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Το ένδυμα και το περίβλημα ως φορείς κοινωνικού μηνύματος.

Page 1


εισαγωγή. //σ. 04

αφορμή

//σ. 10

μορφή > περιεχόμενο: Coleridge Wilde, Formalism

μορφή < περιεχόμενο: Jameson, Lukacs.

μορφή // περιεχόμενο: Kant, Trotsky.

Issey Miyake: A POC

Sou Fujimoto: House NA

Do-Ho Suh: Passage/s

//σ. 22

24

36

41

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty [28]

Daniel Libeskind: Military History Museum Dresden [35]

00.[εισαγωγή.]

επιδιώκουν να δημιουργήσουν “τέλειες”, άνετες και

μορφές για το ανθρώπινο σώμα.

Από την άλλη πλευρά, η αρχιτεκτονική και η

διαφέρουν με πολλούς τρόπους, όπως το γεγονός ότι η προϊόν μόδας

[αφορμή.] [στόχοι.]

Pleats Please

Μορφή > Περιεχόμενο:

Coleridge, Wilde, Formalism.

S. T. Coleridge [19ος αι.]

Oscar Wilde [19ος αι.]

O

It is only shallow people who do not judge by appearances. The mystery of the world is the visible, not the invisible.

Formalism [20ος

Jameson, Lukacs, Sontag

Μορφή < Περιεχόμενο:

Jameson, Lukacs, Sontag.

O

G. Lukacs [20ος αι.]

S. Sontag [20ος αι.]

H Susan Sontag

Μορφή //

Περιεχόμενο:

Kant, Trotsky.

I. Kant [19ος αι.] Στις

Kant)

(G.W.F. Hegel)

(Leon Trotsky)

(Susan Sontag)

ISSEY MIYAKE.

(Issey Miyake / Ingrid Sischy )

διαδικασία.” (Issey Miyake / Linda Watson) 20

Cocks

Pleats,

Miyake.” (Bonnie English) 23

Σύμφωνα

Issey

Tadao Ando,

Tadao Ando

Miyake

Miyake

Cartier

στο Παρίσι

το 1998, η οποία περιλάμβανε έργα δέκα ετών για τον Issey Miyake. Το μουσείο, που

από τον Jean Nouvel, ανοίγει

(Issey Miyake / Joan Simon)

Piece of Cloth).

Menkes

Slice-Your-Own”,

(Marty Graham)

SOU FUJIMOTO.

■ Πόλη ως κατοικία

House NA

(S. Fujimoto)33

DO-HO SUH.

“Η αντίληψη (του Suh)

για τον προσωπικό χώρο

οδηγεί αναπόφευκτα σε μια

κοινωνικό-πολιτική θέση

την ενασχόληση, η οποία μπορεί να μεταφραστεί ως την σχέση ανάμεσα στο

αντικείμενο και τη κοινωνία,

Barragan40

βρίσκομαι”. Η Dana, στο Kemper Museum of Contemporary Art, γράφει41:

“Η απομάκρυνση, ο

εμπειρίες, οι οποίες, ενώ αποσταθεροποιούν παράλληλα

στο παρελθόν του: παράδοση, εμπειρία και μνήμη. Ανεξάρτητα

(P. Barragan)39

(Do-Ho Suh/Victoria Miro)42

“αδιάφορους” χώρους,

(Do-Ho Suh)44

ALEXANDER McQUEEN.

McQueen.

McQueen

(Isabella Blow)52

Savage Beauty.

Mary Wollstonecraft58,

AVindicationoftheRightsofWom-

Talleyrand-Perigord,

“...[is it] not inconsistent and unjust to subjugate women, even though you firmly believe that you are acting in the manner best calculated to promote their happiness? Who made man the exclusive judge, if women partake with him the gift of reason?” 59

DANIEL LIBESKIND.

Military History Museum

Dresden // Studio Libeskind.

Hugh Pearman.

04.[επίλογος.]

Daniel Libeskind,

1. Abrams, M.H. (2007). A Glossary of Literary Terms. Eighth, Thomson Wards Worth

2. Bolton, A., Blanks, T., & Frankel, S. (2011). Alexander McQueen: Savage beauty. New York, NY: Yale University Press.

3. Eagleton, T. (2002). Marxism and Literary Criticism. New York: Routledge, Print.

4. English, B. (2011). Japanese fashion designers. London: Berg.

5. Forty, A. (2000). Words and buildings: A Vocabulary of Modern Architecture. New York: Thames and Hudson.

6. Freud, S. (1900). Interpretation of dreams. International Alliance Pro-Publishing, republished (2010).

7. Gadanho, P. (2016). A Japanese constellation. New York: The Museum of Modern Art.

8. Hill, J. (2006). Immaterial architecture. New York: Routledge.

9. Ito, T. & Worrall, J. (2009). Sou Fujimoto. Barcelona: Gili.

10. Kawamura, Y. (2004). The Japanese Revolution in Paris Fashion. Oxford: Berg.

11. Kho, E. E. (2006). Korean Border-Crossing Artists in the New York Artworld: An Examination of the Artistic, Personal and Social Identities of Do-Ho Suh, Kimsooja, and Ik-Joong Kang. Tallahassee: Florida State University

