Rome Concierge n. 2

OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF THE ROMAN ASSOCIATION OF HOTEL CONCIERGES “LES CLEFS D’OR“

ROME CONCIERGE

USEFUL CITY INFORMATION

information

ART AND EVENTS \ LESSER-KNOWN CHURCHES ROMAN OTTOBRATA \ ITALY’S FIRST RYDER CUP THE BEST GELATO AND GRANITA TOP ATTRACTIONS \ RESTAURANTS GUIDE

n.2

september/october 2023

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INDEX

N.2

september/october 2023

13 Events: dates for your diary 17 Art appointments 21 Fashions tips: the must-have items 26 Lesser-known churches to visit in Rome 40 The Roman Ottobrata 52 Italy’s first Ryder Cup 56 The best ice cream and granita

ITINERARY churches 26

ITINERARY ottobrata 40

ART appointments 17

INDEX

N.2

september/october 2023

TOP PLACES 66 Museums and archaeological sites 73 Monuments 76 Churches 82 Gardens and parks 83 Palaces 86 Restaurants 94 Information travelling 96 Hotels 98 Maps

SPORT ryder cup 52

TASTE gelato and granita 56

bi-monthly magazine

Official magazine of the Roman Association of Hotel Concierges “Les Clefs d’Or” www.romelesclefsdor.com PRESIDENT Ekaterina Krotova PUBLISHER

Alex Vittorio Lana & Matteo Parigi Bini EDITOR IN CHIEF Matteo Parigi Bini MANAGING EDITOR Martina Olivieri EDITORIAL STAFF Teresa Favi, Francesca Lombardi, Virginia Mammoli COVER Valentina Stefanelli PHOTOGRAPHERS Valentina Stefanelli, Daniele Fregonse, Dario Garofalo ART EDITORS Melania Branca, Clelia Giardina TRANSLATIONS Centotraduzioni, Tessa Conticelli ADVERTISING AND MARKETING DIRECTOR Alex Vittorio Lana ADVERTISING Nicola Brigandì, Alessandra Nardelli, Monica Offidani, Paola Paciotti, Stefano Papini EDITORIAL OFFICE Gruppo Editoriale via Cristoforo Landino, 2 - 50129 Firenze - Italy ph +39 055 0498097 - www.gruppoeditoriale.com Rome Concierge information n°2 pending registration PRINT Baroni & Gori FSC_C108815_New_MIX_Paper_Landscape_Black.pdf

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06/04/23

09:14

Questo periodico è associato alla Unione Stampa Periodica Italiana

copyright © Gruppo Editoriale srl

Via Belsiana 68, 00187, Roma www.malo.it

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EDITORIAL

WELCOME TO ROME

TEXT Ekaterina Krotova President of the Roman Association of Hotel Concierges “Les Clefs d’Or”

need and, above all, our suggestions for the best the city has to offer in September and October. In this issue, provided personally by us to you, we will share the events you should not miss, the most amusing exhibitions to visit in the city and the restaurants absolutely worth

D

trying. Along with this, the ear Guest,

most beautiful churches, uni-

On behalf of all the

que itineraries in and outside

Golden

con-

of Rome to enjoy the “ottobrata

cierges, we wish you a very

romana” season, best places to

warm welcome to Rome. Rome

enjoy gelato and the highly an-

Concierge Information is our

ticipated Ryder Cup 2023.

concrete commitment to ma-

We remain at your disposal at

king your stay in our city a

our hotels, delighted to receive

truly memorable experience.

your inquiries and requests.

In this magazine you will find

From all of us, have a wonder-

all the information you might

ful and amazing stay!

Keys

11

EVENTS

DATES FOR YOUR DIARY

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ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL 2023 Until 19 November

An exceptional calendar that offers a wide range of not to be missed cultural events, with a total of 90 shows, 300 performances and over 500 artists from all over the world. This edition celebrates the power of the arts in overcoming geographical and temporal barriers, creating fertile ground for dialogue between different art forms.

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ROME ART WEEK 23 - 28 October

An annual event, spread throughout the city and totally dedicated to contemporary art. The aim is to offer a public of enthusiasts, collectors and scholars an overview of the capital’s contemporary art scene, through events in exhibition spaces, artists’ open studios and free cultural projects.

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ROME FILM FEST 2023

18 - 29 October Auditorium Parco della Musica Ennio Morricone The programme includes an international competition with films judged by a jury of professionals from the world of cinema, culture and the arts, non-competitive sections, meetings with the public, events, special screenings and tributes. Also on the bill is Alice nella città, the independent, parallel section of the Film Fest dedicated to the younger generations.

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EVENTS

EVENINGS AT THE OPERA Teatro dell’Opera di Roma

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On October 6, Israeli conductor Omer Meir Wellber makes his debut on the podium with the first act of Die Walküre (The Valkyrie) in concert form. From 13 to 21 October, five performances of Julius Caesar in Egypt by Georg Friedrich Händel. Between the performances of Giulio Cesare in Egypt, there is also a concert featuring three great countertenors: Carlo Vistoli, Raffaele Pe and Aryeh Nussbaum Cohen.

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CONCERTS October

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ROMA JAZZ FESTIVAL 2023

2 - 26 November 2023 Auditorium Parco della Musica Over the years the festival has seen great performers take to the stage - from Miles Davis to B.B. King, Pharoah Sanders and Jorge Benson – in an attempt to represent the various facets of music. This year too, the programme features both wellknown and storied masters of international jazz and exponents of new urban sounds, with a focus on the new female avant-garde.

FOR MORE DETAILS AND RESERVATIONS, ASK YOUR “LES CLEFS D’OR” CONCIERGE 14

Pirates of the Caribbean: The Curse of the Black Pearl, the musical starring Jack Sparrow and his crew, live on stage on the 6th and 7th at the Auditorium della Conciliazione. On the 7th it is aGilberto Gil’s turn with his Aquele Abraco Tour at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. The founding member of 2Cellos, known as Hauser will be in concert at the Palazzo dello Sport on the 20th.

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EXHIBITIONS

ART APPOINTMENTS

1

ESCHER

31 October - 1 April 2024 Palazzo Bonaparte

The Dutch artist takes us to an impossible imaginary world where art mixes with mathematics, science, physics and design.

This exceptional exhibition in Rome is a major anthology of some 300 works, including the iconic Hand with Reflecting Sphere, Bond of Union, Metamorphosis II, Day and Night, the celebrated Emblemata series, and many other pieces, some previously unseen.

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SEMBRA VIVO!

Until 8 October Palazzo Bonaparte

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For the first time, an exhibition of hyper-realistic sculpture, featuring 43 mega-installations from the greatest contemporary artists, from Maurizio Cattelan to Ron Mueck, George Segal, Carole Feuerman and more. The sculptures are impressive, every detail so realistic it is difficult to distinguish art from life.

INFINITY. L’ARTE CONTEMPORANEA SENZA LIMITI Until 15 October Cloister of Bramante

A narration, a story, an art experience that takes the emblematic works of Michelangelo Pistoletto - from the earliest to the most recent - and embarks on a moving journey into the poetry and the many worlds of one of the masters of contemporary art. Endless ways of making art, and endless ways of interpreting reality.

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4 EXHIBITIONS

FUORI TUTTO

Until 25 February 2024 MAXXI Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo

The collection’s new display speaks of the vitality and plurality of Italian and international art, encompassing painting, sculpture, architecture, photography, video, installation, performance and experimental sound. The exhibition includes pieces by Rosa Barba, Elisabetta Di Maggio, MASBEDO, Jannis Kounellis, Michelangelo Pistoletto, Pedro Reyes and Patrick Tuttofuoco.

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THE TOUCH OF PYGMALION. RUBENS AND SCULPTURE IN ROME 14 November - 18 February 2024 Galleria Borghese

The exhibition explores how the influences of Rubens’ time in Italy in the first decade of the 17th century gained decisive new vigour in subsequent years. The project highlights the artist’s contribution, on the threshold of the Baroque period, to a new conception of the ancient, nature and imitation, turning the spotlight on the newness of his style in his first decade in Rome.

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PHILIPPE HALSMAN. FLASH OF GENIU Until 7 January Museo di Roma in Trastevere

FOR MORE DETAILS AND RESERVATIONS, ASK YOUR “LES CLEFS D’OR” CONCIERGE 18

With more than one hundred images in various formats, both in colour and black and white, and spanning the entire career of one of the most important photographers of the 20th century, is the exhibition of Philippe Halsman. His photographs are the result of his volcanic creativity and the synergies that manifested themselves in his encounters with great and illustrious friends.

