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EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES AND JEWELRY

EDITORIAL TEXT Brice Lechevalier

8

PATEK PHILIPPE p.44

AUDEMARS PIGUET p.16

Enthralled

T

bricelechevalier gmtmagofficial

PATEK PHILIPPE

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Cover

PATEK PHILIPPE

5524G Calatrava Pilot Travel Time

25.07.25 15:25

HIS 2025 EDITION OF GMT XXL WORLD STANDS OUT IN SEVERAL WAYS. Let’s start with the good news: our GMT magazine is celebrating its 25th anniversary this year! A quarter of a century of passion that has accompanied watchmaking since the dawn of the third millennium and seen the industry undergo radical change. Some brands have vanished, others have emerged and still others have repositioned themselves – not to mention those whose appeal has propelled them to stratospheric desirability. This emotional and heritage capital is proving decisive today, at a time when economic and geopolitical uncertainty is dampening many desires. Brands and their creations must offer emotion and meaning, above and beyond the basics of reliability, functionality and compelling design.

At GMT, we are proud to showcase their expertise and creativity. Since 2013, GMT XXL World has been promoting these values in this unique format and equally singular production quality across more than 80 countries.

The watch industry’s incredible diversity is vividly reflected in our curated selection of creations reflecting exceptional talents. Produced by highly specialized

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

niche brands and global leaders who have continued to captivate devotees of fine watchmaking, such as Patek Philippe featured on the cover, we are delighted to showcase these here. This joyful mechanical cocktail makes for a lasting and valuable reading experience. For those who want to take things to a more immersive level, the GMT Watch Safari plunges them into the heart of Manufactures’ workshops, alongside the artisans and watchmakers who designed these exceptional timepieces. This exclusive concept is part of our approach as entrepreneurs passionate about watchmaking and the extraordinary personalities driving it. Over to you to choose the watches that enthrall you most and suit you best!

Brice Lechevalier, Founder & Editor-in-Chief

18

8212

F1828

17

58

814

EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES AND JEWELRY

CONTENTS

10 BLANCPAIN p.24

BREGUET p.28

H.MOSER & CIE. p.36

HUBLOT p.62

JAQUET DROZ p.40

Editorial

8

GMT WATCH SAFARI

12

GRAND PRIX D’HORLOGERIE DE GENÈVE

14

THE MILLENNIUM WATCH BOOK

64

FINE WATCHMAKING

FROM A TO Z A. Lange & Söhne

54

Armin Strom

56

Audemars Piguet

16

Bianchet

20

Blancpain

24

Breguet

28

Chopard

32

Hautlence

58

H. Moser & Cie.

36 VACHERON CONSTANTIN p.48

Hermès

60

Hublot

62

Jaquet Droz

40

A. LANGE & SÖHNE p.54

HERMÈS p.60

IMPRINT

GMT XXL World is the yearly worldwide issue of GMT (Great Magazine of Timepieces – the spirit of Haute Horlogerie since 2000).

PUBLISHER: GMT Publishing Sàrl, 23, Rue des Vollandes – CH-1207 Geneva (Tel : +41 22 404 20 00)

Patek Philippe

44

Vacheron Constantin

48

Van Cleef & Arpels

50

PUBLISHERS: Sébastien Lamunière and Brice Lechevalier CHIEF EDITOR: Brice Lechevalier (brice.lechevalier@gmtpublishing.com) DEPUTY CHIEF EDITOR: Marie de Pimodan (marie.depimodan@gmtpublishing.com) SALES DIRECTOR: Marine Kieffer (marine.kieffer@ worldtempus.com) CONTRIBUTORS: Brice Lechevalier, Olivier Müller, David Chokron, Pauline Estival, Marine Ulrich TRANSLATION: Susan Jacquet LAYOUT: Etc advertising & design Sàrl, Switzerland PHOTOLITHOGRAPHY: Bombie, Geneva PRINTER : Daneels, Beerse ISSN NUMBER : 2234-9367 SUBSCRIPTIONS : www.gmtmag.com

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES AND JEWELRY

GMT WATCH SAFARI

TEXT Brice Lechevalier

Breguet

Montblanc-Minerva

A VIP backstage view of the watch industry

I

magine a week of visits to a variety of small and large Manufactures enabling a full-immersion experience into the fascinating world of watchmaking and discovering the expertise of its most

skilled artisans.

Participants are accompanied by the GMT edi-

torial team and receive VIP treatment from the top executives of the brands welcoming them.

Each evening, a watchmaking encounter extends the experience. The week concludes with a guided tour of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève exhibition. Participants are accommodated in 4-star hotels, with all meals and transfers included.

On this occasion, they will also be given a preview of the 25-piece “Safari” limited series created for GMT’s 25th anniversary with a partner brand (guess which one?) whose CEO will also be in attendance.

Limited edition of 25 pieces

Chopard

GMT WATCH SAFARI 2025 26.10: Check-in at the Fraser Suites Geneva and welcome dinner 27.10: Tours of the Chopard and Breguet Manufactures, dinner with the founder of Lorige 28.10: Tours of the Jaeger-LeCoultre and Bovet Manufactures, check-in au Beaulac Neuchâtel, cocktail with the founder of Bianchet 29.10: Tours of the Cartier and L’Épée 1839 Manufactures, dinner with the CEO of L’Épée 1839 30.10: Tours of the Montblanc and TAG Heuer Manufactures, horology dinner 31.10: Tours of the Breitling Manufacture and the GPHG exhibition, closing dinner 01.11: Check-out and free weekend

THANKS TO OUR SPONSORS:

More info here

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

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EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES AND JEWELRY

GRAND PRIX D’HORLOGERIE DE GENÈVE

TEXT Brice Lechevalier

14

The “Oscars of Watchmaking” celebrate their 25 edition with GMT th

S

ince 2001, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de

AN EXCEPTIONAL EXHIBITION

A UNIQUE CEREMONY

Genève that annually rewards the

The selection of the 90 nominated watches for

As the highlight of the GPHG, the awards cere-

industry’s most deserving watches,

2025 will be exhibited this October in Shanghai

mony sees industry leaders and the watchmak-

brands and personalities has been

and Istanbul; followed in November by Geneva

ing community congregate in Geneva, generat-

regularly referred to as the Oscars

and Dubai (at the invitation of Dubai Watch

ing a great deal of excitement both on-stage and

of Watchmaking. The prizes are awarded in

Week). This traveling exhibition offers visitors a

in the audience. It will be broadcast live on 13

around 15 categories (such as chronograph or

chance to admire an exceptional selection of

November via our worldtempus.com website and

tourbillon), including the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand

watches reflecting the extreme diversity of fine

will take place for the first time in the city’s Bâti-

Prix that is considered the highest of “best-in-

watchmaking. Participants in the GMT Watch

ment des Forces Motrices. As this is the 25th edition of

show” distinctions. More than 1,000 members

Safari will enjoy a guided tour as soon as the

the event and its longstanding media partner

from around the world compose the GPHG Acad-

exhibition opens.

GMT is celebrating its 25th anniversary, GMT and

emy, which selects and votes for the watches of

the GPHG are organizing a joint “Off” event for

their choice. Among the brands featured in this

their special guests in an elegantly intimate

issue, Audemars Piguet, Breguet and Patek

atmosphere.

Philippe have already won the “Aiguille d’Or”, while A. Lange & Söhne, Blancpain, H. Moser & Cie., Hermès, Hublot, Vacheron Constantin and Van Cleef & Arpels have received awards in sev-

Scan to watch the ceremony and see all the selected watches

eral categories over the years.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

THE S OUND OF SER ENIT Y

925094 - 07/2025

Serenity is the only sound you will hear on board your new Prestige M7.

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EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES AND JEWELRY

AUDEMARS PIGUET

TEXT Olivier Müller

AUDEMARS PIGUET

16

Making it all about

the user!

Audemars Piguet has released a new perpetual

organisation whose local roots have made Le

calendar caliber. While this is already an event

Brassus one of the global epicenters of Swiss-

in itself given that a movement can remain in a

made high-end watchmaking: a dream destiny

Manufacture’s collections for several decades, it

basically unimaginable for a small village of

also reflects the company’s desire to make the

just 1,500 inhabitants.

perpetual calendar both easier to set and more

Along the way, Audemars Piguet has never

legible, thereby placing the user firmly front

lost sight of its goals nor its tradition of innova-

and center of developments.

tion. Its latest perpetual calendars are a testa-

In 2025, Audemars Piguet is celebrating its

ment to this. Before understanding them, one

150th anniversary, although that would be too

needs to grasp their essence, since they repre-

brief a summary of the event. For “AP” – as it

sent a welcome move of replacing the core

called by those in the know – this is far more

emphasis on the wearer.

than just a commemorative occasion. This is indeed one of the last remaining 100% independent heavyweights in the realm of Haute Horlogerie. It is also a firm that has always remained family-owned and additionally, represents 150 years of uninterrupted activity. Finally, it is an

Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar / 41mm CASE: white gold SIZE: 41mm, 10.6mm thick

MOVEMENT: Caliber 7138 with perpetual calendar, 4 Hz, 55h power reserve FUNCTIONS: week, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours, minutes DIAL: smoked blue, white gold hour-markers and hands STRAP: blue textured rubber with calfskin lining, 18-carat white gold three-piece folding clasp

Along the way, Audemars Piguet has never lost sight of its goals nor its tradition of innovation.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

THE FIRST “USER-FRIENDLY” PERPETUAL CALENDARS In concrete terms, this means making the perpetual calendar easy to use and intuitive: in a nutshell, user-friendly. Not that this detracts from the Vallée de Joux’ well-deserved reputa-

ONE CALIBER, TWO MODELS

tion when it comes to this complication. On the

The emphasis is therefore firmly on ergonomics

contrary, the approach breaks the taboo of

and the same goes for the dial: namely to

“watches for watchmakers”, which have previ-

enhance legibility by playing with volumes,

ously virtually required a master’s degree in

spaces and above all finishes. The calendar is

microtechnology to adjust.

intuitive to read. The day, date and month can

This approach is embodied in a new caliber –

be read from left to right. The week number is

the first signs of which were in fact perceptible

displayed on the inner bezel. The 24-hour and

in the Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4

leap-year indicators are nestled in subdials har-

(2023). Caliber 7138 is now protected by five pat-

moniously positioned on either side of the dial

ents, obtained after five years of development.

at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively.

Everything is adjustable via an all-in-one crown

Caliber 7138 is simultaneously introduced on a

which has four different positions. The first

smoked blue Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet and

(position 1) is used for winding the movement

two 41mm Royal Oak watches: one in steel and

clockwise. Pulled out by one notch (position 2),

the other in the brand’s proprietary sand gold

the crown sets the date clockwise as well as the

alloy. The latter once again showcases its Grande

month and leap year counter-clockwise. One

Tapisserie dial, an integral part of the Royal Oak

more notch (position 3) enables time-setting in

icon; while the former opts for a more contem-

both directions. Pushing the crown back one

porary PVD-embossed dial, where the finesse of

notch (position 2) corrects the day and week in a

the guilloché work can be appreciated in a more

clockwise direction and the moon phase in the

boldly modern white gold case, teamed with a

opposite direction.

textile-finish rubber strap.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar / 41mm

CASE: steel or sand gold, 41mm, 9.5mm thick

MOVEMENT: Caliber 7138 with perpetual calendar, 4 Hz, 55h power reserve FUNCTIONS: week, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours, minutes DIAL: Grande Tapisserie BRACELET: steel or 18-carat sand gold with AP folding clasp

AUDEMARS PIGUET

18

Blue skies

ahead in Le Brassus Developing a new color is no easy task. Audemars Piguet has now created a ceramic version of its iconic “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” shade, originally developed in 1972 for the first Royal Oak (Model 5402). It now adorns three new models from the Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore collections: a Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked model in 41mm, along with two Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronographs

Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 42mm

CASE: “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic, titanium back and

sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, crown, pushers and pusher guards in “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic, water-resistant to 100m SIZE: 42mm in diameter, 15.3mm thick MOVEMENT: mechanical selfwinding Caliber 4404, 4 Hz, 70h power reserve FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, small seconds, flyback chronograph and date DIAL: Mega Tapisserie pattern, 18-carat white gold hour-markers and hands coated with luminescent material BRACELET: “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic, AP titanium buckle

The watch industry is so prolific that it’s easy to forget the ingenuity it demonstrates daily in attracting watch collectors. Among these treasures, the simplest is the color of its models.

