Mandarin Oriental Milan - City Guidebook 2019

CITY GUIDEBOOK 2019

In collaboration with

CITY GUIDEBOOK 2019

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Mandarin Oriental, Milan Via Andegari, 9 - Milan Ph. +39 02 8731 8888 mandarinoriental.com

CONTENTS

Luca Finardi 8

Antonio Guida 10

Antonio Citterio, Patricia Viel 12

Best attractions in Milan 15

DISTRICTS

1 FASHION DISTRICT

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2 BRERA | CORSO COMO

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3 DUOMO

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4 PORTA VENEZIA | PORTA NUOVA | REPUBBLICA 68 5 THE CASTLE | SEMPIONE | MAGENTA

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6 PORTA TICINESE | NAVIGLI | TORTONA

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7 FROM THE CENTRE TO PORTA ROMANA

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CONTENTS

MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MILAN

PLACES TOP ATTRACTIONS, ART & THEATRES

128 146 148

SHOPPING 162 RESTAURANTS & FOOD

192

APERITIF & WINE BARS

216

NIGHTLIFE 220 OUTSIDE MILAN

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INDEX

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LEGEND

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Luca Finardi

THE CITY’S LIFESTYLE It’s been a life-changing experience, working as General Manager at the Mandarin Oriental in Milan. I believe Milan is the city of the future, only looking forward and surprising me day after day. Always curious, continuously innovative, a never-ending challenge, Milan transforms before my eyes with a dynamic force. Milan has made a name for itself and become a top destination on the map of the most desirable cities in the world.

Boasting amazing qualities, Milan exudes culture through productions at Teatro alla Scala and the Piccolo Teatro, education at the Marangoni and Bocconi universities and medical research at I.E.O. (Istituto Europeo Oncologia). And, of course, Milan is an international center for the fashion and design industry, not to mention food and wine. I can proudly say the restaurant Seta has earned a second Michelin star.

Milan vaunts an enviable position for embarking on day trips of all kinds: the vineyards in Franciacorta, truffle-based restaurants in Alba, the upper city of Bergamo, famous Monza with its Formula 1 race circuit. The lakes are close by and exquisite in every season; and soon, we’ll even have a new sister hotel when Mandarin Oriental opens its unique resort on the shores of Lake Como, with a pool on the water and an amazing spa.

Visitors returning after a few years continue to be wowed and pleasantly surprised by the elegance of our streets. Mandarin Oriental, Milan, has proudly showed itself to be at the forefront of the city’s lifestyle.

Luca Finardi, General Manager Mandarin Oriental, Milan 9

Antonio Guida

MY CUISINE Before the restaurant Seta opened, I was there. Designing the kitchens, training my team one by one alongside my incredible partners, executive sous-chef Federico Dell’Omarino and pastry chef Nicola Di Lena: together we brought the Seta to life. Indeed, our work isn’t just ours, but rather the work of 30-something people, which as I love to say. We called the restaurant Seta for many reasons: in honour of Marco Polo, the first to create a bond between the East and the West, the origins of our brand, but also to evoke the soft and precious sensation that I aim to convey with my dishes and to emphasize the exotic surprises that are part of my cuisine.

Our menu is seasonal, like mushrooms and truffles in the autumn. I like movement – my cuisine has to be dynamic, allowing the dishes to change throughout the service – I like to improvise without fear of fantasy, even welcoming the possibility of mistakes so I can try new combinations. I recently had fun with a recipe of oysters, potatoes and sweet Italian peppers with a champagne sauce. I respect the small ingredients that make a difference, spices like cardamom and star anise, the powder of curly kale or lime. For the dish’s presentation, I choose decisive colors, yellow, green, red, each one in harmonious balance, as attention must be given as much to the color as to the taste.

I’m an artisan chef. I like to surprise guests with things that are really simple, fascinating them with a dish that isn’t too concocted. Throughout my work, I never lose sight of the most important ingredient: continuity, always maintaining the highest level of quality no matter the challenge.

Antonio Guida, Michelin-starred Executive Chef Seta Restaurant 11

ph. Settimio Benedusi

Antonio Citterio and Patricia Viel

MILANESE AMBIENCE Mandarin Oriental, Milan project involved the redevelopment of four adjacent historic buildings along a decidedly Milanese street: the buildings, very different in their styles and original use, reveal a rare sample of ancient Milan. While the four facades still appear markedly distinctive on the outside, a link runs through the inner spaces and courtyards, sparking a set of environments that are different in style yet in harmony with one another. The grey stone floor in the ground floor lobby seeks continuity with the entrance courtyard on via Andegari, thus creating a place of passage, recalling the carriage atrium of the past.

Mandarin Bar & Bistrot, entirely in white and black marble mosaic, is the project’s most iconic space, as well as the hotel’s beating heart. The environment opens out onto the city, welcoming locals and international travellers in a place made for sociality. The rooms, instead, are furnished in a neutral style, in calming shades of beige, black and white; they represent the other side of Milanese style, the city’s quiet and private side in clear contrast with the exuberance of the public space on the ground floor. We have sought to instill all these spaces with a welcoming and very Milanese ambience.

With our personal style, we would like guests to start breathing in the city’s atmosphere as soon as they arrive, making a stay at our hotel, truly original and unforgettable.

Antonio Citterio and Patricia Viel architects, urban planners, designers 13

BEST ATTRACTIONS IN MILAN

BEST ATTRACTIONS IN MILAN

The Duomo and its Museum The Lombard Gothic style in all its grandeur.

The museum houses the Cathedral’s treasures.

Pag. 50

The Fashion District Via Monte Napoleone and the neighboring streets are the height of luxury shopping, while Fashion Week is a must for the fashion-addicted.

Pag. 86

Pag. 22

Santa Maria delle Grazie The church refectory is home to Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper, the Renaissance genius’s masterpiece.

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Opened in 1867, this architectural accomplishment in Neo-Renaissance-style iron stands at 47 metres tall.

Pag. 60

Brera and its Pinacoteca An exuberant and trendychic neighbourhood, whose cultural centre is the painting gallery.

Pag. 36

BEST ATTRACTIONS IN MILAN

Pag. 122

Navigli and Darsena Milan at its most authentic, enjoy the bohemian atmosphere along the canals and the newly open dock area.

Pag. 92

Other museums Don’t miss: Museo del Novecento, Palazzo Reale, MUDEC, Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, the Fondazione Prada and the Design Museum.

Pag. 98

Castello Sforzesco A symbol of Milan, with its striking fountain and courtyards, it is one of the most extraordinary castles in Italy.

Parco Sempione The city’s most beloved park by locals, it’s a green island between the Arco della Pace and the castle.

Pag. 80

Pag. 74

New Milan The changing city: the architecture and skyscrapers of Porta Nuova, with the award-winning Vertical Forest.

CALIBER RM 07-01

Fusing Milanese design with timeless Oriental luxury, Mandarin Oriental, Milan lies in the heart of Italy’s most fashionable city

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I VIA MONTE NAPOLEONE Home to convents until the 18th century, it was then the site of a Monte di Pietà pawnbroker, after whom the street is named. Now it is the leading luxury street with 80-something fashion boutiques.

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SAN BABILA II This beautiful 13th-century basilica appears like a vision among the modern buildings that surround it. A pipe organ inspired by the German Baroque style is often played at concerts (p. 149).

In Piazza San Babila

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SOLAR DISC The giant sculpture resembling a sun from Aztec culture is a double rotating circle, standing 4.5 metres high and made from gilded bronze by the Italian artist Arnaldo Pomodoro in 1990.

In Piazza Meda

IV MUSEO POLDI PEZZOLI A walk amongst the canvases of Renaissance masters (Bellini, Mantegna, Botticelli), as well as 18th-century views of Venice

by Francesco Guardi (p. 155).

At Via Manzoni, 12

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THE OLYMPUS OF STYLE fashion, an added bonus while in pursuit of their all-time favourite labels.

The birth of the Quadrilatero as a fashion district dates to the Fifties, when the sublimely elegant Biki, the Milanese lady whose dressmaking prowess transformed Maria Callas into a style icon, opened her atelier in Via Sant’Andrea, sparking the interest of international jetsetters. This Olympus of Italian fashion, of which Milan is the undisputed capital, is studded with showrooms and boutiques in this part of the city. Even the smallest of details are tended to, such as non-slip grates for the most stylish of heels.

Glimpses of lovely aristocratic buildings are met with the soothing sight of year-round lush green courtyards.

The Fashion District is one of the most exclusive areas in Milan, a chic neighbourhood that is home to historic tailor’s shops, Italian and international fashion houses with their prêtà-porter collections and ateliers increasingly focused on made-to-measure services.

Known as the “quadrilatero della moda”, meaning fashion square, the name comes from the four streets Via Manzoni, Via Monte Napoleone, Via della Spiga and Corso Venezia, which are connected to one another by a mundane crisscrossing of smaller streets.

Via Monte Napoleone reigns supreme, hailed as one of the most famous shopping streets in the world. Lovers of beautiful things flock here to bask in the ambience and mood of 27

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MILANO FASHION WEEK Milan is the fashion capital of Italy, with the highest number of people employed in the Italian prêt-à-porter industry, which started right here. Today, the city is home to the headquarters of leading fashion houses, top magazines, the best photographers and directors, the most sophisticated boutiques and concept stores, as well as the most influential fashion schools.

The National Chamber of Italian Fashion (Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana) coordinates and promotes the development of Italian fashion by organizing four Fashion Weeks every year, showcasing prêt-à-porter previews: Milano Moda Donna takes place in February and September, Milano Moda Uomo in January and June.

Early in the morning cloistered venues and industrial sites are the perfect place to show off: every look is welcome from delicate organza dresses to sharp jumpsuits, from ultra-feminine to sporty outfits.

A world of glamour with models of the moment, artists, collectors, buyers and journalists enliven the vibrant atmosphere of Milan’s Fashion Week, powered by fashion labels and the trendiest venues in town.

Keep in mind that tickets cannot be purchased for the most coveted fashion shows such as Armani, Prada, Versace or Dolce & Gabbana.

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Prada SS 2019 Milan Fashion Week 29

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Via Monte Napoleone 30

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Piazza Meda 31

ph. Ruggero Longoni

MUSEO BAGATTI VALSECCHI A singular showcase of the 19th-century taste for collecting, Museo Bagatti Valsecchi (p. 155) is an elegant house museum with a Neo-Renaissance ambience, with eclectic objects and priceless collections: tapestries, armoury, ceramics, furniture, paintings, ivory and glass items, scientific instruments and globes, as well as the famous Santa Giustina panel by Giovanni Bellini (1470). The museum hosts a number of events throughout the year, including concerts, theatre performances, talks with leading figures in the art world and temporary exhibitions ranging from the 15th-century Antonello da Messina to the French photographer Lartigue to drawings by the original Giampiero Bodino. Breathe in the past in the courtyard, one of the loveliest in Milan, paved in black and white cobblestones mosaics - accessible to the public from via GesĂš and via Santo Spirito - where you can sit down at one of the tables belonging to the delicatessen and bistro Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone (p. 214).

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Palazzo Bagatti Valsecchi 33

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HIGHLIGHTS ni Lorenzi in the 1930s, this privately-owned museum, known only to the most exacting shaving connoisseurs, is home to a collection of more than 4,000 shaving instruments: from archaeological finds to the latest techniques (open on appointment only).

A few blocks away, shaving lovers can enjoy a traditional Italian treatment at the barber’s corner in the Acqua di Parma boutique in via Gesù, and in Corso Venezia, in the courtyard of the men’s Dolce & Gabbana store. Enter through the separate entrance for a stylish and classic Sicilian barber’s experience.

VIA DELLA SPIGA Connecting corso Venezia to via Manzoni, Via della Spiga is regarded as the street parlour of Milanese fashion. Thanks to it being almost entirely pedestrianized, only 520 metres long and vaunting distinctive paving stones, the most famous fashion labels have opened stores here. More than seventy boutiques line the attractive street, including Dolce & Gabbana, Miu Miu, Prada, Car Shoe, Moncler, Tod’s, Fay, Gio Moretti and Krizia, as well as high jewellery shops like Scavia, Bulgari, Chopard and Tiffany & Co., tailor-made gloves by Sermoneta, and the Nilufar gallery (p. 156), a design collector’s heaven.

FORNASETTI The world of Fornasetti can be experienced in this 3-floor building in Corso Venezia, 21A, seven windows on the corner of via Senato inaugurated in 2016. In this exciting universe

by Piero Fornasetti (father) and Barnaba Fornasetti (son) - from the plate collections

THE GENTLEMEN’S WORLD An old-style shaving experience begins at Collezione Lorenzi in Via Monte Napoleone, 9. Founded by Giovan34

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1 Sant Ambroeus (p. 213) bears the name of the patron saint of the city. Opened in 1936 as a chocolate shop, it’s located under the loggias on corso Matteotti. Elegantly furnished in the Art Deco style, today it’s a bar, pastry shop and restaurant.

to wallpaper, objects, chairs, paintings, books, mirrors, etc. - you’ll find one of Milan’s best interiors. Design lovers flock to the shop, popular with the international crowd and trendy locals. In the new space, there’s an area dedicated to custom-made products, like the Fornasetti total suite created for the Mandarin Oriental in Milan, where the director Pedro Almodovar expressly asked to sleep.

PALAZZO MORANDO This elegant noble palace dating to the 16th century, transformed in the Rocaille style in the 18th century, is now the Museum of Costume and Fashion (p. 156), with important collections of fabrics, clothing and accessories, comprising almost 6,000 items in 20-something rooms, from 18th-century working-class clothes to more recent haute-couture creations. On the first floor, you’ll find the painting gallery and a display of the original layout, shedding light on the 18th-century Milanese aristocracy’s taste in furniture and porcelain.

COVA AND SANT AMBROEUS Two iconic shops in Milanese pastry making can be found in the Fashion District. Cova (p. 212), established by 1817 in Via Monte Napoleone, 8, is one of the city’s oldest and most refined coffee shops.

It’s where Giuseppe Verdi personally ordered “his” very own panettone. For almost 200 years it was owned by the same family, and nothing has changed since it was taken over by Louis Vuitton.

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II SAN SIMPLICIANO A basilica founded by Bishop Ambrose, the façade and its doorway remains from the Romanesque period. Beautiful to visit the two cloisters (p. 150).

At Piazza San Simpliciano, 7 III PICCOLO TEATRO Milan’s first permanent theatre founded in 1947. The historic location is near the Castle, Piccolo Teatro Grassi (p. 161).

At Via Rovello, 2 IV PIAZZA DEL CARMINE One of the loveliest squares in Milan. The church and the statue of Sant’Espedito are beloved by locals.

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I BRERA The distinguished painting gallery is situated in the former Palazzo Brera, the construction of which was begun by Francesco Maria Richini in 1651 (p. 42).

On Via Brera

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V PIAZZA GAE AULENTI Opened in 2012 and named after the prolific Italian architect, the piazza has a big fountain at its centre.

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Church of San Marco 40

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THAT (SLIGHTLY) SNOBBY CHARM In the 19th century, the Brera neighbourhood became popular with artists who gravitated around the Accademia di Belle Arti (via Brera, 28), and has slowly transformed since then. Between Via San Marco and Via della Moscova, the Tombone di San Marco was one of the gates to the city, as well as the entrance point to the waters of the Naviglio, connecting with the canal system. Until the 1930s, there was an artificial lake in front of the Church of San Marco, with boats and dockings.

Paved over in the 1950s, today an underground river flows through the area, though nostalgia-lovers would like to bring this element of the city’s history back to the light of day. The market in Via San Marco takes place every Monday and Thursday from 7.30am to 2pm, where you’ll find a bit of every-

thing: flowers and fruit, shoes and cashmere sweaters, as well as roast chicken and ceramics. A beautiful mix! A stroll along Brera’s cobbled streets feels authentically “Milanese”: art galleries, niche perfumers and fashion and design brands have opened their stores here, close to the neighbourhood’s cultural hotspots.

Away from the glamour of the Fashion District, this is where vintage shops and historic coffeehouses speak of a style that hails from afar, a mixture of culture, elegance and a touch of eccentric creativity. Sizes return to human dimensions, separate from the rest of the city. North of this bohemian maze of streets, be swept away by the snobby chic charm of Corso Garibaldi and Corso Como, where you can find the most happening nightspots in Milan.

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PALAZZO DI BRERA Origins The palace stands on top of a 14th-century monastery of the Humiliati order, which later passed into Jesuit hands.

Accademia di Brera In 1773, Empress Maria Theresa of Austria decided to appoint it as the home of the city’s most advanced cultural institutions: Accademia di Belle Arti (p. 149), Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense (p. 150), with more than one million books in four rooms, the Astronomical Observatory (p. 149) and the Botanical Gardens (p. 150).

The Pinacoteca The painting and sculpture gallery (Pinacoteca) flanked the Accademia di Belle Arti for educational purposes.

In 1801, when Napoleon began to suppress churches and monasteries, the Pinacoteca’s collections gained works of major importance. When Milan became the capital of the Kingdom of Italy (1805), bequests and acquisitions from Veneto, Emilia Romagna and Marche arrived at the gallery. Major works include Mantegna’s Dead Christ, Raphael’s Marriage of the Virgin, Caravaggio’s Supper at Emmaus and others

by Carpaccio, Piero della Francesca, Titian, Tintoretto and Veronese (p. 158).

Astronomical Museum The museum displays ancient scientific instruments belonging to the Astronomical Observatory (p. 149) and the University of Milan (p. 160).

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Via Ciovasso 44

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CORSO COMO

Only 300 meters long, Corso Como is a pleasant pedestrianized walk, dotted with shops, bars and restaurants, leading as far as the futuristic Porta Nuova neighbourhood to the lively Piazza Gae Aulenti. The street is for shoppers looking for something more niche than Via Monte Napoleone.

One store stands out in particular, 10 Corso Como: a relaxing and cosmopolitan concept store opened in the early Nineties in the courtyard of an apartment block. The store offers a selection of leading labels such as Courrèges, Comme des Garçons and Azzedine Alaïa, as well as up-and-coming designers; haute perfumes and limited-edition objects made for 10 Corso Como, adding a refined ensemble of spaces, with a gallery, café restaurant, bookshop stocked with art, design, fashion and architecture titles, a splendid outdoor terrace with varieties of plants and the 3Rooms Hotel, with just 3 rooms!

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aaaaaa Porta Garibaldi aaaaaaa 47

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HIGHLIGHTS 2

the extensive kitchen and furniture showroom Boffi and De Padova and the design gallery Dimore, while just around the corner sits the stores Moroso, Pierluigi Ghianda and Bonacina 1889, the interior design atelier where classic pieces are mixed with more contemporary articles. The first Italian daily newspaper, Corriere della Sera Rizzoli, is still published here, in Via Solferino, 28, running since 1876.

BOTANICAL GARDENS In 1774, the Botanical Gardens (p. 150) gained their current appearance thanks to Maria Theresa of Austria. Today, you can stroll through rows of sage - there are about 40 types ferns, bulbs, herbs, vegetables and peonies or under the ageold trees, like linden, larch and the two ginkgo biloba, which arrived here in 1775 and whose leaf is now the symbol of the botanic garden. If you wish to finish the peaceful break on a romantic note, visit the adjacent Pinacoteca (p. 158), home to Hayez’s The Kiss.

RICHARD GINORI The historic Florentine brand Richard Ginori, today owned

by Gucci, has come to Milan, located in a unique place that highlights the eclectic universe of ceramics. The large space in Via Brera, at the corner of Via Pontaccio, displays the porcelains in a homely setting of a bygone era, surrounded by pickled chests of drawers, wardrobes and large tables sitting atop the checkered floor. Here, a porcelain chandelier, with 12 arms,

VIA SOLFERINO AND DESIGN DISTRICT Historic domain of artists and gallerists, Via Solferino has today been miraculously restored and gentrified, transformed into one of the most expensive streets in the city. Starving artists were replaced by the elites of furniture, design, architecture and top brands, like 48

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illuminates the living area. The new collections designed by the art director Alessandro Michele reinterpret classic geometric designs and motifs of animals and natural forms.

PROCACCI The Tuscan bistrot Procacci opened in Milan, in Corso Garibaldi, 79, following its acquisition by Marchesi Antinori, long synonymous with excellent wines. It’s not exactly a restaurant but rather a highend wine bar, with a small kitchen that seats 50 customers and an outdoor area on the sidewalk.

EATALY Teatro Smeraldo, once a famous music theatre, has been transformed into a food megastore (p. 214), boasting 3,500 square meters across multiple levels and products coming from every region in Italy. Thanks to the entrepreneurial genius of its founder, Oscar Farinetti, Eataly has conquered the Boot, as well as Japan, New York and Dubai.

The store vaunts stands of all kinds, from a butcher shop to a delicatessen, pizza to cheese, along with a number of restaurants ranging from fast food to the starred Alice (ph. +39 02 49497340), with dishes by chef Viviana Varese. Incredibly popular, especially on the weekend.

Open every day from 10 am to midnight.

FONDAZIONE FELTRINELLI The new Fondazione Feltrinelli Porta Volta building is an urban cultural centre, designed by the architects Jacques Herzog & Pierre de Meuron.

Opened around the corner from Corso Como in 2016, the long steel and glass structure on Viale Pasubio, inspired by the cascina buildings of traditional rural architecture in Lombardy, is home to a bookshop, cafĂŠ, library and dedicated reading room. It hosts public events and lectures all year round (p. 152).

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II PALAZZO REALE It was the city’s center of power beginning in the 13th century, and today it’s the top spot for cultural offerings, with a packed calendar of exhibitions (p. 157).

At Piazza Duomo, 12

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III GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE (p. 60).

IV TEATRO LA SCALA (p. 62) V SANTA MARIA PRESSO SAN SATIRO Built in two phases, the church of Santa Maria dates to 1486.

Bramante was responsible for the architecture, creating a unique trompe-l’oeil choir (p. 151).

At Via Torino, 17/19 VI PINACOTECA AMBROSIANA Established in 1618 after Cardinal Borromeo’s bequeathal of statues and paintings.

Among the awe-inspiring works are Leonardo’s Portrait of a Musician and Caravaggio’s Basket of Fruit (p. 157).

At Piazza Pio XI, 2

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GOTHIC TREASURES AND MUSEUMS important museums are right next to it: the Cathedral Museum, Palazzo Reale, Museo del Novecento, the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, which houses the world’s largest collection of Leonardo’s drawings, Fondazione Forma, exclusively dedicated to photography exhibitions, the Teatro alla Scala Museum and the Gallerie d’Italia.

Only the majestic Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, inaugurated in 1867, can compete with the cathedral’s beauty. The cathedral square hosts classical and pop music concerts alternated with other events, enthusiastically attended by local residents who re-energize the space, which has been blending the sacred and profane for more than six hundred years.

Milan’s centre has a particular kind of charm. Severe and imposing at first glance, it unfolds in an unexpected way, with courtyards lined with climbing vines and fanciful Art Nouveau architecture.