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Sant’Agnese in Agone 26

DESIGN

RENAISSANCE AND BAROQUE SPLENDOUR Lesser-known churches to visit in Rome PHOTO Valentina Stefanelli

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CHURCHES

CHURCHES: THE MASTERPIECES OF THE 16TH AND 17TH CENTURY

B

oasting more than nine hundred churches, Rome is the city with the most religious buildings in the world. Besides the four imposing cathedrals, an ideal tour of the magnificent religious buildings of this city could start with the masterpieces of the16th and 17th century.

CHURCH OF SANT’IVO ALLA SAPIENZA The Church of Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza is probably the masterpiece of architect Francesco Borromini (1599-1667) and without a doubt, one of the most beautiful Baroque churches in Europe. It was built in the period 1642-60 within the Palazzo della Sapienza by order of Pope Urban VIII to serve as the chapel of the University of Rome.

The large courtyard in front of the church was already built when Borromini was commissioned to build it and so he designed 28

his complex and elaborate project around it. The interior of the church contrasts with the complex design of the outdoor parts. Its continuous and uniform white walls are illuminated with the light coming in from the lantern over the dome and from the windows, reflecting it and communicating a feeling of intense spirituality.

Unlike traditional domes, the dome of Sant’Ivo is airy and sinuous with alternating convex and concave lines: it is almost as if it has completely lost its typical characteristic of static roof and is instead a continuation of the main part of the building.

SANT’AGNESE IN AGONE The Basilica of Sant’Agnese in Agone was erected in the location of the ancient Stadium of Domitian which in the 8th century was transformed into a place of worship.

This breathtaking church

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TERRAZZA BORROMINI Before leaving the Basilica of Sant’Agnese in Agone, look up to the right. You will see a well-hidden opening built in the drum of the dome. It was built by Pope Innocent X to be able to attend mass directly from his private apartment next to the church, now part of the Eitch Borrromini hotel. You can then end your evening with an aperitif on the Borromini Terrace which offers a breathtaking view of the Eternal City from above.

Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza 29

CHURCHES

San Luigi dei Francesi 30

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CHURCHES

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XX

Sant’Ignazio di Loyola 32

CHURCHES

Sant’Agnese in Agone 33

CHURCHES

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CHURCHES

This page e previous page: Santa Maria del Popolo

underwent complete restoration works in 2004.

The first project of the church in its current state was designed by Girolamo Rainaldi in 1652 in typical Baroque style. The construction of the church was commissioned by Pope Innocent X as his family wanted to build a private chapel which would be part of his family’s palace.

A few years later, the construction of the church was entrusted to the expertise of Francesco Borromini who decided to slightly alter the original project.

One of the most interesting things is his choice to increase the distance be-

tween the two towers as well as constructing a concave façade so that the dome would be more noticeable. The church was finally completed in 1672 thanks to Carlo Rainaldi, son of the architect who started its construction.

The building of Sant’Agnese also includes the Collegio Innocenziano, a wing of the palace located next to the church which is accessible through secret passages and concealed doors. In particular, there is a narrow secret tunnel which leads to the Sacristy of Borromini right at the back of the Church, away from prying eyes.

SAN LUIGI DEI FRANCESI The Church of San Luigi dei Francesi is located in the proximity of Piazza Navona and is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Saint Dionysius, the Areopagite and Saint King Louis IX. The church of San Luigi dei Francesi (Saint Louis of the French) was completed in 1589 thanks to the generosity of Caterina de’ Medici. Inside, the church contains countless masterpieces including various paintings by Domenichino as well as a cycle of paintings by Caravaggio dedicated to Saint Matthew located in the Contarelli Chapel, completed between 1599 35

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CHURCHES

Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza

and 1602. The three paintings are: The Calling of Saint Matthew, The Martyrdom of Saint Matthew and Saint Matthew and the Angel. These paintings came to be immediately known in Rome as the most revolutionary paintings ever painted, thanks to the extreme use of light with strong chiaroscuro effects; Caravaggio’s depiction of sacred themes in a non-canonic manner; the choice to use common Roman people as models and represent them in their everyday environment; and his depiction of historic events with dramatic scenes of violence and terror.

CHURCH OF SANT’IGNAZIO DI LOYOLA The construction of the church of Sant’Ignazio di Loyola started in 1562 with a design by Giovanni da Perugia; it would be used by the Roman College established by Ignatius of Loyola – founder of the Society of Jesus – to train young people for free. The works for the construction of the first building were completed in 1566, but the church immediately proved to be too small for a school that by 1591 had reached two thousand students. It was then demolished with the plan of building a new one. The

construction of the new church started in 1626, thanks to the donation of two hundred thousand scudi by Cardinal Ludovico Ludovisi; the works lasted until 1685 when the building was finally completed and all the funds depleted.

However, the new church was still missing its dome.

The person called to solve this problem was Andrea Pozzo, a Jesuit architect, mathematician and painter who lived between 1642 and 1709. His idea was to paint a fake dome on a canvas, a clever artifice that is still visible today: when observed from a certain point of the central nave, 37

CHURCHES

San Luigi dei Francesi, Caravaggio’s San Matteo e l’angelo in the back

the painting creates the illusion of a real dome, though the illusion gradually vanishes as the observer moves towards the presbytery.

SANTA MARIA DEL POPOLO The Basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo is one of the most significant buildings of the Roman Renaissance and a mustsee monument for all art lovers.

The church was built with the funding of the people of Rome, hence its name. It was altered in the 15th century by Pope Sixtus IV and modified again in the 17th centu38

ry. The Basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo contains artworks of great artists such as Bramante, Sansovino, Pinturicchio, Mino Da Fiesole, Raphael, Bernini and Caravaggio.

Inside, the church has a Latin cross plan with three naves and ribbed vaults according to the sober and proportionate design of Cistercian churches. It also features some beautiful chapels, in particular the Cerasi and the Chigi chapels which house important paintings by Raphael, Caracci and Caravaggio.

Exactly inside the Cerasi Chapel, there are two

masterpieces by Merisi: The Crucifixion of Saint Peter and The Conversion of Saint Paul. The altarpiece, instead, was created by Annibale Caracci and depicts the Assumption of the Virgin. The canvases commissioned to Caravaggio in September 1600 by Cardinal Tiberio Cerasi – who was the treasurer of Pope Clement VIII – are particularly noteworthy for the humanity of the characters represented, not only the two saints: there is no feeling of heroism or transfiguration, but just a normal life event depicted with tragic realism.

Sant’Ignazio di Loyola

A spectacular view of Rome at sunet during the month October 40

DESIGN

ROMAN OTTOBRATA All the most popular sites of this Roman tradition, from fiery sunsets to day trips out of town

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ITINERARY

ROMAN OTTOBRATA ENDLESS WARM DAYS IN THE ETERNAL CITY

R

omans know what Ottobrata is, but not many know its origins; tourists, on the other hand, may have heard about it but do not know what it is.

WHAT IS IT? The origins in this term lie in the weather. The mild temperatures, the light which is still warm and golden, and the spectacular sunsets that embellish the capital during this autumn month.

In short, the Roman Ottobrata is like Rome’s Indian summer.

It has always been the picnics and outings out of town that have made Roman October events famous. This seasonal custom, entirely typical of the capital, also began as the final festival of the grape harvest in the surrounding countryside and this joyful climate accompanied this period of the year until the last century.

The Romans took advantage this favourable period to go to some meadow or park, lay out a tablecloth and spend their time eating, drinking and en42

joying the warm, but not too hot October weather. Today many are rediscovering this jovial and beneficial custom.

PLACES The favourite places of every Roman October are traditionally in the countryside around Ponte Milvio or the areas outside the walls of Porta Pia and Porta San Giovanni, up to the Castelli Romani to explore the historic villas set the green countryside and the delicious foods to savour in the taverns of hidden villages.

CASTELLI ROMANI Castelli Romani are small towns south of Rome, in the Alban Hills area between two volcanic lakes, such as Albano, Ariccia, Marino, Frascati, Genzano, Grottaferrata, Rocca di Papa, Rocca Priora, Monte Porzio Catone, Castel Gandolfo, Nemi and Velletri. Besides the ancient villas, archeological remains, breathtaking views and trails around the two lakes, the Castelli Romani are also

CONCIERGE TIPS Adrian Lazar

HOTEL HASSLER Piazza della Trinità dei Monti, 6 - Rome ph: +39 06 699340 hotelhasslerroma.com Vicus Caprarius Everyone knows the famous Trevi Fountain, less known is the underground passage that stretches beneath the Trevi district. The intricate maze of ancient vestiges & the underground archaeological area of Vicus Caprarius – the City of Water is located in Vicolo del Puttarello 25.

