Florence Concierge n. 244

OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF THE TUSCAN ASSOCIATION OF HOTEL CONCIERGES “LES CLEFS D’OR“

FLORENCE CONCIERGE

USEFUL CITY INFORMATION

n.244

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march | april 2023

ART AND EVENTS \ SECRET GARDENS FIESOLE TOUR \ UNMISSABLE SPRING DISHES TOP ATTRACTIONS \ RESTAURANTS & CAFES GUIDE

INDEX

N.244

march / april 2023

14 Events: dates for your diary 19 Art appointments 23 Fashions tips: the must-have items 30 The Concierge Antonio Pagano’s advices 33 The recipe of tagliolini from Ristorante Frescobaldi 34 The most beautiful secret gardens 46 The must-see churches 58 Fiesole: what to do and where to eat 68 Reaching for the stars at Palazzo Strozzi 76 Giacometti and Fontana in Florence 80 Eleonora di Toledo at Palazzo Pitti 86 Spring dishes from popular restaurants

ART diary 17

EVENTS diary 13

ITINERARY gardens 34

INDEX march / april 2023

N.244 TOP PLACES 95 Museums 104 Churches 110 Top Attractions 112 Squares & Towers 113 Gardens & Parks 116 Medici Villas 120 Markets 122 Restaurants 150 Cafe & Aperitif 156 Information travelling 158 Celebrations timetable 159 Consulates in Florence 160 Hotels 162 Map

ITINERARY churches 46

ART Eleonora di Toledo 80

Un diamante per la vita Via Porta Rossa 95/r, Firenze 50123, Italy | +39 055 9869941 | I-VII 11:00–19:00

bi-monthly magazine Official magazine of the Tuscan Association of Hotel concierges “Les Clefs d’Or” www.florence-concierge.it PRESIDENT Adriano Pecoraro COORDINATION Sergio Iannotta PUBLISHER

Alex Vittorio Lana & Matteo Parigi Bini EDITOR IN CHIEF Matteo Parigi Bini MANAGING EDITOR Martina Olivieri EDITORIAL STAFF Teresa Favi, Francesca Lombardi, Virginia Mammoli COVER Garden of Villa Bardini ph. Ottavia Poli PHOTOGRAPHERS Lorenzo Cotrozzi, Andrea Dughetti, Maurizio Elia, Dario Garofalo, Pierpaolo Pagano, Pasquale Paradiso, Sebastiano Pellion di Persano Ottavia Poli, New Press Photo, Andrea Rossetti ART EDITORS Martina Alessi, Melania Branca TRANSLATIONS Centotraduzioni, Tessa Conticelli ADVERTISING AND MARKETING DIRECTOR Alex Vittorio Lana ADVERTISING Nicola Brigandì, Alessandra Nardelli, Monica Offidani, Stefano Papini EDITORIAL OFFICE Gruppo Editoriale via Cristoforo Landino, 2 - 50129 Firenze - Italy ph +39 055 0498097 - www.gruppoeditoriale.com Florence Concierge information is registered with the Court of Florence under n°2491 PRINT Baroni & Gori Questo periodico è associato alla Unione Stampa Periodica Italiana

copyright © Gruppo Editoriale srl

EDITORIAL

WELCOME TO FLORENCE

TEXT Adriano Pecoraro President of the Tuscan Association of Hotel concierges “Les Clefs d’Or”

D

ear Guest, We wish you a very warm welcome to Tuscany, on behalf of all the Golden Key concierges. Florence Concierge Information is our concrete commitment to make your stay in our region a truly memorable experience. I am extremely pleased with my new position as President of the association, and together with all other members of the new board, I hope to assist you in making the most of your stay in the city through tips and expert recommendations. In this magazine you’ll find all the information you might need and, above all, our suggestions for the best the city has to offer in March and April. In Flor-

COUNCIL MEMBERS

President Adriano Pecoraro Vice President Marco Bolcioni Secretary Aldo Vrakaj Treasurer Vittorio D’Ottavio Councilor Gabriele Davitti Councilor Antonio Pagano Councilor Sergio Iannotta Councilor Lorenzo Colella Councilor Paul Lydka Councilor Maurizio Ammazzini senior Councilor Alessandro Buffi senior Honorary President Francesco Brunori Honorary President Michele Paonessa 11

ence, every month is unique and special, with fabulous one-off events. Let’s discover and get to know them better together. In this issue, provided personally by us to you, we’ll tell you about the events you shouldn’t miss, the most beautiful exhibitions to see in the city and the restaurants absolutely worth trying to taste authentic Florentine and Tuscan cuisine. Also, don’t miss our unique tour of the city’s most beautiful churches, secret and lesser-known gardens, cult dishes to try in spring. What’s more, we’re at your disposal at our counter, delighted to receive your enquiries and questions.Have a wonderful and amazing stay.

V I A D E L C O R S O, 3 4 R | P H . + 3 9 0 5 5 2 8 3 5 3 8 | G I N G E R F I R E N Z E . C O M

V I A P O RTA R O S S A, 4 2 | P H. +3 9 0 5 5 2 9 1 4 4 8 | T RY M E.IT

EVENTS

DATES FOR YOUR DIARY

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CAPODANNO FIORENTINO 25 March

Dating back to ancient times, the Catholic Church has celebrated the Feast of the Annunciation. Since the seventh century, this date coincided with the 25th of March, nine months before Christmas, the day of the birth of Jesus Christ.

Up until 1750, the city of Florence celebrated New Year on that date as the Florentine calendar started on 25 March with the Feast of the Annunciation.

MUSIC, HISTORICAL EVENTS AND CRAFTS: SPRING’S TOP EVENTS NOT TO BE MISSED

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SCOPPIO DEL CARRO 9 April

Every year Florence celebrates Easter Sunday with the Explosion of the cart, also known as Brindellone, which is drawn by two oxen around the streets of Florence to Piazza del Duomo. The archbishop then uses the sacred fire to light a dove-shaped rocket that is launched at the cart in the square, letting off a spectacular explosion of fireworks.

GIORNATE FAI DI PRIMAVERA 25 and 26 March

The most important event of FAI, now in its 31st edition, gives the opportunity to discover and rediscover hidden treasures of art and nature throughout Italy; a chance to visit over 750 places in 400 cities, most of them usually inaccessible or hardly known.

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EVENTS

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ORT EASTER CONCERT 7 April Teatro Verdi

The ORT Easter concert is back with Alevtina Ioffe, the first Russian female to be appointed as director of a theatre, the Mikhailovsky theatre of St. Petersburg. A special concert where she will conduct three major works: Tchaikovsky’s “Mozartiana” Suite, Dvořák’s Czech Suite and Brahms’ Violin Concerto Op.77.

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FESTIVAL DEL MAGGIO MUSICALE 22 April - 8 July Teatro del Maggio Musicale

5 MIDA

25 April - 1 May Fortezza da Basso Every year, the International Crafts Exhibition welcomes artisans and artisan businesses of all types and sizes to offer visitors the opportunity to discover the variety, richness and quality of this traditional and innovative sector, which always stimulates great interest.

A music program featuring 3 opera performances, 8 concerts as well as two Mozart operas in September and November. There will also be an opera for children and a conference on Maria Callas. On 23 April, Florence will come alive with the music of Tuscan bands to celebrate this festival.

EVERY YEAR THE CITY OF FLORENCE CELEBRATES EASTER SUNDAY WITH THE EXPLOSION OF THE CAR, ALSO KNOWN AS BRINDELLONE FOR MORE DETAILS AND RESERVATIONS, ASK YOUR “LES CLEFS D’OR” CONCIERGE 16

Via San Niccolò, 2 | +39.055.046.0476 |Bespoke@StefanoBemer.com

EXHIBITIONS

ART APPOINTMENTS

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REACHING FOR THE STARS. DA MAURIZIO CATTELAN A LYNETTE YIADOM-BOAKYE Until 18 June Palazzo Strozzi

A selection of works by major international contemporary artists such as Maurizio Cattelan, Sarah Lucas, Damien Hirst, Lynette Yiadom-Boakye and Rudolf Stingel. With painting, sculpture, installations, photography, video and performance, this project promotes the dialogue between Palazzo Strozzi and contemporary art.

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GIACOMETTI - FONTANA. LA RICERCA DELL’ASSOLUTO Until 4 June Museo di Palazzo Vecchio

Alberto Giacometti and Lucio Fontana, two pillars of the 20th century, so different in life and views, but equally linked by their reflections on truth in art. An exhibition at the Museo di Palazzo Vecchio in which the juxtaposed works take on the evocative power of a dream. In conjunction with this major project, the Museo Novecento devotes two entire floors of the Ex Leopoldine exhibition space to Lucio Fontana’s drawings and sculptures, until 13 September.

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL AND IMPRESSIVE SPRING EXHIBITIONS TO SEE IN TOWN ELEONORA DI TOLEDO E L’INVENZIONE DELLA CORTE DEI MEDICI Until 14 May Tesoro dei Granduchi, Palazzo Pitti

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The largest exhibition ever held in honour of Eleanor of Toledo, the “Great Lady of the Sixteenth Century”. More than 100 works, including pieces from important international museums, between paintings, drawings, tapestries, clothes, jewellery and precious stones recount the life, personality and huge cultural impact of the Duchess of Florence.

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4 EXHIBITIONS

Y.Z. KAMI. LIGHT, GAZE, PRESENCE

Until 24 September At Museo Novecento, Museo di Palazzo Vecchio, Museo degli Innocenti and the Abbey of San Miniato al Monte A journey into the pictorial universe of the famous Iranian-American artist, who has lived and worked in New York since the 1980s. His works focus more on close-up portraits of men and women immersed in an ethereal dimension, a place that is an evocation of memories or the afterlife.

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ESCHER

Until 26 March Museo degli Innocenti

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HENRY MOORE IN FLORENCE

The great exhibition devoted to the brilliant artist Maurits Cornelis Escher is on view at the Museo degli Innocenti until March 26. An anthological exhibition featuring about 200 works among those particularly significant and the most iconic by the Dutch genius.

Until 31 March Piazza della Signoria and San Miniato al Monte

A tribute event 50 years after his unforgettable exhibition at Forte Belvedere in 1972.

The city pays homage to the English master by exhibiting “Family Group” and “Large Interior Form”, respectively in two symbolic places: Piazza della Signoria and the Churchyard of the Abbey of San Miniato al Monte, perfectly set within the historical and artistic heritage of Florence.

FOR MORE DETAILS AND RESERVATIONS, ASK YOUR “LES CLEFS D’OR” CONCIERGE 20

A SELECTION OF WORKS

BY MAJOR INTERNATIONAL CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS SUCH AS MAURIZIO CATTELAN AND DAMIEN HIRST AT PALAZZO STROZZI

0Y\YV] LSQI PMRIRW VIÁ RIH RMKLX[IEV ERH VIEH] XS [IEV QEHI MR *PSVIRGI F] QEWXIV EVXMWERW &IWTSOI ERH QEHI XS QIEWYVI WIVZMGIW EW TEVX SJ SYV GSVI For her, him and the kids. Since 1967

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Timeless style with small bags, corolla skirts, cashmere cardigans and exquisite bijou jewellery. Elegance that’s light and never flashy

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ADIDAS At Rinascente Firenze

COLORS

An explosion of colours, details borrowed from a palette fresh as a fruit sorbet.

There’s a yearning for sunshine and carefree living in the Spring/Summer fashions

BY Francesca Lombardi

TRY ME Via Porta Rossa 42r Firenze

SCUOLA DEL CUOIO Via San Giuseppe 5r, Firenze

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SHOPPING

STEFANO BEMER Via di San Niccolò 2 Firenze

PANERAI SUBMERSIBLE QUARANTAQUATTRO Piazza di San Giovanni 14r Firenze

GENTLE – MAN

Male elegance is made of unusual fabrics, beautiful leathers and contrasting accessories that disrupt without upsetting the balance

BY Francesca Lombardi STEFANO BEMER Via di San Niccolò 2, Firenze

GIOTTO FIRENZE Via Guicciardini 58r Firenze

BOTTEGA DI SGUARDI Via G. Marconi 19/Fr, Firenze Via del Parione 54r, Firenze

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Just 30 minutes from Florence Daily shuttle bus from city centre

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NUANCES

Every shade of gold for accessories that make all the difference, with designer touches, Amarcord details and vintage-mood finishes

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LET’S DISCOVER FLORENCE WITH ANTONIO PAGANO

As a Chiavi d’Oro Chef Concierge of Casa Howard in Florence, here are a few tips to those visiting the city to help them get the most out of their stay

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My career in the hotel industry began in 1990 when, as a young foreign languages and literatures student, I started working at a hotel as doorman. I was attracted to the job of concierge from the very start, because of the skills required: interacting and listening to guests, problem solving and fluency in foreign languages. All skills necessary to be able to offer guests a top-level experience, by anticipating their needs, wishes and expectations.

And so my career path was

set, at first as concierge at 4 and 5-star hotels, such as Plaza Hotel Lucchesi and Hotel Regency, and then, in 2010, I was promoted to the position of Chef Concierge Clefs D’Or at Hotel Villa Cora and, since last July, at Casa Howard - Residenza d’Epoca.

Although I’ve been doing this job for over 30 years, I’m still very passionate about it, welcoming and helping guests every day to explore our wonderful Florence still makes me very happy!

TIPS

UR OF B IC Y C L E T O O R K S TW S T R E E T A R rence, in

s of Flo The street colò the San Nic particular, ll of ood, are fu neighborh of art onal works unconventi gral now an inte which are ative n city’s alter part of the erings. artistic off

CONCIER GE ADVICE

BA SI LI CA OF SA NTA M AR IA NO VE LL A

BRANCACCI CHAPEL Owing to the restoration works which will continue through summer, it is possible to admire the frescoes by Masaccio, Masolino da Panicale and Filippino Lippi from a very

Besides housing extra ordinary masterworks, includ ing The Holy Trinity

by Masaccio, the fre scoes by Ghirlanda io in the Tornabuoni Ch apel and Giotto’s Crucifix, this Church features a façade which is a marvelou s example of Renaissance art.

unusual and unique viewpoint!

ER S T E FA N O B E M

church in the d and disused es A small, age-ol hborhood hous n Niccolò neig Sa e th of t ds ar ar he er, who gu of Stefano Bem the craft shop ’s tailoring by isticated men ph so t os m e and over th omized pieces of-a-kind cust creating oneng.

-porter clothi unique prêt-à

LO CA LE

The perfect place for an exclusive experience of mixo logy and local food, an impeccable culinary journey through the past an d present.

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m a d e a n d d e c o ra t e d b y h a n d Via del Parione, 35 A/R, 50123 Firenze - Italia +39 347 592 0581 +39 055 7096188 info@riccardoluci.com riccardoluci.com ULFFDUGROXFLÀ UHQ]H

TUSCAN DISH

LOBSTER TAGLIOLINI

We bring you the recipe of the dish by the famous Ristorante Frescobaldi TEXT Martina Olivieri

R

istorante Frescobaldi has brought the flavors of the authentic Tuscan cuisine and its wines to Florence. Fresh pasta and bread are made daily at the restaurant and the recipes are based on the use of the best seasonal ingredients. Bread is served with Laudemio, the extra-virgin olive oil produced on the Frescobaldi Estates in Tuscany. Piazza della Signoria is the lovely backdrop to the restaurant’s intriguing menu.

Among its signature dishes is the famous lobster, hot pepper and tomato tagliolini. Let’s find out how it’s made!

PREPARATION: Start from separating the lobster’s head from the tail and boil the tail in hot water for about 3 minutes and the rest for about 4 minutes. Slit the underside of the tail’s shell all along its length and remove the meat, chop into pieces and put aside.

Heat a generous amount of olive oil in a pan and add the garlic, hot pepper and lobster meat, pour in the white wine and let it evaporate. Add the tomato sauce, a pinch of salt and cook for a few minutes. In the meantime, cook the pasta “al dente”, drain and pour into the sauce, stir, add the parsley and serve with fresh basil leaves to decorate the plate.

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Garden of Villa Bardini (ph. Pasquale Paradiso) 34

ART

A HEAVEN OF BEAUTY The secret and little-known gardens of Florence TEXT Martina Olivieri

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GARDENS

PARKS AND GARDENS THAT WILL BREATH AWAY

F

lorence is not only a city of art, architecture and amazing monuments, but is also synonymous with parks and gardens that will take your breath away. The green areas are many and varied, from the gardens of the Medici family to small hidden gems all over the city.

Besides the famous gardens of Boboli, there are other magnificent examples of beauty which behold secrets and surprises, and that by only looking carefully, one can find them. Let us find out together where the most beautiful gardens in the city with breathtaking views and scenery are.

GARDENS OF PALAZZO DELLA GHERARDESCA It does not seem as if you are in Florence when walking along the avenues of the secret park of the iconic Four Seasons Hotel Florence; one of the most beautiful and undiscovered green areas of the city. It was once a botanical 36

garden in the 14th century, and restored by Count Guido della Gherardesca in 1820, who made it into an elegant garden inspired by Romanticism. Today, it still retains all of its original splendour with pools, statues and fountains of alluring charm. While meandering, you will encounter the famous temple, the Kaffeehaus and many centuries-old trees from redwoods to conifers. This oasis connects to the two buildings which are part of the Four Seasons Hotel: the 15th-century Palazzo della Gherardesca and La Villa, a former 16th-century convent. It is only accessible to hotel guests except for special occasions such as the Open Day held every December.