12. Knox, K. (2010). Alexander McQueen, Genius of a generation. London: A & C Black Publishers.

13. Libeskind, D. (2004). Breaking Ground. Adventures in Life and Architecture. New York: Riverhead Books.

14. Madsen, A. (1991). Chanel: A woman of her own. New York: H. Holt.

15. Mishra, R. K. (2011). A study of form and content. International Journal of English and Literature, 2(7), 157-160.

16. Murfin, R., Supriya M.R. (1998). The Bedford Glossary of Critical and Literary Terms. Boston, New York: Bedford Books.

17. Nayar, P.K. (2008). Postcolonial Literature: An Introduction. Delhi:Pearson Longman.

18. Sontag, S. (1966). Against interpretation and other essays. 1st ed. New York: Picador.

19. Tozer, L. (2017) The Japanese House, Architectural Research Quarterly, Cambridge University Press, 21(3).

20. Wellek, R. (1963). Concept of Criticism. New Haven: Yale University Press.

21. Wellek, R. (1982). The Attacks on Literature. Sussex: The Harvester Press.

22. William, K.W. Jr., Brooks, C. (1957) Literary Criticism: A Short History. New Delhi, Calcutta: Oxford and IBH Publishing Co. Pvt. Ltd.

23. Wolf, T. (2016), Women’s Place in Society during the Romantic Era, Wake Review Literary Magazine & Club, Wake Technical Community College: North Carolina

0.0 [εισαγωγή]

σελ. 06-07 |

• Alexander McQueen Ready to Wear A/W 1998. Paul Vicente / Getty Images. gettyimages.com

• Military History Museum Dresden model by Studio Libeskind. ArchDaily. archdaily.com

σελ. 08 |

• ‘do ho suh’s immersive fabric passages cross cultural boundaries at victoria miro gallery’. Thierry Bal. designboom. designboom.com

σελ. 09 |

• The runway finale of his spring/summer 1999 women’s collection. Yasuagi Yoshinaga. ‘The Cult of Designer Issey Miyake’. WSJ Magazine. Wsj.com

• ‘House NA / Sou Fujimoto’. Iwan Baan. ArchDaily. archdaily.com

0.1 [η

σελ. 12 |

• La belle dame sans merci, by John William Waterhouse. 1893. ‘La belle dame sans merci. Wikipedia’. Wikipedia.org

σελ. 13 |

• Emily Dickinson Illustration by Johanna Goodman. ‘Emily Dickinson was Fiercer Than You Think’. Smithsonian Magazine. Smithsonianmag.com

• As I Lay Dying by William Faulkner Art Print. Isabel Chun. Society6. Society6.com

σελ. 14-15 |

• Coleridge at age 42, portrait by Washington Allston. Samuel Taylor Coleridge. Wikipedia. Wikipedia.org

• Jackson Pollock. One: Number 31, 1950. 1950. MoMA. moma.org

• Oscar Wilde, three-quarter length portrait, facing front, seated, leaning forward, left elbow resting on knee, hand to chin, holding walking stick in right hand, wearing coat. Portrait by Napoleon Sarony. Oscar Wilde. Wikipedia. wikipedia.org

σελ. 16-17 |

• Frederic Jameson by Luca del Baldo. Verso. Versobooks.com

• Susan Sontag. 2014.

• György Lukács. Alberto Burgos. 2015. ‘Il testamento filosofico di Lukács’. Costanzo Preve. Sito comunista. sitocomunista.it

σελ. 18 |

• Immanuel Kant. Wikipedia. Wikipedia.org

σελ. 19 |

• Trotsky by Diego Rivera. Volume 6, ‘No.2 Letter from Leon Trotsky to André Breton. Reading Partisan Review: 1930s. Readingpartisanreview1930s.com

σελ. 20-21 |

• Poker Night (from a Streetcar Named Desire). 1948. Thomas Hart Benton. Whitney Museum of American Art. whitney.org

