Rias Baixas: In the Press 2021 - 2022

IN THE PRESS 2021 - 2022

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June 23, 2022 Circulation: 3,941 Social

Instagram | Bri’s Best Bottles: June Edition @sommspirations | Brianne Cohen

June 23, 2022 Circulation: 3,941 Social

Instagram | Bri’s Best Bottles: June Edition @sommspirations | Brianne Cohen

June 22, 2022 Circulation: 9,500 E-Newsletter

E-Newsletter | Bri’s Best Bottles: June Edition Brianne Cohen

The Capital | Wednesday, June 15, 2022

Flavor LIBATIONS

Celebrate Father’s Day with these special wines Tom Marquardt & Patrick Darr

This Sunday is Father’s Day, a time for us to pay tribute to a significant person who shaped our lives. Not everyone has had a positive relationship with their father. But for those of us who cherish fond memories of times with dad, this is a good time to recognize how much he influenced you.

The wine world is replete with father-son relationships — and many of them are rocky. Cesare Mondavi had to keep rival sons apart. Michel Chapoutier of the Rhone Valley and Angelo Gaja of Barbaresco upended their father’s winemaking philosophy and suffered paternal wrath despite their success. Barolo’s Elio Altare made so many changes he was cut out of his father’s will.

But there have been as many positive transi-tions from father to son. Joseph Carr appreciated his father’s work ethic, so much so that he named his winery after his father Josh. Jerry Lohr’s family just released a premium wine in tribute of his 85th birthday. Georges and Daniel Daou’s fabulous “Soul of the Lion” is a trib-ute to their father.

We have fond memories of Chris Bilbro, the bril-liant winemaker behind Marietta Cellars in Sonoma County. Today, son Scot is leading Marietta; son Jake bought Limerick Lane winery in 2011. They never lose sight of their father’s inspiration.

Not all success stories are made of male bonds. We remember meeting a very young Juliette Becot many years ago in Bordeaux. She had to compete with older brothers to prove to her father she was capable of making good wine. Even-tually, her father, Gerard, gave in and bought her a château. He gave her a pair of boots and wished her good luck. She worked hard in those boots to prove herself and today she manages three proper-ties, including her father’s St. Emillon Premier Grand Cru Classe location. The wine, graced by a pink foil at the top, is a testament to perseverance.

And we would be remiss not mentioning Vero-nique Drouhin Boss and her brother Philippe who learned the trade from their father, Robert of Maison Drouhin, while growing up in Beaune. Today they are a team at the highly success-ful Domaine Drouhin in Oregon’s Willamette Valley.

There are so many other successful stories of how fathers inspired their sons and daughters to follow in their footsteps in making wine. If you’re looking for something symbolic of your own relationship with your father, consider these extraordinary wines made with family love.

DAOU Estate Soul of a Lion 2019 ($170).

Georges and Daniel Daou have a great appreciation for Father’s Day. The Daou brothers behind this label are releasing this wine in honor of their late father’s birthday. “Soul of the Lion” refers to him, an inspiration and driving force that saved the family from war in Lebanon. The Paso Robles blend is 78% cabernet sauvignon, 12% cabernet franc and 10% petit verdot. Layers of fruit range from cherries to blackberries with hints of tobacco and anise. Full bodied with fine tannins and length.

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June 15, 2022 Circulation: 2,084,955 Digital

Wine, etc.: Celebrate Father’s Day with one of these special wines Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr This Sunday is Father’s Day, a time for us to pay tribute to a significant person who shaped our lives. Not everyone has had a positive relationship with their father – some don’t even know who he is. But for those of us who cherish fond memories of times with dad, this is a good time to recognize how much he influenced you.

The wine world is replete with father-son relationships – and many of them are rocky. Cesare Mondavi had to keep rival sons apart. Michel Chapoutier of the Rhone Valley and Angelo Gaja of Barbaresco upended their father’s winemaking philosophy and suffered paternal wrath despite their success. Barolo’s Elio Altare made so many changes he was cut out of his father’s will.

But there have been as many positive transitions from father to son. Joseph Carr appreciated his father’s work ethic, so much so that he named his winery after his father Josh. Jerry Lohr’s family just released a premium wine in tribute of his 85th birthday. Georges and Daniel Daou’s fabulous “Soul of the Lion” is a tribute to their father.

There are so many other successful stories of how fathers inspired their sons and daughters to follow in their footsteps in making wine. If you’re looking for something symbolic of your own relationship with your father, consider these extraordinary wines made with family love.

Wine picks Pazo de Lusco Albarino 2021 ($25).

From the Rias Baixas region of northern Spain, this wine is delicious by itself with aromatics and acidity to foil the heat, but it’s a nice wine to serve with simple foods. Apple and pear notes.

June 15, 2022 Circulation: 238,362 Digital

Wine, etc.: Celebrate Father’s Day with one of these special wines Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr This Sunday is Father’s Day, a time for us to pay tribute to a significant person who shaped our lives. Not everyone has had a positive relationship with their father – some don’t even know who he is. But for those of us who cherish fond memories of times with dad, this is a good time to recognize how much he influenced you.

The wine world is replete with father-son relationships – and many of them are rocky. Cesare Mondavi had to keep rival sons apart. Michel Chapoutier of the Rhone Valley and Angelo Gaja of Barbaresco upended their father’s winemaking philosophy and suffered paternal wrath despite their success. Barolo’s Elio Altare made so many changes he was cut out of his father’s will.

But there have been as many positive transitions from father to son. Joseph Carr appreciated his father’s work ethic, so much so that he named his winery after his father Josh. Jerry Lohr’s family just released a premium wine in tribute of his 85th birthday. Georges and Daniel Daou’s fabulous “Soul of the Lion” is a tribute to their father.

There are so many other successful stories of how fathers inspired their sons and daughters to follow in their footsteps in making wine. If you’re looking for something symbolic of your own relationship with your father, consider these extraordinary wines made with family love.

Wine picks Pazo de Lusco Albarino 2021 ($25).

From the Rias Baixas region of northern Spain, this wine is delicious by itself with aromatics and acidity to foil the heat, but it’s a nice wine to serve with simple foods. Apple and pear notes.

June 12, 2022 Circulation: 72,040 Digital

Father’s Day Wines Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr This Sunday is Father’s Day, a time for us to pay tribute to a significant person who shaped our lives. Not everyone has had a positive relationship with their father – some don’t even know who he is. But for those of us who cherish fond memories of times with dad, this is a good time to recognize how much he influenced you.

The wine world is replete with father-son relationships – and many of them are rocky. Cesare Mondavi had to keep rival sons apart. Michel Chapoutier of the Rhone Valley and Angelo Gaja of Barbaresco upended their father’s winemaking philosophy and suffered paternal wrath despite their success. Barolo’s Elio Altare made so many changes he was cut out of his father’s will.

But there have been as many positive transitions from father to son. Joseph Carr appreciated his father’s work ethic, so much so that he named his winery after his father Josh. Jerry Lohr’s family just released a premium wine in tribute of his 85th birthday. Georges and Daniel Daou’s fabulous “Soul of the Lion” is a tribute to their father.

There are so many other successful stories of how fathers inspired their sons and daughters to follow in their footsteps in making wine. If you’re looking for something symbolic of your own relationship with your father, consider these extraordinary wines made with family love.

Wine picks Pazo de Lusco Albarino 2021 ($25).

From the Rias Baixas region of northern Spain, this wine is delicious by itself with aromatics and acidity to foil the heat, but it’s a nice wine to serve with simple foods. Apple and pear notes.

June 8, 2022 Circulation: 3,485 Digital

The Rain in Spain Tim Atkin, MW In English, it’s just drizzle. In Spanish, it’s more graphic. The literal translation of “calabobos” is something that soaks fools.

Rather than a downpour – the sort of weather that sends you scurrying for a doorway – it’s the kind of rain that you barely notice, the stuff that drenches your clothes, drip by drip by drip.

Rías Baixas is one of the wettest wine regions on earth, a place where 1,100mm of precipitation is considered a dry year, and it too has a way of getting under your skin without you noticing. Only this time, the experience is much more enjoyable, drawing you into the landscape, the food, the people and the wines. Spend a week here and you can see why Galicians who live overseas talk of “saudade”, of homesickness.

The first time I visited Rías Baixas was in 1997. It’s remarkable how the region has grown. Twenty-five years ago, there were three sub-regions – Val do Salnés, O Rosal and Condado do Tea. Now there are five, with Ribeira do Ulla and Soutomaior added to meet worldwide demand. The number of bodegas has mushroomed from 132 to 181, and plantings have almost trebled to their current 4,200 hectares. One local source predicts that the figure will top 6,000 by the end of the decade.

Albariño has been grown in Galicia for centuries, but it wasn’t always the dominant variety. In the early 1970s, long before the Rías Baixas Denominación de Origen was created in 1988, red grapes outnumbered whites by a factor of four to one and Espadeiro held the top spot. These days Albariño accounts for 95% of plantings, way ahead of the other dozen permitted red and white varieties. The boom began in the early 1990s and shows no sign of abating. Galicians proudly talk of the diversity that exists in their vineyards, but there are many where Albariño is a mono-culture. However good the other wines may be – and the best reds and white blends are really exciting – it’s Albariño that drives demand.

Albariño is responsible for some of Spain and the world’s greatest and longest-lived whites. I recently tasted a remarkably sprightly 1997 Pazo de Señorans Selección de Añada that would make a lot of white Burgundies blush. But it’s also a variety that has entered the mainstream and continues to attract new drinkers: less obvious than Sauvignon Blanc, less bland than Pinot Grigio, less austere than Riesling, fresher than Chardonnay.

Rías Baixas’s greatest asset is also surprisingly diverse. It can be oaked or unwooded, fruity and easy going or structured and dense, made with or without skin contact, allowed to go through malolactic fermentation or not. Most of them are bone dry, but I’ve also tasted sweet, orange and sparkling versions of Albariño. It’s a one-man band of a grape.

There are also huge differences between sub-regional styles, influenced by soil type, altitude, rainfall, sunshine hours, vineyard orientation and proximity to the rivers, estuaries and the Atlantic Ocean that are such important features of Rías Baixas’ unique terroir.

Individual winemakers interpret the grape in their own way, too. Taste a line-up that features bottlings from some of the best – Albamar, Fefiñanes, Forjas de Salnés, Lagar de Costa, Notas Frutales de Albariño, Pazo de Señorans, Santiago Roma and Zárate are my favourites – and you begin to understand the complexity and nobility of Albariño.

Are there any clouds on the horizon for Rías Baixas? Climate change is one. Andrew McCarthy of Castro Martín describes the weather in recent vintages as “topsy-turvy”. But despite the comparatively dry growing season so far in 2022, it’s hard to see Rías Baixas resorting to irrigation any time soon, let alone switching en masse to organic viticulture. Overall, the warmer summers and autumns, like the lower rainfall, have been a boon for the region, but it’s still a pretty wet place.

A bigger potential problem is that Rías Baixas could become a victim of its own success. Demand for land and grapes is so intense that the price of both is spiralling. The arrival of Vega Sicilia, Spain’s most prestigious bodega, has been one factor, but most of the increases are driven by scarcity. In 2020, grapes sold for €1.50 a kilo; this year, one big company has already signed contracts to pay its growers €3. Producers will be forced to ask more for their wines or lose money.

Consumers are prepared to pay more to drink Albariño, but how much more? Over the next few vintages, we’re about to find out.

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April 29, 2022 Digital

Albariño Wines of Rías Baixas, a Favorite of Chefs and Somms, Sponsor Spring Restaurant Drive in Miami, Charleston, DC and San Francisco Press Release The participating restaurants in the spring promotion for Albariño wines of Rías Baixas are as follows: Fiola – Miami; A16 – San Francisco; Estadio – Charleston; and Estadio – Washington, DC. Click here to review the range of Albariño selections available to sample this spring and find out more about the growers behind these popular white wines.

Known for their elegant white wines, D.O. Rías Baixas occupies a lush green corridor of northwest Spain on the cool, Atlantic coast, an area known as Galicia that is the original birthplace of the Albariño variety. Ample rainfall makes it tough to ripen reds but suits the native Albariño grapes to perfection. The wines are crisp, light, and fresh, with hints of sea spray and minerality, and a well-balanced acidity that make them a perfect pairing for many dishes.

