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Marietta

Marietta

by Ezzo Sausage Company, here in Columbus. It’s a custom recipe just for us.”

As the pizza cooks, the little discs of pepperoni curl upward, cupping droplets of flavorful grease as their edges lightly char. It’s addicting and crave-worthy. If you move away, Massey’s will ship four partially baked pizzas, frozen and packed in dry ice, to most U.S. states including Alaska and Hawaii. — Lisa Sands

Massey’s Pizza has 15 locations throughout central Ohio and one location on Pawley’s Island, South Carolina. For more information, visit masseyspizza.com.

Other places to find Columbus Style pizza:

Rubino’s Pizza • Bexley This red-and-white-checkered pizza spot delightfully hangs on to another era and is still cash only. 2643 E. Main St., Bexley 43209, 614/235-1700, rubinosofbexley.com

Tommy’s Pizza • Various Locations Try the loaded All-The-Way pizza at this spot that has locations near The Ohio State University campus as well as in Upper Arlington and Dublin. tommyspizza.com

Terita’s Pizza • Columbus Pizza Connoisseurs of Columbus named this family-run spot Central Ohio’s Pizza of the Year in 2018 and 2019. 3905 Cleveland Ave., Columbus 44324, 614/475-2100, teritas.com

Brier Hill Style

This Catholic church in Youngstown has been selling its take on the region’s working-class-inspired pizza style as a fundraiser since the 1950s.

St. Anthony of Padua

St. Anthony of Padua in Youngstown’s Brier Hill neighborhood had been serving its signature style of pizza for decades before the pandemic forced it to put its weekly Friday sale on hold. When the church brought back the sale on Saturdays in 2020, Ernie DiRenzo — a retiree who manages the volunteers who work the fundraiser — was concerned customers might not return. It turns out he had nothing to worry about. “The first week, we sold out in a couple hours,” he recalls. “The second week, it was an hour. The third week, it was half an hour.”

St. Anthony of Padua’s Brier Hill style of pizzas — comparable to Philadelphia’s tomato pie — is deceptively simple: red sauce topped with red and green peppers and Romano cheese. DiRenzo says they’ll add hot peppers or sausage upon request, but that’s about it.

The style of pizza has its roots in the Youngstown working-class neighborhood named for former Ohio Gov. David Tod’s estate, built on a hill festooned with brier plants. The area drew scores of immigrants, first the Welsh who mined the coal seam, and eventually the first Italians in Youngstown.

Soon coke and blast furnaces — many operated by the Tod family’s companies — sprung up throughout Youngstown. And in Italian neighborhoods, communal brick ovens were built, stoked by the men before leaving for work

at the mills. The women would bake bread, and any scraps of dough too small for bread would become pizza, adorned with whatever could be found in a working-class Italian home — basically cheese, peppers and tomato sauce.

“It was a result of their creativity,” DiRenzo says. “I’m 72 years old and I grew up eating it. Who knows how long my mother was making it before I was born.”

St. Anthony of Padua began making the pizzas as a church fundraiser during the 1950s. During the 1970s, the parish priest, the Rev. John DeMarinis, made a marketing contribution to the fundraiser and started calling the style Brier Hill pizza. The name stuck, and even today, you can walk into any pizza place in the area, ask for Brier Hill pizza, and they’ll know what you want. — Vince Guerrieri

St. Anthony of Padua in Youngstown offers pick-up pizza sales. Pre-orders start Wednesday; call 330/360-7663. Pick up is Saturday from 9 a.m. to noon. 1155 Turin St., Youngstown 44510

Other places to find Brier Hill Style pizza:

Avalon Downtown Youngstown Brier Hill pizza is a staple at this Italian spot. Pick it up hot and ready or take and bake. 17 W. Federal St., Youngstown 44503, 330/740-0000, avalondowntown.com

Wedgewood Pizza Various Locations No less an authority than Food Network recognized Wedgewood Pizza for its Brier Hill style. Locations in Austintown, Boardman and Howland; wedgewoodpizza.com

MVR • Youngstown Take in the bocce-league action and eat Brier Hill pizza at this classic spot. 410 N. Walnut St., Youngstown 44505, 330/7467067, youngstownmvr.com

Ohio Valley Style

Steubenville is the epicenter of this hot-cold pizza style and where the DiCarlo family perfected its approach.

DiCarlo’s Pizza

If you know, you know. Those who grew up in the southeast quadrant of the state are raving fans of Ohio Valley-style pizza, a variety that originated in Steubenville with the DiCarlo family.

DiCarlo’s Pizza began as an offshoot of the family’s bakery, known for its Italian bread. Primo DiCarlo introduced a pizza that was like the ones he enjoyed in Italy during World War II. In 1945, he and his brother, Galdo, opened the first licensed pizza shop in the state of Ohio.

