Jk essencial guide

J.K. ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO FLORENCE III IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

(2015)

welcome

Welcome or welcome back to Florence. My beloved city, where J.K. Place was started in 2003. I suggest you take a walk through this wonderful open-air museum, with the help of this small but detailed guide to the city’s must-sees, and do your best to get lost in the maze of alleys: you will discover a rainbow of scents, flavors and sights as you have never experienced before.

Enjoy my beloved Firenze!

Claudio Meli General Manager J.K. Place Firenze

To Sylke, Sasha and Sophie, my muses

J.K. LOUNGE RESTAURANT & BAR

contents

the city Florence districts map

10

districts Santa Maria Novella

12

San Lorenzo

18

San Giovanni

24

San Niccolò

30

Santa Croce

36

Santo Spirito

42

San Frediano

48

itineraries Florence Jogging Track

54

Cinema & Theatre

56

Nightlife

58

Markets

60

Outiside Florence

62

SAN LORENZO SANTA MARIA NOVELLA

SAN FREDIANO

SAN GIOVA

SAN SANT SPIRI

N ANNI

NTO TO ITO

florence districts map

SANTA CROCE R VEER RIIV O OR N N R R A A

SAN NICCOLÒ

Santa Maria novella

The neighborhood, which covers a vast portion of northwestern Florence, is named after Tuscany’s major Gothicstyle church and is a place of deep contrasts between, in the space of a few hundred meters, the elegant Via Tornabuoni, the rustic Via Palazzuolo and the cosmopolitan train station area built around the famous modernist building by Giovanni Michelucci in the thirties. Art, fashion and lifestyle pour from every corner.

A neighborhood to be discovered at every turn.

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MuseumS & GallerIES Museums and monumental cloisters of Santa Maria Novella piazza Santa Maria Novella ph. 055 282187 The museum complex includes the cloisters of the ancient Santa Maria Novella Dominican monastery: the Green Cloister, entirely frescoed by Paolo Uccello, the Big Cloister, containing late sixteenthcentury frescoes, the Chiostrino dei morti and the Strozzi Chapel.

Palazzo Strozzi piazza Strozzi ph. 055 2776406 The building’s main floor hosts major temporary exhibitions. The lower level, below the courtyard, houses the Strozzina Center of Contemporary Culture, a platform for the production of contemporary art and culture.

Museo del Novecento piazza Santa Maria Novella, 10 ph. 055 286132 Devoted to Italian art of the 1900s, the Twentieth-Century Museum showcases a selection of about 300 works of art in 15 rooms. An immersive art experience, including multimedia facilities, audio devices and video rooms.

14 santa maria novella

Marino Marini Museum via della Spada, 1r ph. 055 219432 Housed in the deconsecrated church of San Pancrazio, the museum displays 183 works by artist Marino Marini (19011980).

Salvatore Ferragamo Museum via dei Tornabuoni, 2 ph. 055 3562455 A shoe collection documenting the entire career of Salvatore Ferragamo, from his return to Italy in 1927 to 1960, up to the present day, in addition to a series of objects representing the history of twentieth-century fashion.

Bacarelli AntichitĂ via dei Fossi 33/35r ph. 055 215457 The gallery, founded in 1923

by Rizieri Bacarelli and now directed by his grandson Riccardo is one of the most prestigious one in Italy and offers a wide selection of furniture, objects of art, paintings and sculptures from the renaissance to the end of eighteenth century.

Moretti Gallery piazza degli Ottaviani, 17r ph. 055 2654277 The gallery opened in 1999 with the exhibition From Bernardo Gaddi to Giorgio Vasari

and specializes in Early Art Italian paintings, in particular those by Tuscan artists.

PalaceS, GardenS and ChurchES Basilica of Santa Maria Novella piazza Santa Maria Novella ph. 055 282187 It is one of Tuscany’s major Gothic-style churches. The exterior is the work of Fra Jacopo Talenti and Leon Battista Alberti, while the interior contains masterpieces such as the Trinity by Masaccio and the Crucifix by Giotto.

Basilica of Santa Trinita piazza Santa Trinita, 3 ph. 055 216912 Built in the 11th century by the Vallombrosani monks in the Romanesque style. The Sassetti Chapel houses a famous cycle of frescoes, the Stories of St. Francis of Assisi (1482-1485), considered to be Domenico Ghirlandaio’s masterpiece.

Rucellai Chapel via della Spada ph. 055 216912 Adjacent the former church of San Pancrazio, stands this chapel designed by Leon Battista Alberti for the Ruccellai family, who entrusted the architect with the construction

of a small temple, inside the chapel, the same size as the Holy Sepulcher of Jerusalem.

Palazzo Antinori piazza Antinori, 3 ph. 055 2639685 A gem of Renaissance architecture, the fifty-room building has been the private residence and office of Marchesi Antinori since 1506. It was designed and built by Giuliano da Maiano in 1461 and extended by Baccio d’Agnolo in 1543.

Palazzo Corsini via del Parione, 11 ph. 055 218994 The building’s exterior decoration, carried out between 1692 and 1700, expresses one of the highest moments of Florentine painting. Among the painters employed by the Corsini family to decorate it are Anton Domenico Gabbiani, Alessandro Gherardini and Pier Dandini.

Palazzo Ricasoli piazza Goldoni, 2 ph. 055 2399316 Purchased by the Ricasoli family in 1480, in 1565, the palazzo and square facing 16 santa maria novella the building hosted the wedding ceremony of Francesco santa maria novella 15

I de’ Medici and Giovanna of Austria and was home to the Ricasolis until the mid- 1700s.

Palazzo Rucellai via della Vigna Nuova, 18 ph. 055 2645910 The building, which now houses the National Alinari Museum of Photography, was built between 1446 and 1451 by Bernardo Rossellino to the design of Leon Battista Alberti and commissioned

by Giovanni Rucellai.

MADE IN FLORENCE Il Bisonte via del Parione 31-33r, ph. 055 215722 Wanny de Filippo is the creator and designer behind this worldwide-popular Florentine brand.

Leather bags and accessories since 1970.

Faliero Sarti via della Spada, 24r ph. 055 2396538 A world of stoles and scarves, the fruit of high craftsmanship and quality, for men, women and children.

Ask for the flag scarf and take a look at the endless patterns, inspired by art and by Monica Sarti’s inner world.

16 santa maria novella

La Bottega di Corte via del Sole, 11 ph. 055 265 7635 Fabrics and decorative accessories chosen in England, France, Italy and exquisitely reinvented. An unique place in Florence where every piece is created for one owner, one house, one individual dream.

Il Parione via dello Studio, 11r ph. 055 215684 One of the city’s best-known print and bookbinder’s shops, with a history of printing and bookbinding with traditional techniques.

From business cards to invitations with artistic tooling and hand-decorated paper.

Liverano & Liverano sartoria via dei Fossi, 43r ph. 055 2396436 Antonio Liverano is a tailor of long-standing tradition: he personally takes the measurements and cuts out the fabric according to the Florentine school rules.

Loretta Caponi piazza Antinori, 4r ph. 055 213668 For over 40 years, Loretta Caponi has been making luxury craft goods. Her boutique-atelier is housed in Palazzo Aldobrandini.

Officina Profumo Farmaceutica Santa Maria Novella via della Scala, 16 ph. 055 216276 The pharmacy’s origins are tied to the Dominican Friars who settled in Florence in 1221. It was founded in the year 1621.

Food Buca Lapi via Trebbio, 1r ph. 055 213768 One of the oldest Florentine restaurants housed in Palazzo Antinori’s winecellars. Typical Tuscan dishes served by Luciano, the “master of the house”.

Buca Mario piazza degli Ottaviani, 16r ph. 055 214179 Since 1886, located in the heart of Florence in the wine-cellars of Palazzo Niccolini, Buca Mario offers customers the genuine taste of typical Tuscan cooking.

Cantinetta Antinori piazza degli Antinori, 3 ph. 055 292234 Housed in Palazzo Antinori in Via Tornabuoni, a traditional high-quality restaurant. Excellent wine list.