Beverage Director Daniel Bishop of Fiola in Miami is one of the many sommelier fans of Albariño and is featuring them this spring at the Coral Gables hot spot. Bishop “likes the freshness, acidity, and brightness of the wines, with the salinity and citrus notes.” Bishop recommends Albariño with the classic crudo and raw bar selection at Fiola, a nod to the renowned seafood from Galician waters. Beverage Director Brandon Underwood of Estadio Charleston also appreciates the versatility and “refreshing oceanic brightness” of Albariño. Like many around town, Underwood finds that Albariño wines are “at home in Charleston,” which shares an Atlantic coastline and a lively Spanish food scene with the Rías Baixas region.

A true people pleaser of a wine, Albariño is complex, aromatic and tasty. The wines pair beautifully with the Spanish menu at Estadio Charleston and Estadio DC but are equally well-matched with the coal-fired pizza at A16 in San Francisco, known for their gold standard Neapolitan method and family-friendly atmosphere.

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April 30, 2022 Circulation: 10,000 Digital

Albariño: 5 Great Reasons to Embrace Rias Baixas Tim Pawsey Albariño, in the grand scheme of things, is a grape you may not have heard too much about, In the grand scheme of things it’s one of the world’s lesser known wine varieties. However, while production remains relatively small, Albariño really punches above its weight.

Albariño is also one of those varieties that personifies from where it comes. It transports you right to Galicia. In fact there are few other parts of the world that make such a singular variety that’s such a convincing ambassador.

The more wine you taste you’ll discover that the less commercialized varieties often surprisingly reward. There are more than a few good reasons to track down this fresh-tasting Spanish white.

1. It comes from a really ‘cool’ place Almost all of the world’s Albarino is grown in Rias Baixas, Galicia in northwest Spain—just ‘above’ Portugal. Galicia is renowned for its rugged coastline, friendly people, amazing seafood—and its Albariño. Washed by a moist, Atlantic influence, in marked contrast to most other parts of Spain, it’s a lush and fertile land. And, yes, it’s an intriguing wine region.

Rias Baixas means, literally, ‘the lower rivers’—or inlets, as the region is defined by four wide estuaries. They include the River Miño, that marks the border between Spain and Portugal. Most of the grapes are grown either within sight of or very close to the ocean. Elevations generally around 150 m. though some plantings are higher.

The marine damp flows in from nearby Cape Finisterre, one of northern Europe’s westernmost points. To thwart the moisture, traditionally, vines have been trained over giant canopies known as ‘Pergola.’

Pergola exist for another very practical reason. They allowed the family to run chickens or other livestock under the vines. High wires are anchored by granite or concrete posts (parras), because wood rots so quickly. The height improves circulation to fight mildew and also helps in ripening. (More standard trellising is used in some areas where vineyards are more protected.)

Granite is everywhere, from buildings to hedgerow walls and market crosses. That’s why it can sometimes feel more like Cornwall than Spain. It’s no coincidence that there’s more than a casual Celtic connection here. Being blown off course due north could land you in the Scilly Isles or County Kerry. And the reverse is true. There might be just a few more redheads here than elsewhere in Spain.

2. It’s one of the oldest known wine grapes Albariño is renowned for its delicate floral aromas, crisp acidity and often pronounced minerality. It can also sport a gently saline quality that’s unique in its marine personality. Until recently the variety’s origins remained a mystery. For a long time Albariño was thought to have been brought to Galicia by French monks in the 12th century. However, since the discovery of new salt flat sites with evidence of Roman and medieval winemaking it’s now considered indigenous. Scientists analyzed seeds and plant material to support their findings. The vines thrive in the moist setting, with early bud-break and early ripening. The poor, rocky soils help to control the vigour.

While grapes have been grown in Galicia for millennia the modern industry dates from 1980, when an official denomination was created specifically for Albariño. It was formalised (in 1988) to DOC Rias Baixas, after Spain joined the EU. There are now five sub-regions which grow 14 permitted varieties in all. However, Albariño rules, with more than 90 percent of plantings.

3. There’s a 50/50 chance it was made by a woman winemaker In a world-wide industry where men still dominate about half of Rias Baixas winemakers are women. How come? Viticulture and winemaking are all part of farming that women have nurtured for years. In this largely seafaring community men were away for months at a time. It was the women who kept things going at home. That included sustaining the crops—including vines.

Galician fisherwomen (mariscadoras) have picked the local clams and cockles for centuries. And the tradition has been handed down from mother to daughter. No surprise that they’re involved in all aspects of modern viticulture and enology.

There’s also another reason. Over the last couple of decades Rias Baixas has grown from just a handful of wineries to 179.

Moreover, female university enrolment in winemaking and viticulture has increased by 40%.

Rias Baixas has an extraordinary number of growers (5,500) and vineyard plots (21,285). They provide a broad foundation for the region’s co-ops. Martin Codax alone is made up of 600 growers and 2,500 plots.

Overall, women are playing more prominent roles, including commercially and in the boardroom. The last time I visited Rias Baixas it was indeed apparent. that Galicia is a refreshingly matriarchal society.

4. Albariño is a shoo-in for seafood!

When (not if!) you visit Galicia you’ll discover arguably some of the best seafood on Earth. No surprise when you consider that about 90 percent of the region is bounded by 1,500 kms. of Atlantic coastline.

The array of species is quite extraordinary. It includes Shrimp, Langoustine, Cockles, Mussels, Clams and (superb) Razor Clams, Gooseneck barnacles, Spider and Velvet crabs, Swimming scallops, and last but not least, Octopus (Pulpo). And those are just the crustaceans and bivalves. Mackerel, Sardine, Anchovy, Tuna, Seabream are among the species fished.

Albariño happens to offer the best seafood pairing of any wine around. Even more so when you discover that unique hint of salinity which makes an extra connection. In the absence of being able to travel to Galicia (at least for now), Abariño is also a great match for our own wealth of BC seafood.

5. Albariño ages beautifully All too often the opportunity to age white is ignored. During my last visit to Rias Baixas we were lucky to taste quite a few older Albariños. But they’re generally hard to come across as the emphasis tends to be on the current vintage. However, this is changing as more producers are playing with different styles and building their libraries. Keep an eye out for some older vintages, particularly in wines such as the Granbazan, below.

These wines—that take Albariño to the next level—are all well worth tracking down.

Veiga Naúm Albariño 2021 Grown in the traditional manner on concrete supported pergola. (Originally granite was used but is now too expensive; employed mainly for aesthetics.) The canopy height ranges between 1.8 and 2.0 metres. Picking usually requires stools and a fair degree of endurance and athleticism! This vineyard in the centre of Valle del Salnés is about 4 hectares. The wine shows the cooler vintage well. It also displays some classic saline qualities, with stonefruit, mineral, citrus and floral notes. Defined by excellent acidity with good mouthfeel and a lengthy end. A very good varietal example. 91 pts. Watch for it soon.

Bodegas Granbazan Ambar 2019, DO Rias Baixas, Galicia Granbazan is a gravity-fed winery housed in a dramatic, neoclassical chateau-styled palace in the Salnes Valley. It’s on the central coast of Rias Baixas, just northwest of historic Pontevedra. Made from old vines Albariño, vibrant aromatics of stone fruit and tropical notes precede a lush, viscose and layered palate. Peach and apricot, with stony and shist notes—plus an element of that unique saline character to close. Perfect with octopus in spicy Galician sauce. 93 pts. Available at Liberty Wines, also SAQ. Bodegas Granbazan Ambar 2020, DO Rias Baixas, Galicia Lifted floral, tropical and stonefruit with some honeyed hints. A generous palate that evolves nicely as it warms, good tension and quite viscose with peach notes and definite stony undertones, as well as the hallmark saline element. Well suited to aging. 92 pts.

Bodegas Fillaboa Finca Monte Alto Albariño 2015, Rias Baixas, Galicia A great example of how this variety can evolve in just a few years. From old vines (1988) on a south-facing sunny site high (150m.) above the north bank of the Minho.

The site is 50 kms. inland and quite sheltered. Aged on lees for 12 months. Forward orchard fruit, tropical and citrus hints before a palate of baked apple and pear, honeyed notes, and great fruit intensity. Generously textured, well structured, buoyed by fruit and acidity in perfect balance over mineral hints through the finish. BCLS $39.99 (2017 in stock) 93 pts.

Adegas Valmiñor Davila 2018, Rias Baixas, Galicia A blend of Albariño, Loureiro and Treixadura from O Rosal sub-region.

Grown on sandy, alluvial and granitic soils close to the mouth of the River Miño. Up front floral and tropical notes with mango and pineapple flavours, plus some herbal hints and a touch of minerality. Amazing with truffle potato chips. ;-) Excellent value at BCLS $23.99 91 pts

April 21, 2022 Circulation: 100,000,000 Digital

This vibrant $12 rosé delivers springtime in each sip Dave McIntyre

As spring weather finally takes over from old man winter, pandemic-related supply chain woes may delay the arrival of the 2021 rosés. No worries - there are still some delicious 2020s on the market to brighten our palates. They are a good reminder not to dismiss rosés in their second year after vintage. The freshness may soften a little, but often more fruit and body emerge. We also have an outstanding affordable pinot noir from Chile, a rich red blend from southern France and an electrifying albariño from Spain.

Bodegas del Palacio de Fefiñanes Albariño 2020 (Three stars) Rias Baixas, Spain, $29 Wow - intense and minerally, yet full of ripe notes of peaches, apricots and nectarines, this is an outstanding albariño. Enjoy it with your favorite seafood, and if you can restrain yourself, stretch it over several nights. The wine becomes more expressive, an indicator that any bottles you can refrain from opening should age well over the next few years.

ABV: 13.5%. BW: 650 grams (Average).

April 21, 2022 Circulation: 20,000,000 Digital

This vibrant $12 rosé delivers springtime in each sip Dave McIntyre

As spring weather finally takes over from old man winter, pandemic-related supply chain woes may delay the arrival of the 2021 rosés. No worries - there are still some delicious 2020s on the market to brighten our palates. They are a good reminder not to dismiss rosés in their second year after vintage. The freshness may soften a little, but often more fruit and body emerge. We also have an outstanding affordable pinot noir from Chile, a rich red blend from southern France and an electrifying albariño from Spain.

Bodegas del Palacio de Fefiñanes Albariño 2020 (Three stars) Rias Baixas, Spain, $29 Wow - intense and minerally, yet full of ripe notes of peaches, apricots and nectarines, this is an outstanding albariño. Enjoy it with your favorite seafood, and if you can restrain yourself, stretch it over several nights. The wine becomes more expressive, an indicator that any bottles you can refrain from opening should age well over the next few years.

ABV: 13.5%. BW: 650 grams (Average).

April 21, 2022 Circulation: 15,000,000 Digital

This vibrant $12 rosé delivers springtime in each sip Dave McIntyre

As spring weather finally takes over from old man winter, pandemic-related supply chain woes may delay the arrival of the 2021 rosés. No worries - there are still some delicious 2020s on the market to brighten our palates. They are a good reminder not to dismiss rosés in their second year after vintage. The freshness may soften a little, but often more fruit and body emerge. We also have an outstanding affordable pinot noir from Chile, a rich red blend from southern France and an electrifying albariño from Spain.

Bodegas del Palacio de Fefiñanes Albariño 2020 (Three stars) Rias Baixas, Spain, $29 Wow - intense and minerally, yet full of ripe notes of peaches, apricots and nectarines, this is an outstanding albariño. Enjoy it with your favorite seafood, and if you can restrain yourself, stretch it over several nights. The wine becomes more expressive, an indicator that any bottles you can refrain from opening should age well over the next few years.

ABV: 13.5%. BW: 650 grams (Average).

April 21, 2022 Circulation: 150,000 Digital

This vibrant $12 rosé delivers springtime in each sip Dave McIntyre

As spring weather finally takes over from old man winter, pandemic-related supply chain woes may delay the arrival of the 2021 rosés. No worries - there are still some delicious 2020s on the market to brighten our palates. They are a good reminder not to dismiss rosés in their second year after vintage. The freshness may soften a little, but often more fruit and body emerge. We also have an outstanding affordable pinot noir from Chile, a rich red blend from southern France and an electrifying albariño from Spain.

Bodegas del Palacio de Fefiñanes Albariño 2020 (Three stars) Rias Baixas, Spain, $29 Wow - intense and minerally, yet full of ripe notes of peaches, apricots and nectarines, this is an outstanding albariño. Enjoy it with your favorite seafood, and if you can restrain yourself, stretch it over several nights. The wine becomes more expressive, an indicator that any bottles you can refrain from opening should age well over the next few years.