The rectangular, square-cut pie offers an unusual hot-cold taste sensation in every bite. It has its share of skeptics — those who simply can’t imagine a pizza garnished with unmelted cheese and cold toppings.

“When it is prepared properly, you take one bite and you’re hooked. I’ve been eating it my whole life, and I am never sick of it,” says Anna DiCarlo, who today runs DiCarlo’s Pizza with several family members.

It’s surprisingly simple yet difficult to perfect. The company’s signature Italian bread dough is stretched into rectangle sheet pans and coated with a naturally sweet, lightly seasoned tomato sauce and baked, unadorned, at a high temperature.

Right out of the oven the base is cut into squares and topped with a generous mound of freshly grated aged provolone and

Other places to find Ohio Valley Style pizza:

Ray’s Pizza • Wintersville Locals know and love this no-frills spot, located in a village just west of Steubenville. 754 Main St., Wintersville 43953, 740/264-9235

Ohio Valley Pizza Co. Medina Dave and Amy Byers opened their shop in 2020, after they couldn’t find their favorite pizza style locally. 426 S. Court St., Medina 44256, 330/952-2627, ohiovalleypizza.com

Iggy’s Pizza & Pasta Toronto This spot along the Ohio River is known for its traditional Ohio Valley-style square slices. 1332 Franklin Ave., Toronto 43964, 740/537-4847, iggyspizza.com

uncooked pepperoni, or other items if desired. The cheese melts just enough. The bread stays crisp. Mouth and mind are, momentarily, confused.

“If you hear a crunch, it is done right,” DiCarlo says.

She recommends ordering the basic cheese and pepperoni and maybe adding a side of a few banana peppers or house-made fried chili oil. DiCarlo offers an important piece of advice to those unfamiliar with the style.

“It’s meant to be eaten quickly. It’s instant gratification,” she says. “It’s sometimes referred to as parking-lot pizza.”

Back in the day, when her dad and uncle were making pizzas, it was called “poor man’s cheesecake.” It was an affordable luxury. It still is. Two squares with pepperoni cost less than most coffee shop drinks.

Another upside: You’ll never burn the roof of your mouth on the first bite. — Lisa Sands

DiCarlo’s Pizza has seven locations throughout Ohio and operates shops in West Virginia and Pennsylvania. For more information, visit dicarlospizza.com.

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NATIONAL ROAD BIKEWAY

As night fell on Friday, March 21, 1952, a large crowd gathered in anticipation outside the Cleveland Arena, spilling out onto Euclid Avenue. It was hours before the event that local disc jockey Alan Freed had been touting on the radio for weeks, and those gathered were getting more unruly by the second. Teenagers and young adults jostled for position for a chance to get inside the arena and out on the dance floor.

There had been no advance notice of the event in any of the city’s three newspapers, except for a small item in The Plain Dealer. The musical acts to perform at the dance — a lineup that included Varetta Dillard, The Dominoes and Paul Williams — weren’t even widely known at the time. But somewhere along the way, Freed’s imaginatively titled Moondog Coronation Ball had tapped into something that even he couldn’t contain.

The man formerly known as Albert Freed had first become interested in radio a little more than a decade earlier, while attending Ohio State University in the early 1940s. Once he saw the radio station on campus, “that was it,” he later recalled in a 1957 interview with Pageant Magazine, after he had become one of the most famous disc jockeys in America. “I was gone.”

After growing up in Salem, Ohio, Freed started out working for WKST, a radio station across the state line in New Castle, Pennsylvania, where he did a little bit of everything. From there, he went to WKBN in Youngstown, where he did news and sports. He stayed in Youngstown for a couple years before ending up at WAKR in Akron, which afforded him his first opportunity as a disc jockey.

“One night, as I finished the 11:10 sports broadcast I got a very quick call saying the disc jockey for the 11:15 show had not shown up,” he recalled in a 1958 interview. “So, I did the show. The next day the sponsor called me up and said he liked the show. The owner of the station did too, so he fired the other guy and gave me the job.”

From Akron, Freed ended up in Cleveland, but not on the radio at first. He ended up on WXEL-TV, hosting an afternoon movie. After his noncompete clause expired in 1951, he went back to radio on WJW (now WKNR-AM). While in Cleveland, he met Leo Mintz, owner of the city’s legendary Record Rendezvous store on Prospect Avenue downtown.

Mintz was doing brisk business selling records by Black rhythm-and-blues acts. He was selling them to white kids, too. He knew there was a market and struck a partnership. Mintz would advise Freed on popular records, and Freed would play them. One of the records Freed played was Louis Hardin’s “Moondog Symphony,” and he started talking to the imaginary Moondog on the air. Switchboards to the radio station lit up, and Freed started referring to himself as the “King of the Moondoggers,” and his show became known as “The Moondog Show.”

