"Got Rum?" March 2023

Got Rum? M A R C H 2023

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f r o m t h e g ra s s t o yo u r g l a s s , s i n c e 20 01!

COOKING WITH RUM - Angel’s Share - CIGAR & Rum MUSE OF MIXOLOGY - RUM HISTORIAN UNTIL THE BIT TER END - RUM IN THE NEWS THE IMBIBER’S ALMANAC - THE RUM UNIVERSITY® HAWAIIAN RUM TRAVELS PART I

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28 Got Rum R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 2

Contents

MARCH 2023 5 From The Editor 6-9 T h e A n g e l’ s S h a r e - R u m R e v i e w s 10-13 C OO K ING WI T H RUM 14-19 T HE IM B I B ER ’ S A LM A N A C 20-23 MUSE O F MI X OLOG Y 24-25 T HE RUM UNIVERSI T Y ® LI B R A R Y 28-31 T h e RUM HIS T ORI A N 32-39 UN T IL T HE B I T T ER END 40-43 RUM IN T HE NEWS 48-57 H AWA II A N RUM T R AVELS PA R T I 60-63 C IG A R a n d RUM PA IRING

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G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 23 - 3

® Got Rum? Printed in the U.S.A. A publication of Rum Runner Press, Inc. Hutto, Texas 78634 - U.S.A. Tel/Fax +1 (855) RUM-TIPS © 2023 by Rum Runner Press, Inc. All rights reserved.

March 2023 Edi tor and P ubl i sher:

l ui s@ gotrum.com

Executi ve Edi tor:

margaret@ gotrum. com

C i gar and Rum:

phi l i p@ gotrum.co m

A ngel ’s Share: paul @ gotrum.com Rum Hi stori an:

marco@ gotrum.c om

Rum i n the New s:

mi ke@ gotrum.com

C ooki ng w i th Rum:

sue@ gotrum.com

Webmaster: w eb@ gotrum.com Di rector of P hotography:

art@ gotrum.com

If you would like to submit news or press releases, please forward them to:

n e w s @g o tr u m . c o m You can download the free electronic version (low-res) of this magazine, or purchase the high resolution printed version at:

WWW. GOTRU M. CO M The printed version of “Got Rum?” is produced with FSC-certified paper, which means it is from responsibly managed forests and verified recycled sources.

F RON T C OVER : Rel easi ng The C ane Sp ir it INSIDE S P RE A D : Medi tati ve C ontempl at ion

F ROM T HE EDI T OR

March of the Sugarcane For us in the Northern hemisphere, March represents a turning point weather-wise: winter ’s chill moves to the rear-view mirror as Spring weather starts to appear on the horizon.

The arrival of warmer weather, however, also signals the emergence of weeds around our sugarcane stalks, ready to compete for nutrients and space with our sweet crops!

Chemical, mechanical and/or physical approaches to weed control are actively being applied throughout cane fields in our part of the world: it is important to reduce plant competition so that the sugarcane’s yield at harvest time is as bountiful as possible.

If you are a long-time reader of this magazine, then you probably are familiar with my predilection for metaphors and the parallels I like to draw between agriculture and our everyday life.

Weed prevention and control in the fields is akin to proper organization and planning around the office or at home: remove existing clutter, prevent future clutter accumulation, and know where your c rucial belongings are located, so that you can quickly retrieve them during an emergency.

Speaking of emergencies, here in Central Texas, the winter ice storms are becoming the yearly norm, forcing residents to be better prepared to face blackouts for days, with outdoor temperatures well below the freezing point. Thankfully, sugarcane scientists have been developing hardier strains for many years, and more coldresistant varietals are now available for cultivation.

While these cold-hardy varietals were originally intended for extending the sugarcane growing zones farther North, they are now an excellent option for

maintaining the existing production areas subject to the colder winter conditions.

Returning to our metaphor, how is your “garden” (home, office)? Is it well organized and ready for all your projects and tasks to flourish? Or is it covered in weeds, insects and remnants from previously completed tasks? Are you prepared to survive the changing climate conditions and the upcoming tasks?

I invite you to spend a few minutes each day nourishing your soul and maintaining your workspace, so that you can better enjoy the warm weather when it arrives.

Cheers!

Luis Ayala, Editor and Publisher http://www.linkedin.com/in/rumconsultant Do you want to learn more about rum but don’t want to wait until the next issue of “Got Rum?”? Then join the “Rum Lovers Unite!” group on LinkedIn for updates, previews, Q&A and exclusive material.

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 23 - 5

T HE A NGEL’ S SH A RE

by Paul S e nf t

Copalli White Organic Rum

M y nam e i s Paul S enf t - Rum Rev i ewer, Tast ing h o st , J udg e and Wr iter. M y ex p l o r at i o n of Rums b e gan by l ear ning to c r af t T ik i c o c k t ails fo r f r i ends. I qui c k ly l ear ne d t hat n ot all r ums are c reate d e qually and t hat t he uni quene s s of t he spir it c an b e as var i e d as t he l o c al e s t hey are f r o m. T hi s inspire d m e to t r ave l w it h my w i fe ar ound t he C ar ibb ean, C ent r al A m er i c a, and U nite d S t ate s v i sit ing di st ill er i e s and l ear ning ab out h ow eac h o ne c reate s t heir r ums. I have als o had t he p l easure of l ear ning f r o m bar tender s, b r and ambas s ado r s, and ot her ent husiast s f r o m ar ound t he wo r l d; eac h o ne p r ov i ding t heir ow n uni que p o int of v i ew, adding an ot her c hapter to t he m o der n sto r y of r um.

T he de sire to share t hi s info r mat i o n l e d m e to c reate w w w. Ru m Jo u r n ey.c o m w here I share my ex p er i enc e s and rev i ews in t he h o p e s t hat I woul d inspire ot her s in t heir ow n ex p l o r at i o ns.

It i s my w i sh in t he pag e s of “ G ot Rum? ” to b e your h o st and p r ov i de you w it h my imp re s si o ns of r ums availab l e in t he wo r l d mar ket . H o p ef ully my t ast ing n ote s w ill inspire you to t r y t he r ums and make your ow n o pini o ns. T he wo r l d i s f ull of g o o d r ums and t he j our ney i s al ways b e st ex p er i enc e d w it h ot her s.

Che er s!

Got R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 6

T h e C o p a l Tr e e di st i ll e r y i s i n t h e s o ut h e r n r ai nf o r e st of B e lize, a n d us e s n o n - GMO, h e i r l o o m su g a r c a n e g r ow n at t h e n e i g hb o r i n g C o p a l Tr e e Fa r m f o r t h e i r r um li n e. W i t hi n t wo h o ur s of h a r ve st i n g t h e c a n e, i t i s p r e s s e d to e nsur e t h e f r e s hn e s s of t h e su g a r c a n e j ui c e. To p r o du c e t h e i r w hi te r um, t h e c o m p a ny fe r m e nt s t h e j ui c e us i n g ye ast a n d r ai nwate r h a r ve ste d f r o m a r o un d t h e p r o p e r t y. A f te r fe r m e nt at i o n, t h ey di st i ll t h e li qui d i n c o lum n a n d p ot st i ll s to c r e ate t h e c o m p o n e nt s of t h e i r f i n a l b l e n d. T hi s b l e n d i s r e ste d f o r s i x m o nt h s i n st ai n l e s s ste e l c o nt ai n e r s b ef o r e b e i n g b l e n d e d to 42% A BV a n d b ot t l e d o n - s i te.

D u e to t h e di st i ll e r y ’s uni qu e l o c at i o n, t h ey st r i ve to b e a n e nv i r o nm e nt a lly ze r o i m p ac t c o m p a ny, us i n g t h e i r dr i e d c a n e ba g as s e to f u e l t h e i r di st i ll e r y ’s b o i l e r s a n d c o i li n g syste m s. T h ey t h e n us e t h e as h to fe r t i lize t h e i r su g a r c a n e f i e l ds. A ny wastewate r g e n e r ate d by t h e di st i ll e r y i s f i lte r e d a n d us e d to wate r t h e p l a nt s a n d c r o p s a r o un d t h e p r o p e r t y.

Appearance T h e 70 0 m l b ot t l e us e d f o r t h e i r e nt i r e li n e i s a t a ll b ot t l e w i t h a s h o r t n e c k a n d a t hi c k bas e. T h e b ot t l e i s s e a l e d w i t h a c l e a r s e c ur i t y w r a p a n d h as a l o n g to p l a b e l t h at c ove r s t h e wo o d e n c a p, h o l ds a p l ast i c c o r k , a n d g o e s d ow n t wo s i d e s of t h e n e c k . T h e f r o nt l a b e l c o nt ai ns bas i c i nf o r m at i o n, w h e r e as t h e bac k l a b e l c o nt ai ns i nf o r m at i o n a b o ut t h e c o m p a ny a n d t h e p r o du c t . T h e li qui d i s c r yst a l c l e a r i n t h e b ot t l e a n d g l as s. S w i r li n g i t p r o du c e d a t hi n ba n d t h at b e ad e d up s l ow ly a n d r e l e as e d a s i n g l e r o un d of l e g s b ef o r e eva p o r at i n g, l e av i n g b e hi n d a r i n g of r e s i du e.

Nose T h e a r o m a of t h e r um b e g i ns w i t h t h e s m e ll of f r e s h ly c ut su g a r c a n e, f o ll owe d by a st r o n g hi t of l e m o n - o r a n g e c i t r us n ote s a n d g r i ll e d p i n e a p p l e. T h e f r ui t e ste r s a r e ba l a n c e d by a n i nt r i g ui n g a r r ay of m i n e r a l a n d e a r t hy n ote s t h at r e m i n d m e of s o m e ot h e r R hum Ag r i c o l e s a n d C ac h aç as I h ave s a m p l e d ove r t h e ye a r s. T h e a l c o h o l i s a l ways p r e s e nt , b ut n ot ove r p owe r i n g, au g m e nt i n g i nste ad of sup p r e s s i n g t h e n ote s i n t h e p r of i l e.

Pa l a t e T h e p a l ate i s ve r y s i m i l a r to t h e a r o m a, t h e c i t r us n ote s p ave t h e way as t h e a l c o h o l w r a p s t h e to n g u e a n d c o n di t i o ns t h e m o ut h w i t h a li g ht va ni ll a n ote. T h e c o o ke d p i n e a p p l e i s p r e s e nt , w i t h t h e ad di t i o n of r i p e ba n a n a, b r e ad f r ui t , a n d p a p aya t h at c ove r t h e m i dp a l ate. T h e c a n e a n d e a r t hy m i n e r a l n ote s f o r m t h e bas e li n e a n d t r a ns i t i o n w i t h t h e ot h e r f l avo r s i nto a l o n g, dr y f i ni s h.

I h ad h e a r d a b o ut t h e C o p a lli r um li n e f o r a few ye a r s a n d was h a p py to f i n a lly ac qui r e a b ot t l e to r ev i ew. I adm i t I was c ur i o us a b o ut t h e p r o du c t af te r h e a r i n g s o mu c h a b o ut i t . I di d n ot h ave a ny ex p e c t at i o ns c o n c e r ni n g t h e f l avo r p r of i l e b ut was p l e as a nt ly sur p r i s e d at t h e f r ui t y c o m p l ex i t y ba l a n c e d by t h e m i n e r a l n ote s. I t r i e d t h e r um i n a c o up l e of c o c k t ai l s, a n d t h e f l avo r s of t h e s p i r i t h e l d up ni c e ly. Fai r ly p r i c e d, I f o un d t hi s to b e a qu a li t y r um t h at c a n b e e as i ly e nj oye d n e at , w i t h a n i c e c ub e o r m i xe d i n a D aqui r i, p un c h, o r li g ht f r ui t- bas e d c o c k t ai l. I l o o k f o r wa r d to ex p l o r i n g t h e ot h e r t wo p r o du c t s i n t h e i r li n e, as t hi s o n e s et s a hi g h ba r f o r t h e m. In t h e U ni te d S t ate s, t h e C o p a lli r um li n e i s c ur r e nt ly avai l a b l e i n C a li f o r ni a, Fl o r i da, a n d N ew Yo r k , as we ll as at c e r t ai n o n li n e r et ai l e r s.

w w w.c opallir um.c om

Rev i ew

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 23 - 7

T HE A NGEL’ S SH A RE

by Paul S e nf t

Ron del Barrilito Three Stars Ro n d e l B a r r i li to was e st a b li s h e d i n 18 8 0

by Pe dr o Fe r n a n d ez at t h e H ac i e n da S a nt a A n a i n B aya m o n, Pu e r to R i c o. T h e c o m p a ny l ays c l ai m to b e i n g t h e o l d e st r um p r o du c e d i n Pu e r to R i c o a n d st ate s t h at t h ey h ave c o nt i nu e d to us e t h e s a m e m et h o ds to c r e ate t h e i r p r o du c t s i n c e i t was f o un d e d. T h e T h r e e S t a r S up e r i o r Es p e c i a l i s a b l e n d of r um s a g e d b et we e n s i x a n d te n ye a r s i n w hi te o ak ba r r e l s t h at we r e us e d f o r a g i n g O l o r o s o S h e r r y i n J e r ez, S p ai n. A s m a ll p o r t i o n of t h e r um i s i nf us e d w i t h dr i e d f r ui t s a n d s p i c e s to h e lp g i ve t h e s p i r i t i t s s i g n at ur e f l avo r a n d a r o m a p r i o r to a g i n g. A f te r t h e r um m at ur e s to t h e b l e n d e r ’s s p e c i f i c at i o ns, i t i s b l e n d e d to 4 3% A BV. T h e c o m p a ny c l ai m s i t us e s n o a r t i f i c i a l f l avo r s o r c o l o r i n g w i t h t h e i r p r o du c t , a n d t h e wate r us e d f o r t h e b l e n di n g of t h e r um c o m e s f r o m r ai nwate r c o ll e c te d at t h e h ac i e n da.

Appearance T h e r um i s s o l d i n a w hi te, c y li n dr i c a l t ub e w i t h b l ac k a n d g o l d s c r i pt . T h e i nf o r m at i o n o n t h e t ub e a n d t h e l a b e l s of t h e b ot t l e a r e t h e s a m e a n d di s c l o s e mu c h of t h e s a m e i nf o r m at i o n s h a r e d i n t h e i nt r o du c t i o n. T h e sy nt h et i c c o r k i s s e c ur e d to t h e b ot t l e by a c l e a r s e c ur i t y w r a p o n to p of t h e c o r k c a p, a n d t h e l a b e l r e ads “e st . 18 8 0.”

T h e li qui d i n t h e b ot t l e h ad a da r k r e d di s h a m b e r c o l o r t h at r e m i n d e d m e m o r e of a s h e r r y t h a n a r um. T h e r um li g hte ns c o ns i d e r a b ly w h e n p o ur e d i nto t h e g l as s.

A f te r sw i r li n g i t , a t hi c k r i n g f o r m e d, a n d as i t ex p a n d e d, i t dr o p p e d s eve r a l r o un ds of l e g s d ow n t h e s i d e of t h e g l as s. A f te r a few m i nute s, i t eva p o r ate d, l e av i n g b e hi n d t hi c k b e ads a n d r e s i du e i n i t s wake.

Nose T h e a r o m a of t h e r um l e ads w i t h a li g ht et h a n o l n ote t h at r eve a l s n ote s of va ni ll a, r ai s i ns, r o c k f r ui t , c o o ke d ba n a n as, a ll s p i c e, a n d to aste d o ak .

Got R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 8

Pa l a t e T h e f i r st s i p of t h e r um o p e ns w i t h n ote s of c a r a m e lize d va ni ll a, ba n a n a, c i nn a m o n, a n d a ll s p i c e. M i dp a l ate: a n ast r i n g e nt o ak n ote d o m i n ate s b r i ef ly as i t f ad e s, a n d t h e r ai s i n a n d r o c k f r ui t f r o m t h e a r o m a c o m e i n a l o n g w i t h n ote s of g r a p hi te, h e r ba l te a, wa lnut s, a n d dr i e d to bac c o l e af. A s t h e r um b e g i ns to f ad e, t h e ast r i n g e n c y a n d o ak t a nni ns r et ur n, l e adi n g to a l o n g, dr y f i ni s h.

Rev i ew O ve r t h e ye a r s, t h e i nf o r m at i o n c o n c e r n i n g t h e s o ur c e of Ro n d e l B a r r i li to’s r um h as c h a n g e d, b ut t h e o n e t hi n g t h at r e m ai ns c o ns i ste nt i s t h at i t i s a l ways s o ur c e d f r o m a Pu e r to R i c o bas e d di st i ll e r y. T h e r um i t s e l f i s a n i nte r e st i n g p r o du c t i n t h e s e n s e t h at t h e r e a r e qui te a few f l avo r s g o i n g o n, t h e h e av i n e s s of t h e s h e r r y i nf lu e n c e i s un d e ni a b l e, a l o n g w i t h t h e st r e n g t h of t h e f r ui t f l avo r s. T h e j u x t a p o s i t i o n of swe et f r ui t a n d t h e s p i c e n ote s a n d o ak t a nni ns was a b i t ex t r e m e at c e r t ai n p o i nt s dur i n g t h e eva lu at i o n p r o c e s s, w hi c h l e d m e to un d e r st a n d w hy s o m e f o lks a r e hu g e f a ns of t h e p r o du c t s a n d ot h e r s a r e n ot . B e c aus e of t h e us e of m at ur at i o n of f r ui t s a n d s p i c e s to h e lp c r e ate t h e f l avo r p r of i l e, m a ny c o ns i d e r t hi s a s p i c e d r um p r o du c t . Fo r m e, t h e ast r i n g e n c y was a b i t of f - p ut t i n g, b ut I e nj oye d t h e ba l a n c e a n d i nte r p l ay of t h e f l avo r s. T h e s e f l avo r s l e ad to i t b e i n g a qu a li t y i n g r e di e nt i n s o m e t r o p i c a l a n d f r ui t bas e d c l as s i c c o c k t ai l s t h at c a ll f o r a Pu e r to R i c a n o r S p a ni s h st y l e r um i n t h e r e c i p e. I h ave b e e n to l d i t p ai r s we ll w i t h c i g a r s, a n d I k n ow i t g o e s we ll w i t h Fo r tez a m i lk c h o c o l ate c a n dy. O ve r a ll, t h e r um i s a g o o d c h o i c e f o r ba r te n d e r s l o o k i n g f o r a wo r k h o r s e i n g r e di e nt as we ll as a nyo n e l o o k i n g to s i p o n a r um w i t h a n i nte r e st i n g c o m p l ex i t y.

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G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 9

COOKING WITH RUM Bringing the Spirit of the Cane Into the Hear t of the Kitchen!

by Chef Susan W hitley

Got Got Rum R um?? March March 22002233 -- 10 10

G Goott Ru Rum m?? Ma Marc rchh 22002233 -- 11 11

Spirited Spring Mix Salad I n g r e d i e n t s: •

4 oz. S p r i n g G r e e n s S a l a d B l e n d

•

1 oz. A r u g u l a

•

⅓ C. D r i e d C r a n b e r r i e s

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1/ 8 C. Pe c a n s , c h o p p e d (o r s u b s t i t u te w i t h wa l n u t s)

•

1/ 8 C. Pe p i t a s

•

1/4 C. G o a t C h e e s e, c r u m b l e d

•

¼ C. E x t r a -V i r g i n O l i ve O i l

•

1 T b s p. A p p l e C i d e r V i n e g a r

•

1/ 2 T b s p. D a r k R u m

•

1 ½ t s p. H o n ey

•

1 t s p. D i j o n M u s t a r d

•

¼ t s p. S e a S a l t

•

G r o u n d B l a c k Pe p p e r, t o t a s te

D i r e c t i o n s: 1.

I n a l a r g e b o w l a d d a l l i n g r e d i e nt s a n d m i x we l l.

2.

D i v i d e i nt o 2 s a l a d b o w l s .

Got Got Rum R um?? March March 22002233 -- 12 12

Roasted Chicken with Pear- Rum Grav y I n g r e d i e n t s: • • • • • • • • • • • • •

1 (6 p o u n d) R o a s t i n g C h i c ke n Sea Salt G r o u n d B l a c k Pe p p e r 1 l a r g e b u n c h f r e s h T hy m e 10 S p r i g s o f O r e g a n o 1 l e m o n, h a l ve d 1 head garlic, minced 1/4 S t i c k B u t te r, m e l te d 1 L a r g e Ye l l o w O n i o n, t h i c k slices 1 L a r g e Ru s s et Po t a t o, c u t in half inch slices 4 c a r r o t s c u t i nt o 2- i n c h c h u n ks 1 b u l b o f f e n n e l, c u t i nt o we d g e s O l i ve o i l

D i r e c t i o n s: 1.

2.

3.

P r e h e a t t h e ove n t o 42 5° F. R i n s e t h e c h i c ke n i n s i d e a n d o u t . R e m ove a ny exc e s s f at a n d p at t h e o u t s i d e d r y. L i b e r a l l y s a l t a n d p e p p e r t h e i n s i d e o f t h e c h i c ke n. S t u f f t h e c av i t y w i t h t h e b u n c h o f t hy m e, b o t h h a l ve s o f l e m o n, a n d a l l t h e g a r l i c . B r u s h t h e o u t s i d e o f t h e c h i c ke n w i t h t h e b u t te r a n d s p r i n k l e a g a i n w i t h s a l t a n d p e p p e r. T i e t h e l e g s t o g et h e r w i t h k i tc h e n s t r i n g a n d t u c k t h e w i n g t i p s u n d e r t h e b o d y o f t h e c h i c ke n. P l a c e t h e o n i o n s , p o t a t o e s , c a r r ot s , a n d f e n n e l i n a r o a s t i n g p a n. To s s w i t h s a l t , p e p p e r, o r e g a n o, a n d o l i ve o i l. S p r e a d ve g et a b l e s eve n i n g a r o u n d t h e b ot t o m o f t h e r o a s t i n g p a n a n d p l a c e t h e c h i c ke n o n t o p.

R o a s t t h e c h i c ke n f o r 1 1/ 2 h o u r s , o r u nt i l t h e j u i c e s r u n c l e a r w h e n yo u c u t b et we e n a l e g a n d t h i g h. Re m ove t h e c h i c ke n a n d ve g et a b l e s t o a p l at te r a n d c ove r w i t h a l u m i n u m f o i l f o r a b o u t 2 0 m i n u te s . S l i c e t h e c h i c ke n o nt o e a c h p l ate. D r i z z l e t h e Pe a r- Ru m G r av y (s e e r e c i p e) o n t o p o f t h e c h i c ke n a n d s e r ve w i t h t h e ve g et a b l e s .

