WEEDS IN MY… !

So …. You installed a new landscape or maybe just got your existing landscape reworked with upgrades and now you would prefer to sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labor (or possibly other’s). As you may remember from a previous article, weeds are simply any plant that is growing where you do not want it to grow. Beware that there are thousands of weed seeds in a cubic foot of topsoil. All that new work that occurred in your planting beds stirred up the soil. This activity exposes previously dormant weed seeds to light and heat and this in turn triggers germination. No single action will provide the weed control needed. A combination of hand weeding, pre-emergent herbicide, a 2-3” layer of organic mulch, and even a spot spray of a post emergent herbicide will most likely be required to achieve the desired results. (Always read and follow the complete label when working with herbicides).

WEED FABRIC… SHOULD YOU USE IT?

Weed fabric is limited in its ability to stop weeds. Since the fabric has tiny holes for water and air to pass through, the weed seeds eventually will start germinating on top of the fabric and their tiny root hairs will pass through the fabric. The first year weed fabric gives roughly 85% control and falls to 65% the following year and then drops off sharply. Another negative is when you need to replace a plant or possibly add plants the weed fabric is ever present and must be dealt with. In my experience, I recommend not using it. However, the exception to that is if the planting beds design is using a stone mulch. The fabric in this case is necessary to keep the stones from sinking into the soil over time.

WHAT IS THE BEST ORGANIC MULCH?

The one you want is the best one, right? To a degree, this is correct. Whatever organic mulch you choose to install in your planting beds has pros and cons. Pine straw mulch is technically the best mulch. If you can get Long Leaf Pine straw, it will cost more but may be worth it since it holds its color longer and does not deteriorate as fast as the commonly found Slash Pine needles. Pine straw mulch installed 3-4” thick creates a good layer that helps prevent weeds from germinating by blocking the light hitting the soil. Another advantage is as pine straw decomposes it slightly acidifies the top of the soil and this also holds down weed seeds from germinating. The slightly acidifying effect is beneficial to our acid loving plants like azaleas, camellias, and hollies. Since Pine straw decomposes almost completely in a year, it is not as likely for the thickness of the accumulated mulch to become a problem.

Dyed hardwood mulches have become extremely popular over the last 20 years. Having the longlasting wood mulch dyed (red, brown or black) makes it highly desirable. A plain wood mulch that is not dyed fades quickly in the sunlight, turning grey in the first couple of months after installation. I personally despise the red dyed hardwood mulch since it is not a naturally occurring color in the landscape and fades to a pinkish orange color as it begins to fade. The brown or black just go to a lighter hue of their color and I find that more desirable.

Pine bark mulch holds its color well and it’s completely natural making it highly desirable as well. However, be careful with the bark mulches as they tend to float. The shredded pine mulch is probably the best if you go that route. Shredded Cypress Mulch was once the most common of the wood mulches. Since its color fades quickly, the dyed mulches have taken that position.

Be careful not to build layer after layer each time you add organic mulch to your planting beds. Once you mulch the first time with a wood/bark mulch installing 2-3” of product, annually add a thin layer for color only. If organic mulches get too thick, they will retain moisture and thus attract termites and other insects. If you find that has happened, it will be necessary to remove the mulch and start fresh.

Whether you do it or pay someone else to do it… having a weed free landscape (much like a weed free life) requires constant attention.

Questions or comments? Email steveblack1986@gmail.com