Global Journal Vol 4 Issue 2 Fall 2019

GLOBAL JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL AFFAIRS PUBLICATION

VOL 4 ISSUE 2 FALL 2019

1

Editors

Photographers

Mihiro Shimano

Ahmet Küçükuncular

Amelia Langan

Amelia Langan

Sally Jin

Annie Sigl

Blen Wondimu

Barbara Ferreira

Kristin Terry

Brenna Ransden

Gillian Schlenner

Catherine Titcomb

Lucy Gavin

Jack Trapp

Simone Lamont

Johanna Stackmann

Claudia Bautista

Julia Moore Kayla Mackay

Designers Viviana Camargo Kristin Terry Kathryn Norris

Lauren Baumert Lucy Hoffman Maggie King Marcus Mahtemework Miracle Olatunji Paloma Socorro Taylor Niederland

Cover photo taken by Johanna Stackmann

About Global Journal

Insight to our vision

Global Journal is a Northeastern University International Affairs student-run publication, covering international news, events on campus, study abroad as well as domestic and international co-ops. Founded in 2014 by Madlen Gubernick, Elizabeth Zona and Yasmeen Alhaj, the student group aims to bring the international community together through experiential narratives.

Because being a Northeastern student inevitably implies international interest and awareness, Global Journal encourages students of all disciplines to participate in the student group. Global Journal comprises not only international affairs students, but journalism, political science, business, health education and art students as well.

We believe that as Northeastern students, we are all global citizens with vast international experience: Global Journal gives students the platform to share those experiences with the rest of the community. We hope to inspire students of all disciplines to partake in building international bridges to help promote our global experiences.

Copyright Š 2019 All rights reserved

Letter from the President

This semester has been one of great change for Global Journal. We said farewell to our longtime president, Francesca, and welcomed several new members of the executive board. Every member of the team, both new and returning, has put a great amount of time, thought and passion into creating this edition, which you will undoubtedly see as you read through its pages. As Global Journal expands and transforms, we continue to nd new and exciting opportunities to explore. I cannot wait to witness where this journey will take us.

My time so far as president has inspired me, humbled me and taught me more than I could have possibly imagined. I am constantly impressed by the insight, talent and thoughtfulness shown by our many contributing writers and photographers. Their work truly shows the wealth of experiences awaiting students at Northeastern. Using their experiences - be they Dialogue of Civilizations, co-ops, study abroad, or their own adventures - they have explored the world and travelled outside of their own cultural and intellectual comfort zones.

Within these pages you will nd the mysteries of the Bosphorus, the adventures of Vietnam by motorcycle and the “hyggelig� lifestyle of Denmark. From as close to home as Northeastern to as far away as Australia, our writers have embraced the global mindset and fed their desire for discovery. I hope in this edition you will nd not only some interesting stories, but also the desire for exploration and understanding that our writers have already embraced.

Sincerely,

Caitriona Keane President of Global Journal

Photo by Amelia Langan

Meet the Team Members of the board

Caitriona Keane President Biochemistry & International Affairs Majors From: Suffern, New York

Gabriela Beatham-Garcia VP of Public Relations International Affairs Major, French & Political Science Minors From: Madrid, Spain

Lindsay Lowery Editor in Chief Political Science & International Affairs Major, Security Studies Concentration From: Minneapolis, Minnesota

Mikaela Cole VP of Outreach International Affairs Major, International Security & Political Science Minors From: Huntington Beach, California

Catherine Titcomb Creative Director Marketing & Interaction Design Major From: Burlington, Vermont

Siti Aisyah Social Media Chair Journalism & Media/Screen Studies Major International Affairs & History Minors From: Jakarta, Indonesia

Tiffany Lam Treasurer Economics & International Affairs Major From: Manila, Philippines

Marcus Chen Web Editor Marketing Major, Experience Design Minor From: Taichung, Taiwan

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12 17

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Americas Alaska: Wild & Wonderful Argentina: The Pearl of the Atlantic Diplomats Peace and Diplomacy: Celebrating 74 Years of the UN

28

Europe A Day in the Life of a Student Living in the “Happiest Country on Earth” What’s So Special About Genève?

More Than Just Its Wars and Conflicts Inspired to Act

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32 42

36

40

Africa

The Teacher Becomes the Student A Lasting Connection

46

Middle East Istanbul-Induced Introspection The Cats of Amman

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Asia & Oceania The History of the Instagram Spot Japan: South to North The House of the Rising Sun

10

Photo by Johanna Stackmann 11

Photo by Amelia Langan

Alaska: Wild and Wonderful Story by Amelia Langan, Personal Story

Being immersed in nature is both a humbling

exist in Alaska. We especially lost our grasp on

and awe-inspiring experience that allows us to

time with the fact that the sun didn’t set until

understand our place in this vast world. Last July,

after 11 p.m. and rose around 3 a.m.; this gave us

I traveled to Alaska with my family for two weeks

an abundance of hours in the day to explore the

on what would transcend an ordinary vacation.

wilderness. Our trip commenced with a six-hour

Going to Alaska was a vacation of which I could

bus ride through Denali National Park: 6.2 million

only dream, and when we nally boarded the

acres of untouched wildlife and wilderness. In a

plane to take off to Anchorage, it felt too good

world where our impact as humans is so pervasive

tobetrue–ironically,ourightendedupgetting (and often invasive), Denali is where nature canceled for the next day, so it was too good to be

remains in its truest, rawest form.

true. Nevertheless, we made the chaotic journey

Everything about Alaska was so surreal in

the following day from my home state of New

retrospect, but in the weirdest sense, it all felt

Jersey to the Last Frontier, and the real adventure

normal while we were there. Flying in a six-

began. Coming from the fast-paced lifestyle the

passenger bush plane to a remote peninsula

East Coast cultivates, it felt as if time ceased to

– Katmai National Park – and being only

12

hundreds of feet from wild brown bears seems

mountainous landscapes always in our view never

almost unfathomable to me as I reect on the moved, yet they appeared so dynamic. Alaska’s experience, yet it was nothing out of the ordinary

contrast

in the moment. Oddly enough, the normalcy of

paralleled the calm and chaotic aspects of my life,

everything we experienced made me realize how

further deepening my connection to the nature

incredible the experience was. One of my most

around me.

