Kitchen Skills

Summer is ripe for working with sweet, tangy mangoes and papayas

BY JASON ROSS

Two of the world’s finest tropical fruits flood the produce aisles each summer. With colors ranging from golden yellow to deep red, and esh as sweet and tangy as candy, mangoes and papayas begin piling up for the season at the end of May and will run until September. This is the best time to try a ripe tropical treat. If you are not sure how to handle these fruits, here are some tips on selecting, peeling and cutting them, as well as a tropical tart recipe that features both delicious fruits.

MAKES 1 (10-INCH) TART, 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

1 (10-inch) tart shell (see recipe at right) 1½ cups lime curd (see recipe at right) 2 medium mangoes peeled and sliced ¼-inch thick (see cutting tips page 8) 1 small papaya peeled and sliced ¼-inch thick (see cutting tips page 8) 2 tablespoons lime juice 2 tablespoons powdered sugar

1. Scoop the lime curd into the baked tart shell, and using the back of a serving spoon or pastry knife, smooth and spread the lime curd to fill the shell. 2. Drizzle the lime juice over the fruit. Arrange the fruit in a pinwheel pattern (or any pattern you like), alternating papaya and mango around the tart. Sprinkle the tart liberally with powdered sugar using a sieve, if you have one, or sprinkle with your fingers or a spoon. Slice and serve. 3. The tart can be stored in the refrigerator for 4 to 6 hours, unwrapped, before serving.

MAKES 1½ CUPS, FOR 1 (10-INCH) TART SHELL

Tart and tangy, this curd makes the perfect foil to the sweet tropical fruit.

4 egg yolks 7 whole eggs 1¾ cups sugar 1¾ cups lime juice (from about 12 limes) 1 stick unsalted butter, cut into small cubes 1 tablespoon lime zest

1. In a medium size non-reactive pot, such as stainless steel or enamel cast iron, whisk together the egg yolks, whole eggs, sugar and lime juice. (You could make this recipe in a double boiler, using a medium sized mixing bowl over a pot of simmering water, but it will take longer to cook.) 2. Cook the curd over low heat stirring constantly for about 15 to 20 minutes, until the curd is thick like pudding. It will easily coat the back of a spoon and hold its shape if dolloped onto a plate. 3. As soon as the curd reaches the thick consistency, turn off the heat and stir in the cubed butter. The butter will help cool down the curd and prevent the eggs from over cooking and “scrambling.” Stir in lime zest. 4. Store wrapped with plastic touching the surface of the curd to prevent a skin from forming, and chill fully before use, about 1 hour. This can be refrigerated up to 5 days. (The assembled tart is best eaten the same day, but could be refrigerated for 2 to 3 days.)

MAKES 1 (10-INCH) TART SHELL, 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Here is a trusty tart dough using the classic method: mix, wrap and rest, roll, chill, bake with weights, cool and use with your favorite fi lling.

1½ sticks unsalted butter, cut into cubes and room temperature soft ½ cup sugar ½ teaspoon salt 1⁄8 teaspoon vanilla 2 medium eggs, beaten 1½ cups loosely scooped all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling out the dough pie weights or dry beans

1. Using a stand mixer or hand mixer, beat together the butter, sugar, salt and vanilla for about 3 minutes on medium speed until fully creamed, smooth and pale in color. 2. On low speed, add 1 egg and stir until incorporated. Scrape the bowl with a rubber spatula, then add the second egg and stir until incorporated on low speed. 3. Use a rubber spatula to start, and then your hands to mix in the flour. 4. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and press into a 1- to 2-inch thick disc. Chill in the refrigerator for 1 hour or until cold and firm. (The dough can keep refrigerated for a couple days before use.) 5. Remove the dough and allow to warm slightly for about 10 minutes. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into a circle about 12 inches in diameter and ¼-inch thick. Lift the rolled dough, and gently push it into a 10-inch tart pan, making sure the dough is snug against the corners. 6. Refrigerate the dough for 30 minutes and heat the oven to 350°F. 7. After the raw tart shell has chilled, use a small knife to trim any excess dough, leaving the dough a little taller than the tart pan. This will allow for some shrinkage during cooking. 8. Line the dough with parchment paper or aluminum foil and pour in pie weights or dry beans. Place on a sheet pan and “blind” bake in the oven for 20 minutes, rotating after 10, until the edges are browned. 9. Remove the weights and the paper or foil liner, and continue baking another 20 to 30 minutes until the tart is fully browned. 10. Cool the shell on a wire rack. The fully cooled shell can be wrapped and stored at room temperature for 1 day, or wrapped and stored in the freezer for 1 to 2 months.