withdrawals after 4 p.m., during the weekend, or from a bank different from your own, expect ATM charges to be around 600 won to 1,000 won per withdrawal. ATMs located in convenience stores are open 24 hours a day, but the fees are generally higher (500 to 1,500 won).

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CARD ISSUANCES CREDIT CARD Your credit card can be connected to a bank account where the money will be deducted monthly. Usually the credit card company will send you a bill, and the money will be deducted automatically on an agreed date every month. First, card companies check the customer’s financial status. Then, they issue the card. Yearly administration fees depend on card companies.

Procedures for Getting a Credit Card 1. Applying online: Visit the bank website to apply.

– Complete an online bank certificate and reconfirm.

– Identification is required (ARC, passport, or driver’s license) 2. Applying directly at a bank – Required Documents: Identification (ARC, passport, or driver’s license) – Confirmation of Employment: Proof of employment, work insurance certificate – Documents of Tax Payments: Receipt for earned income tax withholdings, payslips – Application Form: Available at the bank – Personal seal (or signature) CHECK CARD A check card functions as a debit card, with the amount automatically deducted from the holder’s account when a purchase is made. Some card limitations may apply.

Procedures for Getting a Check Card 1. Applying online: Go to the bank website to apply. You will need the following: – Online bank certificate or confirmation by phone – Identification (ARC, passport, or driver’s license) 2. Applying directly at the bank – Required Documents: Identification (ARC, passport, or driver’s license) – Bankbook (can be made on the same day) – Application Form: Available at the bank

2017-05-02 �� 2:55:25

47 Survival Korean includes the most essential Korean phrases you need to know while traveling or living in Korea. The expressions come with detailed explanations as well as fun and useful information about the situation where they are used.

Talk to Me In Korean

Banking

Talk To Me In Korean and Seoulistic are proud to present to you

Survival Korean!

Make your stay in Korea much easier and enjoy it to the fullest with Survival Korean!

Whether you are just traveling or living in Korea, this book, the perfect size that can fit right in your purse, will come in handy whenever you want something. 통장 만들고 싶어요. [tong-jang man-deul-go si-peo-yo.]: I would like to open a bank account. 통장 is the word for “bankbook,” but it can also be used to refer to bank accounts. Although opening a bank account with a passport is possible, you may not have all the options available to you that a legal resident of Korea does. As an expat, the most important form of identification that will allow you to open a bank account with full benefits (among other things) is an Alien Registration Card (ARC).

EDUCATION

송금 [song-geum]: wire transfer 돈 보내고 싶어요. [don bo-nae-go si-peo-yo.]: I’d like to send money. 송금 is the noun for “wire transfer” or “remittance.” Domestic wire transfers, 국내 송금 [gung-nae song-geum], are mostly free of charge and are instantaneous (see tip below). Transfers can be done on smartphones quite easily.

For international wire transfers, 국제 송금 [guk-jje song-geum], however, there are numerous fees. 돈 찾고 싶어요. [don chat-kko si-peo-yo.]: I want to withdraw some money.

This phrase literally means “I want to find money” but is often used to tell bank tellers or employees that you would like to withdraw money from your account. If you go to a bank and someone (usually the security guard) asks you what you want to do, use this phrase to tell him/her that you need some cash, and you will be pointed in the appropriate direction. 환전 [hwan-jeon]: currency exchange 환율 [hwa-nyul]: exchange rate 환전해 주세요. [hwan-jeo-nae ju-se-yo.]/ 돈 바꿔 주세요. [don ba-kkwo ju-se-yo.]: Please exchange my currency. / Please change my money.

This phrase can be used at banks as well as currency exchange shops.

(currency) + -(으)로 바꿔 주세요. [(currency) eu-ro ba-kkwo ju-se-yo.]: Please change to ... 미국 달러로 바꿔 주세요. [mi-guk ttal-leo-ro ba-kkwo ju-se-yo.]: Please change to American dollars. 원으로 바꿔 주세요. [wo-neu-ro ba-kkwo ju-se-yo.]: Please change to (Korean) won.