between

tranquility

and

intensity

memorable adventures on the trip was spending

Nature ignites the spark of adventure that

eight hours on a boat traveling through Kenai

burns within us, and Alaska transformed my

Fjords National Park, along the southern coast

spark into a bonre. From whitewater rafting

of Alaska. Ordinarily, I would’ve been hesitant to

through canyons to riding an ATV through the

disconnect from the virtual world for that long,

Chugach National Rainforest to hiking alongside

but the combination of nature and no service

glaciers, the opportunities for adventure were

ultimately culminated into a day of fascination

endless. I found my place within nature while in

and self-discovery. The interior of the park is

Alaska, and I realized how, in the universe’s eye,

inaccessible by car, so boaters and kayakers are

I am a speck in the world; I, like everyone else,

among the lucky few who can view the glaciers,

am expendable. While this may seem like a dark

for which the park is notorious. Being surrounded

revelation, it instead brought me peace. Being

by glaciers felt as if we were thrown back in time

in the mountains for two weeks made me realize

to the Ice Age; though they were incredibly

how small each of us is in this vast world, which

beautiful, it was bittersweet to view the rapidly

was quite a humbling and awesome experience.

receding glaciers and wonder how much longer

Aside from the beautiful pictures I brought home,

they’d remain. Nevertheless, the day was topped

the greatest takeaway from my adventures in

off with a variety of animal sightings: sea otters,

Alaska is that we are nothing to nature.

harbor seals, sea lions, pufns and orcas. The Photo by Amelia Langan

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The overwhelming Viedma Glacier, photographed in black and white to reveal its breathtaking enormity.

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Argentina: The Pearl of the Atlantic Photo essay by Johanna Stackmann, Personal Story

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An abstract perspective on the beautiful nature in the National Glacier Reserve.

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Further down south, a visit to El Calafate’s infamous Perito Moreno glacier. Throughout autumn, the rainy weather conditions give the monstrous glacier a picturesque blue hue.

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Buenos Aires, the heart and soul of Argentina. A visit to Recoleta Cemetery, one of the most unusual and unique cemeteries in the world. Filled with elaborately carved scroll-work and stately pillars, the cemetery appears more magical than macabre.

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Buenos Aires, with its diversity of European-style architecture has long been called the “Paris of South America.�

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(Left)

(Above)

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Diplomats Story by Kelsea Morshuk-Allen, Co-op

As Americans, we often do not show enough

are fewer and fewer jobs available. Here is my

respect towards those serving us overseas who

conclusion from our conversations: one must

are advancing American interests, helping the

always be able to look oneself in the mirror

most vulnerable populations such as refugees

at the end of the day. For example, during my

and asylum seekers, keeping our citizens safe

time in the Bureau of Population, Refugees,

in times of need of evacuation and facilitating

and Migration, I felt very good about the work

negotiations before wars can even begin: Foreign

I was performing and genuinely felt that I was

ServiceOfcers(FSOs),morecommonlyreferred contributing to aiding refugees. This seems to be to as diplomats. The process to even gain the

an odd concept to people outside of Washington

privilege of being an Ofcer requires a series D.C.of when they understand that this work was tests that most fail an average of three times,

done under the Trump Administration. Where

including a group test, a written test, a personal

I was as an intern in the system allowed me to

story, atop the requirements of foreign language

perform a job to which I was proud to connect my

skills, potentially a Master’s degree and a year of

name as the duties aligned with my moral values.

training. Many in the profession will tell you that

“

FSOs are not only the rst to arrive in a conict

zone, but are the last ones to leave, as conict transformation requires continuous efforts over many years. During my time as a co-op at the U.S. Department of State in Washington, D.C., I had the privilege of getting to interview a number of FSOs. I went into the interviews with questions about their career paths, and what I got were comprehensive responses about how these

FSOs ... have the right of refusal if they do not believe in the mission that a given administration is attempting to pursue...

”

people had chosen to redirect their entire lives

For Foreign Service Ofcers who have taken an

and uproot their families to serve their country. To

oath to uphold the Constitution, carry out the

not treat them with the utmost respect is to not

agenda of the administration and represent the

understand their role in keeping Americans safe.

president,itbecomesdifcultwhentheyhavethe

Part of what I learned from talking to real

opportunity to become the Head of Mission – or

diplomats was that performing their duty is a

an Ambassador – and do not personally believe

matter of understanding how one functions in the

in the policy they are tasked to uphold. However,

machine that is the United States government.

a little-known fact is that FSOs actually have

As an FSO progresses through the ranks, there

the right of refusal if they do not believe in the

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mission that a given administration is attempting

it is right, they do not need to accept the new

to pursue in another country. Diplomats are not

position – which sometimes means exiting the

mindless cogs in the machine; they are not only

Foreign Service. While his time as Secretary of

allowed, but are encouraged, to respond if they

State was short-lived, my work under Rex Tillerson

do not believe in a mission or if they feel actions

demonstrated to me the salience of integrity. I

on behalf of the U.S. are being performed in

remember some of his last words in his goodbye

an unjust manner, so long as that feedback is

speech at the State Department were, “This can

given through the proper, professional channels.

be a mean town … don’t lose your integrity.” And

“

While their job is to advance the National Security Strategy and American interests abroad, in execution this is not done in the robotic, imperial manner some seem to believe.

FSOs don’t.

”

Additionally, FSOs, such as those in management positions at embassies, have the opportunity to create their own missions at post (the embassy).

I know a Management Ofcer who created an initiative to help local women and girls in Ecuador.

Diplomats are able to work under the political ip-opping that occurs from one administration to the next, as their careers can last longer than four to eight years and their duties and skill sets transcend party lines. While their job is to advance the National Security Strategy and American interests abroad, in execution this is not done in the robotic, imperial manner some seem to believe. It is in alignment not just with the National Security Strategy but with what is right morally to them, and if they do not feel

Photo by Catherine Titcomb

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Peace and Diplomacy: Celebrating 74 Years of the UN Story by Lei Nishiuwatoko, On Campus

As Northeastern’s global perspective creates a

goal. The UN’s role in the international experience,

platform encouraging intercultural exchange both

inevitable in this globalizing world, was discussed

on campus and abroad, it is necessary to recognize

alongside students, professors and alumni. 74

the global institutions, policies and culture

years of peacekeeping, international diplomacy

that facilitate and regulate this exchange on a

and constructive steps towards achieving the

global level. 24 October 2019 marked the 74th

UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) were

anniversary of the most prominent international

recognized.

institution in the world, the United Nations, and

The event’s rst panel was on Sustainable

the Northeastern chapter of the United Nations

Development Goal 16: Peace, Justice and Strong

Association of the United States of America

Institutions, which aims to strengthen and hold

(UNA-USA) celebrated. UNA-USA is a grassroots

governments, international organizations and

movement dedicated to mobilize citizens to

other institutions accountable, further making

support and advocate the goals of the UN, and

peace, justice, law and security the new global

UN Day took us one step closer to realizing this

norm. UNA Northeastern President Elina Mariusta,

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Photo by Paloma Socorro

who moderated the panel, started by telling us

Bouchra Benghomari (Class of ‘21, B.S. Cellular/

her adolescent international endeavors, including

Molecular Biology, Global Health) opened the

rsthand institutional injustices in Greece during window of hope as she discussed how crucial the refugee crisis and volunteering in America

UNICEF medical aid is for herself and her Algerian

during Hurricane Katrina. Undergraduate student

community. The importance of the structure and

“

I addressed the socio-cultural aspects of climate change, introducing the topic of the shift from the climate change movement towards the climate justice movement.

