[EN] Gwangju News July 2019 #209

Gwangju and South Jeolla International Magazine I July 2019 #209 Interview with Dr. Julio Maglione, FINA President

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1 Gwangju & South Jeolla Intern ational Magazine

July 2019, Issue No. 209

Published: July 1, 2019 Cover Photo Dr. Julio Maglione

Photograph by FINA

THE EDITORIAL TEAM Publisher Editor-in-Chief Managing Editors Production Editor Layout Editor Photo Editor Proofreaders Online Editorial Team Researchers

Dr. Shin Gyonggu Dr. David E. Shaffer Karina Prananto, William Urbanski Isaiah Winters Karina Prananto Sarah Pittman Joey Nunez, Elisabeth Loeck, Gilda Wilson, Stephen Redecker, Tara Kulash Karina Prananto, Shahed Kayes Baek Ji-yeon, Yoo Yeon-woo

The Gwangju News is the first English monthly magazine for the general public in Korea, first published in 2001. Each monthly issue covers local and regional issues, with a focus on the roles and activities of the international residents and local English-speaking communities.

Copyright © 2019 by the Gwangju International Center. All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by this copyright may be reproduced in any form or by any means – graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise – without the written consent of the publisher.

Registration No. 광주광역시 라. 00145 (ISSN 2093-5315) Registration Date: February 22, 2010 Printed by Join Adcom 조인애드컴 (+82)-62-367-7702 For volunteering and article submission inquiries, please contact the editor at gwangjunews@gic.or.kr.

Special thanks to Gwangju City and all of our sponsors.

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You may have seen that Gwangju Vice-Mayor Jeong Jong-je was recently scheduled to give a GIC Talk at the Gwangju International Center. If you missed it, read our feature report of his talk on humanities, human rights, and security to see how it was influenced by “the music of Bob Dylan, the art of Van Gogh, and the sober tales of Albert Camus.”

The wounds of the Indonesian Killings of 1965–66 are still evident in the lives of many who experienced that tragic period of history. Read our feature on the Dialita Choir to see how their song contributes to the healing of trauma for so many, including members of their choir, and why they are the recipients of this year’s Special Award of the Gwangju Prize for Human Rights.

You may remember, like I do, the mid-1970s discovery in the Shinan area of a 14th-century sunken vessel loaded with Korean celadon. Our feature on this and other sunken treasures reveals the secrets that the sea has given up and how they have triggered the creation of the National Research Institute of Maritime Cultural Heritage.

Tucked in the foothills surrounding Hwasun is the asyet little-known Chonnam National University Hwasun Hospital, providing advanced medical care for international patients. Read our feature on this outstanding medical center to discover why it is the only national hospital in Korea to receive the Ministry of Health and Welfare’s accreditation as a hospital serving foreign patients.

What are Gwangju’s five Ss? What do green grapes and the Japanese occupation of Korea have in common? What draws English teachers to Korea? What was this year’s GIC Day like? Why should you have already visited Jeonju?

What are tattletale apps? How puzzling is this month’s crossword puzzle? What are the dead ends of urban exploring in Gwangju. Where should you be hiking and trail running outside of Gwangju? Learn the answers to these questions and about many other “heated” topics in this July issue of the Gwangju News.

David E. Shaffer Editor-in-Chief Gwangju News

July 2019

For advertising and subscription inquiries, please contact karina@gic.or.kr or 062-226-2733.

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s the dog days of Korea’s summer approach, we bring you another “hot” issue of the Gwangju News. July hosts the FINA World Championships here in Gwangju, so we provide you with an exclusive interview with the FINA president, Dr. Julio Maglione, as our cover feature.

We include a schedule of the aquatic events and their venues in the hope that you do have a chance to take in some of the events. They are sure to make a splash!

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

The Gwangju News is published by Gwangju International Center, Jungang-ro 196-beon-gil 5 (Geumnam-ro 3-ga), Dong-gu, Gwangju 61475, South Korea Tel: (+82)-62-226-2733~34 Fax: (+82)-62-226-2731 Website: www.gwangjunewsgic.com Email: gwangjunews@gic.or.kr GwangjuNews gwangjunews

From the Editor

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Photo of the Month

By Yunkyoung “Hillel” Kim

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2019

ARTS & CULTURE

Gaze

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his picture of a green barley field was taken near Songsan Park in Gwangju. It was such a special day that I could finally have a peaceful moment after a long time.

The Author

Yunkyoung “Hillel” Kim is a priest of the Anglican Church and a portrait photographer. He just moved to Gwangju with his wife and has been assigned to a new church.

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CONTENTS

JULY 2019. Issue No. 209 MONTHLY NEWS 04. Gwangju City News 52. July 2019 Happenings 55. Community Board FEATURES 06. The FINA World Championships: “A Great Show” 10. GIC Talk: Humanities, Human Rights, and Security Review 12. The Dialita Choir: Healing Trauma and Unmasking the Truth Through Song 15. Advanced Medical Care for International Patients Chonnam National University Hwasun Hospital 18. The Return of the Celadons: A Visit to the National Research Institute of Maritime Cultural Heritage TRAVEL 22. Lost in Gwangju: Odds and (Dead) Ends 26. Blast from the Past: Geumseong-sanseong – Hiking on History 28. Around Korea: Three Reasons Why You Should Have Visited Jeonju a Long Time Ago! 30. From Abroad: My Dream Diary

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GIC Talk: Humanities, Human Rights, and Security Review

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The Dialita Choir

SPORTS & OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 33. Trail Running in South Korea EDUCATION 35. Everyday Korean: Episode 19 – 단위명사 Counting Units 36. Korea TESOL: Why Do L1 English Speakers Teach in Korea?

FOOD & DRINKS 38. Ahorita: A Taste from South of the Border 40. Bibim-myeon: Spicy Cold Noodles

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The 25th Gwangju International Community Day

July 2019

OPINION 50. Point, Shoot, Snitch: The Rise of Tattletale Apps

Geumseong-sanseong

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

ARTS & CULTURE 02. Photo of the Month 42. Photo Essay: The 25th Gwangju International Community Day 46. Book Review: Eight Voices of Korean Short Fiction Speaking Out 47. Gwangju Writes: Gwangju City’s Five Ss 48. Gwangju Writes: Green Grapes 55. Gwangju News Crossword Puzzle

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Gwangju City News

MONTHLY NEWS

Reprinted with permission from Gwangju Metropolitan City Hall Photograph courtesy of Gwangju Metropolitan City Hall

Gwangju Strengthens Cooperation with the UN to Promote Human Rights

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www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2019

wangju, a representative world human rights city, is strengthening its cooperation with the United Nations to promote human rights. Gwangju, along with the United Nations, will promote international human rights education for Asian countries and co-host the 2020 World Human Rights Cities Forum.

Gwangju Mayor Lee Yong-sup met with UN Deputy High Commissioner of Human Rights Office (UN OHCHR) Kate Gilmore in Geneva, Switzerland, on June 17, and it was decided to share UN educational contents, professional instructors, and know-how for international human rights education.

The international human rights education will be conducted jointly by Gwangju and KOICA in order to strengthen the human rights policy expertise of Asian countries and to promote human rights. The UN decided to discuss concrete cooperation with Gwangju through its Korean office.

Gwangju will also co-host the United Nations High

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Commissioner for Human Rights and the Global Forum on Human Rights Cities in May of next year to commemorate the 40th anniversary of the May 18 Democratic Uprising.

The mayor delivered a letter to Gilmore and invited Michelle Bachelet, former Chilean president, to the forum.

To this, Gilmore said, “We will discuss the joint holding of the forum to enable the United Nations and Gwangju to share the value and vision of human rights with a successful collaboration model.”

Meanwhile, the mayor also attended the United Nations and Local Governments Conference on Human Rights in Geneva and expressed a practical task: “Human rights cities should be an important guide for the management of cities.”

The mayor was invited to the conference as a cochair of UCLG-CSIPDHR (the United Cities and Local Governments – Committee on Social Inclusion, Participatory Democracy, and Human Rights). “The ultimate goal of a human rights city is the realization of

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5 a human rights community where everyone lives happily.

In an era where citizens’ self-determination and autonomy are emphasized, a human rights city should become an important city development vision,” said the mayor, expressing a second task.

For this, the mayor said, “Various stakeholders from the local community, such as civil society and companies, should cooperate for the realization of the human rights protection system.”

Mayor Lee also introduced “Gwangju-suited jobs.” “More and more workers,” he said, “have good jobs through social cohesion, and this is part of the promotion of human rights. Gwangju pursues the creation of a human rights community for those in difficulty economically and socially.”

The mayor continued, “We must build a strong partnership with international organizations including the United Nations, the national government, and local governments.

We will meet again at the 2019 World Human Rights Cities Forum in Gwangju in September, and I hope we will be able to discuss in detail innovative measures to strengthen the global human rights alliance.”

Afterwards, Gilmore said, “The Gwangju mayor’s proposal emphasizes that we must unite to protect the happiness and human rights of citizens while maintaining diversity and specificity. Local governments now need leadership like that of Gwangju to lead in making a big change.”

More than 100 people from 20 human rights cities attended this event, including Rome, Barcelona, Mexico City, Vienna, Geneva, Paris, Atlanta, Kathmandu, and Ulaanbaatar.

ourses for the 2019 Namdo Bus Tour program will be adjusted considering the heat of summer. The program will also provide special packages for overseas visitors during the 2019 Gwangju FINA World Aquatics Championships.

The newly introduced tour routes will connect the city to the islands off the southwestern coast, beaches, night views, museums, wine caves, temples, and forests. The tours will run three times on weekdays, eight times on Saturdays, and nine times on Sundays.

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Foreign Residents Must Join the National Health Insurance Service from July

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ll foreigners who reside in South Korea for six months or longer must join the country’s health insurance program beginning in July of this year. According to the National Health Insurance Service (NHIS), the new rules that are set to take effect on July 16 will have all foreigners, including Korean expatriates residing in the country, pay over 113,000 won per month for health insurance.

At present, only foreigners who work here are required to pay for health insurance, while non-working foreign residents here can subscribe to the program if they choose to. The NHIS said that foreign students and those married or marrying South Korean nationals are also required to join the state healthcare program. The NHIS predicts that the new mandatory insurance program will include 360,000 foreigners. Nonpayment will include the imposition of penalties such as limited medical service, difficulties in visa extension, and confiscation of assets.

Gwangju to Install Barrier-Free Bus Stops wangju City Hall announced plans to install 40 additional barrier-free bus stops for differently abled individuals. The barrier-free bus stops will not have unnecessary obstacles such as trashcans or flower pots nearby, so as to enable people with challenging physical conditions to use the facilities with more convenience.

Twenty-five barrier-free bus stops were installed in 2017 and an additional 20 in 2018. City Hall aims to increase the total number to 105 by 2021.

Choi Tae-jo, head of the Gwangju City Hall Public Transportation Division, pledged to exert full efforts to create more convenient conditions for all people to use buses in cooperation with related organizations.

July 2019

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For more information, please visit http://citytour.jeonnam. go.kr/ or call 062-360-8502.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Namdo Bus Tour to Be Connected to the FINA World Swimming Championships

The special tours for the FINA World Aquatics Championships include seven one-day programs and two overnight programs. The one-day programs are museum and ecology routes that will run between major local museums and well-known tourist nature sites, while the overnight programs are designed for weekends, covering UNESCO World Heritage sites and other historical places of interest.

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The FINA World Championships “A Great Show” Interview with Dr. Julio Maglione, FINA President

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July July 2019 2019

FEATURE FEATURE

Interviewed by the Gwangju News Team

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r. Julio Maglione is currently serving his third consecutive term as the president of FINA. A native of Uruguay, Dr. Maglione will continue to lead the world swimming governing body until 2021.

He is also the president of the Uruguayan Olympic Committee and an honorary member of the International Olympic Committee. Given his extensive experience and involvement with sports, it was a privilege to be able to get his perspective on the upcoming 18th FINA World Championships in Gwangju. The following questions were compiled by the Gwangju News staff and put to Dr. Maglione by Cho Namhee, who is now working for the FINA World Championships in Gwangju.

Gwangju News (GN): Could you tell us a little bit about yourself and your aquatic career?

Maglione: I was myself a swimmer, having competed internationally for Uruguay, my native country. As an athlete, I was the South American record holder, and I took part in the Pan-American and South American Games. After that, I became President of the Uruguayan Swimming Federation, and I am also today President of the Uruguayan Olympic Committee. Within FINA, I firstly entered the bureau, then I became honorary treasurer, and now president since 2009.

GN: The city selection process for the FINA Championships is quite competitive. What was it about the Gwangju proposal that made it the most attractive venue for this year’s event?

Maglione: The Gwangju proposal was quite attractive, and we knew Korea had an enormous potential to organize a major event of this caliber. Your country has hosted the summer and winter Olympic Games, as well as many other international events, and this accumulated

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experience is a precious asset to ensure successful organization of the FINA World Championships.

GN: How was Gwangju picked to be the host city? Please tell us more about the selection process.

Maglione: The bidding procedure is a demanding one, but FINA always tries to obtain from each of the candidates the maximum guarantees that the championships can be held in optimal conditions for all participants. The Gwangju bid was quite solid, and we have received those guarantees from both the city of Gwangju and the government of Korea.

GN: What special considerations, logistical or otherwise, are there with hosting the FINA World Championships in Gwangju?

Maglione: There are many, but I would highlight five of them: the quality of the venues, an efficient transportation plan, suitable accommodation, excellent TV coverage, and a good promotion plan. Gwangju promised it would focus its work and preparation on these topics, and we are quite confident of an excellent outcome during the month of July.

GN: Were any joint North and South Korean teams considered for this year’s FINA World Championships?

Maglione: This is a question that goes largely beyond FINA’s control. FINA is a universe of 209 nations, and we always like to say that through sport, we bring the world together in the spirit of friendship and peace. This is also the case for Gwangju, and as you know, FINA has recently made an appeal to the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea for their participation in these championships. We sincerely hope we can be successful with this request.

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GN: How can the FINA World Championships be used as a vehicle to improve swimming infrastructure here in Gwangju?

Maglione: The FINA World Championships leaves a strong legacy in both the city and the country organizing it. That was the case with Kazan 2015, where many of the temporary pools installed there were then used for other purposes, and for Budapest 2017, where the superb “Duna Arena” was constructed and is now the main aquatic complex of the Hungarian capital.

Moreover, having the best aquatic athletes on the planet in one’s city and country certainly motivates their youth to try our sport. Gwangju’s hosting of the FINA World Championships will generate a lot of interest from youth and children all around Korea. Many of today’s stars have initiated and are excelling in aquatic sports after watching their heroes on TV screens during their childhood. I am sure that some future Korean stars will say, in some years from now, that it all started by following their idols at these FINA World Championships in Gwangju.