Stadio di Domiziano Visit the underground levels of Piazza Navona and admire the ancient ruins of the first and only masonry athletics stadium in Roman history. Learn more about the Roman Empire and the history of the ancient sports. The entrance is in Via di Tor Sanguigna 3.

Piazza di Spagna 43

Gastel Gandolfo, piazza della Libertà, the beating heart of the historic center (ph. Valentina Stefanelli) 44

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ITINERARY

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2

3

1. Papal Palace at Castel Gandolfo 2. The Monastery, also known as the Greek Abbey of St. Nilus at Grottaferrata 3. Collegiate church of Ariccia 4. View over Castel Gandolfo 5. Ariccia (ph. Valentina Stefanelli)

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5

ITINERARY

Among the winding alleys of Frascati (ph. Valentina Stefanelli) 47

Il mare ed i suoi prodotti, l’Italia, la famiglia, le tradizioni, la buona cucina ed il buon vino.

VIA CICERONE, 61 - ROMA amareristoranteroma@gmail.com tel: +39 06 3265 1956

ITINERARY

Frascati (ph. Valentina Stefanelli)

known for the wholesomeness of their cuisine and the white wine that is produced in the area. Throughout the entire area you will find not only Michelin-starred restaurants like Antonello Colonna’s in Labico but also the famous fraschette, which are characteristic taverns often converted from old wine cellars, where you can enjoy wine, olives, cheese, cold cuts, pork roast, and typical Roman dishes at a reasonable price. During the autumn there are fabulous festivals that are worth visiting in order to taste the best that this area has to offer. The Marino Wine Festival is typically held on the first Sunday of October.

FRASCATI This town is dominated by the 16th century Villa Aldobrandini that towers above one of its main squares. It was first owned by the Colonna family, then the Farnese family, and then the Apostolic Camera and owes its current appearance to Pope Clement VIII who gave it to his nephew, Cardinal Pietro Aldobrandini. In the Italian garden next to the villa there is a beautiful semi-circular nymphaeum with fountains and terracing. Two excellent restaurants, the Zarazà and Cacciani offer typical Roman cuisine, respecting the growing seasons and using the best quality, zero kilometre

ingredients. Visit the Jesuit church and the Cathedral of Saint Peter the Apostle.

GROTTAFERRATA Grottaferrata is one of the most elegant towns outside the city for those who choose to live or holiday there. Surrounded by 15th century walls, it is mainly known for the Abbey of Saint Mary founded in 1004 by a group of Greek monks guided by St. Nilus of Rossano during the Byzantine era. The monastery, also called the Greek Abbey of Saint Nilus, is now the last of the many Byzantine monasteries that were widespread throughout southern Italy and Rome in the Middle Age. 49

ITINERARY

Greek Abbey of St. Nilus at Grottaferrata (ph. Valentina Stefanelli)

NEMI This picturesque village is located at an altitude of 520 metres above sea level and overlooks a volcanic origin lake and the surrounding woods. Houses are perched on a steep cliff and the Museum of Roman Ships is located on the banks of the lake. Palazzo Ruspoli, one of the most significant buildings in Nemi, was built in medieval times by the Counts of Tuscolum who governed over the area. Take a pleasant walk down Corso Vittorio Emanuele and taste some of the strawberries cultivated in the area and used to make fantastic desserts.

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ARICCIA Ariccia is located along the Appian Way on a rocky outcrop overlooking a wooded valley. The Ariccia Bridge was one of the most important engineering works of the 19th century. The Baroque genius Gian Lorenzo Bernini built Piazza della Corte where Palazzo Chigi and the monumental Church of the Assunta, commissioned between 1663 and 1665 by the Chigi family, are located.

The local specialty is the renowned Ariccia porchetta.

The Antico Grottino is a tavern to remember.

CASTEL GANDOLFO Castel Gandolfo is known as one of the most beautiful

villages in Italy. Lake Albano can be glimpsed around street corners, creating truly picturesque scenery. The Pontifical Palace in the main square has been the Pope’s summer residence since 1600. The Castle, owned by the Gandolfi family and then the Savelli family in the middle ages, was transferred to the Apostolic Camera in 1596.

Since that time, many Popes have spent time at Castel Gandolfo, especially during the summer. When the season allows, take a refreshing dip in the lake and stop at one of the many restaurants in town. Two of the best are the ancient Pagnanelli restaurant and the Grottino.

The competition, preceded by the Junior Ryder Cup and practice trials, takes place from 29 September to 1 October 52

SPORT

GOLF GREATNESS IN ROME Italy’s first Ryder Cup, at Marco Simone Golf and Country Club

TEXT Virginia Mammoli

I

n this 2023, it is Europe’s turn to host the long-awaited Ryder Cup, the most important international golf event, with Europe’s 12 best players vs. America’s 12 top players. It is the third largest sporting event in the world after the Olympics and the World Cup. Originating in 1927, the Ryder Cup, held every two years, is hosted alternately by the two continents, but for Europe it has almost always been held in the United Kingdom, with the exception of the 1997 edition in Spain, the 2018 edition in France. The Marco Simone Golf and Country Club just outside Rome was chosen as the challenge course to host from September 25 to October 1 the first Ryder Cup in Italy.

ORIGINATING IN 1927, THE RYDER CUP, HELD EVERY TWO YEARS. IT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT INTERNATIONAL GOLF EVENT. THE THIRD LARGEST SPORTING EVENT IN THE WORLD AFTER THE OLYMPICS AND THE WORLD CUP

A large green expanse overlooking the dome of St. Peter’s, dotted with ponds, trees, and bushes, a Roman villa from the 2nd century A.D. and a castle from the year 1,000, which Roman fashion designer Laura Biagiotti fell in love with at first sight.

It is thanks to her that in the late 1980s, these 150 hectares of Latium countryside became one of Italy’s most exclusive golf courses, which has hosted the last three Italian Open.

As per tradition, the real competition, preceded by the Junior Ryder Cup and practice trials, takes place over the last three days, 29 September to 1 October, and pits the Europeans, led by Britain’s Luke Donald against the U.S., led 53

SPORT

THE BEST EUROPEAN PLAYERS VS THE 12 TOP AMERICAN PLAYERS

by Zach Johnson. Among the players are England’s Tyrrell Hatton and Tommy Fleetwood, making this his third consecutive Ryder Cup; Sweden’s Ludvig Aberg; the very young Austrian Sepp Straka, with already two PGA Tour victories at only 20 years old; and among the Americans, Justin Thomas, Rickie Fowler, Jordan Spieth, and five-time Major champion Brooks Koepka.

For the occasion, the Marco Simone has revamped its course, remodelled to create challenges and excitement for the world’s strongest players, but also 54

to enhance the natural undulating terrain of the landscape.

Needless to say, there are 18 holes, each with its own characteristics, 72 par, and a length of about 7 kilometres.

The first Italian player to compete in the Ryder Cup was Costantino Rocca, a pioneer of Italian golf, who participated in the Ryder Cup in 1993, in 1995, where he scored a hole-inone, and in 1997, when he bested Tiger Woods in the singles match.

While there are 27 cups for the U.S. and 14 for Europe so far, record wins include the 2004 and 2006 Euro-

pean wins by 18.5 to 9.5.

Other historic moments include the time when American Jack Nicklaus, in his first Ryder Cup, sent in a return putt from five feet, only to concede a putt for par from two feet to Tony Jacklin, the most successful English golfer of his generation. Their tie resulted in the first instance of a tie in a Ryder Cup: 16-16, in 1969.

The tournament, which has always kept the tension high as well as the sporting spirit, does not include prize money, but guarantees great fame and honour to those who wield the cup.

ART

Marco Simone Golf and Country Club, in Guidonia 55

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GOURMET TEMPLES OF TASTE

Where to go and which gelato and granita flavours to order

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C I T N E H T U A E H T D E S A B O T A L E G L A N O S A E S N O E H T F O S T N E I INGRED Y T I L A U Q T S E HIGH

G

elato is an entirely Italian tradition.

Its distant origins can be traced to the stories of Alexander the Great and can be found in Ancient Egypt, but the gelato we know and love today finds its roots right here in Italy, 16th-century Florence to be exact. Since then, this creamy dessert has become a passion for all. There are those - especially in the south - who love to wake up and eat breakfast with a delicious gelato pastry (perhaps coffee-flavoured), those who like to snack on one during a lunch break.

