Issuu

CITY GUIDEBOOK 2018

2 4

5 1 3 6

Mandarin Oriental, Milan Via Andegari, 9 - Milan Ph. +39 02 8731 8888 mandarinoriental.com

CONTENTS

Luca Finardi 8

Antonio Guida 10

Antonio Citterio, Patricia Viel 12

Best attractions in Milan 20

DISTRICTS

1 FASHION DISTRICT

2 BRERA | CORSO COMO

3 DUOMO

4 PORTA VENEZIA | GARIBALDI | REPUBBLICA

5 THE CASTLE | SEMPIONE | MAGENTA

6 PORTA TICINESE | NAVIGLI | TORTONA

102

7 FROM THE CENTRE TO PORTA ROMANA

118

CONTENTS

MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MILAN

PLACES TOP ATTRACTIONS, ART & THEATRES

132 148 150

SHOPPING 164 RESTAURANTS & FOOD

194

APERITIF & WINE BARS

218

NIGHTLIFE 222 OUTSIDE MILAN

226

INDEX

232

LEGEND

244

Luca Finardi

THE CITY I LOVE When I was in Florence, I thought it was the most beautiful place in the world. Then Taormina bewitched me with the power of the Ionians and the ancient civilization that still lingers in every corner of Sicily. One day, an opportunity presented itself to come to Milan with Mandarin Oriental, Milan to open a new hotel, unique in its kind. And then I fell in love with this city too... I fell in love with its light fog, which was disappearing, its courtyards full of colour, hidden gardens and festive events. For me this is the city of the future, which only looks forward, surprising me every day. Always curious, always innovative, continually transforming, Milan is like a caterpillar that becomes a butterfly. Here, I meet so many interesting people that challenge you as much as they force you to stay up-to-date. Milan has developed a network of excellences related to culture, fashion, design, food and wine. Visitors who come back to Milan after a few years remain wowed and pleasantly amazed. And it canâ€™t be overlooked that Milan boasts an enviable geographic position for day trips to Lakes Como, Maggiore, Iseo, Orta and Garda, the upper city of Bergamo, the vineyards in Franciacorta, the truffle-based restaurants in Alba, the city of Monza with the Villa Reale and its park, but also the famous Formula 1 race circuit, and the extraordinary Certosa di Pavia. Mandarin Oriental, Milan, housed in some of the most beautiful buildings in the town centre, has proudly revealed itself to be a protagonist of the cityâ€™s dynamism.

Luca Finardi, General Manager Mandarin Oriental, Milan 9

Antonio Guida

MY CUISINE Before arriving at the Mandarin Oriental, Milan as Executive Chef, I had a series of life-changing experiences, like the one with Pierre Gagnaire in Paris’ rue Balzac; genial, dynamic cuisine, where the dishes changed during service and taught me to improvise without fear of fantasy. I was at Seta Restaurant before its foundation, designing the kitchens, training my team one by one with my executive sous-chef Federico Dell’Omarino and pastry chef Nicola Di Lena, the very best in their respective roles. Seta Restaurant gained a Michelin star only a few months after opening and now we’ve achieved a second star. We called the restaurant Seta for many reasons: to remember Marco Polo, the first to create a bond between East and West, the origins of our brand, to recall the soft and precious sensation that I research in my dishes and lastly, to emphasize the exotic surprises that are part of my cuisine. The menu is adapted to the seasons, for example, mushrooms and truffles in the autumn. I do this also because I don’t like static cuisine. Respect for ingredients is manifest. I love the small ingredients that make a difference, spices like cardamom, star anise, citron, Jerusalem artichoke and lime which I put in everything. For the presentation, I love decisive colours, yellow, green, red, which go together harmoniously: when a chef creates a dish, attention must be paid to the colour as much as the taste. I’m an artisan chef and I love cheerful food that respects Italian tradition.

Antonio Guida, Michelin-starred Executive Chef Seta Restaurant 11

ph. Settimio Benedusi

Antonio Citterio and Patricia Viel

MILAN STYLE Mandarin Oriental, Milan project involved the redevelopment of four adjacent historic buildings along a decidedly Milanese street: the buildings, very different in their styles and original use, reveal a rare sample of ancient Milan. While the four facades still appear markedly distinctive on the outside, a link runs through the inner spaces and courtyards, sparking a set of environments that are different in style yet in harmony with one another. The grey stone floor in the ground floor lobby seeks continuity with the entrance courtyard on via Andegari, thus creating a place of passage, recalling the carriage atrium of the past. Mandarin Bar & Bistrot, entirely in white and black marble mosaic, is the project’s most iconic space, as well as the hotel’s beating heart. The environment opens out onto the city, welcoming locals and international travellers in a place made for sociality. The rooms, instead, are furnished in a neutral style, in calming shades of beige, black and white; they represent the other side of Milanese style, the city’s quiet and private side in clear contrast with the exuberance of the public space on the ground floor. We have sought to instill all these spaces with a welcoming and very Milanese ambience. With our personal style, we would like guests to start breathing in the city’s atmosphere as soon as they arrive, making a stay at our hotel, truly original and unforgettable.

Antonio Citterio and Patricia Viel architects, urban planners, designers 13

BEST ATTRACTIONS IN MILAN

The Duomo and its Museum The Lombard Gothic style in all its grandeur. The museum houses the Cathedral’s treasures. Pag. 58

The Fashion District Via Monte Napoleone and the neighboring streets are the height of luxury shopping, while Fashion Week is a must for the fashion-addicted.

Pag. 92

Pag. 22

Santa Maria delle Grazie The church refectory is home to Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper, the Renaissance genius’s masterpiece.

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Opened in 1867, this architectural accomplishment in Neo-Renaissance-style iron stands at 47 metres tall. Pag. 62

Brera and its Pinacoteca An exuberant and trendychic neighbourhood, whose cultural centre is the painting gallery. Pag. 44

BEST ATTRACTIONS IN MILAN

Pag. 126

Navigli and Darsena Milan at its most authentic, enjoy the bohemian atmosphere along the canals and the newly open dock area.

Pag. 96

Other museums Don’t miss: Museo del Novecento, Palazzo Reale, MUDEC, Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, the Fondazione Prada and the Design Museum.

Pag. 102

Castello Sforzesco A symbol of Milan, with its striking fountain and courtyards, it is one of the most extraordinary castles in Italy.

Parco Sempione The city’s most beloved park by locals, it’s a green island between the Arco della Pace and the castle. Pag. 84

Pag. 38

New Milan The changing city: the architecture and skyscrapers of Porta Nuova, with the award-winning Vertical Forest.

FASHION DISTRICT

LL I

V IA

DIN I V IA DEI G IAR

LL’ANN UNC IA T A

BO RG VO UO ON

V ILLA BEL

MA NZ ON

BRERA BO TANIC GARDEN

SS AND RO

V IA

ALE

O SS

I HOE PL

CORSO GIACOMO MA

LLO

OLO

AG NE

T TEO T T I

LL’OR T RO A

V IA

I TA

T TA

GU BA

N P IE V IA SA

MA RG HER

V IA

A AN P

V IA

R VER

V IA S

P IAZZA SAN FEDELE

ZA P IAZO MEDA P F IL IP

III

P IE

O TR

O LE

PO NA

V IA

T’ SAN

DI ER P IAZZA BELG IO IO SO

P IAZZA DELLA SCALA

V IA

EV V IA SILV IO P ELLICO

IG SP

RE AND

B IG

PP SE G IU

’

V IA

SAN

V IA

I AR EG D AN

ITO

L DE

NT SA

P IR OS

V IA

E SP GO

V IA

A’

N SE

T P IE

V IA

E NT MO V IA

V IA

V IA PALEST R

F RA T E

AV O

V IA DE

EBENE

P IA ZZA C

V IA FA T

SO V

C OR

IT TO

UELE MAN RIO E

P IAZZA SAN BABILA

INDRO MONTANELLI P UBLIC GARDENS

V IA

LGIOJOSO BONAPARTE GARDENS

M IL

ANO

RINA A MA ARINA

V IA CAP

C OR SO V

IMO

I P UCC IN

BELLON

V IA SER

. PR V IA S

V IA M

OZAR

V IA M

ONF OR TE

V IA BORGOGNONA

V IA ANSELMO RONCHE

TT I

C ORSO M

N ASCAG

V IA P. M

100 meters

MUST SEE I VIA MONTE NAPOLEONE Home to convents until the 18th century, it was then the site of a Monte di PietÃ pawnbroker, after whom the street is named. Now it is the leading luxury street with 80-something fashion boutiques. II SAN BABILA This beautiful 13th-century basilica appears like a vision among the modern buildings that surround it. A pipe organ inspired by the German Baroque style is often played at concerts (p. 151). In Piazza San Babila III SOLAR DISC The giant sculpture resembling a sun from Aztec culture is a double rotating circle, standing 4.5 metres high and made from gilded bronze by the Italian artist Arnaldo Pomodoro in 1990. In Piazza Meda IV MUSEO POLDI PEZZOLI A walk amongst the canvases of Renaissance masters (Bellini, Mantegna, Botticelli), as well as 18th-century views of Venice by Francesco Guardi (p. 157). At Via Manzoni, 12

FASHION DISTRICT

THE OLYMPUS OF FASHION fashion, an added bonus while in pursuit of their all-time favourite labels. The birth of the Quadrilatero as a fashion district dates to the Fifties, when the sublimely elegant Biki, the Milanese lady whose dressmaking prowess transformed Maria Callas into a style icon, opened her atelier in Via Sant’Andrea, sparking the interest of international jetsetters. This Olympus of Italian fashion, of which Milan is the undisputed capital, is studded with showrooms and boutiques in this part of the city. Even the smallest of details are tended to, such as non-slip grates for the most stylish of heels. Glimpses of lovely aristocratic buildings are met with the soothing sight of year-round lush green courtyards.

The Fashion District is one of the most exclusive areas in Milan, a chic neighbourhood that is home to historic tailor’s shops, Italian and international fashion houses with their prêtà-porter collections and ateliers increasingly focused on made-to-measure services. Known as the “quadrilatero della moda”, meaning fashion square, the name comes from the four streets Via Manzoni, Via Monte Napoleone, Via della Spiga and Corso Venezia, which are connected to one another by a mundane crisscrossing of smaller streets. Via Monte Napoleone reigns supreme, hailed as one of the most famous shopping streets in the world. Lovers of beautiful things flock here to bask in the ambience and mood of 27

FASHION DISTRICT

MILANO FASHION WEEK Milan is the fashion capital of Italy, with the highest number of people employed in the Italian prêt-à-porter industry, which started right here. Today, the city is home to the headquarters of leading fashion houses, top magazines, the best photographers and directors, the most sophisticated boutiques and concept stores, as well as the most influential fashion schools. The National Chamber of Italian Fashion (Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana) coordinates and promotes the development of Italian fashion by organizing four Fashion Weeks every year, showcasing prêt-à-porter previews: Milano Moda Donna takes place in February and September, Milano Moda Uomo in January and June. Early in the morning cloistered venues and industrial sites are the perfect place to show off: every look is welcome from delicate organza dresses to sharp jumpsuits, from ultra-feminine to sporty outfits. A world of glamour with models of the moment, artists, collectors, buyers and journalists enliven the vibrant atmosphere of Milan’s Fashion Week, powered by fashion labels and the trendiest venues in town. Keep in mind that tickets cannot be purchased for the most coveted fashion shows such as Armani, Prada, Versace or Dolce & Gabbana.

FASHION DISTRICT

Prada Fall 2017 Fashion Show Backstage, Milan Fashion Week 29

FASHION DISTRICT

Via della Spiga 30

FASHION DISTRICT

Via Monte Napoleone 31

Piazza Meda

FASHION DISTRICT

Museo Poldi Pezzoli 33

ph. Ruggero Longoni

MUSEO BAGATTI VALSECCHI A singular showcase of the 19th-century taste for collecting, Museo Bagatti Valsecchi (p. 157) is an elegant house museum with a Neo-Renaissance ambience, with eclectic objects and priceless collections: tapestries, armoury, ceramics, furniture, paintings, ivory and glass items, scientific instruments and globes, as well as the famous Santa Giustina panel by Giovanni Bellini (1470). The museum hosts a number of events throughout the year, including concerts, theatre performances, talks with leading figures in the art world and temporary exhibitions ranging from the 15th-century Antonello da Messina to the French photographer Lartigue to drawings by the original Giampiero Bodino. Breathe in the past in the courtyard, one of the loveliest in Milan, paved in black and white cobblestones mosaics - accessible to the public from via GesĂš and via Santo Spirito - where you can sit down at one of the tables belonging to the delicatessen and bistro Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone (p. 217).

FASHION DISTRICT

Palazzo Bagatti Valsecchi 35

FASHION DISTRICT

HIGHLIGHTS est techniques (open on appointment only). In Via Gesù shaving lovers can enjoy a traditional Italian treatment at the barber’s corner in the Acqua di Parma boutique, while shopping lovers will enjoy a visit to the Stefano Ricci store, the historic Florentine fashion house for men’s tailored clothing, and Palazzina Brioni, the Roman brand founded in 1945 that between the Nineties and 2000s became symbolic of the unmistakable style of cinema’s James Bond. At Via Verri, Isaia (p. 171) is a classic Neapolitan tailor, evocative of the elegance of Italian men, while Pisa Orologeria (p. 187) - and so also his Rolex Boutique (p. 187) at Via Monte Napoleone - is the unmistakable shop for high quality watches and jewellery. A few blocks away in the courtyard of the men’s Dolce & Gabbana store at Corso Venezia, enter through the separate entrance for a stylish and classic Sicilian barber’s experience.

THE STREET PARLOUR: VIA DELLA SPIGA Connecting Corso Venezia to Via Manzoni, Via della Spiga is regarded as the street parlour of Milanese fashion. Thanks to the fact that it is almost entirely pedestrianized, is only 520 metres long and vaunts distinctive paving stones, the most famous fashion labels have opened stores here. More than seventy boutiques line the attractive street, including Dolce & Gabbana, Miu Miu, Tod’s, Alan Journo, Tiffany & Co. jewellery, design for collectors at the Nilufar gallery (p. 158) and handmade gloves by Sermoneta. GENTLEMEN’S WORLD An old-style shaving experience begins at Collezione Lorenzi in Via Monte Napoleone, 9. Founded by Giovanni Lorenzi in the Thirties, this privately owned museum, is home to a collection of more than 4,000 shaving instruments, from archaeological finds to the lat36

FASHION DISTRICT

by the Louis Vuitton holding. Sant Ambroeus (p. 216) bears the name of the patron saint of the city. Opened in 1936 as a chocolate shop, it is located under the loggias on Corso Matteotti. Elegantly furnished in the Art Deco style, today it is a bar, pastry shop and restaurant.

BASILICA OF SAN BABILA STYLE The world of Armani can be experienced in this 6,000-square meter building in Via Manzoni, 31, which was inaugurated in 2000. In this exciting Armani universe - from the Emporio clothing collections to flowers, design books, sweeties and coffee - you will find also Nobu (p. 200), one of Milan’s best Japanese restaurants. While nightlife lovers flock to Armani Privé, popular with the international crowd and young locals.

PALAZZO MORANDO This elegant noble palazzo dating to the 16th century, converted into the Rocaille style in the 18th century, is now the Museum of Costume, Fashion and Appearance (p. 158). This museum is a place where fashion is showcased in all its facets, with important collections of fabrics, clothing and accessories, comprising almost 6,000 items in 20-something rooms, from 18th-century working-class clothes to more recent haute-couture creations. On the first floor, you’ll find the painting gallery and a display of the original layout, shedding light on the 18th-century Milanese aristocracy’s taste in furniture and porcelain.

SWEET AND CHIC Two iconic addresses in Milanese pastry making in the Fashion District. Cova (p. 214) established by 1817 in Via Monte Napoleone, is one of the city’s oldest and most refined coffee shops. It’s where Giuseppe Verdi personally ordered his very own panettone. For almost 200 years it was owned by the same family, and nothing has changed since it was taken over 37

BRERA | CORSO COMO

IA G IO

P IAZZA 25 AP R ILE

BAST ION ID

LT A

V IA VARESE

VO DRO SAN LES

I P OR TA

NUOVA

V IA DE

C O VA

V IA SAN MARCO

I MA NZ ON SS AND RO ALE V IA

O VO NU

V IA

RI GA DE AN

E ON LE PO NA IGLI V IA B

P IET A’ IA MONT E DI

BO TANICAL GARDENS

V IA

F ORO BU ONAP AR

O RG

ERA

VASSO

RO VE T E

V IA DELL’ ORSO

P IAZZET TA DI BRERA

V IA BR

V IA P. NI V IA CUSA

V IA C IO

V IA

OL I

RT AP A

N UO

III

V IA RIV

T EL

V IA BRERA

F OR

CAS

MARC O

NO V IA SOLFERI

C ORSO

CASTELLO SF ORZESCO

V IA PALERM

V IA SAN

G IUEP P

E GAR

V IA SOLF

T UT

ER INO

ST A

V IA LEGNAN O

PARCO SEMP IONE

V IA PARIN I

CORSO DI P OR

LLA MOS

IA IBALD I

ELVEZ

V IA

V IALE

TA NUOVA

P IAZZA SANT ISSIMA TRIN I TA’

P IA ZZA

ICA

CORSO CO MO

SC O CR ISP I

V IA A

V IA

ET ONN

ASUB IO

V IA FR ANCE

AMANTE

V IA B

V IA P

V IA BR

CAN

P IAZZA V IA DE LN GAE AULE ORD NT I

V IA MONTELLO

COL IN I

V IA

AR I

SIO ERE

BA T T IST A NIC BRUNO

EP P E GIUS

V IA GIUS

ER R

V IA C

V IA GIO VANNI

SINA V IA MES

V IA GIORDANO

CAST ILL IA

IOR

CCIN I

SARE PROCA

V IA GIULIO CE

V IA FAR IN I

ERO IM I T E ZA C NT AL P IAZ NUME MO

ANO DE V IA GAET

G IU SE PP

LCH

V IA

A VO FAR G US TA

IRELLI

BA T T IST A P

NE V IA

ANT

F. T

V IA

T A’

V IA VIT

F IU ME

T OR

V IA D . MA

V IA

IO V

BAS

T IO

C O VA

P AN

LAZ

ZAR

F IL

P OR

VEN

V IA PALEST RO

P IA ZZA

VEN

ARINA

V IA M

NA TO

LLA DE

V IA

U’

S GE

ITO

P IR OS

V IA

NT SA

C OR

V IA

SAN

IG SP

E DR T’AN

V IA

T OZAR

V IA M

ALA ZZ I

LD I

V ILLA BELGIOJOSO BONAPARTE GARDENS SO ES

ISIA

O CA ST A

CAS

T UN

INDRO MONTANELLI P UBLIC GARDENS

CAV O

V IA F . TURA T I

CI T

N IN

UR A

LLA MOS

ICE

V IA

P IA Z RE DELL ZA PU A BB L IC A

V IA

V IA DE

EG OR

LEC

F EL

V IA

MA NU Z IO

V IA

SAN

IBE RA Z IO

VIT

V IA

DE LL

T OR

P IS

AN I

V IA GE NERA LE

V IA GIO VANNI

ORRIANI V IA NAP O T

V IA

MUST SEE

P IAZZA DUCA D’AOSTA

V IA

200 meters

I BRERA The distinguished painting gallery is situated in the former Palazzo Brera, the construction of which was begun by Francesco Maria Richini in 1651 (p. 151). On Via Brera II SAN SIMPLICIANO A basilica founded by Bishop Ambrose, the façade and its doorway remains from the Romanesque period. Beautiful to visit the two cloisters (p. 152). At Piazza San Simpliciano, 7 III PICCOLO TEATRO Milan’s first permanent theatre founded in 1947. It now has three locations: two are in Brera, Teatro Strehler, the main venue, and Teatro Studio Melato, in Via Rivoli, 6. The historic location is near the Castle, Piccolo Teatro Grassi (p. 163). At Via Rovello, 2 IV PIAZZA DEL CARMINE One of the loveliest squares in Milan. The church of the same name is much beloved by locals, notoriously for those always in a rush, who worship the statue of Sant’Espedito (p. 153).

BA T TA

Church of San Marco 42

BRERA | CORSO COMO

THAT (SLIGHTLY) SNOBBY CHARM from afar, a mixture of culture, elegance and a touch of eccentric creativity. The sizes return to human dimensions, separate from the rest of the city, where tension seems to slip away and people say hello to one another on the street. North of Brera, be swept away by the snobby chic charm of Corso Garibaldi and Corso Como, where you can find the most happening nightspots in Milan. The same area hosts the Fondazione Feltrinelli, a new urban cultural center opened in 2016 and designed by the architects Herzog & DeMeuron. A long glass building on Viale Pasubio, the Foundation is home to a bookshop, café, library and dedicated reading room.

Brera is the most bohemian of Milan’s neighbourhoods. The name comes from “braida” meaning uncultivated land. In the 19th century, the district became popular with artists who gravitated around the Accademia di Belle Arti (Via Brera, 28) and has changed face slowly since then. Today, Brera is a warren of streets where art galleries, fashion, furniture and design brands, and niche perfumers have opened their stores, close to the cultural hotspots. A stroll along Brera’s cobbled streets feels authentically “Milanese”. This is where, away from the international glamour of the Fashion District, old shop signs and historic coffeehouses speak of a style that hails 43

BRERA | CORSO COMO

PALAZZO DI BRERA Origins The palace stands on top of a 14th-century monastery of the Humiliati order, which later passed into Jesuit hands. Accademia di Brera In 1773, Empress Maria Theresa of Austria decided to appoint it as the home of the city’s most advanced cultural institutions: Accademia di Belle Arti (p. 151), Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense (p. 152), with more than one million books in four rooms, the Astronomical Observatory (p. 151) and the Botanical Gardens (p. 152). The Pinacoteca The painting and sculpture gallery (Pinacoteca) flanked the Accademia di Belle Arti for educational purposes. In 1801, when Napoleon began to suppress churches and monasteries, the Pinacoteca’s collections gained works of major importance. When Milan became the capital of the Kingdom of Italy (1805), bequests and acquisitions from Veneto, Emilia Romagna and Marche arrived at the gallery. Major works include Mantegna’s Dead Christ, Raphael’s Marriage of the Virgin, Caravaggio’s Supper at Emmaus and others by Carpaccio, Piero della Francesca, Titian, Tintoretto and Veronese (p. 160). Astronomical Museum The museum displays ancient scientific instruments belonging to the Astronomical Observatory (p. 151) and the University of Milan (p. 162).

aaaaaa aaaaaaa 45

BRERA | CORSO COMO

Via Ciovasso 46

BRERA | CORSO COMO

The new Milanâ€™s skyline 47

BRERA | CORSO COMO

CORSO COMO

Only 300 meters long, Corso Como is a pleasant pedestrianized walk, dotted with shops, bars and restaurants, leading as far as the futuristic Porta Nuova neighbourhood to the lively Piazza Gae Aulenti. The street is for shoppers looking for something more niche than Via Monte Napoleone. One store stands out in particular, 10 Corso Como: a relaxing and cosmopolitan concept store opened in the early Nineties in the courtyard of an apartment block. The store offers a selection of leading labels such as Courrèges, Comme des Garçons and Azzedine Alaïa, as well as up-and-coming designers; haute perfumes and limited-edition objects made for 10 Corso Como, adding a refined ensemble of spaces, with a gallery, café restaurant, bookshop stocked with art, design, fashion and architecture titles, a splendid outdoor terrace with varieties of plants and the 3Rooms Hotel, with just 3 rooms! 48

BRERA | CORSO COMO

aaaaaa Porta Garibaldi aaaaaaa 49

BRERA | CORSO COMO

HIGHLIGHTS BOTANICAL GARDENS In 1774, the Botanical Gardens (p. 152) gained their current appearance thanks to Maria Theresa of Austria. Today, here you can walk between the borders of sage - there are about 40 types - ferns, bulbs, herbs, vegetables and peonies or under the age-old trees, like linden, larch and the two ginkgo biloba, which arrived here in 1775 and whose leaf is now the symbol of the botanic garden. If you wish to finish the peaceful break on a romantic note, visit the adjacent Pinacoteca (p. 160), home to Hayezâ€™s The Kiss.

brands, like the extensive kitchen and bathroom showroom Boffi by Piero Lissoni and the design galleries Dilmos and Dimore, while just around the corner sits the stores Richard Ginori, Moroso, Pierluigi Ghianda and Dome, the interior design atelier where classic brands like Provasi are mixed with more contemporary pieces. The first Italian daily, Corriere della Sera (1876), was published here, now the building home to the headquarters of Loro Piana, the famous cashmere brand.

VIA SOLFERINO AND DESIGN DISTRICT Historic domain of artists and gallerists, Via Solferino has today been miraculously restored and gentrified, transformed into one of the most expensive streets in the city. Starving artists were replaced by the elites of furniture, design, architecture and top

SAN MARCO MARKET The tombone di San Marco, located where the current intersection between Via San Marco and Via Montebello sits, constituted the entrance point to the waters of the Naviglio Martesana canal in Milan and the connection with the canal system. Until the 1930s, the artificial lake of San Marco 50

BRERA | CORSO COMO

region in Italy. Eataly, thanks to the entrepreneurial genius of its founder Oscar Farinetti, has conquered the Boot, as well as Japan, New York and Dubai. The store vaunts stands of all kinds, from a butcher shop to a delicatessen, pizza to cheese, along with a number of restaurants ranging from fast food to the starred Alice (ph. +39 02 49497340), with dishes by chef Viviana Varese. Incredibly popular, especially on the weekend. Open every day from 10 am to midnight.

extended to the church of the same name, which was one of the gates to the city. Paved over in the 1950s, today an underground river flows through the area, even if those nostalgic for the water ways would like to bring the city back to its original appearance. Today, along Via San Marco, every Monday and Thursday there is an upscale version of a street market open from 7.30 am to 2 pm. Youâ€™ll find a bit of everything: flowers and fruits mixed with Prada and Dolce & Gabbana shoes and cashmere sweaters, as well as roast chicken and ceramics. A beautiful mix! On Thursday, there are a few stalls from the famous Forte dei Marmi market.

