Guida Mandarin Oriental Milan 2017

mandarin o r i e n ta l milan city guidebook 2017

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MANDARIN O R I E N TA L MILAN CITY GUIDEBOOK 2017

Mandarin Oriental Milan Via Andegari, 9 - Milan Ph. +39 02 87318888 mandarinoriental.com

FASHION DISTRICT

DUOMO

BRERA | CORSO COMO | ISOLA

PORTA VENEZIA | REPUBBLICA

SEMPIONE | CASTELLO | MAGENTA

PORTA TICINESE | NAVIGLI | TORTONA

FROM THE CENTRE TO PORTA ROMANA

PLACES

CONTENTS

Luca Finardi 10

Antonio Citterio, Patricia Viel 12

Antonio Guida 14

DISTRICTS

1 FASHION DISTRICT

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2 DUOMO

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3 BRERA | CORSO COMO | ISOLA

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4 PORTA VENEZIA | REPUBBLICA

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5 SEMPIONE | CASTELLO | MAGENTA

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6 TORTONA | NAVIGLI | PORTA TICINESE

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7 FROM THE CENTRE TO PORTA ROMANA

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CONTENTS

PLACES ART AND CULTURE

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SHOPPING 146 FOOD 178 APERITIF 200 NIGHTLIFE 204 OUTSIDE MILAN

MANDARIN ORIENTAL MILAN

208 214

LEGEND

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INDEX

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mandarin o r i e n ta l milan city guidebook 2017

Mandarin Oriental Milan Via Andegari, 9 - Milan Ph. +39 02 87318888 mandarinoriental.com

Fashion District

Duomo

Brera | corso como | isola

porta venezia | repubblica

sempione | castello | magenta

porta ticinese | navigLi | tortona

From the Centre to Porta Romana

places

contents

Luca Finardi 10

Antonio Citterio, Patricia Viel 12

Antonio Guida 14

districts

1 Fashion District

24

2 DuoMO

40

3 Brera | corso como | isola

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4 porta venezia | repubblica

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5 sempione | castello | magenta

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6 Tortona | Navigli | Porta Ticinese

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7 From the Centre to Porta Romana

120

contents

places art and culture

136

shopping 146 food 178 aperitiF 200 nightlife 204 outside milan

Mandarin Oriental Milan

208 214

legend

228

index

229

Luca Finardi

welcome to milan Milan is a city of myriad souls, perfect for shopping, business, fine dining, culture and top events. Secret but open to the world, charming, international, curious and multifaceted, Milan is always in movement and sparks energy like any other major European city. While restoring to the limelight iconic monuments such as Teatro alla Scala and Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan developed an intense network of new excellences related to culture, fashion, design, food and wine, as well as to innovation, biotechnology, universities and sport. Strong signs of public and private investment are marked by the new Fondazione Prada, Fondazione Feltrinelli (about to be opened), the design labs of the Polytechnic that welcome students from all over the world, the reurbanized Porta Nuova neighbourhood, the redeveloped Darsena area, the ex-Ansaldo space in the Ticinese quarter, historic places such as Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, and Palazzo dell’Arengario, now Museo del Novecento. Within this widespread cultural web the city comes alive year round with countless events: the MiTo music festival, the Salone del Mobile furniture fair with Design Week, four fashion weeks every year, BookCity, Piano City, various film festivals, the Piccolo Teatro season, and top sports and music events at Stadio Meazza. Visitors who come back to Milan after a few years remain wowed and pleasantly surprised. The Mandarin Oriental Milan, housed in one of the most beautiful buildings in the city centre, expertly refurbished by Antonio Citterio and Patricia Viel, is an active protagonist in this city’s great revival.

Luca Finardi, General Manager Mandarin Oriental Hotel Milan 11

Antonio Citterio and Patricia Viel (ph. Settimio Benedusi)

In the City In recent years the sun has set on the pursuit of a recognizable and standardized image by luxury hotel brands. Now architects, with their personal stylistic imprint, stimulate plans with a clear image, an expression of the city and time in which the designer resides, making a stay in that hotel, as opposed to another, truly original and unforgettable. The Mandarin Oriental Milan project involved the redevelopment of four adjacent historic buildings along a decidedly Milanese street: the buildings, very different in their styles and original use, reveal a rare cross-section of Ancient Milan. While the four facades still appear markedly distinctive on the exterior, a link runs through the inner spaces and courtyards, sparking a set of environments in different styles, yet in harmony with one another. The grey stone floor in the ground floor lobby seeks continuity with the entrance courtyard of Via Andegari, thus creating a place of passage, a memory of the carriage atrium of the past. The Mandarin Bar & Bistrot, finished entirely in white and black marble mosaic, is the project’s most iconic space, as well as the hotel’s beating heart. The environment opens out to the city, welcoming locals and international travellers in a place made for sociality. The rooms, instead, are furnished in a neutral style, in calming shades of beige, black and white; they represent the other side of Milanese style, the city’s quiet and private side in clear contrast with the exuberance of the public space on the ground floor.

We have sought to instil all of these spaces with a welcoming and very Milanese ambience. We would like guests to start breathing the city’s atmosphere as soon as they arrive at the hotel.

Antonio Citterio and Patricia Viel architects, urban planners, designers 13

Antonio Guida

My cuisine I arrived in Milan two years ago, at the end of the winter. I left the sea behind, but this city won me over straightaway: stimulating, full of opportunities and charm, Milan opened its arms to me. By nature I’m not the sort of person who likes to stay in any one place: I started travelling at a young age, beginning at Rafelino Bello, doyen of pastry making in Salento, moving to hospitality at the Savoy in Zurich, a lesson in Swiss precision and organization. Then a series of life-changing experiences with Pierre Gagnaire, in Paris’ rue Balzac. Genial, dynamic cuisine, where the dishes changed during service. Pierre taught me to improvise, without fear of fantasy. Leaving France, I spent 12 years in Tuscany in one of the best resorts in the world: Il Pellicano at Porto Ercole. It’s where I refined my techniques and concept of cuisine before arriving at the Mandarin Oriental Milan as Executive Chef of the hotel and Seta restaurant in particular, which gained a Michelin star just a few months after opening. I was at Seta before its birth, designing the kitchens, training my team one by one. I didn’t come here by myself: my sous-chef Federico Dell’Omarino and pastry chef Nicola Di Lena came with me, the very best in their respective roles. Together we lead a team of 35, who take care of all of the hotel’s catering needs, from breakfast to after-dinner. In my cuisine respect for ingredients is manifest, followed by harmonious flavours, presentation and a few parentheses that surprise and delight. We called the restaurant Seta for many reasons: to remember Marco Polo, the first to create a bond between East and West, the origins of our brand, recalling the soft and the precious, like in my dishes, and lastly to emphasize the exotic surprises that are part of my cuisine.

Antonio Guida, Michelin-starred Chef of Ristorante Seta, Mandarin Oriental Hotel Milan 15

best attractions in Milan i The Duomo and Museum Lombard Gothic style in all its glory. The museum houses the Cathedral’s treasures.

ii The Fashion District Via Monte Napoleone is the height of luxury shopping, while Fashion Week is a must for the fashion addicted.

iii Santa Maria delle Grazie Home to Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper, unparalleled masterpiece of the Renaissance genius.

vii Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Opened in 1867, this architectural accomplishment in Neo-Renaissance style iron stands 47 metres tall.

v Brera and its Pinacoteca An exuberant and bohemian neighbourhood, whose cultural centre is the picture gallery.

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best attractions in Milan vi The other museums Don’t miss: Museo del Novecento, Palazzo Reale, Fondazione Prada, Triennale and the Science Museum.

vii Navigli and Tortona Milan at its most authentic, enjoy the aperitivo hour near the trendy design feel of Zona Tortona.

viii Castello Sforzesco A symbol of Renaissance Milan, with its striking tower, it is one of the most extraordinary castles in Italy.

ix Parco Sempione The city’s most Parisian quarter, between the Arco della Pace and the vast park, loved by locals.

x New Milan The changing city: the architecture and skyscrapers of Porta Nuova, Isola, Garibaldi, Repubblica and Varesine.

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fashion district

Duomo

Brera | corso como | isola

porta venezia | repubblica

sempione | castello | magenta

porta ticinese | navigLi | tortona

From the Centre to Porta Romana

Fashion District

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100 meters

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I MUSEO POLDI PEZZOLI A walk amongst the canvases

by Renaissance masters (Bellini, Mantegna, Botticelli) as well as 18th century views of Venice

by Francesco Guardi.

At Via Manzoni, 12 II SAN BABILA This beautiful 13th century basilica appears like a vision among the modern buildings that surround it. A pipe organ inspired by the German Baroque style is often played at concerts.

In Piazza San Babila III VIA MONTE NAPOLEONE The site of female convents until the 18th century, then a Monte di Pietà pawnbroker, after which the street was named. Now it is the leading luxury street with 80-something fashion boutiques.

IV SOLAR DISC The giant sculpture resembling a sun from Aztec culture is a double rotating circle, standing 4.5 metres high, made from gilded bronze by Italian artist Arnaldo Pomodoro in 1990.

In Piazza Meda

Via Monte Napoleone 28

fashion district

The Olympus of Fashion mood of fashion, an added bonus while in pursuit of their all-time favourite labels. The birth of the Quadrilatero as a fashion district dates to the Fifties, when the sublimely elegant Biki, the Milanese lady whose dressmaking prowess transformed Maria Callas into a style icon, opened her atelier in Via Sant’Andrea, sparking the interest of the international jetset. This Olympus of Italian fashion, of which Milan is the undisputed capital, is studded with showrooms and boutiques in this part of the city. Even the smallest of details are tended to, such as the non-slip grates for the most stylish of heels.

Glimpses between the loveliest of aristocratic buildings are met with the soothing sight of yearround lush green courtyards.

The Fashion District is one of the most exclusive areas of Milan, a chic neighbourhood that is home to historic tailor’s shops, Italian and international fashion houses with their prêt-à-porter collections and ateliers increasingly focused on made to measure services.

Known as the “quadrilatero della moda”, meaning fashion square, the name comes from the four streets Via Manzoni, Via Monte Napoleone, Via della Spiga and Corso Venezia, which are connected to one another by a mundane crisscrossing of smaller streets.

Via Monte Napoleone reigns supreme, hailed as one of the most famous shopping streets in the world. Lovers of beautiful things flock here to bask in the ambience and 29

fashion district

Milano Fashion Week Milan is the fashion capital of Italy.

The city is home to the headquarters of leading fashion houses, top fashion magazines, the best photographers and directors, the most sophisticated boutiques and concept stores, as well as the world’s most influential fashion design institutes.

Milan boasts the highest number of people employed in the Italian fashion industry, which took root in the Lombard city in the Sixties and Seventies.

A cultured people in tune with sensibility, controllers of taste, lovers of style, with a traditional upbringing yet open to innovation, and producers too, with that up-tempo quickstep that essentially Italians alone possess.

Milan is home to the National Chamber of Italian Fashion (Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana), the organization that governs, coordinates and promotes the development of Italian fashion.

The undisputed capital of men’s fashion, Milan has outclassed Paris, London and New York.

The Chamber organizes four Fashion Weeks every year, showcasing prêt-à-porter previews: Milano Moda Donna takes place in February and September; Milano Moda Uomo in January and June.

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Il Duomo di Milano, le sue guglie sono 135 e aaaaaaaa danno vita a unaarchitettura PradaalF/W 2016 unica mondo 31

fashion district

Via Borgospesso corner of Via Monte Napoleone 32

fashion district

Via Manzoni 33

Via Monte Napoleone, Piazza Meda

fashion district

Museo Poldi Pezzoli 35

PALAZZO MORANDO

The elegant an noble Palazzo Morando, following impressive restoration that ended in 2010, is now the Museo del Costume, della Moda e dell’Immagine, one of Milan’s most fascinating city museums. It houses important collections of fabrics, clothing and accessories in 20-something rooms, from eighteenth century working-class clothes to more recent haute couture creations.

This museum is a place where fashion is showcased in all of its facets, with displays that promote a collection of almost sixthousand items. On the first floor, you’ll find the picture gallery (pinacoteca) and a striking exhibition shedding light on the Milanese aristocracy’s eighteenth century taste in furniture and porcelain; a display recently restored to its original layout and pieces, dislocated over time in several storage spaces not in the building, now retrieved and repositioned at last in their original places.

Via Sant’Andrea, 6 costumemodaimmagine.mi.it

fashion district

Palazzo Bagatti Valsecchi 37

fashion district

highlights Prada group - its historic shop has been in via Santa Maria alla Porta since 1824. With a pastel décor and a tearoom for sweet and savoury breakfasts, it serves the finest mignon cakes in Milan, as well as sugar-dusted sweets, bonbons and pralines.

Specialities include Aurora cake, Truffet cake and profiteroles. In September 2016 a third space will open in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Cova Via Monte Napoleone, 8 Ph. +39 02 76005599 Pasticceria Marchesi Via Monte Napoleone, 9 Ph. + 39 02 76008238

THE STREET PARLOUR: VIA DELLA SPIGA Connecting Corso Venezia to Via Manzoni, Via della Spiga is regarded as the street parlour of Milanese fashion. Thanks to the fact that it is almost entirely pedestrianized, only 520 metres long and vaunts distinctive paving stones, the most famous fashion labels have opened stores here. More than seventy boutiques line the attractive street, including Tiffany & Co. jewellery, design for collectors at the Nilufar gallery and handmade gloves by Sermoneta.

Sweet and chic Two iconic addresses in Milanese pastry making in the Fashion District. Cova, established in 1817, is one of the city’s oldest and most refined coffee shops.

It’s where Giuseppe Verdi personally ordered his very own panettone. For almost 200 years it was owned by the same family, and nothing has changed since it was taken over by the Louis Vuitton holding. Pasticceria Marchesi, opposite, opened following its acquisition by the

For gentlemen only An old-style shaving experience begins at Collezione Lorenzi.

Founded by Giovanni Lorenzi in the Thirties, this privately owned museum, known only to the most exacting shaving connoisseurs, is home to a collection of more than 4.000 shaving instruments: from archaeological finds to the latest techniques (open on appointment only). A few blocks away, 38

fashion district

Giovanni Bellini (1470). Breathe in the past in the courtyard, one of the loveliest in Milan, paved in black and white cobblestones mosaic - accessible to the public from Via Gesù and Via Santo Spirito - sit down at one of the tables of the delicatessen and bistrot Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone.

Via Gesù, 5 museobagattivalsecchi.org

shaving lovers can enjoy a traditional Italian treatment at the barber’s corner in the Acqua di Parma boutique, while in the courtyard of the men’s Dolce & Gabbana store, enter through the separate entrance for a stylish and classic Sicilian barber’s experience.

Collezione Lorenzi Via Monte Napoleone, 9 Ph. +39 02 76022848 La Barberia di Acqua di Parma Via Gesù, 1 Ph. +39 02 76023307 Barbiere Dolce & Gabbana Corso Venezia, 15 Ph. +39 02 76028485

Armani style The world of Armani can be experienced in this sixthousand square meters building, which was inaugurated in 2000. Here you will find Emporio Armani clothing collections, Armani Libri fashion and design books, glamorous flowers arrangements by Armani Fiori, Armani Dolci, the Armani Caffè, a top location for a quick lunch and Nobu, one of Milan’s best Japanese restaurants. Nightlife lovers flock to Armani Privé, popular with an international crowd and young locals.

Via Manzoni, 31

A taste of the courtyard A singular showcase of the nineteenth century taste for collecting, Museo Bagatti Valsecchi is an elegant house museum with a Neo-Renaissance ambience, with eclectic objects and priceless collections: tapestries, armoury, ceramics, furniture, paintings, ivory and glass items, scientific instruments and globes, as well as the famous Santa Giustina panel by 39

duomo

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100 meters

I PALAZZO REALE A symbol of Milan, its exhibitions calendar is forthcoming.

At Piazza Duomo, 12 II MUSEO DEL NOVECENTO Four hundred works by the most famous artists of the 20th century.

At Via Marconi, 1 III PINACOTECA AMBROSIANA Established in 1618 after Cardinal Borromeo’s bequeathal of paintings, statues and drawings.

Among the awe-inspiring works are Leonardo’s Portrait of a Musician and Caravaggio’s Basket of Fruit.

At Piazza Pio XI, 2 IV CASA MANZONI Reopened after a restoration, Alessandro Manzoni’s home is where the writer composed I Promessi Sposi, a masterpiece of Italian literature.

At Via del Morone, 1 V SANTA MARIA PRESSO SAN SATIRO Built in two phases, the church of Santa Maria dates to 1.400.

Bramante was responsible for the design, creating a trompe l’oeil choir.

At Via Torino, 17/19

Piazza dei Mercanti 44

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GOTHIC TREASURES AND MUSEUMS Palazzo Reale, Museo del Novecento, Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, which houses the world’s largest collection of Leonardo’s drawings, the Palazzo della Ragione, which hosts photography exhibitions, the Museo del Teatro alla Scala and the Gallerie d’Italia.

Only the majestic Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, inaugurated in 1867, can compete with the cathedral’s beauty.

The cathedral square hosts classical and pop music concerts alternated with other events, enthusiastically attended by local residents who re-energize the space, which has been blending the sacred and profane for more than six hundred years.

Milan’s centre has a particular kind of charm. Severe and imposing at first glance, it unfolds in an unexpected way, with climbing vine-lined courtyards and fanciful Art Nouveau architecture.

The heart of the neighbourhood is Europe’s most extraordinary cathedral. With its monumental beauty, carved in marble, it has become the city symbol. Built over five centuries, the Duomo (the Milan’s cathedral) is the third largest Catholic church in the world in terms of surface area, after St. Peter’s in Rome and the cathedral of Seville.

The city’s most important museums are right next to it: the Museo del Duomo, 45

DUOMO

The duomo Work on the Duomo, the Milan’s cathedral, began in 1386 and was completed over five centuries. Gian Galeazzo Visconti, Duke of Milan, made an executive decision to use Candoglia marble instead of bricks, sparking a true revolution and birthing an extremely original style.

The spires The cathedral’s 135 spires are elaborately ornamented, dense in statues of all sizes (there are more than 1.800 of them). Most of the spires are 17 metres high.

The sculptures In the cathedral there are around 3.400 statues and more than 700 figures included in the marble reliefs.

The statuary has its own claim to fame: for six centuries, the cathedral site continuously produced statues in line with the cultural climate of every significant moment in history.

The Madonnina Symbol of the city and protectress of the Milanese people, the Madonnina is made of embossed and gilded copper sheets, supported by a frame now made of stainless steel.

It was erected on the cathedral’s main spire in 1774.

Stained glass windows The original fourteenth century coloured windows were replaced with stained glass ones in 1463. An interesting tidbit: in 1939, all of the windows were removed and placed in a basement to protect them from bombings. It was only after World War II that work on the facade’s stained glass windows proceeded.

An activity Stroll along the roof: on the north side, a ladder and a lift lead upwards. The panoramic view extends over the whole city, reaching as far as the Alps.

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The Cathedral’s spires 47

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Palazzo Giureconsulti, Piazza del Duomo 48

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Faรงade of the Duomo 49

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Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Designed by Giuseppe Mengoni, this shopping centre’s foundation stone was laid in 1865 by Vittorio Emanuele II, hence its name.

Work on the building did not end until 1876, however.

From its inception, the Galleria was a meeting point for the Milanese bourgeois, earning it the nickname Milan’s living room.

It has a cross plan with an octagonal iron and glass roof, 47 metres high. The luxurious Neo-Renaissance architecture and the decorations inside are dizzying, transporting the imagination to another era.

The visitor’s gaze is drawn toward the floor mosaics, which represent the coats of arms of Rome, Florence, Turin and Milan; then the eye seeks out the shop displays and halls, eventually focusing on the iron and glass windows of the roof.

Alongside some of the city’s historic cafes, inside the gallery you’ll find boutiques of the world’s great maisons, including Prada, which opened its first glove and travel equipment shop here in 1913, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Armani and Versace. The Rizzoli bookshop is a mandatory stop: this literary corner has attracted the attention of the international press.