Gwangju, but I still hope to have some free time to enjoy your beautiful city.

GN: Do you have any special message to our Gwangju News readers?

Maglione: FINA is very happy to be in Gwangju and to enjoy the fantastic hospitality of the Korean people. It is now your turn to show up and enjoy the championships in the excellent venues throughout the city. You will see a great show with the best stars of the aquatic world!

The Gwangju News would like to extend its warmest thanks to Dr. Maglione for taking part in this interview.

— Eds. Photographs courtesy of the 18th FINA World Championships Gwangju

GN: What do you expect to be the highlights of this year’s event?

Maglione: There will be a lot of highlights. The variety of the six FINA disciplines and the quality of their stars will provide a unique show with plenty of spectacular results and memorable images. In swimming, water polo, diving, artistic swimming, open water swimming, and high diving, the performances of the best athletes of the approximately 190 participating nations – a new record of participation – will delight the many spectators onsite and the many millions of TV and digital viewers around the world.

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▲ Artistic swimming (top), and water polo (bottom), one of the three forms of aquatic disciplines in the first half of the 18th FINA World Championships in Gwangju.

July July 2019 2019

GN: In addition to watching events, what plans do you have for your time in Korea?

Maglione: The FINA schedule in Gwangju is quite busy, with not only the competition but also meetings and our General Congress. We will have very intense days in

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GN: What do you think the reaction of Gwangju citizens will be during the hosting of the championships, especially since it is the very first time for such a grand event to be held in Korea?

Maglione: They will certainly be delighted to witness such a great show! The FINA World Championships is ranked among the most prestigious events on the planet, so it is a privilege to have this competition in your town, so close to you. I am sure the reaction will be very positive, and I hope to see the stands in the venues full of motivated fans.

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www.gwangjunewsgic.com JulyJuly 2019 www.gwangjunewsgic.com 2019

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* Village: World Championships Village 1085 Usan-dong, Gwangsan-gu, Gwangju

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All images and information in these pages are provided by the 18th FINA World Championships Gwangju – Promotion Team.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com July 2019 www.gwangjunewsgic.com July 2019

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FEATURE FEATURE

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Humanities, Human Rights, and Security Review

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2019

Written by Farida Muhammed

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hen I heard there was going to be a GIC Talk at the Gwangju International Center entitled “Humanities, Human Rights, and Security,” my mind began to race with ideas. The relationship these very relevant and important academic fields of knowledge share with one another is well known and complex. I wondered how they would come together at this meeting.

Most people are familiar with the music of Bob Dylan, the art of Van Gogh, and the sober tales of Albert Camus.

Their contributions to their respective fields of art have fostered an ever deepening understanding of the “human experience,” which entails not just personal bouts of

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romance and tragedy, but also philosophical ideas and questions of purpose and rights. Inspired by the lives, art, or tragic ends of these men and the philosophical meaning their contributions have made to humanity, Vice Mayor Jeong Jong-je gave a GIC Talk on human rights, safety, and the humanities.

Inspired during his childhood, when his talent for creating imaginative stories was realized, and by the art, nature, and experiences he had in Paris, Vice Mayor Jeong Jong-je wrote a novel called “Email from Paris.” The novel chronicles the fragile relationship between two people

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11 who meet online as penpals and fall in love over stories they share with one another about the great contributors to the fields of literature, art, music, and philosophy.

Every seat was full at this event, with light string music playing in the background as the vice mayor led us on this duo’s journey of romance and intrigue, with the two protagonists’ budding relationship blossoming before us.

As the characters in the novel discussed important figures within the humanities, Vice Mayor Jeong stopped along the way to provide the audience a deeper look into the lives of these figures. In the case of Albert Camus, whose life was taken in an automobile accident, the speaker highlighted how this matter touched him because, unlike in the times of Camus, tragedies like this are today easily preventable thanks to developments in public safety policy and advancements in technology.

Today, Gwangju Metropolitan City has made a clear commitment to public safety, and the city is proud to call itself one of the safest cities in Korea. In the 2017– 18 time period, there were notable decreases in suicides and car accidents. Suicide, a common challenge for cities in modern times, has seen a decrease over the year that could point to community initiatives reaping the benefits of their labor. At the heart of this issue is the concept that what may be overlooked as a not-so-important event by others, such as the suicide of an unknown person or a car accident, is never felt that way by the loved ones of that individual. It is in fact a shame to lose human life to a senseless event that, with proper oversight and planning, could be prevented.

Later during the presentation’s Q&A session, an audience member asked about the efforts of the city to further combat the issue of suicide and for more information on the nature of such challenges. At that point, it was revealed that a demographic very vulnerable to suicide is the elderly. In an effort to protect this group, initiatives such as a community outlook and call center that can connect with this community and offer support to counter the proliferation of suicide have been developed.

Against this somber tone of death and senseless loss of life, we were offered hope when the vice mayor characterized it as “a healing time.” It is a time for us to celebrate our achievements in the face of adversity and to be inspired by the experiences and illustrations of this thing we call the “human experience.” It is through this reflective thinking, which many of us encounter through the humanities, and coming together that we advance our goals in human rights and safety. Walking away from the event, there was a great sense of hope and inspiration, and it is this renewal of the soul that makes events such as the GIC Talk so special.

Photographs by Sarah Pittman

The Author

Farida is an English teacher, avid reader, and novice writer living in the Jeonam region.

Before Korea, she lived in Spain, where she taught English, and prior to that worked in the field of human rights and migrants rights in the U.S. She has a degree in political science, Spanish, and international relations, and her main fields of interest are immigration rights and sustainable development.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2019

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FEATURE FEATURE

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The Dialita Choir

Healing Trauma and Unmasking the Truth Through Song Written by Zico Mulia

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2019

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n every armed conflict or massive violent event, women and children are among the most vulnerable victims. This was evidenced by the Indonesian Killings of 1965–66, which wiped out the lives of more than half a million people at the end of President Sukarno’s regime. The 1965–66 incident was considered one of the bloodiest and most controversial incidents in the country’s multifaceted history, one in which disseminating information, or even mentioning the slaughter in public, was not permitted.

In the face of threats and repression, a choir consisting of mothers, wives, and daughters of victims of the 1965– 1966 mass killings has made waves in the country. Their name is Dialita (meaning “Di Atas Lima Puluh” or “Above 50 Years Old”) since all of the choir members are over fifty years of age and sing songs about the massacre and other dismal incidents that have ravaged Indonesia over the past five decades. Their melodious voices, heartwrenching compositions, and mission have earned them this year’s Special Award of the Gwangju Prize for Human Rights (SPGPHR), an award bestowed by the May 18

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Memorial Foundation to individuals or organizations who work for the improvement of human rights by means of journalism, music, culture and literature, or other creative forms.

DIALITA MEMBERS’ TRAUMATIC STORY “Children must separate from their parents; parents lose their children, husbands lose their wives, and wives lose their husbands,” said Uchikowati, one of the members of Dialita, in a speech delivered during the SPGPHR awarding ceremony last May 18. She vividly recounts the tragedy that left an unimaginable amount of trauma for her and her fellow choir members.

The incident, which was considered part of the military coup of General Suharto against then-president Sukarno, left trauma, stigma, and discrimination against the families of the victims to this day. Suharto eventually became the country’s leading strongman from 1967 until his resignation in 1998.

“The trauma continued to live with us, the 1965–66 victims’

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13 families. And that haunts us all the time,” Uchikowati sai’d during our interview. She also said that when there are certain events, she and the victims’ families are fearful and become anxious because persecution of the 1965–66 victims and groups that tried to uncover the truth behind the tragedy has continued to occur in recent years.

SINGING AS PART OF TRAUMA HEALING AND REVEALING THE TRUTH Formed in 2011, Dialita currently consists of 20 members, two of whom were detained without trials during the authoritarian New Order regime from 1968 until the mid-1970s, and the 1965–66 mass killings victims’ families. Uchikowati herself, who was still a teenager during that time, was separated from her parents. Her father, a former mayor of Cilacap City in Central Java Province, was imprisoned for 15 years without trial.

Likewise, her mother was imprisoned for seven years.

Uchikowati explained that in 2011, they initially met with fellow family members of victims and survivors and, upon sharing their traumatic experiences and realizing their mutual passion for music, they decided to coalesce into a choir. “It turned out to be a relief,” she said while remembering those times. Before Dialita was formed, all members normally shied away from interacting with new people. However, as time passed by, the tension eventually eased and they opened up about their somber past. “When there was Dialita, meeting with new people became reinforcement for us,” said the 67-year-old.

The Dialita Choir first appeared in public in June 2012 during the launch of a 1965–66 mass killings book authored by a victim. Soon, the country’s National Commission on Violence Against Women invited them to perform at a fundraising event for female victims of state violence. “That’s where we started to get acquainted again, and we feel that someone wants to hear our voice even though our voices aren’t so good,” she said with a laugh. Up to the present, Dialita continues to perform across a number of stages and public spaces in several cities.

Dialita’s songs were composed by survivors and victims of the 1965–66 killings, including members of Dialita themselves. Their first album contains songs by victims and survivors who are both men and women, while the second album was solely created by female survivors.

Both albums, which contain ten songs each, narrate poignant tales of mothers, children, and victims of the tragedy, as well as the turmoil and struggles of victims during that time. “We sang the songs because the stories in them would not be heard if Dialita were not voiced,” Uchikowati added.

Young artists, composers, and musicians were involved in the making of both albums. Dialita believes that with the help of younger faces, their songs can evolve as music to the ears of young people who know little about the 1965– 66 killings. The choir’s collaboration with them bore fruit

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July 2019

The launching of the second album, “Salam Harapan” (Hope Greetings), in 2018.

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▲ Uchikowati delivered her speech on behalf of the Dialita Choir at the awarding ceremony of Gwangju Prize for Human Rights.

when 800 young people attended their 2017 concert in Jakarta.

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July 2019

The campaign effort of the elderly female choir group is increasingly widespread. Dialita has been invited several times to TV and radio shows. Prior to receiving the SPGPHR award in Gwangju, the choir guested on Kick Andy, a popular talk show in Indonesia, as part of their efforts to promote their second album.

MEANING OF THE AWARD AND DIALITA’S HOPE For Dialita, singing their songs was part of the recovery from trauma and the disclosure of the truth about the events of 1965–66. The SPGPHR award acknowledges Dialita’s work in the struggle for human rights and trauma healing through music. “This is an alternative to the struggle to address the cases of human rights violations in Indonesia that were previously carried out through advocacy, the political sector, and other fields,” she explains. The award also indicates that Dialita’s voices and musical influence have reached beyond the boundaries of Indonesia.

The habit of sharing and providing social assistance to victims had been carried out by some of Dialita’s members before Dialita was formed. They will donate a portion of the cash prize to the victims of the 1965–66 mass killings and are continuously raising funds for the medical expenses and social funds of the victims.

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In addition, Uchikowati expressed her hope that the Indonesian government would recognize the past atrocities and provide reparations for the victims and their families. “We ask the State to acknowledge that the 1965–66 events have taken place, which claimed many victims and leave trauma up to now,” she concluded, elucidating that the government’s recognition of the tragedy would change the doubts and misconceptions of people and prevent the recurrence of brutal human rights violations in the future.

Someday, Indonesia can replicate Gwangju, a city that recognizes the sacrifices of martyrs, provides ample reparations to survivors, and maintains collective memories of the May 18 Uprising and other violent incidents in the past.

Photographs courtesy of Dialita Choir and Kyounghun Choi (The May 18 Memorial Foundation)

The Author

Zico Mulia is a master’s degree student at Chonnam National University majoring in interdisciplinary NGO studies. He has worked for NGOs in the field of human rights and democracy in Indonesia for more than a decade. He is also the vice-president of the Indonesian Students Association in Korea and is actively involved in a number of cultural and socio-political activities in Gwangju and all over Korea.

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FEATURE

Advanced Medical Care for International Patients Chonnam National University Hwasun Hospital Written and photographed by CNU Hwasun Hospital Press Team

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Both Usenko Andrey (44, business owner) and his wife, Natalia Ivanova (45), from Novosibirsk, the third largest city in Russia, underwent surgery as treatment for cancer.

After surgery for thyroid cancer in 2012 from a well-

July 2019

Chekurov Mikhail (72, freelance sports reporter from Almaty, Kazakhstan) underwent an operation for melanoma performed at the CNU Hwasun Hospital at the end of last year. Prior to this operation, he had gone through procedures for cervical schwannoma in 2013 and

cholecystectomy in 2015 at the CNU Hwasun Hospital.

Mikhail, who had open heart surgery performed at Weill Cornell Medical Center 16 years ago, stated, “Once I thought America had the best medical care and Korea was way behind. However, the treatment from the CNU Hwasun hospital has changed my opinion completely.

If necessary, I will come back to this hospital for future treatment.”

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he Chonnam National University (CNU) Hwasun Hospital is a government-designated “hospital serving foreign patients” and is located just outside of Gwangju. The hospital specializes in cancer treatment for international patients and has high patient satisfaction. Its International Medical Center provides consultation services and convenience.

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16

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July 2019

▲ Surgery in progress.

known hospital in Israel, Andrey suffered aftereffects. He encountered a certain “Koryo-saram” (고려사람, ethnic Koreans in post-Soviet states) employee mentioning that “Korea’s medical care is quite good.” With the help of a local agency, Andrey decided to come to the CNU Hwasun Hospital. He had surgery for his thyroid cancer in 2013 and fully recovered. When his wife was diagnosed with colorectal cancer at a hospital in Seoul, she came directly to the CNU Hwasun Hospital for her surgery. With a smile, the two say that they would like to recommend this hospital rather than one of the big hospitals in Seoul.

The dedicated medical team with its advanced medical care and the pleasant natural environment makes it quite satisfying. They say that the hospital has given them new life and new hope.

The number of international patients visiting the CNU Hwasun Hospital is increasing and the services provided have been well received with high satisfaction.

The CNU Hwasun Hospital was the only national hospital in Korea appointed by the KAHF (Korean Accreditation Program for Hospitals Serving Foreign Patients). Among all of the Korean medical centers that applied, this was the one selected by the Ministry of Health and Welfare as the best center based on the following criteria: consultation in

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multiple languages, interpretation services, convenience, infection control, and being more related to the special services required by foreign patients.