Often relegated to a background role compared with horological complications or “revolutionary” materials, the hue of a case or dial is nevertheless a challenging exercise. Why? Because first one must find the right color, then figure out

in 42mm and 43mm. The story of a fascinating

how to achieve it and finally how to apply it to the

quest for blue.

case, bracelet, bezel and crown. All these variables make the color equation quite complex.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

AUDEMARS PIGUET

19

A TOUGH PATH

NUAGE 50 FOR THREE MODELS

By choosing ceramic as the material for its vari-

Speaking of several months or even years of

plays on light and accentuate the geometry of

ation on “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50,” Audemars

development for a ceramic color is therefore not

the case.

Piguet definitely did not take the easy route. In

a marketing ploy but instead a reality. The Man-

To achieve the perfect result, the new “Bleu

its raw state, ceramic is a powder and when

ufacture from Le Brassus has been working with

Nuit, Nuage 50” dials are PVD-treated to ensure

fired, it can be resistant to certain surface treat-

ceramics since 1986 and is well aware of all the

color uniformity. First, the Royal Oak Double

ments and finishes. It is almost paradoxical:

ups and downs, twists and turns involved. This

Balance Wheel Openworked, which many col-

extremely hard, yet equally brittle. Its durabil-

particularly dense material poses another chal-

lectors agree is the best-hidden treasure in the

ity is closely linked to the factors involved in

lenge: its finish.

AP lines. Next, two Offshore models, the irrev-

developing it. At what temperature should it be

The finishes associated with the Royal Oak are

erent adventurer available in a 42mm ceramic

fired? Broadly speaking, between 500°C and

appreciated by collectors and are a must for

version or in a 43mm interpretation with a steel

1000°C. How many times does it go through the

Audemars Piguet. The quality of these finishes

case and leather or rubber strap. Today, the sky

kiln and for how long? That depends precisely…

must be identical to those used on precious

that inspired “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” has never

on the temperature chosen.

materials such as gold or platinum. The depth

looked so radiant.

Ultimately, it is a highly complex “recipe”

of the color is revealed by the alternating pol-

that is kept a closely guarded secret. It could

ished and satin-brushed surfaces, which create

almost be regarded as a “watch exterior complication” in which experience is just as important as empiricism and for which the result must then be replicated on an industrial scale and guaranteed for virtually unlimited longevity.

Ultimately, it is a highly complex “recipe” that is kept a closely guarded secret.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES AND JEWELRY

BIANCHET

TEXT David Chokron

BIANCHET

20

Standing on principle Bianchet’s new UltraFino is a foray into slim,

ON THE SCALES

skeleton complication timepieces. It relies on a

The second material used in the B 1.618 UltraFino

carbon bracelet accounts for 23 and the entire

slender

self-winding

line is carbon, with a hint of colored rubber. The

movement for a mere eight. While definitely liv-

shock-resistant movement along with its design

B 1.618 UltraFino Carbon uses a 500-layer compos-

ing up to its UltraFino name, this thoroughly

guidelines rooted in the use of the Golden Ratio.

ite to craft the caseband, bezel, caseback as well

well-designed B 1.618 model is equally worthy of

The UltraFino Titanium is offered in two differ-

as every link of its integrated bracelet. It is a

the superleggera moniker – which is indeed not the

ent versions. The first features a blue dial with a

monochrome, single-material, extremely sophis-

collection’s only “super” attribute.

textured surface that’s really a succession of

ticated and very rare model. It is also very light,

diamond shapes. It makes for a more formal

weighing in at just 55 grams, of which its full-

all-new

openworked

wear and enhanced legibility, with the hands standing out against the solid background. The second has no dial to speak of and this particular B 1.618 UltraFino Skeleton leaves nothing to the imagination. Both pieces are secured to the wrist with either a rubber strap or an integrated full-titanium bracelet with wide faceted links.

The full titanium B1.618 UltraFino is graphic from movement to bracelet links.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

ON THE WRIST The common threads running throughout the brand’s collections are its reliance on a tonneau shape as well as the golden ratio. The B 1.618

ON AVERAGE

UltraFino line reflects these signature features,

Such a feat could only be possible with a slim

while being far slimmer than Bianchet’s other

movement and Bianchet’s latest is named UT01

offerings. One of its defining traits is its curva-

to reflect its status as the brand’s first ultra-thin

ture following that of the wrist, making for ergo-

caliber. It measures 3.85mm thick, which is

nomic wear thanks to continuous contact

quite slim in the true sense of the term.

between caseback and skin. This element is espe-

Although an avalanche of slimness records have

cially important with slim cases, which require

set an otherwise unattainable threshold for this

extra design effort to achieve a good fit, given

quality, the real aim of a thin movement is not

their modest vertical dimension that makes it

to beat someone else’s specs sheet. It is instead

hard to create a curve on such timepieces.

to enable a harmonious, elegant, overall

Although it should be ubiquitous, this feature is

impression where a movement belongs: inside

not the norm and Bianchet deserves praise for

a case – and the latter definitely belongs on a

achieving it within an overall 8.9mm thickness.

wrist rather than inside a caliper.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

UltraFino Titanium

CASE: titanium, sapphire crystal and caseback, waterresistant to 50m, shock resistant to 5000Gs SIZE: 40 x 47.40mm; 8.9mm thick MOVEMENT: mechanical, self-winding, skeleton Caliber UT01, 3Hz, 60h power reserve, solid gold skeleton rotor FUNCTIONS: hours and minutes, flying tourbillon DIAL: fully skeletonized or blue with diamond pattern, baton-type hands with luminescent coating BRACELET/STRAP: titanium bracelet and blue rubber strap on titanium folding clasp

BIANCHET

22

ON POINT Caliber UT01 has even more to offer than just its modest thickness. First of all, it is a tonneaushaped movement and these are not that common, even in tonneau-shaped watches. As you may have guessed, its relative proportions are extrapolated from the Golden Ratio. Secondly, despite its relative thinness, Bianchet has man-

UltraFino Carbon

CASE: carbon, sapphire crystal and caseback, water-

resistant to 50m, shock resistant to 5000Gs SIZE: 40 x 47.4mm; 8.9mm thick MOVEMENT: mechanical, selfwinding, skeleton Caliber UT01, 3Hz, 60h power reserve, solid gold skeleton rotor FUNCTIONS: hours and minutes, flying tourbillon DIAL: fully skeletonized, baton-type hands with luminescent coating STRAP: carbon bracelet and red rubber strap with a titanium folding clasp

reserve. Point three, that rotor is no run-of-themill semi-circle made of a heavy, nondescript metal. It’s crafted from solid gold and openworked into a series of 12 interlaced spirals.

Once again, if you’ve surmised that they have something to do with the Golden Ratio, you’re spot on.

aged to make it a self-winding movement, a welcome feature that usually comes in the form of a micro-rotor. Yet Bianchet has succeeded in keeping a full-sized winding rotor. The larger the winder, the more energy it derives from a moving wrist and that certainly helps feed the rather large barrel and ensure a 60-hour power

The B1.618 UltraFino Carbon is a rare combination of design, watchmaking, materials and lightness.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

ON PAPER

ON TARGET

Point four directly relates to Bianchet’s ethos.

It bears mentioning that both B 1.618 UltraFino

The way the movement surfaces have been cut

are surprisingly competitive. As pricetags go in

open and beveled reveals actual horological ambi-

this day and age, a tonneau-shaped, gold-rotor-

tion. The UT01 is not your average skeleton. It’s

driven, skeleton, well-finished timepiece with

graphically advanced: on the dial side, the barrel

such a design edge and overall horological fea-

balances out the tourbillon carriage. Between

tures (not to mention a tourbillon – and a flying

them, a bow-shaped bridge bears the hands. On

one at that) could fetch a much higher price

either side of the caliber, an arched bridge covers

than this one. Yet the flying tourbillon fitted

the gear train to the left and the winding mecha-

inside the B 1.618 UltraFino is not a bonus. It is

nism to the right. On the rear side, the main-

very much the core of this watch. Witness the

plate has been arranged in overlapping circles

care with which the carriage’s three spokes are

whose dimensions have everything to do with

beveled. Notice the recessed secondary level that

1.618 – and the entire mechanism is made of tita-

accentuates the overall depth in an otherwise

nium. Despite this filigree-work appearance,

slim movement. See the painstakingly designed,

Caliber UT01 has been tested to 5000g shocks and

sliding triangular balance-cock. See how the

on the wrist of the brand’s ambassadors, includ-

balance is silver in color, not your regular yel-

ing Haas F1 driver Esteban Ocon and tennis star

lowish brass that stands out like an eyesore.

Alexander Bublik who never plays without his B

There is color, design and overall consistency in

1.618 UltraFino Carbon.

the UT01. With this movement and collection, Bianchet certainly stands on principle.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES AND JEWELRY

BLANCPAIN

TEXT Olivier Müller

BLANCPAIN

24

Fifty Fathoms From tool watch to lifestyle diver

38MM: THE DIVER’S WATCH FOR EVERY WRIST The Fifty Fathoms is an authentic diver’s watch,

Beyond its exploratory and then military uses,

yet the essence of its unique nature remains

the timepiece was gradually adorned with new

invisible. The current image of a diver’s watch

materials (titanium, ceramics), unprecedented

with its dark dial, large luminescent hands,

nuances, varied diameters and complications.

locking rotating bezel, reinforced water-resis-

What was missing from the venerable Fifty

tance and automatic, anti-magnetic movement

Fathoms? A smaller diameter, new colors and

stems from this watch. Born in 1953, the Fifty

an interchangeable strap – now all part of this

Fathoms is not just any diver’s watch, but

latest interpretation.

indeed the first. It wrote the codes, invented the technical solutions and set the standard for the entire industry.

Since then, the Fifty Fathoms (literally named after its water resistance certified at 91.44 meters in 1953) has never ceased to evolve.

The Fifty Fathoms has become a lifestyle icon capturing the essence of its era.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

BLANCPAIN

25

Fifty Fathoms Automatique

CASE: 18K red gold, grade 23 titanium or stainless steel, water-resistant to 300m SIZE: 38.2mm diameter, 12mm thick MOVEMENT: Manufacture Blancpain Caliber 1150 or 1153, self-winding, 100h power reserve, 3Hz frequency FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, seconds, with or without date DIAL: Mother-of-pearl with black or pink gradient, blue, black, Hands enhanced with Super-LumiNova, red or white gold hour-markers enhanced with SuperLumiNova STRAP/BRACELET: Tropic, NATO, sailcloth strap, stainless steel bracelet or grade 23 titanium bracelet, pin buckle or folding clasp

By combining these three changes within a

its proportions remain harmoniously balanced,

reserve of 100 hours, or more than four days –

new range, Blancpain has not merely enriched

ensuring a nicely poised fit on slimmer wrists. It

one of the highest for a diver’s watch. Water-

its current collection. It has literally created an

was also deemed important to preserve the dial’s

resistance is guaranteed to 300 meters, well

original segment, opening up a new avenue for

maximum breadth so as to guarantee perfect leg-

beyond the requirements of ISO 6425, which cer-

its Fifty Fathoms. The timepiece has become a

ibility of the hours and minutes, an essential

tifies them to a minimum depth of 100 meters.

lifestyle icon capturing the essence of its era.

attribute of a diver’s watch.