The gallery’s recent restoration - completed for Expo 2015 - has loaned it the elegant worldliness of a lost time.

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Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 51

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Teatro alla Scala A “temple of opera”, described by Stendhal as one of the world’s stateliest theatres, and established by Maria Theresa of Austria, this theatre made its name in Milan’s history through Giuseppe Verdi, Arturo Toscanini and Maria Callas, who was discovered here in 1955. Renowned for its acoustics, the theatre has numerous architectural quirks implemented by Piermarini, who designed it. Beyond the shape of the auditorium, among these interesting features is a wooden vault, used as a means of natural resonance, and the reduced size of the stage columns. The theatre’s selection of operas, symphonies and ballets continues to be among the best internationally for its high-calibre artists. The La Scala season officially opens each year with an opera on December 7, the feast day of St. Ambrose, patron saint of the city. The inaugural evening is the high-society event of the year, with strict codes of elegance put in place for the Gala.

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Museo del Novecento 53

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Corso Italia 54

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L.O.V.E. the marble sculpture

by Maurizio Cattelan 55

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highlights rated by Antonia Giacenti of the eponymous boutique, you’ll find carefully selected fragrances, Ladurée macaroons, Tiffany jewellery and one of the city’s finest food halls. The Bistrot Eat’s makes for an excellent break from shopping.

La Rinascente Piazza Duomo Ph. + 39 02 88521 Excelsior Milano Galleria del Corso, 4 Ph. + 39 02 76307301

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II The Corso, a strip connecting Piazza Duomo and Piazza San Babila, is a pedestrian thoroughfare dotted with fashion and accessory boutiques. Shopping here is across the board and it is more accessible than what is offered on Via Monte Napoleone.

The arcades were redesigned at the dawn of Italian unification: they form an eye-catching lineup, offering protection whatever the weather.

L.O.V.E. IN THE FINANCIAL DISTRICT The most recent addition to Piazza Affari is L.O.V.E., a 2010 work by Maurizio Cattelan, whose acronym stands for Libertà (freedom), Odio (hate), Vendetta (revenge) and Eternità (eternity). The marble sculpture shows a hand making a Fascist salute, each of the fingers made to look as if they were eroded by time - except for the middle finger. The marble sculpture leaves no room for doubt: the sculpture is an act of irreverence toward both the idea of Fascism and the

DEPARTMENT STORES The two best department stores, where you’ll find everything your heart desires, are La Rinascente and Excelsior Milano.

At La Rinascente you’ll find major fashion labels a seemingly boundless beauty department, a design supermarket on the ground floor and a gourmet paradise on the top floor.

More recently established is the Excelsior Milano, formerly a cinema which architects Jean Nouvel and Vincenzo de Cotiis converted into a store. Along with the clothing choices, cu56

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ing straight at the spires of the cathedral.

Duomo terrace Piazza Duomo La Terrazza - La Rinascente Via Santa Radegonda, 3 Ph. + 39 02 88521 Giacomo Arengario Via Marconi, 1 Ph. + 39 02 72093814 Terrazza Martini Piazza Diaz, 7 Ph. +39 02 8690905 Spazio Milano Piazza Duomo, entrance Motta Caffè Ph. + 39 02 878400

world of finance, embodied by Palazzo Mezzanotte, headquarters of Milan’s stock exchange since 1932.

PIAZZA DUOMO FROM ON HIGH This itinerary takes you high above the ground, affording views of the city from above.

To reach the Duomo’s terrace, you climb 165 steps up a spiral staircase, or pay to take the elevator. Upon arrival, you can walk freely around the entire cathedral roof. The Museo del Novecento provides an art deco break: on the third floor in the Giacomo Arengario restaurant, eat in the outdoor seating area, under the loggia overlooking Piazza del Duomo. World-class cinema has connections to the Martini Terrace. Sip on a cocktail with the city at your feet. Spazio Milano, on the top floor of the Mercato del Duomo. Chef Niko Romito’s Cooking School amazes guests with its excellence. Lastly, the terrace at La Rinascente: enjoy anything from a panino to traditional Milanese cuisine, look-

GALLERIE D’ITALIA Just in front of Teatro alla Scala, the Palazzo Brentani and Palazzo Anguissola Antona make up part of the museum, which houses nineteenth century artworks from Canova to Boccioni. The third building, Palazzo Beltrami, is home to twentieth century art and hosts themed exhibitions. The restructuring by architect Michele De Lucchi, completed in 2012, makes a stop here worthwhile.

Piazza della Scala, 6 Ph +39 800167619 57

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I SAN SIMPLICIANO A basilica founded by Bishop Ambrose, the façade with its doorway remains from the Romanesque period. Beautiful to visit the two cloisters.

At Piazza San Simpliciano, 7 II PICCOLO TEATRO Milan’s first permanent theatre, it now has three locations. Two are in Brera: Piccolo Teatro Strehler (main venue) in Largo Greppi, 1 and Piccolo Teatro Studio Melato (drama school and workshop) in Via Rivoli, 6. Near to the Castello is the historic location, Piccolo Teatro Grassi, named after Paolo Grassi, founder of Piccolo Teatro with director Giorgio Strehler in 1947.

At Via Rovello, 2 III MUSEO DEL RISORGIMENTO The Museum, in Palazzo Moriggia, houses the sceptre, coat and crown worn by Napoleon at his coronation as King of Italy.

At Via Borgonuovo, 23 IV PIAZZA GAE AULENTI Opened in 2012 and named after the prolific Italian architect, the piazza has a fountain at its centre and is lined with shops, bars and restaurants.

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THAT (SLIGHTLY) SNOBBY CHARM that hails from afar, a mixture of culture, elegance and a touch of eccentric creativity. North of Brera, past Porta Garibaldi, be swept away by the shabby chic charm of Corso Como. The pace and height change swiftly along the street: the Porta Nuova area, with its futuristic centre in Piazza Gae Aulenti, home to the tallest skyscraper in Italy. The sizes return to human dimensions in the Isola quarter (its boundaries were once defined by the Seveso and Martesana rivers), a sort of shell separate to the rest of the city, where tension seems to slip away and people say hello to one another on the street. Today, it is the most happening nightspot in Milan.

Brera is the most bohemian of Milan’s neighbourhoods.

The name comes from “braida”, meaning uncultivated land. In the 19th century, the district became popular with artists who gravitated around the Accademia di Belle Arti (via Brera, 28) and has changed face slowly since then. Today, Brera is a warren of streets where art galleries, fashion, furniture and design brands, and niche perfumers have opened their stores, close to cultural hotspots. A stroll along Brera’s cobbled streets feels authentically “milanese”. This is where, away from the international glamour of the Fashion District, old shop signs and historic coffeehouses speak of a style 63

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Palazzo di Brera Origins The palace stands on top of a fourteenth century monastery of the Humiliati order, which later passed into Jesuit hands.

Accademia di Brera In 1773 Empress Maria Theresa of Austria decided to appoint it as the home of the city’s most advanced cultural institutions: Accademia di Belle Arti, Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense, with more than one million books in four rooms, the Astronomical Observatory and the Botanical Gardens.

The Pinacoteca The picture and sculpture gallery (Pinacoteca) flanked the Accademia di Belle Arti for educational purposes.

In 1801, when Napoleon began to suppress churches and monasteries, the Pinacoteca’s collections gained works of major importance. When Milan became the capital of the Kingdom of Italy (1805), works from Veneto, Emilia Romagna and Marche arrived at the gallery. Bequests and acquisitions continued until World War II. Major works include Mantegna’s Dead Christ, Raphael’s Marriage of the Virgin, Caravaggio’s Supper at Emmaus and Silvestro Lega’s Pergola.

The 1970s donation by Emilio and Maria Jesi added works by major early twentieth century artists.

Astronomical Museum The museum displays ancient scientific instruments belonging to the Astronomical Observatory and the University of Milan.

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Via dei Fiori Chiari, Via Brera 66

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Viale Monte Grappa, Piazza Gae Aulenti 67

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CORSO COMO About 300 metres long, Corso Como joins piazza XXV Aprile to Porta Garibaldi station. This pleasant pedestrianized walk, dotted with shops, bars and restaurants, in juxtaposition with the old Porta Comacina, now Porta Garibaldi, leads as far as the futuristic Porta Nuova neighbourhood. The street is a siren call for shoppers looking for something more niche than via Monte Napoleone. One store stands out in particular, 10 Corso Como: a relaxing and cosmopolitan place opened in the early ‘90s in the courtyard of an apartment block, it is a refined ensemble of spaces: a gallery, a café restaurant, the 3Rooms Hotel and a bookshop stocked with art, design, fashion and architecture titles.

The store offers a selection of leading labels such as Courrèges, Comme des Garçons and Azzedine Alaïa, as well as up-and-coming niche designers; haute perfumes and limited-edition objets made for 10 Corso Como by top fashion houses.

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highlights Tower D - standing side by side almost entirely covered in greenery: 11.000 plants, 5.000 scrubs and 900 tall trees.

It was designed by Stefano Boeri, who in 2015 scaled the heights of the Council on Tall Buildings and Urban Habitat, calling it “the world’s most beautiful and innovative highrise”.

Vertical Forest Tower E in via De Castillia Tower D in via Confalonieri

The CINDERELLA STREET: via della madonnina Brera has a street whose transformation has been dramatic: Via della Madonnina, also known as the “Cinderella Street” of central Milan for its working-class past and sparkling revival. No. 6 was a garage, further on was the parking place of the street sweeper, and no. 23 was a brothel. Now, the same doors lead into jeweller’s ateliers, art galleries and exclusive apartments.

Via della Madonnina

Piazza del Carmine and its church Near via della Madonnina, you come across Piazza Santa Maria del Carmine, one of the loveliest squares in Milan. The church of the same name, designed in an ornate Neo-Gothic style by Carlo Maciachini, is much loved by locals, notoriously for always being in a rush, who worship the statue of Sant’Espedito, a saint ‘specialized’ in super fast graces, depicted inside with the armour and coat of a Roman soldier.

PORTA NUOVA AND VERTICAL FOREST Milan’s skyline was redesigned

by Porta Nuova, the city’s most contemporary quarter. It is home to the Torre Unicredit, designed by Cesar Pelli in the Centro Direzionale di Milano business district. Piazza Gae Aulenti is at the centre of the complex.

Not too far away, in the Isola district, another incredibly unique highrise grabs your attention: the Vertical Forest.

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Finish your romantic break with a visit to the Pinacoteca, home to Hayez’s The Kiss.

Via Brera, 28 Ph. + 39 02 50314696

BOTANICal GARDENs As 1930s pop star Ornella Vanoni once sang, “It’s not strange to fall in love with Milan.” Especially in the spring at Brera Botanical Gardens, when the wisteria and blossom resemble a Monet painting. This green island in the city centre is open six days a week. A former Jesuit garden, in 1774 the Botanic Garden gained its current appearance due to Maria Theresa of Austria. Father Fulgenzio Vitman was called upon to design the space, having created Pavia Botanic Garden. Vitman introduced an underground watering system, which still exists, albeit barely noticeable to those who now walk between the borders of sage (there are about 40 types), ferns, bulbs, herbs, vegetables, peonies, or under the age-old trees, such as linden, larch and the two ginkgo biloba that arrived here in the 1300s (a leaf is now the symbol of the Botanic Garden). The garden is visited by different bird species: mallards, robins and barn owls.

The San Marco Market Along Via San Marco the market takes place every Monday and Thursday, open from 7.30 am to 2 pm. You’ll find a bit of everything: flowers and fruit, shoes and cashmere sweaters, as well as roast chicken and ceramics. A beautiful mix!

On Thursday there are a few stalls from the famous Forte dei Marmi market.

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I NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM The oldest city museum in Milan is one of the top natural history museums in Europe.

At Corso Venezia, 55 II ULRICO HOEPLI PLANETARIUM The Planetarium vaunts paintings of the constellations on its facade. Inside, look up at the sky from the 300 moving armchairs across a very big dome.

At Corso Venezia, 57 III GALLERIA D’ARTE MODERNA The GAM (Gallery of Modern Art) has been in the Milan’s Villa Reale since 1920. Its halls display Francesco Hayez, Segantini, Canova and Medardo Rosso, plus temporary shows.

At Via Palestro, 16 IV PAC The Pavilion of Contemporary Art (PAC) erected in the ‘50s has hosted international artists like Jannis Kounellis and Marina Abramovic.

At Via Palestro, 14

Villa Reale, Casa Galimberti at Via Malpighi 76

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Chic influences seum. Set between the public gardens and the Villa Reale park you find the GAM - Gallery of Modern Art and the adjacent PAC - Pavilion of Contemporary Art. This is where Corso Venezia, the final bulwark of the four sides of the Fashion District, joins Corso Buenos Aires, a proper Grand Boulevard, brimming with ultra-pop stores. The major hub of piazza della Repubblica and the monumental central station dominate the area west of Piazzale Loreto. Not far from the station, still in piazza Duca d’Aosta, stands the Pirelli Tower, a skyscraper designed by Gio Ponti and Pier Luigi Nervi, one of the most beautiful buildings in Milan. Il Pirellone, as the locals affectionately call it, is now home to the offices of the Lombardy Region.

Having crossed the threshold of the ancient Eastern Gate, today Porta Venezia leads into a neighbourhood with a fascinating balance between the past and present. The fast pace of a young metropolis brings these once-austere streets to life.

Now it’s a place where antiques shops and old bookstores go hand in hand with fashion boutiques and multi-ethnic businesses. In the maze of streets between Via Mozart and Via Cappuccini, Art Nouveau parades in our line of sight.

A few streets away, greenery stretches out as far as the eye can see at the Indro Montanelli Public Gardens, loved by the journalist after whom they were named for their quietude, in addition to the Planetarium, designed by Pietro Portaluppi, and the Natural History Mu77

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MILANO CENTRAL STATION The station’s design was entrusted to Florentine architect Ulisse Stacchini in 1912, but it was opened as late as 1931 because of having to move the old station, in Piazza della Repubblica, resulting in an urban expansion plan based on the new transport hub. Milano Central Station, majestic and impressive, in Karst stone and marble, is perhaps the most famous specimen of crossover architecture in Italy, a combination of eclecticism, Liberty and Fascist rationalism.

The main structure has three large tripartite openings, which, upon closer inspection, resemble the designs used for Roman baths with two orders at the front: the first of which is supported by majestic columns with Doric capitals on which allegorical symbols of the railway feature; the second, above a cornice with leonine protomes, culminates in the two monumental winged horses and grooms by Armando Violi. The sides repeat the openings on the facade.

The roof over the twenty-four tracks is equally spectacular: five vaults in iron and glass dating to the post-war era by Alberto Fava.

Most of the trains are high-speed or international, with national connections to Turin, Bologna, Venice, Florence, Rome and Naples.

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Faรงade of the Central Station 79

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Palazzo Dugnani at Indro Montanelli Public Gardens 81

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Villa necchi campiglio A rationalist architectural gem stands in the quietest corner of central Milan. Villa Necchi Campiglio was designed and furnished in the mid Thirties by architect Pietro Portaluppi for the Necchi Campiglio family, Lombard industrialists who had made their fortune from sewing machines. A lush garden with the shade of tall magnolia trees, an outdoor pool and tennis court all provide the backdrop for a little café-restaurant. Featured in Luca Guadagnino’s film “I Am Love” starring Tilda Swinton, today Villa Necchi is managed by FAI (the fund for the Italian environment) and is open to the public from Wednesday to Sunday, 10 am to 6 pm for guided tours only. Access to the gardens is free, as too is entry to the café.

Via Mozart, 14 Ph. +39 02 76340121 82

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Villa Necchi Campiglio 83

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highlights style, the gardens have undergone changes down the centuries. Nature reigns supreme here, alongside the major buildings situated in the park, including Palazzo Dugnani, the Natural History Museum and the Ulrico Hoepli Planetarium. One of the most delightful trees is a centuries-old sycamore, near the Indro Montanelli statue. There are four children’s playgrounds. You can run along all of the park’s paths or use the almost two kilometer of running route. The “Orticola” flower and plant fair is held here in May. “Arianteo”, the cinema event, takes place in the gardens from July to early September. Bar Bianco, on the Via Palestro side, is open all day from 8 am to 8.30 pm.

Bastioni di Porta Venezia

Liberty QUARTER In the footsteps of the Belle Époque, we begin at Palazzo Castiglioni, at Corso Venezia, 47-49, Milan’s first Liberty-style building. Cross the street and you’ll find other Liberty edifices like Casa Berri-Meregalli, at Via Cappuccini, 8. At no. 3 Via dei Cappuccini, a flock of pink flamingos roams the gardens of Villa Invernizzi. Just outside the city walls, at Via Malpighi, 3 Casa Galimberti (1905) is entirely adorned in decorative tiles. At no. 12 along the same street stands Casa Guazzoni.

The Liberty building of the Cinema Dumont is located at Via Frisi, 2-4. Today, the atrium is home to the Biblioteca Rionale Venezia library. Piazza Oberdan conceals a little Art Déco gem: Albergo Diurno Venezia designed by Portaluppi. It belongs to FAI (the fund for the Italian environment), which organizes visits.

Tiepolo aT Palazzo Dugnani It was 1731 when new count Giuseppe Casati, who had just purchased the property from Baron Cavalchini, reached out to an internationally renowned artist, Giambattista Tiepolo,

Indro Montanelli PUBLIC GARDENS Created at the end of the eighteenth century in the French 84

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of the 1900s to the late 1960s.

About 300 of the two thousand works of art collected by Antonio and Marieda are on show in the house museum’s exhibition spaces. Also on display are original pieces of beautiful vintage furniture, such as a table designed by Piero Portaluppi and the Bechstein grand piano, as well as items bought after the donation. These include the dining room designed by Mario Sironi and presented at the 6th Triennale di Milano in 1936, and the furniture for the room designed by Gino Levi Montalcini in 1950.

Via Jan, 15 Ph. + 39 02 20240568

and his school to decorate the palazzo’s piano nobile. Tiepolo worked on the ceiling and on the wall of the main hall the frescoes which tell the tales of Scipio Africanus the Elder, rewriting in painting the heroic events narrated by the Roman historian Titus Livius. By the doors into the hall we find The Four Cardinal Virtues and in the niches the Allegories of Abundance and Power. The recently restored painting cycle enchants onlookers by the serenity of their rhythms and the elegant balance of their colours.

Via Manin, 2 Ph. +39 02 0202 Futurism AND THE ‘50s: Boschi di Stefano HOUSE MUSEUM The history of this house museum, which opened in 2003, is a love story above all else, between Antonio Boschi and his wife Mariaeda Di Stefano. But it is also a tangible testimony to the couple’s shared passion for art. The collection is one of the most important in Italian art history from the first decade 85

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I SANTA MARIA DELLE GRAZIE This basilica is one of the greatest examples of Renaissance art, in particular the Tribune commissioned by Ludovico il Moro as a family mausoleum.

At Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie, 2 II ROMAN AMPHITHEATER It was the same size as the Arena di Verona. What remains is found in the midst of an almost unknown park.

At Via de Amicis, 17 III SANT’AMBROGIO Founded in the 4th century AD, the basilica is one of the most striking examples of Romanesque architecture in Europe.

At Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, 15 IV PIETÀ RONDANINI Michelangelo’s last unfinished work (1564): the Christ and the Virgin Mary melded in a metaphysical embrace.

The new outfitting by Michele De Lucchi makes the sculpture’s holiness resonate even more.

In the Spanish hospital of Castello Sforzesco.

Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio 90

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CONSERVATIVE ALLURE dovico il Moro, the monumental Castello Sforzesco was home to one of the most refined Renaissance courts in the world; today it houses a large share of the city’s art and archaeological collections, with one special work in particular: The Pietà Rondanini by Michelangelo.

Behind the castle as far as the Napoleonic Arco della Pace, views stretch out over Parco Sempione, the largest park in the city centre, where Milanesi hang out, have fun and enjoy sports.

The Triennale preserves and drives the dignified breeze of practical Italian design, which began its life in Milan and continues to lead the world.