GIARDINO DELLE ROSE A real jewel of a garden located below Piazzale Michelangelo which features over a thousand varieties, including 350 species of ancient roses, and offers a unique view of the city. It is enriched

by the works of the Belgian artist Jean-Michel Folon: you can admire the view looking through the Partir suitcase, have a rest next to the man of Folon on the otherworldly bench of the Je me souviens installation, you can caress Chat, the large cat sleeping on the grass between the rose bushes and you can admire the city from above in the company of Envol. It even has a touch of Japanese with a garden donated to the city by the twin city of Kyoto: you will feel like you are surrounded by the amazing natural wonders of the Orient.

GIARDINO DELL’IRIS Located on the corner of Viale dei Colli and Piazzale Michelangelo in the Podere dei Bastioni, the Iris garden is dedicated to the flower that has been the symbol of the city since 1251. The Premio Firenze started with hosting an annual international competition for the best varieties of Iris, and today,

GARDENS

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1. Gardens of Palazzo della Gherardesca (ph. Ottavia Poli) 2. Giardino dell’Iris (ph. Pasquale Paradiso) 3. Giardino Corsini (ph. Pasquale Paradiso) 4. Giardino delle Rose (ph. Pasquale Paradiso) 5. Giardino dei Semplici

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aaa

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GARDENS

Giardino dell’Orticoltura (ph. Otttavia Poli) 38

ART

Giardino delle Rose (ph. Ottavia Poli) 39

GARDENS

Gardens of Palazzo della Gherardesca (ph. Ottavia Poli) 40

GARDENS

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL GARDENS IN THE CITY WITH BREATHTAKING VIEWS it is a treasure trove of wonder where the most beautiful species of iris grow in steep meadows among olive trees in a landscape that seems to be millions of miles away from the city. A multitude of shapes and colours which cover almost the entire ground of the garden, and when in full bloom, it turns it into a magnificent carpet of colour.

It is only open two weeks in May from 10am to 6pm.

GARDEN OF VILLA BARDINI The Bardini Garden has belonged to wealthy families since the Middle Ages: it was first used for agricultural activities, but then transformed throughout the centuries into the splendid Italian garden we can see today.

It takes its name from the antique collector Stefano Bardini, the Prince of antique dealers, who owned it at the beginning of the 20th century and used to meet with his wealthy clients in this spectacular setting. The

Bardini Garden is made up of three parts, all different in period and style: the Italian garden with its magnificent Baroque staircase, the English forest with its exotic elements representing a rare example of an Anglo-Chinese garden, and the vegetable garden where there is a new orchard and the splendid wisteria-covered pergola which blooms in spring between April and May. GIARDINO TORRIGIANI It is the largest private garden in Europe situated within the city walls. It was already famous in the sixteenth century as a botanical garden but was given a new lease of life at the beginning of the nineteenth century when Marquis Pietro Torrigiani enlarged it, thus transforming it into an English romantic garden, according to the tastes of that period.

The famous neo-Gothic style tower inspired by the family’s coat of arms was designed by engineer Gaetano Baccani

who also built the bell tower of the Basilica of Santa Croce.

As well as its architectural importance, it is also renowned for its botanical garden, extremely rich in tree species and plants from different parts of the world.

GIARDINO DELL’ORTICOLTURA Extremely elegant that it was chosen as a set for the films Amici miei – Atto II and Sotto una buona stella, the Horticulture Garden was founded by the Tuscan Horticultural Society in 1852 in an estate belonging to Marquis Ginori Lisci and Marquise Marianna Venturi. One of its key features is the tepidarium in iron and glass in Art Nouveau style designed by architect Giacomo Roster and built in 1880 on the occasion of a national exhibition being organised in the city. Not far from the spectacular greenhouse, there is a lawn featuring a splendid Renaissance loggia. Through an underpass beyond the railway, you can 41

GARDENS

Serre Torrigiani (ph. Pasquale Paradiso) 42

GARDENS

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GARDENS

Gardens of Villa Bardini (ph. Pasquale Paradiso)

access the Garden of the Parnassus, a small green area that sits on a panoramic slope, featuring a unique dragon-shaped fountain, which cleverly winds around the staircase.

GIARDINO CORSINI A Renaissance garden designed and built for the residence of the Corsini family in 1620 by architect Gherardo Silvani. Giardini Corsini is a hidden gem protected by a high wall that surrounds the ancient Palazzo Corsini al Prato where the family still live today. It features about 130 citrus plants thanks to the three large lemon groves which shelter the plants during winter time. To the west 44

of the garden, there is also the last plot of agricultural land in the centre of Florence with centuries-old lime trees. A large colony of turtles has roamed here freely in the garden for centuries. Once a year in mid-September, the garden hosts Artigianato e Palazzo, an exhibition dedicated to artisanal excellence and ancient crafts.

GIARDINO DEI SEMPLICI It is the third oldest botanical garden in the world. It dates back to 1545 when Cosimo I dei Medici rented the land from the monastery of San Domenico in Cafaggio on which the vegetable garden was to be built. The Giardino dei Semplici was called

in this way as it was to be a vegetable garden with medicinal plants or “Semplici”. It covers a surface of 2.3 hectares with 1694 m² occupied by greenhouses. The layout of the flower beds recalls the Medieval Hortus conclusus design dedicated to the cultivation of medicinal and aromatic plants, also present in the secret garden of the Renaissance villa. The main building occupying the entire side of Via Micheli houses the offices, the library, a work shop and the greenhouses which are divided into warm greenhouses for tropical plants and cold greenhouses for plants requiring a lower temperature.

TRATTORIA NAPOLEONE Piazza del Carmine, 24 Firenze TEL. +39 055 281015 | TRATTORIANAPOLEONE.IT

@trattorianapoleone

Trattoria NapoLeone

Santa Maria del Fiore, Vasari frescoes in the dome 46

EXPERIENCES

SPLENDOUR AND DEVOTION The most beautiful churches of Florence TEXT Francesca Lombardi 47

EXPERIENCES

Masaccio Trinity, Santa Maria Novella (ph. Pierpaolo Pagano) 48

CHURCHES

Church of Santo Spirito (ph. Albino Todeschini)

D

iscover these magnificent cathedrals: a symbol of sacredness and eternal beauty, religious participation but also a repository of culture and art.

SANTA MARIA DEL FIORE It is almost right to start with Santa Maria del Fiore, the Cathedral of Florence.

Its construction started in 1296 on the foundations of a previous church dedicated to Santa Reparata in a project by Arnolfo di Cambio, but the cathedral, with the exception of the façade, was completed in 1436 with the addition of the magnificent dome by

Filippo Brunelleschi. The original façade - designed

by Arnolfo and partly built by several artists, including Andrea Orcagna and Taddeo Gaddi - was dismantled between 1587-88 by architect Bernardo Buontalenti on request of Francesco I de’ Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany. It was eventually completed in 1887 in a project by Emilio De Fabbris, who chose a Neo-Gothic style with an abundant use of white, green and black marble. The interior of Santa Maria del Fiore is immense with a length of 153 metres and a width of 38 metres which become 90

at the transept. The cathedral of Florence houses the largest set of stained-glass windows, all made in Italy between the 14th and 15th centuries by some of the greatest Florentine artists of the Middle Ages such as Donatello, Lorenzo Ghiberti, Paolo Uccello and Andrea del Castagno.

It also features a Dome with a fresco of The Last Judgement by Giorgio Vasari: its diameter of 45.5 metres and a total height of more than 116 metres make it is the largest masonry vault in the world. It was not completed for 122 years and was finally built between 1420 and 49

CHURCHES

The frescoes of Santa Croce’s apse (ph. Dario Garofalo) 50

CHURCHES

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Cappella Brancacci, Cacciata di Adamo ed Eva, Masaccio (ph. Pierpaolo Pagano)

EXPERIENCES

San Lorenzo cloister 53

CHURCHES

Porta Coeli San Miniato al Monte Abbey (ph. Pierpaolo Pagano)

1436 by Filippo Brunelleschi, according to a project that he had presented at the competition organised by the Opera in 1418.

SANTA MARIA NOVELLA The works for the construction of this large Dominican church started in 1246 and were completed in the middle of the 14th century.

The lower part of the façade is made of white, green and red marble and is believed to have been designed by Dominican architect Fra Iacopo Talenti da Nipozzano. The upper part instead was completed only one hundred years later in 1470

by Leon Battista Alberti, who added its characteris54

tic geometric decorations which represent the emblem of a sail in the wind, the symbol of the Rucellais, a rich family of merchants.

Inside, the church is large and imposing, and features many works of art including frescoes by Ghirlandaio, Filippino Lippi and Andrea Orcagna, a majestic crucifix

by Giotto and the famous Holy Trinity by Masaccio.

SANTA CROCE The cathedral of Santa Croce is one of the best examples of Gothic architecture in Italy, known as the temple of Italy’s glories, as it is the burial site of many great artists, writers and scientists. What to see?

Just the Cappella dei Pazzi, located at the bottom of the cloister, would be worth visiting. But you cannot just stop here as there are many other magnificent things to see. For example, Cappella Niccolini is the chapel where Stendhal had an intense physical response standing in front of the artworks - what would become known as his famous syndrome - and it is also here that De Chirico, coming out of a long convalescence, while sitting on a bench in front of the façade painted his first metaphysical painting: The Enigma of an Autumn Afternoon. A novelty: our own Lady Liberty, de-

EXPERIENCES

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1. Santa Maria Novella (ph. Ottavia Poli) 2. Orsamichele (ph. Pierpaolo Pagano) 3. Santo Spirito 4. San Lorenzo (ph. Pierpaolo Pagano) 5. Santa Maria del Fiore, the Cathedral of Florence

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CHURCHES

SYMBOL OF ETERNAL BEAUTY, BUT ALSO OF CULTURE AND ART signed by Florentine sculptor Pio Fedi and very similar to the one in New York.

SANTA MARIA DEL CARMINE It dominates the square of the same name in the Oltrarno district. It is famous for housing a collection of frescoes, a masterpiece of Renaissance art in the Cappella Brancacci decorated with artworks by Masaccio and Masolino.

CHIESA DI SANTO SPIRITO Also located in Oltrarno, it is one of the major cathedrals of the early Renaissance: Santo Spirito, the last masterpiece by Filippo Brunelleschi. It features the spectacular wooden Crucifix by Michelangelo. But also masterpieces by Filippo Lippi, Allori, Michele Ridolfo del Ghirlandaio…

ORSANMICHELE This church features a rectangular plan, a very unusual shape for religious buildings and the only example of European late

Gothic architecture. The building has a particular two-storey structure: the upper floor was used as a grain warehouse, while the church was built in the lower part. Outside, the niches built between the trifora windows house the statues of the patron saints of the various guilds of the Arts, the source of the economic prosperity of the city.

SAN LORENZO Consecrated by Saint Ambrose in 393, it is the oldest church in Florence. The current architectural complex was built by Brunelleschi, who also designed the Old Sacristy on request of the House of Medici. At the back of the church, which also opens onto Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, there is the complex of the Medici Chapels. Today, it has been turned into a museum which is accessible from the apse of the Basilica of San Lorenzo and features the sumptuous Mau-

soleo dei Principi and the New Sagresty designed by Michelangelo to be used as the funerary chapel of the Medici family.

The Grand Dukes of Tuscany and their families rest in the large Cappella dei Principi, built in the next century and completely covered with marble and semi-precious stones. Remember to look up to admire the wonderful scenic effect.

SAN MINIATO AL MONTE This abbey was built between the 11th and 13th century. Its exterior is decorated with green and white marble in geometric patterns, similar to those in the façades of Santa Croce and Santa Maria Novella.

Inside, the abbey is in Romanesque style with three naves. From its courtyard, you can enjoy the wonderful view of Florence which extends from the Cathedral to Palazzo Vecchio to the walls that surrounded Florence.

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A beautiful view of Florence surrounded by greenery from Fiesole (ph. Lorenzo Cotrozzi) 58

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FIESOLE, THE TOUR

From art to food, an itinerary in the beautiful hill town that overlooks Florence TEXT Teresa Favi

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The place for carpets in Florence

LABIRINTO Original carpet from the “Gio’ Ponti Collection” hand-knotted in Nepal in custom size. www.boralevi.com 055 28.17.56 Via Maggio, 16/R Firenze

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ONE OF THE MOST DELIGHTFUL HILL TOWNS

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iesole is one of the most delightful hill towns in the Florence area: aristocratic, aloof and studded with Renaissance villas, cypress-lined avenues and gardens.

WHAT TO SEE The best views are enjoyed from the belvedere of the Convento of San Francesco, which very few people know, because you have to walk up the hill to get there from the central Piazza Mino. But the views make it worth the effort.

Also worth a visit is the Imperial age Roman amphitheatre (open 10.00 to 18.00 every day except Tuesday, limited hours in winter); in summer it becomes the stage for Estate Fiesolana, a long-established season of evenings including theatre, concerts, dance and film.

In front of the amphitheatre, a gorgeous neoclassi-

IN FLORENCE cal building is home to the Archaeological Museum, displaying testimonies to Fiesole’s ancient past (in March, open 10.00-18.00 every day; April to Septem-

THE TOWN OF FIESOLE IS ON A HILL JUST A FEW KILOMETRES NORTH OF FLORENCE YET RETAINS ITS OWN PERSONALITY AND CHARM AND HAS SEVERAL INTERESTING MONUMENTS ber, 10.00-19.00 every day; October, 10.00-18.00 every day; November to February, 11.00-14.00 every day except Tuesday). The Bandini Mu-

seum (open 10.00-19.00 daily, closed Tuesday, limited opening in winter) contains an extensive collection of Della Robbia ceramics. Other important monuments in the town centre are the Cathedral of St Romulus, the Bishop’s Palace and the ancient church of Santa Maria Primerana.

IN THE AREA Several major cultural institutions are based in Fiesole, including the European University Institute (EUI), the Scuola di Musica at Villa La Torraccia, Harvard University at Villa Tatti, Georgetown University at Villa Le Balze and two foundations, one named for Primo Conti, the other for Giovanni.

FAMOUS PEOPLE Throughout history, numerous illustrious figures have chosen to spend a period of their life in Fiesole: Boccaccio, Proust, Gertrude Stein and Frank Lloyd Wright, who not only 61

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The Imperial age Roman amphitheatre.

In summer it becomes the stage for ‘Estate Fiesolana’, a long-established season of theatre, music and show (ph. Lorenzo Cotrozzi) 62

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Piazza Mino, the main square of Fiesole 65

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View from the belvedere of Convento of San Francesco 66

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Convento of San Francesco

admired the magnificent views of Florence, but also the landscape itself, so bucolic and relaxing. A splendid place to visit is Villa Roseto, once the home of renowned architect Giovanni Michelucci, famous for the design of Santa Maria Novella station in Florence. From the house there are fabulous views of Brunelleschi’s dome, surrounded by the hills of the Arno valley.

WINE AND FOOD A few years ago the talented winemaker Bibi Graetz opened his winery in Fiesole’s main square.

Traditional food can be

found at Terrazza 45 (in the square) or at Spaccio della Fattoria di Maia-

A FEW YEARS AGO THE TALENTED WINEMAKER BIBI GRAETZ OPENED HIS WINERY IN FIESOLE’S MAIN SQUARE no (outside the town). If you’re looking for exclusivity, don’t miss the gourmet

restaurant La Loggia di Villa San Michele. In the hills between Florence and Fiesole stands Coquinarius, the perfect place if you want to combine delicious food and wonderful countryside, combining homemade pasta with breathtaking views of Florence.

And if you’re looking for a charming and unusual setting surrounded by plants of every kind, the Le Lune nursery on the road to Fiesole was one of the first to open a restaurant, offering products from its Fontallerta and Barbialla farms in a cheerful and homely atmosphere.

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Goshka Macuga, ‘Gonogo’ (ph. Ela Bialkowska OKNOstudio) 68

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A GALAXY OF MASTERPIECES Reaching for the stars, the new exhibition at Palazzo Strozzi TEXT Francesca Lombardi

M

aurizio Cattelan, Cindy Sherman, Damien Hirst, Lara Favaretto, William Kentridge, Berlinde De Bruyckere, Sarah Lucas, Lynette Yiadom-Boakye… until 18 June 2023 there’s a veritable galaxy of artworks at Palazzo Strozzi, from the Piano Nobile to the Strozzina, including a very special new installation in the palace’s Renaissance courtyard. Promoted and organised by Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi and Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo, Reaching for the Stars explores the major art trends of recent decades and marks the 30th anniversary of the Sandretto Re Rebaudengo Collection, one of Italy’s most famous and prestigious art collections. The Palazzo Strozzi

exhibition arises from the desire to create a platform for experimentation and participation which brings together works from the collection, new art created for the show, and an extensive programme of initiatives with the artists, including talks and workshops, and numerous activities involving the public.