OTHER CURRENCIES:

캐나다 달러

[won] (Korean) won [mi-guk ttal-leo] American dollars [hong-kong ttal-leo] Hong Kong dollars [sing-ga-po-reu ttal-leo] Singaporean dollars [kae-na-da ttal-leo] Canadian dollars

파운드 유로 엔 페소 중국 위안

[pa-un-deu] Pounds [yu-ro] Euros [en] Yen [pe-so] Pesos [jung-guk wi-an] Chinese yuan

This book extract from Survival Korean is available at MyKoreanStore.com

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May 2017

원 미국 달러 홍콩 달러 싱가포르 달러

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여기 ATM 있어요? [yeo-gi e-i-ti-em i-sseo-yo?]: Is there an ATM here? 현금 인출기 어디에 있어요? [hyeon-geum in-chul-gi eo-di-e i-sseo-yo?]: Where is the ATM? ATM is the term for “automated teller machine”; however, the older and native Korean term 현금 인출기 is sometimes used instead.

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48 KOTESOL

Leadership for the EFL Teacher?

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

May 2017

EDUCATION

Written by Dr. David Shaffer

LEADERSHIP: WHAT IS IT? Teachers’ association officers, school principals, educational institution administrators, and government agency officials…. These are the types of people we most readily associate with leadership roles in the field of EFL (English as a Foreign Language). Important? Yes, they are.

But this article suggests that arguably the most important leadership roles in EFL lie with the classroom teacher.

Great leaders believe that they can attain great results. Great leaders set goals and strive to attain them. Great leaders make sure that the goals set become the day-to-day priorities of those in their charge. Great leaders plan carefully and purposefully to make sure that they achieve their objectives. And great teaching requires great leadership.

It is not uncommon to be sitting in a teachers’ lounge, listening to a teacher complain about a class of students he has: “They don’t do their homework; they’re late for class; they don’t pay attention…” And then there’s this other teacher who teaches the same class of students saying that she doesn’t have any of those problems with them in her course.

What’s the difference? It can’t be the students; the students are the same.

It could be the courses; they are different. But what most likely makes the difference is the teacher and the leadership qualities they exude.

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Young people are great copycats: they are masterful at replicating behavior that they are exposed to. If the teacher strolls into class late, doesn’t appear to have done much preparation for class, goes through the motions of teaching the lesson, and doesn’t seem to care much about how much the students learn, their students will quite likely exhibit similar behavior.

But if a teacher is on time, comes prepared, and cares about what they teach, how they teach, and what the results may be, they can expect to see a similar response in their students. That teachers’ lounge teacher complaining about his students should more rightfully be

complaining about himself, about his lack of leadership.

What I see as a misconception by many well-intentioned teachers, native speakers especially, is the idea that they can best relate to their students by trying to be a “friend.” The fallacy here is that a “friend” does not bring out the very best in students.

What students are more interested in, I submit, is a role-model, a parentfigure, and an authority-figure all rolled into one – someone for them to emulate, someone who counsels with empathy, but someone who still gives them that needed “push” to excel. The teacher who tries to be a “friend,” to

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49 the Korean student, in particular, is often viewed as too old to be a friend and too lenient to be taken seriously.

Students are looking for direction, for guidance, for leadership.

TEACHING PRINCIPLES Every teacher should have a set of teaching principles that they espouse – a set of propositions upon which one’s teaching is based – and leadership should be incorporated in this set. But it is not enough to just have a set of teaching principles; the teacher must truly believe in these principles, follow them on a daily basis, and follow them sincerely. The teacher who believes in their set of principles can achieve great things and can receive great results, as a teacher and as a leader.

SETTING GOALS High achievement results from setting goals…period. And this applies to the EFL student as well as to the EFL teacher. The teacher takes the lead in setting goals for the class, but true leadership is exhibited when the students in the class espouse these goals as their own and mindfully set out to achieve them.

Teacher commitment to the goals results in student commitment to those same goals. As with any goals set, there should be long-term goals supplemented with mid-term and short-term goals. Work backwards on setting goals. For example, if the long-term goal is writing a fiveparagraph essay, one mid-term goal may be to write an introductory paragraph, and some short-term goals may be to write a thesis statement and an attention-grabber.