�

mission of the institutions themselves was also amplied. Elise Pitcairn from World Boston, an institution that hosts programs and networking events to facilitate citizen involvement, explained the importance of spaces specially designated for global dialogue. However, while such highlevel dialogue is crucial, Professor Risa Kitagawa illustrated how the powerful and policymakers often give leeway to dialogue that formulates new international norms, explaining that such dialogue should mature to include the perspectives of the marginalized and those affected hardest by issues. Not only is socio-cultural inclusion

25

necessary in the international discussion, but

level, between the particle matter concentration

so is a multidisciplinary approach, fourth-year

between Boston transportation stations, and

mechanical engineering student Melissa Rath

on the global level, on how some organisms

concluded. Rath described how global problems

can adapt more easily to global warming than

like climate change can be tackled from the

others. The panelists highlighted the importance

information technology dimension though new

of institutional and corporate intervention, and

technologies, on top of the political dimension.

the recognition of scientic and social aspects

However, while we may see global institutions

climate change to bring about climate justice.

like the UN as responsible for making change, educational institutions and their students also have the resources and opportunities to make change, innately assigning responsibility to our

“

Northeastern student body.

Panelists of different research elds

Climate justice sees the ethical, social and political elements of and climate change...

”

academic specialties found common ground in their passion for Goal 13, Climate Action,

Ryan Kaminski, the Senior Program Manager for

a highlighted topic during this year’s UN

Human Rights at the UN Foundation, and Michael

General Assembly. The diversity of backgrounds

Green, the leader of nonprot Climate XChange

highlighted the global and multidisciplinary

and Northeastern alumni, both illustrated how

characteristic of climate action as it pertains

UNA Northeastern could push our agenda

to environment-scientic elements and socialforward beyond UN Day. Kaminski discussed cultural impacts. As a UNA Northeastern Research

the large-scale problem of climate change as

Fellow, I addressed the socio-cultural aspects of

a human rights issue, focusing on its effects on

climate change, introducing the topic of the shift

different cultures and industries. However, he

from the climate change movement towards the

also proposed tangible solutions students could

climate justice movement. Climate justice sees

take, encouraging UNA Northeastern to map the

the ethical, social and political elements of climate

university’s progress across SDGs. Green shared

change, and addresses the disproportionate

an experience on a Dialogue of Civilizations to

impact on marginalized communities. Riccio

Geneva, where his desire to take part in climate

emphasized her work at the Social Impact

action discussions involved him into cutting

Lab which educates Northeastern students on

through security at the UN headquarters, taking

philanthropy and how to navigate institutions

unaccompanied

to bring about justice. Thornton underlined her

to decode them with his peers in his dorm. He

experience at the Conference of the Parties

now serves as representative to the UN, and

environmental negotiations on the international

was named by President Obama a Champion of

stage. Gibbes, O’Donnell and Helmuth discussed

Change, showing how students have the potential

documents

and

attempting

the relevance of eld work on furthering the for impactful institutional change beyond the climate change movement. They posited a theme

grassroots.

of the disproportionate geographical effects of

UN Day catalyzed conversation for the UN

climate change and pollution on the domestic

mission and SDGs between a diverse group of

26

Photo by Paloma Socorro

individuals.

Moving forward with our mission,

we will take President Obama’s Presidential Speechwriter and candidate for the fourth District in Massachusetts House of Representatives, Dave Cavell’s, message with us. Cavell pushes us youth in change-making positions to persist and to pick ourselves up, even after multiple factors set us back.

“

Students have the potential for impactful institutional change beyond the grassroots.

” 27

28

29 Photo by Marcus Mahtemework

A Day in the Life of a Student Living in the “Happiest Country on Earth” Story by Miracle Olatunji, Study Abroad

Year after year, Denmark has been consistently voted as the happiest country on earth.

in

Frederiksberg,

a

suburban

area

within

Copenhagen. The rooms were studio-style, fully

This is in part due to cultural practices that

furnished with a kitchen and kitchen appliances.

emphasize happiness and the high quality of life

To get my groceries, on the weekends, I’d go

that many people here enjoy. The Danes have a

to a local grocery store called Føtex. I think of it as

cultural practice known as “hygge” (pronounced

the Target of Europe. I beamed with excitement

hoo-gah)Hygge . issometimesdenedas“cozy,”

when I saw Michelle Obama’s book in the store!

but a better denition of hygge is “intimacy.” A On campus, there is also a place to buy food cup of coffee with a friend in front of a replace called the canteen. This is a popular spot for might qualify, or a picnic in the park on a summer

students to go and study, hang out with friends

day.

and go during the break in between classes.

Denmark has such a high ranking on the

Copenhagen is one of the most bike-friendly

World Happiness Report, compiled by the United

cities, so many people ride their bikes to class. If

Nations, because of their focus on reducing

you’re planning to get a bike to rent while you’re

extreme unhappiness and investing in public

inCopenhagenforafewweeks,Swapetsisone

goods for all.

of the most popular and affordable bike rental

However, this comes at a steep cost. Danes

shops/services.Youpayaatfeetorentthebike

pay more income tax than any other nation – as

and they can either deliver it to you or you could

much as 60%. When I spoke to a few Danes about

go and pick it up. At the end of your time renting

this, they mentioned that they don’t really mind

the bike, you bring it back to the shop.

the high tax because the overall well-being of the country and the people living in it is what matters more to them. Denmark is a small country of nearly six million people, and many enjoy a high living standard. Denmark is said to have one of the highest income equality and lowest poverty rates out of any Western nation.

I spent Summer 2 studying in Denmark at

“

Hygge is sometimes defined as ‘cozy,’ but a better definition of hygge is ‘intimacy.’

”

Copenhagen Business School (CBS). CBS is

Most of the buildings were located close to

considered one of the most prestigious business

each other and the architecture was simple and

schools in Western Europe and the world. Danish

beautiful. There was a lot of green space and

students can attend the school for free; however,

plenty of places to study and hang out with

due to the prestige, the school admissions can be

friends both inside and outside of the buildings.

very competitive.

