Home Plate

by David Hagedorn

Humble Pie

Tom Cardarelli had a plan. He would leave his executive chef’s job at Alexandria’s Vermilion restaurant, take some time off and then open a place of his own—probably a pizzeria.

The plan hit a snag. “I quit in February 2020, the worst possible timing,” he says. “Anyone interested in partnering up with me didn’t want to open a restaurant.” So he opened a food truck, tricking out a 20-foot trailer with a 600-degree, propane-powered Bakers Pride deck oven. Soon he was turning out Roman-style pies from a parking lot on Hume Avenue in Del Ray under the name Stracci Pizza, a venture he runs with his wife, Annalisa.

Stracci is short for stracciatella, which is pulled mozzarella cheese (Cardarelli makes his own) that’s then shredded and soaked in cream. The word also means “rags” in Italian. “It signifies humble beginnings. Hopefully this will become bigger than just a trailer,” the chef said during a phone call in early March.

It already has. Shortly after that call, Stracci Pizza announced that it would be occupying the building next to the lot where the truck is parked (the former Emma’s Espresso and Wine Bar space), selling drinks and snacks inside while continuing to serve pizzas from the trailer.

Roman-style pizza differs from Neapolitan-style in that the dough contains olive oil and the pies are rectangular. Cardarelli uses a sourdough crust that undergoes a slow, cold fermentation for 72 hours, and a simple sauce made with organic Bianco DiNapoli tomatoes. Each pie is constructed with a two-step baking process directly on the hearth. A first pass with a light coating of sauce and minimal toppings allows the crust to expand, followed by more toppings and a second pass through the oven. The result is a crisp, light, airy pizza that’s thicker than New York-style but thinner than Detroit-style.

Cardarelli offers five signature pizzas and a build-your-own option. The Brooklyner is topped with pepperoni, sausage, stracciatella, ricotta, Calabrian chilies and honey. The Erminia features garlic, spinach, artichokes and fontina cheese. The Stracci is a simple, classic combination of stracciatella, tomato, basil and olive oil.

The chef makes a limited supply of pizzas daily, so preordering is a must. His appetizers and desserts shouldn’t be passed up, either—especially the chicken-liver toast and the Marcona almond tart. straccipizza.com

The Oh Gee! Burger

Gee Whiz

Banking on the notion that a burger is never a bad idea (agreed!), restaurateurs Ian and Eric Hilton and chef Brendan L’Etoile rolled out a ghostkitchen burger concept in February. Gee Burger operates out of three of their Northern Virginia restaurants: Parc de Ville in the Mosaic District; Solace Outpost in Falls Church City; and Café Colline in Arlington’s Lee Heights Shops.

L’Etoile uses Allen Brothers 20%fat ground chuck to make his burgers, which are served on toasted sesame seed buns from Uptown Bakers in Hyattsville, Maryland. Most of the offerings are made with two 3-ounce patties smashed on a flattop griddle. “We cook them that way because we don’t want to be in the temperature business, especially when dealing with third-party app deliveries,” says Ian Hilton. “There’s nothing more angering than a bad burger.”

No complaints on my end. I ordered the Oh, Gee! Burger, topped with American cheese, Bibb lettuce, house-made pickles and a secret sauce that, if I had to guess, includes mayo and kimchi. It’s plenty juicy and quite delicious.

Other variations include the Gee Washington Carver (peanut butter, bacon, American cheese and fried shallots), Mellow Gee (Swiss cheese, caramelized onions and mushrooms) and the Kickin Gee (American cheese, spicy kimchi, pickled jalapenos, secret sauce). The singlepatty Lil Gee cheeseburger is perfect for kids or those with dainty appetites. The menu also includes a fried chicken sandwich and french fries— the only side dish.

Gee Burger emerged as a new source of revenue during the pandemic. “I have no idea what the life span will be,” Hilton says of the concept. “It’s something I’ve never done before and it’s kind of fun, but there’s a one in a hundred chance it becomes a new brand for us.”

Eat ’em while you can get ’em. Gee Burger is currently available for delivery though DoorDash, Uber Eats and Grubhub. Café Colline offers walk-in and takeout orders during select hours. geeburger.com