Gwangju News International Magazine for Gwangju and Jeollanam-do
February 2010 Volume 10, Issue 2
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Gwangju News February 2010
Contributors
Contents Gwangju News 4
February 2010, Volume 10, Issue 2 Publisher: Prof. Shin Gyong-gu
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The Korean Way No. 84: Korean Miners and Nurses in Germany
By 2Ys
The Year of Tiger, 2010 By Ahn Hong-pyo
Editor in Chief: Doug Stuber Editor: Jon Ozelton
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A Voice for Migrant Workers By Alva French
Coordinator: Kim Minsu
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Layout and Design: Kim Minsu
Hwaseong By Justin Barrass
Proofreaders: Pete Schandall, Mike Begin, Rob Smith, Laura Sparley, Hughie Samson, Kathleen Villadiego, Dan Lister
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Seollal Past and Present By Park Min-ji and Ko Nam-il
Printed by: Saenal
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Korean Easy-Cook Recipe: Ddeokguk By Park Suji
Photographer: David Little Cover Photo: Skier looking down the slope from the top of Muju Mountain
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The Hairdresser’s House – Life in a “Slabjib” By Miriam Ho
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Useful Korean Phrases By Noh In-woo
Gwangju News uses 100% E-PLUS recycled paper provided by Daehan Paper in Seoul. www.daehanpaper.co.kr
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A Wii bit of time on your hands? By Chris Lashwood
Special thanks to the City of Gwangju and all of our sponsors.
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Surviving “Comfort Women” Rally at 900th Protest By Michael Solis
Copyright by the Gwangju International Center.All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by this copyright may be reproduced in any form or by any means - graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise - without the written consent of the publishers.
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Photo Contest
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Seomjingang Train Village
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Speakeasy: Where You’ll Never Drink Alone… By Brian Burgoyne
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Makkoli, New Incarnations of a Traditional ’Ju
Gwangju News welcomes letters to the editor (gwangjunews@gmail.com) regarding articles and issues. All correspondence may be edited for reasons of clarity or space.
By Adam Bourque
By Maria Lisak 32
Varieties of Tea Plants
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How to Sort Your Garbage for Collection
By Waran Parsons
By Kim Minsu 36
KoreaMaria: Minsokchon
Kim’ s Dental Clinic
By Maria Lisak 37
In Praise of Hoddok: The Korean Pancake Experience By Andrew O’Donnell
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Film Review: Insadong Scandal By Adam Bourque
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Cartoon By Leroy Kucia
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Upcoming Events
Gwangju News February 2010
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The Korean Way
The Korean Way No. 84
Korean Miners and Nurses in Germany
K
indicated the job-scarce society. By orea was in a political and social getting a mining job in a faraway country, turmoil in the early 1960s. The they wanted to help out their family. The government party under lobby of Gimpo airport turned into a President Syngman Rhee rigged the place of tears of parting families. The March 15th 1960 presidential election number of miners sent to Germany until which led to students uprising. Students 1977 was 7,932 and they sent 70-90% of demanded reelection. Not a day passed their earnings to their family in Korea, without student demonstrations in which amounted to 50 millon dollars a March and April, 1960 and these year, equivalent to 2% of Korean GNP. It demonstrations culminated in the April was quite a help for the Korean economic 19 Student Revolution, resulting in the recovery. collapse of the Syngman Rhee government. The ensuing year after the A similar tearful story goes for the Korean student revolution witnessed a chaotic nurses. The first group of nurses arrived social situation. The student forces, after in Berlin in 1966 were 1,126 and the total bringing down the lawful government, number of nurses sent to Germany until the first time ever in world history, even envisioned that they could replace the Korean miners and nurses in Germany 1976 was 10,226. The work of Korean nurses was quite laudable and one senior established older generation and they nurse was reported as saying that Korean nurses were even planned to go to Panmunjeon to negotiate referred to as “Korean angels” by German media; Korean unification with North Korean delegates. One year after nurses’ initial work was to cleanse stiffened dead bodies. this kind of social turmoil, a group of young army officers under Major General Park Chung-hee staged a coup d'état The miners and nurses were to stay in Germany for three on May 16, 1961, bringing a stop to unruly years and a certain portion of their earnings had to be demonstrations. sent home to Korea. Their money thus sent to Korea was Korea was devastated during the Korean War 1950-53 and relied on foreign aid for survival and there was no country in the world that would offer financial loans to Korea in the early 1960s. When General Park Chung-hee became president in 1962 and visited U.S.A. and asked for a commercial loan, his plea was cordially turned down. At around this time Germany needed many foreign mining workers for its coal mines and many nurses for its hospitals and an arrangement was concluded for Korea to send those workers to Germany. At this time job seekers were abundant in Korea and when the mining jobs were announced the applicants’ ratio was 100 to 1. In December 1963 the first group of 500 miners was flown to Germany from Gimpo Airport. Most of them were either college graduates or college dropout students, which
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certainly a seed money for the Korean economic growth in the 1970s. There is an episode surrounding President Park’s visit to Germany at around this time. Visiting Germany at the invitation of the German government, President Park made an arrangement to meet the Korean workers to give them words of encouragement. When the time came to sing the national anthem, however, strangely nobody tried to sing, and instead sobbing and crying were heard. The audience were moved on the spur of the moment. Witnessing this scene, President Park himself wept with the audience in sympathy and could not finish his prepared speech. By 2Ys (An audacious pen name standing for Too Wise, whose real name acronym is S. S. S.)
Culture
The Year of Tiger, 2010
T
iger! Tiger! Tiger! The tiger is related to us in a few ways. First, many readers of the Gwangju News probably enjoyed the victory of the KIA Tigers last year. Second, many of you possibly have seen an image of the Korean peninsula, which some people say looks a little like a tiger. In addition, some of you were probably born in the year of tiger, which happens every twelve years, counting back from 2010.
as stated in “Hohwanmama”. Here, “Hohwan” means some harm on people or property by tigers and “mama” refers to smallpox. In every Korean VTR tape in the past, there was a warning included, which read “For children in the past, the most fearful catastrophes were hohwan, mama and war”.
According to ancestors’ beliefs, a person who is a tiger is thought to have great talent in leading people by his early maturity. He gets promoted quickly in The idea that each of twelve animals represents a organizations, takes huge responsibilities and becomes specific year has come from China, whose culture has a man in people’s appraisal. His behavior is rather affected the Korean way of life in many aspects. The 12impulsive and he is always so year system is called Earthly energetic that he tries to intervene Branches. Chinese scholars observed in other’s work without much the movement of Jupiter and patience. At the same time, he divided its orbit into twelve sectors. perceives matters suspiciously Next, they assigned twelve animals and thus either hesitates or to each sector to represent certain decides something too early. He directions, double hours, months feels difficulty in trusting others and years. The Chinese calendar and in soothing his own temper. system is based on the observation One thing he has to be aware of is of the sun and stars. As a result, to make decisions after giving every New Year starts at the first them a second thought. If he does new moon after the winter solstice, not, he might face failure in which is why it is called the Lunar business. His chivalrous spirit New Year. drives him to take care of other’s concerns through the end, even At this point, many readers might be though this results in a lot of pain. tempted to compare this system to the Zodiac horoscope that is quite The mascot for the 1988 Seoul Olympics, When he feels depressed, words do not help, but real sympathy well-known in Western societies. “Hodori” does. People around him had better not soothe him in a There are some similarities, but also some differences. stingy manner. When he recovers, he will repay you The most prominent similarity between them is that twice as well as you have provided for him. the number of animals and symbols used in each system is both twelve. Earthly Branches consists of the According to the teachings in “Four Pillars”, which is Rat, Ox, Tiger, Rabbit, Dragon, Snake, Horse, Sheep, all about an individual’s fate in relation to the year, Monkey, Rooster, Dog and Pig, while the Zodiac is month, day and hour of their birth, those born in the symbolized by the Ram, Bull, Twins, Crab, Lion, Virgin, year of the tiger will make good, close relationships Scale, Scorpion, Centaur, Sea-goat, Pitcher and Fish. with those born in the year of either the horse, dog, or pig. Many would agree that the tiger can symbolize Korea, especially if we look back at the mascot for the 1988 To the readers of the Gwangju News, I hope that all of Seoul Olympics, which was named “Hodori”, which is you succeed in what you currently do or plan to do in similar to the Korean word for tiger, “horangee”. this, the year of the tiger. Moreover, the legend of how Korea was born also includes a story of a bear and a tiger who wanted to By Ahn Hong-pyo become human. At the same time, however, a tiger in Hong-pyo is a senior student at Chonnam National University. Korean society is associated with some images of fear,
Gwangju News February 2010
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Current Issue
A Voice for Migrant Workers
S
o, I bet you’ve heard about the great job opportunities in South Korea, right? How much easier it is to get a job here than back home and the solid benefits that abound, not to mention the ease of the South Korean way of life. While English teachers and other foreign professionals might be attracted to working around Korea to put their education and skills to work, migrant workers may not be so lucky. Often lured by promises of a better life, a living wage, as well as fair and equal treatment in the workplace, migrant workers from developing Asian countries are becoming more vocal about their plight. As the economy improves, the need for migrant workers will definitely increase. However the discrepancy between the ads recruiting them and the stark realities of their working environment are now becoming more visible as the government cracks down on illegal immigration.
A 2009 Amnesty International report, Disposable Labour: Rights of migrant workers in South Korea, painted a grim picture of the current situation. As of June 2006, 360,000 migrant workers or 1.5% of the
total workforce are employed in the Republic of Korea. More than half are believed to be unregistered and face an uncertain future as the nation faces criticism internally and internationally to reform its once progressive laws for migrant workers.
Raising the Bar? Prior to the Seoul Olympics in 1988, no laws existed to protect migrant workers in South Korea. At that time the government started the Alien Industrial Trainee System (AITS) to allow migrant workers to be hired through private recruiters and ostensibly become exploited due to the exorbitant fees required up front for employment. AITS theoretically gave workers vocational training after working a specific number of years, but this was often used as an excuse to withhold pay. Critics complained AITS was aimed more at “training” workers rather than hiring and compensating them outright. The Employment Permit System or EPS in 2004 was then implemented as a government-to-government scheme aimed at eliminating illegal recruitment and
Migrant workers enjoying a cultural trip organized by the Migrant Workers' Center
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Gwangju News February 2010
Cho Yong-seok
Current Issue
Left: Celebrating Seollal with the Migrant Workers' Center Right: Sri Lankans working in Gwangju Migrant Workers' Center, Alva French
offering foreign workers equal pay, rights and benefits with South Koreans. Under EPS, workers are required to pass a language and qualification test before being invited to work in South Korea. The EPS system is in place between Korea and 16 other countries including the Philippines, Cambodia, East Timor, Sri Lanka, Pakistan and Vietnam as part of a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) between these foreign countries and the Korea Ministry of Labor. While the EPS may have attempted to raise the bar, the reality on the ground is quite different. “Migrant workers are vulnerable to abuse and exploitation largely because they cannot change jobs without their employer’s permission,” said Roseann Rife, Amnesty International’s Asia-Pacific Deputy Programme Director. “Work conditions are sometimes so bad that they run away and consequently, lose their regular status and are then subject to arrest and deportation.”
Change in Status Losing a contract mid-stream might seem like a minor obstacle to other foreign employees stuck in a labor dispute in Korea. Just ask around and find a new job, right? Go home for a few months and come back and find a new employer, maybe? For migrant workers, they not only lose their status making them now illegal workers, but they may have had their pay docked among various other infractions and may be too indebted to their employers to afford their return ticket. Adding insult to injury, the South Korean government has avowed to cut the number of illegal workers by halving the estimated 220,000 of them by 2012. As a result, the Immigration department has launched what Amnesty International has called, “a massive and
sometimes violent crackdown on migrant workers. Immigration officers and the police are accused of sometimes using excessive force against migrant workers and operating outside the law.”
Working in 3D I spoke to Mr. Cho Yong-seok, director of the Gwangju Migrant Workers’ Center in Cheomdan and asked him to tell me about the plight of migrant workers here in Gwangju. While he tells me there are about 10,000 legal migrant workers in the city, there are also about 2,000 non-registered migrants on top of that. They often are recruited to do what is known as “3D” work – Dirty, Dangerous, Difficult – or work the native Koreans refuse to do in the manufacturing sector. Today under EPS, the laws continue to evolve. Initially workers were required to return home after working three years, then work another two years. Now they can work for five years straight. “Which is both good and bad,” according to Mr. Cho. Good because their contracts guaranteed them work for an extended period of time, “but bad because if work conditions are difficult, these must be endured for five years without renegotiation or change of job.” Also, while a meager living space or “container box” is provided, migrant workers must still provide $3-4000 up front to cover training, insurance, payment and airfare. Although this is significantly lower than the initial fees required under AITS, it is still a major hurdle for some. According to Mr. Cho, the government’s attempts at changing the law to at least provide additional money for shelter have been unsuccessful. While the possibility of working at equal status as South Koreans is very attractive to foreign workers, the
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Current Issue
reality quite different, Mr. Cho explains to me. “Their labor environment may be sub-standard, they may incur many injuries, and work in dangerous places.” Furthermore, he acknowledged many are afraid of coming forward for fear of losing their pay, their status or both, not to mention the hidden injuries left unreported due the language barrier.