The heart of the neighbourhood is Europe’s most extraordinary cathedral. With its monumental beauty, carved in marble, it has become the symbol of the city. Built over five centuries, the Duomo (Milan’s cathedral) is the third largest Catholic church in the world in terms of surface area, after St. Peter’s in Rome and the cathedral of Seville.

Work on the Duomo, began in 1386, under the duchy of Gian Galeazzo Visconti, and was completed over five centuries later. The city’s most 55

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The spires The cathedral’s 135 spires are elaborately ornamented, dense in statues of all sizes (there are more than 1,800 of them). Most of the spires are 17 meters high.

The sculptures In the cathedral there are around 3,400 statues and more than 700 figures included in the marble reliefs.

The statuary has its own claim to fame: for six centuries, the cathedral site continuously produced statues in line with the cultural climate of every significant moment in history.

The Madonnina Protectress symbol of the Milanese people, the Madonnina is made of embossed and gilded copper sheets, supported by a frame now made of stainless steel.

It was erected on the cathedral’s main spire in 1774.

Stained glass windows The original 14th-century coloured windows were replaced with stained glass in 1463. An interesting tidbit: in 1939, all the windows were removed and placed in a basement to protect them from bombings. It was only after World War II that work on the facade’s stained glass windows proceeded.

An activity Stroll along the roof: on the north side, a ladder and a lift lead upwards. The panoramic view extends over the whole city, reaching as far as the Alps (p. 152).

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The cathedral’s spires 57

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Above, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Below, Piazza Duomo 58

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Designed by Giuseppe Mengoni, this shopping center’s foundation stone was laid in 1865 by Vittorio Emanuele II, hence its name. Work on the building did not end until 1876, however. From its inception, the Galleria was a meeting place for the Milanese bourgeois, earning it the nickname Milan’s living room. It has a cross plan with an octagonal iron and glass roof, 47 metres high. The luxurious Neo-Renaissance architecture and the decorations inside are dizzying, transporting the imagination to another era.

The visitor’s gaze is drawn toward the floor mosaics, which represent the coats of arms of Rome, Florence, Turin and Milan; then the eye seeks out the shop displays and halls, eventually focusing on the iron and glass windows of the roof. Alongside some of the city’s historic cafes, inside the gallery you’ll find boutiques of the world’s great fashion houses, including Prada, which opened its first glove and travel equipment shop here in 1913, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Armani and Versace.

The Rizzoli bookshop is a mandatory stop: this literary corner has attracted the attention of the international press. The gallery’s recent restoration - completed for Expo 2015 - has lent it the elegant worldliness of a lost time (p. 153).

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TEATRO ALLA SCALA The most famous opera house in the world, with an audience as critical as it is appreciative, the theatre made its name in Milan’s history through Giuseppe Verdi, Arturo Toscanini and Maria Callas, who was discovered here in 1955. Inaugurated in 1778 and renowned since then for its acoustics, the theatre has numerous architectural quirks, such as a wooden vault, as a means of natural resonance, and the reduced size of the stage columns, implemented by Giuseppe Piermarini, who designed it. The theatre’s selection of operas, symphonies and ballets continues to be among the best internationally for its high-caliber artists.

The La Scala season officially opens each year with an opera on December 7, the feast day of St. Ambrose, patron saint of the city.

The inaugural evening is the high-society event of the year, with strict codes of elegance put in place for the Gala event (p. 160).

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L.O.V.E. the marble sculpture

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Among the newest museums in the city, it was opened in 2010 in Palazzo dell’Arengario. The museum (p. 155) hosts more than 400 works mostly by Italian artists of the 20th century. Boccioni, De Chirico, Morandi, Balla, Severini, Depero and Marinetti are displayed chronologically, from Futurism to Arte Povera, represented here by Giovanni Anselmo. The room on the top floor is worth a visit, where visitors can find a neon by Lucio Fontana, Luce Spaziale, a spectacular installation that deserves to be seen under the soft light of sundown. The restructuring by Italo Rota and Fabio Fornasari distributes the rooms through a sort of internal spiral, a bit like the Guggenheim, recalling a tribute to the great Frank Lloyd Wright. The Museo del Novecento provides an Art Deco break: on the third floor in the Giacomo Arengario restaurant (p. 203), eat in the outdoor seating area, under the loggia overlooking Piazza del Duomo.

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CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE II Once the go-to street for watching a movie, the busy Corso, connecting Piazza Duomo and Piazza San Babila, is today a pedestrian thoroughfare dotted with fashion and accessory boutiques. Shopping options here are wide-ranging and more accessible. The characteristic arcades were redesigned at the dawn of Italian unification: this eye-catching architecture offers protection whatever the weather.

pralines. With impeccable service and location, Pasticceria Marchesi (part of Prada) serves light lunches in addition to covering the aperitivo hour.

PASTICCERIA MARCHESI IN GALLERIA Pasticceria Marchesi (p. 213) opened its third location in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in September 2016, while its historic shop has been in via Santa Maria alla Porta since 1824. With a pastel décor and a tearoom for sweet and savoury breakfasts, it serves the finest mignon cakes in Milan. Specialties include the Aurora cake, Truffet cake and profiteroles, as well as sugardusted sweets, bonbons and

LA RINASCENTE At La Rinascente (p. 170), the elegant department store, you’ll find major fashion, accessories and jewellery brands, a seemingly boundless beauty department, a design supermarket on the basement floor and a gourmet paradise, The Food Market, on the top floor. The 7th-floor terrace looks out onto the spires of the cathedral, and is where you can choose a meal by different restaurants, from traditional Italian cuisine to a pizza at the mozzarella bar.

LEICA GALERIE Leica Galerie Milano is located inside the Leica store on Via Mengoni 4, just across from Piazza Duomo (p. 187). The gallery hosts exhibitions of important photographers, and has a bookshop that offers a wide selection of international photography authors.

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concerts or conferences. Square and massive, tables fill the brightly-lit space where Apple’s products are on display. The new store also vaunts real trees, attesting to an organic, natural and moderate vision of the world.

THE FINANCIAL DISTRICT A recent addition to Piazza Affari is the artwork by Maurizio Cattelan, L.O.V.E., whose acronym stands for Libertà (freedom), Odio (hate), Vendetta (revenge) and Eternità (eternity).

The marble sculpture shows a hand making a Fascist salute, each of the fingers made to look as if they were eroded by time – except for the middle finger. The sculpture leaves no room for doubt: it’s an act of irreverence toward both the idea of Fascism and the world of finance, embodied by Palazzo Mezzanotte, the headquarters of Milan’s stock exchange since 1932.

GALLERIE D’ITALIA A visit to Gallerie d’Italia (p.

153), stretching across three gems of Milanese aristocratic architecture, is an enchanting experience. At Palazzo Anguissola and Palazzo Brentani, you’ll find 19th-century masterpieces from Canova to Boccioni, Hayez to Segantini. The third building, Palazzo Beltrami, is home to 20thcentury art and hosts themed exhibitions. The renovation by architect Michele De Lucchi makes a stop here worthwhile, with the vault of this ex-bank, housing another 500 paintings, opened to the public. The gourmet restaurant, café and cocktail bar Vòce (p. 194) opened in the area recently, the latest gamble for Aimo e Nadia, the historic restaurant boasting not one, but two Michelin stars.

APPLE STORE A fountain in Piazza Liberty, imagined by the study of Norman Foster as a glass parallelepiped 8 metres tall, hides the entrance to the new Apple Store, two floors underground. There space vaunts a large flight of steps where visitors can sit and use the free Wi-Fi, listen to music, talk with friends, or participate in 67

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III SANT’AMBROGIO Founded in the 4th century, the basilica is one of oldest churches in the city, a striking example of Romanesque architecture (p. 150).

At Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, 15 IV SAN MAURIZIO AL MONASTERO MAGGIORE All the walls and ceilings were painted by Bernardino Luini, who worked in the ancient church between 1522 and 1529, depicting episodes of the Bible.

A triumph of frescoes (p. 151).

At Corso Magenta, 13 V CASTELLO SFORZESCO (p. 92)

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200 meters

VI LA TRIENNALE (p. 154) Built in 1933, is a vibrant space offering a wide range of activities. Situated in Parco Sempione, La Triennale is home to a permanent Design Museum.

At Viale Alemagna, 6

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CONSERVATIVE ALLURE today it houses a large share of the city’s art and archaeological collections, with one special work in particular: the Rondanini Pietà the last work by Michelangelo Buonarroti.

Behind the castle, as far as the Napoleonic Arco della Pace, views stretch out over Parco Sempione, the largest park in the city centre, where Milanesi hang out, have fun and enjoy sports. The Triennale preserves and drives the dignified breeze of practical Italian design, which began its life in Milan and continues to lead the world every year in April with the annual Milano Design Week appointment. The Triennale exhibition spaces become the focal point of a myriad of events and parties for all the international visitors.

Milan has none of the conservative beauty of other Italian cities, which often proves a restriction for residents. Exploring it by following your heart, devoid of destination, leads to extraordinary moments of discovery.

In this elegant residential neighbourhood with a Parisian soul, the laidback fabric of neoclassical buildings and Liberty-style villas along wide tree-lined avenues conceals two unique treasures: Sant’Ambrogio, the most important church in Milan after the Cathedral, and Leonardo da Vinci’s the Last Supper, in the monastery of the Basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie.

Under the duchy of Ludovico Sforza, the monumental Castello Sforzesco was home to one of the most refined Renaissance courts in the world; 85

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THE LAST SUPPER

Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper (p. 154), frescoed from 1495-97 on the commission of Ludovico Sforza in the refectory of the Dominican monastery of the Basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie, was immediately hailed by Leonardo’s contemporaries as the cornerstone of Renaissance art.

Leonardo, who was not fond of frescoing, chose to paint on the walls of the refectory using a technique similar to painting on canvas. The aim was to achieve those light effects so dear to him, but it proved incompatible with the humidity of the space, given its vicinity to the kitchens, bewildering experts and restorers until the final epic restoration that ended in 1999.

Today, the masterpiece requires special conditions to preserve it, with strict entrance procedures for visitors, in groups of maximum 25 for 15 minutes.

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Basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie 87

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2019 marks the 500th anniversary of the death of Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519). The most lavish exhibition will be at the Louvre in Paris, where the Mona Lisa is housed, but Milan was where the great genius lived, where he painted his Last Supper in the refectory of Santa Maria delle Grazie (p.

150). Only recently discovered in the gardens of Casa degli Atellani (p. 150), an incredibly beautiful Renaissance residence opposite the church, the Leonardo da Vinci vineyard was donated to the artist in 1498 by Ludovico Sforza, Duke of Milan. Today, the vineyard has been replanted with the original varietals used during da Vinci’s lifetime, including Malvasia di Candia, to make a wine that was popular with Renaissance connoisseurs. The house and gardens are must-see gems, open to visitors every day. The Pinacoteca Ambrosiana (p. 158) is home to remarkable works by Leonardo, including Portrait of a Musician and the Codex Atlanticus, which the museum has conserved since 1637.

The latter is the largest collection in the world of the artist’s original drawings and writings, comprising 1,119 sheets with preparatory sketches for his paintings, research related to mathematics, astronomy and optics, philosophical reflections, fairy tales, recipes and curious, futuristic projects for contraptions like hydraulic pumps, parachutes and war machinery. The Museo Nazionale Scienza e Tecnologia “Leonardo da Vinci” (p. 155) displays the spectacular models made in the 1950s using Leonardo’s drawings, presenting a juxtaposition between art and science as it explores the various fields of interest and study for Leonardo, inventor, scientist, engineer, mathematician and painter.

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Drawings by Leonardo da Vinci Biblioteca Ambrosiana 89

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Arco della Pace 90

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Above, Parco Sempione Below, the Triennale’s terrace 91

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It was originally a fortress that Gian Galeazzo Visconti had built in the 15th century. One hundred years later, Francesco Sforza made it the noble residence after he took possession of Milan. Ludovico Sforza was next, founding one of Europe’s most sophisticated courts, calling upon the best artists of the time to adorn the castle, including the likes of Leonardo da Vinci and Filarete. The sprawling building - Piazza d’Armi, a set of courtyards (Corte Ducale, Corte della Rocchetta), a series of towers, crenellated walls and trenches - was downgraded to military use for centuries, until the city converted it into a unique museum complex, divided into the Civic Museums, which host permanent exhibitions and a rich program of temporary art exhibitions and events (p. 151).

Museum of Ancient Art (p. 155) Egyptian Museum (p. 152) Prehistory and Protohistory Museum (p. 158) Museum of Applied Arts (p. 156) Museum of Musical Instruments (p. 156) Museum of Furniture and Wooden Sculptures (p. 156) Biblioteca Trivulziana (p. 150) Pinacoteca (p. 158) Rondanini Pietà (p. 157): Michelangelo’s last unfinished work (1564) with Christ and the Virgin Mary melded in a metaphysical embrace. The new outfitting by Michele De Lucchi with anti-seismic base is located in the Spanish hospital at the Castello Sforzesco.

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Castello Sforzesco 93

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CITYLIFE CityLife reveals Milan in all its sweeping facets.

This area was a residential neighbourhood, dominated by the imposing Fiera Campionaria warehouses, but with the advent of the new, daring Fiera in Rho designed by the architect Fukas, near the international airport, the vacant place was the perfect opportunity for a complex architectural project, with beautiful houses, two towers designed by Zaha Hadid and Daniel Libeskind, a third skyscraper by Arata Isozaki known as “il Dritto,” a beautiful park and a lively shopping mall open every day. Inside, you can find a myriad of stores and an entire floor dedicated to food and wine, full of restaurants and delicious delicacies.

What to see: Attimi by Heinz Beck: the bistro by the famous chef offers curated and simple dishes, like his excellent spaghetti with tomato sauce and basil.

Peck: historic Milanese eatery offering the best Italian delicacies.

Design Democracy: design pieces at affordable prices, many gift ideas and travel kits.

Huawei Experience Store: this flagship store is the only one in Europe; it’s spaceship-like architecture is home to smartphones, headphones and phone covers.

CityLife Anteo: seven rooms for futuristic cinema, showing films in their original language.

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Palazzo dell’Arte has housed La Triennale (p. 154) since 1933, founded to promote design and applied arts through international shows. Today it’s home to the Triennale Design Museum, with exhibitions that retrace the history of iconic objects crafted in Italy, tackling issues linked to design and production. The Triennale is a vibrant space, offering a wide range of activities, a theatre, a bookshop and design-oriented window displays.

It’s a great place for refreshments, with two bars (one of which is outside in the garden) and a restaurant boasting views of the park.

PARCO SEMPIONE Thirty-eight hectares of English-style lawns, paths, copses, lakes and areas dedicated to sports and home to the city’s first running trail: 3.2 kilometers long, well-marked with signs every five hundred meters.

The route starts at the entrance to the Arena in Via Byron, heads towards the Arco della Pace and continues along the gravel road that leads to the Triennale Gardens. A complete lap around the Castle takes you back to where you started. Enjoy the clean morning air and discover corners of the park that usually go unnoticed: admire the original Aquarium built in 1906, the Torre Branca (p. 159) by Gio Ponti (1933), the metaphysical Teatro by Alberto Burri (1973), recently given a new life, and De Chirico’s newly-restored Mysterious Baths fountain (1973).

RAW A “cabinet of curiosities” with a range of unusual furniture and objects, rich in charm, ancient and modern: old banners, birdcages and pieces of furniture that blend with Nordic and nature settings. Inside, there’s also a Pineider shop, dedicated to paper and writing instruments over the last 250 years. With a passion for re-

TRIENNALE AND DESIGN MUSEUM Situated in Parco Sempione, 96

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search, Paolo Badesco opened his store in an elegant Liberty-style building, achieving the perfect balance between style and trend.

Located at Corso Magenta, 10.

lerists, her space accessed via a delightful courtyard. During the annual Design Week, the courtyard becomes “the place to be,� a meeting space for the press, designers, critics and the myriad talent discovered by the hostess, including Front Design, Maarten Baas, Nacho Carbonell, Formafantasma and Piet Hein Eek. The adjacent restaurant Bistro Aimo e Nadia, with a country chic menu, is a fortuitous blend of the cultures of Italian cuisine and Italian design at Via Matteo Bandello 14/16.

SAN MAURIZIO, A TRIUMPH OF FRESCOS All the walls and ceilings inside the ex-convent San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore were painted

by Bernardino Luini, who worked in the church between 1522 and 1529, depicting episodes of the Bible. This triumph of frescoes is considered to be the Milanese Sistine Chapel (p. 151). Located at Corso Magenta, 13.

TASCHEN Designed by Marc Newson, the first Taschen book store in Italy stretches across 120 square metres and two floors, boasting spectacular designer furniture, from Gio Ponti to Angelo Manguarotti, a floor designed like a jungle by the artist Jones Wood and books containing the most beautiful images in the world.

This space is a tribute to Milan as a place of culture and encounters. Located on Via Meravigli.

ROSSANA ORLANDI A BIT OF MILANESE TASTE Style and taste are the buzzwords of this design pantheon, art gallery, atelier and boutique, which serves up objects, home accessories and state-of-theart lighting, as well as jewellery and clothing. The sophisticated queen of this realm is Rossana Orlandi, one of the most influential avant-garde design gal97

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I SAN LORENZO The early-Christian Basilica of San Lorenzo dominates the Parco delle Basiliche, one of the loveliest green spaces in Milan, a haven of peace and tranquillity (p. 149).

II MUSEO NAZIONALE SCIENZA E TECNOLOGIA LEONARDO DA VINCI A tribute to the genius of Leonardo da Vinci in a beautiful cloister.

Among the attractions: trains, ships, the Toti submarine and an entire area dedicated to Space with a fragment of the Moon (p. 155).

At Via San Vittore, 21 III PIAZZA SANT’EUSTORGIO Piazza Sant’Eustorgio hides traces of medieval Milan. The church bell tower is the tallest in town (seventy-five meters high), built in 1306 and is the oldest in Europe after Big Ben. The Portinari Chapel is a Renaissance gem (p. 151).

IV NAVIGLI CANAL DISTRICT Home to the ancient river city, this is Milan at its most picturesque and popular, lapped by two historic canals, Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese.

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CREATIVES AND BON VIVANT gather in groups around the outside tables. From Porta Ticinese, skirting the Navigli and reaching the via Tortona area, you find yourself immersed in an eclectic, authentic and energetic atmosphere. Porta Ticinese is a race of noisy shopping and nightlife for creative types in the shadows of Roman columns and ancient basilicas.

Via Tortona and its environs, with its old industrial charm, looking ever more at its best since design set foot here thirty years ago, is now the city’s image platform on every level: fashion, showrooms, agencies, photography studios, publishing houses, museums and foundations. A charming wander with new concept stores, bars and restaurants, perfectly in sync with the ancient city.

The old river neighbourhood, that begins around the Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese canals and extends as far as the Darsena, is the evocative and at times picturesque “Old Milan,” which locals have expertly reshaped into a bohemian-chic hangout. Here, the typical case di ringhiera apartment blocks look out over airy courtyards full of plants, according to Milanese tradition, and the magical waterways, which add a certain lightness to the city. The street that flanks the Naviglio Grande has a sort of never-ending holiday feel, hailing from the area’s traditional trattorias, which never disappoint even the most jaded critic, and the aperitivo hour at sunset: men in shirts and ties turn up by bicycle, women sail in on their heels, while students 103

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This is Giorgio Armani’s exhibition space (p. 149), erected on the site of the former Nestlè warehouse, where the corn seeds were stored – the reason for its odd name – just opposite Teatro Armani, designed in 2000 by Japanese master Tadao Ando. The renovation of the building, which the Milanese designer followed himself, with 4,500 meters spread over four floors, is used to host exhibitions and cultural events in line with the Armani philosophy. Sober architecture with monumental forms, organized in such a way that functional needs are met with rationality. The interior, entirely in concrete, is centered on an open courtyard across three heights, with two side levels and crossed by a central staircase connecting the four floors.

There is a gift shop at the entrance, a bar & restaurant with an outdoor terrace and a digital archive on the top floor. The archive contains sketches, technical drawings and material related to the company’s prêt-àporter and haute couture collections with workstations, touchscreen tables and a projection area for researchers or fashion lovers. When asked the reason for the building after the anthological exhibition on the 40th anniversary of the fashion house, which marked the museum’s opening in 2015, Armani replied, “Just as much as food, clothes are also a part of life”.

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Milan’s old port, the Darsena, was originally built in 1603, but these days it’s experiencing a major revival. The brand-new neighbourhood, including the Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese areas, has become a strip of cafes and restaurants and is an essential part of contemporary and romantic Milan. Take a stroll here amid the greenery, enjoying original views of the canals, made all the more wonderful at sunset. Take advantage of the boat that leaves from Alzaia Naviglio Grande 4 and winds through the historic centre for 55 minutes. During the summer, the streets and sidewalks come to life with outdoor seating, while in the winter, the atmosphere transforms into something of a winter wonderland, with a temporary ice rink over the water. During happy hour, for a well-prepared cocktail, head to Morgante Cocktail & Soul (Vicolo Lavandai, 2), a secret spot hidden in a side street. A valid alternative is the popular Mag Cafè (Ripa di aaaaaa Porta Ticinese, 43), offering a more informal drinking experience. aaaaaaa 110

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has been transformed into an imaginary world, highlighting the perception of outdoor and indoor gardens. The venue explores ideas of tropical and bohemian vibes with oversized palms and luscious monstera plants, nomadic rugs and armchairs designed by Le Corbusier for Chandigarh. A nice mix of modernist philosophy and polished Milanese culture.

TEATRO ALLA SCALA BACKSTAGE Discover, with a guided tour, the backstage of every performance at Teatro alla Scala. Since 2001, the workshops have been located in the Ansaldo area, a huge 20,000-square-metre facility divided into three pavilions, dedicated to set design, sculpture, carpentry works, set assembly, costume design and laundry. The premises hold more than 60,000 stage costumes. Wishing to share this world, La Scala decided to open the Ansaldo Workshops (p.

149) to the public, where visitors can embark on a journey behind the scenes and see the creation of a show first-hand.

COLUMNS OF SAN LORENZO These sixteen incredible columns with Corinthian capitals, assembled between the 11th and 12th centuries with Roman-era materials, are one part of the rare surviving artefacts from Imperial Milan.

They appear like a mirage just inside the Porta Ticinese, immersed in the heart of Milan’s nightlife and go-to aperitivo spot, making it a popular night hangout among young locals.

SIX SIX is a clever combination of design gallery, bistro and green boutique studio (Via Scaldasole, 7). Described as the ultimate place to be, with a contemporary smoky grey palette and a cool identity, SIX is built around a courtyard that

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area home to the Ansaldo steel plants, this now-turned multidisciplinary center dedicated to the cultures of the world, known as the Museum of Cultures (p. 154), was designed

by David Chipperfield. At its heart is the spectacular Agorà, a square in name and deed, located on the first floor and free to visitors. All year round, a selection of ethno-anthropological objects from the civic collections and 200 artworks are accompanied by temporary exhibitions of the likes of Joan Miró, Jean-Michel Basquiat and Frida Kahlo. The third floor hosts the restaurant, a successful venture by Michelinstarred chef Enrico Bartolini (p. 194), who offers his contemporary classic cuisine, while the bistro is on the ground floor.

simple gabled façade is decorated with a beautiful portal: inside, traces of historic frescoes are visible. The many weddings celebrated here attest to the fondness the Milanese have for this church that, enveloped in a romantic atmosphere, is the ideal background for new love.