It caught on, too, enough so that Mintz and Freed wanted to stage a public event featuring the music they referred to as rock ’n’ roll. (The term had been in use before Freed’s birth, sometimes as a euphemism for sex, but he popularized it to describe the music.) Plans were being made for the Moondog Coronation Ball, a spectacle that, although short-lived, would go down in history as the first rock ’n’ roll concert.

osters promoting the Moondog Coronation

PBall said it would go from 10 p.m. until 2 a.m. — coinciding with Freed’s radio show. In fact, the event was scheduled to be broadcast live on WJW. Five musical acts were listed on posters for the show, but “many others!” were also promised.

In a 2012 BBC interview, Jimmy Sutphin, whose father Al built the Cleveland Arena 15 years earlier for hockey, recalled being across the street. “The crowds were screaming, ‘let us in’, and banging on the doors,” he said. “It was chaos.”

Finally, at 9:30 p.m., the throng broke through the arena doors. Ushers were utterly unequipped. “You had the

same ticket-takers at the door that you had for the hockey games,” Freed’s brother David recalled years later for The Plain Dealer. “These were older gents in black Homburg hats, union people who moved slowly. They never handled a crowd like this.”

Reinforcements were called in — another 30 police officers and 40 firefighters. Newspapers the next day estimated the crowd anywhere from 20,000 to 25,000, roughly double the arena’s capacity.

“It’s a wonder no one was killed,” Valena Minor Williams recalled during a National Public Radio story coinciding with the event’s 50th anniversary. She had covered the Moondog Coronation Ball for Cleveland’s Call and Post newspaper.

Peter Hastings was there with Cleveland’s Hastings, Willinger and Associates Advertising Art. He’d set up in the balcony to take photos.

“It was frightening,” he recalled. “I took the picture, then we got out of there as fast as we could.”

“It was madness,” said Bill Lemmon, who was executive vice president at WJW at the time. “I saw knives flashing.”

Signs and curtains were ripped down. People jumped onto the stage. The first act of the night, Paul Williams & His Hucklebuckers, couldn’t even finish its set.

The Cleveland police shut down the bar at the arena at 10:30 p.m. Freed came out and pleaded for calm. Ultimately, the live broadcast ended too. At 11:15 p.m. the Cleveland Fire Department ordered the ball stopped. The chastened crowd left. There were five arrests for drunkenness and one for fighting.

“When the dance was stopped, I went off and cried,” Freed said on the radio the next day. “I’m not ashamed to admit it. Yes, I cried. I was sick at heart for what had happened.”

Downtown’s Cleveland Arena (above left) was built to host hockey games. The poster for the Moondog Coronation Ball promised a four-hour show (above).

he event’s promoters maintained that the ball

Thad not been oversold. Mintz said 8,600 tickets were sold in advance — well below the arena’s capacity of 9,700. In his radio address the next day, Freed said a mob of 10,000 gathered outside, “7,000 of them without tickets.” Years later, it was revealed that a second night had been organized and tickets printed and sold — but the tickets all had the March 21 date on them, accounting for the overflow crowd.

Freed’s reputation suffered no real damage following the Moondog Coronation Ball. If anything, it burnished his image. After all, rock ’n’ roll was by its nature rebellious.

Charges were considered, but never filed, and the ball was a financial success.

“Everybody had such a grand time breaking into the Arena that they didn’t ask for money back,” Freed said in a 1958 interview.

Instead of dances, Freed began organizing concerts (unlike the ball, they had reserved seating) both at the Cleveland Arena and Cleveland Public Hall. He maintained his frenetic pace on the radio as well, even broadcasting while convalescing from a severe car wreck while driving back to his home in Shaker Heights in 1953.

Eventually, New York City, which had previously rejected him for having a Midwestern accent that was too grating, came calling. Freed was offered $75,000 (equivalent to almost 10 times that today) to come to WINS in New York in 1954.

Soon he had become a media empire unto himself. In addition to his work on the radio, he continued to appear at rock shows up and down the East Coast and make appearances on radio and television. He was earning hundreds of thousands of dollars annually.

In 1958, he resigned from WINS following police involvement at another of his rock concerts, this time in Boston. Undaunted, he went to WABC, also in New York. But eventually, it all started to fall apart. Following Congressional hearings into the rigging of TV prime-time game shows, the Subcommittee on Legislative Oversight turned its attention to payola, the practice of gifts and money being given to disc jockeys to influence what records got played.

Freed refused to sign an affidavit that said he hadn’t taken payola — because he had. (For years, he was listed as co-writer of Chuck Berry’s “Maybellene” and “Sincerely” by The Moonglows — a common practice to influence disc jockeys.) He was indicted and ultimately pleaded guilty. He was fined $300 and given a suspended prison sentence, but he was ruined. Soon the IRS came around, charging him with income tax evasion.

