GOLDFOIL MAGAZINE - ISSUE 05 - ASCENSION

G OLDFOIL STYLING TIPS from FASHION WEEK TO YOUR WARDROBE

STEP INTO SPRING WITH OUR FAVOURITE BOOT STYLES

BASSCOUTUR EMBRACING HOPE AND CHAOS

ASCENSION FASHION WEEK AW21

Our Mission

At GoldFoil magazine we work with new and emerging talent within the fashion industry to bring you incredible content, interesting interviews, different points of view, and much more.

We believe that we are always able to do better, to expand our horizons, to learn and experience more.

Illustration by: Susanna Pugliese @susaaaannna 2

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ASCENSION Ascension. The act of rising or

ascending especially : the act of moving to a higher or more powerful position - it can be mental, societal, or spiritual. Change is constant, and most of all - it is inevitable. When I first sat down and thought about this issue I never thought it would go from a simple Fashion Week (Insert city here) review to something so deeply ingrained into our psyche. But the past year has affected everyone’s mental state, including the designers whom we had received press kits and notes from, some agreed to answer a few questions, but it all brought us to this idea that the solitude which struck us all almost a year ago, allowed for some deep introspective. Both Milan and Paris Fashion Week showing designers talked about a better understanding of the self and the ego, they talked about the evolving gender identities and how those social constructs were being broken apart.

Deyvid Dimitrov Editor 5

SYSTEM AW21

VALETTE

Photographer: Simone Eberle @passion.projects.photography

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SYSTEM AW21

STYLING TIPS FROM FASHION WEEK

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Photographer: Simone Eberle @passion.projects.photography Model: Chanty @chantys_page_

BOOTS TO ELEVATE YOUR LOOKS THIS SPRING

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MAISON SMALTO

JIEDA

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VALETTE

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DIOR SS21 HAUTE COUTURE

JIEDA

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DIORIVIERA AUTUMN2021 7

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Images courtesy of System Studios

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TYLING TIPS FROM FASHION

WEEK

To brighten up your Spring - Summer wardrobe

With fashion week on fire this season (Paris Fashion Week done, and LFW on the way), we decided to help you spice-up your outfits by introducing some styles straight from the catwalks without breaking the bank.

You would be surprised to see how many of these can be implemented with pieces you already own it is all about layering up and seeing what goes well and what doesn’t.

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Layering up is always in.

A padded blazer over a long dress and a belt seem to be a preferred combination for this Spring/ Summer.

OFF - WHITE

Louis Vuitton

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OFF - WHITE

Don’t be afraid to mix wide fitted trousers with high heels this Spring as this is what celebs are wearing - the brighter the colour, the better.

Louis Vuitton

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While the little black dress is coming back stronger than ever with a more modern silhouette, don’t underestimate the powerful statement that a pattern like Polka dots on a dress can make. Accessorised with a belt and a small bag in a bright colour (something between pastel and neon but neither of the two) will turn heads around.

Brandon Maxwell

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Lanvin

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Don’t underestimate the power of a statement jewellery piece. Back in Sep/Oct for their Spring Summer collections many designers presented their reimagined black dress, and apart from the new cuts, drapes, and silhouettes, they had layered jewellery on jewellery to create that extra citch look.

AZ Factory

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Photographer: Simone Eberle @passion.projects.photography Model: Chanty @chantys_page_

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Photographer: Simone Eberle @passion.projects.photography

Model: Chanty @chantys_page_

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TO E TH LEV IS ATE SP YO RI UR N G

A lightweight coat, a cozy jumper dress or shirt dress, and a new pair of designer boots are all you need when it comes to transitional Winter to Spring wear, it’s time to slip into something warm and a pair of stylish boots that come in all forms.

We saw many different styles of boots last season ranging from snow boots, and new classic leather knee high boots. Which styles will be your 2021 favorites? Brush up on the boots trends and how to style them, take a peek at some of our favorites below.