ECLISS A short walk from the Porta Genova train station, where the Ripa intersects with the Naviglio, sits an old complex of houses that were transformed about 20 years ago into a concept store, a treasure chest of interior design trends and wondrous objects. While during the year the modernist aesthetic style prevails, with furniture

by B&B, Knoll and Paola Lenti, from October to January the space transforms into an enchanting Christmas realm, becoming a vast store where all the possible options in holidayinspired interior design are on display in a vintage-delux style.

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SAN CRISTOFORO CHURCH Duchesses, kings and emperors would leave from the paired Church of San Cristoforo, a 14th-century masterpiece, to enter Milan via the water. The 113

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III UNIVERSITY OF MILAN V IA C. BAZZI “LA STATALE” The main public university in P IAZZA Milan finds its home in one of the INSUBRIA city’s first Renaissance buildings, Cà Granda, built in 1467 (p. 160).

At Via Festa del Perdono, 7 IV BIBLIOTECA SORMANI The 16th-century Palazzo Sormani is today the city library, boasting the largest collection of books, periodicals and multimedia in Milan. A reading garden at the back of the building is open from April to October (p. 150).

At Corso di Porta Vittoria, 6 V ROTONDA DELLA BESANA (p. 120) VI FONDAZIONE PRADA (p. 122)

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CULTURED AND FUN shows. This is where you’ll find laidback charm, a mixture of real life and pure Milanese style that is very much part of the city’s fascination.

The new Fondazione Prada - Studio OMA’s incredible conversion of an early 20thcentury factory into an exhibition space - and the top schools in the neighbourhood, including Bocconi University and La Statale University, spark undeniable cultural energy and diversions aimed at a young audience.

Another cultural space is the Rotonda della Besana, where temporary events take place all year round, while the church has become the Children’s Museum.

The sunny gardens are the perfect playground for kids.

Far from the gate that marked the entrance of Napoleon and his French troops in 1796 and erected about two hundred years before Mary Margaret of Austria passed through on her way to Madrid to marry Philip III of Spain, today Porta Romana leads into an elegant neighbourhood not too far from the city center. “Pearl” in Latin is “margarita”, and therefore the pearls added to the arch were a tribute to Mary Margaret.

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Designed by architects Attilio Arrigoni and Francesco Croce between 1696 and 1719 and completed in the early 18th century, the core of the Rotonda is the church that stands in the middle of the lobate, hectagonal colonnade portico, named San Michele ai Nuovi Sepolcri, now deconsecrated and used as an exhibition and cultural space, at Via Besana 12. The church is home to the MUBA - Milan Children’s Museum (p. 154), popular with families who live locally and from further afield. The whole area was originally a cemetery annexed to the Ospedale Maggiore (the main hospital).

The building fell into disuse until 1958, when the ownership passed to Milan’s city council. It took a few years to finally transform it into a cultural centre, with a carefully maintained ring-shaped public garden, open from sunrise to sunset.

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The new Milan venue of the Fondazione Prada (p. 152) was unveiled in 2015, designed by Rem Koolhaas architectural firm OMA. Its multi-building architectural structure, a converted early 20th-century distillery with a combination of pre-existing buildings and three new edifices, Podium, Cinema and Torre, is a superb example of the interaction between conservative architecture and new styles: two creative moments in perfect balance, yet which remain clearly separate from one another. At the same time, the structural complexity allows for “open cultural scheduling in constant evolution,” as specified by Koolhaas. The complex extends over a total surface area of 19,000 square meters, most of which are used for exhibitions. The building at the entrance to the new centre welcomes the public with two spaces: a children’s educational area and the Bar Luce (p. 217), designed by Californian director Wes Anderson, which recreates the atmosphere of a coffee shop, reminiscent of Italian popular culture of the 1950s and 1960. The bar is already a regular neighborhood hangout as well as a hotspot for the general public.

A new part of the Fondazione Prada recently opened on the top floor of Pasticceria Marchesi in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, located above the central octagon.

Titled Osservatorio it is an exhibition space focused on photography and the visual arts. The restoration project allowed parts of the original wood flooring and wide glass windows to be preserved. Visitors can purchase a ticket to visit the Fondazione Prada that is also valid for Osservatorio within 7 days (p. 157).

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HIGHLIGHTS white and slightly Baroque wainscoting is the perfect backdrop to the small objects, unique pieces made by hand.

Many of these are made to order, especially the famous rings, like the Poema, a large gold band that can be engraved with phrases or poems.

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GARDENS OF GUASTALLA An almost unreal silence surrounds the gardens and the nearby Synagogue (p. 159), built in an eclectic style in 1892 as the main place of Jewish worship in Milan. The Guastalla gardens are among the smallest in Milan, covering just 12,000 square meters, but they are undoubtedly the city’s oldest public gardens. They were created in 1555 on the orders of Countess Paola Ludovica Torelli della Guastalla (hence their name) in the Italian style. The gardens feature a Baroque fishpond, replacing the original 16th-century lake, a Neoclassical temple, alleys, fountains and almost 200 trees, including maple, hornbeam, horse chestnut, magnolia, linden and other rare species.

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L’ARABESQUE L’Arabesque is a decidedly unique concept store that includes various shops, a café & restaurant and a niche bookstore at Largo Augusto, 10. The passion Chichi Meroni, a decorator and lifestyle queen, has for 1940s and 50s vintage led her to establish this spectacular place, where clients can find a gallery with modern furniture and lighting and stores selling men’s and women’s fashions selected especially for L’Arabesque, high-end perfumes by Gardenia d’Ysabey and Caron and accessories for completing the total look.

ANACONDA GIOIELLI Anaconda, the jewellery store

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for their marrons glacés. Using the same recipe since 1911, they are made almost entirely by hand, without any added preservatives. Cooked slowly for ten days in a sugar syrup, then glazed and baked quickly in the oven to make the surface shiny: this is the art handed down from generation to generation, creating little chestnut-flavoured gems with an ever so crispy glaze, not too thick and not too fine so that it crumbles. On your second visit to Galli, try the chocolate-coated pralines made from candied chestnut paste!

VIA CERVA Luchino Visconti was born in 1906 in his family’s palatial residence on Via Cerva, though little remains of the building today, like a stone coat of arms with a sculpted biscione, the family’s heraldic motif, and some elements that have been incorporated into the bank. In this primarily pedestrianized street, there are still small artisan workshops, including the most famous cobbler in the city, Turi (Via Cerva 19), where customers can find everything they need for shoe care. For lunch, head to the Trattoria da Pino (Via Cerva 14), where brothers Mauro and Marco serve excellent traditional dishes.

Lastly, Barberino (Via Cerva 11) is a symbol of masculine elegance, boasting the atmosphere of a historic Italian barber.

BAGNI MISTERIOSI AT TEATRO FRANCO PARENTI It’s the only theatre in the world with a pool (p. 161), and in the summer, visitors can go for a swim, as well as attend theatrical performances and happy hours with classical and jazz music. In the winter, the pool is transformed into an ice skating rink, surrounded by art, music and magic.

THE MARRONS GLACÉS AT GIOVANNI GALLI In the Giovanni Galli bakery (p.

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MANDARIN BAR & BISTROT IS THE HOTEL’S BEATING HEART, FEATURING A MODISH ICONIC DESIGN INSIDE AND A BUCOLIC SETTING IN THE COURTYARD OUTSIDE. THE BAR’S ATMOSPHERE EVOLVES FROM RELAXED TO VIBRANT AS THE DAY UNFOLDS.

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GUESTROOMS & SUITES The guest rooms are decorated in neutral tones that reflect classic Milanese elegance. In contrast to the vibrant ambience of the public areas, they are calm and homely, featuring tones of beige, black and white that offer an elegant understated touch.

The spacious Italian marble bathrooms overlook the hotel’s inner courtyards or city rooftops.

Comprising its own private apartment with living area and kitchen, the Presidential Suite offers wonderful views of Via Monte di PietĂ .

High ceilings and French doors provide ample illumination and create a sense of space. The sumptuous bathroom has an azure Brazilian marble floor, a freestanding oval shaped bathtub and walk-in shower. Decorated with bespoke furniture, rich textiles and lavish carpets, it combines Milanese elegance with an East Asian touch.

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FORNASETTI SUITE Created as a tribute to renowned Italian master of design Piero Fornasetti, the stylish Fornasetti Suite is the epitome of chic and fashionable Milanese design.

It is decorated with luxury materials and furnished with original Fornasetti pieces. Characterised by high ceilings and abundant natural light, it comprises a living room, bedroom, master bathroom and guest bathroom. The spacious master bathroom has a walk-in shower and freestanding bathtub.

Framed mirrors adorn the olive-green walls of the lounge area, while a large pillar decorated with monochromatic wallpaper draws the eye to the centre of the room, and acts as a divider between the dining room and lounge area.

The suite’s eye-catching design reflects the highest levels of Milanese creativity.

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PREMIER SUITE Dedicated as a tribute to Italian designer Giò Ponti, the Premier Suite features simple décor that reflects Gio Ponti’s minimalist style. Decorated in black walnut, it boasts a sophisticated melange of modern design furnishings, with a number of pieces by Christofle that are based on Ponti’s designs.

A glamorous Sarfatti chandelier hangs above a marble Eros table, while an original console table by Ponti adorns the lounge area.

Splashes of navy blue lend a calm and composed feel, with sapphire-coloured textiles in the bedroom matching the Cattilina armchairs in the living area. Natural materials dominate, with oak wood-panelled walls and parquet floors.

The spacious bathroom has a Spoon XL designer bathtub

by Italian manufacturer Agape, along with double sink vanity units and walk-in shower.

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A HAVEN DEDICATED TO WELLNESS, THE SPA OFFERS A HOLISTIC APPROACH PROVIDING PHYSICAL, EMOTIONAL AND MENTAL EQUILIBRIUM . THE ‘FENG SHUI’ ARCHITECTURE AND THE TREATMENTS RESTORATIVE ON OFFER REFLECT THE HOTEL’S ORIENTAL HERITAGE. 141

RUN BY EXECUTIVE CHEF ANTONIO GUIDA, THE MICHELIN-STARRED SETA RESTAURANT OFFERS GUESTS AN INTIMATE GOURMET EXPERIENCE. A TEMPLE OF GASTRONOMY FEATURING INNER COURTYARD AN ELEGANT FOR AL FRESCO DINING, IT FEATURES CONTEMPORARY INTERIORS WITH A CLASSIC TIMELESS DESIGN.

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ONE-DAY LEICA PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE

Discover Milan from a different perspective, together with a Leica photographer, using a Leica camera.

Hone your photography skills with a 3-hour tour for two with a professional Leica photographer who will accompany you on foot around the city. Choose from three itineraries that explore contemporary architecture, street fashion photography and the city’s hidden courtyards and unexpected hideaways.

You can select your own itineraries, with 5- or 8-hour tours, perfect for discovering new things. Review the photographs taken with the Leica photographer, who will share tips on how to improve your photography performance and capture the perfect shot. Enjoy a one-on-one editing session and receive all your photographs on a USB drive. Custom-made photo books can be organised on request.

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PLACES Our General Manager’s favourites

TOP ATTRACTIONS, ART & THEATRES Our Concierge’s favourites

SHOPPING Our Chef’s favourites

RESTAURANTS & FOOD Our Barman’s favourites

APERITIF & WINE BARS Our Event Manager’s favourites

NIGHTLIFE Our PR Director’s favourites

OUTSIDE MILAN

TOP ATTRACTIONS, MUSEUMS ART & THEATRES

OUR GENERAL MANAGER’S FAVOURITES

TOP ATTRACTIONS, ART & THEATRES

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Ph. +39 02 72320300 museoastronomomico.brera.inaf.it Bagni Misteriosi at Teatro Franco Parenti Monday to Friday 4.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Saturday and Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Carlo Botta, 18 Ph. +39 02 89731800 bagnimisteriosi.com Basilica of San Babila Monday to Friday 7.30 am to noon and 3.30 pm to 7 pm; Saturday 8 am to noon and 4 pm to 7.30 pm; Sunday 8.30 am to 1.30 pm and 4.30 pm to 7.30 pm. Free entry Piazza San Babila Ph. +39 02 76002877 Basilica of San Lorenzo Monday to Friday 8 am to 6.30 pm; Saturday and Sunday 9 am to 7 pm. Free entry Corso di Porta Ticinese, 35 Ph. +39 02 89404129 sanlorenzomaggiore.com Basilica of San Simpliciano Monday to Saturday 7.30 am to noon and 3 pm to 7 pm; Sunday 8 am to 4 pm Free entry Piazza San Simpliciano, 7 Ph.+39 02 862274 sansimpliciano.it

Accademia di Belle Arti Via Brera 28 Ph. +39 02 869551 accademiadibrera.milano.it Ansaldo Workshops Tuesday and Thursday by appointment. Full Ticket Euro 25. Under the age of 18 Euro 15; reservation on line Via Bergognone, 34 Ph. +39 02 43353521 teatroallascala.org Archaeological Museum Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm. Full Ticket Euro 5,00. Free admission under the age of 18. Free admission every day in the last hour of opening and on Tuesdays from 2 pm Corso Magenta, 15 Ph. +39 02 88445208 museoarcheologicomilano.it Armani Silos Wednesday to Sunday 11 am to 7 pm. Full Ticket Euro 12.

Free admission under the age of 6 Via Bergognone, 40 Ph. +39 02 91630010 armanisilos.com Astronomical Museum and Observatory Monday to Friday 9 am to 4.30 pm. Free entry Palazzo Brera, Via Brera, 28 149

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to noon and 1.30 pm to 4.30 pm. Free entry Piazza Castello, Cortile della Rocchetta Ph. +39 02 88463696 trivulziana.milanocastello.it Boschi Di Stefano House Museum Tuesday to Sunday 10 am to 6 pm Free entry Via Giorgio Jan, 15 Ph. +39 02 88464748 fondazioneboschidistefano.it Botanical Gardens Monday to Saturday 10 am to 6 pm (from 1st april to al 31th october); Monday to Saturday 9.30 am to 4.30 pm (from 1st november to 31th march) Free entry Via Brera, 28 Via F.lli Gabba, 10 Ph. +39 02 50314683 museoortibotanicistatale.it Casa degli Atellani and Leonardo’s Vineyard Monday to Sunday 9 am to 6 pm . Full Ticket Euro 10 Free admission under the age of 5 Corso Magenta, 65 Ph. +39 02 4816150 vignadileonardo.com

Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio Monday to Saturday 9.30 am to noon and 2.30 pm to 6 pm Sunday 3 pm to 5 pm Free entry Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, 15 Ph. +39 02 86450895 basilicasantambrogio.it Basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie Monday to Saturday 7 am to noon and 3 pm to 7.15 pm Sunday 7.30 am to 12.30 pm and 15.30 pm to 9 pm. Free entry Via Giuseppe Antonio Sassi, 3 Ph. +39 02 4676111 legraziemilano.it Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense Monday to Friday 8.30 am to 6.20 pm; Saturday 9 am to 2 pm Free entry Via Brera,28 Ph. +39 02 86460907 braidense.it Biblioteca Sormani Monday to Saturday 9 am to 6 pm. Free entry Corso di Porta Vittoria, 6 Ph. +39 02 88463397 comune.milano.it/ bibliotecasormani Biblioteca Trivulziana (at Castello Sforzesco) Monday to Friday 9 am 150

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to noon and 3.30 pm to 6.30 pm. Free entry Piazza Sant’Eustorgio, 1 Ph. +39 02 58101583 santeustorgio.it Church of Santa Maria del Carmine Monday to Sunday 7.30 am to noon and 4 pm to 7 pm Free entry Piazza del Carmine, 2 Ph. +39 02 86463365 chiesadelcarmine.it Church of Santa Maria presso San Satiro Tuesday to Saturday 9.30 am to 5.30 pm; Sunday 2 pm to 5.30 pm Free Entry Via Torino, 17/19 Ph. +39 02 874683 Duomo Milano Monday to Sunday 8 am to 7 pm last admission at 6.10 pm.

Full Ticket Euro 3. The ticket includes admission to the Cathedral, Duomo Museum and Church of San Gottardo in Corte Piazza del Duomo Ph. +39 02 72022656 duomomilano.it

Castello Sforzesco Monday to Sunday 7 am to 7 pm. Free Entry Piazza Castello Ph. +39 02 88463700 milanocastello.it Cathedral’s terrace Monday to Sunday 9 am to 7 pm; last admission at 6.10 Full Ticket Euro 9 admission on foot; Euro 13 admission by lift. Free admission under the age of 6 Piazza del Duomo Ph. +39 02 72023375 duomomilano.it Church of San Cristoforo on the Naviglio Monday to Friday 8.30 am to 7 pm, with extended hours following celebrations on Saturday and Sunday Via San Cristoforo, 3 Ph. +39 02 48951413 chiesasancristoforo.it Church of San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore Tuesday to Sunday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm. Free Entry Corso Magenta, 15 Ph. +39 02 88445208 Church of Sant’Eustorgio and Portinari Chapels Monday to Sunday 7.45 am 151

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Duomo Museum Monday to Sunday 10 am to 6 pm; Wednesday closed.

Ticket Euro 3 Piazza del Duomo, 12 Ph. +39 02 72023453 museo.duomomilano.it Egyptian Museum (at Castello Sforzesco) Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 4.30 pm. Full ticket Euro 5, including admission to all Castello Sforzesco museums.

This section is closed to the public for the first half of 2019 due to renovations Piazza Castello Ph. +39 02 88463700 museoegizio.milanocastello.it Fondazione Arnaldo Pomodoro Tuesday to Friday 11 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 7pm.

Free entry into the exhibition space Via Vigevano, 9 Ph. +39 02 89075394 fondazionearnaldopomodoro.it Fondazione Carriero Tuesday to Sunday 11 am to 6 pm. Free entry Via Cino del Duca, 4 Ph. +39 02 36747039 fondazionecarriero.org

Fondazione Feltrinelli Multipurpose Room: Monday to Friday 9.30 am to 5.30 pm Reading Room: Monday to Thursday 9.30 am to 5.30 pm and Friday 9.30 am to 1 pm.

Free entry Viale Pasubio, 5 Ph. +39 02 4958341 fondazionefeltrinelli.it Fondazione Forma per la Fotografia Wednesday to Sunday 11 am to 8 pm. Free Entry Via Meravigli, 5 Ph. +39 02 58118067 formafoto.it Fondazione Franco Albini Monday to Friday 9 am to 1 pm only by appointment, full ticket euro 10. Thursday 9 am to 4 pm, full ticket euro 5.

Via Telesio, 13 Ph. +39 02 4982378 fondazionefrancoalbini.com Fondazione Gianfranco FerrĂŠ Via Tortona, 37 Ph.+39 02 36580109 fondazionegianfrancoferre.com Fondazione Prada Monday, Wednesday, Thursday 10 am to 7 pm; Friday, Saturday, Sunday 10 am to 8 pm. Full Ticket Euro 10. Free admission 152

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to noon and 2 pm to 6 pm visits by appointment only. Free entry Via Stilicone, 10 Ph. +39 02 341071 fonderiabattaglia.com Gallery Kaufmann Repetto Tuesday to Saturday 11 am to 7.30 pm. Free entry Via di Porta Tenaglia, 7 Ph. +39 02 72094331 kaufmannrepetto.com Gallerie d’Italia Tuesday to Sunday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm; Thursday 9.30 am to 10.30 pm. Full Ticket Euro 10 (free admission first Sunday of the month). Free admission under the age of 18 Piazza della Scala, 6 Ph. +39 800 167619 gallerieditalia.com Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Free entry Piazza del Duomo GAM - Gallery of Modern Art Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm. Full Ticket Euro 5. Free admission under the age of 18.

Free admission every day in the last hour of opening and on Tuesdays from 2 pm Via Palestro, 16 Ph. +39 02 88445943 gam-milano.com

for childrens Largo Isarco, 2 Ph. +39 02 56662611 Fondazione Riccardo Catella Monday to Friday 9 am to 6 pm by appointment only Via Gaetano De Castillia, 28 Ph. +39 02 45475195 / 96 fondazionericcardocatella.org Fondazione Studio Museo Achille Castiglioni Guided tours only by appointment: Tuesday to Saturday 10 am, 11 am and noon (Saturday only with a minimum of 15 people); Thursday 6.30 pm, 7.30 pm and 8.30 pm. Full Ticket Euro 10. Free admission under the age of 6 Piazza Castello, 27 Ph. +39 02 8053606 fondazioneachillecastiglioni.it Fondazione Studio Museo Vico Magistretti Tuesday 10 am to 6 pm; Thursday 2 pm to 8 pm. Full ticket euro 5.

Ultimo sabato del mese 11 am to 3 pm free entry. out Via Vincenzo Bellini,1 Ph. +39 02 76002964 vicomagistretti.it Fonderia Artistica Battaglia Foundry: Monday to Friday 8 am to noon and 1 pm to 5 pm.

Museum: Monday to Friday 9 am 153

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Via Stilicone, 19 Ph. +39 02 29000101 liarumma.it Massimo De Carlo Gallery Tuesday to Saturday 11 am to 7 pm. Free entry Piazza Belgioioso, 2 Ph. +39 02 36636990 massimodecarlo.com Monica De Cardenas Gallery Tuesday to Friday 3 pm to 7 pm; Saturday noon to 7 pm Free entry Via Francesco Viganò, 4 Ph. +39 02 29010068 monicadecardenas.com MUBA - Milan Children’s Museum Tuesday to Friday 9.30 am to 6 pm; Saturday and Sunday 9.45 am to 6 pm.

Full Ticket children Euro 8 + Adult Euro 6 Via Besana, 12 Ph. +39 02 43980402 muba.it MUDEC - Museum of Cultures Monday 2.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm; Thursday and Saturday 9.30 am to 10.30 pm Full Ticket Euro 5 for the permanent collection

Giò Marconi gallery Tuesday to Saturday 11 am to 7 pm. Free entry Via Tadino, 20 Ph. +39 02 29404373 giomarconi.com Highline Galleria Monday to Sunday 10 am to 9 pm. Full Ticket Euro 12. Free admission under the age of 14 Via Silvio Pellico, 2 Ph. +39 02 45397656 highlinegalleria.com Last Supper Cenacolo Vinciano Tuesday to Sunday 8.15 am to 7 pm. Full Ticket Euro 10 + booking Euro 2. Free admission under the age of 18 + booking Euro 2 Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie, 2 Ph. +39 02 92800360 cenacolo.it La Triennale di Milano Tuesday to Sunday 10.30 am to 8.30 pm. Ticket price varies according to exhibitions Viale Alemagna, 6 Ph. +39 02 724341 triennale.org Lia Rumma Gallery Tuesday to Saturday 11 am to 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm Free entry 154

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Via Tortona, 56 Ph. +39 02 54917 mudec.it Museo Bagatti Valsecchi Tuesday to Sunday 1 pm to 5.45 pm. Full ticket Euro 9.