Freed died in California in 1965 at the age of 43 and was virtually destitute by that time. The official cause of death was internal bleeding related to cirrhosis of the liver. He hadn’t really taken care of himself, but after he was banished from radio he drank even more. “[Alan Freed] died of a broken heart because they took his microphone away,” his brother David said in a Plain Dealer interview in 1985.

In death, Freed became almost as nomadic as his radio career. He was cremated, and his remains were initially taken to Ferncliff Cemetery, in Westchester County, New York, which is the final resting place of other notables, including John Lennon and Cab Calloway.

In 1986, Freed was a charter inductee into the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, and in 2002, Freed’s urn was brought back to Cleveland by his family and ultimately entombed at the Rock Hall before it moved again in 2014.

His final resting place — like those of many Clevelanders who made their mark on the world — is Lake View Cemetery, less than 4 miles down Euclid Avenue from the former site of the Cleveland Arena. Family, fans and musicians came to lay him to rest. Jimmy Clanton, who’d co-starred with Freed in “Go, Johnny, Go!” sang “Just a Dream,” and Steven Van Zandt — a musician, actor and himself a disc jockey — emceed the event.

A black graphite memorial with a rounded top marks Freed’s grave. It bears an etched image of the disc jockey on one side above an epitaph that offers perspective on his role in the rise of rock ’n’ roll music. The other side, the one that visitors often see first as they walk toward it, is etched to look like a jukebox.

Alan Freed moved on to New York City radio following his time at Cleveland’s WJW.

COLUMBUS

Get a flavor of our capital city’s food and drink scene with the help of these destinations and tours that offer a sampling of what’s cooking. By Nicholas Dekker

BUDD DAIRY FOOD HALL

Budd Dairy Food Hall

In 2021, Cameron Mitchell Restaurants brought to life the long-dormant Budd Dairy building, a beautiful structure that’s a centerpiece of Columbus’ growing Italian Village neighborhood. Almost right away, the Budd Dairy Food Hall was named one of the “10 Best New Food Halls in the Country” by Fodor’s Travel. Spanning two levels and a rooftop bar, the hall features cuisine by 10 chefs on the first floor and offers centralized seating areas.

“We have something for everyone,” says Jeremy Hughes, the food hall’s general manager. “Tacos, fried chicken, lobster rolls, pizza, poke, wings, American classics …”

Highlights of the food lineup include modern Filipino street fare at Boni, Mexican cuisine from Tacos Rudos, pizza at Borgata and fried catfish and gumbo at Modern Southern Table. Two incubator spaces help local businesses test new recipes and grow their followings: Hatch features savory meals, while Sugar focuses on dessert vendors. The expansive food hall offers multiple indoor and outdoor seating areas for connecting with fellow diners.

“Our cozy Budd’s lounge, spacious main hall with its giant video wall, our second floor Simon’s Bar and game room, and our lively heated and enclosed rooftop patio all provide a great place to enjoy time with friends and family,” Hughes adds. 1086 N. Fourth St., Columbus 43201, 614/505-2630, budddairyfoodhall.com

Spanning two levels and a rooftop bar, Budd Dairy Food Hall (above) features cuisine by 10 chefs on the first floor as well as centralized seating areas (below).

North Market

The North Market is a mainstay of Columbus’ food scene, the place where residents and visitors have gone to discover the flavors of the city for nearly 150 years. Founded in 1876, North Market Downtown is a vibrant public market that houses a diverse mix of independent merchants, farmers and makers.

The original downtown location and North Market Bridge Park, which opened in the Columbus suburb of Dublin in late 2020, fulfill the organization’s mission of highlighting the diversity and vibrancy of the local food scene by promoting great businesses.

“At both markets, guests can eat, drink, shop and enjoy the best of what’s local, fresh and authentic,” says Rick Harrison Wolfe, executive director and CEO of the market.

The downtown location is home to more than 30 vendors. Visitors can stroll the market hall to pick up coffee, snacks and hot meals (even groceries like quality meats, cheeses, produce, bread, wine and flowers) before finding a seat upstairs. Diners can take their taste buds on a world tour, whether they want ramen or pizza, Somali stew or Nepali dumplings, burgers and barbecue or vegan soul food. The market has also been the launching point for several notable businesses. (Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams first opened there in 2002.) The Bridge Park market hall in Dublin features a similar mix of local businesses, serving up eats ranging from

North Market’s outdoor dining area during a Night Market event; Momo Ghar’s Momos, Himalayan dumplings filled with meat or vegetables (above)

ON VIEW

Pair your exploration of Columbus’ food scene with plans to see one of these exhibitions.