Usually, after class, I’d grab lunch with

I lived in an apartment/residential building called

30

Porcelænshaven

which

was

located

friends.Fortherstfewweeks,wetrieddifferen restaurants around the city and then once

Photo by Miracle Olatunji

Photo by Miracle Olatunji

we identied our favorites, we would decide One of my favorites was one where I purchased between them. My personal favorite place to eat

a beautiful silk scarf for myself and one for my

was Vintage Coffee, which had delicious falafel

mom. The shop manager smiled and asked if I

sandwiches, smoothies, red velvet cake and other

could model them.

options. We still continued to try new places but we quickly found our favorites.

Post-lunch was usually dedicated to studying, mostly at the popular library located on Solbjerg Plads 3.

Afterwards, the rest of the day was usually spent exploring the city and country. My friends

After spending the evenings exploring and eating, it was time for bed and I’d get ready for a new day and new adventures!

Although I was able to establish a routine, each day I got to experience or do something special and unique while in the happy country of Denmark.

and I made a lot of great memories each day. I logged thousands of steps during walks across Denmark – from restaurants in Nyhavn to the vibrant Tivoli amusement park.

Locals were often very friendly. One local saw my friend and I struggle to translate a menu and pointed us to the English menu. We received a lot of great recommendations from local Danes on great places to visit, eat and shop!

In Denmark, there are a lot of accessory shops.

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Photo by Marcus Mahtemework

What’s So Special About Genève?

Story by Marcus Mahtemework, Dialogue

We all have colorful expectations of studying

in Geneva truly animated me in the months

abroad. Whether the charm lies in experiencing

leading up to my trip while setting the stage for

native cuisine, absorbing the local culture or

my greatest travel story yet. Instead, my time

attempting to speak a foreign language with the

abroad allowed me to delve into the intricacies of

people of the country, most of us welcome the

international law and development policy during

opportunity to study outside the United States

my time researching at the UN, while also gaining

with open arms. Prior to my arrival, I anticipated

more of an appreciation for the work that global

that my time in Switzerland would most likely

organizations do.

be spent as a tourist, rather than as a full-time

It is worth mentioning that my time in

student. My visions of playing soccer in parks

Geneva coincided with the 100th anniversary

with locals, sampling authentic Swiss chocolate

of the founding of the United Nations –

and stepping into the United Nations Ofce formerly named the League of Nations that was

32

established in 1919. It was created as a coalition

While the academic intent of our trip was to

of states that would protect and assist the liberal

explore the issues of disarmament and human

transformation of the international system. After

security, I left Geneva with many intangible lessons.

a century of mediating military conict After and speaking and listening to the honorable organizing humanitarian initiatives, the United

former judge and apartheid activist, Albie Sachs,

Nations has continued growing in stature, while

I found more value in the mantra “Love your

providing its member states with a viable forum

brother.” Likewise, the speakers, which consisted

to address global issues. I still, however, failed

of ambassadors, Nobel laureates and NGO

to fully comprehend the signicance of the UN’s representatives that met with our delegation, undertaking, and what the UN as an institution

all possessed one thing in common: a special

meant to the international community, until after

dedication to ensuring the sustainable growth of

my time abroad.

peoples and nations everywhere. Despite coming

With all this being said, my family did have

from entirely different professional backgrounds,

some familiarity with the United Nations. One of

these individuals collectively motivated me to

my aunts had previously worked for UNICEF as

look beyond my national perspective and to

Chief of Human Resources for Emergencies for 30

embrace my global identity. Over the course of

years. At different family gatherings, she would

my trip, I gained a newfound respect for all the

tell my brother and me about her eldwork with UNICEF to bring immediate relief to war-torn parts of the Middle East or helping state governments formulate response plans to humanitarian crises in Africa. Whenever she told me about her time working in the UN I was always impressed, but not inspired. The important distinction here is that I always found her line of work admirable, but I was never galvanized by these anecdotes to takemyowninitiativeinthiseld–thatis,untilI spent a month in Geneva this past summer.

Geneva is the humanitarian capital of the world.

Photo by Marcus Mahtemework

There is no other city on the planet with such an immense concentration of intergovernmental

work that goes into keeping the international

agencies that are aid or development-oriented.

community more secure. More importantly, I

This is by no means a new phenomenon. Geneva

understood that the greatest asset we have as

has been a beacon of international cooperation

humans is the ability to cooperate. This is what

since the construction of the Palais des Nations

makes Geneva so special. Beyond the city’s

and is a true manifestation of a global city. Those

amazing commitment to humanitarian ideals

that work for the UN and subsidiary organizations

and its hopeful interdisciplinary professional

choose to come to Geneva because they

community, it is at its core, a place that exhibits

recognize the value in creating a safer, more

the best intentions that humankind has to offer.

equal world for people everywhere.

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Photo by Taylor Niederland

More Than Just Its Wars and Conflicts Story by Taylor Niederland, Co-op

food three times a day, visit plenty of museums “You’re co-oping in Syria?! … in Siberia?!”

(including my favorite, the Nikola Tesla Museum),

“No, I’m co-oping in Serbia,” I said, impatient

interact with locals and go on tours where Serbian

and tired of people confusing my co-op location.

tour guides were able to share their perspectives

“You know, it’s an Eastern European Balkan

and knowledge of Serbian history.

country that was formerly part of Yugoslavia.”

Photo by

I also had the opportunity to travel to other

“Oh, that country. I got it confused.”

former

Yugoslavian

countries:

Bosnia

and

I had this conversation with countless people

Herzegovina, Montenegro and Slovenia. Even

after sharing the location of my next co-op.

though these countries have many similarities,

People seemed to have trouble placing Serbia

the visible differences and diversity among them

on the map, even my fellow university students.

surprised me. In Bosnia and Herzegovina, the

It wasn’t until I brought up the former Yugoslavia

large Turkish inuence is almost impossible

that the thought clicked and they accurately

miss. Here, I had the tastiest meal of my life: a

identiedthecountry.

blend of traditional Bosnian and Turkish food. I

Serbia is known by Americans for its wars and

also visited my rst mosque and learned about

conicts. However, it is so much more than that.the country’s rich religious history. In Montenegro, Serbia is rich in culture, food, language, art and

the country’s love for water polo is omnipresent;

history. While living in Belgrade, the capital of

every hundred yards, I stumbled across children

Serbia, I had the opportunity to eat traditional

and adults alike scrimmaging along the bay.

34

y Taylor Niederland

Photo by Taylor Niederland35

Photo by Taylor Niederland

Photo by Taylor Niederland

As for Slovenia, the highlight of my trip was

Two weeks before leaving for Belgrade, my

visiting Ljubljana, its charming and quaint capital.

brother’s close friend mentioned something

Ljubljana is a strange mixture of a small-town

in passing that cemented in my thoughts.

feeling coupled with a diverse group of residents

Previously, he had spent a couple of weeks in

with varying ethnic backgrounds.

Serbia competing with his club water polo team.

“

[To influence others not to visit entire countries] shrinks the potential for knowledge-sharing and perpetuates the intolerance of others.

