GLOBAL JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL AFFAIRS PUBLICATION
VOL 4 ISSUE 2 FALL 2019
1
Editors
Photographers
Mihiro Shimano
Ahmet Küçükuncular
Amelia Langan
Amelia Langan
Sally Jin
Annie Sigl
Blen Wondimu
Barbara Ferreira
Kristin Terry
Brenna Ransden
Gillian Schlenner
Catherine Titcomb
Lucy Gavin
Jack Trapp
Simone Lamont
Johanna Stackmann
Claudia Bautista
Julia Moore Kayla Mackay
Designers Viviana Camargo Kristin Terry Kathryn Norris
Lauren Baumert Lucy Hoffman Maggie King Marcus Mahtemework Miracle Olatunji Paloma Socorro Taylor Niederland
Cover photo taken by Johanna Stackmann
About Global Journal
Insight to our vision
Global Journal is a Northeastern University International Affairs student-run publication, covering international news, events on campus, study abroad as well as domestic and international co-ops. Founded in 2014 by Madlen Gubernick, Elizabeth Zona and Yasmeen Alhaj, the student group aims to bring the international community together through experiential narratives. Because being a Northeastern student inevitably implies international interest and awareness, Global Journal encourages students of all disciplines to participate in the student group. Global Journal comprises not only international affairs students, but journalism, political science, business, health education and art students as well. We believe that as Northeastern students, we are all global citizens with vast international experience: Global Journal gives students the platform to share those experiences with the rest of the community. We hope to inspire students of all disciplines to partake in building international bridges to help promote our global experiences.
Copyright Š 2019 All rights reserved
Letter from the President
This semester has been one of great change for Global Journal. We said farewell to our longtime president, Francesca, and welcomed several new members of the executive board. Every member of the team, both new and returning, has put a great amount of time, thought and passion into creating this edition, which you will undoubtedly see as you read through its pages. As Global Journal expands and transforms, we continue to nd new and exciting opportunities to explore. I cannot wait to witness where this journey will take us. My time so far as president has inspired me, humbled me and taught me more than I could have possibly imagined. I am constantly impressed by the insight, talent and thoughtfulness shown by our many contributing writers and photographers. Their work truly shows the wealth of experiences awaiting students at Northeastern. Using their experiences - be they Dialogue of Civilizations, co-ops, study abroad, or their own adventures - they have explored the world and travelled outside of their own cultural and intellectual comfort zones. Within these pages you will nd the mysteries of the Bosphorus, the adventures of Vietnam by motorcycle and the “hyggelig� lifestyle of Denmark. From as close to home as Northeastern to as far away as Australia, our writers have embraced the global mindset and fed their desire for discovery. I hope in this edition you will nd not only some interesting stories, but also the desire for exploration and understanding that our writers have already embraced.
Sincerely,
Caitriona Keane President of Global Journal
Photo by Amelia Langan
Meet the Team Members of the board
Caitriona Keane President Biochemistry & International Affairs Majors From: Suffern, New York
Gabriela Beatham-Garcia VP of Public Relations International Affairs Major, French & Political Science Minors From: Madrid, Spain
Lindsay Lowery Editor in Chief Political Science & International Affairs Major, Security Studies Concentration From: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Mikaela Cole VP of Outreach International Affairs Major, International Security & Political Science Minors From: Huntington Beach, California
Catherine Titcomb Creative Director Marketing & Interaction Design Major From: Burlington, Vermont
Siti Aisyah Social Media Chair Journalism & Media/Screen Studies Major International Affairs & History Minors From: Jakarta, Indonesia
Tiffany Lam Treasurer Economics & International Affairs Major From: Manila, Philippines
Marcus Chen Web Editor Marketing Major, Experience Design Minor From: Taichung, Taiwan
48
12 17
21
10
Americas Alaska: Wild & Wonderful Argentina: The Pearl of the Atlantic Diplomats Peace and Diplomacy: Celebrating 74 Years of the UN
28
Europe A Day in the Life of a Student Living in the “Happiest Country on Earth” What’s So Special About Genève? More Than Just Its Wars and Conflicts Inspired to Act
39
32 42
36
40
Africa
The Teacher Becomes the Student A Lasting Connection
46
Middle East Istanbul-Induced Introspection The Cats of Amman
52
Asia & Oceania The History of the Instagram Spot Japan: South to North The House of the Rising Sun
10
Photo by Johanna Stackmann 11
Photo by Amelia Langan
Alaska: Wild and Wonderful Story by Amelia Langan, Personal Story
Being immersed in nature is both a humbling
exist in Alaska. We especially lost our grasp on
and awe-inspiring experience that allows us to
time with the fact that the sun didn’t set until
understand our place in this vast world. Last July,
after 11 p.m. and rose around 3 a.m.; this gave us
I traveled to Alaska with my family for two weeks
an abundance of hours in the day to explore the
on what would transcend an ordinary vacation.
wilderness. Our trip commenced with a six-hour
Going to Alaska was a vacation of which I could
bus ride through Denali National Park: 6.2 million
only dream, and when we nally boarded the
acres of untouched wildlife and wilderness. In a
plane to take off to Anchorage, it felt too good
world where our impact as humans is so pervasive
tobetrue–ironically,ourightendedupgetting (and often invasive), Denali is where nature canceled for the next day, so it was too good to be
remains in its truest, rawest form.
true. Nevertheless, we made the chaotic journey
Everything about Alaska was so surreal in
the following day from my home state of New
retrospect, but in the weirdest sense, it all felt
Jersey to the Last Frontier, and the real adventure
normal while we were there. Flying in a six-
began. Coming from the fast-paced lifestyle the
passenger bush plane to a remote peninsula
East Coast cultivates, it felt as if time ceased to
– Katmai National Park – and being only
12
hundreds of feet from wild brown bears seems
mountainous landscapes always in our view never
almost unfathomable to me as I reect on the moved, yet they appeared so dynamic. Alaska’s experience, yet it was nothing out of the ordinary
contrast
in the moment. Oddly enough, the normalcy of
paralleled the calm and chaotic aspects of my life,
everything we experienced made me realize how
further deepening my connection to the nature
incredible the experience was. One of my most
around me.
between
tranquility
and
intensity
memorable adventures on the trip was spending
Nature ignites the spark of adventure that
eight hours on a boat traveling through Kenai
burns within us, and Alaska transformed my
Fjords National Park, along the southern coast
spark into a bonre. From whitewater rafting
of Alaska. Ordinarily, I would’ve been hesitant to
through canyons to riding an ATV through the
disconnect from the virtual world for that long,
Chugach National Rainforest to hiking alongside
but the combination of nature and no service
glaciers, the opportunities for adventure were
ultimately culminated into a day of fascination
endless. I found my place within nature while in
and self-discovery. The interior of the park is
Alaska, and I realized how, in the universe’s eye,
inaccessible by car, so boaters and kayakers are
I am a speck in the world; I, like everyone else,
among the lucky few who can view the glaciers,
am expendable. While this may seem like a dark
for which the park is notorious. Being surrounded
revelation, it instead brought me peace. Being
by glaciers felt as if we were thrown back in time
in the mountains for two weeks made me realize
to the Ice Age; though they were incredibly
how small each of us is in this vast world, which
beautiful, it was bittersweet to view the rapidly
was quite a humbling and awesome experience.
receding glaciers and wonder how much longer
Aside from the beautiful pictures I brought home,
they’d remain. Nevertheless, the day was topped
the greatest takeaway from my adventures in
off with a variety of animal sightings: sea otters,
Alaska is that we are nothing to nature.
harbor seals, sea lions, pufns and orcas. The Photo by Amelia Langan
13
The overwhelming Viedma Glacier, photographed in black and white to reveal its breathtaking enormity.