Last but not least, it features a silicon balance-

Freer, more playful and as robustly functional as

The first two models that were launched

spring. Present on almost all Blancpain watches,

ever, this strikingly chic model becomes the

proudly assert their sporty-chic status, perhaps

it offers perfect resistance to variations in both

companion of everyday life on boat decks, as

more designed with women in mind. Their

magnetic fields and temperature: two essential

well as of outings, parties and day trips.

cases are in 18K red gold or titanium. The dial is

assurances for a diving watch designed today for

The model already existed in 45 and 42mm ver-

in mother-of-pearl, chosen as much for its mar-

the open air and sunshine.

sions and its 38mm diameter opens it up to a

itime background as for its countless shimmer-

The next three references (Cal. 1150 with date)

vast-ranging audience. Many collectors appreci-

ing reflections, reminiscent of the ocean’s sur-

combine two dial colors (blue or black) with

ate the understated nature of a diameter that

face in the sunlight. To ensure a smooth

three cases (titanium, steel or red gold) and five

was the norm back in the 1950s. Five new refer-

transition with the unidirectional bezel in

different straps/bracelets (Nato, tropic, sail-

ences have been added to the collection, demon-

domed black or pink sapphire, the dial is slightly

cloth, titanium (for the titanium case) and steel

strating Blancpain’s determination to ensure

smoked with a dark to light gradient. The Nato

(for the steel case). Their new 38mm diameter

they endure. The Maison makes no secret of the

strap matches these tones and to suit every

makes them perfectly unisex. Depending on

fact that these new models are only the first in a

taste, each timepiece is offered with alternative

the configuration chosen, each wearer can then

38mm range destined for future expansion.

Tropic or Nato straps, plus sailcloth for the black

opt to highlight one of the strong points of the

mother-of-pearl version and a titanium bracelet

new Fifty Fathoms, underscoring their identity

for the pink one.

as a pure diver’s watch, an all-terrain tool

The efforts devoted to design and development proved equal to the challenge. They are not simply proportionally smaller versions of their prede-

These variations retain their operational excel-

watch, or a lifestyle wristwatch. This smaller,

cessors. The 38mm line is a full-fledged creation.

lence and Blancpain has chosen to equip them

lively timepiece features sunburst dials des-

It has been extensively redesigned to ensure that

with its self-winding Caliber 1153. It has a power

tined to shine on all daily occasions.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

TECHNICAL AND CHIC At the opposite end of the spectrum, Blancpain unveils a brand-new variation of its professional Fifty Fathoms, known as “Tech”. This is a 45mm timepiece that is also joining the current collection. It pushes the boundaries of operational diving watches to the limit, as illustrated by its absolute black dial absorbing up to 97% of light.

By contrast, the new luminescent block-shaped hours and minutes markers shine exceptionally brightly underwater. Its robustness is ensured by the use of a grade 23 titanium case with helium valve. Its movement has a five-day power reserve.

Fifty Fathoms Tech

CASE: grade 23 titanium, water-resistant to 300m SIZE: 45mm in diameter, 14.1mm thick

MOVEMENT: Manufacture Blancpain Caliber 1315A, self-winding, 120h power reserve, 4Hz frequency FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL: absolute black, hands with Super-LumiNova, orange seconds hand, applied luminescent block-type hour-markers STRAP: integrated black, white and orange rubber strap, multiple sizes, two straps included, tool-free interchangeability, pin buckle

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

MARINE FRESHNESS Finally, in line with these colorful flights of Blancpain President & CEO Marc A. Hayek

fancy, Blancpain presents three ceramic Fifty

nonetheless “loves that we can bring color and

Fathoms: a flyback chronograph and two three-

style into the Tech line, proving that a serious

hand-plus-date models. These timepieces are

diver’s watch can also have a lifestyle side”. The

part of the Bathyscaphe range, created in 1956 as

result for the Fifty Fathoms Tech 45mm is a sys-

an urban alternative to its diving twin. The

tem of straps/bracelets that are interchangeable

vibrant hues reflect this orientation: one blue in

tool-free. In addition to black, two new colors

a nod to maritime origins, the other electric

are available: bright white and bright orange.

green reflecting the call of Nature.

The look can thus be adapted to the mood and

These colorful, fresh and dynamic dials are

style of each individual. As collectors assert their

suited to sport, to everyday life both on land and

personality, the watch adapts without ever

at sea. They offset the technical character of

denying its technical qualities, facilitating

ceramic, whose satin-finish anthracite appear-

access to all outdoor horizons. Designed for the

ance will also guarantee a certain more formal

ocean, it is now also cut out for everyday wear.

elegance. This highly resistant material is also

“When we developed the Fifty Fathoms Tech

25% lighter than steel, yet five times harder.

Gombessa in 2023, it came from the question I

Each new version is equipped with a silicon bal-

asked myself: If the Fifty Fathoms was invented

ance-spring and a unidirectional bezel with a

today, what would it look like?” says Marc A.

ceramic inlay. Proof that it is indeed possible to

Hayek. The answer is now clear: a lifestyle icon.

be beautiful and sparkling, yet robust.

When we developed the Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa in 2023, it came from the question I asked myself: If the Fifty Fathoms was invented today, what would it look like?

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe

CASE: black ceramic, ceramic bezel inlay, water-resistant to 300m SIZE: 43.6mm in diameter, 13.83mm thick (three hands) or 15.25mm (flyback chronograph) MOVEMENT: Manufacture Blancpain Caliber 1315, self-winding, 120h power reserve, 4Hz frequency (three hands) or Caliber F385, self-winding, 50h power reserve, 5Hz frequency (flyback chronograph) FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, seconds, date/flyback chronograph DIAL: sunburst blue or sunburst green BRACELET/STRAP: ceramic, NATO or sailcloth, pin buckle or folding clasp

EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES AND JEWELRY

BREGUET

TEXT Olivier Müller

BREGUET

28

Two hundred and fifty years of

peak performance TYPE XX: SEMPER FIDELIS

Breguet is now celebrating its 250th anniver-

The Type XX is unique within the Breguet col-

sary and the Type XX has clearly been placed

lections, an atypical piece hovering between its

back on the drawing board. This time, a clear

20 -century roots and their contemporary pro-

decision has been taken, with this model

jection. Among other collections united by the

offered in two versions unambiguously opting

same aesthetic codes, it is a tireless adventurer

to remain loyal to the collection’s historical

that refuses to bow to convention. A timepiece

roots. The diameter has been considerably

with a strong personality, intimately bound up

reduced to 38.3mm and the date has been

with the conquest of the skies, a field notably

removed – a welcome change for a dial now fea-

pioneered by the Breguet family.

turing a more compact surface.

th

In 2023, the House gave it a new lease on life.

The timepiece was equipped with a 100% inhouse flyback chronograph movement. This exceptional “engine” was launched by the CEO at the time, himself a watchmaker. While the mechanism itself was universally acclaimed, the 42mm diameter was sometimes challenged.

The choice of a hand-wound chronograph appeals to collectors, who appreciate the daily ritual of winding their timepiece.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

BREGUET

29

Type XX Chronograph

CASE: 18K Breguet gold, water-resistant to 50m SIZE: 38.3mm in diameter, 13.2mm thick

MOVEMENT: hand-wound Caliber 7278, numbered and signed by Breguet, 257 components, 5 Hz frequency (36,000 vibrations per hour), flat silicon balance-spring, 60h power reserve, hand-engraved Breguet 19 airplane, route of the first transatlantic flight from Paris to New York traced on the back of the movement FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, seconds, flyback chronograph DIAL: 925 silver or black anodized aluminum, 18K Breguet gold hours and minutes hands enhanced with beige luminescent material, 18K gold Breguet applique STRAP: calfskin (blue or anthracite depending on model), 18K Breguet gold pin buckle

The case features a poetic alignment of the planets, as this year marks the 95th anniversary Finally, the last major change is that the chro-

of that historic flight in 1930. Just 25 years later,

nograph is no longer self-winding but instead

in 1955, Breguet released its first Type XX in gold,

hand-wound. This choice reflects the prefer-

which inspired today’s two new models. It was

ences of a growing number of collectors, who

probably the shortest-lived limited edition in the

appreciate the daily ritual of winding their

history of the House: only three were ever made

watch. What’s more, this option is consistent

and the Breguet Museum owns one of them.

with the 1950s Type XX models to which they

Finally, in 2025, the Manufacture is commem-

pay tribute: it would have been historically

orating both its 250th anniversary and the 75th

inaccurate to offer a self-winding 1950s chrono-

anniversary of this extremely rare 1955 time-

graph, since such a movement did not appear

piece, one of the most sought-after collector’s

until 1969. The removal of the rotor originally

items of all time. To honor these multiple occa-

associated with the self-winding movement

sions, the new Type XX with flyback chrono-

also provides a bird’s eye view of the caliber’s

graph is available in two versions: with a black

baseplate. Breguet has taken this opportunity

aluminum or a silver-toned dial, like the origi-

to engrave it with the first transatlantic flight

nal 1955 model. Each is crafted in Breguet gold,

from Paris to New York, made on 1 and 2 Sep-

the new in-house alloy composed of 75% gold

tember 1930, aboard a Breguet 19TR aircraft.

enriched with silver, copper and palladium.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

THE FIRST FLYING TOURBILLON

BY BREGUET On 26 June 1801, Breguet obtained a patent for

shape, escapement and frequency in dozens of

his invention of the tourbillon. On 26 June 2025,

movements. In this respect, this new 250th anni-

to mark the 250th anniversary of the Manufac-

Classic Tourbillon Sidéral 7255

versary model continues the great watchmak-

ture now bearing his name, the House unveiled

SIZE: 38mm in diameter, 10.2mm thick

er’s enduring quest and is another chapter in a

MOVEMENT: 1-minute tourbillon, hand-wound Caliber

book continuously written since 1801.

its first flying tourbillon.

Such a short-cut is flattering, yet over simplistic. In reality, two other things should be noted.

The first is that throughout his lifetime, Abraham-Louis Breguet himself constantly explored variations on his tourbillon, modifying its

CASE: 18K Breguet gold, water-resistant to 30m

187M1, numbered and signed by Breguet, 183 components, 2.5 Hz frequency (18,000 vibrations per hour), 50h power reserve FUNCTIONS: hours and minutes at 12 o’clock DIAL: Grand Feu aventurine enamel, Breguet open-tipped hours and minutes hands in 18K Breguet gold, 18K gold Breguet appliques STRAP: navy blue alligator leather, triple-blade folding clasp in 18K Breguet gold NUMBERED, HAND-ENGRAVED 50-PIECE LIMITED EDITION

Secondly, the timepiece is actually called the “Classique Tourbillon Sidéral” and – for the first time in Breguet’s history – features an aventurine dial. This option reinforces the tourbillon’s name: back in Abraham-Louis Breguet’s time, the French word tourbillon was used to describe a

In Breguet’s time, the French word tourbillon was used to describe a constantly rotating cosmological system (vortex). The aventurine dial reflects this starry perspective.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

constantly rotating cosmological system (vortex). The aventurine dial reflects this starry perspective. In the same spirit, the choice of a “mysterious” tourbillon is also noteworthy. It is driven by invisible sapphire crystal gears, a construction every bit as intriguingly impenetrable as the laws of gravity were at the time, as their first mysteries were just starting to be unraveled

by Breguet’s contemporaries.

One invention at a time

A.-L. Breguet redefined the art of horology with his inventions. His pursuit of perfection continues to inspire those shaping the future.

To celebrate this legacy, Breguet introduces the new Classique Souscription 2025, crafted in the exclusive new Breguet gold.

breguet.com

EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES AND JEWELRY

CHOPARD

TEXT Olivier Müller

CHOPARD

32

Soaring to new

horological heights

Some quests are pursued quietly and increas-

The specifications were draconian and involved

ing power reserve is one of them. Although it is

creating a timepiece with extended autonomy,

the primary concern for many collectors, prog-

yet no thicker than traditional models and just

ress has so far been negligible. Sixty years ago, the standard was usually 36 hours. Most calibers now offer 42 hours — meaning a mere sixhour gain in six decades. Chopard, however, opted to take action against this stagnation.