”

36

Once I informed him of the location for my next co-op, he commented, “Yew! I tell everyone never to go there. I hated it.” After he shared this, I immediately doubted my decision to co-op in Serbia. I questioned if Belgrade was the right city for me and if I would be safe as a single female because of his remark.

Now, after having lived in Serbia for three months, I realize the fallacy of my brother’s friend’s comment. I am sure the media’s portrayal and the typical rhetoric surrounding Serbia and

Photo by Taylor Niederland

other former Yugoslavian countries played a

that of my brother’s friend. I will strive to share

role in developing his opinion; well that, along

the beauty of former Yugoslavia with as many

with his team’s harsh loss to the Serbs, shaped

people possible in an effort to convince people

his negative perspective. However, this doesn’t

how Serbia, along with its neighboring countries,

entitle one to inuence others not to visit entire is morethanjustitswarsandconicts. countries. To do so is harmful, as it shrinks the potential for knowledge-sharing and perpetuates the intolerance of others. We should encourage travel to foreign countries, especially when the culture varies tremendously from our own.

We should be pushed outside of our comfort zones because this discomfort broadens our perspective and enables individuals to become more accepting of others.

My aim is to minimize the number of people inuencedbyindividualswithsimilarmindsetsto

37

Inspired to Act Story by Nile Drochak, Dialogue

As I shoved my unfolded clothes into my

me back home enticed me to help a stranger. To

suitcase and snatched my passport while rushing

me, a true act of charity means to give without

out the front door for the airport, I thought, “Wait,

receiving anything in return. As she came towards

where exactly is Bosnia and Herzegovina? And is

our table, I thought, “This is an opportunity to

it one or two different countries?” At the time, I

make someone’s day better and my actions will

did not know that my rst time in Europe would not be rewarded.” I reached across the table belledwithinspiringexperiencesandlessons. to give her money. With a smile, she kissed the Early in the trip, as we made our way through

coins, pointed toward the clear sky and gave me

the streets of Sarajevo, we decided to have

a blessing in a language I did not understand. As I

lunch at a café with trees and plants inside.

sat there thinking about what had just happened,

While waiting for our food, an old woman was

wenishedourfoodandheadedbacktothehotel

asking people inside the café for spare change. I

to learn about politics and war in the Balkans.

reached for my pocket for anything I had at that

The ethnic war between Bosniaks, Croats

moment and prepared to help this woman as

and Serbs in the 1990s destabilized the region,

she made her way around the café. Being away

suspending the Balkans in conict created

from home, halfway around the world, the fact

by negative peace. While positive peace is a

that my act of charity couldn’t possibly follow

proactive process which requires the efforts of the

Photo by Barbara Ferreira

38

Photo by Annie Sigl

people and government to restore relationships

refugee camp that housed migrants seeking

and promote future cooperation, negative peace

asylum, most of whom came from the Middle

is simply the absence of conict. In places with East. As we passed, I felt uncomfortable because negative peace, like the Balkans, tensions remain

we were mere onlookers but I wanted to have

and the eruption of violence is possible.The most

some sort of human interaction. My mind was

infamous event during the war was the Srebrenica

overwhelmed and scrambling for ways to do so,

genocide where more than 7,000 Bosniak men

and I felt paralyzed. “After everything you learned

were ethnically cleansed by Serb forces despite

about passivity, how can you just stand there?” I

the United Nations being assigned to protect

thought. I was inspired by a fellow classmate who

them. The UN misjudged the scope of these

initiated a conversation with the refugees in the

events and their inaction allowed the Serbs to

camp. Sometimes taking a small step can open

continue perpetrating these acts. Consequently,

the door for greater action. Experiences like this

I have come to realize that evil does its best work

taught me that it is important to use logic to solve

when we don’t believe it exists.

problems but that your heart can also be a moral

The tension between ethnic and political

guide on how to act. So ultimately, having the

groups that was furthered by the war still exists

courage to follow your heart is what’s important.

today. To move toward a peaceful future, mending

From being unable to locate Bosnia and

relationships should be based on the future

Herzegovina on a map to having these valuable

rather than the past. We should think about the

experiences and lessons in the Balkans, this

possibilities for cooperation rather than trudge

trip helped me grow into a better person at an

in past mistakes because trying to move forward

exponential rate. Although my trip may have

with the past in mind can lead to future conict ended, the responsibility to take action and do and tense relationships.

the right thing is far from over.

Toward the end of our trip, we visited a

39

40

41 Photo by Lauren Baumert

Photo by Nikki Roche

Photos by Julia Moore

The Teacher Becomes the Student Story by Julia Moore, Dialogue

“Will you be our teacher?”

When I arrived at St. Anne’s Family Home

A little girl had grabbed a book and handed

in Ghana, it was clear that it was a place where

it to me. I looked at her and my face lit up. There

community was strong and unwavering. While

are a lot of opportunities to make connections

interacting with the kids, a group of rst grade

with people from a completely different culture

girls came up to me and pulled me into their

when you’re abroad, but this moment in the

classroom. The teacher was not there at the

classroomwasmyrst.

moment, so the students were scattered around

42

the desks haphazardly while they wrote, looked at

The classroom was only the beginning. I

books or chatted. I talked with them for a bit, but

taught a hygiene class at St. Monica Girls High

at times I didn’t know what to say. I hadn’t had

School, and this class was rewarding because

many interactions with young kids at this point in

the students had so many interesting questions;

the Dialogue, and I didn’t know what to talk to

their nervous laughter was overpowered by their

them about. To my relief though, every time I ran

curiosity to learn. However, the most meaningful

out of words the students would quickly jump in,

interaction began when we all went outside after

asking me about my favorite foods and laughing

classes. Suddenly all the girls were dancing, and

when I told them I loved Jollof and chicken. That’s

unfortunately for me, I am a horrible dancer.

when the girl approached me and asked if I would

I really can’t move my hips separately from my

be their teacher. I felt honored she had thought

body, and this proved to be quite amusing for

of me as being able to be a teacher, especially

everyone. The girls I was with were happy to

because I later met her actual teacher, and he

show me their moves, and I would try my best

seemed extraordinarily passionate and invested

to imitate them, but most times everyone would

in all the students. I took the book and told her

just laugh and show me again slower. It’s funny

that I could not be her teacher, but that I would

that they thought this would help. At rst I was

love to read with her. She smiled and nodded.

embarrassed; I don’t get embarrassed easily,

I held the book open and as we read, everyone

but they were really laughing and I could not

from the crowd took turns yelling out the words

make my moves better no matter how hard I

they knew. Even though it was nothing dramatic,

tried. However, looking around me, I realized

this moment reminded me of the love of learning

they weren’t laughing at me because I couldn’t

that can be fostered through education, and

do it; they were just amused by my lack of ability

how much these kids valued their time in the

and they wanted so badly for me to learn. It was

classroom, even without a teacher. They were

severely hot outside and I was sweating buckets,

so excited to show me how much they knew,

but I danced and danced and we laughed until

and all I could think about was how everything

we forgot about the heat and discomfort.