• Streetcar. circa 1951: Marlon Brando and Vivien Leigh (1913 - 1967) in a violent and emotional scene in ‘A Streetcar Named Desire’, adapted from the play by Tennessee Williams and directed by Elia Kazan. Photo by Hulton Archive/ Getty Images. Gettyimages.com

0.2

σελ. 24-25 |

• Issey Miyake. ‘More Than Clothing: The Brilliant, Innovative Mind of Issey Miyake’. GRAILED. Grailed.com

• ISSEY MIYAKE, Billowing Pleats, campaign ad for his Spring/Summer 1985-collection. Irving Penn. Scandinavian Collectors. scandinaviancollectors.com

σελ. 26 |

• Issey Miyake. Oniyoryu Collection Spring/Summer. 1975. ‘Issey Miyake - experimental Japanese fashion designer’. Vintage Blog. Blue17 UK. blue17.co.uk

σελ. 27 |

• Scarf raincoat. Pleats Please Issey Miyake. Farfetch. farfetch.com

σελ. 28-29 |

• Dancers from the Frankfurt Ballet in Pleats designed by Issey Miyake, 1991. Scan from Issey Miyake: Making Things. Immortaladonis.com

• 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT at Akasaka Tokyo Japan, designed by Tadao Ando + Nikken Sekkei in 2007. Wikipedia. Wikipedia.org

• Dress designed by Issey Miyake and Yasumasa Morimura. Museum of Ap-

plied Arts and Sciences. maas.museum

σελ. 30 |

• Araki on Issey Miyake’s Pleats Please. letter from tokyo. Kay Itoi. Artnet. Artnet.com

σελ. 31 |

• Pleats Please collection collage.

σελ. 32-33 |

• Issey Miyake. Fujiwara Dai. A-POC Queen Textile.1997. MoMA. moma.org

• Ibid.

σελ. 33-34 |

• The runway finale of Issey Miyake’s spring/summer 1999 women’s collection. Yasuagi Yoshinaga. ‘The Cult of Designer Issey Miyake’. Tara Lamont-Djite. WSJ. MAGAZINE. wsj.com

• A-POC illustration. Marcus Tomlinson. AnOther Magazine. origin.anothermag.com

σελ. 36 |

• Portrait of Sou Fujimoto. snap/Nowness.com. ‘Sou Fujimoto’s cloud-like Serpentine Pavilion: What makes it special?’. Public Delivery. publicdelivery.org

σελ. 37 |

Bookchair. Sou Fujimoto for Alias. ArchiPanic architecture & design magazine. Archipanic.com

Serpentine Gallery Pavilion 2013. Sou Fujimoto. 2018. Paddle8. paddle8.com

σελ. 38-39 |

• L’arbe blanc (the white tree). RSI-studio. Sou Fujimoto architects + NL*A + OXO architects. ‘Between nature and architecture: sou fujimoto discusses his approach to design’. Designboom. designboom.com

• House NA. Iwan Baan. House NA | Sou Fujimoto Architects. Archello. archello.com

σελ. 40 |

• House NA. Iwan Baan. House NA | Sou Fujimoto Architects. Archello. archello.com

• A model of the House NA designed by Sou Fujimoto architects is on display at the exhibition at the MOT. Sou Fujimoto architects. DETAIL, Magazine of Architecture. + Construction Details. detail-online.com

σελ. 41 |

• Do-Ho Suh. Chicago Architecture Biennial. chicagoarchitecturebiennial.org

σελ. 42 |

• Photo by Antoine van Kaam. Artist Creates Life-Size Textile Replicas of the Homes He’s Lived in Around the World. Jessica Stewart. My Modern Met. mymodernmet.com

σελ. 43-44 |

• Do-Ho Suh. Lifesize Sewn Fabric Sculptures by Do Ho Suh. Ariane Fairlie. Scene360. scene360.com

σελ. 45 |

• Hub, 310 Union Wharf, 23 Wenlock Road, London N1 7ST, UK. 2015. Do Ho Suh. Victoria Miro. victoria-miro.com

• Hub, Unit G5, Union Wharf, 23 Wenlock Road, London, N1 7SB, UK. 2015. Do Ho Suh. Victoria Miro. victoria-miro.com

σελ. 46 |

• Main Entrance, 348 West 22nd Street, New York, NY 10011, USA. 2016. Do Ho Suh. Victoria Miro. victoria-miro.com

• Hub, Ground Floor, Union Wharf, 23 Wenlock Road, London N1 7SB. 2016. Do Ho Suh. Victoria Miro. victoria-miro.com 0.2

σελ. 49-50 |

• Alexander McQueen portrait. Alexander McQueen, and the 5 definitive times he broke fashion’s mould. Bianca Husodo. Lifestyle Asia. lifestyleasia.com