Gwangju Migrant Workers’ Center
Mr. Cho, director and labor rights counselor explained the objectives of the Gwangju Migrant Workers’ Center. It is basically a shelter and counseling center,” he tells me. On average there are 3-5 males who stay at the shelter at any given time. Today, there are six people housed there. Mr. Cho went on to say that there are about 250 migrant workers advised a year. The center is not only a safe haven for those in need of housing while injured or in between jobs, but also a Korean cultural and historical education center, complete with computers and televisions. A sports day and cultural trips are often planned as well as Hangeul classes. Church services are even held every Sunday at the chapel downstairs from the center. While the Korean Labor Ministry introduced the center to some, most workers find their way there through word of mouth.
Voicing Complaints While at the center, I also met Agit from Sri Lanka whose left index finger had been chopped off while working as a machine operator in a steel manufacturing plant in October 2008. Although Mr. Cho explains Agit received compensation from the Korean government for his injury, he has yet to receive anything from his former employer since the company shut down. His case is still pending. 8
Gwangju News January 2010
The most common rights violated include nonpayment of salary, uncompensated accidents and violence on the job. Mr. Cho explained the plight of a typical worker, a Sri Lankan who was unregistered when he started working in Korea from 2005-2007. He was only paid four times during that time and came to the Gwangju Migrant Workers’ Center in 2008 for assistance. As of today, his case remains unresolved. Another unresolved case involved two workers in car disposal who complained their work environment was too violent and dangerous. After one week they asked to change jobs, but were refused, so the two employees quit. However, since they “abandoned” their job for more than fourteen days, the employer had the right to sue the two workers and did so. Since they were already non-registered or illegal they were both in a precarious situation, especially since only an employer may withdraw a lawsuit. As of today, only one of the two was asked to continue working, while the other not. One case which came across Mr. Cho’s desk that fortunately was resolved involved two Chinese seniors who went years without being paid. Both men came to the center for help. With the center’s assistance the two men went to court and won their overdue compensation. Mr. Cho says although some foreign workers typically lack professional skills, some come to Korea after working as computer engineers, pharmacists and civil servants. Forced to take jobs that in their home countries would be beneath them, they come seeking better wages. Often intimidated by the language and unaware of their rights, they languish in seemingly dead-end situations before seeking solace at the Center. Even trivial matters get swept under the table because workers can’t communicate effectively with their employers. Finally, migrant worker complaints are often ignored by employers whose sole concern is productivity at all costs. “Despite the advances of the EPS system, the cycle of abuse and mistreatment continues as thousands of migrant workers find themselves at the mercy of employers and the authorities who mistreat them knowing their victims have few legal rights and are unable to access justice or seek compensation for the abuse,” said Ms. Rife of Amnesty International.
Seeking Reform You would think a labor union might be able to help,
Current Issue
right? In theory, since migrant workers enjoy the same rights as Koreans, they may bring their complaints to labor unions, but, Mr. Cho tells me, “This process takes too long, often more than five years which exceeds the length of a typical migrant worker’s contract.” Mr. Cho agrees there is a tremendous need for reform. Even with the well-intentioned EPS, workers are still locked into non-negotiable servitude for years. Most are forced to suck it up and stick it out, and have little recourse except to seek out help from small centers like his around Korea. Mr. Cho tells me the government is currently discussing the situation in response to increased frustration and complaints by migrants and others in the international community. Furthermore, Mr. Cho acknowledges the need for multicultural understanding when it comes to working with migrant workers. “We need to respect differences and focus less on capitalistic concerns,” he says. Finally he states, “We need to raise awareness about the situation and make sure everyone understands the plight of migrant workers.”
Gwangju Migrant Workers’ Center Gwangju Migrant Workers’ Center, in Chomdan area, serves to protect workers’ human rights, and help them adapt to Korean life, realize the extensive and valuble human rights, as well as strengthen the image of Gwangju as a human rights city, so that foreigers and Koreans can live in the global village community together. Human rights: late or non-payment of wages, industrial accident violence, homecoming, problems sending money, problems with medical treatment etc. Help foreign laborer solve the problems of living in Korea. Free medical treatment and Medical Benefit Association: free treatment for people who couldn’t find hospital easily, because of poor working condition, translation, money, time and so on. And foreign laborer, who need treatment but don’t have medical insurance, will be able to have the same discount with medical insurance in the hospital and drugstore.
By Alva French
Amnesty International calls on the government of South Korea: • to ensure that employers respect, protect and promote the rights of migrant workers through rigorous labour inspections so that the workplace is safe, training is provided and migrant workers are paid fairly and on time; • to protect and promote the rights of all female migrant workers and stamp out sexual harassment and sexual exploitation; • to allow irregular migrant workers to remain in South Korea while accessing justice and seeking compensation for abuses by employees; • to ensure that during immigration raids, immigration authorities adhere to South Korean law requiring them to identify themselves, present a warrant, caution and inform migrant workers of their rights, and provide those under their custody prompt medical treatment when needed or requested. From: http://www.amnesty.org/en/news-andupdates/report/migrant-workers-treated039disposable-labour039-south-korea-20091021
Korean Language and Computer Education: In order to solve the problem of language and increase the understanding of Korean culture, the center offers Korean language classes and computer education. Resting place: We provide a resting place for people who suffered pain or hurt in working. Besides providing room and board free, we help them recover soon. Visit Korean Family: Foreign laborer will be invited in Korean family, to learn more about the culture and custom of Korean family and have a great time together. Korean family can go to center directly for application. Visit Korean Culture: In order to increase the understanding of Korea, you may visit Korean historic sites. Telephone: 062-971-0078 Address: 816-11, Wolgye-dong, Gwangsan-gu Bus: 9, 16, 30, 39, 51, 91, 700 (get off Chomdan 2(i)dong Juminjachicenter bus stop) Conversation hours: Monday-Thursday (9am.-6pm.) Resting place: everyday Korean Language and Computer education: Sunday Free treatment: Sunday 2pm.-6pm. (Emergency treatment: at ordinary times) Gwangju Migrant Workers’ Center
Gwangju News January 2010
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Discover Korea
Hwaseong W
hen you alight the train at Suwon you find yourself in one of those all-singing all-dancing stations with a department store attached, despite having had to take a trundlebox to get there, Suwon not being on the KTX line. So it was, then, that I left Suwon’s shiniest building down an outdoor escalator, surely a novelty in itself, and found myself shin-deep in the heaviest snowfall in living memory. Not the best start on a practical level, perhaps, but at least it was pretty. The trouble I always find with these glittering stations is that you tumble out of them into the most rundown places known to man and Suwon is no exception, though there is one pedestrian street of veritable entertainment value directly opposite and it was along this that I now waded through the snow, which here found itself making a slushy street sorbet decorated with the accumulated detritus from the previous night’s revelry. Now obviously I’m not here to write about Suwon’s swanky station or its obligatory dodgy area, but to regale you with my stroll around its claim to fame: Suwon is Korea’s only walled city. Known as Hwaseong (not to be confused with the neighbouring city by the same name), the fortified walls were built just over two hundred years ago by King Jeongjo in a failed bid to relocate Korea’s capital to Suwon. The fortress was largely left to fall into disrepair and was destroyed a lot during last century’s wars, but was restored accurately and almost completely in the 1970s and is now on UNESCO’s list of world heritage sites, so surely it’s worth a look.
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Discover Korea
And so I trudged along the street a couple of kilometres (There are plenty of buses, of course, but I thought I’d have a look at the town.) until Paldalmun, the south gate of the fortress, loomed up in the middle of the main road in the distance. Hwaseong has four main gates and the north and south ones are big two-storey affairs, so Paldalmun dominates this bustling district of town and is a big, obvious landmark and great starting point for a trip around the walls as it’s easy to get there however you choose to do so. The only trouble is that it’s stranded in the middle of a busy thoroughfare and is, as a result, entirely inaccessible! If you’re ready for lunch then this is a great place to grab a bite as there are plenty of cheap holes-in-thewall for Korean or western fare, and it’ll be about an hour before you find anything else. And so then to the fortress. To find the wall it’s easiest if you head west first (that’s left as you face the gate from the direction of the station and bus terminal). Along here at the bottom of the hill there’s an information booth where you can pick up a map in any of a variety of languages. You really can’t get lost, though, as it’s a big wall and it goes more or less in a circle. There’s also a public toilet here for any lastminute needs. So, map in hand and a little lighter than before, I now progressed with confidence to begin my climb. Well I say climb, but Paldalsan, the hill over which Hwaseong passes, really isn’t at all high, being a rise of only a hundred metres from the gate below. It is, however, extremely steep, the scene of much panting, and also, as I now discovered, treacherous in snow. Being so steep, though, you’re up it in no time at all, so that’s a blessed relief. At the top of the hill I stopped to make sure I was still alive and indeed to admire Seonam Ammun, the southwest secret gate. Yes, it turns out that Hwaseong not
only has its four main gates, but also has a series of bonus “secret gates” thrown in at no extra cost. These were apparently to deceive invaders, so they could get soldiers in and out, umm, secretly. However this particular entrance is tall, grand, colourful, and doesn’t actually lead out of the fortress at all but instead takes you onto a spur, so it would surely be better named something like the South-west Rather Obvious Junction, though this perhaps has less of a ring to it. The walk along the spur comes as a pleasant stroll after the slog up the hill and it’s especially nice in crunchy, cooling snow, so take some if you’re there at the wrong time of year. Of course, being a spur, you have to come back the same way, but it’s only short and is well worth it, as there’s a good but foliage-dependent view from the end, where there’s also a nice pavilion, ideal for picnics. I was, however, picnicless, so back along the spur it was, back through the unsecretive gate, and along the wall to the north, following the top of the hill. Along here there’s another loo (Take note in case of postpicnic troubles.) and then an enormous bell. Here, there’s a booth where you have to pay 1000 won to pass. (It costs to walk around the walls, but you pay for the day and there are other checkpoints, too, so keep your ticket.) There’s a further 1,000 won fee to ring the bell. Well how could I resist? Lots of excessive monkstyle swinging later, then bang! Blimey what a noise that thing can make. If you were in the vicinity then please accept my apologies and I will pay for any damage to your windows. Just after the booth I came across my first proper secret gate. It actually really is very secretive indeed. No fancy colours – just a little opening at an angle in the wall. I can confirm that it also functions spectacularly, as the person outside it hadn’t expected me to emerge at all, judging from their reaction. That,
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Discover Korea
and ended up being a very nice feature. From this pond, which was definitely worth the tiny detour, I went back to invade the fortress through its no-longersecret gate, and headed east to a big building called Dongjangdae, which was apparently a military headquarters but which now appears to be a shed in a car park. I’m not sure whose idea it was to carpet the surrounding area in concrete, but, well, thank God for the snow covering it up. Oh, there’s another ticket check here, by the way, and yet another toilet, but by now you’d need to have some sort of medical condition to still need to be taking notes about the latter. Above: South gate, Paldalmun, at night, Inset: Seojangdae Previous page: The wall heading uphill from Paldalmun, Page 10: West gate, Hwaseomun and Seobuk Gongsimdon
then, was pretty much it for Paldalsan, but it had a final shout at the end with two fine structures standing in a clearing at the northern end of the ridge overlooking most of central Suwon. Take note of the palace below to the east, too, as this, half a kilometre from both the north and south gates, is a nice possible extension to a trip around the walls, as this was where King Jeongjo lived when he was in Suwon. From here, then, I skidded down the snowy hillside, wishing I had crampons, or more precisely wishing I’d come the previous week, to Hwaseomun, the west gate. This, along with its eastern counterpart, is much less grandiose than the north and south gates, being only one storey high, but is still very nice and has a tower right next to it, too, though sadly the like of you and I aren’t allowed in that. There’s another public toilet just outside the gate, by the way in case you’re taking notes. It’s a short distance to Janganmun, the north gate, from here, and it rises above everything else beckoning you onwards, for this is the largest gate in the country, even bigger than Namdaemun used to be. It really is quite a sight, actually, and there’s a good place for mandu just over the road, too. You’ll be asked to show your ticket here, by the way. I mean at the gate, not the mandu restaurant. Refuelled again, I headed on to one of the prettiest sections of the wall. Here, it crosses a stream at another bonus gate called Hwahongmun. This stands beside a little hill with a pavilion atop, and another secret gate, through which I now inadvertently slithered downhill at an alarming pace to a very nice pond known as Yongyeon. This place was intended to be a military camp, but was so nice that they decided to use it for picnics instead, which I think rather symbolises the whole fortress. It was never attacked
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Gwangju News February 2010
The wall now went around a field where people practise traditional archery, which was interesting to watch but not for long in the snow because standing still just wasn’t a good idea at all. There are a couple of nice structures, then the east gate (another toilet outside), which is very pretty and which has the benefit of not standing right beside a main road, so I’d say this was my favourite. From the east gate the snow deepened significantly and I ended up knee-deep in the stuff at one point, as the wind had caused little drifts. Less than entirely amused, I grumbled my way to Bongdon, which was a smoke signal station. My grumbling was entirely unfair, as this is actually a very interesting place, but by now I was far too cold to appreciate it properly, as I’d lost all hope of ever having any sensation in my extremities again. Not even taking note of the toilet for your benefit cheered me up. From here, the wall continued around and back down to the stream, and it was a short walk through a traditional market and along a very tackily decorated “Fine Art Street” (note: final toilet) back to Paldalmun, my starting point. I was nithered to a ridiculous degree, but very glad to have seen this really very pretty fortress, to which I shall definitely return on a much warmer day. Story and photos by Justin Barrass
TRAVEL INFORMATION Direct train to Suwon: 3- 4 hours Express bus to Suwon: 3 hours City buses between Suwon Station and Paldalmun (팔달문): Blue: 400 Green: 2–2, 10–5, 46, 50–6, 66, 82–1 City buses between Bus Terminal and Paldalmun (팔달문): Green: 46, 64, 64–1 Hwaseong Admission: 1,000 won (free at night) Hours: Open 24 hours a day, though the palace closes at 6 p.m.