ABV: 13.5%. BW: 650 grams (Average).

April 25, 2022 Circulation: 950,000 Digital

Wine pairing from SOMM Wines: Garlic goes Galician with Albarino wine Krista Matthes Garlic is such a fragrant, alluring ingredient. Its aroma invades my senses like a warm embrace, rushing childhood memories to the surface. I think of my mother’s kitchen on a Sunday afternoon, or my grandmother’s homemade spaghetti sauce. Its flavors enhance so many different types of cuisine, it can feel overwhelming to pair wines – too many to choose! Look to a robust secondary flavor in a recipe to help narrow down the wine selection. Today, the addition of dry sherry adds further relevance and points me in the right direction, or location: Spain.

Like Champagne, sherry is named for and exclusively produced in one region – Jerez, Spain. During the Moorish period, the city was called Sherish and produced the first brandy and fortified wine, made by adding wine spirit to fermented grape juice. By the 16th century, Magellan, Shakespeare and Columbus all hailed sherry as the finest wine in the world. It ranges in flavor from dry to sweet and in nuttiness from green almond to walnut.

Now, you might be wondering: “Does she want me to cook with the dry sherry or drink it?” When wine is used as an ingredient, you can pair the dish with the wine used, like a Chardonnay and beurre blanc sauce. Other times, the recipe may benefit from the addition of “high notes,” specifically acidity or bitterness. For this recipe, there’s only one winning wine for this sommelier, and it continues our Spanish connection: Albariño.

The Albariño grape grows so vigorously in the autonomous region of Galicia, in Northwestern Spain, that 90 percent of the vines there are dedicated to it. This is out of love for the grape, not ease of production. Because this thick-skinned white grape easily develops rot and mildew, it requires a unique vineyard design. Vintners erect giant pergolas to elevate the vines from the damp vineyard floor.

Although the clusters thrive in sunshine, the coastal winds keep the grapes cool, allowing sugars to remain low and acidity high. Albariño’s smaller individual grape size produces a pith full of slightly bitter notes: green almond and lemon rind, both classic characteristics of the wine. This is where the wine pairing and our memories come into focus.

When asked to describe an Albariño wine, I tell my guests to remember that first, fresh-squeezed lemonade from childhood. It’s tart, refreshing and a bit of a punch to the taste buds. This is the Albariño grape in a nutshell. Lemon pulp, minerality, salinity, with a kiss of green apple and fresh almond. A sommelier could not ask for a better match.

Here at my wine store and lounge, SOMM Wines in Fairfield, the Pedralonga, “Serea,” Albariño, Rias Baixas 2019 ($ 25.99) highlights the dry sherry’s almond component while elevating the intense garlic flavors in the recipe below. Garlic and lemon are natural partners in the culinary world. The ample blast of lemon fruit leads with bright acidity, begging the palate for another taste. This Spanish duo should provide new culinary memories for years to come.

April 25, 2022 Circulation: 15,000 Digital

Wine pairing from SOMM Wines: Garlic goes Galician with Albarino wine Krista Matthes Garlic is such a fragrant, alluring ingredient. Its aroma invades my senses like a warm embrace, rushing childhood memories to the surface. I think of my mother’s kitchen on a Sunday afternoon, or my grandmother’s homemade spaghetti sauce. Its flavors enhance so many different types of cuisine, it can feel overwhelming to pair wines – too many to choose! Look to a robust secondary flavor in a recipe to help narrow down the wine selection. Today, the addition of dry sherry adds further relevance and points me in the right direction, or location: Spain.

Like Champagne, sherry is named for and exclusively produced in one region – Jerez, Spain. During the Moorish period, the city was called Sherish and produced the first brandy and fortified wine, made by adding wine spirit to fermented grape juice. By the 16th century, Magellan, Shakespeare and Columbus all hailed sherry as the finest wine in the world. It ranges in flavor from dry to sweet and in nuttiness from green almond to walnut.

Now, you might be wondering: “Does she want me to cook with the dry sherry or drink it?” When wine is used as an ingredient, you can pair the dish with the wine used, like a Chardonnay and beurre blanc sauce. Other times, the recipe may benefit from the addition of “high notes,” specifically acidity or bitterness. For this recipe, there’s only one winning wine for this sommelier, and it continues our Spanish connection: Albariño.

The Albariño grape grows so vigorously in the autonomous region of Galicia, in Northwestern Spain, that 90 percent of the vines there are dedicated to it. This is out of love for the grape, not ease of production. Because this thick-skinned white grape easily develops rot and mildew, it requires a unique vineyard design. Vintners erect giant pergolas to elevate the vines from the damp vineyard floor.

Although the clusters thrive in sunshine, the coastal winds keep the grapes cool, allowing sugars to remain low and acidity high. Albariño’s smaller individual grape size produces a pith full of slightly bitter notes: green almond and lemon rind, both classic characteristics of the wine. This is where the wine pairing and our memories come into focus.

When asked to describe an Albariño wine, I tell my guests to remember that first, fresh-squeezed lemonade from childhood. It’s tart, refreshing and a bit of a punch to the taste buds. This is the Albariño grape in a nutshell. Lemon pulp, minerality, salinity, with a kiss of green apple and fresh almond. A sommelier could not ask for a better match.

Here at my wine store and lounge, SOMM Wines in Fairfield, the Pedralonga, “Serea,” Albariño, Rias Baixas 2019 ($ 25.99) highlights the dry sherry’s almond component while elevating the intense garlic flavors in the recipe below. Garlic and lemon are natural partners in the culinary world. The ample blast of lemon fruit leads with bright acidity, begging the palate for another taste. This Spanish duo should provide new culinary memories for years to come.

April 21, 2022 Circulation: 50,000,000 Digital

DO Rías Baixas Sales to Canada Increase 93% Led by Popularity of Albariño Wines with Consumers and Wine Professionals Press Release The Spanish wine region of DO Rías Baixas has reported that 2021 sales of their renowned Albariño white wines have nearly doubled in the Canadian market since 2017. Over the last five years, exports of DO Rías Baixas wines to Canada have increased 93% by volume to 318,336 liters, and 93% by value to $2.6 million, as reported in year-end 2021 sales data. Canada is the 6th largest export market for DO Rías Baixas, outpacing other key Spanish wine markets such as Germany and Mexico.

The growth in Canadian exports reflects continued consumer appreciation for the Albariño white wines of DO Rías Baixas. The results are particularly noteworthy given the continuing challenges in the hospitality sector related to COVID and supply chain delays.

Analysts in the DO Rías Baixas region credit Canadian sales growth to consistent quality recognition and demand for Albariño wines. Consumers are willing to spend more for the ever-popular Albariño, a native grape variety which traces its origins to the Galician region on the Atlantic Coast of northwest Spain. Crisp and refreshing to taste with pronounced citrus, stone fruit and floral aromas, the Albariño wines of Rías Baixas are a sommelier favorite with strong distribution in the SAQ, LCBO and BCLIQUOR stores.

DO Rías Baixas wines outperformed the Spanish wine category in Canada over the same 5-year time period; Spanish wine sales to Canada grew 23% by volume, and 29% by value (2017 to 2021). To support growth in the Canadian market, DO Rías Baixas launched a marketing and trade education program in 2019 to position Rías Baixas as world-class white wines on par with the best of France, New Zealand and other regions.

The Canada results reflect an overall positive global trend for DO Rías Baixas. 107 of the region's 179 wineries export wine to over 70 countries worldwide. Many of the wineries are small, family-owned ventures and exports represent a dynamic contribution to economic impact throughout Galicia. On a global basis, 2021 exports of Rías Baixas grew 17% in volume to 9.48 million liters and 27.5% in value to reach $77 million, an outstanding global sales result for the region. Perceptions of quality (as measured by increased value) are also very favorable as wineries reported an increase of 9% in the average price per liter as compared to the previous year of reporting.

DO Rias Baixas : 2021 Wine Exports by Country Country 2021 Volume Liters 1 USA 2,667,600 2 UK 2,273,718 3 Pureto Rico 504,318 4 Ireland 502,940 5 Holland 384,489 6 Canada 318,336 7 Germany 307,495 8 Mexico 283,299 9 Sweden 270,299 10 Switzerland 226,841 11 Other Countries 1,743,623 Total 9,483,091

April 12, 2022 Circulation: 271,300 Digital

Clemens: White oak crisis Gus Clemons American white oak is unique to the United States, essential to bourbon production, important in wine production, and threatened.

There is no snap-your-fingers solution. White oaks need 60-90 years to mature into trees suitable for barrel production. We may have as little as a 30-year supply.

Jackie Zykan, master taster for Old Forester Bourbon, notes: “American white oak is synonymous with bourbon for me.

Using a different kind of wood would change the flavor entirely. The wood has a high vanillin content, oak lactone, and wood sugars. Very different than other woods. It also helps give American bourbon its amber hue.”

The wine industry uses white oak but is not as dependent upon it as the bourbon industry. American white oak tends to be more dense and less porous than French oak. American oak allows more of the tree to be used in barrel making. Compared to French oak, American white oak is higher in lactones and vanillin, which imparts sweeter flavors of vanilla and coconut.

French oak has more tannins. Winemakers often finish their wines in a mixture of American and French oak for this reason.

Winemakers can use English and Hungarian oak, Italian chestnut, stainless steel, concrete, and amphora to finish wine— albeit each with different results. The wine world is not in the panic of bourbon/whiskey world, but winemakers certainly are concerned.

Both industries responded by forming the White Oak Initiative. While there are about 104 million acres of white oak forestland, some 75 percent of those tree are classified mature. Surveys show 60 percent of American white oak acreage has no white oak seedlings and 87 percent no white oak saplings. Other trees, mainly maple and beech, are taking over.

Involved parties responded. Bulleit Frontier Whiskey pledged to plant one million white oak trees over the next five years.

Beam Suntory, Brown-Forman, and Sazerac pledged to source 50 percent of their barrels from sustainably managed forests by 2035. All well and good, and we may dodge the barrel bullet. But it will be a near-run thing.

Tasting notes: Hammeken Cellars Gotas de Mar Albariño, Rias Baixas, Spain 2020 Excellent example of albariño made by a cutting-edge Spanish wine operation with wide distribution. It is light, dry, superb acidity. $18-22

April 12, 2022 Circulation: 238,400 Digital

Gus Clemens: White oak shortage threatens whiskey, wine Gus Clemons American white oak is unique to the United States, essential to bourbon production, important in wine production, and threatened.

There is no snap-your-fingers solution. White oaks need 60-90 years to mature into trees suitable for barrel production. We may have as little as a 30-year supply.

Jackie Zykan, master taster for Old Forester Bourbon, notes: “American white oak is synonymous with bourbon for me.

Using a different kind of wood would change the flavor entirely. The wood has a high vanillin content, oak lactone, and wood sugars. Very different than other woods. It also helps give American bourbon its amber hue.”

The wine industry uses white oak but is not as dependent upon it as the bourbon industry. American white oak tends to be more dense and less porous than French oak. American oak allows more of the tree to be used in barrel making. Compared to French oak, American white oak is higher in lactones and vanillin, which imparts sweeter flavors of vanilla and coconut.

French oak has more tannins. Winemakers often finish their wines in a mixture of American and French oak for this reason.

Winemakers can use English and Hungarian oak, Italian chestnut, stainless steel, concrete, and amphora to finish wine— albeit each with different results. The wine world is not in the panic of bourbon/whiskey world, but winemakers certainly are concerned.

Both industries responded by forming the White Oak Initiative. While there are about 104 million acres of white oak forestland, some 75 percent of those tree are classified mature. Surveys show 60 percent of American white oak acreage has no white oak seedlings and 87 percent no white oak saplings. Other trees, mainly maple and beech, are taking over.

Involved parties responded. Bulleit Frontier Whiskey pledged to plant one million white oak trees over the next five years.

Beam Suntory, Brown-Forman, and Sazerac pledged to source 50 percent of their barrels from sustainably managed forests by 2035. All well and good, and we may dodge the barrel bullet. But it will be a near-run thing.

Tasting notes: Hammeken Cellars Gotas de Mar Albariño, Rias Baixas, Spain 2020 Excellent example of albariño made by a cutting-edge Spanish wine operation with wide distribution. It is light, dry, superb acidity. $18-22

April 12, 2022 Circulation: 209,900 Digital

Wine, bourbon industries work together to save American white oak Gus Clemons American white oak is unique to the United States, essential to bourbon production, important in wine production, and threatened.