Then there are the chil-

ICE CREAM AND GRANITA ARE ALWAYS THE BEST CHOICE FOR A DELICIOUS AND FRESH SNACK. WE SUGGEST SOME OF THE BEST PLACES WHERE YOU CAN TASTE THEM

dren who eat it for an ideal afternoon snack, everyone appreciates it after dinner especially on hot summer evenings. In addition to the classic and timeless flavours, we discover new combinations, born out of creative experimentations.

We suggest some of Rome’s best flavours, inviting you to taste true gelato, based on tradition, passion and seasonal ingredients of the highest quality, without conservatives,

colouring,

artificial flavourings and emulsifiers, capable of satisfying every preference.

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SERATA COREOGRAFI CONTEMPORANEI CHRISTOPHER WHEELDON GOYO MONTERO KRZYSZTOF PASTOR Teatro Costanzi - September 19-24

GEORG FRIEDRICH HÄNDEL

GIULIO CESARE IN EGITTO CONDUCTOR RINALDO ALESSANDRINI DIRECTOR DAMIANO MICHIELETTO Teatro Costanzi - October 13-21

ROSSINI & ROSSINI

CONDUCTOR LOUIS LOHRASEB CHOREOGRAPHER MAURO BIGONZETTI Teatro Costanzi - October 28 - November 4 TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ORCHESTRA, CHORUS AND CORPS DE BALLET operaroma.it

PRIVATE SHAREHOLDERS

FOUNDERS

MAIN SPONSOR

PARTNER

PATRONS

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GIOLITTI

1890, when Giuseppe It all began way back in opened a dairy on and Bernardina Giolitti lk from their own Salita del Grillo, selling mi tions later, Giolitti herd. Today, three genera delicious, simple and still makes the original loved all over the traditional flavours, now Vicario, 40). world (Via degli Uffici del

G E L AT E R I A F A S S I Ever since 1880 Palazzo del Freddo Fassi has been a landmark for anyone seeking a special place to enjoy artis an gelato. It all started with a small ice business, and since then the art of gelato has been handed down and fine tuned. At the weekends you can sign up for a Tasting Tour and discover all the secrets of the production process (Via Principe Eugenio 65/67).

C O M E I L L AT T E Creamy gelato that’s always freshly made, so you can recognise and enjoy the flavour of every individual ingredient, and a balanced mix of sensations that’s instantly satisfying.

At Come il Latte, they work nonstop to offer gelato made on the day, preserving all the quality and goodness (Via Silvio Spaventa, 24/26).

LA CASA D TA Z Z A D E L C A F F È ’ORO

If granita ’s more yo ur thing, to try it at you have Tazza d’o ro, a ston from the e’s throw Pantheon . Founded 1940s as a in the coffee spe cialist, it famous fo b ecame r its profe ssional ro the creati a st ing and on of blen ds which years hav over the e conquer ed the he palates of arts and all, produ cts that h down in h ave gone istory (Via degli Orfa ni, 84).

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Kids Parking Kids Par Kids Parking Kids Parking Kids Parking

Offerta riservata ai bambini dai 4 ai 12 anni

Offerta bambini dai 4&aiDICEMBRE 12 anni OGNI riservata SABATO NEIaiMESI DI OTTOBRE OGNI SABATO NEIORE MESI DI OTTOBRE &4DICEMBRE DALLE ALLEdaiORE Offerta riservata ai12.00 bambini ai18.00 12 anni

12.00DIALLE ORE&18.00 OGNIDALLE SABATOORE NEI MESI OTTOBRE DICEMBRE TARIFFA ORARIA A BAMBINO: €15,00 DALLE ORE 12.00 ALLE ORE 18.00(fino a 3 ore) TARIFFA BAMBINO: €15,00INCLUSO: (fino a 3 ore) TARIFFAORARIA FULL ADAY CON PRANZO €60,00 TARIFFAFULL ORARIA BAMBINO: €15,00 (fino a 3 €60,00 ore) TARIFFA DAYACON PRANZO INCLUSO:

Offerta riservata aiOfferta bambiniriservata dai 4 ai 12aianni bambin

OGNI SABATO NEI OTTOBRE & DICEMBRE TARIFFA FULLMESI DAY CON DI PRANZO INCLUSO: €60,00 OGNI SABATO MESI DI OTTOB Stadio di Domiziano: Via di Tor Sanguigna 3 / PiazzaNEI Navona Stadio di Domiziano: di Tor Sanguigna 3 / Piazza Navona DALLE ORE Via12.00 ALLE 18.00 Per info e prenotazioni: 130 1884ORE info@sf-eventsitaly.com DALLE Stadio di Domiziano:+39 Via di366 Tor Sanguigna 3 // Piazza Navona ORE 12.00 ALLE O Per info e prenotazioni: +39 366 130 1884 / info@sf-eventsitaly.com Per info e prenotazioni: +39 366 130 1884 / info@sf-eventsitaly.com

TARIFFA ORARIA A BAMBINO: €15,00 (finoORARIA a 3 ore)A BAMBINO: €15, TARIFFA TARIFFA FULL DAY CON PRANZO INCLUSO: €60,00

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TA C SANT’EUS

HIO IL CA

FFÈ

e granita is th le spot for a b sa is as m h n u ich Another to coffee wh io, a temple h ac st ce 1938. The u n E si t’ y n Sa nd qualit a s n is io it ad tr ds makes th retained its rabica blen a t es b a, ry it ve n a the and coffee gr café’s use of rs of coffee ve lo r s fo ay d ce f o la ottest a go-to p ent on the h m h es fr re the perfect , 82). t’ Eustachio (Piazza San

GRACCHI

teria in the hi artisan gela cc ra G e th 99 19 Since rdinian founded by a Sa r, te ar qu i at Pr heart of the e of flavours ed a wide rang family, has offer h seasonal and mbinations wit co al in ig or d an ing apple and edients, includ gr in ed rc ou -s ds, and locally d toasted almon an s fig d ie dr , an cinnamon nier, as well as with Grand Mar e at ol m oc ea ch cr rk e da eams, ic of chocolate cr ce oi ch e .

2) tiv 27 us i, exha acch itas (Via dei Gr cakes and gran

F ATA M O R G A N A

LA ROMANA Founded in Rimini in 1947, La Romana has delighted adults and children alike for over 70 years. It is now franchised all over the world, and since 2013, the branch behind Piaz za Barberini offers flavours that are prep ared several times a day from ancient reci pes using excellent ingredients such as Pied mont hazelnuts and Marsala. There’s also a wide range of vegan options (Via Venti Sette mbre, 60).

The founder of Fatamorgana, Maria Agnese, is inspired by flavours from far-flung corners of the world, yet focuses on simple natural ingredients for her minimalist, low-fat and delicately flavoured products. Don’t miss the Cream of Almond Blossom and the Venere Rosa, made with venere rice and rose petals (Piazza degli Zingari, 5).

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TOP PLACES TO SEE IN ROME

Museums, churches and all the attractions that you should not miss in city.

Reservations are recommended in some museums, ask your ‘Les Clefs D’Or’ concierge 65

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MUSEUMS AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES COLOSSEUM

Designed to hold 50,00075,000 spectators coming to see the fights between gladiators and ferocious animals, the Colosseum is the largest amphitheatre from Antiquity, a symbol of Rome and one of the seven wonders of the world.

A water system fed various fountains and allowed for naumachiae, mock naval battles.

Piazza del Colosseo, 1 ph. +39 06 39967700 parcocolosseo.it Closed: January 1, December 25

FORA AND PALATINO

The Arch of Constantine links the Palatine Hill, adding to the houses of Livia and Augustus, and the Forums built along the Via Sacra and beyond the Arch of

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Titus, up towards the Capotiline Hill and the Sacred Largo Argentina area, that is reopened and equipped for disabled people.

At the same time, the emperors paid homage to themselves by building their own squares, known as Fori.

Fori Imperiali | Foro Romano | Palatino: ticket office Piazza della Madonna di Loreto and Via della Salara Vecchia ph. +39 06 39967700 coopculture.it Closed: January 1, December 25

THE BATHS OF CARACALLA

Inaugurated by Caracalla in 216 CE, they extended for 10 hectares, vaunted a sophisticated water system for its tepidarium, calidarium, frigidarium and two gymnasiums, and included a Mithraeum, the god venerated by young soldiers.

Priceless materials stripped from the structure were recycled to build Santa Maria in Trastevere.