LO B O OO K TS S

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Looking for an outfit that is high end and cozy? Look no further here are a pair of Prada black leather and Nylon knee high boots to keep your feet warm this time of year, this look will be perfect with a Saint Laurent knitted black turtleneck jumper dress, and stylish Burberry trench coat, finish off the look with the recommended classic Chanel bag below.

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If you love neutrals then this next look you will find absolutely divine, this outfit perfectly fits in with the 2021 trends of the year so far, all your designer favorites are here, a stylish pair of nomad beige Chloe PVC rain boots, perfect for any winter weather, wear these boots with a white Balenciaga pleated poplin shirt dress, and this crème beige Balenciaga belted cotton-twill coat for a nonchalant look, finish off the look with the recommended sweet beige Chloe bag.

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Another neutral and warm beige look is this one, perfect for the chilly winter weather, these Christian Dior boots are to die for, pair them with either this Dior beige trench coat, or the Ted Baker camel wool wrap coat for a cozy look and wear with this relaxed belted turtleneck midi dress from & other stories, finish off the look with the recommended classic Lady Dior medium black bag.

Written by: Jessica Janes

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BA COUTU

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BassCoutur is a label based entirely on recycling, upcycling, and redesigning, and this season Riad Trabelsi is debuting his collection titled Nouvelle vie on the official schedule of Paris Fashion Week. The brand was relaunched back in 2018 promising to give a second life to deadstock remaining after a collection is made. If you remember, until recently many of the heritage brands in both Paris and Milan would burn their stock once the season is over to ensure the luxurious status of their name remains untouched by disallowing people to reduce prices. The designer often questions the audience and society on our over-consumerism habits and our impact on the planet. He is one of the new wave of designers storming into the world of fashion who are helping push the boundaries and expectations that society has of the staple brands, questioning and demanding responsibility.

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Images courtesy of Basscoutur

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The AW21 collection at BassCoutur does not disappoint, ‘’it has been fashioned like a refined old memory’’ feeling the roaring bass like in the old days, pre-pandemic, the thrill of simply living, the experience of freedom. With this feeling in mind we come across the mixture of attitude and structure, bringing in the new and making it feel like the old, with movement and added volume on a recycled and revisited silhouette.

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As Riad Trabelsi reminds us, while tomorrow is still far away it also feels closer than ever, and this collection is here to resurrect the burning fire. ‘’Scarves turn into shirts, the fabric is ever reborn, and the codes are upside down even on a classic and elegant suit with slack pants.’’

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SMALTO Images courtesy of Maison Smalto

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Graduated from THE INSTITUT FRANÇAIS DE LA MODE in 2018, Pierre-François Valette emerged through the studios of Isabel Marant and Saint Laurent. in March 2019, Valette won the Fashion Saint Laurent Couture Institute Prize. In January 2021, Valette Studio became part of the official calendar of Paris Fashion Week.

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Images courtesy of Valette

Valette Studio questions the heritage brands by opposing the structural norms and joins the army of contemporary designers who use traditional tailoring to tell the story of the modern individual.

This collection is inspired by subcultural identities using military silhouettes and modern art through which it radiates positivity and pride. Sustainability is a key element of Valette. Second hand fabrics and limited production on a pre-order basis are at the heart of the brand playing a substantial role in the collection.

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JIEDA

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JIEDA TRAVELS TO THE MIDWEST Inspired by the work of mid - 70's photographer and painter, Richard Prince’s rodeo photography, COME TO WHERE THE FLAVOR IS celebrates Prince’s fascination for the Marlboro’s cowboy hero and conveys the dry feeling of America's 70s’ culture. Jieda AW21 collection is presented through the lenses of the fashion movie A MAN and A HORSE. Set on a wide beach against the horizon, the film will focus on the character of a man straddling a breathless horse and will depict his vehement ride, while exploring his emotions.

Titled COME TO WHERE THE FLAVOUR IS, JIEDA’s AW21 Collection was presented as part of Milan Fashion Week’s official show calendar.

