Groove Korea 2016 October 10th anniversary

Editorial Vol. 120 October 2016

Editorial October 2016

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www.groovekorea.com October 2016

In the summer of 1986, I fell in love with Bon Jovi’s new album ‘Slippery When Wet’ at the tender age of twelve and it still remains to be one of my favorites.

I used to listen to the cassette tape over and over again on my Walkman and in my dad’s car. One day, I was listening to the tape and skipped a few tracks to jump to ‘I’d die for you’. My dad, who was driving, asked me why I was skipping the tracks. I replied, ‘the next song is boring’. The next thing he said has been engraved in my brain ever since and has stuck to me as one of my life principles. ‘If you like this artist so much, why don’t you appreciate all of their work? I am sure what you find boring is still a result of all of his hard work’. Ever since then, I have never skipped any tracks when listening to an artist’s album. Compilation albums are an exemption to this rule of course.

But I have learned to appreciate other’s work and to see beyond what’s seen on the surface.

What you read in this publication are

the results produced by the great effort and time put into it by our team. They are all largely voluntary-based and put hours and hours into writing a story.

Some put in more than forty hours a week because s/he believes that such information will be enjoyed by our readers. You might find some articles are relatively more interesting than others as they are more suited to your personal tastes and some are not. Nevertheless, all these efforts together make each issue.

Our team has been working really hard to produce each issue for ten years, month after month. A ten-year old child might already be starting to learn about division in the hundreds and perhaps vaguely understand what Bon Jovi is singing about. A ten-year Korean student would probably be studying differential and integral calculus. Whatever the equation, we give our most earnest and heartfelt applause when watching ten-year olds sing or play. We, all grownups in our 20s, 30s or 40s, are undergo-

ing trial and error and know we are still in the learning process. In the magazine business, it’s the same, as we vaguely consider ourselves to be okay in what we do. But here we are, the ten-year old in us on every page you turn. We expect, at best, your warm encouragement and appreciation for having served our community for the last ten years.

I do not intend to convince you that you should be impressed or be forced to read all of the articles in the publication. But what I do ask, humbly, is for you to consider for a second, that what you have in front of you are the results produced by a hard working team.

In order not to jinx our ten years anniversary, we’ve tried to keep it calm and do our thing - as usually and as naturally possible. We will probably make a fuss when we hit 20 though…

So, although it may look like a normal Groove Korea month, please read this issue with a little more attention to each of our articles.

Keep calm and enjoy reading.

www.facebook.com/globalseoulmates October 14 - 30,000 October 28 - 35,000 At the Door - 40,000

What's in this issue Vol. 120 October 2016

04

EDITORIAL

10

Key People Meet Groove’s editorial team and a few of our talented contributors

14

What's on Festivals, concerts, happy hours, networking and events for every day of the month

18-22

National News national news with Korea JoongAng Daily

44

Exhibiting a trio of Team Lab worlds

sponsors 16

Moon Won Clinic This month's hairy installment

24

2016 Hae Bang Chon Fall Music Festival The second fest falls into HBC

28

Eastern Art Union An unusual & fascinating art fair

6

www.groovekorea.com October 2016

community

36

Reaching Out How LIV can make a difference

38

A Wheel Ahead Seoul, Take The Wheel travels around the city

Entertainment 40

Three By… Looking at controversy on the big screen

42

30

Dream Café Taking your dreams one click closer

Busan Film Festival Reveals Lineup Busan's film extravaganza is back

32

43

An inside look at Seoul Fashion Week Rubbing shoulders with the capital's fashion kings and queens

34

Defense in The Real World Self-defense in the Real World

No Couches in korea A look into the selfpublishing literature world

44

Team Lab World Finally Comes to Seoul Exhibiting a trio of Team Lab worlds

48

A primer on the Korean metal scene Delving into lesser known music genres...

p32

Rubbing shoulders with the capital's fashion kings and queens

What's in this issue Vol. 120 October 2016

68

Camping, Festivals, Jazz and more

Anniversary Special 50

Groove Korea: The Story Of A Decade Turning Ten: A Sobering Experience?

54

Laughing, Living& Learning Ten years in the city

56

Happy Hagwon-Versary!

An educational anniversary

www.groovekorea.com October 2016

Shocking Stout, Shocking Value A surefire dark beer for cooler weather.

64

Red Bull Step Aside, Snoopy Milk Is Here!

Sugary caffeinated sins from your local mart.

64

66

Food & Drink 58

67

60

Chef Bites Picking the brains of your favorite food folks

62

In the Mood for Bak Kut Teh Authentic Malaysian for pork fiends.

Travel 68

An island getaway in the fall Camping, Festivals, Jazz and more

70

Busan Film Festival Returns A look at the upcoming BIFF Festival

Restaurant Buzz Comings and goings from Seoul's restaurant scene Makgeolli Bar Evolution The evolution of makgeolli from barns to bars.

Learn Your Peruvian Basics at Tigre Cevicheria Peruvian basics in an upmarket bistro

8

63

Samarkand's golubtsy Uncovering Seoul's most irresistible destination dishes.

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Turning Ten: A Sobering Experience?

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Key people Vol. 120 October 2016

Michael O'Dwyer Kevin M Maher Kevin M Maher is currently teaching in Macau, but first moved to Asia in 1996. His book, No Couches in Korea, originated from that time, as well as drawing from his experience of living in Seoul from 2000-2008. His free time is devoted to following through on obsessions to travel, read, and write…as well as spending time with his kids.

Michael O'Dwyer is an English teacher and documentary/music photographer based in Taebaek, Korea. He is fascinated by people and their behavior and seek to capture stories and drama that occur everyday, across a range of sub-cultures from musicians and metal heads to traditional shamans. Originally from Houston, Texas; Michael has developed an addiction to traveling, living, and making personal connections in different countries.

Rob Shelley Rob Shelley is from Newfoundland, Canada but has found a home in Korea teaching Leadership to kindergarten children and writing for CraftBeerAsia. com

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www.groovekorea.com October 2016

Julia Mellor

Samuel R. Mendez

Hannah Green

Samuel is an independent filmmaker and travel enthusiast from the US. His work typically covers big cities, and his most recent short film is a stop-motion animated tour of Busan.

He recently began collaborating with Muui, a Korean nonprofit, to make international travel videos with a focus on wheelchair accessibility

Hannah Green is a portrait, food, and travel photographer from Phoenix, Arizona. She moved to Seoul to teach and fund her travels, and is now immersed in a year of traveling though the US, Europe, and hopefully back through Asia. When not shooting (or working) she enjoys rock climbing and exploring. You can follow her Instagram @hannahgreenphoto.

Julia is a Korean traditional alcohol specialist who has been studying brewing techniques, tasting, history and everything there is to know about the modern makgeolli industry since 2012. She founded 'Makgeolli Mamas & Papas Korea' as a means to communicate the intricacies of Korean alcohol to a wider audience. MMPK offers tasting tour experiences, brewery tours, brewing education, and industry consulting for anyone looking to expand and deepen their knowledge of makgeolli, soju and all the other highlights of Korean alcohol.

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Contact info (010) 5348-0212 / (02) 6925-5057 Advertising ads@groovekorea.com General inquiries info@groovekorea.com EDITORIAL DireCtor

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• Insurance documents for claims

gil Coombe, rob Shelley W RITERS & CONTRIBUTORS

Hannah Green, Dianne Pineda, Hallie Bradley Liam Ring, Naheen Madarbakus-Ring, Sam Mendez Michael O'Dwyer, Simon McEnteggart, Naomi Blenkinsop, Kevin Maher, Steve Lemlek, Emma Kalka, Julia Mellor Sean Choi, Lance Reegan-Diehl, Jordan Redmond Yoo Jin Oh, Jason Newland, Julia Mellor, Rob Shelley Jarasaum Jazz Festival, MMPK, BIFF, Team Lab, Han Cinema LIV Village, Yelim Lee, Clayton Jones, Natalie Rap Kaegan Sanchez, Tim Crawford, Deokhwa Kim, Robert Evans ART & DESIGN

ART DIRECTOR A-GRID WORK design@a-grid.net

Dr. Keith Kim & Dr. Young Lee U.S. licensed dentist and periodontist (Diplomate, American Board of Periodontology)

English-speaking doctors and staff

MARKETING & ADMINISTRATION

CFO steve seung-jin lee ACCOUNTING su-jin PARK W EB & MOBILE

himes design www.himesdesign.com finch professtional services www.finchproservices.com PUBLISHER

92-12 5F, Banpo 4-dong (Seorae French Village), Seocho-gu, Seoul 02-3482-0028 boston34820028@gmail.com www.e-boston.co.kr Mon - Fri 9:30am-6:30pm / sat 9:30am-2pm

sean choi sean@groovekorea.com

To contribute to Groove Korea, email submissions@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor.

To have Groove Korea delivered to your home or business, email subscribe@groovekorea.com.

To contribute to groovekorea, promote an event or share your opinions, please email naheen@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor.

Sinbanpo Station 4

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The articles are the sole property of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher.

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All rights reserved Groove Korea Magazine 2016

What's on MON

WED

TUE

Jarasum International Jazz Festival Oct 1-3 | Caetano Veloso, Oregon, Lucky Peterson and many

5

Eun-suk Cheon ‘a flower and a spider’ (oil on canvas)

Suwon Hwaseong For Oct

Union Art Fair 2016 Oct 5-9 | Blue Square in Hannam-dong, Seoul | 74 artists & 400 artworks

13

Opera ‘Tosca’ Oct 13-16 | Seoul Arts Center

Jinju Namgang Yudeung Festival Oct 1-16

18

14

www.groovekorea.com October 2016

Corinne Bailey live in Seoul Oct 18 | Olympic Park

Korean Air Box Project 2016 Yangjiang Group: Galligraphy Is the Way to Communicate with the most Primal Power Oct 18 | MMCA Seoul

Baeksajang Prawn Festival Oct 9-Nov 1 | Anmyeondo, Taean-gun

Universal Ballet – Kenneth MacMilan’s Romeo and Juliet Oct 22-29 | Seoul Arts Center

CALENDAR October 2016 FRI

THU

SUN

SAT

2

Musical ‘Notre Dame de Paris’ Oct 1-3 | Seoul Arts Center

Jose Placido Domingo concert in Seoul Oct 2 | Jamsil Stadium

8

rtress Cultural Festival 7-9

Seoul Int’l Fireworks Festival Yeouido Han River park

Jarasum Makeolli Festival Oct 7-9

‘Voyage to Jarasum’ Jazz Festival Oct 15-16

22

Busan Fireworks Festival Gwanganri beach

Global Seoul Mates’ 2016 Haunted Factory Party Kunsthalle in Nonhyeon-dong, Seoul

15

Iksan Gukhwa (Chrysanthemum) Festival Oct 28-Nov 6 / Iksan, Jeollabuk-do

www.groovekorea.com October 2016

29

Stopping Autumn Hair Loss

Are you ready? For a cold autumn to winter season Story and Photos by Lee Moon Won Clinic

J

ust as the clusters of gingko and persimmon ripen on the autumn trees outside, our bodies also experience physical maturation throughout the year. While some of our bodily changes occur subtly and are barely noticeable, there are others that are easy to observe, with the most significant being hair loss. At Lee Moon Won clinic, we notice an increase in the number of new patients during the autumn season who look to us for help.

Like a tree losing its leaves Compared to spring and summer, the fall months cause the average person to lose hair at a rate of about 1.5 times what they might normally expect. Is there a reason why many lose hair in autumn? It’s not unlike the natural phenomenon of trees losing their leaves during the fall; it's just part of a natural process that happens when some living things prepare for winter.

During summer and spring, the abundance of sunlight and water make it possible for leaves to grow. During the autumn season, however, essential minerals get redirected from the leaves to the branches, trunk, and roots, which need extra nourishment to withstand the winter. As a result of this shift the leaves dry out, change color, and fall from the tree.

The human body can be said to undergo a similar process. The body draws excess energy from the skin, hair, nails, and other nonessential body parts, and reorganizes it into fat reserves, which will be used during the colder months. For this reason, many people find that they gain weight more easily during autumn, as well as suffering drier skin and extra hair loss. When it comes to adapting the human body for winter survival there are also other changes — namely, those connected to male hormones — that increase the likelihood of excess hair loss during the fall months. So what can you do to prevent this seasonal hair loss?

Stopping autumn hair loss In Korean traditional medicine, hair loss problems are often attributed to the patient having weak lung or heart function. In order to improve the activity of these body parts, we need to support our overall immune system. Fortunately, practitioners of Korean medicine, like the Lee Moon Won clinic, can prescribe appropriate treatments that will improve your overall condition and fix hair loss problems. Beyond this, as far as personal care goes, it is strongly recommended that patients make sure they're getting enough sleep every night, as well as maintaining a diet with lots of fresh fruit and vegetables. But there is more you can do. The Korean medicine prescribed by our clinic is made using Korean organic herbs, is easy and safe to use, and has an effect that can be seen throughout the entire body. If you are serious about preventing hair loss, our medicine can help. It is a largely accepted fact that, at the beginning of autumn, most people will experience some degree of increased of hair loss. However, if one's average amount of lost hair is more than 1.5 times what one might typically experience, it is strongly recommended to take action as soon as possible to help prevent one's present condition from worsening.

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www.eng.leemoonwon.com

Nati onal News

In association with October 2016 / www.koreajoongangdaily.com All stories are culled with consent from Korea JoongAng Daily’s website and edited by Groove Korea for length and clarity.

The opinions expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. — Ed.

Korean woman held in Mexico may be innocent

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ccused of running a prostitution ring, a 38-year Korean woman named Yang Hyun-jung has been held in a Mexican prison for over eight months, but growing evidence suggests she has been wrongfully accused and that the Korean diplomatic office there has failed to protect her.

Yang, a designer for pet clothing, was apprehended by Mexican police on Jan. 15 at a karaoke bar in Mexico City. The bar was owned by the fiancé of her younger sister, with whom she went to Mexico two months earlier.

Yang and her younger sister went to the North American country in November to see the sister’s fiancé, a man surnamed Lee, and to travel. Yang was helping Lee by greeting customers at the counter.

On the night of Jan. 15, local law enforcement officials stormed the bar with pistols and took custody of five Korean female karaoke workers, three Mexicans and two Korean customers. Police said they were tipped off that Yang was running a prostitution ring by abducting Korean workers there and forcing them to provide sexual services.

But testimonies emerged later from Korean workers who were released from questioning that the Mexican investigators were very coercive during their probe, depriving them

of sleep, water and food. One of the released workers reportedly said that she was forced to sign a statement that said she was made to sell her body and was held by Yang.

Following their release, the five Korean workers filed a petition to the Korean government, saying they had refused to sign the statement for over 30 hours because facts in it were not true, but that a Korean consul had told them to sign the paper, saying Mexican prosecutors had informed him that they would correct the facts in a second statement and release Yang.

But the workers’ statement, which they now disavow, was sent to a court and Yang was transferred to a prison in Mexico City.

As things unfolded, the consul lodged a complaint with the Mexican government, protesting that they had not kept their word.

In an interview with a local newspaper, published by the Korean community there, the diplomat said his office would clear Yang of all charges and win her release, vowing to protect Korean citizens.

But as criticism grew over his office’s failure to address the issue properly, he suddenly changed his position, saying Yang committed a grave crime by exploiting karaoke workers without paying them.

Hong Geum-pyo, a businessman there who is running a campaign to win Yang’s

release, said she would not have been put in prison had Korean diplomats thoroughly investigated the case in the first place.

In a text message sent to the JoongAng Ilbo, the Korean consul denied he had pressured Korean workers to sign the statement, but that he had merely relayed a message from Mexican prosecutors that Yang would be released once they approved the statement.

“What is important now is that we do our best to make Yang walk out of prison as early as possible,” the consul wrote in the message.

Yang is fighting a legal battle on the grounds that she has been wrongfully imprisoned and that investigation procedures

by Mexican prosecutors were not in accordance with due process. Much of the evidence submitted by local prosecutors is said to have been rejected by a local court. The JoongAng Ilbo discovered that a woman who the Mexican prosecutors said had tipped them off about the case does not in fact exist.

“I miss my mom as Chuseok holiday is now approaching,” Yang told the JoongAng Ilbo in a phone interview from jail. “I want to go home with truth being told.”

A parliamentary committee of foreign affairs has decided to look into the case during its audit on diplomatic offices on the American continent scheduled later in September.

Chinese tourist

fatally stabs woman on Jeju

A

61-year-old woman stabbed by a Chinese tourist while praying at a cathedral on Jeju Island was pronounced dead at a local hospital on September 18, bringing a morbid end to a puzzling assault - the latest in a string

by Chinese visitors to the island.

The woman, who was surnamed Kim, was praying alone in a cathedral when a 50-year-old Chinese tourist surnamed Chen stabbed her four times in her chest and stomach and fled from the scene. Kim called the local fire department and said, “Someone stabbed me and I am bleeding.” Kim was treated at a local hospital but was pronounced dead on the next day.

Chen was apprehended in Seogwipo, Jeju Island, on September 17, seven hours after he allegedly committed the crime.

Authorities used CCTV camera footage to narrow down the suspects.

“I stabbed her because the woman reminded me of my two exwives, who left me for other men,” Chen reportedly told police.

Chen landed on the island September 13 and was supposed to stay through September 22. He bought the knife on the island, according to authorities, and reportedly entered the cathedral two to three times before he stabbed Kim.Authorities suspect Chen may have planned the stabbing in advance.

“It may seem like an impulsive crime from Chen’s testimony,” said Park Gi-nam, head of the Jeju Seobu Police Precinct, “but the fact that he bought the weapon after he arrived and went to the cathedral two or three times before he committed the crime are signs that Chen may have planned the assault.”

