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HOROLOGY DUBAI WATCH WEEK 2019 SPECIALS THE ROLEX AWARDS FOR ENTERPRISE
THE GREATEST PASSPORTS OF THE DECADE
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AUTOMOTIVE FERRARI ROMA
CHARLIZE THERON A REAL-LIFE ACHIEVER
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CONTENTS 18 BUSINESS
Laurene Powell Jobs, Founder and President, Emerson Collective
A closer look at the step taken by Prince Alwaleed Bin Talal’s Alwaleed Philanthropies towards Polio eradication
We explore Breguet’s partnership with the Race for Water foundation and their Odyssey catamaran
The Rolex Awards for Enterprise identifies and rewards those finding innovative solutions to the problems facing humanity and the planet
The Panerai Submersible Mike Horn Edition
42 COVER SOTRY
The real-life struggles and achievements of South African-American actress Charlize Theron
Julia Ibbini’s ‘Symbio Vessels’ is the winner of ‘Van Cleef & Arpels Middle East Emergent Designer Prize 2019’
We dig into how AI is changing the way we live our lives today
An in-depth interview with Jonathan Cheung, Levi’s SVP of Design Innovation We look at the growth of Rothy’s, a San Francisco-based company that has quietly but steadily carved a niche for itself in the world of women’s footwear
A brief review of some of the highlights from the 2019 MBLM Brand Intimacy Study for the luxury goods industry
Richard Mille’s new RM 33-02 is a bridge between Sporty and Classy
A review of Dubai Watch Week 2019 and some of the specials unveiled at the event
The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M ‘James Bond’ Edition
We bring you a selection of four exceptional watches with blue dials
The greatest passports of the decade
The new S8 by Audi is a luxurious performer
The Aston Martin DBX is a bold step into an uncharted territory
Ferrari’s latest Grand Tourer, Roma, is a blend of heritage, style and technology
The Taycan, Porsche’s all-electric, allwheel-drive sports sedan, fulfils Ferdinand Porsche’s vision
“Unsecured Futures” - the world’s first art exhibition to showcase the solo work of a robot-artist
The Bell 525 Relentless VIP helicopter is a perfect blend of high-technology and highend luxury
A brief introduction to the charming capital city of Quebec
Remembering Chef Gary Rhodes, the man behind the celebrity
The Top 10 UAE Menu Trends for 2020
The Rome Cavalieri, a Waldorf Astoria Hotel, is synonymous with glamorous Italian luxury
TUMI X Chris Pratt
UFO, a revolutionary facial treatment device from Foreo
What’s new in the market
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EDITOR’S LETTER T
he Dubai Watch Week 2019 has come and gone, leaving behind some wonderful memories and exclusive launches (p.60). We also introduce four exceptional timepieces with blue-dials (p.66), James Bond’s new Omega (p.64), Richard Mille’s RM 33-02 (p.56) and Panerai’s Mike Horn Edition (p.38). We explore Rolex’s Enterprise Awards (p.34) and meet Julia Ibbini, Van Cleef & Arpels’ Emergent Designer (p.28). Meanwhile, Breitling’s ambassador Charlize Theron graces our cover with her journey to the summit of Tinseltown and her philanthropy (p.42). Another prominent woman to feature is Laurene Powell Jobs, Founder and President of Emerson Collective (p.18). Other philanthropic stories include Prince Alwaleed’s fight against Polio (p.22) and Breguet’s partnership with the Race for Water foundation (p.24). For the global citizen, we present the Passport Index Story, listing the greatest passports of the decade (p.68). We explore the unique Rome Cavalieri Hotel in Italy (p.106) and the charming capital city of Quebec (p.94). The spirit of Rome is invoked in the latest Ferrari (p.80), Audi’s S8 features new driving innovations (p.74) while Porsche’s Taycan (p.84) and Aston Martin’s DBX (p.78) take bold new steps for their brand. Luxury travel goes up a notch with the new Bell 525 Relentless VIP helicopter (p.92). We speak to Jonathan Cheung, Levi’s SVP of Design Innovation (p.48), and find out how Rothy’s managed to carve out a niche for itself in the world of women’s footwear (p.52). Happy New Year!
GLOBAL CITIZEN EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Sunaz Sharaf FEATURES EDITOR Shama Moosa JUNIOR EDITOR Almas Salman COPY EDITOR Sameer Denzi ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR Nidal Ziyad ART DIRECTOR Omarr Khattab CONTRIBUTORS Teresa Esmezyan EDITORIAL MANAGEMENT Alta Verba Media Suite 17, Iridium Building Umm Suqueim Rd, Al Barsha T: + 971 4 395 9982 firstname.lastname@example.org www.global-citizen.com www.issuu.com/global-citizen www.facebook.com/GlobalCitizenMag www.instagram.com/GlobalCitizenMagazine MEDIA REPRESENTATIVE Fierce International Dubai Internet City Business Central Tower A - Office 2803 T: +971 4 421 5455 - F: +971 4 421 0208 email@example.com
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2019 NOV / DEC
A NEW PHILANTHROPIC MODEL
A closer look at Laurene Powell Jobs’ philanthropic entity – Emerson Collective
n one soul, in your soul, there are resources for the world - With those startling words, Ralph Waldo Emerson enlarged our conception of the value of a human life. I read his simple declaration about the reach of human capability as a statement of fact,” writes Laurene Powell Jobs, the Founder and President of the social change organisation, Emerson Collective. “This is what drives us every day. If we’ve helped someone transcend the limits of circumstance and chart a new course for themselves and their families, we know we’re fulfilling our mission.” Laurene Powell Jobs is the widow and heir of Apple’s founder Steve Jobs. She graduated with double majors – in Political Science and Economics - from the University of Pennsylvania in 1985. Following her graduation, she worked for about a year at Merrill Lynch Asset Management and spent three years as a fixed-income trading strategist at Goldman Sachs. She received her MBA from the Stanford Graduate School of Business in 1991. Emerson Collective is the most high profile, and arguably, the most impactful philanthropic organisation Laurene has founded. Laurene began her venture into profile philanthropy in 1997, when she co-founded College Track, a non-profit organisation that works to improve high school graduation, college enrolment, and college graduation rates among “underserved” students. In the past, she has served as a board member of Achieva, a company that created online tools to help students become more effective at standardised testing. Currently, she sits on the board of Conservation International, and Stanford University, while also being on the chairman’s advisory board of the Council on Foreign Relations. She also co-founded Terravera, a Northern California based natural foods procurement and distribution company. Laurene founded Emerson Collective, in 2004 as a social change organisation that uses a broad range of tools including philanthropy, impact investing, and policy solutions to create the greatest good for the greatest number of people. It is named after Ralph Waldo Emerson - the American essayist, lecturer, philosopher, and poet who led the transcendentalist movement of the mid-19th century. Emerson Collective focuses on education, immigration reform, the environment, media and journalism, and health. It uses philanthropy, impact investing, advocacy, and community engagement as tools to spur change in the United States and abroad. When Emerson Collective was established, the grants primarily focused on the education sector, particularly in the disadvantaged sections of society. Even though the Collective has diversified into other areas of interest, education still remains the cornerstone of its work. Lauren’s focus on education has its origins in her own experience growing in an improvised single-parent household. “
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Her father, a US Marine Corps pilot, died in a mid-air collision when she was three, leaving Laurene and her siblings without much money and struggling to make ends meet. School was her one true solace. She was a high achiever, and it gave her the confidence to dream of a brighter future. It enabled her to attend and graduate from two of the most prestigious scholastic names in the US. In the mid-1990s, Laurene tutored 12th-graders at a high school in the Bay Area that was rife with socio-economic tensions. Many of the students came from improvised Black and Hispanic families. The school system barely functioned, leaving its students with little or no hope of making it to college and a better life. Laurene teamed up with a friend and fellow tutor, Carlos Watson, to co-found College Track in the impoverished East Palo Alto community in 1997. The idea was to give talented students, without the resources to attend college, the tools that would make the difference. The co-founders determined early on that they would apply the problem-solving techniques used in for-profit tech companies to solving social problems. This working model would form the blueprint when Laurene established Emerson Collective. Today, College Track makes up one of the core programs funded by Emerson Collective and Laurene is one of its board members. Another example is Anseye Pou Ayiti (APA). Organised in partnership with the global education organisation ‘Teach For All’, it hopes to transform Haiti’s education system by recruiting and training a new generation of Haitian teachers who are also community leaders. Emerson Collective’s Elevation program provides technology-based tools to help teachers and administrators improve the communication gap between them and their five-million-odd English Language Learners in US schools. While these projects work on improving the conditions within the existing system, XQ: The Super School Project, launched in September 2015, is an open call to rethink and redesign the American high school altogether. Comprising more than 10,000 people from all 50 US states and territories, XQ supports dozens of transformative “Super Schools” which are rethinking high-school education in the US. It also provides free and open-source tools and materials for communities to innovate new models of schooling. Laurene co-founded XQ with Russlynn H. Ali, the assistant secretary for civil rights at the US Department of Education under President Barack Obama. Ali was the Managing Director of Education at Emerson Collective prior to taking the helm at XQ. Emerson Collective is the primary funder of the XQ project which has thus far pledged US $115 million to 18 schools across the country. Working with underprivileged students brought Laurene into contact with the undocumented immigrant communities
Laurene Powell Jobs, Founder and President, Emerson Collective 2020 JAN / FEB 15 Photo Courtesy-Nigel Powell
and the challenges they face in terms of education. As a result, the Collective broadened its portfolio to include immigration reform and advocacy. It was a strong advocate of the Deferred Action for Childhood Arrivals (DACA) program initiated by President Obama, which is now being dismantled by President Trump. The Emerson Collective website argues that America needs better, not tougher, immigration laws. It states: “Our legal immigration system is rigid, backlogged, and outdated. Families, businesses, and workers operate under a cloud of uncertainty. Yet instead of fixing the system and acknowledging the contributions of those who are here, we spend a king’s ransom trying to enforce our way out of the dysfunction.” “When immigrants – like all Americans – are able to realise their full potential, everyone benefits. But undocumented immigrants, who make up more than 5% of the US workforce, and their families are forced to live on the economic margins. Their lack of status subjects them to exploitation by employers, blocks them from maximising their skills and developing new ones, and keeps them in perpetual fear of deportation.” In 2016, Emerson Collective launched the Emerson Elemental, to channel funds into the environmental and clean energy space. The initiative is headed by Andy Karsner, who had previously served as the Assistant Secretary for Energy 16 JAN / FEB 2020
Efficiency and Renewable Energy at the United States Department of Energy. The foundation focuses on four areas for environmental improvement: cleaner and more efficient power, water management, sustainable food production, and mobility solutions. Elemental’s ‘Cohort 8’ accelerator programme organised in 2019 added 17 startups to its portfolio of investments, bringing the total to 99 companies. In the power sector, the portfolio supports diverse technologies that range from predicting climate risk for critical assets to democratising access to renewable energy and the green economy. To improve water quality and management, Emerson Collective focuses on targeting technologies that will enhance the water system through decentralised models. Given that global food production is a significant contributor to climate change, Elemental is funding innovations that reduce organic waste and methane emissions. In the sphere of mobility, the focus is on new data infrastructure, better urban design technologies, and supporting low-carbon mobility options such as bikeshare and vehicle electrification. The year 2016 also saw the launch of Chicago CRED, focusing on curbing gun violence in Chicago through counselling, training, and job placements. It is headed by former US Secretary of Education Arne Duncan.
Under its Social Justice banner, Emerson Collective provides conventional funding for innovative models in the fields of food security, civic engagement, criminal justice and social health and well-being. In addition, it also provides multiple layers of resources, including tools, know-how, and network to build capacity. Under Health, Emerson Collective focuses on solutions to improve cancer detection, treatment, and patient experience. Since 2017, starting with the majority acquisition in The Atlantic magazine, there has been an increased investment in media and artists who have similar world-views as the Collective. It has, for example, supported the immigrationfocused work of the artist JR, and was instrumental in bringing Alejandro Iñárritu’s Academy Award-winning virtual reality experience Carne Y Arena to Washington, DC. Being an LLC, instead of a non-profit, Emerson Collective has been able to invest in for-profit startups such as digital bulletin board site Pinterest, podcaster Gimlet Media and phone repair company iCracked, among many others in the fields of art, film, media, journalism, sports, and other creative
ventures. These latter investments have generated criticism and debates as to whether Emerson Collective can be considered a true philanthropy - which is generally understood to be donations made for social welfare from one’s personal wealth or through non-profit organisations. Emerson Collective, based on its activities, falls somewhere between a philanthropic foundation and a venture capital fund. However, Emerson Collective is, in some respects, the pioneer of a new trend in philanthropy, particularly those based in Silicon Valley. Another example being the Chan Zuckerberg Initiative. These entities approach philanthropy not by merely writing cheques but by applying the methodologies that delivered tremendous dividends to their founders in the for-profit arena. Laurene is a woman known to be driven by challenges. She is always looking to bring something new to the table. She is not one to be content with merely writing cheques, but one who insists on making a difference. As an extension of her philanthropic vision, one should not expect Emerson Collective to be any different. 2020 JAN / FEB
Prince Alwaleed Bin Talal, Founder, Alwaleed Philanthropies 18 JAN / FEB 2020
LAST MILE PHILANTHROPY
A closer look at the step taken by Alwaleed Philanthropies towards Polio eradication
lwaleed Philanthropies, which supports and initiates projects around the world in collaboration with a range of philanthropic, governmental and educational organisations, recently donated US $2 million to the Global Polio Eradication Initiative spearheaded by the Bill Gates Foundation. The commitment was made at ‘Reaching the Last Mile’ forum in Abu Dhabi, hosted by His Highness Sheikh Mohamed bin Zayed Al Nahyan, Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi. Alwaleed Philanthropies began over thirty-nine years ago when a young Prince Alwaleed Bin Talal took his first steps as an investor and businessman in Riyadh in the early 1980s. The Prince’s passion for philanthropic work stems from a combination of the culture of giving, which has deep roots in Arab culture, and zakat, Islam’s obligatory duty to give back to the community. As his business grew, so did his philanthropic commitment and work. By 2009, Alwaleed, through his Kingdom Holding Company, was one of the biggest names in global investments, which meant that the pool of funds available for philanthropic activities as well as the scope of the activities was substantial. Therefore, it became necessary to reorganise the philanthropic funds and activities under the umbrella of the Ministry of Social Affairs and renamed Alwaleed Bin Talal Foundation. By 2015, the scope of the foundation’s work had further expanded, and there were three additional philanthropic institutions. These were unified under one shared vision and name – Alwaleed Philanthropies. The philanthropic activities were segregated into three geometrical areas: Local (Saudi), Lebanon and Global. The foundation works to combat poverty, empower women and the youth, develop communities, provide disaster relief, and create cultural understanding through education. Over the past 39 years, Alwaleed Philanthropies, in its various manifestations, has supported and spent more than US $4 billion on social welfare, initiated more than 1,000 projects in over 189 countries, and reached more than 976 million beneficiaries around the world. Alwaleed Philanthropies’ donation of US $2 million to The Global Polio Eradication Initiative (GPEI) is the latest in a long line of strategic and coordinated donations to disease
eradication and is second to support the GPEI following a donation of US $30 million in 2013. In addition to supporting GPEI, Alwaleed Philanthropies has worked with key partners such as Gavi, the Vaccine Alliance, the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation, the Carter Center and UNICEF to tackle such diseases as Guinea Worm disease, river blindness, measles and rubella, amongst other preventable and treatable diseases. Commenting on his foundation’s pledge, Prince Alwaleed said: “Today we have marked an important step in the last push towards a polio-free world. Since 1988 an estimated 18 million people are walking today who otherwise would have been paralysed due to this disease. Donations deliver change, and collaborative efforts deliver it faster and with deeper impact. That’s why I am here today with these renowned partners, calling on others to join us in this last battle to end Polio for good.” GPEI’s ‘Endgame Strategy 2019-2023’ aims to tackle the final obstacles to the eradication of Polio and sustain a poliofree future. The funds raised will support the creation of action plans to expand access to polio vaccination and help reach children in need around the world. It will also help to ensure that the workers and infrastructure developed by the program can support other health needs and development priorities. The GPEI pledging event launched a fundraising push to fill the US $3.27 billion funding gap remaining in the 2019-2023 Endgame Strategy. So far, US $2.6 billion has been raised. Bill Gates, representing the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation, which is one of the leading partners of the GPEI, announced and recognised the first funders of the strategy during the ‘Polio Pledge Moment’ at ‘Reaching the Last Mile forum.’ He also called for more donors to come forward. Reaching the Last Mile (RLM) Forum is a biennial event that convenes global health leaders from government, private sector, philanthropy and academia to share their insights and best practices on how to map out, eliminate and eradicate infectious diseases. Last year’s forum held under the theme of ‘Accelerating the Pace,’ was convened on November 19 in Abu Dhabi. It brought together more than 300 preeminent global leaders who shared their successes, challenges and solutions in their endeavours to reach the last mile in infectious disease elimination. 2020 JAN / FEB
VOYAGE FOR OUR FUTURE
Exploring Breguet’s partnership with the Race for Water foundation and their Odyssey catamaran
he House of Breguet’s President, Marc A. Hayek set an objective for his brand: to take a more active role in protecting the planet. In line with this objective, the brand became a supporter of the Race for Water foundation (www.raceforwater.org) - an organization dedicated to water preservation and to saving the oceans from the threat of plastic pollution. Breguet and the Race for Water Foundation announced their partnership at Baselworld 2018. Inspired by the principles of a circular economy and social entrepreneurship, the Race for Water Foundation seeks to prevent plastic litter from reaching waterways and then making their way to the ocean. It aims to identify, promote and implement solutions that will give end-of-life plastics a value and create new sources of income for the people most affected by pollution. Simultaneously, the foundation’s Odyssey ambassador vessel, is on a five-year around the globe journey to raise awareness of the impact of marine plastic pollution. Water, our most indispensable resource, is under massive threat from plastic pollution in our lakes, rivers and oceans, and therefore, in need of urgent protection. According to the United Nations, plastic debris accounts for around 80 per cent of the total accumulated garbage in the world’s oceans. Plastics dumped into the rivers not only pollute a freshwater source but will eventually be carried into the ocean, if not recovered. Once in the ocean, plastics follow the oceanic currents and often end up on beaches or in one of the great oceanic gyres. Although Plastics generally do not degrade, they do break up into micro
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or meso debris while in the oceans, which are then consumed by marine animals and birds. This leads to plastic entering the food chain and has caused the deaths of innumerable animals. The Race for Water foundation was established by Swiss entrepreneur Marco Simeoni in 2010 to support scientific research on the ecological condition of our oceans. In 2015, the foundation undertook the Race for Water Odyssey aboard a racing trimaran. The objective: to make an initial analysis of the plastic pollution in the oceans and to determine its effect on human populations. They reported that the plastic on the surface of the oceans represented less than one per cent of the plastics in the ocean. Simeoni said: “We very quickly became aware that the solution was on land. Combined action is essential in preventing plastic waste from reaching the waterways and the oceans through the development of sustainable social models and business models that inspire its collection. It is vital that we take action!” The foundation launched a new five-year world tour on a 114-foot catamaran called Odyssey - the world’s largest vessel to be powered solely by renewable energies. The main objective here was to raise public awareness of the threat faced by the planet’s ecology and humans from plastic pollution. The Odyssey set off from Brittany in April 2017 and headed west, crossing the Atlantic to the Caribbean and Latin America, to the Pacific Ocean islands, and South-East Asia, before arriving in Hong Kong in October 2019. By then, Odyssey had visited 22 locations in 17 countries. In January 2020,
Marco Simeoni, Founder of Race for Water Foundation, in Pulau Gaya, Borneo
2020 JAN / FEB
Odyssey will set sail for Shanghai, and then Tokyo, where it will have its longest stopover throughout July. The timing was deliberately chosen to coincide with the Summer Olympic Games. The aim at each stop is to engage with local authorities, private individuals and schoolchildren. Nearly 15,000 people have received outreach since 2017, which includes more than 5,500 schoolchildren. For maximum impact, it is crucial for Odyssey to be present in locations during major events. The Bermuda stage in 2017, for example, coincided with the America’s Cup and it will be in Dubai in time for the Expo 2020. A Race for Water statement notes: “Raising public awareness is important, but the emphasis is on reaching those who have the power to take decisions and action.” While one of Race for Water’s primary missions is to 22 JAN / FEB 2020
generate awareness about ocean pollution, it is also working to find a solution to the issue of transforming and repurposing plastic waste based on optimized high-temperature pyrolysis technology (decomposing plastics using high temperatures). Deployed on a massive scale, this could end the majority of ocean contamination caused by plastic waste. An official statement from the brand explains why Breguet chose Race for Water over other foundations and causes, “What sets Race for Water apart is its global scope and realistic approach. What makes the foundation unique is its outreach, and the proactive work with young people in particular. It has a strong educational aspect, and the scientific component is also vital. Collecting waste is great but repurposing it and transforming it into clean energy is even better. This is the ambition behind this project.”