Little steps before bigger ones. But all guided by leadership.

PLAN PURPOSEFULLY A good teacher knows one’s students – their needs, their wants, their strong points, their weaknesses. And the good teacher plans carefully and purposefully. In addition to setting achievable goals for their students, the teacher must arm the students with efficient strategies to attain those goals. Set your sights big, but start small. If the long-term goal is to summarize a 2,000-word article in 200 words, have the students begin by summarizing a 300word passage in 30 words, and work up.

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A great teacher is a great leader.

THE AUTHOR

David E. Shaffer is Vice-President of the GwangjuJeonnam Chapter of Korea TESOL (KOTESOL).

On behalf of the Chapter, he invites you to participate in the teacher development workshops at their monthly meetings (always on a Saturday). For many years, Dr. Shaffer has been a professor of English Language at Chosun University, where he has taught graduate and undergraduate courses.

He is a long-time member of KOTESOL and a holder of various KOTESOL positions, including First Vice-President and Publications Committee Chair. Dr. Shaffer credits KOTESOL for much of his professional development in English language teaching. He is also editor-inchief of Gwangju News.

GWANGJU-JEONNAM KOTESOL MONTHLY MEETING Date: Saturday, May 20 Place: Gwangju National University of Education Two Main Session Presentations on EFL Topics SwapShop – Share with the group an activity or teaching idea that you have.

For full event details: Website: koreatesol.org/gwangju Facebook: Gwangju-Jeonnam KOTESOL

May 2017

Remember that just as learning a new language is hard work, being a teacher and leading your students on the path to learning that language is hard work. The qualities of a good teacher include content knowledge, pedagogical skills, understanding,

respect, authority, and even a dash of humor, but most importantly, Leadership.

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STUDENT AWARENESS If a teacher sincerely believes in their own teaching principles, the student will certainly pick up on this. The student will recognize the teacher’s commitment to not just “teaching,” but to learners actually learning what is being taught. It is one thing to set principles such as “instruction should be challenging” and “learning should involve student inquiry,” but it is quite another to ensure that every activity challenges the students and that each task involves student discovery.

When the teacher is committed to student learning, the student is instilled with a commitment to learning – another way in

which the teacher demonstrates leadership.

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OPINION

50 OP-ED

AI and the Buddha

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

May 2017

Written by Matt Furlane Photo courtesy of Koo Yoon-sung

L

ast year, Google’s artificial intelligence (AI) program, “Alphago,” defeated South Korea’s 9-dan, 18-time world champion Lee Sedol four games to one in the game of “Go” (baduk).

Like the 1997 defeat of chess grand master Gary Kasparov

by IBM’s “Deep Blue,” the match-up between AlphaGo and Lee Sedol was considered a watershed moment in AI development because no computer program had ever beat a high-level player like Sedol at Go and most AI experts said that it wouldn’t happen in this decade.

Although both AI “victories” were great for publicity they have caused concern about the future of humanity. Some are speculating that AI and automation will eliminate not only labor intensive factory jobs but white collar jobs as well, leading to widespread economic disruption and political instability. Westerners, in particular, highlight

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these negatives and also frequently reference films like The Terminator in which the global AI “SkyNet” learns at a “geometric” rate and decides to wipe out humanity. More recently, SpaceX CEO Elon Musk has donated $10 million to the “Future of Life Institute” and warned that AI may get out of control, so we need to regulate its development.

And noted British physicist Stephen Hawking has helped fuel hyperbolic tech headlines by warning that AI could “spell the end of the human race.”

In contrast to this western techno-angst, the Japanese have long held a more benign, almost cute, view of robots and AI. In Tokyo, you can go to noodle shops or hotels staffed by robots or talk with the emotional robot called “Pepper” at a mobile phone store. In the future robots may help the elderly, play with your children, or provide you with a domestic partner that you can legally marry like men have recently done in both China and Japan. But there is

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51 another possibility besides replacement or termination – there is the possibility of enlightenment. Since May is the traditional month to celebrate Buddha’s birthday, and Buddhism challenges us to think about our humanity, I will touch upon this tradition as a way to understand the AI revolution.