Free admission under the age of 5 Via GesĂš, 5 Ph. +39 02 76006132 museobagattivalsecchi.org Museo del Novecento Monday 2.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm; Thursday and Saturday 9.30 am to 10.30 pm. Full Ticket Euro 5. Free admission in the last two hours of opening and on Tuesdays from 2 pm Via Marconi, 1 Ph. +39 02 88444061 museodelnovecento.org Museo del Risorgimento Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 5.30 pm Free entry Via Borgonuovo, 23 Ph. +39 02 88464177 museodelrisorgimento.mi.it Museo Nazionale Scienza e Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci Tuesday to Friday 9.30 am

to 5 pm; Saturday, Sunday and public holidays 9.30 am to 6.30 pm. Full Ticket Euro 10. Free admission under the age of 3 Via San Vittore, 21 Ph. +39 02 485551 museoscienza.org Museo Poldi Pezzoli Wednesday to Monday 10 am to 6 pm. Full ticket Euro 10. Free admission under the age of 10 Via Manzoni, 12 Ph. +39 02 794889-6334 museopoldipezzoli.it Museum of Ancient Art (at Castello Sforzesco) Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm. Full ticket Euro 5, including admission to all Castello Sforzesco museums. Free admission under the age of 18.

Free entry:Â on Tuesdays from 2 pm; from Wednesday to Sunday in the last hour of opening; every first Sunday of the month Piazza Castello Ph. +39 02 88463700 arteantica.milanocastello.it

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18. Free entry: on Tuesdays from 2 pm; from Wednesday to Sunday in the last hour of opening; every first Sunday of the month Piazza Castello Ph. +39 02 88463700 museodeimobili.milanocastello.it Museum of Musical Instruments (at Castello Sforzesco) Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm. Full ticket Euro 5, including admission to all Castello Sforzesco museums. Free admission under the age of 18.

Free entry: on Tuesdays from 2 pm; from Wednesday to Sunday in the last hour of opening; every first Sunday of the month Piazza Castello Ph. +39 02 88463700 strumentimusicali. milanocastello.it Natural History Museum Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm. Full ticket Euro 5.

Free admission under the age of 18 Corso Venezia, 55 Ph. +39 02 88463337 comune.milano.it/ museostorianaturale Nilufar gallery Monday 3 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Friday 10 am

Museum of Applied Arts (at Castello Sforzesco) Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm. Full ticket Euro 5, including admission to all Castello Sforzesco museums. Free admission under the age of 18.

Free entry: on Tuesdays from 2 pm; from Wednesday to Sunday in the last hour of opening; every first Sunday of the month Piazza Castello Ph. +39 02 88463700 artidecorative.milanocastello.it Museum of Costume, Fashion and Appearance Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 5.30 pm Full Ticket Euro 5. Free admission under the age of 18. Free admission every day in the last hour of opening and on Tuesdays from 2 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 6 Ph. +39 02 88446056 / 65735 costumemodaimmagine.mi.it Museum of Furniture and Wooden Sculptures (at Castello Sforzesco) Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm. Full ticket Euro 5, including admission to all Castello Sforzesco museums Free admission under the age of 156

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to 7.30 pm; Saturday 10 am to 7 pm. Free entry Via della Spiga, 32 Ph. +39 02 780193 Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 7 pm out Viale Vincenzo Lancetti, 34 Ph. +39 02 36590800 nilufar.com Osservatorio Fondazione Prada Monday to Friday 2 pm to 8 pm. Closed on Tuesday.

Saturday, Sunday 10 am to 8 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Ph. +39 02 56662611 fondazioneprada.org PAC - Pavilion of Contemporary Art Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm; Tuesday and Thursday 9.30 am to 10.30 pm Full Ticket Euro 8. Free admission under the age of 6 Via Palestro, 14 Ph. +39 02 88446359 pacmilano.it Palazzo Litta Cultura Tuesday to Sunday 10 am to 7.30 pm. Free entry Corso Magenta, 24 Ph. +39 02 39297676 palazzolittacultura.it

Palazzo Reale Monday 2.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm.

Thursday and Saturday 9.30 am to 10.30 pm. Full Ticket Euro 14. Free admission under the age of 6 Piazza Duomo, 12 Ph. +39 02 88465230 palazzorealemilano.it Pietà Rondanini (at Castello Sforzesco) Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm. Full ticket Euro 5, including admission to all Castello Sforzesco museums Free admission under the age of 18. Free entry: on Tuesdays from 2 pm; from Wednesday to Sunday in the last hour of opening; every first Sunday of the month Piazza Castello Ph. +39 02 88463700 rondanini.milanocastello.it Pinacoteca Ambrosiana Tuesday to Sunday 10 am to 6 pm. Full ticket Euro 15 Free admission under the age of 14 accompanied by an adult Piazza Pio XI, 2 Ph. + 39 02 806921 ambrosiana.eu 157

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Pinacoteca (at Castello Sforzesco) Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm. Full ticket Euro 5, including admission to all Castello Sforzesco museums Free admission under the age of 18. Free entry: on Tuesdays from 2 pm; from Wednesday to Sunday in the last hour of opening; every first Sunday of the month Piazza Castello Ph. +39 02 88463700 pinacoteca.milanocastello.it Pinacoteca di Brera Tuesday to Sunday 8.30 am to 7.15 pm. Brera di Sera: every first Thursday of the month from 6 pm to 10.15 pm, ticket price 2 euro. Full ticket: Euro 10. Free admission under the age of 18 Via Brera, 28 Ph. +39 02 72263298 pinacotecabrera.org Pirelli Hangar Bicocca Thursday to Sunday 10 am to 10 pm. Free entry out Via Chiese, 2 Ph. +39 02 66111573 hangarbicocca.org Pirelli Tower Piazza Duca d’Aosta, 5-7A Ph. +39 02 674821

Prehistory and Protohistory Museum (at Castello Sforzesco) Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm. Full ticket Euro 5, including admission to all Castello Sforzesco museums; Free admission under the age of 18.

Free entry: on Tuesdays from 2 pm; from Wednesday to Sunday in the last hour of opening; every first Sunday of the month Piazza Castello Ph. +39 02 88463700 museiarcheologici. milanocastello.it Public Library Venezia Monday, Wednesday, Friday 2 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday, Thursday 10 am to 7 pm; Saturday 10 am to 6 pm. Free entry Via Frisi 2/4 Ph. +39 02 88465799 milano.biblioteche.it Roman Amphitheatre Winter opening hours: Tuesday to Friday 9 am to 4.30 pm; Saturday 9 am to 2 pm. Summer opening hours: Tuesday to Friday 9 am to 6 pm; Saturday 9 am to 2 pm. Free entry Via E. De Amicis, 17 Ph. +39 02 89400555 parcoanfiteatromilano. beniculturali.it 158

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(Piazza della Scala) Ph. + 39 02 88797473 museoscala.org Torre Branca Winter: Wednesday 10.30 am to 12.30 pm and 4 pm to 6.30 pm; Saturday 10.30 am to 1 pm, 3 pm to 6.30 pm and 8.30 pm to midnight; Sunday 10.30 am to 2 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm.

Summer: Tuesday 3 pm to 7 pm and 8.30 pm to noon; Wednesday 10.30 am to 12.30 pm, 3 pm to 7 pm and 8.30 pm to midnight; Thursday and Friday 3 pm to 7 pm and 8.30 pm to midnight; Saturday and Sunday 10.30 am to 2 pm, 2.30 pm to 7.30 pm and 8.30 pm to midnight. Full Ticket.

Free admission under the age of 5. Euro 5 Viale Camoens, 2 Ph.+39 02 3314120 Ph.+39 335 6847122 museobranca.it

Stadio San Siro (Meazza) out Piazzale Moratti Ph. +39 02 48798201 Museum inside the stadium, Full Ticket: Tour and Museum 17 euro. Free admission under the age of 6. Winter: Monday to Sunday 9.30 am to 5 pm Summer: Monday to Sunday 9.30 am to 6 pm. Time changes on football match days or due to events Ph. +39 02 4042432 sansiro.net Studio Giangaleazzo Visconti gallery Monday to Thursday 10 am to 1 pm and 2.30 pm to 6 pm; Friday 10 am to 3 pm Corso Monforte, 23 Ph. +39 02 795251 studiovisconti.net Synagogue Guided tours only by appointment minimum of 10 people.

Full Ticket Euro 8 Via della Guastalla, 19 Ph. +39 02 54124043 Teatro alla Scala Museum Monday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm. Full Ticket Euro 9. Free admission under the age of 12 Largo Ghiringhelli, 1 159

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Ulrico Hoepli Planetarium c/o Indro Montanelli Public Gardens Monday to Friday 9 am to 5 pm; Tuesday and Thursday 9 pm (start time of the show) Saturday and Sunday 3 pm and 4.30 pm (starts time of the show). Full Ticket Euro 5 Corso Venezia, 57 Ph. + 39 02 88463340 comune.milano.it/planetario University of Milan La Statale Via Festa del Perdono, 7 Ph. +39 02 503111 unimi.it Villa Necchi Campiglio Wednesday to Sunday 10 am to 6 pm for guided tours only require advance booking Full Ticket Euro 10 Free admission under the age of 4 Via Mozart, 14 Ph. +39Â 02 76340121 fondoambiente.it

THEATRES Auditorium di Milano Largo Mahler Ph. +39 02 83389401 laverdi.org Elfo Puccini Corso Buenos Aires, 33 Ph. +39 02 00660606 elfo.org Piccolo Teatro Grassi Via Rovello, 2 Ph. +39 02 42411889 piccoloteatro.org Piccolo Teatro Strehler Largo Greppi, 1 Ph. +39 02 42411889 piccoloteatro.org Piccolo Teatro Studio Mariangela Melato Via Rivoli, 6 Ph. + 39 02 42411889 piccoloteatro.org Teatro alla Scala Via Filodrammatici, 2 Ph. + 39 02 88791 teatroallascala.org Teatro Carcano Corso di Porta Romana, 63 Ph. +39 02 55181377 teatrocarcano.com Teatro Dal Verme Via San Giovanni sul Muro, 2 160

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Ph. +39 02 87905 dalverme.org Teatro degli Arcimboldi out Viale dell’Innovazione, 20 Ph. +39 02 641142200 teatroarcimboldi.it Teatro Franco Parenti Via Lombardo, 14 Ph. +39 02 59995206 teatrofrancoparenti.it Teatro Litta Corso Magenta, 24 Ph. +39 02 86454545 mtmteatro.it Teatro Manzoni Via Manzoni, 42 Ph. +39 02 7636901 teatromanzoni.it Teatro Nazionale Via Rota, 1 (ex Piazza Piemonte) Ph. +39 02 00640888 teatronazionale.it Teatro Nuovo Piazza San Babila, 3 Ph. +39 02 794026 teatronuovo.it Triennale Teatro dell’Arte Ticket office open Tuesday to Sunday 10.30am to 7.30pm Viale Alemagna, 6 Ph. +39 02 72434258 triennale.org/teatro 161

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to 9 pm; Friday and Saturday 9.30 am to 10 pm; Sunday 10 am to 9 pm Piazza Duomo, Via Radegonda, 3 Ph. +39 02 8852487 agentprovocateur.com Alberta Ferretti Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm

FASHION & Other Stories Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 8 pm Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 1 Ph. +39 06 32832201 stories.com 7 For All Mankind Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7.30 pm Via Manzoni, 43 Ph. +39 02 49504361 7forallmankind.it 10 Corso Como Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Wednesday and Thursday 10.30 am to 9 pm Corso Como, 10 Ph. +39 02 6535531 10corsocomo.com Abercrombie Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm; Sunday noon to 8 pm

Via Monte Napoleone, 18 Ph. +39 02 76003095 albertaferretti.com Alexander McQueen Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Pietro Verri, 8 Ph. +39 02 76003374 alexandermcqueen.com/it Antonia Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Monday 3 pm to 7.30 pm Via Cusani, 5 Womenswear Ph. +39 02 86998340 Menswear Ph. +39 02 86984141 antonia.it Aspesi Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm

Corso Giacomo Matteotti, 12 Ph. +39 800 977 839 abercrombie.com Agent Provocateur La Rinascente Monday to Thursday 9.30 am

Via San Pietro all’Orto 22 Ph. +39 02 76022478 aspesi.com 163

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Ph. +39 02 795081 blumarine.com Boglioli Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm

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Via San Pietro all’Orto, 17 Ph. +39 02 76394051 boglioli.it Bonpoint Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm Via Manzoni, 15 Ph. +39 02 89010023 bonpoint.com Bottega Veneta Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm

Via Monte Napoleone, 27D Ph. +39 02 36692430 balmain.com Banner Monday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 pm to 7.30 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 8A Ph. +39 02 76004609 biffi.com Barba Napoli Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Gesù, 19 Ph. +39 02 76280782 barbanapoli.shop Biffi Boutique Monday 3 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm Corso Genova, 5/6 Ph. +39 02 8311601 biffi.com Blumarine Monday to Saturday 10 am to 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 30

Via Monte Napoleone, 27 Ph. +39 02 76024495 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 15 Ph. +39 02 77878116 bottegaveneta.com/it Brioni Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Gesù, 2/A Ph. +39 02 76390086 brioni.com Brunello Cucinelli Monday to Saturday 10 am 164

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Via Monte Napoleone, 26 Ph. +39 02 76317955 corneliani.com Cos Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8.30 pm; Sunday noon to 7 pm Corso Venezia, 5 Ph. +39 06 32832711 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm; Sunday noon to 7 pm Via Brera ,21 Ph. +39 02 32832711 cosstores.com Daad Dantone Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Monday 2 pm to 7.30 pm Via Santo Spirito, 24/A Ph. +39 02 76016045 daad-dantone.com Dior Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 12 Ph. +39 02 76317809 dior.com Dolce & Gabbana Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via della Spiga, 2 166

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it.falconeri.com Fay Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 15 Ph. +39 02 76017597 fay.com Fedeli Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 8 Ph. +39 02 76023392 fedelicashmere.com Fendi Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 3 Ph. +39 02 76021617 fendi.com/it Ferrari Store Monday to Sunday 10 am to 8 pm Via Giovanni Berchet, 2 Ph. +39 02 49490815 ferraristore.com Gallia e Peter Tuesday to Friday 10 am to 12.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 6.30 pm; Monday 2.30 pm to 6.30 pm; Saturday by appointment Via della Moscova, 60 Ph. +36 02 76002628 galliaepeter.it

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Giambattista Valli Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 12 Ph. +39 02 780218 giambattistavalli.com Gio Moretti Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 4 Ph. +39 02 76003186 giomoretti.com Giorgio Armani Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 2 Ph. +39 02 76003234 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Ph. +39 02 49483060 armani.com Emporio Armani Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Manzoni, 31 Ph.+39 02 72318600 armani.com/it Givenchy Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 11 Ph. +39 02 78623710 givenchy.com

Gucci Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 5/7 Ph.+39 02 771271 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Ph. +39 02 8597991 gucci.com Guess Monday to Sunday 9.30 am to 9 pm Piazza S. Babila, 4/B Ph. +39 02 76392070 guess.eu Hermès Monday to Saturday 10.15 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 12 Ph. +39 02 76003495 hermes.com Herno Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 3 T. +39 02 94432789 herno.it Hugo Boss Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 8 pm Corso Matteotti, 11 168

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Loewe Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 21 Ph. +39 02 76340533 loewe.com Loro Piana Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 27 Ph.+39 02 7772901 loropiana.com/it Louis Vuitton Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 2 Ph.+39 02 7771711 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 2 Ph.+39 02 7771711 louisvuitton.com Luciano Barbera Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via GesĂš, 9 Ph. +36 02 36737676 lucianobarbera.com 170

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Via Monte Napoleone, 12 Ph. +39 02 76317327 marni.com Max Mara Monday to Sunday 10 am to 8 pm Corso Vittorio Emanuele II corner Piazza del Liberty, 4 Ph. +39 02 76008849 it.maxmara.com Max&Co Monday to Sunday 10 am to 8 pm Corso Vittorio Emanuele II corner Piazza del Liberty, 4 Ph. +39 02 780433 it.maxandco.com Michael Kors Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 8 Ph. +39 02 76341381 michaelkors.it Missoni Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 8 (entrance Via Sant’Andrea) Ph. +39 02 76003555 missoni.com/it

Luisa Beccaria Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Formentini, 1 corner Via Fior Chiari, 17/A Ph. +39 02 801417 luisabeccaria.it Luisa Spagnoli Monday to Sunday 10 am to 8 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II,69 Ph. +39 02 8057577 luisaspagnoli.it M. Bardelli Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Monday 3 pm to 7.30 pm Corso Magenta, 13 Ph. +39 02 86450734 mbardelli.com Maliparmi Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Monday 3 pm to 7 pm Via Solferino, 3 Ph. +39 02 72093899 maliparmi.com/it Malo Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 18 Ph. +39 02 76016109 malo.it Marni Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm 171

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Miu Miu Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 21 Ph. +39 02 76001799 miumiu.com Moorer Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 10 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 48 Ph. +39 02 76028548 moorer.clothing Moncler Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm

Love Moschino Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Corso Venezia, 2 Ph. +39 02 84256142 moschino.com/it Mr&Mrs Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 12 Ph. +39 02 80012371 mmi.it Neil Barrett Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm Via Santo Spirito, 25 Ph.+39 02 49518850 neilbarrett.com Nonostante Marras Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm

Via Monte Napoleone, 1 Ph. +39 02 76341316 Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 7 Ph. + 39 02 76025913 moncler.com Moschino Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm

Via Cola di Rienzo, 8 Ph. +39 02 89075002 Ph. +39 02 89075909 antoniomarras.it North Sail Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 1.30 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm Via Durini, 27 Ph. +39 02 76317225 northsails.com P.a.r.o.s.h.

Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30pm

Via Sant’Andrea, 25 Ph. +39 02 76022639 Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Vincenzo Capelli, 1 Ph. +39 02 36687099 moschino.com 172

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Via Santo Spirito, 14 Ph. +39 02 76015801 parosh.com Pal Zileri Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Manzoni, 20 Ph. +39 02 76394680 palzileri.com Paolo Moretti Pelle e Pellicce Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Passaggio Duomo, 2 Ph. +39 02 804709 - fur.it Patrizia Pepe Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Manzoni, 38 Ph. +39 02 76014477 patriziapepe.com Paul Smith Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Manzoni, 30 Ph. +39 02 76319181 paulsmith.com Philipp Plein Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 21/A Ph. +39 02 45388329 world.philipp-plein.com Billionaire by Philipp Plein Monday 2 pm to 7.30 pm;

Tuesday to Sunday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via della Spiga, 25 Ph. +39 02 76002098 billionairecouture.com Pinko Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 26 Ph. +39 02 76014184 pinko.it Porsche Design Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 42 Ph. +39 02 798790 porsche-design.com

173

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Prada Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm

Via Monte Napoleone, 8 Ph.+39 02 7771771 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 6 Ph.+39 02 76020273 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 18 corner Via S. Andrea, 23 Ph.+39 02 780465 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 62 Ph.+39 02 87211450 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 63-65 Ph.+39 02 876979 prada.com Pupi Solari Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Piazza Tommaseo, 2 174

Ph. +39 02 463325 pupisolari.com Raffaella Curiel Monday to Friday 9 am to 7 pm, Saturday on appointment Via Monte Napoleone, 13 Ph. +39 02 76009786 raffaellacuriel.com Rick Owens Monday to Saturday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte di PietĂ , 13 Ph. +39 02 45386030 rickowens.eu Roberto Cavalli Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 6 Ph. +39 02 7630771 robertocavalli.com Just Cavalli Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7.30 pm Via Vincenzo Capelli, 4 Ph. +39 02 76280740 just.robertocavalli.com Roy Rogers Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11am to 7pm Corso Venezia, 8 Ph. +39 02 76340622 royrogers.it

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to 7.30 pm; Sunday10 am to 13 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm Piazza del Duomo Ph. +39 02 86460919 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday10 am to 13 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm Piazza del Liberty, 1 Ph. +39 02 80501933 sartoriarossi.it Serapian Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 42 Ph. +39 02 76024451 serapian.com Sermoneta Gloves Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 7.30 pm Via della Spiga, 46 Ph. +39 02 76318303 sermonetagloves.com Simonetta Ravizza Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 1 Ph. +39 02 76012921 simonettaravizza.it Siniscalchi Camicie su misura By appointment Viale Vittorio Veneto, 32 Ph. +39 02 29003365 siniscalchicamiciesumisura.com

Rubinacci Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 18 corner Via del GesÚ, 1 Ph. +39 02 76001564 marianorubinacci.net Saint Laurent Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 21 Ph. +39 02 76000573 ysl.com Salvatore Ferragamo Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm

Via Monte Napoleone, 3 Ph. +39 02 76000054 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 20/4 Ph. +39 02 76006660 ferragamo.com Sartoria A. Caraceni Monday to Friday 9 am to 12.30 pm and 3 pm to 6.30 pm Via Fatebenefratelli, 16 Ph. +39 02 6551972 caracenimilano.com Sartoria Rossi Monday to Saturday 10 am 175

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Stefano Ricci Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 3 pm to 7 pm Via Gesù, 3 Ph. +39 02 798588 stefanoricci.com Stella McCartney Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via Santo Spirito, 3 Ph.+39 02 76281222 stellamccartney.com Stone Island Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Corso Venezia, 12 Ph. +39 02 76001409 stoneisland.com Tindaro De Luca Monday to Friday 9 am to 6 pm Via Gesù, 15 Ph. +39 02 794394 Tom Ford Monday to Saturday from 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Pietro Verri, 3 Ph. +39 02 36529600 tomford.com Tory Burch Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday noon to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 7 Ph. +39 02 76319028 toryburch.it

Trussardi Monday to Sunday 10 am to 8 pm Piazza della Scala, 5 Ph. +39 02 80688242 trussardi.com Uman By appointment Via Gesù, 10 Ph. +39 02 7787741 umanconcept.com Valentino Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 7 pm

Via Monte Napoleone, 20 Ph. +39 02 76006182 valentino.com Red Valentino Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Corso Venezia, 6 Ph. +39 02 36756030 redvalentino.com Versace Monday to Sunday from 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 11 Ph. +39 02 7600 8528 Monday to Sunday from 10 am to 7 pm 176

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Ph. +39 02 76004694 wpstore.com Zadig & Voltaire Monday to Saturday from 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 33/35 Ph. +39 02 89011479 versace.com Versace Collection Monday to Sunday from 10 am to 7 pm Corso Matteotti, 10 Ph. +39 02 7601 4969 Vilebrequin Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 33 corner Via Manzoni Ph. +39 02 76340099 it.vilebrequin.com Vionnet Tuesday to Saturday from 10 am to 7 pm Corso Monforte, 16 Ph. +39 02 49682563 vionnet.com Wait and See Monday 3.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Santa Marta, 14 Ph. +39 02 72080195 waitandsee.it WP Store Monday to Sunday from 10.30 am to 7.30 pm