A brand established back in 2007 was well known for its streetwear look, but over the years the designer Hiroyuki Fujita has pushed the envelope and created this contemporary aesthetic oftentimes borrowing 70's styles and cultural references, while maintaining that same streetwear quality.

The Autumn/Winter collection is a homage to Western culture, starting from the cowboy boots all the way to the Marlboro ad references.

Straight baggy jeans, Levi’s inspired denim jackets, and boxy tailoring are amongst the few references made within the collection. The matching leather jacket and trousers set further elevate the looks, and the bolo ties present this charming formal appeal to a brand known for its casual streetwear style. The paint splatters, chunky oversized knitwear, and oversized tailored coats and blazers provide a sneak peek into the Midwestern culture, and create a very sartorial look which we are really excited to see Jieda explore.

Images courtesy of Jieda

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DIOR

HAUTE COUTURE SPRING-SUMMER 2021

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The collection was presented in a fantasy film by Matteo Garrone. It showed a girl entering a castle where she would meet her destiny and she would have to make a choice which would pave her way forward into the future. This is only fitting for the times such as right now where we are all sat at home just expecting a world returning back to normal, and a play of the card of Fate is an interesting allegory.

This season Maria Grazia Chiurri delivered a show at Dior Haute Couture Spring inspired by tarot card reading, and not just any tarot cards but the 15th century Visconti-Sforza deck executed by the illuminator Bonifacio Bembo for the Duke of Milan, adorned with gold. It is a wellknown fact that Christian Dior himself was into psychic reading, tarot cards, and he believed in the extraterrestrial, he used to have a fortune teller reading before his fashion shows, so it is only fitting that Maria Grazia pays a homage to Monsieur Dior.

Images courtesy of Dior

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For this collection Maria Grazia dips her feet into Renaissance and for a staple fashion house like Dior, it fits perfectly. It could be considered her strongest collection since she entered the house, and while she would often end up a laughing stock on social media to many fashion critics including ones with huge amassed following, this time it hits differently. The sheer amount of references from old Haute Couture collections of Dior, down to the traditional techniques and applications used to create these gorgeous fabrics, to the historical references, it is a wonderful collection to celebrate the house of Dior, and something we should be seeing more often.

And while not all of the pieces are to be celebrated, one can be sure that such a powerful story and some quite powerful pieces would definitely enhance the overall experience and it would be something that the Haute Couture consumer would appreciate. The leather lace breastplate jacket in pure black is a stunning art piece which we deserve to see on the red carpet once those become a thing again; it styled with the pair of black smoking trousers further reaffirm sher feminist message.

The more masculine and independent woman is rarely portrayed in Haute Couture so we can only appreciate this remark, plus it is great to see her feminist side expressed in a less blatant, overdone kind of way - t-shirts with slogans on them.

Maria Grazia Chiurri - you have now set our expectations high, so we will be expecting nothing less of a masterpiece next season.

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LOOK 45 - NUMÉRO 378 - 01/25/2021 Bustier dress embroidered with handmade flowers; skirt in greige gauze.

COPYRIGHT: Elina Kechicheva for Dior

With the light at the end of the tunnel of the pandemic clearly in sight, with more and more vaccines being produced and recognised, no wonder Dior jumped in and expanded on their beachwear - Dioriviera Autumn 2021.

The safari inspired collection features prints of animal drawings - from monkeys, tigers, and lions, to exotic birds and beautiful trees, crosshatched to create a printing press from the 19th century feel. With the main colours raspberry pink, and a yellow described as chartreuse - a French type of green - yellow liquor, which reminds us of the times of Galliano at Dior and the famous Nicole Kidman's dress from 1997.

Some of the more prominent pieces include a twotone half dipped co-ord outfit in lime green and chartreuse corduroy; a beautifully fitted longsleeved zip-up jacket with a zip-up bra, and zip-up shorts, in... you guessed it - chartreuse.

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Images courtesy of Dior 57

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Susanna Pugliese @susaaaannna

@goldfoilmag www.goldfoil.eu