Until the year 2000, the Maison had only one inhouse movement — L.U.C 96.01-L. It nonetheless chose to throw all its energy into the powerreserve battle with its second caliber, which was

L.U.C Quattro - Mark IV

CASE: 950 platinum or 18-carat ethical rose gold,

water-resistant to 30m SIZE: 39mm in diameter, 10.4mm thick MOVEMENT: manual-winding mechanical, L.U.C Caliber 98.09-L, 4 Hz, 216-hour power reserve (nine days), COSC chronometer certification and Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, small seconds, date at 6 o’clock, power-reserve indicator on the bridge, stop-seconds device DIAL: frosted brass, PVD treatment, fusee-type Dauphine hands STRAP: interchangeable grained calfskin with tone-ontone stitching, or alligator leather with tone-on-tone stitching

as accurate as any other wristwatch. This was a challenge akin to squaring the circle, because technically speaking, the more torque the barrels deliver, the harder it is for the escapement to regulate it accurately — just like an engine too powerful for a car that would end up crashing off the track or road if thus equipped.

named L.U.C 98.01-L. Chopard’s intuition was not to jettison two centuries of watchmaking in an attempt to surpass them. Such an approach would be entirely out of character for Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, who remains eminently respectful of his predecessors’ endeavors. Instead, the Maison decided to capitalize on the principle of barrels and mainsprings, but to configure them differently.

Chopard’s intuition was not to jettison two centuries of watchmaking in an attempt to surpass them, an approach that would be entirely out of character for Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

The solution was named Quattro. It consists of four series-coupled barrels stacked in pairs, containing nearly 1.9 meters of springs. Unique in all the world, this configuration delivers a 216hour (nine-day) power reserve. This is an extraordinary performance, as by way of comparison, many desk clocks do not even achieve this level.

What’s more, this power is delivered with constant force to the escapement, meaning the

NEW MOON

timepiece can therefore earn COSC chronometer

This design work has also been implemented on

certification. The Quattro’s perfect viability is

the new L.U.C Lunar One, a perpetual calendar

confirmed by the fact that is still in use 25 years

with astronomical moon-phase display. The

after its first presentation in 2000. It has also

case likewise features a bassine shape in 18-carat

been fitted in many of the L.U.C collection’s

ethical white or rose gold, a slightly domed

other timepieces equipped with complications,

crystal and a fluted bezel. It retains the 40.5mm

such as the tourbillon, perpetual calendar tour-

diameter that is greatly prized by collectors for

billon, jumping-hour and regulator models.

perpetual calendars. The L.U.C Lunar One’s sig-

Two new L.U.C Quattro – Mark IV editions fea-

nature wide double date aperture appears at 12

ture a variant of this movement, L.U.C Caliber

o’clock on a gold dial, enhanced by a guilloché

98.09-L, which relocates the power-reserve indi-

pattern radiating from the astronomical moon.

cator to a movement bridge, thereby signifi-

A concentric sunburst pattern adorns the outer

cantly lightening the dial layout. The first is in

edge of the dial, beneath the railway-type min-

platinum, the second in 18-carat ethical rose

utes track. Moreover, for the first time at

gold. Both benefit from the additional and com-

Chopard, these new models feature inter-

plete aesthetic overhaul of the L.U.C collection,

changeable straps – two in alligator leather and

consisting of a vertically satin-brushed bassine-

one in calfskin – supplied with the watch, com-

shaped case, a slightly domed sapphire crystal,

plemented by a wide range of materials and col-

the original L.U.C logo and applied lugs.

ors available in the catalog.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

L.U.C Lunar One

CASE: 18-carat ethical gold, water-resistant to 30m SIZE: 40.5mm in diameter, 11.63mm thick

MOVEMENT: bidirectional self-winding, L.U.C Caliber 96.13-L, 4Hz, 65h power reserve, chronometer-certified by the COSC and Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark FUNCTIONS: central hours and minutes, perpetual calendar with day, date, month and leap-year cycle, leap month and year at 3 o’clock, small seconds at 6 o’clock, precision moon phase in a rotating window (orbital moon) for the Northern and Southern hemispheres at 6 o’clock, 24-hour scale and day of the week at 9 o’clock, semi-instantaneous display of the large date in a twin aperture at 12 o’clock DIAL: 18-carat ethical gold obtained by galvanic treatment, sunburst guilloché pattern centered on the moon phase STRAP: interchangeable in navy blue alligator leather with tone-on-tone stitching, or in blue grained calfskin with tone-on-tone stitching, 18-carat ethical white gold pin buckle

CHOPARD

34

LIGHTER, MORE PRECISE

terable and as resistant as ceramic. The tita-

The new Alpine Eagle explores another area of

nium dial reflects its sporty nature with subtle

watchmaking: ultra-high frequency and ultra-

orange accents. This set of characteristics is

light weight, reaching fresh peaks of achieve-

summed up in two letters reserved for discern-

ment. The 250-piece limited edition of its third

ing collectors: SL, for Super Light. As with its

chapter features a 41mm case, crown, bezel,

predecessors, the precision of this movement is

base and bridges in ceramic-coated titanium

certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Test-

with a beadblasted finish. The material is unal-

ing Authority.

The new Alpine Eagle explores another area of watchmaking: that of very ultra-high frequency and ultra-light weight, thanks to the use of ceramic-coated titanium.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF

CASE: ceramicised grade 5 titanium, water-resistant to 100m SIZE: 41mm in diameter, 9.75mm thick MOVEMENT: high-frequency self-winding mechanical Chopard Caliber 01.14-C, 4 Hz, 60h power reserve, chronometer-certified by the COSC FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, seconds, semiinstantaneous date display between 4 and 5 o’clock, stop-seconds function DIAL: titanium stamped with a radiating pattern, PVD treatment, applied hour-markers and numerals STRAP: black or orange rubber with titanium insert, or black calfskin with orange stitching, ceramic-coated titanium pin buckle 250-PIECE LIMITED EDITION IN CERAMICISED TITANIUM WITH PITCH BLACK DIAL.

EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES AND JEWELRY

H. MOSER & CIE.

TEXT Olivier Müller

H. MOSER & CIE.

36

From engine to color H. Moser & Cie. is (once again) breaking new

Let’s face it: it’s been a long time since we’ve

nering with Alpine Motorsports. While the

ground with its first “semi-connected” watch,

seen an exciting watchmaking project applied

Schaffhausen-based Manufacture had no expe-

featuring mechanical hours and minutes teamed

to motor sports. After an avalanche of stop-

rience in motor sports, one can easily imagine

with a connected module developed by Sequent.

watches and torrential floods of co-branding,

the response of its ebullient CEO Édouard Mey-

Meanwhile, the Pioneer collection welcomes a

we thought we’d seen it all. Hence the surprise

lan, “All the more reason to acquire some.” The

flashy, pop-inspired trio.

created by H. Moser & Cie. First of all, by part-

subtext is clearly an interest in shaking up this long-established

The power reserve of the first H. Moser & Cie. “semi-connected” watch is a massive 9,000 hours, meaning a full year. A comfortable margin.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

watchmaking

territory

steeped in habits and conventions.

Unveiled in 2024, this partnership that could have been the culmination of a journey was in fact only the starting point – as H. Moser & Cie. certainly did not intend to confine itself to a blue watch with the Alpine logo. At the Spanish Formula 1 Grand Prix, the brand notched up a two-pronged success.

H. MOSER & CIE.

37

On the one hand, the Streamliner Alpine Driv-

the Manufacture drew on the expertise of

ers Edition. It is worth noting the inclusive

Sequent. Created just ten years ago in 2015, the

nature of the term ‘drivers’, for while H. Moser &

brand has notably developed the first Swiss-

Cie.’s customers may drive an Alpine, they do so

made self-winding smartwatch, effectively

on the open road, not on an F1 track. The time-

eliminating the eternal problem of the battery

piece features the impressive chronograph mod-

running flat after 48 hours.

ule developed by the Manufacture’s partner

When inactive, the watch displays a genuine

company Agenhor. It is probably the most inno-

small Funky Blue fumé dial bearing the H. Moser

vative chronograph caliber in the last 15 years,

& Cie logo at the top and a black screen below.

powering a central display of the hours, min-

Once activated, the Streamliner Alpine Mechan-

utes and flyback chronograph. For this 200-piece

ics Edition displays a GMT with country selector,

limited edition, this impressive 434-component movement is presented for the first time in a skeleton

version

with

openworked

hands,

bridges and oscillating weight.

The most mindboggling new introduction is embodied in a second watch – in this instance a connected one. Same question, same answer: H. Moser had no experience in this field, which was all the more reason to acquire it. This time,

Streamliner Alpine Mechanics Edition CASE: steel with blue composite, topped by a slightly

domed sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 120m SIZE: 42.6mm, 14.4mm thick MOVEMENT: Caliber DI0 developed with Sequent for H. Moser & Cie., connected movement, power reserve of 9,000 hours (12 months) for time display, or six one-hour GP races with continuously lit digital display FUNCTIONS: hours and minutes (analog) + digital functions (via connected module) DIAL: sapphire with digital display, small Funky Blue fumé subdial at 12 o’clock with H. Moser & Cie. logo STRAP: integrated, blue rubber, pin buckle

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

split-seconds chronograph, perpetual calendar and F1 mode, countdown to start times, as well as notifications of key moments for Formula 1 races during the season. The power reserve is a massive 9,000 hours – meaning a full year – for the time display, or six one-hour Grand Prix races with continuously lit digital display. A comfortable margin … Housed in a steel case, the timepiece is issued in a 500-piece limited edition.

TRIPLETS At the same time, the Manufacture presents

that because it is considered too summery, not

three new Pioneer models: a three hand-ver-

dressy enough? It’s a sociological mystery that

sion, a tourbillon and a cylindrical skeleton

H. Moser & Cie. has decided to solve. Mean-

tourbillon. Their common denominator lies in

while, orange is no more commonly used,

their colorful design, combining bright orange (and in some cases orange fumé) with exotic turquoise. It’s an unusual mix, yet it works surprisingly well. All three watches are available individually and are not limited editions.

The choice of colors is doubly surprising given that turquoise itself is rare in watchmaking. Is

Pioneer Spiced Aqua

CASE: steel, water-resistant to 120m SIZE: 40mm (Pioneer

Tourbillon) and 42.8mm (Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton and Center Seconds) MOVEMENT: HMC 811 self-winding Manufacture caliber (Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton), HMC 805 (Pioneer Tourbillon), HMC 201 (Pioneer Centre Seconds) FUNCTIONS: hours and minutes (+ seconds for the Pioneer Centre Seconds) DIAL: orange fumé, turquoise fumé STRAP: perforated blue or orange rubber, pin buckle

Without this tasteful exuberance, we would all be wearing the same watches as last century, with three hands on a black dial.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

except in diving watches because it makes them easy to see at great depths. The Schaffhausenbased Manufacture has chosen to bring it back to the surface and reclaim it. This welcome choice lends a dynamic touch without the “racing” attributes of red. What’s more, it is perfectly unisex.

These three vibrant, possibly even explosive, timepieces are a brilliant demonstration that color fantasy can awaken the tourbillon and that exuberance can be tasteful. They also showcase the fact that if no one dares to stray from the beaten path, we would all be wearing watches with black dials and three central hands. The same ones we wore a century ago.

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EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES AND JEWELRY

JAQUET DROZ

TEXT Olivier Müller

JAQUET DROZ

40

Total Art Jaquet Droz has followed an atypical trajec-

nitely the path being taken once more by Jaquet

tory. You’d have to rewrite a lot of marketing

Droz and Delamuraz has even considerably

manuals to understand how this La Chaux-de-

extended the field of expression, since it’s no

Fonds workshop approaches watchmaking –

longer involved in just mechanical art, but art

and even so the endeavor would probably be in

expressed in the broadest possible terms.

vain, as Alain Delamuraz has methodically bro-

In fact, this is a very common-sense idea, as

ken every existing code since taking the helm of

high-end collectors rarely collect watches alone.

the brand in 2022. So much so indeed that one

More often than not, they also take an interest in

might well wonder whether the venerable Mai-

paintings, engravings, sculptures, often wine –

son founded in 1738 still operates exclusively in

and sometimes collector’s cars. This vast range

the watchmaking sector.

reflects a personality, a singular and personal

EXPANDING THE FIELD OF ART Although the question may be surprising, it is entirely legitimate. While its visionary founder Pierre Jaquet-Droz made watches, didn’t he also create automata, snuffboxes and birdcages?