Marvel: Universe of Super Heroes at COSI Through May 30 Fans of Marvel comics, movies and TV shows can come face to face with more than 300 original artifacts at COSI. The interactive exhibition features original artwork, costumes, props and more. (Read more about this exhibition on page 34.) cosi.org

Roy Lichtenstein: History in the Making: 1948-1960 at Columbus Museum of Art March 5 through June 5 This Columbus Museum of Art exhibition explores the early years of the celebrated pop artist’s work. The collection features around 90 Lichtenstein pieces, including examples of his brief forays in abstract expressionism. columbusmuseum.org

Columbus Food Adventures in the city’s Short North Arts District (left); the tour visits Hot Chicken Takeover (below)

sushi to tacos to chicken shawarma. Downtown: 59 Spruce St., Columbus 43215, 614/463-9664; Dublin: 6750 Longshore St., Dublin 43017, 614/683-8800; northmarket.org

Columbus Food Adventures

Launched in 2010, Columbus Food Adventures introduces travelers and locals alike to culinary and historical delights throughout the city. The family-run company offers roughly a dozen tours — some on foot and some by van — with both seasonal and year-round itineraries that explore everything from taco trucks to desserts to international eats.

Walking tours are loaded with history as participants get to know signature Columbus neighborhoods and suburbs like the Short North Arts District, Franklinton, Grandview, Dublin and Worthington. The German Village and Brewery District tours are loaded with stories, as guests walk the brick-lined streets of the city’s best preserved historic neighborhoods. Knowledgeable guides introduce tour-takers to local restaurants, where they often get to meet the owners and learn their stories while sampling signature food and drinks.

“Many tour guests reflect on how unique an opportunity it is for them to experience so many good restaurants in such a short period of time,” says Columbus Food Adventures co-owner Bethia Woolf. “Local guests often remark on how they never would have known about the restaurants on the tour. One of the most satisfying things for us as food tour operators is when we run tours

and find people from previous tours sharing their new find with friends and family they have brought back with them.” For more information, visit columbusfoodadventures.com.

Trolley District

The Trolley District emerged out of a collection of historic structures that were once the hub of Columbus’ streetcar operations. The buildings will include a full restaurant and beer garden from Columbus Brewing Co. as well as the East Market, set to open in spring 2022 with 16 local vendors. It features a variety of tastes, from Mediterranean delights at Taste of Greece and Moroccan Food to New Orleans eats at Creole 2 Geaux to breakfast at Winston’s Coffee & Waffles.

The first business, which opened in December 2021, was The Railhouse bar, followed by the downstairs speakeasy Switch with its collection of unique bourbons. Visitors can order a drink and stroll the market or pick up a meal. Public seating lines the second-floor mezzanine, and a large patio wraps around the building. The East Market’s operations and leasing director Aubrey Stevens says local merchant The Butcher & Grocer rounds out the market by offering a butcher shop, fishmonger, cheese counter, deli, green grocer and bottle shop.

The Trolley District’s East Market is a fresh entrant to the Columbus food scene. It is set to open with 16 local vendors in spring 2022.

“Our vendors are all small, local businesses,” Stevens says. “A lot of them have been regulars at farmers markets around the city, and this is their first big step into a storefront.” 212 Kelton Ave., Columbus 43205, eastmarketcolumbus.com

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AMISH COUNTRY

Eat, shop and get away from the hustle and bustle by visiting these six picturesque Ohio counties that offer a taste of rural living. By Lisa Galek

COURTESY OF HOLMES COUNTY CHAMBER OF COMMERCE & TOURISM BUREAU HOLMES COUNTY

HOLMES COUNTY

Considered the heart of our state’s Amish Country, Holmes County is home to the second-largest Amish population in the United States, making it a popular destination for travelers hoping to learn more about a simpler way of life.

“It’s very tranquil and peaceful,” says Ruth Schlabach, owner of Sheiyah Market in Berlin. “People feel like they can slow down in Holmes County.”

A favorite place to stay in the area is The Barn Inn Bed and Breakfast in Millersburg. This historic barn turned resort is the perfect place to enjoy a quiet weekend away from it all. For breakfast, guests feast on a four-course, chef-prepared meal made each morning with locally sourced foods and some Amish-inspired recipes. Accommodations range from a standard room to a luxurious king suite with a fireplace and Jacuzzi.

For owners Gene and Michelle Rowland, who took over in 2017, The Barn Inn Bed and Breakfast is more than a place to sleep — it’s an experience. They can help visitors plan excursions into Amish Country or just stay indoors and enjoy some quiet time at the inn.

