"Got Rum?" June 2023

Got Rum? J U N E 2023

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f r o m t h e g r a s s t o yo u r g l a s s , s i n c e 20 01!

COOKING WITH RUM - Angel’s Share - CIGAR & Rum MUSE OF MIXOLOGY - RUM HISTORIAN UNTIL THE BIT TER END - RUM IN THE NEWS THE IMBIBER’S ALMANAC - THE RUM UNIVERSITY® THE SWEET BUSINESS OF SUGAR

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JUNE 2023 5 From The Editor 6-9 T h e A n g e l’ s S h a r e - R u m R e v i e w s 10-13 C OO K ING WI T H RUM 14-19 T HE IM B I B ER ’ S A LM A N A C 20-23 MUSE O F MI X OLOG Y 24-25 T HE RUM UNIVERSI T Y ® LI B R A R Y 28-31 T h e RUM HIS T ORI A N 32-39 UN T IL T HE B I T T ER END 40-43 RUM IN T HE NEWS 48-57 T HE SWEE T B USINESS O F SUG A R 60-63 C IG A R a n d RUM PA IRING

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® Got Rum? Printed in the U.S.A. A publication of Rum Runner Press, Inc. Hutto, Texas 78634 - U.S.A. Tel/Fax +1 (855) RUM-TIPS © 2023 by Rum Runner Press, Inc. All rights reserved.

June 2023 Edi tor and P ubl i sher:

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Executi ve Edi tor:

margaret@ gotrum. com

C i gar and Rum:

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A ngel ’s Share: paul @ gotrum.com Rum Hi stori an:

marco@ gotrum.c om

Rum i n the New s:

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C ooki ng w i th Rum:

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Webmaster: w eb@ gotrum.com Di rector of P hotography:

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n e w s @g o tr u m . c o m You can download the free electronic version (low-res) of this magazine, or purchase the high resolution printed version at:

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F RON T C OVER : Tri pl e Rum Del i ght INSIDE S P RE A D : A n Ode to Summer

F ROM T HE EDI T OR

Energy from Sugar I have wr itten b e fore about how y east evol ved ove r millions of ye a rs , t o consum e su g a r a n d to pro d u ce a lcohol. Suga r, a re a d ily a vailable s our ce of life-sustain ing e n e rgy, is p roduced by many pla n ts aro u n d us , a n d i t i s consume d by an e ven larg e r n u m ber of m icro o rganisms. Yeast e vol ved the ability to create eth a n o l f rom sugar as a su rviva l strate g y. T h is f or m of chemica l warfare , a llo ws it t o s ani tize its enviro n ment, rid d ing it o f c om peti tion, so that it can cla im to t a l c ontr ol over th e so u rce of th e su g a r.

I nter estingly, u s h u mans have also t aken advantage o f sugarcane, wh ic h i s natur e’s la rgest source o f sugar, t o e n gineer a way to obta in e n e rgy fro m i t , not onl y for me tabolic purp o ses, b u t f or m any of ou r e veryday in d u stria l a n d d o m esti c purp o ses as we ll, in the f o rm o f electr ic energ y!

Bagasse ( the sugarcane fib e r leftov e r f rom the can e juice e xtractio n pro c e s s ) i s an excelle nt so u rce of fu e l for f ur naces that boil wate r to p roduce s team that can , in turn , p o wer millin g e q uipm ent an d ele ctric g e n e rato rs.

E l ectr i c genera tio n te chnolo g y is c onstantl y ev o lving, beco min g mo re e fficient and bein g adopte d by mo re a n d m or e sugarcane mills a round t h e w or l d.

L a st m onth we sta rte d a n e w series (“The Sw eet B usiness o f S u g a r”) d e voted to explo rin g all a spects of t h e s ugar i ndustry. May’s issue g a ve u s a n o ver vi ew of the g lobal su g a r e conomy a n d, star ti ng with this month ’s issue , w e’ l l explor e su g a r-p roducing count rie s i ndividual l y.

T h is mo n t h ’s f o c u s is G u a t e ma la (p a g e s 4 4 t o 5 7 ). I t is wo rt h n o t in g t h a t t h e 1 0 a c t iv e s u g a r mills in t h e c o u n t ry p ro d u c e d 2 7 p e rc e n t o f G u a t e ma la ’s t o t a l e n e rg y, a n d t h a t 9 1 % o f t h e f u e l re s p o n s ib le f o r t h a t e n e r g y g e n e ra t io n c a me f ro m b a g a s s e . O th e r s o u rc e s in c lu d e d c h a rc o a l a n d me th a n e f ro m b io d ig e s t o rs (f ro m v in a s s e / s pe n t wa s h t re a t me n t ). A s y o u c a n s e e , s u g a r h a s b e e n , a n d will c o n t in u e t o b e , a g re a t s o u rc e o f e n e rg y.

To t h e s we e t g ra s s !

L u is Ay a la , E d it o r a n d P u b lis h e r http://www.linkedin.com/in/rumconsultant Do you want to learn more about rum but don’t want to wait until the next issue of “Got Rum?”? Then join the “Rum Lovers Unite!” group on LinkedIn for updates, previews, Q&A and exclusive material.

Got Rum? June 2023 - 5

T HE A NGEL’ S SH A RE

by Paul S e nf t

Don Q Double Cask Finish Zinfandel Cask

M y nam e i s Paul S enf t - Rum Rev i ewer, Tast ing h o st , J udg e and Wr iter. M y ex p l o r at i o n of Rums b e gan by l ear ning to c r af t T ik i c o c k t ails fo r f r i ends. I qui c k ly l ear ne d t hat n ot all r ums are c reate d e qually and t hat t he uni quene s s of t he spir it c an b e as var i e d as t he l o c al e s t hey are f r o m. T hi s inspire d m e to t r ave l w it h my w i fe ar ound t he C ar ibb ean, C ent r al A m er i c a, and U nite d S t ate s v i sit ing di st ill er i e s and l ear ning ab out h ow eac h o ne c reate s t heir r ums. I have als o had t he p l easure of l ear ning f r o m bar tender s, b r and ambas s ado r s, and ot her ent husiast s f r o m ar ound t he wo r l d; eac h o ne p r ov i ding t heir ow n uni que p o int of v i ew, adding an ot her c hapter to t he m o der n sto r y of r um.

T he de sire to share t hi s info r mat i o n l e d m e to c reate w w w. Ru m Jo u r n ey.c o m w here I share my ex p er i enc e s and rev i ews in t he h o p e s t hat I woul d inspire ot her s in t heir ow n ex p l o r at i o ns.

It i s my w i sh in t he pag e s of “ G ot Rum? ” to b e your h o st and p r ov i de you w it h my imp re s si o ns of r ums availab l e in t he wo r l d mar ket . H o p ef ully my t ast ing n ote s w ill inspire you to t r y t he r ums and make your ow n o pini o ns. T he wo r l d i s f ull of g o o d r ums and t he j our ney i s al ways b e st ex p er i enc e d w it h ot her s.

Che er s!

Got Rum ? June 2 0 2 3 - 6

In M arc h 2023, D o n Q adde d t wo new r ums to t heir p remium line w it h t he addit i o n of t heir Po r t Cask and Zinfande l Cask f inishe d ex p re s si o ns.

Fo r t he Zinfande l c ask re lease, t hey age d t heir m o las se s - base d c o lumn st ill r um in A mer ic an w hite oak ex- b our b o n bar re ls f ro m O c to b er 20 0 9 to J uly 2012 . T hen, at t he end of 2018 , t he c o mpany blende d t he se bar re ls and put t he r um in Cali fo r nia Zinfande l c asks, w here it re ste d unt il b eing blende d to 4 0% A BV and b ot t le d in S eptemb er 202 2.

Appearance T he 75 0 ml b ot t le is t he s ame de si gn use d fo r all t he ex p re s si o ns in t he D o n Q p remium line. T he g o l d c ap is engr ave d w it h t he D o n Q l o g o, w r app e d in c lear se c ur it y w r ap, and h o lds a sy nt het ic c o r k to t he b ot t le. Emb o s se d ab ove t he f ro nt and bac k lab e ls, t he wo r ds Ser r all é s Re ser va ap p ear, adding a nic e v isual touc h to t he b ot t le de si gn. T he lab e ls are l oade d w it h info r mat i o n ab out t he r um, shar ing det ails ab out it s aging p ro c e s s.

T he r um h o l ds a me dium amb er c o l o r t hat li ghtens sli ght ly in t he t ast ing glas s. S w ir ling t he li qui d c reate s a me dium band t hat sl ow ly t hic kens and re lease s a c oup le of wave s of le gs befo re evap o r at ing.

Nose Pour ing t he r um into t he glas s re lease d a st ro ng vanilla aro ma. A f ter let t ing t he li qui d re st fo r a few minute s, I disc overe d note s of dr i e d ap r ic ot , blac k b er r y, and f i g, al o ng w it h ot her

f r uit and ber r y note s, w it h hint s of toaste d oak t annins rounding out t he ex p er i enc e.

Pa l a t e T he f ir st sip of t he r um is a f ine balanc e of deep M adagasc ar vanilla and ro bust f r uit and b er r y note s. Addit i o nal sips reveal t he t ang o of f lavo r s t hat balanc e bet ween t he r um f lavo r s and t he nuanc e s of t he c ask f inish, w it h t he c ar amel, vanilla, and toaste d oak t annins f ro m t he r um inf luenc e d by t he blac k b er r y, c her r y, f i g, dr i e d c r anber r y, and apr ic ot note s w it h a hint of allspic e and anise dr if t ing under neat h.

W hen evaluat ing r ums, I have o nly had a few t hat were f inishe d in Zinfandel c asks, and t hey have all been dif ferent . I found t he D o n Q D oubl e Cask Finish Zinfandel C ask Rum to be a we ll - balanc e d ex pre s si o n and inc re dibly dif ferent t han any t hing e lse I have t r i e d in t heir p o r t fo li o. T his is o ne you want to t ake your t ime w it h to sip, s avo r, and enj oy neat o r w it h a single i c e c ube. By de si gn, t his r um, like t he ot her s t hat have app eare d in t heir premium line, sh owc ase s t he st rengt h of D o n Q’s blending team and pr ovi de s a f lavo r f ul ex p er i enc e t hat any r um ent husiast c an l o o k fo r w hen t hey want to ex p er i enc e so m et hing uni que in t heir glas s.

w w w.donq.c om

Revi ew

Got Rum? June 2023 - 7

T HE A NGEL’ S SH A RE

by Paul S e nf t

Ron Colon Salvadoreno High Proof Rum O n e of t h e h i g h l i g ht s of t h e 2 0 2 2 Ta l e s of t h e C o c k t a i l wa s at te n di n g a t a st i n g a n d b a r eve nt s t h at f e at u r e d t h e Ro n C o l o n S a l va d o r e n o l i n e. A l l t h r e e r u m s m a d e a p o s i t i ve i m p r e s s i o n, a n d I m a d e a n ote to p i c k u p a b ot t l e w h e n I f o u n d i t i n t h e sto r e s s o I c o u l d g i ve i t a p r o p e r eva l u at i o n. T h e d ay a r r i ve d w h i l e s h o p p i n g i n d ow ntow n A t l a nt a a n d di s c ove r i n g t h e H i g h Pr o of r u m ex p r e s s i o n o n t h e s h e l f. O n e of t h e t h i n g s I a l way s f i n d i nte r e st i n g i s w h e n s o m e o n e t h i n ks o u t s i d e of t h e b ox w i t h a r u m b l e n d.

T h e m a ke r s of Ro n C o l o n S a l va d o r e n o u s e a s i x ye a r o l d, c o l u m n st i l l r u m f r o m L i c o r e r a C i h u at a n a s t h e b a s e f o r t h e r u m b l e n d.

T h ey a l s o u s e d u n a g e d J a m a i c a n p ot st i l l r u m s f r o m H a m p d e n, M o ny m u s k , a n d Wo r t hy Pa r k a n d t h r e e ye a r o l d p ot st i l l r u m f r o m Wo r t hy Pa r k , b l e n d e d i t a l l to g et h e r, b ot t l e d i t i n N ew Yo r k , a n d p r e s e nte d t h e r u m to c o n s u m e r s at 5 5 . 5% A BV. Appearance T h i s r u m i s s o l d i n a t a l l, o p a q u e, d a r k 75 0 m l b ot t l e t h at h a s a n o l i ve c o l o r w h e n h e l d u p to t h e l i g ht . T h e wo o d e n c a p h o l d s a sy nt h et i c c o r k a n d i s s e c u r e d to t h e b ot t l e w i t h a t i g ht s e c u r i t y w r a p t h at I h a d to c u t of f to o p e n t h e b ot t l e. T h e c a p h a s t h e c o m p a ny l o g o e m b o s s e d o n t h e to p i n s i l ve r m et a l.

T h e b ot t l e i s w r a p p e d i n a s i n g l e l a b e l t h at p r ov i d e s s o m e of t h e d et a i l s a b o u t t h e r u m, a n d w h i l e i t l o o ks g r e at a n d st a n d s o n t h e s h e l f, t h e f ac t t h at i t d o e s n ot m e nt i o n t h at i t i s a b l e n d of J a m a i c a n a n d El S a l va d o r i a n r u m s i s a m i s s e d o p p o r t u n i t y. E s p e c i a l l y w h e n yo u c o n s i d e r h ow p o p u l a r J a m a i c a n r u m s a r e i n t h e m a r ket p l ac e.

T h e r u m h a s a p a l e a m b e r c o l o r w i t h a t i ny b i t of p a r t i c u l ate s u s p e n d e d i n t h e l i q u i d.

S w i r l i n g t h e l i q u i d c r e ate s a t h i n b a n d t h at q u i c k l y t h i c ke n s a n d r e l e a s e s l i g ht n i n g f a s t l e g s d ow n t h e s i d e of t h e g l a s s b ef o r e l e av i n g a r i n g of r e s i d u e a r o u n d t h e g l a s s.

Got Rum ? June 2 0 2 3 - 8

Nose T h e r u m i s q u i te a r o m at i c , f i l l i n g t h e a i r w i t h n ote s of g r i l l e d p i n e a p p l e. A f te r I l et t h e l i q u i d s i t f o r a few m i n u te s , I d i s c ove r e d n ote s of c r è m e b r u l e, l i m e ze st , w h at I d ef i n e a s ve g et a l J a m a i c a n f u n k , a n d b a ke d b a n a n a p u d di n g d r i f t i n g i n, p u n c t u at i n g t h e ex p e r i e n c e w i t h f r u i t y swe et n e s s.

Pa l a t e S i p p i n g t h e r u m i s i nte r e st i n g a s t h e c a r a m e l i ze d va n i l l a c o at s t h e to n g u e w i t h a f i e r y e nt r y. T h e n t h e f r u i t n ote s of g r i l l e d p i n e a p p l e a n d b a n a n a r u s h i n, b a l a n c e d by n ote s of d r i e d to b a c c o l e a f, b l a c k p e p p e r, a n d d a r k r o a st c of fe e. T h e l i m e ze st I p i c ke d u p c o m e s i n l ate r, a l o n g w i t h s o m e p l e a s a nt l y l i g ht to a ste d o a k n ote s. T h e b a l a n c e of t h e f l avo r s l i n g e r s i n a p l e a s a nt d a n c e u nt i l t h e f r u i t f l avo r s t a ke ove r a n d l i n g e r i n a n i c e, l o n g, d r y f i n i s h.

R ev i e w I k n ew f r o m my p r ev i o u s ex p e r i e n c e w i t h t h e r u m t h at i t wa s i nte r e st i n g, b u t I di d n ot r e m e m b e r i t b e i n g “ t h i s” i nte r e st i n g a n d f l avo r f u l. T h i s i s w hy I n eve r b a s e my r ev i ew s o n w h at I ex p e r i e n c e at s h ow s a n d i n s te a d u s e t h at t i m e a s m ot i vat i o n to t r a c k s o m et h i n g d ow n l ate r. S i n c e t h i s r u m h a s s u c h a h i g h p r o of, j u st l y e a r n i n g t h e n a m e i n t h e t i t l e, I eva l u ate d i t u s i n g a s e r i e s of t i ny s i p s to ke e p f r o m b u r n i n g my p a l ate o u t . T h e El S a l va d o r r u m c o m p o n e nt h e l p s g r o u n d a n d b a l a n c e t h e s p i r i t , c r e at i n g a s o l i d f o u n d at i o n f o r t h e J a m a i c a n c o m p o n e nt to s h i n e a n d p r ov i d e t h e l ove l y c o m p l ex i t y I e n j oye d. I wa s ex p e c t i n g t h e wo o d n ote s to d o m i n ate at t h e f i n i s h, b u t I f o u n d t h e f r u i t t a k i n g ove r, a d d i n g a n i c e p l ot t w i st to t h e ove r a l l ex p e r i e n c e.

A s f a r a s d e p l oy i n g t h i s s p i r i t i n c o c k t a i l s , i t wa s s u r p r i s i n g l y g o o d i n a h i g h p r o of D a i q u i r i, i n a r u m p u n c h, a n d i n a n ot h e r f r u i t b a s e d t r o p i c a l c o c k t a i l I s a m p l e d i t i n. O ve r a l l, I f o u n d i t to b e a r e a s o n a b l y p r i c e d r u m t h at I c o u l d u s e i n a va r i et y of t r o p i c a l c o c k t a i l s .

N ow t h at I c a n e a s i l y f i n d i t , I w i l l p u t i t i n r ot at i o n a n d l o o k f o r wa r d to s h a r i n g i t w i t h f r i e n d s.

Would you like to see your r um reviewed here?

We don’t charge fees to review r ums. You don’t even have to adver tise.

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So... what are you waiting for ???

For more infor mation, please send an email to: margaret@gotr um.c om

Got Rum? June 2023 - 9

COOKING WITH RUM Bringing the Spirit of the Cane Into the Hear t of the Kitchen!

by Chef Susan W hitley

Got Got Rum Rum?? June June 22002233 -- 10 10

G Goott R Ruum m?? JJuunnee 22002233 -- 11 11

Jamaican Ribs with Sticky Rum BBQ Sauce I n g r e d i e n t s: • • • •

2 (2- p o u n d) R a c ks B a by B a c k Po r k Ribs 1 T b s p. J e r k S e a s o n i n g B l e n d 1 C. D a r k Ru m * S t i c k y Ru m B B Q S a u c e - s e e r e c i p e below

D i r e c t i o n s: 1.

2.

3.

4.

R i n s e a n d p a t r i b s d r y. I f d e s i r e d, r e m ove t h i n m e m b r a n e s f r o m b a c ks o f r i b s , u s i n g a p a p e r t o we l f o r a b et te r g r i p. ( T h i s w i l l m a ke r i b s m o r e te n d e r.)

Ru b r i b s eve n l y w i t h j e r k s e a s o n i n g.

Po u r r u m i n a s h a l l o w d i s h o r z i p - t o p p l a s t i c f r e e ze r b a g; a d d r i b s , t u r n i n g t o c o a t . C ove r o r s e a l, a n d c h i l l 1 h o u r, t u r n i n g o c c a s i o n a l l y.

L i g ht 1 s i d e o f g r i l l, h e a t i n g t o m e d i u m h e a t (3 2 5° t o 3 5 0 °). P l a c e a d r i p p a n b e n e a t h u n l i t s i d e. Re m ove r i b s f r o m m a r i n a d e, l et d r a i n q u i c k l y, a n d p l a c e o n g r a te a b ove d r i p p a n. G r i l l (w i t h l i d c l o s e d), t u r n i n g o c c a s i o n a l l y, 2 1/ 2 t o 3 h o u r s o r u nt i l r i b s a r e b r o w n e d a n d te n d e r a n d m e a t h a s s h r u n k b a c k f r o m bones.

B r u s h r i b s w i t h 1/ 2 c u p S t i c k y Ru m B B Q S a u c e, a n d g r i l l 15 m o r e m i n u te s . S e r ve w i t h a d d i t i o n a l s a u c e. Y i e l d: M a ke s 4 s e r v i n g s * S t i c k y Ru m B B Q S a u c e

I n g r e d i e nt s: • • • • • • • • • • •

1 C. D a r k B r o w n S u g a r, f i r m l y p a c ke d ½ C. Ketc h u p ½ C. D a r k R u m 1 T b s p. J e r k S e a s o n i n g B l e n d 1 t s p. L i m e Z e s t 2 T b s p. Fr e s h L i m e J u i c e 2 T b s p. S oy S a u c e 1 t s p. Fr e s h G r a te d G i n g e r 2 G a r l i c C l ove s , m i n c e d 1 G r e e n O n i o n, f i n e l y c h o p p e d ¼ t s p. L i q u i d S m o ke

D i r e c t i o n s: C o m b i n e i n g r e d i e nt s i n a s m a l l s a u c e p a n ove r m e d i u m h e at . S i m m e r f o r a b o u t 6 o r u nt i l s l i g ht l y t h i c ke n e d. Re m ove f r o m h e at a n d a l l o w t o c o o l. Ref r i g e r ate l ef t ove r i n a s e a l e d c o nt a i n e r. W i l l ke e p f o r u p t o 2 we e ks .

P h o t o c r e d i t : w w w. i s t h a m b u l .c o m

Got Got Rum Rum?? June June 22002233 -- 12 12

Molten Buttered Rum Cakes I n g r e d i e n t s: •

1 T b s p. G r a h a m C r ac ke r C r um b s

•

1/ 2 C. (3 oz.)

B ut te r s c otc h C hi p s

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1/ 3 C. B ut te r

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2 W h o l e Eg g s

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1 Eg g Yo lk

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1/4 t s p. Rum E x t r ac t

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2 T b s p. D a r k Rum

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1/ 3 C. D a r k B r ow n S u g a r, f i r m ly p ac ke d

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1/ 3 C. A ll - p ur p o s e Fl o ur

D i r e c t i o n s: 1. Pr e h e at ove n to 4 0 0 ° F. 2. S p r ay b ot to m s a n d s i d e s of 3 (6 - o un c e) c ust a r d c up s w i t h bak i n g s p r ay. S p r i nk l e f l o ur i nto e ac h c up, s h ake exc e s s f l o ur. S p r i nk l e a te as p o o n of g r a h a m c r ac ke r c r um b s o nto b ot to m a n d a r o un d s i d e of e ac h c up.

3. I n 1- qu a r t s au c e p a n, m e lt b ut te r s c otc h c hi p s a n d b ut te r ove r m e di um h e at , st i r r i n g c o nst a nt ly. Re m ove f r o m h e at a n d c o o l s li g ht ly, a b o ut 5 m i nute s.

4. I n a l a r g e b ow l, b e at w h o l e e g g s, e g g yo lk , r um ex t r ac t a n d da r k r um w i t h w i r e w hi s k o r e g g b e ate r unt i l we ll b l e n d e d. B e at i n b r ow n su g a r.

B e at i n m e lte d b ut te r s c otc h m i x t ur e a n d f l o ur unt i l we ll b l e n d e d.

D i v i d e bat te r eve n ly a m o n g c ust a r d c up s a n d p l ac e c up s o n c o o k i e s h e et , us e c o o k i e s h e et t h at h as s i d e s.

5. B ake 13 to 16 m i nute s o r unt i l s i d e s a r e s et a n d c e nte r s a r e st i ll s of t (to p s w i ll b e p u f fe d a n d c r ac ke d). Let st a n d 5 m i nute s. Run s m a ll k ni fe o r m et a l s p at ul a a l o n g s i d e s of c ake s to l o o s e n. I m m e di ate ly p l ac e i n di v i du a l d e s s e r t p l ate up s i d e d ow n ove r to p of e ac h c up; t ur n p l ate a n d c up ove r. Re m ove c up. S e r ve wa r m.

P h o t o c r e d i t : w w w. p i l l s b u r y.c o m

G Goott R Ruum m?? JJuunnee 22002233 -- 1133

The

I m bi ber’s

Almanac A mont hly gui d e fo r t hir st y exp lo re r s loo king fo r n ew rea son s to r ai se t h eir gl a s se s!

The Imbiber’s Almanac - The Rum University ®

Got Rum ? June 2 0 2 3 - 14

Pre sent e d by

Got Rum? June 2023 - 15

Got Rum ? June 2 0 2 3 - 16

T he

I m bi ber’s

Almanac

JUNE

A re you looking for festive reasons to raise your glass this month?

H ere are a few of them!

Wr ite to us at info@gotr um.c om if we missed any!

JUN 2 N at ional M o on shin e Day JUN 3 Wo r l d Ci d e r Day JUN 4 N at ional Co gnac Day JUN 12 Wo r l d G in Day JUN 14 N a t ional Bour b on Day JUN 19 N at ional M a r t ini Day

Got Rum? June 2023 - 17

Got Rum ? June 2 0 2 3 - 18

The

I m bi ber’s

Almanac Featured C oc k t ail:

Spiced Rum Cider (June 3rd)

Rum a n d A p p l e Ci d e r a r e f r e qu e nt ly c o m b i n e d i n h ot / wa r m dr i nks dur i n g t h e w i nte r h o li day s e as o n. H e r e i s a r e c i p e to e nj oy t hi s exc e ll e nt c o m b i n at i o n of f l avo r s dur i n g t h e h ot sum m e r days.

I n g r e d i e n t s: •

1 ½ oz. S p i c e d Rum

•

3 oz. A p p l e Ci d e r

•

1 oz. Fr e s h Le m o n J ui c e

•

1 t s p. M a p l e S y r up (p r efe r r e d) o r S y m p l e S y r up

•

A das h of O r a n g e B i t te r s

•

Ice

•

O pt i o n a l g a r ni s h e s: A p p l e S li c e s, Ci nn a m o n S t i c ks, S t a r A ni s e a n d B r ow n Sugar for the rim

D i r e c t i o n s: 1. Ad d a ll t h e i n g r e di e nt s (exc e pt t h e g a r ni s h e s) i nto a c o c k t ai l s h ake r, ad d a few i c e c ub e s. S h ake v i g o r o us ly f o r a few s e c o n ds a n d p o ur i nto a g l as s ove r i c e. I f yo u d o n’ t h ave a c o c k t ai l s h ake r, yo u c a n m i x eve r y t hi n g i n t h e g l as s.

J ust st i r i t r e a lly we ll a n d ad d i c e.

2. Ad d t h e g a r ni s h e s a n d r i m t h e g l as s w i t h su g a r, i f d e s i r e d. Enj oy !

Got Rum? June 2023 - 19

TH E M U S E OF MI XOLOGY

by Cr i s D e h l av i

Haitian Divorce A f te r b e i n g i n t h e i n dust r y f o r 25 + ye a r s a n d w r i t i n g f o r G ot Rum! f o r ove r 7, I of te n b e li eve I h ave h e a r d of eve r y r um dr i nk o n t h e p l a n et . N ai ve of m e, ye s, as t h e r e a r e c e r t ai n ly t h o us a n ds o ut t h e r e a n d e s p e c i a lly t h o s e t h at a r e c o ns i d e r e d “ m o d e r n c l as s i c s” (c o c k t ai l s i nve nte d b et we e n 1970 a n d to day).

T h e H a i t ia n D i vo r c e i s a n e nj oya b l e o n e I c a m e ac r o s s w h e n v i s i t i n g Aust i n, Texas, l ast we e k .

H i, my n a m e i s C r i s D e h l av i, a n d I h ave b e e n w r i t i n g f o r G o t R u m? f o r a l m o st 8 ye a r s. Fo r n e a r l y 2 0 ye a r s , I r a n a b a r p r o g r a m at t h e p r e s t i g i o u s 4 - D i a m o n d O h i o r e st au r a nt “ M at M i r a n ova .” I t wa s o n e of t h e f i r st c r a f t c o c k t a i l b a r s i n C o l u m b u s a n d g a r n e r e d d oze n s of awa r d s . T h e r e st au r a nt c l o s e d i n 2 0 2 0, a n d i t wa s t h e n t h at I m a d e a m ove f r o m b e i n g b e h i n d t h e st i c k to wo r k i n g a s B r a n d Ed u c ato r f o r D i a g e o H o s p i t a l i t y Pa r t n e r s h i p.

I h ave b e e n c o m m i t te d to m e nto r s h i p my e nt i r e p r ofe s s i o n a l l i f e a n d h ave b e e n o n e of t h e l e a d e r s of t h e C o c k t a i l A p p r e nt i c e Pr o g r a m at Ta l e s of t h e C o c k t a i l s i n c e 2 015 . I n 2 013 I c o m p l ete d t h e B A R 5 - D ay p r o g r a m, a n d I a m h a p py to a n n o u n c e t h at I p a s s e d my WSE T Leve l 3 i n S p i r i t s t h i s p a st f a l l.

O n e of my p r o u d e st m o m e nt s wa s b e i n g i n d u c te d i nto t h e D a m e H a l l of Fa m e i n 2 016 .

I h o p e yo u e n j oy my sto r i e s a b o u t c o c k t a i l s a n d r u m!

Got Rum ? Ju June n e 2023 2 0 2 3 - 220 0

To m R i c hte r o r i g i n a lly d e s i g n e d t hi s e c l e c t i c c o c k t ai l at T h e B e a g l e i n N ew Yo r k Ci t y. S adly, t h e E ast V i ll a g e s h e r r y - c e nt r i c ba r c l o s e d i t s d o o r s i n 2 013 , b ut t hi s o r i g i n a l r e c i p e li ve s o n.