Viale delle Terme di Caracalla, 52 ph. +39 06 39967702 coopculture.it Closed: January 1, May 1, December 25

CATACOMBS

These underground cemeteries carved into tuff rock were decorated with Christian symbols and located, for reasons of hygiene, outside the city walls. Beginning in the 2nd century, martyrs, Christians and Jews were all buried in them. The most evocative, near the Appian Way, are the catacombs of Domitilla, Lucilla, Callixtus, St. Sebastian and the Ardeatine.

CIRCO MASSIMO

A portion of the area gives us an idea of the original purpose of this stadium, 120 metres wide and 620 metres long, likely the largest structure ever built to stage spectacles and able to seat 250,000 people. It was used for horse races and a market.

This is also where the Rape of the Sabine Women occurred.

Today, it is a popular place for hosting large events.

Via del Circo Massimo ph. +39 06 0608 sovraintendenzaroma.it Closed: January 1, May 1 (variable), December 25

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CASTELSANT’ANGELO

The mausoleum of Emperor Hadrian, it later became Castel Sant’Angelo. Thanks to its secret passage connecting it to the Vatican, it was transformed into a fortress and refuge for popes. It was later a prison, barracks and museum. Inside, there are frescoes by Pinturicchio, while the bronze angel was made by Peter Anton von Verschaffelt in 1753.

Lungotevere Castello, 50 ph. +39 06 6819111 castelsantangelo.beniculturali.it Closed: January 1, May 1, December 25

VATICAN MUSEUMS AND SISTINE CHAPEL

This collection of buildings houses one of the most impressive and visited art museums in the world.

Another highlight, in addition to the Gallery of Geographical Maps, is the Pinacoteca, which conserves artworks, including pieces by Leonardo, Giotto, Titian, Reni, Caravaggio and Raphael. The latter’s

masterpiece, however, can be found in Julius II’s apartments, today known as the Raphael Rooms.

Near there is the Pauline Chapel, which conserves frescoes by Michelangelo, and the Sistine Chapel.

The walls were frescoed

by Botticelli, Perugino and Signorelli, while the ceiling is Michelangelo’s triumphant. On the wall behind the altar, Last Judgement.

Viale Vaticano ph. +39 06 69884676 museivaticani.va Closed: Sunday (except for the last of the month), January 1, February 11, March 19, April 22, May 1, June 29, August 14 and 15, November 1, December 25 and 26

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Colosseum, a symbol of Rome and one of the seven wonders of the world 68

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GALLERIA BORGHESE

The gallery, adjacent to the villa that dominates the Pincian Hill, is considered the most important museum in the world for its collection of artworks by Bernini and Caravaggio, including the former’s Apollo and Daphne, the latter’s Young Sick Bacchus and The Deposition by Raphael.

Piazzale Scipione Borghese, 5 ph. + 39 06 8413979 galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it Closed: January 1, December 25

MUSEI CAPITOLINI

Housed inside Palazzo dei Conservatori and Palazzo Nuovo, in the piazza redesigned by Mi-

chelangelo, the museums conserve artworks like the Capitoline Wolf, the original statue of Marcus Aurelius, the Dying Gaul, Bernini’s Medusa and The Fortune Teller by Caravaggio. A section of the museum is now in the Centrale Montemartini.

Piazza del Campidoglio, 1 ph. +39 06 0608 museicapitolini.org Closed: January 1, May 1, December 25

GNAM – GALLERIA NAZIONALE DI ARTE MODERNA

Designed by architect, Cesare Bazzani, the National Gallery houses Italian masterpieces from the 19th and 20th centuries. Divided into two sections, the exhibition space was built for the International Exhibition and showcases works by the Macchiaioli, Futurists (Boccioni and Balla), Chini, Modigliani, Guttuso and De Chirico, as well as Klimt, Monet, Cézanne, Mondrian, Kandinsky.

Viale delle Belle Arti, 131 ph. +39 06 32298221 lagallerianazionale.com Closed: Monday, January 1, December 25

IL VITTORIANO

Named the Vittorio Emanuele II Monument at its inauguration, it is also known as the Altare della Patria (Altar

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of the Fatherland) and was built to commemorate Italian liberation. Built like a modern Roman Forum, it houses the Museum of the Risorgimento and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.

Today, it houses temporary exhibitions and features a large terrace with a view of the city.

Il Vittoriano: Via di San Pietro in Carcere ph. +39 06 8715111 ilvittoriano.com Museo centrale del Risorgimento al Vittoriano: Closed Easter, week of August 15, December 25 ; Timetable of temporary exhibitions on the site

PALAZZO BARBERINI AND GALLERIA CORSINI

The galleries housed here showcase artworks including gems like Raphael’s Portrait of a Young Woman and Holbein’s Portrait of Henry VIII, as well as pieces by Van Dyck, Tintoretto and Titian. Built by Maderno for Pope Urban VIII, features a salone with Barberini Power by Pietro da Cortona.

Palazzo Barberini: Via delle Quattro Fontane, 13 ph. +39 06 4814591 Closed: Monday, January 1, December 25 Galleria Corsini: Via della Lungara, 10 ph. +39 06 68802323 Closed: Tuesday , January 1, December 25 barberinicorsini.org

SCUDERIE DEL QUIRINALE

Up until 1938 it was used as a stables and carriage house, after which it housed the Carriage Museum. Built on top of the ruins of the Roman temple of Serapis, the building boasts a view from the highest point of Rome’s historic hills.

The Scuderie was restored by the international architect Gae Aulenti for the Jubilee in 2000 and is today one of the main sites for large exhibitions.

Via XXIV Maggio, 16 scuderiequirinale.it Timetable of temporary exhibitions on the site.

GALLERIA DORIA PAMPHILJ

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj is the biggest palace that still serves as a residence and is home to important private art collections. The gallery features

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MUSEO DELL’ARA PACIS

works by Titian, Raphael, Caravaggio, Parmigianino, Lorrain, Sebastiano del Piombo, Bronzino and Bernini, as well as Vélazquez’s most famous portrait. The palace apartments and private chapel can be accessed via the gallery.

Via del Corso, 305 ph. +39 06 6797323 doriapamphilj.it Closed: third Wednesday of the month, January 1, Easter, December 25

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MAAXI

The museum features art from the 21st century and was built on the site of an old army barracks, the Caserma Montello, near the Auditorium Parco della Musica by Renzo Piano.

The interior space is dedicated to international avant-garde movements and the first gallery of Contemporary Architecture.

Works on display include pieces by Boetti, De Dominicis, Kapoor, Richter and Cattelan.

Via Guido Reni, 4A ph. +39 06 3201954 maxxi.art Closed: Monday, May 1, December 25

Intended to celebrate peace in Spain and Gaul, the Ara Pacis was consecrated in 9 BCE between via Flaminia and the Mausoleum of Augustus. Decorated with the achievements of Emperor Augustus and portraits of the Giulio-Claudia gens, it has been enclosed in a protective building made of steel and marble designed by Meier since 2006.

Lungotevere in Augusta (corner via Tomacelli) ph. +39 06 0608 arapacis.it Closed: January 1, May 1, December 25

QUIRINALE

The hill, also called Cavallo (horse) because of the statues of the Dioscuri found in the square, has always been the home of powerful people. First the popes from Gregory III to Pius IX, and then Napoleon. It was also the king’s home and finally the residence of the President of the Republic. The majestic walls of the palace

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preserve beautiful tapestries, antique clocks and porcelain, as well as the beautiful elliptical by Mascarino and the staircase of Honour.

Piazza del Quirinale ph. +39 06 3996 7557 palazzo.quirinale.it

MONUMENTS FONTANA DI TREVI

A cross between Baroque and Neoclassicism, the largest fountain in Rome reflects the story of the Augustus-era Aqua Virgo.

It was rebuilt multiple times in Antiquity and enlarged by Bernini but finished only in the late 18th century. Traditional says that if visitors to throw a coin into the fountain, they will return to the city one day.

Piazza di Trevi

SCALINATA TRINITÀ DEI MONTI

Imposing and scenic, its shape narrowing and widening as it climbs, it connects the Church of Trinità dei Monti to piazza di Spagna.

After centuries of development, the stairway was built in 1726 based on a design by the architect Francesco De Sanctis.

Its beauty is exalted in the spring, when the flowers are in bloom.

Piazza di Spagna

COLONNA TRAIANA

Ancient Roman at its finest, it is the first coclide column, erected in 113 to celebrate the victory over Dacia (today Romania), with scenes from the war depicted across a spiral, chronological frieze.

Forty metres tall, it conserves the ashes of Trajan and is located in what was Trajan’s Forum. Sixtus V replaced the statue at the top with one of St. Peter.

Via dei Fori Imperiali

TEATRO MARCELLO

Begun by Caesar and located between the Tiber and the Capitoline Hill, it was completed and enlarged by Augustus. In the Middle Ages, it was used for houses and workshops. Restored in the 1920s, it is one of the few and oldest theatres remaining, and over the centuries, it has been used as a model for theatres and amphitheatres.

Via del Teatro di Marcello

COLONNA DI MARCO AURELIO

It’s located opposite Palazzo Chigi, in the exact spot where it was erected by Commodus in 190 to celebrate the victories of his father Marcus

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The emperors paid homage to themselves by building their own squares, known as Fori

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priceless relics and interesting tombs, there are many masterpieces inside St. Peter’s, including the Pietà, sculpted and signed by young Michelangelo, and the lavish canopy by Bernini. The bronze statue of the saint is

by Arnolfo di Cambio, while the towering round dome is

by Michelangelo, who was inspired by Brunelleschi’s dome in Florence.

Piazza San Pietro vatican.va Aurelius over the Germanic people. Forty metres tall, the frieze winds for 110 metres and was inspired by Trajan’s Column. In 1589, Sixtus V replaced the Roman statue on top with an effigy of St. Paul.

Piazza Colonna

rimony. Erected out in 18 BCE and 36 metres tall, it was covered in marble and inspired by the Pyramids of Giza.

Via Raffaele Persichetti

With its three arches, it is the largest triumphal arch in Rome and symbolically inaugurates via dei Fori. The Senate dedicated it to Emperor Constantine in 315. Recent studies have dated it to the era of Hadrian, however. The decorations show a variety of styles, from classical to medieval: a veritable open-air “museum”.

Via di San Gregorio

BASILICA DI SAN PIETRO IN VATICANO

ARCO DI COSTANTINO

PYRAMID OF CAIUS CESTIUS

Gaius Cestius wrote in his will that the tomb must be built in only 330 days, lest his heirs be excluded from his rich pat-

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CHURCHES

St. Peter’s Basilica is the most fascinating place in the world. In addition to

ARCIBASILICA DI SAN GIOVANNI IN LATERANO

This is the city’s cathedral and the first of the four papal basilicas. Built by Constantine following the First Council of Nicaea in 325, this is where Pope Boniface VIII announced the first Jubilee in 1300. The Constantine-era mosaics, Cosmatesque floor and ciborium remain, while the incredible “rooms of light” by Borromini can still be seen today.

Piazza di S. Giovanni in Laterano, 4 vatican.va

BASILICA DI SAN PAOLO FUORI LE MURA

This was the cemetery where St. Paul was buried. The church, built by Constantine, is one of the four papal basilicas, the second largest after St. Peter’s and also called Ostiense.

Vaunting an imposing colon-

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nade, it was destroyed by a fire and rebuilt as it was. The ciborium by Arnolfo di Cambio is priceless, while the mosaic portraits of all the popes is a rare masterpiece.

Piazzale San Paolo, 1 basilicasanpaolo.org

BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA MAGGIORE

The church, one of the four papal basilicas, maintains its original early-Christian structure and was built in the 4th century on the spot where snow is said to have fallen in the summer (commemorated every August 5). Inside also to the oldest Nativity, by Arnolfo di Cambio.

Piazza di S. Maria Maggiore, 42 vatican.va

PANTHEON BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA AD MARTYRES

Dedicated to all the gods by general Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa, it was later rebuilt

by Emperor Hadrian. It is almost a perfect sphere, 43 metres in diameter and vaunting a concrete dome with an oculus.

In addition to Raphael, Annibale Carracci, Perin del Vaga, Margherita di Savoia and kings Umberto I and Vittorio Emanuele II are all buried here.

Piazza della Rotonda pantheonroma.com Closed: January 1, May 1, December 25

BASILICA DEI SANTI COSMA E DAMIANO

The basilica is of the first churches built atop ancient buildings, in this case the Forum of Vespasian and the Temple of Romulus, both still visible.

The apse contains a 6th-century mosaic depicting Saints Peter and Paul Presenting Cosmas, Damian, Theodorus, and Pope Felix IV to Christ. The 18th-century Nativity, which sets the scene in Rome, is worth a look.

Via dei Fori Imperiali, 1 cosmadamiano.com

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from the Baths of Diocletian, this church is where official state ceremonies are held. It was completed by Giacomo del Duca and restored by Luigi Vanvitelli. Amongst the works of art conserved here, a modern Igor Mitoraj and a sundial built for the Jubilee.

Piazza della Repubblica santamariadegliangeliroma.it Closed on Saturdays

BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA DEL POPOLO BASILICA DI SAN CLEMENTE

One church atop another between Esquiline and Caelian hills: the first was transformed from an earlier mithraeum built on top of Roman houses. The second (4th century), conserves frescoes dedicated to St. Alexius.

In the upper basilica (12th century), frescoes by Masolino dedicated to St. Catherine of Alexandria.

Via Labicana, 95 basilicasanclemente.com

BASILICA DI SAN PIETRO IN VINCOLI

Nothing remains of the 5th century church, the Baths of Titus and the Neronian domus.

Julius II is buried here, whose tomb was designed by Michelangelo and vaunts his imposing Moses. According to tradition, the church conserves some of the chains that bound St. Peter in the nearby Mamertine Prison, the oldest in Rome.

Piazza di San Pietro in Vicoli

BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA DEGLI ANGELI E DEI MARTIRI

Built by Michelangelo, who recovered the building without destroying the Frigidarium

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Built in 1099 with funds offered by the community (popolo in Italian, inspiring the church’s name), it was altered by Maderno, Raphael, Bramante and Bernini, and is decorated with masterpieces like the Crucifixion of St. Peter and the Conversion of St. Paul by Caravaggio in the transept. The Chigi Chapel is splendid, designed by Raphael and restored by Bernini.

Piazza del Popolo, 12 smariadelpopolo.com

BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA IN TRASTEVERE

It is the oldest church dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

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It is said that the church was built where oil miraculously erupted from the ground.

Rebuilt in the 12th century with materials taken from the Baths of Caracalla, it conserves a triumph of 13th-century mosaics, many of which are by Pietro Cavallini, as well as the historic Madonna Theotókos.

Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere

CHIESA DEL GESÙ

It is perhaps the first church built during the Counter-Reformation and was a model for all those that came later.

Vaunting a single nave and a barrel vault, the church has a large side pulpit and a central altar. Desired by Ignatius of Loyola (with his breathtaking revolving altarpiece), it is also the mother church of the

Society of Jesus.

Via degli Astalli, 16 chiesadelgesu.org

CHIESA DI SAN LUIGI DEI FRANCESI

The church was completed in 1587 thanks to Catherine de’ Medici. The French church in Rome is famous for its paintings by Caravaggio, in the Contarelli Chapel, dedicated to St. Matthew with The Calling, The Inspiration and The Martyrdom.

The church also conserves frescoes by Domenichino and a copy of Raphael’s Saint Cecilia by Guido Reni.

Piazza di S. Luigi de’ Francesi saintlouis-rome.net

CHIESA DI SAN PIETRO IN MONTORIO

It is famous for the Tempietto designed by Bramante. Legend says that St. Peter was martyred here, and Beatrice Cenci has been buried here since her execution in 1599. The Tempietto was commissioned by the Spanish king Ferdinand II of Aragon in the early 16th century to dissolve a vow. Today, the former convent houses the Royal Spanish Academy.

Piazza S. Pietro in Mortorio, 2 sanpietroinmontorio.it

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A detail of the Sistine Chapel, painted by Michelangelo

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in the 17th century by Pietro da Cortona. In the Chigi Chapel designed by Michelangelo, there are paintings by Raphael. The adjacent former convent conserves the Bramante cloister (an exhibition site today); the dome was added in 1524.

Arco della Pace, 5

CHIESA DELLA SANTISSIMA TRINITÀ DEI MONTI CHIESA DI SANT’AGNESE IN AGONE

Built atop the Stadium of Domitian, the church is a masterpiece of Baroque architecture, replete with optical illusions. Built according to a Greek-cross plan, it was redesigned by Borromini, who created a concave façade and separated the two bell towers, making it appear as if

it were larger. Today, it is also an elegant venue for sacred music concerts.

Piazza Navona corner Via S.Maria dell’Anima, 30/A santagneseinagone.org

CHIESA DI SANTA MARIA DELLA PACE

Commissioned Sixtus IV following the Pazzi Conspiracy in the hope for a period of peace, the church was altered

Overlooking the homonymous staircase by Domenico Fontana, the church vaunts a façade with two bell.