As the Foundation’s director Arturo Galansino tells us: “Hosting a collection like this in Florence means celebrating the value of art patronage and commissioning, in the city where art collecting was born”. The exhibition explores a variety of themes that marked the end of the 20th century and the beginning of the 21st: experimentation with artistic languages, figurative and abstract art,

identity and the body from a social and political perspective, the role and image of woman in today’s society, reflections on shared and individual contemporary history through references such as 9/11 and the battle for civil rights. At Palazzo Strozzi, fundamental works such as Anish Kapoor’s 1000 Names (1983) or Damien Hirst’s Love Is Great (1994) are displayed alongside a broad selection of pieces by Maurizio Cattelan, the central artist in an exploration of Italian art of the 90s and 2000s, along with Paola Pivi and Lara Favaretto, among others. Running in parallel to these are themed sections, like the one dominated by Cindy Sherman’s famous series Untitled Film Stills (1978-1980), which offers 69

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Cerith Wyn Evans ‘In Girum Imus Nocte et Consumimur Igni’ (courtesy Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo ph. Andrea Rossetti) 70

SHOPPING

Glenn Brown ‘Ariane 5’ (courtesy Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo ph. Maurizio Elia) 71

SHOPPING

Lynette Yiadom-Boakye ‘Switcher’ (courtesy Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo) 72

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Maurizio Cattelan, ‘La rivoluzione siamo noi‘ (courtesy Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo) 73

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From above clockwise, artworks by: Barbara Kruger, Michael Armitage, Thomas Struth, Vanessa Beecroft, Damien Hirst (courtesy Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo)

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Lara Favaretto ‘Gummo V’ (courtesy Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo ph. Sebastiano Pellion di Persano)

a social and political reflection on identity in dialogue with works by Shirin Neshat, Barbara Kruger’s large-scale print Untitled (Not Ugly Enough) (1997) or the huge organic sculpture Self-Portrait (1993) by Pawel Althamer. Sculpture continues with large works by Andra Ursutʏa, Adriaɩn Villar Rojas, Berlinde De Bruyckere and Mark Manders, whose practice explores the body and its deconstruction and recomposition. Research in painting form is showcased in works by artists including Lynette Yiadom-Boakye, Sanya Kantarovsky, Michael Armitage, Cecily Brown

and Avery Singer. The exhibition is completed by a large section of Video Art, with key works by William

A VERITABLE GALAXY OF ARTWORKS AT PALAZZO STROZZI, FROM THE PIANO NOBILE TO THE STROZZINA Kentridge, presenting History of the Main Complaint (1996), Douglas Gordon and

Philippe Parreno, with his acclaimed video installation Zidane. A 21st Century Portrait (2005) and Ragnar Kjartansson with The End – Rocky Mountains (2009).

“This exhibition which begins in the magnificent open courtyard, reflects the value of sharing that has always been inherent in my collection and is fully in tune with the approach of Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi, led with great professionalism by Arturo Galansino, to encourage participation in and accessibility of culture”, concludes Patrizia Sandretto Re Rebaudengo, President of Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo.

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The works of Alberto Giacometti and Lucio Fontana at Palazzo Vecchio and Museo Novecento in a dual exhibition 76

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THE ABSOLUTE: GIACOMETTI E FONTANA Two exhibitions in Florence to discover two of the most important artists of the 20th century TEXT Francesca Lombardi

T

wo masters of the ĀþXL GIRXYV] JSV XLI ÁVWX XMQI XSgether: The works of Alberto Giacometti ERH Lucio Fontana [MPP FI SR HMWTPE] MR *PSVIRGI MR E HYEP I\LMFMXMSR SVKERMWIH F] 7IVKMS 6MWEPMXM HMVIGXSV SJ XLI Museo Novecento. The two QEWXIVW [MPP FI XLI TVSXEKSRMWXW SJ E TEVEPPIP NSYVRI] [LMGL EMQW EX SJJIVMRK RI[ [E]W SJ EREP]WMRK XLIMV EVX ERH TVSZMHMRK RI[ MRXIVTVIXEXMSRW 8LI I\LMFMXMSR Giacometti - Fontana. La ricerca dell’assoluto (2 March - 4 June GYVEXIH F] 'LMEVE +EXXM ERH 7IVKMS 6MWEPMXM [MPP FI LIPH MRWMHI XLI QENIWXMG LEPPW SJ XLI 1YWIS HM 4EPE^^S :IGGLMS MR TEVXMGYPEV MR XLI 7EPE HIPPI 9HMIR^I ERH MR XLI 7EPE HIM +MKPM [LMGL EPWS LSYWIW XLI JEQSYW .YHMXL

ERH ,SPSJIVRIW F] (SREXIPPS 8LI [SVOW SJ +MEGSQIXXM ERH *SRXERE EVI TVIWIRXIH PMOI QIXISVMXIW MR E YRMZIVWI WYWTIRHIH FIX[IIR XLI TEWX ERH XLI JYXYVI 8LI WIEVGL JSV XLI EFWSPYXI MW XLI PMRO FIX[IIR XLI EVX SJ +MEGSQIXXM ERH *SRXERE F] WIEVGLMRK JSV XLI EFWSPYXI XLI] [IVI FSXL EFPI XS EGLMIZI XLI IWWIRXMEP 8LI] VINIGXIH MQMXEXMSR ERH SZIVGEQI XLI PMQMXW SJ W]QFSPMG ERH ÁKYVEXMZI VITVIWIRXEXMSR [MXL ER EVXMWXMG WX]PI [LMGL VIZSPZIH EVSYRH KIWXYVI ERH QERMTYPEXMSR GSRGIRXVEXMSR ERH XLI VIRYRGMEXMSR SJ E HIÁRMXMZI JSVQ ;LIVIEW 0YGMS *SRXERE ÿĆćć ÿćĄĆ WIEVGLIH JSV XLI MRÁRMX] MR PMJI FIX[IIR XLI REXYVEP [SVPH ERH XLI GSWQSW I\TERHMRK LMW QMRH FI]SRH XLI WYVJEGI SJ XLI GERZEW %PFIVXS +MEGSQIXXM ÿćþÿ ÿ楥 WXYHMIH XLI

IWWIRGI SJ FIMRK [LMPI I\TYRKMRK ER] MRIWWIRXMEP HEXE JVSQ XLI TMGXYVI HIZSMH SJ GSVTSVIMX] WIRWYEPMX] KVEZMX] ERH VIHYGIH XS E WMQTPI WXIQ SJ XLI WSYP XLI IWWIRGI SJ PMJI FYX EPWS XVERWMIRGI 8LI SFNIGXMZI SJ XLI Giacometti - Fontana. La ricerca dell’assoluto I\LMFMXMSR MW XS IREFPI E JSGYWIH GSQTEVMWSR FIX[IIR XLIMV [SVOW MR SVHIV XS HIQSRWXVEXI XLI I\MWXIRGI SJ GSQQSR TSMRXW ERH ZMVXYSYW WMQMPEVMXMIW [LMGL EVI XLI VIWYPX SJ E WLEVIH JIIPMRK FPSWWSQIH HYVMRK ER IVE EJÂMGXIH F] UYIWXMSRW EFSYX QER ERH LMW VSPI MR XLI YRMZIVWI % HIWMVI XS VIWIEVGL MRXS LYQERMX] PMROW XLI VIÂIGXMSRW SJ XLI X[S EVXMWXW FSXL WE[ XLI [SVPH EW E TPEGI SJ TEWWEKI SJ XVERWMXMSR ERH EMQIH XS VITVIWIRX XLI MQQEXIVMEP XLVSYKL QEXXIV´VYMRIH F] 77

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‘L’Homme qui marche I’ and ‘Femme debout II (Grande femme debout II)’ Alberto Giacometti 78

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‘Paulette’ Lucio Fontana and ‘Buste d’homme (Lotar II)’ Alberto Giacometti in the Museo of Palazzo Vecchio

+MEGSQIXXM ERH TMIVGIH F] *SRXERE %R MRXIRWI WIRWI SJ XLI WEGVIH RSYVMWLIH XLIMV EXXVEGXMSR XS XLI MRIJJEFPI ERH YRJEXLSQEFPI [SVPH %P[E]W WIEVGLMRK JSV XLI Q]WXIV] SJ I\MWXIRGI ERH XLI QIERMRK SJ PMJI IZIR KSMRK EW JEV FEGO FIJSVI XLI FIKMRRMRK SJ GYPXYVI ERH XLI YREXXEMREFPI GSRGITX SJ XLI MRÁRMXI *SRXERE ERH +MEGSQIXXM VIJIVVIH XS ERSXLIV TPEGI [LMGL GER FI XSYGLIH F] LERH XYVRIH MRXS QEXXIV XLVSYKL ER MQEKI E FSH] E JEGI SV E KIWXYVI % HMEPSKYI [LMGL EMQW EX VEMWMRK UYIWXMSRW VEXLIV XLER TVSZMHMRK ERW[IVW WS EW XS WXMQYPEXI GVMXMGEP HIFEXI ERH YRLIEVH REVVEXMZIW [MXL VI-

KEVH XS EJÁRMXMIW SJ XLSYKLX ERH WLEVIH VIJIVIRGIW (MWTPE]IH RI\X XS IEGL SXLIV MR XLMW I\LMFMXMSR XLIMV [SVOW EGUYMVI XLI IZSGEXMZI TS[IV SJ E HVIEQ [LSWI TVIWIRGI GER SRP] FI MRXIVTVIXIH F] PSSOMRK JSV ERW[IVW [LMGL I\MWX JEV FEGO MR XMQI ERH MR XLI JYXYVI 3R XLI SGGEWMSR SJ XLMW MQTSVXERX I\LMFMXMSR XLI 1YWIS 2SZIGIRXS [MPP HIHMGEXI X[S ÂSSVW SJ XLI )\ 0ISTSPHMRI FYMPHMRK XS XLI WGYPTXYVIW ERH TEMRXMRKW F] 0YGMS *SRXERE XLI Lucio Fontana. L’origine du monde I\LMFMXMSR (2 March - 13 September) 8LI XMXPI VIGEPPW XLI JEQSYW WGERHEPSYW TEMRXMRK F] +YWXEZI 'SYVFIX ERH MRXIVTVIXW XLI

KRSWISPSKMGEP QIERMRK SJ XLEX ÿćXLGIRXYV] TEMRXMRK XLVSYKL XLI EVGLIX]TEP MRXIVTVIXEXMSR SJ IVSW EW E KIRIVEXMRK JSVGI SJ LYQER PMJI ERH XLI GSWQSW 8LI I\LMFMXMSR EVMWIW JVSQ XLI HIWMVI XS I\TPSVI WSQI EQFMKYSYW EWTIGXW SJ XLI [SVO SJ XLI -XEPMER %VKIRXMRI QEWXIV SRI SJ XLI QSWX MRRSZEXMZI EYXLSVW SJ XLI PEWX GIRXYV] WYGL EW XLI TVMQEV] VIPEXMSRWLMT FIX[IIR EVXMWXMG GVIEXMSR TVSGVIEXMSR ERH XLI FMVXL SJ PMJI MR XLI YRMZIVWI ERH XLI VIPEXMSRWLMT FIX[IIR XLI ÁRMXI ERH XLI MRÁRMXI -X [MPP MRGPYHI HVE[MRKW TEMRXMRKW ERH WGYPTXYVIW JVSQ ÿćĂĄ XS XLI PEWX ]IEVW SJ LMW PSRK GEVIIV 79

‘Portrait of Eleonora di Toledo with her son Giovanni’, Agnolo Bronzino 80

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THE FLORENTINE SPANIARD At Palazzo Pitti, the first great exhibition devoted to Eleonora di Toledo TEXT Virginia Mammoli

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Eleonora di Toledo was a politically powerful woman and passionate patron of the arts

Eleonora di Toledo, who arrived in Florence in 1539 at the age of seventeen, was the first of the many influential, powerful and strong women who left a lasting mark on the Medicis’ court. A beauty icon, a fashion innovator and trendsetter in her day, a politically powerful woman and passionate patron of the arts. An extraordinary figure described at the exhibition, showing until May 14, Eleonora di Toledo, the Grande Dame of the Sixteenth Century, held in the sumptuous spaces of Palazzo Pitti, organized by Uffizi Galleries and curated by art historian and teacher at the 82

New York University Florence Bruce Edelstein.

Over one hundred works on show- including paintings, sculptures, drawings, tapestries and luxurious clothing and jewelry - describe her life and the cultural impact that she had on her time and on Florence: suffice is to mention Palazzo Vecchio, decorated by some of the major artists of her day to house her apartments, and the Boboli Gardens and Palazzo Pitti, which she purchased in 1550 with her own money and transformed according to her taste and design. The wife of Cosimo de’ Medici, she worked closely

with him to realize important goals: strengthen the State’s stability and ensure that her eldest son, Francesco, succeeded to the throne and that her second son, Giovanni, obtained a cardinalate, while upgrading Cosimo’s title from Duke to Grand Duke, a goal achieved only after Eleonora’s premature death at the age of 40 from tuberculosis. The exhibition is divided in seven sections.

Childhood at the Court of Naples, a very important city in the early 1500s, where her father, Pedro de Toledo, served as Viceroy and her mother, Maria Osorio

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aaa

The Queen of Fashion in Florence in the 1500s 83

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‘Giovane divinità fluviale accompagnata da tre putti’, Pierino da Vinci and ‘La Maddalena’, Tiziano 84

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The exhibition is divided in seven sections

Pimentel, played a very important role at the Imperial Court. This section showcases the Portrait of Pedro de Toledo as the Knight of the Order of Santiago by Tiziano Vecellio.

The arrival in Florence, sumptuously celebrated, as the wife of Cosimo whom she married by proxy in Naples. The marriage helped strengthen the Medicis’ political position on the international scene. Among the works, the Drawing for the ephemeral monument to Giovanni delle Bande Nere by Niccolò Tribolo.

Eleonora’s Eleven Children, including the heir to the throne, her second-born,

who was conceived following a pilgrimage to the Franciscan sanctuary of Verna, which is the reason why he was named Francesco. On show here is one of Eleonora’s most famous portraits: Portrait of Eleonora di Toledo with her son Giovanni by Agnolo Bronzino.

Eleonora and Art, the Duchess was a passionate patron of the arts and collaborated closely with artists of the caliber of Bronzino, Bachiacca, Vasari, Stradano and Salviati, who designed the tapestry showcased here.

The Queen of Fashion in Florence in the 1500s, the stars of these rooms are magnificent garments and two dual por-

traits by Bronzino in which the Princess is portrayed alongside her elder son Francesco and her second son Giovanni.

Love of Gardens and the ‘Creation’ of Boboli, the fruit of her passion for green spaces led to the achievement of what is considered to be her greatest “work”, the Boboli Garden. On show here the Young River God with Three Putti by Pierino da Vinci.

Eleonora’s Heritage, the final section of the exhibition is devoted to Eleonora’s economic and cultural heritage including, among the works of art, the Portrait of Eleonora di Toledo attributed to Alessandro Allori.

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Unique dishes and flavours 86

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SPRING ON A PLATE

Seasonal dishes to sample in Florence’s best-known restaurants TEXT Martina Olivieri

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N O I T C E L E S R U O Y R T T S U M F O DISHES

F

lorence is a distillation of unique dishes and flavours that go far beyond the classics of steak, ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, tripe and lampredotto.

This is food from the distant past, from a tradition of simple yet high-quality ingredients, now interlaced with the most delicious modern touches. Especially at this time to year, menus feature fresher, more joyful options that encapsulate the most authentic flavours of spring. From 88

HOME - MADE PASTA TO MEAT-BASED MAINS OR FISH AND TIMELESS CLASSICS. COME WITH US AND FIND OUT WHAT TO EAT IN SPRING AT SOME OF FLORENCE’S TOP RESTAURANTS

home-made pasta to meat-based mains that delight the eyes and the mind, fish so fresh it will take you straight to the sea for a moment, and timeless classics like properly cooked Florentine steak, the kitchens of the best-known restaurants wake up and magically produce dishes that are true masterpieces. But where to go?

From famous fine-dining establishments to traditional trattorias, come with us and find out what to eat in spring at some of Florence’s top restaurants.

BISTECCA ALLA FIORENTINA BUCA LAPI

DI “NONNA L A S A G N E T TA BUCA MARIO I S A B E L L A ”ry-buca or cellar, you

In a 16th-centu Mario. cuisine of Buca can enjoy the a di ett d the Lasagn We recommen dish l na io it ”: a trad “Nonna Isabella ioned sh fa dol h it w ous that’s synonym a om prepared fr family cooking, ons wn for generati do ed recipe hand ho to the person w and dedicated ial and ec sp so nt ra made the restau Ottaviani, 16r). zza welcoming (Pia

TRADITIONAL TUSCAN CUISINE WITH A MODERN TWIST Se·· sto on Arno (ph. Dario Garofalo) Se

Opened in 1880 in the cellars of Palazzo Antinori, this restaurant preserves over a century of history thanks to a meticulous restoration, and is the kingdom of the Bistecca alla Fiorentina, cut at least four fingers thick.

The meat is mostly from Italian white steers of the Chianina or Marchigiana breeds, cooked over the red-hot embers of olive wood (Via del Trebbio, 1r).

EGGS FLORENTINE EN COCOTTE WITH TRUFFLE T R AT T O R I A 4 L E O N I

With its classy convivial ambience, Trattoria 4 Leoni honours traditional Tuscan cuisine, without forgetting a touch of the mod ern.

The dishes are guaranteed to impress , including Eggs Florentine en cocotte with truffle (Via de’ Vellutini, 1r).

GNUDI ALLA FIORENTINA C A N T I N E T TA A N T I N O R I

TA G L I E R I N I PEAS WITH FRESH AMMILLO T R AT T O R I A C lunch

working Whether it’s a catch-up, a al or an inform t or a cultural visi break during ia or att Tr , er nn an intimate di guests ed m co el w s Cammillo ha style for over in its timeless t food is the mos 70 years. The is th at d an , an authentic Tusc u absolutely time of year yo s the Taglierini shouldn’t mis with fresh peas po, 57r).