There is no snap-your-fingers solution. White oaks need 60-90 years to mature into trees suitable for barrel production. We may have as little as a 30-year supply.

Jackie Zykan, master taster for Old Forester Bourbon, notes: “American white oak is synonymous with bourbon for me.

Using a different kind of wood would change the flavor entirely. The wood has a high vanillin content, oak lactone, and wood sugars. Very different than other woods. It also helps give American bourbon its amber hue.”

The wine industry uses white oak but is not as dependent upon it as the bourbon industry. American white oak tends to be more dense and less porous than French oak. American oak allows more of the tree to be used in barrel making. Compared to French oak, American white oak is higher in lactones and vanillin, which imparts sweeter flavors of vanilla and coconut.

French oak has more tannins. Winemakers often finish their wines in a mixture of American and French oak for this reason.

Winemakers can use English and Hungarian oak, Italian chestnut, stainless steel, concrete, and amphora to finish wine— albeit each with different results. The wine world is not in the panic of bourbon/whiskey world, but winemakers certainly are concerned.

Both industries responded by forming the White Oak Initiative. While there are about 104 million acres of white oak forestland, some 75 percent of those tree are classified mature. Surveys show 60 percent of American white oak acreage has no white oak seedlings and 87 percent no white oak saplings. Other trees, mainly maple and beech, are taking over.

Involved parties responded. Bulleit Frontier Whiskey pledged to plant one million white oak trees over the next five years.

Beam Suntory, Brown-Forman, and Sazerac pledged to source 50 percent of their barrels from sustainably managed forests by 2035. All well and good, and we may dodge the barrel bullet. But it will be a near-run thing.

Tasting notes: Hammeken Cellars Gotas de Mar Albariño, Rias Baixas, Spain 2020 Excellent example of albariño made by a cutting-edge Spanish wine operation with wide distribution. It is light, dry, superb acidity. $18-22

April 1, 2022 Circulation: 1,300,000 Digital

Wine Review: Granbazán 2020 Etiqueta Verde Albariño Mike Desimone Granbazán 2020 Etiqueta Verde Albariño (Rias Baixas) This light, straw-colored wine features aromas of white peach and honeysuckle.

Flavors of pineapple and pink grapefruit with a hint of salinity wind down to a floral finish.

March 23, 2022 Circulation: 1,300,000 Digital

Fillaboa: The Production of the Highest Quality Albariño Wines in the Rías Baixas of Spain

Bodegas Fillaboa produces some of the rarest and highest quality wine from the DO Rías Baixas in Spain’s northwest corner.

Fillaboa is focused exclusively on the cultivation of Albariño, the star white wine of the region, famed for its freshness, complexity, and compatibility with local seafood.

In a region where most wineries make wines from purchased grapes, Fillaboa stands apart for its exclusive use of estate-grown fruit, ensuring quality and consistency from vine to bottle. Its historic property, located on the northern slopes of the Miño River, lies only 150 feet from the Portuguese border and 22 miles from the Atlantic Ocean. A famously windy and rainy part of Spain, the vines are trained “en parra”, or in a pergola trellising system, to reach a height of 6-7 feet, thereby decreasing botrytis and increasing wind flow in the vineyards. The granite-rich soil and the cool influence of the nearby Atlantic Ocean make the Fillaboa estate a privileged place for vine-growing.

Bodegas Fillaboa is focused on preserving the primary aromas of the Albariño grape variety. A naturally thick-skinned grape, Albariño produces aromatic and floral white wine with good weight and exuberant freshness. The Albariño wines from Fillaboa exhibit the grape’s trademark minerality, along with orchard fruit, orange blossom, and citrus aromas. Alcoholic fermentation takes place at low temperatures in stainless steel vats, and the wine is then aged sur lees between six to twelve months. Only bentonite is used as a natural clarifying agent. Winemaker Isabel Salgado has gained intimate knowledge of the 74-hectare property (183 acres) and refined the winemaking during her tenure of almost 25 years at the estate. Her mastery of white winemaking is indisputable and is reflected in the elegant and balanced wines she produces each vintage.

The estate’s deep devotion to quality is perfectly displayed in Fillaboa Selección Finca Monte Alto, one of the very few singlevineyard estate wines produced in Rías Baixas, a racy white wine that sings with granite minerality and showcases Albariño’s quintessential freshness. This emblematic vineyard is the highest and sunniest at Bodega Fillaboa, crowning the estate at a height of 500 feet above the Miño River.

The origin of the Fillaboa estate, meaning “the good daughter” in the Galician dialect of northwestern Spain, dates to the seventeenth century. The name comes from a local legend that tells the story of a count who left his best lands to his youngest daughter, “La Hija Buena”. Fillaboa is owned by the Masaveu family since 2000 and is one of five wine elaborating estates that showcase the family’s determination to convey the character of terroir in every bottle. In addition to the winery and vineyards, the Fillaboa estate features a Roman bridge, a stone chapel built in 1909, and a Romanesque palace that houses works of art by Spanish painters from the fifteenth to twentieth century.

March 7, 2022 Circulation: 10,000 Digital

Discover Stunning Rías Baixas and Albariño: Spain’s Coastal Paradise Greig Santos-Buch

When wine-lovers reach for a robust Spanish red, the province of La Rioja is the name that has global brand recognition.

So successful is the reach of the north-eastern Spanish province that Rioja has become almost synonymous with Spanish wine.

When it comes to the realm of Spanish white wines, Albariño is beginning to enjoy similar recognition. Experts have long regarded the grape as among the most complex and interesting European varieties, and consumers are catching up, appreciating it as the perfect accompaniment to seafood and salad. Its clean crisp flavors with high acidity and floral and fruity aromas have made it one of the most fashionable whites globally. Many Californian vineyards are now cultivating their own Albariño vines, as are unexpected wine regions like the Finger Lakes in New York State.

At first glance, the region that helped launch Albariño to prominence (it’s actually native to Eastern Portugal) doesn’t seem conducive to wine production. The wild north-western coastline of Spain, where the wind and rain lash the region of Galicia, is beautiful and mostly unspoiled, but its wet, green, wooded terrain is in stark contrast to most images of a sun-dappled Iberia.

For the visitor, the attraction lies in the small estuary towns sheltering from the Atlantic breezes, and the superb combination of seafood and wine available in their restaurants and bars.

Cambados, the unofficial capital of Albariño country, is a striking example of the Galician character, with one of the region’s most beautiful and photogenic squares, the Praza De Fefiñanes. The architecture is worthy of an Italian city, but is hidden away in this provincial town. The palace, or pazo in the local tongue, dominates one side of the square, next to a pristine baroque bridge, with the picturesque 17th-century church of San Benito occupying the eastern side. God and the grape go hand in hand in these parts, and immediately next to the church is a bodega offering the chance to sample the local Albariño vintages.

Further down the coast, O Grove is a resort municipality dominated by Spanish families who have been coming here for generations. Its annual festival waits until the season is over in October, when the exuberant Festa Do Mariscos celebrates all kinds of shellfish, washed down by the obligatory Albariño, before Galicians batten down the hatches for the winter’s Atlantic storms.

A bridge over the estuary leads to the island of A Toxa, an exclusive spa getaway dating back to the Franco era, now attempting to recast itself as a wellness resort destination, with outlets selling natural soaps and salt scrubs. The tourist picture opportunity here is a chapel encrusted with seashells, although it seems a little gimmicky compared to the elegant austerity of the many Galician village churches.

Vineyard tours are available at some Albariño producers, which stretch south from the major port of Vigo all the way to the Portuguese border. Producers will elaborate on the grape’s origins, most dismissing the notion that it was brought to Galicia

by Cluny monks in the medieval era, and claiming it as a native variety.

After a glass or two, history and culture begin to fade into the background. Albariño is a wine that is at its peak when enjoyed in its local environment. The Rias Baixas region obliges, with numerous elegant but low-key marisquerias or seafood establishments, usually housed in historic stone buildings, offering generous plates of the local marine life, accompanied by the finest Albariño.

Visitors would be advised to follow the local custom and order the sharing plate, or mariscada, laden platters of whatever shellfish is fresh that day, simply prepared with a slice of lemon and a green salad.

To build an appetite for the feast, there are numerous scenic trails offering hikes around the estuaries and beaches of southern Galicia, with a stiff salty breeze keeping the experience refreshing. The obligatory snack accompaniment on any hike is empanada de berberechos, a flat, crisp pastry made with estuary cockles. Probably with a dash of Albariño added, as with every recipe in this corner of Spain.

First-time visitors to the region will find it hard to resist the charms of Galicia, typified by the rugged coast, the verdant rolling hills and the attractive stone-built villages. The climate, and the local language, are far from typically Spanish, but the welcome is invariably warm, and the wine is reliably excellent.

March 7, 2022 Circulation: 10,500 Social

Instagram | Today, Winetraveler is exploring the @riasbaixaswines wine region @winetraveler_com | Greig Santos-Buch

RÍAS BAIXAS: THE LAND OF ALBARIÑO Article by Kristine Mansuy

Immerse

yourself

destination

of

in

Rías

the

fascinating

Baixas

and

wine

discover

Albariño: One of the world’s most prominent indigenous wine grapes!

Located in the North-West of Spain, in the region

of

Galicia,

Rías

Baixas

D.O

(Denominación de Origen) is a pretty recent appellation in the world of wine. Officially recognized in the 1980s, the D.O represents today an average of 4000 ha of vines divided into more than 20 000 plots of vines. Yes, that is correct! Typically, in Galicia, the parcels are extremely small and are owned by many small growers. Winegrowing can be very complex but it is a great challenge for making unique wines that reflects very specific micro-climates.

Don’t be surprised to see vines everywhere in Galicia! On every corner of every street, in the backyard of a hotel or a restaurant, the vineyards are part of the landscape.

Albariño is the most planted grape variety and was first introduced in the Salnès Valley by the French Cluny Monks in the 12th century. Its cultivation then spread to the rest of Galicia and to the north of Portugal. The challenging local climate, along with centuries of viticultural experience, make Albariño wine from the Rías Baixas a unique wine with a distinctive Atlantic character that can’t be found anywhere else in the world!

THE CLIMATE

Unlike the rest of Spain, Galicia is cool, rainy, and green. Vines are mostly trained in the traditional pergola, allowing for maximum sunshine, while keeping the vines away from the humidity of the soil. The vines are located at an altitude between 10m and 50m on mostly granite and sandy soils.

The influence of the Atlantic Ocean allows the wines to express great minerality with a hint of saltiness. Albariño from this part of the world, expresses exotic fruit, citrus, floral notes, and tangy acidity. Some wine lovers would say it has similarities with some Chablis or older Rieslings from Germany. Albariño plantations are growing significantly in other parts of the world such as New Zealand, Uruguay, and North America, making it one of the most prominent indigenous grape varieties in the world.

Rías Baixas D.O is divided in 5 sub-regions:

THE WINES

Val do Salnés, Condado do Tea, O Rosal, Soutomaior and Ribeiro do Ulla. Discover some of the leading wineries of the 3 main appellations

SALNÉS VALLEY Near the town of Cambados, Val do Salnés is considered the birthplace of Albariño. It represents over 60% of the annual Rías Baixas grape production. The area is generally moist, cool, and windy. The coastal location on granitic soils gives wines a lot of fruity character, aromas of citrus, sharp acidity, and salinity.

PAZO DE SEÑORANS Pazo Señorans is a family-owned world-renowned producer focusing on low-yield Albariño wines. Based on a historical site of a rural 14th-century manor, the estate is around 55 hectares of vines divided into over 300 different plots. Surrounded by beautiful gardens and architectural monuments, the winery is a dream location for private venues such as weddings, anniversary parties, and corporate events. Their wines are a benchmark of well-balanced, elegant, and age-worthy Albariños from Rías Baixas. Don’t miss their delicious Aguardiente spirits, it’s absolutely divine!

PAZO SEÑORANS, ALBARIÑO, 2019 Floral, herbal, and mineral nose. Saline acidity, clean and dry palate.

Very classic and elegant Albariño. Enjoy it with a fresh seafood platter!

PAZO SEÑORANS, ALBARIÑO, COLECCIÓN, 2017 Rich and smoky nose of exotic fruits (peach and mango). Round on the palate with a delicate chalky texture. Hints of floral, citrus, and grapefruit aromas.