Milan has none of the conservative beauty of other Italian cities, which often proves a restriction for residents. Exploring it by following your heart, devoid of destination, leads to extraordinary moments of discovery. In this elegant residential neighbourhood with a Parisian soul, the laidback fabric of neoclassical buildings and Liberty-style villas along wide tree-lined avenues conceals two unique treasures: Sant’Ambrogio, the most important church in Milan after the Cathedral, and Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper, in the monastery of the Basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie.

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THE LAST SUPPER It is the most famous “Last Supper” of all time. Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper, frescoed between 1495-97 on commission

by Ludovico il Moro in the refectory of the Dominican monastery of Basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie, was immediately hailed

by Leonardo’s contemporaries as the cornerstone of Renaissance art. Leonardo, who was not fond of frescoing, chose to paint on the walls of the refectory using a technique not unlike painting on canvas. The aim was to achieve those light effects so dear to him, but it proved incompatible with the humidity of the space, given its vicinity to the kitchens, bewildering experts and restorers until the final epic restoration that ended in 1999.

Today, the masterpiece requires special conditions to preserve it, with strict entrance procedures for visitors, in groups of 25 for 15 minutes. At Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie, 2 Ph. +39 02 92800360 94

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Santa Maria delle Grazie 95

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Arco della Pace 96

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Parco Sempione, view on the park from the Triennale’s terrace 97

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CASTELLO SFORZESCO It was originally a fortress that Gian Galeazzo Visconti had built in the second half of the fourteenth century.

But a century later it was rebuilt by the condottiero Francesco Sforza, after he took possession of Milan by marrying Bianca Maria Visconti, making it his noble residence. Ludovico il Moro was next, founding one of Europe’s most sophisticated courts, calling upon the superstars of the time to adorn the castle, the likes of Leonardo da Vinci and Donato Bramante.

The sprawling building - a set of courtyards (Piazza d’Armi), towers (Torre del Filarete) and edifices of different ages, surrounded by crenellated walls and trenches - downgraded to military use experienced changing fortunes for centuries until a local architect converted it into a venue for the city’s art collections to save the castle from demolition (1896).

Among these, now expanded and divided into seven museums (the Museum of Ancient Art, the Egyptian, Prehistoric and Protohistoric sections of the Archaeological Museum, the Museum of Applied Arts, the Museum of Musical Instruments, the Museum of Furniture and Wooden Sculptures, and the Pinacoteca), the almost supernatural energy of Michelangelo’s Pietà Rondanini bursts forth.

In Piazza Castello Ph. +39 02 88463700

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Castello Sforzesco 99

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Palazzo dell’Arte home of Triennale 100

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Triennale Design Museum, view from the Triennale’s terrace 101

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highlights PARCO SEMPIONE An almost unthinkable space in Milan. Forty seven hectares of greenery extend behind Castello Sforzesco: English lawns, paths, copses, lakes and areas dedicated to sport. It is where the city’s first running trail was introduced: three kilometres two hundred metres long, well marked with “CorriMi” red and white signs every five hundred metres. The route starts at the entrance to the Arena in Via Byron, heads towards the Arco della Pace and continues along the gravel road that leads to the Triennale gardens. A complete lap around the Castle takes you back to where you started. Enjoy the clean morning air and discover corners of the park that usually go unnoticed even by locals who are habitees here. Admire the symbols of ancient and contemporary art: from the Arco della Pace to Torre Branca, and the towers of Castello Sforzesco, the metaphysical Teatro di Burri, recently brought back to life, and De Chirico’s just-restored and newly vibrant Mysterious Baths fountain (1973).

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TRIENNALE AND DESIGN MUSEUM Set in Parco Sempione, Palazzo dell’Arte has housed the Triennale since 1933, founded to promote design and applied arts with international shows. Today it is home to the Triennale Design Museum, the first Italian design museum with a permanent exhibition that retraces the history of iconic objects crafted in Italy, but whose modelling changes every year, tackling issues linked to design and production. It is a vibrant space, offering a wide range of activities, or a great place for a coffee at the bar with views over the park. A must during Design Week when the museum hosts an array of events, exhibitions and presentations.

Triennale di Milano.

Viale Alemagna, 6 Ph. + 39 02 724341 ECCENTRIC SHOPPING: ROSSANA ORLANDI A boutique, art gallery, atelier, bar and restaurant with a country chic menu near

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to the Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio. Style and taste are the buzzwords of this design pantheon, which serves up objects, home accessories and state-of-the-art lighting, as well as jewellery and clothing. Refined Milanese Rossana Orlandi is the queen of this realm, which leads off a delightful courtyard. During Design Week the courtyard becomes “the place to be”, a meeting space for the press, designers, critics and the myriad talent discovered by the hostess (including Tom Dixon, Maarten Baas, Nacho Carbonell). A haven of tranquillity. The home of a friend.

Spazio Rossana Orlandi.

Via Matteo Bandello, 14-16 Ph. +39 02 4674471 FRESCO CYCLE AT SAN MAURIZIO It seems almost impossible that the featureless façade of the Church of San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore contains the “Sistine Chapel of Milan”. And yet it does…

All of the walls, ceiling and 103

- what was once inaccessible to the public - the Hall of the Nuns are a triumph of painting, stuccoes and frescoes.

You could while away hours gazing at the details.

Bernardino Luini is the artist behind it all, who worked in the ancient church with his workshop between 1522 and 1529, depicting stories of saints, parables, episodes of the life of Christ and the Bible. Five centuries, decades of deterioration and an extraordinary restoration later, it has been returned to its former glory. One thing is certain: you’ll be left dumbfounded.

Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore.

Corso Magenta, 13 Ph. +39 02 20404175

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MUST SEE I columns of San Lorenzo Among the few surviving relics of Imperial Milan, these 16 columns date to between the 11th and 12th century with Roman age materials.

It’s a popular night hangout with young locals.

II Science Museum The collection is astonishing: planes, locomotives, sailing ships, telescopes and even the first submarine constructed in Italy after World War II. At Via San Vittore, 21 III Mudec The last architectural port in the area, the Museum of Cultures was designed by David Chipperfield.

To see the building at its most beautiful, the Agorà (a square in name and deed) on the first floor resembles a cloud - and is free to visit.

At Via Tortona, 56 IV Navigli Home to the ancient river city, this is Milan at its most picturesque and popular, lapped by two historic canals, Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese.

Darsena, Milan’s old port, is also experiencing a major revival.

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CREATIVES AND BON VIVANT From Porta Ticinese skirting the Navigli and reaching Zona Tortona you find yourself immersed in an eclectic, authentic and energetic atmosphere. Porta Ticinese is a race of noisy shopping and nightlife for creative types in the shadows of Roman columns and ancient basilicas.

The old river neighbourhood that begins around the Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese canals and extends as far as Darsena, is the evocative and at times, picturesque “Old Milan” (vecchia Milano), which locals have expertly reshaped into a chic and bohemian hangout. Here, the famous “case di ringhiera” apartment blocks look out over airy courtyards full of plants according to Milanese tradition and the magical waterways that add a certain 109

lightness to the city, a sort of never-ending holiday feel hailing from the area’s traditional trattorias, which never disappoint even the most jaded critic, and the aperitivo hour at sunset. The street that flanks the Naviglio Grande is one big outdoor happy hour: men in shirt and tie who turn up by bicycle, women sail in heels, while students gather in groups around the outside tables. Tortona and its environs, with its old industrial charm looking ever more at its best since design set foot here 30 years ago, is now the city’s image platform at every level: fashion, showrooms, agencies, photography studios, publishing houses, museums and foundations.

A synergetic ronde with concept stores, bars and restaurants in perfect sync.

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ARMANI SILOS This is Giorgio Armani’s new museum space, right opposite Teatro Armani designed in 2000 by Tadao Ando. The building, with 4.500 metres square of exhibition space spread over four floors, was erected on the site of the former Nestlè warehouse, where the corn seeds was stored. When asked the reason for the building’s odd name, Armani replied, “Just as much as food, clothes are also a part of life”.

After the anthological exhibition on the forty years of the fashion house, which marks the museum’s opening in 2015, the space will be used to host exhibitions and cultural events in line with the Armani philosophy. There’s also a gift shop, a cafeteria looking inside the building and a digital archive on the top floor (free to the public). The archive contains sketches, technical drawings and material related to the prêt-àporter and haute couture collections with workstations, touchscreen tables and a projection area for researchers and fashion lovers.

Order and precision are the keywords of the renovation, which the Milanese designer followed himself.

Sober architecture with monumental forms, organized in such a way that functional needs are met with rationality. The interior, entirely in concrete, centres on an open courtyard across three heights with two side levels and crossed by a central staircase that connects the four floors.

Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday from 11 am to 7 pm Thursday and Saturday from 11 am to 9 pm, Euro 12 At Via Bergognone, 40 Ph. +39 02 91630010 armanisilos.com

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Zona Tortona 114

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Alzaia Naviglio Grande 115

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THE APERITIVO HOUR On the south bank of the Naviglio Grande, Ripa di Porta Ticinese, around 7 pm, a relaxed crowd gathers in a neighbourhood shimmering with lights and water that has even worked its magic on the “New York Times”, where journalist Ingrid K. Williams paid tribute to this corner of Milan, calling it her favourite place and adding it to the list of the twelve streets preferred by European correspondents.

The entire Navigli, Grande and Pavese area competes in defining Milan’s happy hour, with its armchairs and sofas looking out over candlelit waters. For a wellprepared traditional cocktail head to Rita (Via Angelo Fumagalli, 1), while more open-minded and tie-slackening drinking goes on at cult spot Mag Cafè (Ripa di Porta Ticinese, 43). A valid alternative is Via Vigevano, home, among others, aaaaaa to the really popular Cape Town Cafè (Via Vigevano, 3). aaaaaaa 117

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highlights that is experiencing a revival.

The all-new area, even for locals, extends as far as Piazzale XXIV Maggio. Take a stroll here amid the greenery, enjoying the original views over the Navigli. Wonderful at sunset.

Piazza Sant’Eustorgio Away from the usual footfall, piazza Sant’Eustorgio hides traces of medieval Milan. Behind, piazza della Vetra, once the gallows for criminals, witches and swindlers. Now it is home to Parco delle Basiliche, connecting the Sant’Eustorgio and San Lorenzo basilicas. The early-Christian Sant’Eustorgio church is famous for its relics of the Wise Men and the Portinari Chapel, a Renaissance gem. The bell tower, known as “Calcatrappola”, is the tallest in Milan and the oldest in Europe after Big Ben; built in 1306, it’s seventy-five metres high. The park is cut into two

by Via Molino delle Armi, once lined by tanneries and gunsmith workshops, famous in fifteenth century Europe for their armoury of rare beauty.

Naviglio Sunday market The atmosphere is always special, even in the Navigli, the most remote corner of old Milan, when brocanteurs and antique dealers set up their stalls at the crack of dawn. The market always takes place on the last Sunday of the month, a siren call to all Milanesi wherever they live in the city. In this eclectic and enchanting grand bazaar you can find a bit of everything: old furniture, vintage clothing and accessories, vinyls, old jewellery, period trinkets, pocket and wrist watches, chinaware, silverware, books, walking sticks, bronze, glass, comics and prints. 400 exhibitors along three kilometres.

Naviglio Grande and Alzaie The last Sunday of the month From 9 am to 6 pm

Darsena The point where the Naviglio Pavese and Naviglio Grande meet, Milan’s old port is a piece of the ancient river city 118

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Fondazione Ferré Gianfranco Ferré, an architect of contemporary fashion and “Made in Italy”, passed away in 2007, but his immense cultural heritage is preserved by the Foundation that bears his name.

Elegant spaces inundated with light designed by Ferré’s friend and study pal Franco Raggi hold a vast archive, a work in progress: sketches, technical drawings, fabric samples, videos, photos of runways and ad campaigns, as well as furniture dear to Gianfranco Ferré and which he often designed personally, in addition to items gathered on his travels like Chinese vases, helmets, hats and eastern armoury, sculpted bronze bangles, and iconic objects in contemporary design. An all-round discovery of the elegance and style of a man known for his formal and stylistic sharpness.

Fondazione Gianfranco Ferré Via Tortona, 37 Ph. + 39 02 36580109 / 36582593 119

Parco delle Basiliche Gardens Choose sides: San Lorenzo or Sant’Eustorgio? It’s not an easy decision to make. It’s like saying there’s no difference between New Yorkers on the Upper East and Upper West Side. Neither class nor politics differentiates between those who frequent the Parco delle Basiliche; it’s a matter of personal taste. The San Lorenzo side, named for the early-Christian basilica that dominates the park, is more “rock”; while San Eustorgio is undoubtedly more “bon ton”, perfect for grandmas, nannies and parents with prams, kids on their bikes and scooters. What’s certain is that this green space is one of the loveliest in Milan, a haven of peace and tranquillity.

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I Porta Romana Built in 1596, when Mary Margaret of Austria passed through Milan two large pearls were added to the arch. In Latin “margarita”, and therefore Margaret, means pearl.

II Torre Velasca Built between 1951 and 1958 based on a departure from rationalist architecture, the first 18 floors, used as offices, and the 7 floors above (apartments) reach a height of 106 metres.

At Piazza Velasca, 5 III university of Milan Better known as La Statale, founded in 1923, this is the largest university in the Lombardy region.

It consists of 31 departments belonging to 8 faculties and 2 schools. The university buildings are spread across more than 200 buildings and vaunt 113 libraries.

At Via Festa del Perdono, 7 IV Biblioteca Sormani This is the library with the largest collection of books, periodicals and multimedia in Milan. Enjoy the relaxing reading garden at the back of the building, open from April to October.

At Corso di Porta Vittoria, 6

University of Milan La Statale (above, ph. Paolo Bona) 124

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CULTURED AND FUN Milanese style that is very much part of the city’s fascination.

The new Fondazione Prada - Studio OMA’s incredible renovation of an early twentieth century building converted into an exhibition space - and the top schools in the neighbourhood, including Bocconi University and La Statale spark undeniable cultural energy and diversions aimed at a young audience.

Another cultural space in Porta Romana is the eighteenth century Rotonda della Besana, designed by architects Attilio Arrigoni and Francesco Croce between 1696 and 1719. The gardens are the perfect playground for kids.

Far from the gate that marked the entrance of Napoleon and the French troops in 1796 and erected about two hundred years before the passage of Mary Margaret of Austria, on her way to Madrid to marry Philip III of Spain, today Porta Romana leads into an elegant neighbourhood not too far from the city centre.

In the impressive nineteenth century buildings lining corso di Porta Romana and the surrounding streets, life is lively and polite surrounded by airy and refined interiors that are home to well-to-do families who pass their time at meetings, previews and school shows. A laidback charm, a mixture of real life and pure 125

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ROTONDA DELLA BESANA Completed in the early 18th century, the core of the Rotonda is the church that stands in the middle of the lobate hectagonal colonnade portico, named San Michele ai Nuovi Sepolcri, now deconsecrated and used as an exhibition and cultural space.

The church is home to the MUBA - Milan Children’s Museum (ph. + 39 02 43980402), popular with families living locally and from further afield. The whole area was originally a cemetery annexed to the Ospedale Maggiore (main hospital), which disappeared under Austrian ban on burying the dead within the city walls. The building fell into disuse and was converted into barracks, a barn and the hospital’s washrooms. In 1958, ownership passed to Milan city council and it became a cultural centre.

At Via Besana, 12 126

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Rotonda della Besana 127

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FONDAZIONE PRADA On 9 May 2015 the new Fondazione Prada was unveiled. The Milan headquarters, designed

by Rem Koolhaas’s architectural firm OMA, is a converted early twentieth century distillery.

Its multi-building architectural structure combining preexisting buildings and three new edifices, Podium, Cinema and Torre, is a superb example of interaction between conservative architecture and new build.

Two creative instants in perfect balance, yet which remain clearly separate to one another.

At the same time, the structural complexity allows “open cultural scheduling in constant evolution”, as specified by Koolhaas. The complex extends over a total surface area of 19.000 metres square, 11.000 metres square of which are used for exhibitions.

The building at the entrance to the new centre welcomes the public with two spaces inspired by unique collaborations: a children’s educational area and a bar designed by director Wes Anderson, which recreates the atmosphere of a typical Milanese coffee shop.

Monday, Wednesday and Thursday, 10 am to 8 pm Friday to Sunday 10 am to 9 pm, Euro 10 Largo Isarco, 2 Ph. +39 02 56662611 fondazioneprada.org

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highlights GARDENS OF GUASTALLA An almost unreal silence surrounds the gardens and the nearby Synagogue, built in eclectic style in 1892, the main place of Jewish worship in Milan. The Guastalla are among the smallest in Milan, covering just 12.000 metres square, but are undoubtedly the city’s oldest public gardens. They were created in 1555 according to the wishes of Countess Paola Ludovica Torelli della Guastalla (hence their name), in the Italian style. In 1938 the complex was bought by Milan city council, renovated and opened to the public in 1939. The gardens feature a Baroque fish pond (replacing the original sixteenth century lake), a seventeenth century aedicule that contains a group depicting the Maddalena assistita dagli angeli, a neoclassical temple, avenues, fountains and almost two hundred trees, including maple, hornbeam, horse chestnut, magnolia, linden and other rare species.

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TERME DI MILANO Opened in 2010 by the Porta Romana arch, the baths stem from the redevelopment of a 1907 Liberty building, initially used as a horse-drawn train depot, which later became a ballroom and then a nightclub. Now, after a spell of abandonment, it has become a spa, a haven of tranquillity in the city. In the basement there are pools, jets of water, saunas and a Turkish bath; in the outdoor garden there are heated pools and a former tram set up as a sauna; the second floor is dedicated to massages. The place to enjoy an aperitivo while wearing a bathrobe at sunset.

Piazzale Medaglie D’Oro, 2 termemilano.com THE MARRONS GLACÉS OF GIOVANNI GALLI In the two Giovanni Galli bakeries, in Porta Romana and at Via Victor Hugo, 2, you walk in with a sweet tooth and out again with an obsession for their marrons glacés.

Using the same recipe since

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1911, they are made almost entirely by hand and without any added preservatives.

Cooked slowly for ten days in a sugar syrup, then glazed and baked quickly in the oven to make the surface shiny: this is the art handed down from generation to generation. Little chestnut-flavoured gems with an ever so crispy glaze, not too thick, not too fine so that it crumbles. On your second visit to Galli, try the chocolate-coated pralines made from candied chestnut paste.

Corso di Porta Romana, 2 Ph. + 39 02 86453112 BOCCONI UNIVERSITY The university was founded in 1902 by Ferdinando Bocconi, a member of the Milanese elite and a believer in cultural education as the key to progress. Today the Bocconi is an internationally renowned business university with a network of relations and exchanges with academic and cultural institutions. The university campus, comprising of old buildings along 133

Via Sarfatti, San Ferdinando Church and the Library, now also vaunts new edifices, including the oval Velodromo

by Ignazio Gardella and the Via Röntgen building by Grafton Architects, which houses all of the offices and a second 1.000 seater lecture hall. If one looks at the campus from above, one notices that the building on Via Röntgen bears the shape of a “3”, the Velodrome building the shape of a “0” and the building on Via Sarfatti the shape of an “L”, so as to form “30 L”, which stands for 30 cum laude, the highest academic grade that a college student can earn in Italy.

Via Roberto Sarfatti, 25 unibocconi.it

places Our General Manager’s favourites

Art & Culture Our Concierge’s favourites

shopping Our Chef’s favourites

food Our Barman’s favourites

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Excursions

art museums & culture

our general manager’s favourites

art & culture Top Attractions, Museums and Art Foundations, Art Galleries

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art & CULTURE ART culture

esque architecture in Europe.

Monday to Saturday 10 am to noon and 2.30 pm to 6 pm Sunday 3 pm to 5 pm Free entry Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, 15 Ph. +39 02 86450895 basilicasantambrogio.it Casa degli Atellani and Leonardo’s Vineyard Only recently discovered in the gardens of Casa degli Atellani, a Renaissance residence of incredible beauty in front of Santa Maria delle Grazie, the Leonardo da Vinci vineyard has been replanted with cuttings from the Malvasia di Candia, which produced a wine popular with connoisseurs of the time. The house and gardens are gems and are open to visitors every day.

Monday to Sunday 9 am to 6 pm Euro 10 Corso Magenta, 65 Ph. +39 02 4816150 vignadileonardo.com

Archaeological Museum A journey back in time in the former convent of the Monastero Maggiore di San Maurizio. On display, the relics of old Milan, including one of the few remaining towers of the Roman wall, Etruscan and Greek finds, medieval frescoes and statues of Buddhist art.

Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm Euro 5 Corso Magenta, 15 Ph. +39 02 88445208 comune.milano.it/museoarcheologico Astronomical Museum (64) Monday to Friday 9 am to 4.30 pm Free entry Palazzo Brera - Via Brera, 28 Ph. +39 02 50314680 brera.unimi.it Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio (89) A symbol of Milan and its ancient history, this is the city’s most important church after the Duomo and was founded in the fourth century by Milan’s patron saint, Bishop Ambrose. It preserves his relics and is considered one of the finest examples of Roman137

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Paladino and temporary exhibitions and cultural activities. For a full immersion into the world of Arnaldo Pomodoro, the Foundation also organises guided tours of the maze.

Wednesday to Friday 10 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 6 pm Free entry into the exhibition space. The maze, Euro 8 Vicolo Lavandai, 2/a Ph. +39 02 89075394 fondazionearnaldopomodoro.it Fondazione Studio Museo Achille Castiglioni The studio where one of the greatest designers of all time worked until 2002 is a magical place full of projects, drawings, models and objects that have shaped the history of design, such as the 1962 Arch lamp.

Guided tours by appointment: Tuesday to Saturday 10 am, 11 am and noon (Saturday only with a minimum of 15 people); Thursday 6.30 pm, 7.30 pm and 8.30 pm Euro 10 Piazza Castello, 27 Ph. +39 02 8053606 fondazioneachillecastiglioni.it

Cavallo di Leonardo Leonardo da Vinci designed this bronze horse for Francesco Sforza, although, at the time, it was simply a colossal clay model, later destroyed. In 1977, US art collector Charles Dent decided to revive the piece, but wasn’t until 1999 that the horse was finally finished and placed in front of San Siro Stadium.

Piazzale dello Sport Columns of San Lorenzo (107) Immersed in the heart of Milan’s nightlife and go-to aperitif spot are sixteen incredible columns with Corinthian capitals, assembled in the Middle Ages with Roman-era materials. They are one of the rare surviving artefacts from imperial Milan and appear like a mirage just inside the Porta Ticinese.

Corso di Porta Ticinese Fondazione Arnaldo Pomodoro A centre for the contemporary Avant-garde, this space alternates between exhibitions featuring the masters of Italian sculpture and art like Isgrò, Kounnellis and 138

art & culture

Fonderia Artistica Battaglia One of Milan’s historical workshops, this is where 5.000 year-old ancient bronze works like the lost wax casting join hands with the experiments, new techniques and contemporary aesthetics of some of the most famous sculptors of the twentieth century including Italians Marino Marini and Giacomo Manzu.

Monday to Friday 8 am to 5 pm Via Stilicone, 10 Ph. +39 02 341071 fonderiabattaglia.com Gallerie d’Italia (57) A museum spread across three jewels of Milanese aristocratic architecture. At Palazzo Anguissola and Palazzo Brentani, you’ll find nineteenth century masterpieces from Canova to Boccioni, Hayez to Segantini. At Palazzo Beltrami, the twentieth century Shipyard exhibition with works by Isgrò, Fontana, Carrà and de Chirico. Guided tours of the great vault are organised periodically. The vault was 139

opened to the public after a restoration by architect De Lucchi and houses another 500 paintings.

Tuesday to Sunday 9.30 a to 7.30 pm; Thursday 9.30 am 10.30 pm Euro 5 (free admission first Sunday of the month) Piazza della Scala, 6 Ph. +39 800 167619 gallerieditalia.com GAM Gallery of Modern Art (75) Located in the eighteenthcentury Villa Reale, GAM is home to priceless permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. It’s a dip into the works of the great protagonists of modern art from masterpieces by Antonio Canova and Vincent van Gogh to Paul Gauguin and Edouard Manet.

Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm Euro 5 Via Palestro, 16 Ph. +39 02 88445943 gam-milano.com

art & culture

Giò Marconi gallery One of Milan’s most reputable contemporary art galleries, it was opened in 1990 by Giò Marconi, son of Giorgio Marconi, a leading city art dealer and collector. The exhibitions mainly focus on the world of young international artists, some of whom were blessed

by Giò himself, including the brothers Jake and Dinos Chapman.

Tuesday to Saturday 11 am to 7 pm Via Tadino, 20 Ph. +39 02 29404373 giomarconi.com Lia Rumma gallery Anyone looking for the great names of contemporary art will find them at this address. The northern branch of the Lia Rumma gallery in Naples, it’s home to artists like Ettore Spalletti, Marina Abramovic, David Lamelas, Marzia Improves and Vanessa Beecroft.

Tuesday to Saturday 11 am to 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm Via Stilicone, 19 Ph. +39 02 29000101 liarumma.it 140

Massimo De Carlo gallery Massimo De Carlo recently opened a second space in Palazzo Belgioioso to complement his historical gallery on Via Ventura. A contemporary art haven, it’s one of the most important addresses in the city and its vernissage always draw a crowd.

Tuesday to Friday 11 am to 7 pm Piazza Belgioioso, 2 Ph. +39 02 36636990 massimodecarlo.it Monica De Cardenas gallery At the beginning of the ‘90s, Monica De Cardenas transformed her apartment into a famous contemporary art gallery by displaying Rebecca Horne. More than 20 years later, she has launched the careers of numerous iconic artists including the painter Alex Katz, sculptor Stephan Balkenhol and photographer Craigie Horsfield.

Monday to Friday 3 pm to 7 pm Saturday noon to 7 pm Via Viganò, 4 Ph. +39 02 29010068 monicadecardenas.com

art & culture

MUBA - Milan Children’s Museum (126) This vibrant children’s museum is located in the late-Baroque Rotonda della Besana and overlooks a lovely garden. A centre for cultural and artistic projects, it’s aimed at under-16s and has a rich programme of exhibitions, workshops and events.

Tuesday to Friday 9.30 am to 6 pm Saturday and Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Euro 8 Via Besana, 12 Ph. +39 02 43980402 muba.it MUDEC Museum of Cultures (107) A former Ansaldo industrial area turned multidisciplinary centre dedicated to the cultures of the world. At its heart, a selection of ethno-anthropological heritage from civic collections and 200 artworks, accompanied by temporary exhibitions from the likes of Joan Miró and Jean-Michel Basquiat.

Monday 2.30 pm to 7.30 pm Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm; Thursday and Saturday 9.30 am to 10.30 pm 141

Euro 5 for the permanent collection Via Tortona, 56 Ph. +39 02 54917 mudec.it Museo del Novecento (43) Home to major temporary exhibitions and a collection of works from the greatest artists of the twentieth century including Il Quarto Stato by Pellizza da Volpedo, Kandinsky’s Form, Wald Bau by Paul Klee and Boccioni’s sculpture Unique Forms of Continuity in Space.

Monday 2.30 pm to 7.30 pm Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm Thursday and Saturday 9.30 am to 10.30 pm Euro 5 Via Marconi, 1 Ph. +39 02 88444061 museodelnovecento.org

art & culture

Museo del Risorgimento (61) In the eighteenth century, the architect behind Teatro alla Scala, Giuseppe Piermarini, designed Palazzo Moriggia. The palazzo now displays paintings, sculptures, prints, weapons and memorabilia immortalising Italy of the nineteenth century. Among the most important pieces, the walking stick, sceptre, coat and crown worn

by Napoleon during his coronation as King of Italy and the first Italian tricolour flag.

Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 5.30 pm Euro 5 Via Borgonuovo, 23 Ph. +39 02 884 64177 museodelrisorgimento.mi.it Museo del Teatro alla Scala A stroll through the history of theatre and opera for music lovers and fans with objects, portraits, paintings and costumes belonging to famous composers, singers and conductors including Verdi’s fortepiano and handwritten scores by Rossini and Puccini.

Monday to Sunday 9 am to 5 pm Euro 7 142

Largo Ghiringhelli, 1 (Piazza della Scala) Ph. + 39 02 88797473 teatroallascala.org Museo Poldi Pezzoli (27) This perfectly preserved museum-home of the Poldi Pezzoli family adorns its halls with spectacularly beautiful paintings from great Renaissance masters like Botticelli, Mantegna and Piero della Francesca.

Wednesday to Monday 10 am to 6 pm Euro 10 Via Manzoni, 12 Ph. +39 02 794889-6334 museopoldipezzoli.it Natural History Museum (75) One of Europe’s most important natural history museums is famous for its vast collection of fossils, minerals, vertebrates and invertebrates. The giant T-Rex skeleton is particularly impressive.

Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm Euro 5 Corso Venezia, 55 Ph. +39 02 88463337 Nilufar gallery A temple to lovers of design

art & culture

from its nineteenth century French rugs, which Nina Yashar started collecting in the late ‘70s, to the works of Bethan Laura Wood, right through the designs of Prouvé and Perriand, tables

by Gio Ponti and the colours of Ettore Sottsass. From vintage to contemporary, a collection of some of the most unique items in the world.

Monday 3 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm (Monday morning by appointment) Via della Spiga, 32 Ph. +39 02 780193 nilufar.com PAC Pavilion of Contemporary Art (75, 77) Hidden among the gardens of Via Palestro and Villa Reale is a mural by street artist Blu. It’s on the fa�ade, a space dedicated to the latest trends in contemporary art, which over the years has hosted international artists like Lucio Fontana, Jannis Kounellis and Marina Abramovic, alongside the 143

hottest new names in the industry.

Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm, Thursday 9.30 am to 10.30 pm Euro 8 Via Palestro, 14 Ph. +39 02 88446359 pacmilano.it Palazzo Reale (43) A former royal residence, this palazzo has hosted some of the most prestigious exhibitions in Italy since the mid-twentieth century, when it welcomed works by Caravaggio and his emulators.

Among the new players are artists of the calibre of Boccioni, Escher and Rubens.

Monday 2.30 pm to 7.30 pm Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm Thursday and Saturday 9.30 am to 10.30 pm Euro 12 Piazza Duomo, 12 Ph. +39 02 88465230 palazzorealemilano.it

art & culture

Pirelli Hangar Bicocca This Foundation in the Bicocca district has become a trendsetter in the city for its contemporary art exhibitions, live events and educational workshops.

Where before there were factories, now there’s an oasis dedicated to some of the most interesting exhibitions in Milan.

Thursday to Sunday 10 am to 10 pm out Via Chiese, 2 Free entry Ph. +39 02 66111573 hangarbicocca.org Science Museum (107) One of Europe’s largest science museums, this is the perfect tribute to the genius of Leonardo da Vinci. Among the main attractions are the famous Toti submarine, the only fragment of the Moon exhibited in Italy and an entire area dedicated to Space.

Tuesday to Friday 9.30 am to 5 pm; Saturday, Sunday and public holidays 9.30 am to 6.30 pm Euro 10 Via San Vittore, 21 Ph. +39 02 485551 museoscienza.org Stadio Meazza (San Siro) From late August to mid-May,

Pietà Rondanini (89) The last work of Michelangelo Buonarroti and the piece the great artist was working on in the days before his death. A moving depiction of Christ dead, held up by the Virgin, displayed in the Castello Sforzesco’s Ospedale Spagnolo and rendered even more arresting by the styling of architect Michele De Lucchi.

Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5.30 pm Euro 5 Piazza Castello (Castello Sforzesco) - Ph. +39 02 88463700 milanocastello.it Pinacoteca Ambrosiana (43) Opened in the first half of the seventeenth century, this gallery holds priceless treasures including the world’s largest collection of drawings by Leonardo da Vinci, featuring the legendary Codex Atlanticus, as well as Caravaggio’s Basket of Fruit, Titian’s Adorazione dei Magi and Botticelli’s Madonna del Padiglione.

Tuesday to Sunday 10 am to 6 pm Euro 15 Piazza Pio XI, 2 Ph. + 39 02 806921 ambrosiana.eu 144

art & culture

this temple to Italian football comes alive with weekly Serie A matches. Home turf for AC Milan and Inter, it’s considered to be one of the most beautiful stadiums in the world despite being 90 years old. It can accommodate up to 80.000 people and is home to the Museo di Inter e Milan. out Piazzale Moratti Ph. +39 02 48798201 Museum inside the stadium, Euro 8 Winter: Monday to Sunday 9.30 am to 5 pm Summer: Monday to Sunday 9.30 am to 5 pm 9.30 am to 6 pm Euro 7 - Ph. +39 02 4042432 sansiro.net Studio Giangaleazzo Visconti An important contemporary art gallery set up inside Lucio Fontana’s former studio in Palazzo Cicogna Mozzoni. Here frescoes and historical mosaics frame the works of great names like Burri, Manzoni and Melotti, along with young international artists.

Monday to Friday 10 am to 1 pm and 2.30 pm to 6 pm Corso Monforte, 23 Ph. +39 02 795251 studiovisconti.net Torre Branca Breathtaking views of Milan 145

are to be had at the top of this steel tower in Parco Sempione.

The 108-metre-high monolith was designed in the ‘30s by Gio Ponti, the architect behind the famous Pirelli skyscraper.

Winter: Wednesday 10.30 am to 12.30 pm and 4 pm to 6.30 pm; Saturday 10.30 am to 1 pm, 3 pm to 6.30 pm and 8.30 pm to midnight; Sunday 10.30 am to 2 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm Summer: Tuesday 3 pm to 7 pm and 8.30 pm to noon; Wednesday 10.30 am to 12.30 pm, 3 pm to 7 pm and 8.30 pm to midnight; Thursday and Friday 3 pm to 7 pm and 8.30 pm to midnight; Saturday and Sunday 10.30 am to 2 pm, 2.30 pm to 7.30 pm and 8.30 pm to midnight Euro 5 Viale Camoens University of Milan La Statale (123) The largest public university in Milan and Lombardy finds its home in one of the city’s first Renaissance buildings, Ca’ Granda, overlooking the Chiostro Maggiore, also known as the Richini or Cortile d’onore.

Via Festa del Perdono, 7 Ph. +39 02 503111 unimi.it

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Comptoir des Cotonniers Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm; Sunday 11.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Manzoni, 11 corner Via Andegari, 18 Ph. + 39 02 72080406 comptoirdescotonniers.eu Corneliani Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 26 Ph. +39 02 76317955 corneliani.com Corso Como Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm; Wednesday and Thursday 10.30 am to 9 pm Corso Como, 10 Ph. +39 02 29002674 10corsocomo.com Cos Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8.30 pm; Sunday noon to 7 pm Corso Venezia, 5 Ph. +39 06 32832702 cosstores.com

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Palazzo Grifoni Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Santo Spirito, 17 Ph. +39 02 76025920 maurogrifoni.com Paolo Moretti Pelle e Pellicce Monday 3 pm to 7 pm Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Passaggio Duomo, 2 Ph. +39 02 804709 fur.it Patrizia Pepe Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Manzoni, 38 Ph. +39 02 76014477 patriziapepe.com Paul Smith Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Manzoni, 30 Ph. +39 02 76319181 paulsmith.co.uk Pellux Monday to Saturday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Piazza San Fedele, 2 Ph. +39 02 864104 pellux.it

Neil Barrett Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Santo Spirito, 24 Ph.+39 02 49518850 neilbarrett.com Nonostante Marras Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Cola di Rienzo, 8 Ph. +39 02 76280991 antoniomarras.it North Sail Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm Sunday 11 am to 1.30 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm Via Durini, 27 Ph. +39 02 76317225 northsails.com P.a.r.o.s.h.

Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Santo Spirito, 14 Ph. +39 02 76015801 parosh.com Pal Zileri Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Manzoni, 20 Ph. +39 02 76394680 palzileri.com

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Prada Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 8 Ph.+39 02 7771771 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 6 Ph.+39 02 76020273 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Corso Venezia, 3 Ph. +39 02 76001426 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 18 corner Via Sant’ Andrea, 23 Ph.+39 02 780465 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm

Philipp Plein Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 21/A Ph. +39 02 45388329 Monday 2 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Sunday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via della Spiga, 25 Ph. +39 02 76002098 world.philipp-plein.com Piacenza Cashmere Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Manzoni, 25 Ph. +39 02 72023084 piacenzacashmere.com Pinko Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 26 Ph. +39 02 76014184 pinko.com Porsche Design Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 42 Ph. +39 02 798790 porsche-design.com

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 62 Ph.+39 02 87211450 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 63-65 Ph.+39 02 876979 prada.com

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Rodo Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Corso Matteotti, 14 Ph. +39 02 84928436 rodo.it Rossignoli Monday 2.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 9 am to 12.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 7.30 pm Corso Garibaldi, 65 Ph. +39 02 86460295 rossignoli.it Roy Rogers Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Corso Venezia, 8 Ph. +39 02 76340622 royrogers.it Rubinacci Monday to Friday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 18 corner Via Gesù, 1 Ph. +39 02 76001564 marianorubinacci.net Saint Laurent Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 21 Ph. +39 02 76000573 ysl.com

Pupi Solari Monday 3 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm Piazza Tommaseo, 2 Ph. +39 02 463325 pupisolari.com Raffaella Curiel Monday to Friday 9 am to 7 pm Corso Matteotti, 14 Ph. +39 02 76002872 raffaellacuriel.com Rick Owens Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte di Pietà, 13 Ph. +39 02 45386030 rickowens.eu Roberto Cavalli Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 6 Ph. +39 02 7630771 robertocavalli.com Just Cavalli Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Corso Matteotti, 18 Ph. +39 02 76280740 just.robertocavalli.com

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Serapian Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Della Spiga, 42 Ph. +39 02 76024451 serapian.com Sermoneta Gloves Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 46 Ph. +39 02 76318303 sermonetagloves.com Simonetta Ravizza Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 1 Ph. +39 02 76012921 simonettaravizza.it Siniscalchi Camicie su misura By appointment Viale Vittorio Veneto, 32 Ph. +39 02 29003365 siniscalchicamiciesumisura.com Stefano Ricci Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 3 pm to 7 pm Via GesĂš, 3 Ph. +39 02 798588 stefanoricci.com

Salvatore Ferragamo Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 3 Ph. +39 02 76000054 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 20/4 Ph. +39 02 76006660 ferragamo.com Samsonite Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 3 pm to 7.30 pm Via San Pietro all’Orto, 11 Ph. +39 02 76020264 samsonite.it Sartoria A. Caraceni Monday to Friday 9 am to 12.30 pm and 3 pm to 6.30 pm Via Fatebenefratelli, 16 Ph. +39 02 6551972 a-caraceni.com Sartoria Rossi Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7.30 pm Piazza Duomo Ph. +39 02 86460919 Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7.30 pm Piazza del Liberty, 1 Ph. +39 02 80501933 sartoriarossi.it

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Trussardi Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Piazza della Scala, 5 Ph. +39 02 80688242 trussardi.com Tumi Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Pietro Verri, 3 Ph. +39 02 76004830 tumi.com Uman By appointment Via GesĂš, 10 Ph. +39 02 7787741 umanconcept.com Valentino Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 20 Ph. +39 02 76006182 valentino.com Red Valentino Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Corso Venezia, 6 Ph. +39 02 36756030 redvalentino.com

Stella McCartney Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Santo Spirito, 3 Ph.+39 02 76281222 stellamccartney.com Stone Island Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Corso Venezia, 12 Ph. +39 02 76001409 stoneisland.com Tindaro De Luca Monday to Friday 9 am to 6 pm Via GesĂš, 15 Ph. +39 02 794394 delucasartoria.it Tom Ford Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Pietro Verri, 3 Ph. +39 02 36529600 tomford.com Tory Burch Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday noon to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 7 Ph. +39 02 76319028 toryburch.it

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Wait and See Monday 3.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Santa Marta, 14 Ph. +39 02 72080195 waitandsee.it WP Store Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Borgogna, 3 Ph. +39 02 76004694 wpstore.com Zadig & Voltaire Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Santo Spirito, 18 Ph. +39 02 76390404 zadig-et-voltaire.com

Valextra Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Manzoni, 3 Ph. +39 02 99786060 valextra.com Versace Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 11 Ph. +39 02 7600 8528 Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 33/35 Ph. +39 02 89011479 versace.com Versace Collection Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Corso Matteotti, 10 Ph. +39 02 7601 4969 versacecollection.com Vilebrequin Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 33 Ph. +39 02 76340099 it.vilebrequin.com Vionnet Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Corso Monforte, 16 Ph. +39 02 49682563 vionnet.com

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SHOES

Ballin Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Santo Spirito, 5 Ph. +39 02 76020183 ballin-shoes.it CB Made in Italy Monday to Friday 9.30 am to 6.30 pm; Saturday 10.30 am to 7 pm Corso Garibaldi, 50 Ph. +39 02 36639181 cbmadeinitaly.com Church’s Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 11 Ph. +39 02 76318794 Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Tommaso Marino, 7 Ph. +39 02 72094454 church-footwear.com Devi Kroell Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 21 Ph. +39 02 36769580 devikroell.com Fratelli Rossetti Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm Sunday 10 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 1 Ph. +39 02 76021650 fratellirossetti.com

Alfonso Garlando Monday 12.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm Via Madonnina, 1 Ph. +39 02 874665 alfonsogarlando.it Ash Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 7.30 pm Via Madonnina, 2 Ph. +39 02 72094198 ashitalia.it Baldinini Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 25 Ph. +39 02 76280549 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Pietro Verri corner Piazza Meda, 3/5 Ph. +39 02 783481 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7.30 pm Piazza San Babila, 1/3 Ph. +39 02 76341368 baldinini-shop.com

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Kurt Geiger Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 3 Ph.+39 02 76340452 kurtgeiger.com Porselli Monday 3 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 9 am to 12.30 pm and 3 pm to 7.30 pm Piazza Ferrari, 6 Ph. +39 02 8053759 porselli.it RenĂŠ Caovilla Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Bagutta, 28 Ph. +39 02 76319049 renecaovilla.com Rivolta Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 7.30 pm Via della Spiga, 17 Ph. +39 02 798751 calzoleriarivolta.com Roberto Del Carlo Monday 3 pm to 7 pm Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Borgospesso, 25 Ph. +39 02 782184 robertodelcarlo.it

Gianvito Rossi Monday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via Santo Spirito, 7 Ph. +39 02 76280988 gianvitorossi.com Giuseppe Zanotti Design Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 8 Ph.+ 39 02 76280759 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 22 Ph.+ 39 02 76316808 giuseppezanottidesign.com Hogan Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10.30 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7.30 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 23 Ph. +39 02 76011174 hogan.com Jimmy Choo Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 1/A Ph. +39 02 45481770 jimmychoo.com

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Stuart Weitzman Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday noon to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 10 Ph. +39 02 36537260 stuartweitzman.com Sutor Mantellassi Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 3 Ph. +39 02 23369074 sutormantellassi.com Tod’s Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 1 pm to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 22 Ph. +39 02 76002423 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Ph. +39 02 877997 tods.com Vergelio Monday to Sunday 10 am to 8 pm Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 10 Ph. +39 02 76003087 vergeliocalzature.com

Roger Vivier Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 17 Ph. +39 02 76025614 rogervivier.com Santoni Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 6 Ph. +39 02 76280508 santonishoes.com Sergio Rossi Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 27 Ph. +39 02 76006140 sergiorossi.com Silvano Lattanzi Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Gesù, 11 Ph. +39 02 76028499 silvanolattanzi.com Spelta Milano Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7.30 pm Via Solferino, 1 Ph. +39 02 86457134 speltamilano.it

167

shopping

JEWELLERY

Bulgari Monday and Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 2 Ph. +39 02 777001 bulgari.com Cartier Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 16/A Ph. +39 02 3030421 cartier.it Chantecler Capri Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Santo Spirito, 5 Ph. +39 02 3701 1903 chantecler.it Chopard Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 14 Ph. +39 02 76394950 chopard.it Damiani Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 10 Ph. +39 02 76028088 damiani.com

Audemars Piguet Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 6 Ph. +39 02 76003115 audemarspiguet.com Bernardini Monday 3.30 pm to 7.30 pm Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 1.30 pm and 3.30 pm to 7.30 pm Via Caradosso, 2 Ph. +39 02 4818697 bernardinimilano.com Breguet Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 19 Ph. +39 02 76007756 breguet.com Buccellati Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 23 Ph. +39 02 76002154 buccellati.com

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Pellini Monday 2.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Manzoni, 20 Ph. +39 02 76008084 pellini.it Piaget Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Pietro Verri, 10 Ph. +39 02 32164701 piaget.com Pisa 1940 Monday 10.30 am to 7 pm Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Pietro Verri, 9 Ph. +39 02 762081 pisaorologeria.com Rolex Boutique - Pisa 1940 Monday 10.30 am to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 25 Ph. +39 02 762081 rolex.com Vertu Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 29 Ph. +39 02 7773171 vertu.com

Dodo Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Monday and Sunday 11 am to 7.30 pm Corso Matteotti, 9 Ph. +39 02 49524750 dodo.it Franck Muller Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via della Spiga, 19 Ph. +39 02 76318572 franckmuller.com Jaeger - LeCoultre Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11.30 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 1 Ph. +39 02 76281376 jaeger-lecoultre.com Officine Panerai Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 6 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 1 Ph.+ 39 02 36000008 panerai.com Omega Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 9 Ph. +39 02 76000984 omegawatches.com

169

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Vhernier Monday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7 pm; Sunday 1.30 pm to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 21 Ph. +39 02 77331560 vhernier.it Villa Milano Monday 3 pm to 7 pm Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm Via Manzoni, 23 Ph. +39 02 804279 villa.it

Pomellato Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via San Pietro all’Orto, 17 Ph. +39 02 76006086 Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm, Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 17 Ph. +39 02 7601 4530 pomellato.com Sabbadini Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 8 Ph. +39 02 76002978 sabbadini.com Tiffany & Co. Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via della Spiga, 19/A Ph. +39 02 76022321 tiffany.it Van Cleef & Arpels Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 10 Ph. +39 02 7767951 vancleefarpels.com

170

shopping

DESIGN & HOME

Barovier&Toso Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Durini, 5 Ph. +39 02 76000906 barovier.com Bellora Monday and Tuesday 10 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm Wednesday and Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Manzoni, 43 Ph. +39 02 6596361 bellora1883.com Bialetti Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7.30 pm Piazza Duomo, 17 Ph. +39 02 23369408 bialetti.it Boffi Monday 10 am to 6 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Solferino, 11 Ph. +39 02 879099100 boffi-solferino.com Bose Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via San Pietro all’Orto, 7 Ph. +39 02 76280535 bose.it

Alessi Monday 10 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Manzoni, 14/16 Ph. +39 02 795726 alessi.com Armani Casa Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Sant’Andrea, 9 Ph. +39 02 7626 0230 Next opening: Corso Venezia, 14 armanicasa.com Artemide Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Corso Monforte, 19 Ph. +39 02 76006930 artemide.it B&B Italia Store Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Durini, 14 Ph. +39 02 764441 bebitalia.com

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Flos Monday 3 am to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Corso Monforte, 9 Ph. +39 02 37011080 flos.com Fornasetti Monday 3 am to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Corso Matteotti 1/A Ph. +39 02 89658040 Monday 3 am to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Corso Venezia, 21/A corner Via Senato Ph. +39 02 84 16 13 74 fornasetti.com Frette Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm; Sunday 11 am to 6 pm Via della Spiga, 31 Ph. +39 02 783950 frette.com Kartell Monday 3 am to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Turati corner Via Carlo Porta, 1 Ph. +39 02 6597916 kartell.com

Cargo Milano - HighTech Monday 1.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Piazza XXV Aprile, 12 Ph: +39 02 6241101 cargomilano.it Cassina Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Durini, 16 Ph. +39 02 76020745 cassina.com Christofle Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Corso Venezia, 6 Ph. +39 02 781948 eu.christofle.com De Padova Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday 10 am to 6.30 pm; Tuesday and Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Santa Cecilia, 7 Ph. +39 02 777201 depadova.com Dimorae Monday to Friday 10 am to 6 pm Via Monti, 25 Ph. +39 02 48011803 dimorae.it Driade Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Borgogna, 8 Ph. +39 02 799957 driade.com 172

shopping

Society Limonta Monday 3 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Palermo, 1 Ph. +39 02 72080453 societylimonta.com Tearose Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Piazzetta Croce Rossa, 2 Ph. +39 02 86998767 tearose.it Valli Tessuti Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 9.30 am to 7 pm Via Verdi, 2 Ph. +39 02 76001986 vallitessuti.com Venini Monday to Saturday 10 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 10 Ph. +39 02 76000539 venini.com Vetrerie di Empoli Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 22 Ph. +39 02 76008791 vetreriediempoli.it

Poliform Monday 3 pm to 7 pm; Tuesday to Sunday 10 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm Piazza Cavour, 2 Ph. +39 02 76318619 poliform.it Pratesi Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Manzoni, 21 Ph. +39 02 89095135 it.pratesi.com Sahrai Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Manzoni, 45 Ph. +39 02 8690570 sahrai.com Sawaya & Moroni Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 7.30 pm Via Manzoni, 11 Ph. +39 02 86395200 sawayamoroni.com Spazio Rossana Orlandi Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Matteo Bandello, 14/16 Ph. +39 02 4674471 rossanaorlandi.com

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shopping

BEAUTY

Culti Milano Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm Corso Venezia, 53 Ph. +39 02 83986600 Monday 3.30 pm to 7.30 pm Tuesday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Fiori Chiari, 6 Ph. +39 02 3655 3875 culti.com Dr. Vranjes Monday to Sunday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Fiori Chiari, 24 Ph. +39 02 89010492 drvranjes.it Etro Fragrances Monday 3 pm to 7 pm Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm Via Pietro Verri corner Via Bigli, 2 Ph. +39 02 76005450 etro.com Jo Malone Monday and Sunday 3 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Via Manzoni, 18 Ph. +39 02 76341313 jomalone.com

Acqua di Parma Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 11 am to 7 pm Via Gesù, 1 corner Via Monte Napoleone Ph. +39 02 76023307 acquadiparma.com Aesop Monday 12.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm Piazza del Carmine, 1 Ph. +39 02 89095356 aesop.com British Box Monday 3 pm to 7.30 pm Tuesday to Sunday 10 am to 1 pm and 3 pm to 7.30 pm Via Melzo, 34 Ph. +39 02 29517575 britishbox.it Creed Monday 3.30 am to 7.30 pm Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7.30 pm Opening on every third Sunday of the month noon to 2 pm and 2.30 pm to 7.30 pm Via Madonnina, 17 Ph. +39 02 3670 5120 creed.cale.it 174

shopping

Profumerie Mazzolari Monday to Saturday 9 am to 7.30 pm Galleria San Babila Piazza San Babila Ph. +39 02 76000063 mazzolari.info Profumo Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm Via Brera, 6 Ph. +39 02 72023334 profumomilano.com

Kiko Makeup Milano Monday to Saturday 9 am to 10 pm; Sunday 10 am to 10 pm Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15 Ph. +39 02 76023330 kikocosmetics.com Officina profumo-farmaceutica Santa Maria Novella Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via Madonnina, 11 Ph. +39 02 36519630 smnovella.it Profumeria della Farmacia Centrale Monday to Friday 8.30 am to 7.30 pm; Saturday 10 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7.30 pm Via Spadari, 13 Ph. +39 02 876793 Profumeria della Vecchia Milano Monday to Saturday 9 am to 7 pm Via San Giovanni sul Muro, 8 Ph. +39 02 86451669 / 80299449

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BOOKSHOP

Libreria dell’automobile Monday 2.30 pm to 7 pm Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 12.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 7 pm Corso Venezia, 45 Ph. +39 02 76006624 libreriadellautomobile.it Libreria dello Sport Monday 3.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Tuesday to Friday 10 am to 1.30 pm and 3.30 pm to 7.30 pm; Saturday 10 am to 12.30 pm and 3.30 pm to 7 pm Via Carducci, 9 Ph. +39 02 8055355 libreriadellosport.it Libreria Internazionale Ulrico Hoepli Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via Ulrico Hoepli, 5 Ph. +39 02 864871 hoepli.it Rizzoli Galleria Monday to Saturday 9 am to 8 pm; Thursday 9 am to 10 pm Sunday 10 am to 8 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 79 Ph. +39 02 86461071 rizzoligalleria.it

Armani Libri Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.30 pm Via Manzoni, 31 Ph. +39 02 72318675 Corso Como Bookshop Friday to Tuesday 10.30 am to 7.30 pm, Wednesday and Thursday 10.30 am to 9 pm Corso Como, 10 Ph. +39 02 654831 10corsocomo.com Feltrinelli Duomo Monday to Thursday 9.30 am to 9.30 pm; Friday and Saturday 9.30 am to 10 pm Sunday 10 am to 8 pm Piazza Duomo corner Via Ugo Foscolo, 1/3Â Ph. +39 199 151173 lafeltrinelli.it Gogol & Company Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 10 pm Via Savona, 101 Ph. +39 02 45470449 gogolandcompany.com

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Mondadori Monday to Sunday 9 am to 11 pm Piazza Duomo, 1 Ph. +39 02 45441113 mondadoristore.it Red - Feltrinelli Monday to Thursday 7.30 am to 11 pm; Friday 7.30 am to midnight; Saturday 10 am to midnight; Sunday 10 am to 11 pm Piazza Gae Aulenti, 1 Ph. +39 199 151 173 lafeltrinelli.it Taschen Monday to Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Meravigli, 17 Ph. +39 02 8434 5013 taschen.com The American Bookstore Monday 1.30 pm to 7 pm Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 am to 7 pm Via Camperio, 16 Ph. +39 02 878920 americanbookstore.it

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food

our chef’s favourites

food Restaurants, Street food, Ice cream shops, Cafés & Pastry shops

178

food

gourmet RESTAURANTS Armani Nobu One of the world’s best chefs, Nobuyuki Matsuhisa reinvents Japanese cooking with South American and Peruvian influences. The restaurant blends the elegance of Giorgio Armani with essential oriental design.

Specialities: “black cod with miso” and “tempura prawns”.

Monday to Saturday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 11.30 pm open Sunday for dinner Via Pisoni,1 Ph. +39 02 72318645 armanirestaurants.com Contraste Inaugurated in 2015 in an early Nineteenth-century villa, this is the restaurant of Uruguayan chef Matias Perdomo, Argentine sous chef Simon Press and Italian maître Thomas Piras.

Experimental, studied dishes presented in three formulas: an á la carte menu, a six-course tasting menu and a “reflection” menu, with 11 tastings chosen by the chef based on the 179

diner’s preferences. The wine list includes noble labels and flashes of brilliance.

Monday to Saturday 7.30 pm to 11.30 pm; Sunday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm Via Giuseppe Meda, 2 ph. +39 02 49536597 contrastemilano.it Cracco Carlo Cracco’s eponymous restaurant. It’s where the popular two Michelin star chef showcases his innovative haute cuisine, with dishes like “pigeon in coffee crust”, “potato filled with mascarpone, almonds and vanilla” and “fondant pig snout with green tomato and scampi”. A small table for four people, the table d’hôte, has direct views into the kitchen. Cellar with 1000+ labels.

Impeccable service.

Tuesday to Friday 12.30 pm to 3 pm; Monday to Saturday 7.30 pm to midnight Via Victor Hugo, 4 Ph. +39 02 876774 ristorantecracco.it

food

Enrico Bartolini - Mudec A new venture for Michelinstarred chef Enrico Bartolini, bringing his contemporary classic cuisine to the thirdfloor restaurant at Milan’s Museum of Cultures. Alongside great classics like “beetroot and gorgonzola risotto” and “bottoni filled with oil and lime” are also tasting menus and daily specials retracing local Italian gastronomic traditions.

Tuesday to Saturday noon to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 10.30 pm Monday open for dinner Via Tortona, 56 Ph. +39 02 84293701 enricobartolini.net Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia This restaurant, which boasts two Michelin stars, is a gastronomic journey around Italy. Opened in the Sixties

by Aimo and Nadia, now it’s run by chefs Fabio Pisani and Alessandro Negrini. Old favourites like “spaghetti with green onions” are still on the menu, as well as reworked dishes such as “mountain 180

veal carpaccio infused with ginger, anchovy sauce and turnip green jus”.

Monday to Friday 12.30 pm to 2 pm and 7.30 pm to 10.30 pm Saturday open for dinner Via privata Montecuccoli, 6 Ph. +39 02 416886 aimoenadia.com Joia The only vegetarian restaurant in Italy to hold a Michelin star. Chef Pietro Leemann and his philosophy of natural haute cuisine are the reasons for this success. Cult dishes include “panzanella with crunchy vegetables and cannellini centre with wasabi on a bed of saffron” and “raspberries, strawberries and tomatoes with balsamic vinegar and green pepper”. The influence of the chef’s Eastern travels is tangible.

Monday to Saturday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 11 pm Via Castaldi, 18 Ph. +39 02 2049244 / 02 29522124 joia.it

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Seta Opened in 2015, it immediately jumped to the heights of haute cuisine. Sought-after recognition came quickly, due to direction by one of Italy’s most acclaimed chefs, Antonio Guida, who won the first Michelin star in less than a year.

The menu embraces sea and land, North and South (starting with Puglia, the chef’s homeland), with exotic influences, in an array of dishes in which the quality of ingredients and the immediacy of flavors reign supreme.

The restaurant’s floor-to-ceiling windows look out onto the hotel courtyard, achieving a striking continuum between the inner and outer spaces.

Even the kitchen looks outside, allowing diners to see the chef at work, who with sous chef Federico Dell’Omarino, pastry chef Nicola Di Lena and his team puts his spin on Italian cuisine, such as “rice Cagnone style with vegetables, Maccagno cheese and raspberry dust”, one of the 181

dishes dedicated to Milan.

Monday to Friday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 10.30 pm Saturday open for dinner Via Andegari, 9 Ph. +39 02 87318897 mandarinoriental.com Spazio - Il Mercato del Duomo On the top floor of Il Mercato del Duomo, a sort of cathedral of taste, Spazio Milano is the hotbed where up-and-coming chefs at Niko Romito’s school (his Reale at Castel di Sangro boasts three Michelin stars) try their hand at creative refined cuisine, making their debut in the world of haute cuisine.

Monday to Sunday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 10 pm c/o Il Mercato del Duomo (3rd floor), Piazza Duomo corner of Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Ph. +39 02 878400 nikoromitoformazione.it ilmercatodelduomo.it

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a view!). In the kitchen Roberto Conti, one of Milan’s liveliest chefs.

The restaurant plumbs for the finest ingredients in special editions for the “greyhound” brand, such as extra-virgin olive oil to caviar. Star dishes are always “Spaghetti cacao and pepe with sea urchins” and “Risotto Milanese style with veal shank medallion”.

Monday to Friday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 8 pm to 10 pm Saturday open for dinner Piazza della Scala, 5 Ph. +39 02 80688201 trussardiallascala.com

Teatro alla Scala Il Marchesino Next to Teatro alla Scala, the restaurant of the undisputed master of Italian haute cuisine Gualtiero Marchesi follows the informal ambience of a bistro. At lunch and dinner, refined food presented with elegant essentiality in perfect Marchesi style, where the gastronomic creed of the great chef is expressed by marrying present and past. You choose your dishes on an iPad, on which you can even view photos of the menu. Amuse-bouche: saffron rice spheres breaded in polenta flour and fried. Pressed duck.

Monday to Friday noon to 2.30 pm and 8.30 pm to 10.30 pm Piazza della Scala corner Via Filodrammatici, 2 Ph. +39 02 72094338 marchesi.it

Vun A refined gastronomic experience by Michelin-starred chef Andrea Aprea, a true Neapolitan.

In his dishes echoes of his city’s traditions blend with nuances from all over Italy. For a taste, try “caprese… sweet salted” or “Riserva Carnaroli rice, scampi, lemon, rosemary and capers”. Private room for 10 people.

Tuesday to Saturday 7 pm to 10.30 pm Via Silvio Pellico, 3 Ph. +39 02 88211350 ristorante-vun.it

Trussardi alla Scala A brand extension of the wellknown Milanese fashion house Trussardi, this is one of the most alluring restaurant in the city due to its elegant ambience and a striking view over Teatro alla Scala and via Manzoni (ask for a table with 182

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INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANTS

mustard and green apples”.

Tuesday to Saturday noon to 2.30 pm and 7 pm to 11 pm, Monday open for dinner Via Castaldi, 20 Ph. +39 02 49457424 bjork.it

Ba - Asian Mood Traditional Chinese cooking in a modern reworking melded with typical Italian ingredients and flavours. A wide variety of dim sum, little tastes of Southern China (such as “braised pork ravioli”), as well as more experimental dishes like “green tea spaghetti with salmon and bottarga”.

Tuesday to Sunday noon to 2.45 pm and 7.30 pm to 11.45 pm Via Ravizza, 10 Ph. +39 02 4693206 / 340 6891623 ba-restaurant.com Björk A location with two faces.

A Swedish deli and behind it a Scandinavian brassiere, where the ingredients of Swedish cooking, like elk, reindeer, herring and salmon, are king. Highlights include “marinated salmon with gravadlax sauce and boiled mignon potatoes” and “mackerel baked with new potatoes, 183

Dim Sum There’s no doubt that the dumplings are the stars here.

Chef Wu Jing cooks around 15 types with fillings that range from Chianina beef with scallops to grouper, shrimp and seaweed. An ode to the elegance of Chinese cooking, served here with a fine glass of Perrier Jouët Grand Brut or a more traditional cup of tea.

Tuesday to Sunday noon to 2.30 pm and 7 pm to 11 pm Via Bixio, 29 corner of Via Pisacane Ph. +39 02 29522821 dim-sum.it

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El Porteño Serving up Argentinian specialities within walking distance from the Arena Civica di Parco Sempione. Aside from the famous Argentinian barbecued meats, don’t miss out on other traditional dishes like “empanadas”, “chicken en escabeche” or, for dessert, “dulce de leche”.

Monday to Sunday 7.30 pm to midnight Viale Elvezia, 4 Ph. +39 02 34537275 elporteno.it Finger’s Garden A young fashionable restaurant with a beautiful Far East-style garden. Chefowner Roberto Okabe moves with ease between raw fish dishes, like the superb mixed sashimi, and original fusion creations, to which he sometimes adds a Brazilian touch.

Monday to Saturday 8 pm to midnight Via Keplero, 2 Ph. +39 02 606544 fingersrestaurants.com

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Iyo Behind the elegant sushi bar of this starred restaurant is the master Haruo Ichikawa. Starting with Japanese classics, the dishes evolve into creative westernized interpretations like “suckling pig cooked at a low temperature, chanterelles in sake, teriyaki sauce and new season garlic in tempura”.

Service is warm and attentive.

Wednesday to Sunday 12.15 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 11.30 pm Tuesday open for dinner Via Piero della Francesca, 74 Ph. +39 02 45476898 iyo.it Tokuyoshi Italian tradition and Japanese technique are the cornerstones of the innovative cooking by Yoji Tokuyoshi, who after several high-profile positions became the chefowner of this Michelin-starred restaurant, crafting modern and original dishes. Take the “pigeon hidden with chard and radicchio” and the dessert “cement and earth”, Jerusalem artichoke gelato with

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mascarpone cream, herbs and meringue.

Tuesday to Saturday 7 pm to 10.30 pm; Sunday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7 pm to 10.30 pm Via San Calocero, 3 Ph. +39 02 84254626 ristorantetokuyoshi.com Vasiliki Kouzina It’s a dream come true for Vasiliki, Greek by birth, Milanese by adoption. Pompeii red walls, brass tables and counters, green velvet couches, glasses and a menu inspired by traditional Greek cooking with Balkan and Mediterranean influences. Vasiliki’s own “octopus in honey” is excellent.

The street number matches the building opposite the restaurant, but you can’t miss it.

Wednesday to Monday noon to midnight Via Clusone, 6 Ph. +39 02 94381405 vasilikikouzina.com Wicky’s The kingdom of chef-owner Wicky Priyan and one of the best Asian restaurants in Italy. Preparation, pairings, sauces and cook185

ing are all impeccable. The sushi is always sensational, so too are the excellent cooked dishes like the “tuna triangle”, seared tuna with Punjab pepper sauce, Japanese mustard, ginger and olive oil.

Tuesday to Friday noon to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 10.30 pm; Monday and Saturday open for dinner Corso Italia, 6 Ph. +39 02 89093781 wicuisine.it Zero At the elegant ebony sushi counter, between the 35-metretall backlit onyx panels, you can experience first hand the expert skills of Japanese chef Hide Skinohara. Traditional sushi and sashimi go hand in hand with the famous “zero dishes”, flavourful versions of the cornerstones of Japanese cooking.

Tuesday to Sunday 7 pm to 11.30 pm Corso Magenta, 87 Ph. +39 02 45474733 zeromagenta.it

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TRADITIONAL MILANESE COOKING AND TRATTORIAS

Al Coniglio Bianco With an outdoor seating area overlooking the Naviglio Grande, this is a place for all those seeking true Milanese fare. Seafood dishes are on offer alongside traditional dishes like “osso buco with saffron risotto”. There’s just one golden rule here: use of the finest, freshest ingredients.

Monday to Friday 7 pm to 11 pm Saturday and Sunday 12.30 pm to 3 pm Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 12 Ph. +39 02 58100910 alconigliobianco.it La Brisa Near the ruins of an Ancient Roman imperial palazzo, this restaurant offers traditional Lombardy recipes, seafood dishes, meat and vegetarian specialities. The roast suckling pig is particularly memorable. During the warmer months, locals love lunching

and dining in the restaurant’s lovely garden.

Monday to Friday 12.45 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.45 pm to 10.30 pm Sunday open for dinner Via Brisa, 15 Ph. +39 02 86450521 ristorantelabrisa.it Ratanà Traditional Milanese and Lombardy dishes reinterpreted with inspiration and creativity by chef Cesare Battisti. As dictated by local custom, the menu is mostly meat based with the exception of freshwater fish. Dishes with 3, maximum 4, seasonal ingredients of the highest quality. The “Milanese risotto with osso buco” is divine. The outdoor area is equally lovely.

Monday to Sunday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 11 pm Via de Castillia, 28 Ph. +39 02 87128855 ratana.it Ristorante Lucca Antique silverware, crystal chandeliers and an Art Deco atmosphere in a historic res-

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taurant that has been open since the 1920s.

The menu draws inspiration from various Italian culinary traditions with a preference, as you might have guessed from the name, for Tuscany.

Check out the weekly specials for a creative flourish, which are served alongside classics like “smoked fillet with herbs” or “pici pasta with guanciale and pecorino”.

Monday to Friday 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 7.30 pm to 11.30 pm Saturday open for dinner Via Castaldi, 33 Ph. +39 02 29526668 ristorantelucca.it Ristorante Solferino A bastion of traditional Milanese cooking for more than a century, it proffers an excellent seasonal menu where typical dishes are flaunted in all their glory, including “osso buco with risotto”, also catering for fish lovers with dishes like “grilled juliette of turbot with potato cake and pis187

tachios”. A wine list with 1,000+ Italian labels.

Monday to Sunday noon to 2.30 pm and 7 pm to 11.30 pm Via Castelfidardo, 2 corner Via Solferino Ph. +39 02 29005748 ilsolferino.com Rovello 18 A restaurant positively reviewed by the most prestigious restaurant guides with a Gambero Rosso award.

Dishes from Lombardy and Piedmont, with a few surprises alongside the veal cutlets, such as the ribs from Txogitxu, one of the most famous butchers in Galicia. You simply must have a homemade dessert.

Monday to Friday 12.30 pm to 3 pm and 7 pm to 11.30 pm Saturday and Sunday open for dinner Via Tivoli, 2 corner Corso Garibaldi Ph. +39 02 72093709

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Taglio Cafe, cocktail bar, deli and restaurant. On the menu, a select number of dishes, all of which are well executed.

Studied to satisfy meat, fish and vegetable lovers, in line with the seasons. Just one example, “gnocchi with clams, anchovy sauce and anchovy crumble”.

Monday to Saturday 12.30 pm to 3 pm and 7.30 pm to 10.30 pm; Sunday 12.30 pm to 4 pm and 7.30 pm to 10.30 pm Via Vigevano, 10 Ph. +39 02 36534294 taglio.me Trattoria del Nuovo Macello Meat reigns supreme - thick and crunchy, the “cutlet of veal loin alla Milanese” is a must have - in this trattoria that serves more than just tradition, also offering contemporary revisited dishes like the “oyster carbonara” and “salmon sashimi”. Creative desserts.

Monday to Friday noon to 2.30 pm and 8 pm to 10.30 pm Saturday open for dinner 188

Via Lombroso, 20 Ph. +39 02 59902122 trattoriadelnuovomacello.it Trippa A true Italian trattoria serving stews and offal (liver, lungs, tripe, etc.) dishes reinterpreted for gourmands. Try the “vitello tonnato”, generally considered to be the best in Milan, “Fassona beef tartare with hazelnuts” and “wild boar white ragù”.

Monday to Saturday 7.30 pm to 11.30 pm Via Vasari, 3 corner Via Muratori Ph. +39 327 6687908 trippamilano.it

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HIP&CHIC Antica Osteria Cavallini On the menu, the best of tradition accompanied by sought-after fish dishes.

Next to “risotto alla Milanese” you’ll find “risotto with prawns and Tuscan kale sauce” while mains include “veal cutlet” and “squid with radicchio”. The large covered garden is lovely.

Monday to Friday noon to 3 pm and 7 pm to midnight Saturday open for dinner Via Mauro Macchi, 2 Ph. +39 02 6693174 anticaosteriacavallini.it Bàcaro del Sambuco This is the kingdom of Achille, his chef wife Francesca and maître daughter Alessandra. The dishes are an authentic expression of the owner’s Emilia roots. Try the “stuffed pasta made by Francesca” or the “Gragnano spaghetti with tuna belly sautéed with capers, olives and tomatoes”. The courtyard is welcoming and cov189

ered in winter.

Monday to Saturday 9.30 am to 11 am and noon to 4 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 13 Ph. +39 02 76394832 ilsambuco.it Ceresio 7 On the top floor of the former Enel building, this is a restaurant with breathtaking views over Milan. Popular from morning to night for its pools and lunch served on terrace tables. At dinner, Italian classics are reinterpreted with a modern touch by chef Elio Sironi and include “veal with lemon, anchovies and peas”.

Monday to Sunday 12.30 pm to 3 pm and 7.30 pm to 11 pm Via Ceresio, 7 Ph. +39 02 31039221 ceresio7.com

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Pisacco In the heart of Brera, one of the best-loved places on the urban restaurant scene. Focus on modern Italian with dishes like “spaghetti with fondant onion” and “gazpacho, roasted vegetables and buffalo mozzarella”. Michelinstarred chef Andrea Berton supervises and puts his name on Gabriele Faggionato’s menu. The house hamburger is incredible.

Tuesday to Sunday noon to 3.30 pm and 7 pm to 11 pm Via Solferino, 48 Ph. +39 02 91765472 - pisacco.it

Lacerba In an eighteenth-century horsechanging post, this restaurant’s Italian dishes are centred on fresh fish without neglecting those who love their meat. A few examples: the “millefiori of scallops, smoked provola cheese and aubergines” and “beef fillet with porcini mushrooms and rosemary potato chips”.

Monday to Friday noon to 3 pm and 7.15 pm to 11.30 pm Saturday open for dinner Via Orti, 4 Ph. +39 02 5455475 lacerba.it

U Barba Among suitcases, scooters, toys and industrial chandeliers, the cuisine is typically Ligurian: “fish soup”, “trofie with pesto, green beans and potatoes” and focaccia.

Outside, a gorgeous veranda open in summer and an oddity unique to the restaurant: a bocce pitch.

Tuesday to Friday 7 pm to 11 pm Saturday and Sunday noon to 3 pm and 7 pm to 11 pm Via Decembrio, 33 Ph. +39 02 45487032 ubarba.it

Langosteria A cult favourites in Milan for fish lovers. At the entrance, a raw fish counter welcomes guests like a declaration of intent. Oysters, seafood and dishes like “linguine with clams, baby squid and bottarga” and “tagliatelle with raw and cooked scampi”.

Monday to Saturday 7 pm to midnight Via Savona, 10 Ph. +39 02 58111649 langosteria.com

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STREET FOOD Al Mercato A burger bar that prepares hamburgers fit for gourmets and delicious sandwiches.

In the kitchen, the two chefs and owners, Beniamino Nespor and Eugenio Roncoroni. Try the “superdupermegaburger” with cheddar, bacon, egg, onion, tomato, tartar sauce and special sauce. Be patient: there are only 15 seats and they don’t accept reservations.

Monday to Saturday 12.30 pm to 3 pm and 7.30 pm to 11 pm Via Sant’Eufemia, 16 Ph. +39 02 87237167 al-mercato.it De Santis Locals and out-of-towners love to visit this historic location on Corso Magenta to try its many unique sandwiches. Ideal for a quick lunch or snack. More than 200 different types of sandwiches.

Monday, Thursday and Sunday noon to 11.30 pm, Friday and 191

Saturday noon to midnight Corso Magenta, 9 Ph. +39 02 72095124 paninidesantis.it Luini The panzerotti prepared by Luini are an institution in Milan. Fried, according to Pugliese tradition, or baked, they are perfect enjoyed outdoors, perhaps in the nearby Piazza San Fedele or a little further away in Piazza Duomo. Don’t miss the classic tomato and mozzarella panzerotto, but the range of fillings is varied with a few Milanese concessions.

Monday 10 am to 3 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm Via Santa Radegonda, 16 Ph. +39 02 86461917 luini.it

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Macelleria Popolare Butcher, bàcaro and deli where exclusively organic and freerange meat is prepared each day. A project by Giuseppe Zen, the brain behind Mangiari di Strada. There’s also a kitchen that makes dishes to order using the meat on sale. A menu that covers Italian popular cuisine north to south.

Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to midnight Mercato Coperto Piazza XXIV Maggio Ph. +39 02 39468368 Mangiari di Strada The best of Italian street food proposed by chef Giuseppe Zen, lover of organic and biodynamic products. Cheese and cold cuts of all types, just picked vegetables, hand-rolled pasta and top-quality meat.

Street food that can also be enjoyed comfortably seated in a space that tastefully marries marble and wood.

Monday to Saturday noon to 3 pm Via Lorenteggio, 269 Ph. +39 02 4150556 mangiaridistrada.com

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PIZZERIAS Dry Cocktails & Pizza Signature cocktails and original pizzas in a glamorous designer night-time setting. A winning combination for this uber-popular place. The pizzeria is in the capable hands of Simone Lombardi, whose chef background is applied to the iconic Neapolitan dish.

Monday to Sunday 7 pm to midnight Via Solferino, 33 Ph. +39 02 63793414 drymilano.it Fresco&Cimmino In a street leading to the cathedral there’s something you wouldn’t expect in Milan: a restaurant where, with other specialities, you can eat genuine Neapolitan pizza. Try the margherita verace and the sausage and friarielli pizza. There’s also an artisan pastry shop and an elegant privè.

Monday to Sunday noon to midnight Via Ugo Foscolo, 4 Ph. +39 02 97374869 / 97374862 frescocimmino.it

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La Taverna Gourmet Pizzas made only with sourdough left to rise for at least 48 hours, quality ingredients, a creative chef Leonardo Giannico and an expert pizza maker Vincenzo Masi. Gourmet pizzas like the “MariNera”, with a squid ink dough, whitebait and anchovy sauce, and pizza with scampi, cacio and pepe. There’s a privè for a maximum of 16 people.

Tuesday to Sunday 7 pm to midnight Via Andrea Maffei, 12 Ph. +39 02 5468297 latavernagourmet.it Lievità Among the ten top pizzerias in Italy, it’s home to Giorgio Caruso, who loves to call himself and his staff (all born in Campania) the “tomato specialists”: they use nine different types. The pizza is light: made with stone ground flour and topped with PDO, PGI and Slow Food ingredients.

Monday to Sunday noon to 3 pm and 7 pm to midnight Via Ravizza, 11 Ph. +39 02 91328251 pizzeria-lievita.com

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ice cream shops Amorino Nature’s flavours in gelato form. Many people, some for the cones, some for the cups, come here to find happiness in the shape of macaroons, filled with gelato, naturally.

Monday to Sunday 11 am to 12.30 am Via Fiori Chiari, 9 Ph. +39 02 91532598 amorino.com Chocolat An iconic spot for chocolate gelato lovers. Eight types of cacao from all over the world are used to make the various flavours from 100% pure (no added milk) to those flavoured with orange, amaretto and rum.

Monday to Friday 7.30 pm to 1 am, Saturday 8 pm to 1 am Sunday 10 am to 1 am Via Boccaccio, 9 Ph. +39 02 48100597 chocolatmilano.it

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2 pm to 10.30 pm; Sunday 2 pm to 9 pm Via Abamonti, 2 Ph. +39 02 20520397 lagelateriadellamusica.it

Il Massimo del Gelato Milano The locals adore it. Artisan gelato made with natural ingredients. Specialities include 10 Domori chocolate flavours and granita made with 90% fresh fruit. The parlour has a neoclassical feel with a few ironic touches.

Winter: Tuesday to Sunday noon to 11 pm Summer: Tuesday to Sunday noon to midnight Piazza Risorgimento corner Via Pisacane Ph. +39 02 70103218 massimogelatomilano.it La Gelateria della Musica Italian newspaper La Repubblica considers it one of the top 20 gelaterias in the world.

It’s the brainchild of Fabio Brigliadoro, former musician and chef, who has conquered Milan with his original flavours and secret recipes like “bread, butter and jam”, gelato with “lightly salted roasted pistachios” and “chocolate ganache sorbet”.

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cafÊs & pastry shops Bastianello A Baroque interior, glass chandeliers and an elegant covered outdoor seating area form the backdrop for this triumph of sweets, pastries, cakes and chocolate sculptures which are so beautiful it’s almost a shame to eat them. As an alternative in summer, try their gelato as you stroll towards the cathedral.

Monday to Sunday 7 am to 11 pm Via Borgogna, 5 Ph. +39 02 76317065 bastianello.com Cova One of the oldest cafes in Italy. Famous for its panettone, made-to-order sweets, chocolate and other products that after two centuries continue to conquer not only local palates, but international fans too.

Monday to Saturday 7.45 am to 8.30 pm, Sunday 10 am to 7 pm Via Monte Napoleone, 8 Ph. +39 02 76005599 / 76000578 pasticceriacova.it

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Pasticceria Biffi Milano One of the first to try the famous Biffi panettone was Pope Pius X, who was curious about this decadent local cake. But the story of this pastry shop started even earlier, in 1847. From then on, it has been a popular meeting place, not just for its desserts, but also for a pleasant tea or coffee break, or a hot chocolate in winter.

Monday to Sunday 6.30 am to 10.30 pm Corso Magenta, 87 Ph. +39 02 48006702 biffipasticceria.it Pasticceria Cucchi This famous historic Italian institution has tantalized poets and thinkers, directors and businessmen over the years.

Beautiful, delicious cakes, fragrant croissants and other delights including the Milanese panettone, which is made all year round.

Tuesday to Sunday 7 am to 10 pm Corso Genova, 1 Ph. +39 02 89409793 pasticceriacucchi.it

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Pasticceria Marchesi Founded in 1824, this is a piece of Milanese history, synonymous with excellence in cake, chocolate and panettone making. The historic premises are an eighteenth-century palazzo in Via Santa Maria alla Porta, in the Magenta area.

A gourmet location imbued with elegance and sweetness.

The mignon pastries are a must.

Tuesday to Saturday 7.30 am to 8 pm; Sunday 8.30 am to 1 pm Via Santa Maria alla Porta, 11/A Ph. +39 02 862770 / 876730 pasticceriamarchesi.it Pavè From breakfast to happy hour, any time of the day is a perfect time to stop by Pavè.