THE POWER OF
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Julia Ibbini, winner of ‘Van Cleef & Arpels Middle East Emergent Designer Prize 2019’ 24 JAN / FEB 2020
‘Symbio Vessels,’ Julia Ibbini’s visual treat is the winner of ‘Van Cleef & Arpels Middle East Emergent Designer Prize 2019’
ulia Ibbini was announced the winner of the ‘Van Cleef & Arpels Middle East Emergent Designer Prize 2019,’ making her the sixth winner of the annual design competition established in 2013. The competition is a longstanding commitment of Van Cleef & Arpels, the French High Jewelry maison, towards nurturing talented designers across the GCC region. It is organised in partnership with Tashkeel, the UAE-based visual art and design organisation. As the winner, Julia has been invited to travel to Paris for a one-week trip to L’Ecole Van Cleef & Arpels, a school dedicated to accentuating the methods behind the world of jewellery creation and watchmaking. In addition, a total of AED 30,000 was awarded to her to cover the entire cost of materials and production of her design piece. The winning work was showcased until December at the newly opened Les Salons Van Cleef & Arpels Dubai Opera boutique. Alessandro Maffi, Managing Director of Van Cleef & Arpels Middle East and India, said after the announcement: “L’Ecole Van Cleef & Arpels is proud to take Julia Ibbini under its wing and provide the guidance essential for young designers
and innovators like her to become successful professionals in the field of jewellery arts. With the positive partnership with Tashkeel, we strived to instil an intellectual and emotional understanding of jewellery and encourage young talent from the Middle East to scale greater heights.” Julia, voicing her gratitude said, “I am grateful to Tashkeel and Van Cleef & Arpels for providing a platform for artists such as myself to portray our skills and showcase our creativity to a larger audience. I believe it is the flaws which come with the human hand that produce the beautiful end result.” The 2019 edition of the prize was announced in April and given the theme of ‘Cyclical.’ As always, several emerging designers who are resident in the GCC sent in their original works to the open competition. The submissions must embody the given theme and must be interpreted through materials, forms, functions and techniques. Julia, a Jordanian-British artist living in Abu Dhabi, emerged as the winner from this year’s submissions, beating her compatriots by a wide margin. The submissions were evaluated by a panel of jury members representing Van Cleef & Arpels, Tashkeel and Dubai Institute 2020 JAN / FEB
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An example of ‘Symbio Vessels’ by Julia Ibbini of Design and Innovation (DiDi). Julia used paper to create a total of four sculptural vessels which she calls ‘Symbio Vessels.’ Much of her current work was created using custom-developed computer software and laser machines, resulting in highly detailed laser cut works on layered paper. Some of these commissioned works have been showcased at several exhibitions across the region, as well as in the Presidential Palace in Abu Dhabi, Al Maryah Central and St. Regis Hotel in Jordan. For the ‘Symbio Vessels,’ Julia used a similar combination of computer software, laser machines and human hands to produce detail and accuracy in a very organic and imperfect way. The four pieces play between the contrasting and complimentary, distinct yet related concepts, both in the design and feel of the final form. Lisa Ball-Lechgar, Deputy Director of Tashkeel, said: “Tashkeel is proud to partner in The Van Cleef & Arpels Middle East Emergent Designer Prize, an outstanding initiative that has significantly contributed to the growth of the design sector across the region since its launch in 2013. Previous winners have gone on to enjoy successful careers at the
forefront of design practice. We are delighted with the outcome of the sixth edition, which reflects Tashkeel’s vision to foster innovation and creativity among emerging practitioners.” Tashkeel was established in 2008 by Sheikha Lateefa bint Maktoum to provide a nurturing environment for the growth of contemporary art and design practice rooted in the UAE. Through multi-disciplinary studios, workspaces and galleries located in both Nad Al Sheba and Al Fahidi, it enables creative practise, experimentation and dialogue among practitioners and the wider community. Operating on an open membership model, Tashkeel’s annual programme of training, residencies, workshops, talks, exhibitions, international collaborations and publications aims to further practitioner development, public engagement, lifelong learning and the creative and cultural industries. Van Cleef & Arpels was founded in 1906 in Paris’ Place Vendôme. Today, it is renowned worldwide for its unique designs, choice of exceptional stones and virtuoso craftsmanship. The maison has a longstanding relationship with not only design but also literature, performance and visual arts that goes beyond mere sponsorship. 2020 JAN / FEB
AI GETS PERSONAL
AI is transforming not just our cities and industries; it is changing the way we live our lives
rtificial Intelligence (AI), in the near future, is expected to be such a massively disruptive force that it is drawing comparisons to the kind of disruption caused to society during the industrial revolution. With the imminent roll-out of 5G communications worldwide, with the arrival of ‘Internet of things’ devices in our homes and everyday lives, and with the roll-out of self-driving vehicles and smart infrastructure, AI is no longer a distant concept for CEOs and technocrats to ponder about, but an everyday reality for all of us. AI, in simple terms, are algorithms that enable computers to contentiously learn from their experiences rather than being instructed on what to do in every conceivable situation. AI selflearns through a cyclical model. To begin with, AI algorithms require large volumes of extremely diverse, granular data, which it uses to unravel patterns and build models. These models are tested in real-world situations to get feedback on their effectiveness. The testing generates new data sets which are studied by the algorithm and used to improve the model, which
The Gita Robot by Piaggio Fast Forward 28 JAN / FEB 2020
is then tested, and the cycle continues. With each turn of the cycle, the effectiveness and efficiency of the model improves. The objective of AI is to eventually mimic some human cognitive functions, some of which may also include physical functions such as in robotics. However, merely automating thought processes or human activity is not AI’s USP. It is in doing a task more effectively and more efficiently than humans. For, example, the AI behind a self-driving car needs to be not just as good as a human but must be better. This means fewer or no errors with more efficient and safer driving. In 2017, Moley Robotics unveiled the world’s first robotic kitchen which, they claim, doesn’t just cook, but can cook “with the skill and flair of a master chef.” As evidenced by the example above, AI-enabled devices have begun to move beyond automating infrastructure, transportation and manufacturing. They have started, in a big way, to enter into our homes and personal lives. Smartphones or smartwatches are capable of managing our schedules and even tracking our health vitals. We can monitor and manage
All photos courtesy of Gita
our home while sitting in the office or on a beach. Chatbots manage our office communication for us while we are occupied elsewhere. Our homes are transforming into smart homes where every device is connected to and controlled by an AI-powered hub. We are talking about not just computers, smartphones and some large appliances such as refrigerators, entertainment systems or washing machines, but things like clocks, speakers, lights, doorbells, cameras, windows, window blinds, water heaters, kitchens appliances or even cooking utensils – all connected and capable of being programmed and responding to instructions. Amazon’s Alexa, Apple’s Siri, Google’s Assistant are three of the best-known AI-powered Intelligent Virtual Assistants (IVA) or intelligent personal assistants (IPA) already available (there are many others) that are capable of being control hubs for smart homes. There are also wall switches that use Wi-Fi to connect with and control various smart devices. Logitech’s Harmony Elite is billed as the ultimate universal remote as it can pair with the Harmony Home Hub to control other smart devices. There are even smart plugs that can be used to manage non-connected home appliances with features such as power usage reports, voice control, flexible scheduling and connectivity to smart hubs. Home surveillance and security are among the most important applications of AI in our homes. Improving energy consumption is another area of focus where smart devices are used to regulate things like the temperature, to control the intensity and colour of the lighting, and many more. There are even cookers and barbecuers that claim to cook meat to perfection while optimising energy consumption. To save us from cumbersome chores, there are vacuum cleaners, lawnmowers and pool cleaners that do them for us on preset schedules and without human intervention.
On the subject of improving convenience, Piaggio Fast Forward, a tech-focused subsidiary of Italian automaker Piaggio, has recently unveiled the first cargo-carrying robot marketed directly to consumers. The Gita - pronounced Jeetah, the Italian word for a short, enjoyable excursion – is a small, two-wheeled, hands-free cargo carrier that can follow its owner on short trips, for example, to the grocery. It weighs 23 kilograms, can carry up to 9 kilograms and costs $3,250. Gita does not require a smartphone to operate or use peopletracking technology such as facial recognition or GPS to follow its owner. It just “locks” onto its owner and tracks them wherever they go. The idea of a completely autonomous small cargo carrier is neither new nor untested. Amazon, FedEx and Ford have been experimenting with autonomous delivery robots for final-mile deliveries to client’s doorsteps. Starship Technologies, a tech startup, has developed a six-wheel cargo carrier that resembles an oversized icebox. It can carry a payload of nine-kilograms. The company had plans to sell the device directly to customers but backed out of it when they realised that the price tag might go as high as $3,000; making it price prohibitive. Instead, they chose to use it as a food and beverage delivery from restaurants to clients on college campuses for a small fee. Piaggio’s Gita was designed to be a personal companion device from day one. Given its price, size, and stated use, critics argue that there may not be a big enough market for it. However, at a lower price point, or if Piaggio can develop variants for more practical uses such as moving tools and equipment around in workshops, hospitals or factories, it may have a greater appeal. Irrespective of whether Gita becomes a commercial success or not, it has opened a new avenue for AI-driven devices to make our lives a little less tedious. More are sure to follow. 2020 JAN / FEB
The Rolex Awards for Enterprise 2019 Laureates: (From left to right) Grégoire Courtine, Krithi Karanth, João Campos-Silva, Miranda Wang and Brian Gitta
The Rolex Awards for Enterprise identifies and rewards those finding innovative solutions to the problems facing humanity and the planet
he Rolex Awards for Enterprise was established in 1976 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Rolex Oyster chronometer, the world’s first waterproof watch. The award supports innovative thinkers who are reshaping the future with their vision, courage and ground-breaking projects. These projects must advance human knowledge, protect cultural heritage or help preserve natural habitats and species. From its inception, these awards were designed to fill a void in corporate philanthropy by supporting exceptional individuals and projects around the world who would otherwise have none or limited access to traditional funding. The Rolex Awards, therefore, differ from most others in that they fund working projects in their infancy and are focused on the future - and not for past achievements. “Rolex’s funding is similar to that of an angel investor who is not expecting a return of investment,” Rebecca Irvin, head of philanthropy at Rolex, told the press conference held to introduce the five Laureates of 2019. “We hope to help these
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individuals scale up their projects and bring them to the next level.” The support given by Rolex to the winners has had a catalytic impact, according to the brand, and has, in many cases transformed lives and communities. It has also stimulated new ways of thinking about everyday problems in areas as diverse as creating technologies that improved lives, saving endangered ecosystems, protecting the oceans, exploring new frontiers on the planet, or pioneering advances in science and health. In the past 43 years, the biannual award has received 34,000 projects proposals from 191 countries. Of these, 150 laureates have been selected thus far, with the youngest Laureate being 24 years old and the oldest at 74. These winners were chosen by a total of 146 experts who have served on the jury thus far. Since the Awards were launched in 1976, a completely new jury has been convened for each edition of the Awards. The jury comprises ten independent, international individuals selected for their “expertise and stature in a wide variety of fields. The jury is asked to keep the following criteria in mind
The Rolex Awards for Enterprise 2019 Associate Laureates: (left to right) Topher White, Dr Sara Saeed, Yves Moussallam, Emma Camp and Pablo García Borboroglu when they are selecting the finalists: “Does the applicant have a spirit of enterprise and show determination, courage and tenacity in undertaking a bold or challenging project? Does the project break new ground or represent a new way of looking at a problem? And, will the project have a wide impact on a community, society or on the world?” The jury selects ten finalists from a shortlist of nearly 1,000 applicants. From these ten finalists, five Laureates are chosen. In the 2019 edition, each Laureate received 200,000 Swiss francs (around UDS$ 204,000) to advance their projects along with a Rolex chronometer. They will also benefit from worldwide publicity arranged by the brand. The Laureates were presented their awards in August last year, at a formal ceremony held at the Smithsonian American Art Museum in Washington. The remaining five finalists, designated Associate Laureates, receive 100,000 Swiss francs, with the award presentation either held in their home countries or region. In the case of the Pakistani Dr Sara Saeed, the CEO of Sehat Kahani, the presentation ceremony was held at the Etihad Museum in Dubai, on December 8, 2019. Sehat Kahani runs 25 e-clinics across Pakistan, each administered by a nurse who connects patients to one of the stay-at-home female doctors through digital communications technology. The five 2019 Laureates are: João Campos-Silva who is working to save not only the Arapaima - the largest scaled
freshwater fish in the world – but also the livelihoods, food supply and culture of the indigenous communities who depend on the Amazon rivers for survival. Grégoire Courtine is using technology to help patients who have broken their backs to walking again. Ugandan IT specialist Brian Gitta has developed a powerful, mobile and self-contained diagnosis tool to detect malaria. Krithi Karanth is an Indian conservationist working to resolve conflicts between farmers and dwindling wildlife. Canadian entrepreneur Miranda Wang wants to convert the world’s plastic waste into new wealth. The other four Associate Laureate of 2019 are: Argentinian conservationist Pablo García Borboroglu who launched an international campaign to find the reasons behind an alarming decline in world penguin populations. Marine biologist Emma Camp is out to find the world’s most robust corals and use them to repopulate wreaked coral beds due by climate change. French volcanologist Yves Moussallam wants to shed light on how the gases and aerosols emitted by volcanoes are affecting climate change. Technologist Topher White is giving scientists and conservationists a unique view of wildlife in the world’s rainforests using old mobile phones. The Awards are open to anyone over 18 years of age, of any nationality. Candidates can apply in five areas: science and health, applied technology, exploration, cultural heritage and the environment. The next set of Laureates will be presented in 2021. 2020 JAN / FEB
Call for entries in 1976 for the first series of the Rolex Awards for Enterprise. The Rolex Awards were created in 1976 to mark the 50th anniversary of the iconic HOROLOGY Rolex Oyster watch, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first waterproof chronometer, and to celebrate the historic milestone by helping lay the foundation of a better future. It was one of the first examples of a corporate awards programme. Applications flooded into Geneva from around the world and, due to the extraordinary response, the first five Laureates received their awards in 1978, having been selected by an independent Jury of renowned specialists.