PAZO SEÑORANS, ALBARIÑO, SELECCIÓN DE AÑADA, 2012 Smoky and mineral nose with delicate aromas of candied apples. Complexity and richness on the palate, with a lot of smoky minerality and a long lingering finish. fruit aromas.

ATTIS BODEGA

Attis Bodega is the project of two brothers, Robustiano and Baldomero Fariña, along with French winemaker Jean François Hebrard. Their vision is to elaborate different wines from single varietals, from a specific winemaking method or a specific vineyard, reflecting all aromas and nuances of their Atlantic terroir. From skin contact whites to barrel and amphora aging Albariños, they also cultivate various indigenous grapes including red varietals such as Sousón, Pedral, and Caïno Tinto. Beyond all limitations, Attis wines are audacious, with a lot of personalities, expressing a more bold and masculine side of the Albariño grape.

RÍAS BAIXAS, ALBARIÑO, LIAS FINAS, 2020 Beautiful aromatic, herbaceous and floral nose. Powerful and creamy mouthfeel with stone fruit aromas and a touch of bitterness on the finish. Good aging potential. Open the bottle a few hours before serving.

RÍAS BAIXAS, ALBARIÑO, EMBAIXADOR, 2018 Exotic nose of mandarin, cooked apples, and hints of smoky minerality. (Bee’s wax).

Powerful, bold, and rich on the palate with a delicate and salty finish. Good aging potential. Open the bottle a few hours before serving.

CONDADO VALLEY Located in the southern part of Galicia, next to the Portugal border and the Miño River, Condado do Tea is the second largest sub-appellation. The soils are a mix of granite and slate and as it is further from the coast, the wines tend to have less acidity with more herbal and floral aromas. Along with Albariño, we can find Treixadura and Loureiro grapes in the white blends.

SEÑORIO DE RUBIOS Señorío Rubiós was founded in 2003 by 100 shareholders with one main purpose: To recover and maintain the precious wine legacy of the Condado region. They are committed to red indigenous grapes such as Sousón and Pedral as well as cultivating the classic white varietals of the area. Their wines are a great balance of modernity and tradition showcasing the diversity of Condado’s micro-climates. Señorio de Rubios is also an oenotourism destination as they have a 4-star hotel, spa, and restaurant on-site with a 3 hectares organic farm. Everything you need for a relaxing getaway in a beautiful natural environment.

CONDADO DO TEA, BLANCO BRUT NATURE, VINO ESPUMOSO DE CALIDADE A unique sparkling wine with a blend of Albariño,

Godello,

Torrontes

Loureira,

and

Treixadura. 9 months on the lies. Elegant floral nose with hints of brioche and grilled nuts. The bubbles are creamy and lively with a lot of yellow stone fruits and floral notes on the midpalate.

RÍAS BAIXAS, ALBARIÑO, COUPAGE PREMIUM, 2020 Herbaceous,

floral

and

mineral

nose

with

aromas of white pears and green apples. Dry on the palate with fresh acidity and a saline clean finish.

MANUEL D’AMARO, PEDRAL, 2015 Interesting delicate nose of dried flowers, dark chocolate, and licorice. Fresh on the attack with vibrant acidity. The mouthfeel is round and silky with a delicious minerality on the finish.

BODEGAS MARQUÉS DE VIZHOJA Established in 1968 by Mr. Mariano Peláez, Bodegas Marqués de Vizhoja is now run by his two sons, Javier and Jorger Peláez. They are continuing the work of their father who has been a great defender of the region’s native grapes heritage and engaged the evolution of the local industry. Dedication and tradition are at the heart of their winemaking philosophy. Made from 100% white varietals such as Albariño, Treixadura, and Loureira, the wines are a pure expression of the coastal sandy-granitic terroir of Condado, with a great balance of freshness and acidity. Every year, they receive an important number of people to visit the beautiful historical estate of "La Moreira," a 16th-century manor house. A must-see!

MARQUÉS DE VIZHOJA, 2021 A Fresh and mineral nose of citrus and green apples.

Mouthwatering acidity with a round mouthfeel and herbaceous flavors. An excellent wine for an aperitif!

RÍAS BAIXAS, TORRE LA MORENA, ALBARIÑO, 2020 Very mineral and fruity on the nose with a touch of saline notes.

Fruity and fresh with a great balance and vibrant acidity.

RÍAS BAIXAS, SEÑOR DA FOLLA VERDE, 2020 A blend of Albariño, Treixadura and Loureira. Aromatic nose of pineapple and cooked fruits. Beautiful saline and smoky mouthfeel with a touch of bitterness. A great gastronomic wine!

ROSAL VALLEY Located on the south coast of the city of Vigo, O Rosal is the hottest appellation of the Rías Baixas. The vineyards are mostly planted on terraces facing the Atlantic Ocean with south exposure. The soils are a mix of alluvial, granite, and slate, giving wines that are fuller-bodied with an intense aromatic profile.

TERRAS GAUDA

Terras Gauda was founded in 1989 by the Fonseca Family and is considered to be one of Rías Baixa's most emblematic wineries. With an average of 160 hectares, they only produce white wines made from estategrown fruit. The winery has been a leader in the development of the appellation as well as sustainable practices. They are dedicated to quality and to preserving the native grape varieties of Galicia.

Winemaker, Emilio Rodríguez Canas, has been part of the adventure for more than 25 years. His wines are well structured and precise, full of character and great aging potential.

RÍAS BAIXAS, ABADIA DE SAN CAMPIO, ALBARIÑO, 2020 Very elegant nose with aromas of mango and citrus zest. Juicy on the palate with an explosion of tropical fruits. Fresh and well-balanced.

RÍAS BAIXAS, TERRAS GAUDA, (BLACK LABEL )2019 A blend of Albariño, Caíño Blanco and Loureiro. Fermented in oak cask. Smoky nose with aromas of grilled nuts and mineral undertones. Creamy mouthfeel with intense fruity flavors. A palate pleaser!

RÍAS BAIXAS, LA MAR, 2019 A blend of Caíño Blanco (95%) Albariño and Loureiro. Aromatic nose of vanilla, honey, and apricot.

Fresh palate with a subtle tannic structure and a long mineral finish. A very elegant wine.

ALTOS DE TORONA The winery is located over the slopes of Mount Galeno, occupying a single plot of 95 hectares, which makes it the largest Rías Baixas vineyard. The estate is mainly planted with Albariño, Caíño Blanco, Godello and Loureiro. The winemaker, Pablo Ibanez Simon, is from a third-generation family winemaker and a master in viticulture. Owned by the HGA Bodegas y Viñedos de Altura group, Altos de Torona was born in 2003 to market high-altitude wines from the best wine-growing areas of Galicia, extending to the regions of O Rosal, O Salnés and in the Ribeira Sacra.

RÍAS BAIXAS, ALBARIÑO, 2020 Very mineral and saline nose with a touch of pears and herbaceous notes. Fresh and dry palate with aromas of green apples and a grassy texture on the finish.

RÍAS BAIXAS, ALBARIÑO, PAZO DE VILLAREI, 2020 Floral, mineral, and herbaceous on the nose. Mouth-watering acidity on the palate with a vibrant, dry, and clean finish. Very classic Albariño.

RIAS BAIXAS, ROSAL, 2020 A blend of Albarino, Caíño and Loureiro. Wet rocks on the nose with beautiful stone fruit aromas.

Full-bodied, fruity, and elegant palate with a delicious saline aftertaste.

GASTRONOMY Galicia also referred to as “Green Spain” is a fertile and abundant land with amazing biodiversity.

You can find the traditional Galician Tapas in many

restaurants

in

the

historic

town

of

Pontevedra, such as Bar Estrella or Tintanegra in the cute little fisherman’s village of Combarro.

This part of Spain is a seafood paradise, and the best way to discover its gastronomy is to drive around the coast and visit all the small villages of the rías (low rivers).

In the fall, enjoy the seafood festival in O Grove and fine dining at Beiramar or d’Berto. Go for a walk on the beach in the famous village of Sanxenxo and eat delicious food at Restaurante Sabino.

For a more urban experience, the city of Vigo offers a great diversity of restaurants from hip wine bars to classic tavernas. Try Casa Samaniego for a great selection of international wines and fresh local products.

Looking for the ultimate culinary experience?

What about a cooking class at the Quinta de San Amaro Hotel?

This boutique hotel in the heart of the Salnés Valley offers private cooking classes with the renowned local chef, Rocío Garrido. Learn the art of Galician cooking and discover Rías Baixa’s best-kept culinary secrets.

Nature, tradition, and gastronomy, the fascinating wine route of the Rías Baixas is an adventure in the mystical green hills of Galicia. From north to south through the beautiful landscape of vineyards, white sand beaches, and valleys, smell the Atlantic breeze and enjoy a glass of delicious Albariño, “The wine of the sea”.

Salud!

March 29, 2022 Circulation: 4,321 Social

Instagram | New article in the Wine Tourism Magazine on the mystical green region of Spain called The Rìas Baixas! @kikico.ca | Kristene Mansuy

March 29, 2022 Circulation: 74,500 Digital

Hot Grapes for a Hot (Cold, Hailing, Rainy) World Kathleen Willcox The climate is changing, and overall is trending warmer.

That trend is “unequivocally” tied to human activity, and is “proceeding at a rate that is unprecedented over millennia,” according to NASA. The longer and warmer growing season are linked to increased wildfire risks and drier conditions.

Except when there’s frost and excess rain, which can also happen, sometimes after a year of heat waves and drought.

The science points to consistent change, which makes finding solutions tough. If we knew that certain regions were going to get hotter and drier year after year, or contend consistently with late spring frosts, excess rain in the growing season and random hail storms, we could pick grapes that would flourish in one or two of those conditions. But all of them?

Below, winemakers explain how they plan to make consistent wine in an era of flux.

Revisiting Indigenous Rarities from the Past in Spain and France

There are more than 10,000 varieties of wine grapes on the planet, but many have been or currently are on the verge of extinction.

But in Spain, winemaker Emilio Rodríguez Canas at Terras Gauda and O Rosal in Rías Baixas has saved heirloom white variety Caiño Blanco from disappearing completely. In fact, today, Terras Gauda’s acreage encompasses 83 percent of the world’s Caiño Blanco plantings. And in recognition of the white grape’s ability to thrive in spite of climate change, the Rías Baixas D.O. has made it an officially approved variety.

“We’ve seen increasing temperatures and more hours of sunshine over the past few years in Rías Baixas, along with diseases that were not common in this area, such as oidio (powdery mildew) and moths or the green mosquito,” Canas says, adding that in addition to resisting regional pests and diseases, the grape is highly drought- and heat-tolerant.

“Caiño Blanco can be cultivated in the same soil and climactic conditions as traditional regional whites such as Albariño, Loureiro, and Palomino,” he continues. “Its main virtue is in the mouth, with tremendously glyceric, unctuous wines, dense and lingering. With lees-aging we can reinforce creaminess and complexity.”

It also features the highest acidity of all of the grapes he grows, giving it excellent aging potential and ideal for blends with other traditional regional whites, Canas explains.

In the 20th century, France’s temperatures were 30 percent higher than the average warming across the globe, rising 1.71 degrees Celsius versus the global average of 1.33 degrees Celsius. But last year, the country’s wine industry suffered the worst damage in decades due to frost, with many harvests down by about 29 percent across the board.

Philippe Pellaton, president of Inter Rhône, says the region is expanding the number of varieties it authorizes for use in a bid for flexibility amid climate chaos.

“We approved Marselan, Caladoc, and Couston as blending grapes in recent years,” Pellaton says, bringing the total number of approved grapes to 21. “Caladoc matures later, like Grenache. With it, we try to obtain freshness, and it thrives in drought.

Marselan and Couston are used for color, and they also ripen later, which helps with the danger of spring frosts.”

The Inter Rhône is also working with scientists to establish varieties that can thrive in Rhône climate and soils, under drought conditions, with the ability to also withstand mildew and oidium.

“We are researching international grape varieties from Spain and Italy, and they will be introduced as an experiment in vineyards over 10 years,” he says. “Experimentation with different grapes is at the heart of our strategy in our fight against climate change, but we are still at an early stage.”

March 24, 2022 Circulation: 7,500 Digital

Bri’s Best Bottles: March Edition Brianne Cohen A new month awaits, which means a new batch of wines for me to share with you for my Best Bottles: March Edition. This month we’re returning to the IG Live format to present the video portion of this post. I’ll be there tonight at 5pm (Pacific), where in 30 minutes or less I share with you a grouping of wines I’m enjoying this month. If you miss the IG Live, don’t fret, all the wine details are below and you can re-watch it on my IGTV channel.

