GLOBAL JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL AFFAIRS PUBLICATION
VOL 5 ISSUE 1 SPRING 2020
Photo by Eric Lepeak
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EDITORS
Claudia Bautista
Amelia Langan
Alyssa Fread
Gillian Schlenner
Mirsa Freed
Mihiro Shimano
Lucy Gavin
Kristin Terry
Scout Gullick
Sahiti Tholeti
Ananya Iyengar
Kavana Venkatesh
Sally Jin
Blen Wondimu
Simone Lamont
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Samantha Barry
Kirthi Padmanabhan
Carla Belloch Arango
Alyssa Pascoe
Micayla Chow
Brenna Ransden
Levi Kaplan
Courtney Seeley
Eric Lepeak
Johanna Stackmann
Abigail Mengistu
Sydney Wise
Liam Monahan
DESIGNER
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Lauren Aquino
GLOBAL JOURNAL about
INSIGHT TO OUR VISION
Global Journal is a Northeastern University International Affairs student-run publication covering international news, events on campus, study abroad as well as domestic and international co-ops. Founded in 2014 by Madlen Gubernick, Elizabeth Zona and Yasmeen Alhaj, the student group aims to bring the international community together through experiential narratives. Because being a Northeastern student inevitably implies international interest and awareness, Global Journal encourages students of all disciplines to participate in the student group. Global Journal comprises not only international affairs students, but journalism, political science, business, health education and art students as well. We believe that as Northeastern students, we are all global citizens with vast international experience; Global Journal gives students the platform to share those experiences with the rest of the community. We hope to inspire students of all disciplines to partake in building international bridges to help promote our global experiences.
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L E T T E R from the E D I T O R Spring 2020 was unlike any other for most of us at Northeastern. COVID-19 brought international travel, study abroad and global co-ops to a grinding halt. While most stories in the Global Journal come from expanding one’s comfort zone and entering a new environment, many of us retreated into our homes, into lockdowns and quarantines, to stop the spread of the virus. We put adventures on hold until it is safe for us to explore again. I hope this edition reminds you of the rich, vibrant world that awaits beyond our doorsteps. These stories are insightful and thought-provoking, offering glimpses into the daily lives and experiences of people and communities across the world. They highlight how different perspectives can change our attitudes, the value of perseverance and the ties that bind us. These lessons are even more valuable in the context of COVID-19. We cannot solely focus on ourselves because we are all connected through our actions. Interdependence allows us to work together and triumph over adversity. It is only in this way that we will emerge resilient and ready to explore. This edition required a team that went above and beyond as we moved online and scattered across the globe. Thank you all for your dedication to this edition, for coordinating across various time zones and continuing to communicate with us. To the E-Board, thank you for your camaraderie and partnership. Editors and designers, thank you for your help making these stories read and look their best. Jon Andrew, thank you for your constant support and guidance. Writers, thank you for sharing your voices and your learnings with us. You all are invaluable to the Journal’s success and I know you will continue to propel it into the future. The Global Journal has introduced me to incredible people and inspirational stories, and I hope it will do the same for you. While grand explorations may be paused, I encourage you to find the same joy and excitement closer to home. Myself, I’m excited to start a quarantine garden while planning travel itineraries for the future. Until the next adventure,
Lindsay Lowery
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EDITOR IN CHIEF OF GLOBAL JOURNAL
Photo by Levi Kaplan
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MEET the T E A M
CAITRIONA KEANE
L I N D S AY L O W E RY
President
Editor-In-Chief
Biochemistry & International Affairs Majors, History Minor
Political Science & International Affairs Major, Security Studies Concentration
from Suffern, New York
from Minneapolis, Minnesota
GABRIELLA
MIKAELA COLE
B E AT H A M - G A R C I A
VP of Outreach
VP of Public Relations International Affairs Major, French & Political Science Minors from Madrid, Spain
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International Affairs Major, International Security & Political Science Minors from Huntington Beach, California
LAUREN AQUINO
S I T I A I S YA H
Creative Director
Engagement Chair
Graphic and Information Design Major, Computer Science Minor
Journalism & Media/Screen Studies Major International Affairs & History Minors
from Las Vegas, Nevada
from Jakarta, Indonesia
TIFFANY LAM
MARCUS CHEN
Treasurer
Web Editor
Economics & International Affairs Major
Marketing Major, Experience Design Minor
from Manila, Philippines
from Taichung, Taiwan
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p. 36
p. 43
p. 12
8p. 57
T A B L E of CONTENTS 10 AMERICAS Peru Through My Eyes People of Havana
22 AFRICA Common Threads The Resilience of a Nation
28 MIDDLE EAST The Glistening Pearls of Qatar Life After Amman
34 EUROPE Ohrid Alone A Day on the Camino de Santiago Magnifique Marseille Discovering Southwest England
48 ASIA & OCEANIA Reflections on Our Inseparability Cambodia: A Minefield of Developmental Challenges Seeing It Through
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Photo by Johanna Stackmann
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Another, more colorful impression of Mollepata’s Humantay Lake or Lago de Humantay
PERU THROUGH MY EYES p h o t o s b y J O H A N N A S T A C K M A N N , Personal Story
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A backpacker rests on the greenery of Peru’s infamous Salkantay Peak.
Alongside several tourists, locals attempt to maneuver through the foggy siete culebras, or “Seven Snakes,” to reach Mollepata. 14
Fog clears over Machu Picchu, promising a breathtaking view to its thousands of daily visitors.
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Faces of the Mountains. Two Mollepata locals sell a diverse range of “choclo� (corn) and hand-crafted dolls to tourists at a famous viewpoint overlooking the district.
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Locals are accompanied by friendly companions on their extensive journeys from one district to another.
Mules carrying the weight of a dozen hikers, taking on the Salkantay Trek and the “Seven Snakes� challenge.
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PEOPLE OF HAVANA p h o t o s b y S A M A N T H A B A R R Y , Dialogue
When I traveled to Cuba in May 2019, the thing that struck me most about the country was the people. My camera was constantly drawn to whatever people were doing and I was always interested in the ways they were interacting with their environment. I spent the majority of my time getting lost in the streets of Havana and seeing what I could find to photograph. Despite the language barrier, I enjoyed capturing people in their most natural state. I spent a long time sitting with the couple fishing through a hole in the dock as they walked me through their process.
The woman against the teal wall hadn’t had her photo taken in years and I’ll never forget the way her eyes lit up when she saw herself on my tiny screen. I anxiously waited until the two boys finished their basketball game to show them the photos and ask if they could pose for a portrait, which they happily did. From the old man and his dog to the young boy and his guitar, the residents of Havana were always full of life. These photos are designed to give you a glimpse into the lives of these who live in Havana and let you feel closer to the community that exists there.
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Photo by Sydney Wise 22
AFRICA 23
COMMON THREADS b y S Y D N E Y W I S E , Co-op
As I write this, I’m sitting at Vintage Vibe, a cafe overlooking the Nile River. It’s part of The Platform, a stretch of Egyptian, Lebanese and “international” (i.e., Italian or American) restaurants situated on the Maadi neighborhood corniche, where expats and trendy Egyptians enjoy a meal while admiring one of Egypt’s crown jewels. After two months of living in Egypt, the river never fails to stun me. The sun has almost completed its descent behind the grove of palm trees on the other side of the Nile, and Vintage Vibe has turned on the fairy lights that adorn the trees and encircle the patio. The water, clung to by the last rays of Saturday’s sun, reminds me of my favorite skirt. I look at the miniature light refractions and see myself at LIT Boutique on Boston’s Newbury Street, sipping my iced coffee and lingering by a dressing room. As my fingers grew wet with condensation, my good friend Sasha — whose employee discount I planned to use — hustled over to me with armfuls of clothes that threatened to spill her own iced drink. I remember closing the dressing room curtain and zipping up the teal satin, the skirt’s hem falling asymmetrically below my knees. I poked my leg out the slit on the right side and assessed myself in the mirror. My mind then takes me to Lake Chalet, the restaurant I went to last summer while visiting my friend, Sade, in Oakland. That was where my skirt first made its debut. We begged the waitstaff to let us sit on the pier that was supposed to be closed after six, and when they assented, I ordered salmon and a Lemon Drop. Even more
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vivid is the memory of the last time I wore it, on a night out in Madrid exactly one week ago, where I visited with friends for spring break. That skirt now hangs in my closet in Cairo. This piece of fabric has followed me around the world; now, I see it reflected in the water in front of me. As the sun fades, women take pictures with each other on the boardwalk that separates the line of cafes from the river. Some men even hand off their phones to their friends so that they can pose while the light is still amiable. The view has already been featured on my own social media. I could be at Stephanie’s on Newbury right now, the atmosphere is so familiar (the exception, of course, being the longest river in the world in the background). It’s amazing the things that remind you of home. In Cairo, there are other things as well: the Baskin Robbins on Street 9 by my apartment; my favorite yoga studio, Osana Wellness; and watching “The Bachelor” on Tuesday nights with my American friends (sadly, being seven hours ahead means that we have to avoid a lot of spoilers). The four cities that I’ve mentioned couldn’t be more different. Madrid is an incredibly young, hip art town with more gin and tonic bars than I’ve ever seen. Cairo is a sprawling maze of humanity and history with an ethos wholly different from the one I grew up with. Boston is an academic fulcrum with its own historical symbolism. The University of California, Berkeley campus that I stayed on in Oakland presented the city as an ultra-chill counterweight to my high-strung East Coast existence.
Photo by Sydney Wise
Through all the languages, religions and
realization makes me feel resilient.
time zones I’ve traveled through, the common
This realization empowers me to continue
denominator of my teal skirt (not to go all
to push my boundaries. In everything that
“Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants” on you)
seems foreign, I can find some reflection of
reminds me of the one constant throughout my
myself — whether I see a satin skirt in the
trips: me. When I feel lost — when my Arabic
ripples of the Nile or my friends from home in
isn’t getting across in the way I want it to, my
the faces of the Egyptian twenty-somethings
K-8 Spanish instruction completely fails me or
laughing at The Platform. These little gems of
my international cell plan refuses to cooperate
comfort make me more confident in striking up
— it allows me to swap that feeling for one
a conversation or trying something new; they
of pride. The point isn’t that I encountered
bridge some intangible gap, bring a global
challenges in traveling, but that I anticipated
humanity to the surface and make me feel like
them and chose to persevere anyway. That
I can belong anywhere.
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THE RESILIENCE OF A NATION b y A B I G A I L M E N G I S T U , Co-op
I was excited to participate in a global co-op as it would offer more independence to navigate a new city than a traditional study abroad. Rwanda is fittingly known as “the land of a thousand hills” with breathtaking views nearly anywhere you go. The capital, Kigali, is a city with stunningly clean streets, a vibrant art scene and one of the most progressive technology markets in Africa. My first night there, I gazed out at the boundless hills and eagerly anticipated what was to come. I have always had an interest in African history and politics, so the co-op at the National
documents sent in from across the country to create an archive for continued research.
Commission for the Fight Against Genocide
The gravity of the 1994 genocide against
(CNLG) in Rwanda was one of my top choices.
the Tutsi, as well as its impact on Rwandan
As an international affairs major, I understood
society today, did not escape me. Every year,
that though researching genocide is no simple
April 7th marks the beginning of the 100-day
task, it would be an invaluable experience. I was
commemoration titled Kwibuka, “to remember,”
able to observe firsthand how Rwanda serves
organized by the CNLG. It is a time to learn
as one of the strongest examples of successful
and reflect, a reminder of the reconciliation
post-conflict peacebuilding. It is considered by
efforts that have taken place since 1994. While
many as a model for combatting ethnic-based
Rwandans have come a long way, they don’t
conflicts in other African nations and beyond. To
forget the significance of their past. There has
that end, the CNLG has taken steps to preserve
been major emphasis on community-building
documentation from the Gacaca courts, a
through Umuganda, a national holiday on the
traditional judicial system which tried genocide
last Saturday of each month where businesses
perpetrators
gatherings
and stores close until noon so that all citizens
across the country. This has been considered a
can participate in community service in their
successful method of transitional justice post-
neighborhood. I thought this amazing initiative
genocide as it focused on open dialogue and
shows how Rwandans are consistently working
consensus-based
towards the advancement of their society.
through
communal
decision-making.
In
turn,
this helped to reduce hostilities and reconcile
When away from the office, I spent most of
communal ties. Since the closure of the courts,
my time hopping on a motorbike taxi to explore
the CNLG has begun to digitize Gacaca court
some of Kigali’s cafes and galleries, where I
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Photo by Abigail Mengistu
met some incredibly welcoming and dynamic people. I also had several opportunities to travel out of the city with friends. On one such trip, we took a bus east to Gisenyi, on Lake Kivu, where we ate a local favorite, brochettes (grilled fish skewers), and looked across the water at Goma, a town in the neighboring Democratic Republic of the Congo. At Nyungwe National Park in southeast Rwanda, one of the oldest parks in Africa, we camped, scaled a canopy walk overlooking lush, green forests, visited sprawling tea plantations and hiked along a waterfall. While socializing around a campfire, I was asked by someone who had recently moved to Rwanda what I was doing for work. I explained that I was researching Rwanda’s peace and reconciliation efforts postgenocide. They said that they didn’t intend to visit the memorials because they didn’t want the visit to taint their perception of the country. This thought perplexed me for the rest of my co-op. While the 1994 genocide against the Tutsi does not wholly encompass Rwanda’s history, does
that mean that we should intentionally overlook this aspect of its past? As an Ethiopian, one of my greatest hopes has been to change the negative narratives often bestowed on the African continent. We often fall victim to preconceived ideas when entering a new country and, for many, Rwanda is often linked with memories of the genocide. To move past these ideas and truly experience the country, we must choose to engage in conversations about experiences, values and beliefs with empathy and respect. I once asked a Rwandan friend how their society has managed to progress the way they have despite their history. They said that while it is imperative to remember the past, they owed it to the victims to remain hopeful and keep working towards a better future. As amazing as my experience was, it is difficult to appreciate where Rwanda is today without understanding how far it has come. When I think back to my time in Rwanda, I think of beauty, the rich sense of culture and tradition and the incredible resilience of a nation.
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MIDDLE EAST
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Photo by Sydney Wise
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Photo by Alyssa Pascoe
THE GLISTENING PEARLS OF QATAR b y A L Y S S A P A S C O E , Fellowship
Kaleidoscopic city lights dotted the skyline
my understanding through research and debate
as we drove into the city from the airport, the
at conferences. It was due to my dedication
warm winds welcoming us inward. Although my
that I was nominated to attend the Fellowship
eyes were heavy with exhaustion, I was eager for
experience, giving me the opportunity to make
every drop of beauty I could capture from my bus
my first visit to the Middle East.
window. I had just arrived in Doha, Qatar, excited for the wonders that were ahead of me.
During our week-long stay, we had meetings with state officials and excursions to learn about
I spent a week in Doha at the end of February
Qatari culture. Every experience was engaging
as part of the Qatar Exchange Fellowship,
in a different manner, as each allowed us to
organized by the National Council on U.S-Arab
examine a new area of Qatari politics and society.
Relations (NCUSAR), in conjunction with the
The trip itself took place during a pivotal point
Qatari Ministry of Foreign Affairs. I first connected
of international diplomacy – after 18 months of
with NCUSAR my freshman year at Northeastern,
negotiations, the United States and the Taliban
when I joined the International Relations Council
finally signed a peace deal in Doha, in a hotel just
and participated in my first Model Arab League
a mile away. The recency of this event meant that
conference. I entered the activity with limited
our meetings were especially engaging, and we
knowledge of Arab politics, but soon expanded
received insight on exactly how states work to
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achieve peace through deliberations. Amid our meetings, there were also visits to Qatari museums, schools and other institutions of remarkable achievement. On our first full day in Doha, we visited the National Museum of Qatar – spectacular both in its extensive historical connections and its dazzling architecture – a geometric masterpiece inspired by desert rose formations. It was here that I learned about the history of Qatar within the Arabian Gulf and the vibrant culture and heritage of the Qatari people. I had the opportunity to visit a magnificent institution highlighting the success of Qatar today, its beauty glistening with the same luster as the pearls that built the Qatari economy many decades ago. At another point in our trip, we took an excursion over to Education City, only about fifteen minutes outside of Doha. This portion of the country is home to campuses of eight foreign universities, Hamad Bin Khalifa University, several K-12 academies, research centers, and, my personal favorite, the Qatar National Library
desert; before traveling further, we took a brief detour to visit some local fauna. There were 10 camels waiting for us for a short ride, and a majestic falcon reflective of Qatari heritage. We then said goodbye to our animal friends and drove off the main roads into the rolling dunes. Our driver zigzagged across the sand, darting around the dunes as we drank in the majestic landscape around us. My heart raced as we skidded about, jolting us around within a euphoric rush of joy and enchantment. We progressed further and further through the sands, until finally arriving at a shallow beach, the warm sun slowly setting around us. The Islamic call to prayer rang out in the distance as I waded into the waters, absorbing the landscape around me. On the other side of the water, a neighboring land emerged: Saudi Arabia.
This too was a glorious insight of the country, as it illustrated the importance the Qatari people place on education.
(QNL). As a child, my parents had to drag me out of bookstores and libraries; as I would be too enthralled by the wealth of knowledge surrounding me, and would try to sneak away to spend the whole day reading. At the QNL, I was enveloped by the hundreds upon thousands of books – as well as the historical maps and photographs – all daring me to escape from the group for vigorous study. This too was a glorious insight of the country, as it illustrated the importance the Qatari people place on education. On our final day in Qatar, the group took an excursion out of the city for an enthralling adventure across the peninsula. Three drivers escorted our group south towards the expansive
I walked out of the cool waters back into the sands. At this point, the sun had fully set, and my time in Qatar would sadly be coming to an end. During my first trip to the Middle East, I had the opportunity to expand my understanding of Qatari culture and politics, and I will be forever grateful for the kindness given by the people who assisted me during this experience. As I flew out of the country hours later, I spotted The Pearl-Qatar from my window, an artificial island constructed right outside Doha. And in that moment, I thought back to the pearls of diplomacy, culture and beauty that I had witnessed during my short visit, a portion of the radiant wonders flourishing within the state of Qatar.
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LIFE AFTER AMMAN by ZOE LOZANO-STRICKLAND, Dialogue
Growing up in Oakland, California, I never had to imagine a lifestyle different from mine and my community’s. I was raised by two working parents who emphasized independence, initiative and a diehard work ethic. My extended family was scattered along the West Coast with the majority residing overseas, making my conception of the family unit indelibly nuclear. Going to private high school and beginning to apply to university, ideals of competition and personal achievement were instilled in me from nearly every corner of life. My grades, my accomplishments and my
every winter. Besides these glimpses, I had been born and bred into a capitalist American way of life. Now, for the first time, I had the ability to learn about and immerse myself in another set of norms and values that would allow me the chance to evaluate my own culture and begin questioning the customs I had arbitrarily subscribed to.
There is strength and beauty that comes from the love and consideration of something larger than yourself.
extracurriculars added up to create my selfworth and acceptability when it came down
The first, and most glaring, difference I
to which schools chose me to be part of their
encountered was their focus on the community
2016 freshman class. Under the guise of healthy
over the self. I had conceptualized the family
competition, these qualities were celebrated by
unit as a support system to help me succeed in
parents, friends, teachers and mentors alike to
my personal endeavors. Like most of American
make me stand out when compared to my peers.
society, I prioritized my individual goals and
I went into my first Dialogue of Civilizations
desires over those of others and my community.
to Amman, Jordan with these values and societal
However, when sitting in a community circle with
concepts fully intact. Not very self-aware, I believed
a community sheikh just outside the city limits, I
the world shared my understanding of what
heard a completely different perspective. They
mattered: personal success. Over the next five
highlighted unity, community and the supreme
weeks, I immersed myself in language acquisition
importance of the larger family unit. At first, I was
courses, met with local sheikhs and broke bread
taken aback and almost angered by the idea that
with relocated Syrian refugees. This gave me
the needs of my family should take precedence
insight into a culture and way of life completely
over my own. But listening to the crux of this
foreign from my own. My previous exposure to
community leader’s message, I started grasping
other cultures consisted of my grandmother’s
the bigger picture. There is strength and beauty
Mexican cooking and the Chinese Lunar New
that comes from the love and consideration
Year celebrations that paraded down my street
of something larger than yourself. Instead of
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Photo by Sydney Wise
hearing “your goals don’t matter,” I heard “we
a career. They are instrumental in helping me
are all stronger, and we all benefit, when we work
succeed and celebrate my accomplishments. I
together as one.” This message had no emphasis
have since implemented a more balanced value
on winning, competition or cut-throat ambition.
system into my life where grades and a polished
Instead, their value system placed the prosperity
resume are no longer my only metrics of success;
of the community at the forefront of individual
I also recognize the value of the bonds and
priorities and actions. As I came out of the
relationships I have with the people around me
meeting, “it takes a village” ran on repeat across
and those who have always been by my side. I
my mind.
never could have gotten to where I am today
My trip to Amman and subsequent travels to
without the help and love of my community. It is
the Middle East have taught me to question and
critical that we remember we are where we are
analyze the values of the cultural system that I
today not solely because of our own personal
grew up in. My family and community play a vital
merits, but because of the efforts of the countless
role in my identity beyond awards, honors and
people who came before us.
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Photo by Brenna Ransden
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EUROPE
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OHRID ALONE p h o t o s b y B R E N N A R A N S D E N , Personal Story
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The Church of Sveti Jovan at Kaneo is a Macedonian Orthodox church, likely constructed in the 13th century. Nestled atop a cliff overlooking Kaneo Beach, the church is only accessible by a winding staircase carved into the cliff.
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I took my first solo trip by necessity. Desperate to skip town but with nobody to go with, I took
sites named by UNESCO as both a Cultural and Natural World Heritage Site.
the plunge and hopped on a plane alone. Never looking back, in the year and a half since that
I visited in April, before the flock of summer
first solo trip, the majority of my traveling has
tourists arrived, but while it was still warm and
been alone. In fact, I have come to prefer it over
dry enough to spend the days exploring. Each
travelling with friends. The freedom to wander
morning, I set out from my hostel in the heart of
without a plan and to spend time alone with my
the Old Town and wandered into the surrounding
thoughts – or force myself to meet new people – is
hills with just my camera and a water bottle. I
unparalleled by any other experience. Embodying
spent all day exploring in solitude, without any
the spirit of solitude yet friendliness is the small
interruptions from strangers. Strangely though, I
lake town of Ohrid in North Macedonia, where I
never felt alone in Ohrid. The rich history of the
ventured alone for spring break this year.
town and its surroundings and the remarkable natural landscape along the lake were better
Centered around Lake Ohrid, which straddles
company than any travel companion could be.
the border between North Macedonia and
The occasional chirp of a bird and the constant
Albania, the city of Ohrid is known for its religious
shutter of my camera were the only sounds for
and historical sites and is often referred to as
hours on end. It was truly a refreshing experience
the Jerusalem of the Balkans. It is one of only 28
to be alone yet feel at home.
According to the oldest available historical data, Samuel’s Fortress was built in 209 B.C. Throughout its history under Roman, Byzantine, Slavic and Ottoman rule, the fortress was destroyed, rebuilt and upgraded numerous times. It overlooks the Old City and Lake Ohrid to the southeast and the suburb of Koshishta to the north.
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Enclosed by the remains of ancient fortifications, the Old City is literally cut off from the rest of Ohrid. The cobbled streets of the Old City are narrow and often only one car can pass at a time, if at all.
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The Old City Park runs from the cliff of the Church of Sveti Jovan to the top of the Plaosnik hill and Samuel’s Fortress and is brimming with pine trees. However, there are a few lightly trodden footpaths through the pine trees that open up.
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Vines with small purple buds envelop the columns outside a new addition to the Holy Mary Perybleptos Church in the old city. The church was originally built by Progon Zgur, son-in-law of the Byzantine Emperor Andronicus II Palaiologus some time before 1295.
According to the oldest available historical data, Samuel’s Fortress was built in 209 BC. Throughout its history under Roman, Byzantine, Slavic and Ottoman rule, the fortress was destroyed, rebuilt and upgraded numerous times. It overlooks the Old City and Lake Ohrid to the southeast and the suburb of Koshishta to the north.
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A DAY ON THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO b y C H R I S T O P H E R M A H I R , Dialogue
The day began with hail dropping to the floor with a specific ferocity. In fact, this was the first time that it had hailed in Spain in almost a decade. I was not very optimistic to walk 20 miles, especially with the abysmal weather. Nevertheless, we took the bus out to the trail and started our journey. For some background, the Camino de Santiago is typically a religious or spiritual journey where people come from all parts of the world to embark on a 500-mile walking journey, and during our Dialogue to Spain, we were given the opportunity to walk a small portion of the trail.
The trip started with very low morale. No one was excited to have a vigorous workout in the worst weather Spain had seen in years. Everyone was wearing oversized ponchos for the rain, which we had recently purchased in bulk from a convenience store on the side of the road. Upon starting the walk, we were able to see many locals walking the trail, as well as many tourists who had come to partake in this journey. As we passed by towns, we saw hostels that housed the walkers, as well as little shops where people convened at the end of arduous days of walking. We talked with many people along the Camino and asked them
Photo by Courtney Seeley 42
Photos by Courtney Seeley
about their lives and their impetus for making this trip. Whereas for many of us, this trip was a chance to see more of the region and bond with others on the trip, these people had traveled from all over the world for their own spiritual and self-growth reasons. When we reached the halfway point, it was time to eat the lunches which we had packed from La Campana, our residence halls. After lunch, it seemed that everything started going our way, and optimism inundated our group. The hail started to dissipate and slowly started to turn into a beautiful, sunny day. The ponchos could now be taken off, and everyone was laughing, talking and having a great time. Some of us were even dancing! It was almost as if the change in weather was directly reflected in our moods. Then we got to the last stop and our professor asked if we wanted to walk the rest or take the bus. I was pleasantly surprised when the group elected to finish off the walk. Spirits were high. Upon
returning
to
Northeastern
and
remembering all the moments on my Dialogue, the one that stood out to me the most was El Camino. More than anything, I think this trip
gave us all a fresh perspective, and one that was, incidentally, more global. Sometimes at college, we are in a sort of bubble and it is hard to understand other people’s experiences. This subsequently becomes an issue, because it is detrimental to society when there is a lack of empathy or understanding between people who are socialized in different environments. On this trip, however, just seeing everyone walking and talking to tourists and locals gave perspective as to why individuals undertake this journey. It also allowed us to come together as a group. At the same time, it allowed me to be very introspective and gave me the time to think about things that I do not necessarily have the time to ponder while in classes or on coop. You would be surprised just how long a walk like this takes, and during this time, how much you find out about yourself and others. I can only imagine how it would be to do the full Camino and I hope that one day, I am able to go back to Spain and walk the full 500 miles. Until then, I can only look back at this experience with a unique fondness and a new appreciation for self-reflection.
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Photo by Eric Lepeak
MAGNIFIQUE MARSEILLE b y E R I C L E P E A K , Personal Story
On the southern coast of France, perfectly nestled into the Mediterranean, sits Marseille. Away from the spotlight of Cannes and the money of Monaco, France’s oldest city combines metropolitan bustle with the idyllic beauty of the French Riviera. Last summer, I had the chance to discover this beautiful place while traveling through France with my three best friends. Despite our parents’ claims that Marseille was a “dangerous, working-class city where slaves were traded not too long ago,” we took the risk and booked a train from Nice to Marseille. Thinking that France could not get any better than the picturesque beaches and quaint streets of Old Nice, I was astounded by the compelling beauty of France’s largest port city. Upon our arrival in late July, we wandered through the streets of Noailles, a bustling North African-influenced neighborhood in the 1st arrondissement. After finding our Airbnb and meeting a more-thanwelcoming Marseille-born woman, we set off
44
to explore the city. We roamed open-air African markets selling everything from Kashmiri saffron to the famous Savon de Marseille, handmade soap crafted in the Provence region of France for over 1,000 years. Despite the wear on our bodies from traveling for the past 10 days, we explored the trendy streets of Cours Julien, filled with vibrant youth and countless cafes and got lost in the beautiful murals and museums of Le Panier, Marseille’s old city. That night, we found ourselves in a local dance bar where we met a small group of girls from Marseille, who we still call our friends today. Eager to show off the city they call home, we communicated, with my limited French, a few places my friends and I should visit the next day. It was this connection with enthusiastic locals that made our experience so special, as the place they recommended, an island in the bay that is part of the stunning Les Calanques National Park, would soon become one of my favorite places on Earth.
Completely unaware of the day we would soon have, my friends and I hopped on a 45-minute ferry to the Port du Frioul on Les ĂŽles. The sister islands looked like an undiscovered Greek island mixed with a lunar landscape. Jagged white rocks and low-lying shrubs formed small craggy peaks sloping into the sea like long tentacles. This extraordinary foreground framed an abandoned French fortress perched on the far side of the island that looked straight out of a James Bond set or a Tintin adventure.
Marseille holds an innate ability to unite the dichotomy between land and sea, work and leisure. Meandering along the winding, dusty path that traversed the island gave me time to appreciate the unspoiled beauty that lay all around. Free from guardrails, tourist attractions and signs directing you where to go, I felt a sense of freedom that simply cannot be found in the hustle of modern
cities. My friends and I scampered down one of the rocky coves to cool off and lost track of time reveling in the landscape. Beneath the warm Mediterranean water was a sea life teeming with coral, fish and quite a few crabs. Unable to leave, we stayed for hours, jumping off the rocky ledges over snorkelers into the sea below with nothing but water between Africa and us. Marseille holds an innate ability to unite the dichotomy between land and sea, work and leisure. A lively and diverse city gives way to the calming waves of the Mediterranean, lapping on the countless beaches. Each could exist independently, but when meshed together create a beautiful harmony. Shattering the stereotype of rude and unaccommodating, the Marseillais are warm and welcoming people, only adding to the allure of the city. Enthusiastic to share my experience with as many people as possible, I hope that anyone who gets the chance to visit this absolutely amazing city snatches it up, as I am eager to return to study or work in the near future.
Photo by Eric Lepeak
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DISCOVERING SOUTHWEST ENGLAND b y L I A M M O N A H A N , Study Abroad
While it is a well-known vacation destination for Brits, southwest England is a beautiful part of the United Kingdom that few Americans visit but really should. In 2018, I attended a Fulbright Summer Institute at the University of Exeter in the heart of the southwest. I returned to Exeter for a semester abroad in 2020. The region is primarily rural, and the landscape is gorgeous. Because the jet stream brings warm air to the area, the climate is moderate compared to the rest of the UK. Surprisingly, there are even palm trees thriving there, along with many pristine sandy or pebble beaches. Beach towns like Dawlish offer amusements and shops to enjoy, even in bad weather. The south coast is a World Heritage Site called the Jurassic Coast because the geology of the cliffside coastline reveals millions of years of history. The landscape changes with the seasons, and there are numerous outdoor activities you can enjoy, such as kayaking, hiking and surfing.
There are also many national parks, including Dartmoor National Park. The 236-acre moorland has varying landscapes, including peatlands and narrow winding roads that connect villages which frequently have crafts shops. If you are more interested in city life, not to worry. Exeter is the “capital of the southwest,” with a population of 117,000. Home to the University of Exeter, it is abuzz with students and geared for student life. You can easily spend a day browsing the shops in the city center and eating at restaurants serving various cuisines, including
Italian,
Jamaican
and
Moroccan.
Choices abound for pubs and clubs, where you can spend a night out with friends. For a more laid-back evening, visit the restaurant Board and play one of the restaurant’s 350 board games with friends as you enjoy pub fare. History buffs like myself will enjoy exploring the city’s historic buildings. Exeter Cathedral is an iconic 15th
Photo by Liam Monahan
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Photo by Liam Monahan
is not a drink. Cream tea is a scone topped with clotted cream (a thick, sweet cream) and jam usually served with hot tea. It is rich and heavy but definitely worth the calories. Southwest England is only a two-hour train ride away from London, but it feels like an escape, especially since the people are very friendly. People walking by exchange pleasantries. I remember one particular pub manager who was especially kind to my friends and I; she even advised us to skip the pub and go to the local market for some good Indian food. Whether you study here or visit for a weekend, I guarantee that you will find something you like, or at the very least get some excellent photos of the British countryside.
century Gothic cathedral at the heart of the city and is a backdrop for community events, like the Christmas Market. The ancient city has remains from the Roman Empire; you can tour the underground passages, which were medieval tunnels that supplied fresh water to the city.
In warm weather, I recommend visiting one of the many pristine sandy or pebble beaches. There are plenty of hearty food options throughout the southwest. For example, Cornish pasties are tasty, warm pocket pastries filled with meat and potatoes. Additionally, Devon ice cream is incredible because the cream is sourced from local cows. The cider, produced from local apples and brewed in Devon, is a great drink, especially if you are not keen on beer or other alcohol — Devon Mist is my top pick. Lastly, you
Photo by Liam Monahan
must try cream tea, which to my initial surprise,
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ASIA & OCEANIA 48
A Photo by Micayla Chow
49
REFLECTIONS ON OUR INSEPARABILITY
Photo by Micayla Chow
b y K E N D A L L T R E L E G A N , Dialogue
Inseparability was first introduced to our Dialogue by Dr. Vandana Shiva. Whether she was speaking about the interdependence of nature on its biodiversity or the importance of diversity of thought among people, she continually returned to the theme of separatism as the root of disharmony. Her words reminded me of a concept introduced by the South African theologian, Desmond Tutu, called ubuntu, which roughly translates as “my spirituality is inextricably caught up and bound in yours.” The immense power of each of our presences is both daunting and encouraging; so many things we say and do contribute to a larger picture. Even if we are welltraveled people, I beg you to keep asking yourself,
50
do you travel well? Are you having a positive impact on the community you’re entering? How do you contribute to the atmosphere among your traveling companions? Traveling in a group, you realize quickly how your attitude, willingness to help, and openness can transform the group’s mentality. The 24 of us were literally inseparable for over a month and each of our experiences have impacted the experience of the person next to us. Plagued with jet lag, I remember staying up all night in my cabin talking with my roommates who transitioned from strangers to friends in the dark. Our connections help us support our growth, but also make us accountable to each other. When I think about inseparability, I think about
how the world’s problems affect us all, like climate
very pesticides they used.
change and environmental degradation. How this
Throughout my Dialogue, I continually asked
interconnectedness created a problem so serious
myself how I could judge India when my own
that the livelihoods of 10 Koli fishermen, whom
country suffers from the same sickness. The ills
I interviewed in Mumbai, are being destroyed
of poverty, sexism, classism, religious and ethnic
by pollution and rising sea levels. I think about
persecution
how in the book Durable Slum, the author argues
infiltrate every society to varying degrees.
and
environmental
degradation
that Dharavi, the largest slum in India, does
Intercultural communication offers a cure
not exist in spite of the systems in place; rather
to these ills. Some articulations are more
it exists because of the structural systems in place.
beautiful than others. I won’t miss deciphering
I think about how the impact of monocultures
the ambiguous head nods of Indian men or the
owned by huge corporations like Monsanto have
way cars and rickshaws talk back and forth in
put Indian farmers in such economic danger that
an encore of horns. I long to understand how
it contributed to a suicide epidemic. The state
Indian mothers can always convince you to
of Maharashtra alone saw over 60,000 farmer
eat even more of their delicious food or how
suicides from 1990 to 2018. Many drank the
everyone dances so beautifully it’s like it’s been
51
choreographed. When a beautiful woman tapped
racism during an exercise at a school through
my head on the train, our TA had to explain to me
the Study Hall Educational Foundation. They
that I was just blessed by a hijra (a third gender
understood the equal shock in my face when they
person who embodies spirituality).
explained the caste system to me. Our shared
Empathy is interconnectedness at work. I learned the most from the simplest conversations
dismay with the current situation is evidence of hope for change.
with Indian people in passing. I didn’t understand
As we finished our jungle walk through the
most nuances in speech, but I understood the
forest surrounding the Navdanya Biodiversity
shock on a child’s face when I explained American
Conservation Farm, I remember seeing skeletons of brush covered in ash. We guessed the burning was intentional. The forest continues to be resilient despite the anguish it faces. It quite literally blooms from its wounds because the void is soon filled by the surrounding species. It echoed the makeshift classroom we saw set up in an unfinished, garbage-laden foundation of a house. Despite the bleak surroundings, the children filled it with smiles, laughter and songs.
I long to understand how Indian mothers can always convince you to eat even more of their delicious food or how everyone dances so beautifully it’s like it’s been choreographed. Dr. Vandana Shiva explained that we as humans aren’t inventing anything. We are simply renovating ourselves and the world over and over. I learned to shift my perspective. Facing challenges, I will choose to think of myself as under self-renovation, parts of me being burned away to allow for something new to grow. I learned that the ability to renovate myself is not individual. Everyone has the ability and obligation to continue improving the world Photo by Micayla Chow
around us. Afterall, interconnection can also breed resilience.
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Photo by Micayla Chow 53
CAMBODIA: A MINEFIELD OF DEVELOPMENTAL CHALLENGES by
C A R L A B E L L O C H A R A N G O , Co-op
When we think of global development issues,
development and how these problems feed into
the first things that often come to mind are
and exacerbate each other, forming a vicious
world hunger, access to safe drinking water and
cycle that is hard to break. I became particularly
perhaps infrastructure. However, development
interested in the unique barriers to development
is an impossibly broad term that envelops an
that post-conflict societies face, from agriculture
even greater range of problems, many of which
to politics to education. Every aspect of society
would never even cross the minds of those of
can be thrown off balance even long after a
us privileged enough to have been born and
conflict officially ends.
raised in developed nations. It is safe to say
Cambodia remains one of the most heavily
that a country’s level of development directly
mined countries in the world after decades of
or indirectly influences practically every aspect
conflict including a civil war, the brutal Khmer
of its society in ways that are both pervasive
Rouge genocide, Vietnamese occupation and
and intrinsically interconnected. During my six
American bombings. The Landmine Relief Fund
months on co-op at the Landmine Relief Fund
is an NGO whose mission is to fund landmine
in Cambodia, I began to understand how every
clearance and unexploded ordnance (UXO)
small part of daily life can be affected by delayed
disposal in Cambodia. They provide the monetary
Photo by Carla Belloch Arango 54
Photo by Carla Belloch Arango
support necessary for the demining operations of Cambodian Self-Help Demining, the only nongovernmental demining group in the country that is made up of and run entirely by Cambodians. As a co-op, I visited active minefields where deadly remnants of war still linger more than 20 years after the violence came to an end. The inability of locals to use the land for agriculture or new infrastructure has taken a major toll on development. Landmines and UXOs also cause permanent injuries such as limb loss or blindness, which can make it difficult or impossible for individuals to perform many jobs. As a result, the streets of Siem Reap, Cambodia’s largest tourism hub, are filled with disabled beggars who depend on tourist dollars to feed themselves. Other times, cows or water buffalo step on landmines and die, leaving families who cannot afford more cattle without a valuable source of income or help on their farms. UXOs also present a barrier to education. Often, parents in rural areas do not send their children to
school, afraid they will stumble across explosives on their walk there. However, landmines are hardly the only obstacles
to
development
in
post-conflict
societies. The systematic execution of doctors, engineers,
teachers
and
other
educated
individuals in the 1970s by the Khmer Rouge, the communist party of Cambodia, left a legacy of poor-quality medical care and education. Inadequate
healthcare
leads
to
lower
life
expectancy and higher mortality rates. I was surprised and saddened to learn that new parents in Cambodia do not name their babies right away to prevent themselves from getting too attached in case their newborns do not live long. A poor level of education, in turn, affects everything from literacy rates and employment prospects to less obvious matters like environmental preservation. Topics such as global warming and recycling are not emphasized in schools, and this lack of awareness about the importance of environmental preservation has left Cambodia with serious
55
deforestation and plastic pollution problems. These issues can also partially be traced, respectively, to profits yielded by the logging industry and inadequate waste management services, which are faulty in cities and nonexistent in rural villages. As a result, many villagers burn their waste, including plastic, which pollutes the environment even further and endangers their health. To worsen matters, schools are often inaccessible due to flooding, distance, cost of uniforms and classroom materials and gender inequality, preventing children of all ages from accessing an education. These barriers to a good education act as negative feedback loops that keep communities trapped in poverty by lowering their opportunities for gainful employment and limiting their awareness of the importance of societal issues such as environmental preservation that have an impact on their quality of life. Furthermore, as I listened to first-hand stories of hardship and resilience from survivors of genocide and war, I came to understand how collective societal trauma can shape mentalities and influence the way a society is run, from the governmental to the local level. Cambodia’s politicians embody a culture of paranoia and deep distrust after years of wartime betrayals, which holds the country back from realizing its full potential. Instead of allowing younger generations with fresh perspectives to hold office,
government
policies
remain
overly
conservative, controlled by the same political leaders who have been in power for decades. It is no coincidence either that military generals are some of the most influential people in the country following generations of conflict. This influence is frequently leveraged for personal or political gain, redirecting funds that could be used to aid the development of communities into
56
the pockets of the already wealthy and powerful. It is clear then that conflict can lead to a myriad of developmental challenges that are sometimes unexpected, yet all interrelated. A key takeaway is the fact that so many issues are specific to individual communities, or simply are not recognized and understood by people from wealthy countries that have never faced such challenges. Therefore, development efforts must focus on listening to the needs of local communities so that we can provide them with the tools and resources they need to help themselves. The colonial notion that we, as foreigners, know more about a country’s challenges than its population and should fix their problems for them, must be rejected. Cambodians have faced many hurdles in recent history. If there is one thing I have learned from their resilience and ingenuity, it is that applying local solutions to local problems is often the most effective way forward. For instance, monks have taken to fighting deforestation by blessing trees and then wrapping big swaths of orange fabric around their trunks to mark them as blessed, which gives the trees a sacred protected status that successfully prevents loggers from cutting them down. Additionally, I was shocked to see that many houses in a poor rural community in the northwestern province of Oddar Meanchey had solar panels on their roofs, as these devices are still not commonplace even in most developed nations. Since villagers could not afford the cost of electricity, which is 30 times higher in rural areas than in cities, they took advantage of the region’s sunny weather to produce their own instead. All the creativity and resourcefulness necessary to rebuild a country can already be found within its population. All we have to do is empower communities by giving them the support, funding and resources they need to get the job done.
Photo by Carla Belloch Arango 57
SEEING IT THROUGH b y C A M E R O N C L A R K , Co-op
Since leaving home for Mongolia in December 2018, I’ve barely spent a month in the United States. My studies at Northeastern have led me to Greece for a Dialogue, Mongolia for a global co-op, Australia for a study abroad and Ecuador, where I’m currently completing my second global co-op. The places that I’ve lived and the people whom I’ve met have broadened my perspective by several orders of magnitude, and I know that the Cameron who returns will be a fundamentally different person from the Cameron who began studying at Northeastern in 2017. Coming to Northeastern at 17 years old, I was tired of having lived in the same small village in New Hampshire for my entire life. I wanted to explore, and I wanted a challenge. My first experience living abroad in 2019 became the biggest challenge I have faced. While searching for my first co-op in my sophomore year, I noticed a position as an English teacher in the city of Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia. I had never taught before and, as a linguistics major, I never thought I would. But the idea of living in such a wildly different place pulled me in. I applied for the job, and less than a week later, I had already accepted an offer. Was it an impulsive decision? Definitely. Should I have waited longer and considered the effects of uprooting my life to a foreign country? Probably. Do I regret it? Not even a little. Despite not speaking a lick of Mongolian, not knowing how to teach English, never having lived on my own before and knowing absolutely nobody in the country, I somehow made it through the six
58
months that I spent there. The January night that I arrived, it was 40 degrees below zero; it rarely got above -10 until the end of March. On my daily 15-minute walk to work, I wore long johns, suit pants, snow pants, an undershirt, a button-down, a suit jacket, a thin down jacket, a full parka, two pairs of socks, winter boots, a beanie (usually covered by two hoods from my jackets) and thick gloves, sometimes with another pair of gloves underneath. Oh, and also a face mask, because not only is Ulaanbaatar the coldest capital city in the world, it’s also one of the most polluted, especially during the winter as people burn coal to heat their homes. Most days I couldn’t see more than 40 feet in front of me due to the smog as I walked to work in -25 degree weather while the sun finally rose at 9 a.m. Does that sound miserable to you? At times, it was. There were so many moments where I regretted my decision and longed for the comfort of my New Hampshire log cabin and for all of my friends and family with whom I could actually communicate. But I had committed to a six-month contract and I intended to see it through. Slowly, although hardly anyone spoke English, I managed to make a few friends, and life became a bit easier. Around the end of March, the temperature finally started to go up a bit, and by late April it was warm enough to sometimes enjoy being outside. As I taught more and more, I improved rapidly and the stress that I felt during my first-ever day as a teacher began to lessen. I often still missed the familiar comforts of home
Photos by Kirthi Padmanabhan
and the smog-less skies of New Hampshire, but I
the absurdity of the casual worship of Genghis
was making it through. I was doing it. I had — in
Khan. I miss horseback riding on frozen lakes and
complete naivete — set out to live abroad and I
roving the dirt roads of the Gobi desert. At times,
was succeeding. I had learned about Mongolian
I even miss the extreme cold. If I had allowed
culture, wandered the Mongolian countryside
the difficulties of a Mongolian life to weigh me
and gained an unexpected appreciation for the
down completely, I probably wouldn’t reflect on
warlord Genghis Khan (for whom the Ulaanbaatar
it now with such appreciation. Instead of giving
airport is named). I had Mongolian friends, and
in, I pushed through my experience, made the
although I still couldn’t speak the language at
best of it and came out the other side a much
all, had learned how to get around using mostly
stronger person, full of new insights and stories.
gestures.
So, for all of the readers who are on their own
As much as I struggled to find my way and
global journeys right now, if ever you feel like
put down roots in Ulaanbaatar, I now look
you’ve made a mistake in moving abroad, just
back on the time I spent there with nostalgia
think about how you want to feel when it’s over.
and warmth. I miss my wonderful Mongolian
Would you rather conquer the challenges of living
friends, the hardiness of Mongolian cuisine and
in a new country or let them conquer you?
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