Via Santo Spirito, 18 Ph. +39 02 76390404 zadig-et-voltaire.com

Via Borgogna, 3 177

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Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Pietro Verri corner Piazza Meda, 3/5 Ph. +39 02 783481 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7.30 pm Piazza San Babila, 1/3 Ph. +39 02 76341368 baldinini-shop.com Ballin Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Santo Spirito, 5 Ph. +39 02 76020183 ballin-shoes.it Berluti Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 16 Ph. +39 02 77877011 berluti.com Borsalino Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 5 Ph. +39 02 76017072 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 10 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 92 Ph. +39 02 89015436 borsalino.com/it Car Shoe Monday to Saturday 10.30 am

SHOES & ACCESSORIES Alfonso Garlando Monday 12.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm Via Madonnina, 1 Ph. +39 02 874665 alfonsogarlando.it Angelo Fusco Tuesday to Saturday 11 am to 1.30 pm and 3.30 pm to 7 pm; Monday 3.30 pm to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 25 Ph. +39 02 76318933 Ash Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 7.30 pm Via Madonnina, 2 Ph. +39 02 72094198 ashitalia.it Aquazzura Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 12 Ph. +39 02 83520312 aquazzura.com Baldinini Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 25 Ph. +39 02 76280549 178

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to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 1 Ph. +39 02 76024027; carshoe.com CB Made in Italy Monday to Friday 9.30 am to 6.30 pm; Saturday 10.30 am to 7 pm Corso Garibaldi, 50 Ph. +39 02 36639181 cbmadeinitaly.com Cesare Paciotti Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 8 Ph. +39 02 76001338 cesare-paciotti.com Church’s Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 11 Ph. +39 02 76318794 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Tommaso Marino, 7 Ph. +39 02 72094454 church-footwear.com Del Carlo Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Borgospesso, 25 Ph. +39 02 782184 delcarlo.it

Devi Kroell Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 21 Ph. +39 02 36769580 devikroell.com E. Marinella Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Manzoni, 23 Ph. +39 02 89010842 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Santa Maria Alla Porta, 5 Ph. +39 02 86467036 marinellanapoli.it Fratelli Rossetti Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7pm Via Monte Napoleone, 1 Ph. +39 02 76021650 fratellirossetti.com Furla Monday to Sunday 10 am to 8.30 pm Piazza Duomo, 31 Ph. +39 02 89096794 furla.com Gallo Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Manzoni, 16 Ph. +39 02 783602 theartofgallo.it 179

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Via Monte Napoleone, 19 Ph. +39 02 78623358 italiaindependent.com Jimmy Choo Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 1/A Ph. +39 02 45481770 jimmychoo.com Longchamp Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 6 Ph. +39 02 84932705 it.longchamp.com Montblanc Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 27/B Ph. +39 02 76317720 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Corso Vercelli, 1 Ph. +39 02 48005078 montblanc.com Pellux Monday to Saturday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Piazza San Fedele, 2 Ph. +39 02 864104 pellux.it Porselli Monday 3 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 9 am to

Gianvito Rossi Monday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via Santo Spirito, 7 Ph. +39 02 76280988 gianvitorossi.com Giuseppe Zanotti Design Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 8 Ph.+ 39 02 76280759 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 22 Ph.+ 39 02 76316808 giuseppezanotti.com Gusella Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 31 Ph.+39 02 76340778 gusella.com/it Hogan Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 5 Ph. +39 02 76011174 hogan.com Italia Independent Monday to Sunday 10 pm to 7 pm 180

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12.30 pm and 3 pm to 7.30 pm Piazza Ferrari, 6 Ph. +39 02 8053759 porselli.it René Caovilla Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Bagutta, 28 Ph. +39 02 76319049 renecaovilla.com Rivolta Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 7.30 pm Via della Spiga, 17 Ph. +39 02 798751 calzoleriarivolta.com Rodo Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Corso Matteotti, 14 Ph. +39 02 84928436 rodo.it Roger Vivier Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 17 Ph. +39 02 76025614 rogervivier.com Samsonite Monday to Saturday 10 am t o 7.30 pm; Sunday 3 pm to 7.30 pm Via S. Pietro all’Orto, 11 Ph. +39 02 76020264 samsonite.it

Santoni Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 6 Ph. +39 02 76280508 santonishoes.com Sergio Rossi Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 27 Ph. +39 02 76006140 sergiorossi.com Silvano Lattanzi Monday to Saturday 11 am to 7 pm Via Gesù, 11 Ph. +39 02 76028499 silvanolattanzi.com Spelta Milano Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7.30 pm Via Solferino, 1 Ph. +39 02 86457134 speltamilano.it Stuart Weitzman Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday noon to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 10 Ph. +39 02 36537260 stuartweitzman.com

181

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Tod’s Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 1 pm to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 22 Ph. +39 02 76002423 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Ph. +39 02 877997 tods.com Tumi Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 7 pm Corso Matteotti, 7 Ph. +39 02 76004830 tumi.com Valextra Monday to Saturday from 10am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am 7 pm Via Manzoni, 3 Ph. +39 02 99786060 valextra.com

JEWELLERY Audemars Piguet Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 6 Ph. +39 02 76003115 audemarspiguet.com Bernardini Monday 3.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 1.30 pm and 3.30 pm to 7.30 pm Via Caradosso, 2 Ph. +39 02 4818697 bernardinimilano.com Breguet Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 19 Ph. +39 02 76007756 breguet.com Buccellati Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 23 Ph. +39 02 76002154 buccellati.com Bulgari Monday and Sunday 11 am to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 2 Ph. +39 02 777001 bulgari.com 182

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Cartier Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 16/A Ph. +39 02 3030421 cartier.it Chantecler Capri Monday 2.30 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7 pm Via Santo Spirito, 5 Ph. +39 02 37011903 chantecler.it Chopard Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 14 Ph. +39 02 76394950 chopard.it Damiani Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7pm; Sunday 11am to 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 7pm Via Monte Napoleone, 10 Ph. +39 02 76028088 damiani.com Dodo Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Monday and Sunday 11 am to 7.30 pm Corso Matteotti, 9 Ph. +39 02 49524750 dodo.it

Franck Muller Monday 3 pm to 7 pm;Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 19 Ph. +39 02 76318572 franckmuller.com Jaeger - LeCoultre Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11.30 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 1 Ph. +39 02 76281376 jaeger-lecoultre.com Officine Panerai Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11.30 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 1 Ph.+ 39 02 36000008 panerai.com Omega Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 9 Ph. +39 02 76000984 omegawatches.com Pellini Monday 2.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Manzoni, 20 Ph. +39 02 76008084 pellini.it

183

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Ph. +39 02 76317726 rolex.com Sabbadini Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday from 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 8 Ph. +39 02 76002978 sabbadini.com Tiffany & Co Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via della Spiga, 19/A Ph. +39 02 76022321 Monday to Sunday 10 am to 8 pm Piazza del Duomo corner Via Ugo Foscolo Ph. +39 02 89094202 tiffany.it Van Cleef & Arpels Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 10 Ph. +39 02 7767951 vancleefarpels.com Vhernier Monday to Saturday from 10.30 am to 7 pm; Sunday 13.30 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 21 Ph. +39 02 77331560 vhernier.it Villa Milano Monday 3pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Manzoni, 23 Ph. +39 02 804279 - villa.it

Piaget Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Pietro Verri, 10 Ph. +39 02 32164701 piaget.com Pisa Orologeria Flagship Store Monday 10.30 am to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Pietro Verri, 7 Ph. +39 02 762081 pisaorologeria.com Pomellato Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via S. Pietro all’Orto, 17 Ph. +39 02 76006086 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm, Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 17 Ph. +39 02 76014530 pomellato.com Richard Mille Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Della Spiga, 17 Ph.+39 02 87221275 richardmille.com Rolex Boutique Pisa Orologeria Monday 10.30 am to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 24 184

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Bellora Monday and Tuesday 10 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm; Wednesday and Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via Manzoni, 43 Ph. +39 02 6596361 bellora1883.com Bialetti Monday to Sunday 10 am to 8 pm Piazza Duomo, 17 Ph. +39 02 23369408 bialetti.it Boffi Monday 10 am to 6 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Solferino, 11 Ph. +39 02 879099100 boffi-solferino.com Bose Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via S. Pietro all’Orto, 7 Ph. +39 02 76280535 bose.it Bottega Veneta Home Monday to Saturday 10 am to 19 pm Via Borgospesso, 5 Ph. +39 02 76009934 bottegaveneta.com

DESIGN, HOME & HI-TECH Alessi Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Manzoni, 14/16 Ph. +39 02 795726 alessi.com Apple Store Milano Monday to Sunday 10 am to 9 pm Piazza del Liberty, 1 Ph. +39 02 30302400 apple.com Armani Casa Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Corso Venezia, 14 Ph. +39 02 7626 0230 armanicasa.com Artemide Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Corso Monforte, 19 Ph. +39 02 76006930 artemide.com B&B Italia Store Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Durini, 14 Ph. +39 02 764441 bebitalia.com Barovier&Toso Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Durini, 5 Ph. +39 02 76000906 barovier.com 185

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Ph. +39 02 48011803 dimorae.it Driade Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Borgogna, 8 Ph. +39 02 799957 driade.com Flos Monday 3 am to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Corso Monforte, 9 Ph. +39 02 37011080 flos.com Fornasetti Tuesday to Friday 2 pm to 7 pm; Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Corso Matteotti, 1/A Ph. +39 02 89658040 Monday 3 am to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Corso Venezia, 21/A corner Via Senato Ph. +39 02 84 16 13 74 fornasetti.com Frette Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 6 pm Via Manzoni, 11 Ph. +39 02 864433 frette.com Huawei Experience Store Monday to Sunday 9 am to 9 pm CityLife Shopping District Galleria

Cargo Milano - HighTech Monday 1.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Piazza XXV Aprile, 12 Ph: +39 02 6241101 cargomilano.it Cassina Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Durini, 16 Ph. +39 02 76020745 cassina.com Christofle Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Corso Venezia, 6 Ph. +39 02 781948 eu.christofle.com De Padova Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Santa Cecilia, 7 Ph. +39 02 777201 depadova.com Democracy Design Monday to Sunday 9 am to 9 pm CityLife Shopping District Galleria Castelli Ferrieri 1N13 - 1N16 Piazza 3 Torri, 1/L Ph. +39 02 437107 democracydesign.it Dimorae Monday to Friday 10 am to 6 pm Via A. Dugnani, 4 186

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Sunday 11.30 am to 7.30 pm Piazza San Marco, 3 corner via Pontaccio Ph. +39 02 8901 1646 richardginori1735.com Rossana Orlandi Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Matteo Bandello, 14/16 Ph. +39 02 4674471 rossanaorlandi.com Sahrai Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Manzoni, 45 Ph. +39 02 8690570 sahrai.com Sawaya & Moroni Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 7.30 pm Via Manzoni, 11 Ph. +39 02 86395200 sawayamoroni.com Society Limonta Monday 3 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7 pm Via Palermo, 1 Ph. +39 02 72080453 societylimonta.com Tearose Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Piazzetta Croce Rossa, 2 Ph. +39 02 86998767 tearose.it

Castelli Ferrieri, 2N18 - 2N21 Piazza 3 Torri

Ph. +39 02 481 6683 huaweiexperiencestore.com Kartell Monday 3 am to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Carlo Porta n.1 corner Via Filippo Turati Ph. +39 02 6597916 kartell.com Laminam Milan Showroom Monday to Friday 9.30 am to 1 pm and 2.30 pm to 6.30 pm Via Verdi, 5 Please schedule an appointment: Ph. + 39 02 89092496 laminam.it Leica store Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Giuseppe Mengoni, 4 Ph. +39 02 89095156 leicastore-milano.com Poliform Monday 3 pm to 7 pm;Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm Piazza Cavour, 2 Ph. +39 02 76318619 poliform.it Richard Ginori Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; 187

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Valli Tessuti Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7pm Via Verdi, 2 Ph. +39 02 76001986 vallitessuti.com Venini Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 10 Ph. +39 02 76000539 venini.com Versace Home Monday to Friday 10 am to 7 pm; Saturday 10 am to 6 pm Via Borgospesso 15/a Ph. +39 02 00620849 versacehome.it Vetrerie di Empoli Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 22 Ph. +39 02 76008791 vetreriediempoli.it

BEAUTY Acqua di Parma Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via GesĂš, 1 corner Via Monte Napoleone Ph. +39 02 76023307 acquadiparma.com Aesop Brera Monday 12.30 am to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Piazza del Carmine, 1 Ph. +39 02 89095356 Aesop Magenta Monday 12.30 am to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Meravigli, 18 Ph. +39 02 89011560 aesop.com British Box Monday 3 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 1 pm and 2.30 pm to 7.30 pm Via Melzo, 34 Ph. +39 02 29517575 britishbox.it Campomarzio 70 Monday noon to 8 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm Via Brera 2/A 188

SHOPPING

Ph. +39 02 72095164 campomarzio70.it Chanel Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7.30 pm Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 14 Ph. +39 02 29089581 chanel.com Culti Milano Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 2 pm; 3 pm to 7.30 pm Corso Venezia, 53 Ph. +39 02 83986600 Tuesday to Sunday 10.30 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7.30pm Via Fiori Chiari, 6 Ph. +39 02 36553875 culti.com Dr. Vranjes Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Fiori Chiari, 24 Ph. +39 02 89010492 drvranjes.com Editions de Parfums FrĂŠdĂŠric Malle Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Pietro Verri, 2 Ph. +39 02 76012071 fredericmalle.com Etro Fragrances Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 1.30 pm

and 2.30 pm to 7 pm Via Pietro Verri corner Via Bigli, 2 Ph. +39 02 76005450 etro.com Jo Malone Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 3 pm to 7.30 pm Via Manzoni, 18 Ph. +39 02 76341313 jomalone.com Officina Profumo Farmaceutica Santa Maria Novella Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via Madonnina, 11 Ph. +39 02 36519630 smnovella.it Profumerie Mazzolari Monday to Saturday 9 am to 7.30 pm Piazzetta Umberto Giordano, 4 Ph. +39 02 76000063 mazzolari.info Profumo Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Brera, 6 Ph. +39 02 72023334 profumomilano.com

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Libreria Bocca Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 12 Ph. +39 02 86462321 Ph. +39 02 860806 libreriabocca.com Libreria dell’automobile Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 1 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm Corso Venezia, 45 Ph. +39 02 76006624 libreriadellautomobile.it Libreria dello Sport Monday 3 pm to 7 pm;Tuesday to Friday 10 am to 1.30 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm; Saturday 10 am to 12.30 am and 3.30 pm to 7 pm Via Carducci, 9 Ph. +39 02 8055355 libreriadellosport.it Libreria Internazionale Ulrico Hoepli Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via Ulrico Hoepli, 5 Ph. +39 02 864871 hoepli.it Libreria Rizzoli Galleria Monday to Saturday 9 am to 8 pm; Thursday 9 am to 10 pm; Sunday 10 am to 8 pm

BOOKSHOP Armani Libri Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Manzoni, 31 corner Via Pisoni Ph. +39 02 72318675 buchhandlung-walther-koenig.de Corso Como Bookshop Friday to Tuesday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm, Wednesday and Thursday 10.30 am to 9 pm Corso Como, 10 Ph. +39 02 654831 10corsocomo.com Feltrinelli Duomo Monday to Thursday 9.30 am to 9.30 pm; Friday and Saturday 9.30 am to 10 pm; Sunday 10 am to 8 pm Piazza Duomo angolo Via Ugo Foscolo, 1/3Â Ph. +39 199 151173 lafeltrinelli.it Gogol & Company Monday to Sunday 9 am to 10 pm Via Savona, 101 Ph. +39 02 45470449 gogolandcompany.com 190

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Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 79 Ph. +39 02 86461071 rizzoligalleria.it Mondadori Monday to Sunday 9 am to 11 pm Piazza Duomo, 1 Ph. +39 02 45441113 mondadoristore.it Red - Feltrinelli Monday to Thursday 7.30 am to 11pm; Friday 7.30 am to midnight; Saturday 10 am to midnight; Sunday 10 am to 11pm Piazza Gae Aulenti, 1 Ph. +39 199 151 173 lafeltrinelli.it Taschen Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Meravigli, 17 Ph. +39 02 84345013 taschen.com The American Bookstore Monday 1.30 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7 pm Via Camperio, 16 Ph. +39 02 878920 americanbookstore.it Triennale Bookstore Tuesday to Sunday 10.30 am to 8.30 pm Viale Emilio Alemagna, 6 Ph. +39 02 89012117 triennale.org 191

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OUR CHEF’S FAVOURITES

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chosen by the chef and based on the diner’s preferences.

Monday and to Saturday 7.00 pm to midnight; Sunday 12.30 pm to 3.30 pm Via Giuseppe Meda, 2 ph. +39 02 49536597 contrastemilano.it

FINE DINING Berton Chef Andrea Berton was one of the first to open his restaurant in the revamped Porta Nuova neighbourhood. This open and highly contemporary space is bathed in natural light and lends perfectly to Berton’s original, bold cuisine. His food is creative, his recipes simple, whilst always personal and well-thought-out.

Tuesday to Friday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 10.30 pm Monday and Saturday 7.30 pm to 10.30 pm Via Mike Bongiorno, 13 Ph. +39 02 67075801 ristoranteberton.com

Cracco Carlo Cracco’s eponymous restaurant has up and moved into Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Here, the popular, starred chef showcases his best dishes, like “pigeon in coffee crust” and “potatoes filled with mascarpone, almonds and vanilla”. Diners will enjoy the cellar, boasting more than 1,000 labels, and the impeccable service.

Monday to Friday 12.30 pm to 2 pm and 7.15 pm to 10 pm; Saturday 7.15 pm to 10 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Ph.+39 02 876774 ristorantecracco.it

Contraste Inaugurated in 2015 in an early 19th-century villa, this restaurant by Uruguayan chef Matias Perdomo, Argentine sous-chef Simon Press and Italian maître Thomas Piras is experimental, with carefully-calculated dishes presented in three ways: an á la carte menu, a six-course tasting menu and a “reflection” menu, with 10 tastings 193

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Saturday open for dinner Via privata Montecuccoli, 6 Ph. +39 02 416886 aimoenadia.com Vòce - Aimo e Nadia (at Gallerie d’Italia) Monday to Saturday 11.30 am to 3 pm and 7 pm to 11 pm.

Piazza della Scala, 6 Ph. +39 02 40701935 voceaimoenadia.com

Enrico Bartolini - Mudec Chef Enrico Bartolini brings his contemporary classic cuisine to the third-floor restaurant at Milan’s Museum of Cultures. Alongside great classics like “beetroot and gorgonzola risotto” and “bottoni filled with oil and lime,” guests can also find tasting menus and daily specials that pay tribute to Italian culinary traditions.

Tuesday to Saturday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 10.30 pm Monday open for dinner Via Tortona, 56 Ph. +39 02 84293701 enricobartolini.net

Joia The sophisticated vegetarian restaurant Joia has been managed by chef Pietro Leemann for almost 30 years, and his philosophy of natural haute cuisine are the reasons for this success.

Cult dishes include “panzanella with crunchy vegetables, cannellini beans and wasabi on a bed of saffron” and “raspberries, strawberries and tomatoes with balsamic vinegar and green pepper”. The influence of the chef’s Eastern travels is tangible.

Monday to Saturday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 11 pm Via Castaldi, 18 Ph. +39 02 2049244 joia.it

Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia This two-timed Michelan-starred restaurant is a culinary journey through Italy. Opened in the 1960s by Aimo and Nadia, it’s now run by chefs Fabio Pisani and Alessandro Negrini. Old favourites like “spaghetti with green onions” are still on the menu, as are reworked dishes such as “mountain veal carpaccio infused with ginger, anchovy sauce and turnip green jus”.

Monday to Friday 12.30 pm to 2 pm and 7.30 pm to 10.30 pm 194

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olona and almond crust”. In the same location, check out the more informal Bulk, a mixology bar and bistro with a garden.

Restaurant: Monday to Saturday 7.30 to 11 pm Bulk: Sunday to Thursday 11 to 1 am; Friday and Saturdays 11 to 2 am Via Aristotile Fioravanti, 4 Ph. +39 02 80010918 morellimilano.it

Lume Opened in 2016, Lume has swiftly become one of the city’s most respected restaurants thanks to its elegant location in a former Richard Ginori factory and chef Luigi Taglienti’s talented cuisine. The restaurant vaunts two tasting menus, as well as an à la carte menu: one is more traditional, influenced by Milanese traditions, while the other tends more towards the experimental.

Lume also offers a reserve a private room for 12 people.

Tuesday to Saturday noon to 2 pm and 7.30 pm to 10 pm; Sunday noon to 2 pm Via Giacomo Watt, 37 Ph. +39 02 80888624 lumemilano.com

Sadler Internationally-renowned chef Claudio Sadler has a decisive objective every time he crafts a dish: it must be delicious, attractive, modern and light.

“Modern, ever-evolving cuisine” is how he likes to define his fish-focused cooking. Signature dishes include “pan fried crustaceans, charcoal-fired violet artichokes and tarragon foam”. An intimate, private dining room for two is available.

Monday to Saturday 7.30 to 11pm Via Cardinale Ascanio Sforza, 77 Ph. +39 02 58104451 sadler.it

Ristorante Morelli A sophisticated ambiance and stylish furnishings characterize the new Giancarlo Morelli restaurant. The chef’s table is a unique experience, available upon reservation, where surprise menus are served: musttaste dishes include “Scallops, celeriac with parsley and Volzhenka caviar” and “Persimmon soup, elderflower gelato, sbris195

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to 2.15 pm and 7.30 pm to 10.15 pm Via Andegari, 9 Ph. +39 02 87318897 mandarinoriental.com

Seta by Antonio Guida Opened in 2015, Seta immediately excelled to the heights of haute cuisine. Widespread recognition came quickly, thanks to its management by one of Italy’s most acclaimed chefs, Antonio Guida, who won his second Michelin star in less than three years. The menu embraces sea and land, north and south (notably Puglia, the chef’s homeland), and exotic influences in an array of dishes in which the quality of ingredients and the immediacy of their flavours reign supreme.

The restaurant’s floor-to-ceiling windows look out onto the hotel courtyard, achieving a striking continuum between the inner and outer spaces. Even the kitchen looks out onto the tables, allowing guests to see the chef at work, who, alongside executive sous-chef Federico Dell’Omarino, pastry chef Nicola Di Lena and his entire team, puts his spin on Italian cuisine, like “Cagnone-style rice with vegetables, maccagno cheese and raspberry dust,” one Guida’s dishes dedicated to Milan.

Monday to Saturday 12.30 pm

Sikélaia A refined slice of Sicily a stone’s throw from the Indro Montanelli Gardens, fish is front and centre here, although meat-based dishes are also available. Chef Federico La Paglia offers traditional Sicilian cooking, full in flavour though reworked in a lighter and more gourmet interpretation. Mouth-watering options include “sliced amberjack with bitter orange sauce” and “Sicilian broccoli ravioli with mussels and clams”.

Tuesday to Saturday noon to 2.30 pm and 7 pm to 10.30 pm Via Marco Polo, 10 Ph. +39 02 29014556 ristorantesikelaia.it Tano Passami l’Olio A far cry from the busy atmosphere of the Navigli, this restaurant by the starred chef Gaetano Simonato offers classic dining rooms with an elegant feel. Only open for dinner, 196

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sophisticated food is presented with elegant simplicity where the culinary creed of the chef is expressed through unusual combinations and refined presentations. It begins with a taste of forty different types of extra virgin olive oil and bread and continues with specialties including Casoela, Risotto alla Milanese and Ossobuco.