PROCACCI The historic delicatessen Procacci has arrived in Milan, at Corso Garibaldi, 79 after the acquisition by the Marchesi Antinori family, long synonymous with excellent wines and who have opened a bistro in Corso Garibaldi, 79. Itâ€™s not exactly a restaurant but rather a highend delicatessen, with a small kitchen that seats 50 and an outdoor area on the sidewalk.

EATALY Teatro Smeraldo, once a famous musical theatre, has been transformed into a food megastore (p. 216), 3,500 square meters across multiple levels, with products coming from every 51

DUOMO

I AN ZON

P IAZZA BELGIOIOSO

P IAZZA DELLA SCALA

INO T OR V IA

V IA VALP ETROSA

V IA ZEC CA VECC H

TA SAN V IA

P IAZZA DUOMO

ANT ON IO

IN I

NE RIN

V IA SANT’

L RE

E EAL ZO R ALAZ

ST RA CCH

RA BA

V IA

P IAZZA DIAZ

V IA

I BOLD RC IM A IA V

V IA

MA UR IL

III

V IA P

SAN

V IA G. MAZZIN I

TO ET CCH BO

DE LL’A MB RO SIA NA

IA V IA

V IA

I AR AD SP

V IA

LLO

IC I

ARIN

V IA

AR I

T. M

V IA

AR M

NE AG

V IA

I DE ZZA T I P IA ERCAN M

OLO

V IA

P IAZZA AFFARI

V IA UGO FOSCOLO

AN P A

V IA GAE

V IA S

IC I

NT DA

P. ZZA SAN FEDELE

V IA G. BERCHET

GR I ANO NE

HOE PL

F ILI

V IA

R CLE

HER

I TA

V IA

V IA V IA S. PROSP ERO

V IA MERAV IG

A. M

DI ER G. V

ITO

O SSI

O OLE T T

V IA BR

EI B V IA D

. BO V IA A

V IA

V IA DEL LAURO

RI GA DE N A V IA

MA RG

AN I

V IA CUS

D I P IE TA’

V IA

V IA MONTE

V IA DELL’ORSO

V IA

E DR T’AN

SAN

V IA G BA

N MO

B IG

V IA

E CORSO GIAC OMO MAT TEO T T

RT O

O ALL’O P IE T R

V IA S.

LE PO NA

RR . VE

P V IA

P. ZZA IPP O MEDA

MUST SEE

’

P IAZZA SAN BABILA L P. ZZA DE LIBER T Y

SO V

V IA D

EL IC

E CA

ER SA

V IA F

VALL

OT T

AS IGN

ORZ

DE LL

F. S F

AM ERG

V IA B

P. ZZA SANT O STEFANO

ORA

LAR

V IA

V IA VERZIERE

V IA

LAR G

P.IAZZA F ONTANA

IER I

C OR

URIN

EUR OP

C OR

LE NUE EMA T ORIO

IN I

100 meters

I PALAZZO REALE It was the city’s center of power beginning in the 13th century, and today it’s the top spot for cultural offerings, with a packed calendar of exhibitions (p. 159). At Piazza Duomo, 12 II PINACOTECA AMBROSIANA Established in 1618 after Cardinal Borromeo’s bequeathal of statues and paintings. Among the awe-inspiring works are Leonardo’s Portrait of a Musician and Caravaggio’s Basket of Fruit (p. 160). At Piazza Pio XI, 2 III SANTA MARIA PRESSO SAN SATIRO Built in two phases, the church of Santa Maria dates to 1486. Bramante was responsible for the architecture, creating a unique trompe-l’oeil choir (p. 153). At Via Torino, 17/19 IV VIA SPADARI A charming street, home to historic food shops: Noberasco 1908 for dried fruits, Pescheria Spadari, Peck and Giovanni Galli for marron glacé.

Piazza dei Mercanti 56

DUOMO

GOTHIC TREASURES AND MUSEUMS important museums are right next to it: the Cathedral Museum, Palazzo Reale, Museo del Novecento, the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, which houses the world’s largest collection of Leonardo’s drawings, Palazzo della Ragione, exclusively dedicated to photography exhibitions, the Teatro alla Scala Museum and the Gallerie d’Italia. Only the majestic Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, inaugurated in 1867, can compete with the cathedral’s beauty. The cathedral square hosts classical and pop music concerts alternated with other events, enthusiastically attended by local residents who re-energize the space, which has been blending the sacred and profane for more than six hundred years.

Milan’s centre has a particular kind of charm. Severe and imposing at first glance, it unfolds in an unexpected way, with courtyards lined with climbing vines and fanciful Art Nouveau architecture. The heart of the neighbourhood is Europe’s most extraordinary cathedral. With its monumental beauty, carved in marble, it has become the symbol of the city. Built over five centuries, the Duomo (Milan’s cathedral) is the third largest Catholic church in the world in terms of surface area, after St. Peter’s in Rome and the cathedral of Seville. Work on the Duomo, began in 1386, under the duchy of Gian Galeazzo Visconti, and was completed over five centuries later. The city’s most 57

DUOMO

THE DUOMO The spires The cathedralâ€™s 135 spires are elaborately ornamented, dense in statues of all sizes (there are more than 1,800 of them). Most of the spires are 17 meters high. The sculptures In the cathedral there are around 3,400 statues and more than 700 figures included in the marble reliefs. The statuary has its own claim to fame: for six centuries, the cathedral site continuously produced statues in line with the cultural climate of every significant moment in history. The Madonnina Protectress symbol of the Milanese people, the Madonnina is made of embossed and gilded copper sheets, supported by a frame now made of stainless steel. It was erected on the cathedralâ€™s main spire in 1774. Stained glass windows The original 14th-century coloured windows were replaced with stained glass in 1463. An interesting tidbit: in 1939, all the windows were removed and placed in a basement to protect them from bombings. It was only after World War II that work on the facadeâ€™s stained glass windows proceeded. An activity Stroll along the roof: on the north side, a ladder and a lift lead upwards. The panoramic view extends over the whole city, reaching as far as the Alps (p. 154).

DUOMO

The cathedralâ€™s spires 59

DUOMO

Above, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Below, Piazza Duomo 60

DUOMO

Faรงade of the Duomo 61

DUOMO

GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II Designed by Giuseppe Mengoni, this shopping center’s foundation stone was laid in 1865 by Vittorio Emanuele II, hence its name. Work on the building did not end until 1876, however. From its inception, the Galleria was a meeting place for the Milanese bourgeois, earning it the nickname Milan’s living room. It has a cross plan with an octagonal iron and glass roof, 47 metres high. The luxurious Neo-Renaissance architecture and the decorations inside are dizzying, transporting the imagination to another era. The visitor’s gaze is drawn toward the floor mosaics, which represent the coats of arms of Rome, Florence, Turin and Milan; then the eye seeks out the shop displays and halls, eventually focusing on the iron and glass windows of the roof. Alongside some of the city’s historic cafes, inside the gallery you’ll find boutiques of the world’s great fashion houses, including Prada, which opened its first glove and travel equipment shop here in 1913, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Armani and Versace. The Rizzoli bookshop is a mandatory stop: this literary corner has attracted the attention of the international press.The gallery’s recent restoration - completed for Expo 2015 - has lent it the elegant worldliness of a lost time (p. 155).

DUOMO

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 63

DUOMO

TEATRO ALLA SCALA The most famous opera house in the world, with an audience as critical as it is appreciative, the theatre made its name in Milanâ€™s history through Giuseppe Verdi, Arturo Toscanini and Maria Callas, who was discovered here in 1955. Inaugurated in 1778 and renowned since then for its acoustics, the theatre has numerous architectural quirks, such as a wooden vault, as a means of natural resonance, and the reduced size of the stage columns, implemented by Giuseppe Piermarini, who designed it. The theatreâ€™s selection of operas, symphonies and ballets continues to be among the best internationally for its high-caliber artists. The La Scala season officially opens each year with an opera on December 7, the feast day of St. Ambrose, patron saint of the city. The inaugural evening is the high-society event of the year, with strict codes of elegance put in place for the Gala event (p. 163). 64

DUOMO

Teatro alla Scala main hall 65

DUOMO

L.O.V.E. the marble sculpture by Maurizio Cattelan 66

DUOMO

MUSEO DEL NOVECENTO

Among the newest museums in the city, it was opened in 2010 in Palazzo dellâ€™Arengario. The museum (p. 157) hosts more than 400 works mostly by Italian artists of the 20th century. Boccioni, De Chirico, Morandi, Balla, Severini, Depero and Marinetti are displayed chronologically, from Futurism to Arte Povera, represented here by Giovanni Anselmo. The room on the top floor is worth a visit, where visitors can find a neon by Lucio Fontana, Luce Spaziale, a spectacular installation that deserves to be seen under the soft light of sundown. The restructuring by Italo Rota and Fabio Fornasari distributes the rooms through a sort of internal spiral, a bit like the Guggenheim, recalling a tribute to the great Frank Lloyd Wright. The Museo del Novecento provides an Art Deco break: on the third floor in the Giacomo Arengario restaurant (p. 205), eat in the outdoor seating area, under the loggia overlooking Piazza del Duomo. 67

DUOMO

HIGHLIGHTS arcades were redesigned at the dawn of Italian unification: they form an eye-catching line-up, offering protection whatever the weather.

DUOMO FROM ON HIGH Two itineraries take you high above the ground, offering views of the city from the top. To reach the Cathedral’s terrace (p. 153), you may climb the 165 steps up a spiral staircase or take the elevator with a small fee charge (unfortunately you’ll have to wait in line). Upon arrival, you can walk freely around the entire roof to enjoy a spectacular panorama. Highline Galleria (p. 156) is a newly opened itinerary, offering daily the chance to stroll along the roofs of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele via a walkway 250 meters long.

PASTICCERIA MARCHESI IN GALLERIA Pasticceria Marchesi (p. 215) opened its third space in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in September 2016, following its acquisition by the Prada group - its historic shop has been in Via Santa Maria alla Porta since 1824. With a pastel décor and a tearoom for sweet and savoury breakfasts, it serves the finest mignon cakes in Milan, as well as sugar-dusted sweets, bonbons and pralines. Specialities include the Aurora cake, Truffet cake and profiteroles. Pasticceria Marchesi in Galleria serves a lunch menu featuring antipasti, pasta and meat courses in addition to covering the aperitivo hour. Both are important times of the day for this elegant location.

CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE II The Corso, a strip connecting Piazza Duomo and Piazza San Babila, is a pedestrian thoroughfare dotted with fashion and accessory boutiques. Shopping options here are across the board and are more accessible than what is offered on Via Monte Napoleone. The 68

DUOMO

floor. The 7th floor terrace looks straight at the spires of the cathedral, where you can choose your meal from different restaurants, from the traditional Italian cuisine to a pizza at mozzarella bar.

THE FINANCIAL DISTRICT The most recent addition to Piazza Affari is L.O.V.E., a 2010 work by Maurizio Cattelan, whose acronym stands for Libertà (freedom), Odio (hate), Vendetta (revenge) and Eternità (eternity). The marble sculpture shows a hand making a Fascist salute, each of the fingers made to look as if they were eroded by time - except for the middle finger. The sculpture leaves no room for doubt: it’s an act of irreverence toward both the idea of Fascism and the world of finance, embodied by Palazzo Mezzanotte, headquarters of Milan’s stock exchange since 1932.

GALLERIE D’ITALIA A museum, Gallerie d’Italia (p. 155), spread across three jewels of Milanese aristocratic architecture. At Palazzo Anguissola and Palazzo Brentani, you’ll find 19th century masterpieces from Canova to Boccioni, Hayez to Segantini. The third building, Palazzo Beltrami, is home to 20th-century art and hosts themed exhibitions. The restructuring by the architect De Lucchi makes a stop here worthwhile, with the vault of this ex-bank opened for visits to the public, housing another 500 paintings. A visit here can be an enchanting experience not only on occasion of temporary exhibition, but also to admire rooms made of stucco and crystal chandeliers.

LA RINASCENTE At La Rinascente (p. 162), the most elegant department store, you’ll find major fashion, accessories and jewellery brands, a seemingly boundless beauty department, a design supermarket on the basement floor and a gourmet paradise, The Food Market, on the top 69

PORTA VENEZIA | GARIBALDI REPUBBLICA

TA NUO VA

P IS AN I T OR VIT V IA

AN IN

O SC O VA

T A’

AST A

LDI

F IU ME

INDRO MONTANELLI P UBLIC GARDENS

V IA PALESTRO

III

P IA ZZA

CAV

CI T

P. C

IG SP

VEN

EZ IA

L DE V IA

SS V IA DE AND I G IARD IN I RO MA NZ ON I

V IA FA T EB V IA DE ENEF RA T E LL LL’ANN UNC IA I TA

O UR

BELLO

ALE

ACC IO

V IA

V IA MONTE

V IA BRERA

NT V IA P O

NERA LE G

P IAZZA DELLA REP UBBLICA

C OR SO

. FARA

SAN

LLA M

V IA

C ORSO

NT E

V IA DE V IA P ALER

LEI

AL I

G. G V IA

V IA PAR IN I

G. GAR

IBALD

V IA SOL

O SC O VA

V IA G. B. P IR

LLA M

CORSO D I P

F ERIN O

I D I P OR

V IA

OR TA NUOV A

BAS T ION

DE LLA LIB ER AZIO NE

V IA D AN IE L

P IAZZA XXV AP R ILE

ISP I

V IA VARESE

. V OL V IA A

V IA DE

V IA

C ORSO C OM O

SIO ERE

ASUB IO

V IA F. CR

V IA

V IA GE

P IAZZA GAE AULENT I

V IA C

V IA P

ELLI

IO IA

AR I

V IA F . F IL

ER R

IOR RE G

G. F

ME LCH

V IA FAR IN I

V IA

OZAR

V IA M

MUST SEE

P IAZZA DUCA D’AOSTA

V IA

ELL O MA RC

O SC

R. B

OV I

INO AIR ES OS C OR SO

L. P

ALA ZZ I

V IA

LEC

V IA

BU EN

F. CA SA T UN T I ISIA

V IA

ALE SS

V IA

T AD

V IA

EG OR

NE DE T

V IA

AND RO

SAN

AR L

RIAN I V IA NAP O T OR

V IA

D. S C

RE G IN

V IA LZO

IO VA NN A

MBR V IA LA

I V IA F. BELLO T T I

200 meters

V IA CARLO P OERIO

V IALE LUIG I MAJNO

V IALE P IAVE

IR T OR

V IA G. S

I NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM The oldest city museum in Milan, it is one of Europe’s most important natural history museums (p. 158). At Corso Venezia, 55 II ULRICO HOEPLI PLANETARIUM The Planetarium vaunts paintings of the constellations on its facade. Inside, look up at the sky from the 300 moving armchairs across a large dome (p. 162). At Corso Venezia, 57 III GAM - GALLERY OF MODERN ART The GAM has been in the Milan’s Villa Reale since 1920. Its halls display Francesco Hayez, Segantini, Canova and Medardo Rosso, plus temporary shows (p. 155). At Via Palestro, 16 IV PAC The Pavilion of Contemporary Art (PAC), erected in the Fifties, is a space dedicated to contemporary art, ranging from African artists to performance artists like Marina Abramovic (p. 159). At Via Palestro, 14

Above, Villa Reale Below, Casa Galimberti at Via Malpighi 74

PORTA VENEZIA | GARIBALDI | REPUBBLICA

CHIC INFLUENCES Pavilion of Contemporary Art. Lastly, the Planetarium, designed by Pietro Portaluppi in 1930, is on the edge of the gardens, where Corso Venezia joins Corso Buenos Aires, a proper Grand Boulevard, brimming with ultra-pop stores. The fast pace of a young metropolis brings these once-austere streets to life. The height of the skyline changes swiftly along the Porta Nuova area, with its futuristic center in Piazza Gae Aulenti, home to the tallest skyscraper in Italy. Opened in 2012 and named after the prolific Italian architect, the piazza has a fountain at its center and is lined with shops, bars and restaurants. During the Christmas Season an ice-skating rink is installed and it becomes a joyful attraction for families and friends.

Having crossed the threshold of the ancient Eastern Gate, today Porta Venezia leads into a neighbourhood with a fascinating balance between the past and present. Itâ€™s a place where antiques shops and old bookstores go hand-in-hand with fashion boutiques and multi-ethnic businesses. In the maze of streets between via Mozart and via Cappuccini, Art Nouveau parades in our line of sight, displaying faĂ§ades adorned with decorative tiles and flower motifs. A few streets away, greenery stretches out as far as the eye can see at the Indro Montanelli public gardens, as well as the imposing Natural History Museum. Hidden between the public gardens and the Villa Reale park, you can find the Gallery of Modern Art and the adjacent 75

PORTA VENEZIA | GARIBALDI | REPUBBLICA

MILANO CENTRAL STATION Milan Central Station, majestic and impressive, is perhaps the most famous example of crossover architecture in Italy, a combination of eclecticism, Liberty and Fascist rationalism. The station’s design was entrusted to Florentine architect Ulisse Stacchini in 1912, but it was only opened in 1931 because of having to move the old station in Piazza della Repubblica, resulting in an urban expansion plan based on the new transport hub. The main structure has three large openings that, upon closer inspection, resemble the design used for Roman baths, with two orders at the front, the first supported by majestic columns and the second, on which allegorical symbols feature with leonine protomes, culminating in two monumental winged horses representing Progress. Most of the trains are high-speed with connections to Turin, Venice, Florence, Rome and Naples or to Switzerland and France. Not far from the station, still in Piazza Duca d’Aosta, stands the Pirelli Tower (p. 160), a skyscraper designed by Giò Ponti and Pier Luigi Nervi, one of the most beautiful buildings in the city, affectionately called “il Pirellone” by the locals.

PORTA VENEZIA | GARIBALDI | REPUBBLICA

Faรงade of the Central Station 77

PORTA VENEZIA | GARIBALDI | REPUBBLICA

Palazzo Dugnani at Indro Montanelli Public Gardens 78

PORTA VENEZIA | GARIBALDI | REPUBBLICA

VILLA NECCHI CAMPIGLIO

A rationalist architectural gem stands in the quietest corner of central Milan. Villa Necchi Campiglio (p. 162) was designed and furnished in the mid-Thirties by architect Pietro Portaluppi for the Necchi Campiglio family, Lombard industrialists who had made their fortune from sewing machines. A lush garden with the shade of tall magnolia trees, an outdoor pool and tennis court all provide the backdrop for a little café-restaurant. Featured in Luca Guadagnino’s film “I Am Love” starring Tilda Swinton, today Villa Necchi is managed by FAI (the fund for the Italian environment) and is open to the public from Wednesday to Sunday, 10 am to 6 pm for guided tours only. Access to the gardens is free, as too is entry to the café. 80

PORTA VENEZIA | GARIBALDI | REPUBBLICA

Villa Necchi Campiglioâ€™s interiors 81

PORTA VENEZIA | GARIBALDI | REPUBBLICA

HIGHLIGHTS cini, 8. At via dei Cappuccini, 3, a flock of pink flamingos roams the gardens of Villa Invernizzi. Just outside the city walls, at via Malpighi, 3 Casa Galimberti (1905) is entirely adorned in decorative tiles. At number 12 along the same street stands Casa Guazzoni. The Liberty building of the Cinema Dumont is located at via Frisi, 2-4. Today, the atrium is home to the Public Library Venezia (p. 160). Piazza Oberdan conceals a little Art Déco gem: Albergo Diurno Venezia (p. 151) designed by Portaluppi. It belongs to FAI (the fund for the Italian environment), which organizes visits.

INDRO MONTANELLI PUBLIC GARDENS They were created at the end of the eighteenth century in the French style. Nature reigns supreme here, alongside the major buildings situated in the park, including Palazzo Dugnani, the Natural History Museum (p. 158) and the Ulrico Hoepli Planetarium (p. 162). There are four children’s playgrounds. You can run along all of the park’s paths or use the nearly two-kilometer running route. The “Orticola” show is held here every May, for a 3-day festival, presenting the excellence of flower-growing and nursery gardening.

LUBAR AT GAM The GAM Gallery of Modern Art (p. 155) has been located in the 18th-century Villa Reale since 1920. Its halls display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions, a dip into the works of the great figures of modern art from masterpieces by Antonio Canova, Francesco

LIBERTY QUARTER In the footsteps of the Belle Époque, we begin at Palazzo Castiglioni, at Corso Venezia, 47-49, Milan’s first Liberty-style building. Cross the street and you’ll find other Liberty edifices like Casa Berri-Meregalli, at via dei Cappuc82

PORTA VENEZIA | GARIBALDI | REPUBBLICA

Hayez, and Medardo Rosso. The new café LùBar is like a modern orangery nestled in the Villa Reale’s southern portico. Large windows, cacti and palms embellish the space: the food by the Bonaccorsi brothers, with typical Sicilian products, will make you hesitate even at breakfast time between ricotta-filled cannoli or a granite of fruit and almond milk.

seum’s exhibition spaces. Also on display are original pieces of beautiful vintage furniture, such as a table designed by Piero Portaluppi, as well as items bought after the donation. These include the dining room designed by Mario Sironi and presented at the 6th Triennale di Milano in 1936, and the furniture for the room designed by Gino Levi Montalcini in 1950.

FUTURISM AND THE FIFTIES: BOSCHI DI STEFANO HOUSE MUSEUM The history of this house museum (p. 152), which opened in 2003, is a love story above all else between Antonio Boschi and his wife Marieda Di Stefano. But it is also a tangible testimony to the couple’s shared passion for art. The collection is one of the most important in Italian art history, ranging from the first decade of the 1900s to the late 1960s. About 300 of the 2,000 works of art collected by the couple are on show in the house mu-

PORTA NUOVA Milan’s skyline was redrawn by the Porta Nuova area, the city’s most contemporary quarter, is home, at Piazza Gae Aulenti 3, to the Torre Unicredit designed by Cesar Pelli. Not too far away, the award-winning residential buildings designed by Stefano Boeri are attention-grabbing: the two innovative towers, known as the Vertical Forest (p. 162), are standing side-by-side almost entirely covered in greenery, counting 11,000 plants, 5,000 scrubs and 900 tall trees. 83

THE CASTLE | SEMPIONE MAGENTA

E IAV LL I

V IA L. AR

V IA

MB TE

AR DI

P AF IAZZ V IA FARI A S. M . AL LA

AN V I

G.B

. V IC

T TO

O V IA L

ANZ O

V IA

OLO N

V IA

V IA A . DE

V IA S

V IA G . CARD UCCI

T OGN

VIA SAN M ICHELE D EL CARS O VIALE DI P ORTA VE RCELLIN A

CORSO MAGENTA

ZU GN A

V IA

P AP

IN I AN O

V IA

III

I CCH NE

LLO

V. L.

V IA

CAS

ZZA P IA

P. ZZA BARACLE CA

20 V IA

T SE

ED MO

ND O

CENZO SAN V IN

DE AM I

C IS

V IA A

SOLA

V IA CIRCO

PO RT

NTâ€™OR V IA SA

CORSO DI P ORTA T ICINESE

INO

IO S T O

A GN

ER EV

MA ALE

RT AP A ON

L IO

G. R

OB F OR

PARCO SEMP IONE

I EM

V IA

V IC

. GAR IBA LD I

PA M.

V IA

LLA

C ORSO G

CH MA

V. M

. PA

SE P IA MP ZZ IO N A E

. CANOVA V IA A

I XX III IO VANN P. ZZA G

V IA

ELVEZ

V IA

ERCELLI

V IALE

NO GA

V IA

O INT QU I GO LP IN R LA A

I V AN IA G .B

V IA LEGNAN

V IA

RT BE

T V IA

INO

EM AN IN

MUST SEE V IA MONTE

V IA FA T

V IA D AN IE L

BELLO

EBEN

EF RA T

ZZA P IA V O UR CA

ELL I

V IA SE

P D IAZZ SC ELLA A ALA

V IA

ALE

SS AND RO M

AN ZON

TO P IG NA LLA S DE V IA

EUR OP A SO

AUG UST O

C OR RS

VIA

GARDENS OF GUASTALLA SAN BARNABA

LAR

ORZ

I TAL IA

V IA

LAR

P IAZZADO ARMAIANZ D

A P.ZZSORI M IS

C ORSO

F. S F

IC I

C OR

LE NUE EMA

MA NA

V IA

V IA GIUSEPP E MAZZ IN I

ORIO VIT T

200 meters

I SANTA MARIA DELLE GRAZIE A masterpiece of religious architecture, this church is famous for its dome designed by Bramante and because the adjacent ex-refectory is home to the Last Supper (p. 156). At Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie, 2 II ROMAN AMPHITHEATER It was the same size as the Arena di Verona. What remains is found in the midst of an almost unknown park (p. 160). At Via de Amicis, 17 III SANT’AMBROGIO Founded in the 4th century, the basilica is one of oldest churches in the city, a striking example of Romanesque architecture (p. 152). At Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, 15 IV SAN MAURIZIO AL MONASTERO MAGGIORE All the walls and ceilings were painted by Bernardino Luini, who worked in the ancient church between 1522 and 1529, depicting episodes of the Bible. A triumph of frescoes (p. 153). At Corso Magenta, 13

Basilica of Santâ€™Ambrogio 88

THE CASTLE | SEMPIONE | MAGENTA

CONSERVATIVE ALLURE today it houses a large share of the city’s art and archaeological collections, with one special work in particular: the Rondanini Pietà the last work by Michelangelo Buonarroti. Behind the castle, as far as the Napoleonic Arco della Pace, views stretch out over Parco Sempione, the largest park in the city centre, where Milanesi hang out, have fun and enjoy sports. The Triennale preserves and drives the dignified breeze of practical Italian design, which began its life in Milan and continues to lead the world every year in April with the annual Milano Design Week appointment. The Triennale exhibition spaces become the focal point of a myriad of events and parties for all the international visitors.

