Home Plate

by David Hagedorn

Whether you’re hankering for a thick-stacked patty melt on marble rye, or cornflake-crusted brioche French toast with maple-pecan syrup and blueberries, Matt and Tony’s All Day Kitchen + Bar , which debuted in Del Ray last spring, is a dream come true for brunch lovers. The hybrid meal is served all day, Tuesday-Sunday (the restaurant is closed Mondays), starting at 8 a.m.

Need a little protein? You can gild that custardy French toast by adding a crispy fried-chicken paillard between its slices—or opt instead for a towering order of chicken and waffles. From the beverage list, a bloody mary made with baconinfused vodka, chipotle pepper and lime juice packs a punch, garnished with bacon, pickled green beans, celery and olives.

Matt and Tony’s is named after owner Matt Sloan and his Austrian great-grandfather, Anton “Tony” Schabas, who was a pastry chef at the Waldorf-Astoria in New York City. Sloan previously held management positions with Matchbox Food Group and the Daikaya Group, and most recently served as the opening GM of Ada’s on the River in Alexandria, owned by Alexandria Restaurant Partners.

“They own the Matt and Tony’s building,” he explains. “When I told them I wanted to open my own restaurant, they offered to lease the building to me. They have been great partners.”

The modern but homey 3,000-square-foot space seats 87 inside, including 18 at a large bar, and 40 outside. Chef Todd Miller and sous-chef Tony Engel oversee the kitchen. Dinner menu standouts include a grilled pork chop with andouille sausage gravy, and seared rockfish with Parmesan potatoes and spinach. An extensive craft cocktail menu features both spirited and zero-proof options. mattandtonysva.com

Here’s one for the carnivores. At Puzukan Tan in Merrifield, a server seasons my tabletop grill with beef fat, then proceeds to grill the “Tan A” combination ($55), a meat-fest that includes thick slabs of pork belly and razor-thin slices of brisket, plus rib-eye steak and pork ribs marinated in soy and garlic. The aromas are as tantalizing as the drama as the server wields a pair of scissors and chef-like moves to cut the belly into bite-size pieces for dipping in three sauces. The regular combo— plenty of food for two people—comes with a plethora of accompaniments, including four banchan (spicy cucumber salad; kimchi; glass noodles; pickled radishes); a flavorful beef-radish soup; a leafy house salad; rice; steamed eggs; and corn sauteed with gooey mozzarella cheese.

Opened in October, the Korean barbecue restaurant is owned by brothers Sunghoon (Sam) and Kibum Kim, Seoul natives who gained restaurant experience in that city before relocating to the DMV in 2018, lured by the area’s large Korean population and robust economy. Puzukan means “butcher shop” in Korean; Tan means “charcoal.”

Together, the brothers also own Matsui Sushi & Ramen and Puzukan (a fast-casual Korean bowl concept) in Alexandria, as well as Rateba Grill & Ramen in Fairfax and a catering company in Manassas. A master butcher oversees the meat operations for all of their restaurants.

Puzukan Tan is 3,000 square feet and seats 60 inside and 20 outside, though the outdoor tables are not equipped with grills. The menu features pork and beef only—no chicken or seafood—with many Wagyu and dry-aged prime beef offerings. In addition to the four combination platters ($55 to $99 for regular; $105 to $190 for large) and a butcher’s omakase menu ($59 per person), items are offered a la carte. The restaurant has a beer and wine license, so pair a combo with soju. puzukantan.com

Tucked behind the bao bun eatery Bun’d Up in Westpost, Sparrow Room is a charming speakeasy-style lounge and mahjong parlor that serves dim sum, a few large plates and fabulous craft cocktails—including the Jungle Sparrow ($14), a draft concoction made with aged rum, Shaoxing rice wine, fino sherry, honey, pineapple and Campari and garnished with dehydrated pineapple and pineapple fronds. Light carbonation adds a tingle to this tasty quaff. sparrowroom.com