What is for sure is that he had a cross-disciplinary vision of his mechanical art. This is defi-

Tourbillon Skelet Sapphire - Bushido CASE: sapphire, water-resistant to 30m SIZE: 42mm in diameter, 13.76mm thick MOVEMENT: Jaquet Droz 2625SQ, self-winding skeleton

tourbillon movement, anthracite treatment, silicon balance-spring and pallet horns, titanium tourbillon cage, 18K red gold oscillating weight, 8-day power reserve FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes DIAL: 18K red and white gold, engraved, enameled, set with Murano glass beads and hand-painted STRAP: rubber with steel and gray ceramic folding clasp ONE-OF-A-KIND CREATION

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

artistic vision that is addressed by Jaquet Droz. In the process, the watch-sales paradigm is completely turned on its head, as it’s no longer the brand that comes to the collector with series-produced models, but instead the two parties that co-construct a one-of-a-kind, bespoke creation.

This is where Jaquet Droz brings tangible added value to the project. Thanks to the multiple

artistic crafts practiced in its workshop, the

tion of a calavera – the traditional figure of the

Maison is able to produce or reproduce almost

Día de los Muertos – embodied in this instance by a

any artistic vision its collectors may have.

woman with floral attributes, highlighted by

Whether they are devotees of painting, sculp-

an enameled and micro-painted composition

ture, engraving, jewelry, the art of watchmak-

adorned with spangles. In Japan, another one-

ing, pure mechanics or even music, Jaquet Droz

of-a-kind timepiece is adorned with a Samurai

is there for them.

warrior mask hovering between tradition and

The atelier regularly confirms this approach

modernity, on which an applique set with

by adapting to the sensibilities of each cus-

Murano glass beads – a watch industry first –

tomer, each culture. Pierre Jaquet-Droz was a

expresses its martial values.

Tourbillon Skelet Red Gold - Dragon Mask CASE: 18K red gold SIZE: 41mm in diameter, 13.36mm thick

MOVEMENT: mechanical self-winding JD 2625SQ, gray-treated, silicon escapement, red gold weight, 8-day power reserve FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes DIAL: 18K white and red gold, engraved, gemset and hand-painted STRAP: red rubber, red gold folding clasp ONE-OF-A-KIND CREATION

widely traveled salesman, crossing continents to introduce his marvels to the courts and empires of yesteryear. The Maison that now bears his name does the same and this artistic journey has recently been illustrated by three timepieces. In China, it takes the form of a dazzling dragon mask crafted in all its dimensions and distinguished by uncommon depth effects, standing out against a pearly fresco. In Mexico, the creation unveiled features an atypical depic-

Jaquet Droz has always combined craftsmanship, creativity and cultural wealth, joined by singular boldness expressed through its “Disruptive Legacy” signature.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

JAQUET DROZ

42

Tourbillon Skull Red Gold - Catrina

COLLECTOR, WORKSHOP AND ARTIST: A TRIO UNITED BY A LOVE OF ART These offerings presented to discerning collectors reflect their sensitivity to values that have long been those of Jaquet Droz: craftsmanship, creativity and cultural wealth. More recently, these have been joined by singular boldness

Petite Heure Minute Platine - Camels

CASE: 950 platinum SIZE: 41mm in diameter, 13.77mm

thick MOVEMENT: mechanical self-winding JD 2653, silicon escapement, double barrel, 18K white gold oscillating weight with Camels insert, 68h power reserve FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes DIAL: aventurine sky, engraved 18K white gold moon, engraved and handpainted 18K white gold desert motif, engraved and hand-painted Camel applique in 18K white gold STRAP: leather, steel folding clasp ONE-OF-A-KIND CREATION

Minute Platine - Camels. The name itself reflects its extreme personalization: never before has a 41mm Petite Heure Minute been produced in a platinum case. This one-of-a-kind model features an engraved and micro-painted gold composition. It depicts a nocturnal desert scene dotted with lavender against an aventurine Milky

conveyed through the brand signature: “Disruptive Legacy”. Some collectors, however, wish to go one step further and create from scratch their own watch in which every detail is bespoke, including the case. These timepieces usually fly under the media radar as they travel directly from La Chaux-de-Fonds to the wrists of their final customers.

There is, however, one that escaped for a brief appearance on the media scene: the Petite Heure

The ecosystem designed by Jaquet Droz includes its Ateliers d’Art, collectors and their world, as well as the artist of their choice whose work is reproduced in a timepiece.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

Way backdrop. In the foreground stands a faith-

universe for the Lord of the Rings trilogy (among

ful reproduction of two specific camels that their

many others), Howe is Canadian and has also

owner enters in major beauty contests. This

lived in Switzerland for over 20 years, based in

dreamily poetic one-off model describes the col-

Neuchâtel. For one of Jaquet Droz’s collectors, the

lector’s own universe, which he approved step by

artist applied his deft pencil strokes to crafting a

step via Jaquet Droz’s Studio 8, an immersive

one-of-a-kind, hand-signed painting that was

augmented reality device.

then perfectly reproduced in miniature – also by

What appears to be a culminating achieve-

hand – in the La Chaux-de-Fonds workshop.

ment is however only a prelude, as Jaquet Droz

Soberly named “Tourbillon Dragon White Gold -

adds a third pillar to the brand/collector pairing.

John Howe”, this likewise one-off timepiece

The co-construction process now unites the

depicts a dragon conceptualized by the designer.

Jaquet Droz workshop, the ultimate collector

Nestled in the lower half of the dial, this sacred

and an artist chosen by the latter to create a

animal is entirely coated with deep midnight-

unique work of art, replicated in a watch. The

blue Grand Feu enamel, while Jaquet Droz artisans

circle is complete. The art lover will own their

have hand-painted it with its infinite shades of

own personal painting or sculpture, which Jaquet Droz will handcraft into a miniature watch. A creative triptych expressed as: “Create your own. As unique as your Art.” Here again, few timepieces at this level ever enter the limelight, one notable exception being linked to a name already well known to the general public: John Howe. Creator of the graphic

The original painting by John Howe that inspired the Tourbillon Dragon White Gold - John Howe.

Tourbillon Dragon White Gold - John Howe

CASE: 18K white gold SIZE: 43mm in diameter, 13.1mm thick MOVEMENT: mechanical self-winding 25JD, 18K white gold oscillating weight with onyx insert, 7-day power reserve FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, seconds on tourbillon DIAL: 18-carat white gold, enameled and hand-painted STRAP: navy blue alligator leather, 18K white gold folding clasp ONE-OF-A-KIND CREATION

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

gray, contributing to a striking 3D impression.

The watch complements the painting and together they satisfy both aspects of one collector’s artistic passion. At the same time, it allows the latter to literally wear the painting specially designed for him by the artistic soul of the Lord of the Rings on his wrist.

EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES AND JEWELRY

PATEK PHILIPPE

TEXT David Chokron

PATEK PHILIPPE

44

Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524G

CASE:18K white gold, sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 30m SIZE: 42mm in diameter; 10.78mm thick MOVEMENT: mechanical, self-winding with 21K gold rotor, Caliber 26-330 S C FUS, 4 Hz, 35h to 45h power reserve; hours and minutes, small seconds, date, second time-zone hours, day/night indicator for each time zone DIAL: ivory white, lacquered; white gold applied Arabic numerals and sword-shaped hands with luminescent coating; openworked sword-shaped GMT hand STRAP: fabric-patterned green composite, white gold prong buckle

An affirming of taste The Patek Philippe 2025 vintage brings a broad-

PRACTICALITY PREVAILS

spectrum dose of updated codes, colors and

Some details of the new 5524G remain true to the

the latter is adjusted using the protruding push-

watchmaking savvy. Case in point with the Cala-

collection’s defining characteristics. Despite its

ers at 8 and 10 o’clock. Patek Philippe is not about

trava 5524G. How is this dial so translucent? Is it

sporty presentation, this is a Calatrava – and one

to forgo the practicality that’s been at the heart

enamel? Is it a fine stone or a cleverly tinted slab

made of precious metal. No titanium, no steel:

of the Travel Time system since its inception.

of sapphire? The answer is both far simpler and

this was always going to be a gold case. Another

much more interesting, as Patek Philippe

feature that’s integral to the collection is the use

reminds us what a great many layers of lacquer

of sword-shaped hands, one of which is skele-

can achieve by providing unique depth and bril-

tonized to display a secondary time zone. Reflect-

liance that contribute to the new face of the Cala-

ing another Pilot Travel Time signature feature,

trava Pilot Travel Time line. This ivory white shade is a departure from the dark colors hitherto applied to the dual-time Pilot models. We had already seen it in blue, black and sunburst browngradient variations. For the tenth anniversary of the model’s introduction, Patek Philippe has decided to shift it towards a lighter tone.

The ivory white dial is a departure from the dark colors hitherto applied to the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time.

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Oddly enough,Reference 5328G is a successor

logic dictates that any movement in the Patek

of a handful of pieces with very long power

Philippe roster must be available for more ver-

reserves, such as the legendary Ref. 5101P 10

satile use. That existing Gondolo 8 Days, Day &

Days Tourbillon. This addition to the Calatrava

Date indicator mechanism has thus found its

line takes its place among the likes of Reference

way into a Calatrava case and thereby acquired

5226, whose signature design includes a grainy-

a new moniker: Caliber 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J.

textured dial reminiscent of vintage camera

Calatrava Reference 5328G

CASE: 18K white gold with hobnail pattern, sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 30m SIZE: 41mm in diameter; 10.52mm thick MOVEMENT: mechanical manually wound Caliber 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J, 4 Hz, 8 full days power reserve with a 9th reserve day and a powerreserve indicator; hours and minutes, small seconds, day, date DIAL: blue with black-gradient rim, grainy texture; white gold applied Arabic numerals and baton-type hands with luminescent coating STRAP: navy blue calfskin with fabric pattern, additional strap in grained taupe calfskin; white gold fold-over clasp

cases, as well as an engraved Clous de Paris hob-

MORE THAN EIGHT

nail pattern adorning the caseband. Inside the

The first thing that should be mentioned about

white gold case and beneath the blue dial sur-

this movement is that despite its “8-day” label, it

face, the 5328G’s movement is new – though

is in fact endowed with enough energy to last

not entirely so. In 2013, Patek Philippe had

nine. Patek Philippe deems that the ninth and

energy, as the watch would then be running on

introduced its original version in the rectangu-

last day should be displayed in red on the 12

fumes. The second singular trait of the move-

lar format of the Gondolo Reference 5200G, yet

o’clock gauge and not be counted as full-fledged

ment is its display layout, with a concentric date and small seconds sharing space with a day aper-

While it may be called “8-day”, the Calatrava reference 5328G is endowed with enough energy to last nine.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

ture at 6 o’clock. This large concentration of information is counterbalanced by the powerreserve indicator at 12 o’clock containing the brand’s signature. In their mechanical and aesthetic expressions, long power reserves are resolutely a matter of balance.

COUNTERINTUITIVE PAIRING

There is great satisfaction in wearing a perfectly executed classic timepiece, one with just

One of the oddly great things the Calatrava Ref-

the right, sparse amount of frills and details.

erence 6196P achieves is finding a color to match

That may well be the definition of what a Cala-

its salmon pink dial. While this increasingly

trava represents. In any case, it is definitely

popular tone exudes a sophisticated, 1950s vibe

what is achieved by Reference 6196P, a close rel-

that is what Calatravas are fundamentally

ative of the Reference 6119 models launched in

about, experience proves it’s hard to pair.