Thanks to this designation as a hospital serving foreign patients, the CNU Hwasun Hospital has been promoted by the Korean government through their homepage and on SNS. Sponsored by the Korean government, the CNU Hwasun Hospital staffed a booth at the Medical Korea Expo at the Seoul COEX from March 14–17 last year. This expo was held to promote cooperation and exchanges among different countries in terms of medical trends and knowledge.

Since most medical tourism has been more focused in the greater Seoul area as opposed to the Honam region, this designation by the KAHF is remarkable for the hospital, especially since it is located so far south of the Seoul sphere of influence. Despite the clean natural environment, the location does have some disadvantages with respect to accessibility. However, since opening in 2004, the hospital has brought in advanced medical equipment, joint treatment systems, and specialization in cancer treatment. With an excellent medical team, naturefriendly environment, and relatively affordable medical fees, the hospital aggressively attracts foreign patients.

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17 For the first time in the history of Korean national universities, the CNU Hwasun Hospital was accredited by the JCI (Joint Commission International) in 2010, and in 2013, it met the international standards for patient safety and medical care. Creating a huge “healing forest” as infrastructure for healing is another unique factor of the CNU Hwasun Hospital.

As a first for the Honam region, the CNU Hwasun Hospital opened an “international medical center” within the hospital in 2011. With interpretation services and a direct billing service from international medical insurance providers, the hospital has been putting great effort into not only attracting international patients but also expanding in the international medical market and global network. In 2013, the CNU Hwasun hospital took first place in the rate of increase in attracting international patients. Many cancer patients from Russia, Mongolia, and other Central Asian countries have been visiting the hospital. Free follow-up service for foreign patients is provided for those who send medical records from their own countries after treatment from the CNU Hwasun Hospital. The high patient-satisfaction rate has resulted in no official medical claims so far.

The hospital has received worldwide and domestic attention for its first place in the number of cancer surgery cases per bed, the highest ranking in capability in cancer treatment for each field, a high survival rate among cancer patients, and relatively affordable medical fees in comparison to those of the capital area. The CNU Hwasun Hospital has been considered “the most beautiful hospital” in Korea and even scored the highest points for “medical service assessment from inpatient experiences” as announced by the Ministry of Health and Welfare last year.

The CNU Hwasun Hospital has been strengthening its international standing and expanding its international network by signing MOUs with hospitals not only in America, Russia, and China, but also in Mongolia, Uzbekistan, and Kazakhstan in Central Asia, and with Vietnam in Southeast Asia. The hospital was introduced in the Middle East as an “innovative hospital representing Korea” by the Ministry of Health and Welfare.

Having started with 287 beds at its beginning in 2004, the CNU Hwasun Hospital now manages 705 beds. The number of annual surgeries has reached 9,000 cases. The annual number of patients, including both inpatients and outpatients, has reached 720,000. A staff of 1,400 employees, including 270 doctors and 700 nurses, currently works at the hospital.

According to Shin Jung, M.D., Ph.D. (General Director/ CEO of the CNU Hwasun Hospital), to keep the nickname “Mayo Clinic of Korea,” all the employees of the CNU Hwasun Hospital try their best to become like the original Mayo Clinic in America. He also says that they will try their best to provide high-quality international medical service to uphold its reputation of “representing Asia’s hospitals specializing in cancer treatment.”

Translated by Min Park

THE CNU HWASUN HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL CENTER

t Mon.–Fri. 9:00–18:00 P 322 Seoyang-ro, Hwasun-eup, Hwasun, Jeollanam-do (No. 151 Gwangju City bus, 217 or 217-1 Hwasun County bus available) À (061) 379-7892 (English), 379-7895 (Russian)

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July 2019

The International Medical Center

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18

The Return of the Celadons A Visit to the National Research Institute of Maritime Cultural Heritage Written by Monk Jang Gyong

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July 2019

FEATURE

W

hether one likes it or not, we live in societies that are embedded in a larger and more homogeneous system of global capitalist organizations. Perhaps it is good to know that we as humans were not always living in such a manner. For a long, long time, we were living in worlds that were not at all like the world is today.

In fact, the Industrial Revolution occurred only about 200 years ago. If we roll back a few more 200 years on an imaginary timeline, we find that authentic and almost everlasting manually produced products were shipped to and fro around the Korean Peninsula – artifacts that embody a refined combination of craftsmanship, natural elements unique to geographic locations, and a delicate proportional balance of visual characteristics, to say nothing about functionality.

The ships that were carrying these goods on the eastern section of the so-called Maritime Silk Route were made of wood and were equipped with tightly woven canvases to harvest the power of the winds. The sailors on board most likely relied almost entirely on their natural senses for navigation: during the daytime by looking at the horizon and the position of the sun, at night by looking at the stars.

One thing is without a doubt: The relics on display in the exhibition halls of the National Research Institute of Maritime Cultural Heritage would, if placed in water, sink without fail and without exception. They were placed in water and did sink: Many of the artifacts on display were once the ceramic cargo of a Chinese trade ship of the Yuan Dynasty that sank off the coast of Jeollanam-do in what is now Shinan-gun back in the 14th century. As for the artifacts, which include many celadons, they have been preserved well over the centuries.

It is hoped that the record below of a conversation I was

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fortunate to have will encourage some to embark on a journey of learning about ancient maritime exchanges that took place several hundred years ago around the Korean Peninsula. The partner in my conversation was Shin Jong-kuk, section head of the Exhibition and Public Division of the above-mentioned institution, who was not only a patient and understanding companion but also a knowledgeable guide who would anticipate unasked questions and provide detailed explanations when needed.

Jang Gyong (JG): When did the National Research Institute of Maritime Cultural Heritage open its gates and what led to its establishment?

Shin Jong-kuk (Shin): The Shinan shipwreck was excavated beginning in 1976 and continued for about nine years until 1984. The porcelain relics excavated there were transferred to the National Museum of Korea in Seoul.

The ship’s hull was salvaged in 1981, and since it could not be sent to the museum, it was deemed at the time that it should be preserved in the urban area near Shinan district where the Shinan shipwreck was excavated.

So we built a structure near the current museum to preserve the hull of the Shinan ship in Mokpo, which was the beginning of the museum. At first, it was built to have the hull of the Shinan ship go through preservation treatments, but during the preservation process, there were many requests to build an exhibition hall here as well, since the remains of the Shinan shipwreck came from a nearby area. So the National Maritime Museum was built here in 1994. The current official name is the National Research Institute of Maritime Cultural Heritage. Not only are relics exhibited here, but we also dive and excavate underwater cultural assets, and in the process, investigations have been carried out along with research. So in 2009, the museum changed its name to that of an institute and developed into a comprehensive

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19 organization that has research, investigative, and exhibition functions.

JG: For a simple visitor, this may only be a museum with fascinating maritime history on display, but I am finding that there is a wide range of activities that the people who work here are involved with. What are some of the various activities that the Institute carries out?

Zhejiang in China, and the pottery from there often has various letters written on them. These markings indicate the maker of the pottery or a shipping company.

JG: According to the explanation in one exhibition room, some shipwrecks were discovered through fishermen finding artifacts in their nets. Does this still happen sometimes?

Shin: First of all, our research center displays underwater relics and contents related to centuries-old trade overseas, including the Shinan shipwreck relics. Secondly, we are the only institution in our country that can excavate and investigate underwater cultural assets. So we do research on them, and since sunken ships come with artifacts, we study not only traditional ships but also island cultures related to various marine cultures.

Shin: Most of Korea’s underwater sites are found when reported by fishermen or people scuba diving as a hobby, and we go to the site and check if there are any artifacts.

It was like this for the Shinan shipwreck, and the Wando shipwreck. There are a lot of ships that are found by fishermen and residents reporting them. So far, 14 ships have been excavated, and most of them have been found this way.

JG: The first exhibition room hosts shipwrecks from the Goryeo period. If I have understood correctly, there is something special about the markings on the bottom of some of the white porcelains. Can you please explain?

JG: Amongst the relics of the Goryeo era, there are some jars that look a bit like kimchi pots, but strangely they have four handles. What could be the reason for having four handles?

Shin: These ceramics were not made in Korea but in China. They were made mainly in Fujian Sheng and

Shin: This is from the time of the Goryeo Dynasty, but not from Goryeo. This pottery is from Yuan. The four

1

4

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5

2.

3.

4.

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July 2019

5.

Uniquely Korean curvatives and inlay on celadons excavated from 1995 close to Muan County’s Doripo.

More than 27,000 pieces of 12thcentury Goryo ceramics were found close to Taean County, including this incense burner.

Jar with four “handles” (도기사이호; 陶器四耳壺) from China’s Yuan Dynasty, also referred to as a Mongol jar, excavated in 2003 close to Mado, Taean County.

Wooden labels or wooden tags (목간; 木簡) with Chinese characters Tofukuji (東福寺) written on them indicating the destination of the Shinan ship’s cargo.

Lower part of a traditional diving suit of a haenyeo (해녀복). Modern diving suits were only used after the 1970s.

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3

2

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▲ Glorious moments of raising the Shinan ship’s skeleton: 20,664 pieces of ceramic ware, 28 tons of Chinese coins and 1,017 pieces of red sandalwood were recovered.

“handles” are not actually handles; they are rings that are used to tie down a cover, something like a wooden board or a lid, to prevent the contents from being spilled out.

When you tie it with a string, you need not two but four rings to tie it securely.

JG: In the same exhibition room, there is a group of celadons that seem to be unusually rich in decorations, especially on the inner sides of the vessels. They even seem more curved than other bowls from the same era.

Why do they look so different, if I may ask?

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July 2019

f

Shin: The inlaying technique had been invented uniquely in Korea from the mid to late 12th century. Koreans learned how to make pottery in China and further developed it in Korea. The inlaying technique was first introduced to Korea in the late 12th century and developed in earnest later. This pottery was found in a site called Doripo, Muan (도리포, 무안), which was excavated in 1995 and 1996. This artifact was made in the late 14th century. During this period, celadon vessels were larger than those of the previous period and had an inlaid pattern. Just as celadon pottery is characterized by the specific time during the Goryeo Dynasty in which it was made, these also represent the characteristics of the period in which they were made. The bowls are larger in size and the curvature has changed. Most of the other artifacts from other regions are similar. These items were not made in China.

JG: Nowadays, trade and international relations seem to

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be much related. By excavating and researching maritime artifacts, can experts determine what international relations were like in different eras?

Shin: There are some things you can find out from the relics. From the Unified Silla Period to the Goryeo Dynasty, overseas exchanges were active, but from the Joseon Dynasty, a policy against maritime trade prohibited the people from going out and trading by sea (해금정책; 海禁政策). Maybe there was a problem with pirates, and the Joseon Dynasty limited exchanges by sea, following the policies of the Ming Dynasty of China.

The exchange between the Ming and Joseon Dynasties involved envoys and diplomats traveling overland, so relics from the Joseon Dynasty do not appear much in the sea. Written records show that merchants of the Song Dynasty went back and forth from Song to Goryeo several times during the Goryeo Dynasty, so if you study discovered artifacts together with the written records, you will be able to better understand the international trade relationships of that time.

JG: What was the function of those wooden items that look a bit like large ice cream sticks that seem to be on display in every exhibition room?

Shin: These days, if you send a package by parcel service, a waybill is made. It tells what is in the package and how it should be delivered. These wooden documents recorded basic information about the cargo: information about the

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21 shipment site, the region, and the contents of the cargo.

For example, if the contents of the cargo were grain, the information would be expressed in terms of bags of wheat or seeds, the receiver of the cargo, and the amount of grain.

to the sinking of the Shinan ship. Based on these records, we think that monks were on board, and since much of the Shinan ship’s cargo is from a temple in Kyoto, Japan, named Dongbok-sa (東福寺,Tofukuji), it is reasonable to assume that monks were on board, but it is not certain.

These wooden documents are important because there are quite a few people in other written records, such as Goryeosa (고려사, History of the Goryeo Dynasty), who are named in these documents as recipients of the cargo.

These are important documents that show where the cargo originated, where it was going, and roughly when the vessel was shipwrecked. This is the most important piece of data that has recently come out of the ship.

JG: What are the ongoing exploration plans of the Maritime Research Institute?

JG: I have read in the second exhibition hall that most of the passengers of the sunken ship were monks who were to return to Japan from China. How is it possible to know the professions of the passengers?

Shin: We do not know exactly. It is only an assumption, but during the Tang Dynasty and the Yuan Dynasty, many people went to China from Japan or Korea to study, especially monks. According to the annals of the Goryeosa, the sinking of the Shinan ship in 1323 was in the Yeong-gwang (영광) district, and there are records of the repatriation of 220 Japanese who drifted into the area of today’s Shinan district. There is a record in Japan of a Japanese monk named Daejisunsa (大智禪師, 1290–1366) who drifted into Goryeo in 1324 and was repatriated to Japan in 1325. It was assumed that this is a record related

Shin: Currently, we are excavating in the Jeju Island area and the Taean (태안) area. These are our main areas of focus.

JG: Thank you, Mr. Shin, for the interesting information that you have provided in this interview.

Interview translated by Yoo Yeon-woo Photographs courtesy of National Reserach Institute of Maritime Cultural Heritage and Mokpo MBC

The Author

Monk Jang Gyong was born and raised in Budapest, Hungary. He learned about Korean Buddhism through the activities of the late Zen Master Sung Sahn. He came to Korea and became a monk in Seoul at Hwagye Temple in 2008 and has since been living and practicing as a Buddhist monk in temples throughout Korea. As for Gwangju, he practiced and lived at Gwaneum Temple between 2014 and 2017, and studied Korean language at Chonnam National University. Currently he resides at Buddha Zen Center, Busan.

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July 2019

▲ Passengers of the Shinan ship examining its special shipment: An image from MBC Special Documentary: A Great Discovery (위대한 발견).

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TRAVEL

22 Lost in Gwangju Local Enterpreneur

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July 2019

Heavenly Father

Death Bed

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Artistic Abandon

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23

Odds and (Dead) Ends Written and photographed by Isaiah Winters

R

ather than stick to a single topic, this month’s Lost in Gwangju will be a potpourri of sorts featuring a few of the city’s odds and (dead) ends that have been cluttering my workspace for the last year or so. Each photo comes with an interesting story all its own, though not necessarily one that’s feasible or worthwhile as a full article. Together I hope these loose ends make for moderately interesting content. So, without further ado, I bring you the loners and outcasts of my experiences in the City of Light.

Surprisingly, “Heavenly Father” does have a Facebook account that I lazily reached out

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ARTISTIC ABANDON (JISAN-DONG) Abandoned art is a topic that’s been recently written about in the Gwangju News, so there isn’t much I can do with this photo and its backstory that hasn’t already been done. It was taken on Gwangju International Community Day

July 2019

If my Korean language chops were better, I’d try to arrange an interview with “Heavenly Father” for a super special edition of Lost in Gwangju, but I don’t think that’ll happen any time soon. Of course, I could always ask for an interpreter to help out, but do I really want to subject a third party to such an interview? No way.