Its style is between Baroque and Rococo. Inside frescoes

by Daniela da Volterra, including a portrait of Michelangelo and Giovan Battista Naldini.

In front of the church stands an obelisk that was in the Gardens of Sallust.

Piazza della Trinità dei Monti, 3

GARDENS AND PARKS Villa Ada Savoia on via Salaria is one of the largest parks in Rome, while one of the most beautiful parks is the Villa Torlonia in Nomentano whith lakes and grottos, ex residence of Mussolini.

Located in near the ancient Appian Way, the Aqueduct Park. The Rose Garden, at the base of the Palatine hill, is a must-see in the spring, while the Villa Borghese is a great classic.

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PALACES Many palaces are still inhabited by the same families who built them centuries ago, while others have become museums, embassies, government offices. But all of them are tied to the fortunes of popes who rebuilt the city beginning in the 15th century.

From the Visconti to the Orsini, the Corsini to the Colonna to the Borgia, Piccolomini, Della Rovere, Farnese, Medici, Carafa, Borghese, Barberini, Pamphilj, Chigi and Rospigliosi, each family left an enduring mark on the city. There’s Palazzo Doria Pamphilj on the busy via del Corso, decorated in the Baroque style and vaunting loggias and courtyards elegantly frescoed. Palazzo Spada in piazza Capodiferro

is also impressive. Cardinal Bernardino commissioned its construction by Borromini, the man behind the famous Galleria Prospettica. Since 1927, the building has housed the Council of State. Palazzo Farnese is nearby, in the homonymous piazza decorated with two Egyptian, granite tubs from the Baths of Caracalla. The palazzo, granted to France in 1939 for 99 years, it now serves as the French embassy and is open to the public on July 14. Palazzo Chigi in piazza Colonna was instead intended as a place to host elite parties. Bought by the Chigi family in the mid-17th century, it became the seat of the Austrian embassy in 1917, followed by the headquarters of the Ministry of the Colonies under Mussolini, then the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and, lastly, the Council of Ministers

since 1961. The nearby Palazzo Montecitorio has been the seat of the Chamber of Deputies since 1870. Palazzo Madama is seat of the Italian Senate since 1871, it was the Medici’s Roman residence until Cardinal Ferdinando bought Villa Medici on the Pincian Hill.

The villa is currently home to the French Academy in Rome. Palazzo del Quirinale was a papal residence and since 1946 it has been the official residence of the President of the Italian Republic. The Versailles-style 18th-century Palazzo Colonna is nearby, in piazza Santi Apostoli. Assigned to the university by Pope Eugene IV, the Renaissance Palazzo della Sapienza was later modified by Francesco Borromini, who added the Church of Sant’Ivo. The building houses the State Archives today.

83

TOP PLACES

Built at the behest of Cardinal Scipione Borghese, Villa Borghese is one of the city’s largest parks 84

TOP PLACES

85

(ph. Valentina Stefanelli) 86

FOOD EXPERIENCES

The best restaurants in Rome.

Reservation recommended, the ‘Les Clefs D’Or’ concierge is at your service

87

RESTAURANTS

E M O R N I G N I DIN L A N O I T I D A R FROM T E N I S I U C N A ROM N O I S U F T E M R TO GOU G N I N I D E N I F AND

88

RESTAURANTS

ALLEGRÌO Via Vittorio Veneto, 114 ph. +39 06 45543423 allegrio.com

AMARE Via Cicerone, 61 ph. +39 06 32651956 amareristoranteroma.com

CHORUS Via della Conciliazione, 4 ph. +39 06 68892774 choruscafe.it

The visual and emotional experience of Allegrìo is complemented by food that celebrates Italy and its traditions. It begins in the morning with breakfast, and continues through business lunches and aperitifs to dinner and beyond, with a fascinating after-dinner drinks list. Executive chef Daniele Creti offers a menu that ranges from the classics of Roman cuisine to more contemporary dishes, alongside the specialities of pizza masters Ivano Veccia and Peppe Aiello.

Fausto Milillo and Sergio Galletti take care of guests at Amare, an elegant restaurant with a fabulous terrace overlooking Piazza Cola di Rienzo. Here the menu is decided by the sea, and the beautifully executed and cooked dishes are paired with an excellent list of wines, gins and spirits. The atmosphere is sophisticated and informal, making this the ideal place to relax and enjoy the food, always fresh and superb quality.

The outstanding thing about Chorus is the innovative cooking of chef Arcangelo Dandini, who showcases high-quality ingredients and impeccable presentation. A culinary experience to remember, made even more special by the creative ideas of mixology maestro Massimo D’Addezio.

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RESTAURANTS

EL PORTENO GOURMET ROMA Via dell’Umiltà, 36 ph. +39 06 83393401 elporteno.it

FINGER’S ROMA Via Francesco Carrara, 12/15 ph. +39 06 3234453 fingersrestaurants.com

IMÀGO Piazza Trinità dei Monti, 6 ph. +39 06 69934726 hotelhasslerroma.com

A temple of good taste, flavours and decor, a genuine piece of Argentina a stone’s throw from the Trevi Fountain. This is what you experience when you step into El Porteño Gourmet, a landmark for excellent Argentinian food in the form of an elegant, sophisticated space just waiting to be discovered.

A luxury Japanese restaurant offering a fabulous culinary experience, thanks to the fusion creations of chef Roberto Okabe. Superb quality, excellent service and a beautiful setting, with generous sofa seating and soft lights creating a delicate, evanescent Japanese mood for a new eastern-style Dolce Vita. To round off the evening, Finger’s Roma has a spacious lounge area devoted to mixology, where you can sample innovative cocktails.

Imàgo - image and magic - summarises in just one word the philosophy behind the restaurant at the Hassler in Rome: a location where the magnificent view of the Eternal City and the flavours come together to create a unique culinary experience. Andrea Antonini has since 2018 been Executive Chef, developing a vision that puts Italian and local recipes front and centre, deconstructing and reconstructing them with exquisite technique and creative flair.

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RESTAURANTS

ORMA Via Boncompagni 31/33 ph. +39 06 8543182 ormaroma.it

OSTERIA QUARANTAQUATTRO Via Aureliana, 44 ph. +39 06 42013318 osteriaquarantaquattro.com

TULLIO Via San Nicola da Tolentino, 26 ph. +39 06 4745560 tullioristorante.it

A fine-dining restaurant with an international outlook in the historic Ludovisi neighbourhood. Orma’s architecture is visually stunning, and the food ranges from fine dining, with a chef ’s table seating four, to the formula lunch at the bistro and a cocktail bar on the terrace for hot summer nights. Ingredients are brought straight from the Orto di Orma in the Lazio countryside.

In the historic centre of Rome, there’s a place that interweaves traditional cooking with modern touches for an unforgettable dining experience. It’s the perfect setting for dinner with friends, a business lunch or a romantic evening. The menu combines mediterranean cuisine with an ongoing quest for new combinations, and the result is a triumph of flavour and tradition. Wines come in a broad range of aromas and styles for a pleasant and lasting memory.

Not far from Piazza Barberini and Via Veneto, Tullio has been run by the same family since 1950. It all began with a small grocery shop, and has become a landmark in the city. In this informal, convivial place you can sample typical Florentine dishes (the owners are originally from Tuscany) and seasonal specialities, accompanied by a superb range of wines.

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RESTAURANTS

MICHELIN STARRED RESTAURANTS ACQUOLINA** Via del Vantaggio, 14 ph +39 06 3201590 acquolinaristorante.it ALL’ORO* Via Giuseppe Pisanelli, 25 ph +39 06 97996907 | ristorantealloro.it AROMA* Via Labicana, 125 ph +39 06 97615109 manfredihotels.com ENOTECA LA TORRE** Lungotevere delle Armi, 22 ph. +39 06 45668304 villalaetitia.enotecalatorre. group IMÀGO* Piazza Trinità dei Monti, 6 ph. +39 06 69934726 hotelhasslerroma.com

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IL PAGLIACCIO** Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 129A ph +39 06 68809595 ristoranteilpagliaccio.com

BIVIUM

LA PERGOLA*** Via Alberto Cadlolo, 101 ph +39 06 35092152 romecavalieri.com

sixsenses.com

LA TERRAZZA* Via Ludovisi, 49 ph. +39 06 47812752 dorchestercollection.com PIPERO* Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 246/248/250 ph. +39 06 68139022 piperoroma.it

HOTEL RESTAURANTS & BARS ANIMA Salita di San Nicola da Tolentino, 14 ph. +39 06 45249009 animaristoranteroma.it