Authorities are considering charging Chen with murder or attempted murder. A series of violent crimes by Chinese tourists has alarmed Jeju. According to the Jeju Provincial Police Agency, 347 foreigners committed crimes in Jeju Island from January to July, and 69 percent, or 240, were Chinese. Only a week ago, eight Chinese tourists assaulted a Korean restaurant owner when she told them they couldn’t drink alcohol purchased outside the restaurant.

“Do the Chinese think that Jeju Island is a hunting ground?” said one local on Twitter.

“Korea should strictly restrict entrance of Chinese tourists since they do not seem to know what’s legal or not.”

Yeoksam business hotel

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Teheranro 37-gil 13-8 Gangnam-gu, Seoul Yeoksam subway station (Line no. 2) Exit #8 (150m) Gangnam stn Police officers take a Chinese man, suspected of fatally stabbing a 61-year-old Korean woman who was praying at a local church, to the Jeju Seobu Police Station on the country's resort island of Jeju

Yeoksam stn

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Samsung stn (COEX)

Nati onal News

Koreans get used to saying,

‘Table for one!’

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www.groovekorea.com October 2016

W

hen Jeong Yoo-jin flew to Osaka in July for a vacation, the office worker didn’t bother to arrange international roaming for her phone.

For an entire week, the 34-year-old traveled off the grid, completely separated from her job in Korea, unable to be reached by colleagues. The risk was high, she says, but worth it in the end - to be truly alone.

“When I first arrived in Japan, I was jittery for a whole day,” confides Jeong. “I wondered whether anyone was trying to contact me.

From the second day, I got used to it and gradually felt at ease being left alone.”

According to data from Hana Tour, a local tour agency, Jeong represents a trend that’s rapidly growing among Korean travelers.

Last year, one out of nearly every 10 people (8.9 percent) who used the company’s services, or 206,000 clients, traveled solo, a sharp increase from the 78,000 people (4.3 percent) who did so in 2013.

“People who are hesitant about traveling alone give it a shot one day,” says Jeong Kiyoon, head PR officer of Hana Tour, “and learn that it’s actually quite nice.”

Local theater chains are experiencing a similar phenomenon.

Last year, 10.7 percent of all moviegoers at CGV theaters went alone, up from 8.1 percent in 2013. From January to June, 13.3 percent of moviegoers went by themselves. At Megabox theaters, 15.2 percent of purchases were single tickets.

Data from Statistics Korea indicates that over half (56.8 percent) of all Koreans in 2014 spent their leisure time alone, up from 44.1 percent in 2007.

“I have loners who come to read, stare at the wall or ask my opinion on whatever personal issue they have,” says Jeong In-seong, owner of Chaeg Bar in Seodaemun District, western Seoul, a bar that also has books for people to read. Three out of every five people who visit his bar comes alone.

“Whatever age they are, everyone just looks really depressed,” says Jeong.

In a country where connections based on school ties, kinship and hometowns have played a key role in how society is structured,

Many will eat and drink alone. the solo phenomenon hints that Korea is beLee Na-mi, who heads CounselingNet, a coming more individualistic, says Jeon Sangpsychological analysis center, said the new in, a sociology professor at Seoul National law will be especially powerful around holiUniversity. days, when everyone used to fret over the exChoi Jong-ryeol, a sociology professor at pensive gift sets they were compelled to give Keimyung University in Daegu, claims the others. transition is developing rapidly and that more An official from Samsung Group said people are trying to detach themselves from the conglomerate was discussing internally others. whether to sharply lower the budget for holiSome find it liberating. A 44-year-old day gifts distributed to their business partners working mom with three kids, Ms. Kim says and clients, or ditch the gift-sharing culture she’s recently picked up a new daily ritual. entirely.

Every morning as she leaves her house With golfing no longer allowed to be writand gets inside her car, the lawyer spends 10 ten off as a corporate expense, an official at minutes just staring ahead.

Hanjin Group expects more businessmen to “I just hold on to the steering wheel and sit there,” she explains. “Without that short mo- stay home over the weekends and spend qualment to myself, I probably would feel suffocat- ity time with their families.

A spokesman for LG Group agreed, but ed throughout the entire day.”

After work, Kim is learning scuba diving, says he worries about not being able to exwhich gives her a world that is “entirely isolat- change ideas with fellow businessmen in the same industry. ed.” It’s there that she’s able to go wherever her thoughts bring her.

Pundits think the anTop A man receives a meal at a restaurant in Changcheon-dong, Seodaemun District, tigraft act, set to be implewestern Seoul, which is specialized in serving meals for one person. Bottom A woman sings alone in a noraebang (singing room) in the Hongdae area of western Seoul, which mented on Sept. 28, will add caters to customers who are on their own. [Kwon hyuj-jae, Kim seong-ryong] momentum to the trend.

The Improper Solicitation and Graft Act, dubbed the Kim Young-ran Law, will prohibit public officials, teachers and journalists from being treated to meals costing more than 30,000 won ($27) or accepting gifts price above 50,000 won. Roughly 40,000 organizations will come under its purview.

“The common sense notion that you have to be loyal [to your clients] and feed them well will become ‘uncommon sense,’” said Kim Moon-jo, a sociology professor at Korea University. “People will now eat and drink simply during lunch hours, as oppose to the past when had heavy meals together.”

T

he number of people who applied for this year’s College Scholastic Ability Test (CSAT), the chief barometer for college admissions in Korea, shrunk for the sixth time in a row, evidently reflecting the country’s declining population growth rate. A total of 605,988 people have applied for the upcoming CSAT, down 25,199 people, or 4 percent, from last year, according to the Korea Institute for Curriculum and Evaluation, which operates the annual exam. This year’s test will be held on Nov. 17.

In the 23-year history of the CSAT, the latest number of applications is one of the lowest to date, and it marks a continuous decline since 2010, when 712,227 people signed up.

Of the 605,988 people who will take the test in two months, 75.8 percent are high school

seniors and 22.3 percent are graduates. The remaining 1.9 percent passed Korea’s general equivalency diploma (GED). In Korea, many students who fail to gain admission to their dream college retake the CSAT, which is why high school graduates often fill up a large portion of the test-taking body.

According to estimates from the Ministry of Education, the number of CSAT applicants will drop even more in the coming years. In 2017, approximately 529,973 people will take the test. In 2020, about 483,679 people will do so. Even worse, the sheer number of CSAT applicants is estimated to be smaller than the total number of students needed for quotas in local universities starting next year, which means that the lowest-ranked schools won’t be able to meet

Nati onal News

Fewer students apply for college entrance exam

their student enrollment quotas.

For years, the Education Ministry has been trying to solve this problem by annually identifying the most underperforming universities and cutting off their government subsidies. The crackdown has been aimed at restructuring and reducing the country’s postsecondary education system.

This year’s list, announced earlier this month, included the following schools: Gyeongju University in North Gyeongsang; Geumgang University in Nonsan, South Chungcheong; Sangji University in Wonju, Gangwon; Sehan University in Yeongam County, South Jeolla; Suwon University in Gyeonggi; Cheongju University in North Chungcheong; KC University in Seoul; Hanyoung Theological University in Seoul; Howon University in Gunsan, North Jeolla; Gimcheon University in North Gyeongsang; Daegu University of Foreign Studies; Luther University in Yonggin, Gyeonggi; Seonam University in Namwon, North Jeolla; Seoul Christian University; Shingyeong University in Hwaseong, Gyeonggi; and Hanzhong University in Donghae, Gangwon.

Nati onal News

North executes

two top officials

Kim Jong-un made the order, source says; anti-aircraft guns used

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orth Korean leader Kim Jongun executed two top officials publicly, killing them with an anti-aircraft gun, a source with special knowledge of North Korea told the JoongAng Ilbo.

One was apparently killed for nodding off during a meeting with Kim. The executed men were Hwang Min, former agricultural minister, and Ri Yong-jin, who had a senior position in the education ministry, possibly as high as minister level.

“I have the information that ministers of agriculture and education were publicly executed on a special order from Kim Jong-un,” said the source. The executions took place at a military academy in Pyongyang, he said, and an anti-aircraft gun was used.

If the report is true, it would mark the first execution ordered by Kim Jong-un from outside the Workers’ Party and military.

The report may be interpreted as a new reign of terror in North Korea prompted by a series of defections by senior officials that has rekindled talk of instability and disunity among the North Korean elite.

“One of the executed is Hwang Min, a former agricultural minister,” said the source. “I understand he was executed because policy proposals he had pushed for were seen as a direct challenge to the Kim Jong-un leadership."

The source did not elaborate what the proposal was or why it was seen as a challenge to the leader. Hwang was replaced by Ko In-ho at a meeting of the rubber-stamp parliament in late June before apparently being executed.

The other ill-fated official was Ri Yong-jin, who the source said was a ministerial-level official at the education ministry.

“He incurred the wrath of Kim after he dozed off during a meeting presided over by Kim. He was arrested on site and intensively questioned by the state security ministry. He was executed after other charges such as corruption were found during the probe.”

In North Korea, there are two ministries related to education: the Ministry of Common Education and Ministry of Higher Education, which are headed by Kim Sung-du and Thae Hyong-chol, who is also president of Kim Il Sung University. A government official said the ill-fated Ri could have had a minister-level position at one of the two.

Since taking over after his father’s death in late 2011, Kim has carried out a series of executions of party and military officials. The most high-profile was the December 2013 execution of Jang Song-thaek, Kim’s uncle and former political guardian. Another high-profile execution was that of Hyon Yong-chol, North Korea’s former defense chief, who South Korean intelligence said was executed by firing squad in April 2015 on charges of dozing off during a meeting attended by the supreme leader.

If the report of the two executions is true, they may have been related to a series of defections by senior North Korean officials with privileged backgrounds.

The recent defection of Thae Yong-ho, formerly No. 2 at the North Korean embassy in London, sparked speculation that there is disunity among the North’s inner circle and a

decline in faith in the Kim regime. The young leader could have felt the need to impose a sense of terror among elite officials to reinforce their loyalty.

“The recent series of defections by top officials is less a looming sign of the collapse of the North Korean regime than the outcome of the North’s wrong policies for its overseas officials,” said Kim Byung-yeon, professor of economics at Seoul National University, who specializes in the North Korean economy.

North Korean officials overseas are said to be under growing pressure to find source of hard currency to be transferred to Pyongyang after sanctions were slapped on the country in March, following its fourth nuclear test in January and a long-range missile launch the following month. Such pressure could have driven elite officials like Thae to opt to defect to the South rather than face dire consequences back home after failing to find the motherland extra sources of foreign exchange, observers say.

President Park Geun-hye said that her government would continue to “send a message of hope for North Korean people for the life of liberty and dignity.”

At a meeting with senior secretaries at the Blue House, Park said, “Improving human rights conditions in North Korea is a humanitarian issue that cannot be put off any more and a cornerstone to bringing about an era of peace on the Korean Peninsula.”

She called on the military to maintain readiness so the North Korean regime can be brought to “self-destruction” should it choose to provoke the South violently. .

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2016 Hae Bang Chon Fall Music Festival

Half Passed 11

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Story and Photos by Lance Reegan-Diehl

musicians and venues, meaning the size and ae Bang Chon Fall Music Fesscope of the festival has fluctuated through tival takes place on Friday and the years. This year’s festival venues include Saturday, October 21 and 22 as V-Lounge, Phillies, Bedrock, Alley Bunker, the second installment of the The Cave, Bonny’s Pizza Pub, Hair of the Dog, 11th HBC Fest centers on the theme of “Half Al Matto Terrace, Camarata Music, Genie pAssed 11”. A great line-up takes the festival Pub, HQ, Thunderhorse Tavern, The Workinto a new decade of independent music and shop, and Hidden Cellar. Hidden Cellar also self-promoted artists as the definitive expat hosts an open stage on October 23 at 7pm as and international music fest in Korea, is only part of HBC fest. made possible by local business owners who The festival begins on Thursday, October give independent artists a place to play and 20 with the infamous BAD HORSIE night DEELEEBOB Music. Made up entirely of inperformed by festival guest musician’s and dependent music artists and performers from the fest organizers. Friday October 21 will see around the country, the region and internafour to five venues (to be confirmed) host a tionally, come and enjoy the show. selection of bands from 9pm unThe festival began in 2006 til midnight, but the majority of as a showcase for expat musiperformances take place on Satcians in the city who wanted to Finding meaning urday October 22 where 90 perperform to larger crowds. The in life, personal formances over an 8-hour period Fest was originally started by wellbeing, from 3pm to 1am is expected at and happiness Lance Reegan-Diehl and James are important 14 venues. Street-level acoustic Gaynor, and at that time the elements of an performers will entertain the DEELEEBOB Music Company education for us. busy bars, and Phillies Pub, Cawas born, which Reegan-Diemarata Music, Bedrock, Thunhl currently owns. Gaynor has derhorse Tavern, and V-Lounge, since found a home in Japan and with their basement locations preventing the Australia with his wife and children, but Reeraucous sets from potentially disturbing those gan-Diehl continues to be the central organizclose by, will host a plethora of rock, alt-rock, er of the festival. funk, blues, and R&B acts. On Sunday OctoHBC has one main street where the acber 23, the Hidden Cellar has ongoing acoustic tion happens and is very famous as a local open-stage performances. expat hangout. The Hae Bang Chon Festival Joining a host of local bands this time has helped make the entire area blossom into around, Kimchi Cowboys, Wooden Lucy, and a bubbly, busy place for all kinds of businessOne Way Out and the Fishin’ Girls will be stepes to open as more people find it an attractive ping away from their regular Hongdae joints to neighborhood to live in or visit. The festival perform at HBC Fest weekend. Band Minha has always adapted to the demands of both

with Kim Minsoo also make a return to the stage with his very energetic live stage presence. Some special international guests will also be appearing and Cozy Performance, who are new to Seoul, will bring a mix of music performance, speed painting, and dance to the HBC stage. Kenji Onizuka also returns once again this fall to perform solo and with the L.R.D. Band, in a stopover on his way to the Music China event the following week in Shanghai.

Keep the music and the party inside the bars. The police are here to help people move about and the traffic flowing. This year, venue hosts will combine efforts with volunteer support to create a tented and taped off section along one side of the street in front of Bonny’s Pizza up to Bedrock in order to provide a walking path for patrons and to separate the traffic from the festival goers.

The HBC Festival is a DEELEEBOB Music Production, with Lance Reegan-Diehl being the central point between artists, venues and business owners. Music sponsors include Sound Drive Amplifiers, Swing Guitars, Graphtech Guitar Parts, Olympia Strings and Straps, along with all participating business owners.

When October 20, 2016 – 9pm-11pm Thunderhorse Tavern BAD HORSIE opening show.

October 21, 2016 – 9pm-12am October 22, 2016 – 3pm- 1am at 14+ venues October 23, 2016 – Hidden Cellar (7pm) ADD DEELEEBOB Music - HBC Festival, 47-B1, Sinheung-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea tel 070 7538 4716 EMAIL sales@deeleebob.com website www.hbcfest.com

ARTISTS PERFORMING THIS YEAR AT THE FALL FESTIVAL 2016 Bands Grand Soul Central MLC Soul City Park's Blues Band Bluetooth Blues Band Kimchi Cowboys Band Minha Cicada State Mad Dogs Saure Gurken Fishin’ Girls Aircraft of The Month Lance Reegan-Diehl band w/ Kenji Onizuka Disorder – Metal Wooden Lucy Basteo Diamond Randy Reno Reasco Pinokio The Bottles New Drunks Hollow Home Judonomi Wubblechap

VENUES FOR HBC FESTIVAL Hair of the Dog, Al Matto Terrace, Camarata Studio, Genie Pub, Bedrock, Phillies Pub, Phillies Basement, V-Lounge, The Cave, Bonnys Pizza, HQ, Alley Bunker, The Workshop, Hidden Cellar, Thunderhorse Tavern Supporting venues Casablanca Sandwiches Great food, great hosts, always supportive of the fest. And the best sandwiches in HBC. Burgermine Gourmet burgers and all you can eat specials.

Jacoby's Burgers Classy, handmade burgers. Jacoby's has supported the fest since it's opening in 2008.

Al Matto Food cooked in a real Dutch oven. Thin crust pizza and salads are their specialty. The owner has supported the fest since 2012 and owns live stage 'Puerto'.

Boogie Woogie In Kyunglidan. They also run club FF in Hongdae.

Acoustic Kenji Onizuka Geoff Griffin Tim Gilmour Highway 9 Old Money Green Mimi Roh Maggie Crossett ZBEAR Grey Watson Matthew Grolemund Jordan Stewart One Way Out Brett Elliot Myron Brown Ponamu A Band Has No Name Scott Hildebrand Michael Burkhardt T.C. Costello Seth Mountain Lee Piscioneri The Pirate Queen Marie Conniffe Cozy Performance

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Eastern Art Union An unusual & fascinating art fair Story and Photos by Courtesy of Eastern Art Union

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2 3

1 Sun Choi 204x140cm acrylic on canvas 2016 2 Eun-Suk Cheon 162.2x130.3 oil on canva, 2016 3 Hyung-Geun Park Untitled-1 Red hole 75x100cm C print, 2004

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n unusual and fascinating art marketplace that resembles an artist’s studio is to be held. From Oct. 5-9, Eastern Art Union, which is a group of artists, will hold 『Union Art Fair 2016』- Welcome to Studio at Complex Culture Space ‘NEMO’ in Blue Square in Hannam-dong, Seoul.

Union Art Fair, which is to be held for the first time this year, adopted the theme of ‘inviting visitors to an artist’s studio’ to create a studio-like environment. Some of the artists will be working on site in order to add a realistic vibe to the conventional art fair. In addition, Artist Flea Market will be held on Oct. 8 and 9 where items in each artist’s studio will be sold in accordance with the theme of the event.

Chief Director Du-su Choi who organized the event said: “This is an art fair driven not by galleries of art societies, but by artists themselves,” and added that it “is a movement driv-

en by artists themselves to carve out a market for artwork through exhibitions as the market has now significantly decreased.”