(Borgo S. Jaco

OUR TOUR TO DISCOVER THE SPRING DISHES NOT TO BE MISSED

The ground floor of Palazzo Antinori is home to Cantinetta Antinori, the perfect place to sample the wines of the Antinori estates alongside typical Tuscan specialities. These include Gnudi alla Fiorentina (Florentine dumplings), made from a traditional recipe and flavoured with nutmeg and lemon peel (Piazza degli Antinori, 3).

B E AT E N E G G S T R AT T O R I A S O S TA N Z A

An authentic Tuscan inn where lunc h can be a moving experience. Here you have to try the Artichoke tort ino, a dish that looks and tastes like no other. Beaten eggs are cooked over the wood fire to line the edges of the pan , where they form a golden frame for the artichokes frying in the centre (Via del Porcellana, 25r).

FOOD

S TA ILLONI PA S U F E T I EGG WH O nding IL PALAGI ens surrou

ncient gard neSet in the a enze, the o s Hotel Fir by n so ed d ea S ea r h u o io F Il Palag ed you rr ta er ff -s o in ady to Michel ezzini is re av h L it lo W o ? a w P chef g. Ho able evenin fusilloni an unforgett ishes like Egg white d ed n a el ll efruit d unpara bster, grap lo er p ti, 99). ip sl , pasta (Borgo Pin etra caviar si O ri ve ia G

RISOTTO WITH ASPARAGUS AND SPRING SHOOTS HARRY’S BAR

Timeless style and grand tradition in a tasteful contemporary setting. Harry’s Bar is an elegant place to treat yourself to a fine dinner and a memorable experience. The spring dish to order has to be the Risotto with asparagus and spring shoots (Lungarno Amerigo Vespucci, 22r).

MACCHERONCETTI A LLA RUSTICA OSTERIA DELLE TRE PANCHE Elegant yet functi

onal, Osteria delle Tre panche at Hotel Hermitage offers food inspired by the local are a, with outstanding dishes fea turing truffles and mu ch more.

At this time of year you can choose the Macch eroncetti alla rustica, on the me nu since 1986 (Vicolo Ma rzio, 1).

M I D D AY & M I D N I G H T S P A G H E T TATA - O S T E R I A G U C C I

A creative and elegant culinary philosophy with one foot in tradition and the other in constant evolution. At Gucci Osteria different worlds and flavours intertwine to create dishes that are innovative and always extraordinary, like the Midday & Midnight Spaghettata, with spaghettini, artichoke ceviche and mint (Piazza Della Signoria, 10).

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RED MULLET IN SAFFRON BREAD C R U S T - S A N TA E L I S A B E T TA

F THE CARPACCIO OF BEE I L S A N T O B E V I T O R E here

The talent of chef Rocco de Santis at the twoMichelin-starred Santa Elisabetta is showcased in the beautiful Byzantine Pagliazza Tower inside the charming Brunelleschi Hotel. The food is pure, essential and minimalist, like the fabulous Red Mullet in Saffron Bread Crust (Piazza Santa Elisabetta, 3).

The simple, convivial atmosp you of a Tuscan trattoria where of ful our flav st mo the can enjoy d with more ate upd e, sin cui l ona diti tra cult dish for contemporary versions. A f, ponzu, bee of cio pac Car spring? The shoots… and capers, marinated egg yolk try it to believe it! .

(Via di Santo Spirito, 64/66)

CONVIVIAL AMBIENCE OF A TUSCAN PLACE 92

IL CARCIOFO CIBRÈO RISTORANTE & C O C K TA I L B A R

At Cibrèo Ristorante & Cocktail Bar in the Starhotels Helvetia & Bristol Firenze, the spring menu offers seas onal vegetable dishes that are irresisti ble.

Among the stand-out dishes is il Carciofo, an artichoke heart vacu umcooked, filled with a foam of peco rino romano and parsley and dressed with olive oil flavoured with roasted artichoke, creating a delicious sauc e (Via dei Pescioni, 2).

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Florence as seen from the Dome (ph. Giuseppe Mondi) 94

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TOP PLACES TO SEE IN FLORENCE Museums, churches and all the attractions that you should not miss in city.

Reservations are recommended in some museums, ask your ‘Les Clefs D’Or’ concierge

MUSEUMS 1

UFFIZI GALLERIES

Florence’s museum complex consisting of the Uffizi Gallery, the Vasari Corridor, Palazzo Pitti and the Boboli Gardens. The Uffizi Gallery is one of the world’s greatest museums, built in 1560 by Cosimo I de’ Medici, and houses works by the greatest Renaissance artists, from Botticelli to Leonardo da Vinci, from Michelangelo to Raphael and Titian.

Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6 ph. +39 055 294883 uffizi.it Closed on Monday 2

PALAZZO PITTI

The royal residence of three families: the Medicis, the

Habsburg-Lorraines and the Savoias. Palazzo Pitti is still named after its first owner, the Florentine banker Luca Pitti. It currently houses some of the city’s most important museums: the Palatine Gallery with masterworks by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto, Caravaggio and Rubens, the Imperial and Royal Apartments on the Palazzo’s main floors (now temporarily closed), the Modern Art Gallery featuring works by Macchiaolo painters, the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the Fashion and Costume Museum (now temporarily closed), the Porcelain Museum, the Carriages Museum and the new Museum of Russian Icons. The Palace is completed by the Boboli Garden.

Piazza de’ Pitti, 1 ph. +39 055 294883 uffizi.it Closed on Monday 3

Signoria and later enlarged

by Vasari as the Medici family’s residence. Among the must-see sixteenth-century rooms are the grand Salone dei Cinquecento, Francesco I’s small secret study, the Hall of the Lilies and the Hall of Geographical Maps. The Palace is crowned by the Tower of Arnolfo.

Piazza della Signoria ph. +39 055 2768224 cultura.comune.fi.it

OPERA DEL DUOMO MUSEUM 4

A journey through the places and artists who created the monumental Opera complex, the cradle of the Renaissance, and today one of the world’s most important museums. Its showcases the original works of art that de-

PALAZZO VECCHIO

Designed in 1299 by Arnolfo di Cambio as Palazzo della

Galleria dell’Accademia Palazzo Strozzi

Uffizi Galleries

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Ponte Vecchio 97

Via San Giuseppe 5R Firenze | ph. (+39) 055.244.533/4 www.scuoladelcuoio.com

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corated the city’s monuments over seven centuries: from Michelangelo to Donatello, Brunelleschi, Ghiberti and many more.

Piazza del Duomo, 9 ph. +39 055 2302885 duomo.firenze.it Closed every first Tuesday of the month

GALLERIA DELL’ACCADEMIA 5

It is also known as ‘Michelangelo’s Museum’, because it showcases most of the statues by the famous artist, first of all, the David, but also the Prigioni, St. Matthew and the Palestrina Pietà.

Other masterworks are the Rape of the Sabine Women

by Giambologna and Botticelli’s Madonna with Child and Madonna of the Sea. Via Ricasoli, 58/60 ph. +39 055 294883 galleriaaccademiafirenze.it Closed on Monday 6

PALAZZO STROZZI

A masterwork of Renaissance architecture and a lively cultural center of international standing, which every year houses exhibitions ranging from ancient to modern and contemporary art.

Piazza Strozzi ph. +39 055 2645155 palazzostrozzi.org

Palazzo Pitti

verted into a museum which today showcases major works of art by Michelangelo, Donatello, Verrocchio, Giambologna, Brunelleschi and much more.

Via del Proconsolo, 4 ph. +39 055 0649440 bargellomusei.beniculturali.it Closed on Tuesdays and on the 2nd and 4th Sunday of the month 8

MEDICI CHAPELS

and consist of Michelangelo’s New Sacristy, Buontalenti’s Chapel of the Princes and the two crypts with the tombs of the Medici and Lorraine family members.

Piazza di Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6 ph. +39 055 0649430 bargellomusei.beniculturali.it Closed on Tuesdays and on the 1st, 3rd and 5th Sunday of the month

They are part of the complex of the Church of San Lorenzo

Medici Chapels

MUSEO NAZIONALE DEL BARGELLO 7

Once the city’s main prison, in 1865 the building was con-

Opera del Duomo Museum

Palazzo Vecchio

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Museo Novecento

MUSEO DI SAN MARCO 9

It was Savonarola’s home and in addition to the exhibition halls, you can also visit the cells containing frescoes by Beato Angelico, who was also a monk here.

Piazza San Marco, 3 ph. +39 055 0882000 polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it Closed on the 1st , 3rd and 5th

Sunday of the month, on Mondays following the open Sunday

PALAZZO MEDICI RICCARDI 10

Designed by Michelozzo, the Palace houses the Magi Chapel with the famous frescoes of the Journey of the Magi by Benozzo Gozzoli.

Via Cavour, 3 ph. +39 055 2760552 palazzomediciriccardi.it Closed on Wednesdays

Innocenti Museum

STEFANO BARDINI MUSEUM 11

The collection of the most important Italian antiquarian.

From the Romans to the 18th century.

Via dei Renai, 37 ph. +39 055 2342427 cultura.comune.fi.it Closed on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays 12

STIBBERT MUSEUM

A historic house museum featuring an extensive collection of arms, armors, costumes and objects of various ages and origin, collected by Frederick Stibbert throughout his life.

Via Federigo Stibbert, 26 ph. +39 055 475520 museostibbert.it Closed on Thursdays

CASA DI DANTE MUSEUM 13

Gucci Museum

100

Salvatore Ferragamo Museum

The museum aims to make Dante and the everyday life

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in medieval Florence better known to the public. The various rooms showcase replicas of objects and clothing commonly used in the 1300s.

Via Santa Margherita, 1 ph. +39 055 219416 museocasadidante.it Closed on Mondays 14

MUSEO NOVECENTO

The museum is devoted to 20th and 21st-century Italian art. In addition to a permanent collection, it houses temporary exhibitions, installations and special projects.

Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 10 ph. +39 0552768224 museonovecento.it Closed on Thursdays

INNOCENTI MUSEUM 15

The museum illustrates the past and present of the Innocenti Institute, committed to the promotion of children’s rights for six centuries, through art and history.

Piazza della SS. Annunziata, 13

Museo di San Marco

ph. +39 055 2037122 museodeglinnocenti.it Closed on Tuesdays

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO MUSEUM 16

Established in May 1995 by the Ferragamo family for the purpose of making Ferragamo’s role in the history of footwear and international fashion better known.

Palazzo Spini Feroni Piazza Santa Trinita, 5/r ph. +39 055 3562846 +39 055 3562466 ferragamo.com/museo/it 17

Via Ghibellina, 70 ph. +39 055 241752 casabuonarroti.it Closed on Tuesdays and Easter holidays 18

GUCCI MUSEUM

The museum illustrates the fashion house’s 90-year history. From Gucci’s origins to its most iconic models that have become must-haves all over the world, to the logo’s history.

Piazza della Signoria, 10 ph. +39 055 75927010 gucci.com/it

CASA BUONARROTI

The museum is devoted to the memory and celebration of Michelangelo’s genius through drawings, paintings and sculptures.

Palazzo Medici Riccardi Stibbert Museum

Stefano Bardini Museum

101

Details of the Uffizi Galleries (ph. Ottavia Poli)

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PAGE 162

tury antiques, sculptures and paintings.

Via dei Benci, 6 ph. + 39 055 244661 museohorne.it

CHURCHES OPERA DI SANTA MARIA DEL FIORE COMPLEX 22

Santa Croce

NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM OF FLORENCE 19

The museum showcases finds from excavations all over Tuscany, very precious Etruscan and Roman finds, and collections related to other civilizations.

Piazza SS. Annunziata, 9b ph. +39 055 23575 polomusealetoscana.beniculturali.it

Closed on the 2nd , 3rd , 4th and 5th Sunday of the month

FRANCO ZEFFIRELLI MUSEUM 20

The museum is part of the Zeffirelli Foundation and Monumental Complex of San Firenze. It showcases over 250 works by Maestro Zeffirelli, including stage sketches, drawings and costume plates, playbills and studies.

Piazza San Firenze, 5 ph. +39 055 2658435 fondazionefrancozeffirelli.com Closed on Mondays 21

HORNE MUSEUM

The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore was designed by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1296 and it is the world’s third largest church after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. Paul’s in London. In 1412, it was dedicated to Santa Maria del Fiore with a clear reference to the lily, the city’s symbol (closed on Sundays). The Dome was designed by Brunelleschi many years later, in 1420, and decorated by Giorgio Vasari and Federico Zuccari. It is a masterwork of art and to this day the largest masonry dome ever built, surrounded by outdoor terraces open to visitors. Opposite the Cathedral is the Baptistery of San Giovanni, accessed through

Established by the bequest of Herbert Percy Horne, the museum reconstructs the rooms of a typical old Florentine house, with 14th and 15th-cen-

Brancacci Chapel, Church of Santa Maria del Carmine Orsanmichele

104

Santa Maria Novella

The Tabernacle of the Altar of San Miniato (ph. Dario Garofalo)

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PAGE 162

three doors, the most important of which is the Gate of Paradise, located on the main façade. Giotto’s bell tower, 84,7 meters high and about 15 meters wide, is one of the most important examples of 14th-century Florentine Gothic art. Do not miss the Opera del Duomo Museum.

Piazza del Duomo ph. +39 055 2645789 duomo.firenze.it

COMPLEX OF SANTA CROCE 23

It houses several frescoes

by Giotto, the Crucifix by Cimabue, works by Donatello and Orcagna.

Piazza Santa Croce, 16 ph. +39 055 2466105 santacroceopera.it

BASILICA OF SANTO SPIRITO 24

Designed by Filippo Brunelleschi, it houses works by the greatest Florentine artists, including the wooden Crucifix, an early work by Michelangelo.

Piazza di Santo Spirito, 30 ph. +39 055 210030 basilicasantospirito.it Closed on Wednesdays

Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore

with frescoes by Paolo Uccello.

Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18 ph. +39 055 219257 smn.it

COMPLEX OF SAN LORENZO 26

It includes the Basilica, the Laurentian Library and the magnificent cloister and houses many artistic treasures, such as works by Donatello, Bronzino, Filippo Lippi, Michelangelo and Brunelleschi.

Piazza San Lorenzo, 9

MONUMENTAL COMPLEX OF SANTA MARIA NOVELLA

ph. +39 055 214042 operamedicealaurenziana.org

CHURCH OF SANTA MARIA DEL CARMINE AND BRANCACCI CHAPEL 27

In the heart of the Oltrarno neighborhood, the Carmelite Church and Convent of Santa Maria del Carmine houses the Brancacci Chapel and the famous frescoes by Masaccio,

25

The Basilica of Santa Maria Novella houses The Holy Trinity by Masaccio, the Crucifix by Giotto and Brunelleschi, frescoes

by Ghirlandaio and Botticelli.

Do not miss the Green Cloister

106

Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore

Basilica of Santo Spirito

Santa Croce

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tian worship. It now contains sculptures by Donatello and Ghiberti and a beautiful marble Tabernacle dedicated to the Madonna delle Grazie.

Via dell’Arte della Lana ph. +39 055 0649450 bargellomusei.beniculturali.it Open only on Tuesday mornings and Saturday afternoons

ABBEY OF SAN MINIATO AL MONTE 30

Via de’Tornabuoni

Masolino and Filippino Lippi.

One of the city’s major landmarks since the 13th century.

Piazza del Carmine ph. +39 055 2768224 cultura.comune.fi.it Closed on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays

BASILICA OF SANTISSIMA ANNUNZIATA 28

A place rich in art, devotion and local history. Florence’s

main Marian sanctuary, the mother church of the Servite Order. The church is located on the piazza by the same name, next to the Spedale degli Innocenti.

Piazza della SS. Annunziata ph. +39 055 266181 annunziata.xoom.it

CHURCH OF ORSANMICHELE 29

Originally a grain market, in the mid-1300s the building was consecrated to Chris-

Built between the 11th and 13th centuries, the church is a masterwork of the Florentine Romanesque style. The façade is in green and white marble, the interior houses precious works such as the Crucifix Chapel by Michelozzo with glazed earthenware vaulting by Luca della Robbia.

Via delle Porte Sante, 34 ph. +39 055 2342731 sanminiatoalmonte.it

BASILICA OF SANTA TRINITA 31

One of the first Gothic churches in Florence. The façade was rebuilt in the 1500s by Bernardo Buontalenti, the Sassetti Chapel is a work by Ghirlandaio.

Piazza di Santa Trinita

CHURCH OF OGNISSANTI 32

Abbey San Miniato al Monte

Oltrarno

Jewish Synagogue

Located on Piazza Ognissanti, the Church was built in 1251 and belonged to the conventual complex of the Umiliati order, replaced with the Franciscan order in 1571. Not to be missed Giotto’s Crucifix and

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Stunning scenery from San Miniato (ph. Lorenzo Cotrozzi) 108

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San Miniato al Monte

Botticelli’s Tomb.

Borgo Ognissanti, 42 ph. +39 375 5652013 chiesaognissanti.it Closed on Wednesdays

showcases a rich collection of Jewish artistic ritual objects.