σελ. 51 |

• A look from Alexander McQueen’s spring/summer 2001 collection. Reuters. ‘Sarah Burton: ‘Lee changed the way women dress’. Tamsin Blanchard. 2015. The Telegraph. telegraph.co.uk

σελ. 52 |

• Alexander McQueen Fall 2009. Francois Nars. ‘Watch the Birdie’. Nancy McDonnell. W Magazine. wmagazine.com

σελ. 53 |

• A gilded feather coat featured in the collection. Solve Sundsbo/Art + Com-

merce. ‘Alexander McQueen – fashion hooligan, savage beauty’. Luxury Wedding Blog UK. 5starweddingdirectory.com

σελ. 54 |

• Exhibits from the “Savage Beauty” exhibition. Wesley Chau. ‘Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty’. Wikipedia. wikipedia.org

σελ. 56 |

• Selected objects from the exhibition. Alexander McQueen. Savage Beauty. 2011. The Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art. metmuseum.org

σελ. 57 |

• Daniel Libeskind. Jonno Rattman. Daniel Libeskind’s Secret Museum of the Kurds. Elizabeth Greenspan. Bloomberg. bloomberg.com

σελ. 58 |

• Memory Void. The Jewish Museum Berlin, designed by Daniel Libeskind. 2010. Archphotographr. Flickr. flickr.com

σελ. 59 |

• The Jewish Museum Berlin, designed by Daniel Libeskind. 2013. Maciek Lulko. Flickr. flickr.com

σελ. 60 |

• Hulton + Crow Photography. Military History Museum. Studio Libeskind. libeskind.com

σελ. 61 |

• Hulton + Crow Photography. Military History Museum. Studio Libeskind. libeskind.com

0.3 [επίλογος.]

σελ. 64-65 |

• Photo by Ann Ray. ‘ann ray shares her massive archive of alexander mcqueen photos’. Sarah Moroz. 2018. i-D Vice. i-d.vice.com

αναφορές.

1. Abrams M.H. (2007). A Glossary of Literary Terms. 18th Ed. Indian Reprint, Thomson Wards Worth, p.107

2. Τα

3. Keats, J. (1884). The Poetical Works of John Keats. Boston: DeWolfe, Fiske & Co, 240-242.

4. Keats, J. (1884). The Poetical Works of John Keats. Boston: DeWolfe, Fiske & Co, 240-242.

5. Bhatnagar, M. K. (2000). Twentieth Century Literature in English. New Delhi: Atlantic Publishers & Distributors. p. 128.

6. Η

7. Wimsatt, W. K. Jr. & Brooks C. (1957), Literary Criticism: A Short History. New York: Alfred A. Knopf. P. 957

8. Jameson, F. (1971). Marxism and from. Princeton N.J.: Princeton university press.p. 329

9. Murfin R. & Supriya M.R. (1998). The Bedford Glossary of Critical and Literary Terms. Boston, New York: Bedford Books, p. 204.

10. Sontag, S. (1966). Ibid. από το Part I, Against Interpretation (2)

11. βλ. αγγ. Philistinism.

Webster, N. and McKechnie, J. (1983). Webster’s new twentieth century dictionary of the English language, unabridged. New York: Prentice Hall. και Philistinism, wikipedia.org

12. Sontag, S. (1966). Ibid. από το Part I, Against Interpretation (2)

13. Kant, I., & Meiklejohn, J. M. D. (1781). The Critique of Pure Reason. Auckland: Floating Press. First edition. p. 52

14. Hegel, G. W. F. (1886). The Introduction to Hegel’s Philosophy of Fine Art, trans. Bernard Bosanquet. London: Kegan Paul, Trench & Co.

15. Eagleton, T. (2002). Marxism and Literary Criticism. New York: Routledge. p. 21-22

16. Trotsky, L. (2005). Literature and revolution. Chicago: Haymarket Books. p.418.

17.

Sontag, S. (1966). Ibid. (8)

18. Miyake, I. (2009), ‘A Flash of Memory’, The New York Times, New York, July

19. Sischy, I. (2001). ‘Issey Miyake: Catching Up with the Man Who Pushes the Envelope of Fashion’, interview. Interview Magazine . NY: Brandt Publications, November.

20. Watson, L. (2004). ‘Geoffrey Beene, Godfather of minimalism in modern American fashion design’. The Independent, 30 September.

21. Kawamura, Y. (2004). ‘The Japanese Revolution in Paris Fashion’. Oxford: Berg. p. 130

22. Cocks, J. (1986). ‘A Change of Clothes: Designer Issey Miyake shapes new forms into fashion for tomorrow’. Time Magazine. January 27. p. 46–52

23. English, B. (2011), ‘Japanese Fashion Designers’, London: Berg, p. 12

24. Quinn, B. (2002). ‘Techno Fashion’ . Oxford and New York: Berg. p. 150

25. Muschamp, H. (1999), ‘Easy to Pack, Harder to Understand’, The New York Times, New York

26. Simon, J. (1999), ‘Miyake Modern’, Art in America, Vol. 87 Issue 2, p78

27. Lee, S. (2005), ‘Fashioning the Future: Tomorrow’s Wardrobe’, Thames and Hudson ltd.: London, p.30

28. Graham, M. (2007). Issey Miyake’s Populist Fashion. interview. WIRED Magazine. March

29. To kamidana,

30. Fujimoto, S. (2013). “In Conversation: Sou Fujimoto with Julia Peyton-Jones and Hans Ulrich Obrist” in Sou Fujimoto: Serpentine Pavilion 2013. ed. Sophie O’Brien. London: Walther König. P. 27

31. Meschede, F. (2012). “Reflections on Architecture, Space and Their Metaphors in the Work of Sou Fujimoto”. in Sou Fujimoto, Futurospective Architecture. Bielefeld: Kunsthalle Bielefeld/Köln:Walther König. P. 351

32. Zednickova, Z. (2018). Between nature and architecture. Interview with Sou Fujimoto. Designboom Magazine. www.designboom.com June.

33. ArchDaily. (2012). House NA / Sou Fujimoto Architects. www.archdaily.com April.

34. Murphy, D. (2012). House NA by Sou Fujimoto. Icon Magazine. www.iconeye.com. August.

35. Kho, E. E. (2006). Korean Border-Crossing Artists in the New York Artworld: An Examination of the Artistic, Personal and Social Identities of Do-Ho Suh, Kimsooja, and Ik-Joong Kang. Tallahassee: Florida State University. P. 96

36. Ibid. 97

37. Meyer, J. (1968). The social critique of minimalism. In Minimalism: Art and polemics in the sixties. New Haven and London: Yale University Press. p. 265270

38. Suh, D.H. (2002). Sydney Biennale. Museum of Contemporary Art Australia (MCA)

39. Barragan, P. (2004). I am the space where I am. Trans. Kerslake, L. Exhibition Catalog Text.Lehmann Maupin. www.lehmannmaupin.com.

40. Ibid.

41. Dana, S. (2002). Kemper museum of Contemporary Art. catalogue essays. http:www.kemperart.org.

42. Victoria Miro (2017). Do Ho Suh: Passage/s, Victoria Miro Gallery Exhibition, www.victoria-miro.com.

43. Ibid.

44. Suh, D.H. (2017). Ibid.

45. Voyeuristic,

46. Props,

47. Enfant terrible,

49. Taylor-Wood, S. (2004). Meeting the Queen was like falling in love. Interview with Alexander McQueen & Joyce McQueen. The Guardian.

50. Frankel, S. (2007). The Real McQueen. Harper’s Bazaar. www.harpersbazaar. com. April.

51. B olton, A., Blanks, T., & Frankel, S. (2011). Alexander McQueen: Savage beauty. New York, NY: Yale University Press. p. 12

52. Ibid

53. Ibid

54. Big Magazine, Alexander McQueen, interview, autumn/winter 2007

55. Risley, E.K. (2014), Dark Glamour and desire: An exploratory look at psychoanalysis and the work of Alexander McQueen, Master’s Research Project, Ontario: Ryerson University - Program of Fashion, 53

56.

58. Mary Wollstonecraft (1759-1797),

59. Wollstonecraft, M. (1792), A Vindication of the Rights of Woman:with strictures on political and moral subjects, Dedicatory Letter, Boston, ix

60. Z ahm, O. (2007), Alexander McQueen, interview, Purple Magazine, Purple Diary, purple.fr

61. Stoppard, L. (2015), Interview: Trino Verkade on Lee McQueen, SHOWstudio, showstudio.com

62. Drapers Magazine,Lee Alexander McQueen, issue 20 February 2010

63. Libeskind, D. (2004). Breaking Ground. Adventures in Life and Architecture. New York: Riverhead Books. 3

64. Libeskind, D. (2004).Ibid.

65. Libeskind, D. (2004).Ibid. 6

66. Libeskind, D. (2004).Ibid. 12,13

67. Pearman, H. (2012).Military History Museum. Piercing a TRoubled Past. Architectural Record, www.architecturalrecord.com

68. TEDxDUBLIN (2012), Architecture is a Language: Daniel Libeskind

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