“Our guests come here to get away from a lot of the noise that’s going on right now in the world,” says Gene Rowland. “They get refreshed and renewed.” A 10-minute drive away, Sheiyah Market in Berlin is a must-shop location for visitors to Holmes County. The space was originally a working dairy barn but was converted into a smaller shop in 1988. Today, it is a 55,000-square-foot shopping complex featuring four unique stores. Sheiyah Style Boutique offers clothing and accessories. The Village Gift Barn features transitional home decor, while Country Gatherings focuses on primitive and farmhouse home decor. Finally, The Gardens carries houseplants and everything you need to decorate outdoors. Travelers can also grab a cappuccino or smoothie at the new Buggy Brew Coffee Co. The sprawling campus offers beautiful outdoor spaces with scenic views, quaint walking paths and family-friendly play areas. Despite its size, Sheiyah is known for its outstanding customer service.

“Our designers will work with you,” says Schlabach. “They’ll help you decorate your mantel […] or put together an outfit for a special event.”

Another 10 minutes of travel east on state Route 39 brings you to Der Dutchman in Walnut Creek. The same Mennonite family

DER DUTCHMAN

SHEIYAH MARKET, THE BARN INN BED AND BREAKFAST (INSET)

The Barn Inn Bed and Breakfast

6838 County Rd. 203, Millersburg 44654 330/674-7600, thebarninn.com

Sheiyah Market

4755 St. Rte. 39, Berlin 44610 330/893-2648, sheiyahmarket.com

Der Dutchman

Various locations, dhgroup.com has owned this chain of seven restaurants since 1969. The Walnut Creek location is the original flagship restaurant, and it seats over 400 guests. Diners can expect genuine Amish kitchen cooking in a homey, rural setting with lots of natural light streaming in through the windows.

“There’s this wonderful view of the valley to the north,” says Vicki VanNatta, public relations coordinator at Der Dutchman. “Many people come, and they want to sit by the windows to see that beautiful view.”

As far as food, the broasted chicken is a home-cooked favorite because it’s breaded and pressure-fried to give it a tender, crispy taste. Pies, cookies and cake rolls are bakery bestsellers, too. Der Dutchman also has locations in Berlin and Sugarcreek.

Stop Here From stylish furniture to fun farm animals, here are some other great Holmes County spots.

Amish & Mennonite Heritage Center Visit to learn about the faith, lifestyle and culture of the area’s Amish and Mennonite communities. Docent-led tours happen every 30 minutes. 5798 County Rd. 77, Millersburg 44654, 330/893-3192, behalt.com

Boyd & Wurthmann Restaurant What began as a small grocery store in the 1930s now houses a home-style restaurant. Be sure to order a slice of pie. 4819 E. Main St., Berlin 44610, 330/893-4000, boydandwurthmann.com

Hershberger’s Farm and Bakery It is a bakery, produce store and market, too, but the fun (and adorable) farm animal petting area shouldn’t be missed. 5452 St. Rte. 557, Millersburg 44654, 330/674-6096, hershbergersfarmandbakery.com

Holmes County Open Air Art Museum Walk the Inn at Honey Run’s 1-5.-mile nature trail that showcases art installations that are nestled within the natural environment. 6920 County Rd. 203, Millersburg 44654, 330/674-0011, innathoneyrun.com

Homestead Furniture Visit the Hershberger family’s beautiful showroom and work with designers to create a stylish piece for your home. 8233 St. Rte. 241, Mount Hope 44660, 866/674-4902, homesteadfurnitureonline.com

Tuscarawas County

Bordering Holmes County on the east, Tuscarawas County and its town of Sugarcreek draws travelers who are interested in visiting the “Little Switzerland of Ohio.” Settled by Amish families as well as Swiss and German immigrants, cheesemaking was a way of life here, giving the town its distinctive Alpine-style appearance and nickname.

Broad Run Cheesehouse just outside Sugarcreek has long been known for its cheese and remains a family-owned and -operated business. Visitors OHIO STAR THEATER can also stop by the adjacent Han’s Place, named in honor of cheese house founder Hans Schindler. The winemaking facility, tasting room and cafe offers a large outdoor patio and boardwalks that climb the hillside to seating areas.

Just 2 miles west, travelers will find Der Dutchman’s Dutch Valley campus. The destination provides the opportunity to eat, shop, relax and be entertained. In addition to Dutch Valley Restaurant, Dutch Valley Market and Dutch Valley Gifts, the site is also home to the Carlisle Inn Sugarcreek and the Ohio Star Theater. The theater offers a lineup of family-friendly stage productions and musical acts throughout the year. Broad Run Cheesehouse: 6011 Old Route 39 NW, Dover 44622, 330/343-4108, broadruncheese.com; Dutch Valley: 1343 Old Route 39, Sugarcreek 44681, dhgroup.com; For information about other destinations in Tuscarawas County, visit traveltusc.com.