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2020 JAN / FEB
Explorer Mike Horn 34 JAN / FEB 2020
RUGGED AND ECO-FRIENDLY
Officine Panerai has recently unveiled its Submersible Mike Horn Edition
ike Horn, one of the greatest living explorer, has two passions: one is for adventure in the most extreme circumstances, and the other, for saving the planet he loves so dearly. Officine Panerai, a watchmaker known for its rugged and durable watches, has been a supporter of Horn for over 15 years. When Panerai decided to make a new watch dedicated to the prolific explorer, it had to embody Horn’s two passions: It had to withstand the trials that an explorer of the extremes like Horn would put it through, while also using sustainable materials and methods in its production. Mike Horn was born in Johannesburg, South Africa, in 1966. He studied Human Movement Science at Stellenbosch University in Western Cape and currently resides in Château d’Oex, Switzerland, with his two daughters. His wife passed away in 2015 due to breast cancer. Horn spent much of his childhood outdoors with his
siblings. He also excelled in multiple track events and rugby. At the age of 18, he found himself in the army and fighting a war in Angola. He hated the war but also credits it with teaching him valuable life lessons that would prove invaluable in his future adventures. The experience of war coupled with his father’s death from cancer made it difficult for him to live a “normal” life. He then moved to Switzerland and worked odd jobs to raise money to fund his craving for adventure. By 1994, his talent for extreme adventure had begun to attract sponsorship. He has, thus far, traversed the South American continent solo; travelled the length of the equator by foot and boat; travelled along the Arctic circle by foot, sailboat, bicycle and kayak; travelled from Russia to the North Pole on skis in the dark Arctic winter, among other adventures. He has successfully climbed Gasherbum I and II, Broad Peak and Makalu in the
The Panerai Submersible Mike Horn Edition 2020 JAN / FEB
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Himalaya-Karakoram range. Pole2Pole, his latest adventure, concluded this December. It was a three-year circumnavigation of the globe via the South and North Poles, crossing land and sea. The Panerai Submersible Mike Horn Edition is, not surprisingly, a professional-grade diving watch built not only to withstand the challenges within the depths of the ocean, but also the extremes one confronts on the surface of the earth. The watch is water-resistant to a depth of 300 metres (30 bar). The 47 mm case is made of EcoTitanium, a material obtained from recycled titanium and first introduced into the world of watchmaking by Panerai. EcoTitanium is also found on the device protecting the winding crown, the bezel and the case back. The latter is engraved with Mike Horn’s signature and an image inspired by sea creatures. The unidirectional rotating bezel, which has a new design compared to the classic Panerai, enables the duration of each dive to be safely calculated. The use of generous quantities of green Super-LumiNova on the index markers, the large skeleton hands, the seconds dial at 9 o’clock and the date at 3 o’clock makes them stand out in stark contrast against the black of the sandwich dial; thus providing clear legibility in the dark and underwater. Also clearly visible, in normal situations and underwater, are the inscriptions “Panerai Submersible” and “Automatic 300m/1000ft.” These are not printed on the dial but silkscreened on the sapphire crystal which protects it. The black strap - light, strong and resistant - is made of a
material obtained from recycled PET. Likewise, the special packaging in which the watch is sold is made of recycled materials, with a design inspired by that of the instruments specially made for underwater activities. Inside, one finds a second rubber strap. The watch is operated by the P.9010 automatic calibre with a power reserve of three days. It comes to life at the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel, which operates in compliance with the strictest international environmental standards. The building has been designed to reduce carbon dioxide emissions to zero, and it is equipped with state-of-the-art energy-saving devices and equipment for recovering and reusing waste materials. The Mike Horn collection also includes a 19-piece limited edition version. It is distinguished by the use of a color blue being used for the first time by Panerai. It recalls the blue of the sea, according to Panerai, and is the ideal colour for celebrating the love that both, Horn and Panerai, have for this element. The blue is on the luminous substance used on the dial, on the rotating bezel, and on the strap. The latter is also made from recycled PET. The owners of these very-exclusive timepieces will have the opportunity to experience a few days of intensive training with Horn among the ice floes of the Arctic. It is a chance to put themselves to the test by confronting nature’s challenges, as well as becoming personally aware of the dangers to our ecosystem caused by the impact of humans. 2020 JAN / FEB
Charlize Theron, American-South African Actress COVER STORY
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A REAL-LIFE BALLET
The real-life struggles and achievements of Charlize Theron are remarkable even by Hollywood standards
hespians, particularly those who play the lead roles, generally fall into one of two categories. They are either exceptionally good-looking individuals who can act, or they are exceptionally good actors who are also good looking. There are a few exceptions to this generalisation, and Charlize Theron is one of them. She has portrayed a broad spectrum of characters ranging between the protagonist to the antagonist. Recall her leading comedic role in Seth MacFarlane’s A Million Ways to Die in the West in contrast to the determined and bald Furiosa in Mad Max: Fury Road, or the evil Queen Ravenna - a powerful sorceress and stepmother of Snow White, and of course, the Oscar-winning portrayal of serial killer Aileen Wuornos in Monster. Charlize, though quite guarded about her private life by Hollywood standards, has been quite vocal and forthright in expressing her opinions on the subjects that matter to her. She has also been actively involved in her philanthropic commitments; beyond just playing the role of an ambassador. Given her versatility and proven competence as an actress, one would be forgiven for assuming that a career in acting is her childhood ambition being realised. By her own admission,
acting was not her first love; it was dancing. She did not turn to acting as a career option until she was nearly 20 years old, when dancing was no longer an option. Charlize Theron, born in 1975, is the only child of Gerda and Charles Theron. The couple co-owned a road construction company in the city of Benoni, in the greater Johannesburg area, South Africa. The Afrikaans-speaking family lived on a working farm where a young Charlize’s chores included tending to livestock. Among her ancestors, her great-great-uncle Danie Theron was a distinguished Afrikaner military commander of the Second Boer War. Theron is a prominent Afrikaans surname origination from Southern France’s Huguenots community who immigrated to South Africa. Charlize has always been proud of her South African heritage, as evidenced by the fact that when she became a US Citizen in 2008, she did not relinquish her South African passport. Among her proudest moments was the reception she received in South Africa after winning the Oscar, especially from Nelson Mandela. Afrikaans is still her first language and one she uses to converse with her mother. As a child, she learnt to speak English by watching American television shows but did not 2020 JAN / FEB
become fluent in the language until she came to the US. American is her natural accent. Charlize demonstrated a passion for dance at an early age and began attending local ballet classes at the age of six. When she was twelve, her parents sent her to Johannesburg to study dance. She also began modelling at age 14 for the Afrikaanslanguage women’s monthly magazine Rooi Rose or Red Rose. Charlize’s childhood was not a happy one, to say the least. Her father, struggling with alcoholism, was prone to unleashing physical abuse at home. In 1991, aged 15, Charlize witnessed her mother shoot her father dead in an attempt to defend herself and Charlize against his violence. It was deemed an act of selfdefence, and Gerda Theron was not charged. When Charlize was 16, she won the 1991 International New Model Today competition held in Johannesburg, which took her to Italy, and to the catwalks of Milan. After a couple of years in Europe, she arrived in New York aged 18. She had won a scholarship to train as a ballet dancer at the Joffrey Ballet
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School while working as a photo model. Her future looked promising as she performed in such productions as Swan Lake and The Nutcracker, before suffering a series of injuries on both knees that eventually curtailed a future in dance. It was only when her dancing career came to an end that she started thinking of acting. So, in 1994, her mother bought her a one-way ticket to Los Angeles, where she began presenting herself to agents but did not have much. Her Afrikaner accent was a hindrance to getting any meaningful roles. She once again turned to television, this time to perfect her American accent. Then one day, the story goes, Charlize, having reached near destitution levels, received a US $500 cheque from her mother issued by a South African Bank, but the teller at Charlize’s American bank refused to encash the cheque. Unable to contain herself, Charlize threw a tantrum. This drew the attention of the other bank patrons, one of whom was John Crosby, a Hollywood manager who has represented the likes of John Hurt and Rene Russo.
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Crosby offered to sign Charlize, and within a few months, she made her acting debut in a small non-speaking role in Children of the Corn III which released in 1995. The following year, 1996, maybe regarded as Charlize’s break out year. First with the minor but impactful role of Helga Svelgen in the cult classic 2 Days in the Valley. This performance led to her getting the part of Tina Powers in Tom Hank’s directorial debut: That Thing You Do!. These two distinctly different roles were both portrayed with a high level of competence and in an attention-grabbing manner. Charlize’s acting career has been on an upward trajectory ever since. That year is also, in a way, symbolic of her career. She has refused to be typecast and has taken on roles in various genres in her career. Thus far, she has been nominated for two Oscars in the Best Actress category, six times for the Golden Globe Award
and four times for the Screen Actors Guild Awards, among numerous others. She won all three majors with her epic performance in Monster, for which she gained nearly 30 pounds. She has also consistently appeared in several glamour publications’ best-looking celebrity rankings. She received a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame in 2005. Given her modelling background, Charlize has landed some highly lucrative endorsement deals over the years, the most notable being the global face of Jádore brand of perfume by Dior. She is a member of the first “Breitling Cinema Squads,” along with Brad Pitt, Adam Driver, and Daniel Wu. They appear in different squad combinations and settings as part of Breitling’s latest global marketing campaign. Charlize spends a lot of her spare time in promoting some of the causes she believes in. She is involved in women’s rights
organisations and has marched in pro-choice rallies. In 2014, she recorded a public service announcement as part of the UN’s Stop Rape Now program. As a supporter of animal rights, she has appeared in a PETA’s anti-fur ad-campaign. She is also an advocate for The Global Fund, dedicated to fighting AIDS, tuberculosis and malaria. In 2008, Charlize was named United Nations’ tenth Messenger of Peace by Ban Ki-Moon, for striving towards “improving the lives of women and children in South Africa, and to preventing and stopping violence against women and girls.” The charity most dear to her heart is the Charlize Theron Africa Outreach Project (CTAOP) which she founded in 2007. It is committed to reducing the prevalence of HIVAIDS and sexual violence among African youth. Although the geographic scope of CTAOP is Sub-Saharan Africa, the primary focus of its work has been in South Africa. Rather than direct action, CTAOP supports community-
based organisations working in the concerned areas because, Charlize believes, they understand the social and structural relationships of their communities better than anyone else, and therefore, can be more effective. Support is provided through grant-giving, networking, spotlighting their work and enabling communities to mobilise. CTAOP is rated Four Star by Charity Navigator for meeting all its 20 “Better Business Bureau” charity standards. It also has a Platinum Seal of Transparency from the GuideStar. In 2018, it raised over US $400 million in revenue, a significant increase from the previous year’s revenue of over US $306 million. Back on the big screen, Charlize returns as the villainous Cipher in the 9th instalment of the Fast and Furious franchise scheduled for release in May. The deeply sociopathic Cipher is a far cry from the deeply empathetic Sara Deever in Sweet November, but then again, that is Charlize Theron’s acting career in a nutshell.
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THE POWER OF
children and young people are currently in urgent need of educational support in 35 crises-affected countries
To make a donation, visit:
2020 JAN / FEB
Levi’s® x BAPE® Split Trucker Jacket
GC’s exclusive interview with Jonathan Cheung, Levi’s SVP of Design Innovation
onathan Cheung joined Levi’s in 2009 as a Design Director for Made & Crafted line in Amsterdam. This was followed by stints as SVP Head of Design and VP Global Men’s Merchandising before taking on his current responsibility as SVP of Design Innovation in 2019. Jonathan graduated from the Kingston School of Fashion with First Class Honors in Fashion Design. He has accumulated more than 25 years of Men’s & Women’s design experience. 44 JAN / FEB 2020
He has led creative teams in six countries and is fluent in three languages: English, Cantonese and Italian. Before joining Levi’s, Jonathan worked with Franco Moschino and Giorgio Armani in Milan. He also created the first jeans line for Iceberg. In 2017, Jonathan joined Fashion Tech Lab’s Mentors Board founded by Miroslava Duma. He currently resides in Mill Valley, California with his wife Zoe and their children Mila and Caspar.
Jonathan Cheung, SVP of Design Innovation, Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 2020 JAN / FEB
Given Levi’s rich heritage, how do you stay true to its DNA while adapting to the changing times? It’s an interesting design challenge. I think it has been an advantage to have such a strong history and design DNA. It gives a brand an anchor, authenticity and a strong brand identity. I believe all great brands have such a strong identity that you can close your eyes and picture them. This is true of Apple, Rolex, Porsche, Chanel – and Levi’s. Our job has been to build on our iconic brand identity – the 501 and Trucker jacket are the foundation, the bone structure of our brand – and to keep them relevant. How do we do that? We’re always aiming to stay close to the centre of our culture. Who are your design heroes, and from where do you draw inspiration for design? I love the work of Naoto Fukasawa, Jony Ive and Marc Newson. The simplicity, and yet inherent ‘human-ness’ of their work has nourished me through the years. I remember the sushi master, Jiro Ono saying, “In order to make delicious food, you must eat delicious food. The quality of ingredients is important, but one must develop a palate capable of discerning good and bad. Without good taste, you can’t make good food. If your sense of taste is lower than that of the customers, how will you impress them?” Designers like Ive have raised our standards of taste, and for that, I’ll always be grateful to them. Shigero Miyamoto, the legendary creator of Super Mario,
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is another design hero of mine. The creativity, the delight, the way Miyamoto designs at an emotional, human level is breathtaking. Finally, I’ve been lucky to work with many amazing designers – Franco Moschino, Giorgio Armani, Virgil Abloh, etc. There is one whom I’ve admired for years that I’d still love to work with – Phoebe Philo. How do you ensure creativity and productivity within your team? That’s a good question and something that I’ve worked on for years to try and get better at. For creativity, making sure you have a broad range of stimulation is important. Curiosity is key to creativity – so travel, reading a lot and interacting with interesting, diverse people is very important. Sharing ideas and observations, by having weekly team meetings and continuous conversations really help. Looking at trends outside fashion can also stimulate ideas. Trends in travel, food, cosmetics, etc., all reveal changes in peoples’ values and expectations. For productivity, there are good individual hacks, such as getting good sleep and exercise. Walking a lot helps you be creative and productive. Then I would recommend just keeping to-do lists and checking in frequently to see that the team has made progress. A good habit for any creative leader is to check in with your team, and ask them, ‘what are you working on, and how can I help’. I also recommend writing a five-minute email summary at the end of every week to send to your boss, so that productivity is easily tracked.
Levi’s® x BAPE® FW’19 Collection Levi’s is known for its collaborations. How does the brand choose whom it partners with? We are very proud to have worked with so many great partners in recent years. Looking back over 2019, we’ve done over 25 collaborations – it’s been busy! When it comes to choosing collaborators, we look first of all for authenticity. There should be mutual affection – the partner should be a genuine fan of Levi’s and vice versa. For example, when we started working with Netflix on our collection for Stranger Things, it was clear that Levi’s had been naturally featured in series one and two, and the design team were all crazy about Stranger Things, so it was easy. I think you can tell when things are created with passion and love versus just being commercial entities. The recent collaboration with Japanese streetwear brand Bape, what does it entail? The collaboration revolves around Levi’s Trucker jacket. The jacket comes in different colourways of the famous Bape camo pattern, and what makes it special is that there’s a zip down the back of the jacket so that you can split the jacket in
half and then combine it with another colourway. When the collaboration was launched at Sole DXB, you could choose which combination of right and left side jacket you want, and then further customize by choosing your own buttons, adding patches and screen printing too. People got really creative. What projects is Levi’s currently working on? Lots more collaborations. We have a busy 2020. I’m also spending a lot of time on sustainability projects. You’ll see much more hemp denim from Levi’s next year. And many projects that involve customization. How do you see the evolution and the future of Levi’s? What makes Levi’s special is its relationship with people and culture. People evolve, and what we value changes over time. So, for Levi’s to stay relevant, it’s important for us to stay connected with people and culture. That’s why we’re spending a lot of time working on sustainability, customization and collaborations, as these are things that people value. 2020 JAN / FEB
Stephen “Hawthy” Hawthornthwaite and Roth Martin, Founders, Rothy’s
Rothy’s shoes have quietly but steadily carved a niche for itself in the world of women’s footwear
eghan Markle, The Duchess of Sussex, was spotted wearing a pair of black point-toe flats manufactured by a start-up few had heard of and founded by two men with zero experience in manufacturing footwear. And yet, the brand has become a firm favourite with women in San Francisco, New York and beyond. Some have even labelled themselves “addicts” of the brand and have waited in queues to get their hands on a pair. The waiting list sometimes has run in the thousands. The brand is not just another ‘it’ item of the moment. It has sound sustainability credentials while its shoes are comfortable, feminine and colourful. Rothy’s is a San Francisco-based direct-to-consumer shoe company founded in 2012 and launched in 2016 by Roth Martin (director of merchandising) and Stephen “Hawthy” Hawthornthwaite (the CEO until recently). The brand name is an amalgamation of Roth and Hawthy. Given that Rothy’s makes shoes for women, the founders have sensibly staffed the company with women in key positions, including Kerry Cooper, the President and Chief Operating Officer. Roth was born into San Francisco’s elite society, graduated from Boston University, spent five years as a commoditiestrader before becoming an art dealer. Hawthornthwaite is a South Carolina native and was an investment banker. The two
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met through their wives, became close friends and wanted to start a business venture together. They noticed that the yoga pants so loved women of San Francisco, including their wives, rarely had comfortable shoes to go with them except sports shoes. So, they decided to start manufacturing sustainable, durable and comfortable shoes for women. The two had to start from scratch, and it took much trial and error to get the formula just right, which explains the four-year development period. In 2018, Rothy’s had sold a reported US $140 million worth of shoes, or over one million pairs, and is expected to sell close to two million in 2019. In the latest round of funding, the company intentionally raised only $42 million in equity from investors led by Lightspeed Venture Partners and Goldman Sachs because Roth and Stephen wanted to keep control of the company as majority shareholders. However, the brand has a valuation of $700 million. Rothy’s currently offers five designs for women: roundtoe and point-toe flats, loafers, sneakers and chelseas. There is also a slip-on sneakers collection for kids. All are made from 100% recycled plastic water bottles and post-consumer recycled materials. The only exception being the recently introduced Merino Collection which, as the name suggests, is a blend of threads comprising Merino wool and recycled plastic. All are
Rothys - Captoe Black crafted to be durable and machine washable. Sustainability has been at the heart of the brand’s business model from day one, and it goes beyond just using threads made from recycled plastic bottles. Sustainability drives every aspect of the company’s activity from materials used in production, to the way it treats its personnel. The brand claims to have repurposed over 37 million singleuse plastic bottles and turned them into Rothy’s signature thread. The process begins with single-use plastic bottles being chipped into little flakes and sanitised. The flakes are then pressed into tiny pellets before being made into spools of thread. The merino wool comes from an Australian farm where they are “humanely harvested” before being processed at a “sustainable mill” in Italy. The brand uses two types of sustainable outsoles. One is made with carbon-free rubber, and the other uses luxe vegan leather. The soft, cushy, washable insoles are made with bio-based castor oil and recycled materials. The brand owns its factory in China which comprises six floors with 140 knitting machines and some 500 workers. This means Rothy’s has complete ownership of the manufacturing process, which combines hand-craftsmanship and machine
assembly. Since the shoes are knit to shape and not cut from larger pieces of fabric, the process produces drastically less waste than traditional shoemaking methods. The shoeboxes are strong enough to ship on their own, thus not requiring boxin-box packaging waste. Also, the cardboard inserts are fully biodegradable, and the blue ribbon that seals every box is made from recycled materials. Beyond manufacturing, the brand has partnered with The Envira Amazonia Project (carbonfund.org) to offset its carbon emissions. The Envira Amazonia Project is a payment system for ecosystem services, forest conservationist, and it protects nearly 500,000 acres of tropical rainforest. From its launch to until recently, Rothy’s has had the firstmover advantage and had stayed largely under the radar, thus enabling it to carve out a niche for itself. However, the spotlight is now squarely on Rothy’s, other brands have taken note, and imitations have begun to appear. Cole Haan had started offering knitted shoes but mostly for men. Everlane, another San Francisco-based clothing start-up popular with the same demographic group as Rothy’s, recently introduced its own knitted flats that look quite similar to Rothy’s. To keep pace, Martin has admitted that new products are being planned but has thus far not divulged any secrets. 2020 JAN / FEB
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A brief review of some of the highlights from the 2019 MBLM Brand Intimacy Study for the luxury goods industry
BLM, the New York-based Brand Intimacy Agency, recently published its 2019 Brand Intimacy Study for the UAE. According to the report, the luxury goods industry remains in 7th place, out of the 15 industries analysed. The industry has been at the 7th spot for the past three years. The top-ranked luxury brand this year is Dior, at number 18 overall, followed by Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Dolce & Gabbana, Armani, Gucci, Hugo Boss, Burberry, and Hermès, making up the top ten. Apple retained its number one spot overall, followed by Emirates, Ford, Mercedes and Audi. Lexus and BMW came in at 8 and 9, respectively. MBLM defines brand Intimacy as: “the emotional science that measures the bonds we form with the brands we use and love.” For any critics who may be quick to dismiss the study as fluff stuff, the agency states: “The top Intimate Brands outperform top brands in the S&P and Fortune 500 indices for revenue and profit. Consumers are also more willing to pay price premiums for Intimate Brands and less willing to live without them... MBLM leverages the yearly study to help client brands create, sustain and measure ultimate brand relationships.” The agency compiled the financials, over a ten-year period (2008–2017), of the top 10 companies from the Brand Intimacy global rankings, Standard & Poor’s 500, and the Fortune 500 lists. It reports that the Brand Intimacy top 10 delivered average revenue growth of 3.93% better than the S&P top 10 and 5.01% over the Fortune 500. In terms of average profit growth, the Brand Intimacy top 10 experienced 38.60% and 24.52% higher growth than the S&P and Fortune 500 top 10, respectively. The Brand Intimacy Study and the research behind it were, according to MBLM, specifically designed to provide prescriptive guidance to marketers, so that marketers will not only understand where their brand falls in the hierarchy of performance but also how to strengthen its performance in the future. The 2019 UAE report is the result of an online quantitative survey conducted in 2018 by MBLM, with Praxis Research Partners, among 1,200 consumers in the UAE. The participants, ranging between 18 and 64 years of age, were categorised by socio-economic status, age, gender, and region. Quotas were established to ensure that the sample mirrored census data for each of the categories. The data collected was then used to quantify the mechanisms that drive intimacy. In other words, to understand the extent to which consumers have relationships with brands, and the strength of those relationships ranging from “fairly detached” to “highly intimate.” With the help of tools such as factor analysis, structural equation modelling, and other analytic techniques, the research is designed to enable marketers to better understand
which levers need to be pulled to build intimacy between their brand and consumers. Although the luxury goods industry seems to be stagnating at 7th place, with only two of them in the overall top 30 and an additional five brands in the Top 100, there were positives for individual brands to take away from the study. While Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Hugo Boss, Burberry, and Hermès have fallen in the industry rankings this year, Dior, Chanel, Cartier, Dolce & Gabbana, and Armani have all improved. This is particularity true for Dior, which not only reached the number one spot for the first time, but has experienced a significant improvement in the past two years, nearly doubling its quotient score from 23.8 in 2017 to 48.7 in 2019, with the industry average at 36.6. Chanel, in second, had a quotient score of 46.3, followed by Louis Vuitton at 44.6 and Cartier 42.8. “We see that Dior performs stronger across most archetypes, in particular across indulgence (close relationships centred around moments of pampering and gratification), fulfilment (brand exceeds expectations by delivering superior service, quality, and efficacy) and identity (reflects an aspirational image or admired values that resonate deeply). These archetypes, or patterns that identify characteristics of the emotional bond, sum up consumers’ associations with the luxury industry,” states the report. Nearly 50% of all Dior users have reported that they have an “immediate emotional connection” with the brand, while 14.5% of them are willing to pay 20% more for the brands’ products, which is higher than the industry average of 10.4%. Gucci was able to nurture an “immediate emotional connection” with 54.7% of users, which is 11.6% above the industry average. Meanwhile, 15.1% of users consider Cartier to be the most essential luxury brand - a brand whose consumer can’t live without – which is 6.3% above the industry average. Demographically, Dior ranks as the number one luxury brand for millennials and users with low incomes, and the second-ranked brand for women, men and users 35 years and above. Chanel ranked number one with women, users in the 35 to 64-year segment and users with high-income. Louis Vuitton is the number one brand for men across all incomes and socio-economic levels. Looking at the luxury goods industry as a whole, consumers identified ‘Indulgence’ as the top archetype for the luxury industry, while ‘Enhancement’ and ‘Nostalgia’ archetypes are the fastest growing. “The industry’s quotient score has increased gradually,” observes the report, however, “its growth has not kept pace with the rest of the study.” On a positive note, it states: “A key destination for luxury goods, brands in the UAE have been able to build strong bonds with consumers over the past few years. So, it is not surprising that 30.7% of all users report being in one of the three stages of intimacy.” 2020 JAN / FEB
Richard Mille’s new RM 33-02 is a bridge between Sporty and Classy
ith the RM 33-02, Richard Mille attempts to merge two diametrically opposing characteristics in the world of horology: the dynamism of a sports watch with the elegance of a round timepiece. Developed under the supervision of Julien Boillat, Richard Mille’s Technical Director for Casemaking, the brand strays from its signature tonneau-shaped case with the RM 33-02 - the brand’s first ultra-thin round watch. “In embodying the brand’s intended vision of extreme versatility, the RM 033 is a watch for everyday and any day. We have reinterpreted its aesthetics without disservice to the original version by accentuating its lines. Meanwhile, the exterior decoration, case and dial have been reworked to project a sportier vibe. The RM 33-02 thus achieves a delicate synthesis of so-called ‘lifestyle’ style and sporty style,” said Boillat.
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Even though it has a limited production output, Richard Mille offers a relatively large range of watches and has enjoyed impressive growth since the release of its first watch in 2001. Despite this, the brand is generally regarded as one catering to a niche segment because of its strong association with the world of sports and automobiles. With the RM 33-02, the brand is hoping to step out of its comfort zone to appeal to a broader audience. Richard Mille, the brand’s founder, explains the brand’s approach thus: “I like to reason like some car manufacturers do, as our approach is very similar. We too have our Formula 1 and GT vehicles, our saloons and 4x4s… We no longer see ourselves as a niche brand, but as a generalist brand with many different niches.” He continues, “the likelihood of our customers coming across someone wearing the same
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Richard Mille RM 33-02 54 JAN / FEB 2020
watch is extremely slim, as our collection is particularly extensive. We stuck to, and ultimately succeeded in, overcoming the apparent contradiction between variety and coherence by working precisely on this idea of ‘ranges’.” To elaborate, the RM 029 and RM 033 timepieces are part of an urban category of understated watches perfect for everyday wear. The RM 020, RM 67-01 and RM 017 — often referred to as the “lifestyle” models — are comparable to saloons in the automobile industry as they offer elegant forms and technical features. The RM 031, RM 039 or the more recent RM 62-01 Tourbillon Vibrating Alarm ACJ, are similarly comparable to concept cars: extreme creations that require considerable development and, if released, are done in very limited numbers. The sports watch athletic is embodied by the RM 67-01 and 67-02, offering elegant forms and technical features. With regards to the sporty, round, ultra-thin RM 33-02, Richard says, “we actually re-assessed its place in the collection. That is what led to this sporty saloon of a creation, which features a refined interior as well as bodywork that cleverly reveals its sporting heritage.” The RM 33-02 is powered by the skeletonised RMXP1 calibre in grade-5 titanium, whose open-worked bridges, crafted from the same metal, house a mechanism that combines Swiss know-how with Richard Mille technology. Regulated by a variable-inertia balance oscillating at 3 Hz, this calibre is wound by an off-centred platinum micro-
rotor that considerably reduces the movement’s total thickness to 2.60 mm. The wet sandblasted and Titalyt-treated baseplate, the micro-blasted, stretched and satin-finished surfaces, and the anglage—all produced by hand — accentuate volumes by playing with shadow and light thanks to the highly graphic skeletonisation. The exterior elements and hour-markers add to the watch’s complex visuals. “We assembled these metals and 5N gold hour-markers on two rigid titanium rails fixed between the flange and the movement. The dial, which spans the entire calibre, accentuates the volumes while the typography of the oversized numerals adds a dynamic element to the watch’s easy readability,” explains Boillat. The taut lines of the case, according to the brand, is a combination of the curves of the brand’s signature tonneau shape and the elegance of a round form. Added to this combination is the subtle allusion to sporty style in the design of the hollows. The RM 33-02 is also the first round automatic watch in Carbon TPT. This light yet strong innovative material forms the case, bezel and caseback; complemented by the satinfinished red gold caseband. The three-part case is held in place by 14 grade-5 titanium spline screws, and is mounted on a rubber strap equipped with a grade-5 titanium folding clasp. An elevated central band along the strap, which declines and vanishes, extends from the two hollows positioned at 6 and 12 o’clock. The 33-02 is water-resistant to 30 metres and is available as a limited edition of 140 timepieces. 2020 JAN / FEB
WATCH WEEK SPECIALS
A brief review of Dubai Watch Week 2019 and some of the specials unveiled at the event
ubai Watch Week, founded in 2015 by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, is a global platform dedicated to the preservation of watchmaking culture and heritage. It has become one of the largest non-commercial events for the international watch community where collectors, brands, watchmakers and members of the media interact and share knowledge. The Exhibition Hall had on display some of the latest timepieces from the world’s premier marques complemented by some imaginative, immersive experiences. The 2019 edition also presented several events dedicated to its theme: Innovation and technology; two of the industry’s biggest progress drivers. The Horology Forum hosted intellectual discussions between leading watch curators, pioneers, authors, historians, collectors, brands and industry professionals. Each panel concluded with a Q&A between the attendees and panellists. The Creative Hub facilitated conversations that are designed to foster creativity, champion innovation and celebrate the industry. Over the years, it
has also welcomed numerous limited-edition watch reveals, earning itself the position of being the only event outside of the renowned SIHH and Baselworld fairs to host international launches. Watchmaking masterclasses, open to the public, presented some of the industry’s most respected experts to teach participants the art of assembling timepieces. Similarly, Watch Craft Masterclass explored the industry’s artistic expression through a myriad of techniques such as watch engraving and enamelling. Often described as a “gratifying experience” by the participants, these masterclass sessions accommodated nine attendees per session. Christie’s presented the Auction Room, showcasing rare timepieces and covering a wide range of topics with chief figures from the industry as well as historians and collectors. It also offered guests a glimpse into the world of auctions, through its masterclasses, evaluation room and workshops on how to bid at auctions. Another popular returning segment was the children’s workshop, where kids experienced a mock-up auction and bid for prizes.
BREITLING-AVIATOR 8 ETIHAD LIMITED EDITION To celebrate its partnership with Etihad Airways, Breitling introduced the Aviator 8 Etihad Limited Edition in black steel. Codesigned with Etihad Airways, it is limited to 500 pieces. The model features Arabic language numbers in a striking gold colour with matching gold hands. The gold of the numerals contrasts the black dial. It also displays the day-of-the-week at the 12 o’clock position, and the date at 6 o’clock in addition to the time. The 41 mm DLC-coated stainless-steel case has a solid screwed back. The case is topped by a double anti-reflective sapphire glass and is fastened with a black leather strap. The watch is powered by the Breitling Calibre 45. This automatic wristwatch has a bidirectional rotor winding with over 38 hours of power reserve. 56 JAN / FEB 2020
DE BETHUNE X @BYJORGHYSEK DREAM WATCH 6 TABLE CLOCK Founded in 2002, Manufacture De Bethune is an independent watchmaker that develops and produces all its own timepieces. It is one of the very few manufacturers to master the knowhow of clockmaking. Dream Watch 6 is a clock designed in collaboration with the Swiss artist Jörg Hysek. At its core is the 180-component hand-wound mechanical movement 1318-010, adapted to Watch 6’s design. It displays the hour, minute and moon phase functions with an accuracy of 5.7 seconds in a lunar month, or one day every 1225 years, which corresponds to an accuracy 457 times higher than conventional moon phases – an improvement by a factor of ten compared to the De Bethune standard. It has eight days of power reserve. On the dial, the spherical hands are mirror-polished titanium. The spherical moon phase indicator is sandblasted steel with mirror-polished flame-blued steel. De Bethune’s signature concave starry sky is blued mirror-polished titanium inlaid with white gold stars. Yellow gold rings and hour indicators are presented on blued titanium.
FREDERIQUE CONSTANT PERPETUAL CALENDAR TOURBILLON MANUFACTURE DUBAI EDITION The brand marked its first participation at the Dubai Watch Week last year by launching this Limited Edition of just ten pieces. It was developed in cooperation with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. Its perfectly balanced tourbillon cage is composed of 80 components, all produced with high precision. It consists of a mobile cage, driven by a gear train carrying the balance wheel and its escapement. The mechanism displays the day, date and month. This highly sophisticated complication not only acknowledges the number of days in each month, but also displays the year and will automatically adjust itself for the leap year. It has 42 hours of power reserve. The watch is presented in a 42mm, three-part case in handpolished stainless steel with a skeleton “salmon” colour dial and a see-through case back. The tourbillon’s cage sits resplendently in an aperture on the dial at 6 o’clock, with its incorporated seconds. Each cage is sequentially numbered on the top plate in the centre of the cage, matching the limited-edition number on the case. The watch has a light brown alligator strap with an additional black one. 2020 JAN / FEB
H. MOSER ET CIE-SWISS ALP WATCH DUBAI EDITION As a tribute to the long-standing partnership between the Seddiqi and Meylan families, H. Moser & Cie. has created two limited edition timepieces of just ten pieces featuring dials in brand new colourways. These two creations form part of H. Moserâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Concept series of watches, with neither logo nor indices. One is the Swiss Alp Watch Concept Dubai Limited Edition. Its classic and sensual rectangular case with soft, rounded corners is made from steel coated with a black DLC treatment. With its brand-new shade of radiant yellow, the pared-down dial is striking. A sapphire crystal with curved edges tops the watch while another forms part of the case-back. Inside is the hand wound HMC 324 Manufacture calibre. It has a minimum power reserve of four days which is indicated on the reverse side. The movement and its components are finished and decorated by hand. It is fastened with a black kudu leather strap.
HYT-H5 Three years of development led to the brand new proprietary 501 calibre, a single mechanism that harnesses the power of mechanical and fluid technology. The result: a timekeeper that is as beautiful as it is effective. The hand-wound mechanism sets a consistent pace by releasing precisely the right amount of energy for two contrasting immiscible liquids to flow inside the capillary tube to indicate the time. A domed sapphire glass is ingeniously curved around a bold stainless-steel case. The innovative neoralite external flange features cut-out vertical digits that glow in the dark. The flange is sculpted from a single piece of luminescent, Super-LumiNova filled, translucent material using a complex production process that involves 3D printing, moulding, injection and subtle grinding. The H5 by HYT comes in two limited editions, each of 25 pieces. Both feature green in combination with either black or grey.
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MEISTERSINGER-CIRCULARIS REVERSE The Circularis is MeisterSinger’s premium line known for presenting single-hand watches. Last year, the brand introduced a 25 pieces limited edition version that was exclusively designed for Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. The Circularis Reverse tells time in an anti-clockwise direction in correspondence with the Arabic script. The geometry of the watch differs little from a standard Circularis. It has a 43 mm stainless steel case covered by a domed sapphire crystal. Its case back has a flat sapphire crystal. The sunburst steel blue dial has the brand’s signature doubledigit hour numerals for a balanced appearance. The strap is saddle leather with a quick-release system, and an additional cordovan strap included. From a technical point of view, however, the watch is unique. To develop this anti-clockwise running timepiece, it became necessary to build in eleven new components. The result: a thoroughly redesigned movement in which the date also switches the other way around.
THE HUBLOT CLASSIC FUSION SPECIAL EDITION BRONZE ANTICLOCKWISE Limited to 100 pieces, this watch is a fusion of a timeless material and a non-traditional mechanism. This is Hublot’s first-ever watch made entirely from bronze, and also the first featuring an anti-clockwise movement. It was designed and produced at the Hublot Manufacture in Switzerland. Its 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10 O’clock “Arabic” number indexes are positioned such that they increment in a counter-clockwise direction on the dial, in concurrence with its counter-clockwise turning hands. Hublot’s HUB1105 Self-winding movement powers the anti-clockwise animation and is entirely new and developed in-house. Bronze is covered with a natural patina that protects it and lends it a distinct finish. The brushed bronze case, bezel and case-back give this watch a beautiful colour that contrasts with the grey satin-finished sunray dial with its micro blasted 3N gold-plated appliques. The strap is grey calf with gold stitching.
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The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M ‘James Bond’ Edition
AN EXCEPTIONAL DIVER
Omega’s special relationship with James Bond continues with a new watch for a new adventure
he release of a James Bond film is an event. So is the unveiling of the brands that will be associated with Her Majesty’s most celebrated servant. Since the 1995 release of Goldeneye, starring Pierce Brosnan, Omega has not only graced the wrist of James Bond but has enabled him to get out of some rather sticky situations. ‘No Time To Die,’ the latest and 25th Bond adventure, starring Daniel Craig, is scheduled for release in April. On his wrist will be a new, non-limited Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition. First launched in 1993, the Diver 300M has a legacy built on the real-life experiences of divers and style aficionados, while also being the quintessential wrist-watch of James Bond. Brosnan debuted as Bond wearing the Seamaster 300M Quartz Professional, a watch that would later earn the nickname: the Bond Watch. It was released in an era when mechanical watches had not yet fully recovered from the Quartz-attack, and there was still a preference for Quartz watches. When Bond undertook his next mission in 1997, the Diver 300M had the same 41mm steel case, the same
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wave-patterned blue dial, blue bezel, and five-link bracelet. It had the same 300m water-resistance and a helium escape valve at 10 o’clock. One thing was different though; it had a mechanical heart. This mechanical variant accompanied Bond on his next two adventures - The World Is Not Enough (1999) and Die Another Day (2002). With Brosnan’s departure, many questioned the relevance of Bond in a world where audiences demanded realism. So, Bond had to be reimagined once again. He showed a greater range of emotion, and the unrealistic gadgets largely disappeared. The Omega watch, however, remained. In the 2006 film Casino Royale, Daniel Craig debuted as Bond sporting two Omegas during the course of the film: a Seamaster Diver 300M and a 45.5mm Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Co-Axial Chronometer. In 2008’s Quantum of Solace, Craig wore a 42mm Planet Ocean 600M. In 2012, Craig once again sported two Omegas in Skyfall: a Planet Ocean 600M with a ceramic bezel and Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M.
The latest 300M 007 Edition that will feature in No Time To Die has been constructed with military needs in mind, and with input from actor Daniel Craig and members of the film’s production team. This collaboration, according to the brand, has brought invaluable insight to Omega’s watch developers and designers. Daniel Craig, commenting on the design process, said: “When working with Omega, we decided that a lightweight watch would be key for a military man like 007. I also suggested some vintage touches and colours to give the watch a unique edge. The final piece looks incredible.” Each Diver 300M 007 Edition has been crafted from Grade-Two Titanium. This unusually strong and lightweight material – found in the 42 mm case, bezel, bracelet and the adjustable buckle – makes it the perfect material to construct a light and durable watch for a military man like 007. The aluminium dial has a matte brownish-black finish, a colour that replicates the aged brown hue that certain vintage dials turn over time. This colour tone, referred to by collectors as “tropical,” delivers on the “vintage touches and colours” requested by Craig. The new bezel in titanium remains unidirectional but now has the same “tropical” hue on its aluminium insert, while the 60-minute scales are in cream.
This complements the colour of the applied indexes and hands filled with cream Super-LumiNova. A special new doming of the sapphire-crystal glass has also created a slightly slimmer watch than the standard Seamaster Diver 300M models. On the caseback, are a series of numbers, which follow the format for genuine military-issue watches. “0552” is a naval code-number, and “923 7697” is the number for a divers’ watch. The letter “A” signifies a watch with a screw-in crown, followed by Bond’s iconic agent number “007.” The number “62” refers to the year of the very first James Bond film. The caseback has a Naiad Lock, which keeps all of the engravings in correct alignment. Inside, the 300M 007 is driven by the Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8806, which has achieved the industry’s highest standards of precision, chronometric performance and magnetic resistance. The watch is available to customers either on a titanium mesh bracelet, or a five-striped NATO strap in dark brown, grey and beige - reminiscent of those used by the RAF with 007 engraved on the loop. The watch is presented in an exclusive brown fabric pouch. The watch is water-resistant to 30 bar (300 m) and comes with Omega’s full five-year warranty. 2020 JAN / FEB
HUES OF BLUE
A selection of four exceptional watches with blue dials
BLANCPAIN Villeret Ultraplate Elegance and discretion have characterized Blancpain’s Villeret models since their early days in the 1980s, and the latest 88-piece limited edition is no exception. The slim case, in platinum, measures 40 mm in diameter and is 7.40 mm thick. It is ringed by a delicately rounded double-stepped bezel. Within, a blue dial, stylish hands meticulously crafted in the shape of cut-out sage leaves, and applied Roman numeral hour-markers crafted in gold. Based on the renowned 1150 calibre, the handwound 11A4B Manufacture movement’s construction enables a constant energy pulse throughout its four days of powerreserve. The power-reserve indicator is displayed on the back to preserve the elegance of the dial. The watch is paired with a blue alligator strap.
CHOPARD L.U.C XPS Twist QF A slightly offset crown and an off-centred small seconds display at 7 o’clock are signatures of the Twist series within the L.U.C. collection. The 40mm case of the 250-piece limited series is crafted in ethical ‘Fairmined’ certified 18-carat white gold. While the date window obeys orthodoxy by remaining at 3 o’clock, the dial itself sees slightly different printing and a new dial finish in blue. Beneath the brand name on the dial, the mark Qualitie Fleurier is printed; a certification regarded as one of the most rigorous in the industry. This is in addition to the COSC certification. It beats to the rhythm of the L.U.C 96.26-L movement with automatic winding; equipped with a 22-carat gold micro-rotor and two stacked barrels based on Chopard Twin technology. Power Reserve is 65 hours, and Water Resistance is 30m. The strap is Blue alligator leather.
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GLASHUTTE-SEAQ PANORAMA DATE It gets its name from the distinctly more prominent date display at 4 o’clock. The blue dial with a sunray finish is contrasted by the hands, applied Arabic numerals and indexes in white. This watch is suitable for professional divers as it has a waterresistance up to 30 bar. The water-resistance of this model is enhanced by numerous details, such as the screw-down crown and a base plate secured by a centrally screwed sapphire crystal case back. The Glashütte watchmakers have successfully adapted the award-winning Calibre 36 to meet the considerable challenges of timekeeping underwater. It matches the stringent DIN and ISO standards for diver’s watches after having undergone a demanding 24-day test. An individual certificate documents each watch’s successful completion of the test. The watch is offered with three strap versions: a stable, flat stainlesssteel bracelet with 8-step fine adjustment mechanism; a robust, water-resistant nylon mesh strap, and a distinctive rubber strap with embossed design.
HARRY WINSTON EMERALD COLLECTION A collection inspired by the founder’s favourite diamond cut, now welcomes a larger, 33 mm case in 18-karat white gold. The octagonal architecture of the case is highlighted by bevelled edges and a lustrous shine. The sloping sides on the blue dial produce a gradient that darkens toward the edges; adding depth and volume. The hour markers are crafted in white gold, faceted and applied to the dial. The gold Harry Winston logo at 12 o’clock is balanced by a bevelled date window at 6 o’clock. It has a high-end Swiss mechanical automatic movement with a generous power reserve of 72 hours. The underside of the case offers a view of the 18-karat white gold skeletonized rotor and luxury finishes, including Côtes de Genève, rhodium plating and circular graining on the movement. Like all Harry Winston mechanical timepieces, the movement features a flat silicon balance spring to ensure reliable performance over the years.
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THE GREATEST PASSPORTS OF THE DECADE
The Rise of the freedom seekers
his past decade, our planet has witnessed the rise of many new trends and the unfortunate fall of past triumphs. But when it comes to the world of global mobility— positive democracy and increasing value in Passport Power— the 2010s truly left a lasting mark. According to the Passport Index, the leading global mobility intelligence platform, the greatest passports of the decade are not European, nor are they North American. Passport Index’ unique real-time ranking of the world’s passports reveals quite astonishing trends and results. And
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although these usual suspects have shuffled at the top of the rankings year after year, it was the least expected that quietly migrated to the top of the charts, making the most of the decade. Over the last ten years, the Passport Index identified a common trend in island nations surfing slowly higher in the ranks as the fastest-growing passports, African nations swiftly escaping the lowest-ranking bottom, and many countries within the European Union remaining stagnant and comfortable at the top.
The World is Opening up Contrary to popular perception, in an era of building walls and closing borders, the world has considerably opened up in the past decade. According to Passport Index’ World Openness Score, “the world has never been more open than today”, shared Armand Arton, Founder and President of Arton Capital. The current real-time World Openness Score is valued at 21,360. If every single country were to travel freely one to another, the absolute openness score would equate to 39,601, suggesting that 54% of our world is in fact, open in 2019 and keeps growing year after year. “At an average increase of 4% year-over-year, it would be incredible to assume that by 2035 the entire world be open for travel,” added Arton. Comfortable at the Top It comes as no surprise that UK, Denmark, Sweden, Finland, Germany, Luxembourg, France, Italy and the Netherlands have
been amongst the Top 5 most powerful passports ranking for the last decade. Over the years, others including Japan and Singapore have joined the pact, however this list of remarkably all European Union nations, are the only ones who have remained strong, consistent, and comfortable at the top. Unfortunately, being at the very top means there is only one other way to go— down. While in 2010 the UK dominated the highest-ranking list, by 2019 it has dropped down to 5th place, sharing its new rank with Canada and New Zealand as well as five other European nations. After Brexit, the UK will either see its past glory return, or it may fall even lower. One notable absence is the USA. Under Trump’s Administration, the American passport has received little to no attention. Strengthening the US passport should most certainly have qualified in Trump’s promise to “Make America Great Again” — but alas, increasing the freedom of global mobility for its citizens has been largely ignored under his administration.
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The Rise of the Underdogs Many countries have realized the importance of the power of their passport. With a mission to improve diplomatic relations with the rest of the world and a focus to provide citizens with increased global mobility; the sky is the limit for any countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s passport. Throughout this decade, the following underdogs became a testament to the power of breaking down walls and borders as barriers, and seeing them as gateways to growth, freedom, and opportunity. Kicking off the Top 10 Greatest Passports of the Decade is the South Pacific island nation of Vanuatu in 10th place, showing a remarkable 70% increase in its passport power after gaining 53 visa waivers. Another Southeast Asian island nation, Timor Leste comes next in 9th place with an impressive +55 visa waivers, jumping up from 86th position on the Global rankings, to 48th place. Closely behind, and once again in the Pacific, Micronesia takes 8th place with a 116 Mobility Score (MS) after gaining 57 visa waivers. Palau and the Marshall Islands share the 7th position, both
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scoring a remarkable +58 visa waivers in the past ten years. Championing in 6th place with a nearly 110% increase in ranking after gaining 63 visa waivers, is another ambitious duo, Moldova and Georgia â&#x20AC;&#x201D; two former Soviet republics in Eastern Europe. Proudly making it to the Top 5 Greatest passports of this decade with +64 visa waivers is Bosnia and Herzegovina, up 119% from 2010 to 2019, with a 118 MS. With an additional 65 visa-free and visa-on-arrival destinations for its citizens, Albania takes 4th place, increasing 131% from its original score back in 2010. Ukraineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s passport takes 3rd place, jumping +69 and scoring a grand 141 MS in 2019. Despite political turmoil in the last few months, Taiwan, the Republic of China (ROC) exceptionally displays a 143% increase in ranking, taking 2nd place with +79 visa waivers between 2010 and 2019! And stealing the spotlight in 1st place with an outstanding 161% increase in its passport power between 2010 and 2019, is the Unicorn of the Decade.
The Unicorn At the top of the rank as the world’s Greatest Passport of the Decade is the United Arab Emirates, gaining a total of +111 visa waivers, most of which have taken place in the last 3 years with an outstanding 161% increase in passport power and shining in 1st place with a record-breaking 179 Mobility Score. Since the inception of the Passport Force Initiative in 2017, the Passport Index closely followed and documented the progress of the UAE passport. As their goal to rise within the Top 5 was achieved three years ahead of time, their momentum and mission grew stronger as they strived to reach 1st place before the end of 2018. Triumphing and maintaining the lead for over a year to date, the UAE’s meteoric rise became one of the most intriguing examples of a successfully accomplished national goal. On their Way Upwards The ideal direction for any nation’s passport is up, but these two countries have displayed their will to strive higher unlike any other. Both Angola and China were two of the lowest placed countries ten years ago that made substantial leap forward to date. In 2010, Angola held a 42 Mobility Score that jumped to 61 by 2019, while China gained astonishing +37 points to reach a Mobility Score of 80 today. Escaped the Bottom One of the most fascinating discoveries of the decade is
witnessing the rise of the fallen in low-ranking African countries who have not only shown improvement in their ranks but have managed to escape the Bottom 10 over the past decade; including Angola, Burundi, Comoros Islands, Djibouti, and Equatorial Guinea. Fell to the Bottom The war in Syria has forced it down to 3rd place as the world’s weakest passport. In 2010 Syria was not even on the bottom 10 list. This is an important piece of information that relays the correlation between the economic and political state of a country and the power of its passport, and can be seen once again with Yemen, the Palestinian Territories, and Libya to round up the bottom 10 list. Stuck at the Bottom At the bottom — the differences are shocking. Evaluating the world’s weakest passports did not seem like a chore at first; mostly war-inflicted and underdeveloped countries make up the countries at the lowest end of the ranking. But once we look closely at the differences at the begging and the end of this decade, the political state of our world is unveiled. Both Afghanistan and Iraq have remained the weakest ranking passport for the last ten years, with ongoing conflict tracing back to early 2000s, as well as countries long facing unrest, including Iran and North Korea. Shifting minutely year after year, the following low-ranking countries have been stuck at the bottom of the list, providing their citizens access to less than 20% of our world. 2020 JAN / FEB
The 2019 Winners This past year inspired much progress and surprising growth amongst nations adopting a global vision. The UAE preserved its global lead, adding another 12 countries to its ever-growing mobility score. In the meantime, Qatar also gained +12 visa waivers throughout 2019, making its way up the ranks with Rwanda closely behind with +11. Ukraine, Macao, and Indonesia all added +10 to their passport power, and Brunei ended the year with +9 visa waivers. Another country amongst the list of The Fastest-Growing Passports of 2019, is Saudi Arabia which appears with +9 visa waivers, suggesting that the leading passport may have inspired some successors. Saudi Arabia announced its bold vision to grow and diversify their economy and position the country to play a leading role in global development with the launch of NEOM, a new city for innovation and human progress. It comes as no surprise that strengthening global relations and improving passport power is
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an imperative tool to accomplish this national goal by 2030. This year also displayed an increase of passport power with nations offering Citizenship-by-Investment Programs (CBI). One of the strongest benefits CBIs offer investors and their families is granting them the freedom of global mobility, showing beyond doubt, that the value of having a strong passport in hand has truly become a global trend. Cyprus and St. Kitts and Nevis are amongst the ones who made the biggest leap forward, gaining +9 visa waivers in 2019. The boost in passport power has also benefited Malta (+8), Antigua & Barbuda, Bulgaria, Montenegro and Portugal (+7), as well as Dominica and Saint Lucia (+6). Grenada came last but nevertheless showed improvement with (+4). If this decade taught us one thing; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s that access and freedom are vital catalysts to evolution and progress. There is only one way to unparalleled benefits and opportunities for a brighter future, both for a nation and its citizens, and that is enforcing the importance and power of an increased global mobility.
Travel more. Travel smarter. Unleash your travel freedom. Enable your global mobility.
World's passports in your pocket. 2020 JAN / FEB
The Audi S8
A LUXURIOUS PERFORMER
The new Audi S8 features innovations that enhance the driving experience while cocooned in luxury
he new Audi S8 sets the benchmark for the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Vorsprung durch Technik ethos with its engine, mild-hybrid technology, innovative predictive active suspension, dynamic-all-wheel steering, and Quattro drive with sport differential. The design, typical of Audi, combines elegance with athleticism, while the interior is plush with luxury and innovation. The S8 offers sports-car-like emotion and performance but with the comfort and efficiency of a luxury sedan. Any appreciation of the S8 has to begin with its beating heart: the V8 four-litre with biturbo and mild-hybrid technology. According to Audi, it can deliver 571 PS (563hp) and 800 Nm of torque. It can take the S8 from zero to 100 kmph in just 3.8 seconds, quite impressive for a car with a dry weight of 2,230 kilograms. It has an electronically limited top speed of 250 kmph. The Iron-lined cylinder barrels in the aluminium crankcase reduce friction and enhance its smoothness. Automatically actuated flaps in the exhaust system create an impressive sound. The mild-hybrid system works continuously to reduce fuel consumption, which averages at around 11 litres-per-100 kilometres. Its 48-volt belt alternator starter and the additional
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lithium-ion battery enable coasting with the engine switched off, fast restart and an extended start-stop range. Fuel savings of up to 0.8 litres per 100 kilometres are possible in everyday driving. The cylinder on-demand system, which deactivates individual cylinders in low-load operating situations, provides for additional efficiency. The S8â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s combination of innovative suspension components enables it to be a smooth luxury sedan or a dynamic, sporty sedan. It comes with the predictive active suspension as standard, which in combination with the air suspension, can lift or push down each wheel separately via electromechanical actuators. The car can, therefore, actively reduce the pitch or roll during acceleration or braking. The Audi drive select system offers a choice of five profiles. Of these, comfort + mode is new and is designed to make cornering a comfortable experience. The body leans into curves by as much as 3 degrees to reduce the lateral acceleration acting on the occupants. Dynamic mode is for precision and sets maximum roll angle during fast cornering to just around 2.5 degrees, as compared to the 5 degrees of the standard suspension. The dynamic-all-wheel steering allows the independent
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adjustment of the steering angles at the front and rear axles. It works in conjunction with the sport differential to actively transfer the torque between the rear wheels during fast cornering. When turning into or accelerating in a curve, most of the torque is directed to the outside wheel. This literally pushes the car into the curve and minimises understeer. In the case of oversteer, the sport differential on the rear axle transfers the drive torque to the inside wheel to stabilise the car. Inside, the standard comfort customised contour seats have a sporty look. They feature wide-ranging power adjustment, pneumatically adjustable side bolsters and separate threestage heating for each seat. They are also optionally available with ventilation and massage functions. Customers can choose between Valcona and Unikat leather. The S8 offers 38 driver assistance systems divided into the “City” and “Tour” packages. One standout among these is the Adaptive cruise assist, part of the “Tour” package. It combines the functions of adaptive cruise control, traffic jam assist, lane tracking and predictive efficiency assist to brake and accelerate the S8 in anticipation of the conditions ahead. Another is Audi’s pre-sense 360° which can detect an impending side impact to raise the body by as much as 80 millimetres allowing the car to better absorb the impact energy. The brain behind the driver assistance systems is a high-
performance processing unit, the central driver assistance controller (zFAS). It continuously computes a differentiated model of the vehicle’s surroundings based on the data provided by the sensors. Fully equipped, the S8 has five radar sensors, six cameras, twelve ultrasound sensors and a laser scanner on board. The driver controls nearly all functions via two large touchenabled displays or via natural speech control. Amazon’s Alexa is also available as an option. All driving-relevant displays appear in the Audi virtual cockpit, which can be switched between two views: instruments or map. There is also an optional head-up display which displays information on the windshield. The vehicle’s sound system features active noise cancellation to eliminate intrusive cabin noise for the ultimate in comfort. The exterior, as always with Audis, is a minimalist play between metallic slats and chrome lines. The headlights are headlined by the HD Matrix range, which comprises 138 LED headlights with laser light. The laser can be recognised by an X-shaped trim and an ambient blue light. The laser is activated above a speed of 70 kmph to double the range of the high beam. Audi also offers OLED rear lights that emit homogeneous light. When the driver unlocks the S8 using a remote control key, a dynamic lighting sequence runs at the front and rear. 2020 JAN / FEB
The Aston Martin DBX
VERSATILITY EXPLORED Aston Martin’s first SUV is a bold step into an uncharted territory
ast November, we witnessed a landmark moment in Aston Martin’s illustrious 106-year history when it unveiled the DBX. The DBX is bold in its style as well as ambition. It is the British marque’s first SUV, its first-ever full-size 5-seat model, and built for a previously unexplored segment. It is designed to be versatile, a luxury SUV with the graceful lines of a sports coupe. It is an off-roader with sports car-like dynamism on-road. The unveiling of the DBX was the culmination of an extensive development programme that began with virtual development back in 2015, followed by physical testing in Wales last year. Dr Andy Palmer, Aston Martin Lagonda President & Group CEO, said: “DBX is a car that will give many people their first experience of Aston Martin ownership. As such, it needed
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to be true to the core values established in our sports cars, while also providing the lifestyle versatility expected of a luxury SUV. To have produced such a beautiful, hand-built, yet technologically advanced car is a proud moment for Aston Martin.” The foundation of DBX is an all-new dedicated SUV platform constructed with bonded aluminium. The result is a body structure that is both light and stiff. With an overall kerb weight of 2,245 kilograms, the structure was designed to allow maximum room in the cabin while also enabling the DBX to deliver on-road and off-road performance. The interior of the DBX has been luxuriously handcrafted in typical Aston Martin style. Its structure offers ample space for headroom and legroom for both, the front and rear passengers.
The full-length glass panoramic roof and frameless door glass add to the sense of space and light. The use of sports car seat packaging in the front not only provides the driver with extra support and long-distance driving comfort, but also offers better knee and footwell clearance for those sitting behind. The 632 litres of boot space and split-folding rear seats can accommodate a large variety of luggage. The seats are trimmed in full-grain leather by Bridge of Weir. Innovative use of materials includes luxurious Alcantara finish for the headlining and electric roof blind, a fabric made from 80% wool and a new flax composite as an alternative to carbon fibre. The elegantly crafted centre console offers convenient storage and can be customised from a solid piece of wood, such as Walnut. One finds judicious use of metal, glass and wood throughout the cabin. A 10.25” TFT screen sits elegantly flush in the centre console, while a 12.3” TFT screen provides a wealth of information to the driver. Apple CarPlay comes as standard, as does a 360-degree camera system and ambient lighting that offers 64 different colours in two zones. The DBX is Powered by a new version of the 4-litre, twinturbocharged V8 engine found in DB11 and Vantage. In the DBX, it delivers 550PS, 700NM of torque, 0 to 100 kmph in 4.5 seconds and a top speed of 290 kmph. The power is transmitted through the nine-speed torque converter automatic gearbox. It is assisted by an all-wheel-drive system with active differentials featuring an active central differential and an electronic rear limited-slip differential (eDiff). The DBX’s adaptive triple volume air suspension can raise
or lower the ride height by 50mm while also enabling variable spring stiffness. The electric anti-roll control system (eARC) is capable of 1,400Nm of anti-roll force per axle. These two systems, in conjunction with electronic adaptive dampers, can limit DBX’s body roll and enables the sports car-like handling. Aerodynamics also plays an essential part in enhancing DBX’s performance and practicability. For example, the car’s daytime running lights have integrated aerodynamic ducts that channel air through the front wheel arches and along the side, helping to reduce both drag and lift while also cooling the brakes. Air flows cleanly over the roof, through the rear wing, over the rear window and on to the rear flip. This unique design detail allows the rear screen to self-clear on the move. Also, using computational aeroacoustics technology, the engineers have minimised cabin noise at high speed. The DBX is unmistakably an Aston Martin in appearance, from the signature ‘DB’ grille at the front, through to the sculptured sides and flow lines, to the tailgate with a flip that draws inspiration from Vantage. Then there are the beautiful details like the hidden side glass seals on the frameless doors and glass B-pillar finishers that add elegance to the SUV. “I can’t emphasise enough how incredibly exciting and significant DBX is for Aston Martin,” said Dr Palmer. “Through its development alone, this beautiful SUV has already taken the company into new territories and in inspiring directions... We have delivered this model through our expertise, ...[and] also by garnering invaluable experience and knowledge from external counsel, including our Female Advisory Board.”
2020 JAN / FEB
Ferrari’s latest Grand Tourer is a blend of heritage, style and technology “
ith its distinctive flair and style, the car is a contemporary representation of the carefree, pleasurable way of life that characterised Rome in the 1950s and ‘60s. The Ferrari Roma offers discerning clients the finesse and refinement that brings the concept of “la Dolce Vita” right up to date.” - reads a statement by Ferrari introducing its newest car. Unveiled last November, during a private client event, in the Eternal City whose name it bears, Ferrari’s Roma is mid-front-engined “2+” coupé. It is a grand tourer to rival the ones from Aston Martin, Bentley, Mercedes and Porsche. While other performance automotive brands have introduced SUVs to their line-up with the aim of enticing new demographics to their brand, Ferrari has opted to offer the Roma as a tamer and behaved grand tourer instead. Make no mistake, Roma may be tame by Ferrari’s standards, but it can post some impressive figures compared to its competitors. It is powered by the latest variant of Ferrari’s V-8 twin-turbo and is paired with an eightspeed dual-clutch transmission. Its sensuous lines undoubtedly make it one of the most beautiful Ferraris in recent times. The Roma’s exterior design draws inspiration from the sporty elegance found in some of the most legendary front-engined
The Ferrari Roma
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grand touring Ferraris of the 1960s, cars possessing simple yet elegant, fastback coupé designs. The Roma, therefore, also features clean, elegant lines and balanced proportions. To underscore its minimalism, all superfluous detailing has been removed. The rather sober front of the car looks sculpted from a single block of metal, creating an overhanging shark nose like effect. The wide front bonnet and sinuous wings perfectly flow into one another, in line with Ferrari’s traditional styling cues. To preserve its minimalist elegance, any vents or superfluous decorations are missing. For instance, engine cooling is guaranteed by surfaces locally perforated only where strictly necessary, thus leading to an all-new design for the grille. The two linear full-LED headlights, which lend the front of the car a distinctive character, are traversed by a horizontal light strip that brings a sense of tension to the car, reminiscent of the iconic Ferrari Monza SP. The rear of the car is characterised by its distinct tail while the small, wraparound rear screen incorporates an active aero device. The taillights comprise small, minimalist linear strips that look like gems set into the volume. A compact, aerodynamic diffuser incorporates the fences and the exhausts.
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Romaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s turbo charged V8 comes from the family of engines that have won the overall International Engine of the Year award four years running. In this version, the engine reaches 620 CV (612 hp) at 7,500 rpm. This combination is capable of accelerating the Roma from 0 to 100 kmph in 3.4 seconds. The V8 is coupled with the new 8-speed DCT gearbox that was introduced on the SF90 Stradale. The bodyshell and chassis have been redesigned to incorporate the latest weight reduction and advanced production technologies. We are informed that 70 per cent of its components are entirely new. The mid-front-engined Roma has the best weight-to-power ratio in its segment at 2.37 kg/cv. Taken as a whole, the Roma should deliver balanced handling dynamics and responsiveness. Ferrariâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s engineers have developed several leading-edge technologies for the Roma, the most noticeable one being a mobile rear spoiler which is integrated into the rear screen. While it is designed to blend into the carâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s elegant design when retracted, it produces the downforce essential when automatically deploying at high speeds. The increase in front load is mainly entrusted to a pair of vortex generators that create a ground effect by introducing a concentrated and consistent vortex, as well as managing the wake of the front wheel to ensure efficient generation of load. Information about the interior of Roma is quite limited. However, we do know that Roma makes a departure from other Ferraris which are typically built around the figure of the driver. The cockpit of the Roma features a new approach to the interior known as a Dual Cockpit concept. It comprises two safety cells, one each for the driver and passenger, that is almost symmetrical in appearance. The surfaces and functions are organically distributed in the cockpit, which is defined by elements that unfold seamlessly around the Dual Cockpit concept. This design not only leads to a more organic distribution of space and functions, but it also invites the passenger to feel involved. 2020 JAN / FEB
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FERDINAND’S SPIRIT Porsche’s all-electric, all-wheel-drive sports sedan fulfils Ferdinand Porsche’s vision
aycan, composed of two words of Turkic origin can be roughly translated as the “soul of a spirited young horse.” According to Porsche that’s exactly what the first fully electric Porsche will be: lively, impetuous, vigorous, light-footed on long stretches without tiring, and free-spirited. The first Taycan variants launched last November, were the Taycan Turbo S and Taycan Turbo. Less powerful variants of these all-wheel-drive vehicles will follow, according to the brand, starting with the crossover derivative Taycan Cross Turismo in 2020. Most would assume that Taycan’s electric heritage at Porsche begins with the 918 Spyder which broke the lap record at the Nürburgring, or the 919 Hybrid which won six endurance championships. In fact, it goes back all the way to the founder, before Porsche even existed as a brand. That’s because Ferdinand Porsche, was fascinated by electric mobility.
In 1893, the 18-year-old installed an electric lighting system in his parents’ house, before he joined the Béla Egger electric company in Vienna as a mechanic. Four years later, as head of testing, he designed his first vehicles - with electric drives. He also designed a car powered by an octagonal electric motor, the world’s first functional hybrid car and the world’s first allwheel-drive electric race car. In 1905, a Porsche designed battery-powered race car reached speeds in excess of 130 kmph. However, the excessive weight and lack of development in battery technology eventually led Porsche, the genius and the brand he founded, to switch to internal combination engines. That is, until the turn of this century when lithium-ion batteries were suitable for use in vehicles. The Taycan, therefore, is not just a big step forward for Porsche but is also a link with the very origin of the brand. The flagship Turbo S version of the Taycan can generate up to 560 kW (761 PS) over-boost power in combination with
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Launch Control. This translates to a 0-100 kmph acceleration in 2.8 seconds. It has a range of up to 412 kilometres. With the Taycan Turbo, the respective numbers are 500 kW (680 PS), 3.2 seconds and a range of up to 450 kilometres; according to WLTP in both cases. Both have a top speed of 260 kmph. The Taycan is the first production vehicle with a system voltage of 800 volts; pulled directly from the 919 Hybrid racer. On the road, it means the battery can be recharged in just over five minutes using DC from a high-power charging network for a range of up to 100 kilometres. The charging time for 5 to 80 per cent state of charge is 22.5 minutes, under ideal conditions, and the maximum charging power is 270 kW. The overall capacity of the battery is 93.4 kWh. The car can be charged with up to eleven kW of AC at home. Both Taycan variants have two electric machines, one each on the front and rear axle. The electric engine, transmission and pulse-controlled inverter are each combined into a compact drive module which delivers the highest power density among the electric powertrains in the market thus far. The innovative two-speed transmission is installed on the rear axle. The first gear is for acceleration from a standing start, while the long gear ratio of the second gear delivers power with efficiency. Porsche uses a centrally networked control system to analyse and synchronise all chassis systems in real-time. The cockpit of the Taycan has an entirely new architecture. The freestanding, curved instrument cluster is complemented by a central, 10.9-inch infotainment display. A display on the passenger side is optional. All user interfaces have a completely
new design. Switches and buttons have been minimised, and instead, there are touch or voice controls. The Taycan has an entirely leather-free interior for the first time; featuring innovative recycled materials instead. “Foot garages” – recesses in the battery where the rear footwell is – ensures better sitting comfort in the rear while also allowing for low vehicle height. Two luggage compartments are available: the front compartment has a capacity of 81 litres and the rear 366 litres. With its clean, puristic design, the Taycan signals the beginning of a new era. At the same time, it retains the unmistakable Porsche design DNA. There are also innovative elements such as the glass-effect Porsche logo, which has been integrated into the light bar at the rear. With a Cd value from 0.22, the aerodynamically optimised basic shape makes a significant contribution to low energy consumption and a longer range. Another distinguishing feature of the Taycan is its sound; specifically engineered not only to act as audio feedback to the driver, but also as a distinct signature of the car - just as the boxer engine sound has done for Porsches for so many years. “We promised a true Porsche for the age of electromobility,” said Michael Steiner, Member of the Executive Board of Porsche AG – Research and Development. “A fascinating sports car that not only excites in terms of its technology and driving dynamics, but also sparks a passion in people all over the world, just like its legendary predecessors have done. Now we are delivering on this promise.” 2020 JAN / FEB
Last year, Massachusetts based Alaka’i Technologies unveiled Skai - the world’s first air mobility solution powered by the hydrogen fuel cell. Skai is the result of a collaboration between BMW’s Designworks and an in-house team of highly distinguished aerospace experts, engineers, and veteran pilots. Skai has a sleek, uncluttered design featuring a wrap-around canopy that offers passengers a panoramic view. The fuel cells used in the Skai are 95 per cent reusable with the remaining five per cent being 99 per cent recyclable, according to Alaka’i. Skai can seat up to five passengers or can carry a maximum payload of around 500 kilograms. It can fly for up to four hours with a range of about 650 kilometres. It can be refuelled from empty to full in less than 10 minutes. Skai has three hydrogen fuel cells that power the six, quiet, efficient electric motors of the six rotors. These rotors enable Skai to be an electric vertical takeoff and landing vehicle. Skai’s architecture is designed to be reliable and fault-tolerant for optimal safety and security. In case one of the rotors fail, Skai can carry on to its destination. If two fail simultaneously, Skai can land safely. Even if all the rotors fail, the airframe has a built-in parachute that will deploy to bring the carbon-composite airframe gently back to earth. Alaka’i Technologies has already started Skai’s certification program with the FAA. Once certified, Alaka’i plans to unveil the Piloted version first, followed by the autonomous versions. Their potential uses include personal mobility, emergency responses, and freight distribution. If it fulfils its potential, it is set to become one of the safest, cleanest and most versatile of all the air mobility solutions in the market. 84 JAN / FEB 2020
HUAWEI GT2 WATCH
Available in two case sizes – 42 mm and 46 mm – the watch has an elegant look with a narrow bezel. The display appears to float close to the surface thanks to its 3D glass. The 1.39-inch OLED display is quite bright, at 1,000 nits, making it outdoor-readable. Inside, the Kirin A1 chipset, coupled with the LiteOS, has 14 days of battery life according to Huawei but will reduce upon usage. Bluetooth range is one of the best at up to 150 meters. Sensors include: Accelerometer, Gyroscope, Geomagnetic, Optical heart rate, Ambient light, Air pressure and Capacitive. Total storage is 4GB but only about 2GB is available to the user. It has a builtin microphone, speaker and Freebuds 3 connectivity.
SAINT LAURENT RIVE DROITE
Saint Laurent Rive Droite offers luxurious lifestyle goods created by Anthony Vaccarello and his team. In parallel with Paris Photo 2019, the brand launched an exhibition of unique cameras by Leica - the camera preferred by photographers such as Jeanloup Sieff, Henri CartierBresson, Eugène Smith. The models presented for sale during the exhibition included the 0 Series, M3, III G and the M6 1984. There were also some collector’s items such as the Leica M-P10 2019, Q2, the Leica D-Lux 7 and the rare M-P Rolf Sachs Edition.
BOSE AUDIO SUNGLASSES
These are Sunglasses that can play music and take calls. They are also the first to work with Bose’s new audio augmented-reality platform. As a result, it can deliver audio feedback – such as to give directions or location details - based on the wearer’s GPS location and the direction they are facing. The sunglasses are available in two styles: Alto with classic angular lenses for larger heads and Rondo with rounded lenses for smaller heads. There is a microphone near each temple and sound is enabled by tiny speakers in each arm. Bose claims that these are its smallest ever audio system. Even though the sound is clearly audible to the wearer, very little leaks to the people around. It weighs in at around 45 grams.
VAONIS STELLINA PORTABLE SMART TELESCOPE
An aesthetically pleasing and user-friendly telescope that does not have an eyepiece. Instead, the motorized telescope powered by a battery good for about 10 hours, connects to and displays high-resolution images on the user’s smartphone via an app. The telescope uses a back-illuminated image sensor with 2.4 µm unit pixel and 14 bit ADC developed by Sony, in conjunction with an innovative lens architecture, to produce these images. The app enables the user to choose from hundreds of objects or set coordinates in the night sky for the telescope to capture. It then automatically locates the object and in a matter of seconds, sends images directly on the smartphone or tablet. It has a dimension of 49x39x13 cm and weighs 11.2 kg. 2020 JAN / FEB
Ai-Da Robot and gallerist Aidan Meller (Photographer Nicky Johnston)
ORIGINAL ART FROM ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE An art exhibition at Oxford University has created a buzz in the tech and art world simultaneously
etween June 12 and July 6 of last year, Oxford University hosted an art exhibition titled “Unsecured Futures.” It was billed as the world’s first exhibition to showcase the solo work of a robot-artist called Ai-Da - “the first ultra-realistic humanoid AI artist.” According to gallerist Aidan Meller, the driving force behind AiDa and the exhibition, the artworks by the AI powered robot have already brought in more than $1 million. Ai-Da, named after the world’s first female computer programmer – Englishwoman Ada Lovelace (18151852), is neither the first robot to produce art nor the first attempt at creating art using AI. Non-humanoid art-producing robots have been realised before, for example by Pindar Van Arman, the American artist and roboticist based in Washington DC. Similar attempts have also been made by Chinese artists Liu Xiaodong and Sougwen Chung as well as others around the world. There have also been several experiments linking art and AI. This March, Sotheby’s held its first auction of an artwork created using artificial intelligence in London. The installation by Mario Klingemann, another pioneer of the AI art scene, sold for £40,000. This was the first auction of an
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AI produced collection in Europe and was considered to be a disappointment, especially when compared to Christie’s first AI art auction last October in New York, where the top seller fetched $432,500. Ai-Da’s uniqueness stems from the combination of using AI to produce works of art with a humanoid robot that can also express opinions. Margaret Boden OBE, Research Professor of Cognitive Science, has defined creativity as something that is new, surprising and of value. Meller has used this definition to qualify Ai-Da’s work as art. He claims that Ai-Da produces something new and completely unexpected every time she creates an artwork, even though the subject may be the same in every case. Meller also reveals that she has been intentionally instructed to avoid realism and to focus on abstract interpretations of the subject; to exhibit her creative process, while at the same time, to nullify detractors who may want to dismiss her as a glorified printer. Meller is the spearhead of a collaborative effort involving teams of researchers at Oxford and Leeds University. The team at Oxford comprised of engineers specialising on the input side of the creative process by using face recognition cameras placed in Ai-Da’s eyes and
developing the AI algorithms to interpret what she sees. The team from Leeds University focused on the output side of the creative process by developing the robotic hands that draw Ai-Da’s interpretation of the subject. Ai-Da’s creative process begins with her scanning the subject through her cameras. The subject is synthesised through her AI brain, which then sends instructions to her robotic arm to draw, with pencil, abstract line drawings of the subject. To ensure that each rendering of a subject is unique, the pathways that generate the art are deleted as soon as the rendering is done. Ai-Da is capable of producing one of these renderings in about 45 minutes. These monotone drawings may be treated as the finished product or may be used as starting points for other neural networks to generate sculptures or colourful abstract paintings. If Ai-Da’s drawings are to be rendered into a sculpture, they are forwarded to an uncredited specialist based in Sweden, who produces a 3D printed wax mould to cast the sculpture in bronze. If the drawings are to be turned into a painting, Aidan Gomez – a researcher at Oxford University - translates the lines of the drawing into Cartesian plane co-ordinates and inputs them into another AI system to create abstract paintings. These are rendered onto a canvas with paint and brush by Suzie Emery – a human artist.
Ai-DA with her Paintings (Photographer Victor Frankowski)
The exhibit at Oxford University showcased several of Ai-Da’s pencil sketches, alongside a collection of colourful abstract paintings based on Ai-Da’s interpretation of an oak tree and a bee. These pieces were complemented by pencil sketches of Alan Turing, a pioneer in the conceptualisation of AI, and works by Karel Čapek, the Czech writer who coined the term “robot.” To demonstrate the dexterity of the AI behind Ai-Da, monitor screens at various locations played a video of her reciting poetry that she has composed. She was tasked with reinterpreting in rhyme, the prose of renowned literary giants such as Oscar Wilde and Fyodor Dostoevsky recounting their experiences in prison. As with any innovation, Ai-Da has her share of detractors, from the usual ‘AI is going to replace us’ to ‘it cannot be Art without emotion,’ which AiDa readily admits she does not possess. Others have raised serious concerns about this technology being used for forgery, and the creeping in of social bias as witnessed recently with some social-media AI bots. Meller is not phased by the criticism. On the contrary, he welcomes it. He has stated repeatedly that his primary objective with this project is to instigate a conversation about Artificial Intelligence. Given the buzz surrounding Ai-Da, one would have to say ‘mission accomplished.’
2020 JAN / FEB
The Bell 525 Relentless VIP helicopter offers high-tech with high-end luxury
he Bell 525 Relentless, which made its regional debut last year at the Dubai Air Show, is the brand’s newest commercial helicopter to market. Billed as a generational leap forward in the luxury air mobility sector because of its world-first fly-by-wire flight controls, industry-leading drive system performance, smooth and quiet ride, best-in-class performance figures, distinctive exterior design features, and a spacious cabin with ample room to craft beautiful, bespoke interiors. It is designed to be a perfect blend of style and technology. “At the top end of our commercial portfolio, we have the Bell 525, which is a 16 to 19 seat helicopter,” explained Patrick Moulay, Bell’s Senior Vice President, Commercial Business - International. “I would say that it’s probably the most advanced commercial helicopter that has ever been developed. It is the first commercial helicopter with fly-by-wire controls, and we believe it’s a gamechanger. In the Middle East, we see an opportunity for the aircraft on the corporate VIP segment, but that will be a niche for customers who are looking for the ultimate in terms of safety, comfort, speed and of course, luxury.” Mecaer Aviation Group (MAG), an acclaimed designer and manufacturer of high-end cabin comfort systems, has been commissioned to design a new innovative interior with enhanced amenities tailored for Bell 525 Relentless customers. “Along with the MAGnificent interior, the Bell 525 provides an unprecedented level of luxury, style, and comfort and introduces enhanced features and technology that set the Bell 525 apart from any other VIP aircraft,” added Moulay. In addition to a broad choice of finishing and seating configurations, customers can also add on these exclusive features: The In-Flight Entertainment Enhanced Lounge (I-FEEL) provides internal Wi-Fi, Moving Maps, AudioVideo Functions, Ambient Light Controls, and ICS Isolation; all of which may be controlled from the user’s paired smart device or smartwatch. The Electro-Chromic Window Controls fade from Clear to Full Tint and are also controlled by a paired smart device or smartwatch. The Speech Interference Level Enhanced Noise System (SILENS) is an interior panel with a limousine-style privacy window that reduces cabin noise to such low levels that passengers can have conversations without wearing headsets. Large central and aft-facing cabinets with additional storage and monitors that retract into the console. The Bell 525’s Fly-By-Wire technology will, according
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to Bell, significantly increases safety through reduced pilot workload and enhanced situational awareness. Its rotor drive system not only complies with the latest EASA rules for run-dry performance, it is setting a new benchmark for robustness and run-dry capability, thus minimising single-point failures. The 525 is equipped with the Integrated Vehicle Health Management (IVHM) & Health and Usage Monitoring System (HUMS), both of which make it easier for maintainers to diagnose failures which in turn translates to faster maintenance turnaround times. The IVHM system is fully supported by Bell through its Mission Link, which allows operators to access how their aircraft is performing relative to all other aircraft in the fleet. The aircraft will also be the first commercial helicopter to incorporate the intuitive Garmin G5000H, a touchscreen avionics suite for enhanced situational awareness that reduces hand and eye movements for the pilot in the flight deck. While the 525 is a new player in the market, the Bell 505 has established itself as a smaller alternative for the VIP luxury air mobility market. “The Bell 505 is our entrylevel aircraft, and we have already delivered over 200 worldwide. The aircraft is extremely cost-effective to run, and we are seeing interest from Middle East customers for various applications. It can be configured for single or dual pilot use, has a dual FADEC engine, a full glass cockpit, so it’s a nice aircraft for the price point,” says Moulay. The after-sales market is an important area of focus for the brand says Moulay: “As our installed fleet continues to grow, we want to ensure that we are delivering innovative and timely solutions to support our customers, such as our Customer Advantage Plans, providing cost predictability and transparency while protecting aircraft value over time. We are also continuing to grow and improve our network of approved maintenance centres to provide local service and support.” With regards to the future of air mobility, Moulay is optimistic. “As road congestion continues to rise and space on the ground becomes limited, we must also solve transportation challenges through flight – and that’s where Bell’s urban air mobility vision comes into play. This is a bit further down the line, but the development is happening right now.” Bell is a subsidiary of Textron Inc., a multi-industry company whose other brands include Cessna, Beechcraft, Hawker, Jacobsen, Kautex, Lycoming, E-Z-GO, Arctic Cat, Textron Systems, and TRU Simulation + Training.
The Bell 525 Relentless Helicopter
2020 JAN / FEB
WHERE TIME MOVES SLOWLY
A brief introduction to the charming capital city of Quebec
he Saint Lawrence River narrows just before it is joined by the much smaller Saint-Charles River. This stretch of the river, and the area around it, was known to the indigenous Algonquian people as Kébec, meaning “where the river narrows.” Because of its proximity to the mouth of the Saint Lawrence River, and because of its defensible hilly terrain, the French explorer Samuel de Champlain chose this spot, in 1608, as the administrative seat of the French colonial outpost of New France. He also chose the indigenous name for the region and christened it Quebec. What was once Kébec, is today Quebec City or Ville de Québec, the second-largest city in the Canadian province of Quebec, and its capital. While Montreal, as the largest metropolitan area of Quebec, gets most of the limelight, Quebec City moves at a much slower, charming pace. It is one of the oldest cities in North America, and the ramparts surrounding it are the only fortified city walls still standing in the Americas, north of Mexico. Its unique stone and brick structures, espousing European architectural styles, gives it a charm that is
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unique in North America. Most of these architectural gems are to be found within the “Historic District of Old Québec” - declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1985. The city’s skyline is dominated by the massive Château Frontenac hotel, perched on top of Cap-Diamant (Cape Diamond). The cape, formed by the confluence of the St. Lawrence River and the Saint-Charles River, was given its name by French explorer Jacques Cartier because of the glittering stones he had found there, which he believed contained diamonds. It was later concluded that the glittering was caused by quartz. This historical faux pas is believed to have given birth to the French proverb - Faux comme un diamant du Canada - as fake as a Canadian diamond. The city is a holiday destination for those who appreciate traditional and historical architecture. The buildings within Old Québec and its vicinity tell tales of the founding of not just the city but of the province itself. The city is for those who love to stroll along narrow winding streets or along riverfront boulevards or through beautifully curated parks.
THINGS TO DO ICE FISHING
Originally practised by the Amerindians, ice fishing is enjoyed just about everywhere in QuĂŠbec once the ice is thick enough on the rivers and lakes. To protect themselves from the wind and weather, fishing enthusiasts set up little huts on the ice and can be surprisingly comfortable. For beginners and experts alike, it is a unique experience and an opportunity to enjoy a fun-filled day on the ice with family and friends.
Another winter activity ideal for those who enjoy riding endless miles on snow. QuĂŠbec province is a top destination for snowmobiling, a sport it invented. The surroundings of Quebec City often have a thick snow cover, over which is a network of 33,000 km of trails through uninhabited wilderness. The groomed and sign-posted trails crisscrossing the province offer a full range of services and accommodations for every taste. Trips can be planned by consulting the various snowmobiling information sources for such things as trail permits, snow conditions, trail maps or accommodations.
2020 JAN / FEB
THINGS TO DO ST. LAWRENCE RIVER FERRY
At just under a kilometre, the Québec-Lévis crossing connects the north and south shores of the St. Lawrence River. Hundreds of people take the ferry between Québec City and Lévis every day. But it’s not just a means of transportation from one point to another. It is a fun, affordable, and accessible activity that offers some of the best views of the city. By day, one can view the architectural landscape crowned by the Château Frontenac, and by night, the dazzling city lights glitter on the river.
TOUR OF QUEBEC CITY
Tour of the fortified Old Quebec City is a must. Within its walls is contained over 400 years of history and the birthplace of French North America. There is the Terrasse Dufferin, a terrace that wraps around the Château Frontenac, and overlooks the St. Lawrence River. Place-Royale, the square on which Québec City was founded and its adjacent fairytale-like neighbourhood of Petit-Champlain. The charming streets that surround the Old Port are a treasure trove of antique stores, art galleries, and restaurants. The Plains of Abraham is a historic park and a gathering place for artists and a venue for some of the city’s biggest festivals and shows.
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WHERE TO STAY HOTEL DE GLACE (ICE HOTEL)
Hotel de Glace is the only ice hotel in North America and is open between January and late March. Made entirely of snow and ice, this architectural marvel features a beautiful hall, a majestic ice chandelier, chapel, ice slide, exhibitions and an Ice Bar serving cocktails in glasses made of ice. It has an outdoor spa and sauna. It is an ideal venue for a special romantic getaway or a get-together for family or friends. It has 42 themed rooms or suites. The one-bed Premium Deluxe Suite with a fireplace and private hot tub and sauna is the largest and most luxurious suite at the hotel. The Theme suite, with two beds, is a true work of art featuring a unique design and decor, as well as ice and snow sculptures accentuated by the soft light. The hotel also offers theme suites with one bed. Hôtel de Glace Room, with three beds, is designed to recreate the intimacy of an igloo. The hotel also organises numerous, all-inclusive wedding, vow renewal and wedding proposal packages for couples and their entourage.
FAIRMONT LE CHÂTEAU FRONTENAC
For more than a century, this hotel has hosted celebrities and political figures visiting the city. One of the most photographed icons of the city, it was designed by architect Bruce Price, as one of a series of “château” style hotels built for the Canadian Pacific Railway company. The hotel has undergone a multimillion-dollar renovation to transform it into one of the world’s leading hotels. The restoration blends the charm of its rich heritage with modern luxury. Located within the walls of Old Quebec, its 610 guestrooms and suites offer stunning views of the St. Lawrence River and the architecture of the old city. The hotel has six suites with over 1,000 square foot of floor space, each unique with names that commemorate historical events at the hotel. The Charles de Gaulle Suite, for example, celebrates the French President’s attendance at a 1967 banquet held in his honour at the Chateau. The Elizabeth II Suite commemorates the Queen’s visit to the hotel in 1959. The hotel has four dining venues with river views in an open, elegant, year-round environment. Champlain Restaurant, the hotel’s signature venue, takes guests through a culinary discovery of new Québec.
2020 JAN / FEB
UFO, the world’s first “smart mask treatment” device, developed by FOREO
A REVOLUTIONARY FACIAL Introducing UFO, a revolutionary facial treatment device from Foreo
he UFO - Ur Future Obsession - is the world’s first “smart mask treatment” device that combines four advanced dermal technologies with exclusive Korean mask formulas. It is designed to not only overcome the shortcomings of the sheet mask but is designed to do much more in just 90-seconds. The UFO was developed by Foreo – FOR EveryOne – a sixyear-old Swedish beauty and wellness company that specialises in using innovative technology to offer new and more effective ways to take care of one’s self. After launching Luna - a silicone cleansing brush - and the Issa – an electronic toothbrush with sonic pulse technology - the company launched the UFO at the Consumer Electronics Show (CES Las Vegas) in 2018. The UFO is an app-controlled device that applies the required treatment to the user’s skin. It has a lightweight body with a soft medical-grade silicone exterior along its side for an ergonomic grip. It comes with a choice of three colours: fuschia, mint or pearl pink. On the top of the device is a gold-toned disk with tiny raised studs in a sunflower-like swirling pattern. A detachable transparent plastic ring fits snugly along its periphery and is used as a clip to hold the “mask” firmly in place. The disposable Activated Mask - made of plush, ultra-fine microfiber cloth – is circular and fits perfectly on the UFO’s golden surface while gliding across the skin to disburse its ingredients. The masks, sold separately in packs of six, are infused with carefully curated ingredients that are specific to the seven types of treatment. Foreo enlisted the help of top Korean skincare experts to develop and formulate the seven treatments. Korea is the birthplace of the sheet mask, the home of K-Beauty and, not surprisingly, is considered one of the best in skincare product development.
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The seven treatments are: “Shimmer Freak” to fight the signs of fatigue and dark circles; “Glow Addict,” infused with pearl extract to transform a dull skin into a radiant one; “Youth Junkie” is a DIY collagen facial for a firm, lifted appearance; “Make My Day” is a morning anti-pollution and hydrating facial; “H2Overdose” is an ultra-hydrating treatment for dry skin; “Matte Maniac” is for Oily Skin; “Call It a Night” is a night treatment. The UFO treatment begins by scanning the mask’s barcode using the UFO app, which then sends the appropriate instructions to the UFO. The mask is then placed on top of the UFO and secured. The formula in the mask is then gently massaged into the skin of the face and neck with a circular clockwise motion for 90-seconds. Once the treatment is over, the mask is removed and disposed of, and then the UFO is washed using tap water. Every treatment, in addition to applying the mask formula into the skin, is accompanied by a combination of the UFO’s four Hyper-Infusion Technologies. The most important is the patented T-Sonic pulsation which boosts absorption of the mask’s ingredients deep into the skin. Secondly, it has UV-free LED light phototherapy in three colours: red for anti-ageing, green for brightening and blue for anti-acne. Thermotherapy uses gentle heat to infuse active mask ingredients into the skin, making them more effective in less time. And finally, it has as an exclusively developed cryotherapy whose cooling effect helps to diminish the appearance of pores and reduces puffiness, while also helping to seal the active ingredients into the skin. The UFO is a wireless device and comes with a USB Type-A charger. Foreo estimates that the UFO can run for two weeks on a single charge if being used for two facials a day.
Photo: Courtesy of Foreo 2020 JAN / FEB
Dr. ChefJacqueline Gary Rhodes Hill, Director of Strategic Innovation and Science, La Prairie 96 JAN / FEB 2020
A CULINARY PIONEER
Remembering Chef Gary Rhodes, the man behind the celebrity
hef Gary Rhodes passed away unexpectedly on the 26th of November 2019, as a result of a subdural haematoma, a type of bleeding that occurs within the layers of the meninges surrounding the brain. In a formal statement, the Rhodes family said: “In order to end painful speculation surrounding the sudden passing of our beloved Gary Rhodes, the Rhodes family can confirm that after a successful day shooting with Rock Oyster Media for ITV here in Dubai, Gary returned home in a very happy mood for a peaceful evening with his wife Jennie. After dinner, Gary unfortunately collapsed in their residence and was rushed to hospital but unfortunately passed away due to subdural haematoma.” Dubai Police confirmed that Rhodes “died of natural causes.” The man who helmed six restaurants that had earned a Michelin star each was a ‘working-class bloke’ to the end.
Seemingly pompous yet approachable, he was witty, proud, blunt and very relatable. His culinary skills elevated traditional English dishes to the level of haute cuisine. His personality and his trademark pointy hairdo endeared him to television audiences long before the days of 24-hours channels dedicated to food. He was a pioneer in the truest sense; not one to shy away from a challenge. The innumerable condolences and tributes that came flooding forth following the news of his death is a measure of the impact the man has had on others. Gordon Ramsay tweeted: “We lost a fantastic chef today in Gary Rhodes. He was a chef who put British Cuisine on the map. Sending all the love and prayers to your wife and kids. You’ll be missed.” Jamie Oliver wrote on Instagram: “Gary was a fantastic chef and incredible ambassador for British cooking, he was a massive
2020 JAN / FEB
inspiration to me as a young chef. He re-imagined modern British cuisine with elegance and fun. Rest in peace, Chef.” Chef Vineet Bhatia wrote: “Extremely sad to know of Gary Rhodes sudden passing away. Had known this gem of a man for years, and in fact, filmed with him just 4 days ago for his new TV series. RIP my friend and may God give strength to Jennie and your boys [Samuel and George] in these tough times.” Chef Rhodes’ journey to the top of the culinary mountain began as a circumstance of his humble beginnings. Born in South London in 1960, the family moved to Kent, where Rhodes spent much of his childhood and did his schooling. While his mother was at work, Rhodes volunteered to cook for the family and began to experiment in the kitchen. The exact moment when Rhodes realised that his passion for cooking might one day turn into a career was, according to his biography, on a Sunday when he was thirteen years old. To complement his Sunday roast, he had conjured up a steamed lemon sponge pudding using Marguerite Patten’s recipe. The delight on the faces of his loved ones was all it took to convince him. He enrolled at Thanet technical college, a catering school, for a three-year course. It was here that he met his future wife, Jennie. To make ends meet, he started working weekends in restaurant
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kitchens for as little as £7 a week while still at school. He realised early on that he needed to travel to expand his repertoire and to develop as a chef fully. Not surprisingly, his first significant appointment was as a Commis Chef at the Amsterdam Hilton Hotel, where he began to experiment and challenge existing preconceptions. After working at several venues across Europe, he returned to the city of his birth to work as the Sous Chef at the Reform Club, the prestigious gentlemen’s club at Pall Mall. This was followed by Capital Hotel in Knightsbridge, a Michelin-starred venue under the stewardship of Brian Turner. Then, at the age of 26, he was appointed Head Chef at the historic and Michelin starred Castle Hotel, Taunton in Somerset. While there, in the process of retaining the hotel’s Michelin star status, he earned his first. In 1990, Rhodes returned to London as the Head Chef of the Greenhouse Restaurant in Mayfair. Rhodes revived the celebrated restaurant by reinterpreting British classics such as faggots, fish cakes, braised oxtails and bread-butter pudding for fine-dining. His innovations at the restaurant earned him a second Michelin star in 1996. The following year, Rhodes partnered with the French hospitality multinational Sodexo to open two restaurants in London. The first was City Rhodes, followed in quick succession
All photos courtesy of Rhodes Twenty10
by Rhodes in the Square. The partnership led to the opening of Rhodes and Co. Brasseries in Manchester, Edinburgh and Crawley. In 2003, the year after his first two restaurants closed their doors, he unveiled Rhodes Twenty Four at Tower 42, one of London’s tallest buildings. It won a Michelin star in 2005 and retained it until it closed in 2014. In 2005, Gary also opened the first Rhodes W1 Brasserie in the then newly refurbished Cumberland Hotel. The first overseas restaurant by Rhodes opened in 2006, the Rhodes Calabash at the Calabash Boutique Hotel in Grenada. By 2007, Rhodes had brought his culinary skills to Dubai with the launch of Rhodes Mezzanine at The Grosvenor House, which was later converted to the current Rhodes W1. The second Rhodes venue to open in Dubai was the Rhodes Twenty10 at Le Royal Meridien in 2010. Both have won multiple awards. In 2011, Rhodes relocated to Dubai with his family. Some considered this as a risky move given that Dubai was not on the Michelin Star map back then. However, Rhodes was always adamant that he loved a challenge, which in this case was raising the standard of dining in the city. He seems to have been proven right.
Rhodes was as passionate about cooking as he was about sharing some of his skills and recipes with the masses; which in a way led to him becoming a celebrity. He has published no less than 23 books. Candace Brown, the Great British Bake-Off winner, tweeted: “His banana and syrup loaf was the first thing I baked all on my own. The pages are stuck together with syrup.” He hosted hit television shows such as MasterChef USA, New British Classics and of course the ‘Rhodes Around...’ titles, among others. His on-screen persona enlightened, and sometimes infuriated his audiences, but was always forthright. Rhodes even curated the meals prepared at five schools across the UAE and had expressed a desire to start courses to teach children about the basics of cooking and a healthy diet. British actor Kadiff Kirwan, who has appeared in Fleabag, Black Mirror and The Stranger, recalled in his remembrance tweet an incident that gave one of the best insights into the man that was Gary Rhodes. Kirwan wrote: “So sad to hear about the death of Gary Rhodes. In 2008, on my gap year, I worked at his restaurant [Rhodes W1] in Marble Arch to save for drama school. Gary was always so lovely. When I left to go to drama school, he gave me one of his signed cookbooks, I opened it and there was £200 inside.” 2020 JAN / FEB
Tamara Malhis, Chef Consultant and Founder of Vous Photo: Courtesy of Vous 100 JAN / FEB 2020
DINING TRENDS The Top 10 UAE Menu Trends for 2020, according to chef consultant, Tamara Malhis
amara Malhis, chef consultant and the founder of the events and digital marketing company Vous, has unveiled her Top 10 UAE Menu Trends for 2020. Sustainability is the macro trend globally today, and fine dining is no exception. Other prominent trends, in a way related to sustainability, is the shift away from meat-dominated menus, simplification and casualisation. Tamara has a bachelor’s degree in Business Management from The American University in Dubai, a graduate degree in Luxury Brand Management From ESMOD, as well as a Culinary Management degree from George Brown College in Toronto. After her studies, Tamara worked as a chef at Dubai’s Bulgari Hotel. She has lived in Dubai, Amman, Toronto, and Jeddah. Here are the top trends as ranked by Tamara. Zero-waste cooking – sustainability had a considerable impact on the restaurant industry in 2019, and its influence is only set to grow. Restaurants will start to embrace the zerowaste approach, meaning reducing the amount of ingredients they buy, as well as utilising items that would otherwise be discarded in creative ways for as little waste as possible. More prominence for plant-based foods – this year has been called “The Year of the Vegan” due to the massive rise in people turning to veganism, vegetarianism, and even flexitarianism. Restaurants are responding to demand, and instead of scouring the menu for meat and dairy-free options, plant-based sections are going to be highlighted as a major USP. Less is more – gone are the days of the multi-page menu; it’s all about sticking to your specialities and keeping it concise. Smaller menus usually mean better quality because the chefs are more focused on ingredient choice and perfecting a selection of dishes, while customers enjoy a simpler ordering process. Diners are also more likely to remember why they enjoy a particular venue and stay loyal. Super casualisation – formal dining is being replaced by casual-style eateries around the world, and even in a market like the UAE where fine dining will always have a place, the emphasis will be on interacting, sharing, and socialising. This also taps into the need for restaurateurs to make dining out more affordable across the board as people are looking for better value and more memorable experiences. Health-focused desserts – healthy treats and sugar
substitutes are nothing new, and the category is still evolving. We’ll see syrups made from things like dates, pomegranates, coconut and even sweet potato. And, when it comes to flour, look out for banana flour and coconut flour, resulting in more natural tasting desserts. Mood foods – the phrase ‘we are what we eat’ has come a long way; millennials want food that makes them feel good and supports their health. Fresh, natural, and organic are a must and restaurants will take it even further with ingredients chosen for their specific properties, e.g. salmon and spinach for a serotonin high, lentils to boost iron levels, and beetroot to promote blood flow and circulation. Elevated children’s menus – eating out with children can be a tricky one, and the challenge of finding something healthy that they want to eat is even harder with unimaginative kids’ menus. Chefs are recognising that children’s tastes have evolved, especially in such a culturally diverse community such as the UAE. Plus, as parents make more conscious choices, they want better taste and quality for their little ones too. Kids menus will be broader, healthier, more creative, and combine different cuisines to elevate the old classics. Meat and plant blends – even the die-hard meat eaters among us are getting influenced by climate change messages that encourage less meat consumption. Plus, there’s no doubt that vegetables contain less fat and calories. With that in mind, we’ll see dishes that are meat-based but combined with veg for lighter, nutrient-rich, eco-friendly options. Kale and chicken sausages anyone? Flavoured spreads – traditional dairy butter is getting a makeover and being fused with flavours, such as truffle, herbs, and lemon, to give an extra bite to your bread. At the same time, non-dairy nut and seed butter ranges are expanding as well. Watermelon, chickpea, and macadamia butter are all on next year’s hotlist. Non-alcoholic drinks choice – it’s no longer upto bartenders to use their imagination and create appetising mocktails, there are a lot more choices available from drinks brands too. Premium, zero-proof mixed beverages and innovations such as alcohol-free gin are a big hit. What’s more, rather than relying on sugar for taste, many of them are infused with plants and herbs for a waist-friendly treat. 2020 JAN / FEB
The Rome Cavalieri, a Waldorf Astoria hotel
A LAVISH ROME RETREAT The Rome Cavalieri, a Waldorf Astoria hotel, is synonymous with glamorous Italian luxury
he magnificent Rome Cavalieri opened its doors in 1963 and became the first European property of the brand Waldorf Astoria Hotels & Resorts. Royalty, Italy’s moneyed elite and everyone from Fred Astaire to George Clooney and Brad Pitt have flocked here to escape the chaos of the city, be pampered and enjoy the best view in Rome. It is the epitome of grandeur with a prestigious private museumworthy art collection, the largest in the world housed in a hotel. Regularly mentioned amongst the world’s most beautiful hotels, the Rome Cavalieri offers panoramic views of the eternal city. Spanning over 15 acres of beautiful Mediterranean gardens, the hotel is located just three kilometres from the Vatican City and five kilometres from the picturesque city centre. Offering some of the world’s most exquisite and iconic architecture, the property prides itself on its first-class service, cutting-edge facilities, incredible spa and Michelin Star Chef Heinz Becks’ La Pergola. It boasts an art gallery curated by some of the world’s most revered art critics. The hotel’s large art collection includes antique furniture, magnificent paintings, precious tapestries, and statues and artefacts that are exhibited throughout its suites and public spaces, such as the lounge bar. Recognized by the World Travel Awards as both Italy and Europe’s Leading Luxury City Resort, the Rome Cavalieri is a property that ticks all the boxes and goes above and beyond to
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offer its guest the most exclusive experiences possible. Guests can enjoy a thrilling supercar experience, explore Rome with the City Navigator tour guide or even challenge themselves to some Gladiator training. The hotel offers 370 guestrooms and suites with private balconies or terraces. The elegant rooms include a flatscreen TV with satellite and pay-per-view channels, a marble bathroom, soundproofed double doors, extensive pillow and soap menus, a vast array of Salvatore Ferragamo bath products including everything from facial mist to eye cream and a balcony overlooking either the gardens or Rome’s historical centre. Some offer access to the Imperial Club Lounge located on the 7th floor. Privacy and bespoke experiences are becoming critical aspects of the UHNWI lifestyle and properties around the world are creating new products to satisfy this demanding clientele; The Penthouse is the Rome Cavalieri’s answer to these needs. Located on the hotel’s executive floor, this 250 square-meter suite is redefining the concept of luxury in the hospital industry. Boasting the ultimate amenities as well as a level of luxury rarely seen in European hotels, it also features its own private 200 square-meter panoramic roof gardens. The décor of the suite is an exclusive blend of antique and modern in the grand tradition of Italian refinement. Guests have the opportunity to enjoy, in the comfort of their suite,
The Penthouse Suite Living room
The Vista Suite 2020 JAN / FEB
La Pergola Restaurant 104 JAN / FEB 2020
Day time view over Rome from the hotel
essential works of art, such as a series of Andy Warhol paintings; armchairs and sofas, acquired by auction at Sotheby’s in Monte Carlo, that once adorned Karl Lagerfeld’s Paris home. The Penthouse’s bathrooms feature precious marble panels embellished with a malachite inlay. The taps are made of Swarovski Bohemian crystal, and the power shower boasts a tropical mist revitalizing sessions option that can be complemented with chromo-therapy and aromatherapy. Regarding technology, the hotel has brought together the latest products to ensure that the entertainment system of the suite surpasses the standards of hospitality. We are talking LED TV 65” full HD with media hub in the living room, LED TV 55” full HD with media hub in the bedroom and LED TV full HD in the bathroom. By booking The Penthouse guests enjoy the unique privilege of access to the roof garden via the rare wood-paneled staircase in the drawing room. “Stress-relief was a major consideration for the designers of The Penthouse. Pinpoints of optic fiber lights set in the ceiling twinkle over the whirlpool to offer an exclusive view of the dome of St. Peter’s and the Eternal City. And for those who adopt a more energetic approach to well-being, space has been allocated for the guest’s own private gym fitted with a personalized choice of equipment,” explains the property in a statement. A short step from the private roof garden brings guests directly to their priority-reserved table in the 3-star Michelin restaurant “La Pergola.” The restaurant is unanimously recognized as the ‘Best Restaurant in Rome’ and one of the top four in Italy. Under the direction of celebrated chef Heinz Beck, Rome Cavalieri is the only hotel in Italy to boast a Michelin-rated three-star restaurant. The stylish roof terrace offers panoramic views across the city. L’Uliveto restaurant features regional Italian cuisine with
a spectacular terrace overlooking the landscaped outdoor pool and park. It serves a full menu of Mediterranean and international dishes. In summer, tables are laid outside on the terrace for an alfresco dining experience under the Roman sky, with live entertainment every evening. The Tiepolo Lounge is the perfect rendezvous point for morning coffee, light lunches, snacks and drinks, with live entertainment every evening. The Pool Bar is located on the pool terrace and is open throughout the summer season, with a selection of refreshments and drinks. Guests can also enjoy a healthy drink or light meal at the Grand Spa Café, or feast on a delicious grill at the Chalet Grill whilst watching live sporting events on large plasma TVs. The hotel also offers 2 red-clay tennis courts and a 732 m fitness trail with Technogym facilities. Its Grand Spa includes a Turkish bath, saunas, a stylish room with an indoor swimming pool and a fireplace. Rome Cavalieri has been awarded the Green Key certification, making it the first hotel in Rome to receive the internationally recognised environmental label. The Green Key certification is the leading standard for excellence in the field of environmental responsibility and sustainable operation within the tourism industry, recognised by The World Tourism Organization (UNWTO) and operated internationally under the management of the Foundation for Environmental Education (FEE). Rome Cavalieri was commended for its ongoing commitment to sustainable management, from its high energy efficiency, excellent waste management, constant monitoring of CO2 emissions and attention to waste, to its pledge to working with numerous local associations supporting disadvantaged communities. With its exceptional space, unrivalled facilities and outstanding personal service, the Rome Cavalieri creates exceptional experiences beyond compare. 2020 JAN / FEB
Tumi’s collaboration with Chris Pratt has a personal touch to it
Tumi x Chris Pratt 106 JAN / FEB 2020
umi, the leading international brand of travel, business and lifestyle accessories, unveiled the Tumi x Chris Pratt collection last November. The collection was designed with the Asia Pacific and the Middle East regions in particular by Hollywood actor Chris Pratt in collaboration with Tumi’s Creative Director, Victor Sanz. It features a 9-piece, ultra-exclusive capsule inspired by Chris’ personal packing style. In includes: a brand new 2-in-1 backpack duffel, travel cases in different sizes, a large laptop case (up to 15”), packing cubes in three different sizes, and a range of other accessories. While Chris, a long-term Tumi user was on set, filming for Tumi’s ‘APAC & ME Regional Spring 2019’ campaign last year, Chris and Victor started brainstorming their dream bag. By the time the shoot wrapped up, we are told, a collaboration was in the cards. The aesthetic of the collection is defined by striking Orange accents that adorn each piece. The signature shade of Orange was personally chosen by Chris Pratt and will remain Chris’s exclusive colour throughout all his collaboration pieces. The all-new exclusive to the collection, the 2-in-1 Backpack Duffel, is a convertible style that is easily worn as a backpack or carried as a duffel with carry-straps that tuck away when not in use. Made with recycled nylon and recycled PET materials, the backpack is thoughtfully designed with special touches including a USB port for charging devices. This is the first time ever that Tumi has implemented a USB port in its bag. Other design features include two special waterproof-lined pockets with air vents for shoes, wet clothing or a water bottle. The backpack duffel is suited for the plane, the daily commute or the gym. It comes in two versions: an exclusive limited and numbered large, and a more compact small. The Short Trip Front Lid Expandable Packing Case and International Front Lid Expandable Carry On are inspired by the Alpha Bravo collection. Created with recycled materials, both cases have dual access to the main compartment through a split case opening and a front lid opening. Inside, flaps pop up to compartmentalize the case and keep belongings organized. These can be used to pack shoes or to keep items separate. There is also a zipper expansion feature on both cases which provides five centimetres of additional space for extra purchases. It has a USB port for charging devices. “After using Tumi for the past ten years, it was really exciting for me to get to design my own line and create my own Tumi with all the personal touches I love,” said Chris Pratt about his collection.
N EW RE S I DE NCY PR O GR AMME S NOW AVA IL A BLE
2020 JAN / FEB
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TOURBILLON G-SENSOR RM 36-01 SEBASTIEN LOEB
108 NOV / DEC 2019