Monday to Saturday 8 pm to 11.30 pm Via Eugenio Villoresi, 18 corner via Pastorelli Ph. +39 02 8394139 tanopassamilolio.it

ghetti cacao and pepe with sea urchins” and “Milanese-style risotto with veal sweetbreads”.

Monday to Friday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 8 pm to 10.30 pm Saturday open for dinner Piazza della Scala, 5 Ph. +39 02 80688201 trussardiallascala.com Vun A refined culinary experience by double Michelin-starred chef Andrea Aprea, a true Neapolitan. His dishes echo his home city’s traditions, while blending with nuances from all over Italy. The name VUN means “one” in the Milanese dialect, which Aprea chose as a celebration of both local tradition and his regard for high quality. Make sure to try the “sweet and salty caprese” or “Riserva Carnaroli rice with scampi, lemon, rosemary and capers”. Private room for 10 people is available.

Tuesday to Saturday 7 pm to 10.30 pm Via Silvio Pellico, 3 Ph. +39 02 88211234 ristorante-vun.it

Trussardi alla Scala A brand extension of the wellknown Milanese fashion house Trussardi, this is one of the most alluring restaurants in the city thanks to its elegant ambience and a striking view of Teatro alla Scala and via Manzoni (ask for a table with a view!). In the kitchen is Roberto Conti, one of Milan’s liveliest chefs. The restaurant plumbs for the finest ingredients in special editions for its “greyhound” brand, such as extra-virgin olive oil and caviar.

Star dishes are always “Spa197

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A TASTE OF THE WORLD

Ph. +39 02 4693206 ba-restaurant.com

Armani Nobu One of the world’s best chefs, Nobuyuki Matsuhisa reinvents Japanese cooking with South American and Peruvian influences. The restaurant blends the elegance of Giorgio Armani with essential oriental design. Specialities include “black cod with miso” and “tempura prawns”.

Monday to Saturday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 11.00 pm open Sunday for dinner Via Pisoni,1 Ph. +39 02 72318645 armanirestaurants.com

Björk This multi-faceted locale is both a Swedish deli and a Scandinavian brasserie, where the ingredients of Swedish cooking, like elk, reindeer, herring and salmon, reign supreme. Highlights include “marinated salmon with gravadlax sauce and boiled mignon potatoes” and “mackerel baked with new potatoes, mustard and green apples”.

Tuesday to Saturday noon to 2.30 pm and 7 pm to 11 pm; Monday open for dinner; Sunday noon to 3.30 pm Via Castaldi, 20 Ph. +39 02 49457424 bjork.it

Ba - Asian Mood Here, traditional Chinese cuisine vaunts a modern reinterpretation blended with typical Italian ingredients and flavours. The menu includes a wide variety of dim sum, little bites typical of Southern China, such as “braised pork ravioli,” and more experimental dishes like “green tea spaghetti with salmon and bottarga”.

Tuesday to Sunday noon to 2.45 pm and 7.30 pm to 11.45 pm out Via Raffaello Sanzio, 22

Canteen Mexican cuisine with a touch of American influence, music and cocktails can all be found at the new Mexican kitchen and tequila bar. This spectacular restaurant is perfect for the fashion-loving, sophisticated set.

From Monday to Sunday 6 pm to 3 am Via Archimede, 10 198

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Ph. +39 02 5463732 lucaguelficompany.com

El Carnicero The ambience is reminiscent of a traditional Argentinian fazenda, but the meat is North American, Irish, German and Japanese too. All cuts, including the succulent entraña, are grilled to perfection. In one of the three dining rooms arranged around a patio, there’s a corner dedicated to slicing pata negra ham.

Monday to Sunday 7.30 pm to midnight Via Spartaco, 31 Ph. +39 02 54019816 elcarnicero.com

Cittamani A modern minimalistic restaurant with an elegant touch of India. Acclaimed chef Ritu Dalmia returns to Italy after a stay in New Delhi, bringing flavours of the Indian subcontinent to Milan.

Monday to Sunday noon to 3 pm and 7 pm to midnight Piazza Mirabello, 5 Ph. +39 02 38240935 cittamani.com Dim Sum Opened by Chiara Wang Pei and Yike Weng, this chic Chinese restaurant is highly recommended. It’s an ode to the elegance of Chinese cuisine, served here with a fine glass of champagne or a more traditional cup of tea. Among the new dishes, guests will enjoy “Jiaozi with quail egg and Chinese taro wrapped in algae”.

Tuesday to Sunday noon to 2.30 pm and 7 pm to 11.30 pm Via Bixio, 29 corner Via Pisacane Ph. +39 02 29522821 dimsummilano.it

El Porteño Serving up Argentinian specialities within walking distance of Parco Sempione, this restaurant offers barbecued meats alongside other traditional dishes like “empanadas,” “chicken escabeche” and, for dessert, “dulce de leche”.

Monday to Sunday 7.30 pm to midnight Viale Elvezia, 4 Ph. +39 02 34537275 elporteno.it

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Pacifico A forerunner of Peruvian food culture in Italy, chef Jaime Pesaque has gone one step further, specializing in Peruvian and Asian fusion, aka Nikkei. The restaurant serves mostly fish dishes, although some meat options are available. A word to the wise: Pesaque’s “ceviche” is world-famous.

Monday to Sunday 12.30 to 3 pm and 7.30 to 11:30 pm Via San Marco corner of Via Moscova Ph. +39 02 87244737 wearepacifico.it Saigon Inlaid oak flooring, tropical plants and Viennese cane stools, this restaurant vaunts a perfect colonial style, where you can enjoy slightly reinterpreted, but still authentic, Vietnamese food.

Try the “bo luc lac,” wok-sautéed beef fillet with oyster sauce and vegetables, or “shao tom,” prawn skewers with cane sugar and served with a plum sauce.

Monday to Saturday 6 pm to 2 am Via Archimede, 53 Ph. +39 02 70101966 lucaguelficompany.com

Finger’s Garden A fashionable restaurant with a beautiful Far East-style garden, chef and owner Roberto Okabe moves with ease between raw fish dishes, like the superb mixed sashimi, and original fusion creations that are sometimes added with a Brazilian touch.

Monday to Saturday 8 pm to midnight Via Keplero, 2 Ph. +39 02 606544 fingersrestaurants.com Iyo Behind thus elegant sushi bar and restaurant are chefs Michele Biassoni and Masaki Okada.

Starting with Japanese classics, the dishes evolve into creative, westernized interpretations like “Kakisu”: Normandy oysters, oyster jelly and kombu, daikon granita with rice vinegar and yuzu, algae and oyster leaves.

Wednesday to Sunday 12.15 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 11.30 pm; Tuesday open for dinner Via Piero della Francesca, 74 Ph. +39 02 45476898 iyo.it

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Sakeya The unique cuisine by chef Masaki Inoguchi, from obanzai to platters, offers a menu designed to be paired with sake: 150 labels coming from 47 regions in Japan.

Tuesday to Sunday 7 pm to 1 am Via Cesare da Sesto, 1 Ph. +39 02 94387836 sakeya.it

ing with Balkan and Mediterranean influences. Vasiliki’s own “octopus in honey” is excellent.

The street number matches the building opposite the restaurant, but you can’t miss it.

Monday to Friday 7 pm to midnight; Saturday and Sunday 12.30 pm to 15.30 pm and 7 pm to midnight Via Clusone, 6 Ph. +39 02 94381405 vasilikikouzina.com

Tokuyoshi Italian tradition and Japanese technique are the cornerstones of the innovative cuisine by Yoji Tokuyoshi, the chef and owner of this Michelin-starred restaurant, where he crafts modern and original dishes.

Tuesday to Saturday 7 pm to 10.30 pm; Sunday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7 pm to 10.30 pm (closed in July and August 2018) Via San Calocero, 3 Ph. +39 02 84254626 ristorantetokuyoshi.com

Wicky’s The domain of chef and owner Wicky Priyan, the pairings and sauces here are impeccable. Traditional sushi goes hand-in-hand with the flavourful versions of the cornerstones of Asian cuisine.

Tuesday to Friday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 10.30 pm; Monday and Saturday open for dinner Corso Italia, 6 Ph. +39 02 89093781 wicuisine.it

Vasiliki Kouzina It’s a dream come true for Vasiliki, Greek by birth, Milanese by adoption. Pompeii red walls, brass tables and counters, green velvet couches, glasses and a menu inspired by traditional Greek cook201

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TRADITIONAL MILANESE COOKING AND TRATTORIAS

entrance on Via L. Solera Mantegazza Ph. +39 02 654204

Al Coniglio Bianco With an outdoor seating area overlooking the Naviglio Grande, this is a place for all those seeking true Milanese fare. Seafood dishes are on offer alongside traditional dishes, like “ossobuco with saffron risotto,” while only the finest and freshest ingredients are used.

Monday to Friday 7 pm to 11 pm Saturday and Sunday 12.30 pm to 3 pm Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 12 Ph. +39 02 58100910 alconigliobianco.it

Antica Osteria Cavallini The menu offers the best of tradition alongside sought-after fish dishes. Together with “risotto alla Milanese” guests will find “risotto with prawns and Tuscan kale sauce,” while the main courses include “veal cutlet” and “squid with radicchio”. The large, covered garden is lovely.

Monday to Friday noon to 3 pm and 7 pm to midnight; Saturday open for dinner Via Mauro Macchi, 2 Ph. +39 02 6693174 anticaosteriacavallini.it

Al Matarel Close to the Brera, this restaurant offers traditional Lombard recipes, like the particularly memorable “ossobuco”.

During the winter months, locals love to enjoy the restaurant’s cozy rooms.

Monday to Sunday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 10.30 pm; closed on Tuesday and Wednesday at lunch Corso Garibaldi, 75

Antica Trattoria della Pesa This historic pantheon of Milanese and Lombard cooking offers dishes like risotto al salto, ossobuco, cazzoeula and many other local specialties, including typical desserts like hot zabaglione. Established in 1880, it’s one of the oldest restaurants in Milan and still preserves that simple yet refined ambience of the past.

Monday to Saturday 12.30 to 2.30 pm and 7.30 to 11 pm 202

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Viale Pasubio, 10 Ph. +39 02 6555741 anticatrattoriadellapesa.com Da Giacomo The ambience is reminiscent of an early 20th-century Milanese trattoria, while the restaurant is famous for its outstanding fish-based cuisine, from tuna to scampi, spider crab to bream. To sink your teeth into some meat, the answer is next door: Giacomo Bistrot. A third location by the same family is Giacomo Arengario, housed in the Museo del Novecento.

Monday to Sunday 12.30 to 2.30 pm and 7 pm to midnight Via Pasquale Sottocorno, 6 corner via Cellini, 30 Ph. +39 02 76023313 giacomoristorante.com Giacomo Bistrot Monday to Friday noon to 3 pm, 7 pm to midnight; Saturday and Sunday noon to midnight Via Pasquale Sottocorno, 6 Ph. +39 02 76022653 giacomobistrot.com Giacomo Arengario (at Museo del Novecento) Monday to Sunday noon to midnight Via Guglielmo Marconi, 1

Ph. +39 02 72093814 giacomoarengario.com La Briciola Gianni and his wife, Stefania, opened this warm and welcoming restaurant with a menu celebrating Italian and Mediterranean cuisine with a few international flourishes. For an appetizer, try a delicious “pizzetta with buffalo milk stracciatella” or the “avocado in vinaigrette”.

Tuesday to Saturday 12.45 to 2 pm, 7.45 to 11 pm; Monday open for dinner Via Marsala, 2 corner of via Solferino, 25 Ph. +39 02 6551012 / 02 6551105 / 02 653699 labriciola.com Penelope a casa A warm atmosphere adorned by a myriad of sparking lights. The menu highlights the traditions of Abruzzo, but every recipe is reinterpreted in an innovative and modern way.

Monday 7 pm to 1 am; Tuesday to Sunday 12.30 am to 3 pm and 7 pm to 1 am out Via Giuseppe Ripamonti, 3 Ph. +39 389 6067372 penelopeacasa.it 203

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all: this is a restaurant for fish lovers. The “Catalan-style lobster” is perfect for connoisseurs and the mullet bottarga dishes are exquisite.

Monday to Saturday 12.30 to 2.30 pm, 8 to 11 pm Via Atto Vannucci, 5 Ph. +39 02 58320452 trattoriadelpescatore.it

Ratanà Traditional Milanese and Lombard dishes reinterpreted with inspiration and creativity by chef Cesare Battisti. In line with local custom, the menu is mostly meat based with the exception of freshwater fish. During the warmer months, locals enjoy the restaurant’s lovely garden.

Monday to Sunday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 11 pm Via Gaetano de Castillia, 28 Ph. +39 02 87128855 ratana.it

Trippa A true Italian trattoria serving stews and offal dishes (liver, lungs, tripe, etc.) reinterpreted for gourmands, Trippa’s guests can try dishes like the “vitello tonnato,” generally considered to be the best in Milan, “Fassona beef tartare with hazelnuts” and “grilled marrow”.

Monday to Saturday 7.30 pm to 11.30 pm Via Vasari, 3 corner Via Muratori Ph. +39 327 6687908 trippamilano.it

Ristorante Solferino A bastion of traditional Milanese cooking, Solferino offers an excellent seasonal menu where typical dishes are exalted in all their glory.

Monday to Sunday noon to 2.30 pm and 7 pm to 11.30 pm Via Castelfidardo, 2 corner Via Solferino Ph. +39 02 29005748 ilsolferino.com Trattoria del Pescatore If the name weren’t enough, the boat “anchored” to the entrance displaying the day’s catch says it 204

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cio e pepe, lime and bottarga”.

Monday to Sunday 12.30 pm to 3 pm and 7.30 pm to 11 pm Via Ceresio, 7 Ph. +39 02 31039221 ceresio7.com

CONTEMPORARY CUISINE Bullona The Art Nouveau station in Milan, built in 1929 and in disuse for several years, was renovated and transformed into an exclusive restaurant. Grandiose and extremely lively, with around 150 covers, Bullona’s menu is entirely fish-based, be it raw or cooked, including trays of shellfish at the counter and succulent dishes like “pacchero with seafood ragù,” and “spaghetti with caviar”. A valet is available for those who want to avoid looking for a parking space.

Monday to Saturday 7 pm to 3 am Via Piero della Francesca, 64 Ph. +39 02 33607600 bullona.com

Filippo La Mantia Resplendent and spread across two levels, the restaurant also boasts a bistro and a bakery.

The cuisine by La Mantia is wholly reminiscent of Palermo: the menu ranges from arancini and eggplant caponata to couscous and pasta alla norma, not to mention a few ricotta cannoli!

Tuesday to Friday 8 am to 3.30 pm and 6.30 pm to midnight; Saturday 9 am to 3.30 pm and 6.30 pm to midnight; Sunday 9 am to 3 pm Piazza Risorgimento corner Via Poerio 2/A Ph. +39 02 70005309 filippolamantia.com

Ceresio 7 On the top floor of the former Enel building, the restaurant boasts breath-taking views over Milan.

The restaurant is popular thanks to its pools and lunch served on the terrace, while at dinner, Italian classics are reinterpreted with a modern touch by chef Elio Sironi and include “spaghetti ca205

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Garage Italia This former gas station was refurbished by architect Michele de Lucchi, offering a vintage ‘50s style throughout the two-floor, 1,700-square-metre space. On the upper floor, the restaurant and bar supervised by the chef Carlo Cracco serve Italian favourites with a twist.

Monday to Thursday 8 am to midnight; Saturday 8 am to 2 am; Sunday 8 am to midnight out Viale Certosa, 86 Ph. +39 02 22220307 garageitaliamilano.it

Langosteria Cafè Milano Just behind the cathedral, this elegant and contemporary space with retro accents is a cult favourites in Milan for fish gourmands. At the entrance, a raw fish counter welcomes guests like a declaration of intent. Oysters, seafood and dishes like “linguine with clams, baby squid and bottarga” and “tagliatelle with raw and cooked scampi” can all be found on the menu.

Monday to Saturday noon to 4 pm, 7 pm to midnight Galleria del Corso, 4 Ph. + 39 02 76018167 Langosteria Monday to Saturday 7 pm to midnight Via Savona, 10 Ph. +39 02 58111649 Langosteria Bistrot Tuesday to Sunday noon to 3 pm, 7 pm to midnight Via privata Bobbio, 2 Ph. +39 02 58107802 langosteria.com

L’Alchimia Viale Premuda This isn’t a bistro, nor is it a food restaurant. “L’Alchimia is a restaurant with comforting cuisine,” as its young chef Davide Puleio says. The space is dedicated to all those who enjoy a good glass of wine, with a brick barrel-vaulted cellar home to 500 select labels and used for tastings.

Monday to Sunday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 10.30 pm Viale Premuda, 34 Ph. +39 02 82870704 ristorantelalchimia.com

Locanda Perbellini Bistrot Chef Giancarlo Perbellini (boasting two Michelin stars for his restaurant in Verona) opened a bistro in Milan with an informal 206

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Spazio Milano On the top floor of Il Mercato del Duomo, Spazio Milano is a laboratory and a restaurant, a hotbed where up-and-coming chefs at Niko Romito’s school try their hand at creative and refined cuisine.

Monday to Sunday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 10 pm c/o Il Mercato del Duomo (3rd floor), Piazza Duomo corner Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Ph. +39 02 878400 nikoromitoformazione.it ilmercatodelduomo.it

ambience and menu: eggplant parmesan, “vitello tonnato with siphoned sauce,” and an ultra-light onion foam with tomato bread. A good value for money.

Monday to Thursday 12.30 am to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 10.30 pm. Friday and Saturday 12.30 am to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 11.00 pm Via Moscova, 25 Ph. +39 02 36631450 locandaperbellini.it Pisacco In the heart of Brera, this restaurant is of the most beloved places on the city’s restaurant scene. Offering a focus on modern Italian cuisine with dishes like “risotto alla milanese with veal ragù” and “Roman artichokes with crispy bread and liquorice,” Chef Andrea Berton is the man behind Andrea Asoli’s menu. Something to note: the house hamburger is incredible!

Tuesday to Sunday noon to 3.30 pm and 7 pm to 11 pm Via Solferino, 48 Ph. +39 02 91765472 pisacco.it

Terrazza Calabritto The seafood side of Neapolitan cuisine reigns supreme here: crunchy fried seafood and various dishes, like “seafood paccheri”. The dessert menu boasts the ultimate delicacy: coda di aragosta pastries.

Monday to Saturday 12.30 am to 3 pm and 7.30 pm to midnight Viale Monte Grappa, 7 Ph. +39 02 63793923 terrazzacalabritto.it

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Bomba The new take away by Michelin-starred chef Niko Romito gets its name from the family’s signature ball of risen, fried dough, long vaunted through a continuous development kneading, leavening and frying techniques. The stuffed bomba is worth a try, available in sweet, savoury or gourmet versions.

Monday to Sunday 9 am to 11.30 pm Piazza XXV Aprile, 12 Ph. +39 02 6598021 nikoromito.com Macelleria Popolare Butcher, bàcaro and deli, all at once, where exclusively organic and free range meat is prepared each day. This is the project by Giuseppe Zen, lover of organic and biodynamic products, the brain behind Mangiari di Strada.There is also a kitchen that makes dishes to order, using the meat on sale. The menu here covers popular Italian cuisine from North to South, cheese and cold cuts of all types, just picked vegetables and handrolled pasta. Street food that

STREET FOOD Al Mercato This burger bar offers hamburgers fit for gourmets and delicious sandwiches. Chef Eugenio Roncoroni runs the kitchen, while the wine list and restaurant are managed by Giacomo Gironi. Try the “superdupermegaburger,” but be patient: there are only 15 seats and they don’t accept reservations.

Tuesday to Sunday 12.30 pm to 3 pm and 7.30 pm to 11 pm Via Sant’Eufemia, 16 Ph. +39 02 87237167 al-mercato.it Bar Quadronno Locals and out-of-towners love to visit this historic location opened in 1964 to try its many unique sandwiches. Ideal for a quick lunch or snack, the bar vaunts more than 200 different types of sandwiches.

Monday to Sunday 7.30 am to 2 am via Quadronno, 34 Ph. +39 02 58306612 barquadronno.it

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can also be enjoyed comfortably seated in this space, overlooking the Darsena.

Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 11 pm Mercato Coperto Piazza XXIV Maggio Ph. +39 02 39468368

PIZZERIAS Cenerè With Davide La Grotteria and Daniele Tursi in the kitchen, original cuisine and contemporary pizza reign in this design-driven space boasting a current and refined style.

Alongside the chefs is the talented Michele Franco at the pizza oven, who invents creative and classic gourmet pizzas.

Monday to Friday 12.30 to 3 pm, 7.30 to 11 pm; Saturday open for dinner Piazza Virgilio, 3 corner via Boccaccio Ph. +39 02 4690288 ceneremilano.it

Ravioleria Sarpi Ravioli by Hujian Zhou, a graduate of Bocconi University, and Walter Sirtori, owner of a historic butcher’s shop, are both a cultural project and a symbol of innovation for creating the best possible blend between flavour, history and culture.

There are only three varieties available, and they can either be made for take-away or eaten on-site, on the beautiful pedestrian via Sarpi, the heart of Milan’s Chinatown. Still not convinced? The hours’ long wait is a sure-fire testament to its well-deserved success.

Monday to Sunday 10 am to 3 pm and 4 pm to 10 pm out Via Paolo Sarpi, 27 Ph. +39 331 887 0596

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RESTAURANTS & FOOD

Da Zero Da Zero boasts pizzas made only with special flour from the Caputo Mill, sourdough left to rise for at least 48 hours, quality ingredients like San Marzano tomatoes and an expert pizza maker. The gourmet pizzas here will make guests feel like they’re on the coast of Cilento.

Monday to Friday noon to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 11.30 pm Saturday and Sunday 7 pm to 11.30 pm Via dell’Orso, 4 NEW Via Bernardino Luini, 9 Ph. +39 02 83529189 cominciadazero.com

Giorgio Caruso, who loves to call himself and his staff (all born in Campania) “tomato specialists,” using nine different types of the red vegetable! The pizza is made with stone ground flour and topped with Slow Food ingredients.

Monday to Sunday noon to 3 pm and 7 pm to 11.30 pm Via Ravizza, 11 Ph. +39 02 84561374 pizzeria-lievita.com Marghe Original pizzas in a glamorous, designer, evening-chic setting, the pizzeria is in the capable hands of Matteo Mevio, whose international background is applied to the iconic Neapolitan dish.