RESTAURANT-CAFÉ-BAR Piazza di San Marcello ph. +39 06 86814000

BRUNELLO BAR AND RESTAURANT Via Vittorio Veneto, 70A ph. +39 06 06421111

rome.baglionihotels.com CAFÈ ROMAN0 Via Borgognona, 4M ph. +39 06 69981500

collezione.starhotels.com COGNAC LOUNGE Via di San Basilio, 15 ph. + 39 06 4229001 alephrome.com

GIANO RESTAURANT Via Liguria, 28 ph. +39 06 894121

gianorestaurant.com

RESTAURANTS

INEO Piazza della Repubblica, 46 ph. +39 06 48938061 ineorestaurant.com J.K. CAFÈ Via di Monte d’Oro, 30 ph +39 06 982634 jkroma.com LE JARDIN DE RUSSIE Via del Babuino, 9 ph +39 06 32888870 roccofortehotels.com LUMEN COCKTAILS & CUISINE Via Vittorio Emanuele Orlando, 3 ph +39 06 47092740 marriott.it MOSAICO Via Sistina, 69 ph. + 39 06 97793712 roccofortehotels.com ORVM Via Vittorio Veneto, 125 ph. + 39 06 47081 marriott.com

RISTORANTE CADORIN & LOUNGE BAR Via Vittorio Veneto, 70 ph. + 39 06 47871 millenniumhotels.com RISTORANTE IL VIZIO Piazza Barberini, 23 ph. + 39 06 488933288 ristoranteilvizio.it SAN BAYLON RISTORANTE & COCKTAIL BAR Via di Ripetta, 232 ph. + 39 06 3222381 sanbaylon.com SCARPETTA NYC Via Vittorio Veneto, 60 ph. + 39 06 42010788 scarpettarestaurants.com SETTIMO ROMAN CUISINE & TERRACE Via Lombardia, 47 ph. + 39 06 478021 settimoristorante.it

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INFORMATIONS

INFORMATION

GETTING AROUND IN ROME AND THE SURROUNDING AREA Everything you need to know to move in the city and further afield

TAXI E UBER

to register with operators and

register and activate the ser-

download the Car Sharing

vice. To hire bikes or scooters,

Roma app. The fleets of vehi-

choose one of the three op-

cles include hybrid and elec-

erators Lime, Dott and Bird

tric options.

(until 2026). They can also be booked via the Uber app.

Rome’s taxis can be booked by calling +39 06 0609, Free Now app or you can catch one at the taxi stand.

Starting price from 6:00 to 22:00 on weekdays: €3,00.

Starting price from 6:00 to 22:00, weekends and holidays: €5,00.

Starting price at night from 22:00 to 6:00: €7,00.

Fixed rate from Rome city center to Fiumicino airport: €50,00.

Fixed rate from Rome city center to Ciampino airport: €31,00.

Rome is also covered by Uber service with cars bookable through the Uber app.

The

CAR SHARING simple,

sustainable

shared vehicle solution. To access the service you need

94

CITY BIKE AND SCOOTERS

Rome boasts a total of 379 bus

BUS

In Rome it’s quick and easy

lines (including 29 night bus-

to hire a shared bicycle or

es). The night buses replace

scooter: just choose an oper-

the metro when it’s closed,

ator, download the app and

and are essential for getting

follow the instructions to

around the city after midnight.

Urban lines (U) operate from 5:00 or 6:30, and the service ends at midnight. Night buses (N): operate when the metro is closed, between 00:00 and 5:00 or 6:00. Bus tickets (like

INFORMATIONS

DISTANCE FROM ROME TO: CAPALBIO 130 KM CAPRI 270 KM CIAMPINO 17 KM FIRENZE 280 KM FIUMICINO 30 KM FREGENE 40 KM NAPOLI 225 KM PORTO ERCOLE 150 KM SABAUDIA 95 KM SPERLONGA 150 KM

VATICAN CITY FREGENE

SPERLONGA SABAUDIA

(Pantano-San Giovanni), and trains run at the weekends too.

shops or newspaper kiosks,

From Sunday to Thursday, the

or on the ATAC ROMA app. A

first train is at 5:30 and the last

standard ticket is valid for 100

at 23:30; on Friday and Satur-

minutes from stamping, and

day the first is at 5:30 and the

covers one journey on ATAC

last at 1:30. In August 2023, line

public transport. The price

A is partially closed for refur-

is € 1.50. There are also day

bishment.

and other options.

AIRPORTS

Fiumicino international airport (IATA code FCO) is the largest of Rome’s airports. It is located 32 kilometres from the capital, and connected to

TRAIN

Rome has 71 railway stations.

The main one is Roma Termini in the city centre, Italy’s most important railway hub.

The second-largest in terms

METRO

FROSINONE LATINA

at metro stations, tobacco

(€12.50), 3-day tickets (€18.00)

ROMA

FIUMICINO

metro tickets) can be bought

tickets (€ 7.00), 2-day tickets

RIETI

VITERBO

of passenger numbers is Roma

Roma Termini by the Leonardo Express train and numerous shuttle bus services.

Ciampino airport is mainly used by low-cost airlines, and is 17 kilometres from the centre.

Tiburtina. Both are served by

The metro is an alternative way

high-speed connections to the

to move around the city. There

main Italian destinations. To

are 4 lines: A (Anagnina-Battis-

reach the centre of Rome from

tini), B (Laurentina-Rebibbia),

Tiburtina, take the blue metro

B1 (Laurentina-Jonio) and C

line B and get off at Colosseum.

95

HOTELS

CONCIERGE ‘LES CLEFS D’OR’

HOTELS

HOTEL DE RUSSIE Via del Babbuino, 9 ph. +39 06 328881 roccofortehotels.com

ALEPH ROME HOTEL, CURIO COLLECTION BY HILTON Via di S. Basilio, 15 ph. +39 06 422 9001 hilton.com

HOTEL DE LA VILLE

ANANTARA PALAZZO NAIADI ROME HOTEL Piazza della Repubblica, 48-49 ph. +39 06 489 381 anantara.com

Via Sistina, 69 ph. +39 06 977 931 roccofortehotels.com HOTEL D’INGHILTERRA ROMA STARHOTELS COLLEZIONE Via Bocca di Leone, 14 ph. +39 06 699811

BAGLIONI HOTEL REGINA Via Vittorio Veneto, 72 ph. +39 06 421111 rome.baglionihotels.com

collezione.starhotels.com

BULGARI HOTEL ROMA Piazza Augusto Imperatore, 10 ph. +39 06 36080400 www.bulgarihotels.com

ph. +39 06 699340

HOTEL HASSLER Piazza Trinita dei Monti, 6 hotelhasslerroma.com

INTERCONTINENTAL ROME AMBASCIATORI PALACE GRAND HOTEL PALACE Via Vittorio Veneto, 62 Via Vittorio Veneto, 70 ph. +39 06 47493 ph. +39 06 47871 ihg.com millenniumhotels.com

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J.K.PLACE ROMA Via di Monte d’Oro, 30 ph. +39 06 982 634 jkroma.com PALAZZO MANFREDI Via Labicana, 125 ph. +39 06 77591380ù manfredihotels.com PALAZZO RIPETTA Via di Ripetta, 231 ph. +39 06 3231144 palazzoripetta.com ROME CAVALIERI, A WALDORF ASTORIA HOTELS Via Alberto Cadlolo 101 ph. +39 06 35091 romecavalieri.com SINA BERNINI BRISTOL, AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION Piazza Barberini, 23 ph. +39 06 488931 sinahotels.com

HOTELS

SIX SENSES ROME Piazza di San Marcello ph. +39 06 86814000 sixsenses.com SOFITEL ROMA VILLA BORGHESE Via Lombardia, 47 ph. +39 06 478021 sofitelrome.com THE ROME EDITION Salita di S. Nicola da Tolentino, 14 ph. +39 06 45249000 marriott.com THE ST. REGIS ROME Via Vittorio Emanuele Orlando, 3 ph. +39 06 47091 marriott.com THE WESTIN EXCELSIOR ROMA Via Vittorio Veneto, 125 ph. +39 06 47081 marriott.com

W ROME Via Liguria, 26/36 ph. +39 06 894121 marriott.com

FIUME HOTEL Via Brescia, 6 ph. +39 06 8543000 hotelfiume-roma.com HOTEL MASCAGNI Via Vittorio Emanuele Orlando, 90 ph. +39 06 48904040 mascagnicollection.com HOTEL OXFORD Via Boncompagni, 89 ph. +39 06 420 3601 hoteloxford.com THE REGENCY Via Romagna, 42 ph. +39 06 9468 2000 theregencyrome.it

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