Unlike with galleries, which serve as a sales agency for artists, the revenue from the sales will go entirely to the artists. Target customers are visitors in their 30s to 40s, with the artwork mostly priced less than 1 million won, and the scope of purchase will be broadened as the artwork will be available at a variety of tantalizing prices.

The artists participating in the event each have a very impressive background -- Sun Choi who won the Songeun Art Award, a major Korean art award; Hyung-geun Park who was a candidate for the Prix Pictet, an international award in photography and sustainability; In-mo Yeo who displays unique artwork that reinterprets familiar landscapes through different perspectives; and Eun-duk Cheon who is widely recognized for her vivid paint-

ings that capture various aspects of life.

There will be varied performances taking place during the event. Starting with artist Hyeun-ho Park’s live painting on the Oct. 5, which is the opening date of the exhibition, different performances will be shown every day during the art fair. Junho Seo, CEO of Space O’NewWall, who served as chief director of the 2016 Art Residency Festival, will be participating as the curator. There will also be the special exhibition “Exit after Passing through a Gift Shop,” which is about mythicized “ready-made (artworks)” reverting back to “lay made,” organized by curator DaeWoong Ahn from Community Space Litmus.

The event is supported by Samsung Electronics Co., Ltd. and Interpark Corporation.

It was selected for the 2016 Support for Artist Marketplace by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism and Korea Arts Management Service.

C O MMU NITY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Dream Café Camera Cafe in Yangpyeong inspires visitors to live their dreams Story and Photos by Hannah Green

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hose who have spent time in Korea and other Asian countries are undoubtedly familiar with cafes of all themes and varieties. Study cafés, animal cafés, dessert cafés, and the pink explosion that is the Hello Kitty Cafe, just to name a few, are all worth visiting and conveniently located within the city. Rarely though does a cafe provide more than just a quirky cup of coffee, flashy interior design, and some great selfies. However, for the more adventurous with some time on their hands, there is a cafe gaining traction not only for its incredible architecture, but also for the owner’s positive intentions to inspire their customers.

Dreamy Camera Cafe (꿈꾸는사진기) is tucked away in the hills of Yangpyeong, about two and a half hours east of Seoul. The owners, Park Sung-Hwan and Kwak Myung-Hee, are both retired army pilots, and opened the cafe

in 2013 after years of discussing concepts and sketching designs for the building itself. Park’s love of photography and vintage camera collection influenced the theme, and Kwak and Park together had the vision to create a place where people can be inspired to follow their dreams and passions.

“In Korea, it’s likely that you’ll face a problem in realizing and shaping your own path,” said Park. “My wife and I wanted to build a place where anyone could share their stories and help out those who are struggling to discover and achieve their dreams.”

The cafe is designed to resemble an old Roloflex twin lens reflex camera, and is backed by lush green mountains and farmland. Next door to the cafe is a quaint little house where the owners live with their young daughter. The whole scene lives up to its dreamy name and seems to be plucked out of a fairy tale. Walk-

C O MMU NITY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Website www.facebook.com/cafedreamy/

www.groovekorea.com October 2016

ter; a well brewed coffee and a snack from their small but carefully made menu. Their signature dish is a warm bowl of crispy ddeok, topped with dried cranberries, nuts, seeds, and a sticky honey glaze. After the long journey to arrive at the remote cafe, some coffee and a meal are needed, and they have not forgotten to provide classic cafe favorites for their customers.

The fast-paced lifestyle in Seoul and other major metropolitan cities can be exciting and invigorating, but can lead to exhaustion and a lack of time to indulge in our passions. Dreamy Camera Cafe is a place to reflect on what is important in life, and to press the pause button on the hustle of city life. The mountain air, rural views, and the larger-than-life camera create a perfect environment to step out of reality, even for a few hours, and let those wild dreams go to the head.

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ing up the short stairs into the eye of the bottom camera lens shows a surprisingly familiar interior of a charming cafe, with light wood furniture and a cluttered homey decor. Walls and shelves are decorated with rows of vintage cameras of all sorts, as well as photographs taken by Park himself in frames. BeAfter the long hind the counter, Kwak greets journey to the her customers with a heartfelt remote cafe, smile as she takes orders, and some coffee and a encourages her customers to meal are needed, read through a small book with and they have the cafe’s history and intenpencils for visitors to creatively not forgotten to tions. She wants everyone who write what they want to do, see, provide classic comes in to have a unique and cafe favorites for accomplish, or anything else to special experience. do with their hopes and dreams their customers.

“Roughly 10 percent underfor the future. Authors of the stand our intention and openly lists can write positive notes to share their stories. We would be thrilled if themselves, draw pictures, share motivational more people could see the cafe the way we see words, or just write down things they want to it - a space for dreamers,” said Kwak. “We ocdo right now; the more personal and unique, casionally worry that we’ve done something the better. Once finished, the owners take two wrong whenever someone stays for 30 minpolaroid pictures of the list, one for the cusutes or less just for a quick look at the camertomer to take with them, and one to add to the as or a quick drink of coffee. It’s not meant to cafe’s wall to give inspiration to others. The function like an average cafe.” polaroid snapshots decorating the walls inThough the owners are interested in clude languages from around the world, with providing great service and enjoyment as a wonderful designs and positive messages of cafe, they are more excited to see what their travel, family, careers, and daring dreams. It’s customers can give to them. The walls are hard not to feel warm and fuzzy just seeing collaged with polaroid photos of visitors and the volume of contributions, even without untourists, and everyone is asked kindly to fill derstanding the many languages. out and decorate a “Bucket List” sheet. Every After filling out their bucket list, customtable is equipped with colored markers and ers can enjoy what they ordered at the coun-

C O MMU NITY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com October 2016 32

An inside look at Seoul Fashion Week Fashion editors, bloggers, and photographers tell all about what it’s really like behind the scenes and in the front row of one of the world’s most anticipated fashion weeks Story by Dianne Pineda Photos by Dianne Pineda and Natalie Rap

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t was the fall of 2013, and I happened to be in Seoul at a very opportune time. I was with a couple of magazine industry friends who went there for Seoul Fashion Week (SFW); though I was an editor at the time, I was more interested in doing touristy stuff, like shopping, and fangirling more than anything else. But on the last day of SFW, my friend gave me a media pass so I decided to watch the shows – and from then on, I was hooked. It had all the elements that I had come to Korea for: pop culture, a oneof-a kind fandom, and of course, fashion.

flection on the designers of South Korea and the way the fashion industry is valued.”

But of course, that isn’t to say that SFW is all about urban street wear, with several veteran and emerging haute couture designers still producing art on the runways.

Inside the Frenzy

What stood out for me from attending the shows over several seasons is the organization’s attention to detail. When the schedule states that it will start at 9am or 10am in the morning, it will start exactly on time, regardless of whether VIPs or celebrities have gotten to their seats or not (they mostly arrive on time Fashion Festival too, though). You’ve probably heard how most Before moving to the iconic Dongdaemun fashion shows don’t start until Anna Wintour Design Plaza, the shows were held in IFC Hall is comfortably seated (well, she is THE Anna in Yeouido. Just outside the venue was almost Wintour after all), but here, lights will certainlike a fashion show in itself, with young stylish ly turn off once it’s time. Marion Seoulites strutting the streets as shares, “I think Seoul Fashion though they were runways and Week has one of the best organenthusiasts clicking away at their Most shows izations in the world, and they cameras. It was a whole subculare only 5 to 15 ture in itself. Naturally, with halminutes apart, and have certainly improved over the years. For overseas press, I lyu sweeping many parts of the if one show gets world, the international press delayed, everything could easily focus on what I had to do, enjoy the runways and was intrigued. Marion Fann, a falls apart. interviews instead of finding it Taiwanese fashion blogger and hard to get to the venue or missreporter for a Swedish-based ing any important events. It’s so much differwebsite, says, “All kinds of people can join ent from the other show’s I’ve ever been to.” the event, and you can see their passion in Sure, there may be some minor logistical fashion.” What probably makes SFW different hiccups, especially when you’re from overseas from other international shows is how the de– missing seats or your name missing from signers take inspiration from everyday people, their list, but most of that can be solved easily incorporating a palpable street vibe in their by the organizers and volunteers. designs. Unlike their Western counterparts, Perhaps adhering to the Korean palli palli who mostly dictate the fashion agenda, here, (“hurry” in English) culture, this sense of time it’s the other way around. Being “commercial” is observed strictly because it will affect the or “wearable,” which can sometimes raise eyewhole flow of the show. Most shows are only brows overseas, is celebrated. Natalie Rap, 5 to 15 minutes apart, and if one show gets fashion photographer and creative director of delayed, everything falls apart. RJ Roque, Interlaced Media agrees: “What you see on the fashion stylist and editor says, “That’s why it’s runway is what people are wearing every day important to dress up fashionably but comon the street and I think that is a positive re-

fortably as well, because you’ll be swept up in the frenzy of it all.”

And once the music starts blaring, the lights come on and the models start prancing down the catwalk, it’s a whole other experience. “The runway is always going to be a magical and favorite place of mine to photograph because you can feel a different vibe when everything comes together,” Natalie shares.

An eye for trends – and stars For me, while it’s interesting to see what happens on the runway, it’s also amazing to see what happens off it. The models are considered rock stars themselves, with many fans rushing to take their photos and get their autographs once they step out of the venue.

But the real star power comes from the K-Pop idols and actors that come to support their favorite designers. I remember getting to interview and take a photo with rapper Beenzino during the 87MM show, seeing SNSD, EXID, Troublemaker, JYJ’s Junsu, and my personal favorite, Lee Hyori at her friends’ Steve J’s and Yoni P’s show. But of course, we’ve all kept our cool whenever we encounter or sit beside celebrities, which, admittedly is kind of hard to do. Marion shares, “Wow, I’ve met too many celebs, and it’s really amazing. All the fashionistas were there: G-Dragon, CL, Gong Hyojin, Kim Woobin, Ahn Jaehyun, Cha Sungwon, and many more.” Likewise, Natalie never missed an opportunity to take photos of stars.

“I have photographed Jessica Alba at Metro City, Sandara Park of 2ne1, Red Velvet, JJCC and Hyolyn of SISTAR, to name a few.”

For his fashion instax blog, RJ has experienced his fair share of chasing celebs. While stars give off that intimidating vibe, they are approachable and very much willing to strike a pose. He shares, “Don’t hesitate to take a photo of celebrities. They’re there to be seen and photographed.”

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

The only downside to the people’s immense love for street wear and trends is that everyone could end up following the same style. Marion says, “With trends, you can see everyone dressing the same, and even some designers were doing similar styles and it could be a bit boring sometimes.” In an interview with Vogue.com, some buyers observed that some Korean designers tend to reference the likes of Vetements, Alexander Wang, Rick Owens, Commes des Garcons, and others more often than they should.

When it comes to innovation, however, SFW designers are certainly not short of it. Last A/W 2016 season, Steve J and Yoni P staged a “see now, buy now” approach where clothes became readily available – so the trends can be enjoyed immediately. It follows the commercial movement from other parts of the world and it’s changing how fashion trickles down to consumers. We will definitely see fabulous designs from prominent names such as Beyond Closet, Push Button, Cres E.Dim, General Idea, and Resurrection, to name a few. Emerging young designers are also on the rise. Fashion is most definitely alive and kicking on this side of the world, but what’s great about it is how inclusive it is. You don’t have to get an insider pass to get a feel of fashion week here in Korea.

You see it everywhere, every day. Natalie advises, “Don't be sad if you can't get into a show. There's always amazing street style outside so immerse yourself in that culture if you want to get into the true Korean style.”

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Great Expectations

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But of course, that isn’t to say that SFW is all about urban street wear, with several veteran and emerging haute couture designers still producing art on the runways.

www.groovekorea.com October 2016

where Seoul Fashion Week at Dongdaemun Design Plaza when October 17-October 22, 2016.

Website www.seoulfashionweek.org

C O MMU NITY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Defense in The Real World

Krav Maga school in Itaewon teaches practical self-defense Story by Hallie Bradley Photos by Clayton Jones

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

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street, at a park, or at a party. rom walking down the street to takregardless of age, gender, size, or background Not only is Krav Maga useful, but Buzing a trip abroad, there is always the to learn how to finish a fight as quickly and as iwe Mbatha said she appreciates the small danger that something unideal can safely as possible with counter-attack maneusteps that are taught for defense against anyhappen. Rather than be surprised, vers, plus an awareness of additional threats one, and the classes have made her fitter, too. shocked, or stunned, Krav Maga provides the and escape routes. Avoiding conflict and conWhile she’s become more aware of her body, opportunity to be prepared. frontation is always the best policy, but somewith Krav Maga she also feels like she can betOriginally developed in Israel, Krav Maga times it just can’t be avoided. “The unique ter protect herself if necessary. is the official self-defense and hand-to-hand thing about Krav Maga,” explains Corey, “is The courses and instruction provide simcombat system used by the Israeli Defense that unlike a lot of other fighting styles, it’s not ple but very effective defense moves in orForces and the Israeli National and Military a sport or competition — it was created and inder to escape an attack. From de-escalation Police. Don’t let that intense sounding introtended to be used for self-defense in the real techniques, like talking an attacker down, to duction be a deterrent though: students at world.” Without weight classes, rules, or reevasion and re-location: any student walkKMF Korea take special self-defense courses strictions, there are a multitude of applications ing away from a lesson in Krav Maga will be adapted to the civilian lifestyle. Current stuthat Krav Maga can be used for and KMF Kowell-rounded and, more importantly, will be dent Teri Thompson thinks the self-defense rea wants more people to take the time to inconfident. class has helped her become more confident vest in themselves and learn these important Corey Blumenthal, a brown belt in Krav and has given her vital techniques for bad and necessary defensive tactics.

Maga and one of the official instructors and situations. That’s just one of the rave reviews During class, students can expect to learn coordinators for the women’s KMF Korea has received. techniques utilizing strikes to vulnerable areself-defense course taught on While it was originally as including the groin, eyes, ears, throat, and To be clear, Saturdays at the Itaewon locageared towards professionals, joints which can assist in neutralizing an asKrav Maga is not tion, can think back on times the special tactical approaches sailant. Based on the attacker’s height and about attacking when she was targeted for being and techniques have been adweight, students also learn variations on tacor winning a fight. a woman and knows that if she'd tics in order to effectively break free, get away, justed to provide an accessible KMF Korea is for had Krav Maga skills, she would self-defense program for civilor bring an attacker to his knees. As students anyone regardless have reacted differently. Now, progress, they learn more difficult moves like ians as well. In this day and age, it has become a necessity to pro- of age, gender, size, she wants to give other women locks, throws, and third party protection. The or background to those tools and help them stay scenario-based solutions that the instructors tect oneself and KMF Korea is learn how to finish safe. Corey’s co-instructor and provide also go over what happens in the event there to help. a fight as quickly coordinator is Brendon Spencer, of a knife being wielded and other objects that Gideon Roth, the regional and as safely as a fellow brown belt. Both instrucdirector and foreign representacan be potential hazards. Brendon says that possible... tors have completed the women’s tive for the Krav Maga FederaKrava Maga is “just such a diverse defense self-defense instructor level 1 and tion Korea, the only official Winsystem. You get a little bit of everything — and 2 courses and are officially certified to teach gate Institute accredited Krav Maga school in it’s all practical.” through the Krav Maga Federation. They also Asia, explained that the techniques are “based Add Itaewon Branch TMAS (Total Martial Arts System) hold instructors certifications in Krav Maga around natural reactions of the body.” Due to Gym, 3rd Floor, 119-19 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Civilian Techniques through the Wingate Inthe fact that this practice is based on natural Tel 010-7659-0559 stitute, from Israel, which is considered to be instinct and guttural response, even a person Directions From Itaewon subway station on line #6, take exit 1 and walk straight for 40 meters. Turn right just one of the most sought after certifications for not well-trained in martial arts can execute after Istan Blue and the entrance to TMAS is on the right.

Krav Maga. With Corey, Brendon, and Gideon the techniques in stressful situations. Gideon, Classes Monday – Thursday 9:00pm – 11:00pm leading the classes, students can be assured the most experienced instructor of Krav Maga Saturday 11:00am – 12:00pm Women’s Self Defense they’re in good hands. on the peninsula with 14 years under his belt, Saturday 12:00pm – 2:00pm All Levels Krav Maga To be clear, Krav Maga is not about attackwent further to say that in life-threatening sitWebsite www.kmfkorea.com Facebook www.facebook.com/kmfkorea ing or picking a fight. KMF Korea is for anyone uations where the adrenalin is pumping and the finer motor functions may be lost, Krav Maga skills will still be maintained. That pracHallie Bradley is a writer, educator, editor and more who has lived in Korea since 2006. Check out tical application is important in a world where her website TheSoulofSeoul.net for more articles on culture, Korean traditions and the life of her growing multicultural family in Korea or follow her on Instagram @thesoulofseoulblog for photos along the way. one never knows who they will meet on the

C O MMU NITY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Reaching Out One professor and her students are intent on building hope overseas Story by Liam Ring Photos by Tim Crawford, Visiting Professor at Cheongju National University of Education

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onsider resolving to make a difference. Now consider how great a challenge it can be to follow through on that resolution. Then consider that your new goal relates to orphans living in Africa: a place far removed from your everyday life where dealing with the fallout from HIV/AIDS is a daily battle. This is a continent where over one million people die each year from AIDS-related deaths, and where leaders have often proven perilously slow to undertake the necessary work to combat the infection. A continent where health, community, and education are vital to help not only those with the disease but also those – often orphans – who are left behind afterwards.