Monday to Friday 12.30 pm to 3 pm and 7.30 pm to 11.30 pm; Saturday and Sunday 12.30 pm to 3 pm and 7 pm to midnight Via Plinio, 6 Ph. +39 02 2047117 Monday to Friday 12.30 pm to 3 pm and 7.30 pm to 11.30 pm; Saturday and Sunday 12.30 pm to 3 pm and 7 pm to midnight Via Cadore, 26 Ph. +39 02 54118711 lnx.marghepizza.com

Gino Sorbillo In a street leading to the cathedral, there’s something unexpected in Milan: a restaurant where offering genuine Neapolitan pizza, alongside other specialities. Try the margherita verace and the fried pizza.

Monday to Sunday noon to 11 pm Largo Corsia dei Servi, 11 Ph. +39 02 45375930 sorbillo.it Lievità Among the ten top pizzerias in Italy, the kitchen is the domain of 210

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

Il Massimo del Gelato Milano Winter: Tuesday to Sunday noon to 11 pm; Saturday noon to midnight. Summer: Tuesday to Sunday 12 am to 12 pm, closed from December 25 to the last Saturday in February out Via Lodovico Castelvetro, 18 Ph. +39 02 3494943 ilmassimodelgelatomilano.it

ICE CREAM SHOPS Chocolat Monday to Friday 7.30 pm to 1 am, Saturday 8 pm to 1 am Sunday 10 am to 1 am Via Boccaccio, 9 Ph. +39 02 48100597 chocolatmilano.it Ciacco Monday to Saturday 8 am to 9 pm; Sunday 2 to 9 pm Via Spadari, 13 Ph. +39 02 39663592 ciaccogelato.it

La Gelateria della Musica Tuesday to Thursday and Sunday 1 pm to 9 pm; Friday and Saturday 1 pm to 10.30 pm Via Abamonti, 2 Ph. +39 02 20520397 Tuesday to Thursday 12.30 to 10 pm; Friday and Saturday 12.30 pm to 23; Sunday noon to 10 pm Via Pestalozzi, 4 Ph. +39 02 38235911 Tuesday to Thursday 12.30 to 10 pm; Friday and Saturday 12.30 pm to 23; Sunday noon to 10 pm Via Cadore, 30 Ph. +39 02 23184942 lagelateriadellamusica.it

Gelateria Marghera Monday to Thursday 11 pm to midnight; Friday and Saturday 11 to 12:30 am out Via Marghera, 33 Ph. +39 02 468641 gelateriamarghera.it Il Felice Gelato di Milano Winter: Tuesday to Saturday noon to 11 pm; Sunday: 10 am to 11 pm. Summer: Tuesday to Sunday 11 am to midnight; Sunday 10 am to midnight Piazza Risorgimento corner Via Pisacane Ph. +39 02 70103218 felice-gelato-milano.business.site 211

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

Out of the Box Summer: Monday to Sunday noon to midnight .

Winter: Tuesday to Sunday 11 am to 11 pm Via Malpighi, 7 corner Via Sirtori Ph. +39 02 36637300

CAFÉS & PASTRY SHOP Bastianello Monday to Sunday 7 am to 9 pm Via Borgogna, 5 Ph. +39 02 76317065 bastianello.com Cova Monday to Saturday 7.45 am to 8.30 pm, Sunday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 8 Ph. +39 02 76005599 Ph. +39 02 76000578 pasticceriacova.com

Pavé Gelati & Granite Monday to Sunday noon to 8.30 pm out Via Cesare Battisti, 21 Ph. +39 02 94383619 pavemilano.com

Egalité Boulangerie Tuesday to Saturday 7.30 am to 9 pm; Sunday 8.30 am to 1 pm Via Melzo, 22 Ph. + 39 02 83482318 egalitemilano.it Giovanni Galli Monday to Saturday 8.30 am to 8 pm; Sunday 9 am to 1.30 pm Via Victor Hugo, 2 Ph. +39 02 86464833 giovannigalli.com Pasticceria Cucchi Tuesday to Sunday 7 am to 10 pm Corso Genova, 1 212

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

Ph. +39 02 89409793 pasticceriacucchi.it

Pasticceria Marchesi in via Monte Napoleone Monday to Sunday 7.30 am to 9 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 9 Ph. + 39 02 76008238 Pasticceria Sissi Monday 6.30 am to noon; Wednesday to Sunday 6.30 am to 8 pm out Piazza Risorgimento, 6 Ph. + 39 02 76014664 Sant Ambroeus Monday to Sunday 7.45 am to 8.30 pm; July: Monday to Saturday 7.45 am to 8.30 pm Corso Matteotti, 7 Ph. +39 02 76000540 santambroeusmilano.com Starbucks Reserve Milan Roastery Monday to Sunday 7 am to 10 pm Piazza Cordusio, 3 Ph.+39 02 91970326 starbucksreserve.com Sugar Monday to Saturday 8 am to 8 pm; Sunday 8 am to 6 pm Via Vincenzo Monti, 26 Ph. +39 02 4815376 sugarmilano.it

Pasticceria Ernst Knam Monday 4 pm to 8 pm; Tuesday to Friday 10 am to 1 pm and 4 pm to 8 pm; Saturday 10 am to 1 pm and 3 pm to 8 pm; Sunday 10 am to 1 pm Via Anfossi, 10 Ph. +39 02 55194448 eknam.com Pasticceria Iginio Massari Monday to Friday 7.30 am to 8 pm; Saturday 8.30 am to 8 pm; Sunday 9 am to 7.30 pm Via Guglielmo Marconi, 4 Ph. +39 02 49696962 iginiomassari.it Pasticceria Marchesi Tuesday to Saturday 7.30 am to 8 pm; Sunday 8.30 am to 1 pm Via Santa Maria alla Porta, 11/A Ph. +39 02 862770 / 876730 Pasticceria Marchesi in the Galleria Monday to Sunday 7.30 am to 9 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Ph. + 39 02 94181710 pasticceriamarchesi.com 213

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

Enoteca Cotti Tuesday to Saturday 9 am to 1 pm and 3 pm to 8 pm; in December open also on Sundays and Mondays Via Solferino, 42 Ph. +30 02 29001096 enotecacotti.it Exit – Gastronomia Urbana Monday to Friday 9 am to midnight; Saturday 11 am to midnight Piazza Erculea, 2 Ph. +39 02 35999080 exit-milano.com

FOOD SHOPPING Arte del ricevere Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm Via Melloni, 35 Ph. +39 02 715442 artedelricevere.com Centro Botanico Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.45 pm; Sunday 3 pm to 7.45 pm Piazza San Marco, 1 Ph. +39 02 29013254 centrobotanico.org Coffee Studio 7Gr. Monday to Friday 9 am to 7 pm Via Valparaiso, 9 Ph. +39 02 36561122 - 7gr.it Dammann Frères Monday to Sunday 10 am to 8 pm Piazza XXV Aprile, 12 Ph. +39 02 62910288 dammann.fr Eat’s Monday to Sunday 10 am to 9 pm Galleria del Corso, 4 Ph. +39 02 76015176 eatstore.it Eataly Smeraldo Monday to Sunday 8.30 am to midnight Piazza XXV Aprile, 10 Ph. +39 02 49497301 eataly.net/it

Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone Monday to Saturday 8 am to 10.30 pm Via Santo Spirito, 10 corner Via Gesù, 5 Ph. +39 02 76001123 ilsalumaiodimontenapoleone.it La Rinascente Food & Restaurant Monday to Saturday 8.30 am to midnight. Sunday 10 am to midnight. Entrances from la Rinascente Piazza Duomo (until store closing time) or via Santa Radegonda 1 and via San Raffaele 2 (entrance until midnight) 214

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

Piazza Duomo Ph. +39 02 8852471 rinascente.it Peck Monday 3 pm to 8 pm;Tuesday to Saturday 9 am to 8 pm; Sunday 10am to 5 pm Via Spadari, 9 Ph. +39 02 8023161 Peck Citylife Monday to Saturday 9 am to 11 pm; Sunday 9 am to 9 pm out Piazza Tre Torri Ph. +39 02 36642660 peck.it Torrefazione Moka Hodeidah Monday to Saturday 7 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday in December 8 am to 6 pm Via Piero della Francesca, 8 Ph. +39 02 342472 hodeidah.it Urbani Tartufi Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm Via Anfossi, 13 Ph. +39 02 54090175 urbanitartufi.it

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OUR BARMAN’S FAVOURITES

APERITIF & WINE BARS

216

APERITIF & WINE BARS

Armani/Bamboo Bar Monday to Sunday 11 am to 1 am Via Manzoni, 31 Ph. +39 02 88838888 armanihotelmilano.com Backdoor 43 Monday to Sunday 7.30 pm to 3 am Ripa di Porta Ticinese,43 Ph. +39 340 962 8890 Bar Luce/Fondazione Prada Summertime: Monday, Wednesday and Thursday 9 am to 9 pm; Wintertime: Friday to Sunday 9 am to 10 pm; Monday, Wednesday and Thursday 9 am to 8 pm; Friday to Sunday 9 am to 9 pm Largo Isarco, 2 Ph. + 39 02 56662611 fondazioneprada.org/barluce Camparino in Galleria Tuesday to Sunday 7.30 am to 8 pm Piazza Duomo, 21 corner Galleria Vittorio Emanuele Ph. +39 02 86464435 camparino.it Cantine Isola Tuesday to Sunday 10 am to 10 pm Via Paolo Sarpi, 30 Ph. +39 02 3315249 cantineisola.com Cape Town Cafè Monday to Sunday 6 pm to 2 am Via Vigevano, 3 Ph. +39 02 89403053 capetowncafe.it

Ceresio 7 Monday to Sunday 12.30 am to 1 am; finger food 6.30 pm to 9 pm Via Ceresio, 7 Ph. +39 02 31039221 ceresio7.com Deus Café Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday 9.30 am to 1 am; Friday and Saturday 9.30 am to 2 am Via Thaon di Revel, 3 Ph. +39 02 83439230 deuscafe.it Dry Cocktails & Pizza Tuesday to Sunday 7 pm to 1.30 am Via Solferino, 33 Ph. +39 02 63793414 Monday to Saturday noon to 3 pm and 7 pm to 2 am Viale Vittorio Veneto, 28 Ph. +39 02 63471564 drymilano.it El Buscia (Champagne bar) Monday and Sunday 5 pm to 10 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 11 am to 2 pm and 4.30 pm to 10 pm Viale Beatrice d’Este, 48 Ph. +39 02 45498762 elbuscia.it Fioraio Bianchi Caffè Monday to Saturday bar 8 am to midnight; Aperitif 6 pm to 8 pm; Via Montebello, 7 Ph. +39 02 29014390 fioraiobianchicaffe.it 217

APERITIF & WINE BARS

Ph. +39 02 88 2112 34 milan.park.hyatt.com N’Ombra de Vin Monday to Sunday noon to 2 am Via San Marco, 2 Ph. +39 02 6599650 nombradevin.it Nottingham Forest Tuesday to Saturday 6.30 pm to 2 am; Sunday 6.30 pm to 1 am Viale Piave, 1 nottingham-forest.com Octavius Bar Monday to Saturday 18 pm to 1 am Piazza Gae Aulenti, 4 Ph. +39 02 63793539 replaythestage.com Opera 33 Monday to Thursday and Sunday 6.30 pm to 2 am; Friday and Saturday 7 pm to 3 am out Via Carlo Farini, 33 Ph. +39 338 3566177 speziology.com PINCH Spirits & Kitchen Monday to Friday 6 pm to 2 am; Saturday and Sunday 12 am to 2 am Ripa di Porta Ticinese, 63 Ph. +39 02 36528204 Corso Garibaldi, 79 Ph. +39 02 6556 0659 Procacci Tuesday to Saturday 11 am to midnight; Sunday brunch

Fonderie Milanesi Tuesday to Thursday 7 pm to 1 am; Friday and Saturday; Brunch 12.30 am to 15 pm and 7 pm to 2 am; Sunday Brunch 12.30 am to 15 pm and 7 pm to 1 am Via Giovenale, 7 Ph. +39 02 36527913 Frida Monday to Friday 12 am to 15 am and 6 pm to 2 am; Saturday 11.30 am to 2 am; Sunday 5 pm to 1 am Via Pollaiuolo, 3 Ph. +39 02 680260 - fridaisola.it Mag Cafè Monday to Friday 7.30 am to 2 am; Saturday and Sunday 9 am to 2 am Ripa di Porta Ticinese, 43 Ph. +39 02 39562875 magcafemilano.myadj.it Mandarin Bar & Bistrot Wednesday to Saturday 8 am to 2 am, Sunday to Tuesday 8 am to 1 am Via Monte di Pietà, 16 Ph. +39 02 87318898 mandarinoriental.it Martini Bar by Dolce & Gabbana Monday to Saturday 9.30 am to 1 am; Sunday 9.30 am to midnight Corso Venezia, 15 Ph. +39 02 76011154 dolcegabbana.com/martini Mio-Park Hyatt Hotel Monday to Sunday 12 pm to 1 am Via Silvio Pellico, 3 218

APERITIF & WINE BARS

time noon to 5 pm Corso Garibaldi, 79 Ph. +39 02 6556 0659 procacci1885.it Radetzky Monday 8 am to 1.30 am; Tuesday to Saturday 8am to 2 am; Sunday 10am to 1.30 am Corso Garibaldi, 105 Ph. +39 02 6572645 radetzky.it Radio Rooftop Milan Sunday to Wednesday 7 am to 1 am; Thursday to Saturday 7 am to 2 am Via Marco Polo, 18 Ph. +39 02 84220109 radiorooftop.com Rita & Cocktails Monday to Sunday 6.30 pm to 2 am Via Fumagalli, 1 Ph. +39 02 8372865 Rotonda Bistrot Summertime (April-October): Monday to Sunday 9.30 pm to 11.30 pm. Wintertime: Tuesday to Friday 9.30 am to 6.30 pm; Saturday and Sunday 9.30 am to 7 pm Via Enrico Besana, 12 Ph. +39 02 55011404 rotondabistrot.it Surfer’s Den Wintertime (October-April):

Friday to Sunday 9 pm to 2.30 am; Summertime (MaySeptember): Friday to Sunday 7 pm to 2.30 am Piazza Caduti del Lavoro, 5 Ph. +39 338 5916764 surfersden.com The Botanical Club Monday to Wednesday 18.30 pm 1 am; Thursday, Friday and Saturday 6.30 pm to 2 am Via Pastrengo, 11 Ph. +39 02 36523846 thebotanicalclub.com The Doping Club at The Yard Hotel Monday to Sunday 6.30 pm to 1 am Piazza XXIV Maggio, 8 Ph. +39 02 89415901 theyardhotel.com/thedopingclub The Spirit Tuesday to Sunday 6 pm to 2 am Via Piacenza, 15 Ph. +39 02 84570612 thespirit.it Tibi Bistrot Provençal Monday to Saturday 7 pm to 2 am; Sunday 6 pm to midnight Via San Fermo, 1 Ph. +39 02 29014422 thedopingclub.com 219

NIGHTLIFE

OUR EVENT MANAGER’S FAVOURITES

NIGHTLIFE

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NIGHTLIFE

Armani Privé Wednesday 11.30 pm to 3.30 am; Thursday 10.30 pm to 3.30 am; Friday and Saturday 11.30 pm to 4 am Via Gastone Pisoni, 1 Ph. +39 02 62312655 armanipriveclub.com B38 Club Tuesday to Saturday 11.30 pm to 5am out Via Messina, 38 Ph. +39 338 8098326 b38.it Blanco Summer opening hours: Monday 7.45 am to midnight; Tuesday to Saturday 7.45 am to 2 pm, Sunday 6.30 pm to midnight Winter opening hours: Monday 7.45 am to midnight; Tuesday to Saturday 7.45am to 2 pm Via Giovanni Battista Morgagni, 2 Ph. +39 02 29405284 blancomilano.it Blue Note Tuesday to Saturday 9 pm and 11 pm; Sunday 9 pm (start time of the show) out Via Pietro Borsieri, 37 Ph. +39 02 69016888 bluenotemilano.com

Carlo e Camilla in segheria Monday to Sunday 6.30 pm to 2 am Via Giuseppe Meda, 24 Ph. +39 02 8373963 carloecamillainsegheria.it Club Plastic Friday to Sunday from midnight Via Gargano,15 Drinc Monday to Thursday 6 pm to 1 am; Friday and Saturday 6 pm to 2 am Via Plinio, 32 Ph. +39 333 9984815 drincmilano.eatbu.com Il Gattopardo Tuesday, Friday and Saturday 6 pm to 5 am; Wednesday 6 pm to 1am; Thursday 6pm to 3am; Sunday 6pm to 2am out Via Piero della Francesca, 47 Ph. +39 02 34537699 ilgattopardocafe.it Jazz Cafè Sunday to Thursday 5.30 pm to 2 am; Friday and Saturday 5.30 pm to 3 am Corso Sempione, 8 Ph. +39 02 33604039 jazzcafe.it

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Iter Tuesday to Sunday 8 pm to 1 am Via Giovanni Antonio Amadeo, 78 Ph. +39 02 70128680 labaleradellortica.com Just Cavalli Monday to Sunday 11 pm to 5 am Via Luigi Camoens c/o Torre Branca Ph. + 39 02 311817 milano.cavalliclub.com/it La Balera dell’Ortica From June to September Tuesday to Sunday 8 pm to 1 am Via Giovanni Antonio Amadeo, 78 Ph. +39 02 70128680 labaleradellortica.com Nepentha From September to May: Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday 9 pm to 5 am Piazza Armando Diaz, 1 Ph. +39 02 804837 nephentaclub.com Nottingham Forest Tuesday to Saturday 6.30 pm to 2 am; Sunday 6 pm to1 am Viale Piave, 1 Ph. +39 02 798311 nottingham-forest.com

Rocket From September 15 to June 30: Thursday to Saturday 11 pm to 5 am Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 98 Ph. +39 333 3313817 Terrazza 12 Monday to Sunday noon to 1 am Via Durini, 28 Ph. +39 02 92853651 terrazza12.it The Doping Club at The Yard Hotel Monday 6 pm to 1 am Tuesday, Wednesday 6 pm to 1.30 am; Thursday, Friday and Saturday 6 pm to 2 am Sunday 5 pm to 1 am Piazza XXIV Maggio, 8 Ph. +39 02 89415901 thedopingclub.com

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OUR PR DIRECTOR’S FAVOURITES

OUTSIDE MILAN

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LAGO MAGGIORE

LAGO DI COMO LECCO

COMO E62

E64

BERGAMO A4

MONZA

MILANO

FRANCIACORTA BRESCIA

LAGO DI GARDA

A7

AST I

E70

A33

20 Km

ALBA

charmed Romantic writers and today’s film stars, including George Clooney, who fell in love with Villa Oleandra in Laglio, reign in the magical quietude of the shores of Lake Como: Villa Olmo in Como; Villa Carlotta in Tremezzo, with its art collection; Villa Giulia in Bellagio; Villa Balbianello in Lenno, where director George Lucas set the romantic planet of Naboo in Star Wars: Episode 2; and Villa d’Este in Cernobbio. Our suggestion is to take a taxi boat decorated in classic mahogany and enjoy a day trip on the lake.

LAKE COMO

The mountains drop steeply above the water, shaping a magical landscape with gardens, little beaches and old towns where life marches on unchanged. Lake Como never ceases to attract visitors with its elegance and charm. Como is small and enjoyable to explore on foot. On the shore, visitors can find the boat piers and the funicular that snakes up the hill to Brunate, offering a spectacular view of the lake below.

Dreamlike villas and parks that 225

OUTSIDE MILAN

WHERE TO STAY: Mandarin Oriental, Lago di Como This is the new entry on the shores of this world’s most famous must-visit destinations. A five-star lakefront splendour coupled with a serene setting, nestled between luxuriant botanical park and lake, the resort’s beautiful architecture and gardens exude glamour.

Housed within nine separate buildings which juxtapose classical and modern architecture, guest accommodation, includes 21 guestrooms, 52 suites and

junior suites and two private villas. Each building is strategically placed to offer the best views and access to the expansive landscaped garden and lakeshore.

Located in the secluded village of Blevio, the resort is a onehour drive from Milan (55km) or Malpensa International airport (57km). From here many countryside pursuits can be enjoyed, along with opportunities to explore the charming villages dotted along Lake Como’s shoreline.

Via Caronti, 69 - Blevio (CO) Ph. +39 031 32 511 mandarinoriental.com 226

OUTSIDE MILAN

Frazione Parè, 69/73 Valmadrera (LC) Ph. +39 0341 583106 alterrazzo.com Villa Olmo Via Simone Cantoni, 1 (CO) Ph. +39 031 252352 villaolmocomo.it WHERE TO EAT: Crotto del Sergente via Crotto del Sergente, 13 Località Lora (CO) Ph. +39 031 283911 crottodelsergente.it Figli dei Fiori Via Borgovico, 39A (CO) Ph. +39 031 570006 figlideifiori.com Il Solito Posto Via Lambertenghi, 9 (CO) Ph. +39 031 271352 Ph. +39 333 3117116 ilsolitoposto.net L’Orangerie Restaurant (Mandarin Oriental, Lago di Como) Via Caronti, 69 - Blevio (CO) Ph. +39 031 32516034 mandarinoriental.com Riva Café Via Fratelli Cairoli, 10 (CO) Ph. +39 031 264325 rivacafecomo.com

WHAT TO VISIT: Aero Club Como Via Masia, 44 (CO) Ph. +39 031 574495 aeroclubcomo.com Alessandro Volta Museum Largo Marconi - Como Ph. +39 031 574705 Como-Brunate funicular Uffici Funicolare piazza Alcide de Gasperi, 4 (CO) Ph. +39 031 303608 funicolarecomo.it Como Cathedral Via Maestri Comacini, 6 (CO) Ph. +39 031 3312275 cattedrale.diocesidicomo.it The Boat Piers navigazionelaghi.it Villa Balbianello Via Comoedia, 5 Loc. Lenno - Tremezzina (CO) Ph. +39 0344 56110 Villa Carlotta Via Regina, 2 Tremezzina Loc. Tremezzo (CO) Ph. +39 0344 40405 villacarlotta.it Villa d’Este Via Regina, 40 - Cernobbio (CO) Ph. +39 031 3481 villadeste.com Villa Giulia 227

OUTSIDE MILAN

ALBA

BERGAMO

The land of great Piedmontese red wine and the most prized truffles in the world, hilly scenery, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and unforgettable food make the Langhe region a place to linger. Around Alba, the main city and international white truffle capital, some of the world’s finest wines are produced, like Barolo. During your time in the region, you might come across some giant benches by US designer Chris Bangle (head of design for BMW for almost 20 years) and now has a studio there.

Locanda la Ciau del Tornavento Piazza Baracco, 7 Treiso (CN) Ph. +39 0173 638333 laciaudeltornavento.it Piazza Duomo Alba Piazza Risorgimento, 4 corner of Vicolo dell’Arco Alba (CN) Ph. +39 0173 366167 piazzaduomoalba.it

What makes Bergamo so special is its division into Bergamo Bassa and Bergamo Alta.

The latter is the true old heart of the city that can only be reached on foot or with the funicular. The enchanting upper town, encircled with medieval walls, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is dotted with artisan workshops, boutiques, restaurants and coffee shops. You can walk around and gaze out at the surrounding countryside from on high.