I n g r e d i e n t s: • • • • • •

Pe a r- Ru m G r av y

4 T b s p. B u t te r 1/ 2 C. A l l - p u r p o s e Fl o u r 2 C. C h i c ke n B r o t h 3 /4 C. Pe a r J u i c e 1/4 C. D a r k R u m S e a S a l t a n d B l a c k Pe p p e r, t o t a s te

D i r e c t i o n s: 1.

M e l t t h e b u t te r i n a l a r g e s a u c e p a n ove r m e d i u m h e at . O n c e t h e f o a m s u b s i d e s , s t i r i n t h e f l o u r a n d c o o k u nt i l l i g ht b r o w n, a b o u t 2 m i n u te s . G r a d u a l l y a d d t h e c h i c ke n b r o t h a n d p e a r j u i c e.

2.

S i m m e r ove r m e d i u m h e a t u nt i l t h i c ke n e d, s t i r r i n g f r e q u e nt l y, a b o u t 10 m i n u te s .

S t i r i n t h e r u m a n d s e a s o n w i t h s a l t a n d p e p p e r. S e r ve ove r r o a s te d c h i c ke n.

G Goott Ru Rum m?? Ma Marc rchh 22002233 -- 1133

The

I m bi ber’s

Almanac A mont hly gui d e fo r t hir st y exp lo re r s loo king fo r n ew rea son s to r ai se t h eir gl a s se s!

The Imbiber’s Almanac - The Rum University ®

Got R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 14

Pre sent e d by

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 1 5

Got R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 16

T he

I m bi ber’s

Almanac

M ARCH

A re you looking for festive reasons to raise your glass this month?

H ere are a few of them!

Wr ite to us at info@gotr um.c om if we missed any!

M A R 3 I r i sh W hi skey Day M A R 3 N at ional M ull e d W in e Day M A R 5 N at ional A b sint h e Day M A R 15 E sp re s so M a r t ini Day M A R 17 St . Pat r ic k’s Day MAR 20

Bo c k B e e r Day

M A R 27 I nt e r nat ional W hi skey Day

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 1 7

Got Rum R um ? Ma March rch 2023 2023 - 1 18 8

The

I m bi ber’s

Almanac Featured C oc k t ail:

Rum Espresso Mar tini (Celebrated on March 15) Rum Es p r e s s o M a r t i ni s h ave b e e n fe at ur e d num e r o us t i m e s i n t hi s m a g a zi n e. We i nv i te yo u to r ev i ew Phi li p’s Ci g a r & Rum Pai r i n g s f o r a few exa m p l e s.

B e l ow i s a n exc e ll e nt r e c i p e f r o m C r i s D e h l av i, o ur M us e of M i xo l o g y. I t was o r i g i n a lly p ub li s h e d l ast m o nt h a n d i s a n exc e ll e nt c o c k t ai l to c e l e b r ate w i t h o n M a r c h 15t h.

B ewa r e t h o u g h, yo u m ay c r ave i t t h r o u g h o ut t h e S p r i n g a n d S um m e r !

RU M ES PR ESSO M A R TINI I n g r e d i e n t s: • • • • •

1. 5 oz. Ag e d J a m ai c a n Rum 1 oz. C of fe e Li qu e ur 1. 5 oz. Es p r e s s o T h r e e das h e s of O r a n g e B i t te r s T h r e e dr o p s S a li n e

D i r e c t i o n s: S h ake we ll w i t h i c e, a n d st r ai n i nto a C o up e (o r M a r t i ni, i f yo u d o n’ t h ave C o up e) g l as s. Z e st a n o r a n g e p e e l ove r t h e to p a n d di s c a r d. G a r ni s h w i t h t h r e e c h o c o l ate - c ove r e d e s p r e s s o b e a ns.

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 1 9

T H E M USE OF M I XOLOGY

by Cr i s D e h l av i

No and Low Proof Cocktails M a ny p e o p l e adj ust t h e i r a l c o h o l c o nsum pt i o n at t h e b e g i nni n g of a n ew ye a r ; f o r s o m e, i t i s s i m p ly a “ D r y J a nu a r y,” a n d f o r ot h e r s, t h at c o nt i nu e t h r o u g h o ut t h e ye a r. T h e c h a ll e n g i n g a n d d e p r e s s i n g s i d e ef fe c t s of 2 0 2 0 a n d t h e eve r- l o o m i n g t h r e at of C ov i d we r e to u g h f o r a l ot of f o lks, a n d i t s e e m s p e o p l e e i t h e r dr a nk MORE t h a n b ef o r e o r us e d t h e l o c kd ow n as a n o p p o r t uni t y to g et i n s h a p e. W h et h e r yo ur r e as o n i s h e a lt h - r e l ate d o r yo u s i m p ly d o n ot wa nt to dr i nk , n o - p r o of (n o n - a l c o h o li c) a n d l ow - p r o of c o c k t ai l s h ave b e c o m e a t r e n d o n c o c k t ai l m e nus, a n d I t hi nk i t ’s h e r e to st ay.

M y n a m e i s C r i s D e h l av i a n d I a m a n at i ve of A r i zo n a , b u t h ave l i ve d i n C o l u m b u s , O h i o s i n c e 2 0 0 2 . I j u st to o k o n a n exc i t i n g n ew r o l e a s t h e B r a n d Ed u c ato r f o r C o l u m b u s f o r D i a g e o b r a n d s. I r a n t h e b a r p r o g r a m at “ M ”, of t h e C a m e r o n M i tc h e l l Re st au r a nt g r o u p f r o m 2 0 0 2-2 0 2 0.

I a m c u r r e nt l y t h e V i c e Pr e s i d e nt of C o l u m b u s US BG a n d wa s o n e of t h e f o u n d i n g m e m b e r s of t h e c h a pte r.

I n 2 013 , I at te n d e d t h e r i g o r o u s B . A . R . 5 D ay S p i r i t s C e r t i f i c at i o n a n d h ave b e e n r e c o g n i ze d a s o n e of t h e to p m i xo l o g i st s i n t h e U. S . A . I a m o n e of t h e s e n i o r m a n a g e r s of t h e p r e st i g i o u s a p p r e nt i c e p r o g r a m at Ta l e s of t h e C o c k t a i l a n d wo r k a s a m e nto r to m a ny b a r te n d e r s a r o u n d O h i o.

M y c o nt r i b u t i o n to G ot Ru m? m a g a z i n e w i l l i n c l u d e eve r y t h i n g f r o m r ev i ew s of n at i o n a l c o c k t a i l eve nt s , a r t i c l e s o n m i xo l o g y, g a r n i s h t r e n d s , r e c i p e s a n d te c h n i q u e s , to i nte r v i ew s w i t h s o m e of t h e l e a di n g b a r te n d e r s i n t h e i n d u s t r y.

Got Rum R um ? Ma March rch 2023 2 0 2 3 - 220 0

N o n - a l c o h o li c dr i nks a r e hi sto r i c a lly B A D. S o bad t h at we us e d to c a ll t h e m “ m o c k t ai l s” unt i l s o m e o n e a l o n g t h e way r e a lize d t h at was a d e r o g ato r y te r m f o r s o m et hi n g yo u a r e g o i n g to c o nsum e.

B a r te n d e r s di dn’ t r e a lly c a r e to m ake t h e m, s o yo u wo ul d usu a lly r e c e i ve a n ove r ly swe et j ui c e c o n c o c t i o n. O ve r t h e l ast few ye a r s, t h at h as c h a n g e d, a n d ba r te n d e r s a r e g et t i n g ex t r e m e ly c r e at i ve w i t h s p i r i t- f r e e c o c k t ai l i n g r e di e nt s, f r o m t h e g l as swa r e i t i s s e r ve d i n, to t h e g a r ni s h e s t h at ad o r n t h e m.

S o, w h at i s a l ow - p r o of c o c k t ai l? I t c a n ac t u a lly m e a n s eve r a l di f fe r e nt t hi n g s.

Fi r st of a ll, l et ’s un d e r st a n d w h at “ l ow p r o of ” i s. D e p e n di n g o n w h o yo u as k , s o m e p e o p l e w i ll te ll yo u t h at a ny s p i r i t un d e r 4 0% A BV (a l c o h o l by vo lum e) i s l ow - p r o of, w h e r e as ot h e r s w i ll s ay t h at num b e r s h o ul d b e 25% A BV. Pr ev i o us ly, l ow - p r o of c o c k t ai l s we r e m ad e w i t h li qu e ur s o r ve r m o ut hs as t h e bas e s p i r i t a n d s o m et i m e s to p p e d w i t h a s p a r k li n g w i n e. A s t hi s t r e n d h as c o nt i nu e d, t h e m i xo l o g y c o m muni t y h as h e av i ly e m b r ac e d i t a n d g ot te n hi g h ly c r e at i ve.

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 2 1

Got R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 22

S y r up s, j ui c e s, h e r b s, b ot a ni c a l s, a n d c r af t s o das h ave ad d e d to t h e i nn ovat i o n, a n d l owe r- p r o of vo dkas, te qui l as, a n d ot h e r s p i r i t s. C o c k t ai l m e nus wo r l d w i d e h ave m ad e s p ac e f o r n o a n d l ow - p r o of c o c k t ai l s, a n d t h o s e t h at e nj oy t h e m d e m a n d t h at t h ey b e as p r et t y a n d d e li c i o us as t h e c l as s i c s.

S o w hy a m I w r i t i n g a b o ut t hi s i n a RUM m a g a zi n e? O n e r e as o n i s t h at I like to t a lk a b o ut t h e c ur r e nt t r e n ds a n d f ads. T h e ot h e r r e as o n i s t h at t h e r e i s a n ot h e r way to m ake a l owe r- p r o of c o c k t ai l, a n d t h at i s to s i m p ly r e du c e t h e a m o unt of s p i r i t i n t h e c o c k t ai l s. I f t h e r e c i p e c a ll s f o r 2 o un c e s of r um, yo u c a n b r i n g t h at d ow n to 1 o un c e a n d st i ll h ave a f i n e dr i nk . M ak i n g i t a “ l o n g dr i nk ” by s e r v i n g i t i n a t a ll g l as s w i t h ex t r a of t h e m i xe r i s a n ot h e r t r i c k .

O n e of my a ll - t i m e f avo r i te c o c k t ai l s i s t h e Fr e n c h 75, w hi c h i s t r adi t i o n a lly m ad e w i t h e i t h e r c o g n ac o r g i n, b ut yo u k n ow I l ove to p l ay a r o un d w i t h r e c i p e s. H e r e i s my l ow p r o of, RUM Fr e n c h 75 . Enj oy ! !

C a r i b b e a n 75 I n g r e d i e n t s: • • •

.75 oz. Li g ht Rum . 5 oz. S i m p l e S y r up . 5 oz. Le m o n J ui c e

D i r e c t i o n s: S h ake we ll w i t h i c e, a n d st r ai n i nto a c o up e o r f lute g l as s. To p w i t h s p a r k li n g w i n e a n d g a r ni s h w i t h a t w i st of l e m o n.

Pr o - t i p: I f yo u h ave f r e s h b e r r i e s, mu d dl e a few i n t h e b ot to m of yo ur c o c k t ai l s h ake r a n d d o ub l e st r ai n f o r a n ot h e r l aye r of f l avo r.

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 2 3

LI BR A RY Rev i ew s of b o o ks r e l ate d to su g a r c a n e, m i lli n g, fe r m e nt at i o n, di st i ll at i o n, a g i n g, b l e n di n g a n d ot h e r to p i c s r e l ate d to t h e p r o du c t i o n o r hi sto r y of r um. w w w. Rum U ni ve r s i t y.c o m

Got R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 24

Craft Cocktails at Home: Offbeat Techniques, Contemporary CrowdPleasers, and Classics Hacked with Science

By Kevin Liu (Pub li s h e r ’s Rev i ew) T hi nk of I t as Yo ur Ph D i n D r i nk i n g.

I n C r af t C o c k t ai l s at H o m e, yo u’ll e m ba r k up o n a o n e of - a - k i n d j o ur n ey as yo u l e a r n h ow to m ake s o m e of t h e wo r l d ’s m o st i nn ovat i ve, uni qu e, a n d d e li c i o us c o c k t ai l s.

Taste s c i e nt i st s, e n g i n e e r s, a n d t a l e nte d ba r te n d e r s w i t h d e c ad e s of ex p e r i e n c e a ll c o nt r i b ute d t h e i r ex p e r t i s e to c r e ate t hi s must- h ave g ui d e f o r n ov i c e s a n d p r ofe s s i o n a l s a like.

Eve r wo n d e r e d w h at m ake s wate r t aste g o o d? Cur i o us a b o ut w h at r e a lly h a p p e ns dur i n g t h e b a r r e l - a g i n g p r o c e s s? I nte r e ste d i n w hi c h “ m o l e c ul a r ” i n g r e di e nt s h ave t h e b e st tex t ur e?

T h e s e qu e st i o ns a n d m o r e, a nswe r e d i ns i d e. W i t h 25 0 p a g e s a n d 6 5 r e c i p e s.

About the author A f te r hi g h s c h o o l, Kev i n g ot a bac h e l o r ’s i n e l e c t r i c a l e n g i n e e r i n g a n d a m aste r ’s f r o m MIT, b ut i t was n’ t unt i l h e f i n a lly f i ni s h e d g o i n g to s c h o o l t h at h e r e a lize d h ow c o o l s c i e n c e i s. H e st a r te d w r i t i n g a b o ut f o o d a n d s c i e n c e o n li n e at S c i e n c e Fa r e.o r g i n 2 011, w h e r e hi s c ur r e nt “ r e s e a r c h” i nte r e st i s t h e s c i e n c e of c o c k t ai l s.

Pub li s h e r : Kev i n Li u; 1st e di t i o n (Fe b r u a r y 24, 2 013) L a n g u a g e: En g li s h Pa p e r bac k : 25 4 p a g e s IS B N -10: 0 61576 6 3 8 2 IS B N -13: 978 - 0 61576 6 3 8 6 I te m We i g ht : 15 . 2 o un c e s D i m e ns i o ns: 6 x 0. 5 8 x 9 i n c h e s

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 2 5

Got Got R Rum um?? Ma March rch 2023 2 0 2 3 -- 226 6

Your O n e - Stop Shop fo r Ag ed Rum s in Bulk!

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C olumn - D istilled, Pot- D istilled or Blends High C ongener (Inc luding High Ester s), Low C ongener or Blends

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Aged in A mer ic an or Frenc h Oak Bar rels

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Aged in Rye W hiskey, Bour bon, Tequila, A r magnac, Por t, Sher r y and W ine Bar rels

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Single Bar rels and Sec ond Aging / Finish

D istilled in the USA , C entral A mer ic a, South A mer ic a or in the Car ibbean O ver 15 0 M ar ks /St yles Available, plus Custom Blends Low M inimums and Fast Tur naround, Wor ldwide Shipping

w w w.RumCentral.com G Goott Ru Rum m?? Ma Marrc ch 2023 - 27

THE RUM H ISTO R I A N

by M arc o Pi er ini I was b o r n i n 19 5 4 i n a li t t l e tow n i n Tus c a ny (I t a ly) w h e r e I st i ll li ve. I n my yo ut h, I g ot a d e g r e e i n Phi l o s o p hy i n Fl o r e n c e a n d I st u di e d Po li t i c a l S c i e n c e i n M adr i d, b ut my r e a l p as s i o n h as a l ways b e e n H i sto r y a n d t h r o u g h H i sto r y I h ave a l ways t r i e d to un d e r st a n d t h e wo r l d, a n d m e n. Li fe b r o u g ht m e to wo r k i n to ur i s m, eve nt o r g a niz at i o n a n d vo c at i o n a l t r ai ni n g, t h e n, a lr e ady i n my f i f t i e s I di s c ove r e d r um a n d I fe ll i n l ove w i t h i t .

I h ave v i s i te d di st i ll e r i e s, m et r um p e o p l e, at te n d e d r um Fe st i va l s a n d j o i n e d t h e Rum Fa m i ly. I h ave st u di e d to o, b e c aus e Rum i s n ot o n ly a g r e at di st i ll ate, i t ’s a wo r l d.

Pr o du c e d i n s c o r e s of c o unt r i e s, by t h o us a n ds of c o m p a ni e s, w i t h a n ex t r a o r di n a r y va r i et y of a r o m as a n d f l avo r s, i t i s a f as c i n at i n g f i e l d of st u di e s. I b e g a n to un d e r st a n d s o m et hi n g a b o ut su g a r c a n e, fe r m e nt at i o n, di st i ll at i o n, a g e i n g a n d s o o n.

S o o n, I di s c ove r e d t h at r um h as a l s o a te r r i b l e a n d r i c h H i sto r y, m ad e of voya g e s a n d c o n qu e st s, b l o o d a n d swe at , i m p e r i a l f l e et s a n d r evo lut i o ns. I s o o n r e a lize d t h at t hi s H i sto r y d e s e r ve d to b e r e s e a r c h e d p r o p e r ly a n d I d e c i d e d to d evote mys e l f to i t w i t h a ll my p as s i o n a n d w i t h t h e h e lp of t h e bas i c s c h o l a r ly to o l s I h ad l e a r nt dur i n g my o l d uni ve r s i t y ye a r s.

I n 2 017 I p ub li s h e d t h e b o o k “A MERI CA N RUM – A S h o r t H i sto r y of Rum i n E a r ly A m e r i c a” I n 2 019 I b e g a n to r un a B l o g: w w w. t h e r um hi sto r i a n.c o m I n 2 0 2 0, w i t h my s o n C l au di o, I h ave p ub li s h e d a n ew b o o k “ FREN C H RUM – A H i sto r y 16 3 9 -19 0 2 ”.

I a m c ur r e nt ly d o i n g n ew r e s e a r c h o n t h e H i sto r y of Cuba n Rum.

Got Rum R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 28

HISTORY O F C U B A N RUM 9. I N G E N I O S A ND T HE C ON TINUOUS STILL T h e f i r st d e c ad e s of t h e 18 0 0 s we r e a p e r i o d of e n o r m o us s c i e nt i f i c a n d te c hn o l o g i c a l p r o g r e s s i n su g a r m ak i n g a n d i n di st i ll at i o n, p r o g r e s s t h at c a m e f i r st f r o m Fr a n c e.

Re g a r di n g su g a r m ak i n g, t hi s i s t h e p e r i o d w h e n b e et su g a r a r r i ve d o n t h e Eur o p e a n m a r ket s. Ac t u a lly, t h e p ote nt i a l of b e et r e g a r di n g su g a r p r o du c t i o n was a lr e ady we ll k n ow n to Eur o p e a n c h e m i st s, b ut unt i l t h e n n o b o dy h ad t ake n p a r t i c ul a r n ot i c e. N a p o l e o n was t h e f i r st to i nve st a l ot of r e s o ur c e s i n t h e d eve l o p m e nt of b e et su g a r as a n e c o n o m i c we a p o n a g ai nst hi s g r e at e n e my, G r e at B r i t ai n. D ur i n g t h e Em p i r e, a l a r g e su g a r b e et i n dust r y was o p e r at i n g i n Fr a n c e. I m m e di ate ly af te r t h e d efe at of N a p o l e o n a n d t h e r et ur n of a B o ur b o n k i n g o n t h e t h r o n e of Fr a n c e, t h e n ew i n dust r y f l o un d e r e d, b ut w i t h t h e h e lp of n ew te c hn o l o g i c a l d eve l o p m e nt s a n d of t h e S t ate, i t qui c k ly r et ur n e d to p r o s p e r i t y a n d by 18 3 5 s o m e f o ur hun dr e d f ac to r i e s we r e p r o du c i n g n e a r ly 8 0,0 0 0,0 0 0 p o un ds of b e et su g a r, m o r e o r l e s s a t hi r d of g l o ba l Fr e n c h

c o nsum pt i o n. S o o n, a ll ove r Eur o p e m a ny g ove r nm e nt s f o ll owe d t h e exa m p l e of Fr a n c e, sup p o r t i n g t h e c ult i vat i o n of su g a r b e et a n d t h e p r o du c t i o n a n d c o nsum pt i o n of b e et su g a r. Fo r t h e f i r st t i m e, Eur o p e a ns c o ul d c o nsum e su g a r i n a b un da n c e a n d at r e as o n a b l e p r i c e s, w i t h o ut t h e n e c e s s i t y of ex p e ns i ve i m p o r t c o st s f r o m di st a nt c o l o ni e s. A s e a r ly as 18 4 0 b e et su g a r sur p as s e d c a n e su g a r i n t h e Fr e n c h a n d G e r m a n m a r ket s. (S e e my a r t i c l e “ N A P OLEON , SUG A R B EE T A ND RUM ” i n t h e O c to b e r 2 019 i s su e).

T h e Fr e n c h su g a r p l a nte r s of M a r t i ni qu e a n d G u ad e l o up e r i s ke d r ui n a n d t h e Fr e n c h g ove r nm e nt sup p o r te d t h e m w i t h l a r g e l o a ns to d eve l o p n ew su g a r p l a nt at i o ns a n d by g r a nt i n g t h e m a m o n o p o ly o n t h e Fr e n c h c a n e su g a r m a r ket . T h e p r o du c t i o n i n c r e as e d, b ut c a n e su g a r c o ul d n o l o n g e r c o m p ete i n qu a li t y a n d p r i c e w i t h b e et su g a r, f o r t h e p r o du c e r s of b e et su g a r h ad t h e ad va nt a g e of l owe r c o st s, as we ll as m o r e ad va n c e d te c hn o l o g y. “ T h e s i t u at i o n b e g a n to s hi f t i n 18 41, w h e n Paul D aub r é e, a Fr e n c h i n dust r i a li st , p r o p o s e d to t h e c o l o ni st s of G u ad e l o up e a n d M a r t i ni qu e t h at t h ey f o ll ow t h e exa m p l e of t h e b e et su g a r p r o du c e r s by s e p a r at i n g f a r m wo r k f r o m i n dust r i a l wo r k . Ac c o r di n g to D aub r é e, t hi s c o ul d b e ac c o m p li s h e d by b ui l di n g tot a lly m e c h a nize d Us i nes C entr a l es (C e nt r a l Fac to r i e s) to p r o c e s s l a r g e qu a nt i t i e s of su g a r c a n e c ult i vate d s i mult a n e o us ly o n s eve r a l p l a nt at i o ns.”

(F. M oya Po ns “H is to r y o f th e C a r i b b ea n ” ) T h e f i r st ste a m - p owe r e d c e nt r a l f ac to r i e s c a p a b l e of g r i n di n g g r e at qu a nt i t i e s of su g a r c a n e f r o m te n o r t we l ve p l a nte r s, g r e at ly r e du c i n g c o st s, we r e b ui lt i n t h e Fr e n c h C a r i b b e a n b et we e n 18 4 4 a n d 18 4 8; c a n e su g a r was n ow c o m p et i t i ve w i t h b e et su g a r a g ai n.

T h e Cuba n S u g a r B a r o ns ad o pte d ve r y qui c k ly t h e n ew m e c h a nize d m a nu f ac t ur i n g p r o c e s s e s i n t h e i r l a r g e p l a nt at i o ns, c a ll e d I ng en i o s, as i n d e e d t h ey di d w i t h ot h e r m o d e r n i nn ovat i o ns su c h as ste a m, r ai l ways, etc . b ut w i t h o ut s e p a r at i n g f a r m wo r k f r o m i n dust r i a l wo r k , a n d a r o un d 18 5 0 Cuba b e c a m e o n e of t h e b i g g e st p r o du c e r s of su g a r i n t h e wo r l d. It i s i m p o r t a nt to r e m e m b e r t h at t hi s su g a r b o o m h a p p e n e d

as p a r t of a n i m p r e s s i ve e c o n o m i c a n d d e m o g r a p hi c g r ow t h (S e e t h e a r t i c l e “ SUG A R , R AC E A ND GROW T H ” i n t h e D e c e m b e r 2 0 2 2 i s su e).

Re g a r di n g a l c o h o li c di st i ll at i o n, t hi s i s t h e p e r i o d w h e n t h e C o lum n S t i ll a r r i ve d. I t hi nk i t i s us ef ul to r e ad a g ai n t h e f un da m e nt a l, a n d s o f a r unr i va l e d, R . J. Fo r b e s’ “S h o r t H is to r y o f th e A r t o f D is t i l la t i o n ”. “ Fo r h e r e t h e Fr e n c h te c hn o l o g i st s we r e sup r e m e i n t h e e a r ly ni n ete e nt h c e nt ur y, t h ey we r e t h e m e n ‘di st i ll e d o ut of o ur v i r t u e s’ w h o l e d i n t h e a r t . … t h e g e ni us of t h e Fr e n c h di st i ll e r s of t h e f i r st t wo d e c ad e s of t h e ni n ete e nt h c e nt ur y st a r te d a n ava l a n c h e of p ate nt s of n ew di st i lli n g syste m s a n d a p p a r at us … T h e p i o n e e r of t h e n ew st i ll was Edu a r d Ada m … hi s n ew di st i lli n g a p p a r at us ‘ to p r e p a r e a l c o h o l i n o n e o p e r at i o n’ f o r w hi c h h e g ot a p ate nt o n M ay 2 9 t h 18 01 …S o Ada m, S o li m a ni, B a r r e a n d B r un e r e h ad i nt r o du c e d t h e i d e a of r unni n g t h e f i r st c o n d e ns ate c o unte r- c ur r e nt to t h e va p o r s a n d t hus e nr i c hi n g i t to p r o du c e t h e d e s i r e d st r e n g t h of t h e a l c o h o l i n o n e r un. …T h e f i n a l ste p of us i n g t h e p r i n c i p l e s i nt r o du c e d by Ada m etc . to b ui l d a di st i lli n g c o lum n was t ake n by J e a n B a pt i ste C e lli e r B lum e nt h a l.” T h e a p p a r at us was d e s i g n e d f o r c o nt i nu o us o p e r at i o n a n d h e m ay b e t r uly r e g a r d e d as t h e i nve nto r of t h e m o d e r n f r ac t i o n at i n g c o lum n. C e lli e r i nt r o du c e d t h e i d e a of a c o nt i nu o us st r e a m of w i n e e nte r i n g t h e p r e h e ate r a n d a c o nt i nu o u s st r e a m of s p e nt r e s i du e l e av i n g t h e st i ll. A few ye a r s l ate r, a l s o t h e En g li s h i nve nto r s we r e dr aw n to t h e p r o b l e m a n d t h e c r ow n of t h e i r ef f o r t s was Ae n e as C of fey ’s c o nt i nu o us st i ll, p ate nte d i n 18 3 0. “ T h e C of fey st i ll was a n i m m e di ate su c c e s s. … T h ey e as i ly g ave 8 0% a l c o h o l i n o n e o p e r at i o n a n d t h e r ef o r e wo r ke d ve r y c h e a p ly as c o m p a r e d w i t h t h e c o nt i n e nt a l st i ll s.”

N ow, f o r t h e s ake of c l a r i t y, a b o ut w h at exac t ly a C o lum n S t i ll was (a n d i s) a n d h ow exac t ly i t di f fe r s f r o m t h e t r adi t i o n a l Pot S t i ll, l et ’s r e ad w h at R i c h a r d S e a l e w r ote s o m e ye a r s a g o o n hi s p e r s o n a l FB p a g e, l ate r p ub li s h e d i n o n e s i n g l e a r t i c l e - “Aeneas C o f fey, J o h n D o r e a nd F o u r s qua r e ” - o n RUM DI A RIES B LOG , Fe b r u a r y 9, 2 0 21. “ T h e di c h oto my i s n ot p ot st i ll v c o lum n st i ll b ut batc h st i ll v c o nt i nu o us st i ll. A ll

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 2 9

st i ll d e s i g ns f a ll i nto o n e of t h e l at te r t wo c ate g o r i e s. T h e ad di t i o n of f r ac t i o n at i o n o r e nh a n c e d r e c t i f i c at i o n to a batc h st i ll i s st i ll a batc h st i ll. T h e s i m p l e batc h st i ll r e li e s s o l e ly o n t h e ly n e a r m f o r r e c t i f i c at i o n.

Enh a n c i n g t hi s ef fe c t d o e s n ot c h a n g e t h e f un da m e nt a l n at ur e of t h e st i ll. … A batc h st i ll w i ll p r o du c e a c h a n g i n g o ut p ut ove r t i m e (c o ll o qui a lly t h e h e ads, t h e n h e a r t s, t h e n t ai l s) f r o m a s i n g l e c h a r g e (batc h) t h at i t s e l f c h a n g e s as i t i s di st i ll e d.

A c o nt i nu o us st i ll p r o du c e s a n un c h a n g e d o ut p ut t h at va r i e s by p o s i t i o n (n ot by t i m e) o n a n un c h a n g i n g c h a r g e t h at i s fe d c o nt i nu o us ly. H e ads, h e a r t s, t ai l s a r e dr aw n of f s i mult a n e o us ly f r o m di f fe r e nt p o s i t i o ns.

T hi s i s t h e f un da m e nt a l di st i n c t i o n b et we e n t h e t wo p r o c e s s e s w hi c h a l s o ex p l ai ns w hy t h e t wo c a n n eve r m ake t h e i d e nt i c a l s p i r i t . …E a r ly c o lum n s h a p e d st i ll s (e.g. t h e c o lum n a r Pi sto r i us st i ll) s h o ul d n ot b e c o nf us e d w i t h a c o lum n o r c o nt i nu o us st i ll, i t was a batc h st i ll a n d t h e S ava ll e o r C e lli e r B lum e nt a l st i ll s a r e n ot f i t te d w i t h “a p ot st i ll ” j ust b e c aus e t h ey h ad a p ot s h a p e d bas e / ket t l e – t h e r e we r e i n f ac t c o nt i nu o us (o r c o l o um n) st i ll s.”

I t i s i m p o r t a nt to un d e r li n e yet a g ai n t h at w h e n t h e n ew c o lum n st i ll s b e g a n to b e us e d, r um p r o du c t i o n a n d ex p o r t at i o n i n Cuba was a lr e ady hu g e. I n 18 2 0, J o s é Ag ustín G ova nte s h ad w r i t te n: “ T h e p r o hi b i t i o n to ex p o r t m o l as s e s o r t h e dut i e s i m p o s e d o n i t , h ave e nr i c h e d us w i t h st i ll s t h at p r o du c e 3 0.0 0 0 p i p as a ye a r.

T h e p r o hi b i t i o n o r t h e dut i e s i m p o s e d o n f o r e i g n r um s h ave n at ur a lize d t hi s b r a n c h of i n dust r y a n d n ot o n ly s at i s f ye d o ur n e e ds, b ut we a l s o ex p o r t r um a b r o ad a n d i n S p ai n to o.” ( Le o n a r d o Padur a “L a la r g a v i da s ec r eta d e u na fó r mu la s ec r eta ”, 19 8 8).

B ut , w h e n di d t h ey a r r i ve i n Cuba? I f o un d i n t h e S p a ni s h a r c hi ve s s o m e 18 2 6 a n d 18 27 p ate nt a p p li c at i o ns r e g a r di n g c o nt i nu o us st i ll s, as we w i ll s e e i n t h e n ex t a r t i c l e. A n d we a lr e ady k n ow t h at i n 18 32 t h e “ H a n db o o k f o r D i st i ll e r s” st ate d: “ T h e o l d o n e s a r e t h e m o st c o m m o n; t h e r e a r e s eve r a l di st i ll e r i e s t h at h ave c o nt i nu o us di st i ll at i o n.” S o, i n 18 32 at t h e l ate st , we a r e sur e t h at s o m e c o nt i nu o us st i ll s we r e a lr e ady o p e r at i n g i n Cuba.

Got R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 30

Ac c o r di n g to t h e g r e at wo r k of M a nu e l M o r e n o Fr a g i n a l s “E l I ng en i o. C o m p l e j o ec o n ó m i c o - s o c ia l c u ba n o d e l azú c a r ”, p ub li s h e d i n 1978 (i n my o p i ni o n a n e s s e nt i a l r e adi n g i f we a r e to un d e r st a n d X I X c e nt ur y ’s Cuba), a r o un d 18 4 0 s o m e g r e at di st i ll e r i e s b e g a n to b e f o un d e d i n H ava n a, M at a nz as a n d C á r d e n as.

T h ey we r e n o l o n g e r w i t hi n t h e su g a r p l a nt at i o ns as a n a n c i ll a r y ac t i v i t y, b ut t h ey we r e b ui lt i n t h e tow ns as a r e a l, i n d e p e n d e nt i n dust r y. A n d ex p o r t g r ew. “ Cuba n r um ex p o r t s, i n 18 5 4, ac c e l e r ate d at a r e m a r ka b l e p ac e. T h e r e we r e a few r e as o ns. T h at ye a r, B r i t ai n o p e n e d i t s p o r t s to f o r e i g n p r o du c e a n d c o m m o di t i e s, i n c lu di n g r um. We ste r n Eur o p e was i n t h e t h r o e s of t h e oïdi um b li g ht … Cuba ex p o r te d n e a r ly t h r e e m i lli o n g a ll o ns p e r ye a r. S i x ye a r s l ate r, B r i t ai n e qu a lize d f o r e i g n r um i m p o r t dut i e s, p l ac i n g Cuba n r um p r o du c e r s o n a p a r w i t h t h e i r B r i t i s h C a r i b b e a n c o m p et i to r s.” (A . M i ll e r a n d J. B r ow n w i t h D. B r o o m a n d N . S t r a n g eway “C U B A . T h e Le g end o f R u m ”, 2 0 0 9) T h e Cuba n r um i n dust r y b e c a m e of p r i m a r y i m p o r t a n c e i n t h e e c o n o my of t h e i s l a n d, s o mu c h s o t h at w h e n i n 18 5 5 Le o p o l d o G a r cía Ruíz p ub li s h e d t h e “M a nua l d e la fa b r i c ac i ó n d e l a g ua r d i ente d e c a ña ” h e st ate d t h at i t s o b j e c t i ve was “ to i m p r ove o n e of t h e m o st i m p o r t a nt i n dust r i e s” a n d t h e n ad d e d t h at t h e Ada m a p p a r at us “ i s c o m m o n ly us e d i n t hi s C o unt y ”.

Two ye a r s l ate r, i n 18 57, J usto G . C a nte r o p ub li s h e d “LO S I N G E N I O S C o l l ec c i o n d e V is tas d e l o s Pr i nc i pa l es I ng en i o s d e A zu c a r d e la is la d e C u ba ” T h e b o o k i s c o ns i d e r e d o n e of t h e b e st Cuba n p ub li c at i o ns of t h e X I X c e nt ur y t h a nks to t h e num e r o us, b e aut i f ul li t h o g r a p h s by Edu a r d o L a p l a nte, w hi c h c o nst i t ute a l s o a m i n e of i m a g e s of t h e Cuba of t h e t i m e.

I n t h e I nt r o du c t i o n, C a nte r o w r ote: “ Rum di st i ll at i o n h as a l s o p r o s p e r e d a n d i t h as b e g un to b e m ad e p r o p e r ly: eve r y b o dy i s a lr e ady f a m i li a r w i t h t h e m o st ad va n c e d m et h o ds, t h e Fr e n c h, En g li s h, B e l g i a n st i ll s & c o., as we ll as B lum e nt h a l, S a n g ui e r y C of fe g [C of fey ? ], D e r o s n e, Eg r ot , S h e a r & s o n &c , &c di st i ll at i o n a p p a r at us e s. We h ave r e c e nt ly r e c e i ve d t h e wo r k w hi c h was p ub li s h e d i n Pa r i s: D up l ai s, Tr a i té d es

l i qu eu r s et d e la d is t i l la t i o n d e l a lc o o ls w hi c h we wo ul d like to g et t r a ns l ate d. T h e a p p a r at us I h ave us e d i s S h e a r a n d s o n f r o m Lo n d o n a n d i t h as g i ve n m e wo n d e r f ul r e sult s, p r o du c i n g a g a ll o n of r um eve r y g a ll o n of m o l as s e s, w hi c h i s t h e b e st yo u c o ul d w i s h f o r … O ve r t h e l ast few ye a r s, a c o ns i d e r a b l e num b e r of st i ll s h ave b e e n i nst a ll e d, s o m e of w hi c h c a p a b l e of p r o du c i n g f i f te e n to t we nt y p i p as a day, w hi c h m e a ns f r o m 16 9 5 to 2 2 6 0 g a ll o ns.”

Towa r ds t h e e n d of t hi s p e r i o d, J ac o b o d e l a Pezu e l a i n hi s “D i c c i o na r i o d e la I s la d e C u ba ” p ub li s h e d i n 18 6 3 -18 6 6 , w r ote: “ S u g a r i s t h e m ai n, b ut by n o m e a ns t h e o n ly p r o du c t of t h e p l a nt at i o ns. T h ey p r o du c e m o l as s e s to o … a n d t h e va r i o us t y p e s of r um of di f fe r e nt d e g r e e s a n d k i n ds t h at a r e c o nsum e d o n t h e i s l a n d, a n d t h o s e t h at a r e m e a nt f o r f o r e i g n m a r ket s ... Fr o m t h e a l e m b i c s e qui p p e d w i t h S h e a r, D e r o s n e, S a n g ui e r, Eg r o l C of fe g y B lum e nt h a l di st i lli n g a p p a r at us e s, f o r e ac h g a ll o n of r um c o r r e s p o n di n g to 4 ½ b ot t l e s, we o bt ai n t h e s a m e qu a nt i t y of r um of 3 0 d e g r e e s C a r t i e r m a ny t i m e s ove r. T h e r e a r e st i ll s w h o s e p r o du c t i o n exc e e ds 4 5 p i p as a day.”

Let us c o n c lu d e. To a nswe r a qu e st i o n as ke d by my r um f r i e n d R i c h a r d N i c h o l s o n (N ew Z e a l a n d Rum S o c i et y), w h o was t h e f i r st to us e a c o lum n st i ll i n Cuba?

S adly, I d o n ot k n ow.

O n ly a d e e p e r i m m e r s i o n i n S p a ni s h a n d Cuba n a r c hi ve s c o ul d, m ay b e, a nswe r t hi s qu e st i o n, b ut i t i s n ot i n my p l a ns, f o r n ow. Fo r n ow, I t hi nk i t ’s e n o u g h to h ave d e m o nst r ate d t h at t h e n ew c o nt i nu o us st i ll s we r e ad o pte d i n Cuba at l e ast as e a r ly as 18 32 .

T hi s m e a ns t h at i n Cuba t h ey we r e a m o n g t h e f i r st to ad o pt t h e m i n t h e C a r i b b e a n (m ay b e t h e ve r y f i r st ?), t h a nks to t h e dy n a m i s m of t h e Cuba n S u g a r B a r o ns a n d a l s o to t h e st r o n g r e l at i o ns b et we e n Cuba a n d Fr a n c e, w hi c h we w i ll r et ur n to i n t h e f ut ur e. A n d t hi s e a r ly ad o pt i o n i s i n my o p i ni o n ve r y i m p o r t a nt , f o r i t c o n c ur r e d to c h a n g e Cuba n r um f o r eve r p av i n g t h e way f o r i t s l ast i n g, wo r l d w i d e su c c e s s. Ye s, b e c aus e as we ll as b e i n g m o r e ef f i c i e nt a n d e c o n o m i c a l, p r o du c i n g a b i g g e r qu a nt i t y of s p i r i t f aste r a n d at a l owe r c o st , i t s o o n b e c a m e c l e a r t h at t h e r um (a n d t h e w hi s key) p r o du c e d by t h e n ew C o lum n S t i ll s was qu a li t at i ve ly di f fe r e nt f r o m t h e o l d s p i r i t m ad e i n t r adi t i o n a l Pot S t i ll s. I t was i n f ac t a n ot h e r k i n d of r um.

I t di d n ot h ave a ny of t h e usu a l bad s m e ll, t h e g o o d o l d “ r um st i nk ’ ”. O n t h e c o nt r a r y, i t s m e lt p l e as a nt . M o r e ove r, i t was li g hte r, e asy to dr i nk , a n d w i t h a b i t of a g e i n g, i t eve n t aste d r e a lly g o o d.

I t hi nk t h at ’s e n o u g h f o r n ow, s e e yo u n ex t m o nt h.

M a r c o Pi e r i ni P OST SC RI P T UM T h e p r o c e s s of m ak i n g su g a r c o ul d b e ve r y di f fe r e nt ac c o r di n g to t i m e, p l ac e s, m a r ket s, te c hni c a l c h o i c e s etc . I wa nt to r e m e m b e r t h at f o r t h e s ake of s i m p li c i t y I c a ll m o las s es a ll t h e m a ny k i n ds of by - p r o du c t s i t p r o du c e d.

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 3 1

Unt il The

B IT TER

END Join u s a s we exp lo re t h e f a scinat ing wo r l d of b i t t e r f l avo r s and t h eir ro l e in g a st rono my, mixolo g y and h eal t h.

Pre sent e d by

R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 32 Got Rum

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 3 3

Until The

B IT TER

END S c i e n c e h a s c l a s s i f i e d f l avo r s i nt o f i ve m a i n g r o u p s , a s p e r c e i ve d by o u r t o n g u e s . T h e s e g r o u p s a r e: S we et , S o u r, S a l t y, B i t te r a n d - m o s t r e c e nt l y - U m a m i.

M o s t f o o d s a n d b eve r a g e s h ave a c o m b i n at i o n o f f l avo r i n g c o m p o u n d s t h a t g i ve t h e m t h e i r p a r t i c u l a r “ f o o t p r i nt ,” t h a t c a n e n c o m p a s s s eve r a l o f t h e s e f l avo r g r o u p s . T h i s n ew s e r i e s i s d evote d t o t h e B i t te r f l avo r, a n d t o i t s i m p a c t o n o u r eve r yd ay l i f e.

Evo l u t i o n a r y s c i e nt i s t s s u g g e s t t h a t t h e a b i l i t y t o d ete c t b i t te r n e s s evo l ve d a s a way t o p r ote c t

Got Rum R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 34

u s f r o m t ox i c p l a nt s a n d ot h e r s u b s t a n c e s , w h i c h o f te n t a s te b i t te r. A l t h o u g h i t g et s a b a d r a p, b i t te r n e s s c a n b e u s e d t o c r e ate we l l - r o u n d e d a n d d e s i r a b l e f l avo r p a l ate s . Yo u m ay n ot b e awa r e o f i t , b u t b i t te r n e s s i s p r e s e nt i n m a ny o f o u r f avo r i te f o o d s i n c l u d i n g c h o c o l ate, c o f f e e, wine and barrel-aged spirits.

W h a t d o e s t h e w o r d “ B i t t e r ” m e a n?

M e r r i a m - We b s te r d i c t i o n a r y d ef i n e s t h e w o r d b i t te r (w h e n u s e d a s a n a d j e c t i ve) a s: b e i n g , i n d u c i n g , o r m a r ke d by t h e o n e o f t h e f i ve b as i c tas te s e ns a t i o ns t h a t i s p e c u l i a r ly a c r i d , as t r i n g e n t , a n d o f te n d i s a g r e ea b l e a n d c h a r a c te r i s t i c o f c i t r us p e e l s , u ns we e te n e d c o c o a , b l a c k c o f f e e, m a tu r e l ea f y g r e e ns (s u c h as ka l e o r m us ta r d ), o r a l e. T h e o r i g i n o f t h e w o r d g o e s b a c k t o M i d d l e En g l i s h, f r o m O l d En g l i s h b i te r, g o i n g b a c k t o G e r m a n i c *b i t r a (w h e n c e O l d S a xo n & O l d H i g h G e r m a n b i t t a r “ a c r i d - t a s t i n g,” O l d N o r s e b i t r “ b i t i n g, s h a r p” ) a n d *b a i t r a - (w h e n c e G ot h i c b a i t r s “ s h a r p - t a s t i n g ” ), d e r i vat i ve s f r o m t h e b a s e o f *b ī ta n - “ t o b i te.”

H o w D o e s “ B i t t e r ” A c t u a l l y Ta s t e?

B i t te r n e s s i s n e i t h e r s a l t y n o r s o u r, b u t m ay at t i m e s a c c o m p a ny t h e s e f l avo r s e n s a t i o n s .

M a ny p e o p l e a r e i n n a te l y o p p o s e d t o b i t te r f l avo r s , b u t a l i k i n g f o r i t c a n a n d i s a c q u i r e d.

C o m p o u n d s t h a t h ave a n a l k a l i n e p H , s u c h a s b a k i n g s o d a , o f te n h ave a b i t te r f l avo r.

S c i e nt i f i c r e s e a r c h h a s f o u n d t h a t s o m e h u m a n s a r e m o r e s e n s i t i ve t o b i t te r f l avo r s t h a n ot h e r s .1 T h e s e i n d i v i d u a l s a r e r ef e r r e d t o a s “ s u p e r t a s te r s” a n d a r e o f te n o f A s i a n, A f r i c a n, o r S o u t h A m e r i c a n d e s c e nt .

B e i n g a s u p e r t a s te r m ay ex p l a i n w hy s o m e i n d i v i d u a l s f i n d t h e f l avo r o f ve g et a b l e s h i g h l y d i s a g r e e a b l e. M o s t ve g et a b l e s c o nt a i n a t l e a s t s o m e b i t te r n e s s , e s p e c i a l l y w h e n r aw.

B i t t e r Fo o d s D a r k , l e a f y g r e e n s a r e we l l k n o w n f o r t h e i r b i t te r f l avo r. G r e e n l e a f y ve g et a b l e s o f te n i n c r e a s e i n b i t te r n e s s a s t h ey m a t u r e. Fo r t h i s r e a s o n, m a ny p e o p l e p r ef e r te n d e r yo u n g g r e e n s t o t h e i r m o r e m a t u r e - a n d b i t te rc o u nte r p a r t s . B i t te r g r e e n ve g et a b l e s i n c l u d e k a l e, d a n d e l i o n g r e e n s a n d b r o c c o l i.

C o c o a i s a n ot h e r f o o d t h a t i s e n j oye d f o r i t s b i t te r f l avo r. P u r e c o c o a h a s a d i s t i n c t b i t te r n e s s , w h i c h c a n b e u s e d t o b a l a n c e f l avo r s l i ke s we et o r s p i c y i n o t h e r f o o d s .

A d d i n g s u g a r a n d c r e a m t o c o c o a s i g n i f i c a nt l y r e d u c e s i t s b i t te r n e s s , m a k i n g i t m o r e p a l at a b l e.

L i kew i s e, b l a c k c o f f e e c a n b e q u i te b i t te r.

Although sugar and cream can be added to r e d u c e t h e b i t te r n e s s , m a ny g r o w t o e n j oy t h e s h a r p f l avo r o f b l a c k c o f f e e. T h e t y p e o f b e a n a n d t h e u n i q u e r o a s t i n g m et h o d w i l l a l s o i m p a c t c o f f e e’s l eve l o f b i t te r n e s s .

C i t r u s p e e l s a r e we l l k n o w n f o r i t s b i t te r n e s s , m o s t o f w h i c h r e s i d e s i n t h e w h i te p i t h. A s w i t h m o s t b i t te r f l avo r s , i t c a n b e u n d e s i r a b l e o n i t s o w n, b u t w h e n c o m b i n e d w i t h ot h e r f l avo r e l e m e nt s , i t c a n p r ov i d e d i m e n s i o n a n d b a l a n c e. O t h e r f r u i t s a n d ve g et a b l e s t h at m ay p r ov i d e b i t te r f l avo r s m ay i n c l u d e g r a p ef r u i t , b i t te r m e l o n, m u s t a r d g r e e n s , a n d o l i ve s .

B eve r a g e s s u c h a s t o n i c wate r, b i t te r s , a n d m ate te a a r e a l l a l s o c o n s i d e r e d b i t te r. B ef o r e s hy i n g away f r o m b i t te r i n g r e d i e nt s i n t h e f u t u r e, ex p l o r e h o w t h ey c a n b e c o m b i n e d w i t h c o m p l i m e nt a r y t a s te s t o b u i l d a c o m p l ex a n d e n j oya b l e f l avo r p r o f i l e.

J o i n u s , a s we ex p l o r e t h e w o n d e r f u l w o r l d o f B i t te r a n d B i t te r n e s s!

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 3 5

Until The

B IT TER

END Featured Ingredient: Green Cardamom Scientific Name: Elettaria cardamomum T h e r e a r e t wo m ai n t y p e s of c a r da m o m: b l ac k c a r da m o m a n d g r e e n c a r da m o m, a n d t h e r e i s a l s o w hi te c a r da m o m w hi c h i s a b l e ac h e d ve r s i o n of g r e e n c a r da m o m.

G r e e n c a r da m o m i s t h e k i n d f o un d m o st of te n i n N o r di c a n d M i d dl e E aste r n c ui s i n e, w hi l e r e c i p e s i n I n di a a n d A s i a w i ll of te n s p e c i f y w h et h e r g r e e n o r b l ac k c a r da m o m i s us e d.

G r e e n c a r da m o m i s k n ow n as tr u e c a r da m o m. T hi s i s t h e m o st c o m m o n va r i et y yo u w i ll s e e s o l d i n t h e s p i c e ai s l e of t h e sup e r m a r ket . I t i s t h e to p c h o i c e f o r swe et di s h e s b ut a l s o wo r ks we ll i n s avo r y di s h e s. T h e b l e ac h e d ve r s i o n, w hi te c a r da m o m, h as l e s s f l avo r. I t i s g r ow n i n t r o p i c a l a r e as i n c lu di n g I n di a, M a l ays i a, a n d C o st a R i c a.

C a r da m o m i s us e d to s p i c e b ot h swe et a n d s avo r y di s h e s. It i s w i d e ly e m p l oye d i n I n di a n, M i d dl e E aste r n, A r a b i c , a n d S we di s h c ui s i n e. It c o m e s i n t wo t y p e s a n d i s us e d as w h o l e p o ds, s e e ds, o r g r o un d.

(S o u r c e: ht t p s: // w w w.t h e s p r u c e e a t s .c o m)

D i d Yo u K n ow T h a t . . .

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I t s A nt i ox i da nt a n d D i ur et i c Pr o p e r t i e s M ay Lowe r B l o o d Pr e s sur e

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M ay C o nt ai n C a n c e r- Fi g ht i n g C o m p o un ds

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M ay Pr ote c t f r o m C h r o ni c D i s e as e s T h a nks to A nt i - I nf l a m m ato r y Ef fe c t s

Got Rum R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 36

•

M ay H e lp w i t h D i g e st i ve Pr o b l e m s, I n c lu di n g U l c e r s

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M ay Tr e at B ad B r e at h a n d Pr eve nt C av i t i e s

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M ay H ave A nt i bac te r i a l Ef fe c t s a n d Tr e at I nfe c t i o ns

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M ay Lowe r B l o o d S u g a r Leve l s (S o u r c e: ht t p s: // w w w. h e a l t h l i n e.c o m / )

Wa r ni n g s: I f us e d f o r a p r o l o n g e d t i m e a n d i n l a r g e qu a nt i t i e s, c a r da m o m m i g ht l e ad to s o m e un ex p l ai n e d a ll e r g i c r e ac t i o ns.

S k i n a ll e r g y k n ow n as c o nt ac t d e r m at i t i s i s a p o p ul a r t y p e of s k i n r as h d eve l o p e d du e to ove r i nt ake of c a r da m o m.

M o st a n e c d ot a l st u di e s su g g e st t h at to o mu c h i nt ake of c a r da m o m c aus e s g a ll sto n e c o m p li c at i o ns.

S o m e p r e s c r i pt i o n m e di c i n e s m ay i nte r ac t w i t h c a r da m o m ad ve r s e ly a n d l e ad to s e r i o us h e a lt h c o ns e qu e n c e s.

(S o u r c e: ht t p s: // w w w. s t y l e c r a ze.c o m / )

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 3 7

Until The

B IT TER

END Featured Bitters Recipe: Cardamom Bitters C a r da m o m i s a c o m m o n ly us e d i n g r e di e nt i n b i t te r s, a n d f o r a g o o d r e as o n: i t s nut t y, f r ui t y, a n d p i n ey t aste c o nt r i b ute s a wo n d e r f ul di m e ns i o n to dr i nks, e s p e c i a lly to Fa ll c o c k t ai l s.

C a r da m o m a l s o m atc h e s we ll w i t h nut m e g, c i nn a m o n, a n d l e m o n. H e r e i s a s i m p l e b i t te r s r e c i p e t h at yo u c a n qui c k ly m ake at h o m e.

I n g r e d i e n t s: •

1 C. R ye W hi s key

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Full Z e st of 1 Le m o n

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2 T b s p. G r e e n C a r da m o m Po ds

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2 W h o l e N ut m e g S e e ds

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1 T b s p. B l ac k Pe p p e r c o r ns

D i r e c t i o n s: Put h a l f of t h e w hi s key a n d l e m o n i n o n e j a r a n d t h e ot h e r h a l f a n d s p i c e s i n t h e ot h e r. S e a l b ot h j a r s a n d s h ake we ll f o r a c o up l e s e c o n ds. Let t h e l e m o n i nf us e f o r t wo to t h r e e days, a n d t h e s p i c e s f o r f o ur to f i ve days.

Fi lte r o ut t h e s o li d i n g r e di e nt s w h e n t h ey s m e ll j ust r i g ht , a n d c o m b i n e t h e li qui ds i n a n ew j a r o r b ot t l e. C h e c k h ow we ll t h e b i t te r s t ur n e d o ut i n a dr i nk . D i lute w i t h a b i t of wate r o r swe ete n w i t h a to u c h of s i m p l e sy r up i f n e e d e d.

Got R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 38

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 3 9

Rum in the news

by M ike Kun et ka

M ONTA NYA D ISTILLE R S M o n t a nya D i s t i l l e r s i n C r e s t e d B u t t e, C o l o r a d o w i l l b e r e l e a s i n g t h e i r n e w r u m , M o n t a nya Fu e r z a (w h i c h m e a n s s t r e n g t h), o n M a r c h 8 i n c e l e b r a t i o n o f I n t e r n a t i o n a l Wo m e n’s D ay a n d Wo m e n’s H i s t o r y M o n t h . Fu e r z a i s a f o u r- ye a r- a g e d ove r p r o o f r u m , f i n i s h e d i n a n U n c l e N e a r e s t b a r r e l . M o nt a nya Fu e r z a w i l l o n l y b e ava i l a b l e a t t h e M o n t a nya Ta s t i n g R o o m i n C r e s t e d B u t t e. A p o r t i o n o f t h e p r o c e e d s w i l l b e n e f i t C r e s t e d B u t t e’s o w n M e l a n i n M o u n t a i n P r o j e c t a n d t h e l a b e l f e a t u r e s a r t w o r k f r o m B I P O C a r t i s t A m e t hy s t M c D o w e l l . K a r e n H o s k i n s , M o n t a nya’s C EO a n d o w n e r, was one of six individuals in the rum industr y named T h e U l t i m a t e & M o s t A d m i r a b l e C EO 2 0 2 3 by T h e U l t i m a t e Aw a r d s a n d T h e R u m L a b. S e e p a r a g r a p h b e l o w. h t t p s: // w w w. m o n t a nya r u m .c o m / T H E ULTI M ATE A N D M OST A D M I R A B LE C EO AWA R D S

T h e s e a r e t h e m o s t r e c e nt a n d n o tew o r t hy h e a d l i n e s i n t h e r u m i n d u s t r y. I f yo u wa nt u s t o s h a r e yo u r n ew s w i t h o u r r e a d e r s , p l e a s e s e n d m e a n e m a i l t o: M i ke @ g o t r u m .c o m.

Got R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 40

T h e U l t i m a t e Aw a r d s a n d T h e R u m L a b r e c o g n i z e d t h e c o n t r i b u t i o n s o f s i x r u m i n d u s t r y C h i e f E xe c u t i ve O f f i c e r s f o r t h e i r exc e p t i o n a l p e r f o r m a n c e a n d meritorious contributions to society in 2022. In a c e r e m o ny a t t h e M i a m i R u m C o n g r e s s , t h e s i x w e r e p r e s e n t e d w i t h T h e U l t i m a t e a n d M o s t A d m i r a b l e C EO Aw a r d. T h e r e c o g n i z e d C EO s w e r e:

•

M a r t h a M i l l e r, C EO o f N a t i o n a l R u m s o f J a m a i c a .

M i l l e r b r o ke g r o u n d by b e i n g t h e f i r s t w o m a n t o h o l d t h i s p o s i t i o n i n t h e J a m a i c a n r u m s e c t o r.

S h e i s r e s p o n s i b l e f o r ove r s e e i n g t h e o p e r a t i o n s of National Rums of Jamaica, a corporation c o m p r i s e d o f f i ve d i v i s i o n s a n d t w o d i s t i l l e r i e s .

• J o s e Á l va r e z , C EO a n d Fo u n d e r o f S a n J u a n A r t i s a n D i s t i l l e r s . W h e n Á l va r e z ’s l a n d s c a p i n g business floundered with the economic collapse of 2008, he decided to grow sugarcane and m a ke r u m . T h e n , i n 2 017, H u r r i c a n e M a r i a w i p e d o u t t h e c a n e f i e l d s h e h a d w o r ke d s o h a r d t o c u l t i va t e. H e p e r s eve r e d a n d n o w Tr e s C l avo s Rum is his bestselling rum.

• J o s e R . B a l l e s t e r o s , C EO o f D e s t i l e r i a s U n i d a s .

José Rafael, who was raised in the f ield of d i s t i l l i n g a n d m a n u f a c t u r i n g s p i r i t s , t o o k ove r t h e f a m i l y f i r m a n d t u r n e d i t a r o u n d. I n 2 0 0 2 , t h ey p u r c h a s e d L i c o r e r a s U n i d a s ( LUS A) a n d s eve r a l o f i t s b r a n d s , i n c l u d i n g t h e r e n o w n e d R o n D i p l o m á t i c o, t o h i s g r e a t d e l i g h t .

• K a r e n H o s k i n s , C EO o f M o nt a nya D i s t i l l e r s .

K a r e n s t a r t e d M o nt a nya D i s t i l l e r s i n S i l ve r t o n , Colorado in 2008, at a time when the industr y w a s d o m i n a t e d by m e n . S h e h a d t o f i g h t t o b e t a ke n s e r i o u s l y f o r h e r f i r s t d e c a d e i n b u s i n e s s .

She is passionate about gender equality and e nv i r o n m e n t a l s u s t a i n a b i l i t y. M o nt a nya w a s t h e w o r l d ’s f i r s t c e r t i f i e d B C o r p r u m d i s t i l l e r y.

• A l ex a n d r e G a b r i e l , C EO o f M a i s o n Fe r r a n d.

G a b r i e l s t a r t e d M a i s o n Fe r r a n d i n 19 8 9 w i t h a m i s s i o n t o p r e s e r ve a g e - o l d, c r a f t p r o d u c t i o n m e t h o d s t h a t c a p t u r e t h e t r u e ex p r e s s i o n o f t h e s p i r i t . I n 19 9 6 , h e c r e a t e d C i t a d e l l e G i n , t h e G i n d e Fr a n c e, s p e a r h e a d i n g t h e m ove m e nt f o r Fr e n c h g i n s . A l ex a n d r e t h e n i nt r o d u c e d P l a n t a t i o n R u m i n 19 9 9, r e f l e c t i n g h i s p a s s i o n f o r o l d r u m - m a k i n g t e c h n i q u e s a n d i nt r o d u c i n g h i s trademark double-ageing process.

• S t eve J e f f e r s o n , C EO a n d C o - f o u n d e r o f Ku l e a n a R u m . O n a f a m i l y t r i p, S t eve n o t i c e d t h e s i m i l a r i t i e s b et w e e n M a r t i n i q u e a n d h i s h o m e s t a t e o f H a w a i i . A f t e r d i s c ove r i n g t h e ex i s t e n c e o f H a w a i i a n h e i r l o o m s u g a r c a n e va r i et a l s , S t eve d e c i d e d t o m a ke r u m f r o m f r e s h p r e s s e d s u g a r c a n e j u i c e. S e e my a r t i c l e o n S t eve a n d Ku l e a n a R u m o n p a g e 4 8 . h t t p s: // t h e r u m l a b.c o m / h t t p s: // t h e u l t i m a t e a w a r d s . com/

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Wa r e h o u s e # 1 O ve r p r o o f W h i t e Ru m S TC HE - T h i s r u m o r i g i n a t e d i n J a m a i c a’s L o n g Po n d D i s t i l l e r y, w h i c h w a s f o u n d e d i n 175 3 a n d i s f a m o u s f o r i t s d i s t i n c t i ve, f u n k y r u m s t h a t a r e created through an authentic distillation process.

T h e a b b r ev i a t i o n S TC E o r “ S i m o n T h o m p s o n C a m b r i d g e E s t a t e” r e f e r s t o t h e e s t e r c o nt e n t c l a s s i f i c a t i o n u s e d by t h e C a m b r i d g e d i s t i l l e r y, w h i c h d i s a p p e a r e d i n 19 47. T h e e s t e r c o nt e n t i n t h i s r u m va r i e s b e t w e e n 5 5 0 -70 0 g / h L PA ..

Wa r e h o u s e # 1 O ve r p r o o f W h i t e Ru m R i ve r M u m m a Ed i t i o n W P/ C J N – T h e “ m u m m a” i s a creature that combines a mermaid and a jelly fish a n d p r o t e c t s t h e f r e s h w a t e r s o f J a m a i c a’s r i ve r s .

T h i s Wo r t hy Pa r k c o n t r i b u t i o n i s s a i d t o b e m a d e f r o m f r e s h c a n e j u i c e f r o m t h e i r o w n p l a nt a t i o n .

Wa r e h o u s e # 1 O ve r p r o o f W h i t e Ru m A n a n s i Ed i t i o n N Y E / HM - N e w Ya r m o u t h E s t a t e i s a my s t e r i o u s d i s t i l l e r y s t a n d i n g i n t h e C l a r e n d o n a r e a n e a r C l a r e n d o n D i s t i l l e r y a n d M o ny m u s k Sugar works. The owners of the distiller y are ex t r e m e l y s e c r e t i ve, i n f o r m a t i o n i s s c a r c e, a n d t h e r e f o r e eve n i n d e p e n d e nt f i l l i n g s a r e ve r y r a r e.

T h i s h e av y, f r u i t y r u m i s b o t t l e d a t a t y p i c a l l y J a m a i c a n A BV o f 6 3% w i t h a n e s t e r c o n t e n t b e t w e e n 5 0 0 -70 0 g / HL PA .

Wa r e h o u s e # 1 O ve r p r o o f W h i t e Ru m J o h n C r o w Ed i t i o n DO C – T h i s o f f e r i n g c o m e s f r o m H a m p d e n E s t a t e, a f a b l e d d i s t i l l e r y n e s t l e d bet ween the mountains of Cockpit Countr y and t h e s e a a t Tr e l a w ny. L e g e n d h a s i t t h a t J a m a i c a n b r a n d y w a s s t o l e n h e r e by m e m b e r s o f a c r i m i n a l g a n g f r o m Tr e l a w ny. T h e b r a n d y w a s n a m e d J o h n C r o w, b e c a u s e a p e r s o n h a d t o h ave a s t o m a c h a s s t r o n g a s a v u l t u r e, w h i c h i s c a l l e d “J o h n C r o w ” i n J a m a i c a , i n o r d e r t o d r i n k i t . DO K , o r D e r m o t O w e n Ke l l y, H a m p d e n E s t a t e r u m b r a n d w i t h t h e h i g h e s t e s t e r c o n t e n t , h ove r i n g a r o u n d 16 0 0 g / b l .

Wa r e h o u s e # 1 O ve r p r o o f W h i t e Ru m R o l l i n g C a l f Ed i t i o n T EC A – T h e R o l l i n g C a l f i s a my t h i c a l creature from Jamaican folk culture that belongs to the so - called Duppies or ghosts. The Rolling Calf is said to be the spirit of a dead person w h o h a s t a ke n t h e f o r m o f a n a n i m a l t h a t r o a m s t h e n i g h t l o o k i n g f o r t r o u b l e d s o u l s . T h e T EC A W i l d R u m f r o m L o n g Po n d D i s t i l l e r y h a s a n e s t e r c o n t e n t o f 13 0 0 g /m l . h t t p s: // w w w.w a r e h o u s e1.c z /

WA R E H OUSE # 1

PA PA’ S P IL A R

C ze c h Re p u b l i c i n d e p e n d e nt b o t t l e r, Wa r e h o u s e # 1, has released a line of rums that are all unaged white spirits from iconic Jamaican distilleries, bottled at 6 3% . T h ey i n c l u d e: • Wa r e h o u s e # 1 O ve r p r o o f W h i t e R u m HLC F HLC F o r “ H a m p d e n L i g h t C o nt i n e nt a l F l avo r e d ” i s t h e r e s u l t o f t r a d i t i o n a l w i l d f e r m e nt a t i o n a n d d i s t i l l a t i o n t h a t h a s b e e n m a i nt a i n e d i n J a m a i c a’s Tr e l a w ny a r e a f o r c e nt u r i e s . W i t h a n e s t e r c o nt e n t b et we e n 5 0 0 - 6 0 0 , t h i s r u m i s n o t a s i nt e n s e a s o t h e r r u m s p r o d u c e d by t h e H a m p d e n d i s t i l l e r y, b u t i t i s s t i l l f u n k y, f r u i t y a n d a r o m a t i c .

C h i e f C o n s e r va t i o n O f f i c e r, M i ke M ya t t , r e c e n t l y v i s i t e d t h e I .C A RE o r g a n i z a t i o n i n I s l a m o r a d a , FL to donate $25,0 0 0 to suppor t reef restoration, c o n s e r va t i o n a n d e d u c a t i o n e f f o r t s . Key We s t R u m M a ke r a n d m a r i n e b i o l o g i s t , S h a w n M a r t i n , j o i n e d t h e I .C A RE f o l k s f o r t h e i r D i ve & Tr a n s p l a n t D ay, helping to transplant coral and monitor the health of p r ev i o u s l y t r a n s p l a n t e d c o r a l s . I .C A RE i s d e d i c a t e d to restoring the reefs of Islamorada, including the w o r l d - f a m o u s A l l i g a t o r Re e f. h t t p s: // w w w. p a p a s p i l a r. c o m / h t t p s: // w w w. i c a r e a b o u t c o r a l .o r g /

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 4 1

M ATUGG A D ISTILLE RY

D ON T H E B E AC H C O M B E R

A new age of rum- distilling is on the horizon for Scotland, as the award-winning Matugga Distiller y l a u n c h e s i t s p r i va t e c a s k o w n e r s h i p p r o g r a m t o t h e p u b l i c . I n s p i r e d by t h e s u c c e s s o f S c o t c h w h i s k y, t h e distiller y is of fering people the chance to tap into the e m e r g i n g m a r ket o f r u m c a s k o w n e r s h i p a n d t o b e ‘ p a r t o f S c o t l a n d ’s d i s t i l l i n g h i s t o r y ’. Reve r e d w h i s k y ex p e r t C h a r l e s M a c L e a n , M B E b e l i eve s t h e m ove w i l l ‘ p u t S c o t t i s h r u m o n t h e m a p’. A l i m i t e d n u m b e r o f c a s ks a r e ava i l a b l e f o r a n i n i t i a l i nve s t m e n t o f £3,30 0 each. The result will be circa 350 bottles o f 3 - ye a r- o l d r u m p e r ex- B o u r b o n c a s k , p r o d u c e d u s i n g a 2 , 0 0 0 - l i t r e c o p p e r p o t s t i l l by h e a d d i s t i l l e r a n d l e a d i n g c r a f t r u m ex p e r t , Pa u l R u t a s i k w a . T h e exc l u s i ve c a s k o w n e r s h i p i s ava i l a b l e o n a f i r s t c o m e, f i r s t f i l l e d b a s i s i n w h a t Pa u l d e s c r i b e s a s “ a m i l e s t o n e m o m e nt f o r S c o t t i s h r u m”. Pa u l s a i d: “ T h i s i s a n o p p o r t u n i t y l i ke n o o t h e r t o j o i n u s o n a ve r y s p e c i a l j o u r n ey. S c o t l a n d h a s a l i t t l e k n o w n a n d ve r y d e e p r u m h e r i t a g e l i n ke d t o t h e A g e o f I m p e r i a l i s m . N o w, i n 2 0 2 3 , we’r e p a r t o f S c o t l a n d ’s exc i t i n g n e w w ave o f r u m d i s t i l l e r s a n d t h e r e’s a r e a l o p p o r t u n i t y f o r u s t o c r e a t e h i s t o r y a n d t a ke S c o t t i s h r u m w o r l d w i d e.” M a t u g g a w a s o n e o f t h e first UK businesses to produce rums distilled from s c r a t c h . A l o n g s i d e h i s w i f e J a c i n e, Pa u l s e t - u p t h e L i v i n g s t o n - b a s e d d i s t i l l e r y i n 2 018 . T h e i r a r t i s a n a l c a s k- a g e d a n d s p i c e d r u m s h ave w o n m u l t i p l e i nt e r n a t i o n a l a w a r d s , i n c l u d i n g t w o G o l d m e d a l s a t the Rum and Cachaça Masters. h t t p s: // w w w. m a t u g g a r u m .c o m /

L a s t ye a r, 2 3 Re s t a u r a n t S e r v i c e s a c q u i r e d a n d a d d e d the iconic Don the Beachcomber restaurant brand t o i t s a l r e a d y i m p r e s s i ve p o r t f o l i o. L a s t m o n t h , i n h o n o r o f D o n n’s b i r t h d ay ( Fe b r u a r y 2 2), t h e Ta m p a b a s e d h o s p i t a l i t y c o m p a ny h a s m ove d f o r w a r d w i t h a n ex p a n s i ve g r o w t h s t r a t e g y f o r i t s n e w t i k i - t h e m e d r e s t a u r a n t b r a n d. A c c o r d i n g t o M a r c B r o w n , P r e s i d e n t o f 2 3 Re s t a u r a n t S e r v i c e s , t h e r e a r e c u r r e n t l y t w o Don the Beachcomber restaurants and bars under d eve l o p m e n t i n C e n t r a l F l o r i d a , w i t h t h e f i r s t s l a t e d t o o p e n by t h e e n d o f t h e ye a r. E a c h o f t h e r e s t a u r a n t s w i l l f e a t u r e t h e e c c e n t r i c , Po l y n e s i a n - i n s p i r e d d e s i g n a n d f l a m b oya n t , r u m - b a s e d d r i n k s t h a t h ave b e c o m e sy n o ny m o u s w i t h D o n t h e B e a c h c o m b e r l o c a t i o n s f o r m o r e t h a n 9 0 ye a r s . “ D o n t h e B e a c h c o m b e r i s t h e m o s t i c o n i c b r a n d i n t i k i h i s t o r y, s o i t ’s i m p o s s i b l e t o ove r s t a t e h o w exc i t e d w e a r e a b o u t w h a t l i e s a h e a d ,” s a i d B r o w n . “ We l o o k f o r w a r d t o l eve r a g i n g o u r ex p e r t i s e i n m a n a g e m e nt a n d o p e r a t i o n a l exc e l l e n c e to reintroduce the world to the legend that is Don the B e a c h c o m b e r.” T h e ex p a n s i o n i s b e i n g s u p p o r t e d by a newly assembled advisor y board made up of some of t h e m o s t i n f l u e n t i a l vo i c e s i n t i k i c u l t u r e ove r t h e l a s t 3 0 ye a r s . T h ey a r e: • Tim “Swanky ” Glazner – Donn Beach historian currently working on a book and documentar y a b o u t D o n n B e a c h . A u t h o r o f M a i - K a i: H i s t o r y a n d Myster y of the Iconic Tiki restaurant.

• M a r t i n C a t e – A u t h o r o f S m u g g l e r ’s C ove, a s w e l l a s t h e o w n e r o f t h e b a r by t h e s a m e n a m e.

• S ve n K i r s t e n – T i k i h i s t o r i a n a n d a u t h o r o f f o u r t i k i books, including The Book of Tiki, which is touted a s a ve r i t a b l e b i b l e w i t h i n t h e g e n r e.

• J o h n M u l d e r – Fa m o u s t i k i m u g d e s i g n e r a n d o w n e r o f Ee k u m B o o k u m T i k i M u g s .

• D a n ny “ T i k i D i a b l o” G a l l a r d o – Fa m o u s d e s i g n e r o f tiki car vings, ceramic cocktail mugs and complete tiki bar interiors.

M a r i e K i n g , f o r m e r B eve r a g e D i r e c t o r a n d G e n e r a l M a n a g e r o f To n g a H u t i n H o l l y w o o d , C a l i f o r n i a , h a s j o i n e d t h e 2 3 Re s t a u r a n t S e r v i c e s t e a m a s D i r e c t o r o f B eve r a g e. “A s s e m b l i n g t h i s d y n a m i c a n d l e g e n d a r y g r o u p o f ex p e r t s t o s e r ve a s o u r a d v i s o r y b o a r d w a s t h e f i r s t s t e p i n d eve l o p i n g a p l a n t o s h a r e a n d represent the histor y and life of Don the Beachcomber w i t h t h e u t m o s t a u t h e n t i c i t y,” s a i d B r o w n . “ We c o u l d n o t b e m o r e exc i t e d t o s h a r e t h e w o r k w e a r e d o i n g t o g e t h e r t o b r i n g D o n t h e B e a c h c o m b e r b a c k t o l i f e.”

D o n t h e B e a c h c o m b e r w a s f o u n d e d by D o n n B e a c h ( b o r n Er n e s t R ay m o n d G a n t t), a n A m e r i c a n a d ve n t u r e r, b u s i n e s s m a n , a n d Wo r l d Wa r II ve t e r a n . A f t e r t r ave l i n g i n t h e S o u t h Pa c i f i c a n d t h e C a r i b b e a n , h e w o r ke d a s a va l e t , d i s h w a s h e r, b o o t l e g g e r, a n d m ov i e a d v i s o r f o r a n u m b e r o f ye a r s . I n t h e e a r l y 19 3 0 s , B e a c h o p e n e d t h e ve r y f i r s t D o n t h e B e a c h c o m b e r i n H o l l y w o o d , C a l i f o r n i a , a b l o c k o f f H o l l y w o o d B o u l eva r d. I n s p i r e d by h i s t r ave l s a n d t h e S o u t h S e a s m ov i e s , h e f i l l e d t h e new place with a collection of odds and ends he found a n d i m p o r t e d d u r i n g h i s exc u r s i o n s ( b a m b o o, f i s h i n g f l o a t s , g r a s s m a t t i n g s , et c .). h t t p s: // w w w. 2 3 r e s t a u r a n t s .c o m /

CA NE ISL A N D C a n e I s l a n d R u m o f f e r s a n a u t h e nt i c r a n g e o f r u m s f r o m s e l e c t e d C a r i b b e a n a n d C e nt r a l A m e r i c a n c o u n t r i e s . T h e s e r u m s t r u l y r e p r e s e nt t h e s t y l e a n d tradition of the origins and distilleries. The rum selection of Cane Island Rum consists of Single Island Blends and Single Estate Rums. The Single Island Blends are blends of rum coming from d i f f e r e n t d i s t i l l e r i e s f r o m o n e i s l a n d. T h e S i n g l e E s t a t e R u m s a r e s o u r c e d f r o m o n e s i n g l e d i s t i l l e r y.

T h e i r r e c e n t 12- ye a r N i c a r a g u a S i n g l e E s t a t e i s o n e o f t h o s e r u m s a n d h a s a n i nt e r e s t i n g s t o r y. T h e l a b e l s ay s 10 0 % Tr o p i c a l A g e d, b u t t h e r e i s a t w i s t . I n 2 0 0 6 , t h e C o m p a ñía L i c o r e r a d e N i c a r a g u a s o l d a b i g b a t c h o f f r e s h l y d i s t i l l e d b u l k r u m t o a c o m p a ny i n t h e P h i l i p p i n e s , a l o n g w i t h e n o u g h s t ave s o f exb o u r b o n b a r r e l s t o s t a r t t h e a g i n g o f t h e r u m . Tw e l ve ye a r s l a t e r, C a n e I s l a n d b o u g h t t h e w h o l e b a t c h f r o m t h e c o m p a ny i n t h e P h i l i p p i n e s t h r o u g h a r u m b r o ke r.

C o m p a ñía L i c o r e r a d e N i c a r a g u a h a s l o n g s i n c e s t o p p e d s e l l i n g b u l k r u m , a s t h e i r o w n b r a n d s h ave g r o w n , a n d i t i s n o w ve r y d i f f i c u l t t o f i n d N i c a r a g u a r u m f r o m i n d e p e n d e nt b o t t l e r s . T h e r u m’s 12- ye a r- o l d h i s t o r y h a s s p a n n e d t h e g l o b e, a n d j u s t l i ke a l l t h e i r S i n g l e E s t a t e s , t h e a g e s t a t e m e nt r e f e r s e n t i r e l y to tropical aging, albeit the tropical climate of the Philippines, not Nicaragua. h t t p s: // w w w.c a n e i s l a n d - r u m .c o m /

Got R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 42

M OUNT G AY R U M M o u nt G ay R u m i s c e l e b r a t i n g i t s 3 2 0 t h b i r t h d ay t h i s ye a r w i t h t h e l a u n c h o f B l a c k B a r r e l C a s k S t r e n g t h Rum. The brand claims that it is the oldest-running r u m - p r o d u c i n g d i s t i l l e r y, h av i n g b e e n e s t a b l i s h e d i n 170 3 . “ T h e ye a r i s m o n u m e nt a l f o r M o u nt G ay,” n o t e d A n t o i n e C o u v r e u r, M a n a g i n g D i r e c t o r f o r M o u n t G ay, a c c o r d i n g t o S p i r i t ’s B u s i n e s s . “A s we c e l e b r a t e 3 2 0 ye a r s o f h e r i t a g e a n d t r a d i t i o n , we a l s o ke e p o u r p i o n e e r i n g s p i r i t a n d h ave t a s ke d o u r s e l ve s w i t h b e i n g t h e i n d u s t r y l e a d e r i n s u s t a i n a b i l i t y. We m u s t g i ve b a c k t o t h e l a n d we u s e a n d t h e p e o p l e w h o l i ve o n i t t o e n s u r e i t s f u t u r e. T h i s ye a r a l s o h o n o r s t h e ex p e r t i s e o f o u r i n c r e d i b l e t e a m w i t h n e w a n d l i m i t e d r e l e a s e s c o m i n g o u t t h r o u g h o u t t h e ye a r. S t ay t u n e d.” T h e a n n i ve r s a r y r u m i s d i s t i l l e d i n c o p p e r p o t a n d c o l u m n s t i l l s , m a t u r e d i n A m e r i c a n w h i s key c a s k s a n d f i n i s h e d i n c h a r r e d B o u r b o n c a s ks m u c h l i ke t h e f a m o u s B l a c k B a r r e l. H o weve r, t h i s n e w ex p r e s s i o n i s b o t t l e d a t c a s k s t r e n g t h w i t h a 6 6 % A BV. T h i s n e w e d i t i o n t o t h e M o u nt G ay l i n e u p i s a d i s t i l l e r y exc l u s i ve. T h e s p e c i a l r e l e a s e o f a r o u n d 1, 5 0 0 b o t t l e s i s o n l y ava i l a b l e a t t h e M o u nt G ay D i s t i l l e r y a n d V i s i t o r C e nt e r i n B a r b a d o s . h t t p s: // w w w. m o u nt g ay r u m .c o m / CA P TA IN M O RG A N C a p t a i n M o r g a n w i l l u nve i l i t s n e w l a b e l t h i s m o n t h .

The new design builds on the Spice On campaign w h i c h c e l e b r a t e s t h e s p i c e o f C a p t a i n M o r g a n’s l i q u i d a n d ‘ s p i c e’ a s t h e i n d i v i d u a l i t y p e o p l e b r i n g t o s o c i a l s i t u a t i o n s . T h e n e w p a c k p u t s t h e q u a l i t y, f l avo r a n d m o s t i m p o r t a nt l y t h e s p i c e o f t h e l i q u i d a t t h e f o r e f r o nt o f t h e d e s i g n . T h e d e s i g n f e a t u r e s a b o l d c o l o r p a l et t e a n d t h e a d d i t i o n o f a d y n a m i c a n d ex p r e s s i ve g o l d b r u s h s t r o ke t h a t r e f l e c t s t h e golden spice and smoothness of the drink. Samori Gambrah, Global Brand Director of Captain Morgan, told Label & Labeling ‘This new pack design heroes the delicious spice of our liquid and character as a b r a n d. I t w i l l a l l o w u s t h e f l ex i b i l i t y we n e e d t o s h o w u p i n a d y n a m i c w ay i n o u r s p o n s o r s h i p s , l i ve eve n t s , c o l l a b o r a t i o n s , a n d p a c k a g i n g a r o u n d t h e w o r l d. T h i s l a u n c h c o m e s a t a n exc i t i n g t i m e o f t r a n s f o r m a t i o n f o r C a p t a i n M o r g a n , a s we evo l ve h o w we c o m m u n i c a t e w i t h o u r c o n s u m e r s .’ T h e n e w p a c k a l s o i n c l u d e s a r e f r e s h e d ve r s i o n o f t h e b r a n d ’s f a m o u s C a p t a i n i c o n , m a i nt a i n i n g r e c o g n i z a b i l i t y while allowing the liquid to shine through as the h e r o – r e i n f o r c i n g t h e b r a n d ’s e n d u r i n g s m o o t h a n d d e l i c i o u s t a s t e a m i d a n ex p l o s i o n o f f l avo r i n n ova t i o n s w i t h i n t h e s p i r i t s c a t e g o r y ove r r e c e n t ye a r s . h t t p s: // w w w.c a p t a i n m o r g a n .c o m / B R I X D ISTILLE R S Spirit Business repor ted that Australian rum producer B r i x D i s t i l l e r s i s a i m i n g t o r a i s e AU $15 m i l l i o n t o b u i l d a n e w d i s t i l l e r y i n S yd n ey. E s t a b l i s h e d i n 2 017, t h e p r e m i u m r u m b r a n d i s l o o k i n g t o ‘ r e i nve n t A u s t r a l i a n r u m c u l t u r e’, a s c o n s u m e r d e m a n d f o r premium rum increases. This new funding round will

be put towards the full construction of a new ‘state o f - t h e - a r t ’ r u m d i s t i l l e r y i n S yd n ey t h a t w i l l h o p e f u l l y see production capacity reach one million liters of r u m a n n u a l l y t o m e et ‘ s u r g i n g ’ l o c a l a n d i nt e r n a t i o n a l d e m a n d. B r i x D i s t i l l e r s c u r r e n t l y p r o d u c e s p r e m i u m r u m a t i t s d i s t i l l e r y i n S u r r y H i l l s , S yd n ey. I n t h e p a s t f o u r ye a r s t h e p r o d u c e r h a s s e e n i t s r eve n u e g r o w t h r a t e r e a c h 6 0 % p e r ye a r. B r i x W h i t e C a n e Spirit is craf ted in Surr y Hills from premium Australian molasses, sourced from the cane-fields o f Q u e e n s l a n d a n d N o r t h e r n NSW. B r i x a n n o u n c e d t h e i r s e c o n d S yd n ey a g e d B r i x r u m , T h e S e l e c t C a s k S e r i e s - Ta w ny F i n i s h Re l e a s e. T h i s h a n d c r a f t e d r u m h a s b e e n m a t u r e d i n Fr e n c h o a k c a s k s , s o u r c e d f r o m B r o ke n w o o d & T h o m a s W i n e s , t w o w o r l d - c l a s s w i n e r i e s i n t h e H u n t e r Va l l ey, NSW. h t t p s: // w w w. b r i xd i s t i l l e r s .c o m / K I R K a n d S W EENEY 3 B a d g e B eve r a g e C o r p o r a t i o n a n n o u n c e d t h e l a u n c h o f i t s K i r k a n d S w e e n ey G r a n Re s e r va Superior Rum barrel program. This program of fers a s p e c i a l o p p o r t u n i t y f o r t r a d e b u ye r s t o t a s t e K i r k a n d S w e e n ey G r a n Re s e r va S u p e r i o r R u m s a m p l e s f i n i s h e d i n a va r i et y o f c a s k i n f l u e n c e s , i n c l u d i n g , but not limited to bourbon, sauternes and sherr y b a r r e l s . Tr a d e a c c o u n t s c a n t h e n s e l e c t a c u s t o m b a r r e l - f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t exc l u s i ve l y t a i l o r e d f o r t h e i r c u s t o m e r s .“ We a r e t h r i l l e d t o l a u n c h t h i s b a r r e l p r o g r a m f o r K i r k a n d S w e e n ey, c o n s i d e r i n g i t i s o u r l a r g e s t g l o b a l b r a n d ,” s a i d A u g u s t S e b a s t i a n i , P r e s i d e n t o f 3 B a d g e B eve r a g e C o r p o r a t i o n . “ T h i s p r o g r a m r e f l e c t s t h e a d ve n t u r o u s s p i r i t o f t h i s l a b e l , a s w e l l a s o u r c o m m i t m e n t t o ke e p i n g up with demand, all while still of fering the ultrapremium, handcraf ted Dominican rum our clients a n d c o n s u m e r s h ave c o m e t o ex p e c t .” E a c h b o t t l e will feature a limited- edition gold neck made of s l e e k m e t a l t h a t p r o m i n e n t l y d i s p l ay s “ S i n g l e B a r r e l ” f o r d i f f e r e n t i a t i o n f r o m t h e ex i s t i n g G r a n Re s e r va Superior of fering. A custom-printed tag that includes t h e b a r r e l t y p e, f i n i s h t i m e, b o t t l e n u m b e r, a n d account name is also included with each purchased b o t t l e. A d d i t i o n a l l y, e a c h a c c o u n t w i l l r e c e i ve t h e barrel head from the barrel selection. Barrels will b e o f f e r e d o n l i m i t e d ava i l a b i l i t y. H a n d c r a f t e d i n t h e D o m i n i c a n Re p u b l i c , K i r k a n d S w e e n ey R u m a d h e r e s t o t h e ve r y s t r i c t r e g u l a t i o n s t o b e c a l l e d “ D o m i n i c a n R u m .” T h e p r o c e s s b e g i n s w i t h h a n d h a r ve s t e d , h i g h - q u a l i t y s u g a r c a n e t h a t i s p u r e. T h e by p r o d u c t o f t h e s u g a r c a n e, “ B l a c k s t r a p M o l a s s e s ,” i s t h e n c a r e f u l l y f e r m e n t e d a n d d i s t i l l e d. T h e r u m i s t h e n a g e d i n a va r i e t y o f A m e r i c a n a n d Fr e n c h o a k b a r r e l s , w i t h t h e d i s t i l l e r c o n d u c t i n g va r i o u s s t e p s of dumping, blending, and re -barreling through the ye a r s . T h e f i n a l b l e n d f o r K i r k a n d S w e e n ey G r a n Re s e r va S u p e r i o r i s a g e d o n ave r a g e b e t w e e n 6 a n d 2 5 ye a r s . T h e s e c o n d a r y b a r r e l f i n i s h t i m e w i l l va r y i n l e n g t h . h t t p s: // w w w. k i r k a n d s we e n ey r u m .c o m / s p i r i t s /r e s e r va - s u p e r i o r/

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 4 3

In A s s o c iat i o n W it h

Nex t 3 - Day Rum Cour se: S eptemb er 6 - 8 2023

T h e Rum U ni ve r s i t y ® i s p r o u d to a nn o un c e t h e date f o r i t s n ex t 3 - D ay Ru m C o u r s e, w hi c h w i ll b e of fe r e d at M o o ns hi n e U ni ve r s i t y ’s st ate of t h e a r t f ac i li t y i n Lo ui sv i ll e, K Y. T hi s c o ur s e i s d e s i g n e d f o r b ot h ex i st i n g a n d f ut ur e r um di st i ll e r s a n d b r a n d ow n e r s, t h e 3 - day wo r ks h o p c o m b i n e s t h e o r y a n d p r ac t i c e to p r ov i d e at te n d e e s w i t h a p r ac t i c a l, h a n ds - o n e du c at i o n o n a ll t hi n g s r um. Fr o m t h e f i n a n c i a l, m a r ket i n g, a n d r e g ul ato r y c o ns i d e r at i o ns to t h e di st i ll at i o n, a g i n g, a n d b l e n di n g p r o c e s s e s, eve r y st u d e nt w i ll l e ave t hi s c o ur s e w i t h a nu a n c e d un d e r st a n di n g of r um p r o du c t i o n, t h e s p i r i t s b us i n e s s, a n d h ow r um f i t s i nto t h e g l o ba l, e c o n o m i c l a n ds c a p e.

O f c o ur s e, yo u wo n’ t m i s s o ut o n a ny of t h e f un st u f f : yo u’ll g et to ex p l o r e t h e s c i e n c e of r um p r o du c t i o n w hi l e g et t i n g yo ur

D i d you mis s out o n t he last c our se?

D o n’t let it happ en again!

V isit g ot r um.c o m and si gn up to re c eive not i f ic at i o ns fo r f uture Rum Univer sit y ® C our se s.

Got R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 44 Got R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 4 4

The International Leaders in Rum Training and Consulting w w w. RumUniver si t y.co m

h a n ds di r t y di st i lli n g at o ur o n c a m p us f ac i li t i e s. We’ll a l s o ex p l o r e t h e hi sto r y, c ate g o r y st y l e s, a n d p r o du c t i o n m et h o ds f o r r um, as we ll as i t s m as h b i ll s, fe r m e nt i n g, di st i lli n g, a n d f i ni s hi n g p r o c e s s e s.

W i t h r um t ast i n g s a n d s e ns o r y t r ai ni n g s e s s i o ns s et up t h r o u g h o ut t h e c o ur s e, yo u’ll di s c ove r a va r i et y of r um ex p r e s s i o ns a n d st y l e s, a n d g et a fe e l f o r t h e ve r s at i li t y of t hi s d e li g ht f ul s p i r i t .

W h et h e r yo u’r e a s e as o n e d r um di st i ll e r o r n ew b i e to t h e b us i n e s s, t hi s c l as s i s f o r a nyo n e w h o h as o r i s p l a nni n g to o p e n a n d /o r o p e r ate a di st i ll e r y ; p r o du c t i o n te a m m e m b e r s (b l e n d e r s); a n d a nyo n e e l s e i nte r e ste d i n r ef i ni n g t h e i r k n ow l e d g e of r um p r o du c t i o n.

T hi s c l as s i s c o - t au g ht by Lui s a n d M a r g a r et Aya l a, C o - Fo un d e r s of T h e Ru m U n i ve r s i t y ® a n d G o t Ru m?

M a g a zi n e.