2021 and representing a slightly more ornamental take on Patek Philippe’s line of elegant threehanders. Gone are the Clous de Paris hobnail bezel and railroad-style minutes track. The brand has taken a couple of steps in paring down what may just be the quintessential Patek Philippe.

Calatrava Reference 6196P

CASE: 950 platinum, sapphire crystal and caseback,

water-resistant to 30m SIZE: 38mm in diameter; 9.33mm thick MOVEMENT: mechanical manually-wound Caliber 30-255 PS, 4 Hz, 65h power reserve; hours and minutes, small seconds DIAL: rose-gilt opaline; anthracite white gold hour-markers and Dauphine hands STRAP: brown alligator leather; platinum prong buckle

Browns, blues, grays and golds keep falling short. However counter-intuitive, the nearblack hue of the hour-markers ends up doing the trick. There is a sophisticated harmony between the cold gleam of the platinum case (with its signature diamond hidden between the lugs at 6 o’clock), the pared-down warmth

One of the achievements of the Calatrava Reference 6196P is finding the right color to match its salmon pink dial.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

of the opaline gilt dial (which the brand is reluctant to call salmon as it may be too vernacular for a highbrow timepiece) as well as the faceted applied gold hour-markers, hands and recessed dots in the minutes track. Such pairings are exceptional and achieve instant balance.

PATEK PHILIPPE

47

Twenty~4 Perpetual Calendar 7340/1R

There are three phases in the life of the

CASE: 18K rose gold, sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 30m SIZE: 36mm in diameter; 9.95mm thick MOVEMENT: mechanical self-winding with 22K gold micro-rotor, Caliber 240 Q, 3 Hz, 38h to 48h power reserve; hours and minutes, perpetual calendar with day, date, month, leap year and moonphase DIAL: sunburst olive green or silvery, vertical and horizontal satin-finish (“shantung” finish); rose gold applied Arabic numerals and baton-type hands with luminescent coating BRACELET: rose gold, rose gold fold-over clasp

Twenty~4 collection. It was born a rectangular ladies’ timepiece with two vertical rows of diamonds, teamed with a bracelet and powered by quartz movements. Then in 2018, Patek Philippe introduced a round, mechanical sub-collection, with diamonds on the bezel and a wider 36mm diameter. The latter version, minus the diamonds, is the canvas chosen by the brand to introduce the first complication in the Twenty~4

BROAD SPECTRUM

line, thus opening a new, third chapter in its

Both on paper and on the wrist, this Twenty~4

history. Not just any complication, mind you. It

ref.7340 confirms what many have been suspect-

could have been a chronograph or an annual

ing since first laying eyes on it. It is just as suited

calendar. Instead, Patek Philippe opted for one

to men as it is to women. If any further argument

that is part of their grand complications: a per-

was needed, let’s call the silver-toned dial version

petual calendar based on their thin, micro-

– recognizable by its wild silk-inspired (aka Shan-

rotor-powered Caliber 240.

tung) pattern – the more ladylike option; while the olive green dial exudes a more masculine

The first complication in the Twenty~4 line opens a new chapter in its history.

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vibe. Given the overall growing trend towards smaller men’s watch sizes across the watch industry, as well as the enduring appeal of larger models for women, this reference will certainly prove to be a perfectly unisex timepiece.

EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES AND JEWELRY

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

TEXT Olivier Müller

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

48 Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Openface

CASE: 950/1000 platinum, water-resistant to 30m SIZE: 41mm in diameter, 11.07mm thick

MOVEMENT: self-winding in-house Caliber 2162 R31/270, 2.5 Hz, 72h power reserve FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon, retrograde date DIAL: openface in two parts: 18K gold openworked dial, hand-guilloché with a 270th anniversary motif inspired by the Maltese cross, movement plate adorned with a vertical pattern STRAP: dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather HALLMARK OF GENEVA-CERTIFIED NUMBERED 370-PIECE LIMITED EDITION

Vacheron Constantin’s

jubilee trio

latter their signature touch and most are con-

limited editions offering an exceptionally

A CENTURY OF OPENFACE DIALS, EIGHT DECADES OF RETROGRADE DISPLAYS

temporary (notably Pierre DeRoche and Reser-

excellent alliance between 270 years of watch-

The first known Vacheron Constantin watch

voir). Vacheron Constantin, on the other hand,

making heritage and perfectly mastered mod-

with an open dial dates back to 1918, a signifi-

has 85 years of history in this domain, with its

ern touches. These individually numbered

cant period at the end of World War I. While the

first retrograde wristwatch from 1940. Once

timepieces are intended for a select few discern-

previous era had been all about clocks and pocket

again in the midst of a world war, this was an

ing aficionados.

watches with enamel dials, subsequent years

unusual ‘side step’ at a time when all eyes were

The Geneva-based Manufacture unveils three

Creating a collection can be an easy task, which

would see the rise of sports watches. Vacheron

on models with tachymeter, telemeter scales

requires only a bit of imagination and a blank

Constantin demonstrated boldness with this

and pilot’s chronographs. Vacheron Constantin

page. On the other hand, pursuing a 270-year

isolated yet meaningful example to which the

continued to use this type of indication from

heritage is a weighty responsibility, as the past is

Manufacture returned in 2002 and has remained

1994 onwards with its Mercator, a masterstroke

watching you and the future will judge you. The

loyal to ever since.

as mechanical fine watchmaking was rising

present is but an interlude in eternity from which one must stride forth with unwavering pride.

This openworked dial is complemented by a retrograde display. Few brands have made the

from the ashes. This also enabled the Maison to assert its mastery of artistic crafts.

It would therefore be a mistake to view the limited-edition watches

“Traditionnelle

Openface”

celebrating Vacheron

Constantin’s

270th anniversary exclusively through the prism of novelty. Only their historical depth enables a grasp of their true meaning.

Pursuing a 270-year heritage is a weighty responsibility.

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VACHERON CONSTANTIN

49

Traditional Perpetual Retrograde Date Openface

CASE: 950/1000 platinum, water-resistant to 30m SIZE: 41mm in diameter, 10.94 mm thick MOVEMENT: self-winding in-house Caliber 2460 QPR31/270, 4 Hz, 40h power reserve FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, perpetual calendar with day of the week, date, month, leap-year indicator, precision moon phase, retrograde date hand DIAL: openface in two parts: 18K gold openworked dial, hand-guilloché with a 270th anniversary motif inspired by the Maltese cross, movement plate adorned with a vertical pattern STRAP: dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather HALLMARK OF GENEVA-CERTIFIED NUMBERED 370-PIECE LIMITED EDITION

TRADITION & MODERNITY Such are the historical foundations of the three new Traditionnelle Openface watches. The challenge lay in giving them a modern touch to embed them in the present. With this in mind, Vacheron Constantin opted for contemporary elegance. The Perpetual Calendar, Retrograde Date Tourbillon and Complete Calendar share the same 41mm-diameter platinum case, a 370piece limited edition, Hallmark of Geneva certification and an offset “Maltese Cross” aesthetic signature featuring lines extending across the rest of the dial. The Maltese Cross radiating

HISTORICAL REFERENCES

across the complications is a subtle yet modern

Each composition features historical reminders

reference to the Maison’s stature and heritage.

such as the Dauphine hands, a delightfully vin-

Another mark of the 21 century is the use of

tage sector-type dial with minutes track and the

translucent sapphire at the heart of the move-

use of a tourbillon as patented in 1801. More-

Traditional Complete Calendar Openface

ment. This is particularly true of the Perpetual

over, on the latest model, the Traditionnelle

SIZE: 41mm in diameter, 11.05mm thick

and Annual Calendars, where the addition of

Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface, Vacheron

sapphire to the openworked movement enables

Constantin has opted for a very low frequency

the observer to dive deeper into the heart of the

(2.5 Hz, or 18,000 vph), standard in the last cen-

caliber. In keeping with contemporary living,

tury. This discreet nod to the past, which also

both models are equipped with a selfwinding

gives the piece a three-day power reserve, is

movement.

sure to appeal to discerning collectors.

st

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

CASE: 950/1000 platinum, water-resistant to 30m

MOVEMENT: self-winding in-house Caliber 2460 QCL/270, 4 Hz, 40h power reserve FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, complete calendar with day, date, month and precision moon phase display DIAL: openface in two parts: 18K gold openworked dial, hand-guilloché with a 270th anniversary motif inspired by the Maltese cross, movement plate adorned with a vertical pattern STRAP: dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather HALLMARK OF GENEVA-CERTIFIED NUMBERED 370-PIECE LIMITED EDITION

EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES AND JEWELRY

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

TEXT Olivier Müller

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

© Van Cleef & Arpels

50

Botanical and

The mother-of-pearl marquetry dial of the Lady Arpels Heures Florales is graced with sculpted-gold, miniaturepainted and gem-set decorative touches.

mechanical poetry to the rare and precious Poetic Complications collection.

Its

daintily

innovative

display

enthralls the imagination and makes time stand still. This naturalistic anthem is also a masterpiece of watchmaking ingenuity. One of the minds behind it – Rainer Bernard, Head of Research and Development for Watchmaking at Van Cleef & Arpels – reveals some of its secrets.

Traditional watchmaking usually showcases timepieces’ inner workings, hence the creation of skeleton watches, openwork dials and other revealing approaches. Things are slightly different for the Van Cleef & Arpels’ Poetic Complications collection, through which the watchmakerjeweler cultivates the subtle art of storytelling, travel and escapism. A showcase in which lyrical and creative odysseys are crafted using animations in the etymological sense of the term:

Lady Arpels Heures Florales

CASE: 18K white/rose gold, water-resistant to 30m SIZE: 38mm in diameter, 14.64mm thick

MOVEMENT: mechanical selfwinding movement with a Poetic Complications mechanism developed and assembled by the Van Cleef & Arpels watchmaking workshops, 36h power reserve FUNCTIONS: hours displayed by the number of flowers open on the dial, minutes displayed on the side DIAL: white mother-ofpearl, sculpted white gold, miniature painting, mother-of-pearl marquetry; flowers in white gold, yellow gold, round yellow diamonds, round diamonds, miniature painting; sculpted rose gold branches; white gold crown set with a round-cut diamond – 424 stones, 5.06cts STRAP: interchangeable shiny alligator NUMBERED EDITION

© Aurélien Bergot – Van Cleef & Arpels

The Lady Arpels Heures Florales watch belongs

Portrait of Rainer Bernard

Almost 300 years ago, Carl von Linné devised a floral clock on which the time could be read off simply by observing the flowers open at various times of the day.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

All Poetic Complications mechanisms and dials are hand-assembled in the Maison’s Geneva workshops.

© Van Cleef & Arpels

51

that which is animated, which has a soul

blooms. This scientific and poetic prin-

(anima in Latin) – a reality vividly illus-

ciple appealed to Van Cleef & Arpels

trated in these creations.

and yet required much more than just botanical observation in terms of

The singularity of the Heures Florales

watchmaking development.

model lies in the hours display complication that is deliberately not instantly per-

This model comes in two versions: the

ceptible, as Rainer Bernard explains. “This is

Lady Arpels Heures Florales, in blue with

almost a secret watch. You have to spend a lit-

clouds on the dial, and the Lady Arpels Heures

tle time and effort on slowing down and paying

Florales Cerisier, in pink with butterflies. While

attention to it.”

it can be summed up in numbers – 533 components for the movement housed in a 38 mm

NATURALIST INSPIRATION

case, along with 226 components for the dial

The public has been enabled to benefit from this

alone – they do not tell the whole story. Its con-

generous vision of time, as the Lady Arpels Heu-

struction relies on a base movement providing

res Florales watch is in fact based on the floral

primary energy. The complication was created

clock devised by Carl von Linné almost 300 years

in-house specifically for the Heures Florales

ago. He noticed that certain flowers opened and

watch, instilled with the Maison’s signature

closed at specific times of the day, leading him

singularity: “We spend a lot of time on the

to conceptualize a floral clock on which the time could be read simply by observing the unfurled

Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier © Clément Rousset – Van Cleef & Arpels

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

design phase”, as Rainer Bernard points out.

Firing of the enameled butterfly motif visible on the caseback.

© Van Cleef & Arpels

© Van Cleef & Arpels

Assembling of the caseback on the Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier.

Lady Arpels Heures Florales

© Van Cleef & Arpels

© Clément Rousset – Van Cleef & Arpels

This is an essential feature of Van Cleef & Arpels’

Two examples illustrate this process. Firstly,

Second example: the flowers open at 3am will

approach. The atelier expresses emotion and

the passing hours depicted by open flowers

not be the same as those at 3pm. The distinct

poetry. The Creative Studio plays a major role in

adorning the dials (for example, 3 o’clock is dis-

12-hour cycles will therefore never be the same

R&D, a field generally regarded as the exclusive

played with three flowers unfurled) complete a

twice in a row. “We actually have three different

preserve of Technical Departments. This reflects

full opening and closing cycle every 60 minutes.

cycles” explains Rainer Bernard. “For example,

a distinctive feature of Van Cleef & Arpels, where

In other words, the transition from 3 o’clock to 4

we have a pair of flowers open at 2am, another

technique is placed at the service of the narrative.

o’clock is not represented by a new flower bloom-

at 2pm and a third, different pair at 2am the

“Dialog and the search for solutions are an ongo-

ing alongside the three already open, as instead

next day. This means we can have three consec-

ing process” Rainer Bernard explains. “We try out

all flowers close and four more open, thereby

utive days without the displays looking the

several things to check out and validate our cre-

renewing the bouquet every hour. An extraordi-

same.” It’s a complication within a complica-

ative ideas before putting them to the test of

narily complex random mechanism – in reality,

tion, so to speak, designed to preserve the ele-

watchmaking technology – even though in prac-

a mechanical program – has been developed to

ment of surprise and the unexpected.

tice, certain apparently insignificant ideas may

add magic and mystery to the floral ballet. And

A floral ballet of this kind requires a lot of

directly impact the movement development!”

as if that weren’t enough, Van Cleef & Arpels

energy and Van Cleef & Arpels has therefore

has devised two different durations: the flower

designed a highly optimized movement capable

blooms in one second but closes in three seconds.

of

handling

the

numerous

and

frequent

sequences of folding and unfolding petals.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

Each dial is made up of 226 hand-assembled components.

SECRET FORMULA Van Cleef & Arpels is definitely a past master of such techniques: from the Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux model to the Lady Féérie and Lady Arpels

Ballerine

Enchantée

watches,

the

Van Cleef & Arpels watchmaking workshops in Geneva have extensive experience with narrative complications. “The secret lies in the surface finishes, an ingenious movement and having the lightest possible components”, says Rainer Bernard. “While we are well aware that a new development within the Poetic Complications collection takes four to six years of work, the fact that we design, assemble and test the complications in-house enables us to be very efficient.

Coordination, communication and team spirit are our three watchwords, because all our crafts advance simultaneously and in parallel.”

Over and above this rigorous discipline within which everything is measured to the nearest micron, the dial displays entirely manual and artisanal expertise. Miniature painting and sculpture, engraving and enameling are all artistic crafts where the human hand works on a different scale. This is also what makes each handassembled, decorated and finished Lady Arpels Heures Florales timepiece truly one of a kind.

“The interface between the movement and the © Erik Madigan Heck – Van Cleef & Arpels

artistic crafts takes time. The invisible movement must interact with the dial, which dis-

This is almost a secret watch. You have to spend a little time and effort on slowing down and paying attention to it.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

plays the animations”, as Rainer Bernard emphasizes. “The result must be a homogeneous and coherent whole in which technology is placed at the service of the story.” Van Cleef & Arpels is one of the last heralds of this dreamy, narrativefocused approach.

EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES AND JEWELRY

A. LANGE & SÖHNE

TEXT David Chokron

A. LANGE & SÖHNE

54

At both ends of the spectrum Simplicity is not easy and neither is complexity.

which made its debut in the Richard Lange Min-

This is particularly true for A. Lange & Söhne,

ute Repeater. An evolution because it features

whose approach to creating new timepieces is as

improvements to several key movement compo-

demanding as ever – as demonstrated by its new

nents. An enrichment because it’s been provided

releases introduced at Watches and Wonders

with everything it needs to compute thorough

Geneva. One of them represents the Maison’s

perpetual calendar indications

first foray into the rare and prestigious combina-

Minute Repeater Perpetual

CASE: 950 platinum, sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 20m SIZE: 40.5mm in diameter; 12.1mm thick MOVEMENT: mechanical hand-wound Caliber L122.2, 3 Hz, 72h power reserve; hours and minutes, small seconds, minute repeater, perpetual calendar with 24-hour display, day, outsize date, month, leap year and moonphase DIAL: black enamel on gold base; white gold applied Roman numerals and hands STRAP: black alligator leather, platinum folding clasp LIMITED EDITION OF 50

tion of a minute repeater and a perpetual calen-

CHIMING REFINEMENTS

dar, both of which rank among the most coveted

There are many ways to craft a minute repeater

complications. The Minute Repeater Perpetual is

movement, and Caliber L122.2 incorporates every

powered by a new movement called L122.2. It’s

refinement. The most noticeable is the pause

be chimed, instead of a long silence before the

both an evolution and an enrichment of the L122.1

elimination system. When there is no quarter to

minute chiming starts, the movement skips directly to the latter. Safety-wise, the crown can-

The Minute Repeater Perpetual is housed in a stunning platinum case and even more striking black dial.

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not be pulled during chiming and this function cannot be activated while the crown is pulled.

Lastly, there is the hammer blocker system, which prevents the hammers from striking the gongs while they are still resonating from a previous impact, allowing for a cleaner sound.

A. LANGE & SÖHNE

55

PINNACLE EVOLUTIONS

smaller case naturally means that A. Lange &

This model is housed in a stunning platinum case

Söhne has created a new movement. This should

with an even more striking black dial. It is made

come as no surprise to anyone who knows the

of glossy, deep black enamel applied on a 18K gold

brand, as they are so accustomed to such a sys-

base. In addition, it is abundantly filled with

tematic approach that Caliber L152.1 is their

appliques, ranging from the Roman numerals

75th. This movement is smaller than that of pre-

near the minutes track to the ubiquitous Lange

vious 1815 models and also thinner at just

outsize date window. Connoisseurs will have

2.9mm, a substantial 1.7mm less than the pre-

noticed that this timepiece does not bear the

vious generation. This sizable difference logi-

name of any of the brand’s collections. Yet it’s not

cally results in the case shedding a no less

the first time a timepiece turns out to be special

impressive 2.4mm, down to a mere 6.4mm –

enough to stand on its own, as has already been

almost a brand record. The power reserve jumps

the case of the Tourbograph or the even scarcer

to 72 hours from the previous 55, as is now the

Grand Complication. If that lineage is any indication of the level of fame that the Minute Repeater Perpetual might reach, it is surely a good omen.

While one might justifiably be tempted to call it the “1815 34 mm, or “34 1815”, its proper name is simply “1815”. The previous 38.5mm iteration is not replaced by this diminutive version, yet a

1815

CASE: 18K white gold or rose gold, sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 30m DIMENSIONS: 34mm in diameter; 6.4mm thick MOVEMENT: mechanical, hand-wound, Caliber L152.1, 3 Hz, 72h power reserve; hours and minutes, small seconds DIAL: silver with blue coating; white or rose gold lancet-type hands STRAP: blue or brown alligator leather, white gold or rose gold pin buckle

case for nearly all Lange new releases.

SIZE NOTWITHSTANDING Whether in rose or white gold versions, the dial of the 1815 is attired in a deep blue shade of blue.

Now that technical details have been mentioned, it’s time to address the key differentiating factor of the new 1815 – which is actually not its size.

Smaller, thinner, more longlasting and as elegant as ever, this new 1815 features a 34mm diameter.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

The choice of a 34mm diameter is merely an extension of the 1815’s core nature: dressy, pared down and classic. It is in all respects exactly what the watch industry is in the process of rediscovering as a vital and reliable pillar, one that Lange has never ceased to promote: elegance.

EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES AND JEWELRY

ARMIN STROM

TEXT David Chokron

ARMIN STROM

56

Resonating with the world The Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Edi-

takes a while, so Armin Strom has come up with

tion Black once again demonstrates that Armin

a solution to speed up the process: a clutch con-

Strom is the single most important provider of

nected to both hairspring studs. Vibrations travel

resonance timepieces, as well as the only one

along that lovely wiry spring, making for speed-

coming up with a stream of new models. This is

ier and more efficient harmonization.

quite the feat for a small and deeply independent brand. The fact is that resonance as a physical phenomenon is hard to grasp and even harder to implement. When two systems oscillate in each other’s vicinity, they share their vibrations which leads them to harmonize. In the case of a mechanical watch, two sets of hairsprings and their respective balance wheels will end up beating as one. Achieving resonance nonetheless

Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Edition Black

CASE: steel, sapphire caseback, water-resistant to 50m SIZE: 39mm in diameter; 9.05mm thick MOVEMENT: mechanical hand-wound skeletonized

Caliber ARF22, 42h power reserve, double barrel and double regulating organ, double and independent set of hours, minutes and day/night indicator DIAL: frosted, black, with applied hour-markers; faceted and polished hands STRAP: brown alligator leather steel pin buckle LIMITED EDITION OF 50

SLIMMING DOWN Armin Strom has consistently and reliably mastered this art as expressed through several models. This is pretty impressive, especially since the brand’s movements are quite small and getting more so. The one inside the Dual Time GMT Resonance allows the case to reach a diminutive 9.05mm thickness, which is extraordinary given that it has two barrels, two sets of regulat-

When two systems oscillate in each other’s vicinity, resonance will lead them to harmonize.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

ing organs and two dials. This second iteration in the Dual Time GMT Resonance line is all-black and centered on a dual-time display where both sets of hands are fully independent. Those living in or traveling to time zones with 15, 30 or 45-minute offsets will appreciate the thought.

DUAL TIME GMT RESONANCE MANUFACTURE EDITION

EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES AND JEWELRY

HAUTLENCE

TEXT David Chokron

HAUTLENCE

58

A lecture in architecture Isn’t it strange how retrograde indications can

Hours to the right, minutes to the left, both

Everything in the center of the Helix Series 1

be incredibly futuristic? This apparent contradic-

running vertically along a slight curve, the time

has to give way to the tourbillon – and that

tion has never been as blatant as with Hautlence.

indications of the Helix Series 1 frame the entire

includes the two retrograde hands moving up

Right from the start, its core essence has been an

timepiece, like guidelines stemming from the

and down. They have been a signature of the

out-of-the box interpretation of this horological

brand’s identity. Within that frame, Hautlence

brand since day one, designed to make the most

classic, making the mechanics of the “leap” a

has painted a whole new picture. In the center

of the rectangular shape. The locomotive-style

visual and technical part of the brand identity.

sits a tourbillon that is anything but ordinary,

hand was later reinterpreted around the tour-

As Hautlence begins a new chapter in its exis-

with a cylindrical hairspring towering above it

billon into the shape of a serpent. Since they’re

tence, the dual retrograde indication returns to

and a blued bridge holding it in place, reinforc-

so long and serpentine, their surface is regu-

the forefront with the Helix Series 1, although as

ing the timepiece’s ubiquitous titanium gray

larly openworked to make them lighter and

the name implies the focus is firmly on the helix.

and blue colorway.

thus put less of a strain on the underlying move-

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

HAUTLENCE

Helix Series 1

CASE: satin-finished titanium, curved sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 100m (300ft/10ATM) SIZE: 37mm x 45mm; 11.80mm thick MOVEMENT: mechanical selfwinding with micro-rotor; Caliber D51, 3 Hz, 65h power reserve; central cylindrical tourbillon; retrograde hours and minutes DIAL: openworked; blue minutes and hours tracks; Globolight hour-markers; blued, curved and openworked hands STRAP: gray rubber strap with fabric inserts, titanium pin buckle LIMITED EDITION OF 28

ment. Caliber D51 is an entirely new thing,

The Helix Series 1’s combination of compo-

placed itself under the tutelage of brutalism, a

based on the manufacturing capabilities of

nents, shapes, colors, complications and indica-

movement famous for its sprawling concrete con-

Hautlence’s sister companies H. Moser & Cie.

tions converge under the exacting guidelines of

structions. For those not versed in art history, the

and Precision Engineering. The former provides

Hautlence’s enduring forte, namely design. The

term in no way alludes to violence, just to its use

a micro-rotor platform, which dramatically

case is yet another slightly curved polygon, with

of rough (brut in French) materials and shapes.

limits the overall thickness of the Helix Series 1.

a recessed caseband, virtually no lugs and an

What Hautlence has drawn from that architec-

The latter specializes in hairsprings and pro-

assertive presence. It’s both a legacy from the

tural movement is first and foremost the obvious

vides the signature vertically coiled architec-

brand’s beginnings and a testament to one of the

verticality of the Helix Series 1. As well as being

ture, aka the cylindrical hairspring.

great eras of architectural design. Hautlence has

resolutely erect, the flanks feature a sandblasted recessed line caught between two gadroons.