DEATH BED (GWANGCHEON-DONG) There’s an abandoned old folks’ home near the U-Square Bus Terminal that recently garnered brief national attention after a Korean internet broadcaster discovered the corpse of a 60-year-old man inside and reported it to the police. While shooting the building months before said discovery, a friend and I came across this rather cozy room that reeked of oily sheets and stale cigarette smoke. The room was clearly being lived in at the time and even had a framed portrait of an elderly man mounted on the wall nearby. There’s no way of knowing for sure whether this is where the corpse was later found or whether the man in the picture would later be the deceased, but it sure makes you think. Lacking enough information and not wanting to dig too deep into a person’s death, this is an article I’d rather not write.

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“HEAVENLY FATHER” (YANG-DONG) Along one of Yang-dong’s twisted back alleys is a peculiar red house with banners and business cards displayed along the exterior. Inside lives a man who calls himself “Heavenly Father” (천부, cheon-bu), and his publically available business cards proudly display his contact information, an end-of-the-world decree, and images of himself with “cheon-bu” apparently tattooed in red across his forehead. His uncanny resemblance to Charles Manson and his cult-like message have won themselves a coveted place in my wallet, where I always keep a few of his cards for comedic effect. I keep them jumbled together with my Subway and Starbucks cards and often crack a smile while fumbling through them at cashiers.

to months ago, but it was last active in 2013 and so probably won’t yield anything. Still, with fingers crossed, I’ve sent my friend request and am hopeful that one day we’ll be friends before it’s too late. According to his “creation proclamation” printed on the cards, there’s not much time left. In a short while, the Earth will split and all those without the Holy Spirit will die in sulfur fires and yada, yada, yada. The pitch is to get as many people as possible to register their address at “Heavenly Father’s” house to avoid this awful death and gain access to his heavenly country. Or something.

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24

Watered-Down Karaoke

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July 2019

this year and features numerous pieces of art, most of which were handmade, left behind in a condemned building. The pieces were of course scattered about the room, but I took the time to gather them together in the corner for a final misfit family photo. Now that I’m shooting solo more often these days, I’ve had more time to stage photos like this, which comes with benefits and detriments. In this case, I think the effort was justified, though most of the time my arrangements end up being a huge waste of time.

WATERED-DOWN KARAOKE (HAK-DONG) In the bowels of an uninspiring building somewhere in Hak-dong is what we call the “Free Willy” norae-bang (노래방, karaoke room), named after the dated movie poster still hanging in its lobby. It seems to have suffered extensive flooding years ago and was left abandoned as a result. Today the TV stands are warped and leaning with an absolutely atrocious level of mold growing on the walls. Here my friend Ryan Berkebile does his best to keep out the mold spores, though to no avail. We’ve found three flooded underground karaoke rooms in Gwangju alone, with likely many more still undiscovered. Although these finds are interesting enough for an article of their own, the fact that they’re all underground in pitch black basements means that the photos are guaranteed to look terrible in the magazine, so no dice.

“ADULT PRODUCTS” (DAEIN-DONG) In a country where talk of intercourse is studiously avoided,

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sex shops occupy a niche no-man’s-land that few are brave enough to enter. I’ve always found these erotic speakeasies fascinating, and have often ventured inside to compare and contrast the products, their presentation, and the overall level of awkwardness offered at each. The most memorable products have included long-lashed rings made from camel and yak eyelids that are intended for a man’s member.

Most cringe-inducing are always the silicone derrieres that sometimes come in disturbingly small sizes. The worst of all these shops is one in Yu-dong that’s water damaged, mold infested, and has a paltry selection of products, some of which look used in unsealed packages. As for this photo, it was taken in a neighborhood of mostly love motels near Daein Market. I snapped it quickly but wasn’t quick enough to avoid drawing the owner’s perfectly timed attention. The reason why this type of article wouldn’t work is that it’s actually been featured in the Gwangju News before, and I don’t think it’s worth exploring twice.

“REFRESHING BREEZE OF YEONGWOL” (YANG-DONG) This establishment is one of only very few still remaining in Yang-dong. Loosely translating to “Refreshing Breeze of Yeongwol,” it’s ostensibly a karaoke bar where a hostess sings songs with you in a private room. Half the street in this area used to have nothing but these karaoke bars back in the day, but now they’re quickly vanishing with only one or two still open. Over the years, we’ve managed to get into some that are abandoned, often with interesting results. For

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25 example, on a visit to the area years ago, a friend and I found old hepatitis C medication lying around in one of the back rooms. As for this photo, I’m usually stealthy enough to escape notice, but in this case my friend Ryan snapped a photo nearby with his analogue camera, which flashed conspicuously and blew my cover.

This is yet another example of the kind of interview I’d like to arrange if my Korean weren’t so limited, but that I also wouldn’t subject an interpreter to, so it’ll have to stay on ice for now.

▲ Adult Products

▲ Refreshing Breeze of Yeongwol

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THE ART OF THE DEAL (IM-DONG) A friend and I were perusing a condemned neighborhood near the Kia baseball stadium and got spotted by a security guard who politely came to escort us out. But after we explained why we were there in the first place – to photograph beautiful old houses – he asked us to pick the house we most wanted to see and said he’d let us in (on the obvious condition that we not return). Stunned by this quid pro quo, we wasted no time in choosing the house that looked like it still had the most stuff inside and waited while he unfastened the rope to let us peek around inside. Out of respect, we didn’t return until months later when demolition had already claimed most of the houses and so didn’t get much of a story out of the area as a consequence. Still, being able to strike a deal with a security guard is a rare treat in urban exploring, so our hats are off to this guy.

The Author

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▲ Art of the Deal

A picture is all that’s left of

July 2019

Originally from Southern California, Isaiah is a Gwangjubased urban explorer who enjoys writing about the City of Light’s lesser-known quarters. When he’s not roaming the streets and writing about his experiences, he’s usually working or fulfilling his duties as the Gwangju News’ heavily caffeinated chief proofreader.

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26 Blast from the Past 26

Geumseong-sanseong TRAVEL

Hiking on History Written by Blake Bouchard

(Originally appearing in the July 2013 issue of the Gwangju News.)

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July 2019

In continuing our series of reintroduced articles from past Gwangju News issues, this month we have selected this vacation-time article that incorporates hiking with sightseeing of the walled fortress of Geumseong Township in Damyang County. So grab your hiking boots and backpack and enjoy. — Ed.

I

f you ever find yourself feeling confined by Gwangju, and need an all-day escape from the city, hiking Geumseong-sanseong (금성산성) is the perfect destination. Geumseong is located near Damyang (담양), a mere 40-minute bus ride from Gwangju. Although generally known for its bamboo and dak-galbi (닭갈비, stirfried chicken), Damyang also has some amazing hiking paths to offer, not the least of which is the hilltop fortress of Geumseong-sanseong.

Geumseong-sanseong was built in the early 13th century as a defensive enclosure designed to withstand a prolonged conflict. Seven kilometers of dry stone wall blend into the peaks surrounding a mountain valley. Fresh water is supplied by a spring in the center, and the gardens around the hermitage of Dongja-am (동자암) are a testimony to the agricultural potential of the valley. It seems probable that this fortress could have withstood a very protracted siege as long as there were defenders to man the walls.

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Today, these walls have been reconstructed and serve as a trail for hiking and history buffs who love the freedom outside the city. The initial 45-minute ascent to the fortress runs through bamboo forests and along a mountain spur until the trail passes through the formidable walls at Boguk-mun (보국문), the main entrance into the fortress.

In the interest of layered defenses, this gate opens into an enclosure dominated by the main wall and controlled by the Chungyong-mun (충용문) gate, which is a few hundred meters farther up the hill. For those interested primarily in the history and not in the longer hike, wander into the Dongja-am hermitage, or up into one of the neighboring fortresses or peaks; however, the entire loop is a much longer hike.

More adventurous hikers may elect to complete the loop, either clockwise or counter-clockwise. For those who run out of energy or daylight partway around the loop, trails lead directly across the valley from the west and north gates, cutting the route nearly in half. I cannot really comment on these treks, as my group opted to stay on the perimeter trails. However, based on the shape of the valley, any of these trails could save several hours of hiking.

We hiked the loop clockwise, and I would actually recommend this direction as the better route. I say this

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27 because the steepest climb cuts in and out of the valley between Cheolma-bong (철마봉) and the North Gate (북문).

At the bottom is the West Gate (서문), where the stream from the spring exits the wall. Of the two sides, the north side of the valley is steeper and higher. I found it easier to climb this way rather than descending the steep sections.

By the time the spring exits Geumseong-sanseong near the West Gate, it has become a substantial creek.

Buttresses around the West Gate make a great lunch or snack spot to listen to the creek and to enjoy the view of Damyang Lake down the valley. Sections of this trail are steep enough that a rope is provided to help your ascent. At the top of the climb is the North Gate with an open bastion where we settled in for a late lunch break. This is also where the trail makes a sharp bend around to the east, spreading an entirely new set of views out in front of hikers. We made the trip in early spring, and we could see ice and snow on the north-facing slopes of nearby valleys.

Once you have reached the North Gate, the remainder of the trail is relatively easy. Ten minutes past the North Gate, the ridge and trail make a sharp bend to the south, presenting all new views. We passed over another peak, Undae-bong (운대봉), before stopping for a rest at the East Gate (동문). After a few more ups and downs, we descended back into the valley to visit the Dongja-am hermitage.

The hermitage is located just behind Chungyong-mun. It consists of a cluster of buildings, gardens, and a training yard. We slipped inside one of the buildings where a martial arts display was being shown on a large TV screen.

The generator drowned out any commentary, but a series

of young men were taking the stage to demonstrate their prowess with various weapons. We were informed by one of the other bystanders that these were all students trained at the hermitage. Depending on when you pass through the area, training may be taking place in the open area between the buildings.

Geumseong-sanseong provides hikers with beautiful panoramas encompassing most of Damyang County.

Depending on which side of the loop you are on, you will be looking out on the farmlands of the river valley; the blues and greens of Damyang Lake; Bori-am (보리암) hermitage, clinging to the cliffs of Chulwol-san (출월산); or the mountains stretching away to the north and east.

Directions to Geumseong-sanseong From the U-Square Bus Terminal, catch an inter-city bus to Damyang. They run every 20–30 minutes. It takes 40 minutes to get from U-Square to the Damyang bus terminal. From this bus terminal you can take a taxi to Damyang Resort Spa for about 10,000 won, or you can catch a local bus to the same location. All local buses display the same number, so ask either the person at the ticket counter or the driver where the bus is going.

The Author

Blake Bouchard was a teacher in Gwangju before returning to British Columbia, Canada, where he has now received a JD degree and is embarking on a career in criminal law.

HIKING TIPS: 10 Things to Take

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

1. A lot of water – The hikes here are not usually that grueling, but the heat and humidity suck you dry.

2. Rain jacket – Unpredictable weather is the name of the game here. Be prepared.

3. Sunscreen – The sun here is strong.

4. Sunglasses – Not just for the sun. Often there are dusty winds over ridgelines.

5. Shareable snacks – Korean hikers will often offer goodies at rest stops. It is polite to reciprocate.

6. Booze and mug – Hiking is a boozy social thing here. If you are invited to join a group for lunch, it’s best to be able to contribute.

7. Understanding/patience – Hiking is Korea’s pastime. Because of this, the trails are often, quite literally, gridlocked. Make conversation with your neighbors.

8. First aid kit – Best to be safe and bring one along.

9. Toilet paper – This really is a good idea wherever hiking in Korea.

July 2019

The author on the south side of the Undae-bong peak.

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28 Around Korea

Three Reasons Why You Should Have Visited Jeonju a Long Time Ago! Written by Cami Ismanova

Nowadays, Jeonju successfully connects both historical and modern elements, making it appealing to include this city on your list while traveling around Korea. Besides popular tourist sites like the Hanok Village and Jaman Mural Village, there are a lot of large-scale events going on in the city that are truly worth attending while in our second home, Korea. But how do we choose the right time to go on a trip to catch Jeonju in full swing?

Well, there are three major festivals that you might be interested in. The one we should look forward to in the near future is the Jeonju International Sori Festival. The festival was first held in 2001 and has become the main event for folk music such as pansori (판소리) in South Korea. Every fall, the city offers a spectacular festival of traditional music and invites the most talented and respected artists from all over the country. It not only preserves the original elements of Korean traditional music but also introduces the modern international music of today, uniting listeners of many genres together. The audience can enjoy a grand gala for the opening and closing ceremonies, outdoor stages, master classes, and music workshops for kids and adults. The Jeonju International Sori Festival was listed among “25 of the Best World Music Festivals” by Songlines, the popular British world music magazine, and was the only Asian music festival on the chart in 2014. You can find relevant information at sorifestival.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2019

TRAVEL

T

he city of Jeonju is well known over the “Land of the Morning Calm” and attracts both tourists and locals to its annual festivals, events of international scale, and the hospitality of its residents.

Jeonju is the sixteenth largest city in South Korea and the capital of North Jeolla Province. Historically, it also used to be the capital of the Hu-Baekje Kingdom (Later Baekje, 후백제) founded by King Gyeon Hwon.

Jeondong Catholic Church

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29

Jeonju Square

Nambu Market

com. The website supports the English and Japanese languages, which makes it super convenient to use.

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All of the festivals and events mentioned above would not be as absorbing and thought-provoking as they are without a lovely local community that welcomes you with warm smiles and guides you on your journey through its wonderful city. The music, the food, and the movies are international, and we can all share and enjoy them together. But often what truly touches our hearts and leaves a memorable footprint in our minds are the people we have met on the way.

The Author

Photographs by Yu Hee Sang

Cami is a student in Chonnam National University majoring in economics. She has lived seven years in Russia and two years in Turkey when she was younger. Cami writes poems both in English and Russian as one of the ways to express herself. She happens to love traveling around and reading classics.

July 2019

The third and one of the grandest events in Jeonju, which I happened to attend in person, is the International Film Festival (IFF). The city celebrated its 20th anniversary of the festival in May by gathering gifted artists under this year’s official slogan: “Cinema: Liberated and Expressed.” The organizers put in a lot of effort to meet modern standards in choosing progressive, creative, and experimental movies.

When I visited this year, the festival included 275 films from 53 countries. The governor of Jeollabuk-do, Song Hajin, said, “At the 20th Jeonju IFF, we will demonstrate the

A significant feature of the Jeonju International Film Festival is that it encourages local filmmakers to introduce movies that are not limited by power or social prejudices.