Da Vittorio Via Cantalupa, 17 Brusaporto (BG) Ph. +39 035 681024 davittorio.com

FRANCIACORTA

A small plot of boggy land, from Brescia to Lake Iseo and 24/7 peace guaranteed. We are in the land of great Italian bubblies where vineyards petered out on the shores of the lake.

For an authentic wine tourism experience, take the Strada del Franciacorta, 80km amidst 228

OUTSIDE MILAN

hills, nature reserves, waterways, villas and castles. Wineries are always open.

L’ Albereta Via Vittorio Emanuele, 23 Erbusco (BS) Ph. + 39 030 7760550 albereta.it

VARESE

A trip out of town that’s worth the journey is the graceful Villa Menafoglio Litta Panza, built in the mid 1700s and home to the collection that belonged to Count Giuseppe Panza di Biumo. Be wowed by the spectacular permanent light installations by James Turrell, Dan Flavin and Robert Irwin, designed specifically for Biumo and now a destination for art lovers and experts alike.

Villa Panza di Biumo Monday to Sunday 10 am to 6 pm Piazza Litta, 1 (VA) Ph. +39 0332 283960 fondoambiente.it Luce restaurant Piazza Litta, 1 (VA) Ph. +39 0332 242199

LAKE GARDA

Vineyards, olive and lemon trees, high and low-lying shores, a treasure worth visiting slowly. The lake has four souls: to the north there’s a Norwegian fiord, deep and blue, an oasis for kite surfers and mountain bikers; to the east is the Costa Azzurra, with its winding road on the water’s edge; to the west, there’s the Costiera Amalfitana, with tunnels dug deep into the walls that drop down steeply; and to the south, the lake becomes a sea that extends into the Po Valley.

Lefay Resort & Spa Via Angelo Feltrinelli, 136 Gargnano (BS) Ph. + 39 0365 241800 lefayresorts.com 229

INDEX & Other Stories 7 For All Mankind 10 Corso Como

163 163 46, 163

A

Abercrombie 163 Accademia di Belle Arti 41, 42, 149 Accademia di Brera 42 Acqua di Parma 34, 188 Aero Club Como 227 Aesop 188 Agent Provocateur La Rinascente 163 Al Coniglio Bianco 202 Al Matarel 202 Al Mercato 208 Alba 228 Alberta Ferretti 163 Alessandro Volta Museum 227 Alessi 185 Alexander McQueen 163 Alfonso Garlando 178 Alice ristorante 49 Anaconda Gioielli 126 Angelo Fusco 178 Ansaldo Workshops 112, 149 Antica Osteria Cavallini 202 Antica Trattoria della Pesa 202 Antonia 163 Antonio Citterio 13 Antonio Guida 11, 142, 196 230

Apple Store 67, 185 Aquazzurra 178 Archaeological Museum 149 Arco della pace 18, 85, 96 Arena 96 Armani 28, 60 Armani/Bamboo Bar 217 Armani Casa 185 Armani Libri 190 Armani Nobu 198 Armani PrivĂŠ 221 Armani Silos 104, 149 Arte del ricevere 214 Artemide 185 Ash 178 Aspesi 163 Astronomical Museum and Astronomical Observatory 42, 149 Attimi by Heinz Beck 95 Audemars Piguet 182 Auditorium di Milano 160

B

B38 Club 221 B&B Italia Store 185 Ba - Asian Mood 198 Backdoor 43 217 Bagni Misteriosi at Teatro Franco Parenti 127, 149 Baldinini 178 Balenciaga 164 Ballin 178

Blue Note 221 Blumarine 164 Bocconi University 119 Boffi 48, 185 Boglioli 164 Bomba 208 Bonpoint 164 Borsalino 178 Boschi Di Stefano House Museum 78, 150 Bose 185 Botanical Gardens 42, 48, 150 Bottega Veneta 164 Bottega Veneta Home 185 Breguet 182 Brera 17, 37, 39, 41, 42 Brioni 164 British Box 188 Brunello Cucinelli 164 Buccellati 182 Bulgari 34, 182 Bullona 205 Burberry 165

Balmain 164 Banner 164 Bar Luce Fondazione Prada 122, 217 Bar Quadronno 208 Barba Napoli 164 Barovier&Toso 185 Basilica of San Babila 149 Basilica of San Lorenzo 101, 112, 149 Basilica of San Simpliciano 39, 149 Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio 83, 85, 150 Basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie 17, 83, 85, 86, 88, 150 Bastianello 212 Bellora 185 Bergamo 228 Berluti 178 Bernardini 182 Berton 193 Bialetti 185 Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense 42, 150 Biblioteca degli Alberi Park 74 Biblioteca Sormani 117, 150 Biblioteca Trivulziana (at Castello Sforzesco) 92, 150 Biffi Boutique 164 BjoĚˆrk 198 Blanco 221

C

Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana Camparino in Galleria Campomarzio 70 Canali Canteen Cantine Isola 231

28 217 188 165 198 217

Cape Town cafè 114, 217 Car Shoe 178 Cargo Milano - HighTech 186 Carlo e Camilla in segheria 221 Carlo Tivioli 165 Cartier 183 Casa Berri-Meregalli 78 Casa degli Atellani and Leonardo’s Vineyard 88, 150 Casa Galimberti 78 Casa Guazzoni 78 Cassina 186 Castello Sforzesco

18, 83, 85, 92, 151 Cathedral’s terrace 151 Cavalli e Nastri 165 CB Made in Italy 178 Cèline 165 Cenerè 209 Centro Botanico 214 Ceresio 7 205, 217 Cesare Paciotti 179 Chanel 165 Chanel Beauty 189 Chantecler Capri 183 Chloè 165 Chocolat 211 Chopard 34, 183 Christofle 186 Church of Cristoforo on the Naviglio 151 Church of San Maurizio 232

al Monastero Maggiore 83, 97, 151 Church of Sant’Eustorgio and Portinari Chapels 101, 151 Church of Santa Maria del Carmine 151 Church of Santa Maria presso San Satiro 53, 151 Church’s 179 Ciacco 211 Cinema Dumont 78 Cittamani 199 Citylife 95 Citylife Anteo 95 Civic Museums 92 Club Plastic 221 Coffee Studio 7Gr. 214 Collezione Lorenzi 34 Como-Brunate funicolar 227 Como Cathedral 227 Comptoir des Cotonniers 165 Contraste 193 Corneliani 166 Corso Como 37, 41, 46 Corso Como Bookshop 190 Corso Garibaldi 41, 49 Corso Magenta 83, 97 Corso Matteotti 35 Corso Venezia 27, 34, 71, 73, 78 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 66 Cos 166 Cova 35, 212 Cracco 193

Crotto del Sergente Culti Milano

227 189

E

E. Marinella 179 Eat’s 214 Eataly Smeraldo 49, 214 Ecliss 113 Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle 189 Égalité Boulangerie 79, 212 Egyptian Museum 92, 152 El Buscia (Champagne bar) 217 El Carnicero 199 El Porteño Arena 199 Elfo Puccini 160 Emilio Pucci 167 Emporio Armani 168 Enoteca Cotti 214 Enrico Bartolini - Mudec 113, 194 Ermenegildo Zegna 167 Etro 167 Etro Fragrances 189 Excelsior Milano 167 Exit Gastronomia Urbana 214

D

Da Giacomo 203 Da Vittorio 228 Daad Dantone 166 Damiani 183 Dammann Frères 214 Darsena 18, 103, 110 Da Zero 210 De Padova 186 Democracy Design 95 Design District 48 Design Museum 20, 83, 96 Del Carlo 179 Deus Cafè 217 Devi Kroell 179 Dim Sum 199 Dimorae 186 Dior 166 Dodo 183 Dolce & Gabbana 28, 34, 166 Doriani 166 Dr. Vranjes 189 Driade 186 Drinc 221 Dry Cocktails & Pizza 217 Dsquared2 166 Duomo 17, 51, 53, 55, 56, 65, 151 Duomo Museum 17, 152

F

Falconeri 167 Fashion District 17, 23, 27, 35, 41 Fay 34, 167 Fedeli 167 Feltrinelli Duomo 190 Fendi 167 Ferrari Store 167 Figli dei Fiori 227 233

Filippo La Mantia 205 Financial District 67 Finger’s Garden 200 Fioraio Bianchi Caffè 217 Flos 186 Food Market 66 Fondazione Arnaldo Pomodoro 25, 152 Fondazione Carriero 152 Fondazione Gianfranco Ferrè 153 Fondazione Feltrinelli 49, 152 Fondazione Forma per la Fotografia 152 Fondazione Franca Albini 152 Fondazione Prada 18, 122, 119, 117, 152 Fondazione Riccardo Catella 74, 153 Fondazione Studio Museo Achille Castiglioni 153 Fondazione Studio Museo Vico Magistretti 153 Fonderia Artistica Battaglia 153 Fonderie Milanesi 218 Fornasetti 34, 186 Franciacorta 228 Franck Muller 183 Fratelli Rossetti 179 Frette 186 Frida 218 Furla 179

G

Galleria Kaufmann Repetto 153 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

17, 53, 55, 60, 66, 122, 153 Gallerie d’Italia 55, 67, 153 Gallia e Peter 167 Gallo 179 GAM - Gallery of Modern Art 71, 73, 153 Garage Italia 206 Gelateria Marghera 211 Giacomo Arengario 65, 203 Giacomo Bistrot 203 Giambattista Valli 168 Gianvito Rossi 180 Gino Sorbillo 210 Giò Marconi Gallery 154 Gio Moretti 34, 168 Giorgio Armani 168 Giovanni Galli 127, 212 Giuseppe Zanotti Design 180 Givenchy 168 Gogol & Company 190 Guastalla gardens 126 Gucci 48, 60, 168 Guess 168 Gusella 180

H

Hermès Herno Highline Galleria 234

168 168 154

Hogan Huawei Experience Store Hugo Boss

Kenzo Kiton Krizia

180 186 168

I

L

I Pinco Pallino 169 Il Gattopardo 221 Il Gufo 169 Il Felice Gelato 211 Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia 194 Il Massimo del Gelato Milano 211 Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone 32, 214 Il Solito Posto 227 Indro Montanelli Public Garden 73, 78 Isabel Marant 169 Isaia 169 Italia Independent 180 Iter 222 Iyo 200

J

Jaeger - LeCoultre Jazz Cafè Jil Sander Jimmy Choo Jo Malone Joia Just Cavalli

K

Kartell

169 169 169

L.O.V.E 67 L’Albereta 229 L’Arabesque 126, 169 L’Alchimia 206 L’Orangerie Restaurant 227 La Balera dell’Ortica 222 La Briciola 203 La Gelateria della Musica 211 La Martina 169 La Perla 170 La Rinascente 66, 170 La Rinascente Food & Restaurant 214 La Statale University 117, 119, 160 La Triennale di Milano 79, 83, 85, 96, 154 Lake Como 225, 226 Lake Garda 229 Lake Iseo 228 Laminam Milan Showroom 187 Langosteria 206 Langosteria Cafè Milano 206 Langosteria Bistrot 206 Lanvin 170 Larusmiani 170 Last Supper Cenacolo Vinciano 17, 85, 86, 88, 154

183 221 169 180 189 194 174, 222 187 235

Lefay Resort & Spa 229 Leica Store 66, 145, 187 Leonardo’s Vineyard 88, 151 Lia Rumma Gallery 154 Liberty Quarter 78 Libreria Bocca 190 Libreria dell’Automobile 190 Libreria dello Sport 190 Libreria Internazionale Ulrico Hoepli 190 Libreria Rizzoli Galleria 60, 190 Lievità 210 Liu Jo 170 Locanda la Ciau del Tornavento 228 Locanda Perbellini 206 Loewe 170 Longchamp 180 Loro Piana 170 Louis Vuitton 35, 60, 170 Love Moschino 172 Luca Finardi 8 Luce restaurant 229 Luciano Barbera 170 Luisa Beccaria 171 Luisa Spagnoli 171 Lume 194

M

M. Bardelli Macelleria Popolare Mag Cafè Maliparmi

Malo 171 Mandarin Bar & Bistro 134, 218 Mandarin Oriental, Milan 128 Marge 210 Marni 171 Martini Bar by Dolce & Gabbana 218 Massimo De Carlo Gallery 154 Max Mara 171 Max&Co 171 Michael Kors 171 Milan Cathedral (Duomo) 17, 55, 56, 152 Milan Fashion Week 17, 28 Milano Central Station 71 Milano Design Week 85, 197 Mio-Park Hyatt Hotel 218 Missoni 171 Miu Miu 34, 172 Moorer 172 Moncler 34, 172 Mondadori 191 Monica De Cardenas Gallery 154 Montblanc 180 Moschino 172 Mr&Mrs 172 MUBA - Milan Children’s Museum 119, 120, 154 MUDEC - Museum of Cultures 18, 101, 112, 154 Museo Bagatti Valsecchi 32, 155 Museo del Novecento

18, 55, 65, 155

171 208 110, 218 171 236

Museo del Risorgimento 155 Museo Nazionale Scienza e Tecnologia 88, 101, 155 Museo Poldi Pezzoli 25, 155 Museum of Ancient Art (at Castello Sforzesco) 92, 155 Museum of Applied Arts (at Castello Sforzesco) 92, 156 Museum of Costume Fashion and Appearance 35, 156 Museum of Furniture and Wooden Sculptures (at Castello Sforzesco) 92, 156 Museum of Musical Instruments (at Castello Sforzesco) 92, 156

Nottingham Forest

218, 222

O

Octavius Bar 218 Officina Profumo - Farmaceutica Santa Maria Novella 189 Officine Panerai 183 Omega 183 Opera 33 218 Ospedale Maggiore 120 Osservatorio Fondazione Prada 122, 156 Out of the Box 212

P

P.a.r.o.s.h.

172 PAC - Pavilion of Contemporary Art 71, 73, 157 Pacifico 200 Pal Zileri 173 Palazzo Anguissola 67 Palazzo dell’Arengario 65 Palazzo Beltrami 67 Palazzo Brentani 67 Palazzo Castiglioni 78 Palazzo di Brera 42 Palazzo Dugnani 78 Palazzo Litta Cultura 157 Palazzo Mezzanotte 67 Palazzo Morando 35 Palazzo Reale 18, 53, 55, 157 Palazzo Sormani 117

N

N’Ombra de Vin 218 National Chamber of Italian Fashion 28 Natural History Museum 71, 73, 78, 156 Navigli 18, 41, 99, 103 Navigli Canal District 101 Naviglio Grande 101, 103, 110 Naviglio Pavese 101, 103, 110 Neil Barrett 172 Nepentha 222 New Milan 18, 74 Nilufar Gallery 34, 156 Nonostante Marras 172 North Sail 172 237

Piccolo Teatro Studio Mariangela Melato 161 Pietà Rondanini 85, 92, 157 Pinacoteca Ambrosiana

18, 53, 55, 88, 157 Pinacoteca di Brera

17, 42, 48, 92, 158 Pinacoteca (at Castello Sforzesco) 158 PINCH Spirits & Kitchen 218 Pinko 173 Pirelli Hangar Bicocca 158 Pirelli Tower 158 Pisa Orologeria Flagship Store 184 Pisacco 207 Planetarium 71, 73, 78, 160 Poliform 187 Pomellato 184 Porsche Design 173 Porselli 180 Porta Nuova 18, 46, 69, 73, 74 Porta Romana 115, 117, 119 Porta Ticinese 99, 103, 110, 112, 113 Porta Venezia 18, 73, 78 Portinari chapel 101, 151 Prada 28, 34, 60, 66, 174 Prehistory and Protohistory Museum (at Castello Sforzesco) 92, 158 Procacci 49, 218 Profumerie Mazzolari 189 Profumo 189

Paolo Moretti Pelle e Pellicce 173 Parco delle Basiliche 101 Parco Sempione 18, 83, 85, 96 Pasticceria Cucchi 212 Pasticceria Ernst Knam 213 Pasticceria Iginio Massari 213 Pasticceria Marchesi 213 Pasticceria Marchesi in Galleria 66, 122, 213 Pasticceria Marchesi in via Monte Napoleone 213 Pasticceria Sissi 213 Patrizia Pepe 173 Paul Smith 173 Pavè Gelati & Granite 212 Peck 215 Peck Citylife 95, 215 Pellini 183 Pellux 180 Philipp Plein 173 Piaget 184 Piazza Affari 67 Piazza d’Armi 92 Piazza del Carmine 39 Piazza Duomo 53, 66 Piazza Duomo Alba 228 Piazza Gae Aulenti 49, 39, 73, 74 Piazza San Babila 25, 66 Piazza San Sempliciano 39 Piazza Sant’Eustorgio 101 Piccolo Teatro Grassi 39, 161 Piccolo Teatro Strehler 161 238

Public Library Venezia Pupi Solari

Rotonda Bistrot 219 Rotonda della Besana 117, 119, 120 Roy Rogers 174 Rubinacci 175

78, 158 174

Q

Quadrilatero della Moda (Fashion square)

R

Radetzky Radio Rooftop Milan Raffaella Curiel Ratanà Ravioleria Sarpi Raw Red - Feltrinelli Red Valentino René Caovilla Richard Ginori Richard Mille Rick Owens Ristorante Morelli Ristorante Solferino Rita & Cocktails Riva Cafè Rivolta Roberto Cavalli Rocket Rodo Roger Vivier Rolex Boutique Roman Amphitheater Rossana Orlandi

S

27

Sabbadini 184 Sadler 195 Sahrai 187 Saigon 200 Saint Laurent 175 Sakeya 201 Salvatore Ferragamo 175 Samsonite 181 San Cristoforo Church 113 San Lorenzo 101, 112 San Lorenzo Columns 112 San Siro Stadium 159 Sant Ambroeus 35, 213 Santa Giustina 32 Santoni 181 Sartoria A. Caraceni 175 Sartoria Rossi 175 Sawaya & Moroni 187 Science Museum 88 Serapian 175 Sergio Rossi 181 Sermoneta Gloves 34, 175 Seta Restaurant 142, 196 Sikélaia 196 Silvano Lattanzi 181 Simonetta Ravizza 175

219 219 174 74, 204 208 96 191 176 181 48, 187 184 174 195 204 219 227 181 174 222 181 181 184 83, 158 97, 187 239

Siniscalchi Camicie su misura 175 SIX 112 Society Limonta 187 Solar Disc 25 Spazio Milano 207 Spelta Milano 181 Stadio Meazza (San Siro) 159 Stamberga 79 Starbucks Reserve 213 Stefano Ricci 36, 176 Stella McCartney 176 Stone Island 176 Stuart Weitzman 181 Studio Giangaleazzo Visconti 159 Sugar 213 Surfer’s Den 219 Synagogue 126, 159

Teatro Manzoni 161 Teatro Nazionale 161 Teatro Nuovo 161 Teatro Studio Melato 41, 160 Terrazza 12 222 Terrazza Calabritto 207 The American Bookstore 191 The Boat Piers 227 The Botanical Club 219 The Doping Club at The Yard Hotel 219, 222 The Last Supper 17, 85, 86, 88, 154 The Spirit 219 Tibi Bistrot Provencal 219 Tiffany&co 34, 184 Tindaro De Luca 176 Tod’s 34, 182 Tokuyoshi 201 Tom Ford 176 Torre Branca 96, 159 Torre Unicredit 74 Torre Velasca 117 Torrefazione Moka Hodeidah 215 Tory Burch 176 Trattoria da Pino 127 Trattoria del Pescatore 204 Triennale di Milano 79, 154 Triennale Bookstore 191 Triennale Design Museum 18, 83, 96 Triennale Gardens 96 Triennale Teatro dell’Arte 161 Trippa 204

T

Tano Passami l’Olio 196 Taschen 97, 191 Tearose 187 Teatro Armani 104 Teatro alla Scala 62, 112, 160 Teatro alla Scala museums 55, 159 Teatro Carcano 160 Teatro Dal Verme 160 Teatro degli Arcimboldi 161 Teatro Franco Parenti 127, 149, 161 Teatro Grassi 160 Teatro Litta 161 240

Trussardi Trussardi alla Scala Tumi Turi

Via Monte Napoleone

17, 25, 27, 34, 46 Via San Marco 41 Via Sant’Andrea 27 Via Santo Spirito 32 Via Solferino 48 Via Tortona 99, 103 Vilebrequin 177 Villa Balbianello 225, 227 Villa Carlotta 225, 227 Villa d’Este 225, 227 Villa Giulia 227 Villa Invernizzi 78 Villa Olmo 227 Villa Menafoglio Litta Panza 229 Villa Milano 184 Villa Necchi Campiglio 76, 160 Villa Panza di Biumo 229 Villa Reale 73 Vionnet 177 Vòce - Aimo e Nadia 67, 194 Vun 197

176 197 182 127

U

Ulrico Hoepli Planetarium c/o Indro Montanelli Public Gardens 71, 78, 160 Uman 176 University of Milan La Statale 117, 119, 160 Urbani Tartufi 215

V

Valentino 176 Valextra 182 Valli Tessuti 187 Van Cleef & Arpels 184 Varese 229 Vasiliki Kouzina 201 Venini 188 Versace 28, 60, 176 Versace Collection 177 Versace Home 188 Vertical Forest 18, 74 Vetrerie di Empoli 188 Vhernier 184 Via Cerva 127 Via della Spiga 27, 34 Via Gesù 32, 34 Via Manzoni 25, 27, 34, 35

W

Wait and See Wicky’s WP Store

Z

Zadig & Voltaire

241

177 201 177 177

LEGEND Districts Fashion District Brera | Corso Como Duomo Porta Venezia | Garibaldi | Repubblica The Castle | Sempione | Magenta Navigli and Tortona | Porta Ticinese From the Centre to Porta Romana out Out of map Shopping Accessories Crafts Kids Men’s Women’s Restaurants Gluten Free Vegetarian Vegan Kosher

243

With thanks to the management Mandarin Oriental, Milan

of

Mandarin Oriental, Milan Via Andegari, 9 - Milan Ph. +39 02 8731 8888 mandarinoriental.com

Editor in Chief

Matteo Parigi Bini

Editorial Director Donatella Brun

Consulting Editors

Meri Pujadas, Stephanie Greger

Publisher Gruppo Editoriale

Alex Vittorio Lana, Matteo Parigi Bini

Authors

Teresa Favi, Francesca Lombardi

Editorial Staff

Sabrina Bozzoni, Virginia Mammoli, Mila Montagni, Pamela Pettinelli

Photos

Maurizio Beucci for Leica Store Milano (p. 8,10, 22, 36, 50, 68, 80, 89, 98, 114) Dario Garofalo Images of the hotel provided by the Mandarin Oriental Milan

Cover

Leonardo da Vinci, Portrait of a Musician, Oil on wood panel, 1485, Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, Milano. Ph. Maurizio Beucci for Leica Store Milano

In collaboration with

Graphic design

Martina Alessi, Chiara Bini

Translations

The Florentine

Š

Via Piero della Francesca, 2 - Prato gruppoeditoriale.com

ŠAll rights reserved

The authors and Gruppo Editoriale have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book. We make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content.

Printed in January 2019

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