Milan has none of the conservative beauty of other Italian cities, which often proves a restriction for residents. Exploring it by following your heart, devoid of destination, leads to extraordinary moments of discovery. In this elegant residential neighbourhood with a Parisian soul, the laidback fabric of neoclassical buildings and Liberty-style villas along wide tree-lined avenues conceals two unique treasures: Sant’Ambrogio, the most important church in Milan after the Cathedral, and Leonardo da Vinci’s the Last Supper, in the monastery of the Basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Under the duchy of Ludovico Sforza, the monumental Castello Sforzesco was home to one of the most refined Renaissance courts in the world; 89

THE CASTLE | SEMPIONE | MAGENTA

Torre Branca 90

THE CASTLE | SEMPIONE | MAGENTA

Triennale garden 91

THE CASTLE | SEMPIONE | MAGENTA

THE LAST SUPPER

Leonardo da Vinciâ€™s Last Supper (p. 156), frescoed from 1495-97 on the commission of Ludovico Sforza in the refectory of the Dominican monastery of the Basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie, was immediately hailed by Leonardoâ€™s contemporaries as the cornerstone of Renaissance art. Leonardo, who was not fond of frescoing, chose to paint on the walls of the refectory using a technique similar to painting on canvas. The aim was to achieve those light effects so dear to him, but it proved incompatible with the humidity of the space, given its vicinity to the kitchens, bewildering experts and restorers until the final epic restoration that ended in 1999. Today, the masterpiece requires special conditions to preserve it, with strict entrance procedures for visitors, in groups of maximum 25 for 15 minutes. 92

THE CASTLE | SEMPIONE | MAGENTA

Basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie 93

THE CASTLE | SEMPIONE | MAGENTA

Arco della Pace 94

THE CASTLE | SEMPIONE | MAGENTA

Above, Parco Sempione Below, the Triennaleâ€™s terrace 95

THE CASTLE | SEMPIONE | MAGENTA

CASTELLO SFORZESCO It was originally a fortress that Gian Galeazzo Visconti had built in the 15th century. One hundred years later, Francesco Sforza made it the noble residence after he took possession of Milan. Ludovico Sforza was next, founding one of Europe’s most sophisticated courts, calling upon the best artists of the time to adorn the castle, including the likes of Leonardo da Vinci and Filarete. The sprawling building - Piazza d’Armi, a set of courtyards (Corte Ducale, Corte della Rocchetta), a series of towers, crenellated walls and trenches - was downgraded to military use for centuries, until the city converted it into a unique museum complex, divided into the Civic Museums, which host permanent exhibitions and a rich program of temporary art exhibitions and events (p. 153). Museum of Ancient Art (p. 157) Egyptian Museum (p. 154) Prehistory and Protohistory Museum (p. 160) Museum of Applied Arts (p. 157) Museum of Musical Instruments (p. 158) Museum of Furniture and Wooden Sculptures (p. 158) Biblioteca Trivulziana (p. 152) Pinacoteca (p. 160) Rondanini Pietà (p. 159): Michelangelo’s last unfinished work (1564) with Christ and the Virgin Mary melded in a metaphysical embrace. The new outfitting by Michele De Lucchi with anti-seismic base is located in the Spanish hospital at the Castello Sforzesco.

THE CASTLE | SEMPIONE | MAGENTA

Castello Sforzesco 97

THE CASTLE | SEMPIONE | MAGENTA

Palazzo dellâ€™Arte home of La Triennale 98

THE CASTLE | SEMPIONE | MAGENTA

Triennale Design Museum 99

THE CASTLE | SEMPIONE | MAGENTA

HIGHLIGHTS PARCO SEMPIONE Thirty-eight hectares of greenery extend behind: English lawns, paths, copses, lakes and areas dedicated to sport. It is where the city’s first running trail was introduced: 3.2 kilometers long, well-marked with “CorriMi” red and white signs every five hundred meters. The route starts at the entrance to the Arena in via Byron, heads towards the Arco della Pace and continues along the gravel road that leads to the Triennale gardens. A complete lap around the Castle takes you back to where you started. Enjoy the clean morning air and discover corners of the park that usually go unnoticed: admire the original Aquarium built in 1906, the Torre Branca (p. 162) by Gio Ponti (1933), the metaphysical Teatro di Burri (1973), recently brought back to life, and De Chirico’s newly vibrant Mysterious Baths fountain (1973).

TRIENNALE AND DESIGN MUSEUM Situated in Parco Sempione, Palazzo dell’Arte has housed La Triennale (p. 156) since 1933, founded to promote design and applied arts with international shows. Today it is home to the Triennale Design Museum (p. 161), with exhibitions that retraces the history of iconic objects crafted in Italy, tackling issues linked to design and production. The Triennale is a vibrant space, offering a wide range of activities, a theatre, a bookshop and design-oriented vitrine, a great place for refreshments at the two bars (one of which is outside in the garden) and a restaurant with views of the park. SOPHISTICATED SHOPPING: RAW A “cabinet of curiosities” with a range of unusual furniture and objects, rich in charm, ancient and modern: old banners, birdcages, pieces of furniture 100

THE CASTLE | SEMPIONE | MAGENTA

that blend with Nordic and natural settings; here inside there is also a Pineider shop. This is what Paolo Badesco calls his new store, recently opened in an elegant Liberty-style palace at Corso Magenta, 10.

photography, cinema, music, poetry, theatre and dance. The majestic ballroom, the Hall of Mirrors, with frescoes and decorations dating to the mid1700s, is alone worth the visit. Keep an eye on the rich calendar of events.

CASA DEGLI ATELLANI AND LEONARDO’S VINEYARD Only recently discovered in the gardens of Casa degli Atellani (p. 153), a Renaissance residence of incredible beauty in front of Santa Maria delle Grazie, the Leonardo da Vinci vineyard has been replanted with cuttings from the Malvasia di Candia, which produced a wine popular with connoisseurs of the time. The house and gardens are gems and are open to visitors every day.

ROSSANA ORLANDI A BIT OF MILANESE TASTE A boutique, art gallery, atelier, bar and restaurant with a country chic menu, at Via Matteo Bandello 14/16. Style and taste are the buzzwords of this design pantheon, which serves up objects, home accessories and state-of-theart lighting, as well as jewellery and clothing. Refined Milanese Rossana Orlandi is the queen of this realm, which leads off a delightful courtyard. During Design Week the courtyard becomes “the place to be”, a meeting space for the press, designers, critics and the myriad talent discovered by the hostess (including Tom Dixon, and Nacho Carbonell).

PALAZZO LITTA The Palazzo Litta Cultura (p. 159) was opened in the magnificent Baroque Palazzo Arese-Litta, built in 1642, a new cultural space that blends art, design, 101

PORTA TICINESE NAVIGLI | TORTONA

CAL IF IA

P AP

IN I AN O A V ON

IO NZ NU â€™AN G. D LE V IA

ERA

V IA LE G

V OGH

DHA T EN

V IA V IGEVANO

OR IZ

ANDE IO GR AV IGL N IA ALZA INESE

IV A R T ON

ALZAIA NAV IGLIO PAVE SE

V IA

VAL

O V IA T

ALZAIA

V IA

V IA L ANZ ONE ED MO ND OD EA MI C IS O Z N CE N I V AN V IALE S CERO O V IA CAL VA NO GE O RS CO

V IA

OLO

V IA

. SOL V IA A

V IA

V IA S

AV ON

V IA S

ZU GN A

ARI

RI SOLA

. V IA A

V IC

T A T IC I P OR RIP A D R. BADEN-P OWELL GARDEN

ANDE L IO GR

NAV IG

SI ORE . V ILL V IA E

V IALE G. SEGANT IN I

V IN

ORN

V IA G. BORSI

V IAL

E CA SSA L

V IA NT SA R DE AN

IO SF ORZA

V IALE LIGURIA

V IA ASCAN

V IA T O

V IA LA SP EZIA

V IA

ZO CEN

A F OP P

V IA

V IA D CARAVAGEL G IO

V IA G. B ON I

V IA

V IA G. WASHINGT ON

T IS

DON LUIGI GIUSSANI GARDENS

PARCO COLA DI RIENZO ZA P IAZ L I NAP O

V IA

PARCO DI DEZZA

T T OR

G IA NB

AN V I

V IA

AR E

V IA S

V IA GIUSEPP E MAZZIN I

SOLA

NT ’ OR V IA SA

V IA

NO T ON

PARC O DELLE BASILICHE GARDENS

CORSO I TAL IA

CORSO DI P ORTA T ICINESE

VIALE G. G ALEAZZO

III

V IAL

DI IBAL

200 meters

V IA CARLO BAZZI

V IA G. MEDA

CORSO SAN GO T

TARDO

V IA P. CUS T ODI

O TABACCHI

V IA ODOARD

MUST SEE I SAN LORENZO The early-Christian Basilica of San Lorenzo dominates the Parco delle Basiliche, one of the loveliest green spaces in Milan, a haven of peace and tranquillity (p. 151). II SCIENCE MUSEUM A tribute to the genius of Leonardo da Vinci in a beautiful cloister. Among the attractions: trains, ships, the Toti submarine and an entire area dedicated to Space with a fragment of the Moon (p. 161). At Via San Vittore, 21 III PIAZZA SANT’EUSTORGIO Piazza Sant’Eustorgio hides traces of medieval Milan. The church bell tower is the tallest in town (seventy-five meters high), built in 1306 and is the oldest in Europe after Big Ben. The Portinari Chapel is a Renaissance gem (p. 153). IV NAVIGLI CANAL DISTRICT Home to the ancient river city, this is Milan at its most picturesque and popular, lapped by two historic canals, Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese.

Navigli

aaaaaaaa

PORTA TICINESE | NAVIGLI | TORTONA

CREATIVES AND BON VIVANT gather in groups around the outside tables. From Porta Ticinese, skirting the Navigli and reaching the via Tortona area, you find yourself immersed in an eclectic, authentic and energetic atmosphere. Porta Ticinese is a race of noisy shopping and nightlife for creative types in the shadows of Roman columns and ancient basilicas. Via Tortona and its environs, with its old industrial charm, looking ever more at its best since design set foot here thirty years ago, is now the city’s image platform on every level: fashion, showrooms, agencies, photography studios, publishing houses, museums and foundations. A charming wander with new concept stores, bars and restaurants, perfectly in sync with the ancient city.

The old river neighbourhood, that begins around the Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese canals and extends as far as the Darsena, is the evocative and at times picturesque “Old Milan,” which locals have expertly reshaped into a bohemian-chic hangout. Here, the typical case di ringhiera apartment blocks look out over airy courtyards full of plants, according to Milanese tradition, and the magical waterways, which add a certain lightness to the city. The street that flanks the Naviglio Grande has a sort of never-ending holiday feel, hailing from the area’s traditional trattorias, which never disappoint even the most jaded critic, and the aperitivo hour at sunset: men in shirts and ties turn up by bicycle, women sail in on their heels, while students 107

PORTA TICINESE | NAVIGLI | TORTONA

ARMANI SILOS This is Giorgio Armani’s exhibition space (p. 151), erected on the site of the former Nestlè warehouse, where the corn seeds were stored – the reason for its odd name – just opposite Teatro Armani, designed in 2000 by Japanese master Tadao Ando. The renovation of the building, which the Milanese designer followed himself, with 4,500 meters spread over four floors, is used to host exhibitions and cultural events in line with the Armani philosophy. Sober architecture with monumental forms, organized in such a way that functional needs are met with rationality. The interior, entirely in concrete, is centered on an open courtyard across three heights, with two side levels and crossed by a central staircase connecting the four floors. There is a gift shop at the entrance, a bar & restaurant with an outdoor terrace and a digital archive on the top floor. The archive contains sketches, technical drawings and material related to the company’s prêt-àporter and haute couture collections with workstations, touchscreen tables and a projection area for researchers or fashion lovers. When asked the reason for the building after the anthological exhibition on the 40th anniversary of the fashion house, which marked the museum’s opening in 2015, Armani replied, “Just as much as food, clothes are also a part of life”.

108

ph. Davide Lovatti

PORTA TICINESE | NAVIGLI | TORTONA

Armani Silos 109

PORTA TICINESE | NAVIGLI | TORTONA

Columns of San Lorenzo 110

PORTA TICINESE | NAVIGLI | TORTONA

Zona Tortona aa 112

PORTA TICINESE | NAVIGLI | TORTONA

Alzaia of Church Naviglio San Cristoforo Grande 113

PORTA TICINESE | NAVIGLI | TORTONA

THE APERITIVO HOUR

Milan’s old port, the Darsena, is experiencing a major revival. The all-new neighborhood, including Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese area, extends as far as Piazzale XXIV Maggio. Take a stroll here amid the greenery, enjoying original views over the canals, wonderful at sunset. During the summer, the streets and sidewalks come to life with outdoor seating, while in the winter, the atmosphere transforms into something of a winter wonderland, with a temporary ice rink over the water. For a well-prepared, traditional cocktail, head to Rita (Via Fumagalli, 1), located in a highly-trafficked neighbourhood but hidden in a famous side street where guests can take refuge from the crowds, or Morgante Cocktail & Soul (Vicolo Lavandai, 2). For more openminded and tie-slackening drinking, check out the cult spot Mag Cafè (Ripa di Porta Ticinese, 43). A valid alternative is Via Vigevano, aaaaaa home to the really popular Cape Town Cafè at n. 3, among others. aaaaaaa 114

PORTA TICINESE | NAVIGLI | TORTONA

Sunset on Navigli 115

PORTA TICINESE | NAVIGLI | TORTONA

HIGHLIGHTS design, sculpture, carpentry works, set assembly, costume design and laundry. The premises holds more than 60,000 stage costumes. Wishing to share this world of values, La Scala decided to open the Ansaldo Workshops (p. 151) to the public, where visitors can embark on a journey behind the scenes and see the birth of a show first hand.

ANTIQUES SUNDAY MARKET The atmosphere is special in the Navigli when brocanteurs and antique dealers set up their stalls at the crack of dawn. The market takes place on the last Sunday of the month, with more than 380 exhibitors spread across two kilometres of the canal. In this eclectic and enchanting grand bazaar, you can find a bit of everything: furniture, vintage clothing and accessories, vinyl, old jewellery, period trinkets, pocket and wrist watches, chinaware, silverware, books, walking sticks, bronze, glass, comics and prints.

SIX SIX is a clever combination of design gallery, bistro (p. 209) and green boutique studio at Via Scaldasole, 7. Described as the ultimate place to be, with a contemporary smoky grey color palette and cool identity, SIX is built around a courtyard that has been transformed into an imaginary world, highlighting the perception of outdoor and indoor gardens. The venue explores ideas of tropical and bohemian vibes with oversized palms and luscious monstera plants, nomadic rugs from Altai, chairs by Gio Ponti, arm-

A JOURNEY THROUGH THE BACKSTAGE A guided tour to discover the backstage of every performance at the Teatro alla Scala. The workshops have been located since 2001 in the Ansaldo area, a huge 20,000-squaremeter facility divided into three pavilions, dedicated to set 116

PORTA TICINESE | NAVIGLI | TORTONA

chairs designed by Le Corbusier for Chandigarh, and a table by David Lopez-Quincoces. Modernist philosophy and polished Milanese culture.

spectacular Agorà, a square in name and deed, located on the first floor and free to visitors. All year round, a selection of ethno-anthropological objects from the civic collections and 200 artworks are accompanied by temporary exhibitions of the likes of Joan Miró, Jean-Michel Basquiat and Frida Kahlo. The third floor hosts the restaurant, a successful venture by Michelin-starred chef Enrico Bartolini (p. 195), who offers his contemporary classic cuisine, while the bistro is on the ground floor.

COLUMNS OF SAN LORENZO Immersed in the heart of Milan’s nightlife and go-to aperitif spot are sixteen incredible columns with Corinthian capitals, assembled in the Middle Ages, between the 11th and 12th centuries, with Romanera materials. They are one of the rare surviving artifacts from Imperial Milan and appear like a mirage just inside the Porta Ticinese. It’s a popular night hangout among young locals.

FONDAZIONE FERRÉ The heritage of Gianfranco Ferré, architect of contemporary Italian fashion, is preserved here (p. 154). The database, continually updated and added to, presently contains more than 65,000 items. It opens the doors just to fashion addict and experts. An all-round discovery of the elegance and style of a man known for his formal and stylistic sharpness.

MUDEC MUSEUM OF CULTURES Part of the former industrial settlement of the Ansaldo steel plants, now-turned multidisciplinary center dedicated to the cultures of the world, the Museum of Cultures (p. 156) was designed by David Chipperfield. At its heart is the 117

FROM THE CENTRE TO PORTA ROMANA

P IAZZA MISSORI

V IA

III

GARDENS OF GUAST ALLA

V IA OR T MA NA

V IAL E LA ZIO

VASA RI

P L

IORG IO

E. CA LDAR A V IALE MON V. RE TE N G INA ERO MAR GHE RI T A

F. S F V IA

V IA A NT O N

V IALE

C ORSO I TA LIA

V IA

V IA P AC

V IA G. MERCALL I

VIA SAN BARNABA ENDA V IA DELLA COMM

. SOF

V IA S

CORSO DI P ORTA V I T T ORIA V IA F O NT AN A

II ZA

A P IAZZ CA VELAS

LAR

V IA SAN MART IN

V IA

L. P

AP I

V IA A. F ILIPP ET T I

VIALE BEATRICE Dâ€™ESTE

V IA G

V IA G. R IP AMONT I

V IA C. V I T TADIN I

V IA F. BOCCON I V IALE T OSCANA

V IA CREMA

VIALE BLIGNY

V IA G. ROMANO

V IALE ISONZO

Z IN I

V IA G. R TI

IP AM ON

V IA C. BAZZI

OD I

P IAZZA TRENT O

EN V IA G. LOR V IA G. SPADOL IN I

MUST SEE

CORSO XXII MARZO

UL I V IA

F RI

F OG AZZ ARO

O SSI

ORE

CAD

NIO

V IA A . ANF

AR T A

V IA

A SP

PARCO VIT TORIO FORMENTANO

V IALE UMBRIA

V IA BEZZECCA

C OM

V IA

EL I

IP SC

V IA

E ION

IAZ L IB ZALE IA

V IA

T IT

RIA EU MB

V IA

T ER

V IAL

V IA

F RI

UL I

V IA

T ULL

ENN

O LI

V IO

IANO

V IA L. LONGANAESI

C OR

IA BREMBO

LOD

ENA

V IA B

200 meters

I PORTA ROMANA Built in 1596, when Mary Margaret of Austria passed through Milan two large pearls were added to V IA MONTE IGARAIn Latin “margarita”, and the ORT arch. therefore Margaret, means pearl. II TORRE VELASCA P IAZZALE Completed in 1958, Torre Velasca MART IN I - 106 metres high - is a departure from rationalist architecture by BBPR studio. V IA C. BAZZI At Piazza Velasca, 3/5 III UNIVERSITY OF MILAN “LA STATALE” P IAZZA INSUBRIA The main public university in Milan and Lombardy finds its home in one of the city’s first Renaissance buildings, Cà Granda, built by the Florentine architect Filarete in 1467 (p. 162). At Via Festa del Perdono, 7 IV BIBLIOTECA SORMANI The 16th-century Palazzo Sormani is today the city library, boasting the largest collection of books, periodicals and multimedia in Milan. A reading garden at the back of the building is open from April to October (p. 152). At Corso di Porta Vittoria, 6

ph. Paolo Bona

University of Milan La Statale 122

FROM THE CENTRE TO PORTA ROMANA

CULTURED AND FUN shows. This is where you’ll find laidback charm, a mixture of real life and pure Milanese style that is very much part of the city’s fascination. The new Fondazione Prada - Studio OMA’s incredible conversion of an early 20thcentury factory into an exhibition space - and the top schools in the neighbourhood, including Bocconi University and La Statale University, spark undeniable cultural energy and diversions aimed at a young audience. Another cultural space is the Rotonda della Besana, where temporary events take place all year round, while the church has become the Children’s Museum. The sunny gardens are the perfect playground for kids.

Far from the gate that marked the entrance of Napoleon and his French troops in 1796 and erected about two hundred years before Mary Margaret of Austria passed through on her way to Madrid to marry Philip III of Spain, today Porta Romana leads into an elegant neighbourhood not too far from the city center. “Pearl” in Latin is “margarita”, and therefore the pearls added to the arch were a tribute to Mary Margaret. In the impressive 19th-century buildings that line Corso di Porta Romana and the surrounding streets, life is lively and polite, surrounded by airy and refined interiors that are home to well-to-do families who pass their time at meetings, previews and school 123

FROM THE CENTRE TO PORTA ROMANA

ROTONDA DELLA BESANA

Designed by architects Attilio Arrigoni and Francesco Croce between 1696 and 1719 and completed in the early 18th century, the core of the Rotonda is the church that stands in the middle of the lobate, hectagonal colonnade portico, named San Michele ai Nuovi Sepolcri, now deconsecrated and used as an exhibition and cultural space, at Via Besana 12. The church is home to the MUBA - Milan Childrenâ€™s Museum (p. 156), popular with families who live locally and from further afield. The whole area was originally a cemetery annexed to the Ospedale Maggiore (the main hospital). The building fell into disuse until 1958, when the ownership passed to Milanâ€™s city council. It took a few years to finally transform it into a cultural centre, with a carefully maintained ring-shaped public garden, open from sunrise to sunset. 124

FROM THE CENTRE TO PORTA ROMANA

Rotonda della Besana 125

FROM THE CENTRE TO PORTA ROMANA

FONDAZIONE PRADA The new Milan venue of the Fondazione Prada (p. 154) was unveiled in 2015, designed by Rem Koolhaas architectural firm OMA. Its multi-building architectural structure, a converted early 20th-century distillery with a combination of pre-existing buildings and three new edifices, Podium, Cinema and Torre, is a superb example of the interaction between conservative architecture and new styles: two creative moments in perfect balance, yet which remain clearly separate from one another. At the same time, the structural complexity allows for “open cultural scheduling in constant evolution,” as specified by Koolhaas. The complex extends over a total surface area of 19,000 square meters, most of which are used for exhibitions. The building at the entrance to the new centre welcomes the public with two spaces: a children’s educational area and the Bar Luce (p. 219), designed by Californian director Wes Anderson, which recreates the atmosphere of a coffee shop, reminiscent of Italian popular culture of the 1950s and 1960. The bar is already a regular neighborhood hangout as well as a hotspot for the general public. A new part of the Fondazione Prada recently opened on the top floor of Pasticceria Marchesi in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, located above the central octagon. Titled Osservatorio it is an exhibition space focused on photography and the visual arts. The restoration project allowed parts of the original wood flooring and wide glass windows to be preserved. Visitors can purchase a ticket to visit the Fondazione Prada that is also valid for Osservatorio within 7 days (p. 159).

126

FROM THE CENTRE TO PORTA ROMANA

Fondazione Prada 127

FROM THE CENTRE TO PORTA ROMANA

Porta Romana 128

FROM THE CENTRE TO PORTA ROMANA

Torre Velasca from the top of the Duomo 129

FROM THE CENTRE TO PORTA ROMANA

HIGHLIGHTS main place of Jewish worship in Milan. The Guastalla gardens are among the smallest in Milan, covering just 12,000 square meters, but are undoubtedly the city’s oldest public gardens. They were created in 1555 according to the wishes of Countess Paola Ludovica Torelli della Guastalla (hence their name), in the Italian style. The gardens feature a Baroque fish pond, replacing the original 16th-century lake, a Neoclassical temple, alleys, fountains and almost 200 trees, including maple, hornbeam, horse chestnut, magnolia, linden and other rare species.

THE MARRONS GLACÉS AT GIOVANNI GALLI In the Giovanni Galli bakery (p. 217), you walk in with a sweet tooth and out with an obsession for their marrons glacés. Using the same recipe since 1911, they are made almost entirely by hand, without any added preservatives. Cooked slowly for ten days in a sugar syrup, then glazed and baked quickly in the oven to make the surface shiny: this is the art handed down from generation to generation. Little chestnut-flavoured gems with an ever so crispy glaze, not too thick and not too fine so that it crumbles. On your second visit to Galli, try the chocolate-coated pralines made from candied chestnut paste!

TERME DI MILANO Opened in 2010 by Porta Romana, at Piazzale Medaglie D’Oro, 2 the baths stem from the redevelopment of a 1907 Liberty-style building that was initially used as a horse-drawn train depot and which later became a ballroom and then a nightclub. Its most recent role is a spa, with pools, jets of wa-

GARDENS OF GUASTALLA An almost unreal silence surrounds the gardens and the nearby Synagogue (p. 161), built in an eclectic style in 1892 as the 130

FROM THE CENTRE TO PORTA ROMANA

ter, saunas and a Turkish bath in the basement; in the outdoor garden, there are heated pools and a former tram transformed into a sauna; the second floor is dedicated to massages. You can also enjoy a healthy snack or lunch and even an aperitivo at sunset while wearing your bathrobe.

POTAFIORI Potafiori is the “flower bistro”. Firstly, it’s a store where flowers by Rosalba Piccinni, cut flowers, decorative plants, bulbs, roots and branches take center stage, at Via Salasco, 17. Then comes the bistro (p. 210), with simple but original plates made with what’s available on the market, open from breakfast until late in the evening. Here clients can find objects of design, aprons, bags and notebooks with original drawings by William Morris, plates by Richard Ginori and wine.

CONCEPT STORE: L’ARABESQUE L’Arabesque is a decidedly unique concept store that includes various shops, a café & restaurant and a niche bookstore at Largo Augusto, 10. The passion Chichi Meroni, a decorator and lifestyle queen, has for 1940s and 50s vintage led her to establish this spectacular place, where clients can find a gallery with modern furniture and lighting and stores selling men’s and women’s fashions selected especially for L’Arabesque, high-end perfumes by Gardenia d’Ysabey or Caron and accessories for completing the total look.

BAGNI MISTERIOSI AT TEATRO FRANCO PARENTI It‘s the only theatre in the world with a pool (p. 163). In the summer, visitors can dive and swim, as well as attend theatrical performances and happy hours with classical and jazz music. In the winter, the pool is transformed into an ice skating rink, amidst art, music and magic. 131

DUOMO | city center

132

DUOMO | city center

MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MILAN 133

MANDARIN BAR & BISTROT IS THE HOTEL’S BEATING HEART, FEATURING A MODISH ICONIC DESIGN INSIDE AND A BUCOLIC SETTING IN THE COURTYARD OUTSIDE. THE BAR’S ATMOSPHERE EVOLVES FROM RELAXED TO VIBRANT AS THE DAY UNFOLDS.