The festival is held annually from the end of April to May for ten days. The tickets are available online and vary from 5,000 to 15,000 won, depending on the type of screening.

The award ceremony is free of charge and operates on a first-come, first-served basis with a usual limit of 50 people.

All information about the venue, the artists, and the movies can be found on the official website eng.jeonjufest.kr.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

The second festival of the trio is the Jeonju Bibimbap Festival, but I personally call it a gustatory paradise. This festival is focused on serving the widely popular Jeonju bibimbap – a bowl of rice topped with a great variety of vegetables, beef, and chili pepper paste. It is also held in the fall, particularly during October 23–26. So, if you are a huge fan of bibimbap (or Korean cooking in general), you had better mark these days on your calendar and prepare to gain some weight along with happy chubby cheeks. Once you are there, you can enjoy some of the most stupendous performances, such as the mixing of four hundred servings of bibimbap into one gigantic portion, various concerts, magic shows, and meals at the night market. The location of the festival is in the Jeonju Hanok Village, which you can get to by taking bus number 12, 109, or 60 from Jeonju Station. The tickets are free of charge but booth activities might charge a couple thousand won. All information is provided at bibimbapfest.com, which also supports the English, Chinese, and Japanese languages.

growth of local films in various contents, genres, and film formats through formats looking at the past, present, and future vision.”

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30 From Abroad

My Dream Diary Written and photographed by Elizabeth Kaye A. Corpuz

W

When we want to make something happen, we put in every inch of our effort. But reality tells you that there is always a great possibility that it will not be as successful as you plan it to be. We are in a constant battle with “what-ifs,” “buts,” and doubts. We will tire along the way. However, I do not even know most of the time if pursuing a dream is worthwhile or not. I just want to follow my instincts on this.

DECEMBER 2017 I excitedly waited for our departure to Vietnam. Vacation, at last! The prior months saw my meltdown, and though reluctant, I was eager to walk around Hanoi. I was not very particular about the place, but I thought to myself that I needed a break. During this trip, I made a resolution to myself: “I have experienced traveling abroad. I could save money for my travels. What is hindering me from going to the place I have really dreamt of? Why I am not making any efforts to make it happen?”

Honestly, there was really nothing that hindered the plan.

But, I am always daunted by how expensive it could be and the accessibility and predictableness of the place.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2019

TRAVEL

e are programed to have dreams. Whether a dream will stay in our mind or is acted out in the world is the hard decision we have to make.

An Adele song comes along with this decision: “Should I give up or should I just keep on chasing pavements?”

At Sabtang Island, going to Chavayan Stone Houses.

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31

South Batan Island

Nevertheless, I said to myself that by 2018, I would make it happen and that I should do it all alone. It was my project for myself, and I wanted to do it for myself. As soon as we were back in the Philippines, I started to search and to devise a plan.

FEBRUARY 2018 I finally booked my flight. Since I was sort of short on funds, I tapped into the generosity of my sister.

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What could I do? I was still hopeful that by the time we got back to Manila, the weather would become acceptable.

Behind the counters, I could see that no other flight was going to Batanes in the afternoon, and the ground staff said that my flight would be re-booked the next day at 7:00 a.m. However, there was no assurance, as it still depended on the weather. “Calm down,” I told myself and went back home to repeat the routine.

It was still raining in Batanes.

April 17, 6:00 a.m.: While waiting at the boarding gate, the announcement came over the loudspeaker that my flight was delayed and that we were to wait for further notice.

July 2019

APRIL 2018 On the eve of April 16, I was already set, and at 4:00 a.m., I bid goodbye to my mother. She was more hesitant this time because I was alone. At 5:00 a.m., I was at the boarding gate waiting. Then, at 6:00 a.m., the ascent started. Four hours passed, and the plane was about to land at the Basco Airport Terminal. I was thrilled!

Flight canceled. www.gwangjunewsgic.com

MARCH 2018 I was torn between a do-it-yourself trip, as I always do, and booking a travel package. With so much consideration, I decided to just book a travel package. So, the search for accommodation and a travel package began.

Descending. First attempt: Failed. Second attempt: Failed.

Then, a voice over the speaker announced that the plane was going back to Manila. We could not land due to zero visibility. We were battling against a thick cloud; it was like a large glob of mayonnaise was spread across the entire sky over Batanes. We were fighting against the sky. Before our flight, a heavy rain had poured down.

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32 What is more painful: to have your flight canceled while in the air or waiting for a delayed flight with a great possibility of flight cancellation? I was not very positive at this time.

I was thinking of just turning around and spending my remaining vacation days somewhere else.

After another hour of waiting, some good news came. We were boarding. However, I waited for some rather bad news while we were up in the air. It did not come, though, and finally we were able to make a landing.

I was in tears. Yes! Finally, I set foot in Batanes, the northernmost province of the Philippines. It is a place that is closer to Taiwan than to the rest of the country – a place that has a unique topography compared to the rest of the country.

I was speechless. I was in so much awe. My devastating disappointments of the past day and a half had disappeared.

I was in the place I had dreamed of: quiet and serene.

Perhaps, my mind was in a state of confusion, but looking at a place like Batanes relieved all the tension. I cannot find words to describe the place nor the feelings I had. When you want something for so long and it is finally in front of your eyes, it seems like a dream that will exist for only a moment.

The waves may be strong and you may have to stop for a while, but you should continue the journey no matter what it takes. You will never know what you will see unless you try. You might see a surprise, like the unexpected presence of a dolphin in the ocean. Also, no matter how many typhoons you may face, believe that you can brave the storm and be as beautiful as Batanes, which is frequently hit by storms.

The Author

When not busy coordinating activities in a clinical trial, Elizabeth Corpuz spends her time painting, reading, planning for her next adventure, or fan-girling over BTS. She loves being lost in an unknown place so she can discover wonderful things. Currently, she is on break in pursuing her dreams but is still inspired to be better.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2019

Once I set foot on the land, I allowed myself to return to reality. I was all alone. Nothing would disturb me other than myself and my thoughts. I was grateful that I had followed my instincts and stuck to my plan.

Since my stay was shortened, the moment I met my tour guide, we started to explore the different parts of the protected landscapes and seascapes. The raging water had been kissing the stones scattered all over the island. I even went down to one of the view decks just to feel the strong current of the ocean. While the waves were like galloping horses, the rolling hills and the rock formations were the peaceful but commanding sentinels of the land. If Batanes were a monarch, you would naturally expect it to be a snob. However, it was actually the opposite. Batanes was quite shy but very welcoming and warm. Filipinos have the saying that if you are brokenhearted, Batanes can heal you.

But I have found a different answer.

JUNE 2019 I have been applying to different universities and for scholarships for my postgraduate study for quite some time already. My hopes have climbed the highest mountain.

They have sunk to the deepest valley of the ocean, as well.

Many times, I question myself and doubt my plans. It only makes me tired in the long run.

Batanes has taught me to ride and enjoy the waves of life.

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South Batan Island: Chawa Viewdeck, the author climbed down to reach the bottom.

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33

Trail Running in South Korea Written by Ryan Thompson

R

These are a taste of scattered thoughts you may experience while trail running around Gwangju and South Korea.

TRAVEL AND EXERCISE Trail running is a great way to get in some exercise in a world where we are sedentary for so many hours of our day. A couple hundred years ago, we used to run around this world because we had to. Now we are searching for

the time to be active. See a new part of Korea you would never see otherwise and enter a trail race. Five years ago, I never would have thought that I would be running these trail races, but somehow it has happened.

MOVING MEDITATION Meditation is somehow commonplace in our lives. If we do not practice it, we definitely have heard of it and could roll our eyes at people talking about how it is the answer to their newfound peace. This is of course as they explode in anger five minutes later at being offended by a look someone gave them. Words do not matter.

Our relationship with the words used matters. To me, meditation is just bringing in your personal experience and seeing things exactly how they are. That is it. You can do this sitting cross-legged or through taking in nature that is around you. It can be in the concrete jungle or in the mountains.

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES

un a little; walk a little. Take in the world around you. Be accepting of the fact you cannot go much faster. You are where you are, and it is exactly the right place. Thinking about the meaning of life or craving dak-galbi (닭갈비, stir-fried chicken). What should I do next? How did I think my song at the norae-bang (노래방, karaoke) actually sounded good last night? Oh wait, we are in the mountains now. Let’s listen to the birds speaking together and take in the view of only the next step.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2019

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34 RUNNING ON A TRACK IS BORING Zzz. Running around a track that is the same thing over and over and over is mental. Get out in nature and make your own path. Get lost and find your way, and then do it all over again. Either that or have fun miscounting how many laps you just did.

A marathon on pavement uses the same muscles over and over. We know variance is good for our bodies, and we should change it up. The amount of different terrain in trail running is endless. It has it all, and we should take advantage of that. Our feet will be touching the ground at all different points, and we can spring our legs in different ways, which will relieve some parts of our body and strengthen others as time goes. Don’t run marathons? No problem. Take a shorter trail run or walk because even the best in the game power hike sections. Throw that ego aside.

MEETING GREAT PEOPLE Going to races, you have the opportunity to meet great people with a similar mindset. You also can join groups online to meet up and enjoy nature together. I remember walking through Portland, Maine, in the United States and having a conversation with an old lady on a bench overlooking the blue ocean. Her eyes were filled with gratitude and wonder as she told me to take in the view and how the best part was that it was all free. Sometimes the meaningful interactions will not even come from people you are running with – like this one.

The blog KlimbingKorea does a great job of showing the location and a very detailed outline on what to expect.

It really is not my style to read up on the micro details of these trails because being out there to discover it for yourself is half the fun. But I will let you decide how to attack Mudeung Mountain. Run. Hike. Walk. Do it all.

KlimbingKorea site: https://klimbingkoreanmountains. wordpress.com/ TRANSJEJU For those of you looking for motivation to get running, look no further than TransJeju. It is the perfect end goal to a long, brutally hot summer. Train through the summer so that October on the volcano top in Jeju will be a breeze.

Reach out to me for training tips whenever you want. It is a great excuse for a vacation. They have something for everyone, including trails of 10 kilometers, 50 kilometers, and 111 kilometers.

TransJeju site: http://www.transjeju.com/ http://www.jejutrail.com/ See you there.

The Author

Photographs by Purna Yu

Ryan is from Rhode Island in the United States. He enjoys extremes, paradoxes, and flipflopping. He enjoys being in nature but also on social media. He enjoys a good meditation session but also a great soju session.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2019

EARNING YOUR MEAL There is nothing better than going on an all-out assault at an unlimited samgyeopsal (삼겹살, grilled pork belly) restaurant after a day on the trails. Don’t eat meat? Then attack the kimchi. You earned it.

GWANGJU TRAIL The best place to hike around Gwangju is Mudeung Mountain. The best way to get there for someone new would be to take the subway to the Sotae or Namgwangju station and then head east on the trails up that mountain from there. My Instagram, @journeyskorea, has a highlight for how to get there.

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35 35

TOPIK Guide (topikguide.com) is the most comprehensive website devoted to the TOPIK exam. It’s been helping Korean language learners pass the TOPIK (Test of Proficiency in Korean) for more than seven years. On this website, you can get all the TOPIK updates, grammar and vocabulary material, and study tips.

Everyday Korean Episode 19: 단위명사

Counting Units

Written by Harsh Kumar Mishra

아나:

Ana:

점원:

아저씨, 이 양말 한 켤레에 얼마예요?

[Ajeosshi, i yang-mal han kyeol-le-e eolma-yeyo?]

Sir, how much for one pair of these socks?

Grammar

이천 원이에요. 세 켤레 사시면 오천 원이에요.

listener)

[I-cheon won-i-e-yo. Se kyeol-le

sa-shi-myeon o-cheon won-i-e-yo.]

Shopkeeper: It’s 2,000 won. If you buy three

pairs, it’s 5,000 won.

아나:

Ana:

그럼 빨간색 양말 두 켤레하고 햐얀색 한 켤레 주세요.

[Geu-reom ppal-gan-saek yang-mal du kyeol-le-hago ha-yan-saek han kyeol-le ju-seyo.]

Then, please give me two pairs of red socks and one pair of white ones.

그 물도 두 병 주세요.

점원:

모두 칠천 원이에요.

[Geu mul-do du b-yeong ju-seyo.]

Jeong-min: Also, please give us two bottles of

that water.

[Mo-du chil-cheon won-i-e-yo.]

Shopkeeper: Altogether, it’s 7,000 won.

아나:

이 카드로 계산해 주세요.

Ana:

[I ka-deu-ro gye-san-hae ju-seyo.]

I’ll pay with this credit card.

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nouns. 하고 is interchangeable with “와/과.”

Ex: 저는 사과하고 바나나를 샀어요. I bought apples and bananas.

주세요: This is the formal way of asking someone to give you something.

Ex: 물 좀 주세요. Please give me some water.

Vocabulary 양말 빨간색 하얀색 모두 물 계산하다 카드

socks red white total, all water to pay, to calculate credit card

Counting units

Koreans use various counting units for different things.

These are the most used counting units in Korean: 개 권 벌 장 대 켤레 마리 명 병 잔

pieces, items (the most general counting unit) books clothes sheets of paper electronics and automobiles pairs (mostly used for socks and shoes) animals people (분 is the formal version) bottles cups

July 2019

Visit the TOPIK Guide website or our YouTube channel to improve your Korean and reach your goal on the TOPIK test.

~하고: This is used to express the meaning “and” when connecting two

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

정민:

이: This (when the thing is close to the speaker) 그: That (when the thing is far from the speaker but close to the listener) 저: That (over there) (when the thing is far from both the speaker and the

EDUCATION

Illustration by Han Lee

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36 Korea TESOL

Why Do L1 English Speakers Teach in Korea?

EDUCATION

Written by Dr. David E. Shaffer

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here are an estimated 24,000 native Englishspeaking English teachers in South Korea.

Regardless of how accurate that figure may be, there are a lot! Have you ever wondered what it is that lures people from halfway around the globe to teach English in a country so different in culture and language from their own? Well, I have. Though I too have been an English teacher in Korea for many years, I have often thought that my reasons for coming probably differ from many of the native English-speaking teachers (NESTs) here today. So, out of curiosity, and with an article for this column in mind, I conducted a little survey asking NESTs in Korea why they teach (or have taught) English as a foreign language here. It was a small survey, posted only on my Facebook page, but it provided an assortment of responses worthy of our attention here.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2019

I am certain that for most NESTs teaching in Korea, there is more than one reason why they are doing it, but I did not ask for several reasons in the survey, nor did I ask for a ranking of reasons when more than one was provided.