For those still intent on making that difference, an elective course at Cheongju National University might seem a bit far flung from Africa. However, when Katelyn Jones was preparing an elective course for her students (future elementary school teachers), she chose to focus on the issue of crises in education outside of the peninsula, and how Koreans could still make a difference even if they were thousands of miles away. “I wanted to create a course,” she remembers, “that helped them to understand [through experience] that we can help out on a local level.” The decision to work with LIV Village was something of a personal one, as Katelyn had friends who had previously volunteered with the organisation and had spent time near the village in Durban, South

tional University of Education. Sports groups Africa. This elective course was to be unlike have been well-represented in the fundraising many others; not just a search for knowledge also, with the Seoul International Darts League and grades but also for awareness and fundand the Itaewon Pool League both hosting raising for a worthy cause. events over the summer months. Looking LIV Village’s focus is on the millions of orahead, charity music events are planned this phaned children left behind primarily by HIV/ October in both Cheongju and AIDS and how solutions can be Daegu, with the overall goal to found to ensure they receive as normal an upbringing as possiOne of my biggest raise KRW 30 million through these events and contributions ble. Focusing on the importance goals [in this made by the Korean business of life skills and a positive famproject] is to ily environment, the children help my students community. For the Daegu event, which will be hosted are placed with a “trained foster understand on over three venues, wristbands mother to love them, a school a global scale can be purchased to allow acto educate them and where all how they can their needs are met.” With that in make a difference. cess to all venues for a mixture of indie, punk, metal mind, LIV has already succeedand many others. A ed in building a village outside worthy cause matched by worDurban which houses 154 children. This is thy contributions. just one of an incredibly ambitious project to It isn’t only about financial build these villages across Africa, thus helpconcerns however, although ing vulnerable children escape the spiral of we all know how little can be poverty and degradation that encompasses done without the necessary many and grow into responsible, well-adjustcash. Katelyn is at pains ed adults with a positive outlook on life. It’s a to ensure that the challenge that needs time, effort, and financial original goal of her assistance. And starting out, Katelyn was as project isn’t forgotaware as anyone of the fundraising challenges ten. An application ahead. for an Education Making the apt decision to begin their Overseas Develfundraising drive last Children’s Day, the opment Assistance group raised KRW 1 million through a raffle (ODA) grant from the and bracelet-making stand at Cheongju Na-

Yeoksam business hotel

reasonable stay

at the perfect location

FREE Wi-Fi | FREE parking

Korean government to allow her students to travel to LIV Village is in the works, allowing them to work directly with the children their work has benefitted. “One of my biggest goals [in this project] is to help my students understand on a global scale how they can make a difference.” No matter how far away you may be, where there’s a will there’s a way to get involved.

8 mins from COEX 5 mins from Gangnam subway station T +82 2 554 8342

October 8 Charity Music Event performed by local musicians at Jupiter Park (Cheongdae area) in Cheongju with an after-party at the Road King Bar in Cheongdae.

October 15 Music Night in Daegu at Urban, Jeng-iy and Retro City. Acts include Thunder Bullet, Food for Worms, Tunas, Mountains, 3Volt (coming from Busan) and more.

October 22 Charity Pool Tournament with the Itaewon Pool League in Seoul held jointly by Scrooge Pub and Dolce Vita. Sign up starts at 2pm with raffle prizes on offer. website www.liv-village.com

F +82 2 557 6190 nh@innthecity.co.kr

Yeoksam subway station (Line no. 2) Exit #8 (150m) Gangnam stn

Yeoksam stn

Sunryeung stn

Samsung stn (COEX)

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Teheranro 37-gil 13-8 Gangnam-gu, Seoul

www.groovekorea.com October 2016

www.innthecity.co.kr

A Wheel Ahead Story by Sam Mendez Photos by Yelim Lee

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

C O MMU NITY

Muui present their first travel project: Seoul, Take The Wheel.

I

mages of people with disabilities in film and TV can be all too rare.

When they do appear, mainstream media often rely on disparaging tropes to frame them. How often is someone with physical disabilities depicted as an “inspiration,” overcoming obstacles and reminding the audience that their problems aren’t so bad after all? How often is disability depicted with pity and charity, simply garnering sympathy and tears? Muui, a Seoulbased nonprofit, is working to change the mainstream conversation around disability through creative productions. Their first project is an original travel series called Seoul, Take the Wheel.

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www.groovekorea.com October 2016

The Project Seoul, Take the Wheel is an English-language tour of South Korea’s capital city with a rotating cast of local residents joining the main host and creative director, Kunho Kim. Over the course of 10 mini-episodes, viewers will join residents in local hangout spots, popular restaurants, and Seoul’s most famous sites. The series presents a new point of view to visitors and residents alike, incorporating wheelchair accessibility information into a glimpse of some of the best that the city has to offer. From Gwangjang Market

information. Drawing on his own experiencto karaoke rooms, Seoul, Take the Wheel is es living and traveling in Seoul, Kim knows a fun, exciting look at what to expect when first-hand that accessibility-related informatraveling around this bustling city. tion can be frustratingly difficult to find.

In each episode, Kunho and friends Though there are rules and regulations show viewers a specific place in Seoul and regarding wheelchair accessibility in Korea, highlight accessibility information with acmany famous sites were built becompanying maps and graphfore such laws were put in place, ics. A series designed for the some buildings fulfill the legal Internet age, each episode The inspiration clocks in at about five min- for this particular requirements without being wholly user-friendly, and other utes, featuring a wide array series comes buildings just simply aren’t up of lush shots that showcase from one very Seoul’s unique architecture, preventable issue to code. With a lack of attention paid to the daily experiences of dynamic city life, and delithat wheelchair wheelchair users, it can be difficious food. Each episode is users face cult to find out ahead of time if publicly available on YouTube whether they’re a building, its entrances, and its and Facebook with English/ trying to travel Korean subtitles, so as to enabroad or in their bathrooms are truly accessible.

So, Kim set out to create Seoul, courage more conversation own hometowns.

Take the Wheel in order to help and action around wheelchair provide more useful accessibiltravel. ity information for locals and visitors alike.

The inspiration for this particular series The group also hopes to raise awareness of comes from one very preventable issue that the unnecessary obstacles wheelchair users wheelchair users face whether they’re trying may face in Seoul. to travel abroad or in their own hometowns.

From vaguely-worded building descriptions online to phone calls with hotel employees The Team who may not fully know what true wheelThe creative director behind the series is chair accessibility entails, one major hurdle Seoul native Kunho Kim, a 22 year-old Harwheelchair travelers face is a lack of useful vard College student and co-founder of the

C O MMU NITY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Muui was formed in 2015 after a road trip taken by co-founders Kunho Kim and Brad Riew around the United States. They learned a lot from this experience and were motivated to increase access to useful information for wheelchair travelers. Throughout their travels together, they saw a link between the lack of accessibility information and the popular methods of depicting people with physical disabilities: the general public may not often see images of wheelchair users leading active lives, and thus they might not stop to consider how people of all mobility levels might make their way through public spaces.

With this lack of thought about accessibili-

What’s Next The Muui team plans to create more video projects and expand their work into other media and interactive formats. They are developing plans to make more international city guides and are aiming to create projects with more audience involvement and user

created content. The next release will be this November with 10 Days in Saigon, a more indepth travel series directed by an independent filmmaker that experiments with a new format and digital map component.

Beyond travel guides, Muui aims to create future projects to draw attention to some of the less visible challenges people with disabilities can face. From legal protections to university bureaucracies, there are many more places to intervene and create a world that’s more accessible for everyone.

www.groovekorea.com October 2016

About Muui

ty comes a lack of action, so Kim and Riew sought to form a group that could tackle these entangled problems all at once.

They formed a team with filmmakers, designers, and other creative individuals.

They also secured advisors from the fields of medicine, art, and politics, and they connected with interested volunteers internationally to help their new group’s work reach Korean and English-speaking audiences.

Muui’s first few projects will focus on wheelchair travel to illustrate their message in a fun, exciting, and easily understandable way. The group hopes these travel projects will provide useful accessibility information while also appealing to viewers who might not necessarily be seeking out such information personally. The group’s hope is that Seoul, Take the Wheel will help increase awareness of accessibility-related issues while setting the stage for more of this exciting, first-of-its-kind work.

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Korean nonprofit organization Muui. Kim grew up in Seoul, went to high school in Vietnam, and is currently finishing his bachelor’s degree in the US. He worked with an equally international team to bring this project to life: local film students, a translation team working between Korea, the US, and the UK, and resident co-hosts (some born and raised in Seoul, others who grew up in Vietnam or Scotland). The international nature of the team reflects the international goals of Muui itself, as well as its wider aims for future projects.

Indie films explore potent socio-political issues in October Story by Simon McEnteggart Photos by HanCinema

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www.groovekorea.com October 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Three by Controversy

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s the Korean film industry has become increasingly more Hollywood-esque in nature, production values have soared while the often damning social critiques that captured international interest and sparked the cinematic component of the Korean wave have waned. Luckily independent filmmakers have picked up the baton in exploring sensitive socio-political and historical controversies, the products of which invariably feature on the film festival circuit but rarely receive a national release. October 2016 is different, however, as three strikingly different and quite controversial indie films are due to hit multiplexes - elderly prostitution is examined in The Bacchus Lady, the ideological divide between North and South Korea is debated in The Net, and accusations of false spy charges and illegal imprisonment are the concern of documentary Spy Nation. This October, visit cinemas to join the debate.

Now in her 60s, So-yeong seriously struggles to make ends meet. Desperate, she resorts to becoming a “bacchus lady” - a woman in her twilight years who approaches men with an energy drink before offering to sell sex. So-yeong earns a popular reputation, until one day a client asks her to assist him with a difficult request. When the BBC reported on elderly prostitution in Seoul back in June 2014, the story quickly went viral, focusing international attention on the economic

When a North Korean fisherman accidentally damages his boat, he is left with little choice but to drift into South Korean waters. Upon capture by a patrol, he is interrogated using shocking methods, and comparing his situation to his experiences in the North, comes to understand that the image of a nation can be far-removed from reality. Director Kim Ki-duk has fully earned his reputation for exploring the darker aspects of Korean

Did you know? Director Kim Ki-duk was due to start the biggest film of his career entitled Who is God? in China later this year, but his application for a working visa was bizarrely rejected. It’s still unknown what will happen with the project, although it may go ahead with a different director at the helm.

Spy Nation Release date October 13 Directed by Choi Seung-ho Starring Choi Seung-ho Distributed by TBA

Journalist-turned-filmmaker Choi Seung-ho examines the strange case of Yu Woo-seong, a man on trial for being a spy due a “confession” made by his sister. Although recently laid off as a reporter due to other controversial issues, Choi picks up Yu’s case and in doing so uncovers a web of manipulation and false evidence that the mainstream media have ignored. Director Choi joins the ever-growing list of journalists – many of whom were laid off in highly controversial

circumstances – who become directors and continue their work in documentary form. Spy Nation is an incredibly brave documentary that challenges the upper echelons of government on espionage cases literally dating back decades, as well as bemoaning the lack of awareness in contemporary Korean culture. It’s a highly provocative debut, in particular the final credits in which the names of those affected are listed.

Did you know? Spy Nation premiered at the Jeonju International Film Festival earlier this year, with tickets for the event extremely hard to come by as they sold out so quickly. At the premiere, director Choi Seung-ho fielded an array of questions from the audience, revealing shocking statistics not included in the film.

Film fans - remember to check The Korean Film Council (KOFIC) website regularly for updates on English subtitled screenings of Korean films occurring in Seoul. www.koreanfilm.or.kr/jsp/schedule/subtitMovie.jsp

www.groovekorea.com October 2016

Release date October 6 Directed by Kim Ki-duk Starring Ryu Seung-beom, Lee Won-geun, Kim Yeong-min Distributed by TBA

society and unabashed masculinity, and has even delved into North and South Korean comparisons before as the writer/producer of Poongsan (2011). This time, however, his approach appears to be quite different as he explores issues related to interrogation, and features commercial actor Ryoo Seung-beom in the lead role. Kim’s films always court controversy and certainly give audiences plenty to debate.

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The Net

Did you know? Actress Yoon Yeo-jeong is one of the most prolific performers in the history of K-cinema, with a career spanning 40 years. Debuting in cinemas in 1971 with Woman of Fire, she has often sought to play empowered characters that go against traditionally-held notions of female roles of the time, typically shocking audiences with her actions and outspoken demeanor.

ENTERTAINMENT

Release date October 6 Directed by E J Yong Starring Yoon Yeo-jeong, Jeon Moo-seong, Yoon Kye-sang Distributed by CGV Arthouse

hardship faced by the older generation. Director E J Yong has boldly taken on the subject and explores the difficulties plaguing Korean senior citizens, with their efforts to cope in the face of adversity forming the more controversial elements of the film. The Bacchus Lady premiered at the Berlin Film Festival earlier in the year to critical praise, and will also be screening at the Busan International Film Festival with English subtitles.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

The Bacchus Lady

Busan Film Festival Reveals Lineup

Eclectic Array of Award-Winning Films Announced

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www.groovekorea.com October 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Story by Simon McEnteggart Photos by Busan International Film Festival (BIFF)

T

he Busan International Film Festilogical horror Personal Shopper by helmer val (BIFF) has unveiled an impresOlivier Assayas, which also won the Best Disive lineup of films to be screened rector award at Cannes, and director Adam during the spectacular 10-day Wingard’s highly anticipated horror sequel event, providing film fans and cineastes alike Blair Witch, which screens in the Midnight with much to be excited for. Running from Passion program.

October 6-15, BIFF will present 300 films Korean cinema is heavily represented from 69 countries, featuring 95 world and with a mix of blockbusters and independent 27 international premieres, including a host selections at BIFF 2016, all with English subof award-winning projects that were recogtitles. Thrillers are well-featured in the form nized earlier in the year at Cannes, Venice, of colonial era spy-noir Age of Shadows by and Berlin. director Kim Jee-woon, alongside erotic peBIFF will open the 21st edition with Koriod drama The Handmaiden by director rean film A Quiet Dream by diPark Chan-wook who adaptrector Zhang Lu. The black and ed the screenplay from the Korean cinema white production features Han novel Fingersmith, and othis heavily Ye-ri as a bar-owner pursued erworldly horror The Wailrepresented by three men who are, in reality, ing by director Na Hong-jin. with a mix of Korean independent filmmakSocially-conscious issues blockbusters ers, who within the film take on are explored through director and independent the personalities of their most selections at BIFF Yoon Ga-eun’s school drama renowned characters. Closing The World of Us, while director 2016, all with the festival is director Hussein English subtitles E J-yong examines the rise of Hassan’s The Dark Wind. The prostitution amongst the elderco-production between Iraq/ ly in Bacchus Lady. A special Qatar/Germany explores romance, communiprogram dedicated to screening the work of ty, and religion as a young woman is abducted classic director Lee Doo-yong will also be

by IS and later struggles to find her place in presented as part of the Korean Cinema Retthe world. rospective.

A number of special guests will also BIFF 2016 will also play host to two special be available for Q&A sessions and events programs. And Film Goes On: Abbas Kiarostthroughout BIFF, notably actor Miles Teller ami Retrospective celebrates the work of the (Whiplash) who will be joined by director Ben renowned Iranian director who sadly passed Younger for a screening of their boxing drama away earlier this year by screening 10 of his Bleed for This. A Special Talk: Three Masters films, including 1997 Palme d’Or winner Taste event is also due to take place between cineof Cherry. South American cinema is due to be matic maestros Lee Chang-dong (Secret Sunrecognized in the Cali Group: Root of Colomshine), Kore-eda Hirokazu (My Little Sister), bian Cinema program, in which 8 feature and and Hou Hsiao Hsien (The Assassin), in which 6 short films will screen and express the evothey discuss their careers. lution of cinema in the region from the 1970s International cinematic highlights include to the present. the SF film Arrival by director Denis VilleWith much to choose from both cinematineuve, which sees Amy Adams attempting cally and in terms of events, festival-goers have to communicate with extraterrestrials, Ryan a lot to look forward to at BIFF this year.

Gosling and Emma Stone’s musical collaboraWhen October 6-15, 2016 tion La La Land, from helmer/scribe Damien Where Busan City (Haeundae, Centum City, Nampodong areas) Chazelle (Whiplash), director Ken Loach’s Times Screening times vary. Check the website for details.

Palme d’Or winner I, Daniel Blake, Kristen Cost Ticket prices vary per screening.

Stewart delving into indie films with psychoWebsite www.biff.kr

No Couches in korea

An insight into an expat’s adventures in the publishing world

restaurants and nightlife establishments.

Additionally, they could talk to us by signing up for these newly opened English schools. A unique element to my own situation was that I lived next to one of the largest dog markets in all of South Korea, Gupo’s Dog Market in Busan. With this book, I wanted to record exactly what that experience was like for foreigners from a direct personal experience.

In regards to sales, I have printed 400 copies of No Couches in Korea already, and have distributed them predominately in the Busan and Seoul areas, and to a lesser extent in the United States. Earlier this summer (2016), I was promoting, distributing, and giving book

short stories both in South Korea and Macau.

I was published in Macau’s Script Road short story collection Rule of Three (2015), published

by GrandePraia. My story was selected as the best of the English submissions. I also had several stories in Scott Burgeson’s Outlanders: Tales of Korea (2008), published in Seoul by Nalari Press.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

signings, and simultaneously I took an extensive note-taking journey to all of the places that were originally in the book. I wanted to add more of a Busan context for 1996, but even more for the current 2016 sections found in the last few chapters. Because of this, if anyone got a hold of this book this summer, you will see a significant amount of additional Korean content. There is now an additional 50 pages, with a 20-page section that was largely irrelevant removed. In short, the version available now has changed significantly from what was in print at the beginning of the summer.

At the moment, the book is a self-published work, mostly because I want 100% control over the content at this time. I am also promoting it with a YouTube channel and a Facebook page that share the same name as the book. Both can also be found on my www. kevinmaher.com website. Please subscribe to those if this article interests you. My other published writing has been in the form of

www.groovekorea.com October 2016

to do with connections. Connecting with the expat community, and connecting with Korea. There wasn’t much more to connect with.