134

135

Mandarin Bar & Bistrot courtyard 136

aaa 137

DUOMO | city center

138

GUESTROOMS & SUITES The guest rooms are decorated in neutral tones that reflect classic Milanese elegance. In contrast to the vibrant ambience of the public areas, they are calm and homely, featuring tones of beige, black and white that offer an elegant understated touch. The spacious Italian marble bathrooms overlook the hotelâ€™s inner courtyards or city rooftops. Comprising its own private apartment with living area and kitchen, the Presidential Suite offers wonderful views of Via Monte di PietĂ . High ceilings and French doors provide ample illumination and create a sense of space. The sumptuous bathroom has an azure Brazilian marble floor, a freestanding oval shaped bathtub and walk-in shower. Decorated with bespoke furniture, rich textiles and lavish carpets, it combines Milanese elegance with an East Asian touch. 139

140

FORNASETTI SUITE Created as a tribute to renowned Italian master of design Piero Fornasetti, the stylish Fornasetti Suite is the epitome of chic and fashionable Milanese design. It is decorated with luxury materials and furnished with original Fornasetti pieces. Characterised by high ceilings and abundant natural light, it comprises a living room, bedroom, master bathroom and guest bathroom. The spacious master bathroom has a walk-in shower and freestanding bathtub. Framed mirrors adorn the olive-green walls of the lounge area, while a large pillar decorated with monochromatic wallpaper draws the eye to the centre of the room, and acts as a divider between the dining room and lounge area. The suiteâ€™s eye-catching design reflects the highest levels of Milanese creativity. 141

DUOMO | city center

PREMIER SUITE Dedicated as a tribute to Italian designer Giò Ponti, the Premier Suite features simple décor that reflects Gio Ponti’s minimalist style. Decorated in black walnut, it boasts a sophisticated melange of modern design furnishings, with a number of pieces by Christofle that are based on Ponti’s designs. A glamorous Sarfatti chandelier hangs above a marble Eros table, while an original console table by Ponti adorns the lounge area. Splashes of navy blue lend a calm and composed feel, with sapphire-coloured textiles in the bedroom matching the Cattilina armchairs in the living area. Natural materials dominate, with oak wood-panelled walls and parquet floors. The spacious bathroom has a Spoon XL designer bathtub by Italian manufacturer Agape, along with double sink vanity units and walk-in shower. 142

DUOMO | city center

143

144

A HAVEN DEDICATED TO WELLNESS, THE SPA OFFERS A HOLISTIC APPROACH PROVIDING PHYSICAL, EMOTIONAL AND MENTAL EQUILIBRIUM . THE ‘FENG SHUI’ ARCHITECTURE AND THE TREATMENTS RESTORATIVE ON OFFER REFLECT THE HOTEL’S ORIENTAL HERITAGE. 145

RUN BY EXECUTIVE CHEF ANTONIO GUIDA, THE MICHELIN-STARRED SETA RESTAURANT OFFERS GUESTS AN INTIMATE GOURMET EXPERIENCE. A TEMPLE OF GASTRONOMY FEATURING INNER COURTYARD AN ELEGANT FOR AL FRESCO DINING, IT FEATURES CONTEMPORARY INTERIORS WITH A CLASSIC TIMELESS DESIGN.

146

147

PLACES Our General Manager’s favourites

TOP ATTRACTIONS, ART & THEATRES Our Concierge’s favourites

SHOPPING Our Chef’s favourites

RESTAURANTS & FOOD Our Barman’s favourites

APERITIF & WINE BARS Our Event Manager’s favourites

NIGHTLIFE Our PR Director’s favourites

OUTSIDE MILAN

TOP ATTRACTIONS, MUSEUMS ART & THEATRES

OUR GENERAL MANAGERâ€™S FAVOURITES

TOP ATTRACTIONS, ART & THEATRES

150

TOP ATTRACTIONS, ART & THEATRES

Via Bergognone, 40 Ph. +39 02 91630010 armanisilos.com Astronomical Museum and Observatory Monday to Friday 9 am to 4.30 pm. Free entry Palazzo Brera, Via Brera, 28 Ph. +39 02 72320300 museoastronomomico.brera.inaf.it Bagni Misteriosi at Teatro Franco Parenti Monday to Friday 4.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Saturday and Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Carlo Botta, 18 Ph. +39 02 89731800 bagnimisteriosi.com Basilica of San Babila Monday to Friday 7.30 am to noon and 3.30 pm to 7 pm; Saturday 8 am to noon and 4 pm to 7.30 pm; Sunday 8.30 am to 1.30 pm and 4.30 pm to 7.30 pm. Free entry Piazza San Babila Ph. +39 02 76002877 Basilica of San Lorenzo Monday to Friday 8 am to 6.30 pm; Saturday and Sunday 9 am to 7 pm. Free entry Corso di Porta Ticinese, 35 Ph. +39 02 89404129 sanlorenzomaggiore.com

Accademia di Belle Arti Via Brera 28 Ph. +39 02 869551 accademiadibrera.milano.it Albergo Diurno Venezia Open to the public during FAI (the fund for the Italian environment) days Piazza Gugliemo Oberdan Ph. +39 02 6592330 fondoambiente.it Ansaldo Workshops Tuesday and Thursday by appointment. Full Ticket Euro 10. Free admission under the age of 12 Via Bergognone, 34 Ph. +39 02 43353521 teatroallascala.org Archaeological Museum Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm. Full Ticket Euro 5,00. Free admission under the age of 18. Free admission every day in the last hour of opening and on Tuesdays from 2 pm Corso Magenta, 15 Ph. +39 02 88445208 museoarcheologicomilano.it Armani Silos Wednesday to Sunday 11 am to 7 pm. Full Ticket Euro 12. Free admission under the age of 6 151

TOP ATTRACTIONS, ART & THEATRES

Basilica of San Simpliciano Monday to Saturday 7.30 am to noon and 3 pm to 7 pm; Sunday 8 am to 4 pm Free entry Piazza San Simpliciano, 7 Ph.+39 02 862274 sansimpliciano.it Basilica of Santâ€™Ambrogio Monday to Saturday 9.30 am to noon and 2.30 pm to 6 pm Sunday 3 pm to 5 pm Free entry Piazza Santâ€™Ambrogio, 15 Ph. +39 02 86450895 basilicasantambrogio.it Basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie Monday to Saturday 7 am to noon and 3 pm to 7.15 pm Sunday 7.30 am to 12.30 pm and 15.30 pm to 9 pm Free entry Via Giuseppe Antonio Sassi, 3 Ph. +39 02 4676111 legraziemilano.it Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense Monday to Friday 8.30 am to 6.20 pm; Saturday 9 am to 2 pm Free entry Via Brera,28 Ph. +39 02 86460907 braidense.it

Biblioteca Sormani Monday to Saturday 9 am to 7 pm. Free entry Corso di Porta Vittoria, 6 Ph. +39 02 88463397 comune.milano.it/ bibliotecasormani Biblioteca Trivulziana (at Castello Sforzesco) Monday to Friday 9 am to noon and 1.30 pm to 4.30 pm Free entry Piazza Castello, Cortile della Rocchetta Ph. +39 02 88463696 trivulziana.milanocastello.it Boschi Di Stefano House Museum Tuesday to Sunday 10 am to 6 pm Free entry Via Giorgio Jan, 15 Ph. +39 02 88464748 fondazioneboschidistefano.it Botanical Gardens Monday to Saturday 10 am to 6 pm (from 1st april to al 31th october); Monday to Saturday 9.30 am to 4.30 pm (from 1st november to 31th march) Free entry Via Brera, 28 Via F.lli Gabba, 10 152

TOP ATTRACTIONS, ART & THEATRES

Ph. +39 02 50314683 museoortibotanicistatale.it Casa degli Atellani and Leonardo’s Vineyard Monday to Sunday 9 am to 6 pm . Full Ticket Euro 10 Free admission under the age of 5 Corso Magenta, 65 Ph. +39 02 4816150 vignadileonardo.com Castello Sforzesco Monday to Sunday 7 am to 7 pm. Free Entry Piazza Castello Ph. +39 02 88463700 milanocastello.it Cathedral’s terrace Monday to Sunday 9 am to 7 pm; last admission at 6.10 Full Ticket Euro 9 admission on foot; Euro 13 admission by lift. Free admission under the age of 6 Piazza del Duomo Ph. +39 02 72023375 duomomilano.it Church of San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore Tuesday to Sunday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm Free Entry Corso Magenta, 15 Ph. +39 02 88445208

Church of Santa Maria del Carmine Monday to Sunday 7.30 am to noon and 4 pm to 7 pm Free entry Piazza del Carmine, 2 Ph. +39 02 86463365 chiesadelcarmine.it Church of Santa Maria presso San Satiro Tuesday to Saturday 9.30 am to 5.30 pm; Sunday 2 pm to 5.30 pm Free Entry Via Torino, 17/19 Ph. +39 02 874683 Church of Sant’Eustorgio and Portinari Chapels Monday to Sunday 7.45 am to noon and 3.30 pm to 6.30 pm Free entry Piazza Sant’Eustorgio, 1 Ph. +39 02 58101583 santeustorgio.it

153

TOP ATTRACTIONS, ART & THEATRES

Duomo Milano Monday to Sunday 8 am to 7 pm last admission at 6.10 pm Full Ticket Euro 3 The ticket includes admission to the Cathedral, Duomo Museum and Church of San Gottardo in Corte Piazza del Duomo Ph. +39 02 72022656 duomomilano.it Duomo Museum Monday to Sunday 10 am to 6 pm; Wednesday closed Ticket Euro 3 Piazza del Duomo, 12 Ph. +39 02 72023453 museo.duomomilano.it Egyptian Museum (at Castello Sforzesco) Opening June 2018: Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm Full ticket Euro 5, including admission to all Castello Sforzesco museums Free admission under the age of 18. Free entry: on Tuesdays from 2 pm; from Wednesday to Sunday in the last hour of opening; every first Sunday of the month Piazza Castello Ph. +39 02 88463700 museoegizio.milanocastello.it

Fondazione Arnaldo Pomodoro Tuesday to Friday 11 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 7pm Free entry into the exhibition space Via Vigevano, 9 Ph. +39 02 89075394 fondazionearnaldopomodoro.it Fondazione Carriero Monday to Saturday 11 am to 6 pm. Free entry Via Cino del Duca, 4 Ph. +39 02 36747039 fondazionecarriero.org Fondazione Feltrinelli Multipurpose Room: Monday to Friday 9.30 am to 5.30 pm Reading Room: Monday to Thursday 9.30 am to 5.30 pm and Friday 9.30 am to 1 pm; time changes may occur due to events. Free entry Viale Pasubio, 5 Ph. +39 02 4958341 fondazionefeltrinelli.it Fondazione Gianfranco FerrĂŠ Via Tortona, 37 Ph.+39 02 36580109 fondazionegianfrancoferre.com Fondazione Prada Monday, Wednesday, Thursday 10 am to 7 pm; Friday, Saturday, Sunday 10 am to 8 pm 154

TOP ATTRACTIONS, ART & THEATRES

Full Ticket Euro 10 Free admission for childrens Largo Isarco, 2 Ph. +39 02 56662611 Fondazione Studio Museo Achille Castiglioni Guided tours only by appointment: Tuesday to Saturday 10 am, 11 am and noon (Saturday only with a minimum of 15 people); Thursday 6.30 pm, 7.30 pm and 8.30 pm Full Ticket Euro 10 Free admission under the age of 6 Piazza Castello, 27 Ph. +39 02 8053606 fondazioneachillecastiglioni.it Fonderia Artistica Battaglia Monday to Friday 8 am to noon and 1 pm to 5 pm Visits of the Museum only by appointment Free entry Via Stilicone, 10 Ph. +39 02 341071 fonderiabattaglia.com Galleria Kaufmann Repetto Monday to Saturday 11 am to 7.30 pm. Free entry Via di Porta Tenaglia, 7 Ph. +39 02 72094331 kaufmannrepetto.it

Gallerie d’Italia Tuesday to Sunday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm; Thursday 9.30 am to 10.30 pm Full Ticket Euro 10 (free admission first Sunday of the month). Free admission under the age of 18 Piazza della Scala, 6 Ph. +39 800 167619 gallerieditalia.com Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Free entry Piazza del Duomo GAM - Gallery of Modern Art Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm. Full Ticket Euro 5 Free admission under the age of 18; Free admission every day in the last hour of opening and on Tuesdays from 2 pm Via Palestro, 16 Ph. +39 02 88445943 gam-milano.com Giò Marconi gallery Tuesday to Saturday 11 am to 7 pm. Free entry Via Tadino, 20 Ph. +39 02 29404373 giomarconi.com

155

TOP ATTRACTIONS, ART & THEATRES

Highline Galleria Monday to Sunday 10 am to 9 pm. Full Ticket Euro 12. Free admission under the age of 14 Via Silvio Pellico, 2 Ph. +39 02 45397656 highlinegalleria.com Last Supper Cenacolo Vinciano Tuesday to Sunday 8.15 am to 7 pm Full Ticket Euro 10 + booking Euro 2. Free admission under the age of 18 + booking Euro 2 Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie, 2 Ph. +39 02 92800360 cenacolo.it La Triennale di Milano Tuesday to Sunday 10.30 am to 8.30 pm Ticket price varies according to exhibitions Viale Alemagna, 6 Ph. +39 02 724341 triennale.org Lia Rumma Gallery Tuesday to Saturday 11 am to 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm Free entry Via Stilicone, 19 Ph. +39 02 29000101 liarumma.it

Massimo De Carlo gallery Tuesday to Saturday 11 am to 7 pm. Free entry Piazza Belgioioso, 2 Ph. +39 02 36636990 massimodecarlo.com Monica De Cardenas gallery Tuesday to Friday 3 pm to 7 pm; Saturday noon to 7 pm Free entry Via Francesco Viganò, 4 Ph. +39 02 29010068 monicadecardenas.com MUBA - Milan Children’s Museum Tuesday to Friday 9.30 am to 6 pm; Saturday and Sunday 9.45 am to 6 pm Full Ticket children Euro 8 + Adult Euro 6 Via Besana, 12 Ph. +39 02 43980402 muba.it MUDEC - Museum of Cultures Monday 2.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm; Thursday and Saturday 9.30 am to 10.30 pm Full Ticket Euro 5 for the permanent collection Via Tortona, 56 Ph. +39 02 54917 mudec.it 156

TOP ATTRACTIONS, ART & THEATRES

admission under the age of 10 Via Manzoni, 12 Ph. +39 02 794889-6334 museopoldipezzoli.it Museum of Ancient Art (at Castello Sforzesco) Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm. Full ticket Euro 5, including admission to all Castello Sforzesco museums Free admission under the age of 18. Free entry: on Tuesdays from 2 pm; from Wednesday to Sunday in the last hour of opening; every first Sunday of the month Piazza Castello Ph. +39 02 88463700 arteantica.milanocastello.it Museum of Applied Arts (at Castello Sforzesco) Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm. Full ticket Euro 5, including admission to all Castello Sforzesco museums Free admission under the age of 18. Free entry: on Tuesdays from 2 pm; from Wednesday to Sunday in the last hour of opening; every first Sunday of the month Piazza Castello Ph. +39 02 88463700 artidecorative.milanocastello.it

Museo del Novecento Monday 2.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm; Thursday and Saturday 9.30 am to 10.30 pm. Full Ticket Euro 5. Free admission in the last two hours of opening and on Tuesdays from 2 pm Via Marconi, 1 Ph. +39 02 88444061 museodelnovecento.org Museo del Risorgimento Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 5.30 pm Full Ticket Euro 5 Free admission under the age of 18; free admission every day in the last hour of opening and on Tuesdays from 2 pm Via Borgonuovo, 23 Ph. +39 02 88464177 museodelrisorgimento.mi.it Museo Bagatti Valsecchi Tuesday to Sunday 1 pm to 5.45 pm. Full ticket Euro 9 Free admission under the age of 5 Via Gesù, 5 Ph. +39 02 76006132 museobagattivalsecchi.org Museo Poldi Pezzoli Wednesday to Monday 10 am to 6 pm. Full ticket Euro 10. Free 157

TOP ATTRACTIONS, ART & THEATRES

to 5.30 pm. Full ticket Euro 5, including admission to all Castello Sforzesco museums. Free admission under the age of 18. Free entry: on Tuesdays from 2 pm; from Wednesday to Sunday in the last hour of opening; every first Sunday of the month Piazza Castello Ph. +39 02 88463700 strumentimusicali. milanocastello.it Natural History Museum Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm Full ticket Euro 5. Free admission under the age of 18 Corso Venezia, 55 Ph. +39 02 88463337 comune.milano.it/ museostorianaturale Nilufar gallery Monday 3 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Friday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Free entry Via della Spiga, 32 Ph. +39 02 780193 Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 7 pm out Viale Vincenzo Lancetti, 34 Ph. +39 02 36590800 nilufar.com

Museum of Costume, Fashion and Appearance Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 5.30 pm Full Ticket Euro 5. Free admission under the age of 18. Free admission every day in the last hour of opening and on Tuesdays from 2 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 6 Ph. +39 02 88446056 / 65735 costumemodaimmagine.mi.it Museum of Furniture and Wooden Sculptures (at Castello Sforzesco) Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm Full ticket Euro 5, including admission to all Castello Sforzesco museums Free admission under the age of 18. Free entry: on Tuesdays from 2 pm; from Wednesday to Sunday in the last hour of opening; every first Sunday of the month Piazza Castello Ph. +39 02 88463700 museodeimobili. milanocastello.it Museum of Musical Instruments (at Castello Sforzesco) Tuesday to Sunday 9 am 158

TOP ATTRACTIONS, ART & THEATRES

am to 10.30 pm Full Ticket Euro 12 Free admission under the age of 6 Piazza Duomo, 12 Ph. +39 02 88465230 palazzorealemilano.it PietĂ Rondanini (at Castello Sforzesco) Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm. Full ticket Euro 5, including admission to all Castello Sforzesco museums Free admission under the age of 18. Free entry:Â on Tuesdays from 2 pm; from Wednesday to Sunday in the last hour of opening; every first Sunday of the month Piazza Castello Ph. +39 02 88463700 rondanini.milanocastello.it

Osservatorio Fondazione Prada Monday to Friday 2 pm to 8 pm Saturday, Sunday 10 am to 8 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Ph. +39 02 56662611 fondazioneprada.org PAC - Pavilion of Contemporary Art Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm; Tuesday and Thursday 9.30 am to 10.30 pm Full Ticket Euro 8 Free admission under the age of 6 Via Palestro, 14 Ph. +39 02 88446359 pacmilano.it Palazzo della Ragione Fotografia Piazza Mercanti, 1 Ph. +39 02 43353535 palazzodellaragionefotografia.it Palazzo Litta Cultura Tuesday to Sunday 10 am to 7.30 pm. Free entry Corso Magenta, 24 Ph. +39 02 39297676 palazzolittacultura.it Palazzo Reale Monday 2.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm Thursday and Saturday 9.30 159

TOP ATTRACTIONS, ART & THEATRES

to 10 pm. Free entry

Pinacoteca Ambrosiana Tuesday to Sunday 10 am to 6 pm. Full ticket Euro 15 Free admission under the age of 14 accompanied by an adult Piazza Pio XI, 2 Ph. + 39 02 806921 ambrosiana.eu Pinacoteca (at Castello Sforzesco) Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm. Full ticket Euro 5, including admission to all Castello Sforzesco museums Free admission under the age of 18. Free entry: on Tuesdays from 2 pm; from Wednesday to Sunday in the last hour of opening; every first Sunday of the month Piazza Castello Ph. +39 02 88463700 pinacoteca.milanocastello.it Pinacoteca di Brera Tuesday to Sunday 8.30 am to 7.15 pm. Brera di Sera: every first Thursday of the month from 6 pm to 10.15 pm, ticket price 2 euro. Full ticket: Euro 10. Free admission under the age of 18 Via Brera, 28 Ph. +39 02 72263298 pinacotecabrera.org Pirelli Hangar Bicocca Thursday to Sunday 10 am

out Via Chiese, 2

Ph. +39 02 66111573 hangarbicocca.org Pirelli Tower Piazza Duca d’Aosta, 5-7A Ph. +39 02 674821 Prehistory and Protohistory Museum (at Castello Sforzesco) Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm. Full ticket Euro 5, including admission to all Castello Sforzesco museums; Free admission under the age of 18. Free entry: on Tuesdays from 2 pm; from Wednesday to Sunday in the last hour of opening; every first Sunday of the month Piazza Castello Ph. +39 02 88463700 museiarcheologici. milanocastello.it Public Library Venezia Monday, Wednesday, Friday 2 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday, Thursday 10 am to 7 pm; Saturday 10 am to 6 pm. Free entry Via Frisi 2/4 Ph. +39 02 88465799 milano.biblioteche.it Roman Anphitheater Winter opening hours: Tuesday to Friday 9 am 160

TOP ATTRACTIONS, ART & THEATRES

to 4.30 pm; Saturday 9 am to 2 pm. Summer opening hours: Tuesday to Friday 9 am to 6 pm; Saturday 9 am to 2 pm Free entry Via E. De Amicis, 17 Ph. +39 02 89400555 parcoanfiteatromilano. beniculturali.it Science Museum Tuesday to Friday 9.30 am to 5 pm; Saturday, Sunday and public holidays 9.30 am to 6.30 pm. Full Ticket Euro 10. Free admission under the age of 3 Via San Vittore, 21 Ph. +39 02 485551 museoscienza.org Stadio San Siro (Meazza) out Piazzale Moratti Ph. +39 02 48798201 Museum inside the stadium, Full Ticket: Tour and Museum 17 euro. Free admission under the age of 6. Winter: Monday to Sunday 9.30 am to 5 pm Summer: Monday to Sunday 9.30 am to 6 pm. Time changes on football match days or due to events Ph. +39 02 4042432 sansiro.net

Studio Giangaleazzo Visconti gallery Monday to Friday 10 am to 1 pm and 2.30 pm to 6 pm Free entry Corso Monforte, 23 Ph. +39 02 795251 studiovisconti.net Synagogue Guided tours only by appointment minimum of 10 people. Full Ticket Euro 8 Via della Guastalla, 19 Ph. +39 02 54124043 Teatro alla Scala Museum Monday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm. Full Ticket Euro 9. Free admission under the age of 12 Largo Ghiringhelli, 1 (Piazza della Scala) Ph. + 39 02 88797473 museoscala.org Triennale Design Museum Tuesday to Sunday 10.30 am to 8.30 pm. Ticket price varies according to exhibitions Viale Alemagna,6 Ph. +39 02 724341 triennale.org

161

TOP ATTRACTIONS, ART & THEATRES

comune.milano.it/planetario University of Milan La Statale Via Festa del Perdono, 7 Ph. +39 02 503111 unimi.it Villa Necchi Campiglio Wednesday to Sunday 10 am to 6 pm for guided tours only require advance booking Full Ticket Euro 10 Free admission under the age of 4 Via Mozart, 14 Ph. +39Â 02 76340121 fondoambiente.it

Torre Branca Winter: Wednesday 10.30 am to 12.30 pm and 4 pm to 6.30 pm; Saturday 10.30 am to 1 pm, 3 pm to 6.30 pm and 8.30 pm to midnight; Sunday 10.30 am to 2 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm. Summer: Tuesday 3 pm to 7 pm and 8.30 pm to noon; Wednesday 10.30 am to 12.30 pm, 3 pm to 7 pm and 8.30 pm to midnight; Thursday and Friday 3 pm to 7 pm and 8.30 pm to midnight; Saturday and Sunday 10.30 am to 2 pm, 2.30 pm to 7.30 pm and 8.30 pm to midnight Full Ticket. Free admission under the age of 5. Euro 5 Viale Camoens, 2 Ph.+39 02 3314120 Ph.+39 335 6847122 museobranca.it Ulrico Hoepli Planetarium c/o Indro Montanelli Public Gardens Monday to Friday 9 am to 5 pm; Tuesday and Thursday 9 pm (start time of the show) Saturday and Sunday 3 pm and 4.30 pm (starts time of the show) Full Ticket Euro 5 C.so Venezia, 57 Ph. + 39 02 88463340 162

TOP ATTRACTIONS, ART & THEATRES

Ph. +39 02 87905 dalverme.org Teatro degli Arcimboldi out Viale dellâ€™Innovazione, 20 Ph. +39 02 641142200 teatroarcimboldi.it Teatro Franco Parenti Via Lombardo, 14 Ph. +39 02 59995206 teatrofrancoparenti.it Teatro Litta Corso Magenta, 24 Ph. +39 02 86454545 mtmteatro.it Teatro Manzoni Via Manzoni, 42 Ph. +39 02 7636901 teatromanzoni.it Teatro Nazionale Via Rota, 1 (ex Piazza Piemonte) Ph. +39 02 00640888 teatronazionale.it Teatro Nuovo Piazza San Babila, 3 Ph. +39 02 794026 teatronuovo.it

THEATRES Auditorium di Milano Largo Mahler Ph. +39 02 83389401 laverdi.org Elfo Puccini Corso Buenos Aires, 33 Ph. +39 02 00660606 elfo.org Piccolo Teatro Grassi Via Rovello, 2 Ph. +39 02 42411889 piccoloteatro.org Piccolo Teatro Strehler Largo Greppi, 1 Ph. +39 02 42411889 piccoloteatro.org Piccolo Teatro Studio Mariangela Melato Via Rivoli, 6 Ph. + 39 02 42411889 piccoloteatro.org Teatro alla Scala Via Filodrammatici, 2 Ph. + 39 02 88791 teatroallascala.org Teatro Carcano Corso di Porta Romana, 63 Ph. +39 02 55181377 teatrocarcano.com Teatro Dal Verme Via San Giovanni sul Muro, 2 163

SHOPPING

OUR CONCIERGEâ€™S FAVOURITES

SHOPPING

164

SHOPPING

Corso Venezia, 12 Ph. +39 02 76024105 adddown.it Agent Provocateur La Rinascente Monday to Thursday 9.30 am to 9 pm; Friday and Saturday 9.30 am to 10 pm; Sunday 10 am to 9 pm Piazza Duomo, Via Radegonda, 3 Ph+39 02 8852487 agentprovocateur.com Alan Journo Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 13.30 pm and 3 pm to 6 pm Via della Spiga, 36 Ph. +39 02 76001309 alanjourno.com Alberta Ferretti Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm

FASHION & Other Stories Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 8 pm Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 1 Ph. +39 06 32832201 stories.com 7 For All Mankind Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7.30 pm Via Manzoni, 43 Ph. +39 02 49504361 7forallmankind.it 10 Corso Como Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Wednesday and Thursday 10.30 am to 9 pm Corso Como, 10 Ph. +39 02 6535531 10corsocomo.com Abercrombie Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm; Sunday noon to 8 pm

Via Monte Napoleone, 18 Ph. +39 02 76003095 albertaferretti.com Alexander McQueen Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Pietro Verri, 8 Ph. +39 02 76003374 alexandermcqueen.com/it

Corso Giacomo Matteotti, 12 Ph. +39 800 977 839 abercrombie.com ADD Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm 165

SHOPPING

Antonia Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Monday 3 pm to 7.30 pm Via Cusani, 5 Womenswear Ph. +39 02 86998340 Menswear Ph. +39 02 86984141 antonia.it Aspesi Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm

Belstaff Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 2 pm to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 19 Ph. +39 02 36533106 belstaff.com Biffi Boutique Monday 3 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm Corso Genova, 5/6 Ph. +39 02 8311601 biffi.com Blumarine Monday to Saturday 10 am to 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 30 Ph. +39 02 795081 blumarine.com Boglioli Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm

Via Monte Napoleone, 13 Ph. +39 02 76022478 aspesi.com Balenciaga Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Santo Spirito, 19 Ph. +39 02 760841 balenciaga.com Banner Monday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 pm to 7.30 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 8A Ph. +39 02 76004609 biffi.com Barba Napoli Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Gesù, 19 Ph. +39 02 76280782 barbanapoli.shop

Via San Pietro all’Orto, 17 Ph. +39 02 76394051 boglioli.it Bonpoint Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm Via Manzoni, 15 Ph. +39 02 89010023 bonpoint.com 166

SHOPPING

Via Pietro Verri, 1 Ph. +39 02 7639 0365 canali.it Capalbio Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 2.30 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm Via Cerva, 13 Ph. +39 02 76316677 capalbio.com Carlo Tivioli Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 7 pm Via Santo Spirito, 24 Ph. +39 02 76001490 carlotivioli.com Cavalli e Nastri Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday noon to 7.30 pm Via Brera, 2 Ph. +39 02 72000449 Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday noon to 7.30 pm out Via Giangiacomo Mora, 12 Ph. +39 02 89409452 Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday noon to 7.30 pm out Via Giangiacomo Mora, 3 Ph. +39 02 49451174 cavallienastri.com

Bottega Veneta Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm

Via Monte Napoleone, 27 Ph. +39 02 76024495 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Santâ€™Andrea, 15 Ph. +39 02 77878116 bottegaveneta.com/it Brioni Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via GesĂš, 2/A Ph. +39 02 76390086 brioni.com Brunello Cucinelli Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 27/C Ph. +39 02 76015982 brunellocucinelli.it Burberry Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 12 Ph. + 39 02 3601 0852 it.burberry.com Canali Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm 167

SHOPPING

Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm; Sunday noon to 7 pm Via Brera ,21 Ph. +39 02 32832711 cosstores.com Daad Dantone Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Monday 2 pm to 7.30 pm

CĂ¨line Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7pm Via Monte Napoleone, 25/2 Ph. +39 02 77885900 celine.com Chanel Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Santâ€™Andrea, 10/A Ph. +39 02 77886999 chanel.com Comptoir des Cotonniers Monday and Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Friday 10 am to 7.30; Saturday 10 am to 8 pm Via Manzoni, 11 corner Via Andegari, 18 Ph. + 39 02 72080406 comptoirdescotonniers.eu Corneliani Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm

Via Santo Spirito, 24/A Ph. +39 02 76016045 daad-dantone.com Dior Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 12 Ph. +39 02 76317809 dior.com Dolce & Gabbana Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via della Spiga, 26 Ph. +39 02 76001155 Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via della Spiga, 2 Ph. +39 02 795747 Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Corso Venezia, 7 Ph. +39 02 76004091 Monday to Sunday 10.30 am

Via Monte Napoleone, 26 Ph. +39 02 76317955 corneliani.com Cos Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8.30 pm; Sunday noon to 7 pm Corso Venezia, 5 Ph. +39 06 32832702 168

SHOPPING

to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm

to 7.30 pm Corso Venezia, 13 Ph. +39 02 799135 Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Corso Venezia, 15 Ph. +39 02 76028485 Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via della Spiga, 1 Ph. +39 02 76024094 Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 4 Ph. +39 02 77123711 dolcegabbana.it Doriani Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via GesĂš, 7 Ph. +39 02 76021527 Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via Santâ€™Andrea, 2 Ph. +39 02 76008012 doriani.it Dsquared2 Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7pm Via Pietro Verri, 4 Ph. +39 02 89691699 dsquared2.com/it Emilio Pucci Monday to Saturday 10 am

Via Monte Napoleone, 27 Ph. +39 02 76318356 emiliopucci.com/it Ermenegildo Zegna Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 27/E Ph. +39 02 76006437 zegna.com Etro Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 5 Ph. +39 02 76005049 etro.com Excelsior Milano Monday to Sunday 10 am to 8.30 pm Galleria del Corso, 4 Ph. +39 02 76307301 excelsiormilano.com Falconeri Monday to Sunday 10 am to 8.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone corner Via Manzoni, 20 Ph. +39 02 76023017 it.falconeri.com 169

SHOPPING

galliaepeter.it Giambattista Valli Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Santâ€™Andrea, 12 Ph. +39 02 780218 giambattistavalli.com Gio Moretti Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 4 Ph. +39 02 76003186 giomoretti.com Giorgio Armani Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 2 Ph. +39 02 76003234 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Ph. +39 02 49483060 armani.com Emporio Armani Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Manzoni, 31 Ph.+39 02 72318600 armani.com/it Givenchy Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm

Fay Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 15 Ph. +39 02 76017597 fay.com Fedeli Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 8 Ph. +39 02 76023392 fedelicashmere.com Fendi Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 3 Ph. +39 02 76021617 fendi.com/it Ferrari Store Monday to Sunday 10 am to 8 pm Via Giovanni Berchet, 2 Ph. +39 02 49490815 ferraristore.com Gallia e Peter Tuesday to Friday 10 am to 12.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 6.30 pm; Monday 2.30 pm to 6.30 pm; Saturday by appointment Via della Moscova, 60 Ph. +36 02 76002628 170

SHOPPING

Via Sant’Andrea, 11 Ph. +39 02 78623710 givenchy.com Gucci Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 5/7 Ph.+39 02 771271 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Ph-+39 02 8597991 gucci.com Guess Monday to Sunday 9.30 am to 9 pm Piazza S. Babila, 4/B Ph. +39 02 76392070 guess.eu Hermès Monday to Saturday 10.15 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 12 Ph. +39 02 76003495 hermes.com Herno Monday 10 am to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 12 Ph. +39 02 94432789 herno.it

Hugo Boss Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Corso Matteotti, 11 Ph.+39 02 76394667 hugoboss.com Il Gufo Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via S. Pietro all’Orto, 22 Ph. +39 02 37059805 ilgufo.it I Pinco Pallino Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 42 Ph+39 02 798196 pincopallino.it Isaia Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm Via Pietro Verri, 8 Ph. +39 02 36696931 isaia.it Jil Sander Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Pietro Verri, 6 Ph. + 39 02 7772991 jilsander.com

171

SHOPPING

Ph. +39 02 76280466 Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7 pm Largo Treves,4 Ph. +39 02 86462847 larabesque.net La Martina Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Pietro Verri, 4 Ph. +39 02 76281351 lamartina.com La Perla Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7pm Via Monte Napoleone, 14 Ph.+39 02 76000460 laperla.com La Rinascente Monday to Thursday 9.30 am to 9 pm; Friday and Saturday 9.30 am to 10 pm; Sunday 10 am to 9 pm Piazza Duomo Ph.+39 02 88521 rinascente.it Lanvin Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 25 Ph. +39 02 97687091 lanvin.com Larusmiani Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10.30 am

John Richmond Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7.30pm Via Bigli, 2 corner Via Pietro Verri Ph.+39 02 76028173 johnrichmond.com Kenzo Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Manzoni, 25 Ph.+39 02 72080735 kenzo.com Kiton Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Gesù, 11 Ph. +39 02 76390240 kiton.it Krizia Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 23 Ph.+39 02 45377030 krizia.it L’Arabesque Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7 pm Largo Augusto, 10 Ph. +39 02 76014825 Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7 pm Via Francesco Sforza, 4 172

SHOPPING

to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 7 Ph. +39 02 76006957 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 7 pm Via Pietro Verri, 10 Ph. +39 02 76020470 larusmiani.it Liu Jo Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 8 pm Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 30 Ph. +39 02 76317858 liujo.com Loewe Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 21 Ph. +39 02 76340533 loewe.com Loro Piana Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 27 Ph.+39 02 7772901 loropiana.com/it Louis Vuitton Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm

Via Monte Napoleone, 2 Ph.+39 02 7771711 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 2 Ph.+39 02 7771711 louisvuitton.com Luciano Barbera Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via GesĂš, 9 Ph. +36 02 36737676 lucianobarbera.com Luisa Beccaria Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Formentini, 1 corner Via Fior Chiari, 17/A Ph. +39 02 801417 luisabeccaria.it Luisa Spagnoli Monday to Sunday 10 am to 8 pm Corso Vittorio Emanuele - Galleria S. Carlo Ph. +39 02 795064 luisaspagnoli.it

173

SHOPPING

M. Bardelli Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Monday 3 pm to 7.30 pm Corso Magenta, 13 Ph. +39 02 86450734 mbardelli.com Maliparmi Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Monday 3 pm to 7 pm Via Solferino, 3 Ph. +39 02 72093899 maliparmi.com/it Malo Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 18 Ph. +39 02 76016109 malo.it Marni Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 12 Ph. +39 02 76317327 marni.com Max Mara Monday to Sunday 10 am to 8 pm Corso Vittorio Emanuele II corner Piazza del Liberty, 4 Ph. +39 02 76008849 it.maxmara.com

Max&Co Monday to Sunday 10 am to 8 pm Corso Vittorio Emanuele II corner Piazza del Liberty, 4 Ph. +39 02 780433 it.maxandco.com Michael Kors Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 8 Ph. +39 02 76341381 michaelkors.it Missoni Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 8 (entrance Via Santâ€™Andrea) Ph. +39 02 76003555 missoni.com/it M-Missoni Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Corso Venezia, 2 Ph. +39 02 36510974 m-missoni.com/it Miu Miu Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Santâ€™Andrea, 21 Ph. +39 02 76001799 miumiu.com 174

SHOPPING

Ph. +39 02 89075909 antoniomarras.it North Sail Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 1.30 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm Via Durini, 27 Ph. +39 02 76317225 northsails.com P.a.r.o.s.h. Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30pm Via Santo Spirito, 14 Ph. +39 02 76015801 parosh.com Pal Zileri Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Manzoni, 20 Ph. +39 02 76394680 palzileri.com Paolo Moretti Pelle e Pellicce Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Passaggio Duomo, 2 Ph. +39 02 804709 - fur.it Patrizia Pepe Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Manzoni, 38 Ph. +39 02 76014477 patriziapepe.com

Moncler Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm

Via Monte Napoleone, 1 Ph. +39 02 76341316 Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 7 Ph. + 39 02 76025913 moncler.com Moschino Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Santâ€™Andrea, 25 Ph. +39 02 76022639 moschino.com Love Moschino Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Corso Venezia, 2 Ph. +39 02 84256142 moschino.com/it Neil Barrett Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm Via Santo Spirito, 25 Ph.+39 02 49518850 neilbarrett.com Nonostante Marras Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Cola di Rienzo, 8 Ph. +39 02 89075002 175

SHOPPING

Paul Smith Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Manzoni, 30 Ph. +39 02 76319181 paulsmith.com Philipp Plein Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 21/A Ph. +39 02 45388329 world.philipp-plein.com Billionaire by Philipp Plein Monday 2 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Sunday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via della Spiga, 25 Ph. +39 02 76002098 billionairecouture.com Pinko Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm

Prada Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm

Via Monte Napoleone, 8 Ph.+39 02 7771771 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 6 Ph.+39 02 76020273 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 18 corner Via S. Andrea, 23 Ph.+39 02 780465 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 62 Ph.+39 02 87211450 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 63-65 Ph.+39 02 876979 prada.com Pupi Solari Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Piazza Tommaseo, 2

Via Monte Napoleone, 26 Ph. +39 02 76014184 pinko.it Porsche Design Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 42 Ph. +39 02 798790 porsche-design.com 176

SHOPPING

to 7 pm

Ph. +39 02 463325 pupisolari.com Raffaella Curiel Monday to Friday 9 am to 7 pm Corso Giacomo Matteotti, 14 raffaellacuriel.com Rick Owens Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte di Pietà, 13 Ph. +39 02 45386030 rickowens.eu Roberto Cavalli Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 6 Ph. +39 02 7630771 robertocavalli.com Just Cavalli Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Corso Matteotti, 18 Ph. +39 02 76280740 just.robertocavalli.com Roy Rogers Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11am to 7pm Corso Venezia, 8 Ph. +39 02 76340622 royrogers.it Rubinacci Monday to Saturday 10 am

Via Monte Napoleone, 18 corner Via del Gesù, 1 Ph. +39 02 76001564 marianorubinacci.net Saint Laurent Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 21 Ph. +39 02 76000573 ysl.com Salvatore Ferragamo Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 3 Ph. +39 02 76000054 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 20/4 Ph. +39 02 76006660 ferragamo.com Sartoria A. Caraceni Monday to Friday 9 am to 12.30 pm and 3 pm to 6.30 pm Via Fatebenefratelli, 16 Ph. +39 02 6551972 a-caraceni.com

177

SHOPPING

Ph. +39 02 29003365 siniscalchicamiciesumisura.com Stefano Ricci Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 3 pm to 7 pm Via GesĂš, 3 Ph. +39 02 798588 stefanoricci.com Stella McCartney Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via Santo Spirito, 3 Ph.+39 02 76281222 stellamccartney.com Stone Island Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Corso Venezia, 12 Ph. +39 02 76001409 stoneisland.com Tindaro De Luca Monday to Friday 9 am to 6 pm Via GesĂš, 15 Ph. +39 02 794394 Tom Ford Monday to Saturday from 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Pietro Verri, 3 Ph. +39 02 36529600 tomford.com Tory Burch Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday noon to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 7

Sartoria Rossi Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday10 am to 13 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm Piazza del Duomo Ph. +39 02 86460919 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday10 am to 13 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm Piazza del Liberty, 1 Ph. +39 02 80501933 sartoriarossi.it Serapian Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 7 pm Via Della Spiga, 42 Ph. +39 02 76024451 serapian.com Sermoneta Gloves Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 7.30 pm Via della Spiga, 46 Ph. +39 02 76318303 sermonetagloves.com Simonetta Ravizza Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 1 Ph. +39 02 76012921 simonettaravizza.it Siniscalchi Camicie su misura By appointment Viale Vittorio Veneto, 32 178

SHOPPING

Monday to Sunday from 10 am to 7 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 33/35 Ph. +39 02 8901 1479 versace.com Versace Collection Monday to Sunday from 10 am to 7 pm Corso Matteotti, 10 Ph. +39 02 7601 4969 Vilebrequin Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 33 corner Via Manzoni Ph. +39 02 7634 0099 it.vilebrequin.com Vionnet Tuesday to Saturday from 10 am to 7 pm Corso Monforte, 16 Ph. +39 02 4968 2563 vionnet.com Wait and See Monday 3.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Santa Marta, 14 Ph. +39 02 7208 0195 waitandsee.it

Ph. +39 02 76319028 toryburch.it Trussardi Monday to Sunday 10 am to 8 pm Piazza della Scala, 5 Ph. +39 02 80688242 trussardi.com Uman By appointment Via GesĂš, 10 Ph. +39 02 7787741 umanconcept.com Valentino Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 20 Ph. +39 02 76006182 valentino.com Red Valentino Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Corso Venezia, 6 Ph. +39 02 36756030 redvalentino.com Versace Monday to Sunday from 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 11 Ph. +39 02 7600 8528 179

SHOPPING

WP Store Monday to Sunday from 10.30 am to 7.30 pm

SHOES & ACCESSORIES Alfonso Garlando Monday 12.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm Via Madonnina, 1 Ph. +39 02 874665 alfonsogarlando.it Angelo Fusco Tuesday to Saturday 11 am to 1.30 pm and 3.30 pm to 7 pm; Monday 3.30 pm to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 25 Ph. +39 02 76318933 Ash Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 7.30 pm Via Madonnina, 2 Ph. +39 02 72094198 ashitalia.it Baldinini Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 25 Ph. +39 02 76280549 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Pietro Verri corner Piazza Meda, 3/5 Ph. +39 02 783481 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8

Via Borgogna, 3 Ph. +39 02 7600 4694 wpstore.com Zadig & Voltaire Monday to Saturday from 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Santo Spirito, 18 Ph. +39 02 7639 0404 zadig-et-voltaire.com

180

SHOPPING

pm; Sunday 11 am to 7.30 pm Piazza San Babila, 1/3 Ph. +39 02 76341368 baldinini-shop.com Ballin Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Santo Spirito, 5 Ph. +39 02 76020183 ballin-shoes.it Bally Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 2 pm to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 8 Ph. +39 02 76008406 bally.it Berluti Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 16 Ph. +39 02 77877011 berluti.com Borsalino Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 5 Ph. +39 02 76017072 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 10 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 92 Ph. +39 02 89015436 borsalino.com/it

CB Made in Italy Monday to Friday 9.30 am to 6.30 pm; Saturday 10.30 am to 7 pm Corso Garibaldi, 50 Ph. +39 02 36639181 cbmadeinitaly.com Cesare Paciotti Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 8 Ph. +39 02 76001338 cesare-paciotti.com Church’s Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 11 Ph. +39 02 76318794 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Tommaso Marino, 7 Ph. +39 02 72094454 church-footwear.com Cruciani Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7.30 pm Via Manzoni, 19 Ph. +39 02 89093864 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7.30 pm Via Pietro Verri corner Via Bigli Ph. +39 02 76021502 cruciani.net 181

SHOPPING

Del Carlo Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Borgospesso, 25 Ph. +39 02 782184 delcarlo.it Devi Kroell Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 21 Ph. +39 02 36769580 devikroell.com E. Marinella Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Manzoni, 23 Ph. +39 02 89010842 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Santa Maria Alla Porta, 5 Ph. +39 02 86467036 marinellanapoli.it Fratelli Rossetti Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7pm Via Monte Napoleone, 1 Ph. +39 02 76021650 fratellirossetti.com Furla Monday to Sunday 10 am to 8.30 pm Piazza Duomo, 31 Ph. +39 02 89096794 furla.com

Gallo Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm A Via Manzoni, 16 Ph. +39 02 783602 theartofgallo.it Gherardini Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 5 gherardini.it Gianvito Rossi Monday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via Santo Spirito, 7 Ph. +39 02 76280988 gianvitorossi.com Giuseppe Zanotti Design Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 8 Ph.+ 39 02 76280759 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 22 Ph.+ 39 02 76316808 giuseppezanotti.com Gusella Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 31 182

SHOPPING

Ph.+39 02 76340778 gusella.com/it Hogan Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 5 Ph. +39 02 76011174 hogan.com Italia Independent Monday to Sunday 10 pm to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 19 Ph. +39 02 78623358 italiaindependent.com Jimmy Choo Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Santâ€™Andrea, 1/A Ph. +39 02 45481770 jimmychoo.com Kurt Geiger Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 3 Ph. +39 02 76539455 kurtgeiger.com Longchamp Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 6 Ph. +39 02 84932705 it.longchamp.com Montblanc Monday to Saturday 10 am

to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 27/B Ph. +39 02 76317720 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Corso Vercelli, 1 Ph. +39 02 48005078 montblanc.com Pellux Monday to Saturday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Piazza San Fedele, 2 Ph. +39 02 864104 pellux.it Porselli Monday 3 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 9 am to 12.30 pm and 3 pm to 7.30 pm Piazza Ferrari, 6 Ph. +39 02 8053759 porselli.it RenĂŠ Caovilla Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Bagutta, 28 Ph. +39 02 76319049 renecaovilla.com Rivolta Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 7.30 pm Via della Spiga, 17 Ph. +39 02 798751 calzoleriarivolta.com 183

SHOPPING

Rodo Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Corso Matteotti, 14 Ph. +39 02 84928436 rodo.it Roger Vivier Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 17 Ph. +39 02 76025614 rogervivier.com Samsonite Monday to Saturday 10 am t o 7.30 pm; Sunday 3 pm to 7.30 pm Via S. Pietro All’Orto, 11 Ph. +39 02 76020264 samsonite.it Santoni Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 6 Ph. +39 02 76280508 santonishoes.com Sergio Rossi Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 27 Ph. +39 02 76006140 sergiorossi.com

Silvano Lattanzi Monday to Saturday 11 am to 7 pm Via Gesù, 11 Ph. +39 02 76028499 silvanolattanzi.com Spelta Milano Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7.30 pm Via Solferino, 1 Ph. +39 02 86457134 speltamilano.it Stuart Weitzman Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 12 pm to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 10 Ph. +39 02 36537260 stuartweitzman.com Sutor Mantellassi Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 3 Ph. +39 02 23369074 sutormantellassi.com Tod’s Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 1 pm to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 22 Ph. +39 02 76002423 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 184

SHOPPING

Ph. +39 02 877997 tods.com Tumi Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 7 pm Via Pietro Verri, 3 Ph. +39 02 76004830 tumi.com Valextra Monday to Saturday from 10am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am 7 pm Via Manzoni, 3 Ph. +39 02 99786060 valextra.com

JEWELLERY Audemars Piguet Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 6 Ph. +39 02 76003115 audemarspiguet.com Bernardini Monday 3.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 1.30 pm and 3.30 pm to 7.30 pm Via Caradosso, 2 Ph. +39 02 4818697 bernardinimilano.com Breguet Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 19 Ph. +39 02 76007756 breguet.com Buccellati Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 23 Ph. +39 02 76002154 buccellati.com Bulgari Monday and Sunday 11 am to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 2 Ph. +39 02 777001 bulgari.com 185

SHOPPING

Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 19 Ph. +39 02 76318572 franckmuller.com Jaeger - LeCoultre Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11.30 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 1 Ph. +39 02 76281376 jaeger-lecoultre.com Officine Panerai Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 6 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 1 Ph.+ 39 02 36000008 panerai.com Omega Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 9 Ph. +39 02 76000984 omegawatches.com Pellini Monday 2.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Manzoni, 20 Ph. +39 02 76008084 pellini.it Piaget Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm

Cartier Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 16/A Ph. +39 02 3030421 cartier.it Chantecler Capri Monday 2.30 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7 pm Via Santo Spirito, 5 Ph. +39 02 3701 1903 chantecler.it Chopard Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 14 Ph. +39 02 76394950 chopard.it Damiani Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7pm; Sunday 11am to 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 7pm Via Monte Napoleone, 10 Ph. +39 02 76028088 damiani.com Dodo Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Monday and Sunday 11 am to 7.30 pm Corso Matteotti, 9 Ph. +39 02 49524750 dodo.it Franck Muller Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; 186

SHOPPING

Ph. +39 02 76002978 sabbadini.com Tiffany & Co Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via della Spiga, 19/A Ph. +39 02 76022321 Monday to Sunday 10 am to 8 pm Piazza del Duomo corner Via Ugo Foscolo Ph. +39 02 89094202 tiffany.it Van Cleef & Arpels Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 10 Ph. +39 02 7767951 vancleefarpels.com Vhernier Monday to Saturday from 10.30 am to 7 pm; Sunday 13.30 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 21 Ph. +39 02 77331560 vhernier.it Villa Milano Monday 3pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Manzoni, 23 Ph. +39 02 804279 villa.it

Via Pietro Verri, 10 Ph. +39 02 32164701 piaget.com Pisa Orologeria Flagship Store Monday 10.30 am to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Pietro Verri, 7 Ph. +39 02 762081 pisagioielleria.com Pomellato Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via S. Pietro all’Orto, 17 Ph. +39 02 76006086 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm, Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 17 Ph. +39 02 7601 4530 pomellato.com Rolex Boutique Pisa Orologeria Monday 10.30 am to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 24 Ph. +39 02 76317726 rolex.com Sabbadini Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday from 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 8 187

SHOPPING

Wednesday and Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via Manzoni, 43 Ph. +39 02 6596361 bellora1883.com Bialetti Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7.30 pm Piazza Duomo, 17 Ph. +39 02 23369408 bialetti.it Boffi Monday 10 am to 6 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Solferino, 11 Ph. +39 02 879099100 boffi-solferino.com Bose Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via S. Pietro allâ€™Orto, 7 Ph. +39 02 76280535 bose.it Cargo Milano - HighTech Monday 1.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Piazza XXV Aprile, 12 Ph: +39 02 6241101 cargomilano.it Cassina Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm

DESIGN & HOME Alessi Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Manzoni, 14/16 Ph. +39 02 795726 alessi.com Armani Casa Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Corso Venezia, 14 Ph. +39 02 7626 0230 armanicasa.com Artemide Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Corso Monforte, 19 Ph. +39 02 76006930 artemide.com B&B Italia Store Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Durini, 14 Ph. +39 02 764441 bebitalia.com Barovier&Toso Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Durini, 5 Ph. +39 02 76000906 barovier.com Bellora Monday and Tuesday 10 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm; 188

SHOPPING

Via Durini, 16 Ph. +39 02 76020745 cassina.com Christofle Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Corso Venezia, 6 Ph. +39 02 781948 eu.christofle.com De Padova Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Santa Cecilia, 7 Ph. +39 02 777201 depadova.com Dimorae Monday to Friday 10 am to 6 pm Via A. Dugnani, 4 Ph. +39 02 48011803 dimorae.it Driade Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Borgogna, 8 Ph. +39 02 799957 driade.com Flos Monday 3 am to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Corso Monforte, 9 Ph. +39 02 37011080 flos.com

Fornasetti Tuesday to Friday 2 pm to 7 pm; Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Corso Matteotti 1/A Ph. +39 02 89658040 Monday 3 am to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Corso Venezia, 21/A corner Via Senato Ph. +39 02 84 16 13 74 fornasetti.com Frette Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 6 pm Via della Spiga, 31 Ph. +39 02 783950 frette.com Kartell Monday 3 am to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Carlo Porta n.1 corner Via Filippo Turati Ph. +39 02 6597916 kartell.com