Culture
Seollal Past and Present After eating ddeokguk and giving sebaetdon, family members pay a visit to their ancestors’ graves and practice ancestor memorial rites services. They thank their ancestors for what they’ve got and their wellbeing. Coming back from the visit, people spend the rest of the day playing traditional Korean games – kite running, Yutnori, Tuho, and so on. Also, family members gather around and spend some precious time together catching up on the stories they couldn’t share because of their hectic life. This is one of the traditional family scenes you’ll expect in Korea on Seollal.
Traditional games played on Seollal
Children bowing to elders in order to receive sebaetdon at New Year
Traditional Seollal Scene
B
y the lunar calendar, January 1st is one of the most important holidays in Korea. During this holiday, people forget about their daily work, go back to their hometown and enjoy quality time with their whole family. In the morning of Seollal, family members dressed in hanbok gather at the table and eat ddeokguk, the traditional Korean food for Seollal.
Seollal is also one of the favorite holidays among children. On Seollal, adults give “sebaetdon” – money given to children if they bow to their elder relatives (parents, grandparents, uncles and so on) and say wellwishes for them.
• Yut-nori: It’s a traditional Korean board game. It’s usually played by more than two teams. Each team takes their turn and throws four sticks of small wood called ‘Yut’ into the air. You can move your team’s pieces according to what type of combination you get with these ‘Yut’. Finally, the team that gets to the goal first is the winner. Yut-nori is one of the most famous and favorite traditional games in Korea and it is really fun to do with your whole family. •Kite Running: Family members get their own kites and fly them into the sky. They sometimes make their wish and cut the thread away. They believe that the flying kite will make their wish come true.
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Culture
•Tuho: It is played with long, thin sticks and a special basket. If you succeed to throw as many sticks as possible into the special basket, you win. It is not as easy as it seems. It is also one of the most well-known traditional games in Korea.
What Koreans eat on Seollal • Ddeokguk: Eating a bowl of ddeokguk on Seollal means that you become one year older. Of course, it doesn’t then follow that you become two years older if you eat two bowls of ddeokguk, although people often make jokes about it. Ddeokguk is Korean rice cake soup peppered with salt and other special ingredients. It is one of the main dishes that Koreans have on Seollal and it is also very delicious. (see recipe on page 15) • Sikhye: Sikhye is a traditional Korean beverage, with a sweet flavor. It attracts a lot of Koreans and even those who are not very familiar with Korean food. •Japchae: Whenever there are special events in Korea, Koreans often have Japchae. It is Korean type of noodle mixed with onions, carrots, cucumbers and so on. It is very healthy as well as delectable.
Modern Seollal These days, people spend Seollal quite differently from the past. According to a survey, more than half of the business men and women who participated, answered
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Gwangju News February 2010
A typical advertisement offering tour packages over the Seollal holidays
that they are not going to go to their hometown during the Seollal holiday. When asked about their holiday plans (multiple answers allowed), 53.8% said that they are going to take part in family reunion and spend time with their family while 50.7% responded that they will stay home, doing nothing special, just relaxing and being a couch potato. Also, 26% said that they will meet their friends and 19.6% replied that they will go to see a movie or performance. In fact, some movies are released around Seollal holiday, attracting many people staying at home and of course, many theaters are not closed and often crowded with people during the holiday. In addition, instead of paying a visit to their hometown, 11.5% of the people rather chose to spend their long holidays traveling around the world with their family – usually consisting of parents, their daughters and sons, rather than the wider family of uncles and aunts as in the past. Actually, there are many tour packages aiming at those people who are planning to go abroad during the long holiday season. The typical scene of Seollal obviously seems to be changing. Most of the things related to Seollal have also been simplified. For example, in Christian families’ case, they replace the ancestor memorial rites with a religious service. As times change, the way people celebrate the national holidays also transforms. By Park Min-ji and Ko Namil
Recipe
Korean Easy-Cook Recipe
떡 국 (Ddeokguk, Sliced Rice-cake Soup)
S
eollal, or Korean New Year’s Day, is one of the major national holidays in Korea. Unfortunately, this year’s Seollal is from Saturday to Monday taking up the whole weekend, so that many people would probably have a hard time visiting their folks who live far away in their hometown. But the one thing all Koreans are never going to miss is to feast on Ddeokguk on the morning of Korean New Year’s Day. After eating Ddeokguk, Koreans regard their welcoming of the New Year as completed, and finally count their age as one year higher. It is not that difficult to see some children eating more than one bowl of Ddeokguk, so they can feel like they’ve aged more than a year. So, this Korean traditional soup is one of the most meaningful foods to Koreans, especially at this time of year. Eating Ddeokguk would be a very nice way to feel Korean culture, and it is not too difficult to make, even for a novice in cooking. Here is the recipe for Ddeokguk. It only takes about 10 minutes to make Ddeokguk at home. All the ingredients can be easily found in supermarkets. It is not too spicy nor does it have a strong scent, so people regardless of their age or culture can enjoy it together. A well known fact among Koreans is that eating Ddeokguk on New Year’s day means purifying one’s soul by letting the old year out and the new year in, because ddeok (rice cake), especially the one used in Ddeokguk called Garae-ddeok, is a very pure and neat food. Because of this, Koreans gather with their family and relatives in their hometown on Korean New Year’s Day to wish good luck for the new year by sharing Ddeokguk together. In a way, Ddeokguk is the food that represents the deepest affection for their family that lies in the bottom of Koreans’ hearts. Story and photos by Park Suji Suji is a junior student at Chonnam National University.
How to make Ddeokguk (serves 2~3 people) Things to Prepare: a boiling pan, 600ml of water, 400g sliced Garae-ddeok, 50g minced beef (or chicken), one egg, a little chopped scallion and dried laver, two table spoons of sesame oil, and soy sauce. Method: 1. Put 50g minced beef, two table spoons of sesame oil and soy sauce altogether into a boiling pan and stir-fry the beef. 2. Put 600ml of water into the pan and bring to a boil. 3. When the water boils, put 400g of sliced Garae-ddeok and boil for about 5 minutes more. 4. Add a little chopped scallion and an egg, and boil for less than 1 minute. 5. The soup is completed. Put it into a decent bowl, add dried laver on top, and enjoy!
Gwangju News February 2010
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Feature
The Hairdresser's House – Life in a "Slabjib"
N
ine halmoni (할머니, the polite form of address for elderly women in Korean) sit cross-legged on the linoleum, a shallow dish of kimchi and some rice between them. As the food dwindles, their chatter undying, one rises, slides open the screen door, and unhooks her barbers' shears from a peg on the courtyard wall. Amid eager gestures from the other women, a second halmoni seats herself before the mirror and lets the hairdresser pin a robe under her chin. Geum-soon (not her real name) has lived and worked in the neighbourhood behind Yangdong Market for thirty years, running an unlicensed hair salon out of her home. Her customers are her long-time neighbours. In these colonies of low-rise houses dating from the 1960s, a largely aging population supports itself on simple skills. Fortune tellers' poles pierce the air, flapping canvasses delineate makeshift restaurants, and parked outside a few gates are metal wheelbarrows, used to collect scrap materials and garbage from around the city. These neighbourhoods are a vestige of industrializing
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Gwangju News February 2010
Korea. During Park Chung-hee’s 1961-1979 dictatorial rule, rapid economic expansion brought a influx of rural workers into cities like Gwangju. At the same time, traditional chogajibs (초가집, thatched-roof house) were ubiquitously standardized with widely available industrial materials under Park’s Saemaul (New Village) Movement.[1] Using the new slabjib (슬 라브집, slab-roof house) prototype, housing for migrant workers could be built quickly, economically and en masse. Concrete block replaced vernacular wall assemblies of straw-bale and rice paper, and concrete or corrugated metal also replaced the thatched roofs that had to be rebuilt every summer in a chogajib. The efficiency of slab construction superceded other classic building methods, including the giwajib (기와집, adobe house) and the neowajib (너와집, wood house). In these settlements, where the urban lower and middle class live today, Saemaul’s motto “Diligence, Self-Reliance, and Cooperation” is still evident. Tenants grow enough food for their own use on rooftop gardens and in communal vegetable plots, and generously share their harvests with friends. Geum-
Feature
Left: Slabjib neighbourhoods are a jumble of coloured rooves and narrow alleyways. Right: Geum-Soon hard at work at her home salon
soon, who serves a complimentary meal with her 8,000 won haircuts, tells translator Nam-il and I that she has minimal expenses: "I don't have to pay [a separate] rent for the shop, or taxes. The food I grow outside, some of it my neighbours give to me." Several halmoni sit out with us on the courtyard porch, and we laugh, talk, and pass snacks back and forth while we watch Geum-soon perm her friend's hair through the open window. A slabjib follows certain essential principles of Korean house design: the main building and several outbuildings are positioned around a central courtyard, which is an open-air living room. In the city, this is often a narrow, unbuilt gap. Geum-soon's neighbours socialize in her covered courtyard, but it also doubles as a utilitarian space, crowded by wash basins, cookie tins and soda bottles, extra furniture and old appliances. A modern washroom, a charcoal briquette furnace, and two storerooms open off of it. Geum-soon's home is modernized and wellmaintained. She has lacquered furniture, a flat-screen TV, and her 29-year-old daughter, who lives with her, has a computer with high-speed Internet. The interiors are dim, with only small windows facing the courtyard, to keep cool in the summer and to minimize heat loss in the winter. She has upgraded her windows to durable double-glazed units. In a vast contrast, less prosperous homes in the same neighbourhood rely on styrofoam, plastic bags, and other found materials to seal cracks against wind and rain. Some staple green garden netting over the translucent rice-paper window
screens, traditionally designed to mediate light and humidity, for reinforcement. The Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) estimates that almost one in every two elderly households in South Korea live in poverty, making South Korea's elderly poverty rate the highest amongst OECD nations. [2] This is largely attributed to a paradigm shift from traditional family structures. Where aging parents once depended upon their grown children to support them, this is far less common today. National pension, instigated in the mid-1990s, does not service a previously retired or selfemployed population. Slabjibs are a low-rent accommodation choice in the city centre, in the vicinity of transportation networks and employment opportunities. Occasionally, a young family moves in to save money, but the predominantly elderly population has lived here for decades. In the neighbourhood behind Yangdong, tenants pay a mere 150,000 won a month for rent. Despite a prevailing cultural desire for the old to live with their sons, some choose to remain in these communities where they are independent, selfsustainable, and have familiar old friends. Geum-soon is content with her home, her neighbours, and the profits from her business. Her many children and grandchildren visit often. Generally viewed as bland, outdated structures, as well as a painful reminder of a period of political
Gwangju News February 2010
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oppression, these tenements have nevertheless acquired their own character through decades of inhabitation. Renewals and repairs have transformed the standard building envelope, and even as they are abandoned – presumably for the conveniences of modern apartment living – the structures take on the beautiful texture of decay. On our morning amble through the neighbourhood, we noted that at least 10% of the dwellings were unoccupied. Without maintenance, they deteriorate rapidly: built to embrace the environment, wild grasses and vines easily take root in cement crevices, rapidly turning a house into a site of ecological succession. From the courtyard, a concrete staircase reaches the roof. I asked Geum-soon if I could climb up. Navigating kimchi pots and other clutter on the steps, I attained a platform with a vista of neighbouring roofs undulating up the mountain. One advantage of the slab roof is that each tenant has access to his or her own roof terrace; useful for drying laundry and for outdoor food preparation in the city. On Geum-soon's roof, hot peppers are spread out on a mat between utility pipes and vents, and laundry and fish dry on the same line. It is the visibility, though, of this elevated world that I find riveting: neighbours can see one another as they go about their daily chores on the roof, holding conversations over the barriers of their cement walls. The roof makes a lively second tier of community space. The view of the Saemaul colony, bright peaked roofs,
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Gwangju News February 2010
crowded terraces, all the texture of life and decay sparkled in the afternoon light. Between the houses, there are maze-like corridors that switch back and forth, informally reinforcing the mountainous Korean landscape. Though a product of industrialization, in their use, disuse, and gradual disintegration, these settlements have a strange kinship with nature.