What was special about Busan at that time was the influx of foreign English teachers that arrived for the first time in such numbers. The amount of attention was substantial, compared to how I experienced it a few years later when I was moved to Seoul. In Busan at that time, I could feel that many Koreans had never seen a foreigner before. Suddenly, we were being employed by newly opened language schools in their small neighborhoods. Prior to that time, in Busan in particular, they might see the occasional U.S. soldier or Russian sailor, but they were in fairly confined areas near the port or a military base. The sudden influx of foreign teachers, with these English hagwons popping up everywhere, put foreign faces directly into the sights of Koreans living their ordinary lives. We were suddenly in their supermarkets, neighborhood streets,

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N

o Couches in Korea was released this summer in 2016. The story almost entirely takes place in Busan, South Korea during 1996-1997, just year prior to IMF. It ends with reflection in 2016 on how much South Korea has changed in the last twenty years.

As the author, the story reflects the South Korea that I knew. After I left Busan in 19961997, I returned to live in Seoul during the years 2000-2008. My experiences in these two cities couldn’t have been more different.

Equally, as someone who continues to live in Asia, I consistently return to visit Seoul, and the 2016 experience is another Korea altogether. I felt it was important to share my memories of Pusan in 1996, and provide something as a record of that time. Equally, as you read it, it could just as well take place in 2016 outside of the 1996 contextual cues. The expat experience is just as universal now as it was then.

Focusing on the differences, it is inconceivable to imagine a South Korea before the internet and cellphones. But when I first arrived, we had neither, so the complete lack of connection with the outside world was immense. Living in Busan, I remember the first internet cafe as it opened. Those of us in the expat community set up an email account for the first time, but checking it was something you only did once or twice a week, when you made your way to that one internet cafe in the city. A few years later, Korea would have a PC-Bang in every niche and cranny of the country. We had no way to make any connection like that previously, and even telephone calls were resigned to landlines. This meant that when you left your apartment, you lost all contact with people. Additionally, extensive construction was going on in the mid-1990s; for example, Busan only had one subway line, as opposed to the five it has now. This impacted public spaces, and trying to catch a bus was more like being a participant at either a rugby or an American football match. Mostly though, it was the lack of Western amenities – few textbooks, little English reading material, and almost no other food options outside of Korean. It created a sense of isolation, and a fully immersed Korean experience, with the only outlet being to connect to the people around you. If I were to sum up No Couches in Korea, I would have to say it had entirely

ENTERTAINMENT

Story and Photos by Kevin M Maher

Experience the technology, art and science under one roof Story by Naomi Blenkinsop Photos by Team Lab

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www.groovekorea.com October 2016

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Team Lab World Finally Comes to Seoul

Each of the attractions allow visitors to participate in the creation of the art world that surrounds them and promises an unforgettable experience that fully engages the five senses.

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com October 2016

bring its stunning synthesis of art, technology, and science to South Korea.

Doowon Hahn wasted no time in preparing Team Lab World for South Korea. He really wanted it to match the sophistication and precision of past exhibits in other cities. Hahn describes the final product as “precise, like a Japanese garden.” Although he had to open up shop in 2016, Hahn and the crew worked up to the very last minute to make sure it was just right. “We changed the layout 7 or 8 times to get it just right.”

The Team Lab collective created three different kinds of exhibitions in order to attract as large an audience as possible. First off, there are team lab exhibits which are specifically geared for adults. Next, there are Team Lab Island exhibits which are more suitable for children. Finally, there are Team Lab World exhibits which are enjoyable for any age. Inspired mainly by the recent Team Lab Exhibit in Singapore, Hahn partnered with Team Lab World to create a fun and stimulating art world for children that would still be enjoyable for all.

The attractions at Team Lab World merge art, science, and technology to create an overall interactive and stimulating environment for its participants.

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T

eam Lab World officially opened its doors on August 5 this year at Lotte World in Seoul.

Teaming up with PCA Kids Korea, Team Lab World now brings the internationally renowned design company based in Japan to South Korea. With its spectacular exhibits showcased in several major cities around the world, Team Lab’s diverse collective of professionals, including engineers, animators, programmers, and many more, have created several stunning exhibits which merge technology, art, and science in an innovative and sophisticated manner.

Although Team Lab is famous in many other countries for their groundbreaking exhibits, it has remained relatively unknown on the Korean peninsula. Doowon Hahn, CEO of PCA Kids Korea hopes to change this by popularizing Team Lab World in South Korea. He will have plenty of time to make that happen seeing that the exhibit will be at Lotte World for the next four years.

In 2015, several high profile companies bid for the chance to bring a Team Lab exhibit to South Korea. PCA Kids Korea was granted the highly coveted partnership with Team Lab to

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com October 2016 46

Unlike a typical art gallery installation, visitors to Team Lab exhibits actively participate in creating the art world that surrounds them. Each of the attractions allow visitors to participate in the creation of the art world that surrounds them and promises an unforgettable experience that fully engages the five senses.

The first installation that visitors encounter as they enter Team Lab World is Flutter of Butterflies Beyond Borders. This interactive environment allows visitors to reflect on the influence they have on their natural environment. The flowers actually emanate a scent depending on the number of visitors in the room. The scent becomes stronger as the number of people in the room increases. Also, when visitors hit the butterflies on the wall, they fall to the ground, just like in real life.

A favorite among art lovers, Sketch Aquarium is a giant virtual aquarium in which participants can draw pictures of sea creatures, scan the pictures, and almost immediately see them projected onto a giant, virtual aquarium. Similarly, Sketch Town allows participants to create their own giant, virtual version of Seoul with drawings of cars, buildings, and even spaceships.

If drawing isn’t your thing, head over to Light Ball Orchestra where participants create their own color and sound orchestra by rolling huge light balls in front of them. Each time you roll a light ball, the color and sound changes.

A favorite with children, Hopscotch for Geniuses allows participants to draw their own hopscotch course made up of different shapes.

Each time you jump onto your shapes, sound effects and beautiful images appear on the installation.

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com October 2016

Add 240 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul TEL 02-1670-3114 Website www.seoul.teamlabworld.com Time 10am – 9pm Cost Child (25 months to 12 years old) KRW 24,000, Adult (13 to 64) KRW 20,000 Transport Jamsil Station (Line 2 or Line 8, Exit 4)

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Team Lab exhibits have truly revolutionized the typical art gallery show. At a typical art exhibit, visitors will see the same pieces of art arranged in the same way. However, at a Team Lab World exhibit, no two visits are ever the same. The art being displayed is completely dependent on what the participants produce, blurring the line between the observer and what is being observed. Team Lab World will be in Seoul for four years but the installations PCA Kids will keep evolving and changKorea was granted ing with each new visitor. the highly coveted Since Team Lab World is partnership barely in its infancy in Seoul, with Team Lab to there are no concrete future bring its stunning plans as of yet. Hahn plans synthesis of art, on changing the exhibits evtechnology, and science to South ery year in order to showcase Korea. a full range of what Team Lab has to offer. For the present moment, Hahn and his team are completely focused on making Team Lab World as enjoyable and entertaining as possible for each and every visitor.

Team Lab World is a perfect place to bring kids and will surely keep them entertained for hours. It is also a great place for a fun date or a day out with friends. Team Lab World is a place you can come back to time and time again and always have a fresh new experience.

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

A primer on the Korean metal scene Metal, punk and indie is here.

Story and Photos by Michael O'Dwyer

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www.groovekorea.com October 2016

W

hen you think of Korean music, you typically think of K-Pop, that juggernaut of catchy lyrics and stylized videos. If you are a resident of Seoul, you are probably aware of the bustling Korean indie rock scene. But, even if you’re a fan of live music, rock music, or even metal you might be unaware that Korea has a thriving heavy metal music scene: an underground music scene that has a lot of crossover between genres, a welcoming atmosphere, a dynamic spirit, and a relentless energy. Let’s talk about this small, yet incredibly loud collective of musicians and fans, after which you’ll hopefully be encouraged to see the musical magic for yourself.

The history In the decades after the Korean War, rock

music was unofficially illegal in Korea. Under President Park Chung-Hee’s administration, foreign music and albums were heavily censored. This had all changed drastically by the 1980s as these social programs ended and rock music became hugely popular, with many Korean rock and metal bands forming.

Notable bands including Sinawe, Baekdoosan, Black Hole, H20, Black Syndrome, and others became popular mainstream acts that could be heard on the radio, be seen on TV, and sell out huge venues. Most of these bands still play regularly in Seoul at much smaller venues.

This trend continued and later Korean rockers formed more specialized genres including punk bands like No Brain, death metal bands like Seed, and thrash metal bands like Crash.

Korean music historians call the 80’s and 90’s the Golden Age of metal and rock as K-Pop

music began to dominate all aspects of the Korean media by the late ‘90s, forcing out other music styles; a trend that continues to this day.

Kim Hee-Ju of the death metal band Imperial Domination says, “The K-metal scene was not that bad until 2006. Usually almost 100 fans came, sometimes 200, to a major metal show.

Bands like Crash could gather a couple of hundred people for a show easily. But since 2007, the scene just collapsed. It went to almost nothing. Like 20-30 fans, it could be called a good show. Big shame.”

Some metal rock stars transitioned into K-Pop, such as Seo Taiji of Sinawe, who founded one of the first K-Pop idol groups, Seo Taiji and the Boys. There was a societal shift from rock to K-Pop and as a result, today’s metal scene is small in comparison to the huge population of Seoul.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com October 2016 49

part of the whole show is eating and drinking with everyone afterwards,” says Dan Orozco, writer of AsiaMetalHead.

One of the biggest differences between Probably due to the small size of the scene, seeing live music in Korea and in Western a lot of shows will offer a mix of genres. Ofcountries is how early the performances start. ten there will be shows that feature a mix of Opening bands usually start at exactly 6pm punk, classic thrash metal, black metal, and with the last band often playing their final grind-core bands.

Faced with K-Pop’s brightnotes well before midnight. This is to allow ly packaged sugary pop, many underground people to catch the subway before it shuts bands have moved to the other extreme of down, I was used to showing up at a venue insanely loud guitar shredding and brutal fashionably late at 9pm or later and I would guttural vocals.

Thumbo Gumbo of Vermin often miss half the bands.

Majesty explains, “The Korean Another characteristic is the scene is unique as its diverse incredible work ethic and dedAn underground and certain movements towards ication that most of the bands music scene extreme music and activities are have. There’s rarely long set-ups that has a lot happening for sure...going deepbetween acts. One band will of crossover er instead of spreading out.” finish their last song and then between genres, Metal, punk, and indie muimmediately break down their a welcoming sic in Korea are all small scenes, equipment while the next one atmosphere, yet there seems to be a renaisstarts their set-up, usually starta dynamic spirit, sance occurring.

New record laing the next set in 15 minutes. and a relentless bels and organizers have formed Also, Korean bands have a well energy. in the last two years, including earned reputation of never phonDope Records, Vermin Majesty ing in their performances; no Records, and Hell Ride Productions.

Intermatter how small their audience, they give evnational metal bands such as NightWish, At ery performance their all. ”And the other very the Gates, Kamelot, Behemoth, ArchEnemy, specific thing about the Korean metal scene is and many others have performed to large that there are so many good bands [in relation crowds. Thrash metal band Method has apto] the scene's size. Almost peared several times on network TV along every band is good. Of course with indie music bands such as Gukkasten, the Korean metal scene is very and other bands considered underground. small so there are not many Every weekend there is a selection of metbands, but all active bands al shows to choose from in Seoul, as well as are quite good so you won't be Busan and occasionally Daegu. And there is disappointed whichever show a much more developed network for the proyou go to,” says Kim Hee-Ju. motion of shows. Metal-focused website, AsiThere is also an encomaMetalhead (http://asiametalhead.com) offers passing sense of community a schedule of concerts in English, and for a between the bands and music more comprehensive rundown of indie, punk, fans. After the shows, there metal music concerts, check out the Korean are usually huge group dinGig Guide (www.koreagigguide.com). Through ners involving the performing its highs and lows, it’s honestly amazing that bands and fans - usually with the Korean underground scene even exists a lot of drinking and chatting in one of the world’s most Confucian and trathat goes on until the earditional societies. Yet, it has a thriving and ly morning. “After a show in evolving spirit of rebellion, community, and Florida, I would just head-banging. go home. In Korea,

ENTERTAINMENT

What is the Korean metal scene like today?

Groove Korea: The

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Anniversary

Groove Korea’s current publisher talks about how the magazine has

The unforgettable couple theme November 2006 / January-March 2007

One year In October 2007, I was sitting down with Steve Kuiack, the original founder of Groove Korea magazine. We were at Pancho's in Itaewon and I was listening carefully to an unexpected offer. The offer was to take over a magazine he had launched only a year ago as he and his beloved wife Shannon were leaving the country and seeking the right buyer.

Perhaps it was the numerous shots of tequila or my initial excitement of what I could bring to the magazine but we came to an agreement very quickly.

It was that night that I thought to myself that I would give myself one year to find a new job; surely that would be enough time. I had only accepted the offer to personally buy me time to find my own new career. I would have absolutely said ‘no’ if I had only known that this would require a minimum 10-year commitment.

At the time, Groove Korea was being designed by Dan Thwaits, my brother from another mother, from Canada. A year later, I was ready to pull away from the magazine as

planned and was even offered a job in Paris.

However, it was at that time that Dan had decided to move to Korea, fully motivated and ready to take over the magazine and bring it to the next level. He had even thought out a new logo for the magazine.

Within his first day of arriving in Korea, we went bar hopping, visiting almost every bar in Itaewon - and that was before 5pm. With alcohol seeping through my body once more, it was time to make more decisions as Dan played witness to my refusal to the new job in Paris that was now floating away. I still believe to this day, that if it were not for the second round of drinks, Groove Korea would have been long gone and never existed today.

The Magnificent Five With half a decade of experience behind the magazine, a stable team was now in place: Tracey Stark, our first and his-ownkind of editor in-chief, Naheen Madarbakus,

our then content editor but now editorial direc- tor, Liam Ring, the 100% Irishman and definitely 0% Englishman, and Adam Walsh, the fighter (in every sense) from Newfoundland. Dan Thwaits and I were the first and original team that actually started to use job titles at the magazine and yet our duties were still confusing. It was progress to start dividing the magazine into sections and into responsibilities as we had no idea what each person was doing or know who could be held responsible for what.

Once we set the team, it was time to pay attention to the many talented writers that had started emailing us and had showed their interest in working with Groove Korea.

What Groove Korea is today has led from the original team, and all of those in-between. Some of our former editors (Matthew Lamers, Elaine Ramirez, Josh Foreman, Summer Walker, Dylan Goldby, Daniel Sanchez) were those who joined the team after a proper job interview was conducted – and nobody at Groove Towers can ever forget our dedicated graphic designer, Sam.I could probably spend hours looking through my

Story Of A Decade

The Business Angle Kudos to Steve K. I still can't figure out how he ever made a profit out of this business. Under my management, I can still count the months when we made a profit on one hand as those months were rare. Considering all the fun we had along the way with the free food, free drinks and free concert tickets, business has been bearable.

Most people assume or suspect how we could ever make profits last this long. The truth is we are not. We are dependent on

revenues, of course. And the revenue from advertising which our clients give us and are only made possible by the readers that contact them from our articles.

We are mostly voluntary-based and this enables, even sustains, our business to continue. Before Groove Korea, there were other magazines like K-Scene and K-Classifieds which folded in early 2006. There was also Eloquence and more recently, 10 Magazine which decided to go online this year. All in all, I reckon there are at least half a dozen English magazines that have come and gone.

Some say that the print business is dead.

And in some respects, I believe so.

However, unless your Korean is good enough to surf the NAVER website or watch the Korean news on TV, I also truly believe that expats still want to turn to a good old-fashioned hard copy printed magazine.

To have that information in your hands - and to have it for free is our duty.

For this reason, I believe that this business still has a chance. And to prove this, NAVER, TV channels, Samsung and Hyundai (to name a few) still call us to have busi-

ness meetings.

That said, I encourage you to let Groove Korea know about services that expats would enjoy so the magazine can serve you better.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

emails from the last ten years and spend days, weeks, naming all the talented and best people I've came across. And yet the magnificent five are the original creators – and in some cases, those who are still creating the magazine today.

Let’s forget all the soppiness and excuses though and face it: we were like a bunch of college students who would arrange editorial meetings so that we could drink.

Accomplishments Aside from being the longest publishing English expat magazine in Korea for ten years, Groove Korea was also the first locally published English magazine to be put on the bookshelves of all Starbucks stores nationwide. Groove Korea was also the first and the only locally published English magazine allowed to be distributed within the US ARMY bases in Korea, and Groove Korea was the first English magazine to expand upon its distribution lines to become nationwide, and consequently, the first and the only English language magazine to carry advertisements for businesses in all the major cities in Korea; Seoul, Busan, Daegu, Incheon, Jeju, Jeonju.

Groove Korea was also the only English expat magazine to reach 130+ pages in regu-

www.groovekorea.com October 2016

of two uls y r o m in me eautiful so fire. b ic young d in a trag ie y who d nd the onl r. rst a hite cove i f e h T and w nds black ove of frie on of ‘ The l he compassiil 2008 and t gers’ - Apr stran

The le ge thank ndary ‘One s you ca to Naheen Fine Day in a … n walki find our nd Liam. If ’ series. A fir gai ng yo Augus on the cro st editor-i u look car n, e sswal n t & De k in h -chief Tra fully, cembe is bar c r 2008 e feet. ey Stark Anniversary

Story and Photos by Sean Choi

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survived a decade

Anniversary Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com October 2016 52

Solely picture wise, these are my favorites ‘Thailand : The menace of Maya Bay’ photo by Flash Parker – June 2010 ‘Eat your Kimchi : How two Canadians rode to the crest of the Korean Wave’ photo by James Little – July 2010 ‘The Warriors : expat team spreads the gospel of football in Korea’ photo by Dylan Goldby – September 2012’ lar issues and the first English magazine to have political and social issues as the cover story; the candle vigil in 2008, many LGBT covers over years, the Comfort Women and plenty more issues to be proud of.