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 4 5 G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 4 5

6 - Day Dist iller Cour se, 2023 Schedule T h e Rum U ni ve r s i t y ® i s r e s p o ns i b l e f o r i n - p e r s o n te ac hi n g of t h e Ru m Cu r r i c u l u m of t h e 6 - D ay D i s t i l l e r C o u r s e of fe r e d by M o o ns hi n e U ni ve r s i t y at t h e i r st ate of t h e a r t f ac i li t y i n Lo ui sv i ll e, K Y. T h e 6 - D ay D i s t i l l e r C o u r s e i s d e s i g n e d n ot o n ly to g i ve t h e m o st c o m p r e h e ns i ve te c hni c a l t r ai ni n g a n d b us i n e s s m a n a g e m e nt e du c at i o n i n t h e i n dust r y, b ut a l s o to of fe r p a r t i c i p a nt s s o c i a l a n d n et wo r k i n g o p p o r t uni t i e s w i t h ot h e r p a r t i c i p a nt s, sup p li e r s, i n dust r y p r ofe s s i o n a l s a n d wo r l d - r e n ow n e d m aste r di st i ll e r s.

T h e Rum s e c t i o n of t h e 6 - D ay D i st i ll e r C o ur s e c ove r s t h e f o ll ow i n g to p i c s: • • • • • • • •

Rum d ef i ni t i o n (te c hni c a l, l e g a l, c h e m i c a l) A l c o h o l c o n g e n e r s, qu a nt i f i c at i o ns a n d di f fe r e nt i at i o ns S u g a r c a n e o r i g i n, c ult i vat i o n, h a r ve st a n d p r o c e s s i n g B us i n e s s a n d e c o n o m i c as p e c t s of t h e r um i n dust r y O r g a n o l e pt i c as s e s s m e nt s of r um v i a t ast i n g exe r c i s e s O ve r v i ew of fe r m e nt at i o n, di st i ll at i o n, a g i n g a n d b l e n di n g H a n ds - o n di st i ll at i o n e qui p m e nt ex p e r i e n c e Q& A To r e g i ste r o r to c h e c k f o r avai l a b i li t y, p l e as e v i s i t t h e i r we b s i te at w w w.m o o ns hi n e uni ve r s i t y.c o m. T h e s e a r e t h e 2 0 2 3 date s: • • • •

M a r c h 2 6 - 31, 2 0 2 3 M ay 21-2 6 , 2 0 2 3 J uly 2 3 -28 , 2 0 2 3 O c to b e r 2 2-27, 2 0 2 3

In Association With

Got R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 46 Got R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 4 6

Addi t ional Rum Univer sit y ® Mater ial Cl i c k o n t h e i m a g e s t o g o d i r e c t l y t o t h e o r d e r i n g p a g e.

I f t h a t d o e s n o t wo r k , c o py a n d p a s t e t h e l i n ks i n t o yo u r b r ow s e r : Th e Ru m L a b o r a t o r y:

h t t p s: // w w w. m a g c l o u d.c o m / b r o w s e / i s s u e / 214 0141

T h e Ru m B i o g r a p hy:

h t t p s: // w w w. m a g c l o u d.c o m / b r o w s e / i s s u e / 213 9 5 70

Ru m Ag i n g S c i e n c e Vo l1:

h t t p s: // w w w. m a g c l o u d.c o m / b r o w s e / i s s u e / 214 0 5 74

Fe r m e n t a t i o n Pr i m e r :

h t t p s: // w w w. m a g c l o u d.c o m / b r o w s e / i s s u e / 213 9 0 0 0

I d e a s T h a t Ch a n g e d T h e Ru m Wo r l d:

h t t p s: // w w w. m a g c l o u d.c o m / b r o w s e / i s s u e / 214 0 2 2 8

Ru m Ag i n g S c i e n c e Vo l2:

h t t p s: // w w w. m a g c l o u d.c o m / b r o w s e / i s s u e / 214 0 5 76

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 4 7 G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 4 7

H AWA II A N R U M T R AV ELS PA R T I

by M ike Kun et ka

S teve J ef f e r s o n, C o - f o u n d e r a n d C EO o f Ku l e a n a Ru m Wo r ks , H awa i ’i.

A f t e r a ye a r a n d a h a l f o f p l a n n i n g , o u r b i g f a m i l y va c a t i o n t o H a w a i i f i n a l l y h a p p e n e d l a s t D e c e m b e r. M y w i f e a n d I , o u r k i d s , grandkids, in-laws and outlaws spent time on the big island of Hawaii and on Oahu, b o t h o f w h i c h c o i n c i d e n t l y (o r n o t) h ave rum distilleries. Depending on who you a s k , H a w a i i h a s b e t w e e n e i g h t a n d e l eve n o f t h e w o r l d ’s t h i r t e e n c l i m a t e z o n e s . We s w a m w i t h 14 - f o o t M a n t a R ay s , h i ke d l u s h g r e e n f o r e s t s a n d s a w t w o vo l c a n o e s e r u p t i n g a t t h e s a m e t i m e. A f t e r a l l t h a t exc i t e m e n t , t h e f a m i l y d e c i d e d t o h ave s o m e b e a c h t i m e a n d I d r ove t o m e e t S t eve J e f f e r s o n , C o - Fo u n d e r a n d C EO o f Ku l e a n a R u m Wo r k s , a t t h e i r s u g a r c a n e f a r m n e a r U p o l u Po i n t . Ku l e a n a h a s f o r t y f i ve a c r e s o n t h e n o r t h e r n m o s t p o i n t o f t h e i s l a n d w h e r e t h ey a r e g r o w i n g f o r t y va r i e t i e s o f h e i r l o o m H a w a i i a n s u g a r c a n e.

This area has a rich histor y of growing sugarcane that dates b a c k t o t h e m i d 18 0 0 ’s .

I n A u g u s t o f 2 019, M a r g a r e t Ay a l a , P u b l i s h e r o f G o t R u m M a g a z i n e, i n t e r v i e w e d S t eve a s Ku l e a n a w a s j u s t s t a r t i n g . I t h o u g h t i t m i g h t b e t i m e f o r a f o l l o w - u p a r t i c l e. - M i ke Ku n e t k a

Got R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 48

M K : S teve J ef f e r s o n (S J) i s a l i f e l o n g a d ve nt u r e r a n d e nt r e p r e n e u r w h o t h i n ks , m ove s a n d t a l ks at a d i z z y i n g p a c e. H e s t u d i e d C r e at i ve Wr i t i n g at t h e U n i ve r s i t y o f C a l i f o r n i a at S a nt a B a r b a r a , r o d e a m ot o r c yc l e w i t h h i s s o o n - t o - b e w i f e t h r o u g h f o r t y s t ate s , g ot m a r r i e d a n d s a i l e d f r o m S a n Fr a n c i s c o t o M ex i c o t o H awa i i o n a 3 8 - f o o t s a i l b o at a n d t h e n s t a r te d a c o n s t r u c t i o n c o m p a ny. I a s ke d h i m h o w Ku l e a n a came about.

S J: A t t h e t i m e, we h a d l i t t l e k i d s a n d t h e h o u s i n g m a r ket l o o ke d l i ke i t wa s g o i n g t o p e a k a r o u n d 2 0 0 6 , 2 0 07.

We s o l d t h e l a s t t w o h o u s e s we b u i l t a n d b o u g ht a c at a m a r a n. We d e c i d e d we we r e g o i n g t o c r u i s e a r o u n d t h e C a r i b b e a n w i t h o u r o n e a n d t h r e e - ye a ro l d s w h i l e t h e h o u s i n g m a r ket c o o l e d o f f. We d i d n’ t wa nt t o b e s t u c k h e r e.

We a r e c r u i s i n g a r o u n d a n d o n e d ay we g o t o M a r t i n i q u e a n d t a s te s o m e R h u m

A g r i c o l e. We we r e b l o w n away. ‘ W h a t i s t h i s s t u f f ? W h e r e h a s t h i s b e e n o u r w h o l e l i f e? ’ T h ey g o, ‘ ye a i t ’s m a d e f r o m f r e s h s u g a r c a n e j u i c e.’ We a s k ‘ w hy d o n’ t we h ave a ny o f t h i s i n t h e US ? ’ ‘ We l l, yo u g u y s c a n’ t r e a l l y g r o w s u g a r c a n e. S e c o n d o f a l l, yo u g u y s a d d s u g a r, f l avo r s a n d c o l o r i n g a n d s t u f f. We t a ke i t a n d s e l l i t i n Fr a n c e a n d a l l ove r Eu r o p e i n s te a d.’

T h e w h o l e t i m e we a r e o n M a r t i n i q u e, we a r e t h i n k i n g t h i s i s j u s t l i ke H awa i i. P l a nt s a r e l i ke H awa i i. Pe o p l e a r e l i ke H awa i i. L a t i t u d e s a r e ve r y s i m i l a r. B o t h h a d h i s t o r i e s t h a t we r e t i e d t o s u g a r c a n e. B o t h eve n h a d vo l c a n o e s . T h e a n a l o g i e s we r e j u s t o bv i o u s . I l o o ke d a t my w i f e a n d s a i d we h ave t o m ove b a c k t o H awa i i a n d s t a r t a r u m f a c t o r y.

M K : I c a n’ t i m a g i n e t h e r e a r e a l o t o f w i ve s i n t h e wo r l d w h o s e h u s b a n d te l l s h e r ‘ H o n ey, we a r e g o i n g t o b u i l d a r u m d i s t i l l e r y ’ a n d t h ey w o u l d b e o k ay w i t h i t .

S J: We l l, s h e h e a r s t h i s we i r d s t u f f f r o m m e a l l t h e t i m e. Fo r h e r, i t wa s ye a , j u s t t h r o w i t o n

t h e l i s t . A t t h e s a m e t i m e, we a r e s a i l i n g a r o u n d looking for land to build a bed and breakfast.

B u t f o r s o m e r e a s o n, t h e r u m t h i n g t ot a l l y s t u c k .

We c a m e b a c k h e r e a n d s t a r te d l e a r n i n g h o w t o m a ke r u m , p l ay i n g a r o u n d w i t h a s t i l l w i t h o u r o r i g i n a l p a r t n e r s , C h r i s a n d L o r a S c h l a r b’. We s t a r te d by t r y i n g t o r e p l i c ate s u g a r c a n e j u i c e by m i x i n g s o m e m o l a s s e s i n wate r, a n d s o m e b r o w n s u g a r a n d s o m e w h i te s u g a r a n d we c a m e u p w i t h t h i s r e c i p e f o r w h at we t h o u g ht t a s te d l i ke s u g a r c a n e j u i c e. T h e n we l e a r n e d a b o u t t h i s g u y N o a L i n c o l n (p i c t u r e d a b ove), w h o wa s w o r k i n g o n h i s P h D o n t h e H awa i i a n Fi e l d S y s te m a n d h e h a s d i s c ove r e d a l l t h e s e h e i r l o o m va r i et i e s o f s u g a r c a n e. We a r e l i ke w h at ? H e g o e s ‘ ye a , t h e r e a r e 3 5 va r i et i e s o f H awa i i a n h e i r l o o m s u g a r c a n e.’ H e i s a s o i l s c i e nt i s t a n d h e t o o k DN A o f a l l t h e p l a nt s a n d r e a l i ze d t h at a l l f o r t y va r i et i e s o f t h e s u g a r c a n e h a d t h e s a m e DN A .

H e p i e c e d i t a l l t o g et h e r a n d g ot a P h D f r o m Stanford for figuring this out. When the original voya g i n g c a n o e s s h o we d u p h e r e a t h o u s a n d ye a r s a g o, s u g a r c a n e wa s o n e o f a b o u t t we nt y f i ve p l a nt s t h ey b r o u g ht w i t h t h e m.

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 4 9

N OT E: T h e Ku l e a n a l o g o i s a d r aw i n g o f t h at a n c i e nt voya g i n g c a n o e.

S J: T h ey h a d s o m e r e a l l y g o o d i d e a s a n d t h i s g r e at c u l t u r e a n d t h ey l a n d o n t h e i s l a n d. A r e t h ey H awa i i a n t h a t n i g ht ? N o, t h ey a r e Ta h i t i a n; t h ey s h o we d u p f r o m Ta h i t i. T h ey a r e p r o b a b l y exc i te d t o b e h e r e b e c a u s e t h ey d o n’ t k n o w w h e r e h e r e i s . T h ey t a ke t h e i r p l a nt s o u t o f t h e i r b o at a n d p u t t h e m i n t h e g r o u n d. T h ey h ave d o n e t h i s t h r o u g h o u t t h e e nt i r e Pa c i f i c .

H awa i i wa s t h e ve r y l a s t a r c h i p e l a g o t h at t h ey s et t l e d. Fo r 3 , 0 0 0 ye a r s t h ey h ave b e e n s a i l i n g a r o u n d, s et t l i n g a l l t h e s e i s l a n d s w i t h t h e i r p l a nt s a n d t h e i r c u l t u r e. T h ey a r e g o o d at i t .

T h ey d o n’ t h ave c o m p a s s e s t o g u i d e t h e m; t h ey d o t h i s by wa tc h i n g t h e o c e a n a n d t h e s t a r s .

T h ey s h o w u p a n d t a ke t h e i r p a s t w i t h t h e m a n d t h ey p u t i t i n t h e g r o u n d a n d t h i s i s t h e i r f u t u r e. T h at ’s l i te r a l l y p u t t i n g t h e i r c u l t u r e i n t h e g r o u n d. T h a t ’s a d ef i n i t i o n o f c u l t u r e. T h at i s w h at t h ey n e e d t o b e a p e o p l e a n d t h o s e a r e t h e i r r u l e s a n d t h a t i s h o w t h ey d o t h i n g s .

T h ey h ave c o m m i t te d t o t h i s p l a c e. T h at ’s t h e m o m e nt t h ey b e c a m e H awa i i a n. Fr o m t h o s e t wo o r t h r e e c a n e p l a nt s t h ey b r o u g ht w i t h t h e m , t h ey d eve l o p e d t h e s e 3 5 va r i et i e s . A s t h i n g s m u t a te, t h ey w o u l d s ay t h a t ’s c o o l a n d t h ey wo u l d p u t i t i n t h e g r o u n d. O h, t h at o n e i s p u r p l e, t h a t o n e h a s b l u e s t r i p e s , etc . T h ey d i d t h i s f o r 10 0 ’s o f ye a r s , p r o b a b l y a b o u t 8 0 0 o r 9 0 0 ye a r s . T h i s wa s h u n d r e d s o f ye a r s b ef o r e a s i n g l e Pa c i f i c c a n e wa s b r o u g ht t o t h e C a r i b b e a n.

Fo r u s , t h i s wa s t h e b e s t s t o r y eve r. We we r e g o i n g t o m a ke r u m A g r i c o l e a n d we j u s t s t u m b l e d a c r o s s t h e s e h e i r l o o m va r i et i e s o f s u g a r c a n e. T h i s i s awe s o m e. We g o t o t h i s l i t t l e b ot a n i c a l g a r d e n w h e r e N o a h a d d r o p p e d o f f h i s p l a nt s a n d g o t c u t t i n g s f r o m eve r y t h i n g a n d l i te r a l l y g r ew t h e m i n p o t s i n o u r ya r d f o r 6 m o nt h s . T h e n we l e a s e d a t w o - a c r e p l ot a n d p l a nte d t h at o u t a n d s t a r te d m a k i n g r u m. We used cuttings from that plot to star t the farm yo u s e e t o d ay.

M K : T h e Ku l e a n a f a r m c o n s i s t s o f a c r u s h i n g facility and sectioned plots, each growing a d i f f e r e nt va r i et y o f s u g a r c a n e. S teve ex p l a i n s t h at t h e a r r ay o f s o l a r p a n e l s n e a r by g e n e r ate s e n e r g y t o r u n t h e we l l p u m p t h a t i r r i g ate s t h e f i e l d eve r y d ay. T h e f a r m i s l o c a te d a t t h e Nor th tip of the island and the wind of f the Pa c i f i c i s i nte n s e, w h i c h ex p l a i n s w hy t h e r e i s a w i n d f a r m n ex t d o o r. I a s k S teve a b o u t t h e w i n d f a r m a n d u s e o f r e n ewa b l e e n e r g y.

S J: T h e e n e r g y j u s t g o e s b a c k i n t h e g r i d. I t i s i l l e g a l t o t r a n s p o r t a ny e n e r g y a c r o s s t h e p r o p e r t y. Eve n t h o u g h t h ey a r e m a k i n g a l l t h i s

Got R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 50

p o we r, we c a n’ t u s e a ny o f i t . T h e c o o l t h i n g I t h o u g ht a b o u t i s t h at we a r e h e r e t a k i n g c a r e o f t h e s e p l a nt s , m o w i n g a n d we e d i n g a n d w h ateve r, a n d I r e a l i ze i t i s t h e j o b o f eve r y p l a nt t o c o nve r t s u n l i g ht i nt o s u g a r. Eve r y p l a nt o n E a r t h d o e s t h e s a m e t h i n g. T h ey a r e a l l j u s t m a k i n g s u g a r. A s my k i d s w i l l a t te s t t o, eve r y l i f e f o r m o n t h e p l a n et n e e d s s u g a r t o l i ve. T h at ’s o u r s o u r c e o f e n e r g y. S o, t h e s e p l a nt s a r e j u s t s o l a r p a n e l s t h at a r e c o nve r t i n g t h i s r a d i at i o n e n e r g y f r o m t h e s u n i nt o s u g a r.

M K : S o, yo u h ave a f i e l d o f s o l a r p a n e l s?

S J: E x a c t l y.

A s yo u wa l k t h r o u g h t h e p r o p e r t y, yo u s e e c a n e p l a nt s i n a l l d i f f e r e nt s t a g e s o f g r o w t h.

We p a s s o n e s e c t i o n t h at wa s c u t j u s t d ay s a g o. T h o s e s t a l ks we r e c r u s h e d h e r e a t t h e f a r m , t h e j u i c e wa s ex t r a c te d a n d i t i s n o w f e r m e nt i n g at t h e d i s t i l l e r y. H a r ve s te d p l a nt s w i l l r e g r o w n ew s t a l ks a n d c a n b e h a r ve s te d s eve r a l t i m e s . N ew p l a nt s a r e g r o w n f r o m c u t t i n g s , n ot f r o m s e e d. C a n e s t a l ks a r e c u t i nt o f o u r- t o - s i x- i n c h s e c t i o n s , m a k i n g s u r e t h at e a c h c u t t i n g h a s s eve r a l n o d e s o n i t .

T h e n t h ey a r e p l a c e d h o r i zo nt a l l y i n t h e s o i l.

P l a nt a i t o n c a n e g r o we r s w o u l d s i m p l y d i g a d i tc h a n d b u r y w h o l e c a n e s t a l ks a n d n ew p l a nt s w o u l d g r o w.

M K : H o w l o n g d o e s i t d o e s i t t a ke t o g r o w s u g a r c a n e?

S J: I t s r o u g h l y a ye a r f r o m w h e n yo u c u t t h e m u nt i l t h ey g r o w b a c k . I t ’s a b o u t e i g hte e n t o t we nt y - f o u r m o nt h s w h e n yo u p l a nt t h e m .

O n c e t h e c a n e i s r e a d y, t h ey a r e c u t by h a n d o r by m e c h a n i c a l h a r ve s te r, d e p e n d i n g o n t h e s i ze a n d a c c e s s i b i l i t y o f t h e p l ot . We c u t t h e c a n e a n d b r i n g i t ove r a n d l o a d i t o n t h e c o nveyo r b e l t . T h e c o nveyo r b e l t d u m p s i t i nt o t h e f i r s t b ox t h at s h r e d s i t a n d t u r n s i t i nt o p i e c e s w i t h o u t t h e l e ave s . T h e n t h at g o e s u p t o t h e s e c o n d b ox a n d c o m e s d o w n i nt o t h e t h r e e - m i l l c r u s h e r, w h e r e i t s q u e e ze s a l l t h at juicy pulp and then the fresh juice comes out.

T h e b a g a s s e c o m e s o u t at t h e b ot t o m a n d we w i l l o f te n r e - r u n i t b e c a u s e i t s t i l l h a s s o m e juice in it.

N o w t h e r a c e i s o n. T h e g o a l i s t o t a ke t h e 10 0 0 - l i te r t ote o f f r e s h s u g a r c a n e j u i c e e i g hte e n m i l e s d o w n t h e c o a s t t o t h e d i s t i l l e r y i n Wa i m e a b ef o r e t h e n at u r a l s u g a r c a n e ye a s t s a n d b a c te r i a s t a r t f e r m e nt i n g t h e j u i c e.

S J: Fr e s h s u g a r c a n e j u i c e i s t h e u n d i s p u te d, e l i x i r o f l i f e. B e c a u s e o f t h i s , w i l d ye a s t a n d a l l b a c te r i a wa nt t o f e r m e nt t h i s s t u f f. T h e

s e c o n d i t g et s t u r n e d i nt o j u i c e, b i o l o g i c a l wa r f a r e b et we e n a ny n u m b e r o f m i c r o o r g a n i s m s i m m e d i ate l y b e g i n s . I t ’s r e a l l y d i f f i c u l t t o h ave yo u r p a r t i c u l a r ye a s t b e t h e w i n n e r. T h e s e c r et t o b e i n g a n A g r i c o l e r u m m a ke r i s b e i n g a b l e t o t r e at t h e s u g a r c a n e j u i c e p r o p e r l y. A g r i c o l e s va r y i n q u a l i t y b e c a u s e t h e h a n d l i n g o f t h e j u i c e i s d o n e d i f f e r e nt l y d e p e n d i n g o n w h o i s making it.

M K : H o w d o yo u g et yo u r ye a s t t o w i n?

S J: We t h o u g ht t h a t wa s g o i n g t o b e a p i e c e o f c a ke. W h at we d i d n’ t r e a l i ze i s t h a t eve r y ot h e r m i c r o b e o n t h e p l a n et a l s o wa nt s t o e a t i t . O n e d ay i t wo u l d l o o k b e a u t i f u l a n d t h e n a c o u p l e o f d ay s l ate r we w o u l d h ave f e r m e nte r s b l o w u p. T h e t o p b l ew o f f a n d we w o u l d c o m e i n t h e n ex t m o r n i n g a n d t h e r e w o u l d b e t h i s i n d u s t r i a l g r a d e l u b r i c a nt o n t h e f l o o r. I t wa s s o s l i p p e r y ; we c o u l d h ave h a d a n i c e - s k a t i n g r i n k . B a c te r i a g ot h o l d a n d b a c te r i a p r o p a g a te s te n t i m e s f a s te r t h a n ye a s t a n d i t t o t a l l y c r o w d e d o u t t h e ye a s t i nt o t h i s w i l d - a s s b a c te r i a c r e a t i o n t h at m a d e s l i m e. We a r e l i ke h o w a r e we g o i n g t o d o t h i s? Eve r y o t h e r d i s t i l l e r y p a s te u r i ze s t h e i r wa s h t o k i l l a l l t h e m i c r o b e s b ef o r e t h ey p i tc h i n t h e i r ye a s t . T h ey g et t o s t a r t w i t h t h i s t ot a l l y

s te r i l e t h i n g a n d t h e n t h ey a d d t h e i r ye a s t a n d i t ’s a p i e c e o f c a ke. T h at ’s t h e d i f f i c u l t y o f m a k i n g r u m A g r i c o l e. Yo u a r e m a k i n g i t f r o m f r e s h j u i c e a n d i t ’s g ot t o b e f l aw l e s s . T h a t ’s s u p e r t r i c k y. S o, we h i r e d G i l e s f r o m M a r t i n i q u e t o c o m e ove r.

T h at i s w h e n S teve b r o u g ht i n G i l e s C o g n i e r, a f o r m e r M a s te r D i s t i l l e r at D i s t i l l e r i e L a M a u ny a n d Tr o i s R i v i è r e s . G i l e s h a d s p e nt t h i r t y ye a r s m a k i n g w o r l d c l a s s , awa r d w i n n i n g R h u m A g r i c o l e s o n M a r t i n i q u e b ef o r e b e c o m i n g a n i n d e p e n d e nt c o n s u l t a nt . W i t h h i s ex p e r i e n c e, h e wa s a b l e t o w o r k w i t h t h e Ku l e a n a s t a f f t o r ef i n e t h e i r te c h n i q u e s , r e s u l t i n g i n r e l i a b l e a n d q u a l i t y f e r m e nt at i o n s .

M K : T h e n ex t s t o p o n my t o u r i s t h e d i s t i l l e r y.

We m a ke t h e t we nt y f i ve - m i n u te d r i ve d o w n the coast to a small industrial park. In a former f o o d wa r e h o u s e, Ku l e a n a h a s t h e i r o f f i c e, b ot t l i n g p l a nt , a g i n g f a c i l i t y a n d d i s t i l l e r y. T h e f o o d c o o l e r f r o m t h e p r ev i o u s te n a nt h a s b e e n c o nve r te d i nt o t h e i r o f f i c e /c o n f e r e n c e r o o m .

S J: Ye a , we j u s t t o o k a b u n c h o f S aw z a l l s a n d t u r n e d i t i nt o o u r o f f i c e s p a c e. C o o l, h u h?

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 5 1

Got Got Rum R um?? March March 220022233 -- 52 52

T h e b u i l d i n g i s d i v i d e d i n h a l f, w i t h t h e o f f i c e, storage and shipping on one side and the d i s t i l l e r y o n t h e o t h e r. O n o u r way t o t h e s t i l l s i n t h e b a c k c o r n e r, we p a s s t h r e e 1,0 0 0 - l i te r, te m p e r at u r e - c o nt r o l l e d L et i n a f e r m e nte r s . O n e i s b u b b l i n g away w i t h c a n e j u i c e t h a t wa s j u s t s q u e e ze d t h r e e d ay s a g o. O n c e f e r m e nt a t i o n i s f i n i s h e d a n d t h e wa s h h a s r e a c h e d a n A BV o f 8 t o 9 % , i t i s m ove d t o t h e s t i l l.

U p t o t h i s p o i nt , Ku l e a n a h a s b e e n d i s t i l l i n g o n a 6 0 0 - l i te r c o p p e r A l e m b i c s t i l l f r o m I b e r i a n C o p p e r i n Po r t u g a l. I t l o o ks ve r y s i m i l a r t o t h e s t i l l I s aw at M o nt a nya D i s t i l l e r s i n C r e s te d B u t te, C o l o r a d o s eve r a l ye a r s a g o. I t m i g ht n ot h ave t h e b r i c k b a s e, b u t t h e s h a p e d ef i n i te l y r e m i n d s m e o f a c o g n a c s t i l l.

M K : W h at m a d e yo u d e c i d e o n t h i s t y p e o f s t i l l?

S J: We l l, w h at I d i d wa s r e s e a r c h d i s t i l l a t i o n a n d r e a l i ze d t h i s wa s t h e m et h o d we wa nte d t o u s e. I h a d s e e n s o m e s t i l l s t h a t we r e s i m i l a r a n d t h e n I j u s t s t a r te d c a l l i n g m a n u f a c t u r e r s .

T h i s o n e wa s h a n d b u i l t i n Po r t u g a l f o r u s . I wa s a l i t t l e n e r vo u s . T h ey te l l yo u h o w m u c h a n d I a m l i ke w h a t i f I g i ve yo u h a l f n o w a n d h a l f w h e n yo u s h i p i t ? A n d t h ey a r e l i ke ‘d o w h ateve r yo u wa nt a n d w h e n yo u g i ve u s a l l t h e m o n ey we w i l l g et s t a r te d.’ S o, we b a s i c a l l y j u s t w i r e d t h e m t h e m o n ey. T h i s i s w h e n we we r e s t a r t i n g o u t a n d eve r y d o l l a r wa s s o d e a r.

N ex t t o t h e s t i l l i s a t a b l e c ove r e d w i t h c o l l e c t i o n j a r s t h a t a r e u s e d t o m a ke t h e c u t s .

S J: T h e s e a r e t h e l a s t c u t s h e r e. We s t a r te d at 73% A BV a n d e n d e d a t 4 6 .7 % . A t s o m e p o i nt we a r e g o i n g t o s ave w h a t we c a l l g o o d s e c o n d s . H e r e, t h e d i s t i l l e r i s e a r m a r k i n g these as hear ts. He does his thing and he s ay s t h e s e a r e h e a r t s , h e a r t s , g o o d h e a r t s , good seconds, good seconds, good seconds.

T h at i s c o g n a c ve r n a c u l a r. I n t h e r e s t o f t h e d i s t i l l i n g wo r l d, t h e s e w o u l d a l l b e h e a r t s , b u t t h e c o g n a c p e o p l e h ave t h i s c o n c e pt o f g o o d seconds where it is still as tasty as hear ts but it has more of those fatty acids, longer fatty a c i d c h a i n s t h a t d o m a r ve l o u s t h i n g s i n b a r r e l s .

T h ey b r e a k a p a r t , m a ke m o r e f l avo r, g i ve i t m o r e m o u t h f e e l a n d s t u f f l i ke t h a t . W h e n yo u m i x i t w i t h t h e l i g hte r r u m s , i t ’s c r a z y. I t ’s l i ke a d d i n g b u t te r. Yo u g et a l l t h i s f a t t y d e l i c i o u s c r a z y f l avo r s . Yo u d o n’ t n e e d a t o n o f i t . Fo r o u r w h i te r u m , i t i s a l l t h e h e a r t s p l u s a c e r t a i n n u m b e r o f g o o d s e c o n d s a n d we b l e n d i t eve r y t i m e a n d s c o r e i t a g a i n s t o u r r ef e r e n c e r u m t o m a ke s u r e i t ’s a s c l o s e t o ex a c t a s p o s s i b l e.

T h e n we t a ke t h e r e s t a n d u s e t h e m i n o u r aging program.

A c r o s s f r o m t h i s s t i l l, Ku l e a n a h a s i n s t a l l e d a n ew 2 ,0 0 0 - l i te r hy b r i d s t i l l f r o m Rev i va l S t i l l w o r ks i n B r i t i s h C o l u m b i a . S t a f f m e m b e r s f r o m b ot h Ku l e a n a a n d Rev i va l w i l l b e o n h a n d t h i s m o nt h f o r t h e i n i t i a l s t a r t u p. I t i s o bv i o u s t h at S teve i s e a g e r t o f i r e i t u p.

S J: E a c h o n e o f t h e i r s t i l l s i s c o m p l ete l y c u s t o m m a d e. We t o l d t h e m ex a c t l y w h at we wa nte d. I a m s u r e t h e r e a r e t h i n g s t h at a r e s t a n d a r d f o r Rev i va l a n d t h at t h ey d o we l l, b u t t h i s o n e wa s s p e c i f i c a l l y d e s i g n e d f o r a b u n c h o f s t u f f t h at we wa nte d. We h ave a b e e r p ot f o u r t i m e s a s b i g, s o i t i s m o r e ef f i c i e nt .

I t ’s a p ot s t i l l, s o we c a n d o t h e c u t s , w h i c h i s i m p o r t a nt . We h ave o n e, t w o, t h r e e, f o u r, f i ve p l ate s t h at we c a n u s e t o m a ke a d j u s t m e nt s .

T h e l e nt i l o n t h e ot h e r s t i l l i s wate r c o o l e d, w h i c h i s r e a l l y h a r d t o a d j u s t . We l i te r a l l y h ave t o r u n ove r t o t h e s i n k a n d a d j u s t t h e f a u c et . ‘ H o w ’s t h at ? ’, a d j u s t s o m e m o r e, ‘ h o w ’s t h at ? ’ N o w we h ave f i ve p l ate s t h at we c a n o p e n o r c l o s e t o c o nt r o l t h at . We h ave a l r e a d y s et o u r d i s t i l l at i o n c u r ve, i t ’s w h at A BV r u n s o u t a n d h o w l o n g i t r u n s at a c e r t a i n A BV a n d w h e n i t d r o p s o f f. We a l r e a d y k n o w w h at o u r f l avo r c u r ve l o o ks l i ke. W h at we w i l l d o i s j u s t r u n i t a n d m e s s a r o u n d w i t h i t t o g et t h at c u r ve. I f t h e A BV i s r e a l l y h i g h, we j u s t o p e n i t u p. I f t h e A BV i s t o o l o w, we c l o s e i t d o w n.

T h e n ex t p a r t n e r t o j o i n t h e Ku l e a n a te a m wa s D av i d Pe r k i n s . Pe r k i n s s t a r te d t h e H i g h We s t D i s t i l l e r y i n Pa r k C i t y, U t a h i n 2 0 0 6 . H e w o n n u m e r o u s awa r d s f o r h i s w h i s k i e s w h i c h h e c r e ate d i n U t a h by b l e n d i n g s o u r c e d s p i r i t s f r o m va r i o u s l a r g e d i s t i l l e r i e s w i t h w h i s key t h at h e m a d e.

S J: D av i d Pe r k i n s h e a r d w h at we we r e d o i n g a n d h e c a m e ove r. We a r e l i ke s u p e r e m b a r r a s s e d yo u k n o w, l i ke Fr a n k S i n at r a i s l i s te n i n g t o yo u s i n g i n yo u r s h o we r. I n o u r b u s i n e s s p l a n, we s a i d we we r e g o i n g t o d o w i t h r u m w h at H i g h We s t d i d w i t h w h i s key.

O n e o f t h e e a r l y i nve s t o r s i n H i g h We s t s aw t h i s p i tc h a n d s a i d ‘ I a m g o i n g t o t a l k t o t h e H i g h We s t g u y ’ b e c a u s e h e k n o w s h i m. T h e n D av i d f l i e s ove r a n d s c r u t i n i ze s u s a n d t h e n h e j o i n s u s . ‘ Ye a , t h e s e g u y s a r e o nt o s o m et h i n g g o o d.’ S o, D av i d j o i n s a n d h e g et s a b u n c h o f H i g h We s t i nve s t o r s t o j o i n. N o w h e h e l p s w i t h the blending program, which is his genius. His p a l et te i s s h o c k i n g. Yo u c a n p u t f o r t y r u m s t o g et h e r, t w o ye a r s a p a r t , a n d yo u p u t o n e s t i n ke r i n t h e r e a n d h e w i l l i d e nt i f y i t t h e s a m e way h e d i d t w o ye a r s a g o. T h e ex a c t s a m e way, s a m e r e m a r ks , s a m e c r i t i c i s m s .

M K : Ye a r s a g o, at a r u m s e m i n a r, I h e a r d a s p e a ke r s u m u p t h e a r t o f b l e n d i n g w i t h t h e o l d

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 5 3

a d a g e “ t h e w h o l e s h o u l d b e g r e a te r t h a n t h e s u m o f t h e p a r t s .” I m e nt i o n t h i s t o S teve.

S J: Ye s , ex a c t l y. T h a t ’s ex a c t l y w h a t o u r H u i H u i m e a n s . H u i H u i i s o u r l i g ht c o c k t a i l r u m b l e n d. H u i i n H awa i i a n m e a n s a g r o u p o f t h i n g s . H u i H u i m e a n s a g r o u p o f t h i n g s t h at i s b et te r b e c a u s e t h ey a r e t o g et h e r a n d n ot by t h e m s e l ve s . Yo u a r e ex a c t l y r i g ht . H u i H u i i s o n e o f t h e h i g h e s t r a te d r u m s i n t h e wo r l d, by BT I , B eve r a g e Ta s t i n g I n s t i t u te. We s t a r t w i t h a 9 4% A BV r u m t h a t we g et f r o m Pa p u a N ew G u i n e a . We a r e t h e o n l y o n e s w h o g et r u m f r o m t h e r e. A t f i r s t , t h ey d i d n’ t eve n k n o w h o w t o s h i p i t t o u s . T h ey a r e l i ke, ‘ w h a t ? ’ B u t we t r i e d i t a n d i t wa s a m a z i n g . I t ’s a r e a l l y c l e a n, d e l i c i o u s l i g ht r u m a n d Pa p u a N ew G u i n e a i s w h e r e s u g a r c a n e s t a r te d o n E a r t h, s o i t i s a g r e at s t o r y. We g et r u m f r o m t h e m a n d a d d o u r H awa i i a n A g r i c o l e t o g i ve i t f l avo r. T h e n we g et a little Rhum Agricole from Mar tinique because M a r t i n i q u e h a s t h i s g r e a t A g r i c o l e. I t ’s a l i t t l e bit more pepper y; it has this spiciness. Our A g r i c o l e i s m o r e j u i c y, f r u i t y a n d t h ey h ave t h i s p e p p e r y s t u f f a n d i t j u s t m a ke s t h i s b e a u t i f u l cocktail rum.

Got R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 54

Fo r o u r H awa i i a n Ru m A g r i c o l e, we wa nte d a n exc e pt i o n a l l y f l avo r f u l r u m , p e r f e c t f o r s i p p i n g n e at o r i n w o r l d - c l a s s c o c k t a i l s . We m a ke i t f r o m t h e f r e s h j u i c e o f t h e e s t ate - g r o w n H awa i i a n h e i r l o o m s u g a r c a n e t h at yo u s aw o n o u r f a r m. T h e s u g a r c a n e j u i c e i s f e r m e nte d u s i n g a s p e c i a l ye a s t a n d d i s t i l l e d i n t h at h a n d m a d e c o p p e r p ot s t i l l t o 6 0 -74% A BV. T h i s s l o w, c a r ef u l p r o c e s s m a ke s d e l i c i o u s a n d f l avo r f u l r u m t h at s h o wc a s e s t h e m a g n i f i c e n c e o f t h e kō (s u g a r c a n e).

W i n e Ent h u s i a s t c a l l e d Ku l e a n a’s A g r i c o l e a “ To p 10 0 S p i r i t ”. B eve r a g e Ta s t i n g I n s t i t u te d e s c r i b e d i t a s “ a f r e s h a n d f r u i t y Fr e s h C a n e J u i c e Ru m w i t h g r e at b a l a n c e a n d l e n g t h.”

S J: N a n e a m e a n s ‘o f a b s o r b i n g i nte r e s t , f a s c i n at i n g, e n j oya b l e.’ I t e s p e c i a l l y m e a n s ‘ t o h ave a g o o d t i m e.’ We wa nte d a b e a u t i f u l a g e d c o c k t a i l r u m , a r u m t h at s h o w s p e o p l e w h at a n a g e d r u m i s s u p p o s e d t o t a s te l i ke, a r u m w i t h o u t a r t i f i c i a l c o l o r s , f l avo r s o r s u g a r s . We wa nte d a r u m t h at yo u c a n m a ke O l d Fa s h i o n s w i t h o r w h ateve r c o c k t a i l o r s i p i t , b e c a u s e i t i s s o d e l i c i o u s . We c h o s e f o r i t s b a s e a b e a u t i f u l m o l a s s e s - b a s e d r u m f r o m G u ate m a l a ,

d i s t i l l e d t o 9 0 - 9 4% A BV a n d a g e d i n B o u r b o n b a r r e l s f o r t wo ye a r s . To b u i l d i t s d e pt h a n d f l avo r, we b l e n d e d i n o u r o w n s u p e r- f l avo r f u l, a g e d H awa i i a n Ru m A g r i c o l e, m a d e f r o m f r e s h s u g a r c a n e j u i c e. We a l s o a d d a r i c h, m o l a s s e s b a s e d r u m f r o m Ve n e zu e l a d i s t i l l e d t o 8 5% A BV a n d a g e d 2 t o 8 ye a r s i n ex- B o u r b o n b a r r e l s .

To i n c r e a s e N a n e a’s d y n a m i c r a n g e a n d m a ke i t s i n g, we t h e n a d d t w o m o l a s s e s - b a s e d r u m s , a 3 - ye a r- o l d f r o m Tr i n i d a d a n d a 5 - ye a r- o l d f r o m El S a l va d o r.

H ō k ū l e i i s t h e n a m e o f a c o n s te l l a t i o n o f s t a r s f o r m i n g a l e i, w h i c h m a r ks t h e m i d d l e o f t h e n i g ht s k y. We wa nte d t o c o m e u p w i t h a s p i r i t t h at s h o w s p e o p l e t h a t r u m c a n b e a s g o o d o r b et te r t h a n a ny s p i r i t t h ey h ave eve r h a d. S o t h at ’s h u g e. Let ’s g o s t r a i g ht f o r t h e t o p. Yo u a r e t h i n k i n g o f Pa p py o r S t a g o r E x t r a A ñ e j o Te q u i l a s , t h e s e g r e a t b i g s i p p i n g m o n s te r s . We c r e ate d a b a s e w i t h f o u r m o l a s s e s r u m s f r o m Pa n a m a , N i c a r a g u a , B a r b a d o s , a n d Ve n e zu e l a .

E a c h wa s d i s t i l l e d t o 8 5% - 9 4% A BV a n d a g e d 2- 3 ye a r s , 3 - 8 ye a r s , 5 - 8 ye a r s , a n d 8 ye a r s , r e s p e c t i ve l y. T h e n we a d d e d l aye r s o f d e pt h a n d f l avo r by b l e n d i n g i n o u r ve r y o w n a g e d H awa i i a n Ru m A g r i c o l e a n d a 15 - ye a r a g e d rum made from molasses in Barbados, distilled t o 9 0 % - 9 4% A BV. To p u t H ō k ū l e i i n t h e u p p e r e c h e l o n o f s p i r i t s , we t h e n a d d c o m p l ex i t y a n d i nt r i g u e w i t h a m o l a s s e s - b a s e d r u m f r o m Tr i n i d a d, d i s t i l l e d t o 9 0 % - 9 4% A BV a n d a g e d 18 ye a r s .

I n a d d i t i o n t o t h e f o u r c o r e p r o d u c t s a b ove, Ku l e a n a d o e s S p e c i a l Re l e a s e s a n d B a r r e l Fi n i s h e d Re l e a s e s . W h i l e s o u r c i n g r u m s f o r t h e i r b l e n d s , Ku l e a n a w i l l o c c a s i o n a l l y c o m e a c r o s s ve r y s p e c i a l r u m s t h a t a r e o n l y ava i l a b l e i n vo l u m e s t h a t a r e t o o s m a l l t o b e u s e d i n a b l e n d. Re c e nt l y t h ey h a p p e n e d u p o n a we at h e r e d a n d d u s t y b a r r e l o f J a m a i c a n r u m t h at h a d b e e n s i t t i n g f o r m o r e t h a n 11 ye a r s .

T h e l i q u i d i n s i d e wa s s t u n n i n g l y b e a u t i f u l, a J a m a i c a n f u n k y h o g o t r a n s f o r m e d ove r a d e c a d e i nt o a s u p e r- s i p p e r. T h ey b o u g ht t h e b a r r e l, f i l l e d 18 8 b o t t l e s a n d J a m a i c a 11 b e c a m e t h e i r f i r s t S p e c i a l Re l e a s e. T h e i r B a r r e l Fi n i s h e d Re l e a s e s h ave i n c l u d e d a C o g n a c barrel-aged Nanea and upcoming barrel-aged ve r s i o n s o f t h e i r H awa i i a n Ru m A g r i c o l e.

T h e n i g ht b ef o r e my t o u r o f t h e d i s t i l l e r y, my w i f e, d a u g hte r a n d I h a d a g r e a t s u s h i d i n n e r at S a n s e i i n t h e Q u e e n s’ M a r ket p l a c e i n Wa i ko l o a . C o i n c i d e nt l y (o r n o t) t h e r e s t a u r a nt wa s n ex t d o o r t o t h e Ku l e a n a Ru m S h a c k , a 3 , 0 0 0 s q u a r e f o o t r e s t a u r a nt , b a r a n d r u m t a s t i n g c e nte r. I c o nv i n c e d t h e f a m i l y t h a t we s h o u l d h ave s o m e d r i n ks a n d M a l a s a d a s f o r d e s s e r t . T h e M a l a s a d a s ( H awa i i a n d o n u t s)

c a m e w i t h t h r e e d i p p i n g s a u c e s: l i l i ko i c u r d, h a u p i a c o c o n u t c r e a m a n d b a n a n a s f o s te r, e a c h m a d e w i t h a d i f f e r e nt Ku l e a n a r u m. To g o w i t h t h e s we et s , we h a d Ru m O l d Fa s h i o n s a n d t h e o b l i g at o r y M a i Ta i s . T h e p l a c e wa s f u n, t h e f o o d wa s g o o d, t h e d r i n ks we r e g r e at a n d t h e s e r v i c e wa s a m a z i n g. O u r wa i te r, C a m e r o n wa s at te nt i ve a n d k n o w l e d g e a b l e. H e wa s e nt h u s i a s t i c , b u t n ot ove r t h e t o p.

M K : We h a d a g r e at t i m e l a s t n i g ht at t h e Ru m S h a c k . I f we h ave b r ew p u b s , I s e e n o r e a s o n we c a n’ t h ave r u m p u b s . W h at we r e yo u r g o a l s i s c r e at i n g t h e Ru m S h a c k ?

S J: O u r i nte nt i o n s f o r t h e Ru m S h a c k a r e t h r e e - f o l d. O n e, we d ef i n i te l y wa nte d t o c a s t a r e a l l y w i d e f i s h i n g n et f o r p e o p l e t h at h ave n o i d e a t h at t h ey a r e c o m i n g i nt o a r u m p l a c e t o l e a r n a b o u t a r u m d i s t i l l e r y. T h ey j u s t h e a r d t h at t h e f o o d i s g r e at , eve n b et te r t h at t h e c o c k t a i l s a r e g o o d, a n d t h ey d e c i d e t o c o m e i n a n d e n j oy t h e m s e l ve s . T h at ’s n u m b e r o n e, g r e at m a r ket i n g. I f we c a n b r e a k eve n w i t h t h at , g r e at , we a r e w i n n i n g. Tw o, we wa nte d t o s h o w h o w d y n a m i c a n d c o m p r e h e n s i ve r u m c a n b e.