I was feeling at that moment was truly pure and

This was a really unique experience for me

genuine.

because they shared a part of their culture with

“

me outside the classroom and we bonded on a

By the end, I had learned a new array of dance moves; more importantly, I knew everyone around me by name and who was the best dancer.

”

level without words. By the end, I had learned a new array of dance moves; more importantly, I knew everyone around me by name and who was the best dancer. This experience pushed me out of my comfort zone while giving me a chance to grow and experience teaching on my own, even if it was only for an hour. It pushed me from being an outsider who was just visiting, to someone who was hanging out with these girls and communicating with them through a medium that they loved and were sharing with me: dance.

And it all started in a classroom.

43

A Lasting Connection Story by Kayla Mackay, Dialogue

This past summer I was fortunate enough to

to know everything about me and forced me to

attend the Social Enterprise and Micro-Consulting

board the bus last, even having her mom get

Dialogue in Cape Town, South Africa. It was

my number before we left for the day. She told

a trip that allowed us to work with and consult

me numerous times that I “couldn’t forget her,”

local entrepreneurs from the area and learn more

and because of the connection we made, I can

about the social and economic issues impacting

genuinely say that I won’t. Over the course of

Cape Town today.

my month in Cape Town, I learned that in order

Our professor asked us one morning in class,

to truly make a positive impact on someone’s

“So it rained last night, what are we going to do

life, you have to put yourself in their shoes, ask

about that?” To me and many other students, we

questions, understand their perspective and,

didn’t think twice about the rain other than having

most importantly, be kind.

to grab an umbrella before walking out the door.

“

Being present and giving your attention to theTownshipsthathadooded,ruiningfurniture those around you can and affecting the living situation of many families. have a lasting impact on Wespenttherstminutes 03 brainstormingwhat we could do as a group to raise money for those an individual.

He went on to say that with all the rain Cape Town

had gotten the night before, there were homes in

”

in need and our professor reached out to the Red Cross to take action and learn more about the

I had a number of friends tell me that they

impact of the storm. From our professor and the

had been to Cape Town and loved it. However,

various individuals we met on my trip, we learned

reecting back on the trip, I don’t think any of

how to be more aware of our surroundings and

them have truly been to Cape Town. They didn’t

to consciously practice generosity whenever

interact and spend time with the community

possible.

members, travel into the Townships or get to

That being said, at times throughout the

know local business owners. It was giving my time

program I struggled to understand what impact

and making connections with people along the

I was having on the various organizations we

way that allowed me to gain a new perspective

visited. Yes, we made donations, but I didn’t feel

of South Africa. I’ve come to the realization that

like I was there long enough to make a difference.

regardless of where you travel around the world,

I slowly began to realize that being generous

it’s the people you meet and spend time with

doesn’t have to mean tangibly giving. Being

that truly make the experience memorable and

present and giving your attention to those around

impactful, on both sides.

you can have a lasting impact on an individual.

While visiting a Surf Outreach program, one little girl, Mila, would not leave my side. She wanted

44

Photo by Kayla Mackay

Photo by Lauren 45 Baumert

46

47 Photo by Lucy Hoffman

Photo by Lucy Hoffman

Istanbul-Induced Introspection Story by Ahmet Küçükuncular, Personal Story

Never before has leaving a place behind

or Kostantiniyye. It has witnessed the rise and fall

saddened me more than when I left Istanbul in

of kingdoms, empires, sultanates and republics

July after my brief yet mesmerizing stay. Even

and withstood wars, crusades and conquerors.

the notion of not being able to open my eyes

All that remains now is Istanbul; simple, albeit

to the view of the Bosphorus the next morning

exceptional, Istanbul.

nearly convinced me to miss my ight; surely

After the hassle of work, I checked into my

self-sabotage is validated if it gives rise to a view

hotel in Arnavutköy. There I spoke with the hotel

to be remembered, a smell to be reserved and

concierge. On my taxi ride, I had been too invested

tastes to be savored.

in reading my bite-sized evening newsletter on

I came to appreciate Istanbul as a world of its

my phone to notice the places I had passed. Only

own. Spanning Europe and Asia, it is much more

when the car stopped did I realize the proximity

than a mere bridge or a city that never sleeps. It

of the water, the paralyzing breeze mixed with

is much more than Byzantium or Constantinople

the scent of the sea, a common characteristic of

48

islands. It was then that I learned the history of

engage in political conversations with the locals

the town I was in and the myth of the strait which

which, I will not deny, was what initially was on my

divided the two continents

mind. I had looked forward to asking a few people

Like many other things in this world,

about their thoughts on the government, the coup

Bosphorus has its fair share of Greek mythology.

d’état attempt a few years back, their take on the

According to legend, Hera, the goddess of

recent mayoral elections and so on. Too taken

marriage, suspected her husband Zeus, the king

aback by the Bosphorus, I never did any of those.

of the gods, had a relationship with a mortal

I still wonder why that was the case. How could a

woman named Io. To protect Io from Hera’s

sight be so simple, yet so spectacular, that I was

wrath, Zeus turned Io into a cow, and she crossed

rendered speechless and useless throughout my

the strait to the Black Sea. During her escape,

stay? How could an unpretentious, natural strait

shemetPrometheus,thetitanwhostolerefrom draw me to it for hours from when I returned the gods and gave it to humans. Thus, the strait

to the hotel until I went to bed? Perhaps most

acquired the name Bosphorus, literally meaning

importantly, how could a simple, unassuming

“ox passage” or “where the cow passes.”

body of water instigate such a signicant self

Once home to various dignitaries in the

reection? Did I simply need introspection and

Ottoman era, the neighborhood I was in –

happen to be at the Bosphorus, or does it,

Arnavutköy – was now a tribute to what it once

along with its surrounding houses and greenery,

was and “yals” (mansions constructed along possess mysterious powers to inict the sam the water) adorned the coast. The houses had

phenomenon in everyone? It has been months

an almost magnetic effect. According to the

now and I still don’t know why I haven’t been able

concierge, Arnavutköy was a place for all: Muslims

to stop looking at that magnicent view. Take

had their mosques, Christians had churches

a look at some of the photographs I took, put

and Jews had synagogues. Even now, it was

yourself in my shoes; had you been there, think if

bewildering to hear the distant echoes of minarets

you would have been able to stop looking at that

calling to prayers and church bells tolling, at times

magnicently picturesque and yet somehow stil

simultaneously. By this time, I was already sipping

mysterious body of water...

my second cup of Turkish coffee, listening to the concierge and hoping that a ock of in-checkers to the hotel was nowhere near imminent. It was nearly midnight and, partly because of the coffee, I listened to his brief lecture on the history of the neighborhood and district and his list of mustsee places: some cafés, a few restaurants by the seaside, two museums, a square people went to catchshandajoggingroutebytheshoreIused the very next morning.