Paco & Lola Albariño $15 (Rías Baixas, Spain) Albariño has a special place in my heart, if only because I just love it. I don’t have a romantic story and have never visited, I just know that if I meet an Albariño, I’m gonna like it. A year ago, I remember trying an aged version of a Paco & Lola wine (a 2012 to be specific) and it knocked my socks off. With this wine, we’re back to youthful, fresh, and fruity. If Sauvy B is your go to, then you will LOVE Albariño. Albariño is truly my summer water.

March 3, 2022 Circulation: 3,733 Social

Instagram Live | Paco & Lola @sommspirations | Brienne Cohen

W I N E , B E E R & S P I R I T S F O R R E TA I L D E C I S I O N M A K E R S

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2022

January 19, 2022 Circulation: 21,700 Social

Twitter | #Wine Review: @BodegasLaVal 2019 Albariño “Finca Arantei" @WineReviewOnlin | Wine Review Online

December 15, 2021 Digital

D.O. Rías Baixas Reports Record U.S. Sales by Value and Volume, Led by 13% Surge in Growth of Albariño Wines Press Release The Spanish wine region of D.O. Rías Baixas has reported record annualized sales of their renowned Albariño white wines in the U.S. market. Exports to the U.S. grew 13% by volume to reach 2.6 million liters, and 16.8% by value to $17.3 million in total sales. The U.S. continues to be the leading global export market for the Albariño wines of Rías Baixas, representing 27.5% of total share by volume. Just released by the Consejo Regulador of D.O. Rías Baixas, the region’s official governing body, this all-time high in U.S. sales was accomplished from August 31, 2020 to September 1, 2021.

The growth in U.S. exports reflects continued consumer appreciation of the Albariño white wines of D.O. Rías Baixas. The results are particularly noteworthy given the lasting impact of U.S. tariffs over the past year, as well as challenges in the hospitality sector related to COVID and supply chain delays.

Analysts in the D.O. Rías Baixas region credit U.S. sales growth to consistent quality recognition and demand for Albariño wines. Consumers are willing to spend more for the ever-popular Albariño, a native grape variety which traces its origins to the Galician region on the Atlantic Coast of northwest Spain. Crisp and refreshing to taste with pronounced citrus, stone fruit and floral aromas, the Albariño wines of Rías Baixas are favorite selections with sommeliers and retail wine buyers.

For the past ten years, D.O. Rías Baixas has consistently outperformed the Spanish wine category (as measured by volume and value growth), supported by a successful U.S. marketing and trade education campaign to position Rías Baixas as world-class white wines in the same league as France, New Zealand and other regions.

The U.S. results reflect an overall positive global trend for D.O. Rías Baixas. 107 of the region’s 179 wineries export wine to over 70 countries worldwide. Many of the wineries are small, family-owned ventures and exports represent a dynamic contribution to economic impact throughout Galicia. Over the period 8/31/20 to 9/1/21, worldwide exports of Rías Baixas grew 12% in volume to 9.3 million liters (or 12.4 million/750-ml bottles)and 14% in value to reach $59 million, an outstanding global sales result for the region. Perceptions of quality (as measured by increased value) are also very favorable as wineries reported an increase of 3% in the average price per liter as compared to the previous year of reporting (2019/20).

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Total Pickup: 123 Impressions: 10,413,114

November 30, 2021 Circulation: 897,809 Digital

Albariño Is a Standout White Wine. Here’s Why It Should Be on Your Radar.

Michael Schachner

With more than 3,000 miles of coastline, Spain offers some of the world’s finest seafood. Likewise, this wine-producing country makes excellent white wines perfect for pairing with ocean-borne delights.

Among the country’s critically acclaimed white varietal wines—a field that includes Godello, Verdejo, Viura and Garnacha Blanca—Albariño is a standout. Hailing almost entirely from the sprawling noncontiguous wine region of Rías Baixas, which abuts the Atlantic Ocean in northwest Spain, Albariño (pronounced Albah-REEN-yo) is a wine whose popularity has skyrocketed over the past quarter-century.

A classic Rías Baixas Albariño offers fresh aromas of white flowers, citrus fruits, stone fruits and green apple offset by supporting notes of sea brine, slate and minerals. The nonfruit aromatics come from the nearby ocean and granitic base soils found throughout the region.

Galician in origin, Albariño is most often fermented in stainless steel and meant to be consumed within two years of being bottled. Some producers seek greater depth and richness through extended aging on lees or barrel fermentation.

Pair these wines with shellfish, lobster, smoked salmon or octopus, and you will feel transported to Spain’s cool and verdant Northwest. A quick word on recent vintages: Albariños to buy and drink now are those from the 2020 harvest and the higher quality 2019 vintage. Albariño should always be served chilled but not ice-cold; the younger the wine, the more bold, agile and lucid it will be.

Six Spanish Albariños to Buy Now

November 3, 2021 Circulation: 1,100,000 Digital

Phil Your Glass: Looking for a new white wine? This Albarino is bueno Phil Masturzo It’s OK to drink white after Labor Day. Who am I to judge? While you're at it, thrown on a pair of your white Gucci jeans. It’s clam bake season, and we’re going to celebrate with a nice crisp bottle of Albarino.

This refreshing aromatic white wine is traditionally grown in Spain’s Rias Baixas region along the northwest coast, where seafood is a daily staple. Albarino is made to enjoy with seafood.

I sampled four of these lovely Spanish white wines for this story.

The $14.99 Burgans, $16.99 Licia and $18.99 Laxas all were delicious.

Albarino is one of my three favorite white varietals to drink in the world. I wouldn't hesitate to purchase any of them.

However, the $21.99 Paco & Lola Albarino went to the head of the class for me.

I loved the grapefruit nuances in the wine, which is typical for many Albarinos. The grapefruit flavors are balanced and do not twist your cheeks into a sailor's knot after your first sip.

Note to sauvignon blanc lovers — give this wine a try. You’ll be hooked by the lime zest and orange blossom aromas.

I enjoyed my first few sips with a couple of feta-stuffed green olives, a hunk of Manchego cheese and handful of Marcona almonds. Just to mix things up, I had a glass with a few tortilla chips and queso along with a spicy California roll. Of course it was superb with my homemade steamed clams and muscles in a white wine and garlic broth. Me encanata!

November 3, 2021 Circulation: 243,100 Digital

Phil Your Glass: Looking for a new white wine? This Albarino is bueno Phil Masturzo It’s OK to drink white after Labor Day. Who am I to judge? While you're at it, thrown on a pair of your white Gucci jeans. It’s clam bake season, and we’re going to celebrate with a nice crisp bottle of Albarino.

This refreshing aromatic white wine is traditionally grown in Spain’s Rias Baixas region along the northwest coast, where seafood is a daily staple. Albarino is made to enjoy with seafood.

I sampled four of these lovely Spanish white wines for this story.

The $14.99 Burgans, $16.99 Licia and $18.99 Laxas all were delicious.

Albarino is one of my three favorite white varietals to drink in the world. I wouldn't hesitate to purchase any of them.

However, the $21.99 Paco & Lola Albarino went to the head of the class for me.

I loved the grapefruit nuances in the wine, which is typical for many Albarinos. The grapefruit flavors are balanced and do not twist your cheeks into a sailor's knot after your first sip.

Note to sauvignon blanc lovers — give this wine a try. You’ll be hooked by the lime zest and orange blossom aromas.

I enjoyed my first few sips with a couple of feta-stuffed green olives, a hunk of Manchego cheese and handful of Marcona almonds. Just to mix things up, I had a glass with a few tortilla chips and queso along with a spicy California roll. Of course it was superb with my homemade steamed clams and muscles in a white wine and garlic broth. Me encanata!

October 6, 2021 Circulation: 145,900 Digital

Review: Rias Baixas Albarino Wines, 2021 Releases Christopher Null The Rias Baixas region of Spain is known for one wine almost exclusively: Albarino, the crisp (and affordable) white wine that is defined by the cool breezes that come off the nearby Atlantic Ocean.

Today we look at a trio of new albarino releases, all hailing from Rias Baixas.

2020 Mar de Vinas Albarino Val do Salnes Rias Baixas – Clean and gently fruity, this is a sweeter expression of expression of albarino, touched with salinity but effusive with tropical fruit notes, pineapples and mangos lingering well into the sultry, caramel-laced finish. Versatile and extremely easy-drinking — though its mineral character could use a bit of a bump. B+ / $18 2019 Bodegas Castro Martin A2O Albarino Sobre Lias Rias Baixas – Quite salty, with bright grapefruit and lemon notes. Tangerine notes pop alongside that heavy saline character, with a gentle perfume note lingering on the heavily acidic finish. Ultra-bright. B+ / $12 2019 Davide Observador Albarino Rias Baixas – Melon and lemon notes meld well in this more unctuous albarino, its saline character taking a more measured role in a wine that comes across as slightly sour in the end, with grapefruit elements dominating. Floral elements emerge on the finish, but they don’t add much to the overall experience. B / $15

September 8, 2021 Circulation: 20,000 Digital

Haiku Tasting Notes for Autumn 2021 Blake Gray Shorter than twitter haiku tasting notes capture the feeling of wine I have been keeping haiku tasting notes for a few months since claiming I could do it. In most cases I took traditional tasting notes and then wrote the haiku. Some of these wines and sakes I have written about elsewhere; for others this will be my only memory, save the ephemeral grace of drinking and enjoying them.

These are all unedited, which any critic will tell you is rare for tasting notes. But a haiku is supposed to capture a moment in time, so it feels wrong to come in months later and change a word.

I used the classic haiku definition of 5-7-5 syllables. It is with deep regret that I did not always include a seasonal reference as all good haiku should. Please accept my contrition.

The links lead to places you can purchase the wines and sakes.

I also gave scores But will keep those to myself Haiku must suffice Granbazàn "Etiqueta Verde" Rias Baixas Albariño 2020 13% Lemon growing stone Fresh light citrus, some structure Terrific fish wine

August 25, 2021 Circulation: 70,000 Digital

#WineWednesday: Sending Off Summer with the Juiciest Wines Robin Barr Sussman Labor Day beckons, which means back-to-school, no white pants (not!), and the end of summer weather. (Not in Texas!) It feels just like August, so why not pull out all the stops and uncork something cool for that last fling with summer?

Think racy riesling, lush albarino, sexy sancerre, and of course, the most mouthwatering chardonnays and berry-bursting pinot Spain Kissed by ocean breezes, Rías Baixas shares more than 1,000 miles of coastline with the Atlantic Ocean, so the wines from this region have a mineral-driven character balanced with acidity and stone fruit and citrus zest notes. Elegant Santiago Ruiz O Rosal opens with a jasmine fragrance followed by pear, apple and spice on the palate. ($20)

August 11, 2021 Circulation: 9,500 Digital

Albariño Season Christy Canterbury With heat blast down on us during these mid-August days - and even nights, I keep reaching for thirstquenching whites. I have an extra row of whites stacked in my refrigerator, and a few delicious bottles from Rias Baixas are always amongst them. Here are three excellent, flavor-packed choices that I recently enjoyed.

91 Davide 2019 Albariño 2° Ano Rias Baixas 13% $35 This is a bright and spicy Albariño hailing from Val do Salnés and showing a caressing mid-palate texture followed by a refreshing, mineral and sea salt-driven, lingering finish. The layers of flavor unfold as the wine opens in the glass, starting with lush yellow plums and pomelo zest and moving into savory tones of bay leaf and chicken stock. Delightful to sip on its own, this will also complement a wide array of seafood dishes as well as creamy cheeses.

89 Terras Gauda 2020 Rías Baixas O Rosal 12.5% $20 Intriguing from the start, this medium-bodied, mildly textured white starts with flavors of fennel and sea salt.

The moderate finish shows some pithy blood orange peel and oodles of minerality, too. With delightfully, cheek-gripping acidity, this should hold nicely and may develop well in bottle, too. This is a blend of 70% Albariño, 10% Loureira and 20% Caiño.

88 Granbazán 2020 Albariño Etiqueta Verde Rías Baixas 13% $19 A chiseled style, this crisp and ultra-fresh Albariño is a lightening rod. The zippy acidity super charges the medium-bodied palate that is dense with flavor. Pear skin, donut peach and white currant contrast nicely with aloe and fern. Lightly slate-y on the modest finish, this is ready to enjoy and irresistible to boot. This also comes from the Val do Salnés.