We m a ke Ru m O l d Fa s h i o n s . We m a ke a l l k i n d s o f s t u f f w i t h r u m t h at p e o p l e w o u l d n o r m a l l y u s e a n ot h e r s p i r i t . We ex p e c t p e o p l e t o p o o p o o i t a n d t h ey t r y i t a n d w o w, t h at ’s r e a l l y g o o d. T h e n yo u te l l t h e m t h at n ot o n l y wa s t h at O l d Fa s h i o n m a d e w i t h r u m , b u t w i t h o n e t h i r d w h i te r u m a n d t w o t h i r d s a g e d r u m. We u s e a s p l i t b a s e, o n e t h i r d H u i H u i a n d t w o t h i r d s N a n e a . I t t a s te s g r e at . Pe o p l e a r e l i ke w h a t ?

We wa nt t h at m o m e nt . We j u s t wa nt p e o p l e t o l ove c o c k t a i l s , b e c a u s e i f t h ey l i ke c o c k t a i l s , t h ey w i l l r e a l i ze h o w g r e at r u m i s . T h r e e, we wa nte d i t t o b e a te s t b e d f o r a l l t h e ot h e r c o c k t a i l p r o g r a m s o n t h e i s l a n d, t o s h o w t h at yo u c a n d o t h at w i t h r u m a n d m ay b e eve n l i ke i t m o r e. I f yo u wa nt yo u r N e g r o n i t o b e m o r e i nte r e s t i n g, p u t i n r u m. P u t i n a s p l i t b a s e o f r u m . We d o a m a r t i n i w i t h n ot o n l y r u m , b u t r u m A g r i c o l e, w h i c h i s a r g u a b l y t h e m o s t f avo r a b l e s p i r i t o n t h e m a r ket . We h ave t h e A g r i c o l e m a r t i n i s a n d i t ’s l i ke, I d i d n’ t k n o w yo u c o u l d d o t h at . We wa nt t o b u i l d a m b a s s a d o r s , t h at g o h o m e a n d te l l t h e i r f r i e n d s . T h at i s b et te r t h a n t r y i n g t o b u y a b i l l b o a r d i n N ew J e r s ey t o g et a b a r te n d e r o r s t o r e t o c a r r y o u r r u m. We wa nt t o g et p e o p l e t o s ay ‘ I we nt t o H awa i i a n d t r i e d t h i s a m a z i n g s t u f f a n d d i d yo u k n o w t h at yo u c a n m a ke a n O l d Fa s h i o n w i t h r u m? ’ A t t h e e n d o f t h e d ay, we a r e d eve l o p i n g c o nte nt t o m a ke a l l t h e ot h e r c o c k t a i l p r o g r a m s , w h et h e r t h ey a r e o n H awa i i o r a ny w h e r e e l s e, b et te r.

We wa nt t o g i ve t h e m s o m et h i n g s o t h at t h e i r p r o g r a m i s b et te r t h a n i t wa s b ef o r e. I f we d o t h at , we h ave s u c c e e d e d. M y g o a l i s t o t u r n p e o p l e i nt o a m b a s s a d o r s . I wa nt p e o p l e t o g o

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 5 5

a n d s ay d i d yo u k n o w yo u c o u l d d o t h i s?

S teve a n d c o m p a ny a r e i n t h e p r o c e s s o f d e s i g n i n g a n ew d i s t i l l e r y - v i s i t o r c e nte r at t h e c a n e f a r m . T h i s w i l l a l l o w Ku l e a n a t o t r u l y g o f r o m d i r t t o g l a s s o n t h e s a m e p r o p e r t y. T h ey a r e c u r r e nt l y w o r k i n g w i t h c e l e b r a te d a r c h i te c t G r e g Wa r n e r, w h o s e p r ev i o u s p r o j e c t s i n c l u d e t h e Q u i nte s s a W i n e r y i n N a p a Va l l ey. I n a d d i t i o n t o b e i n g a m o d e r n A g r i c o l e d i s t i l l e r y, t h e n ew f a c i l i t y w i l l o f f e r v i s i t o r s a p r e m i u m r u m t a s t i n g ex p e r i e n c e a n d a s p e c t a c u l a r v i ew o f t h e Pa c i f i c O c e a n a n d t h e i s l a n d o f M a u i.

S teve i s t h i r d g e n e r a t i o n, b u t s t i l l n o t c o n s i d e r e d a n a t i ve. B u t t h e r e i s a w o r d, k a m aʻā i n a , w h i c h m e a n s o f t h e l a n d, w h i c h m e a n s yo u we r e b o r n t h e r e. N a t i ve o r n ot , S teve i s p a s s i o n a te a b o u t H awa i i a n c u l t u r e, H awa i i a n va l u e s a n d i n c o r p o r a t i n g t h o s e i n h i s business.

S J: T h e wo r d Ku l e a n a , t h a t ’s o u r n a m e. I f yo u l o o k i n t h e d i c t i o n a r y, i t m e a n s r e s p o n s i b i l i t y.

B u t i t d o e s n’ t j u s t m e a n r e s p o n s i b i l i t y, t h at ’s j u s t a We s te r n t r a n s l a t i o n. We o n l y h ave t h i r te e n l et te r s i n t h e H awa i i a n a l p h a b et , f i ve

Got R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 56

o f t h e m a r e vo we l s a n d e i g ht a r e c o n s o n a nt s .

T h e b ot t o m l i n e i s t h at m a ny H awa i i a n wo r d s a r e va l u e s , t h ey a r e c o n c e pt s , n ot j u s t wo r d s .

Ku l e a n a i s t h e r i g ht s a n d t h e p r i v i l e g e s yo u g et i f yo u a r e w i l l i n g t o b e r e s p o n s i b l e. Eve r y t h i n g i n t h e H awa i i a n c u l t u r e h a s a n a s s o c i ate d Ku l e a n a t h at c o m e s w i t h i t . Eve r y t h i n g t h at h a s va l u e t o s o c i et y h a s Ku l e a n a . M y t h o u g ht s we r e, l et ’s b u i l d a c o m p a ny t h at c a n c o m p ete a g a i n s t a ny ot h e r c o m p a ny i n t h e w o r l d a s f a r a s va l u e, c a p i t a l i n v s p r o f i t o u t a n d h ave a p r o d u c t t h at p e o p l e a l r e a d y k n o w a n d wa nt . A) Let ’s d o i t b et te r t h a n a nyo n e e l s e. Let ’s m a ke t h i s w o r l d c l a s s r u m t h at ’s j u s t u n b e l i eva b l y d e l i c i o u s . T h at ’s t h e b i g t h i n g. W h e n p e o p l e t r y o u r r u m , t h ey a r e l i ke w h at ? We d o n’ t p u t f l avo r s , c o l o r s o r s u g a r i n a ny t h i n g we d o. T h ey a r e l i ke I d i d n’ t k n o w r u m c o u l d b e a s g o o d a s S c otc h, o r a s g o o d G r a n A n e j o Te q u i l a . B) Let ’s m a ke i t f r o m a n A g r i c o l e p r o g r a m t h at i s t ot a l l y d o n e i n h o u s e. We g o a l l t h e way f r o m d i r t t o M a i Ta i s . We c o nt r o l eve r y s i n g l e p a r t o f t h at p r o c e s s . We d o a b s o l u te l y eve r y t h i n g yo u c a n d o. T h e n we h ave t h i s b l e n d i n g p r o g r a m t o c r e ate t h e s e b u s i n e s s e s s o s c a l a b l e t h at we c a n c o m p ete a g a i n s t a ny ot h e r e nt i t y a n d we c a n d o i t u s i n g H awa i i a n va l u e s a n d H awa i i a n

way s o f d o i n g t h i n g s Yo u s aw t h e f a r m , t h at ’s a n i c e p l a c e t o b e. T h e r e i s n o t h i n g n a s t y h a p p e n i n g t h e r e, i t ’s b e a u t i f u l. We a r e t a k i n g H awa i i a n l a n d a n d g r o w i n g H awa i i a n c r o p s t h at H awa i i a n s i nve nte d a n d we a r e g r o w i n g t h e m o n t h at l a n d s o t h a t p e o p l e c a n e n j oy t h e m a n d l e a r n h o w t h e c a n o e s s h o we d u p a t h o u s a n d ye a r s a g o, u s i n g c e l e s t i a l n av i g at i o n.

T h e Eu r o p e a n s we r e i n t h e D a r k a g e s , c l u b b i n g e a c h ot h e r i n t h e h e a d a n d d y i n g o f C h o l e r a a n d t h e s e H awa i i a n s we r e s et t i n g u p t h e s e a m a z i n g c i v i l i z a t i o n s . We c a n s h a r e a l l t h at a n d a l l o w i t c o nt i n u e a n d m a ke r o o m f o r i t s o t h at i t c a n a c t u a l l y t h r i ve n o w. Fi f t y ye a r s a g o, p e o p l e d i d n’ t wa nt s u g a r c a n e t o t h r i ve; i t wa s k i n d o f a b u m m e r, i t wa s a n e c e s s a r y ev i l. N o w i t ’s ye a , w h at d o we n e e d t o d o t o g r o w m o r e o f t h i s?

B e c a u s e o f t h e h i g h va l u e a d d e d, p e o p l e c a n a c t u a l l y m a ke a l o t o f m o n ey. We a r e w o r k i n g w i t h ot h e r f a r m e r s n o w. T h ey c a n g et te n t o f i f te e n t h o u s a n d d o l l a r s a n a c r e by g r o w i n g t h e i r c r o p s o n t h e i r l a n d, w i t h t h e i r p e o p l e a n d t h e i r way a n d t h e n s e l l i t t o u s . T h ey a r e m a k i n g m o n ey. Yo u h ave te n a c r e s; yo u c a n m a ke a h u n d r e d a n d f i f t y g r a n d a ye a r. T h at ’s a n i c e j o b. I f we c a n d o t h a t , a n d l et H awa i i b e m o r e H awa i i, a n d l et t h e v i s i t o r s c o m e h e r e a n d s e e m o r e H awa i i t h a n t h ey eve r d i d b ef o r e a n d g et a p r o d u c t t h a t i s H awa i i i n a b o t t l e, t h at ’s j u s t g o o d f o r eve r y b o d y.

A t t h i s p o i nt , I r e l u c t a nt l y s ay g o o d bye t o S teve a n d d r i ve t we nt y m i n u te s S o u t h t o t h e Q u e e n s’ M a r ket p l a c e w h e r e I a m s c h e d u l e d t o a t te n d a r u m t a s t i n g a n d M a i Ta i C l a s s w i t h C h e l s e a Ya g o n g, t h e M a n a g e r o f H o s p i t a l i t y a t t h e Ku l e a n a Ru m S h a c k . Tw o o f t h e wa l l s o f t h e Ru m S h a c k a r e l i n e d w i t h l a r g e g a r a g e d o o r s t h at r o l l u p a n d g i ve t h e r e s t a u r a nt a t r o p i c a l, o p e n - a i r at m o s p h e r e. T h e Ru m S h a c k i s n ot o p e n yet , b u t p e o p l e a r e b u s t l i n g a b o u t g et t i n g t h e r e s t a u r a nt r e a d y f o r t h a t eve n i n g . T h e r e a r e e i g ht o f u s at t h e t a b l e, C h e l s e a , my s e l f, t h r e e e m p l oye e s a n d a c o u p l e a n d t h e i r a d u l t s o n, w h o a r e o n va c a t i o n a n d h e a r d a b o u t t h e c l a s s .

O n t h e t a b l e i n f r o nt o f u s a r e a s i g n i f i c a nt c o l l e c t i o n o f g l a s s e s , c o c k t a i l s h a ke r s , j i g g e r s , M a i Ta i i n g r e d i e nt s a n d, o f c o u r s e, Ku l e a n a rums. Chelsea star ts the class with a histor y o f s u g a r c a n e o n t h e i s l a n d a n d w h a t m a ke s A g r i c o l e r u m d i f f e r e nt . S h e m ove s o n t o t h e Ku l e a n a s t o r y a n d t h e i r c o r p o r a te p h i l o s o p hy.

H e r t a l k i s f u n a n d e nte r t a i n i n g , f i l l e d w i t h f u n ny s t o r i e s a n d e n g a g i n g q u e s t i o n s . T h e n she fills our glasses and the tasting begins. As s h e t a ke s u s t h r o u g h t h e f o u r r u m s , s h e o f f e r s t i p s o n h o w t o s e e k o u t a r o m a s a n d f l avo r s .

S h e d o e s n’ t u s e p r ete nt i o u s t a s t i n g ve r b i a g e, b u t r at h e r r e a c h e s b a c k i nt o h e r f a m i l y h i s t o r y, r e c a l l i n g s p i c e s i n h e r g r a n d m o t h e r ’s k i tc h e n, s m e l l s f r o m h e r c h i l d h o o d h o m e. I s e e t h e

heads of the couple across from me nodding t h e i r a g r e e m e nt w i t h h e r d e s c r i pt i o n s . A s t h e wa r m f i n i s h o f t h e H o k u l e i l i n g e r s i n o u r m o u t h, we b e g i n t o m a ke M a i Ta i s . We s t a r t w i t h t h e r u m s , 1-1/ 2 o u n c e s o f t h e w h i te HuiHui and 1 ounce of the aged Nanea. Then we a d d ¾ o u n c e f r e s h l i m e j u i c e, ½ o u n c e O r g e at a n d ¼ o u n c e o r a n g e l i q u e u r. A c o u p l e d a s h e s o f B i t te r s a n d i t ’s t i m e t o s h a ke. T h e M a i Ta i i s p r et t y d a r n g o o d, i f I s ay s o my s e l f.

A t t h i s p o i nt I r e a l i ze t h at C h e l s e a h a s b e e n e nte r t a i n i n g a n d e d u c at i n g u s f o r ove r a n h o u r. T i m e h a s f l o w n by. I r e m e m b e r S teve’s g o a l s f o r t h e Ru m S h a c k : we h a d g o o d d r i n ks , we h a d f u n, we d i s c ove r e d n ew r u m s a n d we are probably going to go home and share our ex p e r i e n c e s . T h e n i g ht b ef o r e, w h e n we we r e h av i n g d r i n ks at t h e Ru m S h a c k , I r e m e m b e r s e e i n g a l ot o f d i n e r s wa l k i n g o u t w i t h b ot t l e s o f Ku l e a n a r u m i n t h e i r h a n d s . A t t h e t a s t i n g, t h e c o u p l e a c r o s s f r o m m e b u y s s eve r a l b ot t l e s a n d I wa l k o u t w i t h a b ot t l e o f H o k u l e i. G r e at m a r ket i n g, i n d e e d.

M y f a m i l y ’s t i m e o n t h e B i g I s l a n d h a s c o m e t o a c l o s e a n d n o w we h e a d t o O a h u, w h e r e c o i n c i d e nt l y (o r n ot) t h e r e i s a n ot h e r r u m distiller y to visit.

I w o u l d l i ke t o o f f e r my t h a n ks t o C h e l s e a Ya g o n g f o r a n e n j oya b l e c l a s s , t o J e a n n e L ew i s f o r h e r h e l p w i t h p h ot o g r a p h s a n d a s p e c i a l t h a n ks t o S teve J ef f e r s o n f o r s p e n d i n g s o m u c h t i m e w i t h m e a n d a n s we r i n g a l l my n e r d y r u m questions.

M i ke Ku n et k a

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 5 7

Got R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 58

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 5 9

C IG A R & R UbyMPhi liPA I R ING p I li B a r ake

Got R um ? March 2 0 2 3 - 60

Two Veterans A s I was t hi nk i n g a b o ut t hi s m o nt h’s p ai r i n g, I ex p l o r e d t h e o l d b ot t l e s i n my c o ll e c t i o n. O f te nt i m e s t h e m o st ex p e ns i ve o n e s a r e n ot t h e a nswe r, b ut r at h e r t h e o n e s t h at n at ur a lly of fe r t h e b e st r a n g e of a r o m as.

M

y n a m e i s Ph i l i p I l i B a r a ke, S o m m e l i e r by t r a d e. A s a r e s u l t o f w o r k i n g w i t h s e l e c te d r e s t a u r a nt s a n d w i n e p r o d u c e r s i n C h i l e, I s t a r te d d eve l o p i n g a p a s s i o n for distilled spirits and cigars. As par t of my m o s t r e c e nt j o b, I h a d t h e o p p o r t u n i t y t o v i s i t m a ny C e nt r a l A m e r i c a n c o u nt r i e s , a s we l l a s , r u m d i s t i l l e r i e s a n d t o b a c c o g r o we r s .

B u t my p a s s i o n f o r s p i r i t s a n d c i g a r s d i d n ot e n d t h e r e; i n 2 010 I h a d t h e h o n o r o f r e p r e s e nt i n g C h i l e a t t h e I nte r n a t i o n a l C i g a r S o m m e l i e r C o m p et i t i o n, w h e r e I w o n f i r s t p l a c e, b e c o m i n g t h e f i r s t S o u t h A m e r i c a n t o eve r a c h i eve t h a t f e a t .

Now I face the challenge of impressing t h e r e a d e r s o f “ G o t Ru m? ” w i t h w h a t i s perhaps the toughest task for a Sommelier: d i s c u s s i n g p a i r i n g s w h i l e b e i n g we l l awa r e t h at t h e r e a r e a s m a ny i n d i v i d u a l p r ef e r e n c e s a s t h e r e a r e r u m s a n d c i g a r s i n t h e wo r l d.

I b e l i eve a p a i r i n g i s a n ex p e r i e n c e t h a t s h o u l d n ot b e l i m i te d t o o n l y t w o p r o d u c t s; i t i s s o m et h i n g t h a t c a n b e i n c o r p o r a te d i nt o o u r l i ve s . I hope to help our r e a d e r s d i s c ove r a n d a p p r e c i ate t h e pleasure of tr ying 2023 n ew t h i n g s (o r ex p e r i e n c i n g k n o w n t h i n g s i n n ew way s).

Philip # GRC i g a r Pa i r i n g

W i t h t hi s i n m i n d, I s e l e c te d t wo r um s t h at I h ave f o n d m e m o r i e s of. T h e f i r st o n e i s Ro n S a nt i a g o d e Cuba 11 Ye a r O l d, w hi c h was o n e of t h e f i r st Cuba n r um s I fe ll i n l ove w i t h a n d o n e t h at I of te n dr a nk w hi l e s m o k i n g dur i n g my num e r o us t r i p s to t h e H a ba n o Fe st i va l s i n Cuba. T h e s e c o n d o n e I h ad s et as i d e b e c aus e of h ow h a r d i t i s to f i n d.

I ’m sur e t h e r e a r e c o ll e c to r ’s we b s i te s w i t h s o m e b ot t l e s st i ll f o r s a l e, b ut t h e p r i c e w i ll b e ve r y i nf l ate d, I ’m t a lk i n g a b o ut Ro n S e l e c to E x t r a A ñ e j o f r o m S a nt a Te r e s a, i n i t s ve r y p e c uli a r b ot t l e.

T h e f i r st r um h as a d e e p e r, da r ke r c o l o r a n d i n t h e a r o m a i t h as a d o m i n a nt c a r a m e l n ote t h at c a n p r o du c e a m i l d, c o l a - bas e d c o c k t ai l, w i t h li g ht a l c o h o l n ote s w i t h o ut mu c h ox i dat i o n. T h e s e c o n d r um h as a li g hte r c o l o r a n d i s a l s o l e s s f r a g r a nt t h a n t h e f i r st , b ut t h e d o m i n a nt n ote i s m o r e l e at h e r- like t h a n c a r a m e l, w hi c h m ake s i t m o r e e nj oya b l e a n d l e s s swe et o n t h e p a l ate. Let ’s s e e h ow we d o w i t h t hi s p ai r i n g.

T h e c i g a r f o r t hi s m o nt h’s p ai r i n g i s a G r a n To r o d e Ve g af i n a (52 x 6), m ad e i n t h e D o m i ni c a n Re p ub li c w i t h a ll N i c a r a g u a n to bac c o s f r o m t h e J a l a p a a n d Este lí va ll eys. I t i s e asy to p r e di c t t h at t h e i nte ns i t y w i ll b e b et we e n m e di um a n d st r o n g, as a r e sult of t h e s e to bac c o s. Let ’s s e e h ow t h e r um s d o n ex t .

D ur i n g t h e f i r st t hi r d of t h e c i g a r, b ot h r um s st a n d up o n t h e i r ow n. T h e c l e a n a n d c a r a m e l - l ad e n n ote s of t h e Cuba n r um m i x we ll w i t h t h e to bac c o. T h e

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 6 1

Ph oto c r e di t : @ Ci g a r i li

Got Got Rum R um?? March March 22002233 -- 62 62

Ph oto c r e di t : @ Ci g a r i li Ve n ezu e l a n r um h as a l o n g e r f i ni s h a n d i t eve n e nh a n c e s s o m e c o m m o n, o i ly n ote s.

A s we st a r t to s m o ke t h e s e c o n d t hi r d of t h e c i g a r, b ot h r um s c o nt i nu e to p ai r ex t r e m e ly we l l. O n t h e o n e h a n d, t h e s o ot hi n g c a r a m e l n ote s a n d, o n t h e ot h e r h a n d, a f l avo r c o m p l ex i t y ac c e nt u ate d by t h e to bac c o a n d l e at h e r n ote s.

T h e r e was n o n e e d to ad d i c e to t h e r um s, at t h e c o r e of t h e p ai r i n g was t h e j u x t a p o s i t i o n b et we e n t h e t wo yo un g r um s w i t h a b o l d c i g a r i n b et we e n. I t i s o bv i o us t h at di f fe r e nt p e o p l e w i ll h ave di f fe r e nt p r efe r e n c e s, b ut p e r s o n a lly I like d t h e subt l et y a n d c o m p l ex i t y I ex p e r i e n c e d w i t h t h e S a nt a Te r e s a.

I k n ow t h at i t i s h a r d to f i n d t h e s e b ot t l e s i n t h e m a r ket , b ut yo u c a n g o t h r o u g h yo ur p e r s o n a l r um c o ll e c t i o n a n d t r y to f i n d b ot t l e s f i ll e d w i t h s o m ew h at yo un g r um s t h at c a n p l e as a nt ly sur p r i s e yo u i n t h e s a m e m a nn e r t h at t h e s e t wo r um s di d.

I t i s n ot n e c e s s a r y to o p e n t h e m o st ex p e ns i ve b ot t l e of r um to h ave a g r e at c i g a r p ai r i n g, a n d t hi s a r t i c l e i s p e r fe c t p r o of of t hi s.

C h e e r s!

Phi li p I li B a r ake # GRCi g a r Pai r i n g

G o t Ru m ? Ma rc h 2 0 2 3 - 6 3

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