For ten years, our competition was with ourselves. Instead of looking into other magazines’ advertisements and contacting them, we focused on expanding our distribution, finding better quality paper which would be more comfortable to read or grab, meeting all of our talented contributors and much, much more. We raised the bar for this business and expanded the proverbial window. It would have been easier to follow in another’s footsteps, for sure. However, we didn’t have the

It seems to be the most favored cover by our photographers. The secr et is that it was not suppos ed to be as seen. We accident ally skipped Photoshop.

‘I sell sex and I have ri ghts, too’ – January 2015

luxury as this market was and still is - niche. From this perspective, it’s perhaps safe to say that we are proud of our accomplishments and being a pioneer and a leader in the magazine business.

However, our most proud accomplishment lies in our readers. We get emails from our readers everyday asking for where or how to spend their weekends. Where to go for dinner on Thanksgiving Day, to suggest an itinerary for their first visit to Korea and also to comment on serious crimes reported against foreigners which have not been spotlighted in the Korean media.

When the major Korean media portray

relations of Koreans and non-Koreans wrongfully, we argue by putting together stories from both sides. Groove Korea speaks to the families involved, speaks to the Koreans and non-Koreans that have an opinion and treats Koreans and non-Koreans equally.

When crimes committed by foreigners are highlighted and purported on how they are becoming prevailing, we are concerned for all of those being victimized by Koreans.

These are the cases where we find accomplishment.

No, we can hardly call ourselves The Times but we are journalists seeking the truth. We also serve to be the ears and the voices for our readers.

and why ver t s r e d n u not fore I just can ous case lingers aves sl bvi such an o e : Surviving sexber 2012 em ham ‘Japan’s s it justice’ – Nov still awa

The 20th anniversary Our team had planned - or at least ex-

though we have hardly sensed this blessing given the current publication market or feel the saying to be fit for us just yet. Regardless, I am committed to invest all my sources and time for Groove Korea and its 20th anniversary. As said at the beginning, the magazine business (especially the print ones) is not an attractive one from a profit making angle.

And I would personally dissuade anyone who plans to start up a magazine business to go into it - unless s/he has got a great team set up already. It’s never about what you can do. It’s all about people you work with.

So, why we do it or how we do it? It's because we still receive emails start with 'Dear Groove Korea…". And ten years later, our team is still grooving.

www.groovekorea.com October 2016

In case it’s not known, allow me to explain the Groove Korea slogan: ‘your community’. Groove Korea is all about you reading this online or picking up a copy and strives to be the insight into your community. We are committed to make your stay in Korea worth it.

pected - to hold a big party for our 10th anniversary to show our gratitude to our contributors and our most valuable readers; that’s you, my dear. And yet, not to be superstitious, we didn’t want to jinx it. So, instead, we are looking ahead to another 10 years - at the very least. We had our 100th issue anniversary in 2015 - and that was a huge party to recover from.

In the Korean magazine business, it is often said that when a magazine survives 3 years, you can proudly introduce yourself to others as a magazine associate. When it survives 10 years, it’s well-known that you are safe and in good hands.

I wish this could be true in our case;

53

We couldn’t squeeze out the right image for the cover story. So, our editor Josh Foreman bravely volunteered as the cover model ‘Dear Korea: I still don’t have AIDS’ - April 2013

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Anniversary

d joyful n a e v i t c t attra The most del. It did turn ou cover mo e. I told you so.

Jasmin hy Korea must , y l l u f i t beau 2013 Lee on w ‘Jasmine lturalism’ – May ulticu embrace m

Laughing,Living & Learning Story and Photos by Hallie Bradley

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Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Anniversary

An expat’s advice on living in South Korea

T

en years ago, I took a step off of an airplane into the darkness of night and the neon lights of Seoul, wondering what the heck I’d just done.

Couldn’t read a lick of Korean. Couldn’t speak one word of the language and, to be frank, didn’t have an inkling of the massive history of this tiny peninsula, a world away from whence I called home in Dayton, Ohio.

Korean culture wasn’t mainstream enough to have stereotypically inspired jokes on American sitcoms, and North Korea was not nearly as scary because it wasn’t on the news every other day like it is now — or so my mother calls to tell me. I was ready for an adventure; got a job in Seoul and I took it. Ten years ago, I came

to Korea and life happened, as it does. After ten years in Korea, here’s what I have to say to anyone considering living in Korea for an extended period of time, even if it’s not planned but just sort of happens, as life truly can just sneak up on even the most planned among us.

Many people move abroad not realizing the effort it will take Live just to live. Daily errands like heading to the market or the post office become chores akin to washing the dishes and taking the trash out when we were little. What’s more is that now they have to be done only during the hours when a translator is on call, likely during working hours, which

It's inevitable that a situation will arise that will bring you to the cusp of banging your head against a wall or yelling in the face of another person. Just laugh. I mean that quite literally

makes it almost impossible to get anything done. When going to the grocery store, bank, or café requires a translator to figure out things like what the ingredients are in that soup, or why that chai tea latte can’t be purchased in a large size like the vanilla latte (Ediya, I’m talking to you), it can get exhausting. But don’t let the chores get you down. There are numerous clubs, organizations and associations just itching for more members, all with amazing classes, activities, and events all over the country. Moving abroad can be an adventure, which can sometimes be exhausting, but the adventure is what we make it. Get involved.

It's inevitable that a situation will arise that will bring you to Laugh the cusp of banging your head against a wall or yelling in the face of another person. Just laugh. I mean that quite literally. Turn that frown upside down.

Open your mouth and make the most ridiculous sounding ‘hardy har har’ you've ever made, and at some point it will turn into real laughter. Whatever it is, from the seemingly football inspired way that people run into each other to get on and off the subway, or the ridiculous assumption that you can be asked

Anniversary Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

www.groovekorea.com October 2016

Take the time to learn about the place rather than arriving, havLearn ing experiences, and making the assumption that everything is wrong or backwards. There are reasons for numerous things that people consistently complain about or just don’t take the time to

read up on. Koreans were actually taught to walk on the left side of the path up until 2009 for instance so if someone ends up on the left while the opposite wanderer is on the right, there’s going to be a little pavement dance but it’s no fault of anyone and to no one’s benefit to get upset about it. It’s just one of the many “annoyances” people find while living in Korea, yet it doesn’t have to be one. A part of moving abroad is effectively learning and accepting that life will change and we will change with it; and more often than not it is a good thing.

Most people don’t come to Korea expecting to stay a few years let alone a decade. In that decade so much has changed that sometimes it is just mind-boggling. There’s more than one option for peanut butter now, thank goodness! Sure, a lot has stayed the same, too.

Buildings are torn down and rebuilt in an extremely short time, and that’s been happening for ten years straight. There’s never a no-construction period and it doesn’t seem likely there will ever be one. Becoming a local-foreigner, a title I dubbed myself while writing this piece, can be extremely rewarding in so many different ways; but chief among them is learning how adaptable we humans can truly be.

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last minute to write ten pages of student reviews for the next morning, it will not seem so bad after a good belly-holding bout of laughter.

Yes, no one likes to be told by one immigration officer that something is necessary and subsequently hearing after waiting in a line for five hours that it isn't necessary by another officer. The questions every day about age, marriage status, and whether or not you'll be able to handle a spicy dish because you're an outsider can be a nuisance but really, get over it. Just laugh. Your expectations for life and how a day should go are different from reality. Rather than cowering in a hole or lashing out aggressively at people that have grown up bumping shoulders, and who are merely taking your taste buds into account before you complain that something was too spicy to digest, laugh. You'll be happier and so will everyone around you.

Happy Hagwon-Versary!

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Anniversary

Celebrating two years of shaking up Korean education with two American guys and a hagwon Story and Photos by Steve Lemlek

The History

that you couldn’t quite survive in your home country. Which, in my case, wasn’t altogether So we opened a school in Korea… That’s untrue. The worst part of becoming an adult what I told my friends and family two years is the harsh realities of employment. And I’ve ago when I first returned to Gyeonggi-do. It always been an unhappy employee. I think just felt like one of those cool, Matt Damon-esI’ve only worked one real job in the United que statements to say. In those brief seven States, outside of my illustrious career as a words, I could perfectly encapsulate my life Papa John’s delivery boy. trajectory at that time. And as a 26-year-old Whether or not I couldn’t hack it in the white guy without many adventures to my United States doesn’t change one fundamental name, the concept of opening an English truth of living abroad… it’s aweschool in Asia was definitely some. And you couldn't ask for a alluring. That alone would imbetter country than South Korea. prove my eventual obituary by Many, even those modern, urban, and (unless at least one achievement. closest to you, will It’s you limit yourselves to the main I always loved to watch evassume that streets of Seoul) is not bound eryone’s reactions in those initial months. “You what!?!?!??!” you couldn’t quite to the flavorless suburbia that over the United States.

Native English teachers alsurvive in your home drapes It’s also a haven for young folks ready in Korea would praise me country. Which, hoping to spread their wings as and gawk with admiration. I young entrepreneurs. was an English teacher here too, in my case, wasn’t At college, I spent five years from 2012-2013, before returning altogether untrue. studying three majors (history, home to strike it rich in the app Latin, and philosophy), eventudevelopment industry (spoilers: ally graduating with degrees in two of them, I didn’t). On the opposite side of the world, but I hadn’t planned on a career in those fields. my friends and family back home would give Instead, I decided to move to Korea to teach me the sideward glance that seemed to say “I English. guess you couldn’t hack it in the USA!” - which For the last half of 2012 and the first half comes with the territory of living abroad. of 2013, I taught 30 Korean kids in the smallest Many, even those closest to you, will assume

middle school in Paju. Every morning, I woke up at 7am (which might as well have been the crack of dawn for this deep sleeper), trudged to the bus stop, and took trusty bus number 52 to Oyu-Jiri, a beautiful farming community in the Paju province.

Rain. Sleet. Snow. Sun. Every day, regardless of conditions, I followed the same routine. And it was pretty great. I loved working at that school. My co-teacher, Mrs. Moon, introduced me to all the great parts of Korea: friends, office parties, culture, food, the whole shebang. Of course, there was a fair share of conflict, but it always seemed to work out alright.I went home after that first year. I returned to my old college town and to be frank, it was every bit as pathetic as you would imagine: mingling with grad students who I envied for their ambition, visiting undergrad bars, and wasting away my days in a duplex (while dining on Missouri’s greatest fast food). To be fair, I did develop an iOS app or two. Still, returning home was one of the biggest mistakes I’ve ever made, but thankfully it paved my way to one of the biggest opportunities.

In the summer of 2014, my friend Hal called me. He asked me if I’d like to return to Korea and start a school in Dongducheon. I packed my clothes, bought a ticket, and flew back on September 1st...

The Anniversary Today is a mix of two anniversaries for us. Our school opened at two different times, with two different goals. I suppose our “real” school began in September last year. It was at that point that we formalized our concept, created our curriculum, and swung open the doors to adult students. But a year prior to that was when this concept truly developed.

In late summer 2014, after Hal called me, we purchased a facility. We had not yet fully furnished it or prepared much in the way of infrastructure, but we decided to test ourselves (and the market). Perhaps we could’ve been considered a functioning academy at that point. Although, our school was just a room - a big room, but just a room, humbly dressed in cucumber-green walls and faux-wood panel flooring - it was about as bootstrapped as a start-up can get. None of that really mattered at the time, though. In our minds, we were more sincerely trying to test ourselves rather than create a fully prepared corporate business. In those early days, we rarely turned our mind to businessesy concepts like marketing, competition, life-time value of a customer, or whatever other jargon you’d regularly hear Hal and I discuss nowadays. Of course we should have.

We certainly still feel a tinge of pain from the consequences of our little forethought. But we were more concerned with problems that seemed, at least at the time, more pertinent. Could we actually own a school? Could we be successful? Could we make this a long-term gig? Thankfully, the answer to those questions was “Yes!” In the past two years, our school has grown from a modest operation to the premier English conversation school in our area. Not only that, but we are currently positioned as the market leader in the bigger cities surrounding us. Hal and I are immensely proud. We recently opened a website to provide conversation lessons (for free) to all English teachers in Korea.

And that’s become an even larger part of our business.

There was a lot of work that you would never see between those two points in time. Between “We should start a school” and “Wow, we have 120 students.”

I could write volumes about those experiences. But I won’t.

Let me just say this... It’s difficult to start a business. It’s even more difficult to start a business with partners. Combine those obstacles with life abroad, and you’ll find yourself fighting against the odds. You’ll make friends; they’ll support you and they’ll guide you. But you’ll also make enemies: competition, disgruntled customers, and a horde of ill-wishers.

From all of this, I know Hal and I have learned one gigantic lesson… appreciate the advice of those close to you, but don’t take it. Rarely take it. Especially if someone says, “You shouldn’t do that” or, “That won’t work here.” When we first started, we were beholden to advice from others. It slowed us down. And it hurt us financially.

Now, don’t misunderstand me. I’m not claiming that your own intuition will be enough to make you a successful businessman in Korea. But there’s far more valuable advice on the internet, in the form of web marketing forums, e-books, and start-up case studies. Use those. Study those.

We survived though. We celebrate the very first day we started teaching adults inside of our not-yet-sharpened school.

And we also celebrate our more formal opening in September of 2015. I’d love to find a pithy statement to perfectly sum up this one moment, but I can’t. It’s been a long, complicated, winding road for Hal and I as we started our hagwon, and I can’t boil it into one sentence. It’s been awesome, that’s for sure. I can’t wait to see what we do in the next two years.

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Learn Your Peruvian Basics at Tigre Cevicheria Ceviche, anticuchos, and pisco abound

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Edited by Jordan Redmond (food@groovekorea.com)

FOOD & DRINK

Story by Jordan Redmond Photos by Deokhwa Kim

P

eru. It's far, faaaaaar away. About as far from Korea as the moon, it seems. A geographical distance reflected by the number of Peruvian restaurants to be found in Seoul: one. There used to be Cusco near Hapjeong Station and there could still yet be one tucked away in this megacity, but right now your only ray of Andean hope is Tigre Cevicheria. Lucky for you, Tigre hues as close to textbook Peruvian as it can given distance and the resulting sourcing problems. Tigre delivers straight-forward fare that deserves a good amount of praise for being gutsy enough to try to be comfortable in its own Almost as soon as service starts, gastronomic skin, especially the lights go low, with the rent prices in its area of the volume of Hannam-dong. the impeccably When you Google image selected 90's hip- search “aji de gallena,” the rehop gets bumped up, sulting photos will invariably and Tigre shows its look like what arrives on your stripes as a date plate at Tigre. So, no worries for spot or as a solid those of you scarred by fusion place to convene food experiments gone awry. for small plates Aji de gallena is a creamy chickwith friends. en-based dish featuring a sauce made with evaporated milk, yellow bell peppers (substituted for the hard-to-get Peruvian aji peppers), and walnuts. Think of it as Peru's chicken korma.

Kalamata olives make a rare appearance and the usually hard-boiled egg is soft-boiled here because, well, why the hell not? The gooey soft-boiled texture accentuates the already ample richness of the dish.

The ceviche is also spot-on.

Hunks of fluke and shrimp come in a pool of lime juice which acts to "cook" the fish. As much as Koreans love fluke, also known as gwang-eo, it’s amazing that ceviche hasn't become more a trendy food. Perhaps only the eye-watering cost of limes holds back what could be a heavenly

food fad for 2017. If ever there was a time to root for international free trade agreements...

As true as Tigre tries to be to Peruvian basics, the atmosphere is more slightly upmarket than the old wooden benches you'd likely be perched upon eating similar food in Lima or Cusco. After all, the place is located in a ritzy part of Hannam-dong where one might accidentally get a $70 haircut. Almost as soon as service starts, the lights go low, the volume of the impeccably selected 90's hip-hop gets bumped up, and Tigre shows its stripes as a date spot or as a solid place to convene for small plates with friends. In fact, you should take this rarified chance to have a pisco sour or another pisco-based cocktail that might be gnawing at your leftover nostalgia from backpacking through Peru.

As every desperate backpacker knows, in quite a bit of South America, empanadas are your best friend. Tigre's iteration is oven-baked in a thick pastry shell. You'd be forgiven for thinking the shell constitutes most of the contents, but this empanada reveals itself as a generously stuffed meat envelope. The beef content is a bit on the sweet side due to raisins and the dusted confectioner's sugar but the idea of sweet and savory is not out of step with similar Andean empanadas like Bolivian salteĂąas or Argentinian creamed corn and cheese empanadas.

The pollo anticuchos, essentially Peruvian chicken skewers, also hue towards sweetness. The smokiness of its sauce is a lot like Chipotle's carnitas sauce but here the dulcet taste comes via roasted, and then blended, red bell peppers. The grilled green onion on the side is a nice touch because you will want to scoop up as much of the anticucho sauce as you can. Last but certainly not least is the stately rocoto relleno, a beef-and-cheddar stuffed red bell pepper that is oven-baked and nicely charred. Cut open the top like a vegetal lobotomy and watch the cheese ooze out. The flavor combinations here will stroke the pleasure centers of pimento cheese lovers. Southerners, try to hold back that tear in the corner of your eye.

The only thing holding Tigre back from being a really exceptional restaurant are the prices, especially if you're drinking, which sit in an uncomfortable range for the typical diner looking to purchase a filling meal for a reasonable price. However, this isn't really an issue if you treat Tigre as one stop amongst a few rounds. In fact, curious gastronomes who've never had Peruvian food, or just those who can afford it, will find a restaurant that tries its best to honestly represent the cuisine. Short of a long flight to South America or New York City, one isn't likely to find a better quality rendition of Peru's greatest culinary hits in Seoul anytime soon.

Prices ceviches KRW 12,000, anticuchos KRW 15-12,000, rocotto relleno KRW 13,000, aji de gallena KRW 18,000 Recommended dishes ceviche clasico, aji de gallena, rocotto relleno Drinks pisco cocktails KRW 18,000, bottles of wine from KRW 40,000, beer from KRW 9,000 Add Yongsan-gu, Hannam-dong 657-11 1F Hours Monday-Saturday 6pm-1am

Chef Bites

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an you tell us a little about yourself, where you grew up, etc?