189

SHOPPING

to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Piazzetta Croce Rossa, 2 Ph. +39 02 86998767 tearose.it Valli Tessuti Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7pm Via Verdi, 2 Ph. +39 02 76001986 vallitessuti.com Venini Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm Via Monte Napoleone, 10 Ph. +39 02 76000539 venini.com Vetrerie di Empoli Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 22 Ph. +39 02 76008791 vetreriediempoli.it

Poliform Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm Piazza Cavour, 2 Ph. +39 02 76318619 poliform.it Rossana Orlandi Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Matteo Bandello, 14/16 Ph. +39 02 4674471 rossanaorlandi.com Sahrai Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Manzoni, 45 Ph. +39 02 8690570 sahrai.com Sawaya & Moroni Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 7.30 pm Via Manzoni, 11 Ph. +39 02 86395200 sawayamoroni.com Society Limonta Monday 3 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7 pm Via Palermo, 1 Ph. +39 02 72080453 societylimonta.com Tearose Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday 190

SHOPPING

opening on every third Sunday of the month 12 am to 2 pm and 2.30 pm to 7.30 pm Via Madonnina, 17 Ph. +39 02 3670 5120 boutiquecreedmilano.it Culti Milano Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 2 pm; 3 pm to 7.30 pm Corso Venezia, 53 Ph. +39 02 83986600 Tuesday to Sunday 10.30 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7.30pm Via Fiori Chiari, 6 Ph. +39 02 3655 3875 culti.com Dr. Vranjes Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Fiori Chiari, 24 Ph. +39 02 89010492 drvranjes.com Etro Fragrances Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm Via Pietro Verri, corner Via Bigli, 2 Ph. +39 02 76005450 etro.com

BEAUTY Acqua di Parma Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via GesÃ¹, 1 corner Via Monte Napoleone Ph. +39 02 76023307 acquadiparma.com Aesop Brera Monday 12.30 am to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Piazza del Carmine, 1 Ph. +39 02 89095356 Aesop Magenta Monday 12.30 am to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Meravigli, 18 Ph. +39 02 89011560 aesop.com British Box Monday 3 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 1 pm and 2.30 pm to 7.30 pm Via Melzo, 34 Ph. +39 02 29517575 britishbox.it Creed Monday 3.30 am to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 2.00 pm and 3 pm to 7.30 pm; 191

SHOPPING

Jo Malone Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 3 pm to 7.30 pm Via Manzoni, 18 Ph. +39 02 76341313 jomalone.com Officina Profumo Farmaceutica Santa Maria Novella Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via Madonnina, 11 Ph. +39 02 36519630 smnovella.it Profumeria della Vecchia Milano Monday to Saturday 9 am to 7 pm Via San Giovanni sul Muro, 8 Ph. +39 02 86451669 Profumerie Mazzolari Monday to Saturday 9 am to 7.30 pm Piazzetta Umberto Giordano, 4 Ph. +39 02 76000063 mazzolari.info Profumo Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Brera, 6 Ph. +39 02 72023334 profumomilano.com

BOOKSHOP Armani Libri Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via Manzoni, 31 corner Via Croce Rossa Ph. +39 02 72318675 buchhandlung-walther-koenig.de Corso Como Bookshop Friday to Tuesday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm, Wednesday and Thursday 10.30 am to 9 pm Corso Como, 10 Ph. +39 02 654831 10corsocomo.com Feltrinelli Duomo Monday to Thursday 9.30 am to 9.30 pm; Friday and Saturday 9.30 am to 10 pm; Sunday 10 am to 8 pm Piazza Duomo angolo Via Ugo Foscolo, 1/3Â Ph. +39 199 151173 lafeltrinelli.it Gogol & Company Monday to Sunday 9 am to 10 pm Via Savona, 101 Ph. +39 02 45470449 gogolandcompany.com Libreria dellâ€™automobile Monday 2.30 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am 192

SHOPPING

to 12.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm Corso Venezia, 45 Ph. +39 02 76006624 libreriadellautomobile.it Libreria dello Sport Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Friday 10 am to 1.30 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm; Saturday 10 am to 12.30 am and 3.30 pm to 7 pm Via Carducci, 9 Ph. +39 02 8055355 libreriadellosport.it Libreria Internazionale Ulrico Hoepli Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via Ulrico Hoepli, 5 Ph. +39 02 864871 hoepli.it Libreria Rizzoli Galleria Monday to Saturday 9 am to 8 pm; Thursday 9 am to 10 pm; Sunday 10 am to 8 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 79 Ph. +39 02 86461071 rizzoligalleria.it Mondadori Monday to Sunday 9 am to 11 pm Piazza Duomo, 1 Ph. +39 02 45441113

mondadoristore.it Red - Feltrinelli Monday to Thursday 7.30 am to 11pm; Friday 7.30 am to midnight; Saturday 10 am to midnight; Sunday 10 am to 11pm Piazza Gae Aulenti, 1 Ph. +39 199 151 173 lafeltrinelli.it Taschen Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Meravigli, 17 Ph. +39 02 8434 5013 taschen.com The American Bookstore Monday 1.30 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7 pm Via Camperio, 16 Ph. +39 02 878920 americanbookstore.it Triennale Bookstore Monday, Tuesday, Sunday 10 am to 9 pm; Wednesday to Saturday 10 am to 11 pm Viale Emilio Alemagna, 6 Ph. +39 02 72018128 triennale.org

193

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

OUR CHEFâ€™S FAVOURITES

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

194

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

7.30 pm to midnight Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

FINE DINING Contraste Inaugurated in 2015 in an early Nineteenth-century villa, this is the restaurant of Uruguayan Michelin star chef Matias Perdomo, Argentine sous chef Simon Press and Italian maître Thomas Piras. Experimental, studied dishes presented in three formulas: an á la carte menu, a six-course tasting menu and a “reflection” menu, with 10 tastings chosen by the chef based on the diner’s preferences. The wine list includes noble labels and flashes of brilliance. Monday and Wednesday to Saturday 7.30 pm to 11.30 pm; Sunday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm Via Giuseppe Meda, 2 ph. +39 02 49536597 contrastemilano.it

Enrico Bartolini - Mudec Chef Enrico Bartolini and his “contemporary classic” cuisine are the stars of this two Michelin star restaurant on the third floor of Milan’s Museum of Cultures. Alongside great classics like “beetroot and gorgonzola risotto” and “bottoni filled with oil and lime” are also tasting menus and daily specials retracing local Italian gastronomic traditions. Tuesday to Saturday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 10.30 pm Monday open for dinner Via Tortona, 56 Ph. +39 02 84293701 enricobartolini.net

Cracco The famous chef Carlo Cracco has changed address and moved into Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Scheduled to open in February 2018. Tuesday to Friday 12.30 pm to 3 pm; Monday to Saturday 195

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

influence of the chef’s Eastern travels is tangible. Monday to Saturday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 11 pm Via Castaldi, 18 Ph. +39 02 2049244 / 02 29522124 joia.it

Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia This restaurant, which boasts two Michelin stars, is a gastronomic journey around Italy. Opened in the Sixties by Aimo and Nadia, now it’s run by chefs Fabio Pisani and Alessandro Negrini. Old favourites like “spaghetti with green onions” are still on the menu, as well as reworked dishes such as “mountain veal carpaccio infused with ginger, anchovy sauce and turnip green jus”. Monday to Friday 12.30 pm to 2 pm and 7.30 pm to 10.30 pm Saturday open for dinner Via privata Montecuccoli, 6 Ph. +39 02 416886 aimoenadia.com

Lume Opened in 2016, this has swiftly become one of the city’s most respected restaurants thanks to the elegant location, once a Richard Ginori factory, and Michelin star chef Luigi Taglienti’s cuisine. Two tasting menus are available, as well as the à la carte menu: one is more traditional, influenced by Milan, the other more experimental. Trademark: the lemon. The “Black and white squid” is iconic. You can reserve a private room for 12 persons. Tuesday to Saturday noon to 2 pm and 7.30 pm to 10 pm; Sunday noon to 2 pm Via Giacomo Watt, 37 Ph. +39 02 80888624 lumemilano.com

Joia The only vegetarian restaurant in Italy to hold a Michelin star. Chef Pietro Leemann and his philosophy of natural haute cuisine are the reasons for this success. Cult dishes include “panzanella with crunchy vegetables and cannellini centre with wasabi on a bed of saffron” and “raspberries, strawberries and tomatoes with balsamic vinegar and green pepper”. The 196

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

Ristorante Morelli This is the new Milanese restaurant from chef Giancarlo Morelli. Sophisticated ambience and stylish furnishings. Two irresistible examples: “Scallop, celeriac with parsley and Volzhenka caviar” and “Persimmon soup, elderflower gelato, sbrisolona and almond crust”. The chef’s table is a unique experience, available upon reservation, where surprise menus are served (on request, in the presence of the chef). In the same location, check out the more informal Bulk, a mixology bar and bistrot with garden. Restaurant: Monday to Saturday 7.30 to 11 pm Bulk: Sunday to Thursday 11 to 1 am; Friday and Saturdays 11 to 2 am Via Aristotile Fioravanti, 4 Ph. +39 02 80010918 morellimilano.it

ern and light. “Modern, ever-evolving cuisine” is how he likes to define his fish-focused cooking. Signature dishes include “pan fried crustaceans, charcoal violet artichokes and tarragon foam”. Intimate private dining room for two. Monday to Saturday 7.30 to 11pm Via Cardinale Ascanio Sforza, 77 Ph. +39 02 5810 4451 sadler.it

Sadler Claudio Sadler, the internationally renowned chef, has a purposeful objective every time he crafts a dish: it must be delicious, attractive, mod197

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

Monday to Friday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 10.30 pm Saturday open for dinner Via Andegari, 9 Ph. +39 02 87318897 mandarinoriental.com

Seta Restaurant Opened in 2015, it immediately jumped to the heights of haute cuisine. Sought-after recognition came quickly, due to direction by one of Italy’s most acclaimed chefs, Antonio Guida, who won his second Michelin star in less than three years. The menu embraces sea and land, North and South (starting with Puglia, the chef’s homeland), with exotic influences, in an array of dishes in which the quality of ingredients and the immediacy of flavors reign supreme. The restaurant’s floor-to-ceiling windows look out onto the hotel courtyard, achieving a striking continuum between the inner and outer spaces. Even the kitchen looks outside, allowing diners to see the chef at work, who with executive sous chef Federico Dell’Omarino, pastry chef Nicola Di Lena and his team puts his spin on Italian cuisine, such as “rice Cagnone style with vegetables, Maccagno cheese and raspberry dust”, one of the dishes dedicated to Milan.

Sikélaia A refined corner of Sicily a short distance from the Indro Montanelli Gardens. Fish is front and centre, although meat-based dishes are also available. Traditional Sicilian cooking, full in flavours, reworked in a lighter and more gourmet interpretation by Chef Federico La Paglia. Mouthwatering options include “sliced amberjack with bitter orange sauce” and “Sicilian broccoli ravioli with mussels and clams”. Tuesday to Saturday noon to 4:30 pm and 7 pm to 10:30 pm Via Marco Polo, 10 Ph. +39 02 29014556 ristorantesikelaia.it Teatro alla Scala Il Marchesino Next to Teatro alla Scala, this is the superlative restau198

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

brand, such as extra-virgin olive oil to caviar. Star dishes are always “Spaghetti cacao and pepe with sea urchins” and “Risotto Milanese style with veal sweetbreads”. Monday to Friday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 8 pm to 10.30 pm Saturday open for dinner Piazza della Scala, 5 Ph. +39 02 80688201 trussardiallascala.com

rant of the inventor of Italian haute cuisine, chef Gualtiero Marchesi, who passed away recently, leaving an incredible legacy. You choose the menu from the iPad, and for Teatro alla Scala goers there’s a service pre- and post-theatre. Amuse-bouche: “saffron rice spheres breaded in polenta flour and fried”. Monday to Friday noon to 2.30 pm and 8.30 pm to 10.30 pm Saturday open for dinner Piazza della Scala corner Via Filodrammatici, 2 Ph. +39 02 72094338 marchesi.it

Vun A refined gastronomic experience by two Michelin star chef Andrea Aprea, a true Neapolitan. In his dishes echoes of his city’s traditions blend with nuances from all over Italy. For a taste, try “caprese… sweet salted” or “Riserva Carnaroli San Massimo rice, scampi, lemon, rosemary and capers”. Private room for 10 people. Tuesday to Saturday 7 pm to 10.30 pm Via Silvio Pellico, 3 Ph. +39 02 88211234 ristorante-vun.it

Trussardi alla Scala A brand extension of the well-known Milanese fashion house Trussardi, this is one of the most alluring restaurant in the city due to its elegant ambience and a striking view over Teatro alla Scala and via Manzoni (ask for a table with a view!). In the kitchen Roberto Conti, one of Milan’s liveliest Michelin star chefs. The restaurant plumbs for the finest ingredients in special editions for the “greyhound” 199

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

Via Ravizza, 10 Ph. +39 02 4693206 ba-restaurant.com

A TASTE OF THE WORLD Armani Nobu One of the world’s best chefs, Nobuyuki Matsuhisa reinvents Japanese cooking with South American and Peruvian influences. The restaurant blends the elegance of Giorgio Armani with essential oriental design. Specialities: “black cod with miso” and “tempura prawns”. Monday to Saturday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 11.30 pm open Sunday for dinner Via Pisoni,1 Ph. +39 02 72318645 armanirestaurants.com

Basara Milano During happy hour sliding panels completely change the restaurant’s appearance, which serves a traditional Italian breakfast in the morning and becomes an elegant sushi restaurant at night, with creative delights by the chef Hiro. Cakes and cookies are another reason to drop by, such as “daifuku”, colourful typical Japanese desserts. Saturday to Friday 7.30 am to 3 pm, 7 pm to 12:30 am Via Tortona, 12 Ph. +39 02 83241025 basaramilano.it

Ba - Asian Mood Traditional Chinese cooking in a modern reworking melded with typical Italian ingredients and flavours. A wide variety of dim sum, little tastes of Southern China (such as “braised pork ravioli”), as well as more experimental dishes like “green tea spaghetti with salmon and bottarga”. Tuesday to Sunday noon to 2.45 pm and 7.30 pm to 11.45 pm

Björk A location with two faces. A Swedish deli and behind it a Scandinavian brassiere, where the ingredients of Swedish cooking, like elk, reindeer, herring and salmon, are king. Highlights include “marinated salmon with gravadlax sauce and boiled mignon potatoes” and “mackerel baked with new 200

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

zenda, but the meat is North American, Irish, German and Japanese too. All cuts, including the succulent entraña, are grilled to perfection. In one of the three dining rooms, set around a patio, there’s a corner dedicated to the spectacular slicing of Pata Negra ham. Nobody ever forgets their “lightly smoked Chianina fillet”. Monday to Sunday 7.30 pm to midnight Via Spartaco, 31 Ph. +39 02 54019816 elcarnicero.com

potatoes, mustard and green apples”. Tuesday to Saturday noon to 2.30 pm and 7 pm to 11 pm, Monday open for dinner Via Castaldi, 20 Ph. +39 02 49457424 bjork.it Dim Sum There’s no doubt that the dumplings are the stars here. Chef Wu Jing cooks around 15 types with fillings that range from Chianina beef with scallops to grouper, shrimp and seaweed. New dishes include “Jiaozi with quail egg and Chinese taro wrapped in algae”. An ode to the elegance of Chinese cooking, served here with a fine glass of Perrier Jouët Grand Brut or a more traditional cup of tea. Monday to Sunday noon to 2.30 pm and 7 pm to 11 pm Via Bixio, 29 corner Via Pisacane Ph. +39 02 29522821 dim-sum.it

El Porteño Arena Serving up Argentinian specialities within walking distance from the Arena Civica di Parco Sempione. Aside from the famous Argentinian barbecued meats, don’t miss out on other traditional dishes like “empanadas”, “chicken en escabeche” or, for dessert, “dulce de leche”. Monday to Sunday 7.30 pm to midnight Viale Elvezia, 4 Ph. +39 02 34537275 elporteno.it

El Carnicero The ambience is reminiscent of a traditional Argentinian fa201

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

Ph. +39 02 76023873 gongmilano.it

Finger’s Garden A young fashionable restaurant with a beautiful Far Eaststyle garden. Chef-owner Roberto Okabe moves with ease between raw fish dishes, like the superb mixed sashimi, and original fusion creations, to which he sometimes adds a Brazilian touch. Monday to Saturday 8 pm to midnight Via Keplero, 2 Ph. +39 02 606544 fingersrestaurants.com

Iyo Behind the elegant sushi bar of this Michelin-starred restaurant are chefs Michele Biassoni and Masaki Okada. Starting with Japanese classics, the dishes evolve into creative westernized interpretations like “Kakisu”: Normandy oysters, oyster jelly and kombu, daikon granita with rice vinegar and yuzu, algae and oyster leaves. Service is warm and attentive. Wednesday to Sunday 12.15 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 11.30 pm; Tuesday open for dinner Via Piero della Francesca, 74 Ph. +39 02 45476898 iyo.it

Gong A large open space with an Oriental but modern attitude. The cuisine of chefs Keisuke Koga and Guglielmo Paolucci rediscovers the shared heritage of China and Japan, serving dishes like “Hamachi in a smoky dome” or “Mojito sturgeon”. For fine wine lovers, the list curated by sommelier Roberto Riccardo Tornabene is an unforgettable experience. Monday 7.30 to 23.40 pm; Tuesday to Sunday 12.30 to 2.30 pm and 7.30 to 11.40 pm Corso Concordia, 8

Pacifico The first outpost of Peruvian food culture in Italy. Chef Jaime Pesaque has gone one step further, however, specializing in Peruvian and Asiatic fusion, aka “Nikkei”. The restaurant serves mostly fish dishes, although some meat options are available. A word to the wise: Pesaque’s “ceviche” is world-famous. 202

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

Monday to Sunday 12.30 to 3 pm, 7.30 to 11:30 pm Via San Marco corner of Via Moscova Ph. +39 02 8724 4737 wearepacifico.it Saigon Inlaid oak flooring, tropical plants and Viennese cane stools. A restaurant in perfect colonial style, where you can enjoy slightly revisited authentic Vietnamese food. Try the “bo luc lac”, wok-sauteed beef fillet with oyster sauce and vegetables, or “shao tom”, prawn skewers with cane sugar served with a plum sauce. Monday to Saturday 7.30 pm to 2 am Via Archimede, 53 Ph. +39 02 70101966 lucaguelficompany.com

el” and the dessert “cement and earth”, Jerusalem artichoke gelato with mascarpone cream, herbs and meringue. Tuesday to Saturday 7 pm to 10.30 pm; Sunday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7 pm to 10.30 pm (closed in July and August 2018) Via San Calocero, 3 Ph. +39 02 84254626 ristorantetokuyoshi.com Vasiliki Kouzina It’s a dream come true for Vasiliki, Greek by birth, Milanese by adoption. Pompeii red walls, brass tables and counters, green velvet couches, glasses and a menu inspired by traditional Greek cooking with Balkan and Mediterranean influences. Vasiliki’s own “octopus in honey” is excellent. The street number matches the building opposite the restaurant, but you can’t miss it. Monday to Friday 7 pm to midnight; Saturday and Sunday 12.30 pm to 15.30 pm and 7 pm to midnight Via Clusone, 6 Ph. +39 02 94381405 vasilikikouzina.com

Tokuyoshi Italian tradition and Japanese technique are the cornerstones of the innovative cooking by Yoji Tokuyoshi, who after several high-profile positions became the chef-owner of this Michelin-starred restaurant, crafting modern and original dishes. Take the “Gyotaku Macker203

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

Wicky’s The kingdom of chef-owner Wicky Priyan and one of the best Asian restaurants in Italy. Preparation, pairings, sauces and cooking are all impeccable. The sushi is always sensational, so too are the excellent cooked dishes like the “tuna triangle”, seared tuna with Punjab pepper sauce, Japanese mustard, ginger and olive oil. Tuesday to Friday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 10.30 pm; Monday and Saturday open for dinner Corso Italia, 6 Ph. +39 02 89093781 wicuisine.it

TRADITIONAL MILANESE COOKING AND TRATTORIAS Al Coniglio Bianco With an outdoor seating area overlooking the Naviglio Grande, this is a place for all those seeking true Milanese fare. Seafood dishes are on offer alongside traditional dishes like “osso buco with saffron risotto”. There’s just one golden rule here: use of the finest, freshest ingredients. Monday to Friday 7 pm to 11 pm Saturday and Sunday 12.30 pm to 3 pm Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 12 Ph. +39 02 58100910 alconigliobianco.it Antica Osteria Cavallini On the menu, the best of tradition accompanied by sought-after fish dishes. Next to “risotto alla Milanese” you’ll find “risotto with prawns and Tuscan kale sauce” while mains include “veal cutlet” and “squid with radicchio”. The large covered garden is lovely. Monday to Friday and Sunday noon to 3 pm and 7 pm 204

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

to midnight; Saturday open for dinner Via Mauro Macchi, 2 Ph. +39 02 6693174 anticaosteriacavallini.it

Arengario, located in the Museo del Novecento. Monday to Sunday 12.30 to 2.30 pm and 7 pm to midnight Via Pasquale Sottocorno, 6 corner of via Cellini, 30 Ph. +39 02 76023313 Giacomo Bistrot Monday to Friday noon to 3 pm, 7 pm to midnight Saturday and Sunday noon to midnight Via Pasquale Sottocorno, 6 Ph. +39 02 76022653 Giacomo Arengario (at Museo del Novecento) Monday to Sunday noon to midnight Via Guglielmo Marconi, 1 Ph. +39 02 72093814

Antica Trattoria della Pesa A historic pantheon of Milanese and Lombard cooking (risotto al salto, ossobuco, cazzoeula and many other local specialties including typical desserts like hot zabaglione). Established in 1880, itâ€™s one of the oldest restaurants in Milan and still preserves that simple yet refined ambience of the past. Monday to Saturday 12.30 to 2.30 pm and 7.30 to 11 pm Viale Pasubio, 10 Ph. +39 02 6555741 anticatrattoriadellapesa.com Da Giacomo The ambience is reminiscent of an early twentieth-century Milanese trattoria, while the restaurant is famous for its outstanding fish cuisine, from tuna to scampi, spider crab to bream. To sink your teeth into some meat, the answer is next door: Giacomo Bistrot. Also by the same family, try Giacomo 205

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

2.30 pm and 7.45 pm to 10.30 pm Sunday open for dinner Via Brisa, 15 Ph. +39 02 86450521 ristorantelabrisa.it

La Briciola The host is Gianni, who with his wife Stefania opened this warm and welcoming restaurant that serves a menu celebrating Italian and Mediterranean cuisine with a few international flourishes. For antipasto try a delicious “pizzetta with buffalo milk stracciatella” or the “avocado in vinaigrette”. Tuesday to Saturday 12.45 to 2 pm, 7.45 to 11 pm; Monday open for dinner Via Marsala, 2 corner of via Solferino, 25 Ph. +39 02 6551012 / 02 6551105 / 02 653699 labriciola.com La Brisa Near the ruins of an Ancient Roman imperial palazzo, this restaurant offers traditional Lombardy recipes, seafood dishes, meat and vegetarian specialities. The “crispy Iberian suckling pig with piquant apple mostarda” is particularly memorable. During the warmer months, locals love lunching and dining in the restaurant’s lovely garden. Monday to Friday 12.45 pm to

Ratanà Traditional Milanese and Lombardy dishes reinterpreted with inspiration and creativity by chef Cesare Battisti. As dictated by local custom, the menu is mostly meat based with the exception of freshwater fish. Dishes with 3, maximum 4, seasonal ingredients of the highest quality. The “Milanese risotto with ossobuco” is divine. The outdoor area is equally lovely. Monday to Sunday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 11 pm Via de Castillia, 28 Ph. +39 02 87128855 ratana.it Ristorante Lucca Antique silverware, crystal chandeliers and an Art Deco atmosphere in a historic restaurant that has been open since the 1920s.The menu draws inspiration from various Italian culinary traditions with a preference, as you might have 206

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

guessed from the name, for Tuscany. Check out the weekly specials for a creative flourish, which are served alongside classics like “smoked fillet with herbs” or “pici pasta with guanciale and pecorino”. Monday to Friday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 11 pm Saturday open for dinner Via Castaldi, 33 Ph. +39 02 29526668 ristorantelucca.it

Trattoria del Nuovo Macello Meat reigns supreme - thick and crunchy, the “cutlet of veal loin alla Milanese” is a must have - in this trattoria that serves more than just tradition, also offering contemporary revisited dishes like the “oyster carbonara” and “salmon sashimi”. Creative desserts. Monday to Friday 12.30 pm to 2 pm and 8 pm to 10 pm Saturday open for dinner Via Lombroso, 20 Ph. +39 02 59902122 trattoriadelnuovomacello.it

Ristorante Solferino A bastion of traditional Milanese cooking for more than a century, it proffers an excellent seasonal menu where typical dishes are flaunted in all their glory, including “osso buco with risotto”, also catering for fish lovers with dishes like “grilled juliette of turbot with potato cake and pistachios”. A wine list with 1,000+ Italian labels. Monday to Sunday noon to 2.30 pm and 7 pm to 11.30 pm Via Castelfidardo, 2 corner Via Solferino Ph. +39 02 29005748 ilsolferino.com

Trattoria del Pescatore If the name weren’t enough, the boat “anchored” to the entrance that displays the day’s catch says it all: this is the restaurant for fish lovers. The “Catalan-style lobster” is perfect for connoisseurs and the mullet bottarga dishes are exquisite. Monday to Saturday 12.30 to 2.30 pm, 8 to 11 pm Via Atto Vannucci, 5 Ph. +39 02 58320452 trattoriadelpescatore.it

207

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

Trippa A true Italian trattoria serving stews and offal (liver, lungs, tripe, etc.) dishes reinterpreted for gourmands. Try the “vitello tonnato”, generally considered to be the best in Milan, “Fassona beef tartare with hazelnuts” and “grilled marrow”. Monday to Saturday 7.30 pm to 11.30 pm Via Vasari, 3 corner Via Muratori Ph. +39 327 6687908 trippamilano.it