R i c hte r i s t h e ow n e r a n d c r e ato r of To m r ’s To ni c , a c i n c h o n a - bas e d sy r up m e a nt to b e m i xe d w i t h g i n a n d c lub s o da. I n 2 012 w h e n t h e H ai t i a n D i vo r c e was c r e ate d, T h e B e a g l e h ad a r unni n g t h e m e of m at r i m o ny - st y l e dr i nks, eve r y t hi n g f r o m “ S e c o n d M a r r i a g e” to “ S h otg un We d di n g,” d e s i g n e d by c o - ow n e r a n d b eve r a g e di r e c to r D a n G r e e nbaum. To m R i c hte r st a r te d p l ay i n g a r o un d w i t h di f fe r e nt i te r at i o ns of t h e O l d Fas hi o n e d (b o ur b o n, su g a r, b i t te r s) a n d l ove d t h e c o m b i n at i o n of r um a n d m ezc a l, w hi c h p r ov i d e d n ote s yo u wo ul d m o st c o m m o n ly s m e ll a n d t aste i n a s i n g l e m a lt s c otc h. T h e i nh e r e nt s m o k y qu a li t y of m ezc a l m i xe d w i t h t h e f unk y f l avo r s of R hum Ag r i c o l e r e a lly p ac k a p un c h of c o m p l ex i t y. T hi s t w i st o n a Rum O l d Fas hi o n e d ad ds eve n m o r e w i t h Pe dr o X i m e n ez S h e r r y, w hi c h p r ov i d e s r ai s i ns, date s, a n d f i g f l avo r s.

I a b s o lute ly l ove t h at i t i s w r i t te n w i t h b ot h a li m e A N D o r a n g e t w i st , to o. T h e o i l s of t h e li m e b r i g hte n i t r i g ht up, w hi l e t h e o r a n g e te n ds to r o un d o ut a ll t h e i n g r e di e nt s.

Got Rum? June 2023 - 21

H ave f un w i t h t hi s o n e! Re m e m b e r t h at n ot a ll H ai t i a n r um s t aste t h e s a m e, a n d a ll m ezc a l s d ef i ni te ly d o n ot . I wo ul d e n c o ur a g e yo u to us e a li g ht ly s m o k y m ezc a l s o t h at t h e r um st i ll s hi n e s t h r o u g h a n d a n a g e d H ai t i a n r um s o t h at i t i s t h e st a r of t h e dr i nk .

Pr o T i p: T hi s c o c k t ai l i s wo n d e r f ul w i t h c h o c o l ate b i t te r s i n p l ac e of t h e A n g o st ur a, a n d i f yo u a r e a c i g a r- af te rdi nn e r t y p e of p e r s o n, t hi s m ay j ust b e t h e dr i nk f o r yo u! !

H a i t i a n D i vo r c e Ingredients • • • •

1. 5 oz Ag e d H ai t i a n Rum .75 oz Es p adi n M ezc a l . 5 oz Pe dr o X i m e n ez S h e r r y Two das h e s of A n g o st ur a B i t te r s

Directions I n a m i x i n g g l as s, ad d a ll i n g r e di e nt s a n d st i r we ll w i t h i c e. S t r ai n i nto a r o c ks g l as s w i t h o n e l a r g e i c e c ub e.

Z e st a p e e l of li m e a n d o r a n g e ove r t h e dr i nk , a n d p l ac e i t i nto t h e g l as s.

Enj oy ! !

Got Rum ? June 2 0 2 3 - 22

Got Rum? June 2023 - 23

LI BR A RY Rev i ew s of b o o ks r e l ate d to su g a r c a n e, m i lli n g, fe r m e nt at i o n, di st i ll at i o n, a g i n g, b l e n di n g a n d ot h e r to p i c s r e l ate d to t h e p r o du c t i o n o r hi sto r y of r um. w w w. Rum U ni ve r s i t y.c o m

Got Rum ? June 2 0 2 3 - 24

The Wildcrafted Cocktail: Make Your Own Foraged Syrups, Bitters, Infusions, and Garnishes

by Ellen Zachos (Pub li sh e r ’s Rev i ew) M e et t h e natur al l ove c hil d of t h e p o p ular l o c al - fo o ds m ove m e nt an d c r af t c o c k t ai l s c e n e.

It ’s h e re to sh ow yo u just h ow e asy it i s to m ake d e li c i o us, o n e of- a - k in d mi xe d dr inks w it h c o mm o n f l owe r s, b e r r i e s, r o ot s, an d l e ave s t hat yo u c an f in d al o n g r o adsi d e s o r in yo ur bac k yar d.

Fo r agin g ex p e r t Ell e n Z ac h o s g et s t h e par t y st ar te d w it h r e c ip e s fo r m o re t han 5 0 g ar ni sh e s, sy r up s, inf us i o ns, jui c e s, an d b it te r s, inc lu din g Q ui c k Pi c k l e d D ay lily B u ds, Ro s e H ip S y r up, an d Chante r e ll e inf us e d Rum. Yo u’ll t h e n inc o r p o r ate yo ur han dc r af te d c o m p o n e nt s into 4 5 sur p r i s in g an d de li g ht f ul c o c k t ai l s, suc h as S t in g e r in t h e R ye, D o n’t S as s M e, an d Tre e - t ini.

A b o ut t h e Aut h o r Ell e n Z ac h o s i s an ex p e r t fo r ag e r an d l o n gt im e fo r agin g inst r uc to r. S h e i s t h e aut h o r of s i x b o o ks, inc lu din g T he W i ldc r af ted C o c k ta i l an d B ac k yar d F o r a g i ng. S h e i s c o - h o st of t h e Plant r am a p o dc ast an d c an b e fo un d o nlin e at bac k yar d fo r ag e r. c o m.

Pub li sh e r : S to rey Pub li shin g, LLC (Fe b r uar y 16, 2 0 21) L an guag e: En gli sh Pap e r bac k : 24 0 pag e s IS B N -10: 16 3 5 8 6 416X IS B N -13: 978 -16 3 5 8 6 416 8 Ite m We i g ht: 1.0 2 p o un ds D im e ns i o ns: 6. 5 6 x 0.6 3 x 8 . 5 6 inc h e s

Got Rum? June 2023 - 25

Got Got Rum Rum?? Ju June n e 2023 2 0 2 3 -- 226 6

Your O n e - Stop Shop fo r Ag ed Rum s in Bulk!

• •

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C olumn - D istilled, Pot- D istilled or Blends High C ongener (Inc luding High Ester s), Low C ongener or Blends

•

Aged in A mer ic an or Frenc h Oak Bar rels

•

Aged in Rye W hiskey, Bour bon, Tequila, A r magnac, Por t, Sher r y and W ine Bar rels

•

Single Bar rels and Sec ond Aging / Finish

D istilled in the USA , C entral A mer ic a, South A mer ic a or in the Car ibbean O ver 15 0 M ar ks /St yles Available, plus Custom Blends Low M inimums and Fast Tur naround, Wor ldwide Shipping

w w w.RumCentral.com G Goott R Ruum m?? JJu un e 2 0 2 3 - 2 7

TH E R U M HISTORIA N

by M arc o Pi er ini I was b o r n i n 19 5 4 i n a li t t l e tow n i n Tus c a ny (I t a ly) w h e r e I st i ll li ve. I n my yo ut h, I g ot a d e g r e e i n Phi l o s o p hy i n Fl o r e n c e a n d I st u di e d Po li t i c a l S c i e n c e i n M adr i d, b ut my r e a l p as s i o n h as a l ways b e e n H i sto r y a n d t h r o u g h H i sto r y I h ave a l ways t r i e d to un d e r st a n d t h e wo r l d, a n d m e n. Li fe b r o u g ht m e to wo r k i n to ur i s m, eve nt o r g a niz at i o n a n d vo c at i o n a l t r ai ni n g, t h e n, a lr e ady i n my f i f t i e s I di s c ove r e d r um a n d I fe ll i n l ove w i t h i t .

I h ave v i s i te d di st i ll e r i e s, m et r um p e o p l e, at te n d e d r um Fe st i va l s a n d j o i n e d t h e Rum Fa m i ly. I h ave st u di e d to o, b e c aus e Rum i s n ot o n ly a g r e at di st i ll ate, i t ’s a wo r l d.

Pr o du c e d i n s c o r e s of c o unt r i e s, by t h o us a n ds of c o m p a ni e s, w i t h a n ex t r a o r di n a r y va r i et y of a r o m as a n d f l avo r s, i t i s a f as c i n at i n g f i e l d of st u di e s. I b e g a n to un d e r st a n d s o m et hi n g a b o ut su g a r c a n e, fe r m e nt at i o n, di st i ll at i o n, a g e i n g a n d s o o n.

S o o n, I di s c ove r e d t h at r um h as a l s o a te r r i b l e a n d r i c h H i sto r y, m ad e of voya g e s a n d c o n qu e st s, b l o o d a n d swe at , i m p e r i a l f l e et s a n d r evo lut i o ns. I s o o n r e a lize d t h at t hi s H i sto r y d e s e r ve d to b e r e s e a r c h e d p r o p e r ly a n d I d e c i d e d to d evote mys e l f to i t w i t h a ll my p as s i o n a n d w i t h t h e h e lp of t h e bas i c s c h o l a r ly to o l s I h ad l e a r nt dur i n g my o l d uni ve r s i t y ye a r s.

I n 2 017 I p ub li s h e d t h e b o o k “A MERI CA N RUM – A S h o r t H i sto r y of Rum i n E a r ly A m e r i c a” I n 2 019 I b e g a n to r un a B l o g: w w w. t h e r um hi sto r i a n.c o m I n 2 0 2 0, w i t h my s o n C l au di o, I h ave p ub li s h e d a n ew b o o k “ FREN C H RUM – A H i sto r y 16 3 9 -19 0 2 ”.

I a m c ur r e nt ly d o i n g n ew r e s e a r c h o n t h e H i sto r y of Cuba n Rum.

Got Rum ? June 2 0 2 3 - 28

“D I ST I L L E D ” OR HOW NOT TO WRIT E A BOU T T HE HISTORY O F S PIRITS T hi s m o nt h o ur r e ad e r s w i ll n ot f i n d t h e c usto m a r y a r t i c l e o n t h e hi sto r y of Cuba n r um.

C e r t ai n ly n ot b e c aus e t h e s e r i e s i s ove r, we a r e st i ll j ust at t h e b e g i nni n g, b ut b e c aus e I t h o u g ht i t us ef ul to d e di c ate t hi s m o nt h’s s p ac e to t h e r ev i ew of a b o o k o n s p i r i t s j ust p ub li s h e d: I a n Tat te r s a ll a n d Ro b D e s a ll e’s “D is t i l l e d. A N a tu r a l H is to r y o f S p i r i ts ”, 2 0 2 2 .

T h e aut h o r s a r e t wo e m i n e nt , r e n ow n e d s c i e nt i st s: “ Ro b D e S a ll e i s a c ur ato r at t h e A m e r i c a n M us e um of N at ur a l H i sto r y, N ew Yo r k Ci t y. I a n Tat te r s a ll i s c ur ato r e m e r i t us, di v i s i o n of A nt h r o p o l o g y, A m e r i c a n M us e um of N at ur a l H i sto r y.”

T h e t wo a r e a l s o w i n e e nt hus i ast s a n d a few ye a r s a g o t h ey p ub li s h e d “A N a tu r a l H is to r y o f W i ne ” a n d, l ate r, “A N a tu r a l H is to r y o f B e er.” I r e ad t h e f i r st o n e a n d I like d i t . I a m n ot a w i n e ex p e r t , eve n t h o u g h I dr i nk i t r e g ul a r ly, a n d as f a r as I c a n te ll i t i s a n exc e ll e nt wo r k , f ull of i nf o r m at i o n a n d r ef l e c t i o ns, as we ll as s k i l f ully w r i t te n.

Te lm o Pi eva ni i s a n e m i n e nt p hi l o s o p h e r of s c i e n c e a n d i s p a r t of a l a r g e i nte r n at i o n a l

te a m of s c i e nt i st s st u dy i n g evo lut i o n; h e i s a l s o a g r e at s c i e nt i f i c p o p ulize r, ve r y we ll k n ow n i n my n at i ve c o unt r y, It a ly. I n a n i nte r v i ew w i t h I a n Tat te r s a ll h e m e nt i o ns hi s n ew b o o k a b o ut s p i r i t s.

Pl e as a nt ly sur p r i s e d, I s e a r c h e d f o r t h e b o o k a n d b o u g ht i t r i g ht away: at l ast , r e a l s c i e nt i st s d e di c ate t h e m s e l ve s to o ur f avo r i te to p i c . W h e n t h e b o o k a r r i ve d, I di s c ove r e d t h at , i n ad di t i o n to t h e t wo m ai n aut h o r s, ot h e r ac ad e m i c s h ad c o ll a b o r ate d o n i n di v i du a l c h a pte r s. M o r e ove r, t hi s b o o k i s p ub li s h e d by t h e aut h o r i t at i ve Ya l e U ni ve r s i t y Pr e s s, a n d i t i s a b e aut i f ul o b j e c t to o: qu a li t y p a p e r, g o o d b i n di n g, b e aut i f ul d e s i g ns; i n s h o r t , eve r y t hi n g.

A l s o, I c o nfe s s t h at I was f i ll e d w i t h p r i d e w h e n I s aw o n e of my “ GOT RUM? ” a r t i c l e s m e nt i o n e d i n t h e b i b li o g r a p hy.

B ut t h e n I r e ad i t a n d eve r y t hi n g c h a n g e d….

I n a nut s h e ll, t h e aut h o r s k n ow li t t l e, a n d badly, a b o ut s p i r i t s, a n d eve n l e s s a b o ut t h e i r hi sto r y. U nf o r t un ate ly, i t s e e m s to m e t h at t h ey k n ow hi sto r y i n g e n e r a l li t t l e a n d badly. T h e r e a r e i nte r e st i n g p a r t s, b ut a l s o m a ny ba n a li t i e s a n d a b ove a ll m a ny g r o s s m i st ake s. A n d I g ot a n g r y. It i s n ot r i g ht to w r i te s o s l ove n ly a b o ut s p i r i t s, eve n l e s s i f i t i s d o n e by e m i n e nt s c i e nt i st s a n d i f t h e tex t i s p ub li s h e d by a n aut h o r i t at i ve p ub li s hi n g h o us e.

T h e r e a r e s o m e p o s i t i ve t hi n g s. T h e c l a r i f i c at i o n o n t h e t aste of et h a n o l i s un d o ubte dly us ef ul, i t ex p l ai ns mu c h of t h e p l e asur e of dr i nk i n g s p i r i t s: “et h a n o l i s f a r f r o m b e i n g a t aste l e s s sub st a n c e, as i s of te n b e li eve d. I nste ad, o n c e i t r i s e s a b ove a c o n c e nt r at i o n of a b o ut 2 0 p e r c e nt by vo lum e, we ll a b ove a ny t hi n g yo u wo ul d ex p e c t to f i n d i n a c o nve nt i o n a l b e e r o r w i n e, i t i m p a r t s subt ly b i t te r swe et a n d uni qu e ly m o ut h - f i lli n g qu a li t y t h at h as yet to b e r e p li c ate d by a ny ot h e r sub st a n c e.”

T h e r e i s a l s o s o m e i nte r e st i n g i nf o r m at i o n a b o ut w h at m i g ht h a p p e n i n t h e n e a r f ut ur e: “ T h e n ot i o n of sy nt h e s izi n g a p r o du c t to r e p l ac e t h e a l c o h o l t h at h as t r adi t i o n a lly b e e n di st i ll e d b r i n g s us to t h e sub j e c t of sy nt h et i c a l c o h o l sub st i t ute s. … i f a sy nt h et i c sub st a n c e c o ul d b e p r o du c e d

t h at m i m i c s t h e ef fe c t of a l c o h o l w i t h o ut i t s s i d e ef fe c t s, m a ny of t h e unwa nte d ef fe c t s of a l c o h o l wo ul d di s a p p e a r. … Eve n b et te r, a nt i d ote s c o ul d b e adm i ni st r ate d to c o unte r t h e i r i n e b r i at i n g ef fe c t s, a ll ow i n g o n e to h o p i n o n e’s c a r a n d s afe ly dr i ve h o m e af te r a ni g ht of dr i nk i n g.”

B ut t h e n t h e r e a r e m a ny t hi n g s t h at a r e w r o n g. T h ey a r e to o m a ny to li st a ll of t h e m, I w i ll d we ll j ust o n t h e m o st g l a r i n g e r r o r s, s i m p ly i n o r d e r of a p p e a r a n c e.

A b o ut t h e C o lum n S t i ll, t h ey ev i d e nt ly d o n’ t k n ow t h at t h e Fr e n c h e n g i n e e r J e a n - B a pt i ste C e lli e r- B lum e nt h a l, a n d n ot Ae n e as C of fey, i nve nte d t h e f i r st c o nt i nu o us ly wo r k i n g di st i ll at i o n c o lum n a n d p ate nte d i t i n 1813 . T h ey g o o n to w r i te: “ T h e b i g p hys i c a l c o nt r ast b et we e n t h e p ot st i ll a n d t h e C of fey st i ll s i s t h e t a ll t wo - di st i lli n g - c o lum n s et up i n t h e C of fey st i ll, ve r sus t h e s i n g l e a n d usu a lly b ulb o us di st i lli n g ve s s e l of t h e p ot st i ll. … m o st s p i r i t s c ate g o r i e s o n t h e m a r ket to day m ay

Got Rum? June 2023 - 29

b e m ad e o n e i t h e r k i n d of st i ll; a n d t h e r e a r e n ow ‘ hy b r i d ’ st i ll s t h at m ake t h e o r i g i n a l d ef i ni t i o ns a n d r ul e s a ll t h e m o r e c o nf us i n g.”

Fa l s e. A s i f t h e di f fe r e n c e b et we e n Pot a n d C o lum n st i ll we r e m e r e ly a m at te r of d e s i g n. Re g a r di n g t hi s I t hi nk i t i s b et te r to r e ad a g ai n R i c h a r d S e a l ’s “Aeneas C o f fey, J o h n D o r e a nd F o u r s qua r e ”, RUM DI A RIES B LOG , Fe b r u a r y 9, 2 0 21. “ T h e di c h oto my i s n ot p ot st i ll vs c o lum n st i ll b ut batc h st i ll vs c o nt i nu o us st i ll. A ll st i ll d e s i g ns f a ll i nto o n e of t h e l at te r t wo c ate g o r i e s. T h e ad di t i o n of f r ac t i o n at i o n o r e nh a n c e d r e c t i f i c at i o n to a batc h st i ll i s st i ll a batc h st i ll. T h e s i m p l e batc h st i ll r e li e s s o l e ly o n t h e ly n e a r m f o r r e c t i f i c at i o n. Enh a n c i n g t hi s ef fe c t d o e s n ot c h a n g e t h e f un da m e nt a l n at ur e of t h e st i ll. … A batc h st i ll w i ll p r o du c e a c h a n g i n g o ut p ut ove r t i m e (c o ll o qui a lly t h e h e ads, t h e n h e a r t s, t h e n t ai l s) f r o m a s i n g l e c h a r g e (batc h) t h at i t s e l f c h a n g e s as i t i s di st i ll e d. A c o nt i nu o us st i ll p r o du c e s a n un c h a n g e d o ut p ut t h at va r i e s by p o s i t i o n (n ot by t i m e) o n a n un c h a n g i n g c h a r g e t h at i s fe d c o nt i nu o us ly. H e ads, h e a r t s, t ai l s a r e dr aw n of f s i mult a n e o us ly f r o m di f fe r e nt p o s i t i o ns.

T hi s i s t h e f un da m e nt a l di st i n c t i o n b et we e n t h e t wo p r o c e s s e s w hi c h a l s o ex p l ai ns w hy t h e t wo c a n n eve r m ake t h e i d e nt i c a l s p i r i t . …E a r ly c o lum n s h a p e d st i ll s (e.g. t h e c o lum n Pi sto r i us st i ll) s h o ul d n ot b e c o nf us e d w i t h a c o lum n o r c o nt i nu o us st i ll, i t was a batc h st i ll a n d t h e S ava ll e o r C e lli e r B lum e nt a l st i ll s a r e n ot f i t te d w i t h “a p ot st i ll ” j ust b e c aus e t h ey h ad a p ot s h a p e d bas e / ket t l e – t h e r e we r e i n f ac t c o nt i nu o us (o r c o lum n) st i ll s.”

Let ’s g o o n. Ac c o r di n g to o ur aut h o r s, A r n a l d of V i ll a nu eva (12 3 3 -1312) “ was t h e e a r li e st Eur o p e a n aut h o r to r efe r to s p i r i t s as a qua v i tae (wate r of li fe), a n d to d e s c r i b e t h e m as ‘ t h e e s s e n c e of w i n e’. H e a l s o p r ov i d e d t h e f i r st d et ai l e d i nst r u c t i o ns f o r di st i ll at i o n” Fa l s e. I f t h ey h ad r e ad Fo r b e s, o r eve n s o m e of my a r t i c l e s of t h e s e r i e s T HE ORIGIN O F A LC OHOLI C DISTILL ATION IN T HE WEST, t h ey wo ul d k n ow t h at eve n b ef o r e V i ll a nu eva, t h e r e was a g r e at p r o li fe r at i o n of aut h o r s a n d wo r ks di s c us s i n g t h e di st i ll at i o n of w i n e a n d t h e p r o du c t i o n of a qua v i tae f o r m e di c i n a l p ur p o s e s. Fo r i nst a n c e, t h e Fr a n c i s c a n f r i a r B o n ave nt ur a D a I s e o, w h o di e d i n 128 0, st a n ds o ut a m o n g t h o s e w i t h hi s “L i b er C o m p o s t i l l e ”. A g r e at f r i e n d of

Got Rum ? June 2 0 2 3 - 30

A lb e r t us M a g nus, c l o s e to Ro g e r B ac o n a n d i n c o nt ac t w i t h t h e yo un g T h o m as Aqui n as, a n d t h e r ef o r e i n to u c h w i t h t h e g r e ate st m i n ds of t h e t i m e, t h e f r i a r d e s c r i b e d t h e num e r o us m e di c i n a l wate r s t h at we r e by t h at t i m e c o m m o n ly us e d i n m e di c i n e, i n c lu di n g t h e p r o du c t i o n of a l c o h o l, w i t h di st i ll at i o n of b ot h e s s e n c e s f o r m ak i n g r o s ewate r a n d w i n e f o r t h e p r o du c t i o n of a qua v i tae. T h ey h ave n’ t h e a r d of Tad d e o A l d e r ot t i e i t h e r (c i r c a 1210 12 9 6), t h e m o st f a m o us p hys i c i a n of hi s a g e, w h o w i t h hi s wo r k C o ns i l ia m ad e k n ow n to t h e g e n e r a l p ub li c t h e te r m a qua v i tae, i t s us e s i n m e di c i n e a n d h ow to di st i l i t .

O n e t hi n g t h at r e a lly st r u c k m e i s t h at t h e aut h o r s d o n ot k n ow t h e c l as s i c , f un da m e nt a l wo r k by R . J. Fo r b e s “S h o r t H is to r y o f th e A r t o f D is t i l la t i o n ”. Yet , o n e of t h e i r s o ur c e s, N o r b e r t Ko c k m a nn, i n hi s “H is to r y o f D is t i l la t i o n ” 2 014, w r i te s c l e a r ly t h at “ To g et a w i d e r p i c t ur e, h oweve r, i t i s a l s o n e c e s s a r y to c o nsult t h e s e c o n da r y li te r at ur e. Ro b e r t Fo r b e s (19 4 3) g i ve s a n ex te ns i ve i llust r at i o n of t h e hi sto r y of t h e a r t of di st i ll at i o n unt i l 18 4 0 a n d t h e d e at h of C e lli e r- B lum e nt h a l.”

A n d h e r e i s a r e a l b l o o p e r ; at t h e b e g i nni n g of c h a pte r 7 S PIRIT T REES, t h ey w r i te: “ Fo r t hi s c h a pte r we j ust h ad to t r y t h e G r a n d D ad dy of a ll N ew Wo r l d s p i r i t s: a r r ac k o r i g i n ate d o n t h e e a r ly Po r t u g u e s e p l a nt at i o ns i n t h e C a n a r y I s l a n ds.”

D o u b l y f a l s e. Fi r st : A r r ac k i s n ot “ t h e G r a n d D ad dy of a ll N ew Wo r l d s p i r i t s”. A r r ac k (a r ak , r ak i, r ak i j a, etc) i s a n O l d Wo r l d wo r d t h at i n m o st of A s i a i n di c ate d, a n d st i ll i n di c ate s, s p i r i t s i n g e n e r a l. “ B at av i a A r r ac k ”, w h o s e l a b e l t h ey s h ow, i s p r o du c e d (p r o ba b ly f r o m r i c e a n d su g a r c a n e) p r e c i s e ly i n B at av i a, t h at i s, p r e s e nt day J ava a n d n ot i n t h e C a n a r y I s l a n ds. S e c o n d: t h e r e we r e n o “e a r ly Po r t u g u e s e p l a nt at i o ns i n t h e C a n a r y I s l a n d s” !

T h e C a n a r y I s l a n ds we r e c o l o nize d by t h e S p a ni s h, n ot by t h e Po r t u g u e s e, a n d t h ey a r e st i ll a p a r t of S p ai n, as c a n b e s e e n i n a ny m a p.

Let ’s n ow g et to c h a pte r 14 RUM (A ND CAC H AÇA) by S us a n Pe r k i ns a n d M i g u e l A . Ac eve d o “ S u g a r r e m ai n e d a n ex t r e m e ly p r e c i o us c o m m o di t y, h oweve r, b e c aus e t h e towe r i n g g r as s c o ul d o n ly b e g r ow n i n wet , t r o p i c a l c li m ate ve r y f a r f r o m Eur o p e.”

Fa l s e. B ef o r e t h e di s c ove r y a n d c o l o niz at i o n of t h e At l a nt i c I s l a n ds, su g a r c a n e was w i d e ly c ult i vate d a n d su g a r p r o du c e d i n C y p r us, S i c i ly a n d S p ai n. O n ly t h e d eve l o p m e nt of t h e A m e r i c a n p l a nt at i o ns p ut S i c i li a n su g a r o ut of b us i n e s s f o r g o o d, w h e r e as i n S p ai n su g a r c a n e c ult i vat i o n c o nt i nu e d unt i l j ust a few ye a r s a g o. I n d e e d, i n s o ut h e r n S p ai n t h e l ast z af r a was i n 2 0 0 6 .

L ate r i n t h e s a m e c h a pte r, “ C o lum n di st i lli n g a ll ow s f o r n e a r- c o nt i nu o us p r o du c t i o n a n d w i ll y i e l d a s i g ni f i c a nt ly m o r e c o ns i ste nt p r o du c t , w i t h f a r l e s s e n e r g y waste d. T h e p r o c e s s was p ate nte d by Ae n e as C of fey i n 18 3 0 a n d i nvo l ve d t wo c o nn e c te d c o lum ns.

Eve nt u a lly t h e s e t wo - c o lum ns st i ll s g ave r i s e to m o r e c o m p l ex st i ll s w i t h t h r e e o r m o r e c o lum n, y i e l di n g m o r e c o m p l ex a n d i n di v i du a l r um s.”

Fa l s e. A s m e nt i o n e d a b ove, J e a n - B a pt i ste C e lli e r- B lum e nt h a l, a n d n ot Ae n e as C of fey, i nve nte d t h e f i r st c o nt i nu o us ly wo r k i n g di st i ll at i o n c o lum n a n d p ate nte d i t i n 1813 .

B e s i d e s, as i s we ll k n ow n, c o lum n st i ll s di d n ot p r o du c e “ m o r e c o m p l ex a n d i n di v i du a l r um s”, b ut , o n t h e c o nt r a r y, a m o r e “ n e ut r a l ” s p i r i t . S e e t h e p r o c e e di n g s of T HE ROYA L C OMMISSION ON WHIS K E Y A ND OT HER P OTA B LE S PIRITS (19 0 8) i n J a nu a r y to M ay 2 0 2 0 i s su e s of “ GOT RUM? ”.

A n d a g ai n: “ Rum i s n ow su c c e s s f ully p r o du c e d i n m o r e t h a n t hi r t y c o unt r i e s a r o un d t h e wo r l d, b ut i t s h o m e bas e a n d t h e c e nte r of i t s i d e nt i t y i s f i r m ly i n t h e C a r i b b e a n.”

Fa l s e. Rum i s n ow p r o du c e d i n m a ny m o r e c o unt r i e s, a r o un d a hun dr e d, i n c lu di n g, j ust to g i ve a few exa m p l e s, t h e US A , S c ot l a n d, D e nm a r k a n d a l s o I t a ly. T h e l a r g e st r um p r o du c i n g c o unt r i e s a r e I n di a a n d t h e Phi li p p i n e s.

Re g a r di n g Cuba, “ I n 176 2, h oweve r, t h e B r i t i s h b r i ef ly o c c up i e d t h e c o unt r y, n ot eve n f o r a f ull ye a r b ut l o n g e n o u g h to i nt r o du c e r um p r o du c t i o n, w hi c h was c o nt i nu e d w h e n S p ai n r e sum e d i t s c o m m a n d.”

Fa l s e. Rum was a lr e ady l a r g e ly p r o du c e d i n Cuba we ll b ef o r e t h e B r i t i s h o c c up at i o n, as I d e m o nst r ate d i n t h e a r t i c l e s of t h e s e r i e s HISTORY O F CU B A N RUM .

A n d, “ B r a zi l was t h e m o st i m p o r t a nt p r o du c e r of su g a r a n d i t s fe r m e nte d d e r i vat i ve s i n t h e s i x te e nt h c e nt ur y, w i t h D utc h s et t l e r s c o nt r o lli n g p r o du c t i o n. D ur i n g t h e Pe r n a m b u c o i nsur r e c t i o n of 1817, t h e D utc h we r e ex p e ll e d f r o m B r a zi l a n d s et t l e d i n C a r i b b e a n i s l a n ds.”

Fa l s e. T h e D utc h We st I n di a C o m p a ny o c c up i e d t h e n o r t h e aste r n c o ast a l r e g i o n of B r a zi l (m o r e o r l e s s, p r e s e nt day st ate of Pe r n a m b u c o, c a p i t a l Re c i fe) i n 16 24 a n d we r e d ef i ni t i ve ly ex p e ll e d i n 16 5 4.

L ast b ut n ot l e ast , i n o n e of t h e l ast c h a pte r s we f i n d t h at M a r i e B r iz a r d m a r kete d t h e f i r st a ni s et te i n 175 5 . “ S adly, t h e s p i r i t of i nn ovat i o n us h e r e d i n by M a r i e’s p r o du c t was sum m a r i ly s nu f fe d o ut by t h e 1787 Fr e n c h Revo lut i o n, w hi c h p ut a n e n d to eve r y t hi n g t h at m i g ht h ave b e e n c o ns i d e r e d a lu x ur y.”

We l l, t h e c l ai m t h at t h e Fr e n c h Revo lut i o n “ p ut a n e n d to eve r y t hi n g t h at m i g ht h ave b e e n c o ns i d e r e d a lu x ur y ” i s hi g h ly qu e st i o n a b l e.

Fo r exa m p l e, su g a r a n d r um c o nsum pt i o n b e c a m e w i d e s p r e ad i n Fr a n c e r i g ht dur i n g t h e Revo lut i o n. B ut , m o st i m p o r t a nt ly, I d o n ot k n ow of a ny Fr e n c h Revo lut i o n i n 1787, w hi l e I k n ow of o n e, a n d of s o m e i m p o r t a n c e, i n 178 9.

I t hi nk t h at ’s e n o u g h. I ’d like to r e p e at w h at I w r ote at t h e b e g i nni n g: i t i s n ot r i g ht to w r i te s o badly a b o ut s p i r i t s, a n d eve n l e s s i f t h o s e w h o d o a r e e m i n e nt s c i e nt i st s a n d i f t h e b o o k i s p ub li s h e d by a n aut h o r i t at i ve p ub li s hi n g h o us e. I t ’s a l ac k of r e s p e c t towa r ds o ur w h o l e wo r l d, b ut eve n m o r e towa r ds hum a n k n ow l e d g e i n g e n e r a l.

We li ve i n a c o m p li c ate d wo r l d, di f f i c ult to un d e r st a n d a n d t h e p r o b l e m of c o r r e c t i nf o r m at i o n a n d f ake n ew s i s un d e r eve r yo n e’s eye s. B ut i n t hi s c as e, t h e r e a r e n o m a j o r e c o n o m i c o r p o li t i c a l i nte r e st s at st ake; t h e r e i s t h e r ef o r e n o i nte r e st o n t h e p a r t of a nyo n e i n m a ni p ul at i n g t h e i nf o r m at i o n o r s p r e a di n g w r o n g i nf o r m at i o n to g ai n ad va nt a g e s. We ll, i f n ot eve n i n t hi s c as e, w h e n t h e w r i te r s a r e p r e st i g i o us ac ad e m i c s a n d t h e i r wo r k i s p ub li s h e d by a m a j o r p ub li s hi n g h o us e, we c a n t r ust w h at we r e ad, t h e n o ur f ut ur e wo r r i e s m e, a l ot .

M a r c o Pi e r i ni

Got Rum? June 2023 - 31

Unt il The

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END Join u s a s we exp lo re t h e f a scinat ing wo r l d of b i t t e r f l avo r s and t h eir ro l e in g a st rono my, mixolo g y and h eal t h.

Pre sent e d by

Got Rum ? June 2 0 2 3 - 32

Got Rum? June 2023 - 33

Until The

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END S c i e n c e h a s c l a s s i f i e d f l avo r s i nt o f i ve m a i n g r o u p s , a s p e r c e i ve d by o u r t o n g u e s . T h e s e g r o u p s a r e: S we et , S o u r, S a l t y, B i t te r a n d - m o s t r e c e nt l y - U m a m i.

M o s t f o o d s a n d b eve r a g e s h ave a c o m b i n at i o n o f f l avo r i n g c o m p o u n d s t h a t g i ve t h e m t h e i r p a r t i c u l a r “ f o o t p r i nt ,” t h a t c a n e n c o m p a s s s eve r a l o f t h e s e f l avo r g r o u p s . T h i s n ew s e r i e s i s d evote d t o t h e B i t te r f l avo r, a n d t o i t s i m p a c t o n o u r eve r yd ay l i f e.

Evo l u t i o n a r y s c i e nt i s t s s u g g e s t t h a t t h e a b i l i t y t o d ete c t b i t te r n e s s evo l ve d a s a way t o p r ote c t

Got Rum ? June 2 0 2 3 - 34

u s f r o m t ox i c p l a nt s a n d ot h e r s u b s t a n c e s , w h i c h o f te n t a s te b i t te r. A l t h o u g h i t g et s a b a d r a p, b i t te r n e s s c a n b e u s e d t o c r e ate we l l - r o u n d e d a n d d e s i r a b l e f l avo r p a l ate s . Yo u m ay n ot b e awa r e o f i t , b u t b i t te r n e s s i s p r e s e nt i n m a ny o f o u r f avo r i te f o o d s i n c l u d i n g c h o c o l ate, c o f f e e, wine and barrel-aged spirits.

W h a t d o e s t h e w o r d “ B i t t e r ” m e a n?

M e r r i a m - We b s te r d i c t i o n a r y d ef i n e s t h e w o r d b i t te r (w h e n u s e d a s a n a d j e c t i ve) a s: b e i n g , i n d u c i n g , o r m a r ke d by t h e o n e o f t h e f i ve b as i c tas te s e ns a t i o ns t h a t i s p e c u l i a r ly a c r i d , as t r i n g e n t , a n d o f te n d i s a g r e ea b l e a n d c h a r a c te r i s t i c o f c i t r us p e e l s , u ns we e te n e d c o c o a , b l a c k c o f f e e, m a tu r e l ea f y g r e e ns (s u c h as ka l e o r m us ta r d ), o r a l e. T h e o r i g i n o f t h e w o r d g o e s b a c k t o M i d d l e En g l i s h, f r o m O l d En g l i s h b i te r, g o i n g b a c k t o G e r m a n i c *b i t r a (w h e n c e O l d S a xo n & O l d H i g h G e r m a n b i t t a r “ a c r i d - t a s t i n g,” O l d N o r s e b i t r “ b i t i n g, s h a r p” ) a n d *b a i t r a - (w h e n c e G ot h i c b a i t r s “ s h a r p - t a s t i n g ” ), d e r i vat i ve s f r o m t h e b a s e o f *b ī ta n - “ t o b i te.”

H o w D o e s “ B i t t e r ” A c t u a l l y Ta s t e?

B i t te r n e s s i s n e i t h e r s a l t y n o r s o u r, b u t m ay at t i m e s a c c o m p a ny t h e s e f l avo r s e n s at i o n s .

M a ny p e o p l e a r e i n n a te l y o p p o s e d t o b i t te r f l avo r s , b u t a l i k i n g f o r i t c a n a n d i s a c q u i r e d.

C o m p o u n d s t h a t h ave a n a l k a l i n e p H , s u c h a s b a k i n g s o d a , o f te n h ave a b i t te r f l avo r.

S c i e nt i f i c r e s e a r c h h a s f o u n d t h a t s o m e h u m a n s a r e m o r e s e n s i t i ve t o b i t te r f l avo r s t h a n ot h e r s .1 T h e s e i n d i v i d u a l s a r e r ef e r r e d t o a s “ s u p e r t a s te r s” a n d a r e o f te n o f A s i a n, A f r i c a n, o r S o u t h A m e r i c a n d e s c e nt .

B e i n g a s u p e r t a s te r m ay ex p l a i n w hy s o m e i n d i v i d u a l s f i n d t h e f l avo r o f ve g et a b l e s h i g h l y d i s a g r e e a b l e. M o s t ve g et a b l e s c o nt a i n a t l e a s t s o m e b i t te r n e s s , e s p e c i a l l y w h e n r aw.

B i t t e r Fo o d s D a r k , l e a f y g r e e n s a r e we l l k n o w n f o r t h e i r b i t te r f l avo r. G r e e n l e a f y ve g et a b l e s o f te n i n c r e a s e i n b i t te r n e s s a s t h ey m a t u r e. Fo r t h i s r e a s o n, m a ny p e o p l e p r ef e r te n d e r yo u n g g r e e n s t o t h e i r m o r e m a t u r e - a n d b i t te rc o u nte r p a r t s . B i t te r g r e e n ve g et a b l e s i n c l u d e k a l e, d a n d e l i o n g r e e n s a n d b r o c c o l i.

C o c o a i s a n ot h e r f o o d t h a t i s e n j oye d f o r i t s b i t te r f l avo r. P u r e c o c o a h a s a d i s t i n c t b i t te r n e s s , w h i c h c a n b e u s e d t o b a l a n c e f l avo r s l i ke s we et o r s p i c y i n o t h e r f o o d s .

A d d i n g s u g a r a n d c r e a m t o c o c o a s i g n i f i c a nt l y r e d u c e s i t s b i t te r n e s s , m a k i n g i t m o r e p a l at a b l e.

L i kew i s e, b l a c k c o f f e e c a n b e q u i te b i t te r.

Although sugar and cream can be added to r e d u c e t h e b i t te r n e s s , m a ny g r o w t o e n j oy t h e s h a r p f l avo r o f b l a c k c o f f e e. T h e t y p e o f b e a n a n d t h e u n i q u e r o a s t i n g m et h o d w i l l a l s o i m p a c t c o f f e e’s l eve l o f b i t te r n e s s .

C i t r u s p e e l s a r e we l l k n o w n f o r i t s b i t te r n e s s , m o s t o f w h i c h r e s i d e s i n t h e w h i te p i t h. A s w i t h m o s t b i t te r f l avo r s , i t c a n b e u n d e s i r a b l e o n i t s o w n, b u t w h e n c o m b i n e d w i t h ot h e r f l avo r e l e m e nt s , i t c a n p r ov i d e d i m e n s i o n a n d b a l a n c e. O t h e r f r u i t s a n d ve g et a b l e s t h at m ay p r ov i d e b i t te r f l avo r s m ay i n c l u d e g r a p ef r u i t , b i t te r m e l o n, m u s t a r d g r e e n s , a n d o l i ve s .

B eve r a g e s s u c h a s t o n i c wate r, b i t te r s , a n d m ate te a a r e a l l a l s o c o n s i d e r e d b i t te r. B ef o r e s hy i n g away f r o m b i t te r i n g r e d i e nt s i n t h e f u t u r e, ex p l o r e h o w t h ey c a n b e c o m b i n e d w i t h c o m p l i m e nt a r y t a s te s t o b u i l d a c o m p l ex a n d e n j oya b l e f l avo r p r o f i l e.

J o i n u s , a s we ex p l o r e t h e w o n d e r f u l w o r l d o f B i t te r a n d B i t te r n e s s!

Got Rum? June 2023 - 35

Until The

B IT TER

END Featured Ingredient: Cinchona Bark Scientific Name: Cinchona of ficinalis C i nc h o na i s a g e nus of f l owe r i n g p l a nt s i n t h e f a m i ly Rub i ac e ae c o nt ai ni n g at l e ast 2 3 s p e c i e s of t r e e s a n d s h r ub s. A ll a r e n at i ve to t h e t r o p i c a l A n d e a n f o r e st s of we ste r n S o ut h A m e r i c a. A few s p e c i e s a r e r e p o r te dly n at ur a lize d i n C e nt r a l A m e r i c a, J a m ai c a, Fr e n c h Po ly n e s i a, S ul awe s i, S ai nt H e l e n a i n t h e S o ut h At l a nt i c , a n d S ã o To m é a n d Pr ín c i p e of f t h e c o ast of t r o p i c a l A f r i c a, a n d ot h e r s h ave b e e n c ult i vate d i n I n di a a n d J ava, w h e r e t h ey h ave f o r m e d hy b r i ds.

Ci n c h o n a h as b e e n hi sto r i c a lly s o u g ht af te r f o r i t s m e di c i n a l va lu e, as t h e ba r k of s eve r a l s p e c i e s y i e l ds qui ni n e a n d ot h e r a lka l o i ds. T h e s e we r e t h e o n ly ef fe c t i ve t r e at m e nt s a g ai nst m a l a r i a dur i n g t h e h e i g ht of Eur o p e a n c o l o ni a li s m, w hi c h m ad e t h e m of g r e at e c o n o m i c a n d p o li t i c a l i m p o r t a n c e. Tr e e s i n t h e g e nus a r e a l s o k n ow n as fever tr e es b e c aus e of t h e i r a nt i m a l a r i a l p r o p e r t i e s.

T h e b i r t h of h o m e o p at hy was bas e d o n c i n c h o n a ba r k te st i n g. T h e f o un d e r of h o m e o p at hy, S a mu e l H a hn e m a nn, w h e n t r a ns l at i n g W i lli a m Cull e n’s M ate r i a m e di c a, n ot i c e d Cull e n h ad w r i t te n t h at Pe r u v i a n ba r k was k n ow n to c ur e i nte r m i t te nt feve r s.[ 3 5 ] H a hn e m a nn to o k dai ly a l a r g e, r at h e r t h a n h o m e o p at hi c , d o s e of Pe r u v i a n ba r k . A f te r t wo we e ks, h e s ai d h e fe lt m a l a r i a - like sy m pto m s. T hi s i d e a of “ like c ur e s like” was t h e st a r t i n g p o i nt of hi s w r i t i n g s o n h o m e o p at hy.

(S o u r c e: ht t p s: // w w w.w i k i p e d i a .c o m)

Got Rum ? June 2 0 2 3 - 36

D i d Yo u K n ow T h a t . . .

•

Ci n c h o n a i s us e d f o r i n c r e as i n g a p p et i te; p r o m ot i n g t h e r e l e as e of di g e st i ve j ui c e s; a n d t r e at i n g b l o at i n g, f ulln e s s, a n d ot h e r sto m ac h p r o b l e m s.

I t i s a l s o us e d f o r b l o o d ve s s e l di s o r d e r s i n c lu di n g h e m o r r h o i ds, va r i c o s e ve i ns, a n d l e g c r a m p s.

•

S o m e p e o p l e us e c i n c h o n a f o r m i l d i nf lu e nz a, sw i n e f lu, t h e c o m m o n c o l d, m a l a r i a, a n d feve r. O t h e r us e s a r e f o r c a n c e r, m o ut h a n d t h r o at di s e as e s, e n l a r g e d s p l e e n, a n d mus c l e c r a m p s.

•

Ci n c h o n a i s a l s o us e d i n eye l ot i o ns to num b p ai n, k i ll g e r m s, a n d as a n ast r i n g e nt . Ci n c h o n a ex t r ac t i s a l s o a p p li e d to t h e s k i n f o r h e m o r r h o i ds, ul c e r s, st i mul at i n g h ai r g r ow t h, a n d m a n a g i n g va r i c o s e ve i ns.

•

I n f o o ds, c i n c h o n a i s us e d as a b i t te r f l avo r i n g i n to ni c wate r a n d a l c o h o li c b eve r a g e s.

(S o u r c e: ht t p s: // w w w.we b m d.c o m)

Got Rum? June 2023 - 37

Until The

B IT TER

END Featured Bitters Recipe: “Advanced” Bitters I n t h e J a nu a r y i s su e of t hi s s e r i e s, we c ove r e d a “ b e g i nn e r ’s” ve r s i o n of A n g o st ur a B i t te r s. By n ow yo u s h o ul d b e m o r e f a m i li a r w i t h t h e di f fe r e nt b ot a ni c a l i n g r e di e nt s a n d w i t h t h e di f fe r e nt ex t r ac t i o n m et h o ds, s o we’r e r e ady to l o o k at a m o r e “ad va n c e d ” r e c i p e: • • • • • • • •

1 t s p. G e nt i a n Ro ot 1/4 C. Ci n c h o n a B a r k , c h o p p e d 1/ 2 C. W h o l e C l ove s 1/4 C. W h o l e C a r da m o m 6 to 8 S t i c ks of Ci nn a m o n 2 T b s p. W h o l e A ll s p i c e B e r r i e s 4 0 0 m l (a p p r ox i m ate ly 13 . 5 oz.)

O ve r p r o of W hi te Rum o r ot h e r N e ut r a l Spirit 2 to 4 C. of Wate r f o r f i n a l di lut i o n

Pl ac e t h e g e nt i a n a n d c i n c h o n a i n o n e j a r a n d a ll s p i c e s i n a n ot h e r. D i v i d e t h e Eve r c l e a r eve n ly b et we e n t h e j a r s. S e a l a n d s h ake t h e j a r s, a n d te st t h e s c e nt eve r y day o r s o. A ll ow t h e i n g r e di e nt s to i nf us e f o r a b o ut f o ur to s i x days, c h e c k i n g f o r a ba l a n c e d s c e nt .

Fi lte r t h e s o li ds o ut w h e n d o n e a n d sto r e b i t te r s i n a f r e s h dr o p p e r b ot t l e. Us e t h e wate r to di lute yo ur b i t te r s i f i t c o m e s o ut ove r p owe r i n g.

Got Rum ? June 2 0 2 3 - 38

Got Rum? June 2023 - 39

Ru m i n t h e new s

by M ike Kun et ka

A PPL E TO N E STAT E

T h e s e a r e t h e m o s t r e c e nt a n d n o tew o r t hy h e a d l i n e s i n t h e r u m i n d u s t r y. I f yo u wa nt u s t o s h a r e yo u r n ew s w i t h o u r r e a d e r s , p l e a s e s e n d m e a n e m a i l t o: M i ke @ g o t r u m .c o m.

Got Rum ? June 2 0 2 3 - 40

Last month, Appleton Estate announced the launch of t h e l i m i t e d - e d i t i o n 17-Ye a r- O l d L e g e n d , a n exc l u s i ve a n d f a i t h f u l r e c r e a t i o n o f t h e l e g e n d a r y 17-Ye a r- O l d r u m c r a f t e d by J . Wr ay & N e p h e w o n t h e E s t a t e i n t h e 19 4 0 ’s . T h e J . Wr ay & N e p h e w 17-Ye a r- O l d i s known around the world as the storied inspiration f o r t h e c r e a t i o n o f t h e M a i Ta i c o c k t a i l . L e g e n d h a s i t t h a t t h i s exq u i s i t e s p i r i t c a u g h t t h e i m a g i n a t i o n o f o n e n o t a b l e b a r t e n d e r i n p a r t i c u l a r, V i c t o r B e r g e r o n , f o u n d e r o f t h e f a m o u s Tr a d e r V i c ’s b a r i n S a n Fr a n c i s c o. W h i l e ex p e r i m e n t i n g w i t h f r i e n d s , i t ’s s a i d t h a t h e r e a c h e d f o r a b o t t l e o f t h e 17-Ye a r- O l d r u m , b l e n d e d by J . Wr ay & N e p h e w, w h i c h w o u l d b e c o m e h i s r u m o f c h o i c e. M e d i u m - b o d i e d , b e a u t i f u l , a n d g o l d e n , t h e h u e s w e r e evo c a t i ve o f t h e J a m a i c a n s u n . P r o t e c t i ve t o n o t ove r p o w e r t h i s s p e c i a l b l e n d , Victor paired it with a subtle range of ingredients, t o c o m p l e m e n t t h e r u m’s t o p n o t e s . S h a r e d w i t h h i s f r i e n d s f r o m Ta h i t i , i t w a s d e c l a r e d ‘ M a i t a’i r o a a’e’, o r s i m p l y t r a n s l a t e d , ‘ t h e b e s t ’, a n d t h u s , a l e g e n d was born. The rum has become one of the most s o u g h t - a f t e r b o t t l e s i n t h e w o r l d , a n d t o d ay, a t r i b u t e to this legend of cocktail histor y returns to the world stage as a limited of fering, good news for both rum c o n n o i s s e u r s a n d c l a s s i c c o c k t a i l e n t h u s i a s t s a l i ke.

Re f e r e n c i n g o r i g i n a l m a n u s c r i p t s a n d f o r m u l a s ,

l e g e n d a r y M a s t e r B l e n d e r J oy S p e n c e c r e a t e d t h i s o n e - t i m e r e l e a s e u s i n g f o u r ve r y r a r e d i s t i l l a t e s set aside to rest on the Estate to best recreate the t a s t e p r o f i l e o f t h e p r i ze d g o l d e n b l e n d. “ W i t h o u r 17-Ye a r- O l d L e g e n d, we k n e w we h a d a s p e c i a l s t o r y t o t e l l ,” s a i d S p e n c e. “ T h i s p r o j e c t h a s b e e n ye a r s in the making and truly one of the most challenging o f my c a r e e r. I n c a r e f u l l y r e - c r e a t i n g t h e b e a u t i f u l t a s t e p r o f i l e o f t h e o r i g i n a l r u m , we’ ve c r e a t e d a n ex p r e s s i o n t h a t i s a t r i b u t e b o t h t o o u r o w n h e r i t a g e, a n d t o t h e h e r i t a g e o f t h e c l a s s i c c o c k t a i l c r a f t .”

S p e n c e t o l d Fo r b e s c o nt r i b u t o r, To ny S a c h s , “ We h a d t h e f o r m u l a t i o n , we h a d t h e s p e c i f i c a t i o n , s o w e know what the technical composition was, and what t h e s e n s o r y f l avo r p r o f i l e i s . We w o r ke d a s s i d u o u s l y t o d eve l o p t h e s e s p e c i a l m a r q u e s o f r u m . T h e r e’s o n e p a r t i c u l a r m a r q u e t h a t i s s o u n i q u e, a n d yo u h a d t o s e t t h e f e r m e nt i n a p a r t i c u l a r w ay a n d d i s t i l l i n a p a r t i c u l a r w ay, w h i c h i s n o t w h a t we’r e d o i n g n o w f o r t h e o t h e r e s t a t e m a r q u e s .” 1, 5 0 0 b o t t l e s o f t h i s s p e c i a l ex p r e s s i o n h ave b e e n p r o d u c e d a n d a r e ava i l a b l e f o r s a l e. L a s t m o nt h , 3 6 N F Ts r e d e e m a b l e f o r b o t t l e s o f A p p l et o n E s t a t e 17-Ye a r- O l d L e g e n d w e r e m a d e ava i l a b l e o n B l o c k B a r.c o m . A p p l et o n Estate has collaborated with Jamaican Visual Ar tist, O n e i k a R u s s e l l t o d eve l o p t h e a r t w o r k f o r e a c h N F T exc l u s i ve t o B l o c k B a r, a f i r s t f r o m A p p l et o n E s t a t e.

T h e 17-Ye a r- O l d L e g e n d w i l l a l s o b e ava i l a b l e a t s e l e c t p r e m i u m r et a i l e r s s t a r t i n g i n J u n e, i n the United States, Jamaica, the United Kingdom, Fr a n c e, I t a l y, C ze c h Re p u b l i c , S w i t ze r l a n d, B e l g i u m , N et h e r l a n d s , L u xe m b o u r g , A u s t r i a , D e n m a r k , S i n g a p o r e, Ta i w a n , S o u t h Ko r e a , N e w Z e a l a n d, J a p a n , a n d H o n g Ko n g . 17-Ye a r- O l d L e g e n d i s a 10 0 p e r c e n t p o t - d i s t i l l e d r u m , b o t t l e d a t 4 9 % A BV. h t t p s: //a p p l et o n e s t a t e.c o m / HOLM E S CAY H o l m e s C ay R u m i s r e l e a s i n g t w o d i s t i n c t s t y l e s o f u n a g e d r u m , R h u m A g r i c o l e a n d G r a n d A r ô m e, f r o m D i s t i l l e r i e d e S ava n n a o f Ré u n i o n I s l a n d, a s a p a r t o f i t s S i n g l e O r i g i n c o l l e c t i o n . Re u n i o n , a tropical island in the Indian Ocean of f the coast o f M a d a g a s c a r, i s a Fr e n c h ove r s e a s d e p a r t m e n t .

I t s f e r t i l e vo l c a n i c s o i l h a s y i e l d e d s u g a r c a n e f o r c e n t u r i e s . T h e S ava n n a d i s t i l l e r y p r o d u c e s b o t h cane juice and molasses rums. Réunion Island Agricole Rum is made from fresh pressed cane j u i c e d i s t i l l e d o n a S ava l l e c o p p e r c o l u m n s t i l l. I t i s b o t t l e d u n a g e d a t 5 0 % a l c o h o l by vo l u m e. Ré u n i o n Island Grand Arôme Rum is a molasses high ester ex p r e s s i o n p r o d u c e d a f t e r a t e n - d ay f e r m e nt a t i o n p e r i o d. A l s o d i s t i l l e d o n t h e S ava l l e c o p p e r c o l u m n s t i l l , i t i s b o t t l e d u n a g e d a n d a t a h i g h p r o o f, 5 7. 5% a l c o h o l by vo l u m e. H o l m e s C ay R u m f o u n d e r Er i c K aye s ay s , “ T h e s e u n a g e d ex p r e s s i o n s f r o m R e u n i o n h ave n eve r b e e n s o l d i n N o r t h A m e r i c a b e f o r e. B o t h a r e s p e c i a l , s m a l l b a t c h r u m s d i s t i l l e d f r o m n a t i ve s u g a r c a n e. T h e R h u m A g r i c o l e a n d t h e G r a n d A r ô m e ve r y m u c h f i t t h e p r o f i l e o f t h e H o l m e s C ay S i n g l e O r i g i n l i n e, o f f e r i n g exc i t i n g a n d a c c e s s i b l e yo u n g e r ex p r e s s i o n s t o b r o a d e n s e r v i n g o p p o r t u n i t i e s . T h e s e t w o ex p r e s s i o n s c a n n o t b e m i s t a ke n f o r o n e a n o t h e r, n o r c o u l d t h ey b e m i s t a ke n f o r l i g h t - f l avo r e d w h i t e

r u m s m a d e i n o t h e r d i s t i l l i n g s t y l e s . T h e Ré u n i o n I s l a n d A g r i c o l e a n d G r a n d A r ô m e ex p r e s s i o n s a r e d e l i c i o u s a n d d i s t i n c t i ve ex p r e s s i o n s o f t h e t e r r o i r o f Re u n i o n , r e a d y t o b e s i p p e d o r u s e d i n c o c k t a i l s t h a t h i g h l i g h t t h e i r s p e c i a l q u a l i t i e s .” Er i c K aye f o u n d e d H o l m e s C ay R u m i n 2 019. Fr u s t r a t e d t h a t a c c e s s t o c a s k s t r e n g t h r u m s w i t h o u t a d d i t i ve s w a s l i m i t e d i n t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s , K aye s a w a n o p p o r t u n i t y t o f o c u s o n t h e h a r d - t o - o b t a i n a g e d ex p r e s s i o n s t h a t h e h a d e n c o u n t e r e d i n Eu r o p e a n d t h e C a r i b b e a n , while championing increased transparency across t h e c a t e g o r y. K aye’s ex t e n s i ve k n o w l e d g e o f r u m and relationships with highly regarded distilleries worldwide enable him to select, bottle and impor t r a r e c a s k s , u n u s u a l ex p r e s s i o n s a n d exc i t i n g b l e n d s . h t t p s: // w w w. h o l m e s c ay.c o m / KULEANA T h e f o l k s a t Ku l e a n a d e s c r i b e t h e m s e l ve s a s Fa r m e r s , D i s t i l l e r s a n d B l e n d e r s . A s B l e n d e r s , Ku l e a n a s o u r c e s rum from distillers around the globe for their Huihui, N a n e a a n d H ō k ū l e i c o r e p r o d u c t s . Eve r y o n c e a n d a w h i l e t h ey a r e o f f e r e d a g e m , a r a r e s i n g l e b a r r e l of some forgotten rum. Since a single barrel is not e n o u g h t o c r e a t e a c o r e p r o d u c t , Ku l e a n a h a s o f f e r e d t h e s e s p e c i a l r u m s a s S p e c i a l Re l e a s e s . W h e n I w a s o n t h e B i g I s l a n d i n D e c e m b e r, t h ey h a d j u s t r e l e a s e d 2 0 0 b o t t l e s o f J a m a i c a 11, a b o l d , f u n k y J a m a i c a n r u m t h a t w a s d e l i c i o u s . L a t e r t h i s m o n t h , Ku l e a n a w i l l b e r e l e a s i n g 2 0 0 b o t t l e s o f Pa n a m a 15 a t t h e Ku l e a n a R u m S h a c k i n Wa i ko l o a V i l l a g e o n t h e B i g I s l a n d o f H a w a i i . T h e j o u r n ey o f Pa n a m a 15 b e g a n i n Fe b r u a r y 2 0 0 4 , w h e n i t w a s d i s t i l l e d i n Pa n a m a u s i n g a m o l a s s e s f e r m e n t a t i o n . I n 2 014 , t h e b a r r e l w a s e m p t i e d , a n d t h e r u m (a b o u t 15 7- l i t e r s o f r u m) w a s transpor ted to the United Kingdom, where it was re b a r r e l e d a n d n u r t u r e d f o r f i ve a d d i t i o n a l ye a r s . I t w a s n o t u n t i l 2 019 t h a t t h i s h i d d e n g e m w a s d i s c ove r e d v i a b a r r e l s a m p l e i n a w a r e h o u s e i n Eu r o p e by Ku l e a n a R u m Wo r k s , w a i t i n g t o b e s h a r e d w i t h d i s c e r n i n g r u m e n t h u s i a s t s a r o u n d t h e g l o b e. “ W h i l e w e d o n’ t know much about the origins of this par ticular barrel, w e d o k n o w t h a t i t ex u d e s a n ex t r a o r d i n a r y l eve l o f d e l i c i o u s n e s s ,” s ay s S t eve J e f f e r s o n , Fo u n d e r a n d C EO. J e f f e r s o n a d d e d “ I n a d d i t i o n t o m a k i n g o n e o f t h e w o r l d ’s f i n e s t r u m a g r i c o l e s f r o m f r e s h - p r e s s e d H a w a i i a n h e i r l o o m kō (s u g a r c a n e), w e s e a r c h t h e g l o b e f o r w o r l d - c l a s s r u m s t o c r e a t e i n n ova t i ve b l e n d s . O u r S p e c i a l Re l e a s e p r o g r a m i s h o w w e s h a r e the most rare and remarkable rums we f ind, directly w i t h yo u , a s w e f i n d t h e m .”

I n o t h e r n e w s , Ku l e a n a i s o f f t o q u i t e a s t a r t i n 2 0 2 3 .

T h e i r H ō k ū l e i , w h i c h i s a b l e n d o f s eve n r u m s f r o m H a w a i i , Pa n a m a , N i c a r a g u a , B a r b a d o s a n d Tr i n i d a d , w o n a P l a t i n u m M e d a l f r o m t h e B eve r a g e Te s t i n g I n s t i t u t e ( BT I), a p r o m i n e n t a u t h o r i t y i n t h e b eve r a g e eva l u a t i o n f i e l d , a n d a G o l d M e d a l f r o m t h e S a n Fr a n c i s c o Wo r l d S p i r i t s C o m p e t i t i o n . T h e i r H a w a i i a n R u m A g r i c o l e e a r n e d a G o l d M e d a l a n d a n i m p r e s s i ve s c o r e o f 9 3 p o i n t s f r o m BT I . T h i s r e c o g n i t i o n f r o m BT I f u r t h e r c e m e n t s t h e H a w a i i a n R u m A g r i c o l e’s s t a t u s as a world- class rum that showcases the unique t e r r o i r a n d c u l t u r e o f H a w a i i . Ku l e a n a’s H u i h u i , a

Got Rum? June 2023 - 41

b l e n d o f t h e i r H a w a i i a n R u m A g r i c o l e, a M a r t i n i q u e R h u m A g r i c o l e a n d a l i g h t r u m f r o m Pa p u a N e w G u i n e a , a l s o w o n a G o l d M e d a l i n t h e S a n Fr a n c i s c o Wo r l d S p i r i t s C o m p et i t i o n . “ We a r e i m m e n s e l y p r o u d o f t h e r e c o g n i t i o n a n d a w a r d s r e c e i ve d by o u r r u m s ,” s a i d J e f f e r s o n . “ T h e s e a c c o l a d e s va l i d a t e o u r u nw ave r i n g c o m m i t m e nt t o q u a l i t y a n d a u t h e n t i c i t y.

We t a ke p r i d e i n o u r p r o c e s s a n d i n o u r p r o d u c t s w h i c h a r e g l u t e n - f r e e a n d h ave n o a d d e d s u g a r s , f l avo r s , o r c o l o r i n g . We a i m t o d e l i ve r exc e p t i o n a l spirits that embody the spirit of aloha. These awards s e r ve a s a t e s t a m e nt t o t h e h a r d w o r k a n d p a s s i o n o f o u r t e a m .” h t t p s: // k u l e a n a r u m .c o m /

D i s t i l l e r a t WIRD. A c o m b i n a t i o n o f r u m s f r o m both pot and column stills, this blend was f irst m a t u r e d f o r 8 ye a r s i n t h e c e l l a r s o f We s t I n d i e s R u m D i s t i l l e r y, t h e n f u r t h e r a g e d f o r a n o t h e r ye a r i n Fr a n c e.

• VENE Z UEL A 2 010 (5 2 % A BV, 10 4 p r o o f ) – Ve n e z u e l a i s h o m e t o D e s t i l e r i a S o f a , a f a m i l y o w n e d d i s t i l l e r y w i t h m o r e t h a n 2 0 0 ye a r s o f r u m m a k i n g ex p e r t i s e. D i s t i l l e d i n a c o l u m n s t i l l a n d a g e d f o r e i g h t ye a r s i n t h e i r c e l l a r, c a r e f u l l y selected casks were then aged for an additional f o u r ye a r s i n Fr a n c e. h t t p s: // w w w. p l a nt a t i o n r u m .c o m /

PLA N TATIO N R U M

MO N TA N YA D ISTILL E RS

Plantation announced the release of the second s e r i e s o f t h e P l a nt a t i o n R u m V i nt a g e C o l l e c t i o n c a l l e d ‘ U n d e r t h e S e a ,’ f e a t u r i n g s i x exc e p t i o n a l b o t t l i n g s p r o d u c e d i n l i m i t e d q u a nt i t i e s , a l l s e l e c t e d

by A l ex a n d r e G a b r i e l , O w n e r a n d M a s t e r B l e n d e r o f Plantation Rum. Each bottling is from a dif ferent rump r o d u c i n g c o u n t r y, d i s t i n g u i s h e d by t h e i c o n i c c o l o r s a n d l o c a l m a r i n e a n i m a l s n a t i ve t o s i x o f t h e g r e a t t e r r o i r s o f r u m , i nv i t i n g f a n s t o p l u n g e i nt o a n e w world of rum.

• PA N A M A 2 0 0 8 , 4 5 .7 % A BV (91. 4 p r o o f ) – Pa n a m a i s t h e h o m e o f A l c o h o l e s d e l I s t m o d i s t i l l e r y, w h i c h p r o d u c e d t h i s 2 0 0 8 v i nt a g e. Pa n a m a 2 0 0 8 is made from molasses from the locally grown s u g a r c a n e. D i s t i l l e d i n a c o l u m n s t i l l a n d a g e d f o r 12 ye a r s i n ex- b o u r b o n b a r r e l s i n Pa n a m a’s t r o p i c a l a t m o s p h e r e, i t w a s t r a n s p o r t e d by b o a t t o Fr a n c e t o m a t u r e a n ex t r a ye a r.

• J A M A I C A 2 0 07 – C l a r e n d o n MS P, 4 8 . 4% A BV (9 6 . 8 p r o o f ) - J a m a i c a i s t h e h o m e o f t h e ve n e r a b l e C l a r e n d o n D i s t i l l e r y, w h i c h p r o d u c e d t h i s v i b r a n t ex p r e s s i o n . M a d e w i t h m o l a s s e s f r o m l o c a l l y g r o w n s u g a r c a n e, t h i s v i nt a g e w a s d i s t i l l e d i n a Ve n d o m e D o u b l e - Ret o r t c o p p e r p o t s t i l l t h a t p r o d u c e s a n e l e g a nt a r o m a t i c p r o f i l e, l i g h t e r t h a n the traditional pot still Jamaican rum.

• FI J I ISL A NDS 2 0 0 9, 4 9. 5% A BV (9 9 p r o o f ) – F i j i i s t h e h o m e t o t h e R u m C o. o f F i j i D i s t i l l e r y. T h i s 10 0 % p o t s t i l l r u m i s t h e p r o d u c t o f a n exc e p t i o n a l t e r r o i r c o m b i n e d w i t h a r t i s a n a l s avo i r- f a i r e a n d t r a d i t i o n a l p r o d u c t i o n m et h o d s . A f t e r a f o u r- t o f i ve - d ay f e r m e nt a t i o n , t h e m o l a s s e s i s d i s t i l l e d i n a t r a d i t i o n a l c o p p e r s t i l l. T h e r u m i s a g e d f o r 10 ye a r s i n t h e t r o p i c a l c l i m a t e, f o l l o we d by t h r e e a d d i t i o n a l ye a r s i n t h e c o nt i n e nt a l c l i m a t e o f Fr a n c e.

• GU YA N A 2 0 07, 51% A BV (10 2 p r o o f ) - T h i s exc e p t i o n a l G u ya n e s e r u m i s a b l e n d o f r u m s r e s u l t i n g f r o m o n e - we e k f e r m e nt a t i o n s d i s t i l l e d i n t h r e e h i s t o r i c s t i l l s , i n c l u d i n g t h e Po r t M o u r a nt d o u b l e w o o d e n p o t s t i l l. F i r s t m a t u r e d f o r t h i r t e e n ye a r s i n 2 0 0 - l i t e r ex- b o u r b o n c a s ks i n t h e t r o p i c a l c l i m a t e, i t i s t h e n f u r t h e r a g e d f o r t w o ye a r s i n Fr a n c e.

• B A R B A DOS 2 013 (5 0 . 2 % A BV, 10 0 . 4 p r o o f ) - T h i s exc e p t i o n a l r u m w a s s e l e c t e d f r o m t h e c e l l a r s o f We s t I n d i e s R u m D i s t i l l e r y by A l ex a n d r e G a b r i e l , with the help of Andrew Hassell, Managing Director and rum historian, and Don Benn, Master

M o n t a nya D i s t i l l e r s i s c e l e b r a t i n g i t s 15 - ye a r a n n i ve r s a r y i n 2 0 2 3 . W h a t b e g a n a s a s m a l l , f a m i l y run business is now a successful brand selling rum across the United States and in 7 countries in the UK a n d Eu r o p e. T h e o r i g i n a l D i s t i l l e r y (2 0 0 8 - 2 011) w a s o n B l a i r S t r e e t i n S i l ve r t o n i n a 10 0 ye a r- o l d , 8 0 0 square foot building. The complete operation took p l a c e o n t h r e e l eve l s: f e r m e n t a t i o n s i n t h e d i r t - f l o o r e d b a s e m e n t , d i s t i l l i n g a n d t a s t i n g s o n t h e m a i n l eve l , a n d a g i n g a n d b o t t l i n g u p s t a i r s . T h e Ta s t i n g R o o m w a s o f t e n p a c ke d s h o u l d e r t o s h o u l d e r w i t h s k i e r s a n d h i ke r s d r i n k i n g d o u b l e W h i t e R o o m c o c k t a i l s . I t w a s a g r a n d a d ve n t u r e. I n 2 011, K a r e n H o s k i n s a n d h e r f a m i l y d e c i d e d t o m ove t o C r e s t e d B u t t e t o o p e n up more oppor tunities for the whole family and their b u s i n e s s e s . To d ay, M o n t a nya D i s t i l l e r s o c c u p i e s ove r 10 , 0 0 0 s q . f t o f c o m m e r c i a l s p a c e a n d i s p o i s e d f o r c o n t i n u e d g r o w t h a f t e r a c h a l l e n g i n g f e w ye a r s o f ex p a n s i o n a n d p a n d e m i c . T h e r e h ave b e e n m a ny c h a l l e n g e s a n d s e t - b a c k s a l o n g t h e w ay. “A c c e s s to capital, competition against larger companies, a n d t h e f a c t t h a t w e d o n’ t h ave a f a m o u s c e l e b r i t y r e p r e s e n t i n g u s a r e a f e w o f t h e m a ny h u r d l e s ,” s ay s Hoskin. “In addition to the fact that rum was so far outside the norm, American mountain rum no less, w h e n w e s t a r t e d.” D e s p i t e t h e o d d s , H o s k i n h a s scaled her business and increased production tenf o l d. M o n t a nya w i l l r e l e a s e va r i o u s l i m i t e d - e d i t i o n a n n i ve r s a r y i t e m s t h r o u g h o u t t h e ye a r, i n c l u d i n g l i m i t e d - e d i t i o n g l a s s w a r e, h a t s , a n d t - s h i r t s . T h ey w i l l a l s o b e r e l e a s i n g t h e i r f i r s t - eve r r u m l i q u e u r t h i s s u m m e r (o n l y ava i l a b l e i n t h e i r t a s t i n g r o o m i n i t i a l l y), w h i c h w i l l f e a t u r e a b u r s t o f va n i l l a , c l ove, o r a n g e, a n d l e m o n . h t t p s: // w w w. m o n t a nya r u m .c o m /

Got Rum ? June 2 0 2 3 - 42

K ILCHOMA N D ISTILL E RY I s l ay S c o t c h w h i s k y m a ke r K i l c h o m a n a n n o u n c e d p l a n n i n g p e r m i s s i o n h a s b e e n r e c e i ve d t o b u i l d a r u m distiller y on the island of Barbados. Nine acres of land and a derelict mansion house were purchased at B e n t l ey M a n s i o n i n t h e Pa r i s h o f S t . P h i l i p i n A u g u s t 2 0 21. T h e p l a n i s t o e r e c t b u i l d i n g s t o h o u s e t h e d i s t i l l e r y, m i l l a n d c a s k w a r e h o u s e, p u r c h a s e s u g a r c a n e f r o m t h e f i e l d s s u r r o u n d i n g B e n t l ey M a n s i o n , crush it on site and produce rum from sugar cane j u i c e a n d c a n e sy r u p. P r o d u c t i o n w i l l b e f r o m t w o c o p p e r p o t s t i l l s f o l l o w e d by m a t u r a t i o n a n d b o t t l i n g o n s i t e. A n t h o ny W i l l s w i l l b e t e a m i n g u p w i t h Fr a n k

Wa r d , f o r m e r M o u n t G ay M a n a g i n g D i r e c t o r, w h o will be consulting on the project and advising on s p e c i f i c r u m p r o d u c t i o n m et h o d s . T h i s w i l l o f f e r a c o m b i n a t i o n o f ex i s t i n g ex p e r t i s e i n s i n g l e m a l t w h i s k y p r o d u c t i o n a n d M r. Wa r d ’s va s t k n o w l e d g e i n r u m p r o d u c t i o n . K i l c h o m a n h a s d eve l o p e d a n et w o r k of distributors around the world and plan to utilize t h e s a m e d i s t r i b u t o r s f o r o u r p r e m i u m r u m . A nt h o ny W i l l s c o m m e n t e d, “ t h i s i s a n exc i t i n g d eve l o p m e n t f o r K i l c h o m a n a n d we l o o k f o r w a r d t o s h a r i n g m o r e n e w s a s t h e p r o j e c t t a ke s s h a p e.” h t t p s: // w w w. k i l c h o m a n d i s t i l l e r y.c o m / MO U N T GAY R U M M o u n t G ay R u m h a s u nve i l e d t h e l a t e s t a d d i t i o n t o i t s M a s t e r B l e n d e r C o l l e c t i o n s e r i e s , T h e PX S h e r r y Cask Expression. The limited- edition rum series d e b u t e d i n 2 018 a n d c e l e b r a t e s M o u nt G ay ’s h e r i t a g e a n d ex p e r t i s e i n r u m m a k i n g . T h e f i r s t r e l e a s e i n t h e s e r i e s w a s t h e XO: T h e Pe a t S m o ke E x p r e s s i o n , c r e a t e d by f o r m e r M a s t e r B l e n d e r A l l e n S m i t h . I n 2 019, w h e n M a s t e r B l e n d e r Tr u d i a n n B r a n ke r t o o k ove r, s h e r e l e a s e d t h e ex p r e s s i o n s Po t S t i l l R u m , T h e Po r t C a s k E x p r e s s i o n , A n d e a n O a k C a s k , a n d T h e M a d e i r a C a s k E x p r e s s i o n . Fo r t h i s ye a r ’s r e l e a s e, B r a n ke r c h o s e b a r r e l s f r o m Pe d r o X i m e n e z S h e r r y t h a t p r ev i o u s l y h e l d f o r t i f i e d w i n e. T h e PX S h e r r y C a s k E x p r e s s i o n b l e n d s b o t h p o t a n d c o nt i n u o u s s t i l l r u m s t h a t h ave s p e nt a t l e a s t t we nt y ye a r s i n A m e r i c a n w h i s key b a r r e l s a n d a g e d t h e m a n o t h e r ye a r i n t h e s h e r r y b a r r e l s . B r a n ke r s a i d “ G o i n g t h r o u g h some of our oldest rums to f ind the right ones was an i n c r e d i b l e j o u r n ey, t a s t i n g r u m s t h a t h ave b e e n p l a c e d i n o u r b o n d s t w o d e c a d e s a g o. I w a s t h r i l l e d t o f i n d 2 0 - ye a r- o l d r u m s t h a t s t o o d u p i n t e r m s o f b o d y a n d c h a r a c t e r t o b e n e f i t f r o m b e i n g f i n i s h e d i n PX S h e r r y c a s k s , a n d I ’m h o n o r e d t o a d d t h i s t o o u r M a s t e r B l e n d e r C o l l e c t i o n .” h t t p s: // w w w. m o u nt g ay r u m .c o m / TA K AMA K A R U M D r i n k s I n t e r n a t i o n a l r e p o r t e d t h a t Ta k a m a k a R u m f r o m t h e S eyc h e l l e s h a s r e l e a s e d t h e s e c o n d r o u n d o f t w o o f t h e m o s t p o p u l a r ex p r e s s i o n s f r o m i t s S t A n d r e S e r i e s , P t i L a k a z a n d G r a n k a z . M a s t e r B l e n d e r S t eve n R i o u x w o r ke d c l o s e l y w i t h c o - f o u n d e r s B e r n a r d a n d R i c h a r d d ’O f f ay t o r e i m a g i n e t h e l i q u i d s a s p a r t o f t h e n a t u r a l evo l u t i o n o f t h e c o l l e c t i o n .

Ta k a m a k a c r e a t e s b l e n d s u s i n g t h e i r o w n c a n e and molasses rums, their own pot and column distilled rums and Caribbean aged Bajan Rum. Pti L a k a z (4 5 .1% a bv) b l e n d s t r a d i t i o n a l , p o t - d i s t i l l e d S eyc h e l l o i s c a n e r u m , l i g h t l y a g e d i n n e w Fr e n c h o a k a n d ex- r u by p o r t b a r r e l s , w i t h a t h r e e - ye a r- o l d p o t a n d c o l u m n d i s t i l l e d m o l a s s e s r u m a g e d i n f i r s t f i l l exb o u r b o n a n d a n e i g h t - ye a r- o l d ex- b o u r b o n m o l a s s e s r u m f r o m B a r b a d o s’ a c c l a i m e d Fo u r s q u a r e. G r a n k a z (51. 6 % a bv) b l e n d s t r a d i t i o n a l p o t - d i s t i l l e d S eyc h e l l e s cane rum with column and pot- distilled molasses rum, r e s p e c t i ve l y a g e d f o u r ye a r s i n m e d i u m t o a s t v i r g i n Fr e n c h o a k a n d t h r e e ye a r s i n f i r s t - f i l l ex- b o u r b o n b a r r e l s . T h e s e a r e b l e n d e d w i t h a n e i g h t - ye a ro l d B a j a n Fo u r s q u a r e m o l a s s e s r u m . h t t p s: // w w w. t a k a m a k a r u m .c o m /

K AVO R U M T h e C o r e B ev G r o u p a n n o u n c e d t h e r e l e a s e o f i t s l a t e s t b r a n d , K avo, t h e w o r l d ’s f i r s t G r e e k r u m . M a d e w i t h l o c a l l y s o u r c e d G r e e k- i s l a n d i n g r e d i e nt s , K avo i s a n e w r u m b r a n d t h a t p r o m i s e s t o d e l i ve r a u n i q u e a n d p r e m i u m r u m ex p e r i e n c e u n l i ke a ny o t h e r. T h e p r o d u c t w i l l b e ava i l a b l e i n G r e e c e s t a r t i n g i n J u n e a n d w i l l l a t e r ex p a n d t o t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s a n d C a n a d a star ting summer of 2023. “I wanted to create an a u t h e n t i c p r o d u c t t h a t w a s u n i q u e t o my r o o t s a n d u p b r i n g i n g ,” s ay s C o r e B ev f o u n d e r a n d C EO S t e l i o s S t av r i a n o s , w h o s e p a r e nt s a r e G r e e k i m m i g r a n t s . “ I ’m ve r y p a s s i o n a t e a b o u t w h e r e I c a m e f r o m , a n d I w a n t e d t o t a ke t h a t p a s s i o n a n d p u t i t i n t o a b o t t l e.

A n d t h i s i s t h e f i r s t o f i t s k i n d.” K avo i s a p r e m i u m , w h i t e r u m t h a t t a ke s i n s p i r a t i o n f r o m t h e r i c h c u l t u r a l h e r i t a g e a n d n a t u r a l b e a u t y o f G r e e c e’s p i c t u r e s q u e islands. The use of unique fruits and botanicals, such as mandarins from Santorini and mastic from Chios, in addition to sugar cane and other herbs and spices f o u n d o n l y o n G r e e k i s l a n d s , g i ve K avo a d i s t i n c t f r e s h a n d s w e e t f l avo r a n d a r o m a t i c p r o f i l e t h a t s e t s i t a p a r t f r o m o t h e r r u m s o n t h e m a r ke t . K avo i s p e r f e c t f o r t h o s e s e e k i n g a n e w a n d exc i t i n g ex p e r i e n c e i n t h e r u m c a t e g o r y. “ K avo h a s b e e n a l m o s t 3 ye a r s i n t h e m a k i n g , a n d w e o b s e s s e d ove r eve r y s i n g l e d e t a i l .”

D i m i t r i o s Z a h a r i a d i s , C o r e B ev ’s C h i e f O p e r a t i n g O f f i c e r, w h o w o r ke d c l o s e l y o n t h e K avo b r a n d , a d d e d “ this is a proud moment for us to f inally release this p r o d u c t .” h t t p s: // w w w.c o r e b ev.c o m / KOLOA R U M COM PA N Y Ko l o a R u m C o m p a ny h a s p a r t n e r e d w i t h A l l i e d B eve r a g e G r o u p t o ex p a n d d i s t r i b u t i o n o f e i g h t p r e m i u m r u m p r o d u c t s i n t o t h e N e w J e r s ey m a r ke t .

Ava i l a b l e n o w f o r p u r c h a s e, r u m e n t h u s i a s t s a n d p a t r o n s c a n c h o o s e f r o m a d i ve r s e p o r t f o l i o o f f l avo r s i n c l u d i n g W h i t e, G o l d , D a r k , S p i c e, C o c o n u t , C a c a o, C o f f e e, a s w e l l a s t h e f i ve - ye a r, K a u a i R e s e r ve d S i n g l e - B a r r e l A g e d r u m . Ko l o a R u m p r o d u c t s a r e a r t f u l l y d i s t i l l e d , b l e n d e d a n d b o t t l e d i n K a l a h e o, Kauai. Pure cane sugar and pristine rainwater f r o m M o u n t Wa i ʻa l eʻa l e c o m e t o g e t h e r t o p r o d u c e s i n g l e - b a t c h r u m s w i t h r e m a r k a b l y r i c h f l avo r s a n d smoothness that capture the essence of “The Garden I s l e” i n a d e l i c i o u s r a n g e o f p r e m i u m r u m p r o d u c t s . “ To m e e t t h e s t e a d i l y i n c r e a s i n g d e m a n d f o r o u r premium rum products, it is critically impor tant that we align with the absolute best distribution par tners i n e a c h o f t h e m a r ke t s w e s e r ve, a n d N e w J e r s ey i s n o exc e p t i o n ,” s a i d B o b G u n t e r, p r e s i d e n t a n d C EO o f Ko l o a R u m C o m p a ny. “ N e w J e r s ey i s o u r l a t e s t p r o j e c t l a u n c h a n d w e’r e e c s t a t i c t o s h a r e T h e S p i r i t o f A l o h a f r o m T h e G a r d e n I s l e t o T h e G a r d e n S t a t e. “ We’r e exc i t e d t o r e p r e s e n t Ko l o a R u m , k n o w n a s H a w a i i ’s S p i r i t o f A l o h a ,” s a i d S a r a H a r m e l i n V P o f D i g i t a l & I n n ova t i o n a t A l l i e d B eve r a g e G r o u p. “ Ko l o a R u m f i t s per fectly into our brand por t folio with its uniquely craf ted premium rums. The response from our c u s t o m e r s i s r e m a r k a b l e a n d t h e c o m p a ny h a s t r u l y exc e e d e d o u r ex p e c t a t i o n s .” h t t p s: // ko l o a r u m .c o m /

Got Rum? June 2023 - 43

The Sweet Business of Sugar

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Guatemala

Re g a r dl e s s of di st i ll at i o n e qui p m e nt , fe r m e nt at i o n m et h o d, a g i n g o r b l e n di n g te c hni qu e s, a ll r um p r o du c e r s h ave o n e t hi n g i n c o m m o n: su g a r c a n e.

W i t h o ut su g a r c a n e we wo ul d n ot h ave su g a r m i ll s, c o unt l e s s f a r m e r s wo ul d n ot h ave a p r of i t a b l e c r o p a n d we wo ul d n ot h ave r um!

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CIGAR & R UbyMPhi liPAIRI NG p I li B a r ake

Got Rum ? June 2 0 2 3 - 60

Dirty RumHattan A c oup le of days ag o, I s aw o n Inst agr am t hat a f r i end (J er r y G it any) was sm o k ing a Par t agás G r an Re ser va and, just like l o o k ing at fo o d c an make you hungr y, I k new t hen and t here t hat fo r t his pair ing I woul d b e sm o k ing a Par t agás. I se le c te d a S er i e P N ° 2 (52 R ing x 15 6 mm), w hic h w ill give me a lit t le m o re t han an h our of sm o k ing t ime, s o I c an c almly matc h t he pair ing to t he intensit y of t he c i gar.

M

y n a m e i s Ph i l i p I l i B a r a ke, S o m m e l i e r by t r a d e. A s a r e s u l t o f w o r k i n g w i t h s e l e c te d r e s t a u r a nt s a n d w i n e p r o d u c e r s i n C h i l e, I s t a r te d d eve l o p i n g a p a s s i o n for distilled spirits and cigars. As par t of my m o s t r e c e nt j o b, I h a d t h e o p p o r t u n i t y t o v i s i t m a ny C e nt r a l A m e r i c a n c o u nt r i e s , a s we l l a s , r u m d i s t i l l e r i e s a n d t o b a c c o g r o we r s .

B u t my p a s s i o n f o r s p i r i t s a n d c i g a r s d i d n ot e n d t h e r e; i n 2 010 I h a d t h e h o n o r o f r e p r e s e nt i n g C h i l e a t t h e I nte r n a t i o n a l C i g a r S o m m e l i e r C o m p et i t i o n, w h e r e I w o n f i r s t p l a c e, b e c o m i n g t h e f i r s t S o u t h A m e r i c a n t o eve r a c h i eve t h a t f e a t .

Now I face the challenge of impressing t h e r e a d e r s o f “ G o t Ru m? ” w i t h w h a t i s perhaps the toughest task for a Sommelier: d i s c u s s i n g p a i r i n g s w h i l e b e i n g we l l awa r e t h at t h e r e a r e a s m a ny i n d i v i d u a l p r ef e r e n c e s a s t h e r e a r e r u m s a n d c i g a r s i n t h e wo r l d.

I b e l i eve a p a i r i n g i s a n ex p e r i e n c e t h a t s h o u l d n ot b e l i m i te d t o o n l y t w o p r o d u c t s; i t i s s o m et h i n g t h a t c a n b e i n c o r p o r a te d i nt o o u r l i ve s . I hope to help our r e a d e r s d i s c ove r a n d a p p r e c i ate t h e pleasure of tr ying 2023 n ew t h i n g s (o r ex p e r i e n c i n g k n o w n t h i n g s i n n ew way s).

Philip # GRC i g a r Pa i r i n g

Fo r t he c o c k t ail I t h ought ab out s o met hing t hat c oul d easily b e p repare d at h o me, a mi x of ingre di ent s t hat we’ve use d b efo re. I wante d to rev isit t he Rum M anhat t an, w it h a c oup le of sp e c ial touc he s, suc h as t he addit i o n of e sp re s s o, to add a new dimensi o n to t he c o c k t ail.

T he re c ip e is as fo ll ows: • • • •

5 oz. Bac ardi Rum 10 Year O ld 1 ½ oz. Ver m out h Ro s s o 1 S h ot of Esp re s s o O r ang e Pe e l fo r G ar nish

S t ar t by f illing t he M ar t ini glas s w it h a l ot of ic e to c hill it . Add t he e sp re s s o sh ot s o t hat , in addit i o n to b eing c hille d, t he glas s w ill als o have t he f lavo r s and t he foam f ro m t he c of fe e. M eanw hile, in a c o c k t ail shaker o r mi x ing glas s, c o mbine t he r um and t he ver m out h w it h a c oup le of ic e c ub e s, to c hill t he mi x ture.

N ow disc ard t he c o ntent s of t he M ar t ini glas s and you’ll not ic e t hat it is nic e ly c hille d and t hat t he c of fe e remnant s ling er, w hic h w ill Got Rum? June 2023 - 61

Ph oto c r e di t : @ Ci g a r i li

Got Got Rum Rum?? June June 22002233 -- 62 62

Ph oto c r e di t : @ Ci g a r i li

p lay an imp o r t ant ro le in t he nex t step.

A f ter mi x ing t he r um and ver m out h in t he mi x ing glas s, st r ain t he mi x ture (rem ove all t he ic e) into t he M ar t ini glas s. You’ll not ic e t hat t he remaining touc h of c of fee give s t he dr ink a new dim ensi o n, t hus t he name D ir t y Rum H at t an. We t hen squeeze f re shlyc ut o r ange p ee ls, to sp r ay t he aro mat ic c it r ic oils o n t he c o c k t ail, w hic h are t he p er fe c t and ref re shing f inal touc h.

It is t im e to li ght up t he c i gar. M ak ing a c lean c ut is easy w it h a c las sic Pir ámi de like t his o ne f ro m Par t agás.

I remind myself t hat t his c i gar has b e en in my humi do r fo r a ver y l o ng t ime, t he intensit y leve l may not b e at t he leve l ex p e c te d fo r t his br and. I also rem emb er previ ous c i gar s I ’ve sm oke d f r o m t he s ame b ox, all of t hem out st anding and t h o roughly enj oyabl e, even into t he last t hird, so t his o ne sh oul d be no exc ept i o n.

D ur ing t he f ir st t hird of t he sm ok ing, t he c o c k t ail c o me s ac ro s s

we ll - rounde d. T he note s f ro m t he r um and f ro m t he ver m out h are balanc e d, sug g e st ing t hat dr i er o r hi gher A BV r ums woul d not wo r k in t his c o c k t ail.

T he f lavo r s in t he c o c k t ail hi ghli ght t he t annins and leat her note s, w it h a war m f inish, w hile t he aro mas are undoubte dly c it r ic and re d w ine, mak ing t his a c o mp lete pair ing t hrough out t he lengt h of t he sm o k ing se s si o n.

J ust as I had susp e c te d p r i o r to li ght ing it up, af ter b eing ag e d fo r s o many year s, t he c i gar is exc e llent dur ing t he f ir st and se c o nd t hirds, never hi ding it s Cuban o r i gin.

I h o p e t hat you c an re c reate t his c o c k t ail, t ak ing c are to use a g o o d Ver m out h Ro s s o, and mak ing sure to c hill t he glas s and to use f re sh o r ang e p e e ls to give it t he uni que touc h.

Che er s!

Philip Ili Bar ake # GRCi gar Pair ing

Got Rum? June 2023 - 63

RUM

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