August 8, 2021 Circulation: 5,000 Digital

Rias Baixas Region Wines From the Albarino Grape Bennet Bodenstein I just had the opportunity to sample some really interesting wines from the Rias Baixas region of northwestern Spain.

The wines were all based on the albarino grape. A few of these wines also were blended with small amounts of other indigenous but little-known grape varieties to form a series of wines that are basically similar and yet also different by reflecting a particular house style.

Let’s start with the variety’s pedigree.

The albarino is indigenous to northwestern Spain, the part that lies above Portugal, which is blessed by cooling winds that blow across the vineyards from the Atlantic Ocean, a condition in which wine grapes thrive. With that head start, the albarino wines should prove to be a nice accompaniment to all types of Hispanic and Mediterranean cuisine, as well as serving as a fine sipping wine.

Mar de Ons 2020 Albarino ($13) My high school Spanish teacher told me “mar” means sea and “de” means of, but I could not find out what “Ons.” means.

It turns out that Ons is the local name for the part of the Atlantic just off the northwestern coast of Spain. To start things off, the bottle is a bright blue, and I suspect that is to represent the sea (the Ons), and to reinforce that guess, the label sports drawings of fish. Do you think that they are trying to tell us something? The wine offers the obvious aromas of citrus, white summer fruits and the impression of fresh-cut flowers. The flavor is ablaze with apple, peach and pear, all backed up by a noticeable citrus element. The finish is long and fruity, ending with a note of lemon peel. I found there to be a nice wine inside that “fishy” blue bottle.

Santiago Ruiz 2020 Albarino ($20) With the Santiago Ruiz 2020 Alberino, the first thing you will notice is that the label looks like a child's drawing of a map.

To me, that label is a little unfair to the wine behind it, which is enjoyable and well made. To the albarino, the main grape variety in this wine, was added two local varieties giving the wine its noticeable and enjoyable individuality. The basic albarino flavors and aromas are still there but they are augmented by the contribution of the fruity nature of the native grape varieties. It is these minor, but noticeable differences, that makes this wine so darned interesting.

Terras Gauda 2020 O Rosal ($25) Another song based on the same melody. In this wine, 70% is albarino, leaving plenty of room for several local varieties to make up the balance. The result is an individualistic and food-friendly wine. In this wine, there is an apple component to the aroma and flavor as well as an easily identifiable orange undertone. The finish, which is anything but subdued, is a compendium of summer fruits which seem to be in a constantly revolving pattern.

Condes De Albarei 2020 Albarino ($16) This is another 100% albarino that supports the quality and finesse that this variety can achieve. The bright yellow color presents the aromas of peach, nectarine, pineapple and summer flowers. These aromas never leave the wine and follow through to the flavor and then on to a long finish that’s noticeably coupled with citrus. This wine is both enjoyable and affordable, making for a good excuse to try it.

La Val 2020 Albarino ($19) Last but by no means least is La Val 2020 Albarino. There is a certain charm about this wine coming from the complexity of the flavors and aromas that it displays. Although dry, the aroma is so intense that it gives the impression of being sweet. In the flavor and aroma, apple abounds but does not hide a citrus element and the traditional minerality, a signature of all albarino wines. Like Florida, this wine is another excellent gift from the Spanish people.

August 6, 2021 Circulation: 58,700 Digital

Rias Baixas Region Wines From the Albarino Grape Bennet Bodenstein I just had the opportunity to sample some really interesting wines from the Rias Baixas region of northwestern Spain.

The wines were all based on the albarino grape. A few of these wines also were blended with small amounts of other indigenous but little-known grape varieties to form a series of wines that are basically similar and yet also different by reflecting a particular house style.

Let’s start with the variety’s pedigree.

The albarino is indigenous to northwestern Spain, the part that lies above Portugal, which is blessed by cooling winds that blow across the vineyards from the Atlantic Ocean, a condition in which wine grapes thrive. With that head start, the albarino wines should prove to be a nice accompaniment to all types of Hispanic and Mediterranean cuisine, as well as serving as a fine sipping wine.

Mar de Ons 2020 Albarino ($13) My high school Spanish teacher told me “mar” means sea and “de” means of, but I could not find out what “Ons.” means.

It turns out that Ons is the local name for the part of the Atlantic just off the northwestern coast of Spain. To start things off, the bottle is a bright blue, and I suspect that is to represent the sea (the Ons), and to reinforce that guess, the label sports drawings of fish. Do you think that they are trying to tell us something? The wine offers the obvious aromas of citrus, white summer fruits and the impression of fresh-cut flowers. The flavor is ablaze with apple, peach and pear, all backed up by a noticeable citrus element. The finish is long and fruity, ending with a note of lemon peel. I found there to be a nice wine inside that “fishy” blue bottle.

Santiago Ruiz 2020 Albarino ($20) With the Santiago Ruiz 2020 Alberino, the first thing you will notice is that the label looks like a child's drawing of a map.

To me, that label is a little unfair to the wine behind it, which is enjoyable and well made. To the albarino, the main grape variety in this wine, was added two local varieties giving the wine its noticeable and enjoyable individuality. The basic albarino flavors and aromas are still there but they are augmented by the contribution of the fruity nature of the native grape varieties. It is these minor, but noticeable differences, that makes this wine so darned interesting.

Terras Gauda 2020 O Rosal ($25) Another song based on the same melody. In this wine, 70% is albarino, leaving plenty of room for several local varieties to make up the balance. The result is an individualistic and food-friendly wine. In this wine, there is an apple component to the aroma and flavor as well as an easily identifiable orange undertone. The finish, which is anything but subdued, is a compendium of summer fruits which seem to be in a constantly revolving pattern.

Condes De Albarei 2020 Albarino ($16) This is another 100% albarino that supports the quality and finesse that this variety can achieve. The bright yellow color presents the aromas of peach, nectarine, pineapple and summer flowers. These aromas never leave the wine and follow through to the flavor and then on to a long finish that’s noticeably coupled with citrus. This wine is both enjoyable and affordable, making for a good excuse to try it.

La Val 2020 Albarino ($19) Last but by no means least is La Val 2020 Albarino. There is a certain charm about this wine coming from the complexity of the flavors and aromas that it displays. Although dry, the aroma is so intense that it gives the impression of being sweet. In the flavor and aroma, apple abounds but does not hide a citrus element and the traditional minerality, a signature of all albarino wines. Like Florida, this wine is another excellent gift from the Spanish people.

Circulation: 281,000

90

Palacio de Fefiiianes 2019 de Fefiiianes Albariiio (Rias Baixas). Briny apple aromas come with a dusty note, while this is both juicy and full on the palate, with lime-like acidity. Flavors of lime, green melon, apple and sea salt are appeal­ ing. On the finish, this feels lively and acidic, with a note of green herbs. Drink now. Kysela Pere et Fils.

-M.S. abv:13.5% Price: $33

88

Nora 2019 Albariiio (Rias Baixas). Peach and tropical-fruit aromas set up a medium-bod­ ied palate that benefits from citric acidity. This is a fresh, somewhat raw Albariiio, with overriding cit­ rusy flavors and salty notes. There's nothing flashy here. Just expect the wine to cover the bases. Aviva Vino. -M.S. abv: 13% Price: $17

85

Condes de Albarei 2019 Albariiio (Rias Baixas). Dusty white-fruit aromas are generic, while this wine feels citrusy and a bit raw.

Apple and citrus flavors are lean and quick. A light echo of citrus drives a short finish. Cordelina Wine Company. -M.S. abv:13%

July 30, 2021 Circulation: 200,300 Digital

Review: 2020 Gotas de Mar Albarino Rias Baixas Christopher Null

In America we’ve become spoiled in recent years with the exceptional quality of Rias Baixas albarino wines that have made it to our shores. This 2020 bottling from Gotas de Mar (“sea drops”) isn’t the most vibrant wine I’ve encountered from this iconic Spanish region, but it follows reasonably closely with expectations, showing off restrained notes of white peaches, a mild saline character, and a gentle gooseberry note on the back end. A bit creamier and less acidic than the typical albarino, but still in the wheelhouse. Ultimately, there’s nothing particularly game-changing here, but when served well-chilled it absolutely does the trick for summer sipping. B

July 30, 2021 Circulation: 119,000 Digital Stealing the Show (E-Newsletter) Karen MacNeil

July 22, 2021 Circulation: 11,800 Social

Instagram: @bodegasaslaxas Pairs Perfectly with Seafood, Salads and Romantic Evening Sunsets! @petitewinetraveler | Jamie Knee

July 26, 2021 Circulation: 16,200 Social

Instagram: Complex, joyful, juicy, all. Cheers to summer whites! @kathleenwillcox | Kathleen Willcox

July 23, 2021 Circulation: 1,200,000 Digital

10 Zesty Albariños for Less Than $40 Michael Schachner Albariño, known as Alvarinho in Portugal, is a white grape variety from Iberian Peninsula. It’s the principal grape in the crisp and refreshing wines of Rías Baixas and Vinho Verde.

Like many varieties, it has also thrived in various climates and regions outside of its home. Albariños tend to be crisp with ripe fruit flavors, have bright acidity and a round mouthfeel, and are often meant to be consumed young. They’re perfect on hot summer days, or paired with the brininess of foods like oysters.

La Caña 2019 Albariño (Rías Baixas); $20, 90 points. Patented apple and green-melon aromas come with a hint of sea brine, making this Albariño appealing from the start. A rounded palate is braced by punchy acidity, while melon and apple flavors come with a welcome hint of wet stone and citrus. This is in prime condition, so drink now. Jorge Ordóñez Selections.

Palacio de Fefiñanes 2019 de Fefiñanes Albariño (Rías Baixas); $33, 90 points. Briny apple aromas come with a dusty note, while this is both juicy and full on the palate, with lime-like acidity. Flavors of lime, green melon, apple and sea salt are appealing. On the finish, this feels lively and acidic, with a note of green herbs. Drink now. Kysela Père et Fils.

July 19, 2021 Circulation: 4,248 Social

Instagram: Show-Stopper #albarino from #adegadavide @christy_canterbury_mw | Christy Canterbury

July 14, 2021 Circulation: 4,133 Social

Instagram: “Reinforcements” from Spain! @wineshine | Amanda Schuster

July 10, 2021 Circulation: 5,000 Digital

2019 Laxas Albariño $11 Joe Becerra Any time of the year is excellent for enjoying an Albariño wine, but even more so now during summertime weather.

Albariño is the Spanish grape from the Rias Baixas region of Spain. Albariño is a dry wine with citrus characteristics and a bit of minerality. Right now, Costco is carrying the 2019 As Laxas Albariño for $10.99. I purchased a half-case at the Foster City Costco. I also see it at the Spanish Table for $18, Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant for $16, and the Half Moon Bay Wine & Cheese Shop for $19. That Costco price is one heck of a deal.

Why we like the Bodegas AS 2019 Laxas Albariño

The Bodegas As Laxas Albariño is a delicious wine! The flavors are lemon and lime, some honey, and stoniness.

The wine is dry with gentile acidity. The alcohol is 12.5%, a perfect sipping wine. I must admit that I like most Albariño wines from Spain, but this one is not only very tasty but hard to beat at $11. James Suckling, the esteemed wine critic, gives the 2019 Laxas a whopping 92 Points. My point rating is 89. If you have not tried an Albariño before, give the Laxas a try. The closest variety of grape to the Albariño is perhaps a dry Riesling grape. Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc lovers, you must encourage yourself to try the Albariño grape. It is a totally different experience.

Many wineries in California and Oregon are growing Albariño and producing great Albariño wines. However, they do taste different and, for the most part, are more expensive than the Spanish Albariño wines. A few producers are Brecon Estate in Paso Robles, Bokisch Vineyards in Lodi, and Abacela winery in the Umpqua Valley.