Via Luigi Carlo Farini, 6 ph. +39 0552989879 jewishflorence.it

JEWISH SYNAGOGUE AND MUSEUM 33

TOP ATTRACTIONS

Closed on Saturdays 34

Established in 1882 in the Mattonaia neighborhood, the Synagogue is the heart of the local Jewish community and an integral part of the city’s history. The museum

PONTE VECCHIO

Built in 1345, it is Europe’s oldest stone bridge. Once lined with butcher’s shops, today Ponte Vecchio is home to the city’s luxury jewelry boutiques. The Vasari Corridor, which connects Palazzo Vecchio and Palazzo Pitti, runs above it. During World War Two, it was the only bridge in Florence that was not destroyed by the Germans.

35

The monument located on Piazza della Signoria to the right of Palazzo Vecchio and next to the Uffizi Gallery, which adjoins it at the back with a terrace at the top of the Loggia dei Lanzi. It is also known as Loggia dei Priori or dell’Orcagna and houses precious works of art such as the Perseus by Benvenuto Cellini, The Rape of the Sabine Women and the Hercules and Nessus

by Giambologna.

Piazza della Signoria 36

The

SHOPPING

best-known

fashion

LOGGIA DEI LANZI

Loggia dei Lanzi Ponte Vecchio

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Forte Belvedere

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39

Piazza Santo Spirito

houses have their boutiques and shops on Via de’ Tornabuoni and Via della Vigna.

The other shopping streets are located just a few meters away from the city’s main attractions. And so, by walking from the Duomo to Piazza della Signoria, you will be able to browse and shop at the many stores along Via Calzaiuoli and Via del Corso. Be sure to visit the Ponte Vecchio lined with sparkling jewelry shops.

37

CRAFT SHOPS

It is the other side of Florence, the traditional one, oozing with the creativity and colors of craft shops. It is Florence’s Oltrarno, the neighborhood of old arts and crafts. The San Frediano, San Niccolò and Santo Spirito areas are filled with goldsmith’s workshops that work and assemble gemstones to create unique and extraordinary jewels.

38

ANTIQUE SHOPS

Via Maggio and Via dei Fossi are the streets where the ancient techniques of etching, metalworking and furniture and frame gilding are still performed. Workshops that attract customers from all over the world and keep the tradition of pottery, wood carving and decoration alive.

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FORTE BELVEDERE

Besides being one of the city’s most panoramic locations, it is an architectural work designed in the late 1500s by Bernardo Buontalenti for Ferdinando I de’ Medici. It is the Vasari Corridor’s final stretch and it has been housing international contemporary art exhibitions since 2013.

Via di S. Leonardo, 1 ph. +39 055 2768224 musefirenze.it Open from June to October, closed on Mondays

LOGGIA DEL PORCELLINO 40

Loggia del Porcellino is the common name for Florence’s Loggia del Mercato Nuovo, so called to distinguish it from the Mercato Vecchio, which was located in the area of today’s Piazza della Repubblica.

The Loggia’s focal point has been, since 1640, the Fontana del Porcellino ( the piglet fountain), actually a replica of the seventeenth-century bronze wild boar by Pietro Tacca currently showcased at the Stefano Bardini Museum.

Piazza del Duomo Tower of San Niccolò

Piazzale Michelangelo

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Piazza Pitti

SQUARES & TOWERS 22

PIAZZA DEL DUOMO

The heart of the city where you can admire all together the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Brunelleschi’s dome, Giotto’s bell tower and the Baptistery of San Giovanni.

PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA 3

The square’s current design dates back to the 13th century and it was paved in the late 14th century. It has always been the symbol of the city’s civil power. Its most iconic building is Palazzo Vecchio, with a replica of Michelangelo’s David at the entrance and next to the Loggia dei Lanzi.

In the middle of the piazza is the Fountain of Neptune, also known as the Biancone, with its central statue designed by Bartolomeo Ammannati.

112

2

PIAZZA PITTI

Nearly completely dominated by the imposing Palazzo Pitti, it is one of the major piazzas of the Oltrarno neighborhood.

PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA 41

The heart of the city since ancient Roman times. Rising in the middle of the square is the Column of Abundance, which marks the point where the main ancient Roman roads,

the Cardus and Decumanus, intersected. Today some of the city’s most popular cafés are located on the piazza.

PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO 42

Designed by architect Giuseppe Poggi. Standing in the middle of the square are the Monument to Michelangelo, composed of the bronze replicas of the four

Piazza Santa Croce

Piazza della Signoria

Piazza della Repubblica

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sermons preached by the Carmelites, who owned the Basilica of Santa Maria del Carmine facing the piazza.

PIAZZA SAN FIRENZE 43

The square was named after the complex of San Filippo Neri, also known as San Firenze due to the mispronouncing of the name of a pre-existing building dedicated to San Fiorenzo.

TOWER OF SAN NICCOLÒ 44

Rose Garden

allegories of the San Lorenzo Medici Chapels, and the imposing David, the original statue being kept at the Accademia Gallery.

PIAZZA SANTA CROCE 23

It owes its name to the basilica, one of Italy’s largest Franciscan churches. Located in front of the basilica is the monument to Dante Alighieri by Enrico Pazzi.

24

SPIRITO

Crowded with market stalls, tourists and art students during the day, Piazza Santo Spirito is one of the focal points of the city’s nightlife.

Standing on one side of the piazza is the monument to Cosimo Ridolfi.

27

PIAZZA DEL CARMINE

This square was built to allow the crowds to hear the

PIAZZA SANTO

Bardini Garden

Horticulture Garden

Rose Garden

The name derives from the nearby neighborhood of San Niccolò, and it was built in 1324 probably to the design of Orcagna, while the last circle of walls was being erected.

It is the only Florentine gate which has preserved its original height.

GARDENS & PARKS

apertura 45

BOBOLI GARDENS

The Boboli Gardens spreads out at the back of Palazzo Pitti. The Medici family planned the garden’s layout by creating the model for the Italian garden. An open-air museum, filled with statues, grottos (including the one designed by Buontalenti) and large fountains, such as the Neptune and Ocean fountains.

Piazza de’ Pitti, 1 ph. +39 055 294883 uffizi.it Closed on the first and last Mon-

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+39 389 4996 747 / +39 055 4932 280 info@ecotoursitalia.it www.ecotoursitaly.com Firenze - Via De Girolami 8/r - 50122 FOR RESERVATIONS ASK YOUR “LES CLEFS D’OR” CONCIERGE

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day of the month, except from June to October 46

BARDINI GARDEN

On one side the beautiful Baroque staircase, the English wood and the agricultural park where a wonderful wisteria pergola blooms in spring; on the other, the villa built in the 1600s by architect Gherardo Silvani, also called Villa Belvedere because of its wonderful panoramic position, and later enlarged by Stefano Bardini.

Via dei Bardi, 1r and Costa San Giorgio, 2 ph. +39 055 2638599 +39 055 2346988 villabardini.it Villa closed on Mondays, garden closed on the first and last Monday of the month 47

ROSE GARDEN

Located beneath Piazzale Michelangelo, the Rose Garden features over 350 varieties of roses which bloom from May to June and 12 sculptures by Belgian architect Jean-Michel Folon.

Viale Giuseppe Poggi, 2 48

HORTICULTURE

Bardini Garden

GARDEN

A nineteenth-century garden, the home to national floriculture shows, with a Renaissance loggia and an Art-Nouveau tepidarium.

The highest point is accessed from Via Trento through the Orti del Parnaso, also called “del Dragone” because of the odd dragon-shaped fountain winding up the staircase.

Via Vittorio Emanuele II 49

CASCINE PARK

Established as a Medicean farm in 1563 by Cosimo I, with the Lorraine family the Cascine Park became a place of entertainment and Sunday outings. Do not miss the equestrian statue to Vittorio Emanuele II, the Pegasus Col-

umn, the Pyramid and the Indian Monument.

Piazzale delle Cascine

MEDICEAN PARK OF PRATOLINO 50

Villa Demidoff was demolished in 1822, while the park still remains open to visitors and features the Apennine Colossus by Giambologna and the Cupid’s Cave by Buontalenti.

Via Fiorentina, 276 ph. +39 349 8800380 Open from April to September 51

VILLA GAMBERAIA

Boboli Gardens Cascine Park

Boboli Gardens

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Villa Gamberaia

GARDENS

MEDICI VILLA LA PETRAIA 52

The beautiful garden of Villa Gamberaia, in Settignano, spreads over several levels, where one can admire the lemon-house, a niche decorated with pebble mosaics and a spectacular modern parterre.

Via del Rossellino, 72 ph. +39 347 2386326 villagamberaia.com

MEDICI VILLAS

An ancient fortress whose tower still stands, belonging first to the Brunelleschi family and later to the Strozzis, La Petraia was bequeathed by Cosimo I de Medici to his son, the cardinal Ferdinando, in 1568 and later converted into an elegant Renaissance residence.

The villa is surrounded by a large English-style park.

Via della Petraia, 40 tel. +39 055 452691 villegiardinimedicei.it Closed Mondays

1477. The villa was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2013, and is currently home to the Accademia della Crusca; the garden is a prototype of 16th-century Italian design.

Via di Castello, 44 tel. +39 055 452691 villegiardinimedicei.it Temporarily closed

MEDICI VILLA OF POGGIO A CAIANO 54

Designed by Giuliano da Sangallo for Lorenzo the Magnificent, as an example of Renaissance archi-

MEDICI VILLA OF CASTELLO 53

One of the oldest country residences of the Medici family, who acquired it in

Villa Gamberaia Park of Pratolino

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Villa of Castello

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Villa la Ferdinanda

tecture. The splendid Sala di Leone X on the piano nobile is astonishing; the second floor is devoted to the Still Life Museum, and the gardens outside are dominated by a 19th-century lemon house.

Piazza de’ Medici,14 tel. +39 055 877012 villegiardinimedicei.it Closed Mondays, Thursdays and the 1st, 4th and last Sunday of the month

villegiardinimedicei.it Open subject to booking

MEDICI VILLA IN FIESOLE 56

The first example of a Renaissance villa, this became the inspiration for numerous other residences. After the Medicis, the marquise Del Sera turned the western terrace into a loggia, while the lower terraced area was home to

the vegetable garden, with aromatic plants for household use.

Via Beato Angelico, 2 villegiardinimedicei.it Garden may be visited by appointment

MEDICI VILLA LA FERDINANDA 55

Built in 1596 on the orders of Grand Duke Ferdinando I de’ Medici and to a design

by Bernardo Buontalenti, Villa La Ferdinanda is also known as the Villa of a Hundred Chimneys, for the numerous chimney pots that make the building unique.

Viale Papa Giovanni XXIII, 1 tel. +39 333/9418333

Medici Villa in Fiesole

Medici Villa la Petraia

Medici Villa 117 of Poggio a Caiano

Arcetri Observatory (ph. Ottavia Poli)

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Giardino dell’Orticoltura (ph. Ottavia Poli) 119

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PAGE 162

The indoor Sant’Ambrogio market, built on the site of a large vegetable garden beyond Santa Croce towards the city walls, was inaugurated in 1873 and today houses grocery stores.

Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti ph. +39 055 2480778 mercatosantambrogio.it Closed on Sundays and public holidays

PORCELLINO MARKET 59

San Lorenzo Market

MARKETS SAN LORENZO MARKET 57

The historic San Lorenzo Market spreads over two floors. The ground floor is full of stalls selling food of all sorts, whereas the first floor houses restaurants, pizzerias, shops and tables where you can sit down and eat. The streets sur-

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rounding the building are lined with traditional artisan workshops, wine bars and osterias.

Piazza del Mercato Centrale and Via dell’Ariento mercatocentrale.it/firenze ph. Mercato Centrale +39 055 265742 +39 055 2741150

SANT’AMBROGIO MARKET 58

It is commonly called Mercato Nuovo to distinguish it from the Mercato Vecchio, which was located in the area of today’s Piazza della Repubblica. The name Mercato del Porcellino comes from the statue of a wild boar that the Florentines call “porcellino” (piglet). It is covered by an old loggia which was designed

by Giovanni Battista del Tasso and built in 1547.

Piazza del Mercato Nuovo mercatodelporcellino.it 60

FLEA MARKET

Until a few years ago, the market was located in the historic Piazza dei Ciompi. In 2019, it was moved to a permanent structure just steps away from the Sant’Ambrogio market. You can shop there for antiques, collectibles, paintings, books and second-hand items.

Largo Pietro Annigoni

San Lorenzo Market

RESTAURANTS

BEST FOOD EXPERIENCES

The best restaurants, aperitifs and cafes in Florence.

Reservation recommended, the ‘Les Clefs D’Or’ concierge is at your service

TYPICAL RESTAURANTS 1

BUCA DELL’ORAFO

By going down the steps of a 13th -century palazzo only a stone’s throw from the Uffizi Gallery, you’ll walk into a historic Florentine ‘buca’, one of the smallest and coziest in town, a landmark for traditional Tuscan cuisine. Delicious ribollita soup, Sangiovannese-style stew and fried chicken, but the signature dishes are artichoke frittata and chine of pork with potatoes.

2

BUCA LAPI

The newspapers and posters that the cabmen once used as tablecloths now cover completely the walls of the dining room of this historic “buca”. The owner and chef Luciano Ghinassi is an ambassador of traditional Tuscan and Florentine cuisine.

Excellent pasta dishes and homemade desserts, in addition to a fabulous T-bone steak cooked over an olive wood-burning fire.

3

BUCA MARIO

A typical corner of Florence of bygone days in the former wine cellars of Palazzo Niccolini (a few steps from Piazza Santa Maria Novella), which has been offering its customers traditional Florentine dishes - Ribollita, Pappardelle pasta with wild boar sauce and a spectacular T-bone steak cooked over a lava stone, strictly rare - since 1886.

Via dei Girolami, 28r ph. +39 055 213619 Via del Trebbio, 1r ph. +39 055 213768 bucalapi.com

Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16r ph. +39 055 214179 bucamario.com

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RESTAURANTS

Piazza degli Antinori, 3 ph. +39 055 292234 cantinetta-antinori.com

Via del Verrocchio, 8r ph. +39 055 2341100 cibreo.com

Via Ricasoli, 5/7r ph. +39 055 292124 bucaniccolini.it

6 4

BUCA NICCOLINI

Buca Niccolini is a genuine landmark in the heart of Florence, a restaurant with a romantic mood expressed in ancient tradition with links to art and culture. Past and present come together, giving rise to dishes with authentic flavours, to be paired with a broad selection of fine wines.

Once you’ve eaten here, you’ll never forget the mouthwatering aromas of traditional Florentine food.

7

CANTINETTA ANTINORI 5

A name you can trust. This restaurant on the ground floor of Palazzo Antinori is one of Florence’s best known dining spots. The extensive list of Antinori wines accompanies the dishe, which are a celebration of seasonal and local ingredients. Among the signature dishes are Florentine-style gnudi and rosemary-flavored Tuscan beef tagliata.

Rem ex et officia dunt.

CIBRÈO RISTORANTE

A restaurant that has been changing with the seasons since 1979. Started by Chef Fabio Picchi, a great ambassador of Florentine cuisine, Cibrèo Ristorante, together with Cibrèo Trattoria, was the first piece of the empire of taste that he put together in the Sant’Ambrogio neighborhood.

Fava beans in summertime, Tuscan kale in winter, chicken liver, old traditional dishes such as stuffed chicken’s neck… A skillfully achieved blend of nature and tradition.

CUCINA TORCICODA

On one side, an excellent pizzeria with wood-fired oven- which offers classic pizzas but also new and exciting ones, made with 72-hour leavened dough- on the other, a gourmet restaurant that includes more traditional dishes too, such as tortelli pasta and T-bone steak from a variety of cattle breeds: Fassona, Angus, Chianina, Scottona, Wagyu Style Kobe and Buffalo.

Via Torta, 5r ph. +39 055 2654329 cucinatorcicoda.com

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MANGIAFOCO OSTERIA TARTUFERIA 10

8

HARRY’S BAR

Paul Newman, Robin Williams, Franco Zeffirelli and Elizabeth Taylor are only some of the celebrities who, since 1953, have been dining at this historic restaurant, with outdoor seating and wonderful view of the Lungarno. Among its cult dishes, Harry’s Bar-style taglierini pasta au gratin, prawn tail curry and beef tartare, in addition to the restaurant’s signature Bellini cocktail.

Lungarno Vespucci, 22r ph. +39 055 2396700 harrysbarfirenze.it

HARRY’S BAR THE GARDEN 9

The restaurant and American bar with international atmosphere of the Sina Villa Medici Hotel, which the legendary Florentine restaurant has chosen for its second location in town. Traditional cuisine served in a lovely lush garden with swimming pool.

Via Il Prato, 42 ph. +39 055 2771704 sinahotels.com

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The Mangiafoco Osteria Tartuferia located in the heart of the city, just steps away from the Ponte Vecchio specialises in fresh truffle dishes and typical Tuscan cuisine. The local specialities are of the highest quality with locally grown and seasonal ingredients. An extensive wine list with the opportunity of premium wine tasting in the cellar.