Interview by Ko Nam-il Story and photos by Miriam Ho
The conditions and the future of slabjib living is the subject of an exhibition entitled "Disappearing Gwangju," featuring documentation from architect Miriam Ho and photographer Cho Dae-yeon (Gwangju University), on exhibit at the GIC GAIA Gallery from February 6th – March 5th. Attend the opening and artists' talk at 2:30 p.m., February 6th.
Footnotes [1] See Gwangju News January 2010 [2] "The relative poverty ratio among the elderly people over the age of 65 in Korea was 45 percent in 2006, indicating almost one in every two elderly households live in poverty." The Korea Times, November 8, 2008. Relative poverty means that one's income is less than half the average household income of the nation, which was 3.5 million won per month in 2008. (Korea National Statistics Office, www.korea.net/News/News/NewsView.asp?serial_no=20091 120008)
Useful Korean Phrases
이걸 V (해 해)봐 봐 야 겠 어 요. ’ I’ ll try to V. Vocabulary Dialog A: 핸드폰을 사려고 해요. 어디서 사는 게 좋을까요? [Haendeuponeul saryeogo haeyo. Eodiseo saneunge joeulkkayo?] A: I’d like to buy a new mobile phone. Could you recommend any stores? B: 시내에 핸드폰 가게들이 많이 있어요. [Sinaee haendeupon gagedeuri mani iseoyo.] B:There are many mobile phone stores in downtown. A: 요즘 어떤 핸드폰을 많이 쓰나요? [Yojeum eotteon haendeuponeul mani sseunayo?] A: What kind of mobile phone do people prefer these days? B: 요즈음은 터치폰을 많이 쓰더군요. [yojeueumeun teochiponeul mani sseudeogunnyo.] B: People usually buy touch-screen phones. A: 그렇군요. B씨도 터치폰을 쓰고 계시나요? [Geureokunnyo. Bssido teochiponeul sseugo gyesinayo?] A: Really? Do you also use a touch-screen phone? B: 네. 저도 터치폰을 써요. A씨도 터치폰을 써보는 게 어때요? 매우 편리해요. [Ne. jeodo teochiponeul sseoyo. Assido teochiponeul sseoboneun ge eottaeyo? maeu pyeollihaeyo.] B: Yes. I also use a touch-screen phone. How about trying one? It’s very convenient. A: 그래요? 이번엔 터치폰을 써봐야 겠네요. [Geuraeyo? ibeonen teochiponeul sseobwa yagenneyo.] A: Ok. I’ll try.
핸드폰: Mobile phone 가게: Store 요즘: These days
시내: Downtown 터치폰: Touch-screen phone 편리하다: convenient
Grammar 해)봐 봐야겠어요. (I’ ’ 1. 이걸 V (해 ll try to V.) This expression is used when people want to do something or try something. In this sentence, V can be verb like eat, read, use etc. ex) 이 책을 읽어봐야겠어요. (I will try to read this book.) ex) 이 핸드폰을 써봐야겠어요. (I will try to use this mobile phone.)
Vocabulary Exercise In this letter grid, try to find as many Korean words as possible, joining letters horizontally, vertically or diagonally.
사
힘
심
줄
현
풍
배
정
장
과
울
시
운
동
이
치
수
덧
설
둘
데
한
장
울
익
목
날
작
일
갑
을
만
이
입
차
순
빌
시
석
프
떡
덕
훅
가
게
죽
내
비
국
인
신
트
아
절
마
타
휴
신
파
영
시
난
로
제
The answers are on page 42
By Noh In-woo A freshman at Chonnam National University.
Gwangju News February 2010
19
Local Scene
L
ooking for something different to do with friends? Something cheap and fun? Or simply got some time to kill? Then the new Wii game room in downtown may be your answer! If it isn't, then I guess that boring, old, coffee shop you usually go to will have to do. What am I talking about? Good question avid reader. Last month a new Wii game room opened in the center of downtown, on the third floor above Burger King. It's a kind of coffee shop but with Wii rooms. The Nintendo Wii is the world’s leading video game console at the moment and most of its popularity is based on its wireless controllers that detect movement in 3D. Basically it's like playing a video game in 3D; you play standing up and when you move your controller in your hand your character on screen moves his hand in the same direction with the same force. Cool stuff. To picture the Wii rooms, think singing room, but more modern, clean, and bright, and with a console in each room. I had a chance to speak to the owner Yang Su-min about what she thought of her new game rooms. "We want to be quite different from a PC room. PC rooms are usually dirty, dark places that smell of smoke. I'm aiming to give customers the chance to play the Wii in a nice, bright environment together with a selection of drinks, just like a coffee shop," she explained. I'd personally never played the Wii before and thought the idea of playing video games in 3D sounded like fun. I therefore needed someone to play against. I decided my victim, I mean opponent, would be my lovely wife. She doesn't play video games at all, so I thought I was safe in the knowledge I'd always win no matter how bad I was. I could even tell her we were going to a coffee shop of sorts. The Wii game room offers an hour’s session on one of the consoles for the price of your drink. So playing on the Wii is in fact free. Actually that's not quite true: every player has to buy a drink to get the free hour. If you want to play longer then an extra 30 minutes is 3,000 won and an extra hour is 5,000 won. There are nine rooms that can
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Gwangju News February 2010
Wii Play cafe owner Yang Su-min
hold up to four players each and two larger rooms that can hold about seven players, although only up to four players can play at any one time. The drinks menu offers coffees, teas and soft drinks and prices range from 3,500 won to 4,500 won. Refills are just 1,500 won more. So one snowy Wednesday evening I decided to have a Wii session with my video game less-abled wife. After arriving at the Wii room the first choice we needed to make was what game to play. There was quite a large selection and I was told they have all Wii games that Nintendo has currently converted into Korean. This started to make me sweat a little: I'm English and so my Korean wife would therefore have the language advantage of understanding how to actually play the game. However we were quickly back to even-steven when Yang Su-min told us Mario Kart, Wii Sports, and Mario and Sonic at the Beijing/Vancouver Olympics all had an easy-tounderstand visual guide of how to play on the screen before the game actually begins. She added that if we needed any help playing any of the games then the staff could easily show us. We decided to try Wii Sports because we could then play a number of sports, including tennis which I secretly
Interview
Getting into the swing of things with Wii Sports baseball
thought I'd be good at due to my height advantage. For drinks, my wife ordered an Americano or something like that, whilst I strategically chose cherryade because, as you've probably already figured out, it’s much better for quenching thirst than a silly Americano. Advantage me when we're in the heat of battle later. So we played Wii tennis. It was easy to get the hang of, and everything was fine. I was happily winning, but then my wife suggested we change to play baseball. Now I like baseball – I've been to watch KIA Tigers a few times and I even know most of the rules. But it isn't cricket, and nobody plays it in England. My wife hammered me in baseball terms. She must have played it before or something because every ball she hit she got a homerun (hit for six) and every ball pitched (bowled) to me was a strike out (out). It was a disaster! I sought refuge in my useless cherryade, until we quickly changed to play some Mario Kart so I could get some respite from the humiliation. The hour we planned to spend there was quickly over and we used an additional 30 minutes, paying the extra 3,000 won when we’d finished. I found that if you're losing then an hour isn't enough. On the other hand if you're winning then an hour is just the right amount of time. Owner Yang Su-min told me she'd opened the rooms because she found herself downtown with time on her hands but with not much to do. "Many people come downtown and there are places to eat, drink or see a movie. But that's it. The Wii game room gives you something else to do, another choice when you're waiting for a movie to begin or just out to spend some time with friends." When she opened she thought it would attract
mostly guys or couples on dates, but it's actually been a huge success with groups of girls and women too. "One game that has been very popular with female customers is Biohazard, a kind of zombie game. Men on the other hand have been choosing more of the sporty games to play." After we left we both agreed it was pretty easy to work out how to play the games quickly, more fun than sitting in a regular run-of-the-mill coffee shop and also a good way to relieve stress (or possibly get more stress if you're not very good at it). So if you're looking for something different to do downtown then why not give the Wii game room a go. It’s simply a Wii bit of heaven. Story and photos by Chris Lashwood
Opening Times Open 365 days a year Mon - Thur 11 a.m.- 9:30 p.m. Fri - Sun 11 a.m.-11 p.m. (Fri - Sun is usually busy and if you want more than 1 hour of game time then you should pay before playing)
Some of the Wii games currently available Wii Sports Mario Kart Wii Music Mario Party Mario and Sonic at the Beijing Olympics Mario and Sonic at the Vancouver Olympics FaceBreaker KO Party Deca Sports SSX Blur De Blob Biohazard 1 & 2 Legend of Zelda
Gwangju News February 2010
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Feature
Surviving "Comfort Women" Rally at 900th Protest
B
undled up against the frigid winds and a temperature of 3°F, survivors of Japanese military sexual slavery, also known as the “comfort women,” gathered on Jan. 13 for their 900th Wednesday protest held outside of the Japanese Embassy in Seoul. The women (or halmoni, the word for grandmother in Korean, as the women are euphemistically called) have been protesting every Wednesday since Jan. 8, 1992. At the 900th protest, Kang Il-chul, Yi Ok-seon, Pak Okseon, and Gil Won-ok were the four surviving halmoni to attend. Also in attendance were representatives from Amnesty International, the Korean Women's Association United, the House of Sharing, and people from Korea, Japan, and other nations who came to lend support to the halmoni. Hiromi Ui, a Japanese woman in attendance, protests weekly with the halmoni and volunteers at the House of Sharing, a home for 9 of the surviving comfort women. “Whether or not it's the 900th protest it doesn't matter to me,” Ui stated. “It’s important as a Japanese woman to be here week after week. I come
here every week. Today is no different.” In a speech, Jude Lee from the House of Sharing called for the punishment of surviving war criminals, compensation for the halmoni, and education to prevent the recurrence of gender-based crimes in Asia and other regions of the world. She expressed her particular concern with the human trafficking of Filipina women, who she says are being sexually subjugated in U.S. military zones in Korea. Japanese military sexual slavery had its roots as early as 1932 during the conflict between Japan and China in Shanghai. The estimated 50,000 to 200,000 comfort women who served as sex slaves came from territories occupied by Japan prior to and during World War II, but most came from Korea, which Japan officially annexed in 1910. Japanese soldiers seized many of the women forcibly through violence or coercion. At the numerous comfort stations scattered throughout Asia, soldiers and officers raped the women from 10 to 30 times per day. Physical abuse was rampant, with soldiers often beating the women to the point of unconsciousness, branding them with hot irons, or cutting them with swords.