July 5, 2021 Circulation: 96,400 Digital

GRANBAZÁN ALBARIÑO RÍAS BAIXAS ETIQUETA ÁMBAR 2019 James Suckling

July 5, 2021 Circulation: 96,400 Digital

GRANBAZÁN ALBARIÑO RÍAS BAIXAS ETIQUETA ÁMBAR 2013 James Suckling

July 5, 2021 Circulation: 96,400 Digital

GRANBAZÁN ALBARIÑO RÍAS BAIXAS ETIQUETA VERDE 2020 James Suckling

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LUSCO ALBARIÑO RÍAS BAIXAS 2019 James Suckling

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GRANBAZÁN ALBARIÑO RÍAS BAIXAS DON ÁLVARO DE BAZAN 2018 James Suckling

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GRANBAZÁN ALBARIÑO RÍAS BAIXAS LIMOUSIN 2017 James Suckling

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GRANBAZÁN ALBARIÑO RÍAS BAIXAS VEIGALOBOS 2018 James Suckling

June 17, 2021 Circulation: 218,100 Digital

Atlantic Spain: It’s Always About the Weather…

Josh Raynolds Stretching from Galicia in the far northwest and along the Atlantic Ocean and the Bay of Biscay to the Basque Country, Atlantic Spain is the country’s coolest winegrowing region. Mostly indigenous varieties that are grown virtually nowhere else in Spain are the rule. The almost universally ocean-influenced climate and the intrinsic character of those local grapes define vibrant wines that are increasingly capturing the attention of wine lovers across the globe.

The White Wines The earlier-bottled white wines from 2020 are starting to enter the market now. What I have tasted so far has been quite impressive, even more so considering the difficulties of the vintage. The growing season got off to a fast start, with a warmer than usual spring. This gave way to an atypically damp late spring and summer, bringing uncommon mildew pressure that required strict and constant attention to the vineyards. Given a widespread shortage of manual labor caused by the pandemic, it was a time of serious stress for the growers. Yields varied from zone to zone, with Rías Baixas realizing a crop that was up nearly 20% over 2019 in some sites, while numbers were down by roughly the same amount in Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra. Small producers who have always relied on manual labor and, who by tradition, work labor shortfall than larger wineries that are more dependent on seasonal and non-resident workers. Fortunately, small production from small vineyards is more the rule in Galicia than the exception, which definitely worked in many bodegas’ favor, or at least mitigated the angst.

The naturally high-acid Albariño that dominates Rías Baixas appears to have handled the warmth of the 2020 vintage well, based on the admittedly small set of wines that I have tried so far. That said, I expect that most of the wines will be more ample than classically taut and racy, with more orchard fruit and less citrus character than usual. I’m also expecting them to be perhaps less age-worthy than usual – not that many people actually cellar the wines, even if they should give it a shot. In warm vintages, the signature minerality and tension of a Rías Baixas can be muted as well, which, ironically,

can make the wines work with a wider range of foods than those from typical or cooler vintages. Very few of the typically richer Godello- and Treixadura-based Galicia and León white wines – meaning Bierzo, Ribeira Sacra and Valdeorras – have been released yet, so I have only had a small sampling thus far. Those varieties, and more inland regions, usually produce a weighty, more ample and less racy style than one finds with Albariño and from seaside Rías Baixa. That difference is especially marked in hot years. The brief look that I have been able to take suggests that wines will be muscular but still possess good enough acidity to keep them lively, even if most will be best on the young side. Godello, in particular, has a tendency to turn rich and even exotic with age, and my guess is that it will happen sooner than later with the 2020s.

In Navarre and the Basque Country, 2020 looks very good for the region’s Txakolina wines, which are based on the indigenous, high-acid and low-sugar Hondarrabi Zuri variety. The best vineyards of Getariako Txakolina and Bizkaiko Txakolina roll right down to the Bay of Biscay and they are definitely built to handle a hot vintage. The Getariako region is just west of Donostia-San Sebastian, while Bizkaiko lies further west and north of Bilbao. The vast majority of these wines are drunk up within the year following release, so vintage differences matter little to most people consuming them.

They are almost all distinctly spritzy on release, the trait that most are seeking in the first (and last) place. Not many people buy a Txakoli looking for complexity, although a number of producers do make serious, complex wines, some of which can actually reward a couple of years of patience. The Arabako Txakolina zone, which lies inland, south of Bilbao, produces wines that bear comparison to their northern counterparts for their varietal makeup if not their style, as many of them are still or just slightly spritzy. They generally have a bit more heft as well, so the 2020s will likely be even deeper than usual.

In 2019 almost all of Spain’s winegrowing regions labored under hot conditions, but Galicia and Rías Baixas, in particular, were mostly spared. The vintage, in general, was defined by white grapes that possessed high acidity and low pH, in some cases higher and lower than normal. Yields were mostly low due to a dry winter followed by erratic spring weather that brought on mildew. In addition, 2018 and 2017 were quite high-yielding vintages resulting in stressed vines, giving fewer and smaller clusters and thus less crop. I think this shows in most of the 2019s in the expression of power and weight, even if there is still plenty of freshness to the wines. Fans of taut, racy white Galician wines will want to be a little careful with 2019, but most wine lovers are going to be thrilled with the wide range of high-quality bottlings that are available.

The 2019s from the Basque region are definitely softer and rounder than usual, although they are far from flabby. The best wines are drinking wonderfully now and can show a greater degree of weight and orchard fruit character than the

usual racy, citrus-fruit-driven style of the region. The spritziness in most of the wines has also diminished because of that extra bit of bottle age, which I think adds to their flexibility at the table.

Two thousand eighteen was a textbook vintage for Galicia, with generally mild weather throughout the season and more rain than usual in the early spring. This gave growers a higher than normal yield, and the wines tend to be bright and energetic, with fine detail and balance. I suspect that the white wines of Bierzo, Ribeira Sacra, Valdeorras and Ribeiro will age gracefully while those from Rías Baixas are in prime drinking form now, with potential for aging in the case of the best bottlings. Most of the Basque Country whites are long gone and, at least to my taste, that’s a good thing, as going more than two vintages out with Txakoli is a higher risk than I’d advise.

The Red Wines Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra are two of the most exciting red wine regions in Spain right now. International demand for the top wines has been heating up for some time. Both 2019 and 2018 were highly successful vintages here, with the 2018s built along classic lines of brightness and energy while the 2019s are also lively but generally display a greater degree of depth to go along with it. Mencía always has healthy natural acidity, Merenzao even more so, and that helps the wines avoid flabbiness, even in warmer vintages, which has been a huge asset to the region over the last decade.

I have tried only a small number of 2020 reds from Spain’s Atlantic-influenced regions, far too few to make anything close to an educated guess as to where they’re heading. Based simply on the weather, and just a handful of wines, I suspect that this will be a vintage of fairly generous, mostly forward and fruit-driven reds, especially at the entry level.

Those wines made from old vines – and there are lots of them in Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra – could turn out to be very interesting and age-worthy, but we’re at least a year or two out from seeing results.

The 2019 red wines from Galicia and León show a compelling blend of power and energy with fine detail and balance.

There’s a darker fruit character than normal in many of the wines, but not to an extreme, as that quality is more than balanced by fresh acidity and good structure. I suspect that the best examples of Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra will be quite long-lived based on their concentration and healthy but not excessive tannin levels. The low yields brought on by a dry summer can be thanked for that, but this also means that many of the wines will be more difficult to find than usual (not that they were ever very easy to track down in the first place).

In Navarre, 2019 was a drought year and yields were down. But the growing season was mostly healthy and acidity levels in the grapes stayed high, allowing for wines of good energy as well as depth. The top wines are still not on the market but all factors point to a very successful year for the region.

Growers and red wine producers have little if anything to complain about given the results of 2018 in Galicia and León.

Healthy spring rains and mild growing season were huge assets to the vines, as was the case with the white grapes in the region. Yields were larger than normal but not ridiculously so, meaning that there’s generous but not excessive concentration to the resulting wines. Broadly speaking, they are structured without coming off hard, show plenty of vibrant fruit and display impressive aromatic complexity. I have found many wines, even the most cellar-worthy Bierzo bottlings, to be quite expressive already, though their balance bodes very well for their age-worthiness. While there’s no harm in dipping your toes into them now, I’d look at it as more of an exercise in curiosity. Patience will be a virtue here.

A much larger than normal crop was realized in Navarre in 2018, up by around a third. The wines are softer and, as a result, will drink well on the young side for their forward fruit and gentle tannic structures. The 2018s are also lively, making them ideal candidates for earlier drinking even if their balance should ensure positive aging.

The hot and dry conditions of 2017 definitely mark Bierzo’s and Ribeira Sacra’s red wines. Yields were off due to the drought, and the result is plenty of rich, dark-fruited wines of distinct power as well as structure. Old vines fared better than young ones and, fortunately, old plantings are what mark most of the best bodegas here. In fact, a number of 2017s show surprising energy, especially if one is strictly looking at weather graphs. Ribeira Sacra was especially successful, I think, which could also come down to the presence in many vineyards of Merenzao, which is naturally high in acidity.

Adega Davide

Adegas Gran Vinum

Adegas Valmiñor

Agro de Bazán

Bodegas As Laxas

Bodegas Eidosela

Bodegas Fillaboa

Bodegas La Caña

Bodegas La Val

Bodegas Palacio De Fefiñanes

Bodegas Terras Gauda

Bodegas Viña Nora

Lagar da Condesa

Lagar de Cervera

Marqués de Cáceres

Pazo de Señorans

Zarate

June 11, 2021 Circulation: 11,600 Digital

13 Wines to Sip Through the Summer Season Elyse Genderson Summer 2021 is here and with the promise of lockdown restrictions easing, it is an exciting time to celebrate with great seasonal wine. From Albariño to Zweigelt Rosé I’ve got you covered with a dreamy selection of light but serious wines. A great summer wine should be approachable, lively, and of course, refreshing. This roundup includes brand new releases that fit the bill for warm weather sipping.

Albariño The most well-known grape variety in Galicia flourishes in Rías Baixas, Albariño is considered Spain’s quintessential white wine. The sea influence is prominent, and the best wines display a briny, salty character backed by zippy acidity. The granitic soils in Rías Baixas contribute to the mineral expression of the terroir. Think Pinot Grigio on steroids!

2019 Sonrío Cuando Llueve Albariño ($19.99): Aromas of green apple, lemon, pear, and pineapple burst from the glass. The palate has a creamy and round texture along with racy acidity to create a balanced and lively white wine.

2019 Rectoral do Umia Albariño Rías Baixas ($26.99): Granny Smith green apple aromas are lifted by honey, lemon and lime. The salty flavors on the long finish are ultra-refreshing!

May 22, 2021 Circulation: 1,546 Social

Instagram @camila.uncorked

May 14, 2021 Circulation: 168,600,000 Digital

This crisp pinot grigio stands out in the crowd at only $12 Dave McIntyre

Three standout wines from Spain highlight our list this week: a delicious albariño from Rias Baixas in Galicia and two natural wines from central Spain. We round out the list with affordable whites from France and Italy.

Mar de Viñas Albariño 2020 (Extraordinary) Val do Salnés, Rías Baixas, Spain, $19 Citrusy, with a hint of salinity from the ocean breeze off the Atlantic, this wine brightens your palate the way a squirt of lemon lifts the flavors of any dish. The fish on the label suggests the perfect food pairing. ABV: 13 percent.

Imported by Grapes of Spain, distributed by Elite Wines: Available in the District at Ace Beverage, Bacchus Wine Cellar, Broad Branch Market, Congress Market, Cookies Corner, Dixie Liquor, Grand Liquor, LA Liquors, Magruder’s, Morris Miller Wine & Liquor, Old City Market and Oven, Rodman’s, Streets Market (Connecticut Avenue), Uptown Market, Watergate Vintners & Spirits, Yes! Organic Market (Georgia Avenue); Young’s Deli & Market. Available in Maryland at 3rd Base Liquors in Bel Air; Beer Wine & Co., Butchers Alley, Capital Beer & Wine, Cork 57 Beer and Wine, Georgetown Square Wine and Beer, Lance’s Beer & Wine in Bethesda; Beers & Cheers Too, Downtown Crown Wine and Beer, Finewine.com in Gaithersburg; Botanero, Grosvernor Market, Pour Vino N’ Hops, Village Beer & Fine Wine in Rockville; the Bottle Shop in Potomac; Friendship Wine & Liquor in Abingdon; Knowles Station Wine & Co. in Kensington; Locavino, Snider’s Super Foods in Silver Spring; Old Farm Liquors in Frederick; Olney Beer & Fine Wine in Olney; Pine Orchard Liquors in Ellicott City; Rip’s Wine and Spirit Shop in Bowie; Ronnie’s Beverage Warehouse in Forest Hill. Available in Virginia at Arrowine and Cheese in Arlington; Cheesetique (Alexandria, Arlington); Kroger (Eastridge) in Richmond; Wine Gallery 108 in Alexandria.

May 5, 2021 Circulation: 6,722 Social

Instagram @nibblingsypsy