Between The Wines december 2022
Hidden Treasures Many, many years ago—while poking around the Santa Cruz Mountains and the very small number of mostly world-class producers tucked away there—we spotted a small, modest sign that read: Kathryn Kennedy Winery—Direct Sales. Though we had never heard of these wines, with some time to kill we thought we’d pop in. We are forever grateful that we did! Though it was immediately clear that this was a bit of an ‘amateur’ winery—it resembled a fruit stand more than a winery—Kathryn Kennedy herself greeted us and poured us a taste of her one and only wine—her Santa Cruz Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon—and we were speechless (or as close as we can get!). We quickly elicited her story (a great one) and begged her to sell us some wine for Michigan. She was a bit hesitant--she made only around 400 cases a year which she sold mostly to locals—but we prevailed. That was in 1986, and we have proudly sold Kathryn’s wines ever since.
hidden Treasures Trends & observations Santa Cruz Mountain Cabernets are impressive as a group. At one point in the 19th century, the wines from here were much more highly regarded than those from Napa. By the 70’s (when Kathryn planted her vineyard), the region’s history and potential were know to only a few… including the four Stanford professors that started Ridge Vineyards in the 1960’s. The historic Martin Ray winery was also in the immediate area (Saratoga), which helped jumpstart the California wine industry post World War II. Kathryn, a Stanford grad herself (at 19!) decided she needed to devote part of her property to this noble endeavor as well. So she took on a couple of semesters at the relatively unknown U.C. Davis and the Journey began.
What's New
Quotation of the Month: “He who knows how to taste does not drink wine but savors secrets” – Salvador Dalì.
Between The Wines december 2022
Hidden Treasures Continued..
Under the stewardship of Kathryn’s son Marty (she passed in 2009 at 82) the winery now offers more than one wine, including their super-value ‘Lateral’ Cabernet, made from Napa fruit, but ‘tis the ‘Estate’ Cabernet that moves mountains. The wines are not cheap, but they are wonderful, and a real part of California’s modern history. And compared to a certain wine made be their neighbor (Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon), their flagship Cabernet is a steal.
Quotation of the Month: “He who knows how to taste does not drink wine but savors secrets” – Salvador Dalì. .
Trends & Observations
Vintage 2022 A very (very) brief overview of the 2022 harvest in Europe We typically visit Europe in the Spring—when all things are possible vinously-speaking. But by late October, a lot of the cards have fallen, giving us a clearer view of what to expect. Generally speaking, a very hot, very dry year. There will be moderately ripe wines here this year—over-ripeness is the thing to watch for. But as always, the top producers with mature vineyards will fare the best. And of course, almost silly to make generalizations about a place like Italy—with a range from Sicily to Piedmont, and grapes from Nero d’Avola to Nebbiolo. But we’re feeling silly! As always, buy producers, not vintages… FRANCE Burgundy: hot like everywhere, but cool nights helped balance the grapes and will presumably provide us with rich, balance wines… but buy carefully. Bordeaux: driest vintage in almost 75 years. Rich and concentrated, but likely forward, early drinking wines. Rhone Valley: hotter than even 2003. So, expect BIG, flamboyant, powerful wines. We’re betting some of the Chateauneuf-du-Pape wines will come in at 15% +. Champagne: Most Houses are ‘thrilled’ with the vintage. Harvest of very healthy fruit was 2 weeks early, but most importantly, the regulators allowed for the highest yields in years…which should help with the current Champagne shortage.
Between The Wines december 2022
GERMANY Warmth and the resulting ripeness have always been the Holy Grail in Germany. The heat this year means there will be lots of very ripe, healthy fruit harvested this year…but look for acidity if you want to buy to cellar. ITALY Sicily: some vocal concerns about the ‘summer drought’, though since Sicily is ALWAYS hot in the Summer, and they also experience near drought conditions each year…we think they’ll be fine. Sicilian wines are on the rise. Tuscany: Ditto the heat wave and zero rain until late summer. The regulators even allowed some irrigation in some zones. But most vintners concluded that the wines will be big, rich, and voluptuous … which again translates to not a vintage to cellar for 20 years. Piedmont: Global warming has been a hot topic here for the past 5 years. For 2022, they too experienced a too hot, too dry spring and summer. But the fruit is healthy, albeit there will be a short crop. And the best sites will fare the best and make lovely, early drinking wines. SPAIN Just like Italy, to summarize the results in a region that ranges from Rioja and Priorat to Rias Baixas and Somantano is fruitless. But it was a hot one. We were told that ‘the oldest sites know how to handle the heat, as well as small droughts. It’s the younger sites that need the most care and scrutiny when buying’. It was so hot in Spain this year, they actually started harvest in Sherry in JULY; earlier than anyone we spoke with can remember.
What's New
Tirriddis Sparkling wine Though Washington wine has only truly been considered a legit industry for about 40 or 50 years now, they very quickly earned their stripes and are now considered to be a world-class growing region. Because of their myriad soils/elevations/aspects, they produce a very broad spectrum of wines— from off dry Riesling to mountain-grown, age-worthy Cabernet Sauvignon and everything in between…except for much traditional method sparkling wine. Of course, we have the delicious, value-priced Domaine Ste Michelle. And there are a couple of folks trying (and succeeding) in making very small amounts of higher-end bubbles. But Tirriddis is, to our knowledge, the first winery to focus exclusively on highquality methode Champenoise sparkling wine. First the name: the brightest reading this might have caught on that the name is a play on the steps required to make traditional method sparking wine: Tirage, Riddle, Disgorge. Since this is what they do —and all they do—at the winery, the name applies. The winery is the project of three young, recent grads of Washington State University’s Viticulture and Enology program: Andrew Gerow, Gabrielle Crowell, and Matthew Doutney. Bonus: Andrew hails from Grand Rapids, MI (which is why we are on the list of their focus markets…gotta sell some wine in the hometown!)
Between The Wines december 2022
Since they are young and fearless---and spent lots of time (and money we presume)—on ‘research’, they will be doing fun things like making some cuvees from barrel-fermented (100% new) Chardonnay, single vineyard wines, and even a demi-sec. All of the wines (including the demi-sec) have bright, pronounced acidity…the very thing ‘bubble heads’ love the most about sparkling wine. These will not be at the Domaine Ste Michelle price point by any means, but they will be values in their class (about $35 retail). Give these guys a try!