Surviving "comfort women" and their supporters attend the 900th Wednesday protest in front of the Japanese Embassy in Seoul
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Gwangju News February 2010
Feature
On top of the physical abuse, the majority of the women acquired infections and sexually transmitted diseases. Those who became pregnant were administered arsenic-based drugs to abort the fetuses, a process that rendered many of the women infertile. In 1991, Kim Hak-sun became the first of the comfort women to share her story with the world. Shortly thereafter, 35 war victims from Korea, including Kim and two other comfort women, filed a class action lawsuit demanding reparations from the Japanese government. Japan denied responsibility for the occurrence of military sexual slavery. Following Kim Hak-sun’s courageous decision to “come out,” many more former comfort women stepped up to share their stories publically. One of the women, Yi Ok-seon, was snatched off the street as a young girl and taken to China to work as a laborer before being forced to serve in a comfort station. She spent 58 years of her life in China and returned to Korea in 2000. Soon after she offered her testimonial and has participated in the Wednesday protests ever since. At the 900th demonstration, Yi Ok-seon expressed her frustrations with the Japanese government. “We think that the Japanese government should just apologize as soon as possible because we were so young when we were drafted. We didn't know anything, but who took our dignity? Who took our honor? Who stole a 15-yearold girl's chastity?” “Even today the Japanese government keeps denying its involvement,” Yi Okseon added. “It’s just common sense. When someone commits a crime, they should apologize for it if they are human beings. But the Japanese government keeps denying their involvement in setting up this system. I think it's really unfair, and I feel very wronged.” Yi Okseon is optimistic that an apology will come this year, in light of recently passed ordinances in 15 cities and localities calling for the Japanese government to support the women. Another halmoni, Kang Il-chul, was abducted at the age of 16 and was forced to serve in a comfort station in Manchuria. After contracting typhoid, the Japanese military sent her to be cremated with the bodies of fallen war victims. She was subsequently saved by Korean independent fighters. An energetic woman in her early eighties, Kang Il-chul was adamant in her demand for an apology and reparations from the Japanese government. “I delivered my testimony at the Women’s International Tribunal on Japanese Military Sexual Slavery in 2000 and two former Japanese soldiers gave testimony that there were comfort
stations,” Kang Il-chul stated. “Those soldiers said that they took part in this too and that they went to the comfort stations. Yet the Japanese government still denies it and calls us liars. We don’t lie!” When asked about what Korea’s current conservative government is doing to address the issue, Kang Il-chul responded with a frustrated moan. “What the hell are they doing? The parties are doing nothing but fighting among themselves in the national assembly. They are wasting time when they should be setting history straight.” “The president (Lee Myung-bak) is voted for by the people,” Kang Il-Chul added. “He should be working for us. If he can't settle this issue, he should step down.” Today there are only 89 registered survivors of Japanese Military sexual slavery in South Korea. In 2009, five halmoni passed away without receiving a direct, formal apology or reparations. The international community has called on Japan several times to resolve the comfort women issue. A United Nations report in 1996 highlighted Japan’s numerous violations of customary international law in establishing the comfort stations. In 2007 House Resolution 121 from the United States called for a formal, clear, and unequivocal apology. In 2008 the United Nations Human Rights Committee called upon the Japanese to accept legal responsibility and apologize for its system of military sexual slavery in an acceptable way that restores the dignity of the women. Angela Lytle, a volunteer at the House of Sharing and a feminist research associate at the Centre for Women’s Studies in Education at the University of Toronto, offered her words of encouragement and admiration to the halmoni during the demonstration. “Halmoni, your strength, zest and humor inspires women around the world to know their own strength. You are not alone – women throughout time and place have endured what you endured. It is time for the world to change, and you are helping make that happen.” The aspiration of Lytle and so many of the halmonis’ supporters is that Japan’s stance will shift before the remaining halmoni pass away with their wishes for justice unrealized and their hopes for humanity shattered. Until then, they will continue to demonstrate every Wednesday. By Michael Solis
This article originally appeared in The Huffington Post.
Gwangju News February 2010
23
PHOTO CONTEST
Shelves piled high with old books and scrolls, in Gwangju
Photo by Meghan Reynolds
Street food tempts passers-by on a chilly winter day
By Debra M. Josephson
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Gwangju News February 2010
A lone flower braves the winter snow
Photo by Jessica Solomatenko
Haenyeo ('Sea-women') preparing to dive at Sunset Peak, Jeju island
By Nicole Appel
To enter Photo Contest, simply send your name, photo and picture description to gwangjunews@gmail.com.
Out and About
Seomjingang Train Village
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Gwangju News February 2010
Out and About
R
ecently I had the opportunity to explore the very lively Train Village out in Gokseong. If you are looking for something do on a Saturday to get out of the big city, this is something that should be added to your “to do” list. It’s easy to get a bus from Gwangju to Gokseong terminal, and from there it’s a simple 20-minute walk, or a very quick taxi ride. As I entered the train village, I found an immense sense of awe amongst the people going there. Everyone was quite excited to be out for the day even though the weather wasn’t the best. Kids were eagerly bugging mothers and fathers for tickets, but I couldn’t quite understand the attraction just yet. From my point of view I really didn’t know what to expect. When I heard about a “train village” I thought of a museum of sorts dedicated to the local trains or the trains of Korea. This is true to a certain extent, but with two large additions. Firstly there’s an actual steam-powered locomotive still in operation which visitors can ride. Second is something called a ‘rail bike’. When I discovered these two attractions I understood everyone’s excitement. I took my time looking around and taking in the history of the train line here. Apparently the station here in Gokseong was in operation since 1933, but the old stop was converted into this new train village. The new station is far bigger and more modern. The train village has been in running since 2005. I noticed that as well as families, there were plenty of young couples enjoying the Train Village. Watching all the couples holding hands and taking each other’s pictures in front of the train I got the sense that this is an excellent date destination for young Koreans. I approached the ticket booth, and with my simple Korean finally got a ticket for the train ride. The
departure time is helpfully printed on the ticket. I had some time to kill and I was hungry – good thing for cafe cars! Within the village there are two little train carriages that have been converted into little restaurants, offering simple but good Korean menus. I ordered my pork cutlet, green tea and enjoyed eating it in a diner train car. It was a great experience. I then gathered my things and moved along to wait for the train. I got on and was ushered to my seat and sat down. The train’s mighty whistle blew a large announcement to the world saying it was leaving in a couple of minutes. People on the train were also getting more excited. About halfway through the journey on the train a lady came on the speakers and began explaining the sights. The train moved slowly along the railroad so the people could enjoy the scenery. Out of the window there is the Seomjin river and the mountains on the other side of river. While on the train I took the liberty of asking some people why they were there and who with. I talked with a family from Daejeon who were having a great time. I then asked some older lady friends from Gwangju why they came and they told me to experience the sights and they were also having an enjoyable time. Their smiles were proof of this. Lastly I talked to a shy couple from Seosan, Chungcheongnamdo; a husband and wife on their own and having a really nice time they said. They too were enjoying the natural beauty that people come to see. From these people I gathered that most people come here to enjoy the sights and natural scenery of the area while on an older train. I guess being in a city all day long and then coming out to the country and being surrounded my non-concrete buildings and a nice river is quite the change. But I also heard that people really
Left: The old locomotive waiting for passengers at the Gokseong Train Village. Above: The new station building.
Gwangju News February 2010
27
Out and Abouts
Left: Enjoying the ‘rail-bikes’ Right: Family photo time by the locomotive engine
enjoy the past. Older people really enjoy this especially because they enjoy going into the past and taking a nostalgic walk down memory lane of simpler times perhaps. The train is coming to a stop and I find out that the train will stop for a while. Of course my first reaction is how do I get back to Gokseong. I am worried that I will be stranded at this other station. But I later relax as I discover we will go back on the same train and same route. It seems that this whole section of line has been dedicated to this train village. People come to the end of the route, can enjoy the fresh air and have a little snack, take some pictures and take in the scenery while escaping the stresses and busy cities out here in the country. Then we get on to the train again and go back to the Gokseong station. I am fascinated by the other attraction however. They call it the ‘rail bike’. When I first saw one I thought of the very old self-propelled little rail cars when two people used a seesaw action to move a little car along the rail. These rail bikes are built for four people; two in the front and two in the back. If there are only two in your party, then you both sit in the front. It’s great for visiting couples who really enjoy this ride. As the bike word is used in the name, it uses the bicycle principle by pedaling to move the cart forward. Kids also really get excited. There are two sections to the rail bike tracks. The first is a track near Gokseong station that is open all year round, though a little small. The larger and much longer track starts about halfway on the train line and ends up where the train stops, then you take the train back. It’s quite a large difference and is only open in the spring and summer. Both are quite popular and if you do come to the train village I get the impression that the larger one is the better way to go if you are here to immerse yourself in the natural surroundings of the country. You pedal your way along
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Gwangju News February 2010
the river just like the train but it’s just you and the bike. Very quiet and peaceful. I of course tried the smaller track and being alone, got strange looks but did not mind. It was a nice experience and I think I understand a little why people like them so much. I wouldn’t come every weekend of course but it’s a novel idea. There is also some movie trivia at this village for you movie goers. The Korean films Taeguki and Ice Keki were both filmed for parts at this village. For Ice Keki they built an entire street section of older Korea, which was left for the train village – you can walk around it for free. I asked someone how accurate it is, and they said it was fairly accurate. If you took a picture next to it, you’d be in pre-1950 Korea. In the film Taeguki, the train scene where the brothers are going off to war was filmed here, and the train that was used for filming also stayed at the village. All in all, this village is quite interesting in its own way. Leaving I understand why the people really get filled with excitement when they come here. Story and photos by Adam Bourque
How to Get There
To get to Gokseong from Gwangju, catch a direct bus from the main U-Square bus terminal: 3,800 won, every 15 minutes Last return bus from Gokseong to Gwangju 8:30 p.m. (but check this when you arrive in Geokseong, to make sure) From Gokseong terminal to the Train Village, walk (20 minutes – turn left twice out of terminal and go along main road, then right at main intersection) or take a taxi to 기차마을 (“Gi-cha ma-eul”). Train Prices and Times (subject to change):
Adult 6,000 won Child 5,500 won First train 9:30 a.m. Last train 7:30 p.m. Train ride takes a total of 80 minutes
Local Scene
Where You’ll Never Drink Alone… The original crew: (l-to-r) Derek, Mike, Peter, Dave in 2006
J
anuary 16th, 2010 saw the Speakeasy celebrate its 4th Anniversary. A truly proud accomplishment in an industry that sees businesses come and go. Early that evening it seemed like it would be a quiet celebration, but that all changed at around 10:00 p.m. People started flocking in in droves taking up places until it was standing room only. The real celebration kicked off with the great new local band Feed the Boats. After a good high-energy set, the amazing group U R Seoul took the stage. They kept the crowd jazzed well into the night … and morning! With drink specials every hour and a great atmosphere, Speakeasy entered its fourth year on a outstanding note. So what makes this place so special? It has been called a “refuge." It has been called, “a home away from home away from home.” It has been called simply “The Bar.” No matter what it is called, people know what place you’re talking about. The Speakeasy in Gwangju appeals to just about everyone who enters. But what keeps people coming back? Asking around, it becomes easy to understand why the bar is so popular. First off, it has something for everyone. Want to come in, sit down and actually enjoy a pint? Have a game of darts? Pool? No problem. Show up anytime between the hours of 7 and 11 and you’ll have a chance to sit down with friends in a place you can actually hear yourself think. The quiet pub not your thing? Wait a bit and you’ve got a place that is just as hopping as any
nightclub in town. Add to that the almost monthly live bands and great drink specials, you’ve got a recipe for a great night out. Secondly, you’ve really got a place you can just go in, sit down and relax. Like one customer, Michael, says, “I don’t have to plan to go out to Speakeasy. I know if I go there, friends of mine will be there.” True anytime, you’ll usually find someone you know or someone will know you. The bar staff make an effort to get to know you. As soon as you walk in you’ll feel right at home. Last it’s a place to share your troubles. You have a problem, someone at the Speakeasy has a solution. And if nobody knows, word gets passed around until your problem is solved. It’s a tourist center, information swap and all-around place to find out what you need to know. Proprietor Derek Hannon attributes Speakeasy’s success to the customers. Working in bars for many years before coming to Korea he knows that the support of a local clientle is extremely important. This is why he stresses, “You don’t want to lose the local feel. Where do you want to drink when you’re at home? You want a place where you feel comfortable. You want a place where the bartender knows your name. That’s what we try to offer here.” He continues to say that this is “your bar.” Derek and his staff work hard to give the customers what they want. Since he has owned the bar he has installed a pool table, dart board and added several beers on tap … a virtually unheard of thing in Gwangju. All of these things were put in on the recommendations of the customers. What’s next for the Speakeasy? More beer on tap? Open mic night? “You tell us,” says Derek. The Speakeasy wants to become even better over the next few years. Your opinion will help them do that. Stop by, sit down, have a pint. Share a story or two. Don’t worry about showing up by yourself. Remember, at the Speakeasy, you’ll never drink alone.