There are many popular concepts within Buddhism like Dharma, Karma, and Nirvana. But I want to focus on the term bhodi, which is often translated as “enlightenment” but is more accurately understood as “awakening.” One way of describing the process of reaching enlightenment is to imagine the mind as a lake. In the present world, many things happen to trouble the waters of this lake, creating waves in our mind that make it difficult to think and to see life clearly. One must learn to calm the waters of the mind.

In some parts of the Buddhist tradition, this is achieved through meditation and the lifelong journey of “blowing out” of the mind all of the fictional desires and needs of modern life. When this starts to happen, the pure ring of a bell, dust floating in a ray of light, or water rippling on a pond takes on a greater existential meaning.

But what if you could skip the teachings, meditation and the life journey? What if you could download a smartphone app that is already ‘awakened’ and free from greed, hate, or delusion and have it right in your pocket (with a monthly data plan, of course)? What if AI could bring us the reincarnated Buddha in silicon form, giving us instant Bhodi, just like we have instant noodles?

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Like Siri or Alexa, you could have it in your phone, home, or car and it would respond to your voice. You could instantly request ancient sutras or ask questions like “What is true compassion?” and “What is consciousness?”. Far from creating an apocalypse, the future development of AI could actually help us be better human beings by giving us instant access to a pure mind.

But, then again, maybe there is something more to intelligence than pure logic and super computation. If it’s true that we evolved (or were created), then there must be a specific reason that we have bodies that feel pain and joy in the physical world. Maybe the Achilles heel of AI is that it will never have a body suited to our environment, so it can never truly be equal with us and thus never provide humanity with ultimate wisdom. Maybe the invention of AI will show us that people are irreplaceable after all. That it’s good to be human. This would be very enlightening.

THE AUTHOR

Matt is an English teacher from the United States and he has a bachelor’s degree in political science and an associate’s degree in electronics engineering. He took up photography and journalism after he graduated and still relies heavily on a spell checker for words like “necessary” and “Mississippi.”

May 2017

Presently, artificial intelligence is not really intelligence at all but more accurately described as hyper-nichecomputation. One could even argue that AlphaGo technically did not “win” because Sedol can drink water, reproduce, and adapt to his environment without a team of Google engineers managing his hardware. Additionally Sedol’s brain only uses about 20 watts of power; by some estimates, AlphaGo consumed 1,000,000 watts of power.

And according to tech blogs like “Cevas Experts” and “Jacques Mattheij,” AlphaGo required more than 1200 CPUs, 170 GPUs, and 100 scientists to run it. It was less a

But, however primitive modern AI currently is, experts like Musk, Hawking, and Bill Gates say it will only be a matter of time(estimates range from 15 to 50 years) before we develop a super-intelligence that is capable of surpassing human-level thought. And this brings us back to the possibility of instant bhodi. Although companies are investing billions of dollars in commercial research to create new products, someone could still eventually develop a pocket-size silicon Buddha that would in theory accelerate human enlightenment.

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I think it’s possible, but some perspective is needed.

Currently, aspects of AI are used for speech recognition, self driving cars, medical analysis, facial recognition, weather forecasting, data processing, and stock trading.

If you have used GPS, Google, Apple’s Siri, or Amazon’s Echo-Alexa, then you have already used AI in your everyday life. But none of these things are genuinely “intelligent”; they are just small slices of what the mind does. The human brain has close to 100 billion neurons, so exact replication is currently impossible, and saying that computers “think” is like stating a jet can fly the same as a bird.

competition and more of a Google “Deep Mind” marketing event. If Lee Sedol had played 10 games with a team of 100 top Go players in a back room to assist him then the outcome would have been different.

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52

Community Board

Have something you want to share with the community?

Gwangju News Community Board provides a space for the community to announce club activities and special events.

Please contact gwangjunews@gic.or.kr for more information.

UNESCO KONA VOLUNTEERS KONA Storybook Center (KSC) is a registered small public library supported by UNESCO KONA Volunteers (UKV). UKV is a registered organization that helps disadvantaged children to learn English independently through storybooks and story-maps. We guide the family and children to develop a love of reading storybooks in English. We also give guidance to volunteers in using storybooks. We are looking for long-term volunteers who desire to enrich their lives. We are asking volunteers to commit to helping at least once a month.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

May 2017

The days of KONA volunteering and the facilities are as follows: 1. KONA Storybook Center Every Saturday, 3–5 pm 2. Gwangju Children’s Home 1st, 2nd, and 4th Saturday, 3rd Sunday, 3–5 pm 3. Grandmother’s Community Children’s Center 4th Friday, 4–6 pm For more information, please visit http://cafe.daum.net/konavolunteers or our Facebook page of KONA Storybook Center and UNESCO KONA Volunteers, or contact Kim Young-Im 062-434-9887, or email konacenter@gmail.com GWANGJU ANIMAL SHELTER VOLUNTEERING Every Sunday. Meet at The First Alleyway at 12 for brunch and carpool to the shelter.

Walk dogs between 1–4 pm.

Please wear comfortable clothing.

See you there!

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GWANGJU INTER FC The Gwangju International Soccer Team (Gwangju Inter FC) plays regularly every weekend. If you are interested in playing, email: gwangju_soccer@yahoo.com or search “Gwangju Inter FC” on Facebook.

GWANGJU ART CLASS GIC, 2nd Floor, Room 3 12:30–3:00 pm, Saturdays Facebook: Gwangju Art Class Welcome art lovers and sketch enthusiasts from Gwangju and surrounding areas.

We are here to revive the art community in Gwangju and bring artists closer together through weekly drawing classes.

The classes are for anyone interested in developing their artistic skill, any age or level. Each class focuses on various exercises and art principles. We work with still life and nude model life drawing.

TUESDAY NIGHT YOGA GIC Hall, 1st Floor 7–8 pm, Thursdays Facebook: Gwangju Yoga with Emily This is a weekly class appropriate for all levels. Beginners and advanced practitioners alike are encouraged to join.

GWANGJU FILIPINO ENGLISH TEACHERS (GFET) Every 3rd Tuesday of the month 10 am - 12 noon, GIC, Room 3 (2F) We are a group of Filipino English teachers in Gwangju who conduct regular accent training and lectures to help fellow English teachers to become better educators.

GIC ZUMBA WITH THANDO GIC Hall, 1st floor, GIC 7-8 pm, Thursdays Facebook: GIC Zumba With Thando Zumba is BACK at the GIC! It is a fun-filled cardio class fits all levels, no experience needed.

Come get the body back for summer and have fun while you are at it.

Midweek fitness party.

Dress comfortably and be ready to sweat. Also, bring along water and a towel.

GWANGJU UKULELE CIRCLE Global Lounge Gallery, 1st floor, GIC 1:30–3:00 pm Every 2nd and 4th Sunday http://carleenkirksey.wixsite.com/ gwangjuukecircle Gwangju Ukulele Circle is an open group playing ukulele songs together.

It’s a great way to make sure you keep practicing and learning new chords and songs. A chord chart and music is available on the website under “song sheets,” so you can practice and become accustomed to the songs we’ll play that week and the chords we’ll use. All levels are welcome! Bring your ukulele to the GIC for the next circle!

AUDITIONS No Man’s Land GIC Hall, 1st floor, GIC 1–4 pm, May 13 & 14 http://www.gwangjutheatre.com/ All artists welcome!

Looking for dancers, choreographers, graphic designers, musicians, poets, a videographer, a stage manager and anyone willing to share their movement and dance experiences.

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Attorney Attorney Park’s Park’s Law Law Firm Firm We're ready to serve your best interests in legal disputes.

We provide affordable consultation & representation.

▶ Areas of Specialty contracts, torts, family law, immigration, labor ▶ Civil & Criminal Attorney Park, Duckhee

former judge, GIC board member Services available in Korean, English & Chinese

#402 Simsan Bldg, 342-13 Jisan-dong, Dong-gu, Gwangju Location: next to Gwangju District Court

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Tel: 062) 222-0011 Fax: 062)222-0013 duckheepark@hanmail.net

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