Rarely before had I felt so calm and carefree.

Anyone who follows the news and has an interest in Turkish politics, like myself, would expect to

Photo by Ahmet Küçükuncular

49

The Cats of Amman Story by Maggie King, Co-op

My home in Amman was on the top of a hill,

I nished my trek up the hill. The mystery of the

like at least half of the houses in the undulating

cats’ chunk was solved and my love for the city

landscape of the city. “Right off the Seventh

deepened.

Circle, then go to the supermarket and make two

I could feel my phone buzzing in my bag as

turns,” I would instruct my taxi drivers in Arabic,

my boss spoke to me. I thought, “Who would call

paying careful attention to make sure they

me during the day?” I nodded at his instructions

weren’t taking a long route. Once a week, I would

and slipped into the bathroom as soon as I could

navigate those two turns on foot, walking down

to make sure there wasn’t an emergency. It in

tothesupermarkettolluponmybread,cheese fact was not a call, but dozens of texts from my and pomegranates for the week. Then I’d trudge

roommate. At least 20 photos of the cutest kitten I

back up the hill, out of breath with the weight of

had ever seen, interspersed with heart eye emojis

my groceries by the time I reached the turn at

and a long voice message asking if I wanted a

the bottom of the hill. I always made sure to look

new kitten as a roommate. One look at the

over at the two dumpsters on the corner: stinky,

kitten’s uffy ears and I immediately understo

overowing and home to a surprisingly chunky his urgency to message me at work. I responded

“

But it will never be my city. It will always belong to the cats.

”

in all caps. Two days later, he was ours. We named him Natuf though we called him “habibi,” or “darling,” so much he probably thought it was his name. We danced around the house with him in ourarms,layontheoorforhourswatchinghim sleep and took hundreds of photos. Natuf was

family of street cats. They typically lay lounging in

ofciallythecutestcatinJordan,andarguablythe

the sun, offering a lazy hiss if I walked too close. I

most spoiled. He lived his entire life in our little

loved them. And I wasn’t the only one. As I walked by one evening after work, readying myself to power up the hill, a car pulled over next to the dumpsters. I watched as a man dressed in a suit exited, carrying a large bag. The cats began to circle him, mewing loudly. He proceeded to pull several butcher packages out of the bag, carefully unwrapping the cuts of meat and placing them on plates he spread across the back of his car.

He sang to the cats as he placed the feast on the ground. They purred; he sang. Full of joy. He got back into his car, his evening task complete and

50

Photo by Maggie King

Photos by Maggie King

apartment, occasionally joining us for an evening on the balcony for a little fresh air. He meowed at the street cats below. I felt like they were talking to each other, sharing secrets about their city and the people that they allow to live there. When I left my co-op in Amman in December, I held him in my arms and cried.

I returned to Amman two months later on a study abroad program. I would stay in the city for only four weeks this time. I visited Natuf on my second day there. He purred. I convinced myself that he remembered me. I sat at my old kitchen table with him on my lap, scooping labneh onto bread and catching up with my former roommate.

I slipped Natuf scraps of bread as we ate. On my way out, I stuffed some extra food in my pocket.

As I walked past the dumpsters, I stopped to disperse it to the cats. I convinced myself that they, too, remembered me. Amman is a city I will always long to return to. But it will never be my city. It will always belong to the cats.

51

52

53 Photo by Brenna Ransden

Photo by Carolina Ramos

The History of the Instagram Spot

Photo by First Last

Story by Carolina Ramos, Study Abroad

Anyone that visits or lives in Melbourne,

dips that were offered. The place was beautiful

Australia, is familiar with the Queen Victoria

to me, and it immediately became one of my

Market. Centrally located in the city’s downtown

favorite spots in the city.

area, Queen Victoria Market, or Queen Vic

Queen Victoria Market also offers special night

as some kindly call it, is one of the city’s most

events where endless food stands are set up. It

popular landmarks. As the largest open market

becomes quite easy to get lost inside the market,

in the Southern Hemisphere, there is a lot to do

and it is overwhelming to try and choose what

there, and as an exchange student in Melbourne,

type of food you want for dinner. The atmosphere

I’ve come to appreciate this space weekly.

is electric as everyone is pushed together due to

The rst time I visited the market, I was the enormous number of people present, and the amazed by its size. It reminded me of a much larger version of Haymarket that we have in

place vibrates with energy and music.

The magic of Queen Victoria Market lies in

Boston. As I shopped there, my eyes were lled

its visitors: people from all walks of life come

with the vivid colors of the beautifully fresh fruits

together to enjoy the atmosphere. You will

and vegetables, some of which I did not even

encounter families walking around pushing

recognize. People shouted trying to persuade

strollers with their little ones, students rushing

or bargain with you to purchase their items and

to get the best deals, older people who take

I walked around looking for the best deals. As I

their time checking every aisle to get the most

made my way through the crowded walkways to

delicious looking vegetable and tourists who

the indoor part of the market, I was excited by

cannot take two steps without stopping for

the number of free samples of cheese, bread and

a photograph. This vivacious, architecturally

54

Photo by Carolina Ramos

beautiful and culinarily interesting place does not

of Aboriginal Australians. In 2006, the Aboriginal

escape from anyone’s Instagram posts, locals and

Heritage Act was passed, setting out to protect

foreigners alike. Although I visited the market on

places of signicance to Aboriginal people

various occasions, I only came to know its history

in the Victoria area. This means that the Old

halfway through my stay in Australia, and it is

Melbourne Cemetery area cannot be dug into

unknown to the majority of its visitors.

because it would further disrupt and disrespect

“

the Aboriginal Australians buried there. Even with

This vivacious, architecturally beautiful and culinarily interesting place does not escape from anyone’s Instagram posts...

these protections, some people still feel that it is

notsufcient,especiallyconsideringthehisto context of how badly Aboriginal Australians were treated by the Europeans. Meanwhile, others

”

also feel like Queen Victoria Market should be

market has stood tall and has been a crucial part

picturesque, and it gave me pause when I

of Melbourne, undergoing numerous expansions.

learned about it. I had been enjoying a place,

Although it is a beloved landmark, there is some

taking pictures and posting about it on Instagram

controversy around the market. Where Queen

without knowing the full story. This experience

Vic now stands there used to be a cemetery.

made me understand that I can still enjoy Queen

Sinceitrstopeneditsdoorsinthe1860s,the

protected as a historic landmark.

The history of Queen Vic is not the most

This cemetery was the rst one ever established Vic, but I need to know its historical context. in Melbourne, so many people lay to rest there.

When traveling or living abroad, learning the

In fact, the controversy revolves around who

history of the place I am going to is fundamental

is buried there – Aboriginal Australians. This

to better understand the location, its culture and

means that every time that people visit the

its people, adding to my personal growth and

market, they are literally stepping on the graves

experiences.

55

Japan: South to North Photo Essay by Brenna Ransden, Study Abroad

I decided to take the scenic

intricate

natural

landscape,

route to study abroad and

diverse architecture and staunch

go by way of Japan, since I

contrast between the sacred

had an extra month of winter

and secular sphere paint the

break. With preconceptions of

country in an entirely different

sprawling urban landscapes, I

light.

expected weeks of high-tech

Exploring

Japan

from

ramen machines, robots that

south to north, I was able to

deliver sushi directly to my

indulge in the distinct beauty

table and public transport so far

of the country in a capacity

advanced from the MBTA that

often

underappreciated.

In

they can hardly be classieddiscovering the lesser-known as the same thing. While all of

side of the country, I felt

those did occur, it was in fact

compelled to capture it and

the exact opposite that made

share.

me fall in love with Japan. The

56

“

...staunch contrast between the sacred and secular sphere...

�

(Left) From an inscription beside the tree: “Ema, o V tive tablets for special personal prayers and gratitude toward the deities enshrined in Meiji Jingu Shrine …

Hung around this divine tree with your wishes written on the reverse side, these Ema are offered at Mikesai, the morning ceremony held every day, and your supplications are conveyed by the priests.”

Meiji Shrine, Tokyo

“

Wafting the incense smoke is said to cure any ailments visitors may have.

” 57

Naha, Okinawa

(Right) Isolated from the main islands of a J pan and influenced by the hea y

merican

presence due to the military base,

ina a’s

architecture is unli e any other part of

apan.

“

When stones would fall into the caves, they would make a sound similar to ‘gangala,’ hence its name.

”

Valley of Gangala, Nanjo, Okinawa

Located

near

the

southern tip of the island of Okinawa in the East China Sea, the Valley of Gangala consists of limestone caves buried in an ancient forest.

58

Fushimi Inari Taisha, Kyoto

Over 1,300 years old, Fushimi Inari Taisha enshrines the Shinto Deity Inari. Originally the god of rice, Inari also represents business prosperity and safety in modern interpretations. A series of shrines are scattered along Mount Inari, connected by trails of vermillion gates.

Three Japanese Macaque Monkeys sit atop a shelter on Mount Arashiyama overlooking the city of Kyoto.

Arashiyama Monkey Park, Kyoto 59

The House of the Rising Sun Story by Jack Trapp, Personal Story

Myrstthoughtwas,“Christ,it’sHOT!”Indeed, it was, as my phone indicated the temperature to be 33 degrees Celsius, which roughly translates

gripped their rosaries when I told them about my plan.

Every day was entirely unique because we

to a thousand degrees Fahrenheit. As my dad

didn’t have a specic itinerary or plan. We rode

had repeatedly warned, Vietnam would be wet;

until we couldn’t feel our bruised tailbones and

when it wasn’t raining, I’d be sweating. However,

found somewhere to sleep. That’s where much of

unexpected heat was far from the only surprise

the fun began. After going from hotel to hotel,

Southeast Asia had in store for me.

bargaining to nd a bed for under eight dollars

For three and a half weeks this summer, my

and fuming when quoted a staggering $8.50,

brother Joe and I rode from north to south on

we nally decided on whichever establishment

rented motorbikes, stopping wherever and

boasted air conditioning. We then dragged our

whenever we liked. We encountered more than

sweaty and sore bodies outside for dinner. After

our fair share of idyllic scenery, incredible cuisine

a hearty snack of anything from fried rat to water

and the most unique culture I’d ever experienced.

buffalo tongue, we would pass out and restart the

In one short month, my preconceived idea of the

whole thing the next morning.

country, much of which came from Ken Burns’

One day, while on a particularly dangerous

documentaries and a Top Gear special, was

road, I swerved to avoid an oncoming truck,

obliterated. Needless to say, I hadn’t expected

and subsequently ew out of my seat onto the

many similarities with my hometown of Brunswick,

road. Fortunately, Joe had a bottle of what the

Maine, but I had taken, perhaps subconsciously,

locals call “rice wine,” which we felt more closely

many aspects of my American life for granted. I

resembled gasoline. After using it to “clean” the

was in for a culture shock.

cuts, we cut the toes off socks to create makeshift

As it turns out, Vietnamese trafc lawsdressings. are The real agony followed later, because suggestive, not demonstrative. “Dangerous”

as it turns out, open wounds don’t deal well with

doesn’t describe the chaotic madness of streets

dirt, grime or wind.

inHanoi.Myveyearsofdrivingexperiencehad

Ill-preparedness often bred misadventure. But

built my condence. But motorbiking through those individual adventures had a lasting impact Hanoi quickly beat humility into me and scared

on me. Experiencing the wonderful Vietnamese

something else out. Travelers often refer to

people and culture was where I found the greatest

Vietnamesetrafcasariver,butI’veneverseen a I’ll try to describe them accurately, for reward. river ow in the complete wrong direction. I did the word “resilient” doesn’t do them justice. see hundreds of massive trucks seemingly intent

The people I met were creative, determined,

on ridding their country of innocent tourists on

talented and sometimes reckless. For example,

motorbikes, disregarding lanes, signs and even

somewhere south of Ninh Binh, I passed a smiling

their own mortality. I completely understood

young girl, no older than 10, pedaling her bike to

why other backpackers had nervously smiled and

school. It would have reminded me of myself or

60

Photo by Jack Trapp

“

...the word “resilient” doesn’t do them justice. The people I met were creative, determined, talented and sometimes reckless.

”

my siblings, had she not had two twin brothers somehow balancing on the back spokes, and what’s more, an infant sibling giggling from

girl. Later, I watched an elderly man gingerly putter along with a stack of twelve car tires strapped, bungeed, balanced and perhaps glued to his prehistoric Honda Win. In Saigon, I met the descendants of villagers sprayed with Agent Orange, who, thanks to their parent’s misfortune, lost their ability to walk or sometimes speak.

I was exceedingly and repeatedly impressed by the Vietnamese, and perhaps it was due to their uncanny talent for balance, or ridiculously delicious food, but whatever the cause, I look forward to the day I return to the land of the motorbikes.

the basket up front. What terried my overlydeveloped sense of safety, unperturbed the little

61

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