A typical night down at the Speakeasy
By Brian Burgoyne
Gwangju News February 2010
29
Food and Drink
Makkoli
New Incarnations of a Traditional ’Ju we sat on tree stump stools, no problem. With an order of dongdongju we’d of course get anju – dried fish, meat, fruits, veggies, and nuts and seeds along with rice crackers. But the best anju was the pajeon. Back in 1996 there were still several traditional places like this in Seoul, even in Gangnam, but in rural areas they were everywhere. Now, they are nearly impossible to find and have been ‘fusionized’ for trendiness. An example of this trendiness was part of my life in Kunsan back in 2004. My friends and I used to go to a makkoli house which served pineapple and strawberry makkoli. Cold, cheap and delicious, it was an excellent choice instead of a social beer after work. This place too has bitten the dust. If you just want to drink makkoli or dongdongju, no problem. Go to the local mart and pick up a plastic bottle of this booty for a couple of chunners.
M
akkoli is gaining popularity overseas, and especially in the Japanese market. It is also enjoying a resurgence as the brew of choice among youth these days, as it is cheap and easy to add fruit for a cocktail-like spin. If you have been living in Korea for a while and haven’t had a chance to try makkoli or some of the other traditional alcoholic beverages, now is a chance to check out part of Korean culture that has been morphing into a new fusion eclectic lick. My first experiences of traditional rice alcohol were with dongdongju and flower wine, or hongju. Hongju was served like an herbal tea, in western teacups – not really a traditional Korean experience, but more of a high-end wine and tea combination experience. My next experience introduced me to a dongdongju house in Jongno-3(sam)ga in Seoul. Long gone now, this DDJ was the coolest treehouse of a place to hang out. The interior was entirely made of wood; the wood floors were the same as the wooden walls and low wooden ceilings. The wooden tables were low but since
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Gwangju News February 2010
But makkoli and dongdongju are about the full experience, not just the alcohol. I encourage you to locate your neighborhood makkoli house. These days my quest for a makkoli or dongdongju house have turned up very few selections. Actually none at first, except tiny little sikdangs with no ambience at all. I asked several of my Korean friends about famous or popular makkoli houses or even a
Food and Drink
For a toss back to the old treehouse style of my 1996 Jongno-3(sam)ga days, you can hit Chondae. Far left: For Makkoli, go to Wol Mae Ne Ju Mak - From Dunkin’ Donuts, go up to the first road, turn left. It is on your left at the next intersection. Left: For DongDongJu, holler out: Ul Su - From Dunkin’ Donuts, go up to the first road, turn left. Walk to the next intersection, turn right. It is on your right, across from the walled park.
makkoli factory. Nada. Zilch. Nothing. I was able to hit a local makkoli house. Fabulous pajeon and makkoli! I also visited a small, one-room manufacturer in Hwasoon. (She had just hosed down the whole place, but the dirt didn’t seem to come off. Go figure – no soap, no disinfectant. If it doesn’t kill you, it makes you stronger, right? I am of the opinion that street food keeps me healthy. This was my medicinal dose of street food at a manufacturer.) By Maria Lisak
Makkoli at the mart... Ministop 1800 won In the beer cooler Mountain Mart 1800 won, In the alcohol fridge 7-ELEVEN 1300 won, Located in the juice & yogurt section Local Mart 1300 won, Located between the water and boxed juice, under the savory mu & sausages.
Traditional alcohol has different levels of importance in traditional Korean living. •At the bottom of the importance heap is dongdongju. For drinking and resuscitating the working class, this is a very close-to-theearth ju. •Above dongdongju is makkoli. Served to farmhands in the olden days to refresh them and get them rejuvenated for more field work, it was also served as part of the ancestor memorial ceremony. •Above makkoli was hongju. A clear wine to which fruit, like raspberries or jujube were added, less for flavor and more for color. •At the top of the ju heap is chongju. The clear liquid represented the pureness of nature. However, this Confucian ranking is a bit different than the distilling levels of ju. In the fermentation process, makkoli is the sediment which settles at the bottom. The rice grains and deep yellow color make the best makkoli. Above makkoli is the clearer, yet still milkylooking,dongdongju. More distilled than the makkoli, it has a little bit of sediment, but no rice floaters like makkoli has after a good stir or shake. The very top of the fermented alcohol rice is the clear chongju. This is the most flavorful and is much more expensive because of its pure nature within the distillation process.
Gwangju News February 2010
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Feature
Varieties of Tea Plants Canto XIII Miraculous roots entrusted in marvelous Mount Jiri As soon as jade green waves And aroma coalesce Mastering in all brightness, Nothing blocked. Your miraculous roots Entrusted in marvelous mountains, Having the presence of a seeseon and solidity of jade. Truly, you are an extraordinary seed. The Venerable Cho Eui (tran. Chang Bae Kim) Current Identification System
Level of Oxidation
Green
None
Yellow
None
White
Very Slight (>8 percent)
Oolong
Partial (20-80 percent)
Black
Complete Always Fermented, not always oxidized
Pu-erh
Subspecies of the Tea: 1. China Bush (Camellia Sinensis var. Sinensis) 2. Assam Bush (Camellia Sinensis var. Assamica) 3. Java Bush (Camellia Sinensis var. Cambodi)
E
ven though there are many species in the camellia genus of flowering plants, originally found in eastern and south eastern Asia, there is only one species used to make tea, Camellia Sinensis. There are three regional sub-species of camellia sinensis, each with their own characteristics. The first and most revered is the camellia sinensis var. sinensis or “china bush.” This is the original tea of China and it is used to produce a vast array of regional styles. China bush grows best in mountainous areas with dry winters, wet monsoons in the late spring, followed by short hot summers. The soil should be light and able to drain well. The leaves of the china bush are often small and concentrated due to strenuous growing conditions
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Gwangju News February 2010
thus they produce the finest green teas. Almost all the tea in China, Korea, Japan, and Taiwan is china bush and nearly all green tea and oolong tea is made from china bush. “Assam bush” (camellia sinensis var. assamica) is a type of tea originally from Assam in India. At first thought to be an inferior species, Assam bush is now the primary producer of full-bodied black teas throughout the world. Many of the former British colonies in Asia and Africa now produce black tea from Assam bush. Able to withstand year round precipitation, dense soils and humid tropical climates, Assam bush grows prodigiously throughout the year. Because of the favorable growing conditions, Assam plants produce bigger and denser foliages. These larger leaves lack the lightness and subtlety of the china bush buds used for green tea. The rich dark leaves, however, produce the black teas the world has come to love in tea bags and with milk and sugar. The final variety, and by far the least common, is “Java Bush” (camellia sinensis var. cambodi). This bush is similar to Assam in growing conditions and in the style of tea produced. Found throughout Indonesia especially on the island of Java, the origins are not certain. It is either an indigenous variety or a cross strain of Assam bush imported by the Dutch during the colonial period. In either case, it is mainly used to make full-bodied black teas. Other than sub-variety, any variations in the color, flavor or shape of the finished tea is due to production, the region and the cultural preferences of the consumers. There are a lot of variables that determine the outcome of a finished tea. The first is the sub-variety of the tea plant: China, Assam, or Java bush. Second, the region of production is a great factor; and within regions there are also variations in climate, soil, sunlight, and altitude that effect the plant and the flavor of the tea. Thirdly, the methods of production vary greatly and finished teas reflect the individuality of each teamaker. Nevertheless, tea can be broadly grouped into several categories based on two important factors, oxidation and fermentation. Oxidation occurs when enzymes break down the green chlorophyll molecules in fresh tea leaves. The longer oxidation occurs, the
Feature
darker the leaves become; it is the art of the tea maker to determine how and when this process stops. The most common type of tea in Korean, Japan and China is green tea. Green tea is not oxidized, which is why it retains its bright green color and pronounced flavors. Yellow tea also is not oxidized but since it is left to rest briefly the leaves lose some of their green color. Yellow tea is very rare and it is, to my knowledge, only found in China. Many tea producers in Korea advertise their products as Hwang-Cha or Yellow tea, but in their explanations they also refer to the teas as being Balhyo-cha or fermented tea. Inconsistencies such as these are quite common since many producers (and marketers) are free to choose whichever nomenclature they see fit. White tea, known for its mild and gentle flavor, is only slightly oxidized. White tea is also not easy to find and I do not think I have ever seen it for sale in Korea. Oolong tea is the most popular type of tea in Taiwan and it is exceedingly common in China, especially in the renowned Fujian Province, which produces large amounts. Oolong tea, sometimes called blue tea, has a large range of oxidations; some oolongs from the high mountains of Taiwan, which are less oxidized, are very green and fresh tasting while others from northern Taiwan and throughout Fujian can be very heavily oxidized producing dark, rich liquors. Black tea is fully oxidized and is usually characterized by intense red liquors with lots of body. One noteworthy exception is the wonderfully fragrant Darjeeling, a high mountain black tea made from China bush. Finally, there is Pu-erh tea (Bo-ee Cha in Korean) which, because of the tremendous demand and purported health benefits, has become a bit of a
Pu-erh tea
http://114t.net
contentious issue. Traditionally pu-erh is made from green tea, which is compressed into bricks with slight amounts of water and micro-organisms and allowed to ferment for months or years. This type of tea is very expensive and unless you are dealing with a reputable dealer, it is hard to find. Many tea sellers rely on consumer ignorance and often falsely market their puerh as being authentic. The more common type, and by far less expensive (but still suspiciously expensive in Korea), is made from fully oxidized tea that is rapidly fermented through a mechanized process developed in China during the 1970s. In either case both types of puerh are characterized by their rustic compressed appearances (often in large disks) and their creamy, earthy flavors. After pu-erh, the last general category includes scented and blended teas. Many tea producers often experiment with mixing different teas and adding flavors. Arguably the two most famous are Earl Grey, made from citrus scented black tea, and jasmine tea which is green tea scented with jasmine flowers. Beyond broad categories, in the end, types of tea vary from place to place, season to season and producer to producer. It is always best to drink what is readily available and fresh. By Waran Parsons
Different tea colors: (l-to-r) Green tea, Yellow tea, Oolong tea and Black tea
Gwangju News Wikipedia February Commons 2010 33
Information
How to Sort Your Garbage for Collection
F
or any new resident in Korea, a few days into their new life, they find themselves facing a pressing and urgent question. Where do I put all my garbage? Turns out, the answer is much more complicated than might be expected, with an array of different requirements for different types of garbage and different types of residences.
Hours and Place (for private residences) Place garbage outside residence between 8 p.m. – 4 a.m. Garbage will be taken away before sunrise.
Food Waste
General Garbage General, non-food waste, non-recyclable garbage goes into a special garbage bag which you’ll need to buy. •They are easily purchased at supermarkets and local marts – ask for 쓰레기봉 투“sseu-re-gi bong-tu”. •Bags come in various sizes in semi-transparent colors for each district e.g. General garbage bag Buk-gu: orange, Dong-gu: purple, Nam-gu: yellow, Seo-gu: white, Gwangsan-gu: pink. You must buy the correct color for your district. •Fill the garbage bags with a declared amount and tie the top of the bag twice in the shape of a cross (+) •Double check the district specified on the garbage bag (each district uses different bags)
General Garbage Bag Prices Size (liter)
5
10
20
Price (won)
200
380
740
30
40/50 50/75
100
1,110 1,830 2,730 3,640 *size and price vary for each district.
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Gwangju News February 2010
Food-waste bins in an apartment complex
•Apartment - dispose of food waste in the communal food-waste bin inside your apartment complex •Private Residences - you need to get a special food-waste bucket, available from the supermarket near your home - buy the food-waste sticker and put it on the basket. It’s available at supermarkets and small stores, ask for 음식물스티커 “um-shik-mul seu-ti-koh” - Stickers cost about 6,000 won and you need a new one every month.