I took the first-mentioned as being the most important reason and the second-mentioned as the second-most important.

INTEREST IN KOREA/ASIA Only a couple of respondents said that their interest in Korea brought them here, and only a couple more replied that they came due to their interest in Asia. With the global ubiquity of the Hyundai and Samsung brands, K-pop, and Korean TV dramas, I expected interest in Korea in general to have had a greater influence on NESTs. However, when I look back on my own experience, albeit before clothing stores back home carried items with “Made in Korea” tags on them, it was the U.S. Peace Corps who suggested to me a program in Korea rather than the other way around. I then had to go to a map to determine its location vis-àvis China and Japan. Korea and its global placement are much better known today.

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ENJOYMENT IN TEACHING The most common response from NESTs for teaching in Korea was that they enjoy it. This was of course heartening. One respondent provided more detail, saying that they enjoy the challenge. I think that most will agree that teaching a foreign language can be extremely challenging. And teaching that language in a foreign land with a foreign culture and foreign tongue makes it all the more challenging. Another respondent added that they enjoy helping others. Indeed, everyone in the teaching profession should find satisfaction in helping others (i.e., their students) and seeing them grow. I remember that when I did my student teaching as a college student, I

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37 began to have doubts that I wanted to be a teacher. But teaching in Korea provided an immeasurably higher degree of satisfaction and enjoyment.

EMPLOYMENT CONDITIONS The second-most common reason given by the NESTs for teaching in Korea was the desirable employment conditions. There is a wide range in the degree of attractiveness of NEST teaching positions in terms of salary, teaching hours, vacation time, housing, and other benefits, but university teaching positions can be quite appealing. It is often the case that along with a comfortable salary comes few teaching hours per week, long winter and summer vacations, round-trip airfare, and housing. Several respondents singled out “the money” as the desirable employment condition, but regrettably no one in this small survey mentioned their colleagues or staff. Hopefully, those mentioning “the money” also have additional reasons keeping them in their teaching positions because one who teaches only for the money is likely not doing a stellar job of teaching.

THE LIVING CONDITIONS A number of respondents cited the good living conditions in Korea as their reason for teaching here. There is no question that living in Korea has become quite comfy in many respects in a few short decades. Its internet access is par excellence. The public transportation system is most convenient at reasonable prices. There are convenience stores, McDonald’s, Pizza Huts, Starbucks, and Costcos everywhere (well, Gwangju does not have a Costco yet).

I must say that it was not comfortable living conditions that kept me here in the early years. There was no indoor plumbing; spotty electricity supply; no gas supply; no telephone, television, refrigerator, or microwave in the average home; and no hamburgers, pizzas, or draft beer!

But there were many other things to keep a teacher here.

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As we can see from this little survey, there are many different but very good reasons bringing NESTs to Korea and keeping them here. NESTs in Korea, like teachers worldwide, are caring individuals, caring about their students, the future of the nation.

The Author

David Shaffer has lived and worked in Gwangju since he came here in the U.S. Peace Corps in 1971. He is vice-president of the Gwangju-Jeonnam Chapter of Korea TESOL (KOTESOL). On behalf of the chapter, he invites you to participate in the teacher development workshops at their monthly meetings. For many years, Dr. Shaffer has been a professor of English Language at Chosun University. He is a long-time member of KOTESOL, and at present he is national president. Dr. Shaffer credits KOTESOL for much of his professional development in English language teaching, scholarship, and leadership. He encourages you to get involved. He is board chair at the Gwangju International Center and also editor-in-chief of the Gwangju News.

GWANGJU-JEONNAM KOTESOL MONTHLY MEETING Date: July 13 (Saturday) Place: Gwangju National University of Education • Presentation 1: Code-Switching: Assist or Avoid?

by Bryan Alkema (Handong Global University, Pohang) • Presentation 2: To be announced.

• SwapShop: Share with the group your activity, teaching idea, etc.

For full event details: Website: koreatesol.org/gwangju Facebook: Gwangju-Jeonnam KOTESOL

July 2019

ROUNDING OUT THE LIST In addition to the above, there were several other responses, all worthy of mention. One NEST came to Korea to get early-career teaching experience. Teaching in an EFL environment cannot be replicated in an Englishspeaking country. Another NEST is here because of the

INTEGRATIVE MOTIVATION To my surprise, none of the responses were anything that would be classified as integrative motivation, although I consider it a strong force in keeping me here. I wanted to be able to speak the language to navigate life without a minder. I wanted to be thought of as just another member of the community rather than as the “ugly-duckling” foreigner in the neighborhood. These have kept me here, and to a certain extent, likely still are exerting a degree of influence.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

RELATIONSHIPS Several NESTs responded in the survey that it was because of their Korean spouse that they decided to move to Korea. A couple others said that they had first come to Korea in another capacity, liked it, and later became an English teacher here. While marriage may bring some to Korea, it more often ends up being something that keeps them here: one comes to the country single, finds a mate, starts a family… It is less likely that I would be in Korea today if I had not married after coming to Gwangju.

respect afforded teachers. And the reason given by yet another was “I like English.”

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www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2019

FOOD & DRINKS

38 Where to Eat

The two pork tacos came with a side of pickled cabbage and a smokey, spicy tomato sauce.

The shrimp tacos had deveined, peeled shrimp; arugula; and a mild sour cream drizzle.

The outside of the restaurant is bright orange, making it easy to spot once you turn the corner.

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These little gelatin dessert cups are inspired by Mexico.

The yellow gelatin dessert cup with the lime is inspired by the popular Mexican margarita. The red, white, and green cup is inspired by the Mexican flag.

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39

Ahorita

A Taste from South of the Border Written and photographed by Sarah Pittman

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his month’s restaurant has been causing quite a stir on the Gwangju Facebook page, so I decided to check it out. Ahorita is inspired by the owner and main chef ’s time spent in Mexico with her father. She fell in love with Mexican cuisine, and when her family moved back to South Korea, she decided that she wanted to share her love of Mexico with Gwangju.

a difficult, yet delicious, challenge. The arugula shrimp tacos came with a side of pickled pink cabbage and beets, which helped cut some of the spice of the basil chili sauce that also came with the shrimp tacos. I liked that Ahorita lets you control how fiery your meal can be by putting the spiciest component in a cup, so you can choose to pour it all on at once or spoon it onto each bite.

Firstly, the décor of Ahorita is fantastic, if maybe a tad bit over the top. The bright colors and traditional crafts give the restaurant a fun vibe. I loved hearing the Mexican rap songs and older mariachi songs in the restaurant.

The pork tacos were definitely unlike anything that I have ever tried back in California. I like how the carnitas-style pork, the pepperoni, and the cabbage worked together, but I am not too sure about the addition of the almonds.

The star of the show on the pork taco plate was most assuredly the smoky, spicy tomato sauce. I wish I could buy a bottle of it to take home and put on my breakfast eggs every morning! It reminded me of this handmade rojas salsa I used to have at my favorite fish taco joint back in California.

After taking a look at the menu and drooling over the tasty-looking photos, I decided to order the margarita gelatina, two of the pork tacos, and two of the arugula shrimp tacos. One nice thing that I appreciated about Ahorita is that they included an allergen warning for people with peanut allergies by putting a tiny peanut next to the name of the menu item.

The flour tortillas were very soft and would rip apart at barely the slightest pull, which made eating the taco

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t Daily, 11:30 a.m. – 3:00 p.m.; 5:00–10:00 p.m. (closed Mondays) P Jangdong-ro 23-49, Dong-gu, Gwangju 광주 동구 장동 장동로 23-49 À 062-222-7513

The Author

Sarah Pittman is an English teacher with a degree in psychology from California State University, Fullerton. She discovered her love for photography while working at Disneyland and has been honing her craft with practice and YouTube videos every since.

July 2019

Next to come out were the arugula shrimp tacos. These tacos are definitely on the larger size, which I appreciated with the 8,500-won price tag (12,000 won for three). The arugula was fresh and crunchy with a good bitter flavor like dark leafy greens should have. There was a creamy white sauce drizzled all over both of the tacos, but it was so mild in flavor that I was not too sure what it was supposed to be. I think that it was probably a sour cream sauce. The shrimp was cooked very well and was very tasty.

AHORITA 아오리따 www.gwangjunewsgic.com

The first item to come out was the margarita gelatina, accompanied by the tricolor gelatina. The owner was kind enough to include the tricolor for me to try, as it is advertised as the best choice on the menu. Even though the gelatinas, at 3,000 won a cup, are advertised as alcoholic, it was a barely noticeable addition to the desert.

I loved the sour and salty flavor of the margarita, and the cherry and lime gelatin in the tricolor was very tasty, too.

Overall, I greatly enjoyed my visit to Ahorita, and I would definitely like to visit with some friends sometime soon.

Be forewarned: Ahorita does have a siesta break every day at 3:00–5:00 p.m., so if you want to enjoy a late lunch there, the last order is at 2:15–2:30 p.m.

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www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2019

FOOD & & DRINKS DRINKS FOOD

40 40 Korean Recipe

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41

Bibimmyeon Spicy Cool Noodles Written by Joe Wabe

O

ne of the greatest ways to endure hot summers in Korea is through the enjoyment of cold and hot dishes during this season. “Heat beats heat” is a common expression here, and that’s why enjoying dishes like samgye-tang (삼계탕, ginseng chicken soup) is a common ritual. But while everywhere else in the world, people beat the summer heat with cold drinks, fruits, or ice cream, in Korea cold noodles are the norm. I have to admit that during my first summer here, cold noodles were something a little bit strange, and I wasn’t really a fan when introduced to them at first. But after a couple of tries, I was able to stir my palate and found myself – many summers later – craving a good plate of cold noodles every time hot summers arrived.

Bibim-myeon (비빔면) – this spicy, sweet, and sour dish is a favorite for spice-loving fans, and it’s made with somyeon (소면) or thin, wheat flour noodles. Its rich flavor comes from the combination of red pepper powder and paste along with minced garlic, vinegar, and sugar, which together produce its sweetness and sourness. The final stroke is a slight touch of sesame oil that will enhance the flavor. Fresh cucumbers added at the end will complete the coolness of the dish.

Photograph by Teri Lyn Fisher

The Author

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• • • • • • • • • •

1 small pack of thin noodles (somyeon) ½ cucumber 1 boiled egg 1 tablespoon of sugar (or green plum syrup) 1½ tablespoons of hot pepper paste 1 tablespoon of hot pepper powder 1 tablespoon of minced garlic 2 tablespoons of vinegar 1 tablespoon of sesame seeds 1 tablespoon of sesame oil

Preparation Cook the noodles in boiling water for about four to five minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water and set aside. In a separate bowl combine the hot pepper paste and powder, minced garlic, vinegar, sesame seeds and oil, and the green plum syrup or sugar, and mix well with a whisk. Slice the cucumber in thin, long strips, and cut the boiled eggs in half. Combine the sauce and the noodles, and mix well. Serve and garnish with cucumber and half a boiled egg per serving.

July 2019

Joe Wabe is an established photographer and Gwangju local business entrepreneur. He has been contributing to the GIC and the Gwangju News for more than eight years.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Best of all, it’s easy to put together. You could be enjoying this magnificent dish in less than 20 minutes. So let’s get cooling!

Ingredients (Two servings)

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www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2019

ARTS & CULTURE

42 Photo Essay

The 25th Gwangju International Community Day Written by the Gwangju International Center staff

T

he 25th Gwangju International Community Day (GIC Day) took place on Sunday, May 26, in downtown Gwangju at the ACC Plaza. Traditionally, GIC Day has been held in October every year hosted by Gwangju City and organized by the Gwangju International Center. This year’s GIC Day, however, was held in May as a joint celebration along with Together Day 2019, an annual event hosted by the Gwangju Immigration Office. Since its inception in 2005, the annual GIC Day has grown to be a truly “glocal” (global+local) event – one that is neither merely for the international community nor just for Koreans, but catering equally to both!

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43

Photographs by Hillel Kim, Sarah Pittman, and Choi Jin-ung

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July 2019

Also on Sunday, May 26, the 17th Annual May Concert was held in Theater 2 of the Asia Culture Center under the theme “From the Last 100 Years to the Next 100 Years” in joint commemoration of the 100 years since the March 1st Independence Movement as well as the May 18 Democratic Movement. The GIC Citizen’s Choir, a group comprised of both Korean and international residents of Gwangju, collaborated with the participating local Korean and international musicians in beautiful harmony in this year’s May concert. The emotional highlight came when the roughly 350 audience members joined the assembled group of performers to rise and sing together the anthem “Marching for Our Beloved” for the finale.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

About 2,000 attendees visited the more than 60 booths of groups that joined this year’s event, including food booths, community booths, and culture booths, representing 20 countries from all over the world. The award for Best Food Booth went to Jayanthi Karunanidhi’s Indian Food, while a total of four culture booths, those representing Indonesia, Bangladesh, Romania, and Peru, shared the honor of “Offering best hands-on experiences.”

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www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2019

44

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www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2019

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2019-06-28 �� 5:10:20

46 Book Review

“Is There Nothing to Grab Onto When We Feel So Hollow?”

Eight Voices of Korean Short Fiction Speaking Out

ARTS & CULTURE

Written by Kristy Dolson

T

his month I chose to review Wayfarer: New Fiction

by Korean Women. It is an anthology of eight stories written by well-known Korean authors, translated and edited by Bruce and Ju-Chan Fulton. Each story deals in some way with a Korean individual struggling to adapt to the new country and culture emerging from the turbulent 1980s – the authoritarian state and student movements that gave way to the democracy and rapid economic development of the 1990s.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2019

The writing styles of this collection vary from the straightforward to the surreal. The translators, a married duo with lots of translating experience, did a wonderful job of converting the nuances and layers of each story to English without losing any weight or momentum. There are some hauntingly beautiful passages in this book. In the title story written by Oh Jung Hee, I re-read sentences just to savor their beauty. There were also times when I had to re-read passages to fully understand their meaning, though. This collection certainly makes you work at times, but the rewards are well worth it.

These stories are important because they are doorways into a history and culture that have been closed off for so long.

For much of Korea’s history, men have held the pen – quite literally – being the only ones eligible to study the Chinese characters that were used for writing. With the introduction of Hangeul, there was a surge in female writers, but their writing was segregated and diminished. However, with the influx of Western social and economic influences in recent decades, Korean women have exploded onto the literary scene. International recognition has followed, with female authors such as Shin Kyung-sook (Please Look After Mom) and Han Kang (The Vegetarian and Human Acts) earning critical acclaim for their portrayals of women and children and the negative ripple effects of Confucian familial loyalty in modern-day South Korea.