Artisan brioches prepared with different types of dough and fillings, delicious cakes like the “tonka”, shortcrust pastry with pistachio frangipane, raspberry jam and white chocolate mousse flavoured with tonka beans. The panini for lunch or an afternoon snack are equally tasty.

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Tuesday to Friday 8 am to 8 pm Saturday and Sunday 8.30 am to 7 pm Via Casati, 27 Ph. +39 02 94392259 pavemilano.com Sant Ambroeus A short distance from Via Monte Napoleone, this elegant pastry shop is renowned for its delicious creations prepared daily in the large artisan kitchen next door as well as for its Easter eggs, simply chocolate masterpieces. Another pride and joy: the Milanese panettone.

Monday to Sunday 7.45 am to 8.30 pm; June and July: Monday to Saturday 7.45 am to 8.30 pm Corso Matteotti, 7 Ph. +39 02 76000540 santambroeusmilano.it

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8.30 am to midnight Piazza XXV Aprile, 10 Ph. +39 02 49497301 eataly.net/it Enoteca Cotti Tuesday to Saturday 9 am to 1 pm and 3 pm to 8 pm; in December open also on Sundays and Mondays Via Solferino, 42 Ph. +30 02 29001096 enotecacotti.it Giovanni Galli Monday to Saturday 8.30 am to 7.45 pm; Sunday 9 am to 1.30 pm Via Victor Hugo, 2 Ph. +39 02 86464833 giovannigalli.com Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone Monday to Saturday 8.30 am to 10 pm Via Santo Spirito, 10 corner Via Gesù, 5 Ph. +39 02 76001123 ilsalumaiodimontenapoleone.it

FOOD SHOPPING

Arte del ricevere Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7 pm Via Melloni, 35 Ph. +39 02 715442 artedelricevere.com Centro Botanico Monday to Saturday 10 am to 7.45 pm; Sunday 3 pm to 7.30 pm Piazza San Marco, 1 Ph. +39 02 29013254 centrobotanico.org Coffee Studio 7Gr. Monday to Friday 9 am to 7 pm Via Valparaiso, 9 Ph. +39 02 3656 1122 7gr.it Dammann Frères Monday to Sunday 10 am to 8 pm Piazza XXV Aprile, 12 Ph. +39 02 62910288 dammann.fr Eat’s Monday to Sunday 10 am to 9 pm Galleria del Corso, 4 Ph. +39 02 76015176 eatstore.it Eataly Smeraldo Sunday to Thursday 8.30 am to 11 pm; Friday and Saturday 197

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Torrefazione Moka Hodeidah Monday to Saturday 7 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday in December 8 am to 6 pm Via Piero della Francesca, 8 Ph. +39 02 342472 hodeidah.it Urbani Tartufi Monday 10 am to 1 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 1 pm and 3 pm to 8 pm Via Anfossi, 13 Ph. +39 02 5410 7735 urbanitartufi.it

La Rinascente Food & Restaurant Monday to Sunday 8.30 am to midnight. Entrances from la Rinascente Piazza Duomo (until store closing time) or via Santa Radegonda 1 and via San Raffaele 2 (entrance until midnight) Piazza Duomo Ph. +39 02 8852471 rinascente.it Pasticceria Ernst Knam Monday 4 pm to 8 pm; Tuesday to Friday 10 am to 1 pm and 4 pm to 8 pm; Saturday 10 am to 1 pm and 3 pm to 8 pm; Sunday 10 am to 1 pm Via Anfossi, 10 Ph. +39 02 5519 4448 eknam.com

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our barman’s favourites

aperitif CafĂŠs, Cocktail and Lounge bars, Wine bars

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B cafè Monday to Saturday 8 am to 1.30 am Via San Maurilio, 20 Ph. + 39 02 89093317 Bar Basso Monday 9 am to 1.30 am; Wednesday to Sunday 9 am to 1.30 am Via Plinio, 39 Ph. + 39 02 29400580 barbasso.com Bar Luce / Fondazione Prada Monday, Wednesday and Thursday 9 am to 9 pm; Friday to Sunday 9 am to 10 pm Largo Isarco, 2 Ph. + 39 02 56662611 fondazioneprada.org/barluce Camparino in Galleria Tuesday to Sunday 7.30 am to 8 pm Galleria Vittorio Emanuele corner Piazza Duomo Ph. +39 02 86464435 camparino.it Cantine Isola Tuesday to Saturday 10 am to 10 pm; Sunday 10 am to 2 pm and 4 pm to 10 pm Via Sarpi, 30 Ph. +39 02 3315249

Cape Town Cafè Monday to Saturday 8 am to 2 am; Sunday 6 pm to 2 am Via Vigevano, 3 Ph. +39 02 89403053 capetowncafe.com Damascegliere Monday to Saturday 6 pm to 2 am Corso Garibaldi, 34 Ph. +39 02 94386592 damascegliere.com Deus Café Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday 9.30 am to 1 am; Friday and Saturday 9.30 am to 2 am Via Thaon di Revel, 3 Ph. +39 02 83439230 deuscafe.it Dry Cocktails & Pizza Monday to Sunday 7 pm to 1.30 am Via Solferino, 33 Ph. +39 02 63793414 drymilano.it El Buscia (Champagne bar) Monday and Sunday 5 pm to 10 pm; Tuesday to Saturday 11 am to 2 pm and 4.30 pm to 10 pm Viale Beatrice d’Este, 48 Ph. +39 02 45498762 elbuscia.it

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Il Bar - Bulgari Hotel Milano Monday to Sunday 7 am to 1 am Via privata Fratelli Gabba, 7/B Ph. +39 02 8058051 bulgarihotels.com La bottega del Vino Monday to Sunday 4 pm to 2 am Piazza Lega Lombarda, 1 Ph. +39 02 34936128 / 349 8716998 labottegadelvinomilano.com Le Biciclette Monday and Sunday 6 pm to midnight; Tuesday to Saturday 6 pm to 2 am Via Torti, 2 Ph. +39 02 58104325 lebiciclette.com Mag Cafè Monday to Sunday 7.30 am to 1.30 am Ripa di Porta Ticinese, 43 Ph. +39 02 39562875 Mandarin Bar & Bistrot Wednesday to Saturday 8 am to 2 am; Sunday to Tuesday 8 am to 1 am Via Monte di Pietà 16 Ph. +39 02 87318898 mandarinoriental.it

Fioraio Bianchi Caffè Monday to Saturday 8 am to midnight Via Montebello, 7 Ph. +39 02 29014390 fioraiobianchicaffe.it Fonderie Milanesi Tuesday to Friday 7 pm to 2 am Saturday 12.30 pm to 3 pm and 7 pm to 2 am; Sunday 12.30 pm to 3 pm and 7 pm to 1 am Via Giovenale, 7 Ph. +39 02 36527913 Frida Monday to Friday 12.30 pm to 3 pm and 6 pm to 2 am; Saturday 6 pm to 2 am; Sunday noon to 1 am Via Pollaiuolo, 3 Ph. +39 02 680260 fridaisola.it Globe Monday 11.30 am to 10 pm Tuesday to Saturday 11.30 am to 2 am; Sunday noon to 1 am Palazzo COIN, Piazza Cinque Giornate, 1 Ph. +39 02 55181969 globeinmilano.it

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N’Ombra de Vin Monday to Sunday 10 am to 2 am Via San Marco, 2 Ph. +39 02 6599650 nombradevin.it Rita & Cocktails Monday to Sunday 6.30 pm to 2 am Via Fumagalli, 1 Ph. +39 02 8372865 Straf Monday to Sunday 11 am to midnight Via San Raffaele, 3 Ph. +39 02 805081 straf.it Terrazza Triennale Osteria con vista Monday 6 pm to 1 am Tuesday to Sunday noon to 1 am Viale Alemagna, 6 Ph. +39 02 36644340 triennale.org

203

nightlife

our event manager’s favourites

nightlife Theatres, Bars, Clubs

204

nightlife

Il Gattopardo Tuesday, Friday and Saturday 6 pm to 5 am; Wednesday 6 pm to 1 am; Thursday 6 pm to 3 am Sunday 6 pm to 2 am out Via Piero della Francesca, 47 Ph. +39 02 34537699 ilgattopardocafe.it Jazz Cafè Monday to Sunday 8 am to 3 pm Corso Sempione, 8 Ph. +39 02 33604039 jazzcafe.it Just Cavalli Monday to Sunday 7 pm to 5 am Via Camoens c/o Torre Branca Ph. + 39 02 311817 milano.cavalliclub.com/it La Balera dell’Ortica Tuesday to Sunday 2 pm to 1.30 am Via Amadeo, 78 Ph. +39 02 70128680 labaleradellortica.com La salumeria della Musica Via Pasinetti, 4 Ph. +39 02 56807350 lasalumeriadellamusica.com Nepentha From September 9 to May 31: Friday and Saturday noon to 5 am Piazza Diaz, 1 Ph. +39 02 804837 nephentaclub.com

Blanco Winter: Monday to Saturday 7.45 am to 2 pm Summer: Monday to Saturday 7.45 am to 2 pm; Sunday 7 pm to noon Via Morgagni, 2 Ph. +39 02 29405284 blancomilano.it Blue Note Tuesday to Sunday 7.30 pm to 1.30 am Via Borsieri, 37 Ph. +39 02 69016888 bluenotemilano.com Byblos Milano Tuesday to Saturday 11.30 pm to 5 am Via Messina, 38 Ph. +39 338 8098326 byblosmilano.com Carlo e Camilla in segheria Monday to Sunday 6.30 pm to 2 am Via Giuseppe Meda, 24 Ph. +39 02 8373963 carloecamillainsegheria.it Club Plastic Friday to Sunday from noon Via Gargano,15

205

nightlife

Rocket From September 15 to June 30: Thursday to Saturday 11 pm to 5 am Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 98 Ph. +39 333 3313817 therocket.it Terrazza 12 Monday to Sunday noon to 1 am Via Durini, 28 Ph. +39 02 92853651 terrazza12.it The Botanical Club Monday to Saturday 6.30 pm to 2 am Via Pastrengo, 11 Ph. +39 02 36523846 thebotanicalclub.com The Doping Club at The Yard hotel Monday to Sunday 5.30 pm to 1 am Piazza XXIV Maggio, 8 Ph. +39 02 89415901 thedopingclub.com

Nottingham Forest Tuesday to Saturday 6.30 pm to 2 am; Sunday 6 pm to 1 am Viale Piave, 1 Ph. +39 02 798311 nottingham-forest.com Octavius - The stage Winter: Monday to Friday 5.30 pm to 1 am; Saturday and Sunday until 2 am Summer (from August 22): Monday to Friday 5.30 pm to 1 am; Saturday and Sunday until 2 am Piazza Aulenti, 4 Ph. +39 02 63793539 replaythestage.com PrivĂŠ Armani Wednesday and Thursday 11.30 pm to 3 am; Friday and Saturday 11.30 pm to 3.30 am Via Pisoni, 1 Ph. +39 02 72318655 armanirestaurants.com Radetzky Monday 8 am to 1.30 am; Tuesday to Saturday 8 am to 2 am; Sunday 10 am to 1.30 am Corso Garibaldi, 105 Ph. +39 02 6572645 radetzky.it

206

nightlife

theatres

Teatro Franco Parenti Via Lombardo, 14 Ph. +39 02 59995206 teatrofrancoparenti.it Teatro Carcano Corso di Porta Romana, 63 Ph. +39 02 55181377 teatrocarcano.com Teatro Dal Verme Via San Giovanni sul Muro, 2 Ph. +39 02 87905 dalverme.org Teatro Manzoni Via Manzoni, 42 Ph. +39 02 7636901 teatromanzoni.it Teatro Nazionale Via Rota, 1 (ex Piazza Piemonte) Ph. +39 02 00640888 teatronazionale.it Teatro Nuovo Piazza San Babila, 3 Ph. +39 02 794026 teatronuovo.it Zelig out Viale Monza, 140 Ph. +39 02 2551774 areazelig.it

Auditorium di Milano Largo Mahler Ph. +39 02 83389401 laverdi.org Elfo Puccini Corso Buenos Aires, 33 Ph. +39 02 00660606 elfo.org Piccolo Teatro Grassi Via Rovello, 2 Ph. +39 02 42411889 piccoloteatro.org Piccolo Teatro Strehler Largo Greppi, 1 Ph. +39 02 42411889 piccoloteatro.org Piccolo Teatro Studio Mariangela Melato Via Rivoli, 6 Ph. + 39 02 42411889 piccoloteatro.org Teatro alla Scala Via Filodrammatici, 2 Ph. + 39 02 88791 teatroallascala.org Teatro degli Arcimboldi out Viale dell’Innovazione, 20 Ph. +39 02 641142200 teatroarcimboldi.it

207

outside nightlife milan

our pr director’s favourites

outside milan Weekend, Mountains and Sea

208

outside milan

WEEKEND Lake Como The mountains drop steeply down over the mirror of water, shaping a magical landscape that bewitched Romantic writers and today’s film stars like George Clooney, with monasteries, little beaches and old towns where the lifestyle remains unchanged, like the medieval village of Torno. The villas, surprising and diaphanous feats of architecture that skirt the shores of the lake: Villa d’Este in Cernobbio, converted into a luxury hotel in 1873, Villa Carlotta in Tremezzo with its art collection, statue of Palamedes by Canova and garden, a marvel in the spring when the azaleas blossom. In Tremezzo, Villa Balbianello is where director George Lucas set the romantic planet of Naboo in Star Wars: Episode 2. Dreamlike villas and parks also reign in the magical quietude of Bellagio, where luxuriating in a happy hour drink by the lake is the done thing.

Our suggestion: take a taxi 209

boat in old-style mahogany.

Hotel Villa d’Este Via Regina, 40 Cernobbio (CO) Ph. +39 031 3481 villadeste.com Il Sereno Hotel Via Torrazza, 10 Torno (CO) Ph. + 39 031 5477800 ilsereno.com Hotel Villa Serbelloni Via Roma, 1 Bellagio (CO) Ph. +39 031 950216 villaserbelloni.com Ristorante La Terrazza del Grand Hotel Tremezzo The finest Italian cuisine by Gualtiero Marchesi Via Regina, 8 Tremezzina (CO) Ph. + 39 0344 42491 grandhoteltremezzo.com Lake Maggiore Increasingly sought after by connoisseurs and those who hold it dear won over by the captivating scenery, historic homes, a year-round mild climate with the most beautiful flowers and trips out surrounded by rare beauty on roads that enhance the fun.

Over the Borromean Gulf (the Piedmont shore of the lake) stands the lovely city of Stresa,

outside milan

from where boats set sail to visit the Borromean Islands, beginning on Isola Bella with the terraced garden of Palazzo Borromeo, home to paintings, marbles, stuccos and some of the world’s finest Flemish tapestries. On Isola Madre, there is a precious botanic garden brimming with rare plants and exotic flowers.

Grand Hotel des Iles Borromees Corso Umberto I, 67 Stresa (VB) Ph. + 39 0323 938938 borromees.com Lake Garda Vineyards, olive and lemon trees, high and low-lying shores, a treasure nestled between Lombardy, Veneto and Trentino worth visiting slowly.

The lake has four souls: to the north there’s a Norwegian fiord, deep and blue, an oasis for kite surfers and mountain bikers. To the east there’s the Costa Azzurra, with its winding road on the water’s edge.

To the west, there’s the Costiera Amalfitana, with tunnels dug deep into the walls that drop down steeply. To the south, the lake becomes a sea 210

that extends flat into the Po plain. Our suggestion: Lake Garda is popular in summer months, but its beauty can be enjoyed in September and October too, when the sky is clear and the sun renders the water reminiscent of Nordic lakes.

Lefay Resort & Spa Via Angelo Feltrinelli, 136 Gargnano (BS) Ph. + 39 0365 241800 lefayresorts.com Langhe The land of great Piedmontese red wine and the most prized truffles in the world, hilly scenery, a UNESCO World Heritage site, centuriesold villages and unforgettable flavours make the Langhe a place to linger. Around Alba, the main city and international white truffle capital, some of the world’s finest wines are produced, like Barolo and Barbaresco. An interesting fact: on your travels in the Langhe you might come across some giant, out-of-proportion benches. They are the work of US designer Chris Bangle, who was the head of design

outside milan

for the BMW Group for almost 20 years and has lived in the Langhe for six years - he has a studio there.

Ristorante Piazza Duomo Piazza Risorgimento, 4 corner of Vicolo dell’Arco Alba (CN) Ph. +39 0173 366167 piazzaduomoalba.it Relais San Maurizio Località San Maurizio, 39 Santo Stefano Belbo (CN) Ph. +39 0141 841900 relaissanmaurizio.it Negozio Tartufi Morra Piazza Pertinace, 3 Alba (CN) Ph. +39 0173 364271 - 2 tartufimorra.com Franciacorta A little plot of peaty land, from Brescia to Lake Iseo, with farmsteads dating to the turn of the century, where 24 hours of peace is guaranteed. Wineries are always open meaning that passersby can pop in at any time, unrestricted by opening hours. In the land of great Italian sparklers, vineyards as far as the eye can see, vanishing on the shores of the lake.

For an authentic and relaxing wine tourism experience take 211

the Strada del Franciacorta, one of the first wine roads in Italy, which winds for 80km amid hills, nature reserves, waterways, villas and castles.

L’Albereta Relais & Chateaux Via Vittorio Emanuele, 23 Erbusco (BS) Ph. + 39 030 7760550 albereta.it

outside milan

MOUNTAINS Courmayeur, La Thuile and Val d’Aosta If you’re a mountain lover who adores waking up with a view of snowy peaks or already practically on the slopes, if you like to look out at the snow from the spa, gaze up at the stars or bask in silence, Val d’Aosta, from Courmayeur to La Thuile, is an alpine paradise where luxury and exclusivity are traditionally linked to the mountains. From Courmayeur in just a few minutes of cable car you reach the 2,000 metres of Mont Blanc (the highest summit in Europe). La Thuile, at 1,441 metres, is a large basin dominated by the Rutor glacier, on the border with France. Its ski resort, Espace San Bernardo, thanks to the international “skis on” link with the French destination of La Rosière, offers 150km of slopes served by 38 lifts.

Hotel Nira Montana Frazione Arly, 87 La Thuile (AO) Ph. +39 0165 883125 niramontana.com 212

Bormio, the Spas and Valtellina Valtellina, suspended between Italy and Switzerland, defined by rivers, streams, lakes and thick forests, welcomes ski lovers as well as walkers in love with nature. One of the places that make the area truly unique is Bormio, in the Stelvio National Park, which not only held the Alpine Ski World Championships in 1985 and 2005 but has been famous since Ancient Roman times for its spas, now organized across three striking bathhouses, with 9 springs at various points in the valley.

Grand Hotel Bagni Nuovi Via Bagni Nuovi, 7 Valdidentro (SO) Ph. +39 0342 910131

outside milan

SEA Portofino Almost unreachable in its golden isolation, you can only get to Portofino on foot after a long walk or by car (although the car park is astronomical). But the square, that tiny square in which myriad films have been set, so much so that it has been recreated in Universal Studios, in Orlando, Florida, is a gem that nobody ever wants to leave.

At sea in the summer the yachts compete at docking, just so their sailor can dive with the piazza behind them. In the winter, on the other hand, the boats are smaller, wrecked by the dried salt, owned by a few fishermen who still fancy going out to sea in the morning.

Belmond Hotel Splendido Salita Baratta 16, Portofino (GE) Ph. +39 0185 267800 belmond.com Santa Margherita Ligure On the Riviera di Levante along the Ligurian coast, the “pearl of Tigullio� is surrounded by maritime pine forests on the hills and olive groves that extend 213

across dense terraces, the result of centuries-old work. Villas and gardens overlook the port, which welcomes fishing boats and luxurious craft. The port is the centre of activities such as sailing, rowing and diving. Philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche, artist Wassily Kandinsky and Evita PerĂłn all stayed here.

Grand Hotel Miramare Via Milite Ignoto, 30 Santa Margherita Ligure (GE) Ph. +39 0185 287013 grandhotelmiramare.it Sestri Levante This small city on the Ligurian coast overlooks Baia delle Favole and Baia del Silenzio. The former gained its name in the 19th century thanks to fairytale writer Hans Christian Andersen (who wrote The Little Mermaid), who was enchanted by the place, while the Baia del Silenzio is famous for its distinctive multicoloured houses that look at the Gulf of Tigullio.

Grand Hotel Villa Balbi Viale Rimembranza, 1 Sestri Levante (GE) Ph. +39 0185 42941 villabalbi.it

214

m a n da r i n o r i e n ta L MILAN

The Mandarin

Bar&Bistrot is the hotel’s beating heart featuring an iconic design inside and a bucolic environment

courtyard outside.

The Bar’s mood evolves from relaxed to vibrant as in the

the hours pass 216

217

218

aaa 219

DUOMO | city center

220

In contrast to the exuberance of the public areas, the atmosphere in the guestrooms and suites reflects the other side of “classic� Milanese style, calm and neutral where the contemporary interiors exude a sense of exceptional comfort 221

222

Mandarin Oriental, Milan boasts two ‘Speciality’ suites distinguished by original interior designs reflecting the highest levels of Milanese creativity: two jewels created as a tribute to the great Masters of design, Piero Fornasetti and Gio Ponti 223

224

A heAven dedicated to wellness, The Spa’s holistic approach provides physical, emotional and mental equilibrium .

The hotel’s Oriental heritage is evident here both in its treatments Shui’ and in the ‘Feng

architecture 225

Michelin starred Seta restaurant brings the guests on a gourmet experience by executive chef Antonio Guida. A temple of gastronomy featuring an elegant inner The

courtyard for al fresco dining, contemporary yet and classic design in the interiors

226

227

legend Districts Fashion District Duomo Brera | Corso Como | Isola Porta Venezia | Repubblica Sempione | Castello | Magenta Porta Ticinese | Navigli | Tortona From the Centre to Porta Romana out Outside Milan Shopping Accessories Craft Kid Man Woman Restaurants Gluten Free Vegetarian Vegan Kosher

228

index & Other Stories 7 For All Mankind

147 147

A

Abercrombie 147 Accademia di Belle Arti 63, 64 Acqua di Parma 39, 174 ADD 147 Aesop 174 Agent Provocateur 147 Al Coniglio Bianco 186 Al Mercato 191 Alan Journo 147 Albergo Diurno Venezia 84 Alberta Ferretti 147 Alessi 171 Alexander McQueen 147 Alfonso Garlando 165 Amorino 193 Angelo Fusco 147 Antica Osteria Cavallini 189 Antonia 147 Antonio Citterio 11, 13 Antonio Guida 15 Aperitivo 109, 116 Archaeological Museum 98, 137 Arco della pace 91, 102 Arena 102 Arianteo 84 Armani 50 Armani Caffè 39 Armani Casa 171 Armani Dolci 39 Armani Fiori 39 229

Armani Libri 39, 176 Armani Nobu 39, 179 Armani Privé 39 Armani Silos 110 Arte del ricevere 197 Artemide 171 Ash 165 Aspesi 148 Astronomical Museum 64, 137 Astronomical Observatory 64 Audemars Piguet 168 Auditorium di Milano 207 Azzedine Alaïa 68

B

B cafè 201 B&B Italia Store 171 Ba - Asian Mood 183 Bàcaro del Sambuco 189 Baldinini 165 Balenciaga 148 Ballin 165 Bally 148 Banner 148 Bar Basso 201 Bar Bianco 84 Bar Luce / Fondazione Prada 201 Barba Napoli 148 Barovier&Toso 171 Basilica of San Lorenzo 118, 119 Basilica of San Simpliciano 61 Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio 89, 102, 137

Basilica of Sant’Eustorgio 118, 119 Basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie 89, 91, 94 Bastianello 195 Bellora 171 Belmond Hotel Splendido 213 Belstaff 148 Berluti UOMO 148 Bernardini 168 Bialetti 171 Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense 64 Biblioteca Rionale Venezia 84 Biblioteca Sormani 123 Biffi Boutique 148 Bistrot Eat’s 56 Björk 183 Blanco 205 Blue Note 205 Blumarine 148 Bocconi University 125, 133 Boffi 171 Boglioli 148 Bonpoint 149 Bormio 212 Borsalino 149 Boschi Di Stefano House Museum 85 Bose 171 Botanical Gardens 64, 71 Bottega Veneta 149 Breguet 168 Brioni 149

British Box 174 Brunello Cucinelli 149 Buccellati 168 Bulgari 168 Burberry 149 Byblos Milano 205

c

Ca’ Granda 145 Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana 30 Camparino in Galleria 201 Canali 149 Cantine Isola 201 Capalbio 149 Cape Town cafè 117, 201 Cargo Milano - HighTech 172 Carlo e Camilla in segheria 205 Carlo Tivioli 150 Cartier 168 Casa Berri-Meregalli 84 Casa degli Atellani 137 Case di ringhiera 109 Casa Galimberti 84 Casa Guazzoni 84 Casa Manzoni 43 Cassina 172 Castello Sforzesco 89, 91, 98

102, 144 Cathedral 45, 46 Cathedral terrace 57 Cavalli e Nastri 150 Cavallo di Leonardo 138 CB Made in Italy 165 230

Cèline 150 Centro Botanico 197 Centro Direzionale di Milano business district 70 Ceresio 7 189 Cesare Paciotti 150 Chanel 150 Chantecler Capri 168 Chiostro Maggiore 145 Chocolat 193 Chopard 168 Christofle 172 Church of San Babila 27 Church of San Ferdinando 133 Church of San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore 103 Church of San Michele ai Nuovi Sepolcri 126 Church of Santa Maria del Carmine 70 Church of Santa Maria presso San Satiro 43 Church’s 165 Cinema Dumont 84 Club Plastic 205 Coffee Studio 7Gr. 197 Collezione Lorenzi 38 Columns of San Lorenzo 107, 138 Comptoir des Cotonniers 150 Contraste 179 Corneliani 150 Corso Como 63, 68, 150 Corso Como Bookshop 176 231

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 56 Cos 150 Courmayeur 212 Comme des Garçons 68 Cova 38, 195 Courrèges 68 Cracco 179 Creed 174 Cruciani 151 Culti Milano 174

D

Daad Dantone 151 Damascegliere 201 Damiani 168 Dammann Frères 197 Darsena 11, 107, 109, 118 De Padova 172 De Santis 191 Design Week 11, 102, 103 Deus Cafè 201 Devi Kroell 165 Dim Sum 183 Dimorae 172 Dior 151 Dodo 169 Dolce & Gabbana 38, 151 Doriani 151 Dr. Vranjes 174 Driade 172 Dry Cocktails & Pizza 192, 201 Dsquared2 152 Duomo 45, 46 Duomo Terrace 57

Fondazione Studio Museo Achille Castiglioni 138 Fonderia Artistica Battaglia 139 Fonderie Milanesi 202 Fornasetti 172 Franciacorta 211 Franck Muller 169 Fratelli Rossetti 165 Fresco&Cimmino 192 Frette 172 Frida 202 Furla 153

E

E. Marinella 152 Eat’s 197 Eataly Smeraldo 197 El Buscia (Champagne bar) 201 El Porteño 184 Elfo Puccini 207 Emilio Pucci 152 Emporio Armani 39, 153 Enoteca Cotti 197 Enrico Bartolini - Mudec 180 Ermenegildo Zegna 152 Etro 152 Etro Fragrances 174 Excelsior Milano 56, 152

G

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 11, 45, 50, 56 Gallerie d’Italia 45, 57, 139 Gallia e Peter 153 Gallo 153 GAM - Gallery of Modern Art 75, 77, 139 Gardens of Guastalla 132 Gherardini 153 Giacomo Arengario restaurant 57 Giambattista Valli 153 Gianvito Rossi 166 Giò Marconi Gallery 140 Gio Moretti 153 Giorgio Armani 153 Giovanni Galli bakery 132, 197 Giuseppe Zanotti Design 166 Givenchy 154 Globe 202

F

Falconeri 152 Fashion District 29, 77 Fay 152 Fedeli 152 Feltrinelli Duomo 176 Fendi 152 Ferrari Store 153 Finger’s Garden 184 Fioraio Bianchi Caffè 202 Flos 172 Fondazione Arnaldo Pomodoro 138 Fondazione Gianfranco Ferrè 119 Fondazione Feltrinelli 11 Fondazione Prada 11, 125, 128 232

Gogol & Company 176 Grand Hotel Bagni Nuovi 212 Grand Hotel des Iles Borromees 210 Grand Hotel Miramare 213 Grand Hotel Villa Balbi 213 Gucci 50, 154 Guess 154 Gusella 154

Isola 63, 70 Italia Independent 155 Iyo 184

J

Jaeger - LeCoultre 169 Jazz Cafè 205 Jil Sander 155 Jimmy Choo 166 Jo Malone 174 John Richmond 155 Joia 180 Just Cavalli 161 Just Cavalli Caffè 205

H

Hermès 154 Herno 154 Hogan 166 Hotel Nira Montana 212 Hotel Villa d’Este 209 Hotel Villa Serbelloni 209 Hugo Boss 154

K

Kartell 172 Kenzo 155 Kiko Makeup Milano 175 Kiton 155 Kurt Geiger 166

i

I Pinco Pallino 154 Il Bar - Bulgari Hotel Milano 202 Il Gattopardo 205 Il Gufo 154 Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia 180 Il Massimo del Gelato Milano 194 Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone 39, 197 Il Salvagente 154 Il Sereno Hotel 209 Indro Montanelli Public Garden 84 Isaia 155

L

L.O.V.E. 56 L’Albereta Relais & Chateaux 211 L’Arabesque 155 La Balera dell’Ortica 205 La bottega del Vino 202 La Brisa 186 La Gelateria della Musica 194 La Martina 155 La Perla 155 La Rinascente 56, 156 233

Luisa Cevese - Riedizioni Luisa Spagnoli

La Rinascente Food & Restaurant 198 La salumeria della Musica 205 La Taverna Gourmet 193 La Terrazza - La Rinascente 57 La Thuile 212 Lacerba 190 Ladurée macaroons 56 Lake Como 209 Lake Garda 210 Lake Maggiore 209 Langhe 210 Langosteria 190 Lanvin 156 Larusmiani 156 Le Biciclette 202 Lefay Resort & Spa 210 Leonardo’s Vineyard 137 Lia Rumma Gallery 140 Liberty quarter 84 Libreria dell’automobile 176 Libreria dello Sport 176 Libreria Internazionale Ulrico Hoepli 176 Lievità 193 Liu Jo 156 Loewe 156 Longchamp 156 Loro Piana 156 Louis Vuitton 50, 156 Love Moschino 158 Luciano Barbera 156 Luini 191 Luisa Beccaria 157

M

157 157

M-Missoni 158 M. Bardelli 157 Macelleria Popolare 192 Madonnina (Duomo) 46 Mag Cafè 117, 202 Maliparmi 157 Malo 157 Mandarin Bar & Bistrot 13, 202, 216 Mangiari di Strada 192 Marina Rinaldi 157 Marni 157 Massimo De Carlo Gallery 140 Max Mara 157 Max&Co. 157 Mercato del Duomo 57 Michael Kors 158 Milan Fashion Week 30 Milano Central Station 78 Missoni 158 Miu Miu 158 Moncler 158 Mondadori 177 Monica De Cardenas Gallery 140 Montblanc 158 Moschino 158 MUBA - Milan Children’s Museum 126, 141 MUDEC Museum of Cultures 107, 141 Museo Bagatti Valsecchi 39 234

Nottingham Forest

Museo del Costume, della Moda e dell’Immagine 36 Museo del Duomo 45 Museo del Novecento 11, 43

45, 57, 141 Museo del Risorgimento 61, 142 Museo del Teatro alla Scala 45, 142 Museo Poldi Pezzoli 27, 142 Museum of Ancient Art 98 Museum of Applied Arts 98 Museum of Furniture and Wooden Sculptures 98 Museum of Musical Instruments 98 Mysterious Baths fountain 102, 103

206

O

Octavius - The stage 206 Officina Profumo Santa Maria Novella 175 Officine Panerai 169 Omega 169 Orticola 84 Ospedale Maggiore 126

P

P.a.r.o.s.h. 159 PAC - Pavilion of Contemporary Art 75, 77, 143 Pal Zileri 159 Palazzo Anguissola 57, 139 Palazzo Beltrami 57, 139 Palazzo Brentani 57, 139 Palazzo Castiglioni 84 Palazzo Cicogna Mozzoni 145 Palazzo dell’Arengario 11 Palazzo dell’Arte 102 Palazzo della Ragione 45 Palazzo di Brera 64 Palazzo Dugnani 84, 85 Palazzo Grifoni 159 Palazzo Mezzanotte 57 Palazzo Morando 36 Palazzo Moriggia 61, 142 Palazzo Reale 43, 45, 143 Palazzo Sormani 123 Paolo Moretti Pelle e Pellicce 159 Parco delle Basiliche 118 Parco Sempione 91, 102, 103, 145

N

N’Ombra de Vin 203 National Chamber of Italian Fashion 30 Natural History Museum 75, 77, 84, 142 Navigli 107, 109, 117, 118 Naviglio Grande 107, 109, 117, 118 Naviglio Pavese 107, 109, 117, 118 Naviglio Sunday Market 118 Negozio Tartufi Morra 211 Neil Barrett 159 Nepentha 205 Nilufar Gallery 38, 142 Nobu 39 Nonostante Marras 159 North Sail 159 235

Pasticceria Biffi Milano 195 Pasticceria Cucchi 195 Pasticceria Ernst Knam 198 Pasticceria Marchesi 38, 196 Patrizia Pepe 159 Patricia Viel 11, 13 Paul Smith 159 Pavè 196 Pellini 169 Pellux 159 Philipp Plein 160 Piacenza Cashmere 160 Piaget 169 Piazza Gae Aulenti 61, 63, 70 Piccolo Teatro 11, 61, 207 Piccolo Teatro Grassi 61, 207 Piccolo Teatro Strehler 61, 207 Piccolo Teatro Studio Mariangela Melato 61, 207 Pietà Rondanini 89, 91, 98, 144 Pinacoteca (Brera) 11, 64, 71, 98 Pinacoteca Ambrosiana 43, 45, 144 Pinko 160 Pirelli Hangar Bicocca 144 Pirelli Tower 77 Pisa Orologeria 169 Pisacco 190 Planetarium 77 Poliform 173 Politecnico 11 Pomellato 170 Porsche Design 160 Porselli 166 Porta Comacina 68

Porta Garibaldi 63 Porta Garibaldi station 68 Porta Nuova 11, 63, 68, 70 Porta Romana 123, 125, 132 Porta Ticinese 109, 138 Porta Venezia 77 Portinari chapel 118 Portofino 213 Prada 50, 160 Pratesi 173 Privé Armani 206 Profumeria della Farmacia Centrale 175 Profumeria della Vecchia Milano 175 Profumerie Mazzolari 175 Profumo 175 Pupi Solari 161

Q

Quadrilatero della Moda (Fashion square) 29, 77

R

Radetzky 206 Raffaella Curiel 161 Ratana 186 Red - Feltrinelli 177 Red Valentino 163 Relais San Maurizio 211 René Caovilla 166 Rick Owens 161 Ripa di Porta Ticinese 117

Sawaya & Moroni 173 Science Museum 107, 144 Serapian 162 Sergio Rossi 167 Sermoneta Gloves 38, 162 Sestri Levante 213 Seta 17, 181, 226 Silvano Lattanzi 167 Simonetta Ravizza 162 Siniscalchi Camicie su misura 162 Society Limonta 173 Solar Disc 27 Spa at Mandarin Oriental Milan 225 Spazio - Il Mercato del Duomo 181 Spazio Milano 57 Spazio Rossana Orlandi 102, 103, 173 Spelta Milano 167 Stadio Meazza (San Siro) 11, 138, 144 Stefano Ricci 162 Stella McCartney 163 Stone Island 163 Straf 203 Stuart Weitzman 167 Studio Giangaleazzo Visconti 145 Sutor Mantellassi 167 Synagogue 132

Ristorante La Terrazza del Grand Hotel Tremezzo 209 Ristorante Lucca 186 Ristorante Piazza Duomo 211 Ristorante Solferino 187 Rita & Cocktails 117, 203 Rivolta 166 Rizzoli 50, 176 Roberto Cavalli 161 Roberto Del Carlo 166 Rocket 206 Rodo 161 Roger Vivier 167 Rolex Boutique - Pisa 1940 169 Roman Amphitheater 89 Rossignoli 161 Rotonda della Besana 125, 126, 141 Rovello 18 187 Roy Rogers 161 Rubinacci 161

S

Sabbadini 170 Sahrai 173 Saint Laurent 161 Salone del Mobile 11 Salvatore Ferragamo 162 Samsonite 162 San Marco Market 71 Sant Ambroeus 196 Santa Margherita Ligure 213 Santoni 167 Sartoria A. Caraceni 162 Sartoria Rossi 162

T

Taglio 188 Taschen 177 Tearose 173 237

Torrefazione Moka Hodeidah 198 Tory Burch 163 Trattoria del Nuovo Macello 188 Triennale di Milano 91, 102 Triennale Design Museum 102 Trippa 188 Trussardi 163 Trussardi alla Scala 182 Tumi 163

Teatro alla Scala 11, 52, 57

142, 207 Teatro alla Scala Il Marchesino 182 Teatro Armani 110 Teatro Carcano 207 Teatro Dal Verme 207 Teatro degli Arcimboldi 207 Teatro di Burri 102 Teatro Franco Parenti 207 Teatro Manzoni 207 Teatro Nazionale 207 Teatro Nuovo 207 Terme di Milano 132 Terrazza 12 206 Terrazza Martini 57 Terrazza Triennale Osteria con vista 203 The American Bookstore 177 The Botanical Club 206 The Doping Club at The Yard hotel 206 The Last Supper

by Leonardo da Vinci 91, 94 The Spas 212 Tiffany&Co. 38, 56, 170 Tindaro De Luca 163 Tod’s 167 Tokuyoshi 184 Tom Ford 163 Torre Branca 102, 145 Torre del Filarete 98 Torre Unicredit 70 Torre Velasca 123

U

U Barba 190 Ulrico Hoepli Planetarium 75, 84 Uman 163 University of Milan La Statale 64, 123, 145 Urbani Tartufi 198

V

Val d’Aosta 212 Valentino 163 Valextra 164 Valli Tessuti 173 Valtellina 212 Van Cleef & Arpels 170 Vasiliki Kouzina 185 Velodromo 133 Venini 173 Vergelio 167 Versace 50, 164 Versace Collection 164 Vertical Forest 70 Vertu 164 Vetrerie di Empoli 173 238

Vhernier 170 Via della Madonnina 70 Via della Spiga 38 Via Monte Napoleone 27, 29 Vilebrequin 164 Villa Belgiojoso Bonaparte 75 Villa Invernizzi 84 Villa Milano 170 Villa Necchi Campiglio 82 Villa Reale 75, 77, 139, 143 Vionnet 164 Vun 182

W

Wait and See 164 Wicky’s 185 WP Store 164

Z

Zadig & Voltaire 164 Zelig 207 Zero 185 Zona Tortona 109

239

With thanks to the management Mandarin Oriental Milan

of

Mandarin Oriental Milan Via Andegari, 9 - Milan Ph. +39 02 87318888 mandarinoriental.com

Editor in Chief Matteo Parigi Bini Editorial Director Donatella Brun Consulting Editor Francesca Stancanelli Publisher Gruppo Editoriale Alex Vittorio Lana, Matteo Parigi Bini Authors Teresa Favi, Francesca Lombardi Editorial Staff Sabrina Bozzoni, Virginia Mammoli, Mila Montagni, Pamela Pettinelli Photos Dario Garofalo Graphic design Martina Alessi, Chiara Bini Translations The Florentine @ Via Piero della Francesca, 2 - Prato gruppoeditoriale.com @All rights reserved

The authors and Gruppo Editoriale have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book. We make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content.

Printed in October 2016 In partnership with