I was born in Busan, grew up in Anyang. Growing up surrounded by food loving family. I always loved food way more than usual kids. I went to Dankook Univ. in Hannam-dong, which used to be really close from Itaewon. So I would love going there, trying new food when I have no class [or] after class.

I went to The States briefly [for] about 1 year to learn English. New York City and Portland, Oregon. It influenced me a lot, two cities being very culturally diverse. And I got to meet [a] lot of friends from different parts of the world.

I went to travel Mexico; loved the culture and food. Got the usual office job and quit and went to Mexico, and opened VG after I came back.

Tell us a little about your restaurant.

Villa Guerrero is a taqueria, and taqueria is translated into English as 'taco place'. So we sell tacos. Michoacan style carnitas tacos are our signature. We cook pork skin, shoulder, stomach, and tongue in Mexican fashion, we house-make our Mexican chorizo, too. We try to strive [to] make tacos that can be considered 'good' and 'great' for Mexicans and in native Mexico, not only for Koreans.

How did you become a serious Mexican food lover?

I am a serious food nerd and Latin/Mexican culture nerd, too. Like those who like Japanese culture. It just naturally came, I had lots of Latino friends and my best friend, who was Mexican, invited me to their town. I stayed there and fell in love with the food and the culture, [but] more than anything, the people.

They are great. Shout out to Los Chipilingos and Los Arizmendis. o being food nerd and latin nerd, putting [it] together, there you have a fat Korean taquero.

What's the best taco you've ever eaten in your life?

TOUGH QUESTION, there are just so many great tacos in Mexico, different level stuff. But [the] first thing come in my mind is my man Gerald's tacos in Villa Guerrero; him and his father make ridiculously good lamb tacos.

They butcher the animals themselves, too. My man Carlos from Tamaulipas, northern Mexico. He makes some serious grilled Arrachera (skirt steak) and salsa borracha (beer salsa) to accompany the steak, too.

Picking the brains behind Jungsu Lee, Villa Guerrero

pork tacos.

If you could have dinner with any three people, living or dead, who would they be What would be on the table for your last and why? meal?

1. My late uncle he passed away while I Oh, I hope I am with my grandsons for my was in Mexico. He and I were close and I could last meal, so whatever they like. Just like my not be there with him physically. He did not grandpas. But they would like get to try my carnitas, either. some good tortillas if they are reSo, him. and I hope to meet my We try to strive ally my grandsons. Hahaha. late grandpa [at] the table when I [to] make tacos meet him too. that can be What foods or restaurants are 2. My grandpa in Busan considered 'good' on your food bucket list?

He is old and not as healthy as and 'great' for I really want to travel to the Midbefore. And I haven't seen him Mexicans and in dle East for the food. I love the for a while since I have been busy native Mexico, not food and want to try [the] orig(total excuse), recently. When only for Koreans. inal for like 3 months straight.

I was little and in Busan he alPossibly Lebanon, since some ways took me to Chinatown, fish significant Mexican tacos are influenced by market, and let me try things. And he would the immigrants, too. The way they handle certravel to Europe and the US and [came] back tain ingredients is so amazing, unique, and inwith a lot of stuff like cheese and bread [and] teresting, too, that I wanna witness. [And] I restuff [and] kinda educated me with those... and ally want to go to [both] Argentina and Brazil. it helped me growing up loving food. I gotta love him back with some good food.

What was your favorite food when you were 3. An Jung-geun Korean independence a kid? activist, he died fighting for my country's inSausage, I would save up my money and buy a dependence and is the man. Original Korean big bag of sausage for myself from supermarbadass. [I] got a feeling he would have liked my kets, when I was like 10-11 years. Weirdo. tacos. Fueling him up with my well greased

your favorite restaurants Story by Jordan Redmond photos by Jungsu Lee

Where do you go for late night eats after the restaurant closes?

Brooklyn The Burger Joint Garosu-gil. The owner is someone I consider a mentor when it comes to [the] restaurant biz, someone I look up to. Having the best burgers and words of wisdom at the same time from Seoul's Hamburger Kingpin, can't go wrong.

[On] these meet ups [we're] often joined by Maddux Shin, the owner of the rising Maddux Piazza. I go to 김밥천국 a lot, too.

What are some of your favourite restaurants in Seoul?

Maddux Pizza. Brooklyn The Burger Joint. Pizza Iconic. Not a restaurant but Chinatown, Daerim-dong neighborhood.

What's the best thing your mom made for you growing up?

My mom's rice balls, and the recipe came from my mom's mom.

These always stood out amongst my friends' normal gimbap in my childhood. I thought it was invented by my family. Now I know Arancini is Italian. Bummed a little bit, haha.

What food can you absolutely not eat? ​I wanna know, too. So far, none.

Do you cook for yourself at home? If so, what's your go-to dish(es) to cook up?

I usually cook for my pops. They like pasta, so I would like making some pasta with whatever’s seasonal. Also I bring some chorizo home and make some eggs with chorizo scramble sandwiches. I make falafels [from] time to time for friends, too.

Add Gangnam-gu, Bongeunsa-ro 78-gil 12 tel 02-538-8915

In the Mood for Bak Kut Teh A Malaysian braised pork wonderland

Story by Yoo Jin Oh photos by Steve Smith

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ay Heong Bak Kut Teh, a Malaysian specialty restaurant recently opened in Yeonnam-dong, is now serving up one of the most evocative and unapologetic flavors in Seoul. Opened as the Korean branch of the well-known and much-beloved Pao Xiang Bak Kut Teh in Malaysia, May Heong is an ambitious effort to bring Malaysia’s classic dishes to Seoul. Bak kut teh, or “pork bone tea”, is a popular Chinese soup found all over Malaysia and Singapore. With its heavily scented slow-boiled broth and tender pork ribs that fall right off the bone, bak kut teh is a nourishing meal like none other.

Ordering can be a little tricky, but the easiest way is to choose a selection of different meat options for bak kut teh along with an assortment of vegetables, rice, noodles, or even yu tiou (fried Chinese dough). Pork rib bak kut teh, a classic Malaysian dish, has such an intense herbal taste that it may take more than one bite for first-timers to come around. Sooner or later, however, everyone finds themselves

To complement a rich and nourhappily dunking yu tiou into that rich, darkishing meal, May Heong offers a ly colored broth to absorb the 17 herbal flavors range of Chinese liquors, beers, infused into it. For something more subtle, and traditional gongfu tea (puer, try the Vinegar Legs – the current favourite chamomile, jasmine, and many more). amongst Korean patrons. Vinegar Legs, dry Serving up a rare treat for Korea, May Heong bak kut teh, is actually pork knuckle braised also offers durian mochi and fried durian. The in black vinegar. It has a surprisingly sour and fried durian is surprisingly mild, sweet flavor with subtle hints of which may be disappointing to garlic that balances out the richWith its heavily diehard fans, but still manages ness of the fatty pork trotters. For scented slowto be incredibly creamy, rich, Singaporean style bak kut teh, boiled broth and and surprisingly crunchy. try teochow pepper which, untender pork ribs May Heong’s bold and unique like its Malaysian counterparts, that fall right off dishes are quickly gaining atfeatures a clear and lighter soup the bone, Bak kut tention amongst Singaporeans, with a meatier flavor and strongteh is a nourishing Malaysians, and even Koreans er pepper taste. meal like none in search of the next culinary With the emphasis being placed other. trend. And if the food itself isn’t on the broth, it’s not surprising unique enough, drinks like the that the best way to finish off the Michael Jackson, a delicious grass jelly soya meal is to scoop up the leftover soup or gravy drink, certainly are. And if you’re curious like with either a plain bowl of rice, yu tiou, or even I was, make sure to drop in and ask about how a plate of stir-fried vegetables or mushrooms the name came to be. with a drizzle of oyster sauce and fried garlic bits.

Amazing Brewing Company’s Imperial Stout Story and photos by Rob Shelley

Award-winning homebrewer Steven Park cleaned up at last winter’s Stout Wars competition here in Seoul. Now his new brewpub, Amazing Brewing Company (ABC), serves several of his beers along with various guest beers. But it’s his stout that’s shocking customers.

The Shocking Stout is an imperial stout. That means rich, chocolate, roasty, and coffee-like flavours. But unlike a regular stout, the imperial version is high-alcohol. The Shocking Stout weighs in at 8.5%. The extra alcohol and residual sugar lend it a more viscous mouthfeel and sharper bite. It’s a sipper!

Although a very well-made beer, the most shocking thing about it is its price. In Korea, where craft beers are pricey, if you can find a well-made beer that has an almost equal ratio between its ABV (alcohol by volume) and price—for example, a 5-6% beer for KRW6,000—that’s good. The Shocking Stout, like all ABC’s house beers, costs KRW4,900. That’s amazing. add Seongsu-dong, Seongsu 1-ga 27-12 directions Seoul Forest Station Exit 2, take your first right, walk until you hit the first main road. It’s across that road, in an alley, just to your left. price ABC’s beers are all KRW 4,900. Guest beers range from KRW 7,000-24,000 Hours noon-midnight website www.amazingbrewing.co.kr

FOOD & DRINK

Shocking Stout, Shocking Value

Edited by Jordan Redmond (food@groovekorea.com)

Prices Bak Kut Teh 9,000 KRW for a small dish (1 person), 17,000 KRW for a medium dish (2-3 people) and 25,000 KRW for a large dish.

Sides 1,000 KRW – 4,000 KRW for eggs, noodles, and vegetables.

Durian desserts 3,000 KRW – 4,000 KRW Drinks Tea (4,500 KRW), Beer, and Chinese Liquors (4,000 KRW up to 180,000 KRW) Recommended Dishes For lighter and less herbal flavours try the teo cheow pepper or vinegar legs; for a thicker richer broth go for the classic ribs or pork belly. Try ordering a side of fried chinese dough (yu tiao) to dunk in the broth and a bowl of rice or noodle if you’re looking for a fuller meal. Make sure to end the meal with Fried Durian – just try it even if you haven’t been a fan in the past!

AddMapo-gu, Dongyo-ro 266-12 266-12 Hours Open every day from 10:30 to 20:30 (no holidays)

Seoul!

Red Bull Step Aside,

Snoop y Milk Is Here!

Story & Photo by Jordan Redmond

Restaurant Buzz

What to snag on your next mart jaunt Story and photos by Jason Newland

Edited by Jordan Redmond (food@groovekorea.com)

FOOD & DRINK

I

n the milk aisle, meditating beside the cartons of banana milk, strawberry milk, cereal milk, avocado milk, and sweet onion milk, is Snoopy Coffee Milk—a milk carton with a strong uppercut of the caffeine variety.

This attack is not the small wake up punch in, say, an instant Korean coffee (a la Maxim), a crisp Coca-Cola, or a taurine fueled Red Bull. Wait! A Red Bull? How did it escalate so quickly? How’s Snoopy on the same level as Red Bull? He’s not. He’s surpassed Red Bull and the other try-hard energy drinks. Those up to date on Korean pop culture may already know about Snoopy’s jolt in the solar plexus jabs; but for those less informed, a single carton of Snoopy Coffee Milk keeps hearts thumping, arms swinging, and eyes wide open long after everyone wants to go bed. So, the next time there is a big research paper to KO, a mountain of grading to smash, or a night not to be missed, take the Snoopy Coffee Milk’s one-twos and fight for days.

Comings and goings from Seoul's restaurant world

"F

ood dreams are made of these / Who am I to disagree?"

Ok, somewhere Annie Lennox is probably frowning over this egregiously terrible adlib but this line runs through my head whenever I have food fantasies such as tacos and jerk chicken under one roof. Lo! Such a food fancy has come true in the form of The Pirate's Table. The former main men behind Don Charly and Tucan Chicken, two beloved Kyunglidan spots before the day of astronomical rent, have dared to dream — opening what has to be Korea's first "Caribbean bistro." Slingin' jerk chicken and roughneck Mexican tacos, Pirate's Table is a must visit in the choppy Western-food seas of Daechi-dong. Native New Yorkers have no doubt had lusty dreams of The Halal Guys landing in the Seoul city limits. Behold! Your dreams are now reality. The New York-originated fast casual chain will bring its beloved chicken and beef gyro combination platters to Itaewon sometime in October. Can you taste the white sauce already? Lastly, if you're the religious type and constantly pray for more quality burger options city-wide, rejoice, because your invocations have been rewarded! Almighty Cheeseburger has materialized in-between Gyeongbokgung and Samcheong-dong. Offering smashed patty-style burgers for a smidge over KRW 5,000, there will be money left over to tithe… or for the shiny silver can of Pabst Blue Ribbon that you just can't deny.

Pirate's Table Gangnam-gu, Daechi-dong 900-19 02-555-5549 The Halal Guys Yongsan-gu, Itaewon-dong 123-31 2F 02-794-8308

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Almighty Jongro-gu, Hwa-dong 137-5 Cheeseburger 02-733-7180

Makgeolli Bar Evolution Makgeolli's heady rise to the top shelf

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Story by Julia Mellor photos by Robert Evans and Julia Mellor

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erns, date back to the Joseon dynasty when here was a time when heading to people would visit their local to get a bowl of the makgeolli bar could only mean whatever was fresh at the time. You may have a dark and grungy tavern, big tin seen dramas where groups of gnarly lookkettles and huge pours into those ing men wander into the garden of a hanok, quintessential dog bowls. When the rain came set themselves down at a table, and demand a down, these kinds of watering holes would be bowl of rice and a carafe. Such was chocked to the gills with people makgeolli in the old school tavsheltering from the storm, gorgThe stark ern style. The same principle still ing on the comfort of seafood difference from applies today to many ‘Jumaks’ pancakes and bottomless brews.

[Joseon dynasty around the peninsula, where the It was like this for so many years Korea] and now nameless brew gets poured libthat for a long time, such was is the strong erally into a kettle and plonked the only way to enjoy makgeolli. likelihood your Seared into the collective memmodern Jumak host down at the table without so much as a menu perusal. The stark difory, makgeolli had its reputation simply poured a defined as the cheap and cheerplastic bottle into ference from then and now is the strong likelihood your modern Juful people’s drink. your kettle, and mak host simply poured a plastic So you can imagine the confucalled it ‘House Makgeolli’. bottle into your kettle, and called sion when a whole new kind of it ‘House Makgeolli’. makgeolli hit the scene in slenThe Jumak style dominated the makgeolder glass bottles, with stylish designs and a li scene for much of the past century, a place much heftier price tag than the usual bottles at of rough and ready refuge for the stressed the corner store. Makgeolli a drink of repute? out masses. But in 2007 all that was about to Scoffs and guffaws echoed around the nation. change, as the Korean Wave was taking no But, in fact, makgeolli has gone through many global prisoners. Strategically placed advertisincarnations over the past decade, steadily ing campaigns for makgeolli began appearing chipping away at the outdated notion that it is in Japan, endorsed by the K-pop star de jour, just a farmer’s drink. and exports skyrocketed. What is now reLet’s take it back a few steps. Jumaks, or tav-

ferred to as the Makgeolli Boom was the intense new popularity makgeolli enjoyed overseas, even as domestic market remained more or less the same.

Not one to be left on the sidelines, the makgeolli bar scene in Korea began a swift and decisive turn for the trendy. For the first time you could see colorful slushies and fruity makgeolli cocktails, creating a whole new genre of makgeolli drinking. The first steps were being taken to making makgeolli cool, and the bar scene was pandering to a hip and younger crowd. But of course it wasn’t long before makgeolli suffered the same fate as anything Honey Butter: it just stopped being new and shiny.

All the while trendy makgeolli bars were luring their patrons with milk jugs and hipster serving ware, a new era of fine dining with makgeolli had been growing. Admittedly not on the back of makgeolli alone, the culinary scene in Korea has, for lack of a better term, exploded. With a growing appreciation for higher quality cuisine, Korean food finds itself in the spotlight with an emphasis on quality of ingredients and skill of fermentation. To that end, top food needs top drinks, and the scene is set for small batch hand-crafted brews.

Bolstered by the growing variety in terms of quality makgeolli, takju, cheongju, and soju,

Bar Recommendations Olsoo (얼쑤) Far and away some of the best makgeollipared food in town, Olsoo is an example of a chef owned and operated bar. His menu regularly changes with seasonality, and he is respected in the Korean traditional alcohol community for his skill and dedication. The prices here are higher than one would expect to find in the Hongdae area, but they are surely justified. add Mapo-gu, Seogyo-dong 331-18 tel 02-333-8897

White Bear (백곰 막걸리 양조장 & 펍) Newly opened in the Apgujeong area, White Bear must be mentioned for its sheer range. A menu boasting over 200 different Korean alcohols, this bar is run by one of the hardest working members of the Korean traditional alcohol industry. add Gangnam-gu, Sinsa-dong 657-7 tel 02-540-7644

Samarkand's golubtsy Uncovering the city's most irresistible destination dishes Story and photo by Jordan Redmond

olubtsy. Say it aloud. Go-loob-zy. A slippery signifier, maybe, as the dish varies a bit throughout eastern Europe, but the reality of what's in your bowl or on your plate is always stick-toyour-ribs stuff. Golubtsy is by definition a cabbage roll filled with some sort of meat. After that, the dish varies by country. Samarkand dishes out a staunch Uzbeki version. Not only is the cabbage stuffed with meat (likely lamb or beef) but so is the red bell pepper.

These meat parcels sit like oceanic boulders in a sour cream and dill-kissed soup made sweet and orange-tinted by what tastes like turmeric. If it's good enough for a Tashkent winter then it ought to do the trick for Seoul's colder months as well.