14
Argentina: The Pearl of the Atlantic Photo essay by Johanna Stackmann, Personal Story
15
An abstract perspective on the beautiful nature in the National Glacier Reserve.
16
Further down south, a visit to El Calafate’s infamous Perito Moreno glacier. Throughout autumn, the rainy weather conditions give the monstrous glacier a picturesque blue hue.
17
Buenos Aires, the heart and soul of Argentina. A visit to Recoleta Cemetery, one of the most unusual and unique cemeteries in the world. Filled with elaborately carved scroll-work and stately pillars, the cemetery appears more magical than macabre.
18
Buenos Aires, with its diversity of European-style architecture has long been called the “Paris of South America.�
19
20
(Left)
(Above)
21
Diplomats Story by Kelsea Morshuk-Allen, Co-op
As Americans, we often do not show enough
are fewer and fewer jobs available. Here is my
respect towards those serving us overseas who
conclusion from our conversations: one must
are advancing American interests, helping the
always be able to look oneself in the mirror
most vulnerable populations such as refugees
at the end of the day. For example, during my
and asylum seekers, keeping our citizens safe
time in the Bureau of Population, Refugees,
in times of need of evacuation and facilitating
and Migration, I felt very good about the work
negotiations before wars can even begin: Foreign
I was performing and genuinely felt that I was
ServiceOfcers(FSOs),morecommonlyreferred contributing to aiding refugees. This seems to be to as diplomats. The process to even gain the
an odd concept to people outside of Washington
privilege of being an Ofcer requires a series D.C.of when they understand that this work was tests that most fail an average of three times,
done under the Trump Administration. Where
including a group test, a written test, a personal
I was as an intern in the system allowed me to
story, atop the requirements of foreign language
perform a job to which I was proud to connect my
skills, potentially a Master’s degree and a year of
name as the duties aligned with my moral values.
training. Many in the profession will tell you that
“
FSOs are not only the rst to arrive in a conict
zone, but are the last ones to leave, as conict transformation requires continuous efforts over many years. During my time as a co-op at the U.S. Department of State in Washington, D.C., I had the privilege of getting to interview a number of FSOs. I went into the interviews with questions about their career paths, and what I got were comprehensive responses about how these
FSOs ... have the right of refusal if they do not believe in the mission that a given administration is attempting to pursue...
”
people had chosen to redirect their entire lives
For Foreign Service Ofcers who have taken an
and uproot their families to serve their country. To
oath to uphold the Constitution, carry out the
not treat them with the utmost respect is to not
agenda of the administration and represent the
understand their role in keeping Americans safe.
president,itbecomesdifcultwhentheyhavethe
Part of what I learned from talking to real
opportunity to become the Head of Mission – or
diplomats was that performing their duty is a
an Ambassador – and do not personally believe
matter of understanding how one functions in the
in the policy they are tasked to uphold. However,
machine that is the United States government.
a little-known fact is that FSOs actually have
As an FSO progresses through the ranks, there
the right of refusal if they do not believe in the
22
mission that a given administration is attempting
it is right, they do not need to accept the new
to pursue in another country. Diplomats are not
position – which sometimes means exiting the
mindless cogs in the machine; they are not only
Foreign Service. While his time as Secretary of
allowed, but are encouraged, to respond if they
State was short-lived, my work under Rex Tillerson
do not believe in a mission or if they feel actions
demonstrated to me the salience of integrity. I
on behalf of the U.S. are being performed in
remember some of his last words in his goodbye
an unjust manner, so long as that feedback is
speech at the State Department were, “This can
given through the proper, professional channels.
be a mean town … don’t lose your integrity.” And
“
While their job is to advance the National Security Strategy and American interests abroad, in execution this is not done in the robotic, imperial manner some seem to believe.
FSOs don’t.
”
Additionally, FSOs, such as those in management positions at embassies, have the opportunity to create their own missions at post (the embassy). I know a Management Ofcer who created an initiative to help local women and girls in Ecuador. Diplomats are able to work under the political ip-opping that occurs from one administration to the next, as their careers can last longer than four to eight years and their duties and skill sets transcend party lines. While their job is to advance the National Security Strategy and American interests abroad, in execution this is not done in the robotic, imperial manner some seem to believe. It is in alignment not just with the National Security Strategy but with what is right morally to them, and if they do not feel
Photo by Catherine Titcomb
23
Peace and Diplomacy: Celebrating 74 Years of the UN Story by Lei Nishiuwatoko, On Campus
As Northeastern’s global perspective creates a
goal. The UN’s role in the international experience,
platform encouraging intercultural exchange both
inevitable in this globalizing world, was discussed
on campus and abroad, it is necessary to recognize
alongside students, professors and alumni. 74
the global institutions, policies and culture
years of peacekeeping, international diplomacy
that facilitate and regulate this exchange on a
and constructive steps towards achieving the
global level. 24 October 2019 marked the 74th
UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) were
anniversary of the most prominent international
recognized.
institution in the world, the United Nations, and
The event’s rst panel was on Sustainable
the Northeastern chapter of the United Nations
Development Goal 16: Peace, Justice and Strong
Association of the United States of America
Institutions, which aims to strengthen and hold
(UNA-USA) celebrated. UNA-USA is a grassroots
governments, international organizations and
movement dedicated to mobilize citizens to
other institutions accountable, further making
support and advocate the goals of the UN, and
peace, justice, law and security the new global
UN Day took us one step closer to realizing this
norm. UNA Northeastern President Elina Mariusta,
24
Photo by Paloma Socorro
who moderated the panel, started by telling us
Bouchra Benghomari (Class of ‘21, B.S. Cellular/
her adolescent international endeavors, including
Molecular Biology, Global Health) opened the
rsthand institutional injustices in Greece during window of hope as she discussed how crucial the refugee crisis and volunteering in America
UNICEF medical aid is for herself and her Algerian
during Hurricane Katrina. Undergraduate student
community. The importance of the structure and
“
I addressed the socio-cultural aspects of climate change, introducing the topic of the shift from the climate change movement towards the climate justice movement.
�
mission of the institutions themselves was also amplied. Elise Pitcairn from World Boston, an institution that hosts programs and networking events to facilitate citizen involvement, explained the importance of spaces specially designated for global dialogue. However, while such highlevel dialogue is crucial, Professor Risa Kitagawa illustrated how the powerful and policymakers often give leeway to dialogue that formulates new international norms, explaining that such dialogue should mature to include the perspectives of the marginalized and those affected hardest by issues. Not only is socio-cultural inclusion
25
necessary in the international discussion, but
level, between the particle matter concentration
so is a multidisciplinary approach, fourth-year
between Boston transportation stations, and
mechanical engineering student Melissa Rath
on the global level, on how some organisms
concluded. Rath described how global problems
can adapt more easily to global warming than
like climate change can be tackled from the
others. The panelists highlighted the importance
information technology dimension though new
of institutional and corporate intervention, and
technologies, on top of the political dimension.
the recognition of scientic and social aspects
However, while we may see global institutions
climate change to bring about climate justice.
like the UN as responsible for making change, educational institutions and their students also have the resources and opportunities to make change, innately assigning responsibility to our
“
Northeastern student body. Panelists of different research elds
Climate justice sees the ethical, social and political elements of and climate change...
”
academic specialties found common ground in their passion for Goal 13, Climate Action,
Ryan Kaminski, the Senior Program Manager for
a highlighted topic during this year’s UN
Human Rights at the UN Foundation, and Michael
General Assembly. The diversity of backgrounds
Green, the leader of nonprot Climate XChange
highlighted the global and multidisciplinary
and Northeastern alumni, both illustrated how
characteristic of climate action as it pertains
UNA Northeastern could push our agenda
to environment-scientic elements and socialforward beyond UN Day. Kaminski discussed cultural impacts. As a UNA Northeastern Research
the large-scale problem of climate change as
Fellow, I addressed the socio-cultural aspects of
a human rights issue, focusing on its effects on
climate change, introducing the topic of the shift
different cultures and industries. However, he
from the climate change movement towards the
also proposed tangible solutions students could
climate justice movement. Climate justice sees
take, encouraging UNA Northeastern to map the
the ethical, social and political elements of climate
university’s progress across SDGs. Green shared
change, and addresses the disproportionate
an experience on a Dialogue of Civilizations to
impact on marginalized communities. Riccio
Geneva, where his desire to take part in climate
emphasized her work at the Social Impact
action discussions involved him into cutting
Lab which educates Northeastern students on
through security at the UN headquarters, taking
philanthropy and how to navigate institutions
unaccompanied
to bring about justice. Thornton underlined her
to decode them with his peers in his dorm. He
experience at the Conference of the Parties
now serves as representative to the UN, and
environmental negotiations on the international
was named by President Obama a Champion of
stage. Gibbes, O’Donnell and Helmuth discussed
Change, showing how students have the potential
documents
and
attempting
the relevance of eld work on furthering the for impactful institutional change beyond the climate change movement. They posited a theme
grassroots.
of the disproportionate geographical effects of
UN Day catalyzed conversation for the UN
climate change and pollution on the domestic
mission and SDGs between a diverse group of
26
Photo by Paloma Socorro
individuals.
Moving forward with our mission,
we will take President Obama’s Presidential Speechwriter and candidate for the fourth District in Massachusetts House of Representatives, Dave Cavell’s, message with us. Cavell pushes us youth in change-making positions to persist and to pick ourselves up, even after multiple factors set us back.
“
Students have the potential for impactful institutional change beyond the grassroots.
” 27
28
29 Photo by Marcus Mahtemework
A Day in the Life of a Student Living in the “Happiest Country on Earth” Story by Miracle Olatunji, Study Abroad
Year after year, Denmark has been consistently voted as the happiest country on earth.
in
Frederiksberg,
a
suburban
area
within
Copenhagen. The rooms were studio-style, fully
This is in part due to cultural practices that
furnished with a kitchen and kitchen appliances.
emphasize happiness and the high quality of life
To get my groceries, on the weekends, I’d go
that many people here enjoy. The Danes have a
to a local grocery store called Føtex. I think of it as
cultural practice known as “hygge” (pronounced
the Target of Europe. I beamed with excitement
hoo-gah)Hygge . issometimesdenedas“cozy,”
when I saw Michelle Obama’s book in the store!
but a better denition of hygge is “intimacy.” A On campus, there is also a place to buy food cup of coffee with a friend in front of a replace called the canteen. This is a popular spot for might qualify, or a picnic in the park on a summer
students to go and study, hang out with friends
day.
and go during the break in between classes.
Denmark has such a high ranking on the
Copenhagen is one of the most bike-friendly
World Happiness Report, compiled by the United
cities, so many people ride their bikes to class. If
Nations, because of their focus on reducing
you’re planning to get a bike to rent while you’re
extreme unhappiness and investing in public
inCopenhagenforafewweeks,Swapetsisone
goods for all.
of the most popular and affordable bike rental
However, this comes at a steep cost. Danes
shops/services.Youpayaatfeetorentthebike
pay more income tax than any other nation – as
and they can either deliver it to you or you could
much as 60%. When I spoke to a few Danes about
go and pick it up. At the end of your time renting
this, they mentioned that they don’t really mind
the bike, you bring it back to the shop.
the high tax because the overall well-being of the country and the people living in it is what matters more to them. Denmark is a small country of nearly six million people, and many enjoy a high living standard. Denmark is said to have one of the highest income equality and lowest poverty rates out of any Western nation. I spent Summer 2 studying in Denmark at
“
Hygge is sometimes defined as ‘cozy,’ but a better definition of hygge is ‘intimacy.’
”
Copenhagen Business School (CBS). CBS is
Most of the buildings were located close to
considered one of the most prestigious business
each other and the architecture was simple and
schools in Western Europe and the world. Danish
beautiful. There was a lot of green space and
students can attend the school for free; however,
plenty of places to study and hang out with
due to the prestige, the school admissions can be
friends both inside and outside of the buildings.
very competitive.
Usually, after class, I’d grab lunch with
I lived in an apartment/residential building called
30
Porcelænshaven
which
was
located
friends.Fortherstfewweeks,wetrieddifferen restaurants around the city and then once
Photo by Miracle Olatunji
Photo by Miracle Olatunji
we identied our favorites, we would decide One of my favorites was one where I purchased between them. My personal favorite place to eat
a beautiful silk scarf for myself and one for my
was Vintage Coffee, which had delicious falafel
mom. The shop manager smiled and asked if I
sandwiches, smoothies, red velvet cake and other
could model them.
options. We still continued to try new places but we quickly found our favorites. Post-lunch was usually dedicated to studying, mostly at the popular library located on Solbjerg Plads 3. Afterwards, the rest of the day was usually spent exploring the city and country. My friends
After spending the evenings exploring and eating, it was time for bed and I’d get ready for a new day and new adventures! Although I was able to establish a routine, each day I got to experience or do something special and unique while in the happy country of Denmark.
and I made a lot of great memories each day. I logged thousands of steps during walks across Denmark – from restaurants in Nyhavn to the vibrant Tivoli amusement park. Locals were often very friendly. One local saw my friend and I struggle to translate a menu and pointed us to the English menu. We received a lot of great recommendations from local Danes on great places to visit, eat and shop! In Denmark, there are a lot of accessory shops.
31
Photo by Marcus Mahtemework
What’s So Special About Genève? Story by Marcus Mahtemework, Dialogue
We all have colorful expectations of studying
in Geneva truly animated me in the months
abroad. Whether the charm lies in experiencing
leading up to my trip while setting the stage for
native cuisine, absorbing the local culture or
my greatest travel story yet. Instead, my time
attempting to speak a foreign language with the
abroad allowed me to delve into the intricacies of
people of the country, most of us welcome the
international law and development policy during
opportunity to study outside the United States
my time researching at the UN, while also gaining
with open arms. Prior to my arrival, I anticipated
more of an appreciation for the work that global
that my time in Switzerland would most likely
organizations do.
be spent as a tourist, rather than as a full-time
It is worth mentioning that my time in
student. My visions of playing soccer in parks
Geneva coincided with the 100th anniversary
with locals, sampling authentic Swiss chocolate
of the founding of the United Nations –
and stepping into the United Nations Ofce formerly named the League of Nations that was
32
established in 1919. It was created as a coalition
While the academic intent of our trip was to
of states that would protect and assist the liberal
explore the issues of disarmament and human
transformation of the international system. After
security, I left Geneva with many intangible lessons.
a century of mediating military conict After and speaking and listening to the honorable organizing humanitarian initiatives, the United
former judge and apartheid activist, Albie Sachs,
Nations has continued growing in stature, while
I found more value in the mantra “Love your
providing its member states with a viable forum
brother.” Likewise, the speakers, which consisted
to address global issues. I still, however, failed
of ambassadors, Nobel laureates and NGO
to fully comprehend the signicance of the UN’s representatives that met with our delegation, undertaking, and what the UN as an institution
all possessed one thing in common: a special
meant to the international community, until after
dedication to ensuring the sustainable growth of
my time abroad.
peoples and nations everywhere. Despite coming
With all this being said, my family did have
from entirely different professional backgrounds,
some familiarity with the United Nations. One of
these individuals collectively motivated me to
my aunts had previously worked for UNICEF as
look beyond my national perspective and to
Chief of Human Resources for Emergencies for 30
embrace my global identity. Over the course of
years. At different family gatherings, she would
my trip, I gained a newfound respect for all the
tell my brother and me about her eldwork with UNICEF to bring immediate relief to war-torn parts of the Middle East or helping state governments formulate response plans to humanitarian crises in Africa. Whenever she told me about her time working in the UN I was always impressed, but not inspired. The important distinction here is that I always found her line of work admirable, but I was never galvanized by these anecdotes to takemyowninitiativeinthiseld–thatis,untilI spent a month in Geneva this past summer. Geneva is the humanitarian capital of the world.
Photo by Marcus Mahtemework
There is no other city on the planet with such an immense concentration of intergovernmental
work that goes into keeping the international
agencies that are aid or development-oriented.
community more secure. More importantly, I
This is by no means a new phenomenon. Geneva
understood that the greatest asset we have as
has been a beacon of international cooperation
humans is the ability to cooperate. This is what
since the construction of the Palais des Nations
makes Geneva so special. Beyond the city’s
and is a true manifestation of a global city. Those
amazing commitment to humanitarian ideals
that work for the UN and subsidiary organizations
and its hopeful interdisciplinary professional
choose to come to Geneva because they
community, it is at its core, a place that exhibits
recognize the value in creating a safer, more
the best intentions that humankind has to offer.
equal world for people everywhere.
33
Photo by Taylor Niederland
More Than Just Its Wars and Conflicts Story by Taylor Niederland, Co-op
food three times a day, visit plenty of museums “You’re co-oping in Syria?! … in Siberia?!”
(including my favorite, the Nikola Tesla Museum),
“No, I’m co-oping in Serbia,” I said, impatient
interact with locals and go on tours where Serbian
and tired of people confusing my co-op location.
tour guides were able to share their perspectives
“You know, it’s an Eastern European Balkan
and knowledge of Serbian history.
country that was formerly part of Yugoslavia.”
Photo by
I also had the opportunity to travel to other
“Oh, that country. I got it confused.”
former
Yugoslavian
countries:
Bosnia
and
I had this conversation with countless people
Herzegovina, Montenegro and Slovenia. Even
after sharing the location of my next co-op.
though these countries have many similarities,
People seemed to have trouble placing Serbia
the visible differences and diversity among them
on the map, even my fellow university students.
surprised me. In Bosnia and Herzegovina, the
It wasn’t until I brought up the former Yugoslavia
large Turkish inuence is almost impossible
that the thought clicked and they accurately
miss. Here, I had the tastiest meal of my life: a
identiedthecountry.
blend of traditional Bosnian and Turkish food. I
Serbia is known by Americans for its wars and
also visited my rst mosque and learned about
conicts. However, it is so much more than that.the country’s rich religious history. In Montenegro, Serbia is rich in culture, food, language, art and
the country’s love for water polo is omnipresent;
history. While living in Belgrade, the capital of
every hundred yards, I stumbled across children
Serbia, I had the opportunity to eat traditional
and adults alike scrimmaging along the bay.
34
y Taylor Niederland
Photo by Taylor Niederland35
Photo by Taylor Niederland
Photo by Taylor Niederland
As for Slovenia, the highlight of my trip was
Two weeks before leaving for Belgrade, my
visiting Ljubljana, its charming and quaint capital.
brother’s close friend mentioned something
Ljubljana is a strange mixture of a small-town
in passing that cemented in my thoughts.
feeling coupled with a diverse group of residents
Previously, he had spent a couple of weeks in
with varying ethnic backgrounds.
Serbia competing with his club water polo team.
“
[To influence others not to visit entire countries] shrinks the potential for knowledge-sharing and perpetuates the intolerance of others.
”
36
Once I informed him of the location for my next co-op, he commented, “Yew! I tell everyone never to go there. I hated it.” After he shared this, I immediately doubted my decision to co-op in Serbia. I questioned if Belgrade was the right city for me and if I would be safe as a single female because of his remark. Now, after having lived in Serbia for three months, I realize the fallacy of my brother’s friend’s comment. I am sure the media’s portrayal and the typical rhetoric surrounding Serbia and
Photo by Taylor Niederland
other former Yugoslavian countries played a
that of my brother’s friend. I will strive to share
role in developing his opinion; well that, along
the beauty of former Yugoslavia with as many
with his team’s harsh loss to the Serbs, shaped
people possible in an effort to convince people
his negative perspective. However, this doesn’t
how Serbia, along with its neighboring countries,
entitle one to inuence others not to visit entire is morethanjustitswarsandconicts. countries. To do so is harmful, as it shrinks the potential for knowledge-sharing and perpetuates the intolerance of others. We should encourage travel to foreign countries, especially when the culture varies tremendously from our own. We should be pushed outside of our comfort zones because this discomfort broadens our perspective and enables individuals to become more accepting of others. My aim is to minimize the number of people inuencedbyindividualswithsimilarmindsetsto
37
Inspired to Act Story by Nile Drochak, Dialogue
As I shoved my unfolded clothes into my
me back home enticed me to help a stranger. To
suitcase and snatched my passport while rushing
me, a true act of charity means to give without
out the front door for the airport, I thought, “Wait,
receiving anything in return. As she came towards
where exactly is Bosnia and Herzegovina? And is
our table, I thought, “This is an opportunity to
it one or two different countries?” At the time, I
make someone’s day better and my actions will
did not know that my rst time in Europe would not be rewarded.” I reached across the table belledwithinspiringexperiencesandlessons. to give her money. With a smile, she kissed the Early in the trip, as we made our way through
coins, pointed toward the clear sky and gave me
the streets of Sarajevo, we decided to have
a blessing in a language I did not understand. As I
lunch at a café with trees and plants inside.
sat there thinking about what had just happened,
While waiting for our food, an old woman was
wenishedourfoodandheadedbacktothehotel
asking people inside the café for spare change. I
to learn about politics and war in the Balkans.
reached for my pocket for anything I had at that
The ethnic war between Bosniaks, Croats
moment and prepared to help this woman as
and Serbs in the 1990s destabilized the region,
she made her way around the café. Being away
suspending the Balkans in conict created
from home, halfway around the world, the fact
by negative peace. While positive peace is a
that my act of charity couldn’t possibly follow
proactive process which requires the efforts of the
Photo by Barbara Ferreira
38
Photo by Annie Sigl
people and government to restore relationships
refugee camp that housed migrants seeking
and promote future cooperation, negative peace
asylum, most of whom came from the Middle
is simply the absence of conict. In places with East. As we passed, I felt uncomfortable because negative peace, like the Balkans, tensions remain
we were mere onlookers but I wanted to have
and the eruption of violence is possible.The most
some sort of human interaction. My mind was
infamous event during the war was the Srebrenica
overwhelmed and scrambling for ways to do so,
genocide where more than 7,000 Bosniak men
and I felt paralyzed. “After everything you learned
were ethnically cleansed by Serb forces despite
about passivity, how can you just stand there?” I
the United Nations being assigned to protect
thought. I was inspired by a fellow classmate who
them. The UN misjudged the scope of these
initiated a conversation with the refugees in the
events and their inaction allowed the Serbs to
camp. Sometimes taking a small step can open
continue perpetrating these acts. Consequently,
the door for greater action. Experiences like this
I have come to realize that evil does its best work
taught me that it is important to use logic to solve
when we don’t believe it exists.
problems but that your heart can also be a moral
The tension between ethnic and political
guide on how to act. So ultimately, having the
groups that was furthered by the war still exists
courage to follow your heart is what’s important.
today. To move toward a peaceful future, mending
From being unable to locate Bosnia and
relationships should be based on the future
Herzegovina on a map to having these valuable
rather than the past. We should think about the
experiences and lessons in the Balkans, this
possibilities for cooperation rather than trudge
trip helped me grow into a better person at an
in past mistakes because trying to move forward
exponential rate. Although my trip may have
with the past in mind can lead to future conict ended, the responsibility to take action and do and tense relationships.
the right thing is far from over.
Toward the end of our trip, we visited a
39
40
41 Photo by Lauren Baumert
Photo by Nikki Roche
Photos by Julia Moore
The Teacher Becomes the Student Story by Julia Moore, Dialogue
“Will you be our teacher?”
When I arrived at St. Anne’s Family Home
A little girl had grabbed a book and handed
in Ghana, it was clear that it was a place where
it to me. I looked at her and my face lit up. There
community was strong and unwavering. While
are a lot of opportunities to make connections
interacting with the kids, a group of rst grade
with people from a completely different culture
girls came up to me and pulled me into their
when you’re abroad, but this moment in the
classroom. The teacher was not there at the
classroomwasmyrst.
moment, so the students were scattered around
42
the desks haphazardly while they wrote, looked at
The classroom was only the beginning. I
books or chatted. I talked with them for a bit, but
taught a hygiene class at St. Monica Girls High
at times I didn’t know what to say. I hadn’t had
School, and this class was rewarding because
many interactions with young kids at this point in
the students had so many interesting questions;
the Dialogue, and I didn’t know what to talk to
their nervous laughter was overpowered by their
them about. To my relief though, every time I ran
curiosity to learn. However, the most meaningful
out of words the students would quickly jump in,
interaction began when we all went outside after
asking me about my favorite foods and laughing
classes. Suddenly all the girls were dancing, and
when I told them I loved Jollof and chicken. That’s
unfortunately for me, I am a horrible dancer.
when the girl approached me and asked if I would
I really can’t move my hips separately from my
be their teacher. I felt honored she had thought
body, and this proved to be quite amusing for
of me as being able to be a teacher, especially
everyone. The girls I was with were happy to
because I later met her actual teacher, and he
show me their moves, and I would try my best
seemed extraordinarily passionate and invested
to imitate them, but most times everyone would
in all the students. I took the book and told her
just laugh and show me again slower. It’s funny
that I could not be her teacher, but that I would
that they thought this would help. At rst I was
love to read with her. She smiled and nodded.
embarrassed; I don’t get embarrassed easily,
I held the book open and as we read, everyone
but they were really laughing and I could not
from the crowd took turns yelling out the words
make my moves better no matter how hard I
they knew. Even though it was nothing dramatic,
tried. However, looking around me, I realized
this moment reminded me of the love of learning
they weren’t laughing at me because I couldn’t
that can be fostered through education, and
do it; they were just amused by my lack of ability
how much these kids valued their time in the
and they wanted so badly for me to learn. It was
classroom, even without a teacher. They were
severely hot outside and I was sweating buckets,
so excited to show me how much they knew,
but I danced and danced and we laughed until
and all I could think about was how everything
we forgot about the heat and discomfort.
I was feeling at that moment was truly pure and
This was a really unique experience for me
genuine.
because they shared a part of their culture with
“
me outside the classroom and we bonded on a
By the end, I had learned a new array of dance moves; more importantly, I knew everyone around me by name and who was the best dancer.
”
level without words. By the end, I had learned a new array of dance moves; more importantly, I knew everyone around me by name and who was the best dancer. This experience pushed me out of my comfort zone while giving me a chance to grow and experience teaching on my own, even if it was only for an hour. It pushed me from being an outsider who was just visiting, to someone who was hanging out with these girls and communicating with them through a medium that they loved and were sharing with me: dance. And it all started in a classroom. 43
A Lasting Connection Story by Kayla Mackay, Dialogue
This past summer I was fortunate enough to
to know everything about me and forced me to
attend the Social Enterprise and Micro-Consulting
board the bus last, even having her mom get
Dialogue in Cape Town, South Africa. It was
my number before we left for the day. She told
a trip that allowed us to work with and consult
me numerous times that I “couldn’t forget her,”
local entrepreneurs from the area and learn more
and because of the connection we made, I can
about the social and economic issues impacting
genuinely say that I won’t. Over the course of
Cape Town today.
my month in Cape Town, I learned that in order
Our professor asked us one morning in class,
to truly make a positive impact on someone’s
“So it rained last night, what are we going to do
life, you have to put yourself in their shoes, ask
about that?” To me and many other students, we
questions, understand their perspective and,
didn’t think twice about the rain other than having
most importantly, be kind.
to grab an umbrella before walking out the door.
“
Being present and giving your attention to theTownshipsthathadooded,ruiningfurniture those around you can and affecting the living situation of many families. have a lasting impact on Wespenttherstminutes 03 brainstormingwhat we could do as a group to raise money for those an individual. He went on to say that with all the rain Cape Town
had gotten the night before, there were homes in
”
in need and our professor reached out to the Red Cross to take action and learn more about the
I had a number of friends tell me that they
impact of the storm. From our professor and the
had been to Cape Town and loved it. However,
various individuals we met on my trip, we learned
reecting back on the trip, I don’t think any of
how to be more aware of our surroundings and
them have truly been to Cape Town. They didn’t
to consciously practice generosity whenever
interact and spend time with the community
possible.
members, travel into the Townships or get to
That being said, at times throughout the
know local business owners. It was giving my time
program I struggled to understand what impact
and making connections with people along the
I was having on the various organizations we
way that allowed me to gain a new perspective
visited. Yes, we made donations, but I didn’t feel
of South Africa. I’ve come to the realization that
like I was there long enough to make a difference.
regardless of where you travel around the world,
I slowly began to realize that being generous
it’s the people you meet and spend time with
doesn’t have to mean tangibly giving. Being
that truly make the experience memorable and
present and giving your attention to those around
impactful, on both sides.
you can have a lasting impact on an individual. While visiting a Surf Outreach program, one little girl, Mila, would not leave my side. She wanted
44
Photo by Kayla Mackay
Photo by Lauren 45 Baumert
46
47 Photo by Lucy Hoffman
Photo by Lucy Hoffman
Istanbul-Induced Introspection Story by Ahmet Küçükuncular, Personal Story
Never before has leaving a place behind
or Kostantiniyye. It has witnessed the rise and fall
saddened me more than when I left Istanbul in
of kingdoms, empires, sultanates and republics
July after my brief yet mesmerizing stay. Even
and withstood wars, crusades and conquerors.
the notion of not being able to open my eyes
All that remains now is Istanbul; simple, albeit
to the view of the Bosphorus the next morning
exceptional, Istanbul.
nearly convinced me to miss my ight; surely
After the hassle of work, I checked into my
self-sabotage is validated if it gives rise to a view
hotel in Arnavutköy. There I spoke with the hotel
to be remembered, a smell to be reserved and
concierge. On my taxi ride, I had been too invested
tastes to be savored.
in reading my bite-sized evening newsletter on
I came to appreciate Istanbul as a world of its
my phone to notice the places I had passed. Only
own. Spanning Europe and Asia, it is much more
when the car stopped did I realize the proximity
than a mere bridge or a city that never sleeps. It
of the water, the paralyzing breeze mixed with
is much more than Byzantium or Constantinople
the scent of the sea, a common characteristic of
48
islands. It was then that I learned the history of
engage in political conversations with the locals
the town I was in and the myth of the strait which
which, I will not deny, was what initially was on my
divided the two continents
mind. I had looked forward to asking a few people
Like many other things in this world,
about their thoughts on the government, the coup
Bosphorus has its fair share of Greek mythology.
d’état attempt a few years back, their take on the
According to legend, Hera, the goddess of
recent mayoral elections and so on. Too taken
marriage, suspected her husband Zeus, the king
aback by the Bosphorus, I never did any of those.
of the gods, had a relationship with a mortal
I still wonder why that was the case. How could a
woman named Io. To protect Io from Hera’s
sight be so simple, yet so spectacular, that I was
wrath, Zeus turned Io into a cow, and she crossed
rendered speechless and useless throughout my
the strait to the Black Sea. During her escape,
stay? How could an unpretentious, natural strait
shemetPrometheus,thetitanwhostolerefrom draw me to it for hours from when I returned the gods and gave it to humans. Thus, the strait
to the hotel until I went to bed? Perhaps most
acquired the name Bosphorus, literally meaning
importantly, how could a simple, unassuming
“ox passage” or “where the cow passes.”
body of water instigate such a signicant self
Once home to various dignitaries in the
reection? Did I simply need introspection and
Ottoman era, the neighborhood I was in –
happen to be at the Bosphorus, or does it,
Arnavutköy – was now a tribute to what it once
along with its surrounding houses and greenery,
was and “yals” (mansions constructed along possess mysterious powers to inict the sam the water) adorned the coast. The houses had
phenomenon in everyone? It has been months
an almost magnetic effect. According to the
now and I still don’t know why I haven’t been able
concierge, Arnavutköy was a place for all: Muslims
to stop looking at that magnicent view. Take
had their mosques, Christians had churches
a look at some of the photographs I took, put
and Jews had synagogues. Even now, it was
yourself in my shoes; had you been there, think if
bewildering to hear the distant echoes of minarets
you would have been able to stop looking at that
calling to prayers and church bells tolling, at times
magnicently picturesque and yet somehow stil
simultaneously. By this time, I was already sipping
mysterious body of water...
my second cup of Turkish coffee, listening to the concierge and hoping that a ock of in-checkers to the hotel was nowhere near imminent. It was nearly midnight and, partly because of the coffee, I listened to his brief lecture on the history of the neighborhood and district and his list of mustsee places: some cafés, a few restaurants by the seaside, two museums, a square people went to catchshandajoggingroutebytheshoreIused the very next morning. Rarely before had I felt so calm and carefree. Anyone who follows the news and has an interest in Turkish politics, like myself, would expect to
Photo by Ahmet Küçükuncular
49
The Cats of Amman Story by Maggie King, Co-op
My home in Amman was on the top of a hill,
I nished my trek up the hill. The mystery of the
like at least half of the houses in the undulating
cats’ chunk was solved and my love for the city
landscape of the city. “Right off the Seventh
deepened.
Circle, then go to the supermarket and make two
I could feel my phone buzzing in my bag as
turns,” I would instruct my taxi drivers in Arabic,
my boss spoke to me. I thought, “Who would call
paying careful attention to make sure they
me during the day?” I nodded at his instructions
weren’t taking a long route. Once a week, I would
and slipped into the bathroom as soon as I could
navigate those two turns on foot, walking down
to make sure there wasn’t an emergency. It in
tothesupermarkettolluponmybread,cheese fact was not a call, but dozens of texts from my and pomegranates for the week. Then I’d trudge
roommate. At least 20 photos of the cutest kitten I
back up the hill, out of breath with the weight of
had ever seen, interspersed with heart eye emojis
my groceries by the time I reached the turn at
and a long voice message asking if I wanted a
the bottom of the hill. I always made sure to look
new kitten as a roommate. One look at the
over at the two dumpsters on the corner: stinky,
kitten’s uffy ears and I immediately understo
overowing and home to a surprisingly chunky his urgency to message me at work. I responded
“
But it will never be my city. It will always belong to the cats.
”
in all caps. Two days later, he was ours. We named him Natuf though we called him “habibi,” or “darling,” so much he probably thought it was his name. We danced around the house with him in ourarms,layontheoorforhourswatchinghim sleep and took hundreds of photos. Natuf was
family of street cats. They typically lay lounging in
ofciallythecutestcatinJordan,andarguablythe
the sun, offering a lazy hiss if I walked too close. I
most spoiled. He lived his entire life in our little
loved them. And I wasn’t the only one. As I walked by one evening after work, readying myself to power up the hill, a car pulled over next to the dumpsters. I watched as a man dressed in a suit exited, carrying a large bag. The cats began to circle him, mewing loudly. He proceeded to pull several butcher packages out of the bag, carefully unwrapping the cuts of meat and placing them on plates he spread across the back of his car. He sang to the cats as he placed the feast on the ground. They purred; he sang. Full of joy. He got back into his car, his evening task complete and
50
Photo by Maggie King
Photos by Maggie King
apartment, occasionally joining us for an evening on the balcony for a little fresh air. He meowed at the street cats below. I felt like they were talking to each other, sharing secrets about their city and the people that they allow to live there. When I left my co-op in Amman in December, I held him in my arms and cried. I returned to Amman two months later on a study abroad program. I would stay in the city for only four weeks this time. I visited Natuf on my second day there. He purred. I convinced myself that he remembered me. I sat at my old kitchen table with him on my lap, scooping labneh onto bread and catching up with my former roommate. I slipped Natuf scraps of bread as we ate. On my way out, I stuffed some extra food in my pocket. As I walked past the dumpsters, I stopped to disperse it to the cats. I convinced myself that they, too, remembered me. Amman is a city I will always long to return to. But it will never be my city. It will always belong to the cats.
51
52
53 Photo by Brenna Ransden
Photo by Carolina Ramos
The History of the Instagram Spot
Photo by First Last
Story by Carolina Ramos, Study Abroad
Anyone that visits or lives in Melbourne,
dips that were offered. The place was beautiful
Australia, is familiar with the Queen Victoria
to me, and it immediately became one of my
Market. Centrally located in the city’s downtown
favorite spots in the city.
area, Queen Victoria Market, or Queen Vic
Queen Victoria Market also offers special night
as some kindly call it, is one of the city’s most
events where endless food stands are set up. It
popular landmarks. As the largest open market
becomes quite easy to get lost inside the market,
in the Southern Hemisphere, there is a lot to do
and it is overwhelming to try and choose what
there, and as an exchange student in Melbourne,
type of food you want for dinner. The atmosphere
I’ve come to appreciate this space weekly.
is electric as everyone is pushed together due to
The rst time I visited the market, I was the enormous number of people present, and the amazed by its size. It reminded me of a much larger version of Haymarket that we have in
place vibrates with energy and music. The magic of Queen Victoria Market lies in
Boston. As I shopped there, my eyes were lled
its visitors: people from all walks of life come
with the vivid colors of the beautifully fresh fruits
together to enjoy the atmosphere. You will
and vegetables, some of which I did not even
encounter families walking around pushing
recognize. People shouted trying to persuade
strollers with their little ones, students rushing
or bargain with you to purchase their items and
to get the best deals, older people who take
I walked around looking for the best deals. As I
their time checking every aisle to get the most
made my way through the crowded walkways to
delicious looking vegetable and tourists who
the indoor part of the market, I was excited by
cannot take two steps without stopping for
the number of free samples of cheese, bread and
a photograph. This vivacious, architecturally
54
Photo by Carolina Ramos
beautiful and culinarily interesting place does not
of Aboriginal Australians. In 2006, the Aboriginal
escape from anyone’s Instagram posts, locals and
Heritage Act was passed, setting out to protect
foreigners alike. Although I visited the market on
places of signicance to Aboriginal people
various occasions, I only came to know its history
in the Victoria area. This means that the Old
halfway through my stay in Australia, and it is
Melbourne Cemetery area cannot be dug into
unknown to the majority of its visitors.
because it would further disrupt and disrespect
“
the Aboriginal Australians buried there. Even with
This vivacious, architecturally beautiful and culinarily interesting place does not escape from anyone’s Instagram posts...
these protections, some people still feel that it is
notsufcient,especiallyconsideringthehisto context of how badly Aboriginal Australians were treated by the Europeans. Meanwhile, others
”
also feel like Queen Victoria Market should be
market has stood tall and has been a crucial part
picturesque, and it gave me pause when I
of Melbourne, undergoing numerous expansions.
learned about it. I had been enjoying a place,
Although it is a beloved landmark, there is some
taking pictures and posting about it on Instagram
controversy around the market. Where Queen
without knowing the full story. This experience
Vic now stands there used to be a cemetery.
made me understand that I can still enjoy Queen
Sinceitrstopeneditsdoorsinthe1860s,the
protected as a historic landmark. The history of Queen Vic is not the most
This cemetery was the rst one ever established Vic, but I need to know its historical context. in Melbourne, so many people lay to rest there.
When traveling or living abroad, learning the
In fact, the controversy revolves around who
history of the place I am going to is fundamental
is buried there – Aboriginal Australians. This
to better understand the location, its culture and
means that every time that people visit the
its people, adding to my personal growth and
market, they are literally stepping on the graves
experiences.
55
Japan: South to North Photo Essay by Brenna Ransden, Study Abroad
I decided to take the scenic
intricate
natural
landscape,
route to study abroad and
diverse architecture and staunch
go by way of Japan, since I
contrast between the sacred
had an extra month of winter
and secular sphere paint the
break. With preconceptions of
country in an entirely different
sprawling urban landscapes, I
light.
expected weeks of high-tech
Exploring
Japan
from
ramen machines, robots that
south to north, I was able to
deliver sushi directly to my
indulge in the distinct beauty
table and public transport so far
of the country in a capacity
advanced from the MBTA that
often
underappreciated.
In
they can hardly be classieddiscovering the lesser-known as the same thing. While all of
side of the country, I felt
those did occur, it was in fact
compelled to capture it and
the exact opposite that made
share.
me fall in love with Japan. The
56
“
...staunch contrast between the sacred and secular sphere...
�
(Left) From an inscription beside the tree: “Ema, o V tive tablets for special personal prayers and gratitude toward the deities enshrined in Meiji Jingu Shrine … Hung around this divine tree with your wishes written on the reverse side, these Ema are offered at Mikesai, the morning ceremony held every day, and your supplications are conveyed by the priests.” Meiji Shrine, Tokyo
“
Wafting the incense smoke is said to cure any ailments visitors may have.
” 57
Naha, Okinawa
(Right) Isolated from the main islands of a J pan and influenced by the hea y
merican
presence due to the military base,
ina a’s
architecture is unli e any other part of
apan.
“
When stones would fall into the caves, they would make a sound similar to ‘gangala,’ hence its name.
”
Valley of Gangala, Nanjo, Okinawa
Located
near
the
southern tip of the island of Okinawa in the East China Sea, the Valley of Gangala consists of limestone caves buried in an ancient forest.
58
Fushimi Inari Taisha, Kyoto
Over 1,300 years old, Fushimi Inari Taisha enshrines the Shinto Deity Inari. Originally the god of rice, Inari also represents business prosperity and safety in modern interpretations. A series of shrines are scattered along Mount Inari, connected by trails of vermillion gates.
Three Japanese Macaque Monkeys sit atop a shelter on Mount Arashiyama overlooking the city of Kyoto. Arashiyama Monkey Park, Kyoto 59
The House of the Rising Sun Story by Jack Trapp, Personal Story
Myrstthoughtwas,“Christ,it’sHOT!”Indeed, it was, as my phone indicated the temperature to be 33 degrees Celsius, which roughly translates
gripped their rosaries when I told them about my plan. Every day was entirely unique because we
to a thousand degrees Fahrenheit. As my dad
didn’t have a specic itinerary or plan. We rode
had repeatedly warned, Vietnam would be wet;
until we couldn’t feel our bruised tailbones and
when it wasn’t raining, I’d be sweating. However,
found somewhere to sleep. That’s where much of
unexpected heat was far from the only surprise
the fun began. After going from hotel to hotel,
Southeast Asia had in store for me.
bargaining to nd a bed for under eight dollars
For three and a half weeks this summer, my
and fuming when quoted a staggering $8.50,
brother Joe and I rode from north to south on
we nally decided on whichever establishment
rented motorbikes, stopping wherever and
boasted air conditioning. We then dragged our
whenever we liked. We encountered more than
sweaty and sore bodies outside for dinner. After
our fair share of idyllic scenery, incredible cuisine
a hearty snack of anything from fried rat to water
and the most unique culture I’d ever experienced.
buffalo tongue, we would pass out and restart the
In one short month, my preconceived idea of the
whole thing the next morning.
country, much of which came from Ken Burns’
One day, while on a particularly dangerous
documentaries and a Top Gear special, was
road, I swerved to avoid an oncoming truck,
obliterated. Needless to say, I hadn’t expected
and subsequently ew out of my seat onto the
many similarities with my hometown of Brunswick,
road. Fortunately, Joe had a bottle of what the
Maine, but I had taken, perhaps subconsciously,
locals call “rice wine,” which we felt more closely
many aspects of my American life for granted. I
resembled gasoline. After using it to “clean” the
was in for a culture shock.
cuts, we cut the toes off socks to create makeshift
As it turns out, Vietnamese trafc lawsdressings. are The real agony followed later, because suggestive, not demonstrative. “Dangerous”
as it turns out, open wounds don’t deal well with
doesn’t describe the chaotic madness of streets
dirt, grime or wind.
inHanoi.Myveyearsofdrivingexperiencehad
Ill-preparedness often bred misadventure. But
built my condence. But motorbiking through those individual adventures had a lasting impact Hanoi quickly beat humility into me and scared
on me. Experiencing the wonderful Vietnamese
something else out. Travelers often refer to
people and culture was where I found the greatest
Vietnamesetrafcasariver,butI’veneverseen a I’ll try to describe them accurately, for reward. river ow in the complete wrong direction. I did the word “resilient” doesn’t do them justice. see hundreds of massive trucks seemingly intent
The people I met were creative, determined,
on ridding their country of innocent tourists on
talented and sometimes reckless. For example,
motorbikes, disregarding lanes, signs and even
somewhere south of Ninh Binh, I passed a smiling
their own mortality. I completely understood
young girl, no older than 10, pedaling her bike to
why other backpackers had nervously smiled and
school. It would have reminded me of myself or
60
Photo by Jack Trapp
“
...the word “resilient” doesn’t do them justice. The people I met were creative, determined, talented and sometimes reckless.
”
my siblings, had she not had two twin brothers somehow balancing on the back spokes, and what’s more, an infant sibling giggling from
girl. Later, I watched an elderly man gingerly putter along with a stack of twelve car tires strapped, bungeed, balanced and perhaps glued to his prehistoric Honda Win. In Saigon, I met the descendants of villagers sprayed with Agent Orange, who, thanks to their parent’s misfortune, lost their ability to walk or sometimes speak. I was exceedingly and repeatedly impressed by the Vietnamese, and perhaps it was due to their uncanny talent for balance, or ridiculously delicious food, but whatever the cause, I look forward to the day I return to the land of the motorbikes.
the basket up front. What terried my overlydeveloped sense of safety, unperturbed the little
61
   Join Us @ GlobalJournalNU
Special Thanks The N.U.in Program GlobalExperienceOfce The School of Journalism Student Government Association The International Affairs Program College of Social Sciences and Humanities
Read More Stories www.globaljournalnu.com