Latini via dei Palchetti, 6r ph. 055 210916 An old trattoria with tables to be shared with other patrons. Excellent Florentinestyle Tbone steak. Wine cellar for private dinners.

Trattoria Gargani via del Moro 48r ph. 055 2398898 One of the historical Trattorias in Florence, also known for being the “Trattoria of Artists”.

Its very original environment, characterized by unusual frescoed decor combined with exposed brickwork and its warm atmosphere makes this place a very unique one.

Trattoria Parione via della Vigna Nuova, 17r ph. 055 214005 Housed in a 14th-century building, this trattoria serves a modern, refined version of typical Tuscan dishes.

Osteria delle Belle Donne via delle Belle Donne, 16r ph. 055 238 26 09 Tuscan rustic-style interiors combined with an elegant and intimate atmosphere.

Traditional Tuscan dishes and house specialties, such as ossobuco and chestnut pudding.

The restaurant also has a 25seat room for private parties. santa maria novella 17

SAN LORENZO

The neighborhood was built around the Basilica of San Lorenzo, consecrated in 393, Florence’s first cathedral.

It was the center of power in the Renaissance age thanks to its most illustrious residents, the Medicis, who filled it with extraordinary monuments: Palazzo Medici Riccardi, the typical example of a Renaissance-style building, the new Basilica rebuilt by Filippo Brunelleschi and decorated by Michelangelo, the Chapel of the Princes preserving the remains of the Grand Dukes. This is where Carlo Lorenzini, better known by the name Collodi, the author of The adventures of Pinocchio, was born.

18 san lorenzo

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MuseumS & GallerIES Accademia Gallery via Ricasoli, 60 ph. 055 294883 It houses the original David, the unfinished Prisoners and statue of Saint Matthew by Michelangelo, in addition to major works of art from the Academy of Drawing, the Academy of Fine Arts and abolished convents.

Medici Chapel Museum piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6 ph. 055 294883 It consists of the Sagrestia Nuova (New Sacristy), designed by Michelangelo, the Cappella dei Principi (Chapel of Princes), a monumental hardstone mausoleum, the Crypt, where the Grand Dukes and members of the Medici family are buried, and the Lorena Crypt, containing the tomb of Cosimo il Vecchio and remains of Lorena family members. Medicean Laurentian Library and Cloister piazza di San Lorenzo, 9 ph. 055 210760 The library is renowned for its collection of about 11.000 manuscripts and the building that houses it, designed by Michelangelo Buonarroti.

20 san lorenzo

Innocenti Museum piazza Santissima Annunziata, 12 ph. 055 2037323 It boasts a collection of about fifty works of art, among which the Adoration of the Magi by Domenico Ghirlandaio, the Virgin Mary with Child by Luca della Robbia and Virgin Mary with Child by Sandro Botticelli.

San Marco Museum Piazza San Marco, 3 ph. 055 2388608 It is housed in the oldest portion of the Dominican monastery that Michelozzo was commissioned to rebuild by Cosimo il Vecchio de’ Medici between 1436 and 1446.

Archaelogical Museum Piazza Santissima Annunziata,9b ph. 055 23575 A museum exploring the history of Tuscany: from the extraordinary collection of Etruscan finds of the 9th century B.C. to Egyptian and Greek antiquities.

Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietredure via degli Alfani, 78 ph. 055 26511 This small museum, funded by the Miedicis in the late 1500s, houses a precious variety of stunning semi-precious stone

mosaics, including cabinets, table tops and plates, flowers, fruits and animals, but also some picturesque scenes, including a famous view of the Piazza della Signoria. Inside the famous laboratory where all the most important Renaissance masterpieces are restored.

PalaceS, GardenS and ChurchES Basilica of San Lorenzo piazza San Lorenzo ph. 055 2049266 It is Florence’s oldest church.

Consecrated by St. Ambrose in 393, it was built twice: once in 1059 in the Romanesque style and a second time to the design of Brunelleschi. The old sacristy was designed by Brunelleschi and decorated with frescoes by Donatello. The New Sacristy, which contains the tombs of Lorenzo the Magnificent and Giuliano de’ Medici, was designed by Michelangelo.

Basilica of Santissima Annunziata piazza Santissima Annunziata ph. 055 266181 The church was built thanks to Michelozzo, who de-

signed the first cloister, and Alberti. The interior is filled with frescoes by Andrea del Sarto, Pontormo and Rosso Fiorentino.

Basilica of San Marco piazza San Marco, 1 ph. 055 2388608

The neoclassical facade dates back to the mid-1700s, while the interior features a nave and several side chapels designed by Giambologna in the late 1500s.

Cenacle of Sant’Apollonia via XXVII Aprile, 1 ph. 055 2388607

The cenacle is only a portion of what was once the big convent of Sant’Apollonia.

The walls are decorated with frescoes by Andrea del Castagno.

Palazzo Medici Riccardi via Cavour, 3 ph. 055 2760340

Built in the mid-1400s by Michelozzo, the building is one of the finest examples of Renaissance-style civil architecture and the symbol of the Medicis’ political and cultural supremacy in Florence.

Semplici Garden via Pier Antonio Micheli, 3 ph. 055 2757402

Its Botanical Garden, is the third oldest in the world.

san lorenzo 21

After the gardens of Pisa and Padova. Spreading over an area of 23.892 square meters. It was founded on December 1, 1545 by Cosimo I de’ Medici.

Fortezza da Basso viale Filippo Strozzi, 1 ph. 055 49721

Designed by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger between 1533 and 1534 and built on the edge of the medieval town, today the fortress is used to host the city’s major fairs and events.

MADE IN FLORENCE Abacus via Ginori, 28-30r ph. 055 219719 It specializes in the preservation and restoration of antique books by using traditional techniques. The books are sewn and bound by hand.

Casa Musicale Ceccherini via dei Ginori, 15 ph. 055 217584 At music’s service since 1830, this is the place for music enthusiasts and the most demanding musicians.

Desii vintage via dei Conti, 19r ph. 055 2302817 A big “trunk” containing men’s and women’s clothing 22 san lorenzo

and accessories, most of which unobtainable elsewhere.

Fratelli Rigacci via dei Servi, 71r ph. 055 216206

Started in 1925, it has been the gathering place of illustrious artists for many years.

Today it makes custom- made canvases by using an age-old and secret mixture of chalk, honey and rabbit-skin glue.

Passamaneria Toscana via dei Conti, 49r ph. 055 214670

Founded in the early fifties, Passamaneria Toscana keeps passing on the tradition of Florentine style Renaissance decoration.

Libreria Antiquaria Gonnelli via Ricasoli, 6r ph. 055 216835

It is one of Italy’s oldest and best-known antique bookshops, still owned by the same family and located on the same premises- in Via Ricasoli, just steps away from the Duomo- since its opening in 1875.

Bottega d’arte Maselli via deI Ginori, 51r ph. 055 282142

Unique frames to suit all tastes. Customers can choose from a wide range of about 600 models, or create their own personalized frames.

Very detailed artisan creations and impeccable quality since 1955.

Food Mercato Centrale piazza del Mercato Centrale via dell’Ariento A gourmand’s paradise in the heart of Florence. On the first floor of Florence’s oldest covered food market, a threethousand-square-meter space devoted to food and wine: 500 seats, 14 shops, restaurant, pizzeria, pub, café, cooking and wine school and bookshop in the most extraordinary location.

Antica Pasticceria Sieni via dell’Ariento, 29r ph. 055 213830 Started in the early 1900s, this pastry shop has created some of the most popular Italian cakes, such as Torta Fedora, Zuccotto, Torta della Nonna alle Meringhe.

Conti Stefano via Signa, 300 ph. 055 2398501 Located inside the Central Market since 1929, it sells the best DOC natural food products, from early and seasonal produce to the many different varieties of wild salad and white truffle.