Borgo S.S. Apostoli 24/26r ph. +39 055 2658170 mangiafoco.com

FIRENZE

TYPICAL TUSCAN CUISINE

Piazza della Signoria, 31 | ph. +39 055 284724 ȸƺɀƺȸɮƏɎǣȒȇɀ۬ǔȸƺɀƬȒƫƏǼƳǣˡ ȸƺȇɿƺِǣɎ ۴ ɯɯɯِǔȸƺɀƬȒƫƏǼƳǣˡ ȸƺȇɿƺِǣɎ @Frescobaldi_FLR

Ristorante Frescobaldi Firenze

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RESTAURANTS

Vicolo Marzio, 1 ph. +39 055 583724 osteriadelletrepanche.com

Via del Parione, 74/76r ph. +39 055 214005 parione.net

Piazza degli Scarlatti, 1r ph. +39 055 2654541 osteriabelguardo.it 11

OSTERIA BELGUARDO

In a lovely little piazza on the far bank of the Arno River, across from Palazzo Corsini, is the outdoor patio of one of the most beautiful restaurants in Florence. Stylishly designed and an open kitchen adding an cosmopolitan touch to the warm and cosy atmosphere of the classic inn, Osteria Belguardo serves a traditional menu with a modern twist, including a great variety of dishes for different times of day and appetites. With a vast wine list and a seasonal menu featuring local ingredients.

13

OSTERIA DELLE TRE PANCHE 12

The historic Florentine restaurant specialising in truffles moves to the panoramic terrace on the sixth floor of Hotel Hermitage, seemingly touching Ponte Vecchio. Behind the venture are Andrea and Vieri Bista, true masters of flavour and experts in showcasing the most precious of tubers and local cuisine in general.

PARIONE

A stone’s throw from Ponte Vecchio, in a 14th-century palazzo that connects two of Florence’s most ancient streets - Via del Parione and Via della Vigna Nuova, this is the perfect restaurant if you want to enjoy the unmistakable dishes of Tuscan tradition, prepared with love and accompanied by excellent wines from the outstanding cellar.

VIA DELLO SPRONE, 15R | +39 055 4939246 Piede enoteca 4 leoni.indd 1

27/02/23 09:25

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14

REGINA BISTECCA

Housed in a former antique bookshop, Regina Bistecca is one of the most interesting restaurants in the centre of Florence. A passion for Bistecca alla Fiorentina combines with traditional Florentine dishes. Simple, flavourful cooking using superb quality ingredients which enhance the results, and more than 150 wine labels offering a broad overview of Tuscan wine culture.

Via Ricasoli, 14r ph. +39 055 2693772 reginabistecca.com

RISTORANTE IL PAIOLO 15

Right in the city centre, only minutes away from the cathedral, Ristorante Il Paiolo has been welcoming customers for more than thirty years in a warm, comfortable place serving classic dishes of Florence and traditional country cooking made with refined quality ingredients. Florentine steaks are the unrivalled star of the show at Il Paiolo, which also boasts a long list of local, national and international wines.

Via del Corso, 42r ph. +39 055 215019 ristoranteilpaiolo.it

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16

RISTORANTE PAOLI

The long history of Ristorante Paoli began in 1827 in an evocative setting that was refurbished “in pure 14th-century style” in the early 20th century. It was a historic gathering place for intellectuals such as Leoncavallo, Puccini, Marinetti and Pirandello, and ever since has preserved all the flavour and emotion of Tuscan cuisine, which come alive in every dish.

Via dei Tavolini, 12r ph. +39 055 216215 ristorantepaoli.com

RISTORO L’ANTICA SCUDERIA 17

The restaurant is located in the Florentine Chianti countryside, next to the Abbey of Badia a Passignano. Housed in the building’s former stables, the restaurant is run by Maria, the executive chef, and her husband Stefano, who is in charge of the wine cellar stocked with one thousand wines. The menu is a celebration of the most traditional, authentic and genuine Tuscan cuisine.

Via di Passignano, 17 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa ph. + 39 055 8071623/957 ristorolanticascuderia.it

RISTORANTE SABATINI Via Panzani, 9/A, 50123 Firenze

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RESTAURANT RESTAURANTS GUIDE

Via del Porcellana, 9r ph. +39 055 284015 casatrattoria.com

Via Panzani, 9/A ph. +39 055 282802 sabatinifirenze.it

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Via de’ Vellutini, 1r ph. +39 055 218562 4leoni.it

SABATINI

The city’s biggest restaurant, with more than 1200 square metres of space in four large halls, Sabatini is a landmark in Florence dishing up quality classic Tuscan cuisine.

Designed by the architect Stigler, who furnished the restaurant in 1955 with items from a deconsecrated sixteenth-century church, Sabatini is also Italy’s only restaurant constituting a protected heritage site.

TRATTORIA 4 LEONI 20

TRATTORIA 13 GOBBI 19

In the heart of Florence’s historic centre, a place of Tuscan authenticity. The decor evokes the Florence of bygone days; the menu brings traditional cuisine together with cutting-edge experimentation. House specialities are the Rigatoni served in a glass soup bowl and the unmissable Tagliata of beef served on a wooden block.

A typical Tuscan trattoria in the centre of Florence, in the classic Piazza della Passera between Ponte Vecchio and Palazzo Pitti. The atmosphere has all the vitality of the popular neighbourhood, now with a decidedly elegant contemporary slant, which extends to the dishes. Don’t miss the 4 Leoni salad, the Pear fiocchetti in taleggio and asparagus sauce and the Peposo.

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TRATTORIA CAMMILLO

One of Florence’s most traditional trattorias, frequented by a faithful and enthusiastic local clientele. The venue is timeless, as is the cooking: ancient yet eternally youthful, traditional but never obsolete. Don’t leave without trying the Fritti, the Braciola rifatta and the home-made Tortellini.

Borgo San Jacopo, 57r ph. +39 055 212427 24

TRATTORIA NAPOLEONE 22

If you are looking for a distinct and charming location in one of Florence’s trendiest and oldest districts, the Trattoria Napoleone is ready to welcome you by ensuring you enjoy traditional dishes such as tortelli mugellani with wild boar ragu and pici senesi with a sausage ragu, the famous peposo all’imprunetina (Tuscan beef stew with black pepper) and cuts of Chianina and tomahawk steak, as well as grilled fillet with an abundance of truffle.

Piazza del Carmine, 24 ph. +39 055281015 trattorianapoleone.it

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TRATTORIA SOSTANZA 23

This is no mere restaurant, it’s a real institution. It’s the city’s most famous literary address and, even today, going for dinner at Trattoria Sostanza is like a journey back in time. Alongside the classic Bistecca alla Fiorentina, cult dishes include Artichoke tortino and Buttered chicken breast.

Via del Porcellana, 25r ph. + 39 055 212691

TRATTORIA ZÀ ZÀ

Trattoria Zà zà preserves its seventeenth-century floors, thick stone walls and vaulted ceilings. The atmosphere in the restaurant’s many rooms is a blend of history and inspiration, including not only Tuscan style but exotic, colonial and Bohemian moods, all with a cosy, welcoming feel.

The menu offers a truly vast selection combining hearty cooking with a focus on the alchemy of flavours that makes a simply good dish into a dish in which everything goes together perfectly.

Piazza del Mercato Centrale, 26r ph. +39 055 215411 trattoriazaza.it

TRATTORIA CAMMILLO Borgo San Jacopo 57/r, Firenze - 50125 TEL. +39 055 212427 | CAMMILLO@MOMAX.IT CAMMILLO@MOMAX.I T Giorni di chiusura settimanale: Martedì e Mercoledì Orari dal Giovedì al Lunedì: 12.00-14.30 e 19:30 - 22:30

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RESTAURANTS

Borgo San Jacopo, 62r ph. +39 055 281661 lungarnocollection.com

FINE DINING

Via del Corso, 6 ph. +39 055 5353555 chicnonna.com 27

Piazza dei Nerli, 8/9r ph. +39 055 7602982 atelierdenerli.it 26 25

ATELIER DE’NERLI

A restaurant, but also an arts and crafts gallery and shop, in the Oltrarno neighborhood.

A truly special concept, the fruit of Daniele Cavalli’s creativity. Soft lights, a vintage and glamorous atmosphere, evocative of New York City in the ‘70s. The cuisine is a tribute to Italian culinary culture, unpretentious and genuine, but with its own identity.

Rem ex et officia dunt.

28

BORGO SAN JACOPO

Romantic with a view, it is the Hotel Lungarno’s Michelin-starred restaurant.

Haute cuisine with view over the Ponte Vecchio, even better if on the small terrace overlooking the Arno river.

In addition to the à la carte menu, two tasting menus including must-try dishes by Executive Chef Claudio Mengoni, such as the Cooked and Raw vegetables with Porcini mushroom ice cream and fig molasses.

CHIC NONNA FIRENZE

Chic Nonna is located in the oldest part of Palazzo Portinari Salviati. It is a fine dining experience curated by Executive Chef Vito Mollica, whose philosophy is use of raw materials of outstanding quality; the goal is to come up with seasonal menus of traditional inspiration and international taste, presented in haute cuisine style. This is where Vito Mollica creates his most ambitious dishes, tempering his childhood memories with his refined technique. The wine list offered with the chef’s creations includes a great variety of Italian labels, with a special focus on Tuscany and a great selection of French and international labels.

CIBRÈO RISTORANTE (HELVETIA & BRISTOL)

It is the elegant restaurant of the Helvetia & Bristol Hotel, born out of the collaboration with an icon of Florence’s restaurant scene. The chef and owner is Giulio Picchi, the son of the famous “cook-eater”, as he enjoyed describing himself. Faithful to his father’s philosophy, Giulio offers genuine cuisine with Italian specialties, such as ricotta cheese crespelle with white meat sauce and Piedmontese Fassona beef filet.

Via dei Vecchietti, 5 ph. +39 055 2665651 collezione.starhotels.com

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ENOTECA PINCHIORRI

It is Florence’s three Michelin-starred restaurant, since 1993, thanks to Annie Féolde, Italy’s first female chef to be awarded three stars, and the fourth in the world, who has been working side by side with her head chef, Riccardo Monco, for years now. As the name suggests, the restaurant has an amazing, world-renowned wine cellar.

Via Ghibellina, 87 ph. +39 055 26311 enotecapinchiorri.it

32 30

GOLDEN VIEW

A restaurant with a special charm and windows that overlook the Ponte Vecchio, the Vasari Corridor, the Uffizi and the river Arno. Entering the main door, a long wooden counter takes you straight to the delicatessen area, with a vast selection of cured meats and cheeses. This is followed by an Arte Bianca section producing bread and desserts; from outside, the fish tank can be seen, filled with freshness for lunch and dinner.

31

GUCCI OSTERIA

You can expect nothing but the best from a project that brought together a fashion icon and one of Italy’s most famous chefs, Massimo Bottura. He put his pupil, now a very successful chef herself, Karime Lopez, at the helm of Florence’s Gucci Osteria.

Her original versions of classic Italian dishes won the restaurant a Michelin star right away.

Via de Bardi 58r ph. +39 055 214502 goldenview.it Piazza della Signoria, 10 ph. + 39 055 0621744 gucciosteria.com

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IL PALAGIO

It is the Michelin-starred restaurant of Four Seasons Hotel Firenze, which gives onto the wonderful Gherardesca garden. The Executive Chef is Paolo Lavezzini, a master of Italian cuisine, in particular, a cuisine based on the use of seasonal and local ingredients. The menu features both traditional dishes with a gourmet twist and more creative and original ones.

Borgo Pinti, 99 ph. + 39 055 2626450 ilpalagioristorante.it

A noi italiani piace mangiare bene e vi assicuro che se sceglierete questa trattoria vi alzerete da tavola soddisfatti. Ho mangiato una “Fiorentina” cotta in modo eccellente, ma Za zà è molto altro, cucinano bene tutto! Vi consiglio di provare la tipica pappa al pomodoro e le pappardelle alla carbonara con tartufo... paradisiache!

Alessandra, TripAdvisor

Via Ricasoli 5R - Firenze 055-29.21.24 WWW.BUCANICCOLINI.IT

Via Ricasoli 5R - Firenze 055-29.21.24 WWW.BUCANICCOLINI.IT

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RESTAURANTS

Piazza della Repubblica, 7 ph. + 39 055 2735891 roccofortehotels.com

Via della Massa, 24 - Candeli ph. + 39 055 62611 villalamassa.com

33

IL VERROCCHIO

The elegant restaurant of the Villa La Massa Hotel, in Candeli, where the city begins to give way to the countryside.

With a magnificent terrace overlooking the Arno river and the perfect spot for sunset watching, it is the ideal location for special and romantic occasions, with a menu featuring traditional Italian dishes with a Mediterranean touch and a gourmet twist.

Seasonal

Costa San Giorgio, 6/A ph. +39 055 0680545 laleggendadeifrati.it

34

IRENE

The Savoy Hotel’s restaurant, offering the best of Tuscan food and wine. Simple but elegant dishes, according to the philosophy of Chef Fulvio Pierangelini, the creative director of all Rocco Forte restaurants, who elevated his famous dish of spaghetti with local fresh tomato sauce and fragrant basil to an art form.

LA LEGGENDA DEI FRATI 35

Inside the Villa Bardini museum complex, there’s a Michelin-starred restaurant where you can enjoy one of the most magnificent views of the city while savouring creative dishes cooked by husband and wife chefs Filippo Saporito and Ombretta Giovannini.

The food is based on superb local ingredients, and there’s plenty to impress. The Gran Menu dei Frati, nine courses chosen by the chefs, is an unparalleled experience.

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LA LOGGIA (VILLA SAN MICHELE) 36

At Villa San Michele, a former monastery in the Fiesole hills and now the Belmond hotel, chef Alessandro Cozzolino offers an astonishing culinary journey through past and present. Don’t miss his Roast pepper risotto with Casentino pork sausage and, when the weather’s fine, remember to book a table in the fifteenth-century loggia with breathtaking views. Seasonal Via Doccia, 4 - Fiesole phl. +39 055 5678200 belmond.com

RISTORANTE FRESCOBALDI 39

37

LE BISTROT

In winter the elegant restaurant at the Villa Cora hotel is in the oriental splendour of the Moresca Room, in summer in the poolside garden, part of the enormous and ancient park surrounding this stately home with views of the Boboli Gardens and the historic centre of Florence.

Executive chef Alessandro Liberatore skilfully interprets the best seasonal ingredients, most of them locally sourced.

38

ORA D’ARIA

The restaurant of chef Marco Stabile, the cornerstone of Florentine cuisine. Eggs and traditional recipes take centre stage in some of his timeless dishes, like Egg en meurette or Étouffée of roast pigeon with honey and puntarelle. The atmosphere is intimate and refined, and if you want to see the chef at work, book a table upstairs, where the open kitchen is.

Viale Machiavelli, 18 ph. +39 055 228790 villacora.it

Via dei Georgofili, 11r ph. + 39 055 2001699 oradariaristorante.com

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This restaurant shares the philosophy and values enshrined by the Frescobaldi family for more than 700 years. The menu is mainly inspired by Tuscan cuisine; pasta and bread are made daily on the premises and the dishes are based on the best seasonal produce. Accompanying the food are the prestigious wines that have made the Frescobaldi name famous all over the world.

Piazza della Signoria, 31 ph. +39 055 284724 it.frescobaldifirenze.it

Via torta, 5r - Firenze | tel. 0552654329 orari di apertura dal martedi alla domenica dalle 19.00 alle 22.30

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RESTAURANTS

Piazza Santa Elisabetta, 3 ph. +39 055 2737673 ristorantesantaelisabetta.it

Piazza della Signoria, 5r ph. +39 055 214412 rivoire.it 40

RIVOIRE

Established in Turin, Rivoire developed the art of chocolate-making there and became the official chocolate supplier to the royal family in the city.

Enrico Rivoire followed the Savoy family to Florence before deciding to offer the whole city the fruits of his art in 1872. Now as then, his famous chocolates and other specialities are skilfully made on the basis of original recipes by master pastry-chefs and chocolate-makers. The restaurant is a recent addition, offering a refined menu and a prestigious selection of wines.

43

41

SANTA ELISABETTA

The two-Michelin-starred restaurant of Hotel Brunelleschi is located in the ancient Byzantine Pagliazza tower.

Chef Rocco de Santis presents dishes that are minimalist, essential and pure, focusing on a single star ingredient backed by two or three others. Everything is perfectly balanced between acid and sweet, raw and cooked, intensity and lightness.

Piazza Ognissanti, 3 ph. +39 055 27152783 sestoonarno.com

SE·STO ON ARNO ROOFTOP BAR 42

An iconic place with breathtaking views of the entire city. The restaurant combines contemporary Mediterranean cooking with a unique atmosphere; the result is an avant-garde culinary experience. The elegant transparent glass structure extends over two large terraces, for a dining experience steeped in beauty.

WINTER GARDEN

In the gorgeous setting of the elegant winter garden at the St. Regis Florence, executive chef Gentian Shehi offers a sophisticated culinary experience that reflects and showcases Tuscan tradition, and impeccable service with close attention to detail. Perfect for a coffee break, a quick lunch, afternoon tea or exclusive aperitifs.

Piazza Ognissanti, 1 ph. +39 055 27163770 wintergardenflorence.com

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FISH RESTAURANTS CESTELLO RISTOCLUB 44

An evergreen nightlife venue in the Oltrarno area and a cult restaurant for fish lovers in Florence. Its iced fish counter, from which customers are invited to choose what they want -perhaps even by assembling the restaurant’s famous grand plateau of raw fish- is irresistibly tempting. The oysters and Iranian Beluga caviar are must-tries too.