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The undercurrent of disconnection in Korean society, which is still so influenced by the communal culture and loyalty to family above all else, is striking. This is best demonstrated in Kim Min Suk’s story “Scarlet Fingernails,” about a woman who never knew her father because he abandoned his family to become a communist in North Korea. This brought great shame and economic ruin to his family under the harsh anti-communist edicts of South Korea. The major themes of the anthology, evident in every story, are loss and alienation. Most of the narrators spend a lot of time in reflection contemplating the past, although that past is objectively no better than the present. It would seem that the communal hopes and rebellious actions of the 1980s turned to individual despair and bitterness in the 1990s. It was an eye-opening read for me, and I learned a lot about South Korea’s recent history and culture.

This anthology was published in 1997, and I am eager to read stories by women who have come of age in the two decades since then. The Fultons have published another anthology titled The Future of Silence, which includes stories written for the new millennium. It will be fascinating to see what effects contemporary policies and pressures will have on the current generation of South Korean writers and their futures. Perhaps, like Oh Jung Hee’s protagonist, they must continue to make their way into the darkness one step at a time. Or maybe the next generation will shed new light on the road ahead. Either way, I cannot wait to see what comes next.

The Author

Kristy Dolson lived in South Korea for five years before taking a year off to travel, read, and spend time with her family in Canada and Australia. She holds a Bachelor of Education and now lives in Yeosu, where she splits her time between teaching at the new Jeollanamdo International Education Institute and reading as much as she can.

2019-06-28 �� 5:10:20

Gwangju Writes 47

Gwangju City’s Five Ss Written and photographed by Carlota Smith

F

THE STRENGTH OF CHARACTER For someone to understand the city folks best, they must know a little of the city’s history. It is a city known for its feisty and collective power. Gwangju people are in a close-knit web in which people, especially foreigners, imbibe this feeling, thus engaging themselves in a closer encounter with others. All over the place, the picture tells you that Gwangju folks do not know fear and are not ones to back down. The May 18th Memorial Cemetery or the movie A Taxi Driver will educate you. To survive in this city, it helps if you are strong-willed.

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commend the social involvement and friendliness of most people I have met. I lived in a one-room villa, and I will not forget how kind my landlord was. He saw me with just my luggage upon moving in, and he was so quick to offer some dishes and some pots for me to use.

That kindness was on top of the fact that I did not need to pay my security deposit, or yeyak-geum (예약금), since I was at that time financially broke. Was he not amazing? I have heard of people struggling to get a house because of the security deposit, but here I was, in front of a fatherly figure offering me kindness with no expectation of anything in return. Well, in return I took the initiative to clean the hallway to my heart’s content on the weekends.

THE SULTRINESS In Gwangju, one always has a feeling of dynamic personalities. This is not only obvious in people’s attitude

July 2019

THE SOCIAL INVOLVEMENT I remember the first time somebody asked me what my impression of Gwangju was. I proudly said, “Gwangju people are rough.” After a while, I changed my mind. I

▲ The Choi Family in Gochang. They were the first family to take me as their own.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

THE SINCERITY Have you heard of anyone who is utterly sincere in their words? I have been blessed to have met people who sincerely had faith in me. It may sound sobby, but I am not ashamed to always share this story. My first few months as an international student had been rough and while on the verge of giving up, one of my professors stood up for me and only good things followed. Taking a bullet for him and his family would not be difficult for me. Working in various organizations has also allowed me to encounter sincere and honest Gwangju folks.

The Gwangju International Center (GIC) and City Hall people deserve special mention.

ARTS & CULTURE

ive years is not a long time to get to know a city such as Gwangju. It may have been a quick yet exhilarating ride to survive the hustle and bustle of this city, but it is something I will always hold dear. It is a home to many foreigners just like me. There are five special things that I believe make Gwangju the easiest and most comfortable place to be, and they all begin with “S.”

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48

▲ Food will never run out. Food and smiles are in abundance.

AND THE SMILE I like the prompters they have at every bus stop. The videos show how one smile can change the mood of the day. Indeed, every place I go, I met people with extraordinary smiles that diffused all my insecurities and my worries. I have been lonely for a while, but when I started to check at every bus stop, I learned Gwangju’s way of life and eventually their smile.

Written by Yi Yuksa (이육사, 1939) Translated by David E. Shaffer

July 2019

Green Grapes

It has been barely three months that I have been away, but I do terribly miss Gwangju. It is a city worthy of going back to.

The blue sea beneath the sky bares her bosom And the ship in white sail is gently pushed in

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

but also in their food. You would not be a loner if you were to go to a gathering because everyone shares the mood and the food. Gwangju folks love to eat, and they eat with gusto. They often ask me to diet, but then they take me to sumptuous meals with so much to eat that it became hard to breathe. I guess it also adds to the strength of the people, young and old.

The Author

Carlota Smith is an international student and researcher, and a language enthusiast.

She has worked as an English professor in the Philippines, but from 2014–2018, she attended and completed an MA TESOL program at Gwangju University. She enjoyed volunteering at the GIC and at the Gwangju Metropolitan City Hall (GMCH). Carlota likes to think that Gwangju is her home away from her hometown, Baguio City, in the Philippines.

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The July of my hometown, The season of ripening green grapes Whisperings of an approaching village epoch The far-off sky dreams and little by little sets in

The guest whom I await, with body so weary Draped in grape-green topcoat, said he would call on me If I could but meet him to pick and partake of these grapes Getting my two hands dripping wet would be such a pleasure On our table, my child, place the whitest ramie serviette Upon a silver tray.

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Gwangju Writes 49

The Poem and the Poet

T

he life of Yi Yuksa (1904–1944) very closely paralleled the years of Japanese domination of the Korean Peninsula. In his short years, Yi did much more than write “Green Grapes”: He also wrote essays on topics from metaphysics to history and politics; he was an ardent political activist and still found time to write thirty-six poems exhibiting the height of poetic technique.

내 고장 칠월은 청포도가 익어 가는 시절 이 마을 전설이 주저리주저리 열리고 먼 데 하늘이 꿈꾸며 알알이 들어와 박혀

흰 돛 단 배가 곱게 밀려서 오면 내가 바라는 손님은 고달픈 몸으로 청포(靑袍)를 입고 찾아온다고 했으니 내 그를 맞아 이 포도를 따 먹으면 두 손은 함뿍 적셔도 좋으련 아이야 우리 식탁엔 은쟁반에

Though cloaked in metaphor (necessitated by the times in which

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Dr. David E. Shaffer is a longtime resident of Gwangju who was for many years a professor at Chosun University. He is now the board chair of the Gwangju International Center and editorin-chief of the Gwangju News. He has written extensively on English teaching and learning, and has published books on Korean language, poetry, and traditional culture. Dr. Shaffer was also the 1994 top prize winner of The Korea Times’ Modern Korean Literature Translation Awards in the poetry division.

July 2019

하이얀 모시 수건을 마련해 두렴

Bright and uplifting colors – images of hope – interfuse “Green Grapes.” Evident are the greenblues (green grapes, grape-green topcoat, blue sea, sky) and the whites (white sail, whitest ramie serviette, silver tray). Less evident, but ever present, is the darkness of the times (far-off sky, body so weary).

The Author

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

하늘 밑 푸른 바다가 가슴을 열고

Since Yi was so active for Korean independence from Japanese imperialism and jailed multiple times, his poetry often strongly reflects his political bent, but at other times, it is much more lyrical. “Green Grapes” is representative of the latter.

It is a pity that Yi was not able to “pick and partake” of Korean independence regained. For Yi, “body so weary” most likely referred not only to the freedom fighters of his poem but to the poet himself. Yi Yuksa died in a Japanese prison in Beijing in 1944, a year before the “guest” arrived in his hometown of green grapes.

ARTS & CULTURE

청포도

Though given the birth name “Won-rok,” Yi is commonly known by his penname, “Yuksa,” a monicker originating from his political activities. Imprisoned by the Japanese at the age of 24 for anti-imperial activities and confined to cell number “264” (“i-yuk-sa” in Korean), Yi took the penname “Yuksa,” pronounced the same as his cell number, as a perpetual reminder of the oppression of the times in which he lived.

he lived), Yi’s ardent nationalism seeps through. Yi’s hometown is the home of the Korean people, the fatherland, now occupied. But Yi envisions independence coming (whisperings of an approaching village epoch, ripening green grapes), an independence most welcome to the Korean people (the blue…sea bares her bosom). This freedom was not to come on its own: It needed to be persistently fought for to be achieved (little by little sets in, is gently pushed in). Independence is the coming “guest” that is being dreamed of, a guest weary from his struggles, who would be most splendidly received (place the whitest ramie serviette / Upon a silver tray).

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50 Opinion

Point, Shoot, Snitch The Rise of Tattletale Apps Written by William Urbanski

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2019

OPINION

W

hen I first learned that Gwangju citizens could use an app to report parking violations that would result in stiff fines, I was seized by an overwhelming sense of ambivalence. On one hand, the rampant, blatant, and outright flagrant parking violations that occur every minute of every day are a scourge on our fair city. Any effort to address the problem is a step in the right direction. On the other hand, is it really the responsibility of private citizens to enforcing parking laws? It turns out that private citizens using their phones to report parking violations through an app is only a small part of a much bigger phenomenon in Korea: tattletale apps that allow people to file complaints against a wide range of “daily-life inconveniences.” What’s unclear is if tattletale apps amount to little more than a half-baked scare tactic or a carefully crafted response to complicated and multifaceted problems.

As Figure 1 clearly illustrates, what’s astounding about this app is the breadth of violations that one can report.

GETTING BUSTED FAIR AND SQUARE – THE PHOTO RADAR PROBLEM To add a little bit of context, in my home province of Ontario, Canada, photo radar was done away with long ago. This scheme, which automatically snapped pictures of speeding cars and issued a ticket, was eliminated after massive public backlash. The hugely unpopular initiative was seen as nothing more than a cash grab that did nothing to increase public safety. On top of this, part of the anger at photo radar had to do with cameras doing the job of police officers. So on the surface, while photo radar and tattletale apps seem like different issues, they share the common characteristic of shifting responsibility of law enforcement away from professionals. That, I feel, is the crux of the issue: getting a ticket issued by a uniformed, designated officer is one thing. Getting a ticket because some citizen went out of his or her way to live out a repressed fantasy of being a crime-fighting vigilante is another thing entirely.

THE FIRST TAKEDOWNS For reasons of journalistic integrity, I felt it was important to test out the app. To do this, there was no better place than my neighbourhood, where people routinely park like giant recessive genes. After downloading the app and going through a quick verification process, it was time to become the living embodiment of Frankie the Squealer of The Simpsons fame.

TATTLETALE OPTIONS The major app in question is called saenghwal bulpyeon shingo (생활불편신고). Roughly translated, it means “life inconvenience reporting.” For those of you who like being a tattletale, the life-inconvenience-reporting app offers no shortage of options, including the ones in Figure 1.

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Figure 1: The Cycle of Squeal

The way the app works is that the user has to take two separate pictures of each parking violation, at least five minutes apart.

After uploading my first series of pics, one of a car parked on a crosswalk and the other in front of a fire hydrant, I felt a momentary pang of guilt for the owners of the vehicle, knowing that it was me who was responsible for their future financial losses. That feeling soon passed as I remembered that both of these drivers deserved whatever was coming to them, regardless of my participation.

I just like squealing!

It makes me feel big!

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51 With giddy anticipation, I awaited the confirmation about the status of my complaint…and then disaster struck.

Because I took one of the pictures after 10:00 p.m., the parking on the crosswalk violation was exempt. This is how I learned that for various reasons, such as encouraging businesses, parking laws are only enforced during certain times. My second attempt was also rejected because “the fire hydrant didn’t have a sign warning people not to park there.” I’m no scientist, but I’m pretty sure that the chemical reaction that causes fire occurs independently of whether or not a fire hydrant has a no parking sign on it. Major facepalm.

Tattletale apps contain an inherent contradiction. They ask the same people who can’t take one minute of their time to park properly to spend five minutes to report a violation. Is it a really good idea to ask the citizens, who, as a body, are the perpetrators of violations, to police themselves? Even if someone can be bothered to use the app and experiences the undeniable thrill that comes with being a tattletale, that feeling of smug satisfaction is outweighed by the fact that telling on people does little to address the real problem: lax enforcement of unevenly applied laws. Getting back to the example of the fire hydrant, there should be no exceptions: Just don’t park in front of one. So really, what’s the point of using the app if the violations will just be excused?

Driving and parking in Korea is a big source of contention here – particularly for those with experience operating a motor vehicle abroad. It’s very easy to get mad at the moron who parks right in an intersection, blocking traffic as well as obstructing the views of oncoming cars, and then point the finger at the police officers who are not doing their jobs. In all seriousness, this casual disregard for driving laws, and by extension, public safety, is a multifaceted and complicated issue that has no simple

or clear solution. The whole phenomenon of ignoring parking laws strikes to the very core of the question of how laws are meant to work. Are they meant as hard and fast rules that are in place for the greater good? Or do they serve as suggested guidelines?

THE DIRTY TRUTH There was a counter-intuitive revelation that came with using the saenghwal-bulpyeon-shingo app: It’s actually a lot of fun! The closest thing I could compare using the app to is the Pokemon Go phenomenon from a few years back. It’s seriously a good time to sneak up on a car, snap a pic, and report it. My recommendation is this: If you’re bored and looking for a free, good time, then get together with some friends and make an afternoon of walking around your neighbourhood and busting people. Maybe even buy dinner for the person who reports the most violations. Make a game of it, have fun, but just don’t for a second trick yourself into believing that you’re making any sort of difference in the world.

In the meantime, if you’re a driver and are concerned about being ticketed through this or other apps, here’s a tip to keep yourself safe from getting tickets: If you get out of your car and realize that you’re parked where you shouldn’t be, then open your car door, put your car in neutral, and Flintstones-push that sucker for two meters.

You never know who may be lurking in the shadows with their saenghwal-bulpyeon-shingo app.

Graphics and photograph by William Urbanski

The Author

William Urbanski is from Canada and has lived in Korea for about seven years. He is married to a wonderful Korean woman and can eat spicy food.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

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July 2019

The “Flintstones-Push”: a sure-fire way to avoid a parking ticket.

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52

Gwangju Happenings Compiled by Baek Ji-yeon

MONTHLY NEWS

Masterpieces of Cizhou Ware from China: The Art of Black and White 중국 자주요 도자 명품전 - 흑백의 향연

2019 대한민국 100년, 역사를 바꾼 10장면 사진 전시회

The Gwangju National Museum presents this exhibition of Cizhou ceramics as part of the World Ceramics Culture Exhibition. In this exhibition, visitors can learn about the history of ceramics in the early 20th century from the Jia-yuan period of Hebei Province, China.

This special exhibition is being held jointly with the Korean History Museum and will run from February through December. The museum has selected ten events that have changed the history of the Republic of Korea. They are as follows: the March 1 Movement (3.1 운동), the establishment of the provisional Korean government (대한민국 임시정부 수립), the Independence Movement (독립운동), the Gwangju Student Independence Movement (광주학생독립운동), liberation (광복), the establishment of the constitution and government (헌법 제정과 정부 수립), the Korean War (6.25 전쟁), the April 19 Revolution (4.19 혁명), the May 18 Gwangju Democratic Movement (5.18 광주민주화운동), and the June Democratic Uprising (6월 민주항쟁).

t May 28 – August 18 P 110 Haseo-ro, Buk-gu, Gwangju

(Gwangju National Museum)

광주 북구 하서로 110 광주국립박물관 기획전시실

￦ TBA À 062-570-7034 ` https://gwangju.museum.go.kr/

2019 ACC Matching Project : Korean and Asian Artists Exhibition “LIGHT ON THE MOVE” 2019 지역∙ 아시아 작가 매칭전 This event, known as Light on the Move, is an exhibition that examines the perspectives and expressions of artists living in the same era that are both the same and different by matching artists in Jeollanamdo, including Gwangju and Asians artists, based on the same keywords, “light, space and history,” which can symbolically reveal the characteristics of Gwangju. The exhibition aims to look into how the artists of the regions and Asia display their stories and perspectives on life.

July 2019

t June 21 – September 1, 10:00–18:00 P 38 Munhwa-jeondang-ro, Dong-gu, Gwangju

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Photo Exhibition: 2019 Republic of Korea 100 years – 10 Scenes that Changed History

(Asia Culture Center) Space 6

광주 동구 문화전당로 38 아시아문화전당 문화창조원 복합6관

￦ Free À 1899-5566 ` http://acc.go.kr

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t February 28 – December 15 P 110 Haseo-ro, Buk-gu, Gwangju (Gwangju National

Museum, Lobby)

광주 북구 하서로 110 국립광주박물관 로비

￦ Free À 062-570-7000 ` https://gwangju.museum.go.kr/kor/index.do

Beijing Creative Center’s 10th Anniversary “Beijing Correspondence” 북경창작센터 10주년 기념 특별전 <북경서신> The Gwangju Museum of Art opened the Beijing Creative Center in close proximity to the 798 Cultural Arts Zone in late 2009 to provide support for creative activities by local artists and opportunities to enter the world art scene. Between 2010 and last year, there have been 42 local artists and 2 planners who have resided there. Starting in 2011, mainly Chinese artists have been targeted as short-term resident writers. The Beijing Creative Center will be moved to Songbai Art District, where artists’ studios and galleries are concentrated since 2017. t June 11 – October 13 P 52 Haseo-ro, Buk-gu, Gwangju

(Gwangju Museum of Art, Exhibition Halls 5, 6) 광주 북구 하서로 52 광주시립미술관 본관 제5, 6전시실

￦ Free À 062-570-7000 ` http://artmuse.gwangju.go.kr

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Happening Regularly 2019 Gwangju Fringe Festival 2019 광주 프린지 페스티벌 The Fringe Festival, a cultural festival of Gwangju, the city of cultural and arts, will be held every Saturday from April to December. It is an open-air cultural event where amateur and professional artists as well as citizens participate freely without being bound by genre, format, or fixed frame, and stage various presentations such as performances, mimes, dance, and K-pop. t April–December (every Saturday) P Along Geumnam-ro, Dong-gu, Gwangju

￦ Free (paid programs are optional) À 062-223-0410 ` http://fringefestival.kr/

2019 Art Night Daein Market 2019 대인예술야시장 Every Saturday beginning April 26, you will be able to see various handmade products, such as accessory DIY products, sold by night market sellers composed of artists and young people while enjoying experiences, food, and other themed performances. t Every Saturday beginning April 26 P Daein Market’s 1st parking lot,

7-1 Jebong-ro 194-beon-gil, Dong-gu, Gwangju 광주 동구 제봉로 194번길 7-1 대인시장 제1주차장

￦ Depends on activity. À 062-223-1420 ` https://daeinmarket.modoo.at/

1930 Yangnim Salon

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Art Picnic “Open” 아트피크닉 ‘펼치다’ Gwangju City is showing “Art Family Picnic, Season 2.” We will continue to run a permanent program of the experiences of art picnic, chalk art family, and color play, which ride on popular tin trains. A preliminary competition scheduled for mid-June will be announced on the homepage and applications received in advance. This gives children who come to Art Picnic an opportunity to realize their dreams.

Art Picnic presents a variety of arts + performance + humanities + value-added programs in all four seasons. This year’s concerts are held in March and April. t March–October P 52 Haseo-ro, Buk-gu, Gwangju

(Gwangju Museum of Art, Exhibition Halls 3 & 4) 광주 북구 하서로 52 광주시립미술관 본관 제3, 4 전시실

￦ Free À 070-4727-4341 ` http://www.artpicnic.kr/

Shining Street, Art Street Gung-dong 빛나는 거리, 예술로 궁동 This year’s street festival will be held on October 26 under the theme of “Shining Streets, Art Street Gung-dong.” The festival will be held 20 times during the day and ten times during the evening. A small art market and an “art and marketplace” will also be held, offering small, fun ideas and rich sights. It is a program that citizens can participate in, including activities such as “Do Not Worry, You! (Art Psychotherapy),” a QR code to explore every corner of “Digital Experiences,” and activities to write a message of hope called “Express Your Wish!” t April 20 – October 26 P Along Art Street, Dong-gu, Gwangju 광주 동구 궁동 예술의 거리 일대

￦ Depends on activity. ` https://blog.naver.com/butterflyart

July 2019

The “1930 Yangnim Salon” is a multi-cultural festival that takes place in Yangnim-dong, a modern historical and cultural neighborhood, with various cultural venues and unique cafes in the program. Started in 2016, this year marks the fourth year for the “Salon” to be held. In the “1930 Yangnim Salon,” Gwangju’s “Modern” theme is featured in various programs such as performances, exhibitions, literature, markets, and fashion. This year, the romantic season (a.k.a. art season, a.k.a. theme event) will be held six times in total.

Yangnim Travel Lounge ￦ Depends on activity. À 070-4239-5040 ` http://salon1930.com/

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

1930양림쌀롱

t April–August P 27-2 Yangchon-gil, Nam-gu, Gwangju

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Gwangju Theater P 62 Chungjang-ro 5-ga, Dong-gu, Gwangju (Two blocks behind NC Wave) ￦ 8,000 won À 062-224-5858 ` http://cafe.naver.com/cinemagwangju (Korean) * Synopses excerpted from Wikipedia, IMDb, and Hancinema. All English language films are presented with Korean subtitles; non-English international films are presented with Korean subtitles only.

HAPPY AS LAZZARO 행복한 라짜로

Genre: Drama, Fantasy Director: Alice Rohrwacher Film Length: 127 minutes Language: Italian (Korean subtitles) Starring: Adriano Tardiolo, Agnese Graziani, Alba Rohrwacher An unceasingly kind Italian peasant and his family are blatantly exploited by a tobacco baroness.

HAPPY END 해피 엔드

Genre: Drama Director: Michael Haneke Film Length: 107 minutes Languages: French, English (Korean subtitles) Starring: Isabelle Huppert, Jean-Louis Trintignant, Mathieu Kassovitz A drama about a family set in Calais, with the European refugee crisis as the backdrop.

GALVESTON 갤버스턴

Genre: Drama Director: Melanie Laurent Film Length: 94 minutes Language: English (Korean subtitles) Starring: Ben Foster, Jeffrey Grover, Christopher Amitrano After escaping a set up, a dying hitman returns to his hometown of Galveston, where he plans his revenge.

South Jeolla Happenings Jeongnamjin Jangheung Water Festival 정남진장흥물축제

Genre: Drama, Comedy Director: Gilles Lellouche Film Length: 122 minutes Language: Korean (No subtitle) Starring: Mathieu Amalric, Guillaume Canet, Benoît Poelvoorde

t July 26 – August 1 P ㅓ무Jangheung-ro 21, Jangheung-eup, Jangheung-gun, Jeollanam-do 전라남도 장흥군 장흥읍 장흥로 21 ￦ Free À 061-863-7071 ` http://festival.jangheung.go.kr/festival

A depressed man joins a synchronized swimming team made up of middleaged men.

Muan Lotus Festival

SINK OR SWIM 수영장으로 간 남자들

MARIA BY CALLAS

마리아 칼라스:세기의 디바

Genre: Drama Director: Tom Volf Film Length: 113 minutes Language: English, French, Italian (Korean subtitle) Starring: Fanny Ardant, Joyce DiDonato, Maria Callas

An intimate look at the life and work of Greek-American opera singer Maria Callas, as told in her own words.

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무안연꽃축제 t July 25–28 P Baekryeon-ro 333, Ilro-eup, Muan-gun, Jeollanam-do 전라남도 무안군 일로읍 백련로 333 ￦ Free À 061-450-5114 ` http://tour.muan.go.kr

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CROSSWORD PUZZLE Created by Jon Dunbar

ARTS ARTS && CULTURE CULTURE

ACROSS

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DOWN 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 16 19 23 24 25 26

Uninteresting World athletic event in Gwangju Go with the ___ Yogurt flavor Ancient Greek dialect Ancient Korean confederation Beer order units Traditional dress K-pop performer Ppongjjak Fast food meals, here Haleakala site Not far Rap doctor Gina Haspel’s agency Korean bar “Be ___ guest”

27 28 29 30 32 33 36 37 39 40 41 42 43 45 46 47 48 50

Truck manufacturer Actress Longoria ___ Mahal Simpsons disco fanatic South Jeolla Provincial office replacement “All I ___ to do” Hyundai electric cars Film ___ Goes with rights or opportunity Spicy Indian dish Opposite of base Goo Hara’s former band Tehran’s location Wanes Mona or Simpson “Star Wars” walker vehicle Demilitarized ___ Maeil’s yogurt brand

Look for the answers to this crossword puzzle to appear in August in Gwangju News Online (www.gwangjunewsgic.com)

July 2019

27 31 32 34 35 37 38 39 41 44 49

Bosom buddy Pirate’s leg Receipts Korean smoke-free cig Volcanic Mauna ___ Crew Abnormality Nose Michael Simning’s signature shirt Bacon sandwiches Korean Armistice Agreement signatory Former name of Tokyo Builder of “Korea’s most unusual Japanese-era hanok” Mudeung, Malbau, and Myeongdong Debt promise Awake Consumer’s tax From Botswana or Rwanda Gwangju neighbor CJ E&M channel Environmental prefix Comparable Local Mexican restaurant Kalina

Offering at 44 across Baghdad resident Speakeasy or First Alleyway Mountain, in Korean Korean bamboo flute ___ and the Family Stone Consumed

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

1 4 7 12 13 14 15 17 18 20 21 22 24

51 52 53 54 55 56 57

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Community Board

Have something you want to share with the community?

The Community Board provides a space for the community to announce activities and special events. Please contact gwangjunews@gic.or.kr for more information.

Gwangju Inter FC

LONGEVITY - ethnic patchwork -

The Gwangju International Soccer Team (Gwangju Inter FC) plays regularly every weekend. If you are interested in playing, email seehand@naver.com, phone or text 0107126-1207 Facebook: Gwangju Inter FC

Sunday Yoga with Emily

Every Sunday (unless otherwise stated on the Facebook page) 2–3 p.m., GIC Hall (1st floor) Appropriate for all levels. Classes are taught in English.

Donation is encouraged.

Facebook: Gwangju Yoga with Emily

“LONGEVITY” Ethnic Patchwork 2019 Exhibition, by Dawon Art GIC Language Exchange July 1–30 (Opening: July 20, 5 p.m.), GIC Gallery The society we are encountering today is becoming more and more borderless. Contrary to this idea of a borderless society, what often appears on the surface are social issues including the recent mass shooting in New Zealand, such as various forms of discrimination, hate crimes, and refugee issues, which make us question if this really is the borderless society we thought it would be. So, we would like to refer to our society as an “Ethnic Patchwork” including all of the positive and negative connotations that go along with such a term. Additionally, we hope that each individual culture can connect and interweave different thoughts and ideas that will make the real borderless society like the Patchwork.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

July 2019

Unesco Kona Volunteers

KONA Storybook Center (KSC) is a registered small public library supported by UNESCO KONA Volunteers (UKV). UKV is a registered organization that helps disadvantaged children learn English independently through storybooks and story-maps. We guide families and children to develop a love of reading storybooks in English. We also give guidance to volunteers in using storybooks. We are looking for long-term volunteers who desire to enrich their lives. We are asking volunteers to commit to helping at least once a month.

Every Wednesday, 6:30–8:30 p.m., GIC Hall (1st floor) Korean–English Language Exchange Facebook: GIC Language Exchange

Gwangju Spanish Club

Every two weeks on Saturdays, 3:30–5:30 p.m., GIC Global Lounge (1st floor) Spanish – English – Korean Language Exchange No importa tu nivel de español. ¡Únetenos!

Facebook: Gwangju Spanish Club – Int/Adv

GIC Citizens’ Choir

Are you interested in joining a choir? The GIC Citizens’ Choir is inviting sopranos, altos, tenors and basses. Send your application to gic@gic.or.kr with the following information: name, phone number, email, voice part, and brief self-introduction on your singing experiences.

You can also visit and observe the GIC Citizens’ Choir rehearsing on the first floor of the GIC at 10:00 a.m. every other Saturday.

For more information, please visit http://cafe.daum. net/konavolunteers or our Facebook pages for KONA Storybook Center and UNESCO KONA Volunteers. Also, you can contact Kim Young-im at 062-434-9887 or email konacenter@gmail.com.

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Attorney Attorney Park’s Park’s Law Law Firm Firm We're ready to serve your best interests in legal disputes.

We provide affordable consultation & representation.

▶ Areas of Specialty contracts, torts, family law, immigration, labor ▶ Civil & Criminal Attorney Park, Duckhee

former judge, GIC board member Services available in Korean, English & Chinese

#402 Simsan Bldg, 342-13 Jisan-dong, Dong-gu, Gwangju Location: next to Gwangju District Court

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Tel: 062) 222-0011 Fax: 062)222-0013 duckheepark@hanmail.net

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2019-06-28 �� 4:58:19