CONTEMPORARY CUISINE Ceresio 7 On the top floor of the former Enel building, this is a restaurant with breathtaking views over Milan. Popular from morning to night for its pools and lunch served on terrace tables. At dinner, Italian classics are reinterpreted with a modern touch by chef Elio Sironi and include “spaghetti cacio e pepe, lime and bottarga”. Monday to Sunday 12.30 pm to 3 pm and 7.30 pm to 11 pm Via Ceresio, 7 Ph. +39 02 31039221 ceresio7.com Langosteria Cafè Milano The latest cult address for fish by Langosteria. An elegant contemporary space with retro accents, where original specialties are served such as “pappa al pomodoro and clams” and “fried calamari and prawns with wasabi mayonnaise”. Monday to Saturday noon to 4 pm, 7 pm to midnight Galleria del Corso, 4 Ph. + 39 02 76018167 208

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

Langosteria Monday to Saturday 7 pm to midnight Via Savona, 10 Ph. +39 02 58111649 Langosteria Bistrot Tuesday to Sunday noon to 3 pm, 7 pm to midnight Via privata Bobbio, 2 Ph. +39 02 58107802 langosteria.com

dinary concept: interior décor gallery, design studios, flower shop and bistro. Giacomo Montelli is in the kitchen, an original chef who serves intensely flavoured traditional Italian dishes using the finest ingredients like fish from Mazara del Vallo, raw red prawns and Angus beef reared Argentinian style. Monday to Saturday 12:30 pm to 3 pm and 7 pm to midnight Via Scaldasole, 7 Ph. +39 02 36519910 sixieme-bistro.com

Pisacco In the heart of Brera, one of the best-loved places on the urban restaurant scene. Focus on modern Italian with dishes like “risotto alla milanese with veal ragù” and “Roman artichokes with crispy bread and liquorice”. Chef Andrea Berton supervises and puts his name on Andrea Asoli’s menu. The house hamburger is incredible. Tuesday to Sunday noon to 3.30 pm and 7 pm to 11 pm Via Solferino, 48 Ph. +39 02 91765472 pisacco.it Sixième Bistrò Set in an Old Milan courtyard dotted with greenery and tropical plants, an out-of-the-or209

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

Potafiori A flower shop with kitchen where the time taken to prepare a bouquet becomes an occasion to listen to live music and eat good food. In tribute to the origins of the owner Rosalba Piccinni, order the “casoncelli”: Bergamo-style ravioli with butter and sage, crispy pancetta and Grana Padano cheese. Monday to Saturday 9 am to midnight; Sunday 5 pm to midnight Via Salasco, 17 Ph. +39 02 87065930 / 02 36740980 - potafiori.com

STREET FOOD Al Mercato A burger bar that prepares hamburgers fit for gourmets and delicious sandwiches. In the kitchen there’s chef Eugenio Roncoroni, while the wine list and restaurant is managed by Giacomo Gironi. Try the “superdupermegaburger” with cheddar, bacon, egg, onion, tomato, tartar sauce and special sauce. Be patient: there are only 15 seats and they don’t accept reservations. Monday to Sunday 12.30 pm to 3 pm and 7.30 pm to 11 pm Via Sant’Eufemia, 16 Ph. +39 02 87237167 al-mercato.it

Spazio Milano On the top floor of Il Mercato del Duomo, a sort of cathedral of taste, Spazio Milano is the hotbed where up-and-coming chefs at Niko Romito’s school (three Michelin stars) try their hand at creative refined cuisine. Monday to Sunday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 10 pm c/o Il Mercato del Duomo (3rd floor), Piazza Duomo corner of Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Ph. +39 02 878400 nikoromitoformazione.it ilmercatodelduomo.it

De Santis Locals and out-of-towners love to visit this historic location on Corso Magenta to try its many unique sandwiches. Ideal for a quick lunch or snack. More than 200 different types of sandwiches. Monday to Thursday and Sunday noon to 11.30 pm, Friday and Saturday noon to midnight 210

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

Corso Magenta, 9 Ph. +39 02 72095124 paninidesantis.it

sine north to south. The cheese selection is excellent. Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 11 pm Mercato Coperto Piazza XXIV Maggio Ph. +39 02 39468368

Luini The panzerotti prepared by Luini are an institution in Milan. Fried, according to Pugliese tradition, or baked, they are perfect enjoyed outdoors, perhaps in the nearby Piazza San Fedele or a little further away in Piazza Duomo. Don’t miss the classic tomato and mozzarella panzerotto, but the range of fillings is varied with a few Milanese concessions. Monday 10 am to 3 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm Via Santa Radegonda, 16 Ph. +39 02 86461917 luini.it

Mangiari di Strada The best of Italian street food proposed by chef Giuseppe Zen, lover of organic and biodynamic products. Cheese and cold cuts of all types, just picked vegetables, hand-rolled pasta and top-quality meat. Street food that can also be enjoyed comfortably seated in a space that tastefully marries marble and wood. Monday to Saturday noon to 3 pm Via Lorenteggio, 269 Ph. +39 02 4150556 mangiaridistrada.com

Macelleria Popolare Butcher, bàcaro and deli where exclusively organic and freerange meat is prepared each day. A project by Giuseppe Zen, the brain behind Mangiari di Strada. There’s also a kitchen that makes dishes to order using the meat on sale. A menu that covers Italian popular cui211

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

Ph. +39 02 5468297 latavernagourmet.it

PIZZERIAS Cenerè Original cuisine and contemporary pizza in a design-driven space boasting a current and refined style. Davide La Grotteria and Daniele Tursi are in the kitchen, with the talented Michele Franco at the pizza oven, who invents creative and classic gourmet pizzas. Monday to Friday 12.30 to 3 pm, 7.30 to 11 pm; Saturday open for dinner Piazza Virgilio, 3 corner of via Boccaccio Ph. +39 02 4690288 ceneremilano.it La Taverna Gourmet Pizzas made only with sourdough left to rise for at least 48 hours, quality ingredients, a creative chef Leonardo Giannico and an expert pizza maker Vincenzo Masi. Gourmet pizzas like the “Pata Negra, Andria stracciatella and figs” and “Scampi, cacio and pepe”. There’s a privè for a maximum of 16 people. Tuesday to Sunday 7 pm to midnight Via Andrea Maffei, 12

Lievità Among the ten top pizzerias in Italy, it’s home to Giorgio Caruso, who loves to call himself and his staff (all born in Campania) the “tomato specialists”: they use nine different types. The pizza is light: made with stone ground flour and topped with PDO, PGI and Slow Food ingredients. Monday to Sunday noon to 3 pm and 7 pm to 11.30 pm Via Ravizza, 11 Ph. +39 02 84561374 pizzeria-lievita.com

212

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

Gelateria Marghera Popular with millennials who love to drop by this gelateria at night for one of their delicious “Dopocena” or “Liquorini”, the chilled takes on best-loved cocktails, as well as for a traditional gianduia chocolate or tiramisu flavour. Monday to Thursday 11 pm to midnight; Friday and Saturday 11 to 12:30 am out Via Marghera, 33 Ph. +39 02 468641 gelateriamarghera.it Il Massimo del Gelato Milano The locals adore it. Artisan gelato made with natural ingredients. Specialities include 10 Domori chocolate flavours and granita made with 90% fresh fruit. The parlour has a neoclassical feel with a few ironic touches. Winter: Tuesday to Thursday and Sunday noon to 11 pm Friday and Saturday noon to midnight Summer: Tuesday to Sunday noon to midnight Piazza Risorgimento corner Via Pisacane Ph. +39 02 70103218 massimogelatomilano.it

ICE CREAM SHOPS Chocolat An iconic spot for chocolate gelato lovers. Eight types of cacao from all over the world are used to make the various flavours from 100% pure (no added milk) to those flavoured with orange, amaretto and rum. Monday to Friday 7.30 pm to 1 am, Saturday 8 pm to 1 am Sunday 10 am to 1 am Via Boccaccio, 9 Ph. +39 02 48100597 chocolatmilano.it Ciacco No emulsifiers, thickeners, colorants, preservatives or added flavours are allowed here: this is a place for delicious natural gelato. The flavours are strictly seasonal and change daily. In addition to the classics are gelato that wow and win you over, such as matcha green tea and pumpkin. Monday to Saturday 8 am to 9 pm; Sunday 2 to 9 pm Via Spadari, 13 Ph. +39 02 39663592 ciaccogelato.it

213

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

La Gelateria della Musica Italian newspaper La Repubblica considers it one of the top 20 gelaterias in the world. The gelato is by Fabio Brigliadoro, former musician and chef, who has conquered Milan with his original flavours and secret recipes like “bread, butter and jam”, gelato with “lightly salted roasted pistachios” and “chocolate ganache sorbet”. Tuesday to Thursday and Sunday 2 pm to 9 pm; Friday and Saturday 2 pm to 10.30 pm Via Abamonti, 2 Ph. +39 02 20520397 Tuesday to Friday 12.30 pm to10 pm; Saturday 12.30 pm to10.30 pm; Sunday 12.30 pm to9 pm Via Pestalozzi, 4 Ph. +39 02 38235911 lagelateriadellamusica.it

CAFÉS & PASTRY SHOP Bastianello A Baroque interior, glass chandeliers and an elegant covered outdoor seating area form the backdrop for this triumph of sweets, pastries, cakes and chocolate sculptures which are so beautiful it’s almost a shame to eat them. As an alternative in summer, try their gelato as you stroll towards the cathedral. Monday to Sunday 7 am to 11 pm Via Borgogna, 5 Ph. +39 02 76317065 bastianello.com Cova One of the oldest cafes in Italy. Famous for its panettone, made-to-order sweets, chocolate and other products that after two centuries continue to conquer not only local palates, but international fans too. Monday to Saturday 7.45 am to 8.30 pm, Sunday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 8 Ph. +39 02 76005599 Ph. +39 02 76000578 covamilano.com

214

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

Pasticceria Biffi Milano One of the first to try the famous Biffi panettone was Pope Pius X, who was curious about this decadent local cake. But the story of this pastry shop started even earlier, in 1847. From then on, it has been a popular meeting place, not just for its desserts, but also for a pleasant tea or coffee break, or a hot chocolate in winter. Monday to Sunday 6.30 am to 10.30 pm Corso Magenta, 87 Ph. +39 02 48006702 biffipasticceria.it Pasticceria Cucchi This famous historic Italian institution has tantalized poets and thinkers, directors and businessmen over the years. Beautiful, delicious cakes, fragrant croissants and other delights including the Milanese panettone, which is made all year round. Tuesday to Sunday 7 am to 10 pm Corso Genova, 1 Ph. +39 02 89409793 pasticceriacucchi.it

Pasticceria Marchesi Founded in 1824, this is a piece of Milanese history, synonymous with excellence in cake, chocolate and panettone making. The historic premises are an eighteenth-century palazzo in Via Santa Maria alla Porta, in the Magenta area. A gourmet location imbued with elegance and sweetness. The mignon pastries are a must. Tuesday to Saturday 7.30 am to 8 pm; Sunday 8.30 am to 1 pm Via Santa Maria alla Porta, 11/A Ph. +39 02 862770 / 876730 Pasticceria Marchesi in via Monte Napoleone Monday to Sunday 7.30 am to 9 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 9 Ph. + 39 02 76008238 Pasticceria Marchesi in the Galleria Monday to Sunday 7.30 am to 9 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Ph. + 39 02 94181710 pasticceriamarchesi.com

215

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

Pavé Any time of the day is a perfect time to stop by Pavè. Artisan brioches prepared with different types of dough and fillings, delicious cakes like the “tonka”, shortcrust pastry with pistachio frangipane, raspberry jam and white chocolate mousse flavoured with tonka beans. The panini are equally tasty. Tuesday to Friday 8 am to 8 pm Saturday and Sunday 8.30 am to 7 pm Via Casati, 27 Ph. +39 02 94392259 pavemilano.com

FOOD SHOPPING Arte del ricevere Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm Via Melloni, 35 Ph. +39 02 715442 artedelricevere.com Centro Botanico Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.45 pm; Sunday 3 pm to 7.45 pm Piazza San Marco, 1 Ph. +39 02 29013254 centrobotanico.org Coffee Studio 7Gr. Monday to Friday 9 am to 7 pm Via Valparaiso, 9 Ph. +39 02 3656 1122 7gr.it Dammann Frères Monday to Sunday 10 am to 8 pm Piazza XXV Aprile, 12 Ph. +39 02 62910288 dammann.fr Eat’s Monday to Sunday 10 am to 9 pm Galleria del Corso, 4 Ph. +39 02 76015176 eatstore.it Eataly Smeraldo Monday to Sunday 8.30 am to midnight Piazza XXV Aprile, 10 Ph. +39 02 49497301

Sant Ambroeus This elegant pastry shop is renowned for its delicious creations prepared daily in the large artisan kitchen next door as well as for its Easter eggs, simply chocolate masterpieces. Another pride and joy: the Milanese panettone. Monday to Sunday 7.45 am to 8.30 pm; July: Monday to Saturday 7.45 am to 8.30 pm Corso Matteotti, 7 Ph. +39 02 76000540 santambroeusmilano.com 216

RESTAURANTS & FOOD

Ph. +39 02 8852471 rinascente.it Pasticceria Ernst Knam Monday 4 pm to 8 pm; Tuesday to Friday 10 am to 1 pm and 4 pm to 8 pm; Saturday 10 am to 1 pm and 3 pm to 8 pm; Sunday 10 am to 1 pm Via Anfossi, 10 Ph. +39 02 55194448 eknam.com Peck Monday 3 pm to 8 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 9 am to 8 pm; Sunday 10am to 5 pm Via Spadari, 9 Ph. +39 02 8023161 peck.it Torrefazione Moka Hodeidah Monday to Saturday 7 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday in December 8 am to 6 pm Via Piero della Francesca, 8 Ph. +39 02 342472 hodeidah.it Urbani Tartufi Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm Via Anfossi, 13 Ph. +39 02 54090175 urbanitartufi.it

eataly.net/it Enoteca Cotti Tuesday to Saturday 9 am to 1 pm and 3 pm to 8 pm; in December open also on Sundays and Mondays Via Solferino, 42 Ph. +30 02 29001096 enotecacotti.it Giovanni Galli Monday to Saturday 8.30 am to 8 pm; Sunday 9 am to 1.30 pm Via Victor Hugo, 2 Ph. +39 02 86464833 giovannigalli.com Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone Monday to Saturday 8 am to 10.30 pm Via Santo Spirito, 10 corner Via GesĂš, 5 Ph. +39 02 76001123 ilsalumaiodimontenapoleone.it La Rinascente Food & Restaurant Monday to Saturday 8.30 am to midnight. Sunday 10 am to midnight. Entrances from la Rinascente Piazza Duomo (until store closing time) or via Santa Radegonda 1 and via San Raffaele 2 (entrance until midnight) Piazza Duomo 217

APERITIF & WINE BARS

OUR BARMANâ€™S FAVOURITES

APERITIF & WINE BARS

218

APERITIF & WINE BARS

Via Vigevano, 3 Ph. +39 02 89403053 capetowncafe.com Ceresio 7 Monday to Sunday 12.30 am to1 am; finger food 6.30 pm to 9 pm Via Ceresio, 7 Ph. +39 02 31039221 ceresio7.com Deus Café Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday 9.30 am to 1 am; Friday and Saturday 9.30 am to 2 am Via Thaon di Revel, 3 Ph. +39 02 83439230 deuscafe.it Dry Cocktails & Pizza Tuesday to Sunday 7 pm to 1.30 am Via Solferino, 33 Ph. +39 02 63793414 Monday to Saturday noon to 3 pm and 7 pm to 2 am Viale Vittorio Veneto, 28 Ph. +39 02 63471564 drymilano.it El Buscia (Champagne bar) Monday and Sunday 5 pm to 10 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 11 am to 2 pm and 4.30 pm to 10 pm Viale Beatrice d’Este, 48 Ph. +39 02 45498762

Armani/Bamboo Bar Monday to Sunday 11 am to 1 am Via Manzoni, 31 Ph. +39 02 88838888 Backdoor 43 Monday to Sunday 7.30 pm to 3 am Ripa di Porta Ticinese,43 Ph. +39 340 962 8890 Bar Luce/Fondazione Prada Summertime: Monday, Wednesday and Thursday 9 am to 9 pm; Wintertime: Friday to Sunday 9 am to 10 pm; Monday, Wednesday and Thursday 9 am to 8 pm; Friday to Sunday 9 am to 9 pm Largo Isarco, 2 Ph. + 39 02 56662611 fondazioneprada.org/barluce Camparino in Galleria Tuesday to Sunday 7.30 am to 8 pm Piazza Duomo, 21 corner Galleria Vittorio Emanuele Ph. +39 02 86464435 camparino.it Cantine Isola Tuesday to Sunday 10 am to 10 pm Via Paolo Sarpi, 30 Ph. +39 02 3315249 Cape Town Cafè Monday to Sunday 6 pm to 2 am 219

APERITIF & WINE BARS

to 1 am; Sunday 9.30 am to midnight Corso Venezia, 15 Ph. +39 02 76011154 dolcegabbana.com/martini Mio-Park Hyatt Hotel Monday to Sunday 12 pm to 1 am Via Silvio Pellico, 3 Ph. +39 02 88 21 12 34 milan.park.hyatt.com N’Ombra de Vin Monday to Sunday 10 am to 2 am Via San Marco, 2 Ph. +39 02 6599650 nombradevin.it Nottingham Forest Tuesday to Saturday 6.30 pm to 2 am; Sunday 6.30 pm to 1 am Viale Piave, 1 nottingham-forest.com Octavius Bar Monday to Saturday 18 pm to 1 am Piazza Gae Aulenti, 4 Ph. +39 02 63793539 replaythestage.com Opera 33 Monday to Thursday and Sunday 6.30 pm to 2 am; Friday and Saturday 7 pm to 3 am out Via Carlo Farini, 33 Ph. +39 338 356 6177 speziology.com PINCH Spirits & Kitchen Monday to Friday 6 pm to 2 am;

Fioraio Bianchi Caffè Monday to Saturday bar 8 am to midnight; Aperitif 6 pm to 8 pm; Via Montebello, 7 Ph. +39 02 29014390 fioraiobianchicaffe.it Fonderie Milanesi Tuesday to Thursday 7 pm to 1 am; Friday and Saturday Brunch 12.30 am to 15 pm and 7 pm to 2 am; Sunday Brunch 12.30 am to 15 pm and 7 pm to 1 am Via Giovenale, 7 Ph. +39 02 36527913 Frida Monday to Friday 12 am to 15 am and 6 pm to 2 am; Saturday 11.30 am to 2 am; Sunday 5 pm to 1 am Via Pollaiuolo, 3 Ph. +39 02 680260 - fridaisola.it Mag Cafè Monday to Friday 7.30 am to 2 am; Saturday and Sunday 9 am to 2 am Ripa di Porta Ticinese, 43 Ph. +39 02 39562875 Mandarin Bar & Bistrot Wednesday to Saturday 8 am to 2 am, Sunday to Tuesday 8 am to 1 am Via Monte di Pietà, 16 Ph. +39 02 87318898 mandarinoriental.it Martini Bar by Dolce & Gabbana Monday to Saturday 9.30 am 220

APERITIF & WINE BARS

rotondabistrot.it Surfer’s Den Wintertime (October-April): Friday to Sunday 9 pm to 2.30 am; Summertime (May-September): Friday to Sunday 7 pm to 2.30 am Piazza Caduti del Lavoro, 5 Ph. +39 338 591 6764 surfersden.com The Botanical Club Monday to Wednesday 18.30 pm 1 am; Thursday, Friday and Saturday 6.30 pm to 2 am Via Pastrengo, 11 Ph. +39 02 36523846 thebotanicalclub.com The Doping Club at The Yard Hotel Monday tu Sunday 6.30 pm to 1 am Piazza Ventiquattro Maggio, 8 Ph. +39 02 89415901 theyardhotel.com/thedopingclub The Spirit Tuesday to Sunday 6 pm to 2 am Via Piacenza, 15 Ph. +39 02 84570612 thespirit.it Tibi Bistrot Provençal Monday to Saturday 7 pm to 2 am; Sunday 6 pm to midnight Via San Fermo, 1 Ph. +39 02 29014422

Saturday and Sunday 12 am to 2 am Ripa di Porta Ticinese, 63 Ph. +39 02 36528204 Corso Garibaldi, 79 Ph. +39 02 6556 0659 procacci1885.it Radetzky Monday 8 am to 1.30 am; Tuesday to Saturday 8am to 2 am; Sunday 10am to 1.30 am Corso Garibaldi, 105 Ph. +39 02 6572645 radetzky.it Radio Rooftop Milan Sunday to Wednesday 7 am to 1 am; Thursday to Saturday 7 am to 2 am Via Marco Polo, 18 Ph. +39 02 84220109 radiorooftop.com Rita & Cocktails Monday to Sunday 6.30 pm to 2 am Via Fumagalli, 1 Ph. +39 02 8372865 Rotonda Bistrot Summertime (April-October): Monday to Sunday 9.30 pm to 11.30 pm. Wintertime: Tuesday to Friday 9.30 am to 6.30 pm; Saturday and Sunday 9.30 am to 7 pm Via Enrico Besana, 12 Ph. +39 02 55011404 221

NIGHTLIFE

OUR EVENT MANAGERâ€™S FAVOURITES

NIGHTLIFE

222

NIGHTLIFE

Armani Privé Wednesday 11.30 pm to 3.30 am; Thursday 10.30 pm to 3.30 am; Friday and Saturday 11.30 pm to 4 am Via Gastone Pisoni, 1 Ph. +39 02 62312655 armanipriveclub.com Blanco Summer opening hours: Monday 7.45 am to midnight; Tuesday to Saturday 7.45 am to 2 pm, Sunday 6.30 pm to midnight Winter opening hours: Monday 7.45 am to midnight; Tuesday to Saturday 7.45am to 2 pm Via Giovanni Battista Morgagni, 2 Ph. +39 02 29405284 blancomilano.it Blue Note Tuesday to Saturday 9 pm and 11 pm; Sunday 9 pm (start time of the show) out Via Pietro Borsieri, 37 Ph. +39 02 69016888 bluenotemilano.com Byblos Milano Tuesday to Saturday 11.30 pm to 5am out Via Messina, 38 Ph. +39 338 8098326 byblosmilano.com

Carlo e Camilla in segheria Monday to Sunday 6.30 pm to 2 am Via Giuseppe Meda, 24 Ph. +39 02 8373963 carloecamillainsegheria.it Club Plastic Friday to Sunday from midnight Via Gargano,15 Il Gattopardo Tuesday, Friday and Saturday 6 pm to 5 am; Wednesday 6 pm to 1am; Thursday 6pm to 3am; Sunday 6pm to 2am out Via Piero della Francesca, 47 Ph. +39 02 34537699 ilgattopardocafe.it Jazz Cafè Sunday to Thursday 8 pm to 2 am; Friday and Saturday 8 pm to 3 am Corso Sempione, 8 Ph. +39 02 33604039 jazzcafe.it Just Cavalli Monday to Sunday 11 pm to 5 am Via Luigi Camoens c/o Torre Branca Ph. + 39 02 311817 milano.cavalliclub.com/it

223

NIGHTLIFE

Wednesday 6 pm to 1.30 am; Thursday, Friday and Saturday 6 pm to 2 am Sunday 5 pm to 1 am Piazza XXIV Maggio, 8 Ph. +39 02 89415901 thedopingclub.com

La Balera dellâ€™Ortica From June to September Tuesday to Sunday 8 pm to 1 am Via Giovanni Antonio Amadeo, 78 Ph. +39 02 70128680 labaleradellortica.com Nepentha From September to May: Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday 9 pm to 5 am Piazza Armando Diaz, 1 Ph. +39 02 804837 nephentaclub.com Nottingham Forest Tuesday to Saturday 6.30 pm to 2 am; Sunday 6 pm to1 am Viale Piave, 1 Ph. +39 02 798311 nottingham-forest.com Rocket From September 15 to June 30: Thursday to Saturday 11 pm to 5 am Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 98 Ph. +39 333 3313817 Terrazza 12 Monday to Sunday noon to 1 am Via Durini, 28 terrazza12.it The Doping Club at The Yard hotel Monday 6 pm to 1 am Tuesday, 224

OUTSIDE NIGHTLIFE MILAN

OUR PR DIRECTORâ€™S FAVOURITES

OUTSIDE MILAN

226

OUTSIDE MILAN

LAGO MAGGIORE

LAGO DI COMO LECCO

COMO E62

E64

BERGAMO A4

MONZA

MILANO

FRANCIACORTA BRESCIA

LAGO DI GARDA

AST I

E70

A33

20 Km

ALBA

deep into the walls that drop down steeply. To the south, the lake becomes a sea that extends flat into the Po plain. Our suggestion: Lake Garda is popular in summer months, but its beauty can be enjoyed in September and October too, when the sky is clear and the sun renders the water reminiscent of Nordic lakes. Lefay Resort & Spa Via Angelo Feltrinelli, 136 Gargnano (BS) Ph. + 39 0365 241800 lefayresorts.com

LAKE GARDA Vineyards, olive and lemon trees, high and low-lying shores, a treasure nestled between Lombardy, Veneto and Trentino worth visiting slowly. The lake has four souls: to the north there’s a Norwegian fiord, deep and blue, an oasis for kite surfers and mountain bikers. To the east there’s the Costa Azzurra, with its winding road on the water’s edge. To the west, there’s the Costiera Amalfitana, with tunnels dug 227

OUTSIDE MILAN

La Terrazza restaurant at Grand Hotel Tremezzo The finest Italian cuisine by Gualtiero Marchesi Via Regina, 8 Tremezzina (CO) Ph. + 39 0344 42491 grandhoteltremezzo.com