ADD Jung-gu, Gwanghui-dong 1-ga 120 tel 02-2277-4267

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Korean restaurants with reputations for excellence are now able to pair food with equally respectable Korean alcohol. These bars and restaurants are, more often than not, owned and operated by chefs who are personally connected to brewers and other members of the traditional alcohol community. If you strike up a conversation with one, don’t be surprised if tastings of their own homemade brews come eagerly to your table.

Gratefully, we now find ourselves in an era with a greater field of choice. If someone suggests heading to a makgeolli bar, it doesn’t necessarily mean graffiti walls and seemingly endless pours, although that experience itself should definitely still be a regular feature. But if discovering something beyond the casual is on the agenda, finding places to do so are not so much of a challenge if you know where to look.

Improving the Korean traditional alcohol industry is not just reliant on the hard work and dedication of the brewers. Makgeolli bars play a pivotal role in introducing consumers, old and new, to the many changes and new products appearing on the scene.

We would love to say it is an easy sell. However, it’s not uncommon to be in one of the more up-market bars and still see tables littered with green bottles of soju. While many customers might not bat an eyelid at dropping alarming coin for a bottle of whiskey, paying twenty or thirty thousand won for Korean alcohol still doesn’t seem to sit well.

But this won’t stop the dogged persistence of these bars and restaurants, willing to keep striving for better in the name of Korean traditional alcohol. So next time you are throwing around ideas of where to get your weekend drinks, consider makgeolli and all its growing possibilities.

Bite o f the mont h

Edited by Jordan Redmond (food@groovekorea.com)

FOOD & DRINK

Nuruk Namu (누룩 나무) A staple bar on the Makgeolli Mamas & Papas rotation, Nuruk Namu has never disappointed. In a back alley of Insadong, this extremely popular and often crowded bar has some of the best makgeolli selections in town, and the food is comforting and affordable. add Jongro-gu, Kwanhun-dong 118-19 tel 02-722-3398

An island getaway in the fall

More than just a jazz festival on Jaraseom Island

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Story by Emma Kalka Photos by Jaruseom.net

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ith fall heralding cooler temperatures and a change in color, some people might be looking for one final getaway before winter settles in around the country. One destination to check out in this respect is Jaraseom Island.

Home to the Jarasum International Jazz Festival every fall, Jaraseom is located in Bukhangang River in Gapyeong, Gyeonggi Province, about an hour northeast of Seoul.

Made up of four islands grouped together – Dongdo, Seodo, Jungdo and Namdo – the area is a treasure trove of outdoor attractions, including an ecosystem theme park, camping facilities, and even the filming location for popular drama series Iris.

Located on the westernmost tip of the Jaraseom campground is the theme park Ewhawon Nabi Story. It is divided into areas for subtropical and southern area plants, and includes themed gardens such as the Brazil

Coffee Garden, Hadong Green Tea Garden, the Goheung Citron Garden, and the Pine Tree Forest. It also includes a butterfly ecology center, the largest butterfly park in the world. Visitors can see live specimens yearround thanks to the park’s warm house.

The park is open from 9am to 6pm from March to October and 9am to 5pm from November to February. Entry is KRW 3000 for adults, KRW 1500 for teens and KRW 1000 for children.

Jarasum International Jazz Festival returns for 13th showing

Story by Emma Kalka Photos by Jarasum International Jazz Festival A mainstay at Jaraseom is the annual Jarasum International Jazz Festival, which is kicking off its 13th edition this year. Taking place on October 1-3, the festival has brought in over 40 acts from South Korea and abroad to perform at 11 different venues and stages, introducing audiences to all facets of jazz. This year’s performers include the likes of Grammy-winning Caetano Veloso, U.S. quartet Oregon, Vladimir Cetkar, Ah Jeong Hyeon & Friends, The Steve McQueens and many, many more.

They will hit one of the many stages set up throughout the island and Gapyeong, including Jazz Island, the Party Stage, Gapyeong Village, the Acoustic Stage and the Pop-Up Stage. In 2004, when Jarusum Jazz Festival first started, it was the only music festival that centered on jazz. The festival continues to focus only on that genre, though introduces audiences to the many flavors of jazz, such as swing, fusion, bossa nova, bebop and world music. It has attracted over one million visitors since it began. This year includes a special “France Focus” which will bring in six French jazz groups to perform in celebration of 130 years of diplomatic relations between France and Korea. All in all, the festival is a special place, according to organizers. “Lying down on the grass, facing the stars, the time with your loved ones and listening to the best jazz. Let’s visit Gapyeong in October,” they say. After October 29, tickets are only available on-site for KRW 55,000 per day for adults and KRW 40,000 per day for children. The number of tickets available will depend on how many tickets have been sold online, so on-site tickets could be limited.

Makgeolli Festivals 2016 Story by Julia Mellor Photos by MMPK It’s that time of year for makgeolli festivals, though the unseasonably warm temperatures may have us all thinking otherwise. Traditionally, October has been the month for makgeolli festivals around the peninsula, and this year is no exception. There are two major festivals on the dance card of makgeolli lovers, the Ilsan Makgeolli Festival and the Jarasum Makgeolli Festival. In previous years, the much larger Jarasum festival has been held during the last week of October to coincide with Makgeolli Day, which is on the last Thursday of the month. However, for anyone that was in attendance at Jarasum last year, it was more than a little chilly in the camping facilities, and we may have needed to drink a few more bottles just to keep the frost at bay! This year, in order to stave off the cold, the Jarasum Makgeolli Festival has been changed to the weekend of October 7-9, which unfortunately falls on the same weekend as the Ilsan Festival. So if you are a makgeolli lover and don’t want to travel too far, be sure to check out the annual Ilsan Makgeolli Festival on either Saturday the 8 or Sunday the 9. But if you really want a full makgeolli festival experience, get your camping gear and head to Jarasum for a weekend of makgeolli and entertainment.

TRA V E L Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Upcoming Festivals This October

www.groovekorea.com October 2016

Ticket For ice-fishing are KRW 13,000 at the venue and KRW 12,000 in advance. For additional fees, you can also buy tickets for bumper cars, sledding and ATV rides. website www.songeo.co.kr Transport By subway, from Sangbong Station on Line 7, transfer to the Gyeongchun Line and get off at Gapyeong Station. Jaraseom Island is a 15-minute walk from the station.

By bus, from the Sangbong Bus Terminal or Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, take an intercity bus to Gapyeong. Jaraseom Island is a 15-minute walk from the bus terminal.

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Even though there are many pensions and hotels located in the Jaraseom area, outdoorsy types can check out Jaraseom’s campground, which was home to the 2008 International Camping and Caravanning Rally. It is eco-friendly and the largest recreational site in the metropolitan area.

The site is open year round and offers several options for campsites, including caravan sites for RV campers and plots for the more traditional tents. During the off-peak season, a campsite is KRW 10,000 per day on weekdays and KRW 15,000 on weekends. During peak season, a site is KRW 15,000 for weekdays and KRW 15,000 on weekends. Check in is 2pm and check-out is 11am. Toiletries are not provided; however, for an additional fee, bedding and cutlery are.

Up for a bit of a thrill? There is a less conventional way to get to Jaraseom Island, though it is not for the faint of heart – zip-lining onto the island. Folks can climb to the top of an 80-meter tower and slide their way down to either Jaraseom or Namiseom Island. The ride usually lasts about a minute and 30 seconds and costs KRW 38,000.

The zip line to Jaraseom Island is open from 9am to 6pm, from April to November. It is closed every first and third Monday of the month or in the case of bad weather.

Another large, outdoor festival that takes place every year in the area is the Jaraseom Singsing Winter Festival, which happens in January. The fest features ice fishing, sledding, skating and just about any kind of wintertime fun one can think of. There are also ice sculptures, parades and vendors selling food, winter wear and fishing supplies to add to the festive atmosphere.

The main draw at the festival is, of course, trout fishing, with attendees able to eat the fish they catch right at the festival. Sashimi or grilled, visitors can eat it to their liking for a small additional fee.

Busan Film Festival Returns Korea’s biggest cinematic extravaganza is back!

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TRA V E L

Story by Simon McEnteggart Photos by Busan International Film Festival (BIFF)

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he Busan International Film Festival is on! BIFF will celebrate its 21st edition from October 6-15, screening the very best cinematic endeavors from around the world over the course of its 10-day run.

It is something of a relief to be able to report that the festival is even taking place because, for much of the year, the 2016 edition has been in doubt. Ever since BIFF screened director Kim Sang-ho’s controversial documentary The Truth Shall Not Rest with Sewol back in 2014, the fesotival has been embroiled in a dispute with Busan City regarding autonomy to the point where many wondered if BIFF would be cancelled completely. However, with the appointment of BIFF co-founder and hugely influential industry figure Kim Dong-ho as the new chairman, the debate has eased and the festival will proceed as planned.

Because of the time it has taken to get to this point, festival organizers are still busy preparing for the celebration of cinema and as such details of specific screenings will be released in the run up to opening day. Yet that said, there’s still lots to be excited for.

It is something of a relief to be able to report that the festival is even taking place because, for much of the year, the 2016 edition has been in doubt.

Locations

impressive and screenings occurs at nearby Cencontain both tum City, where the lavish Busan celebrated works Cinema Center and several other from international large multiplexes are gathered. film festivals held The enormous theater screens in earlier in the year, the area are a great place to catch as well as scores the latest work from renowned of international filmmakers, many of which may premieres. never receive a wider release across the country. Shuttle buses run between Haeundae Beach and Centum City regularly for film fans and tourists to access both areas with ease.

When October 6-15, 2016 Where Busan City (Haeundae, Centum City, Nampo-dong areas) Times Screening times vary. Check the website for details. ticket Ticket prices vary per screening.

Website www.biff.kr/structure/eng/ default.asp Transport Shuttle buses transport visitors between locations.

TRA V E L

focusing on a Korean filmmaker who has provided a significant contribution to the indusOne of the great features of BIFF is Butry. Meanwhile Wide Angle highlights films san City itself, which is not only a picturwith a unique vision, supporting selected esque, sunny, and friendly place to stay for works with a host of cash prize awards, while a few days, but also a welcome slower-paced Open Cinema hosts outdoor screenings of acalternative to Seoul. The festival takes place claimed popular films, and night owls can enprimarily at two locations. Haeundae Beach joy Midnight Passion, which screens horrors is where most of the outdoor activities take and thrillers until the sun rises. The array of place, with kiosks and event stalls spread programming throughout BIFF is nothing if along the strip of sand for people to participate not vast. in and enjoy, while special outdoor talks with The Busan International Film Festival film stars and key industry personnel also looks set to once again be the major cinema occur on a specially made stage on the beach event in the peninsula, so for throughout the festival. There are film fans, cineastes, or even a wealth of restaurants and cafes those with an interest in visitThe diverse film on the promenade too, perfect for categories at BIFF ing the port city, BIFF cannot be a place to rest after walking along are constantly recommended highly enough. the shore. The lion’s share of film

www.groovekorea.com October 2016 71

The diverse film categories at BIFF are constantly impressive and contain both celebrated works from international film festivals held earlier in the year (such as Cannes, Sundance, Berlin, and more), as well as scores of international premieres.

The Gala Presentation program contains a selection of the most eagerly anticipated films of the year, and are typically held on the giant screens in the Busan Cinema Centre such is their popularity. New Currents is a competition category for emerging Asian filmmakers, in which two films will be chosen by a jury of experts to receive USD 30,000 each.

World Cinema is a particularly large category in which celebrated films and filmmakers from non-Asian nations feature, while A Window on Asian Cinema highlights the cinematic output from the region. Korean cinema is well represented with three dedicated programs: Panorama, which provides audiences with a chance to experience the biggest and most popular K-films of the year; Vision, featuring work from independent filmmakers; and Retrospective,

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Film Programs

LISTI N G S Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

HOTELS & RESORTS

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS

FAMILY & KIDS

American Embassy (02) 397-4114 • 188 Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Novotel Ambassador Gangnam (02) 567-1101 • 603 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Seoul Samsung Hospital 1599-3114 • 50 Irwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

Canadian Embassy (02) 3783-6000 • (613) 996-8885 (Emergency Operations Center) Jeongdonggil (Jeong-dong) 21, Jung-gu, Seoul

Grand Hilton Seoul (02) 3216-5656 • 353 Yeonhui-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Asan Medical Center 1688-7575 • 88 Olympic-ro 43-gil, Songpa-gu, Seoul

Somerset Palace Seoul (02) 6730-8888 • 85 Susong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center (053) 250-7167 (7177 / 7187) • 56 Dalseong-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu

EMBASSIES

British Embassy (02) 3210-5500 • Sejong-daero 19-gil 24, Jung-gu, Seoul Australian Embassy (02) 2003-0100 • 19th fl, Kyobo bldg., 1 Jongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul Philippine Embassy (02) 796-7387~9 • 5-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Spanish Embassy (02) 794-3581 • 726-52 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul French Embassy (02) 3149-4300 • 30 Hap-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

HOTELS & RESORTS

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Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (02) 2250-8080 • San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul

Park Hyatt Seoul (02) 2016-1234 • 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Lotte Hotel Busan (051) 810-1000 • 772 Gaya-daero, Busanjin-gu, Busan Park Hyatt Busan (051) 990-1234 • 51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan 612-824, Korea

Airlines Korean Air 1588-2001 Asiana Airlines 1588-8000 Lufthansa (02) 2019-0180 Garuda Indonesia (02) 773-2092 • garuda-indonesia.co.kr

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS Jeju Air 1599-1500 Gangnam St-Mary’s Hospital 1588-1511 • 222 Banpo-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul

T’way Air 1688-8686

Yonsei Severance Hospital (Sinchon) (02) 2227-7777 • 50 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

British Airways (02) 774-5511

Seoul National University Hospital 1339 • 28-2 Yeongeon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Delta Airlines (02) 754-1921

Jin Air 1600-6200

Yongsan Intl. School (02) 797-5104 • San 10-213 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Seoul Intl. School (031) 750-1200 • 388-14 Bokjeong-dong, Sujeong-gu, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do Branksome Hall Asia (02) 6456-8405 • Daejung-eup, Seogipo-si, Jeju Island Daegu Intl. School (053) 980-2100 • 1555 Bongmu-dong, Dong-gu, Daegu

Dulwich College Seoul Dulwich College Seoul offers an exemplary British-style international education (including IGCSE and IBDP) for over 600 expatriate students aged 2 to 18 from over 40 different countries.

6 Sinbanpo-ro 15-gil, Seocho-gu, Seoul, Korea. www.dulwich-seoul.kr admissions@dulwich-seoul.kr 02-3015-8500

Cathay Pacific Airways (02) 311-2700

Emirates Airlines (02) 2022-8400

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HEALTH

Everland Resort (031) 320-5000 • 310 Jeondae-ri, Pogok-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do Lotte World (02) 411-2000 0 • 240 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul Pororo Park (D-Cube city) 1661-6340 • 360-51 Sindorim-dong, Guro-gu, Seoul Children’s Grand Park (zoo) (02) 450-9311 • 216 Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul Seoul Zoo (02) 500-7338 • 159-1 Makgye-dong, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do BOOKSTORES What the Book?

(02) 797-2342 • 176-2, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul • whatthebook.com Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and children’s books.

Kim & Johnson 1566-0549 • B2 fl-1317-20 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

HEALTH ORIENTAL MEDICINE Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic (02) 511-1079 • 3rd fl., Lee&You bldg. 69-5 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Specializes in hair loss and scalp problems and offers comprehensive treatments and services including aesthetic and hair care products.

Soseng Clinic (02) 2253-8051 • 368-90 Sindang 3-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul Yaksan Obesity Clinic (02) 582-4246 • 1364-7, Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul • www.dryaksan.com FITNESS Exxl Fitness Gangnam Finance Center, 737 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul • www.exxl.co.kr Daily Morning Ashtanga Yoga Mysore Classes (English) Jivamukti, Forrest, Universal Yoga (Korean) Apgujeong Rodeo Stn, Exit 4 (02) 515-6011• www.taoyoga.kr

UROLOGY & OB Tower Urology (02) 2277-6699 • 5th fl. 119 Jongno 3-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Chunghwa Animal Hospital / Korea Animal Transport (02) 792-7602 • 21-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / www.cwhospital.com

Hair & Joy

Woori Pet Hospital (02) 393-6675 • 299-1 Youngcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Served as Art Director at London’s Renowned RUSH SALON and nominated by the Guardian for “Best Hairdresser”

MUSEUM & GALLERIES National Museum of Korea (02) 2077-9000 • 168-6 Yongsandong 6-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The NMK offers educational programs on Korean history and culture in English and Korean.

National Palace Museum of Korea (02) 3701-7500 • 12 Hyoja-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul This museum has a program called Experiencing Royal Culture designed for English teachers to help learn about Joseon royal culture.

Seodaemun Museum of Natural History (02) 330-8899 • 141-52 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Don’t know where to take your kids on weekends? This museum exhibits a snapshot of the world and animals.

National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea (02) 2188-6000 • 313 Gwangmyeong-ro, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do

Trained at Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy in UK Color, Perm, Magic Straight, Treatment and more English Spoken For more info, call Johnny Phone 02.363.4253 Mobile 010.5586.0243

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Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (02) 2014-6901• 747-18 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays.

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10-6, Dosan-daero 45-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

DRAMA

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Kumho Museum (02) 720-5114 • 78 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays.

Gallery Hyundai (02) 734-6111~3 • 22 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul The first specialized art gallery in Korea and accommodates contemporary art.

10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, NewC Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays.

M Y Plateau (02) 1577-7595 CM • 50 Taepyung-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p. m. Closed on Mondays. MY

National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul (MMCA SEOUL) (02) 3701-9500 • 30 Samcheong-ro, Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

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AMUSEMENT PARKS

Animal hospitals

Daegu Art Museum (053) 790-3000 • 374 Samdeok-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu Art space for local culture presenting Daegu’s contemporary fine arts and internationally renowned artists.

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Eton House Prep (02) 749-8011 • 68-3 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique British-style Prep School for children of all nationalities from 2-13 years of age.

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