Da Nerbone piazza del Mercato Centrale, 47r ph. 055 219949 Located inside the Central Market, it is the number one place for a panino with lampredotto or with boiled meat and salsa verde. It also serves pasta and second-course dishes.

Mario via Rosina, 2r, ph. 055 218550 A truly picturesque trattoria.

Excellent T-bone steak. It offers a friendly service and a mix of tourists and regular local customers. Open only for lunch.

La Ménagère via dei Ginori, 8r ph. 055 0750600 Florence’s first shop of household items, established in 1896, is now an innovative concept-restaurant. Friendly but elegant atmosphere and excellent cuisine, based on creativity and use of natural and seasonal ingredients.

Sergio Gozzi piazza San Lorenzo, 8r ph. 055 281941 Hidden behind the market stalls, it is a casual, unpretentious trattoria with an oldstyle Florentine atmosphere.

Simple but wellmade dishes.

san lorenzo 23

SAN GIOVANNI

It is the neighborhood that best expresses the city’s Renaissance artistry and grandeur. It is dominated by Piazza del Duomo. Beyond Via Calzaiuoli stands the Misericordia headquarters and the huge statues of Brunelleschi and Canova, guarding the entrance to Palazzo dei Canonici, lead to the Bottega dell’Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore. Piazza della Signoria, with its magnificent Loggia dei Lanzi and statues, is the city’s political and administrative center. Last but not least, the Uffizi Gallery, the world’s greatest museum of Renaissance art.

24 san giovanni

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MuseumS & GallerIES Uffizi Gallery piazzale degli Uffizi, 6 ph. 055 2388651 One of the world’s best known museums. The Gallery is located on the last floor of the imposing building designed

by Giorgio Vasari. The Gallery it houses the world’s masterpieces since the time of Leonardo, Michelangelo, Raffaello, Botticelli, Caravaggio, Giotto, Tiziano and many more.

Vasari Corridor piazzale degli Uffizi, 6 ph. 055 2388651 The world-famous elevated passageway connecting Palazzo Vecchio to Palazzo Pitti, built in 1565 by architect Giorgio Vasari for the Grand Duke Cosimo I de’ Medici. For private tours contact Bravo! Concierge (www.bravoconcierge.com) Opera del Duomo Museum piazza del Duomo, 8 ph. 055 230885 An imposing museum housing masterworks by major Renaissance artists, in addition to an extraordinary life-size reconstruction of the Cathedral of Florence’s first façade, placed opposite Lorenzo Ghiberti’s “Gates of Paradise”in 1296.

26 san giovanni

Museum of Orsanmichele via dell’Arte della Lana, 3 ph. 055 284944 The museum displays 11 out of the 14 statues adorning the façade niches, masterpieces by great fifteenth-century Florentine artists such as Verrocchio, Ghiberti, Donatello and Luca della Robbia.

Palazzo Davanzati Museum via di Porta Rossa, 13 ph. 055 2388610 Also known as the Museum of the Ancient Florentine House for its fine collection of furniture, furnishings and objects of everyday use.

Gucci Museum piazza della Signoria, 10 ph. 055 75923300 Housed in the Palazzo della Mercanzia, the three-floor museum is dedicated to the history of the Florentine fashion house and includes an exhibition space.

Children’s Museum in Palazzo Vecchio piazza della Signoria, 1 ph. 055 2768224 A tour of the magnificent Palazzo Vecchio’s secret passages for children and families. A must-see when travelling with children.

PalaceS, gardenS & ChurchES Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore piazza del Duomo ph. 055 215380 Works on the church, designed

by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1296, were overseen by Giotto, Andrea Pisano and completed

by Francesco Talenti in 1369.

The most imposing part of the church is the dome, designed and engineered by Filippo Brunelleschi. The nave and two aisles are decorated with frescoes by Vasari, Zuccari and Paolo Uccello, the stained glass windows are the work of Ghiberti.

Giotto’s Bell Tower piazza del Duomo ph. 055 2302885 Begun by Giotto in 1334, after his death the construction of the bell tower was carried on

by Andrea Pisano, along with the exterior decorations by Alberto Arnoldi, and completed

by Francesco Talenti.

St. John Baptistery piazza San Giovanni ph. 055 2302885 The interior features an octagonal mosaic ceiling by Jacopo Torriti, Coppo di Marcovaldo and Cimabue. The three sets

of bronze doors were designed

by Andrea Pisano and Lorenzo Ghiberti. Ghiberti’s famous Gates of Paradise can now be seen in the new Opera del Duomo Museum.

Church of Orsanmichele At the corner of via Arte della Lana and via Calzaiuoli, ph. 055 23575

Constructed on the site of the Oratory of San Michele in 1336, the building originally served as grain market and its first floor was converted into a church in 1380.

Church of Santa Margherita dei Cerchi via Santa Margherita

The small church of Santa Margherita dei Cerchi is located near the house of Dante Alighieri, which is now a museum dedicated to the great poet.

Palazzo Vecchio piazza della Signoria, 1 ph. 055 2768325

The interior houses major Renaissance sculptures, such as The Genius of Victory by Michelangelo and Judith and Holofernes by Donatello.

Palagio di Parte Guelfa piazza di Parte Guelfa, 1 ph. 055 2616029

It was the headquarters of the Guelf party in the years of struggle against the Ghibellines.

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The section giving onto Via del Capaccio is attributed to Brunelleschi, the small loggia was added by Vasari and the painted stone House of Medici crest was sculpted by Giambologna. The lunette above the façade portal and two angels is the work of Luca della Robbia.

MADE IN FLORENCE Annamaria Cammilli Firenze via Vacchereccia, 12r ph. 055 2608617 Annamaria Cammilli, designer, painter and sculptress gives life to her creations inspired by nature enhancing the union between art and fashion. This original jewelry “100% made in Florence”.

Bottega delle Antiche Terme borgo SS. Apostoli, 16 ph. 055 210552 Simone Abbarchi follows all the steps required in the art of made-to-measure shirting, from the choice of fabrics to customization.

Dr. Vranjes via San Gallo, 63r ph. 055 494537 This is probably the loveliest among the stores selling the exclusive products by Dr. Paolo Vranjes, a passionate creator 28 san giovanni

of home fragrances, cosmetics and perfumes unique of their kind. Ask for J.K. Bespoke fragrance made exclusively for J.K. Place Firenze You can visit the company-workshop based in Antella, just outside Florence, by appointment and have a custom-made perfume created for you.

Farmacia SS Annunziata via dei Servi, 80r ph. 055 210728

Since 1561 down to the present day, nothing has changed in the way this pharmacy makes galenical preparations, beauty and skincare products.

Cassetti Gioielli Ponte Vecchio, 29r ph. 055 2741044

Located on the amazing Ponte Vecchio, an incredibly space devoted to the art of jewelrymaking. A true atelier, where the Cassetti family’s goldsmithing tradition blends with contemporary sensibility. The shop offers also luxury watch and jewelry brands.

Jamie Lazzara via dei Leoni, 4r ph. 055 280573

A career as first violinist developed into the manufacturing of precious instruments: violins and cellos made of maple wood.

Officine Panerai piazza S. Giovanni, 16r ph. 055 215795 Founded in 1860 in Florence as a laboratory to supply the Royal Italian Navy with highprecision instruments, Panerai brought all its technical excellence and exclusive design in its unique watches.

Food Caffè Gilli at the corner of via Roma, 1r and piazza della Repubblica, 3r ph. 055 213896 Charm and tradition since 1733. Well-known for its pastries, interesting wine list, impeccable restaurant and cocktail service.

Coquinarius via delle Oche, 15r ph. 055 2302153 Unusual dishes, excellent pasta and delicious savoury pies.

The carefully crafted wine list offers a selection of small producers that make great wines.

Eataly via dei Martelli, 22 ph. 055 0153601 The Mecca of Italian food. The philosophy is: eat, buy and learn. Located on the first floor is the gourmet restaurant Da Vinci.