Recyclable Garbage •Non-recyclable items include shoes, electric rice cooker, electric home appliance, cookie containers,
Information
videotape, medicine bottle, hula hoop, delivery water container, clock, window frame, PVC pipe, toy, bag, oil paper for floor, medical items, blanket etc. •For apartments, use the communal box or basket on the designated place for recycling inside your apartment complex. You do not need to use a standard garbage bag •For private residences, sort recycling by type and place in an ordinary plastic bag. Place bag outside house for collection. •Items mixed with general waste will not be collected. •Separate recycling waste by type Items
Recyclable items
Non-recyclable items
A storage for recyclable items in an apartment complex
paper
Newspapers, books, notes, wrapping paper, corrugated cardboard, paper bags, paper boxes, milk carton
Plastic coated paper bags and cups etc
staff will visit next day → double check the item → buy sticker and place on item → district office will collect.
glass
Beer bottle, liquor bottle, beverage bottles, tonic bottles
Sheet glass, mirror, heatproof tableware, milk-white bottles, cosmetic bottles, ceramic wares
metal
PET bottles
Beverage cans, spray can, steel tools, iron wires, aluminum,, stainless utensils
Disposable plastic bag, packing plastic bag (check recycling mark)
Fluores After removing the packing paper, cent bulbs discharge
Buk-gu: Mon, Wed, Thu, Sat (general waste), Mon, Wed, Thu, Sat (recycling waste), Mon-Sat (food waste) Seo-gu: Mon-Sat (general waste), Mon-Sat (recycling waste), Mon-Sat (food waste) Nam-gu: Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat (general waste), Wed (recycling waste), Mon-Sat (food waste)
Vessels with number “1” marked at the bottom
with number “2, 4, plastics Items 5” marked at the bottom
plastic bags
Paint container, oil container, container of noxious materials
Dong-gu: Mon-Sat (general waste), Mon-Sat (recycling waste), every other day (food waste)
Items with number “3, 7” at the bottom, writing implements, bottoms, sockets, electric heaters, toys, babywalkers, telephone, PP and PE coated materials Plastic bags polluted by other substance
Broken bulbs
Large Waste •Large waste refers to items that cannot fit into standard garbage bags, such as furniture, electric home appliances, beds, office machines, computers etc •Notify the local dong office or district office → office
Gwangsan-gu: Mon-Sat (general waste), designated place (recycling waste), every other day (food waste)
•Each district office charges fees for collecting large waste items. For example Item
Size
Cost (in Buk-gu)
Washing machine
All size
6,000 won
TV
Regular
5,000 won
Computer
-
3,000 won
Refrigerator
Over 300ℓ
8,000 won
Table
double
6,000 won
For more information: 062-971-0243, 062-510-1336
Story by Kim Minsu Photos by Shigeko Kitaguchi
Gwangju News February 2010
35
KoreaMaria: Food Critic
Minsokchon Great
Pork & Beef Ribs: 8-13,000 won Lunch Special: 7,000 won Other noodle and rice dishes: 5-8,000 won Buses: 9, 36, 45, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 74, 80, 87, 98, 150, 151, 152, 518, 1000, 1187 Cultural Complex Station(Nam) bus stop Subway: Cultural Complex station exit 3 Across from the huge construction site downtown
Upscale Korean traditional. Wood everywhere. Décor of wicker baskets, celadon, lattice windows, stone floors, floor seating is wood, with low wood tables and dark silk cushions. The entrance has several ink and calligraphy prints. Cozy, romantic downstairs; airy and bright upstairs. If you’re a meat eater, you’ll love it. The rib casserole lunch special is not to be missed. Galbi Jeongol Jungshik is loaded with huge servings of meat, spinach, bean thread noodles, green onions, several kinds of mushrooms, red pepper, carrots and zucchini. It comes with a cabbage salad dressed in a citrus vinaigrette, clams in a soy and onion sauce, seaweeded green onions, huge chunks of kimchi mu, bean sprouts, and of course, long slabs of kimchi and leek kimchi. There are several sauces of fishy pepper paste, jackal, and another of sweet and salty gochujang, sesame and soy. You get rice with some root veggies, dolsot style, which you scoop out into another bowl, and then add water to your hot rice pot for a follow up bowl of nurungji. The meal finishes with a cup of shikye, a cold rice drink with rice floaters. If you have company coming in town from overseas, this is a great introduction to Korean food in a convenient place with great ambiance. Food choices are not too spicy, and the restaurant showcases some nice pieces of Korean traditional culture, which makes sense since the restaurant name translates into “folk village”. You can also order a traditional kalbi table grill, galbitang, dolsot bibimbap, or the other lunch special of soy-marinated blue crab. Lunch specials are available from 11:30 a.m.- 4 p.m., but the restaurant is open until 11:30 p.m. I’ve walked by this restaurant a hundred times before walking in the door and partaking of a wonderful meal. I hope you’ll make an effort to go here when you are looking for a quality Korean food experience downtown.
By Maria Lisak at Gwangju University 36
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Food and Drink
we have a wetter time of it, so it can feel just as cold. The temperatures here, however, forced people into creating a snack that was piping hot that kept out the cold. The fat and sugar content of hoddok gave people enough energy to continue with their daily tasks (often spent outside in the cold). Hoddok keeps people’s energy up between meals and gives them a nice blast of warmth at the same time. Most hoddok vendors serve their wares straight from the hot-plate and customers usually eat them directly at the vendor, or take a bag away to feed their families or colleagues. As they’ve traditionally been a staple for those on low incomes, hoddok are also incredibly cheap ... one or two will usually cost you less than 1,000 won, with anything up to five pancakes between 2,000-3,000 won (if you’re a return customer, I’m beginning to find, this stands you in good stead for discounts, although vendors usually need the money a lot more than I do!) Hoddok are also great with a fresh coffee or with a beaker or two of makkoli. So, if you feel in need of something to warm you up and give you a bit of energy give hoddok a try. You won’t be disappointed! Alternately you can learn to make hoddok, which is relatively simple. Try this web page for basic ingredients and directions: http://recipes.wikia.com/wiki/Ho_Dduk_%28korean_P ancakes%29
In Praise of Hoddok:
The Korean Pancake Experience
H
oddok, for newcomers to Korea, are small Korean pancakes made with eggs, flour and brown sugar.
Story and photos by Andrew O’Donnell Andrew O’Donnell is a poet, blogger, teacher and editor and lives in Gwangju. If you have poetry/new writing on any topic feel free to submit work to the email below. www.myspace.com/ajodonnell, www.openseasonpress.com, andrewodonnell@riseup.net, www.free-ali.blogspot.com
And I’m addicted. I’m not sure what it is, maybe it’s that this global economic depression that has brought all the hoddok sellers out en masse or maybe I’ve not noticed it during previous winters but regardless, it feels like ‘hoddeok time’. Hoddok (pronounced ‘o’ as in throw, ‘ddok’ as close to ‘dock’) has long been a staple for Koreans during the winter months, and has been a favourite with those on the lowest incomes in Korea. Decades ago these pancakes would be a support to rural and city dwellers who, working through the difficult temperatures of the winter months. Temperature-wise winters are actually significantly colder in Korea than in my home country of Britain, even though
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Film Review
Insadong Scandal Directed by : Park Hee-gon Starring- Uhm Jung Wha, Kim Rae Won and Im Ha Ryong Genre-Action/Crime
ince being in Korea, I’ve been lucky enough to watch a large amount of Korean films, both good and bad. In watching the Insadong Scandal I walked away feeling very satisfied. I was quite pleasantly surprised as the only thing I knew about the film before seeing it was that it was based on an actual true event here in Korea. The general overview is quite complex as the film has a lot of layers. This was one of the aspects that really appealed to me. After watching it, I would easily say that it’s a Korean art version of Oceans 11 mixed with Lock Stock and Two Smoking Barrels.
S
The film opens with an art dealer complaining loudly about a deal gone bad and someone stealing something from him. We are immediately introduced to the female lead Bae Tae Jin portrayed by Uhm Jung Wha. She’s a ruthless art collector and dealer. Next we’re introduced to Lee Kang Joon played by Kim Rae Won who is an art restorer whom Bae Tae jin wants to restore the painting she acquired. Next we are introduced to the man in charge of the underground antique world in Insadong, Kwong Ma Dam played by Im Ha Ryong. The cultural asset squad is also highlighted in the film; equivalent to a kind of ‘Cultural Police’ that protect Korean Cultural Assets. Within this squad we’re introduced to the police group, and the most interesting character is the energetic Choi Ha Keong. Her character illustrates what occurs in the Korean workplace when an underling makes a mistake and the stress that the superiors undergo. Her past mistakes have tarnished her reputation, but she doesn’t give up on her theory on how corrupt Bae is doing deals on the side. As the film continues, relationships develop that get confusing at the beginning, and characters have dealings with a lot of other characters. I was at a loss in the
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beginning with the introduction of the large amount of characters and their relationships to each other. However once all the players are brought to light, the director brings the relationships all together slowly and you start to realize that there are deeper implications than just a bad art dealer, an art restorer and the cultural asset squad. The film pace changes quite a lot, but by keeping an eye on the subtitles, one can keep up with it. Everyone has their own goals. We find out that the art restorer has his own agenda and other talents rather than just restoring. He’s hailed as one of the best Asian forgers there are. Bae has dealings with everyone and anyone that she can make money on, and it’s made clear that the ends justify the means when it comes to the bottom line of getting some money. Kwong Ma Dam is an interesting character as he is the man that is operating the shop in Insadong where we foreigners would go shopping for that antique for someone back home. It shows us that even though he’s trying to make an extra buck on his version by any means necessary, but he has a sense of loyalty or passion when he explains the ultimate forging process. The cultural assets squad agents are at his shop while he tries to explain how to forge a painting that is 500 years old with materials of the present day. During the explanation we see how the materials are collected and the passion and pride taken during this particular forging process. The film’s surprise ending leaves one feeling quite good about the whole thing. Part of one of the reason that this film is really enjoyable is that it highlights certain cultural art and other aspects that perhaps we as foreigners might miss out on completely. The painting, that was discovered was from the Josun Dynasty, might inspire some of us to look into more of the past of the Josun Dynasty. Other parts of Korean culture are highlighted as well from norae bangs to a small scene illustrating how far an individual was willing to go to fund his child’s education. Another aspect of the film is a brief mention of the cultural rivalry between Japan and Korea. While it’s not a large part of the theme, by mentioning it and bringing it up, it’s another part of Korean culture that we as foreigners might not be aware of. By saying we as foreigners, I’m thinking of someone back home watching this film and seeing these parts of Korean culture that are peppered through the film. In the end, the film has jumped immediately into my top 10 Korean films as of now. It is very well paced, with good action and not long and drawn out as Korean films sometimes are. My official recommendation or rating is 9/10. Swing by the DVD shop or DVD bang and check it out. By Adam Bourque
Cartoon
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Upcoming Events
Festivals
Backstreet Boys-Backstreet’s Back!
Art Exhibitions Engravings of Korean Representative Artists Exhibition
2010 Jeju Jeongwol Daeboreum Fire Festival Saebyeol Oreum Bogseong-ri, Aewoleup, Jeju-si, Jeju February 26 － 28 Inje Yongdae Hwnagtae (Pollack) Festival Yongdae 3-ri, Inje-gun, Gangwon-do February 26 － March 1st Free 033-462-4808 http://yongdaeri.com/festival
February 24th,8 pm AX-Korea Gwangnaru Station, Line5, Exit2. Cross the road, turn left and walk 5 minutes. The hall is located behind the youth center. 110,000won (02)3443-9969 Whitney Houston-Nothing But Love World Tour in Seoul
－ February 21st, 2010 Gallery D (behind GIC building) Mona Lisa Mustache － February 21st, 2010 Sangrok Gallery, Gwangju Museum of Art Ha, Jeong Woong Collection February 12th － May 30th, 2010 The 5th Exhibit Hall, Gwangju Museum of Art
Performances
New Possessions Collection February 5th － May 30th, 2010 The 6th Exhibit Hall, Gwangju Museum of Art
The Musical, “The Last Empress(명 성황후)” February 6th － 7th, 2010 Gwangju Culture & Art Center (Grand Theatre) Admission: 50,000 － 120,000 won
Children’s Gallery 1 February 27th － May 23rd, 2010 Children’s Gallery, Gwangju Museum of Art
Seung Cheol Lee Concert February 27th Gwangju Culture & Art Center (Grand Theatre) Admission: 66000 － 99000 won Gwangju Sympony Orchestra Regular Performance “Sea and Pine Tree”
February 20th 7:30 pm Gwangju Culture & Art Center (Grand Theatre) Admission: 10,000 － 30,000 won
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February 6th － 7th,7 pm R:180,000won, S:150,000won A:100,000won, B:70,000won (02)2167-6419 Gymnasium No.1, Olympic Park Olympic Park Station, Line 5, Exit3. Chicago-Live in Seoul
February 23rd,8 pm Gymnasium No.2, Olympic Prk Olympic Park Station, Line5, Exit3 VIP:150,000won, R:90,000won, S:70,000won, A:50,000won (02)3446-3226
Andy Warhol, the Greatest － April 4th, 2010 Seoul Museum of Art 2010 Year of the Tiger Special Exhibition － March 1st National Folk Museum of Korea Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 1 or Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3, Exit 5. Walk along Samcheong-dong Street. The museum is located on the left. Green bus no. 11 is available. 02-3704-3114 2009 Bologna Illustrators of Children's Books － March 1st Admission fee: adults 10,000 won, youths 7,000 won Hangaram Design Museum, Seoul Arts Center Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exit 4 & 5, Walk 5-10 minutes or take shuttle bus (bus no. 12 or 4429)
Upcoming Events
Dwelling dwell-ing (n) － (1) a place to live in (2) a lingering thought What does it mean to dwell in a city or community? What are the memories that dwell in all of us, in our personal space and in the public consciousness? Dwelling is a tripart exhibition featuring American visual artist Tamara Belden, Canadian architect Miriam Ho, and Gwangju University photographers Kim Sara and Kim Ye-Ji.