What little is left of the dial remains confined to

The blued, openworked hands have a highly curved shape, like a devil’s proverbial tail.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

the periphery. The unadulterated roughness of the mechanical movement reigns supreme, capturing the eye in its maze of functionalities turned graphic elements. Come to think of it, this could be a definition of architecture, an art Hautlence is connecting with like never before.

59

EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES AND JEWELRY

HERMÈS

TEXT Marine Ulrich

HERMÈS

60

The boldness of suspending time Hermès writes its very own poetry about the

diameter case, everything happens on the open-

passing of time. The hours ticking by acquire a

worked

special, almost paradoxical dimension, giving

Suspended module, which is activated by a 9

wearers of its watches an opportunity to take

o’clock pusher. One press and the hours and

their time and contemplate it – or even suspend

minutes hands flick up to rest on either side of

it. First released in 2011, the Time Suspended

the 12 o’clock marker, while the mechanism

complication – which literally enables time to

continues to run secretly. Pressing it again

be stopped on demand – perfectly illustrates this

resumes the display of real time, picking up

approach. The year 2025 marks the dawn of a

where it left off. The components of this almost

new era at Hermès for this playful and dream-

magical “made in Hermès” mechanism are vis-

like expression, extending an invitation to

ible through a circular dial opening. The ballet

break free from temporal conventions.

of this intriguing mechanical show is made

dial

revealing

the

famous

Time

The Maison is offering three new, highly con-

possible by the interplay of the components of

temporary versions of the Arceau Le temps sus-

the H1837 in-house movement, which can be

pendu, in which the design of the iconic time-

seen through the transparent caseback. In rose

piece designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978 with

or white gold, the cases of these three new ver-

its asymmetrical lugs reminiscent of riding stir-

sions are paired with three dial colors: brun

rups, has been drawn on. Framed by a 42mm-

désert, rouge sellier and blue.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

Hermès Arceau Le temps suspendu

CASE: white or rose gold case, anti-glare sapphire crystal and caseback, crown at 2 o’clock, water-resistant to 300m SIZE: 42mm in diameter MOVEMENT: mechanical self-winding Manufacture Hermès Caliber H1837 with “Time Suspended” module, 45h power reserve FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, date; 360° retrograde hours and minutes hands, retrograde date hand, Time Suspended function (starting and stopping the hands via a pusher) DIAL: sunburst rouge sellier, brun désert or sandblasted blue; rouge sellier, brun désert or blue translucent lacquered sandblasted sapphire crystal STRAP: rouge sellier alligator, matt étoupe alligator or bleu abysse alligator; black Barenia calfskin or navy blue Swift calfskin

This year, for the first time, Time Suspended

tion is activated in the Hermès Cut via a pusher

appears on the Hermès Cut timepiece unveiled

seamlessly integrated into the case middle at 8

last year. Halfway between a circle and a round

o’clock. The collection comprises three models:

shape, this unisex watch plays with a graphic

two featuring an opaline silver-toned dial with,

style dear to the French fashion house: geome-

for one of them, a bezel set with 60 diamonds,

try. From the side, the round shape from which

plus a limited rose gold edition with a deep red

the Hermès Cut derives its form appears to have

dial. The dial of these new versions features an

been carved and cut-angled on all four sides. Its

unprecedented display in the form of an offset

charisma lies in its curved dial, tapered sides,

small seconds indicator at 4 o’clock performing

as well as protruding part-polished, part-satin-

a 24-second counter-clockwise rotation. Hermès

brushed edges reflecting the light. This (par-

Cut Le temps suspendu, or how to combine the

tially) rounded model appears this year in a

vocabulary of shapes with a dreamy complica-

39mm version to accommodate the Maison’s

tions. Pure Hermès, quite simply...

iconic complication. The Time Suspended func-

This year, for the first time, Time Suspended appears on the Hermès Cut timepiece unveiled last year.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

Hermès Cut Le temps suspendu

CASE: satin-brushed rose gold with polished bevels, anti-glare sapphire crystal and caseback, rose gold bezel polished or set with 60 diamonds, crown between 1 and 2 o’clock, water-resistant to 100m SIZE: 39mm in diameter MOVEMENT: mechanical self-winding Manufacture Hermès Caliber H1912 with Time Suspended module, 45h power reserve FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, 360° retrograde hours and minutes hands, Time Suspended function (starting and stopping the hands via a pusher), 24-second operating indicator with counterclockwise DIAL: red-tinted or opaline silver-toned with sunburst exterior and finely sandblasted center BRACELET/STRAP: rose gold bracelet or rubber strap, interchangeable system with folding clasp

Opaline dial versions part of the collection; red-dial one-shot iteration.

EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES AND JEWELRY

HUBLOT

TEXT David Chokron

HUBLOT

62

The twenty-year explosion Hublot’s importance on today’s watchmaking

EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS

scene is no coincidence, but instead the result of

Blending materials, colors and textures within

a single timepiece, itself born from a single deci-

an individual timepiece, the Big Bang managed

sion in the mind of a singular man. In 2005,

to singlehandedly popularize the contemporary

Jean-Claude Biver acquired shares from an ailing

rubber strap, followed by a quick-release version

watch brand that had enjoyed its moment of

called One Click. Both these features are now

fame in the 1980s and early 1990s. It was called Hublot, a precursor of luxury watches with rubber straps that also stood out for its distinctive porthole (hublot in French) design. Jean-Claude Biver picked up the base formula and took it up a notch, creating a timepiece that went on to shape the watch landscape over the years to come. Breaking the mold of luxury watches’

Big Bang 20th Anniversary Red Magic

CASE: red ceramic, sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 100m (10 BAR) SIZE: 43mm diameter, 13.42mm thick MOVEMENT: Unico Manufacture mechanical self-winding Caliber HUB1280.20YEARS, 4 Hz, 72h power reserve, silicon escapement; hours and minutes, small seconds, flyback chronograph with column wheel, date DIAL: black with carbon pattern and red details, red openworked baton-type hands STRAP: red rubber on black titanium and ceramic folding clasp LIMITED EDITION OF 100

industry staples. It also established modular design as an appealing core principle and relied heavily on a single complication: the chronograph. Starting almost from scratch, the brand rose to join the top ten in the industry, establishing itself as a pillar of the watchmaking community. All this was achieved through that Big Bang milestone.

identity and offering a fresh perspective on what an assertive timepiece can be, As CEO Julien Tornare puts it: “Hublot has always been disruptive, ahead of the pack, unique and different.” It truly embodied the name Hublot gave that particular model 20 years ago: the Big Bang.

Five anniversary models in as many materials celebrate the 20th anniversary of a seminal explosion.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

HUBLOT

63

Big Bang 20th Anniversary Titanium Ceramic

CASE: titanium, black ceramic bezel, sapphire crystal,

water-resistant to 100m (10 BAR) SIZE: 43mm in diameter, 13.42mm thick MOVEMENT: Unico Manufacture mechanical self-winding Caliber HUB1280.20YEARS, 4 Hz, 72h power reserve, silicon escapement; hours and minutes, small seconds, flyback chronograph with column wheel, date DIAL: black with carbon pattern, openworked baton-type hands with luminescent tip STRAP: black rubber with titanium and ceramic folding clasp LIMITED EDITION OF 500

Big Bang Unico Summer 2025

CASE: orange ceramic, blue ceramic bezel, sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 100 m (10 BAR) SIZE: 43mm in diameter, 13.42mm thick MOVEMENT: Unico Manufacture mechanical self-winding Caliber HUB1280, 4 Hz, 72h hour power reserve, silicon escapement; hours and minutes, small seconds, flyback chronograph with column wheel, date DIAL: skeletonized, openworked baton-type hands with luminescent tip STRAP: blue rubber with titanium folding clasp LIMITED EDITION OF 100

BLASTING THROUGH THE RANKS

whose core production is flyback chronograph

ber strap is in direct line with the Big Bang’s sem-

That focus on a name and a matching concept

Caliber HUB1280, also known to the public as

inal concept. The art of fusion, as the brand’s

should not overshadow Hublot’s High Watch-

Unico. It is precisely the latter that is now being

motto used to say, strictly applies to this original

making abilities. “The strength of our marketing

used to power the Big Bang 20th Anniversary col-

combination of colors and materials, one so

and our innovative DNA in no way detracts from

lection. Five timepieces – all 43mm in diameter

unusual and fresh that it can truly be called

our watchmaking expertise”, says Julien Tor-

and featuring a special openworked 22K King

unique. The limited edition of 100 goes to prove,

nare. The seminal design of the Big Bang was the

Gold oscillating weight – are being released to

if need be, that the original Big Bang is still send-

blueprint for variations such as the Big Bang

celebrate the maturity of the Big Bang.

ing out shockwaves...and sea-water ripples

Integrated, the King Power, the Bigger Bang, the Spirit of Big Bang, or that closest to the 1990s

AFTERSHOCK

original, the Classic Fusion. Minute repeaters

Hublot has consistently leveraged the impor-

with flying tourbillon, jumping seconds chrono-

tance of renewal, energy and constant refreshing

graphs, skeleton movements with a three, four

of its collections. One of those iterations is the

or even ten-day power reserve: Hublot has grown

Big Bang Unico Summer 2025. In a way, its blend

into a full-fledged movement Manufacture,

of orange and baby blue ceramics with a blue rub-

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 2025 - 2026 SPECIAL ISSUE

EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES AND JEWELRY

THE MILLENNIUM WATCH BOOK

TEXT Brice Lechevalier

64 The collection that defies space-time

T

o celebrate GMT’s 24th anniversary, the fifth volume in The

Launched in 2020 with a first book on “Watch-

Millennium Watch Book series – which was published in the fall

making since 2000 – in Essence”, the collection

of 2024 – is dedicated to travel watches: everything you need

has been enriched each year with themed vol-

to know about GMT and worldtimers since the year 2000.

umes on tourbillons, diving watches, chrono-

Our editors share their passion and expertise with you.

graphs – and last year, travel watches. A time-

This set of large-format collector’s books, produced to impeccable

quality standards, is pursuing its mission to inspire devotees of fine

less and essential gift, for yourself or for any lover of luxury watches.

watchmaking, while informing them in a simple and effective way. Its magazine-style approach enables readers to admire and understand by varying approaches and themes in such as way as to both entertain and create emotion.

OUR DISTRIBUTION PARTNERS

Available to order here

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A VOICE THAT SPARKS CURIOSITY GEM-T magazine : GEM culTure GEM Trends GEM selecT GEM lifesTyle WHAT THEY SAID ABOUT OUR JEWELRY MAGAZINE : « A rich and inspiring editorial line » « Entertaining and informative »

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