Gelateria RivaReno Borgo Albizi, 46 ph. 055 0118039 A pleasure for the palate and unique characteristics recognizable at first taste. RivaReno ice cream is the perfect combination of intense flavour and incredibly smooth texture.

I Fratellini via dei Cimatori, 38r ph. 055 2396096 Incredibly tasty sandwiches with typical cheese and salami and a glass of wine: you drink and eat standing on the sidewalk with the many other patrons.

Il Locale Via delle Seggiole, 12 Ph. 055 9067188 The historic building Palazzo Tornaquinci is now a restaurant and wine bar. Open every day, from aperitivo time to late at night, it has a lovely winter garden and retro atmosphere, combined with contemporary, minimalist-style interiors.

Ora d’aria via dei Georgofili, 11r ph. 055 2001699 Elegant and modern one Michelin–starred restaurant downtown Florence serving top-quality dishes prepared by chef Marco Stabile.

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SAN NICCOLò

It is the place where you can still take in the feeling and atmosphere of Florence gone by, one of the city’s most picturesque and yet less touristy neighborhoods. Via San Niccolò runs along the easternmost portion of the Oltrarno area and offers an eclectic blend of medieval and Renaissance-style buildings, gardens and parks, delicatessens, craft shops, art galleries, restaurants and bars that liven up when the sun goes down.

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MUSEums, GALLERies & Monuments Bardini Museum via dei Renai, 57 ph. 055 2342427 The former convent of San Gregorio della Pace was converted into an imposing neo-Renaissance building by the owner, antique dealer Stefano Bardini.

He created a museum out of his private collection.

Casa Siviero Museum lungarno Serristori, 1-3 ph. 055 2345219 Rodolfo Siviero, who served as Minister in the fifties, was also the “art detective” who brought back to Italy many works of art stolen during World War Two. Roberto Capucci Foundation Museum villa Bardini, costa San Giorgio, 2 ph. 055 20066209 Dedicated to the career of fashion designer Roberto Capucci, the museum was permanently opened on October 18, 2008.

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San Niccolò Tower piazza Giuseppe Poggi The monument is testimonial to the city’s history. Its stones tell the story of over five centuries of Florentine life.

Base progetti per l’arte via San Niccolò, 18r ph. 055 679378 A gallery, curated by a group of artists living and working in Tuscany, which promotes contemporary art and international exchange.

Il Bisonte Foundation via San Niccolò, 24r ph. 055 2342585 Picasso, in 1960, had the only lithograph he ever made in Italy printed at the Bisonte. In 1983, the Bisonte became a cultural center and, shortly after, the International School of Graphics.

Clet’s Studio Via dell’Olmo, 8r Clet is a French artist from the Bretagne region, that lives in Florence from a few years. Clet’s street art is very unique in that he does not use walls or buildings to display his work, but he chooses to use road signs.

PalaceS, GardenS & ChurchES Basilica of San Miniato al Monte via delle Porte Sante, 34 ph. 055 2342731 One of the masterpieces of Florentine Romanesque architecture, inspired by the solid and geometrical classicism of monumental Roman buildings.

Church of San Salvatore al Monte via S. Salvatore al Monte, 9 A masterpiece of Renaissance architecture, it is set on the hill behind Piazzale Michelangelo, known as Monte delle Croci, just below the Basilica of San Miniato.

Forte Belvedere via San Leonardo, 1 ph. 055 290832 One of the two fortresses of Florence, this famous fortification with panoramic view stands on top of the Boboli hill. It was built in the period 1590- 1595 by Grand Duke Ferdinando I de’ Medici, son of Cosimo I. Palazzo Mozzi via San Niccolò, 121-123 ph. 055 2342427 Built in the mid-1300s to de-

fend the Rubaconte Bridge (today’s Ponte alle Grazie), the building features a fortress- like exterior.

Bardini Garden Entrance from via dei Bardi, 1r and Costa San Giorgio, 2 ph. 055 20066206 Four hectares of woods, gardens and orchards surrounded by the medieval city walls, between Costa San Giorgio and Borgo San Niccolò.

Iris Garden via Bolognese, 17 ph. 055 483112 Created by a group of passionate iris growers, it displays over 1500 varieties of this flower, which has been the symbol of Florence since 1251, found worldwide and in full bloom.

Open only in May. Rose Garden viale Giuseppe Poggi, 2 ph. 055 2342426 Designed by Giuseppe Poggi in 1865, the garden features over 1000 plant varieties, including 350 old rose species, and several works by Belgian artist JeanMichel Folon. san niccolò 33

made in florence Alessandro Dari via San Niccolò, 115r ph. 055 244747 One of the first who applied the principles of architecture and anatomy to contemporary jewelry. A self-taught person, he has transformed his house in a workshop, showroom and school: he teaches private classes for up to six students, to introduce them to the secrets behind his creations, true works of sculpture.

Arte delle carte Lungarno Torrigiani, 31 ph. 055 2001526 Unique gift and art objects in leather, wood and marble paper.

Bettina Schindler via San Niccolò, 99r ph. 055 2340693 Visit- by appointment onlythis small workshop that restores antiques and gives a glimpse into the age-old techniques of inlay, turnery and engraving.

Lorenzo Villoresi via dei Bardi, 14 ph. 055 2341187 His workshop welcomes customers from all over the world in search of custom34 san niccolò

made perfumes.

The master perfumer listens carefully, ponders and creates. His perfume collection is equally excellent.

Maria Teresa Sottile via Guicciardini, 16 ph. 338 7425653 A jewelry designer just steps from the Ponte Vecchio. Ongoing research on trends and cooperation with fashion designers.

Il Torchio via dei Bardi, 17 ph. 055 2342862 It manufactures and sells photo albums, diaries, notebooks, frames, address books and other handmade objects, even made to order.

Valterio Certini via di San Niccolò, 2 ph. 055 2269610 In an ancient sacristy in Via San Niccolò, Valterio Certini makes wrought iron flowers and branches that become chandeliers, coat hooks, frames, candelabra, umbrella stands.

Then he paints them with watercolors and covers with gold leaf.

FOOD Ditta Artigianale via dei Neri, 32r ph. 055 2741541 The first Italian “coffee bar” offering a variety of carefully selected and freshlyroasted coffee blends. In addition to coffee, teas, cakes and international-style dishes, for a brunch or informal but tasty meals.

Fuori Porta via del Monte alle Croci, 10 ph. 055 2342483 A popular wine bar offering 600 labels and a variety of crostoni, salads and a small but inviting choice of hot dishes carefully selected wines. Excellent desserts.

La Bottega del Buon Caffè Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69r ph. 055 5535677 A one-Michelin-starred restaurant.

The philosophy: serving delicious and beautifully-presented dishes, based on the use of the best local ingredients, in an inspiring and relaxing atmosphere. Try the innovative culinary experience “Orto da gustare”.

Excellent wine list.

Il Rifrullo via San Niccolò, 55r ph. 055 2008155 A popular hang-out for Florentine night birds, from lunch to aperitivo time to dinner, outside in the garden from May to September.

Lungarno 23 Lungarno Torrigiani, 23 ph. 055 2345957 Hamburger made of genuine Chianina beef made only with meat directly from the farms in the area of origin. accompanied by an excellent selection of local wine in a lively and cool atmosphere.

Osteria Antica Mescita via San Niccolò, 60r ph. 055 2342836 Marble and wooden tables, rustic-style, yellow paper placemats and typical Tuscan menu. Choose a table outside on the small terrace and enjoy the nightlife.

Zeb gastronomia via San Miniato, 2r ph. 055 2342864 The modern version of a typical Tuscan delicatessen: on one side of the counter you buy whatever you like, on the other you have a seat and enjoy the dishes prepared by mamma Giuseppina. san niccolò 35

SANTA CROCE

The biggest among Florence’s medieval neighborhoods, today Santa Croce is a mix of art, culture and business, but also a nightlife hotspot. For centuries, the square has been a gathering and entertainment space, the stage for tournaments, celebrations and public events since the fourteenth century and it still hosts the Calcio Fiorentino matches, as well as seasonal markets and other major events.

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MUSEumS & gallerIES National Bargello Museum via del Proconsolo, 4a ph. 055 294883 Since 1865, the palazzo, converted into National Museum, has been housing major Renaissance sculptures, among which masterpieces by Donatello, Luca della Robbia, Verrocchio, Michelangelo and Cellini.

Opera di Santa Croce Museum piazza Santa Croce, 16 ph. 055 2269366 The museum houses works of art formerly kept in the Church of Santa Croce, among which the bronze statue of San Ludovico da Tolosa by Donatello and the magnificent Crucifix, painted by Cimabue around 1280.

Casa Buonarroti via Ghibellina, 70 ph. 055 241752 Michelangelo’s descendants have been collecting the artist’s works over time: drawings and sketches of sculptures made by the greatest artist of the Renaissance age.

National Museum of Anthropology and Ethnology via del Proconsolo, 12 ph. 055 2396449 Displayed in the museum’s 25 38 santa croce

rooms, a vast collection covering most of the world’s populations: from Africa, Asia, Oceania to the Amazonian tribes.

Documentation and preservation of the finds began in the Medicean period and continued over the centuries with the many expeditions that followed, in particular, the third expedition by Sir James Cook.

Science Museum piazza dei Giudici, 1 ph. 055 265311 The Galileo Museum, reopened to the public in 2010, displays one of the world’s most important scientific collections in the late eleventhcentury Palazzo Castellani.

Horne Museum via dei Benci, 6 ph. 055 244661 Art objects and paintings (by Giotto, Simone Martini, Masaccio, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Beccafumi, Giambologna) and a house, furnished

by British collector Herbert Percy Horne, who lived in Florence from 1896 to 1916.

Museum of Jewish History and Art via Farini, 4 ph. 055 245252 Housed on the first floor of the Synagogue, the museum documents the history of

Florence’s Jewish community and its relationship with the city over the centuries.

Palaces, GardenS & ChurchES Basilica of Santa Croce piazza Santa Croce, 16 ph. 055 2466105 One of Italy’s oldest and biggest Franciscan churches and highest expressions of the Gothic style. Adjacent the church is the monastery with its two chapels, novitiate, chapterhouse and refectory. The church houses the tombs of famous artists, men of letters and scientists, and works of art by great painters and sculptors. There is also a beautiful garden.

Church of Sant’Ambrogio piazza Sant’Ambrogio ph. 055 268510 This church brims with history and atmosphere. The tabernacle by Mino da Fiesole contains a chalice associated with a miracle: on December 30, 1230, the parish priest found a few drops of coagulated blood in the chalice, which are now preserved in a crystal ampulla.

National Library piazza dei Cavalleggeri, 1a ph. 055 249191 Housed in a monumental building on the Lungarno, adjacent the Basilica of Santa Croce, is one of Europe’s and Italy’s biggest libraries. It contains about 6.000.000 printed volumes, 2.689.672 booklets, 25.000 manuscripts, 4.000 incunabula, 29.000 sixteenthcentury editions and over one million autographs.

Pazzi Chapel piazza Santa Croce, 16 ph. 055 2466105 Set in the first cloister of the Basilica of Santa Croce, it was built around 1445 to the design of Filippo Brunelleschi. It is a masterpiece of Renaissance-style architecture. The cupola over the entrance shows a polychrome decoration by Luca della Robbia.

Palazzo Antinori - Corsini Serristori borgo Santa Croce, 6 The palazzo was built for the Serristori family between the late 1400s and early 1500s and is a major example of Renaissance architecture.

Palazzo Cocchi - Serristori piazza Santa Croce, 1 ph. 055 360473 One of the square’s most interesting buildings, facing the church, cube-shaped santa croce 39

and with an elegant facade, the result of many changes over the centuries. The original design is by Giuliano da Sangallo, Lorenzo the Magnificent’s favorite architect.

Palazzo dell’Antella piazza Santa Croce, 21 ph. 055 27681 The building’s facade is one of the square’s most distinguishing features. The exterior decoration includes a bust of Cosimo II de’ Medici, based on the prototype

by Caccini.

Made in florence Antica Farmacia del Canto alle Rondini via Pietrapiana, 83r ph. 055 240703 Founded in the 14th century, it is one of the world’s oldest pharmacies. It displays a terracotta bust of Dante “the divine pharmacist”.

Borselli Cornici via Ghibellina, 28r ph. 055 2476873 Production, restoration and placing of custom-made wooden frames, mirrors and paintings.

Lacquering, gilding and polishing of wooden and wrought-iron furniture; in situ restoration of frames and art objects.

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Filistrucchi via Giuseppe Verdi, 9 ph. 055 213861 It is Florence’s oldest store, started in 1720 when the wig fashion spread to Italy. It specializes also in theatrical makeup and hairdressing.

Antica Coltelleria Fiorentina via dei Neri, 63r ph. 055 294090 Founded in 1932 by Ugo Naldini, this shop has always specialized in sharpening blades and selling kitchen knives, pocket knives and collectible knives, scissors and other cutting implements.

Pandora Decor via Ghibellina, 101r ph. 055 264033 It specializes in twentiethcentury design and restores furniture and furnishing objects of French origin.

Sbigoli Terrecotte via San Egidio, 4r ph. 055 2479713 Pottery is made by hand in the workshop next to the store, which offers a wide choice of tableware, ceramics, tiles, panels and decorations.

Scuola del Cuoio via San Giuseppe, 5r ph. 055 244533 Housed in the former dormito-

ry of the Franciscan monastery of the Church of Santa Croce, designed by Michelozzo and frescoed by Ghirlandaio’s pupils: a oneof- the-kind location and unique creations.

Food Boccanegra via Ghibellina, 124r ph. 055 2001098 Three separate areas: the restaurant, opposite the Verdi Theatre; the Wine Bar serving typical dishes, and the pizzeria.

Excellent service and food.

Cucina Torcicoda Firenze via Torta, 5r ph. 055 2654329 Located in the heart of Florence, just two steps away from stunning Santa Croce Church, this brand new temple of savors, will impress the most demanding palates with: a gourmet restaurant, a traditional Osteria, a wood-burning oven pizza, an artisan gelato and a shop with sale of excellent foods and wines.

Enoteca Pinchiorri via Ghibellina, 87 ph. 055 242777 Ranked among the world’s ten best restaurants, three Michelinstarred. A wine cellar filled with the world’s

finest wines. Elegant ambience, perfect service.

Gilda Bistrot piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti, 40r ph. 055 2343885 Typical Florentine dishes to be enjoyed in a picturesque and well-tended ambience.

On the lower floor is a onetable room for private dinners.

La Giostra borgo Pinti, 10r ph. 055 241341 Excellent Mediterranean cuisine with a touch of NorthEuropean creativity. Extensive wine list, special atmosphere. Soldano, the owner, is the cherry on the cake.

Teatro del Sale via dei Macci, 111r ph. 055 2001492 The well-known restaurant of celebrity chef Fabio Picchi who introduces the menu items from the kitchen. Dinner is followed by entertainment: either plays, concerts or cultural events nearly every evening.

Vestri borgo degli Albizi, 11r ph. 055 2340374 A craft chocolate paradise you cannot resist. For hot chocolate in wintertime or for purchases gift-wrapped on the spot.

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SANTO SPIRITO

The boho-chic neighborhood of the so-called Oltrarno area (Florentines call it Diladdarno) is one of the city’s loveliest districts and still populated with locals. The heart of the neighborhood is the square, which is home to the Church of Santo Spirito featuring the beautiful façade by Brunelleschi, with its street market and lively nightlife. There are very few tourists, the neighborhood is filled with Florentines and picturesque characters, such as the gossipy greengrocer, the tipsy craftsman, the old American lady with her two annoying lap dogs and the noblewoman rummaging the market stalls for bargains.

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MUSEumS & gallerIES Palazzo Pitti piazza de’ Pitti, 1 ph. 055 294883 Many museums housed in one magnificent palazzo: Art Gallery, Costume Gallery, Palatina Gallery and Royal Apartments.

Specola Museum via Romana, 17 ph. 055 2288251 Founded by Grand Duke Pietro Leopoldo of Lorena, it was opened to the public in 1775 and is Europe’s oldest scientific museum. It houses the world’s largest collection of anatomical wax models.

Gallery of plaster casts of the Public Art Institute piazzale di Porta Romana, 9 ph. 055 220521 It displays Italy’s most interesting plaster cast collection, in particular, of Tuscan Renaissance art.

Tethys Gallery via Maggio, 58r ph. 055 2286064 The only Florentine gallery devoted to contemporary photography, offering a rich program of temporary photographic exhibitions and a 44 santo spirito

selection of works by wellknown and up-and-coming artists.

Guido Bartolozzi Antichità via Maggio, 18r ph. 055 215602 Founded in 1887, the antique shop still has the so-called bande, old and original wooden shuts. The exhibition gallery is housed in the family-owned Palazzo Michelozzi.

Art Gallery Frediano Farsetti lungarno Guicciardini 21-23r, ph. 055 210107 The gallery focuses on great twentieth-century artists: among the many big exhibitions held are Pablo Picasso and some friends in Paris and Lucio Fontana, a maestro and his techniques.

Cango, Cantieri Culturali Goldonetta via Santa Maria, 23-25 ph. 055 2280525 It is the “headquarters” of the famous Virgilio Sieni dancing company. Having enjoyed many years of glory until 1859, the small and precious Goldoni theatre has been recently restored to its original splendor.

PALAceS, GardenS & chur chES Church of Santo Spirito piazza Santo Spirito, 8r ph. 055 214032 Set on the northern side of the piazza is Filippo Brunelleschi’s Swan Song: the Basilica of Santo Spirito, commissioned in 1428 but completed only after his death. Definitely worth seeing is the Virgin Mary with Child and Saints by Filippino Lippi.

Church of Santa Felicita piazza di Santa Felicita, 3 ph. 055 284944 It is one of the city’s oldest churches, dating back to the Roman age. The exterior features a portico that holds up the Vasari Corridor. The interior contains masterpieces

by Bronzino and Pontormo.

Palazzo of Bianca Cappello via Maggio, 26 ph. 055 294971 Buontalenti was commissioned with the construction of the palazzo by Francesco I de’ Medici for the beautiful young Venetian lady, his lover and later wife. The magnificent façade features a sgraffito decoration by Poccetti.

Palazzo Frescobaldi via Santo Spirito 11-13 It was built in the 17th century by Matteo Frescobaldi to merge the family’s properties in the area into one beautiful building. The entrance gives onto a gated hallway that leads to a small courtyard decorated with columns.

Palazzo Settimanni At the corner of via della Caldaie, 5 and via dei Preti This sixteenth-century palazzo features audacious architectural elements for the time, such as the porthole windows decorating the attic. It has been the headquarters and showroom of Florence-based Gucci fashion house since 1953.

Boboli Gardens piazza de’ Pitti, 1 ph. 055 2388786 A true open-air museum, filled with antique and Renaissance-style statues, decorated with grottos and big fountains behind Palazzo Pitti. The Medicis laid the garden out in the Italian style which inspired many other European Courts. santo spirito 45

Torrigiani Garden via dei Serragli, 144 ph. 055 224527 It is the typical example of an early nineteenth-century Romantic-style garden, known since the 1500s as a botanical garden. One of Florence’s most beautiful English-style gardens.

Visits by appointment only.

Made in florence Studio Puck Stampe d’Arte e Cornici Via S.Spirito, 28r Ph. 055 280954 With expert painters as well as designers, Studio Puck together with its partner company Area, offers design and interior design for clients on personal as well as large scale projects.

Antonio Gatto piazza de’ Pitti, 5 ph. 055 2654271 Antonio Gatto designs and creates by hand very original hat collections, in his workshop/ showroom, in the heart of the piazza.

Atelier di restauro Clara Freschi Palazzo Ricasoli - via Maggio, 7 ph. 055 285932 This atelier boasts many years of experience in the restoration field.

From books to prints, to fans 46 santo spirito

and screens, everything is restored to its original beauty.

Atelier Lungarno Rinissima via Santo Spirito, 11 ph. 055 2343938 Morning and evening dresses, wedding and ceremony gowns.

Strictly made in Italy fabrics and craftsmanlike work. Rina Milano, designer and owner of the boutique, pays great attention to accessories.

Mannina via Barbadori, 19r ph. 055 211060 In 1953, Maestro Calogero Mannina started this workshop, where he designs and creates his shoes, handcrafted one-of-the-kind models.

Giuggiù di Angela Caputi via di Santo Spirito, 58r ph. 055 212972 Unique and matchless costume jewelry, having a permanent place in the high fashion world, show business and even in museums. The perfect blend of modernity and tradition, these pieces of jewelry are the timeless expression of femininity and harmony.

Paolo Pagliai borgo San Jacopo, 41r ph. 055 282840 Silversmith and restorer Paolo Pagliai plies his craft in the fourteenth-century tower-house

of the Sapiti, an illustrious noble family, in a workshop decorated with ribbed vaults, engraved capitals and stone walls.

FOOD Tamerò piazza S. Spirito 11r ph. 055 282596 A new Pasta Bar that proposes hand-made pasta, in addition to appetizers, cocktails and great home-made desserts all served in the original environment.

Gelateria la Carraia piazza Nazario Sauro, 25 ph. 055 280695 Delicious ice cream based on the use of top-quality ingredients. An old-style atmosphere that conjures up memories of homemade sweets. In addition to ice cream, mouth-watering cakes and irresistible treats, small and big.

Dolcissima Firenze via Maggio, 61r ph. 055 2396268 Masterpieces of pastrymaking to be enjoyed in the elegant but welcoming and airy tasting room.

Lungarno Bistrot piazza degli Scarlatti, 1r ph. 055 2654541 Located in the splendid set-

ting of Lungarno Guicciardini this elegant restaurant offers a selected menu of both meat and fish specialties. A beautiful a beautiful view of the Arno River and the historic Palazzo Corsini can be enjoyed from his large veranda.

Il Magazzino piazza della passera, 2-3 ph. 055 215969 Located in the lovely Piazza della Passera, far from traffic and chaos. Tuscan dishes at their best, but the big hit is the tripe, so loved by Florentines. Lampredotto ravioli another must.

Santo Bevitore via Santo Spirito, 64r ph. 055 211264 A careful selection of wines and an extensive menu offering traditional, vegetarian and haute-cuisine dishes. Candlelit dining and informal yet attentive service. Next door is Il Santino, a delicatessen for a quick lunch or aperitivo.

Cammillo borgo S. Jacopo, 57r Ph. 055 212427 One of Florence’s best-known trattorias. Delicious gourmet dishes, from white truffle to Porcini mushrooms, accompanied by the finest regional wines. santo spirito 47

SAN FREDIANO

It is the neighborhood where writer Vasco Pratolini set his famous novel Le ragazze di San Frediano and Florence’s most eclectic spirit lives. Truly free souls have their place next to the masterpieces by Masaccio and Masolino in the Brancacci Chapel. The heart of world-celebrated Florentine craftsmanship, this is the neighborhood of up-and-coming artists. A lively nightlife filled with music and fun, which makes a tour of the Oltrarno area a not-to-be-missed experience.

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MuseumS, GallerIES & MonumentS Brancacci Chapel piazza del Carmine, 14 ph. 055 2382195 Housed in the Church of Santa Maria del Carmine, the Brancacci Chapel representsone of the highest expressions of Renaissance painting. The frescoes The Temptation of Adam and Eve, The Expulsion from the Garden of Eden and The Stories of St. Peter resulted from the cooperation between Masaccio and Masolino da Panicale.

Monumental Jewish Cemetery viale Ariosto, 16 ph. 055 2346654 Built in 1777 just outside the an Frediano Gate, the cemetery was in use until 1870.

It houses three monumental chapels.

Bellini Museum Lungarno Soderini, 5 ph. 055 2657940 Home to the Bellini family since 1756, the building once belonged to the Soderinis.

The seventeen-room museum contains works of art

by Beato Angelico, Valdam50 san frediano

brino, Canaletto, Donatello, Della Robbia and other artists.

Bartolomeo Cristofori Academy via di Camaldoli, 7r ph. 055 221646 Founded in 1989 by a group of piano enthusiasts, it is the only Italian music institution entirely devoted to the piano.

La Corte Arte Contemporanea via de’ Coverelli, 27r ph. 055 284435 Located in a classical-style building, the gallery houses exhibitions by artists exploring photography, video art, installations and various contemporary art languages.

Carraia Bridge It is Florence’s second oldest bridge after the Ponte Vecchio, dating back to 1218.

Following the 1333 flood, it was the first bridge to be rebuilt to the design of Giotto.

San Frediano Gate via Pisana The gate is part of the third city wall surrounding Florence. It was built around 1334 and is attributed to Andrea Pisano.

PalaceS, GardenS & ChurchES Church of Santa Maria del Carmine piazza del Carmine, 14 ph. 055 2382195 Founded in 1268, the building was extended in 1328 and again in 1464 to include the chapterhouse and refectory.

The worldfamous frescoes adorning the Brancacci Chapel were painted between 1424 and 1428.

Church of San Frediano in Cestello via di Cestello, 4 ph. 055 215816 One of the finest examples of late baroque Florentine architecture. The transept features the painting Crucifixion and Saints by Jacopo del Sellaio and an altar-piece representing the Virgin Mary in Glory and Saints by Francesco Curradi.

Church of Santa Elisabetta delle Convertite via dei Serragli, 49 ph. 055 284518 This small church housesworks of great historical value.

On the same street at n. 104 stands a shrine containing a Crucifixion attributed to Bernardino Poccetti.

Church and Conservatory of San Francesco di Sales known as the Conventino viale Ludovico Ariosto, 13 ph. 055 224117 The church and conservatory were designed by Antonio Maria Ferri and built in 1700, commissioned by the da Terrazzano family.

In 1785, the church was converted into a conservatory.

Seminario Maggiore Lungarno Soderini, 19 ph. 055 283875 The seminary is adjacent to the church of San Frediano in Cestello and housed in the former Cistercian and Carmelite monastery of Santa Maria Maddalena de’ Pazzi. The library contains the famous Rustici Codex (1448) and other medieval codices.

Capponi House Lungarno Soderini, 15 In the mid-1200s, the building housed a workshop on the ground floor and a private residence on the first floor. After going through several ownership changes, in 1769 it was purchased by Marquis Vincenzo Maria Capponi.

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Santa Rosa Tower Lungarno Soderini An 1856 news-stand contains a fresco representing the Pietà with Saints John the Evangelist and Mary Magdalene attributed to Ridolfo del Ghirlandaio.

Made in florence Antico Setificio Fiorentino via Lorenzo Bartolini, 4 ph. 055 213861 The fabrics are handmade by using eighteenth-century looms and according to patterns kept in the Historical Archives: damask, brocatelle and floss silk for upholstery.

Claudio Arezio via del Leone, 27r ph. 055 280186 His instruments are played in the world’s most prestigious orchestras. In his workshop, Claudio builds violins, violas and cellos, according to the traditional techniques of stringed instrument making.

F.lli Ugolini via del Drago D’Oro, 25r ph. 055 215343 Since the late 1800s, this family has been manufacturing lighting and furnishing bronze objects, still made by hand with traditional methods.

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Idrus Gioielli Lungarno Guicciardini, 19r ph. 055 268148 A studio-boutique created by innovative designer Alessandro Barellini, where traditional and contemporary design blend with the highest craftsmanship.

Laboratorio di Moleria Locchi via Burchiello, 10 ph. 055 2298371 In an old palazzo, Paola and Giovanna restore, cut and engrave objects of all periods and styles, besides manufacturing a sophisticated line of crystal objects.

Il Paralume borgo San Frediano, 47 ph. 055 2396760 Piero and Luana make lamps, lampshades and other furnishing accessories in any material, from wood to ceramic to precious fabrics.

Flora Lastraioli Luxury Lingerie via Domenico Burchiello, 105 ph. 055 223651 The history starts with Amelia, flora’s great-grandmother who was the official embroiderer at the court of Leopoldo ii, grand duke of Tuscany. A whole family involved in the

business for maintaining high quality and craftsmanship.

Royal people, celebrities and several women worldwide had been dressed for almost 150 years by Flora Lastraioli.

Food Cestello piazza del Cestello, 8 ph. 055 2645364 Easy-chic ambience, mostly fish-based dishes. The fish is always freshly caught and you can walk up to the seafood counter and pick it out yourself.

Enoteca Le Barrique via del Leone, 40r ph. 055 224192 Small, intimate and very special. Outdoor dining in summertime, in the restaurant’s back garden, a very pleasing surprise.

Fuor d’acqua via Pisana, 37 ph. 055 222299 Just a few steps from the San Frediano Gate, this restaurant offers the true taste of sea right in the heart of Florence’s city center.

Housed in an old carriage depot, the restaurant serves only the very best freshlycaught fish and seafood.

Io Osteria Personale borgo San Frediano, 167r ph. 055 9331341 Wooden ceilings and brick walls in what was once a delicatessen in the heart of the San Frediano district.

Now it is a modern osteria using only the best locally sourced and seasonal ingredients.

Trattoria del Carmine piazza del Carmine, 18 ph. 055 218601 Excellently located trattoria with a very casual atmosphere and small tables set outside in summertime. The must-try is chicken salad with homemade mayonnaise.

Alla Vecchia Bettola viale Ludovico Ariosto, 32 ph. 055 224158 Just off Piazza Tasso, this typical Florentine osteria serves old-style local dishes made with top-quality ingredients. Tradition is the norm here.

Vico del Carmine via Pisana, 40r ph. 055 2336862 The place for genuine Neapolitan pizza lovers. Always crowded, fun and lively atmosphere. san frediano 53

Florence jogging track

A special jogging route that reveals unexpected views of the city’s natural and artistic treasures.

The starting point is J.K. Place in Piazza Santa Maria Novella (1) in the direction of Piazza Carlo Goldoni, through Via dei Fossi (300 m). From the piazza, by taking a turn to the right, you will be able to see the Arno river banks across the Carraia Bridge (2). Now you are in the Oltrarno area. Take Via dei Serragli (1,5 km), up to Porta Romana (3), to Viale Niccolò Machiavelli, where the beautiful Boboli Gardens are, and proceed along Viale Galileo (4) and the road leading to Piazzale Michelangelo (5) (5,3 km), which offers a panoramic view of Florence. On your way back from Piazzale Michelangelo, take Viale Galileo down to Viale Giuseppe Poggi (450 m) and back to the city center, through lovely winding roads, allowing for a view of Piazza Poggi (6) and the San Niccolò Tower, Via San Miniato (7), Via San Niccolò (8) (1,8 km) and then turn to the right into Via dell’Olmo (9). Run along Lungarno Serristori (10) (2,1 km) and Lungarno degli Acciaioli (11) (3 km), cross Ponte Vecchio (12), then take Lungarno degli Acciaioli (13) a turn to the right into the elegant Via de’ Tornabuoni, through Piazza Santa Trinita (14). Take a turn to the left into Via della Spada (15) (3,3 km) and then Via del Sole and you are back to J.K. Place Firenze in Piazza Santa Maria Novella (1) (3,5 km).

Estimated time: about 1 hour and 30 minutes Total kilometers: 8,8

Important phone numbers

General Emergency 112, Police 113, Fire Brigade 115, Ambulance 118, Taxi 4390

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MOVIE THEATRES & THEATRE HOUSES

Most of the old downtown movie theatres have gone out of business and have been replaced with multiplexes. As far as theatre houses are concerned, Florence is in no way inferior to major European cities. They offer opera, classical and rock music performances and contemporary shows. Many are the world-famous artists who perform in Florence over the season.

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Odeon Firenze via dei Sassetti, 1 ph. 055 295051 The city’s movie theatre par excellence. Since the twenties to the present day, as the headquarters of Sistema Toscana Cinema. Films shown in the original (with English subtitles) and premieres attended by cast and film directors. From mid-October to mid-December, it hosts the 50 giorni di cinema internazionale a Firenze, Schermo dell’Arte Festival, a not-to-bemissed event.

Verdi Theatre via Ghibellina, 101 ph. 055 213496 The only nineteenth-century theatre in Florence that survived through the changes of 150 years of history, and now offers a rich program, from opera music to contemporary music.

Comunale Theatre corso Italia, 16 ph. 055 27791 One of the city’s oldest (mid-1800s) and most prestigious theatres. Since 1986, the chief conductor of the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino orchestra has been Zubin Mehta who, in 2006, became honorary conductor for life.

New Opera House viale Fratelli Rosselli, 1 ph. 055 27791 Inaugurated in December 2011 with a concert conducted

by Maestro Mehta, the theatre has a seating capacity of 1.800 and excellent acoustics. It is going to be the heart of Florence’s new music center.

Pergola Theatre via della Pergola, 18 ph. 055 22641 It was inaugurated 350 years ago with the comic opera Il podestà di Colognole by Giovanni Andrea Moneglia, the first of a long series of performances. Today, it is a very lively cultural institution.

Puccini Theatre via delle Cascine, 41 ph. 055 362067 An outlet for satire and genre contamination. It is the theatre that stages shows and plays by up-and-coming and controversial Italian performers.

Cinema Spazio Uno via del Sole, 10 ph. 055 284642 The only downtown art film theatre, just steps from Santa Maria Novella. An intellectual and alternative atmosphere, an austere setting but a good audio-video system. It looks like a private movie screening room. itinerary 57

Nightlife

Many Florentines complain about the city’s dull nightlife and we often have trouble providing our guests with recommendations on where to go after dinner. However, here is a choice of bars and nightclubs for all ages and tastes.

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Collebereto piazza Strozzi, 5r ph. 055 283156 A not-to-be-missed spot for Florentine-style aperitivo lovers.

From 7 pm to 9.30 pm, it offers delicious Italian and ethnic cuisine appetizers and skillfully made cocktails.

A private lounge on the first floor for exclusive parties and events.

Move On piazza S. Giovanni, 1r ph. 055 219251 This new concept store offers a blend of delicious food, excellent beer and good music, with one of the world’s most beautiful and monumental squares as the backdrop.

Blume Club Lungarno Serristori, 3r ph. 055 2479377 From figurative arts to music performances, the Blume Club is the go-to place for unforgettable DJ-sets.

International independent music and much more.

The perfect address to spend a cool, underground-style Florentine night.

Rivalta Cafe’ Lungarno Corsini, 14r Ph. 055 289810 A must-stop for those who wish to enjoy happy hour along the Arno river, but also for a relaxing lunch break.

Crowded with both locals and tourists, it is the perfect place to elegantly start the night off with a drink.

Yab Disco Club via dei Sassetti, 5r ph. 055 215160 It is the city’s most popular downtown club. Monday is the hip-hop and r’n’b night, while Fridays are for dancing the night off.

Tenax via Pratese, 46 ph. 055 308160 A piece of local history. This thirty-year-old disco, located just outside of town, is a true institution in Florence. The world’s best known DJs consider it to be a true icon of the eighties.

Volume piazza Santo Spirito, 5r ph. 055 2381460 Filled with the boho-chic atmosphere of the Santo Spirito area, this bar, open from early in the morning to deep into the night, is housed in an old craft shop and bursts with energy and creativity. itinerary 59

street Markets

Head out early in the morning and enjoy the city waking up. A good time for wandering around downtown street markets: have a chat with the vendors, they won’t miss the chance to show off their fresh seasonal produce and suggest a few traditional Florentine recipes.

Or you may find a great bargain on an antique piece.

Here is the top-seven list.

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San Lorenzo Market all around the Church of San Lorenzo and Central Market You will find clothing, leather goods, gifts, souvenirs and food. It’s the most important and visited market of the city.

Sant’Ambrogio Market piazza Ghiberti, from Monday to Saturday (only in the morning) A wholesale fruit and vegetable market until 1955, this indoor and outdoor market now offers fresh fruit and vegetables as well as plants, flowers and housewares. Stop for lunch at Rocco’s, the small good indoor restaurant.

Santo Spirito Market piazza Santo Spirito, from Monday to Saturday (only in the morning) Fruit and vegetables, but also vintage clothing and accessories. On the third Sunday of the month (except August), there are also stalls selling organic and biodynamic produce and handicrafts.

Cascine Park Market viale Lincoln, on Tuesday mornings A one-kilometer long market along the Arno river, in the city’s biggest park. Clothing, accessories, leather goods, antiques, flowers and housewares.

New Market or Loggia del Porcellino, at the corner of via Calimala and via Porta Rossa, every day from 10 am to 8 pm Bags, leather goods and souvenirs. The market’s most popular feature, the bronze piglet after which the loggia is named, actually is a replica of a wild boar sculpture kept at the Uffizi Gallery, which was placed in the square in 1640.

Flower Market Open Gallery of via Pellicceria, on Thursdays from 10 am to 7 pm Every Thursday the open gallery is filled with plants and flowers of all colors and varieties. About thirty lovely stalls.

A must-stop for Florentines living in the area.

Flea Market piazza dei Ciompi, every day from 9 am to 7.30 pm Antique furniture and objects, paintings, jewelry, old coins, collector’s items and antiques. You may find some very good bargains. We suggest going on the last Sunday of the month, when the stalls extend into the surrounding streets. itinerary 61

Outside florence

It is a well-known fact that Tuscany offers a variety of interesting destinations and natural and artistic treasures to choose from. What is, perhaps, less known is that they are all within a few hours’ drive from Florence.

On a lovely spring day, grab your camera and follow us.

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Bolgheri The tour of this Tuscan gem should be crowned with a lunch or mid-afternoon snack.

Continue your tour along Via Bolgherese and make a stop for a visit to the wineries.

Among the best-known ones are Tenuta San Guido, Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Tenuta Guado al Tasso, Tenuta Argentiera.

Carmignano This lovely area in the hills of Prato is worth seeing, even if only for a quick visit to the Church of San Michele housing the magnificent Visitation

by Pontormo. Have a look at the Medicean Villa and stop for dinner in Artimino, at the Delfina restaurant: a must-try.

Chianti From Greve’s main square, stop at the Cantine di Greve in Chianti. Then proceed in the direction of Panzano: the Parish Church of San Leolino is worth a visit. For lunch or dinner, we suggest Dario Cecchini’s Butcher’s, a true institution, or, on your way back to Florence, Osteria di Passignano, in Tavarnelle Val di Pesa.

Lucca Take a walk and stop for a slice of buccellato cake at Taddeucci’s, one of the city’s best known pastry shops. Just

steps from Piazza Mercato is the Lucca Center of Contemporary Art offering an interesting exhibition program.

Dinner at All’Olivo.

Pietrasanta Worldwide-renowned for its marble workshops and foundries, this small town has fast become the heart of the Versilia area’s cultural scene. The town is filled with art galleries and works by famous artists, such as Botero and Igor Mitoraj, especially in spring and summer.

San Gimignano A timeless landscape and a town brimming with history.

Take some time for a visit to one of the exhibitions held at Galleria Continua. For dinner, indulge in the charm and haute cuisine of La Collegiata ( located in località Strada 27).

Siena Reach the top of the unfinished Duomo. Go shopping at Cortecci for well-known fashion brands or at Mag and Dolci Trame for unconventional fashion names. Dinner at Osteria Le Logge or Enoteca I Terzi or, just outside the city walls, Il Canto, the Certosa di Maggiano’s restaurant. itinerary 63