LAKE COMO The mountains drop steeply down over the mirror of water, shaping a magical landscape that bewitched Romantic writers and today’s film stars like George Clooney, with monasteries, little beaches and old towns where the lifestyle remains unchanged, like the medieval village of Torno. Dreamlike villas and parks also reign in the magical quietude of the shores of the lake: Villa d’Este in Cernobbio, converted into a luxury hotel in 1873; Villa Carlotta in Tremezzo with its art collection, the statue of Palamedes by Canova and the garden, a marvel in the spring when the azaleas blossom; Villa Balbianello, where director George Lucas set the romantic planet of Naboo in Star Wars: Episode 2. Our suggestion: take a taxi boat in old-style mahogany. Figli dei Fiori Via Borgovico, 39A Como Ph. +39 031 570006 figlideifiori.com Fresco Cocktail Shop Viale Lecco, 23 Como Ph. +39 393 731 5649 frescococktailshop.it

LAKE MAGGIORE Increasingly sought after by connoisseurs and those who hold it dear won over by the captivating scenery, historic homes, a year-round mild climate with the most beautiful flowers and trips out surrounded by rare beauty on roads that enhance the fun. Over the Borromean Gulf stands the lovely city of Stresa and on the opposite side Verbania, from where boats set sail to visit the Borromean Islands, beginning on Isola Bella with the terraced garden of Palazzo Borromeo, home to paintings, marbles, stuccos and some of the world’s finest Flemish tapestries. On Isola Madre, there is a precious botanic garden brimming with rare plants and exotic flowers. 228

OUTSIDE MILAN

corner of Vicolo dell’Arco Alba (CN) Ph. +39 0173 366167 piazzaduomoalba.it Tartufi Morra store Piazza Pertinace, 3 Alba (CN) Ph. +39 0173 364271 – 2 tartufimorra.com

Piccolo Lago restaurant Via Filippo Turati, 87 Verbania Ph. +39 0323 586792 piccololago.it

ALBA The land of great Piedmontese red wine and the most prized truffles in the world, hilly scenery, a UNESCO World Heritage site, centuries-old villages and unforgettable flavours make the Langhe region a place to linger. Around Alba, the main city and international white truffle capital, some of the world’s finest wines are produced, like Barolo and Barbaresco. A curiosity: on your travels in the Langhe you might come across some giant, out-of-proportion benches. They are the work of US designer Chris Bangle, who was the head of design for the BMW Group for almost 20 years and now has a studio there. Ciau del Tornavento restaurant Piazza Baracco, 7 Treiso (CN) Ph. +39 0173 638333 laciaudeltornavento.it Piazza Duomo restaurant Piazza Risorgimento, 4

FRANCIACORTA A little plot of peaty land, from Brescia to Lake Iseo, with farmsteads dating to the turn of the century, and twenty-four hours peace guaranteed. Wineries are always open, meaning that passersby can pop in at any time, unrestricted by opening hours. In the land of great Italian sparklers, vineyards as far as the eye can see, vanishing on the shores of the lake. For an authentic and relaxing wine tourism experience take the Strada del Franciacorta, one of the first wine roads in Italy, which winds for 80km amid hills, nature reserves, waterways, villas and castles. LeoneFelice de L’ Albereta Via Vittorio Emanuele, 23 Erbusco (BS) Ph. + 39 030 7760550 albereta.it 229

OUTSIDE MILAN

Villa Panza di Biumo Monday to Sunday 10 am to 6 pm Piazza Litta, 1 Varese Tel. +39 0332 283960 fondoambiente.it Luce restaurant Piazza Litta 1, Varese Tel. +39 0332 242199

VARESE A trip out of town thatâ€™s worth the journey is the cultural experience for foodies furnished by Varese, thanks to the graceful Villa Menafoglio Litta Panza, home to the collection belonging to Count Giuseppe Panza di Biumo. Erected in the mid 1700s, extended in the neoclassical age and recently restored, Villa Panza stands above Varese, surrounded by Italian gardens. Part of an aristocratic home, the antique furniture blends with the contemporary American art collection, which the Panza couple assembled between 1956 and the late Nineties. Be wowed by the spectacular permanent light installations by James Turrell, Dan Flavin and Robert Irwin, designed specifically for Biumo and now a destination for art lovers and experts. Luce, the restaurant with views over the grounds, provides pure gourmet escapism; the menus change with the seasons and according to the vegetables grown next to the villa.

BERGAMO What makes Bergamo so special is its division into Bergamo Bassa and Bergamo Alta. The latter is the true heart of the city, its old city centre that can only be reached on foot or by funicular railway. The upper town, encircled with medieval walls, is a pretty place dotted with craft workshops, piazzas, churches and bell towers, boutiques, restaurants and coffee shops. You can walk around the walls, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and gaze out at the surrounding countryside from on high. AlÂ Carroponte restaurant Via Edmondo De Amicis, 4 Bergamo Ph. +39 035 265 2180 alcarroponte.it 230

OUTSIDE MILAN

Casual restaurant Via San Vigilio, 1 Bergamo (BG) Ph. +39 035 260944 enricobartolini.net/ristorante-casual-bergamo

Cathedral and its Museum, home to Queen Theodelinda’s treasures and her iron crown. Villa Reale Tuesday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm; Friday 10 am to 10 pm Viale Brianza, 1 Monza Ph. +39 039 394641 Full ticket Euro 10 Free admission under the age of 4 villarealedimonza.it Museo del Duomo e Cappella di Teodolinda Guided visits require advance booking Via Lambro, 2 Monza Ph. +39 039 326383 duomomonza.it Bar Caffè Moderno Piazza Roma, 2 Monza Ph. +39 039 322167

MONZA Monza provides food for thought with an eclectic range of activities for all ages. Monza Park is a woodland lined with trails for visitors to experience the knights, witches and gnomes while walking alongside the river Lambro, a waterway dotted with old mills and 19th-century farms. Cycling is the perfect way to get around the park and bikes can be hired at Cascina Bastia. The Monza Circuit, a world-famous speedway frequented by Formula 1, is located in the park’s grounds. Stop by Al Belvedere della Villa Reale to see the Design Museum. Recently inaugurated, it vaunts a selection of 200-plus iconic pieces from the permanent collection of Milan’s Triennale. Standing in the old town centre, brimming with shops, bars and restaurants, visit the frescoed 231

INDEX & Other Stories 7 For All Mankind 10 Corso Como

165 165 48, 165

Abercrombie 165 Accademia di Belle Arti 43, 44, 151 Accademia di Brera 44 Acqua di Parma 36, 191 ADD 165 Aesop 191 Agent Provocateur La Rinascente 165 Al Coniglio Bianco 204 Al Mercato 210 Alan Journo 36, 165 Alba 229 Albergo Diurno Venezia 82, 151 Alberta Ferretti 165 Al Carroponte restaurant 230 Alessi 188 Alexander McQueen 165 Alfonso Garlando 180 Alice ristorante 51 Angelo Fusco 180 Ansaldo Workshops 116, 151 Antica Osteria Cavallini 204 Antica Trattoria della Pesa 205 Antonia 166 Antonio Citterio 12 Antonio Guida 10, 146, 198 232

Archaeological Museum 151 Arco della pace 21, 89, 100 Arena 100 Armani 28, 37, 62 Armani/Bamboo Bar 219 Armani Casa 188 Armani Libri 192 Armani Nobu 200 Armani Privé 37, 223 Armani Silos 108, 151 Arte del ricevere 216 Artemide 188 Ash 180 Aspesi 166 Astronomical Museum 44, 151 Astronomical Observatory 44, 151 Audemars Piguet 185 Auditorium di Milano 163

B&B Italia Store 188 Ba - Asian Mood 200 Backdoor 43 219 Bagni Misteriosi at Teatro Franco Parenti 131, 151 Baldinini 180 Balenciaga 166 Ballin 181 Bally 181 Banner 166 Bar Caffè Moderno 231 Bar Luce

Boglioli 166 Bonpoint 166 Borsalino 181 Boschi Di Stefano House Museum 83, 152 Bose 188 Botanical Gardens 44, 50, 152 Bottega Veneta 167 Breguet 185 Brera 20, 38, 41, 43, 44 Brioni 36, 167 British Box 191 Brunello Cucinelli 167 Buccellati 185 Bulgari 185 Burberry 167 Byblos Milano 223

Fondazione Prada 126, 219 Barba Napoli 166 Barovier&Toso 188 Basara Milano 200 Basilica of San Babila 25, 37, 151 Basilica of San Lorenzo 105, 117, 151 Basilica of San Simpliciano 41, 152 Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio 87, 89, 152 Basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie 20, 87, 89, 92, 101, 152 Bastianello 214 Bellora 188 Belstaff 166 Bergamo 230 Berluti 181 Bernardini 185 Bialetti 188 Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense 44, 152 Biblioteca Sormani 121, 152 Biblioteca Trivulziana (at Castello Sforzesco) 96, 152 Biffi Boutique 166 Björk 200 Blanco 223 Blue Note 223 Blumarine 166 Bocconi University 123 Boffi 50, 188

Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana 28 Camparino in Galleria 219 Canali 167 Cantine Isola 219 Capalbio 167 Cape Town cafè 114, 219 Cappella di Teodolinda 231 Cargo Milano - HighTech 188 Carlo e Camilla in segheria 223 Carlo Tivioli 167 Cartier 186 Casa Berri-Meregalli 82 233

Casa degli Atellani and Leonardo’s Vineyard 101, 153 Casa Galimberti 82 Casa Guazzoni 82 Cascina Bastia 231 Cassina 188 Castello Sforzesco 21, 89, 96, 100, 153 Casual restaurant 231 Cathedral’s terrace 68, 153 Cavalli e Nastri 167 CB Made in Italy 181 Cèline 168 Cenerè 212 Centro Botanico 216 Ceresio 7 208, 219 Cesare Paciotti 181 Chanel 168 Chantecler Capri 186 Chocolat 213 Chopard 186 Christofle 189 Church of San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore 87, 153 Church of Sant’Eustorgio and Portinari Chapels 105, 153 Church of Santa Maria del Carmine 153 Church of Santa Maria presso San Satiro 55, 153 Church’s 181 Ciacco 213 234

Ciau del Tornavento restaurant 229 Cinema Dumont 82 Civic Museums 96 Club Plastic 223 Coffee Studio 7Gr. 216 Collezione Lorenzi 36 Comptoir des Cotonniers 168 Contraste 195 Corneliani 168 Corso Como 38, 43, 48 Corso Como Bookshop 192 Corso Garibaldi 43, 51 Corso Magenta 101 Corso Matteotti 37 Corso Venezia 27, 36, 75, 82 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 68 Cos 168 Cova 37, 214 Cracco 195 Creed 191 Cruciani 181 Culti Milano 191

Da Giacomo Daad Dantone Damiani Dammann Frères Darsena De Padova De Santis

67, 205 168 186 216 21, 107, 114 189 210

Design District 50 Design Museum 21 Del Carlo 182 Deus Cafè 219 Devi Kroell 182 Dim Sum 201 Dimorae 189 Dior 168 Dodo 186 Dolce & Gabbana 28, 36, 51, 168 Doriani 169 Dr. Vranjes 191 Driade 189 Dry Cocktails & Pizza 219 Dsquared2 169 Duomo 20, 52, 57, 58, 68, 154 Duomo Museum 20, 154 Duomo Terrace 68

Ermenegildo Zegna Etro Etro Fragrances Excelsior Milano

169 169 191 169

Falconeri 169 Fashion District 20, 22, 27, 37 Fay 170 Fedeli 170 Feltrinelli Duomo 192 Fendi 170 Ferrari Store 170 Figli dei Fiori 228 Financial District 69 Finger’s Garden 202 Fioraio Bianchi Caffè 220 Flos 189 Food Market 69 Fondazione Arnaldo Pomodoro 154 Fondazione Carriero 154 Fondazione Gianfranco Ferrè 117, 154 Fondazione Feltrinelli 43, 154 Fondazione Prada 21, 123, 126, 154 Fondazione Studio Museo Achille Castiglioni 155 Fonderia Artistica Battaglia 155 Fonderie Milanesi 220 Fornasetti 189 Franciacorta 229

E. Marinella 182 Eat’s 216 Eataly Smeraldo 51, 216 Egyptian Museum 96, 154 El Buscia (Champagne bar) 219 El Carnicero 201 El Porteño Arena 201 Elfo Puccini 163 Emilio Pucci 169 Emporio Armani 37, 170 Enoteca Cotti 217 Enrico Bartolini - Mudec 117, 195 235

Franck Muller Fratelli Rossetti Fresco Cocktail Shop Frette Frida Furla

Gucci Guess Gusella

186 182 228 189 220 182

Galleria Kaufmann Repetto 155 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 20, 57, 62, 68, 126, 155 Gallerie d’Italia 57, 69, 155 Gallia e Peter 170 Gallo 182 GAM - Gallery of Modern Art 73, 75, 82, 155 Gelateria Marghera 213 Gherardini 182 Giacomo Arengario 67, 205 Giacomo Bistrot 205 Giambattista Valli 170 Gianvito Rossi 182 Giò Marconi Gallery 155 Gio Moretti 170 Giorgio Armani 170 Giovanni Galli 55, 130, 217 Giuseppe Zanotti Design 182 Givenchy 170 Gogol & Company 192 Gong 202 Guastalla gardens 130 236

Hermès Herno Highline Galleria Hogan Hugo Boss

62, 171 171 182 171 171 68, 156 183 171

I Pinco Pallino 171 Il Gattopardo 223 Il Gufo 171 Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia 196 Il Massimo del Gelato Milano 213 Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone 34, 217 Indro Montanelli Public Garden 75, 82 Isaia 36, 171 Isola Bella 228 Isola Madre 228 Italia Independent 183 Iyo 202

Jaeger - LeCoultre Jazz Cafè Jil Sander Jimmy Choo Jo Malone

186 223 171 183 192

John Richmond Joia Just Cavalli

Kartell Kenzo Kiton Krizia Kurt Geiger

Larusmiani 172 Last Supper Cenacolo Vinciano 20, 87, 89, 92, 156 La Terrazza restaurant at Grand Hotel Tremezzo 228 Lefay Resort & Spa 227 Leonardo’s Vineyard 101, 153 LeoneFelice de L’ Albereta 229 Lia Rumma Gallery 156 Liberty Quarter 82 Libreria dell’automobile 192 Libreria dello Sport 193 Libreria Internazionale Ulrico Hoepli 193 Libreria Rizzoli Galleria 62, 193 Lievità 212 Liu Jo 173 Loewe 173 Longchamp 183 Loro Piana 50, 173 Louis Vuitton 37, 62, 173 Love Moschino 175 LùBar 83 Luca Finardi 8 Luce restaurant 230 Luciano Barbera 173 Luini 211 Luisa Beccaria 173 Luisa Spagnoli 173 Lume 196

172 196 177, 223 189 172 172 172 183

L.O.V.E 69 L’Arabesque 131, 172 La Balera dell’Ortica 224 La Briciola 206 La Gelateria della Musica 214 La Martina 172 La Perla 172 La Rinascente 69, 172 La Rinascente Food & Restaurant 69, 217 La Statale University 121, 123, 162 La Taverna Gourmet 212 La Triennale di Milano 89, 100, 156 Lake Como 228 Lake Garda 227 Lake Iseo 229 Langosteria 209 Langosteria Cafè Milano 208 Langosteria Bistrot 209 Lanvin 172 237

M-Missoni 174 M. Bardelli 174 Macelleria Popolare 211 Mag Cafè 114, 220 Maliparmi 174 Malo 174 Mandarin Bar & Bistro 134, 220 Mandarin Oriental, Milan 132 Mangiari di Strada 211 Marni 174 Martini Bar by Dolce & Gabbana 220 Massimo De Carlo Gallery 156 Max Mara 174 Max&Co 174 Michael Kors 174 Milan Cathedral (Duomo) 20, 57, 154 Milan Fashion Week 28 Milano Central Station 76 Milano Design Week 89, 101 Mio-Park Hyatt Hotel 220 Missoni 174 Miu Miu 36, 174 Moncler 175 Mondadori 193 Monica De Cardenas Gallery 156 Montblanc 183 Monza 231 238

Monza Circuit 231 Monza Park 231 Moschino 175 MUBA - Milan Children’s Museum 123, 124, 156 MUDEC - Museum of Cultures 21, 117, 156 Museo Bagatti Valsecchi 34, 157 Museo del Duomo 57, 154 Museo del Duomo e Cappella di Teodolinda 231 Museo del Novecento 21, 57, 67, 157 Museo del Risorgimento 157 Museo Poldi Pezzoli 25, 157 Museum of Ancient Art (at Castello Sforzesco) 96, 157 Museum of Applied Arts (at Castello Sforzesco) 96, 157 Museum of Costume Fashion and Appearance 37, 158 Museum of Furniture and Wooden Sculptures (at Castello Sforzesco) 96, 158 Museum of Musical Instruments (at Castello Sforzesco) 96, 158

N’Ombra de Vin National Chamber of Italian Fashion Natural History

220 28

Pal Zileri 175 Palazzina Brioni 36 Palazzo Anguissola 69 Palazzo dellâ€™Arengario 67 Palazzo Beltrami 69 Palazzo Borromeo 228 Palazzo Brentani 69 Palazzo Castiglioni 82 Palazzo della Ragione Fotografia 57, 159 Palazzo di Brera 20, 41, 44 Palazzo Dugnani 82 Palazzo Litta Cultura 101, 159 Palazzo Mezzanotte 69 Palazzo Morando 37 Palazzo Reale 21, 55, 57, 159 Palazzo Sormani 121 Paolo Moretti Pelle e Pellicce 175 Parco delle Basiliche 105 Parco Sempione 21, 89, 100 Pasticceria Biffi Milano 215 Pasticceria Cucchi 215 Pasticceria Ernst Knam 217 Pasticceria Marchesi 215 Pasticceria Marchesi in Galleria 68, 126, 215 Pasticceria Marchesi in via Monte Napoleone 215 Patrizia Pepe 175 Paul Smith 176 PavĂŠ 216 Peck 55, 217

Museum 73, 75, 82, 158 Navigli 21, 102, 105, 107, 116 Navigli Canal District 105 Naviglio Grande 105, 107, 114 Naviglio Martesana 50 Naviglio Pavese 105, 107, 114 Neil Barrett 175 Nepentha 224 New Milan 21 Nilufar Gallery 36, 158 Noberasco 55 Nobu 37, 200 Nonostante Marras 175 North Sail 175 Nottingham Forest 220, 224

Octavius Bar 220 Officina Profumo - Farmaceutica Santa Maria Novella 192 Officine Panerai 186 Omega 186 Opera 33 220 Ospedale Maggiore 124 Osservatorio Fondazione Prada 126, 159

P.a.r.o.s.h. 175 PAC - Pavilion of Contemporary Art 73, 75, 159 Pacifico 202 239

Pisacco 209 Planetarium 75, 82 Poliform 190 Pomellato 187 Porsche Design 176 Porselli 183 Porta Nuova 21, 48, 75, 83 Porta Romana 118, 121, 123, 130 Porta Ticinese 102, 107, 117 Porta Venezia 70, 75 Portinari chapel 105, 153 Potafiori 131, 210 Prada 28, 51, 62, 68, 176 Prehistory and Protohistory Museum (at Castello Sforzesco) 96, 160 Procacci 51 Profumeria della Vecchia Milano 192 Profumerie Mazzolari 192 Profumo 192 Provasi 50 Public Library Venezia 82, 160 Pupi Solari 176

Pellini 186 Pellux 183 Pescheria Spadari 55 Philipp Plein 176 Piaget 186 Piazza Affari 69 Piazza d’Armi 96 Piazza del Carmine 41 Piazza della Repubblica 76 Piazza Duca D’Aosta 76 Piazza Duomo 68 Piazza Duomo Restaurant 229 Piazza Gae Aulenti 48, 75, 83 Piazza San Babila 68 Piazza Sant’Eustorgio 105, 153 Piccolo Lago restaurant 229 Piccolo Teatro Grassi 41, 163 Piccolo Teatro Strehler 41, 163 Piccolo Teatro Studio Mariangela Melato 41, 163 Pietà Rondanini 89, 96, 159 Pinacoteca di Brera 20, 44, 50, 160 Pinacoteca Ambrosiana 21, 55, 57, 160 Pinacoteca (at Castello Sforzesco) 96, 160 PINCH Spirits & Kitchen 220 Pinko 176 Pirelli Hangar Bicocca 160 Pirelli Tower 76, 160 Pisa Orologeria Flagship Store 36, 187

Quadrilatero della Moda (Fashion square) 20, 22, 27

Radetzky Radio Rooftop Milan 240

221 221

San Lorenzo Columns 117 San Marco Market 50 San Siro Stadium 161 Sant Ambroeus 37, 216 Santa Giustina 34 Santoni 184 Sartoria A. Caraceni 177 Sartoria Rossi 178 Sawaya & Moroni 190 Science Museum 105, 161 Serapian 178 Sergio Rossi 184 Sermoneta Gloves 36, 178 Seta Restaurant 146, 198 Sikélaia 198 Silvano Lattanzi 184 Simonetta Ravizza 178 Siniscalchi Camicie su misura 178 SIX 116 Sixième Bistrò 209 Society Limonta 190 Solar Disc 25 Spazio Milano 210 Spelta Milano 184 Stadio Meazza (San Siro) 161 Stefano Ricci 36, 178 Stella McCartney 178 Stone Island 178 Stuart Weitzman 184 Studio Giangaleazzo Visconti 161 Sutor Mantellassi 184

Raffaella Curiel 177 Ratanà 206 Red - Feltrinelli 193 Red Valentino 179 René Caovilla 183 Rick Owens 177 Ristorante Lucca 206 Ristorante Morelli 197 Ristorante Solferino 207 Rita & Cocktails 114, 221 Rivolta 183 Roberto Cavalli 177 Rocket 224 Rodo 184 Roger Vivier 184 Rolex Boutique 36, 187 Roman Amphitheater 87, 160 Rossana Orlandi 101, 190 Rotonda Bistrot 221 Rotonda della Besana 123, 124 Roy Rogers 177 Rubinacci 177

Sabbadini 187 Sadler 197 Sahrai 190 Saigon 203 Saint Laurent 177 Salvatore Ferragamo 177 Samsonite 184 San Lorenzo 105, 117, 151 241

Surferâ€™s Den Synagogue

Tibi Bistrot Provencal 221 Tiffany&co 36, 187 Tindaro De Luca 178 Todâ€™s 36, 184 Tokuyoshi 203 Tom Ford 178 Torre Branca 100, 162 Torre Unicredit 83 Torre Velasca 121 Torrefazione Moka Hodeidah 217 Tortona 102, 107 Tory Burch 178 Trattoria del Nuovo Macello 207 Trattoria del Pescatore 207 Triennale di Milano 89, 100, 156 Triennale Bookstore 193 Triennale Design Museum 89, 100, 161 Triennale Gardens 100 Trippa 208 Trussardi 179 Trussardi alla Scala 199 Tumi 185

221 130, 161

Tartufi Morra store 229 Taschen 193 Tearose 190 Teatro alla Scala 64, 116, 163 Teatro alla Scala museums 57, 161 Teatro alla Scala Il Marchesino 198 Teatro Burri 100 Teatro Carcano 163 Teatro Dal Verme 163 Teatro degli Arcimboldi 163 Teatro Franco Parenti 151, 163 Teatro Grassi 41, 163 Teatro Litta 163 Teatro Manzoni 163 Teatro Nazionale 163 Teatro Nuovo 163 Teatro Smeraldo 51 Teatro Strehler 41, 163 Teatro Studio Melato 41, 163 Terme di Milano 130 Terrazza 12 224 The American Bookstore 193 The Botanical Club 221 The Doping Club at The Yard hotel 221, 224 The Last Supper 20, 87, 89, 92, 156 The Spirit 221

Ulrico Hoepli Planetarium c/o Indro Montanelli Public Gardens 73, 82, 162 Uman 179 University of Milan La Statale 44, 121, 123, 162 242

Urbani Tartufi

Villa Menafoglio Litta Panza 230 Villa Milano 187 Villa Necchi Campiglio 80, 162 Villa Panza di Biumo 230 Villa Reale 73, 75, 82, 155 Villa Reale (Monza) 231 Vionnet 179 Vun 199

217

Valentino 179 Valextra 185 Valli Tessuti 190 Van Cleef & Arpels 187 Varese 230 Vasiliki Kouzina 203 Venini 190 Versace 28, 62, 179 Versace Collection 179 Vertical Forest 21, 83 Vetrerie di Empoli 190 Vhernier 187 Via della Spiga 27, 36 Via Gesù 34, 36 Via Manzoni 27, 36, 37 Via Montebello 50 Via Monte Napoleone 20, 25, 36, 37, 48, 68 Via San Marco 50 Via Sant’Andrea 27 Via Santo Spirito 34 Via Solferino 50 Via Spadari 55 Via Verri 36 Vilebrequin 179 Villa Balbianello 228 Villa Carlotta 228 Villa d’Este 228 Villa Invernizzi 82

Wait and See Wicky’s WP Store

Zadig & Voltaire

243

179 204 180 180

LEGEND Districts Fashion District Brera | Corso Como Duomo Porta Venezia | Garibaldi | Repubblica The Castle | Sempione | Magenta Navigli and Tortona | Porta Ticinese From the Centre to Porta Romana out Out of map Shopping Accessories Crafts Kids Menâ€™s Womenâ€™s Restaurants Gluten Free Vegetarian Vegan Kosher

244

With thanks to the management Mandarin Oriental, Milan

Mandarin Oriental, Milan Via Andegari, 9 - Milan Ph. +39 02 8731 8888 mandarinoriental.com

Editor in Chief

Matteo Parigi Bini

Editorial Director Donatella Brun

Consulting Editors

Rossella Graziani, Alessandra Ruggeri

Publisher Gruppo Editoriale

Alex Vittorio Lana, Matteo Parigi Bini

Authors

Teresa Favi, Francesca Lombardi

Editorial Staff

Sabrina Bozzoni, Virginia Mammoli, Mila Montagni, Pamela Pettinelli

Photos

Dario Garofalo

Graphic design

Martina Alessi, Chiara Bini

Translations

The Florentine

ÂŠ Via Piero della Francesca, 2 - Prato gruppoeditoriale.com

The authors and Gruppo Editoriale have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book. We make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content. Printed in January 2018

In partnership with

In partnership with: