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global garbs A SUSTAINABLE FASHION MAGAZINE Issue 4 | Summer/Fall 2021

HOW TO BUILD YOUR SUSTAINABLE WARDROBE

THE TRANSPARENCY ISSUE

With GoodOnYou

THE IMPORTANCE OF BUYING FAIR TRADE

GLOBAL GARBS Editor-in-chief Lauren Tanaka-Fortune

In partnership with

Editorial Marketing

Contributors & Interviews

directory

LIFESTYLE

SUSTAINABLE ESSENTIALS: THE HOME EDIT

LEADING BY DESIGN How solar brand SOLIOS is saving batteries and the rainforest one watch at at time.

SUMMER TO FALL ESSENTIALS Wear now and wear later

LAYERING STYLE GUIDE

FOUNDER INTERVIEW

with Washed Ashore

Sandra Coppeni of GoodonYou app

EDUCATION 23

REDUCING CO2 IN FINE JEWELRY With Washed Ashore

THE IMPORTANCE OF FAIR TRADE By Adila Kokar of The Good Tee

TRANSPARENCY IN PRICING By Daniela Milosheska of Bastet Noir

TRANSPARENCY IN FASHION in partnership with GoodOnYou

42 EAT. DRINK. SHOP CONSCIOUSLY - HONG KONG EDITION

HOW TO BUILD A SUSTAINABLE WARDROBE + GOOD SWAPS in partnership with GoodOnYou

INTERVIEWS BUILDING A SUSTAINABLE FASHION APP

An interview with founder SANDRA CAPPONI

AALIA MAURO Blending tech + fashion to create Verte Mode

THE NEW INFLUENCER An interview with Benita Robledo of Style Crush

LIFESTYLE

the

HOME EDIT

Home is where we spend the most time (especially these days), so why not ensure your home is not only clean, but you fill it with essentials that bring a sense of calm, natural cleanliness and joy.

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THE PERFECT CERAMIC VASE

The moment you pick up one of Katie Mudd's products you know you’re holding an exceptional quality hand made ceramic piece. Designer and ceramist Katie Mudd (yes, that is her real name) is based in Portland, Oregon and hand makes each piece with exceptional care so it’s ready for a lifetime of use. White Stoneware Bud Vase, $40 Buy it here!

START YOUR 'CLEAN' CLEANING ROUTINE

Everything you need to start your new all natural cleaning routine, for the best value! The complete home bundle set comes with all your cleaning essentials and suite of refillable glass bottles in your choice color. Plus use code CLEANCULT20 for 20% off your first order. www.cleancult.com

THROW ANYWHERE THROW

Their irresistibly soft Windowpane Jacquard throw is cozy, breathable and the ideal companion for all seasons and provide you the warmth and comfort you love in your sanctuary. Jaquard Check Throw $125 www.loomahome.com

START YOUR DAY RIGHT

Create a natural and sustainable morning routine. This beautiful collection is curated with the best plastic swaps to start your date off on the right foot. The Morning Routine Box, $65 www.earthlove.co

BASKET WALL ART

These beautifully intricate wall plates are designed to enhance and magnify any room. Leave the sweetgrass plate as a standalone piece or pair with other plates or bowls to transform your space. Each of these breathtaking designs was made with courage and heart by a woman in rural Rwanda. 27" Extra Large Modern Woven Wall Art Basket $260 www.accompanyus.com

THE PERFECT SOOTHING CANDLE

Seductively soothing yet complex with sweet top notes of coconut almond milk infused with subdued masculine touches of warm sandalwood, teakwood, and smoked tobacco. Elegant and buttery smooth but elevated with the herbacious fresh sage. This cult-classic scent sets the mood from morning to moonlight. Handmade & assembled in Los Angeles, CA Hand-poured Fragrance Oils and American grown soy wax Reusable glass vessel made in the US - find out how here. Cotton, lead-free wick for a clean burn

N°07 SMOKE MILK LAIT www.shoplait.com starting at $12

PRISM LUMBAR PILLOW - SPRUCE

This hand-stitched pillow is crafted from super soft organic cotton. The subtle embroidered design is classic and modern. It will add warmth and texture to any room in your home. • 100% GOTS Certified Organic Cotton • Sham crafted in Ajmer, India Prism Lumbar Pillow - Spruce, $85 www.madetrade.com

SIMPLISTIC FAIR TRADE

• DUVET A classic triangle design compliments any modern home. This soft and durable single-layer cotton duvet has internal corner ties and exterior tie closures.

100% GOTS Certified Organic Cotton • Handcrafted in Ajmer, India Triangle Duvet Cover, $350 www.madetrade.com

LIFESTYLE

summer to fall

transitional pieces to wear year round

THE MINIMALIST WATCH

The SOLIOS solar watch combines aesthetic, green technology and durable materials. In addition to promoting slow fashion with style, you'll never have to change your battery with the solar cell’s ability to recharge itself and offers a 6month energy reserve. AVAILABLE ON SOLIOSWATCHES.COM

THE CLASSIC NECKLACE This Washed Ashore necklace is timeless and true classic piece of jewelry meant to last a lifetime. Made from 100% recycled metal which is 98% fewer emissions from regular mined metals. AVAILABLE AT WASHEDASHORE.CO

THE CHUNKY HEEL HILOS is introducing a radically new way to make shoes that blends artistry with performance. By combining the traditional insole, midsole, and outsole of a shoe into a single 3Dprinted platform that embodies the performance requirements of each of these layers within a complete construction. AVAILABLE AT HILOS.CO

THE ONE OF A KIND TOTE KRNACH sources all materials from strike-offs, and fabric remnants, deriving from both textile mills as well as from fashion companies Taking these so-called "scraps" and turning them into one of a kind bags in the most sustainable way possible, by hand, and not in mass production. AVAILABLE AT KRNACH.COM

HIGH RISE WIDE LEG JEANS A nod to trendsetting style in Seoul, this high rise style is a fresh alternative to your skinnies. Sculpts through the midsection and widens out through the leg to a flattering Aline shape. Modern, timeless and versatile. AVAILABLE ON WARPWEFTWORLD.COM

THE MAXI SKIRT Wear this folklore printed maxi from summer to fall. Pair with a light-weight cropped tee during the warmer months or tights and a chunky sweater and boots for the fall. Made with 100% LENZING™ ECOVERO™, and ethically made in Bali AVAILABLE ON TAMGADESIGNS.COM

THE CLASSIC MULE Classic mule with a mic toe and a half inch leather stacked heel for a structured look. 100% hand made with zero heavy machinery. Leather is locally sourced and milled at Salt + Umber's LWG Gold rated sustainable tannery. AVAILABLE ON MADETRADE.COM

wear now or later SUMMER TO FALL JUMPSUIT Meet your next favorite all-occasion jumpsuit. Flowing flutter sleeves and an extra long, nearly floor sweeping pant leg, this jumpsuit is made for a holiday away, or every day. Exude easy elegance with this flowy jumpsuit that is perfect for slow day lounging, busy weekdays, virtual meetings, then dressed up for special moments. AVAILABLE ON MADETRADE.COM

EDUCATION

The Importance of FAIR TRADE It goes beyond just chocolate and coffee

t’s crucial to know what fair trade is and especially that it goes beyond coffee and chocolate, which not many people know about. Did you know that there’s fair trade wine? What about fair trade cotton?

With the development of the Fairtrade organization, a business can become certified if they meet the following core requirements: high standards for social, economic, and environmental processes, in addition to no child or forced labor. This means fair wages for farmers and workers and that the company follows ethical and sustainable business practices.

With fair trade, you’re supporting sustainable development and actively fighting against poverty and exploitation of workers that are often not made aware of their rights. Fair trade is also important for fighting against the power imbalances that exist between businesses and vulnerable workers in developing nations.

3. Fair trade acknowledges climate change and promotes environmental conservation. In particular to conventional cotton, it is vastly

There are 3 reasons why fair trade is so important:

genetically modified, large volumes of water are required, and they continue to use hazardous chemicals which have consequently affected people,

1. Buying fair trade has a

biodiversity, and the planet. By investing in goods made from fair trade cotton, you’re supporting social and environmental costs that are 5 times lower than

direct positive impact on the lives of farmers and workers. I started The Good Tee in 2020 after coming faceto-face with the knowledge of the high suicide rates among farmers. It was heartbreaking to learn that more than 270,000 cotton farmers alone have committed suicide since 1995. Since our inception, it’s been our mission to use only Certified Fairtrade Cotton sourced from farmers in India so that we can offer customers and clients 100% transparency and

that of non-certified GMO cotton farming. Sustainability and social responsibility should be at the core of every decision a business makes. It’s a great feeling to know that customers can confidently shop knowing they are supporting fair products and fair conditions.

confidence in knowing how their clothes were made.

2. Fair trade fuels sustainable development by helping secure the rights of workers. In the fashion industry alone, there has been way too much exploitation of farmers and garment makers.

Adila Cokar is a media-acclaimed, award-winning social entrepreneur and author of the book, Source My Garment – The Insider’s Guide to Responsible Offshore Manufacturing (2019). She has over a decade’s worth of experience in sustainable product development, offshore manufacturing processes, end-to-end management, and business strategy. She is the founder of consulting company Source My Garment, which has become a bridge between fashion brands and garment factories, empowering designers to minimize costs but still sell responsibly made products. In 2020, Adila launched her newest venture, The Good Tee, a fully transparent and Fairtrade cotton-certified basics collection. 26

$ TRANSPARENCY In Pricing

How brands are taking transparency to a whole new level

BY DANIELA MILOSHESKA

EDUCATION

n almost every small business, transparency is something that's rarely being spoken of. As small business owners we tend to leave out this part altogether while building a

brand, never really realizing the importance of it. Being honest, open, and transparent as a label makes your customers trust you and once that trust is established, loyalty follows. Inspired by the True Cost IG series started by Natalie Kay from Sustainably Chic, and in an attempt to help our customers make an informed purchase, our Bastet Noir team decided to have a cost breakdown for every piece we launch on our website. As we reveal the true cost of each item, customers can get a better understanding of what they pay for and just how much each item costs to make from start to finish. So here I'm dissecting that process by showing you the steps involved in how we get to the final retail price.

1. The price of the fabric All of the fabrics we use are deadstock, which means they are leftover scraps cast aside by big fashion labels. Usually these materials are sent to the landfills to either burn or pile up. We buy these

Let's take the Lucia Dress for example. For this model, we use 3 meters of fabric and a meter of that material cost us $12, so the overall cost for the fabric alone is $36.

2. The production price The production price is based on the complexity of the design. Once we hand over the design to our seamstresses, first what they do is work on the patterns. Once the patterns are done, the seamstress that makes them can approximately calculate how many hours it will take her to make a certain piece. From there on, we agree on the production price. Some of the women owned studios we work with form their prices according to the hours they spend on making the piece, while others prefer to work with a fixed flat rate per category. So in this instance, the production price for the Lucia dress was based on a fixed fee determined by the seamstress that made it, which was $35 per piece.

rolls of fabrics and give them a chance for a second life. After we measure a roll, we establish how many meters we have at our disposal. The price we get for the roll is then divided by the meters available to get the price per meter. The price by meter is then multiplied by how many meters it takes us to make an item.

EDUCATION 4. The packaging Every package we use to wrap up the ordered items is made of eco-friendly paper, which is handmade by the women single parents we work with. Once we know the volume of the dress, we make a special package with special dimensions to fit the dress in. We also use a personalized brand tag that is handwritten specifically for every customer. The marketing and packaging material costs us $1.18 exactly. The reason why we use this packaging and not a box like almost every other brand out there is that we want to give as much work to our community as possible and make sure the seamstresses earn extra money from making those pouches.

5. Shipping costs Everything we ship is shipped through DHL Express. The reason for this is that we want to make sure our customer gets the item ordered as quickly as possible and DHL allows us to have an item delivered almost anywhere around the world in 1-5 business days. The price we pay for their service is $30 up to 1kg, which is split halfway between our customer and us. We pay $15 and the customer pays the rest. Now, this is a bit unconventional I know, but the thing is that we don't want to only make a profit. What we want is to offer the best possible customer service to the clients that spend their money with us.

6. Forming the retail price Now the norm in the industry is to have 2 to 2.5 margin, but we usually go with 1.5 to 1.8 and the reason for it is that we do want to keep the prices as affordable as we can, so everyone is able to afford our label. I founded Bastet Noir 5 years ago with the idea to promote and sell Macedonian fashion designers outside of the borders of Macedonia. That concept failed, so two years ago I've decided to turn Bastet Noir into a fashion label that sells custom-made clothing items, selling them online which turned to be an incredible success. IWith more than 500 pieces sold last year all over the world and more than 600 online retailers carrying Bastet Noir's collections. I'm a storyteller, fashion lover, incurable dreamer, and relentless entrepreneur at heart.

Also, our aim is and has always been to support our seamstresses and give them the opportunity to earn more than the industry's monthly average of $300. As long as we are able to pay them fairly, that's all that matters. To be honest, I was a bit hesitant when we launched this. After all, being transparent also makes you vulnerable and a subject to criticism. But I have to admit that doing this was probably one of the best decisions we have ever made. Being completely honest with our customers allowed us to gain their trust, as well as their loyalty and in a world with endless possibilities, there’s no greater feeling than knowing your customers pick you.

THE New

INFLUENCER

In a reoccurring section called "the new influencer" we highlight different content creators + founders to learn how they got started in the sustainable space. Meet Benita, wife, mom (of soon to be two), and former actress turned sustainable entrepreneur for startup Style Crush.

INTERVIEWS

BENITA ROBLEDO @benita_robledo www.stylecrush.co

TELL US ABOUT YOURSELF AND YOUR BACKGROUND. WHO IS BENITA AND WHAT MAKES HER WHO SHE IS TODAY?

Sustainability was a huge part of my upbringing too. Although my family never would’ve thought to call it that. We recycled, we planted trees, we repurposed, we repaired. Like most people of color we did sustainability before it was cool. We did it out of respect for people and things. Whether you could afford to throw things away or not didn’t matter. It was disrespectful to the maker and even to the thing itself to not use it for as long as possible. While I’ve had lots of other powerful experiences, I think these two things have been the driving forces in my life.

WE KNOW YOU STARTED OUT AS AN ACTRESS BUT WHEN DID YOU HAVE YOUR “AH-HA” MOMENT THAT YOU WANTED TO STEP AWAY FROM ACTING AND FOCUS ON SUSTAINABILITY. 59

I don’t know that I’ve EVER had an ah-ha moment. I usually just follow my gut bit by bit doing what feels right as it pops up. Then one day I realize I’m already half way down a new path. It’s very confusing, because most people realize it before I do. I did acting and sustainability side by side for several years, but slowly, I realized acting just wasn’t enough for me anymore. I remember sitting on set and being bored out of my mind, while only the day before I’d been giddy reading the latest reports on the UN Climate Change Conference. I thought to myself, wait why am I working so hard at this job that leaves me bored? That was a big clue right there.

HOW HAS BECOMING A MOTHER CHANGED THE WAY YOU LOOK AT SUSTAINABILITY. I give myself a lot more grace. Before I’d beat myself up for weeks if I forgot my reusable grocery bag or didn’t compost. Now I understand that all things ebb and flow, including my ability to be sustainable. I’ve also come to understand why people don’t practice sustainability all the time. Working a full time job (or jobs) with kids is hard enough. That’s why I focus much more on the 100 companies that contribute 71% of global emissions. Yes, we should all do what we can for the environment, but in order to create the massive shift we need to halt the climate crises we have to take on the big guys.

Photographed by Emma Low

I grew up steeped in three cultures. I lived in South Texas, spent the holidays and summers in Colombia, and traveled extensively through Mexico. I grew up as American, but was also aware that “America” was more than just the United States. This made me realize early on that there are lots of different ways to be in the world. It made me curious about everything! I was always encouraged to question things, to explore, to find answers for myself. This curiosity has fueled everything I do.

INTERVIEWS Of course I do still love practicing sustainability at home, and I love sharing it with my daughter. I’ve found that my experience reusing things really comes in handy as a mom. I can look at an old jar and turn it into a toy I know she’ll play with for hours. I don’t feel the need to run out and buy stuff for her. And because I’ve held off, I see how happy she is with random stuff around the house and I give her more of that. For the last 6 months her favorite bath “toy” is an old plastic pickle jar. We even bought her some actual bath toys recently, but she still goes back to the jar. As a parent we’re constantly bombarded with ads about needing to buy our kids so much stuff. And they love to lay on the guilt that if you don’t your child is somehow going to suffer. It’s hard as a parent to shrug off those messages and give your kid a simple childhood. I want to share with parents that not only is it ok to be eco-friendly and minimalistic, it also has lots of advantages for your child. My biggest guide for this type of parenting is my daughter. She’s much happier with a bucket of dirt and a cup than with some flashing musical toy. We’ve been given those toys and tried them, and her interest doesn’t last. But give her some rocks? She’ll happily play for 20 minutes.

Her fascination with nature also keeps me grounded as to why I work in sustainability in the first place.. When you sit with a baby giggling with joy over a stick you can’t help but fall in love with nature all over again.

WHAT’S BEEN YOUR BIGGEST ACHIEVEMENT WHEN IT COMES TO EITHER BUILDING YOUR BRAND OR SOMETHING IN LIFE YOU HAVE ACCOMPLISHED?

"I GIVE MYSELF A LOT MORE GRACE. BEFORE I’D BEAT MYSELF UP FOR WEEKS IF I FORGOT MY REUSABLE GROCERY BAG OR DIDN’T COMPOST. NOW I UNDERSTAND THAT ALL THINGS EBB AND FLOW, INCLUDING MY ABILITY TO BE SUSTAINABLE."

The thing I’m most proud of is that I’ve created a life that fills me up without burning me out. I let go of the need to hustle constantly or have some sort of outside validation. I love my work, but it no longer defines me. I’m also a parent, an artist, and a woman who loves naps. I’m privileged enough to have this option at all, but it’s also taken a lot of internal work to unhook my self worth from my productivity. I’m really proud that I can now enjoy all of my day, even the un-flashy bits.

WHAT DO YOU FIND MOST INSPIRING ABOUT SUSTAINABILITY? The inherent wisdom in nature and how indigenous peoples have understood it and worked within its systems for centuries. It’s just so cool! The way things so seamlessly co-exist is beautiful to me. Trees talk to each other. Mycelium is the largest organism on Earth. Species are naturally distributed to keep populations in check. Honestly, what’s not inspiring?

WHAT’S THE ONE THING YOU FEEL THAT WE AS INDIVIDUALS CAN DO TO LIVE A MORE SUSTAINABLE LIFESTYLE? Being sustainable isn’t complicated, just use what you have for as long as you can. When you do have to buy something, try to buy it second hand. If all that fails, purchase the highest quality you can afford so you can use it for years.

"BEING SUSTAINABLE ISN’T COMPLICATED, JUST USE WHAT YOU HAVE FOR AS LONG AS YOU CAN. WHEN YOU DO HAVE TO BUY SOMETHING, TRY TO BUY IT SECOND HAND. IF ALL THAT FAILS, PURCHASE THE HIGHEST QUALITY YOU CAN AFFORD SO YOU CAN USE IT FOR YEARS. "

TELL US MORE ABOUT STYLE CRUSH, WE CAN’T WAIT FOR IT TO LAUNCH! HOW DID THE IDEA COME ABOUT? I’m so thrilled to be a part of the formation of Style Crush. Style Crush is an emerging resale platform unlike anything else out there. The concept is the brainchild of Jennifer Mielke, and she brought on an incredible group of diverse women to form its first steering committee and board. Sabra Johnson (@mystyleismybrand), Maggie Greene (@greenstylemags), Zahra Biabani (@soulfulseeds), Jennifer Mielke (@2ndhandstyleccrush) and myself have spent the last few months fleshing out how we can create a resale platform that makes second hand shopping easy, inclusive, and generates wealth for the community instead of venture capitalists. A lot of people avoid shopping second hand because the thought of digging through endless amounts of clothes is overwhelming.

And then trying to find it in your size and budget? Forget it. Might as well just buy it new and save yourself the time and headache. As a busy parent I totally get it. But at Style Crush we want to make shopping second hand just as easy as buying new. That’s why our tech sorts clothes into hyper relevant mini-collections just for you. And our business model is just as revolutionary. Style Crush is the first member-owned, cooperative marketplace in the online resale space. We believe profits should flow back to the people who drive its success. Honestly, I don’t know if I’m more excited about our tech or our corporate structure.

WHAT’S BEEN YOUR BIGGEST WIN OR CHALLENGE? Our biggest challenge so far is getting creative with how to raise funds without having to resort to big investors.

We have some really exciting initiatives coming up for individuals who want to get involved early (and get some great member benefits), so definitely stay tuned. You can join our beta community to keep up with all things Style Crush at www.stylecrush.co.

HOW HAS BUILDING THE BUSINESS DIFFERED FROM BUILDING A PERSONAL BRAND? ANY ADVICE FOR NEW ENTREPRENEURS? For anyone building their own brand or business I’d say take a deep breath and go slow. I’ve seen so many people burn out (including myself) because they think they have to do it all right now. That’s not how real success is built. It’s slow and plodding. It’s the day in and day out commitment to your business. It’s unsexy advice, but it’s the one I’ve seen work time and time again. There’s a saying in Hollywood that it takes 10 years to make an overnight success and I think that’s just as true in every other industry.

Global Garbs - A Sustainable Fashion Magazine