46

45

FISHMOOD

Located in the historic centre of Florence, a stone’s throw from the church of Santa Croce, this restaurant offers innovative cooking that brings a modern twist to the owner’s Puglia origins. The star is the sea, with all its flavours! The wide-ranging menu is perfect whether you’re looking for a quick lunch or aperitif, or prefer a calmer fine dining experience; all accompanied by excellent wines or cocktails. Don’t forget to try the Gourmet fish panino, a true Fishmood innovation!

Piazza di Cestello, 8 ph. +39 055 2645364 cestelloristoclub.com

Piazza dei Peruzzi, 5r ph. +39 347 8184886 fishmood.it

144

FUOR D’ACQUA

Just steps from Porta San Frediano, a historic name for fish-based cuisine in Florence. The menu features only fresh and daily-caught fish, both simple and more creative dishes. Enjoy the appetizers, truly unique, as well as the grand raw fish plateau.

Among the signature dishes, Catalana and Paccheri alla Trabaccolara.

Via Pisana, 37r ph. +39 055 222299 fuordacqua.it

RISTORANTE IL PAIOLO Via del Corso, 42/R, 50122 Firenze

TUSCAN TYPICAL CUISINE

P I A Z Z A D E L L A PA S S E R A | + 3 9 0 5 5 2 1 8 5 6 2 | 4 L E O N I.C O M

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PIZZA & CO RESTAURANTS

Via Maffia, 1/C ph. +39 338 2844182 marinadisantospirito.it

MARINA DI SANTOSPIRITO

Piazza Santo Spirito, 6r ph. +39 055 210437 borgoanticofirenze.com

49

47

A former carpentry workshop in Santo Spirito is now an original fish restaurant, where chef Marina delights diners not only with her exquisite dishes of the freshest fish, from the classic to the unusual, but also with her live music, taking the stage with her guitar at the end of the evening.

50

Via Isola delle Stinche, 11/13r ph. 055 289080 caffeitaliano.it

48

BORGO ANTICO

Trattoria Borgo Antico overlooks enchanting Piazza di Santo Spirito, offering a warm, cosy atmosphere for enjoying all the magic of Renaissance Florence in the Oltrarno district on the far bank of the Arno River. Here diners enjoy delicious new versions of traditional Florentine dishes as well as seafood, pizza baked in a wood-burning oven, and delicious desserts.

Vegetarian choices available.

CAFFÈ ITALIANO

Napoli, Margherita or Marinara. Just these three pizzas, made scrupulously the traditional way with Italian stone-ground flour and a very long proving time, and served in a 14th-century palace halfway between Santa Croce and Santa Maria del Fiore, accompanied by a superb selection of wines.

GIOTTO

A place to be for lovers of Neapolitan-style pizza. In Florence since 2016 in the Novoli district, Giotto has now opened a second pizzeria in Piazza Santa Maria Novella. It’s the ideal place to enjoy an excellent Neapolitan-style pizza, cooked to perfection with mouth-watering toppings. The man behind the pizza is Marco Manzi, star pizzaiolo in this little piece of Naples in the city.

Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 24r ph. +39 055212287 pizzeriagiotto.it

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HARD ROCK CAFE

Located just off Piazza della Repubblica, the Cafe maintains the soul and architectural features of the landmark Gambrinus Cinema it is housed in, while infusing Hard Rock’s rock ‘n’ roll atmosphere. It includes a spacious seating area, open-air dining, a live music area, a vibrant bar, and a Rock Shop. Serving traditional American favorites and locally inspired entrees.

Via de’ Brunelleschi, 1 ph. +39 055 277841 hardrockcafe.com/location/florence 54

52

LUNGARNO 23

Overlooking the gorgeous Lungarno Torrigiani from a lovely veranda, cool in summer and heated in winter, this restaurant is renowned for top-quality antipasti, fabulous first courses of fresh home-made pasta (make sure you try the Spaghetti with parmesan cream and black truffle) and excellent meats served in the form of gourmet hamburgers, tagliata and other specialities.

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NEROMO

Neromo was born of a love of the simplicity of traditional flavours and aromas of Florentine food, combined with the tradition and tastes of Salento and Abruzzo. The meat and fish dishes are conceived with mastery; the crowning glory is the pizzeria, serving naturally raised pizzas topped with authentic fresh ingredients typical of Naples.

Lungarno Torrigiani, 23 ph. +39 055 2345957 lungarno23.it

Borgo San Frediano, 23/25r ph. +39 055 2382645 neromo.it

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OBICÀ FIRENZE

Obicà Mozzarella Bar is an informal and contemporary pizzeria in Via de’ Tornabuoni in the heart of Florence. It serves fabulous DOP buffalo mozzarella from Campania, pizzas and traditional Italian dishes in a friendly, convivial atmosphere, very close to the city’s main attractions.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 16 ph. +39 055 2773526 obica.com/ristoranti/firenze

PAGE 162 CAFES RESTAURANTS & APERITIFS

ETHNIC RESTAURANTS

Via Senese, 155r ph. +39 055 9338245 giovannisantarpia.com

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SANTARPIA

A name and a guarantee of quality from Giovanni Santarpia, maestro of Neapolitan pizza. The menu includes classics like Margherita and Marinara, but also variations on these, with yellow Piennolo tomatoes. There are plenty of Neapolitan options, such as sausage and friarelli or panuozzo, alongside more unusual dishes.

Via S. Gallo, 2r ph. +39 055 2381179 pizzeriestarita.it 56

STARITA

At Starita, tradition and conviviality are central, and they proudly focus on using great ingredients and traditional methods. The Florence branch is the 5th, after Naples, New York (opened in 2012), Milan (2016) and Turin (2018). Don’t miss the marinara, porta a porta, fried pizza and classic calzone.

Via del Verrocchio, 2r ph. +39 055 2477881 cibreo.com/cibleo

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CIBLÈO

In 1988 Fabio Picchi fell madly in love with an extraordinary little restaurant in Kyoto, and his passion led him to open Ciblèo Tortelli e Ravioli. The cooking has a strong Asian influence, but uses prime Tuscan ingredients; the dining room is intimate and booking is essential.

VIA DELLO SPRONE, 15R | +39 055 4939246 Piede enoteca 4 leoni.indd 1

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KOKO

Surrounded by the wonders of Florence, Koko has created an elegant minimalist space that’s the perfect setting for modern Japanese cuisine. Original pairings, exquisite ingredients and innovative techniques are the hallmarks of every dish. Meanwhile the Koko Lounge Bar is a landmark for those wishing to enjoy Asian food along with DJ sets and special cocktails.

Piazza Francesco Ferrucci, 4/5 ph. +39 055 6587428 kokorestaurant.it 61 59

MOMOYAMA

In the colourful neighbourhood of San Frediano there’s a place where Japanese elegance and hospitality combine with the vibrant atmosphere of the city. Open since 1998, Momoyama was the first restaurant in Florence to focus on Asian cuisine. Research and quality showcase Japanese food through both traditional dishes and fusion recipes that combine traditional flavours and innovation.

Borgo S. Frediano, 10r ph. +39 055 291840 ristorantemomoyama.it

CAFES & APERITIFS 60

ATRIUM BAR

The beauty and charm of Palazzo della Gherardesca are the perfect backdrop to the Atrium Bar, housed in the magnificent Four Seasons Hotel Firenze and whose bartenders master wonderfully the art of mixology. Among the cult drinks are the Vintage Negroni and Moulin Rouge, and for those who plan to stay for dinner and order the tasting menu, Executive Chef Paolo Lavezzini has designed a box full of surprises that changes with the seasons.

Borgo Pinti, 99 ph. +39 055 2626450 fourseasons.com

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B-ROOF

On the fifth floor of Grand Hotel Baglioni, a special place where you can enjoy top-quality cuisine and the spectacular view of Florence’s skyline. Brunelleschi’s Dome and Giotto’s Bell Tower are so close you feel like you can touch them. The menu features simple and traditional dishes with a creative twist by a team of talented chefs.

Piazza dell’Unità Italiana, 6 ph. +39 055 23588560 b-roof.it

PAGE 162 CAFES & APERITIFS

Via Roma, 1r ph. +39 055 213896 caffegilli.com

Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli, 2/P ph. +39 055 27268912 lungarnocollection.com

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Piazza della Repubblica, 35r ph. +39 055 210236 caffepaszkowski.com

CAFFÈ DELL’ORO

A ‘living room with kitchen’, warm and cozy. The menu is rich in genuine flavors and tasty combos, in an elegant location inspired by the sophisticated atmosphere of the 1950s. The perfect place to fall in love with Florence by taking in the view of the Ponte Vecchio from such a vantage point.

63

CAFFÈ GILLI

It is Florence’s oldest café.

Since always the city’s elegant gathering place, it is now very popular because of its variety of bakery and confectionery production.

The innovative cocktail bar, instead, stands out for its top-quality classic, contemporary and signature drinks.

An unmissable appointment at any time of day.

CAFFÈ PASZKOWSKI 64

From a brewery to a literary café and meeting place for intellectuals in the late 19th century, Paszkowski has retained all its style and charm, becoming one of the symbols of Florentine tradition. The coffee and pastries are top quality: don’t miss the Paszkowski cake, breads and pies for a breakfast that will start the day with a smile.

VIA DEL PARIONE, 74 / 76 R | VIA DELLA VIGNA NUOVA, 17 TEL. 055 214005 WWW.PARIONE.NET

bozze PARIONE-PIEDE.indd 3

04/03/22 10:53

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CIBRÈO CAFFÈ (HELVETIA & BRISTOL)

A landmark of Italian culinary excellence inside the Helvetia & Bristol Firenze – Starhotels Collezione Hotel, the ideal place for those looking for a welcoming and convivial venue for any time of the day, from coffee breaks to lunch, drinks and dinner, accompanied by the Cibrèo’s authentic cuisine.

Via dei Pescioni, 8r ph. +39 055 2665610 collezione.starhotels.com 66

COLLE BERETO

A special lounge bar amidst historic buildings and designer boutiques, offering unforgettable drinks from its prestigious cocktail list.

Tropical Jungle, Fashion Colle and Penta Negroni are only a few of the creations by the bartenders who every day create something new and exciting, to be enjoyed while listening to DJ sets and international music.

DITTA ARTIGIANALE SANT’AMBROGIO 67

Located in the 14th-century refectory of an ancient building, Ditta Artigianale is a café offering a wide choice of pastries and food and houses Europe’s first Coffee School. At aperitivo time, gin lovers can choose from a range of 150 gins and 12 different tonic waters, including the signature Peter in Florence gin.

Piazza degli Strozzi, 5 ph. +39 055 286601 cafecollebereto.com Via dei Carducci, 2r ph. +39 055 9367419 dittaartigianale.com

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EMPIREO ROOFBAR & POOL 68

Since its opening, Empireo has been offering the Hotel Plaza Lucchesi’s customers and locals alike a breathtaking view of the city. Having a drink by the pool while taking in the view of the Duomo and the beauty of the sun going down is an amazingly intense experience, enjoyable throughout the summer season at Empireo.

Lungarno della Zecca Vecchia, 38 ph. +39 055 26236 hotelplazalucchesi.it

PAGE 162 CAFES & APERITIFS

Piazza della Signoria, 37r ph: +39 055 75927012 guccigarden.gucci.com

Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli, 2r ph. 39 055 27265987 lungarnocollection.com

Via de’ Vecchietti, 3/5 ph. +39 055 8025253 iginiomassari.it 70

GALLERIA IGINIO MASSARI 69

The king of cakes and bakery products has just moved to the ground floor of Florence’s beautiful Helvetia & Bristol – Starhotels Collezione Hotel, with two glittering windows just steps away from Via Tornabuoni and Palazzo Strozzi.

A veritable temple to the art of pastry making. Among the most popular creations are the apple fagottino, the maritozzo and the tasting of macarons, but the choice is definitely wide.

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GUCCI GIARDINO 25

The fashion house’s new café & cocktail bar, which adds to the Gucci Garden restaurant.

The space was designed by Creative Director Alessandro Michele, who combined the best of a traditional Tuscan shop and of an elegant French bistro. Open all day from breakfast to after-dinner drinks, with cocktails masterly prepared by bartender Martina Bonci. The must-try drink? Mémoire di Negroni.

LA TERRAZZA ROOFTOP BAR 71

The rooftop bar La Terrazza is located on the top of the medieval Consorti Tower, on the last floor of Hotel Continentale, surrounded by art treasures. A private, contemporary-looking and very elegant space, ideal for enjoying a drink at sunset with breathtaking view.

LOCALE

The heart of the city’s nightlife scene is the beautiful hall of Il Locale, a restaurant and cocktail bar with a dual identity: an easy, more traditional side and a more sophisticated and elegant one. The perfect place for an unforgettable experience of the best of the local culinary tradition reinterpreted by the chefs’ creativity and of innovative cocktails.

Via delle Seggiole, 12 ph. +39 055 9067188 localefirenze.it

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CAFES & APERITIFS PAGE 162

LOGGIA ROOF BAR Located on the beautiful panoramic terrace of the Hotel Palazzo Guadagni, this wonderful rooftop bar overlooks the Piazza and Basilica of Santo Spirito and offers a unique view of the city and surrounding hills. With its romantic and relaxing atmosphere, it is a truly special setting for an unforgettable drink with view of the sun going down behind Florence’s red roofs.

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Piazza Santo Spirito, 9 ph. +39 055 2658376 palazzoguadagni.com 74

MOVE ON

A multi-sensory venue in which contemplation of the pleasures of the palate blends harmoniously with the joy of good music, against the backdrop of one of Italy’s most evocative settings: Piazza San Giovanni. Unparalleled Made in Italy quality is evident in the craftsmanship of the furnishings, as well as the contents of the menu.

PICTEAU BISTROT & BAR 75

An elegant cocktail bar and bistro with a unique view of the Ponte Vecchio and Arno river as if from a boat. If the view from the outdoor tables is amazing, the tables inside are in no way inferior, surrounded as they are by a collection of 20th-century works of art. Equally wonderful are the dishes by Chef Claudio Mengoni, who never ceases to amaze his customers.

Piazza San Giovanni, 1r ph. +39 055 219251 moveonfirenze.com Borgo San Jacopo, 14 ph. +39 055 27264997 lungarnocollection.com

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76

PROCACCI

A delicatessen founded in 1885 on the elegant Via de’ Tornabuoni. Its truffled panini are an institution in Florence. Taken over by Marchesi Antinori in 1998, the shop, filled with the unmistakable aroma of truffle, has preserved its walnut shelves and green marble Art Nouveau-style counter. A not-tomiss local ritual at aperitivo time.

Via de’ Tornabuoni, 64r ph. +39 055 211656 procacci1885.it

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CAFES & APERITIFS

SANTA COCKTAIL CLUB 77

An aperitif at Santa Cocktail Club in gorgeous Piazza Santa Maria Novella is a truly unmissable experience. The elegant and intimate outdoor terrace is framed by the stunning Basilica of Santa Maria Novella, and the menu is intriguing and original.

You order from a digital device offering a range of signature cocktails and timeless classics. Every drink has its glass, like the swan-shaped one for the Lady75, based on home-made raspberry syrup and hibiscus-infused vodka, or the Santa Flip, served in a quail’s egg and featuring the same ingredient. The extraordinary curated cocktails are accompanied by an aperitif and dinner menu that attracts locals and tourists alike.

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VIEW ON ART

On the 6th floor of a historic building in the heart of Florence is View on Art, the perfect place for an aperitif with breathtaking views of the Duomo. Open every day from 12:00 to 23:00, it offers truly unparalleled views of the city for a unique immersive experience accompanied by excellent cocktails.

Via dei Medici, 6 ph. +39 333 2923675 viewonart.it

Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 1 ph. +39 337 1625009 santacocktailclub.com

155

INFORMATIONS

INFORMATION

GETTING AROUND IN FLORENCE AND TUSCANY

Everything you need to know about getting around in the city and further afield

TAXI

For business and tourism, individuals and small groups, Taxi4390 is the leading provider in Florence and the surrounding area, with more than 400 vehicles. The price from Amerigo Vespucci airport to the city centre is approximately €22. The same journey at night (22:00 - 6:00) is €25.30; public holidays €24.

CAR SHARING & NCC

Car sharing is a simple, sustainable use of vehicles. To access the service, you need to register on websites offering the facility and download the dedicated app. Car sharing in Florence is currently offered by Enjoy and TiMove (Adduma Car). There are also plenty of car rental providers, with drivers if required; they include NCC Firenze Bartolini, Veloce Fast Cars, Tuscany Vip Service, Your Driver in Florence and Firenze NCC.

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CITY BIKE AND KICK SCOOTERS

Florence is the perfect place to visit by bike or scooter. Florence by Bike is currently the most reliable cycle hire service in Florence and all over Tuscany. If you prefer the electric option, a sharing service is offered

by Ridemovi. Meanwhile, electric scooters and mopeds are available from TiMove and Bit Mobility. Helmets are obligatory, and we recommend checking the websites for all the rules.

BUS

Bus services in Florence and throughout Tuscany are provided by Autolinee Toscane, both within and outside the urban area.

Tickets can be purchased digitally by texting Firenze to (ph. +39) 488 01 05 or via the Tabnet app, but are also available from official ticket offices, machines and authorised dealers.

INFORMATIONS

DISTANCEFROMFLORENCETO: AREZZO FORTE DEI MARMI GROSSETO LIVORNO LUCCA MASSA CARRARA PIOMBINO PISA PISTOIA PRATO SIENA

76 Km 124 Km 147 Km 105 Km 79 Km 173 Km 176 Km 98 Km 38 Km 21 Km 69 Km

MASSA FORTE DEI MARMI PISA

TRAM

TRAIN

Florence’s main railway station, Firenze Santa Maria Novella, is an important hub for high-speed trains operated

by Trenitalia and Italo. From here you can reach Bologna

FIRENZE

AREZZO SIENA

PIOMBINO

in just 35 minutes, Rome in one hour 20, Milan in one hour 50, and Forte dei Marmi in one hour 40.

AIRPORTS

PRATO

LIVORNO

Isola d’Elba

The tram network is an efficient and eco-friendly way to get around in Florence. The system currently offers two lines: Linea 1 (connecting Careggi and Scandicci) and Linea 2 (Peretola to Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia). Check the gestramvia.it website for stops and timetables.

PISTOIA

LUCCA

The Tuscany Region has two airports: Amerigo Vespucci (Firenze Peretola) in Florence and Galileo Galilei in Pisa. Firenze Peretola is a few kilometres from the centre of the Tuscan capital, and connected by 2 tram lines, buses and taxis. If you arrive in Pisa, you can reach the capital by a combination of the Pisa Mover bus and the train, or on one of the many shuttle buses that depart

GROSSETO

from the Arrivals area and take you to Firenze Santa Maria Novella station.

FERRIES

Sea links with the Tuscan Archipelago are operated by Toremar S.p.A., which runs services to the islands from the ports of Piombino, Livorno and Porto Santo Stefano.

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INFORMATIONS

SANTA MARIA NOVELLA Piazza Santa Maria Novella ph. +39 055 219257 Weekdays: 7:30, 18:10; Saturdays: 7:30, 8:00; Festive days: 10:30, 12:00, 18:00 SANTISSIMA ANNUNZIATA Piazza Santissima Annunziata ph. +39 055 216912 Weekdays: 9:00, 18:00; Festive days: 8:30, 9:45, 11:00, 12:10, 18:00

CELEBRATIONS TIMETABLE CATHEDRAL OF SANTA MARIA DEL FIORE Piazza San Giovanni ph. +39 055 294514 Weekdays: 10:00, 18:00; Festive days: 9:00, 18:00; 10:30 Gregorian Mass

SAN MINIATO AL MONTE Via delle Porte Sante, 34 ph. +39 055 2342731 Weekdays: 18:00; Festive days: 8:30, 10:00, 11:30,17:30; 18:30 Gregorian Mass SANTA CROCE Piazza Santa Croce, 16 ph. +39 055 244619 Weekdays: 18:00; Festive days: 11:00, 18:00 SAN LORENZO Piazza San Lorenzo ph. +39 055 216634 Weekdays: 9:30, 18:00; Festive days: 9:30, 11:00, 18:00 SAN MARCO Piazza San Marco ph. +39 055 2396950 Weekdays: 18,30; Festive days: 11:00, 18:30

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SANTO SPIRITO Piazza Santo Spirito ph. +39 055 210030 Weekdays: 9:00; Saturdays: 9:00, 18:00; Festive days: 9:00, 10:30, 18:00 RUSSIAN ORTHODOX CHURCH Via Leone X, 8 ph. +39 055 471630 Sunday and liturgical feast 10am, Saturday 5pm. In Russian SYNAGOGUE Via Farini, 4 ph. +39 055 245252 Saturdays 9am-12:30pm; Last admission at 11:30 Times may change, please contact the phone number for confirmation

INFORMATIONS

CONSULATES IN FLORENCE AUSTRIA Lungarno A. Vespucci, 58 ph. +39 055 2654222 BANGLADESH Via Pellicceria, 6 ph. +39 055 217500 BELGIUM Via dei Servi, 28 ph. +39 055 282094 BRAZIL Lungarno A. Vespucci, 18 ph. +39 055 290948 BURKINA FASO Via Maggio, 26 ph. +39 055 219571 CAMEROON Piazza Indipendenza, 21 ph. +39 055 5047149 CHINA Via della Robbia, 89 ph. +39 055 573889 COLOMBIA Via Fra Giovanni Angelico, 73 ph. +39 055 2345536 - 333 7582291 COSTA RICA Via Giambologna, 10 ph. +39 055 573603 CROATIA Via Mattonaia, 13 ph. +39 055 2639272 DENMARK Via Pier Capponi, 73 ph. +39 055 2398942 DOMENICAN REPUBLIC Via Marconi, 30 ph. +39 055 5000777 - 055 5537145 ECUADOR Vie Trieste, 67 ph. +39 055 473151 EL SALVADOR Via Condotta, 12 ph. +39 055 292256 ESTONIA Via Lamarmora, 55 ph. +39 055 588313

FINLAND Borgo SS. Apostoli, 27 ph. +39 055 3562838 - 340 1635261 FRANCE Piazza Ognissanti, 2 ph. +39 055 2302556 GRENADA Via dello Studio, 8 ph. +39 055 0776222 - 055 290394 HUNGARY Via Belgio, 2 ph. +39 055 6531817 INDONESIA Via Pier Capponi, 17 ph. +39 055 582580 - 328 9672044 ISRAEL Via della Spada, 2 ph. +39 366 3457098 LEBANON Via del Proconsolo, 16 ph. +39 055 213102 - 393 9299225 LITHUANIA Viale Belfiore, 33 ph. +39 055 363045 LUXEMBOURG Piazzale Galileo, 5 ph. +39 349 8080773 MAURITIUS Via degli Alfani, 34 ph. +39 055 0981972 MEXICO Via dell’Agnolo, 76 ph. +39 055 217831 - 055 283696 MOLDOVA Via Peri Capponi, 87 ph. +39 334 1766164 MONGOLIA Via Firenzuola, 18 ph. +39 0574 606136 MYANMAR Via di Camerata, 11 ph. +39 339 5066456 NETHERLANDS Via Pier Capponi, 73 ph. +39 055 0749108 NORWAY Viale Matteotti, 25 ph. +39 055 5000512 PERÙ Via dei Bardi, 28 ph. +39 055 2608803 PHILIPPINES Piazza Indipendenza, 17 ph. +39 055 4628848

PRINCIPATO DI MONACO Lungarno Vespucci, 58 ph. +39 055 2670608 ROMANIA Viale del Poggio Imperiale, 32 ph. +39 055 0197075 SAINT KITTS E NEVIS Via Vittorio Emanuele II, 93 ph. +39 055 496539 SAN MARINO Via Roma, 3 ph. +39 055 214063 SENEGAL Via Borgo San Lorenzo, 1 ph. +39 055 216999 SLOVENIA Via Pasquale Villari, 39 ph. +39 055 0546555 SOUTH AFRICA Piazza Saltarelli, 1 ph. +39 055 281863 SOUTH KOREA Via Madonna della Pace, 62 ph. +39 055 5048516 - 333 6874142 SPAIN Via dell’Agnolo, 76 ph. +39 055 212207 SWITZERLAND Piazzale Galileo, 5 ph. +39 055 222434 TUNISIA Piazza San Marco, 12 ph. +39 055 352626 - 342 1938984 UKRAINE Via XX Settembre, 124 ph. +39 055 4625252 U.S. OF AMERICA Lungarno A. Vespucci, 38 ph. +39 055 266951 UZBEKISTAN Via dell’Agnolo, 76 ph. +39 055 7477517 - 334 7444397 YEMEN Via Maffia, 10 ph. +39 055 219588 055 2398747 - 055 2399328

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HOTELS

CONCIERGE ‘LES CLEFS D’OR’

HOTELS COMO CASTELLO DEL NERO Via Strada Spicciano, 7 Tavarnelle ph. +39 055 8064701 FOUR SEASONS HOTEL FIRENZE Via Borgo Pinti, 99 ph. +39 055 26261 GOLDEN TOWER HOTEL & SPA Piazza degli Strozzi, 11r ph. +39 055 287860 HELVETIA&BRISTOL FIRENZE Via de’ Pescioni, 2 ph. +39 055 26651 ph. +39 055 288353 HOTEL BERNINI PALACE FIRENZE Piazza San Firenze, 29 ph. +39 055 288621 HOTEL FIRENZE NUMBER NINE Via dei Conti, 9 ph. +39 055 293777 HOTEL LUNGARNO Borgo San Jacopo, 14 ph. +39 055 27261 HOTEL REGENCY FIRENZE Piazza Massimo D’Azeglio, 3 ph. +39 055 245247 HOTEL SAVOY FLORENCE Piazza della Repubblica, 7 ph. +39 055 27351 IL SALVIATINO Via del salviatino, 21 ph. + 39 055 904 1111 IL TORNABUONI HOTEL Via de’ Tornabuoni, 3 ph. +39 055 212645 NH COLLECTION FIRENZE PORTA ROSSA Via Porta Rossa, 19 ph. +39 055 2710911 PALAZZO MONTEBELLO FIRENZE Via G. Garibaldi, 14 ph. +39 055 27471 PORTRAIT FIRENZE Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli, 4 ph. +39 055 27268000 RELAIS S. CROCE

BY BAGLIONI HOTELS & RESORTS Via Ghibellina, 87 ph. +39 055 2342230

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SINA VILLA MEDICI Via Il Prato, 42 ph. +39 055 277171 THE PLACE Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 7 ph. +39 055 2645181 THE ST. REGIS FLORENCE Piazza Ognissanti, 1 ph. +39 055 27161 THE WESTIN EXCELSIOR, FLORENCE Piazza Ognissanti, 3 ph. +39 055 27151 VILLA CORA Viale Macchiavelli, 18 ph. +39 055 228790 VILLA SAN MICHELE A BELMOND HOTEL FIRENZE Via Doccia, 4 - Fiesole ph. +39 055 567 8200 VILLA TOLOMEI HOTEL & RESORT Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10 ph. +39 055 3920401 VILLE SULL’ARNO Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo, 1/3/5 ph. +39 055 670971 AC HOTEL FIRENZE Via Luciano Bausi, 5 ph. +39 055 3120111 AMBASCIATORI HOTEL Via Luigi Alamanni, 3 ph. +39 055 287421 BORGHESE PALACE ART HOTEL Via Ghibellina, 174r ph. +39 055 284363 BRUNELLESCHI HOTEL Piazza Sant’Elisabetta, 3 ph. +39 055 27370 CLUB HOTEL Via S. Caterina da Siena, 11 ph. +39 055 217707 CONTINENTALE Vicolo dell’ Oro, 6r ph. +39 055 27262 DIPLOMAT HOTEL Via Luigi Alamanni, 9 ph. +39 055 2608400 FH55 HOTEL CALZAIUOLI Via dei Calzaiuoli, 6 ph. +39 055 212456 GALLERY HOTEL ART Vicolo dell’ Oro, 5

ph. +39 055 27263 GARIBALDI BLU HOTEL Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 21 ph. +39 055 277300 GLANCE HOTEL FLORENCE Via Nazionale, 23 ph. +39 055 290082 GRAND HOTEL ADRIATICO Via Maso Finiguerra, 9 ph. +39 055 27931 GRAND HOTEL BAGLIONI Piazza dell’Unità Italiana, 6 ph. +39 055 23580 GRAND HOTEL CAVOUR Via del Proconsolo, 3 ph. +39 055 266271 GRAND HOTEL MEDITERRANEO Lungarno del Tempio, 44 ph. +39 055 660241 GRAND HOTEL MINERVA Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 16 ph. +39 055 27230 HOTEL ADLER CAVALIERI FIRENZE Via della Scala, 40 ph. +39 055 277810 HOTEL ALBANI FIRENZE Via Fiume, 12 ph. +39 055 26030 HOTEL ART ATELIER Via dell’Amorino, 20 ph. +39 055 283777 HOTEL ATLANTIC PALACE Via Nazionale, 12 ph. +39 055 213031 HOTEL BALESTRI FIRENZE Piazza Mentana, 7 ph. +39 055 214743 HOTEL BERCHIELLI Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli, 14 ph. +39 055 264061 HOTEL CALIFORNIA Via Ricasoli, 28 ph. +39 055 282753 ph. +39 055 283499 HOTEL CELLAI FIRENZE Via XXVII Aprile, 52/R ph. +39 055 489291 HOTEL CERRETANI FIRENZE - MGALLERY Via de’ Cerretani, 68 ph. +39 055 0643811 HOTEL CROCE DI MALTA Via della Scala, 7 ph. +39 055 261870 ph. +39 055 218351 HOTEL DEGLI ORAFI

HOTELS

Lungarno degli Archibusieri, 4 ph. +39 055 26622 HOTEL DOMUS FLORENTIAE Via degli Avelli, 2 ph. +39 055 2654645 HOTEL EXECUTIVE Via Curtatone, 5 ph. +39 055 217451 HOTEL FIRENZE LAURUS AL DUOMO Via de’ Cerretani, 54r, ph. +39 055 2381752 HOTEL GINORI AL DUOMO & GINORI GARDEN DELUXE COLLECTION Via de’ Ginori, 22/24/26 ph. +39 055 218615 HOTEL HOME FLORENCE Piazza Piave, 3 ph. +39 055 243668 HOTEL KRAFT FIRENZE Via Solferino, 2 ph. +39 055 284273 HOTEL L’OROLOGIO FIRENZE Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 24 ph. +39 055 277380 HOTEL LONDRA FIRENZE Via Jacopo da Diacceto, 16/20 ph. +39 055 2739141 ph. +39 055 27390 HOTEL MONNA LISA Borgo Pinti 27 ph. +39 055 2479751 HOTEL NH COLLECTION FIRENZE PALAZZO GADDI Via del Giglio, 9 ph. +39 02 87368144 NH FIRENZE Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 4/A ph. +39 055 2770 HOTEL PALAZZO DAL BORGO Via della Scala, 6 ph. +39 055 216237 HOTEL PIERRE Via dei Lamberti, 5 ph. +39 055 216218 HOTEL FIRENZE PITTI PALACE AL PONTE VECCHIO Borgo S. Jacopo, 3/R ph. +39 055 2398711 HOTEL PONTE VECCHIO SUITES & SPA Via Dè Belfredelli, 9 ph. +39 055 217379 HOTEL PRINCIPE FIRENZE Lungarno Amerigo Vespucci, 34

ph. +39 055 284848 HOTEL ROMA Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 8 ph. +39 055 210366 HOTEL SANTA MARIA NOVELLA FIRENZE Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 1 ph. +39 055 271840 HOTEL VILLA CARLOTTA Via Michele di Lando, 3 ph. +39 055 2336134 JOY HOTEL Via degli Orti Oricellari, 30 ph. +39 055 214628 LUNGARNO VESPUCCI 50 Lungarno Amerigo Vespucci, 50 ph. +39 055 0458100 MERCURE FIRENZE CENTRO Via Nazionale, 21/23 R ph. +39 055 530 0700 MILU HOTEL Via de’ Tornabuoni, 8 ph. +39 055 217103 PALAZZO CASTRI 1874 Piazza Indipendenza, 7 ph. +39 055 472118 PALAZZO GAMBA LUXURY APARTMENTS FLORENCE Via de’ Martelli, 2 ph. +39 055 271861 PALAZZO SAN NICCOLÒ Via di S. Niccolò, 79 ph. +39 055 244509 HOTEL PARK PALACE FIRENZE Piazzale Galileo, 5 ph. +39 055 222431 PLAZA HOTEL LUCCHESI FIRENZE Lungarno della Zecca Vecchia, 38 ph. +39 055 26 236 RIVOLI BOUTIQUE HOTEL Via della Scala, 33 ph. +39 055 27861 ROOM MATE ISABELLA HOTEL Via de’ Tornabuoni, 13 ph. +39 055 239 6464 ROOM MATE LUCA HOTEL Via XXVII Aprile, 3 ph. +39 055 2645539 SAN FIRENZE SUITES & SPA Piazza di S. Firenze, 3/A, ph. +39 055 285009 SAN GALLO PALACE Via Lorenzo Il Magnifico, 2 ph. +39 055 463871 STROZZI PALACE HOTEL Via dei Vecchietti, 4

ph. +39 055 283898 THE FRAME HOTEL Via Panzani, 2 ph. +39 055 2670549 THE J & J HISTORIC HOUSE HOTEL Via di Mezzo, 20 ph. +39 055 26312 VILLA OLMI FIRENZE Via degli Olmi, 4/8 Via del Crocifisso del Lume, 18 - Bagno a Ripoli ph. +39 055 637710 HOTEL BENIVIENI FIRENZE Via delle Oche, 5 ph. +39 055 238 2133

HISTORIC RESIDENCES & RESORTS ANTICA TORRE DI VIA TORNABUONI N.1 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 1 ph. +39 055 265 8161 ph. +39 380 9025494 CASA HOWARD FIRENZE RESIDENZA D’EPOCA Via della Scala, 18 ph. +39 055 7094605 HOTEL CENTRALE Via dei Conti, 3 ph. +39 055 215761 +39 055 215216 PALAZZO ALFIERI RESIDENZA D’EPOCA ALFIERI COLLEZIONE Lungarno Corsini, 2 + 39 055 230 2185 ph. +39 055 289618 PALAZZO ROSELLI CECCONI Borgo Santa Croce, 6 ph. +39 055 0749120 +39 366 8792690 VILLA LA MASSA Via della Massa, 24 Candeli Bagno a Ripoli ph. +39 055 62611

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52 MEDICI VILLA LA PETRAIA

53 MEDICI VILLA OF CASTELLO

54 MEDICI VILLA OF POGGIO A CAIANO

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