WAYNE COUNTY

Just north of Holmes County, travelers cross into Wayne County, where they can enjoy the sights of rolling hills, picturesque farms and one-of-a-kind locations that make the area a draw for tourists. When traveling through Ohio’s Amish communities on the weekends, do keep in mind that most businesses are closed on Sundays.

“They want to give their employees time to go to church,” says Glenda Lehman Ervin, director of marketing for Lehman’s. “That’s just something that’s important in this area.”

Ervin’s farther, Jay Lehman, founded Lehman’s in the community of Kidron in 1955. Today, it is a sprawling 40,000-square-foot market that feels like 10 stores in one. Lehman’s, which started as a small business serving locals, is dedicated to preserving tools and techniques of the past and now focuses on a wide range of nonelectric items, ranging from gardening supplies to gas-powered refrigerators.

“What we want to do is help customers take the next step on their journey to a simpler life,” says Ervin. Customers include those who want to be more self-reliant by learning new skills like soap- or candle-making. Lehman’s also offers products for folks who want to depend less on electricity or live off the grid. If you’re visiting on a weekend, sign up online in advance for classes on do-it-yourself topics that include cheesemaking and beekeeping. If you’re planning to explore the whole complex, expect to spend several hours browsing the store’s extensive offerings.

Across the street from Lehman’s, enjoy a peaceful getaway at The Storybook Inn of Kidron. This 1900s farmhouse was fully updated and renovated to open for overnight stays in March 2021. The rooms are themed and decorated to reflect favorite stories from childhood, such as The Chronicles of Narnia, Anne of Green Gables and Alice in Wonderland. The space is perfect for large family reunions, family vacations or anniversary getaways.

Visitors rent the entire inn, which sleeps up to 10 people and has a keyless entry. There are three bedrooms and two bathrooms, including a rain shower. The full kitchen has everything you need to prepare a meal during your stay.

“We usually provide a loaf of bread that I get from a local bakery down the road,” says Toni Studer, co-owner of The Storybook Inn of Kidron. “Just to give guests a little touch of Amish Country.”

Visitors can also relax on the large front porch, which has Amish-made seating and a beautiful view of the road to watch buggies roll past.

Drive 10 minutes north on Kidron Road to U.S. Route 30 and you’ll find the Dutch Kitchen in Dalton. The new owners renovated the original 1858 Victorian-era restaurant, giving the interior a modern farmhouse-style makeover. With the updates, visitors will find an expanded buffet with double the space for hot soups and fresh salad bar options. The restaurant still offers all your favorite comfort foods in a family-friendly setting.

“We’ve got home-cooked type foods,” says Delight Howells, director and owner at Dutch Kitchen. “It’s something people crave but don’t really make so much anymore at home.”

Lehman’s

4779 Kidron Rd., Kidron 44618 800/438-5346, lehmans.com

The Storybook Inn of Kidron

4680 Kidron Rd., Kidron 44618 330/828-1126 thestorybookinnofkidron.com

Dutch Kitchen

14278 Lincoln Way E., Dalton 44618 330/683-0530, dutchkitchen.net

THE STORYBOOK INN OF KIDRON

Stop Here

From jams and jellies to pies and cakes, here are a few other great Wayne County spots.

J.M Smucker Co. Store & Cafe Step inside the white wooden barn and browse a variety of Smucker’s fruit spreads, peanut butter, kitchen accessories, apparel and gift baskets. 333 Wadsworth Rd., Orrville 44667, 330/684-1500, jmsmucker.com

Troyer’s Home Pantry Dating back to the early 1960s, this bakery and coffee shop makes tasty pies, rolls, cakes, cookies and breads. Wooster and Apple Creek locations; troyershomepantry.com

Marshallville Packing Co. Choose from a line of old-world sausages and meats, including fresh locally raised beef, pork and chicken, at this family spot founded in 1960. 50 E. Market St., Marshallville 44645, 330/855-2871, marshallville-meats.com

DUTCH KITCHEN

Geauga County

With the fourth-largest Amish population in the nation, Geauga County is home to great food destinations. If you’re already visiting nearby Trumbull County (read more on page 129), add these stops to your itinerary since they’re just a five-minute drive down the road.

Mary Yoder’s Amish Kitchen in Middlefield serves traditional comfort foods at reasonable prices. The place is known for its fried chicken and mashed potatoes. Take home some fresh-baked bread, pies or desserts from the bakery. Or browse the gift shop to find a fun souvenir.