Exhibition Period: February 6th - March 5th Opening with Artists Talk: February 6th (Sat) at 2:30pm at the GAIA Gallery, GIC “Disappearing Gwangju" by Miriam Ho Found in the gaps between high-rise apartment towers in Gwangju are thriving colonies of low-slung houses. Dating from the 1960s, these areas of affordable housing had developed alongside the industrializing city. Under Park Chung Hee's New Community Movement (Saemaul Undong), traditional rural homes - the chogajib (초가집), a thatched roof hanok - were ubiquitously standardized using widely available industrial materials like corrugated metal and concrete block. Today, these settlements house the urban poor, predominantly the elderly. Generally viewed as bland, outdated structures, and often as a painful reminder of a period of political tyranny, these tenements - known as slabjibs (슬라브 집) - have nevertheless acquired their own character through decades of inhabitation. Modern renovations and basic repairs have altered the standard building envelope, and even as a slabijib is abandoned, it is transformed by the beautiful texture of decay. There are many reasons why people still live in these vibrant communities. Using the skills of an architect (Miriam Ho), Disappearing Gwangju is a documentation exploring the conditions and fate of Saemaul dwelling.
“Beautiful Corner of Gwangju” by Kim Sara & Kim Ye-Ji Two student photographers at Gwangju University have sought out neglected urban scenes and outdated structures with an eye for beauty. “Beautiful Corner of Gwangju” is their trial to shed new light on these forgotten urban fragments.
“Schaden Freud: Chapter 2” by Tamara Belden The project is part of an ongoing, thematic autobiography by American visual artist, Tamara Belden. Schaden Freud centers on the impact of her mother's death (1990) and the results of forcing real life to compete with a ghost. Chapter 2 attempts to capture the substance of the artist's relationships with her past mentors. As an artist, Tamara enjoys linking different visual symbols and allusions to create idiosyncratic language. Borrowing from the visual language of comics, the chapter is a collection of seven “panels” in a particular order. Each panel is an illustration on a found object. The meaning inherent in the objects themselves combines with the added text and image, expanding the language of the story.
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Movies
Movies Edge of Darkness Release Date: 25 Feb 2010 Genre: Horror/Suspense Language: English Edge of Darkness Synopsis CASINO ROYALE filmmaker Martin Campbell directs a remake of his own BBC mini-series with this thriller. Mel Gibson stars as Thomas Craven, a man who has spent years as a detective in Boston. When his own daughter is killed near the door of his home, Craven realizes that her death is only one piece of a puzzle filled with corruption and conspiracy, and it falls to him to discover who is behind the crime. Edge of Darkness Cast & Crew Director: Martin Campbell Screenwriter: William Monahan, Andrew Bovell Producer: Graham King, Michael Wearing Studio: Warner Bros. Starring: Mel Gibson, Ray Winstone, Danny Huston, Bojana Novakovic, Shawn Roberts
The Wolf Man Release Date: 11 Feb 2010 Genre: Horror/Suspense Language: English The Wolf Man Synopsis Inspired by the classic Universal film that launched a legacy of horror, The Wolfman brings the myth of a cursed man back to its iconic origins. Oscar winner Benicio Del Toro stars as Lawrence Talbot, a haunted nobleman lured back to his family estate after his brother vanishes. Reunited with his estranged father (Oscar winner Anthony Hopkins), Talbot sets out to find his brother...and discovers a horrifying destiny for himself. Lawrence Talbot's childhood ended the night his mother died. After he left the sleepy Victorian hamlet of Blackmoor, he spent decades recovering and trying to forget. But when his brother's fianc_e, Gwen Conliffe (Emily Blunt), tracks him down to help find her missing love, Talbot returns home to join the search. He learns that something with brute strength and insatiable bloodlust has been killing the villagers, and that a suspicious Scotland Yard inspector named Aberline (Hugo Weaving) has come to investigate. As he pieces together the gory puzzle, he hears of an ancient curse that turns the afflicted into werewolves when the moon is
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full. Now, if he has any chance at ending the slaughter and protecting the woman he has grown to love, Talbot must destroy the vicious creature in the woods surrounding Blackmoor. But as he hunts for the nightmarish beast, a simple man with a tortured past will uncover a primal side to himself...one he never imagined existed. The Wolf Man Cast & Crew Director: Joe Johnston Screenwriter: Andrew Kevin Walker, David Self Producer: Scott Stuber, Benicio Del Toro, Rick Yorn, Sean Daniel Composer: Danny Elfman Studio: Universal Pictures Starring: Benicio Del Toro, Anthony Hopkins, Emily Blunt, Hugo Weaving
Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs Release Date: 11 Feb 2010 Genre: Children Language: English Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs Synopsis Inspired by Ron and Judi Barrett's beloved children's book of the same name, CLOUDY WITH A CHANCE OF MEATBALLS follows inventor Flint Lockwood (voice of Bill Hader) and brainy weathergirl Sam Sparks (voice of Anna Faris) as they attempt to discover why the rain in their small town has stopped while food is falling in its place. Meanwhile, lifelong bully Brent (voice of Adam Samberg) relishes in tormenting Flint just as he did when they were kids, and Mayor Shelbourne (voice of Bruce Campbell) schemes to use Flint's latest invention--a device designed to improve everyone's lives--for his own personal gain. Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs Cast & Crew Director: Chris Miller, Phil Lord Screenwriter: Chris Miller, Phil Lord Producer: Pam Marsden Composer: Mark Mothersbaugh Studio: Sony Pictures Entertainment Starring: Bill Hader, Anna Faris, James Caan, Bruce Campbell, Andy Samberg, Mr. T, Bobb'e J. Thompson, Benjamin Bratt, Neil Patrick Harris, Al Roker, Lauren Graham, Will Forte, Tracy Morgan Compiled by Ahn Hong-pyo, Park Su-ji, Park Min-ji, Ko Nam-il, Noh In-woo
Vocabulary Exercise’s Answer (from page 19) 답: 사과, 운동, 설날, 떡국, 가게, 시내, 장갑, 난로, 정치, 배정, 인파
GIC Talk
GIC Talk
February 13 No GIC Talk “Happy Seollal”
Time: Every Saturday, 14:30-16:00 Place: GIC office (5th floor of Jeon-il Bldg)
February 20 TBA
February 6 Topic: "Dwelling" Artists Talk Speaker: Miriam Ho, Tamara Belden (ESL instructors)
February 27 Topic: 1) My experience as an academic visiting several countries around the world. 2) My present experiences of teaching Korean students and my thoughts about Korean Higher Education System
Professor Datta and his wife
Speaker: Prosun Kumar Datta (Visiting Professor at Chosun University)
This artist talk will be a time for artists to discuss their artistic practice focusing on their recent projects and share their initial thoughts on the theme of ‘Disappearing Gwangju’ (Miriam Ho) and ‘Schaden Freud: Chapter 2’ (Tamara Belden). - See pages 16-18 for more details.
All talks take place at the GIC office. For more information, visit www.gic.or.kr or contact Kim Singsing at: gwangjuic@gmail.com Check out pictures from previous GIC Talks http://picasaweb.google.com/gictalk
Copy Editor Position We're still looking for someone to fill the currently empty copy editor position here at Gwangju News. If you're interested, please read the roles and requirements below, and if it sounds like you, please contact us at gwangjunews@gmail.com. Roles: Copy edit the magazine. This entails spending around 3-4 hours, one day near the end of each month, to go through the final version of the magazine, correct errors, finalise content and ensure consistency of style and spelling in line with the magazine’s style guide. Requirements: - have a good grasp of English, spelling and grammar - have a sharp eye for catching errors and inconsistencies - be able to visit GIC once a month for around 4 hours, between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. on a weekday
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Community Board
Gwangju News Needs You Due to the rapid expansion of our community, we need more volunteers to help with the running of the magazine. Help the community and gain new skills. You can help in a variety of roles: - proofreading - photography - writing - layout - administration - website or any other way YOU can think of. Contact: gwangjunews@gmail.com Help Gwangju News Magazine! Volunteer one day a month GIC needs volunteers to mail out Gwangju News. Gwangju News, published monthly, is sent to nearly 700 addresses. Join our Gwangju News mailout volunteers at GIC. Volunteers are called 48 hours before the mail-out day (during the first week of each month). GIC needs 6-8 people who can help. GIC and Gwangju News are only as good as the volunteers who bring it to life! Contact GIC at 062-226-2733/4, or e-mail us at: gwangjuic@gmail.com. Are you looking for a translation service? Translation Service is available at GIC. Korean to English, English to Korean - Certificates; Criminal History, Family relation certificate, Marital Statement, Medical Record, etc - Webpages & catalogues - abstracts, literature, etc Contact GIC for more information 062-226-2733/4 Ideas into Action Grant Workshop: Turning an idea into a project proposal for GIC or Gwangju. 3rd Saturday of the month 5-7pm @ GIC This is an opportunity for you to put your idea into action at GIC or for the Gwangju community. Attendees will have an opportunity to design, develop and implement ideas for our community with the assistance of Maria Lisak, a longtime GIC volunteer. Each month provides mentoring and coaching to attendees. No regular instruction is planned. This workshop is
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for people who are tired of “just talking” about their idea and want to see it happen. Drop ins are welcome. GIC membership required. My Life in Gwangju “My Life in Gwangju” is a five week art project which uses photography, drawing, and collage alongside dialogue to bring together a variety of people living, working and studying in Gwangju. The purpose of the project is to creatively explore our personal relationship to Gwangju and meet other people who also call Gwangju home. Each week the group will meet in class to share and make art work; in addition to in class projects participants will receive a short individual assignment to complete each week. Participants will have an opportunity to exhibit their art works at the GAIA Gallery in May. The program is open to everyone with basic English skills and strong a desire to make; digital camera and sketch books are required. (Application needed) Dates: March 13, 27 April 10 and 24, Final art show May 1st. For detail information, please visit the GIC website at www.gic.or.kr/eng
treatment. www.joongang.or.kr/clinic How to get to there: Buses - 19, 26, 39, 59, 61, 74 (around Hwajeong crossroads) Subway - Exit 2 Hwajeong Station. Apostolate to Migrants Center 969-10 Wolgok-dong, Gwangsan-gu Phone: 062-954-8004 Buses: 18, 20, 29, 37, 40, 98, 196, 700, 720 get off at Wolgok market bus stop. Mass: Sundays 3 p.m. at Wolgok-dong Catholic Church GIC Counseling Team Do you need some help or question about living in Gwangju? Contact GIC Counseling Volunteers at giccounseling@gmail.com We will try to provide best information and services for you. The Gwangju Book Club Meets every Wednesday evening at 7:30 p.m. in front of the downtown YMCA before moving nearby for a discussion over coffee. Welcoming new members! Look up 'Gwangju Book Club' on Facebook for more details, or email cherrycoke52@hotmail.com for more information.
Sung Bin Orphanage Sung Bin Orphanage is looking for long-term volunteers. We would like you to give at least two Saturdays per month. As well as being a friend, you will be asked to teach basic English to girls aged 7 to 14. For more information please contact Mike at: sungbinvolunteers@gmail.com.
The Gwangju Women's FC Meets every Sunday afternoon at 1 p.m. in Pungam-dong Welcoming new members! Check out 'Gwangu Women's FC' on Facebook for more details, or email cherrycoke52@hotmail.com for more information.
Gwangju Men’s Soccer The Gwangju international soccer team plays regularly most weekends. If you are interested in playing, e-mail: gwangju_soccer@yahoo.com.
Gwangju Parents Association Want to share ideas on ways to raise children and talk about alternative educational options in Korea. The web forum is open to people of all nationalities. Please join our Facebook group: gwangju parents
Free Health Clinic for Foreigners Venue: Gwangju Joongang Presbyterian Church. Time: Sundays from 12:30 p.m. to 2 p.m. Offers: Internal medicine, Oriental medicine and Dental service. You could take some medicine after
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Advertise in Gwangju News Target Your Customers! Does your business cater to the foreign community? Advertising in Gwangju News is the best way to reach your target market. 3,000 copies are printed and distributed every month. News about your services will spread like wildfire! For advertising information contact Kim Minsu at (062) 226-2734 or e-mail: gwangjunews@gmail.com
Worship at Dongmyung English Service Sunday 11:30 am, Education Bld.
Pastor : Dan Hornbostel (010-5188-8940)
Bus: 15, 27, 28, 55, 74, 80, 1000, 1187 get off at Nongjang Dari or at Court Office Entrance
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