Less than 3 miles down the road at Middlefield Original Cheese Co-Op, shoppers can browse a variety of cheeses at this charming shop and factory in one. Milk is processed into locally made cheeses like Monterey Jack, colby or mild cheddar. The store also stocks cheese, meats, crackers, nuts, jellies and jams. Mary Yoder’s Amish Kitchen: 14743 N. State St., Middlefield 44062, 440/632-1939, maryyodersamishkitchen.com; Middlefield Original Cheese Co-Op: 16942 Kinsman Rd., Middlefield 44062, 440/632-5567; For information about other destinations in Geauga County, visit destinationgeauga.com.

TRUMBULL COUNTY

Located on the northeastern edge of Ohio, Trumbull County’s rural areas include the small pre-Civil War town of Mesopotamia, located near the Geauga County border. The area is home to some folks from the Middlefield community, the world’s fourth-largest Amish settlement.

“It’s a historic village,” says Patty Krejca, owner of Between Two Rivers Trading Co. in Mesopotamia. “There’s a lot of different landmarks and a cemetery with some unusual tombstones.”

Visitors to Between Two Rivers Trading Co. shouldn’t expect a traditional consignment shop when they walk inside. Instead, the eclectic store features work by over 50 local artisans and craftspeople. The business opened in 2014 with just eight artists displaying their work. Today, customers can shop for interesting items like restored stained glass lamps, soaps and candles made by local artisans or live-edge wood furniture.

“We have unique items. Most of it is one of a kind,” says Krejca. “Because we’re all working artists, if somebody wants something in a different color — in jewelry or beads or stained glass — we can make it for them.” Pets are welcome to come inside, too. Ask to see Tom Tom, the store cat, when you stop in to visit.

Nearby at End of the Commons General Store, travelers can enjoy a pleasant trip down memory lane.

“We’re the oldest continuously operating general store in Ohio,” says Peter Schaden, owner of End of the Commons. “The general store was built in 1840 and has never closed.”

BETWEEN TWO RIVERS TRADING CO.

Years ago, locals would come to the store to pick up everything from food to mail. (You could even order a casket.) Today, the top shelves of this 12,000-square-foot shop are filled with nostalgic memorabilia and antiques — 90% of which were sold in the store at one time or another. Customers are drawn to the sentimental feel at End of the Commons General Store, from the creaky wooden floors to the selection of old-time penny candies and glass soda pop bottles. Another bestseller is the handmade fry pies stuffed with fruity fillings and coated in a sweet vanilla glaze.

Want to learn more about Amish daily life while you’re in the area? Consider booking a trip with Ridgeview Tours. The operation provides cultural tours for groups of 25 people or more. Go on a guided excursion to experience an Amish wedding dinner or a real buggy ride.

“The number one specialty I have is teaching people about Between Two Rivers Amish culture,” says Sharon Grover, Trading Co. owner of Ridgeview Tours. “People 4367 St. Rte. 87, really appreciate learning about a Mesopotamia 44439 culture that’s actually in the United 330/885-0005 States, maybe an hour drive from their house.” End of the Commons

Grover has been leading tours General Store more than two decades. She says 8719 St. Rte. 534, visitors are most interested in the Mesopotamia 44439 ways Amish communities live 440/693-4295 without electricity and Amish endofthecommons.com schooling, which typically goes up to eighth grade. Ridgeview is also Ridgeview Tours a working, 101-acre farm, but it is 5488 Kinsman Rd., only open to the public for limited Mesopotamia 44062 hours during the strawberry season 440/221-1441 in June. ridgeviewtours.com

Adams County

Near the southwest border of Ohio, Adams County is home to the Wheat Ridge Amish community. When Amish families first settled in the Appalachian foothills of southern Ohio in the 1970s, they opened several stores that would eventually become must-visit local attractions. Miller’s Bakery, Furniture and Bulk Foods in West Union features three large buildings where travelers can browse for a little bit of everything. Miller’s furniture store covers 34,000 square feet and offers traditional Amish-built furniture, from solid oak and cherry tables and chairs to quilt racks and bread boxes. The bakery features treats such as fruit pies, fresh breads and turnovers. Customers can shop for favorites like deli sandwiches and Amish steel-cut oats in the bulk foods area.

Just 15 minutes away is Yoder’s Furniture, Bakery and Bulk Foods (formerly known as Keim Family Market and Deli) in Seaman. While this market is a bit smaller than Miller’s, it has a little bit of everything. It’s a great place to enjoy a deli sandwich or some fresh baked goods. In addition, Yoder’s offers an excellent selection of outdoor furniture, including Adirondack chairs, wooden sheds and play sets. Miller’s Bakery, Furniture and Bulk Foods: 960 Wheat Ridge Rd., West Union 45693, 937/544-8524; Yoder’s Furniture, Bakery and Bulk Foods: 2621 Burnt Cabin Rd., Seaman 45679, 937/386-9995; For information about other destinations in Adams County, visit adamscountytravel.org.

YODER’S FURNITURE, BAKERY & BULK FOODS

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